Title: Caribbean Compass
Full Citation
Permanent Link: http://ufdc.ufl.edu/UF00095627/00035
 Material Information
Title: Caribbean Compass the Caribbean's monthly look at sea & shore
Physical Description: v. : ill. ; 35 cm.
Language: English
Publisher: Compass Pub.
Place of Publication: Bequia St. Vincent and the Grenadines
Bequia St. Vincent and the Grenadines
Publication Date: January 2010
Copyright Date: 2010
Frequency: monthly
Subject: Boats and boating -- Periodicals -- Caribbean Area   ( lcsh )
Yachting -- Periodicals -- Caribbean Area   ( lcsh )
Genre: periodical   ( marcgt )
Spatial Coverage: Saint Vincent and the Grenadines
 Record Information
Bibliographic ID: UF00095627
Volume ID: VID00035
Source Institution: University of Florida
Holding Location: University of Florida
Rights Management: All rights reserved by the source institution and holding location.
Resource Identifier: oclc - 54085008
issn - 1605-1998

Full Text

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The innovative design offers both
low power and water consumption
with an integral rinse and waste
pump system.

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r'IoTOrl.I I UD flfl.f fi I*illI 1n 1/.n nm

The easySPLIT Budget Marine inlroouces AB's commitment -
OCB active the very latest in modern to innovation
VHF splitter allows anchor design Rocna remains on ,
a single masthead developed the forefront V
VHF antenna to be shared "new in the
automatically between a Class B generation" development ana r
AIS transponder and a 25 watt marine design of Light
VHF radio transceiver, anchor. Aluminum Hull RIBs.
Its features include instant setting
As an added bonus it also provides and superior holding power on Using the same high quality and
an output to feed an FM stereo most seabeds, addressing the Hypalon tubes, they offer a
radio. issues which plague more less-expensive version of the
traditional types. already popular Lammina series.
VHF Radio and VHF Antenna: SO-239 Rocna is an excellent choice for
AIS Transponder: BNC female any vessel from a small runabout
FM Radio: Motorola car radio connector to a small ship.



I^ Th Car 1 'Tiibbean 's Lead ing Ch n lryT www^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ TAT b udgt ma l rT i nea~T^comi^^

For those who demand the very best,

Doyle Caribbean's 5/50


DOYLE 5 years -
50,000 miles

V-Not Farro ARANT E D*
14,000 miles on our Hydra Net sails
40,000 miles on our canvas *Dacron and Hydra Net only
Still looking good, still working hard
,L That's Poyle value!

BRi nttrgin Islands Barbados
Doyle Sailmakers Doyle Sailmakers
Road Reef Marina 6 Crossroads I
Tortola St. Philip
Tel: (284) 494 2569 Fax: (284) 494 2034 Tel: (246) 423 4600 Fax: (246) 423 4499
E-mail: bob@doylecaribbean.com E-mail: andy@doylecaribbean.com -

Antigua & Barbuda
Star Marine
Jolly Harbour

Withfield Sails and Model Boats
Port Elizabeth

Turbulence Ltd.
Spice Island Boatyard
St. Croix, USVI
Wilsons' Cruzan Canvas

Kapiteinsweg #4
Netherland Antilles

Regency Marine
Pedro Miguel Boat Club

St. Lucia
The Sail Loft, St. Lucia
Rodney Bay

Dominica Marine Center

Puerto Rico
Atlantic Sails and Canvas

St. Vincent
Barefoot Yacht Charters
Blue Lagoon

Trinidad & Tobago
Soca Sails, Ltd.


The Caribbean's Monthly Look at Sea & Shore

Security Scene 'Our Favorite Island'
Updates and tips ............. 12 Marie Galante chooses Grenada.. 34

^^^12^^^^ll^^^rH^-.* S^

River Ramble
Up Guyana's Essequibo........ 22

It's All Happening!
Caribbean Events Calendar 2010..27

ailing a Legend
Plumbelly of Bequia............... 33

iney Love Lac biay
Sea turtles dine in Bonaire... 36


Business Briefs.................... 8
Regatta News..................... 12
Destinations........................ 21
Sailors' Hikes .....................26
Meridian Passage.............. 32
Cruiser Profile..................... 32
Fun Pages.......................38, 39
Cruising Kids' Corner............ 40
Dolly's Deep Secrets............ 40

Tel: (784) 457 3409, Fax (784) 457 3410

Editor .......................................... Sally Erdle
Assistant Editor ...................Elaine Ollivierre
Advertising & Distribution ........Tom Hopman
Art, Design & Production......Wilfred Dederer
Accounting .................................Debra Davis
Compass Agents by Island:

A T.. i

The Caribbean Sky............... 41
Book Reviews..................... 42
Cooking with Cruisers....44 46
Readers' Forum.................. 48
What's on My Mind............... 49
Monthly Calendar ............. 50
Caribbean Marketplace......51
Classified Ads.................... 54
Advertisers' Index.............. 54

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Cover photo: Mini Maxi, winner of ARC 2009 Best Family Performance Photo: Tim Wright/www.photoaction.com

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Click Google Map link below to find the Caribbean Compass near you!
http://aps .google. com/maps/ms?t=h&hl=en&ie=UTF8&msa-&msid=112776612439699037380.000470658db371bf3282d&11=14.54105 65. 830078&spn=10 196461,14.0625&z=6&sourcembed


service companies, restaurants and dive centres in the community. Funding for the
night security is provided by membership fees, donations, fees from yacht moorings
in Prince Rupert Bay, fund-raising beach barbecues and other fun activities. All ser-
vices are provided by members on a voluntary basis and all proceeds are dedicat-
ed to ensuring your security and to helping develop the yachting sector in
... i,,

St. Croix Warning and Update
Marilyn Cook reports: There has been a major problem with yachts entering
Christiansted Harbor, St. Croix. On average, one cruising yacht a month has been
driving up onto Round Reef. Several have been lost, and all suffered damage. Just
since Thanksgiving 2009, two sailboats have gone hard aground. Please study the
chart before entering the harbor! (Editor's note: Nancy and Simon Scott's Cruising
Guide to the Virgin Islands 2009-2011 has a large aerial photo on page 262 that clear-
ly shows the location of Round Reef Space does not permit its reproduction here.)
Round Reef is situated right in the middle of what one would think is the channel. To
be on the safe side, I recommend entering the harbor on the left, following the green
buoys along the peninsula straight in. There is a red-over-green buoy that marks the
northeast corner of Round Reef. It is a dual channel marker. Apparently, some sailors
assume you can go either side of it. DON'T! It is marking the straight-in channel (left
channel) and also the WAPA channel that actually is a 90-degree right turn down
along the reef going west. I have been using the channel for many years and I still
get the willies coming in. It can be very confusing, as there are buoys everywhere.
Also, St. Croix's Department of Planning and Natural Resources (DPNR) has installed
20 moorings in Gallows Bay for transient yachts. They cost US$2.00 per foot per
month and are well made. You can call DPNR at (340) 244-9066.
Security Patrols in Prince Rupert Bay, Dominica
Helen Clarke reports: Portsmouth Association of Yacht Services and Security (PAYS)
would like to remind all yachts visiting Dominica to moor or anchor in the north end
of Prince Rupert Bay (between Blue Bay Restaurant and the Purple Turtle) where
security patrols are conducted nightly. Although we recognize that some visitors
prefer the seclusion of the south end, current economic conditions do not permit
our group to patrol the whole bay and although Dominica is one of the safest coun-
tries in the Caribbean, we cannot recommend that you anchor outside the
patrolled area.
Please note that we tried to patrol the south end on a regular basis but we could
not afford the additional fuel given the current revenue stream. We will monitor the
situation through the season but PAYS President, Jeff Frank, is actively visiting all
boats at the end of the day and asking them to move north.
PAYS is a registered non-profit association, established in 2007, and includes 17
members from the yacht tourism sector in Portsmouth, including tour guides, yacht

The PAYS patrol boat, a boost to yacht security in Portsmouth, Dominica

Dominica. Please help support our program by using PAYS members for your yacht
services when coming to Dominica and joining in our fun events.
For more information contact Jeff Frank at (767) 245-0125 or Helen Clarke
at (767) 275-3020.
St. Maarten Bridge Openings
As is customary every "high" season, the bridge into Simpson Bay Lagoon, St.
Maarten, opens six times during the day in order to handle the vessels that make
use of several marinas in the lagoon. The daily seasonal openings are: 9:00AM out-
bound, 9:30AM inbound, 11:00AM outbound, 11:30AM inbound, 4:30pM outbound and
5:30pM inbound. This schedule will run until May 2010.
Users of small craft are requested not to transit the bridge channel during bridge
opening hours. Boats docking at the BBW dock should not be maneuvering in the
channel during the bridge operational hours. Small sea craft must make use of the
port channel when passing under the bridge.
-Continued on next page




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-Continued from previous page
Jet ski owners and rentals are requested to inform users that they must put their
waterspouts off when passing under the bridge. This prevents corrosion of the iron
structure of the bridge.
Captains and owners of vessels, after docking their vessels in the lagoon, should
immediately come to the window of the Simpson Bay Lagoon Authority &
Immigration to clear in their vessel, crew and passengers and pay the necessary
bridge and harbor fees and dues. (See related story on page 9.)
6th Edition of Sailor's Guide to Martinique Now Available
Ti'Ponton is bilingual, French and English, and offers the most extensive directory for
sailors' needs in Martinique. It includes the names, addresses and telephone num-
bers of more than 600 nautical services, suppliers, provisioning companies, doctors,
local restaurants, sightseeing spots
and much more. Ti Ponton also
a f provides tidal information for major
S coastal cities in Martinique.
S TiPonton is a FREE publication and
can be picked up all around the
island all year round. For the latest
marine news log on to
For more information contact Carola
Pajari at cptiponton@wanadoo. fr
OCC Officer Appointed for Port
Antonio, Jamaica
.*, Errol Flynn Marina's General
.,-. Manager, Dale B. Westin, has been
appointed Honorary Port Officer by
the Ocean Cruising Club. The interna-
tional cruising organization, based in
England, designates the port officers
at key marinas worldwide in an effort
to ensure that OCC members are
afforded first-class assistance wherev-
er they may cruise. To qualify for
membership in the OCC, a prospec-
tive applicant must document they
have made an ocean passage of at least 1,000 miles point-to-point.
For more info on the OCC visit www.oceancruisingclub.org
LIAT Flies to the Grenadines
Canouan Island, home of the Grenadines base of The Moorings yacht charter
company, is now more accessible than ever. On November 20, regional airline LIAT
started operating two non-stop flights per week from San Juan, Puerto Rico. LIAT
flight 383 leaves San Juan on Fridays and Saturdays at 4:00PM and arrives on
Canouan at 6:20PM. LIAT flight 384 departs Canouan on Saturdays and Sundays at
10:50AM and arrives San Juan at 1:10PM. In March 2009, LIAT began service from
Barbados to Canouan operating four flights per week.

New Underwater Sculptures in Mexico
The first phase of a new underwater project in Cancun, Mexico is now complete. The
first three sculptures were submerged in November, entitled The Archive of Lost
Dreams, Man on Fire and The Gardener of Hope. Construction of the monumental sec-

> -
si ,

Underwater sculptures
provide new attractions
for snorkelers and div-
ers. As marine growth
colonies the artworks,
they evolve

ond phase is also underway. This includes more than 400 life-size figurative works, which
when complete will form part of the world's largest underwater art museum.
Works by the same artist, Jason de Caires Taylor, form Grenada's popular under-
water sculpture park at Moliniere Bay.
-Continued on next page

MARCH 12-14, 2010


E-i-,r cre c he ( ori.,ea.-, MOST EXCITING soiling events

J c'cVs ol lur, hlled elrerlOi nrra r a-nd Oie., even$
lounching Iro;:Ti Grenodao .orlddfom.:us Grond Anse Beach

Toi of Gnnada Food Festival
Youih Soiing Exhibition

Crozy Croft Bothiub Derby
~ Lve Music


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-Continued from previous page
EC Funds Shipping Study
Norman Faria reports: Can we in the islands ever get a viable Eastern Caribbean
sea transport system carrying both freight and passengers?
That question could well be answered on the completion of a 200,000-Euro
Organisation of Eastern Caribbean States (OECS) study funded by the European
Union. According to a release from the EU's Bridgetown, Barbados office, two main
outcomes of the study would be to get a good estimate of passenger demand and
to determine whether the shipping aspect would be sustainable over a long period.
Said the release in part: "If it (the service) materializes, it would enhance the export
capabilities of the islands' agricultural output and provide alternative passenger
routes which satisfy demand between OECS member countries, as well as explore
possible pricing structures that can satisfy adequate return to operators." It added,
against the backdrop of rising concerns about regional food security, "Whereas cer-
tain islands may have a surplus of agricultural products, lack of shipping freight lines
does not facilitate the movement of produce."
The study is expected to take three months.

New Dinghy Dock at Cumberland Bay, St. Vincent
One of the things cruisers say they want is more and better dinghy docks, and the

It's easier now
to step ashore
at scenic
Bay. The new
dinghy dock and
Park are at
lower leftin the
inset photo

development of tourism and recreational facilities at Cumberland Bay on the west
coast of St. Vincent was enhanced in November with the construction of a sturdy
new one. This will allow yachting visitors in the bay easier access to the shore, where
before dinghies had to be hauled up onto the beach. It will also facilitate visits by
sailors to the newly developed Cumberland Beach Recreational Park which, when
fully operational, will include a restaurant, laundry, showers and small shops.

The community-based project is part of a Tourism Development Project funded by
the European Union. Consultations with area residents had determined that improved
yacht services would be an asset to their livelihoods. The dock and park buildings
were built by a local construction team, and the facility will be run by the Cumberland
Valley Eco-Tourism Organization with the assistance of the National Parks Authority.
For more information contact Ernst De Freitas at (784) 495-0791.

Bequia Sunshine School's Good Fun for a Good Cause
Lisa Hunnicutt reports: The Bequia Sunshine School is a non-profit organization for
children with special needs. The school operates solely on funds donated and those
raised by various annual charity events, including one of Bequia's most fun and inter-
active fundraisers: The Sailors' & Landlubbers' Auction. The event will be held this
year at The Salty Dog, Port Elizabeth on Sunday February 14th. Not only do we solicit
donations of gently used items, gift certificates and items of interest before the
event, but we also encourage participation on the day of the event, bidding on
unique, funky and functional items. These items and others are sorted throughout the
year for use in the book sales, the auction and a jumble sale, while some remaining
clothes and shoes are further donated to charity organizations in St. Vincent.
Look for the following events in 2010: "Walking on Sunshine" fun walk, January 3rd;
Book Sales under the Almond Tree (two or three per year); Sailors' & Landlubbers'
Auction, February 14th; Jumble Sale (including school crafts, book sale and bake
sale), March 20th.
Please support these events, donate items and volunteer your time. Monetary
donations can be sent to The Sunshine School, Box 90BQ, Bequia, VC0400, St.
Vincent & the Grenadines, or, as with material items, can be dropped off at the
school during regular school hours. Look for our Sunshine School cans at various
local businesses to drop your spare change, too!
For more information contact Camille Jacobs at (784) 457-3794
or visit www.bequiasunshineschool.org

Contributions Welcomed for Carriacou Education Fund
Melodye Pompa reports: As cruising boats are starting to move north from their sum-
mer hideaways, please remember that the Carriacou Children's Education Fund will
gratefully accept any and all contributions: clean, used clothing for adults and chil-
dren; household goods; treasures of the bilge; handmade craft items; and, of course,
CASH. These items will be auctioned at our annual fundraising in July, directly pre-
ceding Carriacou Regatta Festival. Proceeds go to provide local needy children with
school uniforms, textbooks, lunches, and scholarships to TA Marryshow Community
College. Contributions can be left at the Carriacou Yacht Club in Tyrrel Bay.
For more information contact boatmillie@aol.com

In last month's issue we referred readers to an ad for Grenada's Bluewater Sailing
School, but the ad did not appear in that issue. Apparently the principals in the busi-
ness were busy welcoming a new baby congratulations!

Welcome Aboard!
In this issue of Compass we welcome new advertisers Beyond the Islands of Bequia,
page 43; Jolly Harbour Marina of Antigua, Market Place section; Marigot Beach
Club of St. Lucia, page 24; Ocean Experts of St. Maarten, page 16; and Woodstock
Boatbuilders of Antigua, page 9. Good to have you with us!


lYer mCaviwaf .

Your bottom Is our concern

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New Gourmet Food Outlet in Bequia
Gourmet Food Ltd SVG has opened a new location in Bequia, conveniently locat-
ed right next to the GYE chandlery and near the dinghy docks in the northeast cor-
ner of Admiralty Bay. This is their third outlet, following the opening of a supermarket
deli cafe at Kingstown, St. Vincent's cruise ship berth last April. The flagship store is in
Calliaqua, St. Vincent.
The Bequia wholesale food outlet is also a supermarket, offering high quality frozen
vegetables, meat, fish and shrimp as well as canned food. And as a cafe, it also
offers a nice place to drink a glass of wine, beer, fruit juice, tea or coffee and
choose from a light cafe menu including shrimp/vegetable spring rolls, Gourmet
Burgers, french fries, potato croquettes, calamari/onion rings, fresh-baked
baguettes, garlic baguettes, sandwiches, Danish pastries, croissants and more.
Gourmet Food Ltd SVG also sees the outlet as an enhanced source of communi-
cation for their wholesale business, giving Bequia 's hotel/restaurant/bar owners and
visiting yacht chefs greater access to professional sales representatives "face to
face". Fredrik Svanberg, owner of the Gourmet food group, was at the opening and
commented, "We are very happy to expand our business in St. Vincent and the
Grenadines. It compliments our Swedish operation because we sell the same prod-
ucts in Stockholm. Bequia will now benefit from a wide choice of high quality, chef-
ready food products."
For more information see ad on page 44.
Early-Bird Discounts at Dockwise Yacht Transport
Catalina Bujor reports: Dockwise Yacht Transport, the only float-on/float-off yacht
transport service, is featuring a very special voyage from St. Thomas, USVI to
Newport, Rhode Island and crossing the pond to Southampton, UK; Toulon, France;
and Marmaris, Turkey aboard motor vessel Super Servant 4, which sails from the end
of May through June, 2010. They are offering attractive prices and special discounts
to those that book early.

For more information contact Nadine Massaly in Martinique at +596 596 741 507 or
Nadine@dockwise-yt. com, or see ad on page 21.
Now: Cyber Help-Desk at Sea Services, Martinique
Ciarla Decker reports: Sea Services Shipchandler at Fort de France in Martinique
now has an e-mail address dedicated to receiving your nautical questions.
Contact us at seaservices972@orange.fr and we will be glad to help!
For more information see ad on page 17.
Underwater Engineering, Corrosion Protection Services
Reds Caribbean Limited was incorporated in 2006 in the Republic of Trinidad &
Tobago to provide underwater engineering services, which include commercial div-
ing and underwater inspections and repair; surveys and positioning; in-water marine
surveys and inspections; remote-operated vehicles; corrosion prevention; and rope
access services to the local and Caribbean-based oil, gas, petrochemicals and
marine engineering companies.
Since 2007, Reds Caribbean Limited has been certified as an In-Water Survey
Company by the USA-based American Bureau of Shipping (ABS), and holds
General Membership with the Association of Diving Contractors International Inc of
Houston, Texas.
In the field of corrosion protection services, in 2008 Reds Caribbean Limited
became the authorized agents and distributor for ZINGA UK, a division of MG Duff
International Ltd. MG Duff is the manufacturer and supplier of the ZINGA range of
anti-corrosive products within the territorial areas of Trinidad & Tobago.
For more information see ad on page 10.

Cabrits Caf6 & Dive Re-Opens in Dominica
Helen Clarke reports: We have re-opened Cabrits Cafe & Dive in Lagoon,
Portsmouth, Dominica as of November 14th, 2009. Situated in the north end of
Prince Rupert Bay right next to Big Papa's, Cabrits Cafe & Dive offers dive and snor-
kel reservations, snorkel equipment sales and rentals, and a European coffee shop

right at the water's edge. Even if you are not water babies, you are still more than
welcome to come visit and enjoy the fabulous views of Prince Rupert Bay. And this
year we are building a jetty especially for our yachting friends!
For more information contact cabritsdive@yahoo.com
-Continued on next page

I CA Ron Coopet (72 7-367-5004 www, coopetmatine Con) I

* "{.->*-'. *"

-Continued from previous page
St. Maarten Charter Yacht Show Faces Changes
Outgoing St. Maarten Marine Trades Association (SMMTA) President Jeff Boyd has
announced that as of this year, the Mediterranean Yacht Brokers Association (MYBA)
will no longer own the St. Maarten Charter Yacht Show. Ownership of the show now
comes back to St. Maarten. The MYBA was involved in the show for three years.
Boyd said he hoped there would be a show in 2010, but it would be up to the
SMMTA board of directors, and to some degree the membership, to decide the
value of the show to them and to the island. Discussion of a possible new format for
the show will reportedly begin next month. According to reports in the island's Daily
Herald newspaper, Boyd said, "I think what we might see is a full-blown show rather
than just a charter show... It may be more of a trade show, which we feel would be
better for our members because it brings trades and more activity to St. Maarten."
He added that he would also like to see the date changed for the St. Maarten
show; in recent years the dates have conflicted with the Antigua Charter Yacht
Show (see story on Antigua show page 10).
For more information on the SMMTA visit www.smmta.com

Dockside Management 'Preferred' by IGY Marinas in St. Maarten
Dockside Management, one of the leading ships' agents in the Caribbean, has
signed an agreement with Island Global Yachting (IGY) to be a "preferred provider"
at IGY's marinas in St. Maarten: The Yacht Club at Isle de Sol and Simpson Bay
Marina. Based on St. Maarten, Dockside Management provides vessels with services
including banking, clearance, visa assistance, courier/freight, provisioning, parts and
repair and VIP services.
For more information contact office@docksidemanagement.net

Simpson Bay Under New Authority, Fees to Drop
As reported in the St. Maarten Daily Herald on December 1st, the Simpson Bay
Lagoon Authority Corporation (SLAC) is now officially part of St. Maarten Harbour
Group of Companies. As a result, control of the water rights along the shore and in
the lagoon has been combined under one authority, which paves the way for uni-
form fees.
The island's marine industry and megayacht owners have been at loggerheads
with SLAC for more than a year now over various issues, especially the bridge fees
that went into effect on January 1st, 2008 without consultation with industry stake-
holders. Industry insiders, including the St. Maarten Marine Trades Association, had
warned that the fees and the way they were being applied were causing the island
to lose yachting business to other islands. There also was a notable shift of yachts
from the Dutch to the French side of St. Maarten, endangering investments made
on the Dutch side over the years.
It was announced in December that the controversial mandatory one-week "dou-
ble" fee for vessels entering and departing Simpson Bay Lagoon would be dropped
effective this month.

News from Antigua's Woodstock Boatbuilders
Andrew Robinson reports: Woodstock Boatbuilders were part of a group of
Antiguan businesses that participated in the Monaco Boat Show last September.
The show was a great success with a good attendance and very positive feedback.
The Antigua & Barbuda stand also received a large number of visitors. Woodstock
would like to thank the Ministry of Tourism, National Parks Authority, Charter Yacht
Meeting and those businesses that supported the stand.
Marine Engineering is our newest department, but one that is growing rapidly.
Recently we have become agents for Fischer Panda and Westerbeke, suppliers of
world-class marine generators and engines. Woodstock's head engineer recently
completed a Fischer Panda training program.
We also completely refreshed our website last year. You'll now find it easier to navi-
gate, jam-packed with information and with links to other useful sites. Have a look at
woodstockboats.com and let us know what you think!
For more information see ad on this page.

New Marina: Christophe Harbour, St. Kitts
St. Kitts will soon be home to Christophe Harbour, a new marina and luxury residen-
tial community on the island's southeastern peninsula. Christophe Harbour's debut
residential property offering, Sandy Bank Bay, is set along a horseshoe bay with two
reefs and a natural sand bank. Existing as a marine sanctuary, the bay will remain
free of boat moorings so that sealife can flourish and panoramic views of the
Atlantic are protected.

The Marina at Christophe Harbour will be located in what is presently the Great Salt
Pond, a 300-acre parcel that serves as the centerpiece of the 2,500-acre Christophe
Harbour resort. Whitehouse Bay, located just outside the Great Salt Pond, is a well-
protected yacht anchorage.
"St. Kitts is on the yachting flight path' geographically, so once the marina is up
and running, there will be no need to divert to Antigua on the way down from St.
Maarten to Barbados," believes Kate Spencer, who has resided in St. Kitts since
1978. Her husband, Philip, is a classic-yacht designer. Some sample cruising distanc-
es from other popular destinations are: Antigua, 55 miles; St. Maarten, 65 miles; St.
Barths, 55 miles; St. Thomas, 175 miles.
The Marina at Christophe Harbour is located at 17 14' N and 62 39' W. Upon its
completion, the marina will provide spacious berthing capacity and advantages
including a protected entrance and safe inner harbour; 300 slips (with 50 to 60 slips
accommodating vessels 85 feet to 400 feet); and a designated port-of-entry offer-
ing streamlined Customs and Immigration services.
For more information visit www.christopheharbour.com

Corrosion PROTECTION CorrosIo PRc ON


I Aoat t LL. steel
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JOTUN is also available at all Trinldadian
shipyards as well as all branches of

by Lucy Tulloch

"Where are all the boats?" was the question on everyone's lips in early December.
Large numbers of yachts were registered in the 48th Antigua Charter Yacht Show
but the docks seemed eerily empty...
Until, as happens every year, a steady stream I ... ..... ... i 1,1- appeared at
the entrance of Falmouth and English Harbours c.. i .... i ,11. .. .. .. procession
up the channel.
It is the oldest boat show in the Caribbean, and you could feel it in the interna-
tional buzz in the bars and cafes as industry i,.-, 1 ... 1,, .. .. ... d net-
worked over cappuccinos and smoothies. Two- ..... h. I i 1.11' I i -. .. .1 char-
ter brokers, 93 exceptional yachts and numerous sponsors and exhibitors came from

all over the world. The most exciting thing this year was the number of new launch-
es, and not small yachts either 55 were between 90 and 200 feet and eight over
250 feet long. Banners and bunting flew in the Christmas tradewinds from the likes
of Camper and Nicholsons, Edmiston, Fraser Yachts, Burgess, Nicholson's Yacht
Charters and International Yacht Collection.

the historic Copper & Limber Store in Nelson's Dockyard. There was also a glamor-
ous Welcome Dinner Party, there were wine tasting and brunches, there was an
evening yacht viewing, there was the more-popular than-ever Chefs Competition
held by the pool at the luxurious boutique hotel The Inn at English Harbour. There
were crew parties, bands, door prizes and finally the 25th Anniversary Fincham's
Follies Variety Show for some light evening entertainment.
Some large yachts not in the show, anchored off in Falmouth Harbour as berth
space was limited this week, led to one of the funniest sights of the week: the enor-
mous MirabeUa V (the largest sloop in the world, with a 292-foot mast) at anchor,
making the dwarfed J-boat Ranger (LOA 136 feet) putting up her main nearby look
quite like a little Dragon!
The Boat Show is run by the Antigua Charter Yacht Meeting, chaired by Paul Deeth
and co-board members Anne Marie Martin and Janetta Miller .1. it the incred-
ibly dedicated management team of Sarah Sebastian ... i ... i. Franklin.
Congratulations to you all. What a good start to the season!

Cruisers have their favorite websites for researching a number of factors that
affect their lives, not least of which is the inescapable weather. -.,. i
S/VAspen sent this useful list of Selected Caribbean Weather : ,
Eastern Caribbean Internet:
Caribbean Offshore Waters Forecast Wind and Waves for
the Eastern Caribbean
,, 1 ', ,, hi ii ....... i Ll W avesandl ITCZ
Atlantic Graphic Tropical Weather Outlook
www. nhc. noaa. gov/gtwo atl.shtml
Sailing Weather Forecasts for the Caribbean
www. passageweather com
NOAA Buoy for the Eastern Caribbean
,, 11 .. . .1, I .. php?station=41040
Win I ... I I . 1, ,1.. .I, the Caribbean
Volcanic Ash Advisory Montserrat Activity
W in l i 1 .. .. I .1 1 I ... I bean
http: //manati orbit nesdis. noaa. gov/quikscat/
Radar Image of the Eastern Caribbean
www meteo.fr/temps/domtom/antilles/pack public/animation/animMOSAIC2.html
Another radar weather site the Compass Crew likes is
http://hadar.cira.colostate.edu/ramsdis/online/RMTC BAR 1km vis.html



0600 0200 NMG Broadcast B
0930 0530 Offshore Forecast A
1030 0630 Trinidad Emergency Net 9Z4CP (Eric) 3855
1030 0630 Carib. I .... _, .. 9 Weather Net 3815
1100 0700 Caribbe ... ,, .'1.. (Chris) 8137
1100 0700 Caribbean Maritime Mobile Net 7250
1100 0700 Bahamas Weather Net 4003
1110 0710 Puerto Rico/VI Weather Net 3930
1120 0720 C6AGG Carolyn Wardle Weather Net 3696
1130 0730 KP2G Caribbean Weather Net (George) 7086
1200 0800 NMG Broadcast B
1200 0800 Coconut Telegraph 4060
1230 0830 Caribbean Weatlher (Chris) 8104
1300 0900 Caribbean Sea (WLO) C
1330 0930 Caribbean Weather (Chris) 12350
1530 1130 Offshore Forecast A
1800 1400 Caribbean Sea (WLO) C
1800 1400 NMG Broadcast B
2000 1600 Southbound II (Herb) 12359
2030 1630 Carib. Cocktail & Weather Net (George) 7086
2130 1730 Offshore Forecast A
2235 1835 Caribbean Emergency & Weather Net 3815
0000 2000 Caribbean Sea (WLO) C
0000 2000 NMG Broadcast B
0330 2330 Offshore Forecast A

Wefax* USB
Voice USB
Voice LSB/ham
Voice LSB/ham
Voice USB (Note 2)
Voice LSB/ham (Note 3)
Voice LSB/ham
Voice LSB/ham
Voice LSB/ham
Voice LSB/ham (Note 1)
Wefax* USB
Voice USB
Voice USB (Note 2)
Voice USB
Voice USB (Note 2)
Voice USB
Voice USB
Wefax* USB
Voice USB
Voice LSB/ham
Voice USB
Voice LSB/ham
Voice USB
Wefax* USB
Voice USB

* Since November 3, 2008 several radiofax charts produced by the National Hurricane Center which are broadcast from New
Orleans are based on information from different model run ttmes. A 36 hour wind/wave chart has been added to the New Orleans
broadcast. For full details visit www.nhc.noaa.gov/radiofax transmTssion changes.shtml
Frequencies (in kHz):
A) NMN, Chesapeake, 4426, 6501, 8764, 13089, 17314.
Caribbean Sea approximately 25 minutes later.
NMG, New Orleans, 4316, 8502,12788.
Caribbean Sea approximately 25 minutes later.
B) 4316, 8502, 12788, 17144.5
C) 4369, 8788, 13110, 17362, 22804. Gulf of Mexico, Southwest North Atlantic, then
Caribbean Sea
Note 1: An in-depth voice report followed by faxes and SSTV, except Sundays.
Note 2: Unless severe weather threatens, this net is not conducted on Sundays. When there are
active Tropical systems in the Atlantic, Caribbean Weather (Chris) runs a Net at 2300
UTC / 1900 AST, on 8137, Voice, USB. For complete schedule and changes visit
Note 3: George comes on approximately 0710 with a weather synopsis, then moves to 7086 and
at 0730 gives the complete Caribbean forecast including rebroadcasting WEFX.
WWV has World Marine Storm Warnings (Voice) at 8 minutes after each hour,
and Solar Flux information at 18 minutes after each hour on 2500, 5000,
10000, 15000, and 20000 AM.
During hurricane activity, information can be found continuously on the
Hurricane Watch Net on 14325 USB/ham.
Anyone, licensed or not, may legally operate on HAM frequencies in the event
of a life-threatening emergency.
St. Martin/Maarten 0730 VHF 14 Monday-Saturday
English Harbour 0900 VHF 68/06 Daily
Grenada 0730 VHF 68 Monday-Saturday
Chaguaramas 0800 VHF 68 Monday Sunday
Porlamar 0800 VHF 72 Monday Saturday
Puerto La Cruz 0745 VHF 72 Monday Saturday
Thanks to William Mills ofToucan I, Terin Rothbauer of FREE, Dave Richardson of
Overstreet, Bill Campbel ofAlcheringa II,the Pompas of Second Millennium, Steve
( .. Aspen and Nick Wardle ofThe Bahamas for information, which was correct
i, of our knowledge as this issue of Compass went to press.









711 rri4u& e

Experience classic West Indies Schooner





by Melodye Pomipa

Because I have served as Net Controller of the Caribbean Safety and Security Net
for more than 12 years, the editor of the Caribbean Compass asked me to address
the current situation regarding crimes against yachts in the Eastern Caribbean. As
we enter another sailing season, the purpose is to give the new Class of 2010 some
tips and to remind the old timers of any significant changes of which we all should
be aware.
These comments are based on the reports that have come in to the Caribbean
Safety and Security Net (all are posted on www.safetyandsecuritynet.com), various
e-mails from many individuals, and my personal observations. In no way should
anyone take this to be a scientific study: the only way we can derive useful statistics
from this data is to have what I call yacht-days (how many yachts each day per
island). At this time, there is no other database of incident reports, despite the prom-
ises of the OECS Secretariat three years ago to create such a thing. What the data
does tell us though, like the canary in the mine, is that serious crime against yachts
is on the increase, as a percentage of total crime reported.
First the numbers:

* year to date through December 14

While the total number of reports has decreased almost annually in the past five
years, along with the so-called petty crimes, the violent crimes, involving weapons
and physical assault, have increased dramaticall-- i-t-r--.t- of the total
reports. I attribute the decrease in total reports to ....... ,
Yachtspeople in the Eastern Caribbean are, for the most part, more attuned to
the potential of crime. Cruisers are taking measures to insure their own safety: lock-
ing the yacht and locking the dinghy, using bars in hatches and companionways in
potentially dangerous anchorages, curtailing their night-time activities away from
the yacht.
Because of considerable print publicity over the past three years (e.g. in
Soundings, Cruising World, Yachting WorldK Yachting Monthly, the Los Angeles Times
and all those newspapers who picked up that story, and the Compass), more people
are now aware of the issues, especially charter guests, who previously were, at best,
naive. Some of that publicity has exaggerated and sensationalized the number of
incidents, but intelligent sailors take that as part of the decision of where to sail.
Most reports to the Security Net come by e-mail from a wide variety of yachtsmen:

Americans, Canadians, British, Dutch, German, French, Swiss, Italian, Venezuelan,
Austrian, and local folks here in the islands.
Based on observations throughout the Eastern Caribbean, yachting tourism was
down by some 30 to 40 percent in the 2008-9 season over the previous season.
More and more cruisers are just not reporting what they think of as petty crimes
(e.g. thefts of "' ..- .... 1 i, .,i 1-1; they believe it's not worth the effort and there
is little chance i ,. .. i i .1 I .... recovered, and they don't want to damage the
reputation of their favorite anchorage.
The obvious point here is that we must take steps to protect ourselves because the
law enforcement authorities are hard-pressed to contain the increase in crime
against their own citizens, and they are stretched too thin to put much effort into
solving crimes against yachts. Unfortunately, the attitude of many police officers is
that their efforts are wasted because the yacht victims leave the island and are not
available for any trials, if the perpetrators are arrested. While this may be true if the
victims are charter guests, it is not true for cruisers, who may be very willing to re-
arrange their plans to attend such trials to give testimony.
The other two responses heard all too often are that the yachting victim brings it on
him self ...- i ..- I .I... ,,I .. I ,.- I i.... .. I 1, .i.,,, >st reports of crime es
against .. 1 ,, i '- I I ... I ,I ........ ... ... .... .. The drug scenario
is more apt to be on the perpetrator's side: the attempt to get easy cash to support his
drug habit. The spin doctors in Antigua were quick to point the finger at drug prac-
tices among the megayachts to explain the death of an Australian megayacht captain
last year, when, in fact, he was shot while chasing a purse snatcher during a walk
back to his villa following dinner. The victim could just as easily have been a Swiss
banker or a British construction worker the incident had little to do with yachting.
The insurance fraud response, on the other hand, is just too bizarre for comment!

On the positive side, police in Dominica, Carriacou and Grenada did arrest perpe-
trators in several crimes on those islands, and the defendants are serving time in
jail. The flip side is that the St. Vincent authorities have still not convicted anyone
responsible for the string of assaults and robberies taking place in Chateaubelair
over the past four years, and the yachting community is unaware of even any arrests
having been made in connection with those crimes. In most cases, police and coast
guard officials are prompt and courteous in taking reports but that is as far as it
goes. Four incidents closed of 63 reported is a closure rate of only six percent not
very good.
The various marine trades associations, while talking about security issues on
their websites and in their brochures, seem concerned with yachting security only
as a function of their revenue stream, not for altruistic motives having to do with
the yachts themselves. MIASL in St. Lucia was instrumental several years ago in
obtaining and staffing a patrol boat for the Rodney Bay area; that boat is no longer
in service.
-Continued on next page

-Continued from previous page
Their HELP billboard provides a phone number and a VHF channel for yachts to
call for help: the phone number does not work from a Digicel cell phone (we tried it
ourselves when we needed help) and no law enforcement agency responds to the
VHF call.
Dominica, via PAYS (Portsmouth Area Yacht Security), provides a patrol boat for
the north end of Prince Rupert Bay, if you don't mind the loud music two nights a
week and can find room to anchor among all the r- f---hich are in the good
anchoring spots, rather than in grass or rock). L .. .1.... i this patrol boat, as
well as the late St. Lucia boat and any others which are implemented, is easy to

W- a *. ...- .- w .-.a & -it ...

t: n* -arn btf BM 'W-S

An invaluable itinerary planning resource for sailors in
the Caribbean is the Security Net's regularly updated
website, www.safetyandsecuritynet.com

avoid i1, 1 1 ." just hide in the shadows until the patrol passes and then go on
with .. ...'.. business. Only if the patrol boat is equipped with communica-
tions gear and can respond quickly to calls for help can those potential incidents be
The Dominica Marine Association, as all the others, is interested in preserving the
reputation of Dominica, and asked me 1. t -i;, t- lelete all the old crime reports
from the Security Net website because 1I' .... Dominica a bad name". This
past summer, following the two boarding/assaults in Prince Rupert Bay, I was asked
to change the descriptions to minimize the injuries to one person and downplay the

use of the gun; concurrently, their press release describing the trial of two of the
perpetrators exaggerated the sentences given.
YSATT, in response to an .1 I 1,-1 if six incidents within a year on the rhumb
line between Trinidad and I'. i, ...- gas drilling platform, rather than pointing
out that four of the six were NOT on the rhumb line and one of the six was earlier
than the year in question, called a meeting with the Trinidad & Tobago Coast Guard
and other individuals, asking for protection from the rash of incidents listed.
Marinas and boatyards are not exempt from incidents of theft and burglary,
despite the promises of the :....... ... ... i i. facilities. There are several reports
every year from so-called sec... i ,i, - I i the boat when you walk away, even
to the showers. In fact, there have been reports of outboards locked to the stern rail
taken by thieves, as well as break-ins to locked boats in slips, so locking up is no
guarantee. It is fairly easy for a sneaky quiet thief to approach a marina slip from
the water.
Neither the marine trades associations nor the law enforcement agencies have
been able to curtail the watercraft speedin. 1 ...-. various anchorages, such
watercraft including jet skis, party boats, .i-i,,,,. and speed boats, water
taxis, and resort launches. The Security Net is receiving an increasing number of
reports each year having to do with damage to yachts and dinghies, as well as
severe injuries to people and even several deaths. Yachtsmen should be very
aware of conditions where they anchor and not take unnecessary risks, which
include standing up in the dinghy, no matter how cool it looks, swimming too far
from the yacht, and kayaking and snorkeling except very close to shore out of the
traffic lanes.
I-. .I 1 ..... i yachts should check the Security Net website
..'I" '" I I '1 latest information. In many anchorages, the
crimes are consistently of a type: for example, in Tyrrel Bay, Carriacou, it is nearly
always theft of an outboard, with the dinghy left to drift away, tucked away on a
remote beach, or deflated and sunk. Anyone who does not lock their dinghy to the
yacht, a dock or a tree on shore while in Tyrrel Bay is setting themselves up to be a
target, and that includes the fishermen and the water taxis. These outboards are
said to be headed to the St. Vincent Grenadines, where the change in police jurisdic-
tion prevents follow up. On the other hand, those few incidents in Dominica are
boardings to steal articles that can easily be sold: cameras, computers, watches, cell
phones, but never outboards.
Be wary of believing every blog you read on the Internet. The downside of having
such an extensive information tool is that everyone and his brother can post, claim-
ing to have the final word on the facts. Without specific information, various press
media have published wild speculations about the dangers of cruising, including in
their dire warnings incidents that occurred ten or 20 years ago. There are now MORE
rumors among the cruising community about crime than prior to the birth of the
Securit- -t .- 1--t -.1-- T
The 1 ".1 .1 ... ... 1 I ... ... 1 I a long list of safety tips accu-
mulated throughout the nearly 14 years of the Net's existence. It is not difficult to
take the necessary steps to avoid becoming the victim of a crime -icnt ---htl
There are, of course, no guarantees, but there are no guarantees in' i.
to lead. There are, however, smart practices which can prevent petty to serious prob-
lems. Like brushing your teeth in the morning becomes a habit, so too should LOCK





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we said we were joining the ARC,
people asked the strangest questions about what we
were going to do with the kids as if maybe we would
leave them in the backyard with a big bowl of food!" The
Dutch yacht Elena is stern to the dock at Rodney Bay
Marina and Adam Kok laughs as his sons Mees, age
three, and Pieter, one-and-a-half, clamber around the
cockpit. The aluminum-hulled Veliger 477, with a crew
also including the boys' mother, Leonie, and adult
crewmembers Rosa and Martin, had arrived in St.
Lucia a few hours before, as part of the Atlantic Rally
for Cruisers 2009. "It's special being with the children
for such a '-n. time in a small space," says Leonie.
Adam adds, never considered not taking them."
Every year as the cruising season in Europe ends,
hundreds of yachts voyage to the Caribbean. The ARC
began 24 years ago as an Atlantic crossing-in-compa-
ny for liveaboard cruisers, with enjoyment and safety
- rather than speed as its main considerations.
Speed soon entered the picture, with IRC Racing
Divisions racing under the auspices of the Royal
Ocean .... '' ..i 1i .I 1,5 ARC's original amateur
spirit ol .. 11 i . ... ..... ;- strong.
ARC2009 departed Las Palmas in the Canary Islands
on November 22nd, 2009, and the bulk of the 212-
boat fleet arrived at Rodney Bay, St. Lucia during the
week of December 7th.
Originated by cruising yachtsman Jimmy Cornell,
the ARC is now organized by World Cruising Club.
ARC2009 was sponsored by the Tourist Board of Gran
Canaria, the Port Authority of Las Palmas, the St.
Lucia Tourist Board and Rolnautic, and is run in asso-
ciation with Yachting World magazine.
The Open and Racing Divisions' competitions are, of
course, exciting. In this edition of the ARC, after a
course distance of 2,700 nautical miles and almost 12
days at sea, only 16 minutes and five seconds sepa-
rated the first two yachts to cross the finish line: the
Volvo 60 Big One and the Wally 80 Bagheera.
But w while the .. ... .... i i ... .
tion grabbing, i 1 . . .I. .11 .,,
Rally for Cruisers. And while cruising boats them-
selves continue to evolve into something more akin to
ti-ir r.-n --unterparts, one undeniable trait that
Si .. .... '" is the presence of small children in
the crew. As is typical for the ARC, and unlike most
ocean races, about ten percent of 2009's fleet were
"family" boats. They carried a total of 34 children.
The ARC r- ni-' r have made a consistent effort for
the event tc i I .'"" friendly. After arrival in Rodney
Bay, the St. Lucia Yacht Club hosts an annual Kids'
Day where the ARC youngsters and the SLYC junior
members enjoy fun and games together on the beach
and in the water. In the marina at Las Palmas before
the start, there was a dedicated family pontoon ("The
kids went feral," one parent noted) and there was a
children's club each morning, supervised by ARC staff.
For young Australian sailor Jesse Dransfield of the
Bavaria 46 Nika, a highlight was i i .1.... his ninth
birthday in Las Palmas three i.. i i the ARC
start; all the other ARC '- 1 ..- .1 -: the equiv-
alent of "Happy Birthc ... .. .. languages.
Jesse then crossed the Atlantic with his parents,
Helen and John, his .. 11 .11, Peter, his Uncle
Dean, and his siblings .. md Tyler, 4.
Helen remarks, "It happened suddenly thanks to
various circumstances we had the opportunity for a
year off. John and I grew up sailing dinghies. We had
chartered in Croatia, and recently Peter chartered this
exact boat and found out it was for sale.
-Continued on next page


Main photo: Like each new ARC arrival, within moments of completing their transatlantic passage, the Bjonness
family from Norway on the X 452 Odin is welcomed by St. Lucia Tourist Board and World Cruising staff
Inset: Rodney Bay Marina rolled out the red carpet on its new docks for the crews from 32 nations who sailed
in ARC2009

After a couple
of weeks at
sea, Zoe, Jesse
and Tyler fmm
the Australian
yacht Nika
were thrilled to
meet Rodney
Bay's famous
Fruit Man

L 9 H w Ltd


I i i Chain & Rope

Anchors & Fende
rulee Electric Wire

r Marine Hoses

R 'a" Bilge Pumps
.Ao= Lubricants & Oils



Stainless Fasteners
Stainless Fittings
VHF Radios
Flares & Life Jackets

Antifouling Paint
Paint Brushes
Epoxy Resins
Sanding Paper & Discs

Snorkeling Equipment Hand & Power Tools

Fishing Gear

Houseware & Cookware

Rodney ^^^^^I Bay, StLci Tl:(58 42029 Fx (58 520310 -mil a

--- an--



-Continued from previous page
"I was encouraged when I started reading blogs of
boats with children aboard. The stars aligned: we
bought the boat, packed up the house, took the kids
out of school... and here we are!" The family will sail
Nika back home to Australia.
The previously mentioned Kok family is on a planned
three-year circumnavigation. The toddlers already had
sailing experience back home and when the adults are
busy working ship, "they are different boys," Adam
says; they seem to instinctively know to stay out of the
way. A day and a half into the Atlantic -r- 'n: they
got over being seasick. Leonie says, I1' I no
problem sleeping, and it-- -. .- 1 --v they devel-
oped their sea legs." Ad .... -I could walk
around onboard when the boat was heeled at 30
degrees, but after we arrived he had to relearn how to
walk on the dock."
One of Elena's cabins is a playroom, and there are a
beanbag and an inflatable wading pool for the cockpit,
to which the children are restricted when not below
decks. Underway, Rosa "rni- r tivities with them
such as baking. Adam - I basically do the
same things as at home: play, fight, enjoy life. The
scariest moments have been on land, never on the
boat. Rules on the boat are really strict."
Leonie stowed lots of goodies provided by the boys'
grandparents, and doled them out every couple of days
to keep the fun factor high. They also 'ni-" I fishing
and saw two whales. On December 5th, 11 I ..... 1 cel-
ebrated the Dutch tradition of Sinterklaas; the kids set
out their shoes in the evening, hoping that in the
morning they would contain gifts. To their delight,
Sinterklaas (Martin in costume) actually appeared in
the companionway. Sinterklaas is believed to visit
Holland by steamboat, from Spain, and five minutes
after he "came aboard" the boys spotted their first
freighter which Mees promptly identified as
Sinterklaas's boat!
Elena's ARC crewmembers Rosa and Martin departed
the boat in St. Lucia and the Koks will continue west
ward. Leonie says that other families wondering about
S .... "should do it. The time togeth-
.... rtant; the children have their
parents around all the time. And for us an important part
of the ARC was to meet other boats with kids."
Another notable family participating in ARC2009
was aboard the Beneteau 57 Les Papillons the crew
consisted of males from three generations of an
English family. Steve Bennett, 42, was skipper, cook
and i.- .t.1 .i: crew comprised his father,
ArthL I ..... Keith; his sister's husband,
Shane; and his sons Matt, 17, and Jack, 8. Jack was
a pier-head jumper. When his mother .. 1., him to
Las Palmas to say good-bye, he asked .1 1. would go
along, "to take time off school and prove to myself that
I could do without TV. Now it seems strange how I
lived." Jack says he wants to continue sailing.
Although sailing in Cruising Division, Les Papillons'
crew was competitive. To stay in the best winds they
sailed 3,352 miles 500 miles more than a similar boat
that came in behind them and went for boat speed,
i.D re than 1,000 miles total under spinnaker.
i1 really looked after us," Steve said. Why this
boat? "The value for money was fantastic. I looked at five
or six other boats over 50 feet. The little things that go
wrong you can live with, but it behaves like an adult."
Most problems were the result of chafe: the main hal-
yard snapped and "lots" of sheets broke. Steve says,
"The key was its all family, .111. .- i i ..- 1. i.d
sailed together before. It wa i..... I i i "
Jack int-rj--t= "Except for... what do you call
them? ." .11-
Matt grins at his bother and say .,,,,. . -. 11.
Atlantic is a big achievement. It's i i.... i i . ....

Vn Y-1 =-- that real things mitt- 'it].;- ..-- -
- ...... ... -young folks away f. ... I .i i ,,,,. ... ,
and toward natural, good 1,,,,.- "
"In busy lives back in th i I. we don't have enough
time," Steve observes. 'We've all just had two solid
weeks i1. If you can do the ARC, do it. But not
just th, I my sailing adventure. There are highs
and lows in crossing an ocean, but you'll never meet
anybodywho: :--t' it "
Keith adds, I1. i provides real companionship,
a real brotherhood, almost like a family. There are so
many nationalities, people with so many different lev-
els of experience, but you find at the end of the day
we're all the same."

Above: Boat buddies. The Dutch Kok family Leonie,
Pieter, Adam and Mees are visited aboard Elena by
Sepke, Ward and Flor Stellamans of A Small Nest from

Below: Keith, Jack, Matt, Steve and Arthur on Les
Papillons, celebrating a happy crossing: 'the key was
it's all family'

As Keith noted, not all of the fellow feeling saturating
the ARC has to do with children.
Jan Sigtsema, crew on the Jongert 2700M Ithaka,
grew up in Curacao from age two to 16, "so coming to
the Caribbean i- 1.1 ....... 1i ... After returning to
Europe for the I I- 1 i ... the boat to do the
St. Maarten Heineken Regatta.
Anders T -- r- who has owned boats since 1959
and sees '. I ,- "a little bit organized and a lot of
fun!" says one of the main reasons he joined was the
opportunity to meet fellow sailors. Anders, sailing
Victory II, a Swedish-built Farr 56, intends to spend

the season cruising the islands with various friends
aboard, haul out in Grenada for the summer, then
transit the Panama Canal the following January. A
decade ago, Anders helped a friend deliver a boat from
Trinidad to Guadeloupe; since then he has chartered
with The I--r' i: .;1 Sunsail out of Grenada and St.
Maarten: 1 1..- .. I of paradise." Anders says he
asked his wife, Annette, to circumnavigate 30 years
ago, and when the dream 1 --:-. to come true it was
her idea to join the ARC. I .. i hesitate! A big part is
the people you meet."
Of the ARC2009's camaraderie, World Cruising's
Andrew Bishop says, "It was a good bunch of partici-
pants this year in the sense that they gelled very well.
There was a very good atmosphere in the two-week
build-up to the start. And then there were steady
winds for the majority of the crossing, and breakages
were generally small and the sort of thing you'd expect
on a '1n: i-assage, like chafing, so most people were
happy I 1 warm welcome in St. Lucia with rum
punch and fresh fruit presented to each arriving boat,
accompanied by a steel-pan serenade followed by
yet more parties, added to the 1 -bes. Everybody
likes a fast passage, and for I- .... on December
9th, there were 130 boats in for the "early arrivals"
Welcome Party, compared to last year's 29.
"We're looking forward to the 25th edition next year,
which will be our 21st in St Lucia," says Andrew. "For
the last ten years, we've had more than 200 boats per
year quite a remarkable achievement. Because it's
an international event, it continues to grow interna-
'. .11 Iii. .., i liere has been a drop in entries from
1,. I 1. 11, i filled the fleet. There is a continued
trend in growth from entries from former Eastern Bloc
countries such as Croatia, Russia and Poland."
At the gala Awards Ceremony on December 19th,
Overall Winner of the Cruising Division, the crew of
Amoress 2 from Sweden was presented with the Jimmy
Cornell Trophy, as well as the Gran Canaria Trophy for
winning Class E. Nightlife, the Sigma 41 skippered by
Tom Sperry, won the RORC Racing Division. The Arch
Marez Trophy for the crew that had best embraced the
shoreside activities of ARC2009 went to the all-female
Girls for Sail crew on Diamonds are Forever.
The -n:-r ^pr'P" crews were recognized, too. Best
Family I .... ... on corrected time went to the
Chapdelaine family from France on MiniMaxi. Lani
Waldbrenner aboard Linocat, from Germany, was next
on stage as the youngest participant at just 18
months. Many of the ARC boats submitted blogs to the
ARC website during the -r-*..- and a prize was
awarded to the Stellaman- i ..... of Belgium on the
Beneteau Oceanis 46 A Small Nest for a hilarious log
submitted as through the eyes of Ed the Iguana; for
the past ten years Ed the plastic toy iguana has sailed
the ARC aboard a boat with children in the crew.
Underscoring the tradition of the importance of the
family boats in the ARC, every child in ARC2009 was
invited on stage to receive a prize.
For full results visit

WorldARC, a circumnavigation in company, departs
St. Lucia on January 6th. Crossing the Atlantic from
west to east at the end of the Caribbean season, ARC
Europe starts from both Tortola (BVI) and from Florida,
calling at Bermuda and then cruising the Azores, before
finishing in Portugal and northern Europe. The start
date is May 6th. The transatlantic ARC2010 will depart
on November 21st.
Thanks to the St. Lucia Tourist Board, Palm Haven
Hotel, IGY Rodney Bay Marina and the World Cruising
Club staff in St. Lucia for making Compass's research
trip to St. Lucia so enjoyable. And special thanks to all
the interviewed ARC crews for their warm hospitality.

St CJli iackt ilub
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St. Croix Yacht Club COMPETITION
February 19. 201W:
Hospice Regatta Z Z,.i.0
Teague Bay, St. Croix Criain Rum Wecan e Party
U.S. Virgin Islands February 20-21, .010: .
CSA SpintNan-Spin, Ondsignr, "'
Hrpttni'ian 1n P*i Bnench Cals, .MuIti-hulls, Optimisis,
I'1C; ) (34Q1 77 .P I i, r L .. .. .I.f Hci Cni. CruisR I
www slcronreglata cort .

H auivng runds and awareness
for Hospice on St. Crox. 4"

Sailing for Others... FY _.... ,.


Bojangles IV Takes Top Honors in
20th Caribbean 1500
A week of strong northeast winds in early November
2009 propelled the 54 sailboats in the 20th Anniversary
Caribbean 1500 fleet from Hampton, Virginia to
Tortola, BVI. The boats hugged the rhumb line and
sailed on a single port tack for the entire passage.

-, *

Bojangles: 'He couldjup so high, jump so high, and
then he'd lightly touch down...'

Bojangles IV, a Gulfstar 50 ketch owned by the
Kilgour family from Toronto, Canada, took Overall
Handicap Honors. First to finish was Crazy Horse, a
Sundeer 60 owned by Bill and Rosemary Thomas of
Middletown, Maryland, who completed the passage
in six days, nine hours and 15 minutes.
The Caribbean 1500 Rally, managed by the Cruising
Rally Association, left Hampton on November 2nd
after a week of preparatory briefings, safety inspec-
tions, and gala social events, and arrived at the
Nanny Cay Resort & Marina six to ten days later with
many veteran skippers recording "personal best" pas-
sage times.
Colin and Kathleen Klgour on Bojangles IV with
Mitchell (age 11) and twins Gillian and Clare (age 9)
were one of eight boats with children that participat-
ed in this year's rally.
The 2009 Caribbean 1500 fleet included participants
from 23 US states, three Canadian provinces,
Germany, the UK, and New Zealand. More than 40
percent of the boats were owned by veteran Ralliers.
The boats averaged 47.5 feet in length. Four multihulls
and a schooner joined the fleet of monohull sloops
and ketches in this year's fleet.
The fleet sailed in two divisions: the Cruising Class, a
way to enjoy a cruise in company, or the Rally Class
to participate in the fun race. All received the same
safety, weather and communication benefits. All
Cruising Class boats were presented awards in Tortola
that recognized their achievement of safely complet-
ing an open ocean passage of 1,500 miles.
The Rally Fleet was divided into four handicap class-
es. In the Rally Class I, Clover III, a Swan 56, skippered

by David Fraizer, led the pack. In Rally Class II, Special
Delivery, a Taswell 58 owned by veterans Bill and
Diana Quinlan, placed first. Charlie and Jenny
McNamara, on their Catalina 470, Lady, topped Rally
Class III. Overall Handicap Winner Bojangles IV led
Rally Class IV, followed by Amarone, a Stevens 50
owned by Lenny Statile, and Brian and Km Duff's One
World, the sole schooner in the fleet.
Stolen Hour received the event's Tempest Award,
emblematic of the "Spirit of the Caribbean 1500."
Skipper Peter VanAlstine sailed in the 1990 Caribbean
1500 with his father, Peter Sr., as skipper. This year, the
two VanAlstines sailed with roles reversed. Peter and
his wife, Christine, will cruise the Caribbean this winter
with their children Hannah and Hayden. The award for
Best Performance by a Double-Handed Crew went to
Christoph and Dagmar Hartung from Weinheim,
Germany on Flomaida II. The Brouse family (Krk and
Elizabeth, with 11 -year-old twins Wesley and Clare) on
Discovery, a Bowman 57, earned the event's Fishing
Trophy, using hand-made lures loaned to them by kids
who participated in the Caribbean 1500 in 1999.
More than 15,000 website visitors from 59 countries
monitored the progress of the boats in the rally. With
wireless transponders on each yacht, positions were
broadcast via satellite six times each day. All Ralliers
received cold champagne and a warm welcome at
Nanny Cay Resort and Marina in Tortola, where the
BVI Tourist Board and Road Town Wholesale hosted
nightly parties.
The Cruising Rally Association, founded by veteran solo
sailor and sailing event organizer Steve Black, is widely
supported by a number of leading companies, includ-
ing Davenport & Company, Nanny Cay Resort and
Marina, LLC, West Marine, Blue Water Sailing Magazine,
Switlik, OCENS, ICOM, and World Cruising Club.
For more information visit www. carib 1500. corn

Trinis Dominate St. Lucia's BMW J/24 Championship
Michael Green reports: St. Lucia Yacht Club hosted
the third BMW J/24 Invitational Championship from

Regional J/24 teams raced off The Landings in
St. Lucia

November 6th through 8th, 2009 in Rodney Bay. With
teams from Barbados, Grenada, Trinidad and St.
Lucia, six teams sailed 18 races over the weekend.
Hosted in the The Landings' private marina with
teams staying in luxury apartments and two beautiful
BMWs on show, this regatta was a five-star event.
Friday night's briefing and cocktail party was held at
The Landings marina with the six Js tied alongside.
Racing started Saturday morning just offshore -
great viewing for those on the beach or aboard
Endless Summer's large cat. Courses were 20-minute

windward-leewards. After lunch the sailors sailed six
more races, with clear skies and ten knots of breeze.
Results were close among the top five, with only three
points separating Stephen Bushe's Trinidad & Tobago
team, Barbados, the two St. Lucian teams
and Grenada.
Sunday dawned with more perfect sailing breezes.
Team Trinidad & Tobago sailed clear of the field to
clinch victories in five of the six races; adding a sec-
ond place saw T&T finish with 21 points overall. Robbie
Yearwood's Grenada team fought off the St. Lucia
teams, finishing second with 35 points, and Nick
Fosberg's St. Lucia team was three points back in third
place overall.
Trinidad & Tobago teams have now won the last
two clashes in the J/24 class, achieving first and third
places in the Barbados Nationals and now a first over-
all in St. Lucia, showing great promise for the upcom-
ing 2010 CAC Games in Puerto Rico.
Thanks go to the main sponsor, BMW Prestige
Motors, along with The Landings, St. Lucia Distillers and
Peter & Company for prizes, and to the committee
boat, II Restless. All money raised by this event goes to
the St. Lucia Yacht Club's youth sailing program.
Thanks also to the Trinidad & Tobago Sailing
Association for information in this report. For more
information visit http://sfluciayachtclub. com

Bobby Velasquez Overall Winner
in 5th Golden Rock Regatta
The Fifth Annual Golden Rock Regatta, held
November 11th through 17th, included races from St.
Maarten to Anguilla, Anguilla to St. Martin, St. Martin
to Statia, and Statia to St. Maarten. In his first appear-
ance in the event, Sir Robert "Bobby" Velasquez, rep-
resenting the St. Maarten Yacht Club and racing his
Beneteau 45 F5, L esperance, was awarded the
Governor's Trophy by Statia Governor Hyden Gittens.
Compass correspondent St6phane Legendre was
there, and we'll have a full report in next month's issue!
Team Tulloch Thrills at US Women's
Match Championship
Carol Bareuther reports: The US Sailing Women's
Match Racing Championship (USWMRC) was held in
St. Thomas, USVI this year, hosted by the St. Thomas
Yacht Club and sailed November 12th through 15th in
Cowpet Bay. It is the first time the national event was
held outside the 50 states.
Light winds worked to the benefit of US Sailing Team
AlphaGraphics (USSTAG) member Genny Tulloch (of
San Francisco, California) on the final day. Tulloch was
joined by crew Chafee Emory (of Newport, Rhode
Island), Elizabeth Hall (Chevy Chase, Maryland) and
Elizabeth Kratzig (Miami Beach, Florida).
Tulloch upset fellow USSTAG teammate, Anna
Tunnicliffe (Plantation, Florida), and her crew of Molly
O'Bryan Vandemoer (Redwood City, California), Liz
Bower (Rochester, New York), and Alice Manard
(Charleston, South Carolina) in the finals. Manard and
Vandemoer are both members of USSTAG. Team
Tunnicliffe had dominated the first three days of the
championship, losing just one match.
Shifty conditions and a breeze barely reaching six
knots set the scene for the final two matches of the
semifinals and for the four match finals. In the semifi-
nals, Tunnicliffe defeated Annie Gardner-Nelson (San
Diego, California) in three matches. Tulloch bested
USSTAG member, Katie Pilley-Lovell (New Orleans,
Louisinana), in three matches to force a Tunnicliffe-
Tulloch face off in the finals. Team Tunnicliffe had
gone 3-0 against Team Tulloch in their first three round
robin matches.
-Continued on next page

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I , -,:i ii: :. :. the first and third match.
Tunnicliffe won the second match, leaving her no
choice but to win the fourth match in order to stay in
the game. They were only three boat lengths from the
finish and both teams were on a beam reach for the
finish. The two teams both jibed, and Tulloch came
out of the gybe with better boat speed and held it
straight to the finish line. "We had a good time and a

Run concurrently with the US Women's Match
Championships in St. Thomas was the Radiology
Women's Regatta, in which young local sailors
Agustina Barbuto and Nikki Barnes, above,
trounced the competition

lot of fun," says Tulloch. "We're about 30 pounds light-
er than Anna's team and I think that helped us in the
light winds today."
The win for Tulloch is especially sweet after losing to
Tunnicliffe in the finals of last year's USWMRC. "It feels
great to win this championship," Tulloch says. "We
enjoy racing in St. Thomas. The conditions are great."
"This is the first time the USWMRC has been sailed
outside of the US," says regatta director, Ruth Miller,
"and we're excited to have hosted this event and this
level of sailors."
The 4th annual St. Thomas Radiology Women's
Regatta and Tennis Tournament was held concurrent-
ly with the USWMRC. St. Thomas' Nikki Barnes and St.
John's Agustina Barbuto won the regatta portion of
the event with a flawless string of first place finishes
over eight races. "After every race we went over
what we did wrong, figured out how to do it right and
put this into practice for the next race," says Barnes, a
10th grade student at Antilles School. "Even though
we won each race, we were always on the move
and forming new strategies to account for the ever
changing conditions."
St. Croix's Sydney Jones and Krista Siino finished in

second place, while fellow Crucian sailors, Challis Diaz
and Genevieve "Genna" Keller finished third. Twenty-
eight sailors competed in the regatta.
The 2009 US Women's Match Racing Championship
is sponsored locally by St. Thomas Radiology
Associates, which also sponsored the 4th Annual St.
Thomas Radiology Women's Regatta & Tennis
Tournament, and by Rolex Watch USA, Dry Creek
Vineyard, Predict Wind and Sail Proud.


At Last: Triple Jack Wins Round Tortola Race
After copping numerous line honours in the Round
Tortola Race since her arrival in the BVI in 1997, Triple
Jack finally claimed overall victory on the 40th anni-
versary of the Peg Legs' Round Tortola Race held
November 21st, 2009.
In conditions seemingly made for this trimaran, she
circumnavigated Tortola in three hours, 33 minutes
and 27 seconds, beating closest rival Jurakan, a
Melges 32, by 42 minutes across the line. With the
wind blowing from the south-southeast (unheard of in
the event's 40-year history, according to race veteran
Peter Haycraft) the fleet was predominantly able to
sail directly to Beef Island and, once on the north side,
reach directly to Soper's Hole. Once there, however,
fickle winds played havoc with some competitors' fin-
ish times but not Triple Jack's she "rattled through"
in three painless tacks.
Because of the light winds and wind direction, the
Nanny Cay-sponsored Triple Jack, a Kelsal 47, was
able to carry full main, spinnaker and half-furled
genoa almost the entire length of her northern run
along Tortola, allowing her to put time between her
and the rest of the fleet.
Peter Haycraft's Pipe Dream was second in Racing
Class, 14 minutes behind Triple Jack on corrected time.
Last year's winner, Dave West's Jurakan, missed sec-
ond place by one second. Guy Eldridge's Luxury Girl
lost a whopping 22 minutes after missing her recall for

being over early; it's never a good sign when you have
to use a spinnaker to get back to the line to restart.
Tom Mullen on Shamrock Vwon Cruising Class, with
Adrian Sinton's Rascal second and Robin Tattersall's Diva
third. A raucous prizegiving was held at Peg Legs'
Restaurant with Dick Schoonover as MC. Peg Legs'
Restaurant and Nanny Cay Marina sponsored the event.

TTSA's Budget Marine Dinghy Ranking Race
Trinidad & Tobago Sailing Association in
Chaguaramas, Trinidad saw exciting dinghy racing on
November 21st at the Budget Marine Dinghy Ranking
Race. The Optimist Dinghy Class competed in four

A new National Sailing Scheme supports training for
the T&T sailors of tomorrow

afternoon races in good winds and choppy seas.
Abigail Affoo showed good speed downwind to take
the first race with this term's ranking leader, Myles
Kaufmann, coming a close second. Three competitors
succumbed to the conditions and did not finish the
race. Race Two saw some close battles as the sailors
became accustomed to the chop; Derek Poon Tip
took the honours with Myles Kaufmann again in sec-
ond place. In Race Three, Kaufmann took first with
Kellyann Arrindell second. The fourth and final race
proved an exciting contest between Helena Coombs
and Derek Poon Tip. Coombs led the race up until the
final mark, but Poon Tip managed to catch up and
take the honours over the finish line.
A gutsy performance in the Optimist Beginner Class
by Geovannie Peters, of the sailing programme in
the town of Vessigny, saw him win all four races.
Vessigny's Caribbean Champions in the 420 Class,
Daniel Briggs and Dekife Charles, won all four races
without contest. Wesley Scott took the honours from
Mark Peters in the Laser Radial class and Andrew
Affoo came home uncontested in the Laser
Standard class.
On the following day, the first safety-boat operator
course in a series started, under the new National
Sailing Scheme training programme. Twelve potential
dinghy instructors (eight from Chaguaramas and four
from Vessigny) learned rescue techniques for sailing
dinghies, using the sailing school safety boat fleet.
Steve Jackson and Sebastian Godsmark, experienced
sailing instructors from the UK, will be assisting with
training and coaching local students for two months.
The TTSA Sailing School Administrator thanked the
Sport Company of Trinidad & Tobago (SPORTT) for
help with funding and continuing support of efforts to
gain international success through the new National
Sailing Scheme.
For more information contact Hedge Shuter at (868)
634-1216 or youthsailingschool@yahoo. corn
-Continued on next page



ilnimaue F.W.I.

-Continued from previous page
48 Turn Out for ARC Flotilla 2009
Danielle DeRouck reports: The fourth annual ARC
Flotilla sailed off from Castries Harbour, St. Lucia on
November 22nd, bound for Rodney Bay Marina. The
Brig Unicorn joined the fleet and fired the cannons to
start the event.

.. I

Say 'ARC!' Key players from St. Lucia's public and
private sectors showed their ARC spirit aboard the
flotilla's mother ship, Grey Ghost

The Flotilla is held on the day the Atlantic Rally for
Cruisers (ARC) starts in the Canary Islands, bound for St.
Lucia, and is designed to raise the event's profile locally.
A total of 46 power- and sailboats registered in advance
and two more boats joined the event on the day.
Aboard many of the yachts were representatives of
the Flotilla's sponsors. The Flotilla's mother yacht,
Bernard Johnson's Bertram 54, Grey Ghost, hosted St.
Lucia's Minister of Tourism, Honorable Allen Chastanet;
Director of Tourism Lewis Louis; St. Lucia Yacht Club
(SLYC) Commodore Stephen King; Rodney Bay Marina
General Manager Adam Foster and his fiancee Alex
Prowse; and Bob Hathaway representing the Marine
Industries Association of St. Lucia (MIASL).
After arrival in the Rodney Bay Marina, all partici-
pants proceeded to H20 Restaurant to enjoy compli-
mentary drinks from the Saint Lucia Tourist Board and
Heineken, snacks sponsored by H20, and music by
the Digicel Steel Pan Band. Certificates of participa-
tion were presented.
The Flotilla is organized by SLYC and MIASL, with
assistance from the St. Lucia Tourist Board and Rodney
Bay Marina. Special thanks go to this year's sponsors
- Digicel, Heineken, Columbian Emeralds, Travel
Concept and Blue Waters as well as to KIKA (press
boat), Merlin Too (photo boat) and to all the partici-
pants for making this year's Flotilla a success.
For more information visit http://sluciayachtclub. com
The Superyacht Cup Antigua is This Month
The Superyacht Cup in Antigua has new dates at
the end of January.
"More than 15 yachts have said they plan to partici-
pate and we are confident that there will be a really
strong fleet and excellent racing," says Patrick
Whether, Event Organizer. The event will be held over
four days with registration on January 27th and racing
on the 28th, 29th and 30th. The "Bucket Rating" sys-
tem will be used, with two races planned for the 29th.
Perini Navi will be returning to sponsor the
Superyacht Cup Antigua and are planning to have at
least two of their fleet taking part. The Briand-
designed 38-metre sloop P2, built by Perini, has con-

firmed participation. Leading yacht insurance broker
Pantaenius, a long-term support of The Superyacht
Cup, will also continue their sponsorship of the Antigua
event. Wayfarer Marine from Maine USA is taking up
silver sponsorship of The Superyacht Cup Antigua.
For more information visit www.thesuperyachtcup.com
New Trophy for Female Sailors at
Grenada Sailing Festival and more!
Budget Marine Grenada, a long-standing sponsor of
the Grenada Sailing Festival, will present a new
Perpetual Trophy at the 2010 Grenada Sailing Festival,
which runs from January 29th to February 2nd.
The Budget Marine Trophy will be awarded to the
most outstanding female sailor participating in the
event's Port Louis Racing Series, four days of interna-
tional yacht racing. Nicholas George, Manager of
Budget Marine Grenada, explained, "The company
has long been a great supporter of the promotion and
recognition of talented female sailors, and we are very
pleased to bring this to the Grenada Sailing Festival.
The aim of the Budget Marine Perpetual Trophy is to
acknowledge and encourage sailing talent, spirit and
ambition in our many female sailors, and will not nec-
essarily go to the one who is over the finish line first."
The Trophy is a beautifully crafted wall-mounted
chronometer, which will be permanently displayed in
the Budget Marine Grenada Store in True Blue, and
each year the winner's name will be added to an
engraved plaque under the chronometer, and a pic-
ture of the presentation featured in a Grenada Sailing
Festival Photo Gallery also in the store.
The 2010 Grenada Sailing Festival will offer not one,
but two weekends of great sailing action. By staging
the sailing over two weekends, the Festival will provide
more interesting and challenging racing for all partici-
pating sailors.
For the second year running, yachts taking part in
the Port Louis Racing Series will be able to dock at a
"home port", Camper & Nicholsons Port Louis Marina,
which has some 160 slips available for yachts of all
sizes. Camper & Nicholsons Marinas is offering a dis-
count on docking to all participants in the 2010 Port
Louis Racing Series. Overall, prices have been
reduced by 20 percent on previous rates, and then
the marina is offering all yachts taking part in the
Festival a further 30 percent discount on dock space.
Racing will start and finish from this base, with new,
longer courses, including an extended South Coast
Ocean Triangle. There will also be four days of parties
Grenadian style. The new look Victory Bar at Camper
& Nicholsons Port Louis Marina will be "the place to
be" for Finish Line Limes, happy hours, and a new
selection of after-race parties, including the Mount
Gay Red Cap Party and Festival Farewell Prize
Presentation Gala Dinner. True Blue Bay Resort's
Dodgy Dock is still on the calendar too: the popular
Festival venue hosts the Monday night's party.
Sailing action continues on February 6th and 7th,
when the crowd-pulling Grenada Sailing Festival
Digicel Work Boat Regatta comes to Grand Anse
Beach. There will be competition on the water
between the sailing communities of Carriacou,
Gouyave, Grand Mal, Petite Martinique, Sauteurs and
Woburn, plus live entertainment, games and activities
for the children, arts and crafts on sale, and food stalls
with traditional dishes on offer. New plans pair this
spectacular weekend of racing with the island's
Independence Celebrations.
There is more good news for owners or skippers plan-
ning to have a pre-Festival clean or maintenance
check: Spice Island Marine Services is offering a ten-
percent discount on haul/launch, chocking and lay-
days (after the company's standard five free days) for

yachts participating in the Festival. The offer is good
for the month of January and is non-transferable.
Contact Justin Evans at Spice Island Marine at justind
spiceisland marine.com
The Grenada Sailing Festival Port Louis Racing Series
is part of the Southern Caribbean Regatta Circuit -
come south and sail with us! For more details check
websites www.grenadasailingfestival.com, www.sail-
week.com and www.sailingcarriacou.com
For more information on the Grenada Sailing Festival
see ad on page 5.
Competition and Compassion in St. Croix Event
Ellen Sanpere reports: The St. Croix Yacht Club
Hospice Regatta is set to start off on February 19th
with an Opti Clinic for the youngsters and a fabulous
rum party for the adults, followed by lots of great rac-
ing, February 20th and 21st.
"Inspired by Competition Enhanced with
Compassion' is the regatta's motto," says Julie San
Martin, regatta director. "In addition to being a great
warm-up for boats and their crews (competition), we
are sailing for a worthwhile cause, supporting hospice
services for all who need it on St. Croix (compassion)."
The winning CSA Spinnaker-1 skipper will get his/her
weight in Cruzan Rum and an invitation to the Hospice
Regattas National Championship to be held in
Rochester, New York next June. The competition will
include up to 30 other Hospice Regatta winners from
the US and Canada.
In St. Croix, racing is for the entire family. As many as
30 eight- to 15-year-olds will compete in four Optimist
divisions after attending the Opti Clinic, back by pop-
ular demand, to improve their skills. The kids also get

m I yct > la oY-1 i I -ust t O. 1 -uI r- s1
left: Atlantic Raider, Rushin' Rowlette, Glory Daze,
J Walker, Cayennita and Magnificent 7
breakfast and lunches, included in the entry fee, and
the overall winner gets his or her weight in sports drink.
In addition to Opti and CSA racers, the regatta
invites all local and visiting liveaboards, cruising boats
and multihulls to race in the Buck Island Channel, and
promises at least one day of point-to-point racing,
including the challenging Christiansted town race.
One-design IC-24s and Rhodes 19s are invited to race
in the protected waters of Teague Bay, with lunch
ashore at the yacht club.
The St. Croix Yacht Club Hospice Regatta is an all-
volunteer effort to raise funds and awareness for hos-
pice care on St. Croix. Over one-third of the St. Croix
population is under-insured or has no health insurance
coverage at all. One hundred percent of the funds
raised will go to support the end-of-life medical needs
of St. Croix residents, ensuring a dignified closure to
their lives regardless of their ability to pay.
-Continued on next page

KPi MARINE2 10sherm 's
TANANHA 1111111111811 01TRIBOTOR A lff ?hoi *e"

2 10 4-sine bSp e Pkninial

*10,000 Genie Spare P1ris and Spot Fishing TaiRde

*Marine Accessories- 'Reel and Rod
'Aftir Sales Se vice a a O m Marine Ei ip

After Sales Se e Marine Equipment


S: : ,, H: 1:: Regattas netted
more than US$1million for hospice care in their com-
munities. Fiscal non-profit sponsorship, provided by the
St. Croix Foundation, offers donors 501(c) (3) tax-
deductible sponsorship options at several levels.
Acknowledging the challenges of US entry require-
ments, Customs and Border Patrol officers will be at
the yacht club on Friday to welcome visitors arriving
by boat. There is plenty of anchoring room in Teague
Bay, making for a one-stop registration, clearance
and party experience.
Some might say, the most compassionate part of the
regatta is the "enter now, pay later" provision! Food
and entertainment will be available all weekend, and
to better plan a memorable party and regatta, San
Martin asks skippers to pick a class and to register
online. "Please enter early," she says, "No payment is
due until February 19th, and there are no penalties if
you are unable to show up for any reason." That said,
St. Croix offers great sailing in February, competing for
a worthy cause, and its famous Crucian hospitality:
racers are encouraged to make their plans now!
For more information see ad on page 15.

South Grenada Regatta 2010 Launched
The thriving yachting industry brings revenue to
Grenada. Wanting to celebrate the yachting commu-
nity and also attract more yachts from other islands to
Grenada, Le Phare Bleu Marina & Boutique Hotel held
the first South Grenada Regatta in February 2009. It
wiSri hr n h -si -o

Grenada's Tourism Board Chairman, Richard
Strachan, is encouraged by strong sponsorship for the
second South Grenada Regatta, coming next month

A special reception was held on November 27th,
2009, to announce the dates of the second edition:
February 26th through 28th. At the launch, Richard
Strachan, Chairman of the Grenada Board of Tourism,
said he is encouraged by so many sponsors from the
last Regatta who are still on board; some new and sig-
nificant sponsors have also been secured.
Damon Du Bois, Marketing & Sales Manager for
Westerhall Estate Ltd, is pleased Westerhall will be sup-
porting the event for a second year, using the oppor-
tunity to promote Westerhall Plantation Rum. The SGR
Committee would like to thank all their sponsors and
supporters, especially Westerhall Estate Limited,
Netherlands Insurance, Real Value Supermarket and
Le Phare Bleu Marina & Boutique Hotel.
Jana Caniga, owner of Le Phare Bleu Marina and

co-founder of the SGR, explained that the Regatta
Committee discussed how to enhance the experi-
ence for participants and spectators, and decided to
shorten some courses and add a third race. The Junior
Dinghy Sailing will be held on the Saturday, and
Sunday will be for prize giving, relaxation, family and
fun. The main attraction for families is the fun Pirates'
Trail, which takes place on the Saturday and Sunday.
One significant change is the registration fee only
US$50 per vessel.
If you missed the South Grenada Sailing Regatta last
year, take the opportunity to find out what all the buzz
is about!
For more information see ad on page 20.

USVI's Peil and Barnes Selected for Singapore
The Virgin Islands Olympic Committee (VIOC) select-
ed William "Will" Peil, a triathlete and 11th grader at
Country Day School on St. Croix, and Nikole "Nikki"
Barnes, a sailor and 10th grader at Antilles School on
St. Thomas, to attend the first Singapore 2010
Friendship Camp.

Accomplished dinghy sailor Nikki Barnes of St.
Thomas was chosen by the Virgin Islands Olympic
Committee to attend a special event of the Singapore
2010 Youth Olympic Games
The Camp took place from December 8th to 12,
2009 and was organized by Singapore's Ministry of
Education in partnership with the Singapore Sports
School and the Singapore Youth Olympic Games
Organizing Committee. It is a special event of the
Singapore 2010 Youth Olympic Games. The 15- to
17-year-old athletes from around the world who par-
ticipated in the Camp had the opportunity to partici-
pate in a wide variety of cultural and educational
activities in anticipation of the inaugural Youth
Olympic Games (YOG). The YOG will be held in
Singapore from August 14th to 26th.

Peil embarked on his sports career as a swimmer
with the St. Croix Dolphins Swim Team at age eight. He
became a triathlete in 2007, competing in his first tri-
athlon, the Try-A-Tri on St. Croix and finishing first in his
age division. Most recently, Peil placed first out of a
pack of 73 international triathletes in the 2009 St. Croix
Sprint Triathlon.
Barnes began sailing at age seven at the St. Thomas
Yacht Club. She competed in the Optimist dinghy until
age 15, where her accomplishments included second-
best Girl at the 2006 US Optimist National
Championships in Florida, Top North American Girl at
the 2007 Optimist North American Championships in
Mexico, and a placing of 35th out of 255 competitors
at the 2008 Optimist World Championships in Turkey.
Barnes is currently skippering the two-man International
420 dinghy with crew Agustina Barbuto from St. John.
The VIOC, founded in 1966, has sent a team to every
Central American and Caribbean Pan American and
Olympic competition since 1966, with the exception of
the boycotted 1980 Olympics in Moscow, winning its
first Olympic medal at the 1988 Seoul Olympics. The
VIOC represents 22 sports federations.
For more information
visit www. virginislandsolympics. corn
Third Annual Grenada Classic Yacht Regatta
Fred Thomas reports: The 2010 Grenada Classic
Yacht Regatta dates have been moved forward to tie
in with plans for a Virgin Islands to Grenada Challenge
Race for yachts coming to Grenada to race. The
main event will start on March 4th with the skippers'
briefing, yacht registration and cocktail party held at
Bel Air Plantation, St. David's Harbour, followed by
three days of racing.
Al courses will be off Grenada's southeastern coast;
the first race will start and finish from St David's Harbour.
On the Saturday the race will start off St. David's
Harbour and end at Le Phare Bleu Marina & Resort,
where boats can dock for the night. The final race will
be to True Blue Bay Resort, where boats can also dock.
Water taxds will be available for those at anchor.
After each day's racing, there will be time to enjoy
the famous Grenadian hospitality, with great parties,
food and drink, along with local and international
bands performing each night. The awards dinner and
party will be at True Blue Bay Resort.
Register early and get a break on fees.
For more information visit
www. grenadaclassicregatta. gd

Challenge the Grenada Round-The-Island Record!
Roger Spronk reports: At the 2009 Grenada Round-
the-Island Race (GRIR), the trimaran Horizon Region
Guadeloupe shattered the course record by more
than an hour, crossing the finish line with an elapsed
time of three hours, 54 minutes and two seconds. This
record poses an exciting challenge and the Grenada
South Coast Yacht Club has responded by creating a
prestigious prize for any vessel that breaks it, upping
the stakes for the 2010 GRIR!
Chartered by John Burnie for Claude Thelier, Horizon
Region Guadeloupe will be back in 2010 to defend
her title and attempt to improve their 2009 time. At
present, the yacht holds several other records, includ-
ing fastest times around St. Martin, St. Bart's,
Guadeloupe and Martinique.
In addition to top-quality sailing competition, the
2010 GRIR weekend from March 12th through 14th will
bring a wide range of entertainment to Grenada's
Grand Anse Beach. High points of the weekend will
include A Taste of Grenada food festival, the youth
sailing exhibition, and the ever-popular Crazy Craft
Bathtub Derby.
-Continued on next page


Doyle Sail Loft & Canvas Shop Raymarine Electronics Refrigeration Work
Mechanical & Electrical Repairs Fibreglass Repairs Laundry
Vehicle Rentals Showers Air Travel
Ice & Water Diesel & Propane Moorings
Island Tours Surftech Surf Shop Hotel Reservations
Quiksilver Surf Wear Restaurant & Bar Boutique
On-site Accommodation Wi-Fi / Internet Cafe Book Exchange

,, PO Box 39, Blue Lagoon, St Vincent, West Indies
ig Tel. 1-784-456-9526 / 9334 / 9144 Fax. 1-784-456-9238

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P.O. Box 851, St. Vincent & the Grenadines, CREDIT CARDS ACCEPTED
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Tel: (784) 458 7270 Fax: (784) 457 9917 HAPPY HOUR 5-6
E mail: wallanch@vincysurf.com





.. ... ... . page
I:--, :.::i:, .:..r. : ist Yacht Club and 2010 Race Committee are working to
continue the GRIR's tradition of promoting sailing excellence while also providing
events that celebrate Grenadian culture.
With bragging rights on the table, the GRIR promises to be one of the most excit-
ing sailing events of 2010!
For more information see ad on page 6.
Get Around Guadeloupe
The multi-legged 2010 Round Guadeloupe Race starts at the town of Gosier and
includes legs to Saint-Louis in Marie Galante, St. Francois or Port Louis, Deshaies and
Les Saintes before returning to Gosier. The Round Guadeloupe race offers nightly
parties at each port, with Zouk music and ti punch a great way to discover the
Guadeloupe archipelago and its people and culture.
This year's edition will be held from the 1st to the 5th of April. The new "high season"
dates are expected to attract more boats than the former May dates did. Forty
yachts raced around the island last year, and organizers foresee an increase in 2010.
For more information see ad on page 7
Bequia Regatta 2010: Big J/24 Class News
Russell Corrie reports: The Bequia Easter Regatta, April 1st through 5th, promises
to be another record-breaking event and the J/24 Class hopes to contribute in
significant measure. Last year's turnout of 13 J/24s might be exceeded by a
not.ntical 91 tams vvincn for the honor of h.incn crowned the first-ver "Sotithern

Caribbean J/24 Champion" in addition to being Bequia s overall J/24 winner.
Kudos to the Bequia Sailing Club's Regatta Organizing Committee for running a
well-organized event, so competitive and so much fun, that it took the Southern
Caribbean J/24 Council just one meeting to decide that it wanted this regatta to
be the home of its Big Event every year.
Since Bequia first offered the J/24s their own class at the event in 2005, the St.
Lucians have been the dominant force at this regatta, winning in 2005, 2006, 2007
and 2008. But Barbados boat Esperanza upset the apple cart in 2009, and 2010 will
see a line-up of eager contenders for this newly minted Southern Caribbean
Championship crown.
The Trinidadians, who in 2009 won the Barbados Open, the St. Lucia Open and
Grenada Sailing Festival, will have their eyes on this prestigious accolade. The
Bajans too as defending Bequia champions, with the largest fleet in the region
and a recent taste of the highest level of competition from the 2009 World
Championships have every intention of taking home the goodies. Grenadian
boat Die Hard, which took honors at the South Grenada Regatta and third overall
spot in Bequia in 2009, will be looking for their first big overseas victory, while the
Lucians, who virtually owned this class for so long, and who, it is rumored, expect
legendary Mike Green to return to Bequia in 2010, will be out for revenge. Last but
not least, dark horses St. Vincent and Dominica, who have just started their own
fleets, will be crewed by some experienced sailors as well.
With the J/24s joining four other highly competitive classes in Bequia, this is one
regatta that is definitely not to be missed.
For more information visit www.begos.com/easterregatta
Too Much Fun!
Sailboat racing in the Caribbean is booming and we've got more Regatta News
than we can publish this month! See next month's Compass for lots more regatta
results and details of upcoming events.

are Toucarie Bay, which has little known reefs for diving, and Capuchin, another
historical site and the start of the picturesque Capuchin Penville hiking trail. The
road back to Portsmouth from Penville, an agricultural Caribbean village with sweep
.ing views towards Marie Galante, takes you through an active volcano crater with
bubbling sulphur springs. The French islands are never far from view in this part of
: the island.
I Portsmouth's southern border is the Indian River. Locals offer boat rides up the
beautiful mangrove framed river to 1i .... I .. the end serving Kubuli, the local
beer, and its version of rum punch 1.,111,, i, south is Picard, home to Ross
University medical school. For those ..... .11 ... ... youcanfind
I i I.nridsmoothie- I 1 ..1 .1 I I..... ,aswellasa
I I the several supermarkets. The area's hotels are also most
ly located in this area, along the beach.
If, after those several packed days, you get bored, you can always rent a car and
venture farther afield. To the south is the Syndicate Trail where you can see the
Syndicate waterfall and hope to catch a glimpse of the indigenous and rare Sisserrou
(Amazona imperalis) and Jacquot (Amazona arausiaca) parrots. Heading east you
.can cross the Kalinago territory, owned by the "Carib Indians", the Kalinago people.
... .. ..." They have a model village showcasing their history and lifestyle.
4 Portsmouth, often unjustly overlooked, offers a mix of an authentic Caribbean
experience along with all the pleasure and comforts one wants to find on vacation.
There are several clubs offering nightlife mid week and on weekends as well as some
authentic dining experiences. And did I mention the best "cookies and cream" ice
cream I've ever had, to be found at Burrough Square?
Dominica is probably easier to access by boat than by air and Portsmouth offers
a perfect place to drop anchor, refuel, restock and enjoy the best of what the
Caribbean has to offer. Add to that the uniqueness of Dominica's natural wonders
and culture and you have an unmissable stop on your Caribbean excursion.
by Ella Rychlewski

Most people will tell you that Portsmouth's claim to fame is being the island of
Dominica's second largest city. So start most of the travel descriptions... only to
end a few lines later. However, this is to do this social melting pot and natural jewel
an injustice.
Portsmouth was briefly the capital of Dominica before the capital was relocated to
Roseau. The topography of the area, marshes and volcanic elevations, did not allow
for expansion. Now the bustling center of the Northern District, Portsmouth town is
located on the shore of a natural harbor, Prince Rupert Bay, which was a port of call
for Columbus in 1504 and today attracts yachts, ferries and cruise ships.
Most tourists and some cruisers head straight for Roseau and overlook the north
rich in history, culture, food and natural beauty. Portsmouth is an ideal base to
discover a different part of Dominica.
Planned on a grid system, the town of Portsmouth is centered on Bay Street and
Burrough Square. Its charm lies in the fact that it is not touristy; it is a working town
where Dominicans from the area come to do to business and shop. The area's only
hospital and fire station are also in Portsmouth. Locals come to town to run their
errands and walk down the street hailing each other, exchanging greetings.
Exuberant laughing, expansive gestures, animated arguments the people make
this place come alive.
In town, you can find most necessities in Joe's and Best Buy supermarkets as well
as in a few smaller food shops. On market days (Fridays and Saturdays), the market
provides a variety of fresh fruit and vegetables, as well as meat and fish. Along the
main street you will also find a few clothing stores, a couple of internet cafes and
most of the snackettes. These are small shacks where you can purchase snack food
throughout the day: fried chicken, bakes and sandwiches, as well as Creole plates Top left:
at lunchtime. The Creole plate is the staple diet of Dominica and includes meat or Purple Turtle Beach
fish, vegetables, beans and at least two types of carbs (e.g. rice, spaghetti, "fig" pie,
macaroni and cheese or potato salad). These are ideal places to rest, have lunch Above: The Cabrits, seen
and to watch and listen to Dominicans, many of whom will stop in for lunch. Don't from Michael Douglas
forget your local juice; there is nothing better, after all, than fresh juice (orange, Boulevard
grapefruit, tamarind, guava and the list goes on) made with fruit picked from a tree
that same morning. Right: The mouth of the
Portsmouth has the o r- Df offering a wide variety of activities within close Indian River
range. To the north, I I .,,,II Purple Turtle Beach is just outside Portsmouth, atPortsmouth's
as are several other beaches. Most yachts anchor off this beach or pick up a mooring southern edge
there. The cruise ship berth is located in nearby Cabrits National Park, which has
many short trails to explore as well as Fort Shirley, an 18th century British garrison
that is being reconstructed. Further up that side of the island, still heading north,





.. -IT-TI -- I1 i' I ,''_ I I -Ill: l _', I

Despite a slightly negative write up in Doyle's about
the trip from Trinidad down to Guyana, the two boats
Shad spent a pleasant time getting there from
Chaguaramas, stopping off in Scotland Bay, La Vache
Bay and Grande Riviere before crossing to Charlotteville,
Tobago. A week disappeared in swimming, walks and
making a few repairs, and then we set off for Guyana,
UT Hcompleting the i : to Roeden Rust in three days
y 0and six hours. able to sail during the hours
of darkness and motorsail during daylight; it seemed
as though the wind veered as the sun came up and
backed as it set. The sea v ,- .,1.11 the way down
with only the occasional ,,, I listurb things.
The much talked about northwesterly current put in
an occasional appearance, but never seemed to be
more than a knot or so against us. All in all it was
quite a pleasant trip. Maybe we were just lucky.
For those who just love the mad social whirl of
Chaguaramas, you'll hate Guyana. I mean, I think
mine was only the fourth boat this year to go up the
Essequibo River. The anchorages were uncrowded, if
not actually deserted, and there wasn't a potluck,
jump up or dominoes afternoon to be seen!
The waypoints shown in Doyle's guide are more
than adequate to enter the Essequibo and continue
up to the town of Bartica, however on my electronic
chart system (Navionics) and on Moonshiner's system
the boats were sometimes shown as being onshore
and the tracks between some waypoints were shown
as crossing the land. Working on the principle that it
would be sensible to "stick to the wet stuff', a certain
amount of interpretation was required, but anybody
with an ounce of common sense should be able to
stay out of trouble.
Troutbridge has a saltwater draught of about 1.2
metres and had no trouble; Moonsfhiner with a saltwa
ter draught of 2.3 metres touched the bottom a couple
of times taking the flood up to Bartica, but no harm
was done.
-Continued on next page

I became aware of a voice shouting, "Troutbridge!
Hello, Troutbridge!"
I became more awake and thought that it must be the
Guyanese C-. t: 1 hailing. We were anchored off are abe
Roeden Ru, I 11, yellow flag, .rin. -rived from Jim (right) ona
Charlotteville, Tobago, the previous ..... October side trip to
2nd, 2009. Venturing on deck, I found the cheerful face Kaieteur Ftls
of Kit Nascimento grinning up from his speedboat. "We're Keteur Falls
on our way up to our place at Hurakabra. Give me a call
when you are 15 minutes out of Bartica and I'll arrange
.... ... i....... m e out to you.
I irted during thewin
.... i. 1 J .i. i. tnnel
island of Guernsey in Troutbrki, ... ..1.. 385
retirement home. I'd purchased Chris Doyle's Cruising
Guide to 7rinidad and Tobago, plus Barbados and
Guyana and star I i .... . ,i i ,an alterna
tive to four and i .. ..... ... i ..... I I It appeared
that there might be. So, here I was with an Australian
couple aboard, Pam and Jim, whose boat was on the
hard in Trinidad, not to mention crewmate Cadey, and
another boat, Moonsfhiner, waiting for the tide to con
tinue up the Essequibo River to the town of Bartica
where Customs an i ........, ..... ,d us. It was
Doyle's guide that , I ,- ,, I -, to Kit. ,

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-Continued from previous page
It's worth noting that there are virtually no buoys in
the Essequibo river, a local source of information tell-
ing us that there was no money in the kitty to main-
tain them and there weren't many visiting ships or
boats to warrant making any provision to maintain
those that were still in place.
Approaching Bartica, I called Kit (592 455-3200) and
he was as good as his word, sending Dominic (Dom),

the manager of his resort, to meet us in Bartica. Dom
waited until we were safely anchored and then ferried
the officials out to us. They were both very pleasant
and the fee was US$12.50. Everybody on the yachts
was given one month in country, but I suspected that
we could have b i ,. .i [asked for it. This took
place on a Sati, i .1 .... at about 1700 hours,
and there was no extra charge for working those hours
or for coming out to the boat. The Immigration depart
ment is located in the police station at Bartica and the
I........ .- ,.. officer will walk you round to Customs.
11. i i checking out is also US$12.50 and I'm
pretty certain this is the only place I've visited so far
where the officers shook hands and hoped that you've
had a pleasant stay!
On the Sunday, we visited Hurakabra resort for lunch
and a chat with Kit. The standard 1.,. - )rts on
the river seems to be US$15 per I' i i i, lunch
or dinner and there was a: .. .1 i i. r r ... i '
pick us up and take us ba i I ...... -1 .
In any case, Kit had been very helpful in his e-mails
and had -. 1- 1- -1. for sending Dom to assist with
officialdo... 11 the least we could do was to
patronize his resort. Other boats might have to pay for
this service, or Kit may continue to send Dom to help
with clearing in; either way, he and Gem (his charming
wife) are running a business.
While at anchor off Bartica (incidentally, I suggest
you anchor a little further off the town than shown in
Doyle's, to remain clear of the barge traffic), we were
visited by the irrepressible Joyce Davis, the lady who
owns the yacht Mood Indigo. She and her late husband,
David, had been famous among cruisers as musicians

in Trinidad. They built a house on the Essequibo a few
years ago and Joyce seems to be happy for boats to
anchor near Mood Indigo, but please remember that
hers is a private home, not a resort. She invited us to
come to her place and drop anchor, which we did, and
we invited her out to the boats for sundowners. The
following evening she reciprocated, showing us around
the grounds of her home. While there, we encountered
the third yacht in the river, Erasmus, a New Zealand
boat, and the following
day came across another
boat, Orchid.
Gem will undertake
organizing tours for vis-
iting cruisers and, with
hindsight, it might have
been better to have used
her services. There
appear to be no adver
rising regulations in
Guyana and tour com-
panies seem to be in the
habit of offering tours at
attractive rates then,
when you book, these

Left: A riverside scene
at Bartica

Right: We had a visitor, en
route to Trinidad

rates are not available. Fairly typical (actual) rates
seem to be around US$250 for a return :I ., I ... I
guided tour at the Kaieteur Falls and around I 1 .
for a five- I ...f...m Bi I trip into the interior.
Again, a I I ,,,, 1 ople are very friendly
and willing to please but don't expect the level of
equipment or comfort that you would expect "back
home". As a retired airline pilot I was content with the
local airline we used to fly to the Falls; others who went
on the overland tour were not so lucky and had a road
accident. The driver had no first aid training and there
was no first aid kit in the fourwheel drive vehicle and
medical help was a few hours' drive away. So, if taking
a land tour, have a look over the vehicle first and con
sider taking your own first aid kit. That said, appar
ently the trip was very worthwhile. I would regard any
river or road trip as an expedition rather than a tour
and equip accordingly.
River transport is well organized on the Essequibo. A
one way trip from Bartica to Parika (the nearest port
on the Essequibo to Georgetown, the capital) costs
approximately US$10 per person. Although the boats
appear fairly crude, they are subject to regular govern
ment inspection an .1 'll 'n.-r are required to
wear flotation vests ,- ,11 i i i1 , le takes just over
an hour and can be great fun, if a little wet at times.
The river itself is a chocolate brown colour and when
swimming, visibility is close to zero. The current can
run at up to three knots, so a safety line off the back
of the boat is highly recommended. There appear to be
no "nasties" in the river, although in some places pira
nhas are present (but the locals claim are never a
problem), as is the occasional anaconda. The latter

seem to stay in swamp areas and have never been
known to be a problem to swimmers.
The locals all drink bottled water, but my watermaker
just loved the fresh water and delivered at least twice its
rated flow. Nobody had any problems drinking the
watermaker i 1-it 1i- l-.. tle 19 days we were there.
We ancho i I I i .. .. Resort for a couple of
days. They were very welcoming, although virtually
closed during the week.
Navigating up and down the river requires some care
and judicious use of the ebb and flood, but most of the
rocks seem to be accurately charted. Those with shal-
low draught boats could have a lot of fun gunk-holing.
To summarize, the trip down was easier than we
were led to believe, and the trip back to Trinidad was
an off wind pleasure with at least one knot of favour-
able current most of the time. It's worth noting that

the current closer to the coast is much stronger than
further off shore. The difference in tracks down and up
was about ten nautical miles, but there was a marked
difference in the -1. ...11 of the current. The return
trip took two and ..11 lays.
The Guyanese are a friendly people and although
there is some crime on the river, we never felt threat
ened. Bartica has a frontier town feel to it, but again
feels safe, certainly in the early evening. Maybe stag-
gering around at 3:OOAM wouldn't be a great idea, but
that's true of a lot of places. We were warned that
c'-r t- t wasn'tt safe at night; indeed a group walk-
:,. I I .- ...- a restaurant to their hotel was told by a
local lady that it would be better to hail a taxi, but
nobody had a bad experience.
Organized tours are not particularly cheap and the
local produce, while of reasonable quality, is not cheap
either. Petrol (gas, for the Cousins) is around US$1 per
litre. Diesel prices I'm not sure of, but it is available for
visiting yachts. There are local mechanic- ,ii,, i
work on boats. They are able to improvise, '1 "
parts are not available "in country" it may take up to
ten days to import them. Kit was willing to help with
this process and may or may not charge for this.
Guyana is a beautiful, fascinating country, well worth
making the effort to visit. Anybody used to one-day
inter-island passages followed by tying up in a marina
may feel a little daunted by the prospect of the trip, but
the reality (at least on this trip) was that with a little
care, i 1 ......... .. i i . . ... 11. 1. . ... I i n even t-
fu l. I ..I I I I ...... .. I . .. ,. ,
from Trinidad and spending some time there I I
heading south.



xan Higher productivity by 20 to 30% compared to a 12 V solar panel due to 24 V panels
< installed with the mppt Xantrex regulator.
Improved charging time: works with less sun.
* Improved efficiency: the 3 stage regulator and 2 programmable outputs (gel or acid) do not
*** lower the batteries' tension.
Increased gain at cable level: losses are divided by two.
CP-Solar Reinforced efficiency as two sets of batteries can be loaded at one time.

Afte Sal ae e a

M -iiT '

i "SO

ALLN ASHORE. ) e ..,




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by Jo-Anne Nina Sewlal
Montserrat was once a bustling island and its capital city, Plymouth, was the com-
mercial centre of the Eastern Caribbean. To those who last visited prior to 1995,
Montserrat is now totally different. Volcanic eruptions in that year covered Plymouth
with pyroclastic flows and ash. P 1 ..-- part of the population left the island.
With approximately two-thirds i 'I. island declared unsafe and placed in an
exclusion zone, the 4,000 remaining inhabitants have basically had to start over. But
this should not be seen as a drawback but rather the opportunity to experience a
re-emerging island culture. Currently, the settlement of Brades serves as the main
town ... i 1 . - 11. ...... offices while construction of the new capital city at
Little ".. .. ri nd proceeds. When I visited Montserrat recently the
new cultural centre and public market were already completed.
This island is commonly called the "Emerald Isle of the Caribbean". This name not
only refers to the lush green vegetation present on the island, even in some of the
areas that experienced volcanic activity, but also refers to its strong Irish heritage.
.,,., ,,i .i i i 'ie Amerindians, in 1632 English and Irish Catholic settlers
SI .... tts, as they were not welcome in the other British colonies
..... The first evidence of Irish influence that greets visitors is
the shamrock stamp in their passport. The national flag also has the legendary Irish
figure of Erin with a harp alongside the Union Jack (as Montserrat is still a British
colony). It is also the only place in the world outside of Ireland where St. Patrick's
Day is a public holiday.
My research on the spider biodiversity in the Eastern Caribbean has taken me to
many wonderful and diverse islands. These included the Emerald Isle of the
Caribbean, which was my home for two weeks as I conducted my research. I was
assisted by one of my friends who had visited the island before. What struck us as
a great thing about Montserrat is that it is small enough to do practically everything
listed in the tourist guide, and we 1. ,,.1 i, .I 1 'e would try. So we got the guide
and a map of the island, and heade ....
Our first stop was at Jack Boy Hill on the northeast side of the island. It has well-
mait.i-. 1 t r-- Fi-i"c area ar' 1 "'i "ine platform from which you can see
the i -1, i 1 1 i .... i Airport .. i ... i the surrounding villages. There is
a telescope, which offers a better view of the area and the Soufriere Hills volcano. On
a clear day you can make out the outline of the spiky plugs that cap the opening to
the volcano.
Sl ., ;I an even better view of the volcano from the Montserrat Volcano
S ., i The sole purpose of this facility is to monitor the volcano and warn
I .. i i , i I.,,. i his facility is open to the public Monday to Thursday.
S ,, you can view a documentary on life before the erup-
tion and the stages of the volcano's evolution. It is shown at quarter past every hour
from 10:15AM to 3:15PM. There are also many informative posters illustrating volcanic
activity. In the recent past, visitors were allowed to talk to the scientists and go in their
work area and see the seismic recording equipment. However, this started to interfere
with the operations of the MVO and was discontinued.
Here we learned that Montserrat is no stranger to natural disasters 95 percent
of the island was damaged by Hurricane Hugo in 1989. In 1992 a series of earth-
quake- ...-........ until July 1995 was the first sign that the volcano, which had
been I .......i recorded history, was active again. Magma first appeared in
November 1995. 'ihi 'i. t 1997, pyroclastic flows destroyed central Plymouth and
extended out to I. i ... 11. Tar River Valley. The heavy rains that followed washed
down the ash to form a thick mud that buried the capital city even deeper. (For more
information on the history of the volcanic eruptions visit www.montserratvolcanoob-
Many people may have the idea that after the eruption Montserrat became a waste-
land. But the truth is that the lush, undeveloped northern part of the island was
untouched by the volcano. This island has a lot to offer the nature lover, including
a network of trails. The trails are of vary' 1- 1 --i -f difficulty but all allow you to
see the wide range of flora and fauna on I. .-1 ... I 1 .. are a novice, try the Oriole
Trail. More experienced hikers would want to try more i. ..11 ....11 trails like those
up Jack Boy Hill leading to Baker's Hill and then on to -i i
If you want to passively support the biodiversity of the island, visit the National
Trust in Salem where you can purchase books, T shirts and other nature-inspired
items. They also have a beautiful garden with a collection of ornamental, fruiting and
medicinal plants. Plans are in the works to turn this garden into a national botanical
garden. The same building that houses the National Trust also houses the National
Philatelic Bureau, which has something for both the nature and stamp lover, since
many stamps feature pictures of the local and endemic wildlife such as the
Montserrat Oriole and the Rock Iguana.
There are mar ....1..' i ... 1 -I .urants. My favourite was Bingo Night
(Thursdays from '" I .1 I ... ... J at The Lime Sports Bar in Brades. Cards
can be purchased for EC$5 each and reused for the duration of the :.. 1. ... -times
P.... ..i.t has a theme; for instance, the first time we went it was i ........ -T
.I ... the first person to get the numbers in the shape of each of the .
S...... ... Hugo" won a -.n. For example, for the first game the winner was the
first to spell "H". At the .. i i this you return the plastic bingo cards and can par-
ticipate in the jackpot game played on paper tickets for about EC$10 each. If there
is no winner the jackpot rolls over.
After the first week we decided that we had seen almost everything on land so we
looked into taking a boat tour around the island. We turned to the services of Troy
and Melody who operate The Green Monkey Dive Shop at Little Bay. The tour took
approximately two-and-a-half hours. Along the way we saw how the wave action
eroded the sides of the island to form sheer cliffs.
-Continued on next page

-Continued from previous page
We passed Foxes Bay, which is the bay before you reach Plymouth as you head
south and is off limits to the public. Approaching Plymouth we saw many large
homes and condominiums occupying the hillsides between Foxes Bay and Plymouth,
all of which now stand abandoned. The landscape reminded me of present-day
Chaguaramas in Trinidad.
Then we came to Plymouth, or "Modern Day Pompeii" as it is commonly referred
to. There was not much to see, as heavy rains washed ash downhill after the erup-
tions, and when it hardened it became as hard as cement. We saw buildings, but
kept in mind that what we were seeing was just the top floors of any buildings more
than two storeys tall everything below this level is buried in rock-hard ash. It is
an eerie sight: the entire city looks frozen in ..... -1 .. i,. ... -.1 .. i -1.... ,, i the
bustling commercial hub it once was. And 111. ...I ... i. .. I I i i .- I -tine
and untouched, it is slowly deteriorating.
The large petroleum tanks near the coast enter the water as they come loose from
the mud. This poses a hazard for boat propellers, so that the area has to be navi-
I 1 with caution.
were lucky that day as it was quite clear so we had a great view of the volcano
just below the plug. Troy said it was the clearest they had seen in months. But you
cannot stay in the area too long because of the constant presence of sulphuric gas,
so we turned back and headed to Rendezvous Bay. This relatively small, isolated bay
is just past Little Bay as you head north. Its calm waters make it great for snorkel-
ling, which is what we did. The bay is accessible by land but it is a long hike that
becomes steep in some parts. We returned to Rendezvous Bay later in the week to
try our hand at kayaking. Again we enlisted the services of The Green Monkey to
rent kayaking equipment.

.s o n ..

Top: Much of Montserrat's former capital, Plymouth,
has been buried in volcanic debris
Above: Out of the ashes: the island's new cultural centre at Brades

If you are new to snorkelling as I was and you want to go to a more populated
beach, Woodlands beach is a good place to start. The crowd really gathers at around
3:00PM, but during the day it is quiet and it's great for an early morning swim. It is
one of the beaches where leatherback turtles nest. The island is also quite safe, so
you could camp on the beach and wait for the turtles to visit.
Some more adventurous persons might want to walk around in the old capital and
passes can be obtained from the local police only when they deem it safe to enter
the area. This is for your safety since heavy rains, especially during the wet season,
can bring down mudslides.
If you want to get a safer "up close and personal" view of the destruction caused by
the eruption of the Soufriere Hills volcano, visit Belham Valley on the safe side of the
border of the exclusion zone. This was one of the small valleys where the pyroclastic
flows came through, claiming 19 lives. Evidence that it was once a thriving commu-
nity is seen by the abandoned homes and businesses including a hotel, hair salon
and nightclub. Some electricity poles still stick up through the mud as silent indica-
tors of the location of streets and the buildings that once lined them. We went into
one of the abandoned condominiums during one of our explorations of the area.
During our visit we were fortunate to meet some :;..i -1,,,. -, i ,, -. of the island
who decided to stay after the eruptions, including i" i .,, i i ,, pycalla. Along
with all the physical destruction, some of the country's rich folklore was also
destroyed. Shirley told us of the legend of the mermaid of the pool at Chance's Peak.
If you were ab'- t- t1l-- hl-r -l-11 --mb, she would grant your wishes. This pond
is now buried ... i ... ... i i i i -hard ash.
Another colourful resident we had the great fortune to meet was Kevin West. He is
an avid photographer and the owner of Paradise Photo and Art Studio. He took many
of the photos of the eruption that are now featured on postcards from the island. He
told us how he set up his camera for hours, shooting rolls of film late into the : J 1'
He also told us of a time he had to take his equipment and literally run out i 1,
path of the volcanic flow after he had waited until the very last minute to get the
perfect shot.
We were also lucky to meet one of Montserrat's famous citizens, Alphonsus
Cassell, better known as the calypsonian "Arrow", at his store, Arrow's Manshop. His
S. i ilot Hot" is known worldwide.
i I left we took a drink of the pure spring water from Runaway Ghaut (pro-
nounced gut). Contrary to its name, it is said that if you drink from this you will visit
-nt.-.t .:1.- So, see -*-- -. Emerald Isle!
S, ."..' est way , island is either by yacht (yachts can currently
anchor only at Little Bay), or by flying from Antigua on WinAir (www.fly-winair.com)
or Fly Montserrat (wwwflymontserrrat.com). The ferry service between Antigua and
Montserrat is undergoing changes; for updates visit www.visitmontserrat.com

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A rewarding view of Tyrret Bay, Carriacou, from the peak of Chapeau Caree

If you look around while anchored in Tyrrel Bay you will see the very pretty hill line
to the north above the mangroves, now broken by a big new Italian house perched
on top. Look to the east and you will see Chapeau Caree, the tallest hill visible from
Tyrrel Bay. Standing 290 metres above sea level, it is the second highest hill on
Carriacou. The highest hill (High North) is only a metre taller, so if you really want
to feel you have been as high as you can get on Carriacou, carry a small stepladder
with you on this hike.
F-ui ,1 ,, i!. inuCaree is lovely, but itcan b 1, I .1 ... ...;.; -bestboth
for ...i ... i i ,-good light for the view over T i i i i .. i . i .. camera).
The hike takes about two to three hours round t1 .... i, i, i I ck. There
is an unmarked path of sorts, which is steep towards the top. It can be slippery on
mud when wet and on fallen leaves when dry.
From the main dock, turn left in the direction of LEsterre. Turn right on the first
side road, which is good and straight, with several houses on either side. Then take
the first left hand turn. This road bends around and climbs slowly into the hills. It
starts off paved and turns to dirt. For the most part you have a view on your left and
a hill on your right. The road follows upwards around this hill.
Continue till you come to a small junction straight ahead where the dirt road
divides in two. If you stand at this junction and look at the left hand road, you will
see a gap in the hedge into a field almost opposite where you are standing. (Long
version: turn left at the junction, walk a couple of feet and turn right through the
gap in the hedge.) Enter into the field.
Now the adventure begins. Walk up through the field, making friends with any
cows in the path, until you get to the field's top left hand corner, where a path goes
into a dense thicket with a small pond. This is a good resting spot; there are often
wading birds, grackles, pigeons and other birds that use this as the local watering

Above: Watering holes like this are 'L a r.h "
essential for livestock and wildlife -
on dry islands
Right: Trail map -.
hole. Plus, in the shade it is cool.
You can continue walking on either
side of the pond. If you take the right-
hand side you will come into a small I yrri
field that goes up to a ridge and you ,l.p
can see your destination way above. Go
to the top left of the field and get
through one of the small openings that lead into the next field.
If you go to the left of the pond you will already be here. Follow this field upwards.
It will bring you to an open ridge. The open part is quickly over and you need to find
the path that leads up along the ridge through the trees. Follow this path all the way
to the top. If you find yourself on either side of the ridge, you are straying from the
. 1 1 .... There is no trail-maintenance crew; you may have to scramble
Spi' i . und fallen trees.
The path is mainly in the woods, which give shade, except for one -I- -- here
you begin to get a good view. You emerge out of the trees at the very i i 11. hill.
The view of Tyrrel Bay is outstanding: the whole bay is laid out before you in minia-
ture like a brightly colored children's book illustration. You also get great views of
Sandy Island, Union Island, the town of Hillsborough, the islands to the south
between Carriacou and Grenada, and to the east.




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CU S m : CS


Where initials are given after an event listing (e.g. AYC),
see Key to Contacts at the end of this calendar

1 New Year's Day. Public holiday or "recovery day" in many places. Junkanoo parade
in Abaco, Bahamas
1 3 St. Croix Christmas Festival Parades. www.stxfestival.com
2 Public holiday in Cuba (Victory of Armed Forces Day), Haiti (Founding Fathers Day), St Kitts & Nevis
(Carnival Day), St. Lucia and Grenada (Second New Year's Day)
6 Three Kings Day. Public holiday in many places
6 World ARC 2010/11 starts in St. Lucia. www.worldcruising.com/worldarc2010
8 10 French Regional Marine Mammal Stranding Workshop, Guadeloupe. evastropic@wanadoo.fr
11 Eugenio Maria de Hostos Day. Public holiday in Puerto Rico
11 17 17th Annual Barbados Jazz Festival. www.barbadosjazzfestival.com
11 20 St. Barts Music Festival. www.stbartsmusicfestival.org
13 16 Carriacou Sailing Series. www.sailingcarriacou.com
17 Women's Cup Regatta, Martinique. Yacht Club de la Martinique. YCM
18 Martin Luther King Day. Public holiday in Puerto Rico and USVI
21 Errol Barrow Day; public holiday in Barbados. Our Lady of Altagracia; public holiday
in Dominican Republic
21 24 St. Maarten-St. Martin Classic Yacht Regatta. www.ClassicRegatta.com
22 St. Thomas USVI Blues Festival. http://stevesimonpresents.com
23 24 Around Antigua Race. AYC
23 24 Zion Cup Race, Guadeloupe. Centre Nautique de Basse Terre
24 28 41st Spice Island Billfish Tournament, Grenada. www.sibtgrenada.com
24 30 Jamaica Jazz & Blues Festival, Montego Bay. www.ailrjamaicajazzandblues.com
25 Duarte's Day; public holiday in Dominican Republic. G.F. Croe's Day;
public holiday in Aruba
27 30 Antigua Superyacht Cup. AYC
27 10 Feb 15th Annual Mustique Blues Festival. www.basilsbar.com
28 31 Bequia Music Fest. www.begos.com/bequiamusicfest
29 2 Feb Port Louis Grenada Sailing Festival. www.grenadasailingfestival.com
29 6 Feb 16th Guadeloupe International Film Festival.
www.fest21.com/en/festival/femi international cinemafestival of guadeloupe
30 31 Budget Marine Women's Caribbean Championships, St. Maarten. SMYC
30 6 Feb De Caribbean Regatta, BVI. www.myc.org

2 World Wetlands Day
4 7 Club Nautico de San Juan International Regatta, Puerto Rico.
www.nauticodesanjuan.com /sailingprogram/regatta int.htm
5 Pineapple Cup Montego Bay Race, Jamaica. www.montegobayrace.com
6 7 Digicel Workboat Regatta, Grenada. www.grenadasailingfestival.com
6 7 Gill St Maarten Keelboat Championships, SMYC
6 16 5th La Route du Carnival rally, Martinique to Trinidad. www.transcaraibes.com
7 Independence Day. Public holiday in Grenada
12 15 32nd Annual Sweethearts of the Caribbean and 28th Annual Classic Yacht Regatta, Tortola. WEYC
12 16 20th Semaine Nautique Schoelcher, Martinique. CNM
13 14 Budget Marine Valentines Regatta, Antigua. JHYC
13 14 Sentann Cup Race, Guadeloupe
13 15 Carnival Regatta, Martinique. CNN

14 Sunshine School Fundraising Auction, Bequia. www.bequiasunshineschool.org
15 16 Carnival Monday and Tuesday in most Dutch and French islands, Haiti, Puerto Rico,
Dominica, Carriacou, Trinidad & Tobago, Venezuela, and other places
15 Presidents' Day. Public holiday in Puerto Rico and USVI
17 Ash Wednesday. Public holiday in Cayman Islands and Jamaica
19 21 St. Croix Yacht Club Hospice Regatta. www.stcroixregatta.com
19 21 Tobago Carnival Regatta. www.sailweek.com
21 22 Around St. Lucia Race. SLYC
22 Independence Day. Public holiday in St. Lucia
22 23 Carnival in Dominica. Public holiday
22 26 RORC Caribbean 600 Offshore Race, Antigua. caribbean600.rorc.org
22 20 March Trinidad & Tobago Biennial Music Festival
26 28 South Grenada Regatta. www.southgrenadaregatta.com
27 Around St. Maarten-St. Martin Multihull Regatta. www.MultiHullRegatta.com
27 Independence Day. Public holiday in the Dominican Republic
27 28 Around Martinique Race. CNN

1 H. Lavity Stoutt Day. Public holiday in the BVI
1 5 BVI Kite Jam (kite boards). www.bvikitejam.com
2 Budget Marine Match Racing Cup, St. Maarten. SMYC
4- 7 30th St. Maarten Heineken Regatta. www.heinekenregatta.com
4 7 Grenada Classic Yacht Regatta. www.grenadaclassicregatta.com
5- 8 13th Annual Dark and Stormy Regatta, BVI. WEYC
5 10 Caribbean Arts & Crafts Festival, Tortola, BVI. www.caribbeanartisan.net
8 International Women's Day. Commonwealth Day; public holiday in some places
9 Baron Bliss Day; public holiday in Belize. Commonwealth Day;
public holiday in Trinidad & Tobago
11 14 Tobago International Game Fishing Tournament. http://tgft.com
12 14 8th Annual Grenada Round-the-Island Race. www.aroundgrenada.com
13 14 Banana's Cup Race, Martinique. YCM
13 14 Antigua Annual Laser Open, AYC
13 14 Gardel Trophy, Guadeloupe. Yacht Club Saint-Francois

14 National Heroes Day. Public holiday in St. Vincent & the Grenadines
15 20 7th Annual ClubSwan Caribbean Rendezvous, BVI
17 St. Patrick's Day; public holiday in Montserrat. Festival in St. Patrick's, Grenada
18 Flag Day. Public holiday in Aruba
19 22 13th Annual Tobago International Game Fishing Tournament
20 Sunshine School Annual Jumble Sale, Bequia.
22 Emancipation Day. Public holiday in Puerto Rico
25 28 St. Barths Bucket, www.bucketregattas.com
26 28 International Rolex Regatta, St. Thomas, USVI
29 4 April BVI Spring Regatta and Sailing Festival. www.bvispringregatta.org
30 Spiritual Baptist Liberation Day. Public holiday in Trinidad & Tobago
30 22 April Transcaraibes Rally, Guadeloupe to Cuba. www.transcaraibes.com

CLU S m : : CS

1 5 Round Guadeloupe Race. www.triskellcup.com
1 5 Bequia Easter Regatta. www.begos.com/easterregatta
2 Good Friday. Public holiday in many places
5 Easter Monday. Public holiday in many places
5 Buccoo Goat, Donkey and Crab Races at Mt. Pleasant, Tobago
6 Buccoo Goat, Donkey and Crab Races at Buccoo, Tobago
6 11 Les Voiles de Saint Barth. www.lesvoilesdesaintbarth.com
15 20 Antigua Classic Yacht Regatta. www.antiguaclassics.com
22 International Earth Day
23 Guadeloupe to Antigua Race. www.sailingweek.com
24 30 Antigua Sailing Week. www.sailingweek.com
24 7 May Fireball World Championships, Barbados. www.fireball worlds.com
28 FULL MOON. National Heroes' Day; public holiday in Barbados
30 Queen's Day. Public holiday in Dutch islands

1 Labour Day. Public Holiday in Anguilla, Barbados, Belize, Grenada, Montserrat and St. Lucia
1 3 St. Lucia J/24 Open Championship. SLYC
2 The Atlantic Cup, Tortola to Bermuda, starts. www.carinl500.com
6 ARC Europe Rally, Tortola to Europe, starts.
6 9 St. Lucia Jazz Festival. www.stluciajazz.org
7 9 Anguilla Sailing Festival. www.anguillaregatta.com
13 Combat de Coques, Martinique. CNM
13 Ascension Day. Public holiday in some French and Dutch islands
13 16 Mount Gay Regatta, Barbados. www.sailbarbados.com
15 16 Captain Oliver's Regatta, St. Maarten. www.coyc-sxm.com
21 23 Puerto Rico Vela Cup. www.puertoricovelacup.com
22 24 Green Island Weekend, Antigua. AYC
24 Whit Monday. Public holiday in many places
24 29 Ernest Hemingway International Billfish Tournament, Cuba. 3 iT. h, .. j ...i mi t.cu
24 31 BVI Music Festival. www.bvimusicfest.net
28 30 Foxy's Wooden Boat Regatta, Jost Van Dyke, BVI. WEYC
29 30 Martinique-to-St. Lucia Race. YCM
30 Anguilla Day; Public holiday in Anguilla. Indian Arrival Day; Public holiday in Trinidad & Tobago
TBA Canouan Regatta. Canouan Sailing Club, tel (784) 458-8197

3 Corpus Christi. Public holiday in many places
5 World Environment Day
5 6 Caribbean Laser Championship, St. Maarten. SMYC
12 St. Lucia Optimist and Laser Championship. SLYC
12 Sovereign's Birthday. Public holiday in the BVI
13 20 20th Annual Jamaica Ocho Rios International Jazz Festival. www.jamaicaculture.org/jazz
19 Scotiabank International Optimist Regatta, St Thomas, USVI
19 Labour Day. Public holiday in Trinidad & Tobago
19 20 The Saintes Regatta. CSBF
20 26 Errol Flynn Days, Jamaica. www.errolflynnmarina.com
21 Summer Solstice
21 Fete de la Musique, Martinique
24 26 14th Annual St. Kitts Music Festival. www.nevisblog.com/st-kitts-music-festival
26 4 July HIHO Windsurfing Week, BVI. www.go-hiho.com
29 Fisherman's Birthday (St. Peter's Day). Boat and dinghy races in many fishing communities

1 VC Bird Day; public holiday in Antigua & Barbuda
2 3 19th Annual Firecracker 500 Race, BVI. WEYC
4 Independence Day (USA). Public holiday in Puerto Rico and USVI. Carnival in St. John, USVI
5 6 St. Vincent Carnival. http://discoversvg.com
9 11 Chief Minister's Cup Youth Regatta, Tortola. RBVIYC
14 Bastille Day. Public holiday in French West Indies
16 1 Aug Tobago Heritage Festival
20 21 St. Lucia Carnival. www.stlucia.org
22 25 USVI Lifestyle Festival, St. Thomas. www.usvimf.com
25 2 Aug Carriacou Regatta Festival. www.carriacouregatta.com
28 Carriacou Children's Education Fund Welcome Barbecue. boatmillie@aol.com
30 Carriacou Children's Education Fund Annual Auction. boatmillie@aol.com

1 Emancipation Day. Public holiday in Barbados, Grenada, Guyana, Jamaica, St. Lucia,
St. Vincent & the Grenadines, and Trinidad & Tobago
1 Emancipation Day Regatta, St. Lucia. SLYC
7 Marigot Bay Race Day, St. Lucia. SLYC
9 10 Grenada Carnival. www.spicemasgrenada.com
16 22 57th San Juan International Billfish Tournament, Puerto Rico. www.sanjuaninternational.com
28 Great Race (powerboats) from Chaguaramas, Trinidad to Store Bay, Tobago
TBA Tour des Yoles Rondes, Martinique. www.tourdesyoles.com/www.yoles-rondes.org

6 Labor Day. Public holiday in USVI

3 9 43rd Bonaire International Sailing Regatta. www.bonaireregatta.org
29 31 13th Annual Foxy's Cat Fight, Jost Van Dyke, BVI. WEYC
29 31 World Creole Music Festival, Dominica. www.wcmfdominica.com
TBA Triskell Cup Regatta, Guadeloupe. www.triskellcup.com

1 All Saints' Day. Public holiday in many places
3 21st Annual Caribbean 1500, Virginia to Tortola, starts. www.caribl500.com
3 Bahamas Cruising Rally, Virginia to Abacos, starts. www.caribl500.com
6 St. Maarten Optimist Championship.
12 14 3rd Heineken Regatta Curacao. www.heinekenregattacuracao.com
12 20 20th Aruba Heineken Catamaran Regatta. www.arubaregatta.com
21 25th Atlantic Rally for Cruisers, Canaries to St. Lucia, starts.
26 28 Course de 1'Alliance Regatta, St. Maarten/St. Barths/Anguilla. www.coursedelalliance.com

3 5 Gustav Wilmerding 20th Annual Memorial Challenge, BVI. WEYC
6 11 48th Antigua Charter Yacht Show. www.antiguayachtshow.com
12 21 Havana International Jazz Festival, Cuba. www.jazzcuba.com
21 Winter Solstice
25 Christmas Day. Public holiday in many places
26 Boxing Day. Public holiday in many places
31 Nelson's Pursuit Race, Antigua. AYC


* All information was correct to the best of our knowledge at the time this calendar went to press but plans
change, so please contact event organizers directly for confirmation! Also, a public holiday may be celebrated
on the following Monday if a fixed holiday falls on a Saturday or Sunday.
* Many thanks to all who made their schedules of events available for this calendar. This is by no means a
complete list. Stay tuned to Compass each month for news of more events as the year progresses.
* If you organize a sailing event not listed here that you'd like to see in our monthly calendars, please send
information two months before the event date(s) to -ii ,. i.i ...... .. .... .1

AYC: Antigua Yacht Club, tel/fax (268) 460-1799, yachtclub@candw.ag, www.antiguayachtclub.com
CNIH: Club Nautico Intl. Hemingway (Hemingway International Yacht Club, Cuba), tel (+1 53) 724-2718,
3 1- !1, i. '- ... 1 ,rt.c u
CNN: Club Nautique Le Neptune, Martinique, tel (596) 51 73 24, fax (596) 51 73 70, info@clubnautiquele-
neptune.com, www. clubnautiqueleneptune. com
CNM: Club Nautique du Marin (Martinique). tel (596) 74 92 48, fax (596) 74 62 02, club-nautique-du-marin@
wanadoo. fr, www. clubnautiquedumarin. com
CSA: Caribbean Sailing Association. www.caribbeanracing.com
GYC: Grenada Yacht Club, tel (473) 440-6826 or 440-3050, gyc@spiceisle.com, www.grenadayachtclub.
JHYC: Jolly Harbour Yacht Club, Antigua. tel (268) 770-6172, miramarsailing@hotmail.com, www.jhycan-
RBVIYC: Royal British Virgin Islands Yacht Club, tel (284) 494-3286, rbviyc@rbviyc.com, www.rbviyc.net
SBYC: St. Barth Yacht Club, tel (590) 27 70 41, sbyc@wanadoo.fr
SCYC: St. Croix Yacht Club, tel (340) 773-9531, fax 778-8350, -i. !....,. ...,i ..... www.stcroixyc.com
SLYC: St. Lucia Yacht Club, tel (758) 452-8350, secretary@stluciayachtclub.com, www.stluciayachtclub.
SMYC: St. Maarten Yacht Club, tel (599) 544-2075, fax (599) 544-2091, info@smyc.com, www.smyc.com
STYC: St. Thomas Yacht Club, tel (340) 775-6320, fax (340) 775-3600, info@styc.net, www.styc.net
SYR: Societe des Yoles Rondes (Martinique), tel (0596) 61 48 50, fax (0596) 72 02 53, yolesrondes@wanadoo.
fr, www.yoles-rondes.org
TTSA: Trinidad & Tobago Sailing Assn., tel (868) 634-4210/4519, fax (868) 634-4376, manager@ttsailing.
org, www.ttsailing.org
WEYC: West End Yacht Club, Tortola, BVI, tel (284) 496-8685, mvh@surfbvi.com, www.weyc.net
YCM: Yacht Club de la Martinique, tel (596) 63 26 76, fax (596) 63 94 48, ycmq@wanadoo.fr

__ __ __ __ __ __ __ ~2




- - - -




Part One:

As I've often mentioned, articles and letters in yachting magazines frequently com-
plain that the harbors in the Eastern Caribbean are so full of mooring balls and other
yachts that there is no room to anchor. But I'd like to let newly arrived sailors know
that if you are willing to get off the beaten track and forgo bars and restaurants,
there are probably a hundred anchorages where you and a buddy boat or two can
enjoy anchoring in solitude.
All the anchorages mentioned are well described in various guides, so I won't give
sailing directions. Admittedly, many require eyeball navigation with someone stand-
ing on top of the bow pulpit. A few will require someone on the lower spreaders. (On
the modern yacht with internal halyards, climbing aloft is much more difficult than
in the old days when halyards were external. Fixing steps on the mast to enable a
crewmember to easily reach the lower spreaders is a worthwhile alteration.)
Let's start from the south.
Tobago has a dozen uncrowded .n-h-rI:-- Those on the north coast should not
be used in the winter due to the .1 .. i the northwest groundswell, but come
summer they are fine. (If a hurricane approaches, head south to Trinidad or west to
Golfo de Cariaco.)
Grenada has an abundance of under-used anchorages. On the southwest coast,
boats that draw six feet or less can work their way well into Morne Rouge Bay.
Deeper draft boats can drop their anchors on the edge of the shelf and back off.
Grenada's south coast has numerous anchorages; one can almost always find an
uncrowded one. i I I... .. .n. up the east coast, i.. I ... .. the back
of Imray lolaire i. i i i .. Lr Cove, Requin ancoi i i. i. 'i anchor
ages where you will find no habitation and no other boats.
Grenville's anchorage is not that hard to enter, sheltered from the sea but not the
wind, and a wonderful base from which to do shoreside explorations of the northeast
corner of Grenada. When leaving, mind your p's and q's. It's possible to sail out but
advisable to motor-sail.

Frigate Island is a seldom-used anchorage

that's one of my favorites

Uninhabited Sandy Island, on the northeast corner of Grenada, is another nice
anchorage seldom visited by yachts.
Enroute to Carriacou, in summer months when it is n-t -],,l"in h-rL, a daytime
anchorage might be found in the lee of Les Tantes, -. i.- .... .. sometimes
camp. Corn Store Bay on the northwest corner of Isle de Ronde is a good anchorage
as long as the groundswell is not running.
Instead of crowded Tyrrel Bay, head for the southeast corner of Carriacou. In the
summer when it is not blowing too hard try the 1n-I-r..- 1-:hin-1 r"n Tree Rock.
There is room for one boat onl,' 1 li vingo. ', II ,,, I .. I To the east
of One Tree Rock, anchorage ,, i .... i west of Sandy Island and northwest of
Saline Island.
S1. 1 .1 1 ...- ..I ,, 1 .,, Pint, the entrance to Grand Bay where you
f.. I. i i, i , ... I i -;- tight behind the reef. Continue
iii. i i i i I. I .... I or more should proceed dead
slow or send the dinghy ahead to check depth. Anchor off the boatbuilders' village of
Windward or tight up behind Carib Island.
Sail on north and west to anchor behind Frigate Island, a seldom-used anchorage
that's one of my favorites. (Frigate Island is attached to Union Island by a causeway
constructed for a failed 1,.i ,-i--jt 1 Then, if the wind is south of east, Bloody
Bay on Union Island is .. I .I I '' .1I the wind is east or north of east forget it.
On to the windward side of Mayreau: just like the outer anchorage in the Tobago
Cays, but no other boats. The windward side of Canouan is also an excellent anchor-
,,11 ;; i,, gh that you will never be crowded. If it is not blowing too hard, and
,I eyeball navigator and can put a crewmember ON THE SPREADERS,
.. either anchorage where you will be alone and have good diving within
easy swimming distance of the boat.
Out to windward is Baliceaux, an uninhabited island visited by fishermen and the
occasional yacht. Another easily reached, quiet anchorage is Anse Chemin on
Bequia, which is great as long as the wind is east or south of east. From Anse
Chemin or Baliceaux heading north, forget about sailing up the west lee side of St
Vincent. Check the "meridian passage of the moon" table on the back of the Imray
lolaire chart or in Compass. Head across Bequia Channel with the first of the weather-
going tide, go to windward of St. Vincent and stand north to Vieux Fort, St. Lucia. It
should be a close reach, a fe -h -,lr.n.: ti- winter, or come spring, when the wind
tends to be south of east, a g. I i I
Once checked in at Vieux Fort, sail around the corner and anchor in Anse de Sable.
Tuck up really tight behind Maria Island, as in the main bay it tends to be rolly as
the swell hooks around both sides of Maria Island.
Heading west, try Laborie. Unfortunately there are moorings, but I am told that
there is still space to anchor and the boat boys are not too pushy.
In Martinique, check in at Le Marin, then leave the crowded harbor and anchor off
Ste. Anne in clear water and plenty of room. It is a good ,,,,,i ,.. 1 i I ,- the east
coast of Martinique, a wonderful cruising ground where .. i .1 mny other
cruising yachts. In this area my guide is adequate, but if you really want to gunk
hole, especially if you have a shoal-draft boat, purchase the guide by Philipe
Lacheneze Huede and Jerome Nouel. Philip is descended from Martinique's first
white settlers and has sailed the east coast all his life, while Jerome arrived in
Martinique 30 years ago, has cruised into every gunk hole in Martinique and has
produced superb sketch charts.
There are so many anchorages on the east coast of Martinique that I will not try to
list them. Since the harbors lay on an east-west axis it means you cannot leave till
the sun is high and you should be anchoring by 1500 at the latest. At the head of
some of these harbors the rise and fall of tide at springs can reach three feet, so
check depth and state of tide before anchoring.
In Dominica there are few anchorages; none are off the beaten track.
Next month: The Saints and northward.

,- J
I I' th . ** ', 1i I .. i Ir i .

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of the meridian passage (or zenith) of the moon for this and next month, will help you
calculate the tides.
Water Don explains, generally tries to run toward the moon. The tide starts running
to the east soon after moonrise, continues to run east until about an hour after the
moon reaches Its zenith (see TIME below) and then runs westward. F .... i ,'
moon's setting to just after Its nadir, the tide runs eastward; and : ... I '
nadir to soon after Its 1i tl-. tide runs westward. Tin' 1 ~ '. local.
Note: the maximum 1 i i r 4 days after the new .....
For more Information, see 'Tides and Currents" on the back of all Imray lolaire
charts. Fair tides!
January 21 1629 9 0838
DATE TIME 22 1713 10 0928
1 0016 23 1800 11 1016
2 0118 24 1852 12 1101
3 0216 25 1949 13 1145
4 0310 26 2050 14 1226 (new)
5 0400 27 2153 15 1307
6 0449 28 2256 16 1347
7 0537 29 2356 17 1428
8 0626 30 2454 (full) 18 1511
9 0715 31 0054 19 1557
10 0806 20 1646
11 0858 February 21 1739
12 0950 DATE TIME 22 1836
13 1042 1 0148 23 1936
14 1131 2 0239 24 2036
15 1219 (new) 3 0329 25 2136
16 1303 4 0419 26 2234
17 1346 5 0510 27 2330
18 1427 6 0607 28 0000 (full)
19 1507 7 0654
20 1547 8 0746


to refit her sufficiently to begin their cruising life. The work of : i...' ii an-
tinued as they traveled until Ambler was brought to her curr .. ..... ... .. in
1991. Even though she has a taller mast installed and a foresail added to make her
a cutter and her wheelhouse has been cut down to a coach roof and countless other
changes have been made, her stout, 40-foot, 16-ton hull still provides a truly sea-
worthy boat. Ambler has proven herself to be a reliable vessel throughout Stan and
Cora's extensive travels.
They started their cruising adventure in the Mediterranean. From there they went
to the Canary Islands, then across the Atlantic to Brazil, south to Argentina and
around the Cape and up to Chile, then Easter Island, across the Pacific to Polynesia,
Australia and New Zealand. Then it was 3,000 miles across to Madagascar, around
South Africa and across the Atlantic, back to Brazil, some 25 years later. The adven-
tures and misadventures of Ambler's voyages during those years would fill a book.
From Brazil, Stan and Cora worked their way up the South American coast and into
the Caribbean two years ago.
Stan is the cook and the engineer. Much of the refit of the boat has been done in out
of the-way places, requiring Stan to create needed parts and items from materials avail-
able. He is carpenter, welder, mechanic and rigger. Cora said, "It wasn't until we got to
the Caribbean that I realized you could walk into a chandlery and buy something you
need rather than having to make it yourself." Cora does the painting, varnishing, bot
tom scraping, epoxy and canvas work, and generally keeps the boat shipshape.
Underway, the crew roles on Ambler are quite blurred. Whoever is on watch is the cap-
ta... .. tI. c io .- become second nature to both of them, as have most of the tasks
ir i i ... i.... I i.... the boat. Whatever needs to be done, together they can handle it.
In their travels across the planet, Stan and Cora have shared their talent and pas-
sion for music. Wherever they are, you will probably find them playing their favorite
jazz or blues pieces in some local club, often joined by local musicians. Stan does
keyboard and vocal while Cora plays the sax. Stan has played since childhood. Cora,
on the other hand, has acquired her musical skills during their travels. Their upbeat
outlook and passion f- li-in- -"1oarly come through in their music.
When asked what 1, -h I .. i places have been, they agree their all-time favorite
is Tonga. They spent five years in Tonga's .-.'i i.1 ." 1 - i- making many friends,
including the Crown Prince, a fellow mus. ... a, i. .I are Madagascar and
Mozambique. But they add, "Everywhere we have been, we've found the people to be
friendly to us."
When I asked what they like best about this cruising life, Cora spoke up. "We go
everywhere but I always have my own bed, my books, my home, wherever we are."
For the future, as far as they can see it, Stan and Cora will go where the wind car-
ries them, making friends and making music along the way.


I ,,' I '[ nI '
1 . *. ,' * , .

I I 1 1




by Patrick DiLalla

When I bought my boat in Maine six years ago, people told me she was built in i
the Caribbean and was famous. They told me that she always comes back home,
and that she knew the way to Bermuda on her own. But
in the drive to get the boat and myself ready for a solo
passage to Bermuda, I never allowed myself to think of
my vessel in such a romantic way. I preferred to call her
"tried and true" if anything, and focused on all of her
possible weaknesses.
But later, as I guided my beloved little boat back to her
birthplace after a 28th 1 ... ., ... .. 1111 puff
of wind sweetened by 1. ,. '- I 1 .... i' ross
Plumbelly's sails and she knew where we were. I smiled
and let myself believe in the magic carpet that carried
me so many miles and reveled in her amazing history.
Plumbelly came to life on the beach in Admiralty Bay
under the shade of the palm trees, near the place where
the Porthole Restaurant is now. An eccentric German
architect and ship's captain named Klaus Alverman
wanted a small yacht to cruise the islands in, and he
set out to build it with the help of, among others, i
Bequian shipwright Lauren Dewar, better known as
Lauren Joe. They built the 25-foot boat in the local
tradition, hewing carefully selected timber from around
the island into the shape of a modified two-bow fishing
boat. Her full body inspired the name as a passerby
commented, "Look like she got a big plum in de belly!"
She was launched in 1965, and a few years later set
out to cross the Pacific Ocean. Klaus' motivation for
leaving on such an ambitious passage is unknown to
me. Plum -I 1 I ..- 1 i. .- : .- t, .-.. 1 f- 1 If
steering cl II i I I .-
with the bow down, Plhmbelly arrived in the Pacific
islands -, ,,,. beard of algae on her bowsprit!
While i .1... resting in Tahiti, a big red double-
ender came gliding into the harbor with a wild-eyed
Frenchman at the helm. The man had just sailed two
times around the world, non-stop. It was the messiah
of French yachting, Bernard Moitessier. The two men
became friends and Klaus obtained a design for a sim-
ple wind vane from him. He built the wind vane in New
Zealand and it is ---rl-.i;, m:f. igic as I write this.
PlumbeUly and .I....- ..... I to Bequia to a hero's
welcome the first Bequia boat to be sailed around the
world. For those in Bequia that know the story of
Plumbelly, there is a gleam of pride in their eyes when
they speak about it. This is my second time "back home"
with the old girl and I've yet to meet someone over 30
who doesn't know the name. Many remember Klaus and
called him a friend. Bequians will be pleased to know
that the boat's fame extends far beyond Bequia, the
Windward Islands and even the Caribbean. In places as Sm
far afield as Senegal I've had people ask me: "That's not THE PhunbellUy, is it?" "Bet anc
your boots it is, the one and only!" People just smile and shake their heads.
When Klaus finally stopped after 20-odd years of sailing, Plumbelly ended up in
the hands of an American science professor in Massachusetts. She was used for

day sailing and coastal cruising until an adv-*t''-h''' ---' n-. .*. fr- m I aine
boughtherand or- ...i. --.t- -1. ---1 n i .. ii .. . i .. I Now
am the third in ... i .. i. I .... (actually I'm from Ohio but I bought
he boat while living in Maine) whom Plumbelly has carried safely across oceans.
One previous owner and friend of mine told me before I left for the first time,
'Plumbelly is the princess of every harbor she visits; she always gets the best
spot!" And I'll be darned if it hasn't been true from the grimiest fishing harbor
n Morocco to the most chi-chi spots in the Caribbean, she always gets the royal
treatment. She's so small, but so proud. She just charms the socks off of every
body! I think its the spirit of adventure and tradition she embodies that makes
peoples' eyes twinkle when they take a moment to admire her.
I read once that art is an expression of humans' love of labor, and people have
described Klaus' relationship with Plumbelly as "a grand love affair". In the case
of the Bequian shipwrights it was a love born out of necessity, for nothing less
than a sort of love can create a - 1 11, ... I, I [aling. In Plumbelly,
Klaus created a working mon .... .. i i I11. i i,,, i.. i., ,, a swan song that
used his love of construction .. i i i 11, -. -I sel that has turned
nto a legend in the waters that she plies, always popping up to the delight of
everyone who ever dreamed of just getting a boat and going.

.. .. .:

Al but mighty, Plumbelly of Bequia crosses oceans, turns heads
I keeps tradition and dreams alive

- RTC I n I119


Guadeloupe F.W.I.

N la ri na Pi n le-i- Pil re 971 11 V MAR
PIum.'ne: +5901 590) 9017 137 Fa x: +5911 5911 918651 TOHATSU
E-mail: [ n anineG'' aiith. -lTOHATSU

Mechanics and Electricity Genuine parts Yanmar & Tohatsu High pressure cleaners 150/250bars
Boat Maintenance Basic spare parts (filters, impellers, belts) Electrical tools
Engine diagnosis Filtration FLEETGUARD Diverse hand tools
Breakdown service 24/7 Anodes,Shaft bearings Vacuum cleaner for water
Haulout and hull sand blasting Electric parts, batteries Scaffolding
Equipment for rent Primers and Antifouling International
Technical shop Various lubricants





Falling in Love

with Grenada

by Richard Rolland
Hello to you all. Before telling our story, let me
give you a bit of our background.
My name is Richard and my wife is Lucie; we are
both from Montreal, Canada, retired and in our mid-
fifties. Our new home is called Marie Galante 11.
It all started in 2006 at the end of a two-week
charter on a 40-foot catamaran, from Martinique to
Guadeloupe and back. We had been sailing for the
past ten years and loved to travel and to be on the c
water. My wife was entitled to her retirement the
coming year and I wasn't really sure of my future
with the takeover of the company that T ---
for. Just before leaving Martinique I -
could imagine cruising the Caribbean full time. I
h.1 1-- .. 1 : 1 idea of her answer it was a
Upon our return I started right away to see how
.1. 1 .|nn. t- .i..1-- this project come alive.
i' ...... we came to one solu-
,,, ,, .. i ...... ell everything that we
owned (the house, motorboat, car, furniture, you
name it), find the boat and go!
So, after a year and a half, we left Montreal on a
1992 Jenneau Sun Odyssey 44. We had previously .-
taken basic navigation and coastal navigation
courses. Before we left, we also took specialized
courses in subjects such as shortwave radio, diesel
In hbni- mlt -r-1- -nd first aid, and got some
mII ...II. I I I 11 I I n Lake Champlain, f
south of Montreal, getting familiar with our boat
and the new equipment we put on board, we offi-
cially started this new lifestyle and adventure on
September 6th, 2007. No more schedules, no more
clock-watching, just living one day at a time and
with no idea for how long WOW.
Our first leg was through the Champlain Canal
and down the Hudson River to New York, Cape May,
the Delaware River, Chesapeake Bay, Norfolk, and
the Intracoastal down to Florida.
-Continued on next page

Port Louis Marina another great reason to visit Grenada

Grenada remains one of the most unspoilt and welcoming cruising destinations Port Louis is owned and operated by Camper & Nicholsons Marinas, and our friendly
in the Cabbean and knowledgeable staff are on hand 24 hours a day to welcome yachts of all sizes
Now, with Port Louis, visiting yachts can enloy the security and convenience from 20fl to 300ft
of a beautifully appointed, fully serviced marina located in the lagoon adjacent For more information about securing a berth at Port Louis, including the opportunity
to the islands capital, St Georges to purchase on a 30-year licence, please contact our Sales and Marketing Co-ordinator,
Grenada's southern location allows for year round cruising, including the summer months, Danny Donelan on +1 (473) 435 7432 or emal danny donelan@cnportlouismarna com
and with an internationa airport ust five miles away, Port Louis is the ideal base for Port Louis Marina ust one more reason to visit the Spice Island'
exploring the wonderful islands of the Grenadines
As a Port of Entry, its easy to clear in and out through Port Louis, and our 24-hour security,
docksIde facilites and marina wide wifi all contribute to making your stay safe and relaxed i n&



...continued from previous page
We arrived in Florida in mid-December. Now that we have all the
time in the world, we only sail in good conditions, we take time to
visit everything that may be of interest, and we are meeting new
sailors living the same dream. What more can you ask for?
From Fort Lauderdale we sailed to West End in the Bahamas and
the Abacos, Nassau, and all of the following islands. The fun part so
far was that we were always going south and it was always summer.
No more spring, fall or especially winter. Discovering so many won-
derful people and spectacular places would take wa-a-a-y too long
to describe here. After waiting for a good weather window we sailed
from the Turks & Caicos to the Dominican Republic at Luperon.
Six months had gone by so fast and we were only beginning. We
flew back home for two weeks, ... F.,,,,1 .,, 1 .. 1. .11 wonder-
ing how we were managing. It .- i...... i i. I perceive,
and can't really relate to, our new style of life. I'm sure that all of
you boaters understand what I mean.
Let's move on Puerto Rico, Vieques, Culebra, St. Thomas, and
the BVI, where we stayed for three months. Then St. Martin to
Guadeloupe, stopping at most of the islands in between. Mind you,
we don't have to stop at every island right now because we will pass
back eventually.
Lucie has family in Guadeloupe and hurricane season had start
ed. Luckily for us her cousin was going back to Canada for seven
weeks and wanted us to take care of her house in the meantime.
Hard to refuse, wouldn't you say? We left the boat at Marina Bas-
du-Fort and enjoyed the earthling life again: pool, car, big wash-
room and no restrictions on water or showers. We took this oppor
tunity to visit, in depth, all of Guadeloupe. It was also time to take
care of Marie Galante because she needed a good clean-up, antifoul-
ing, waxing, etcetera you know the drill.
We had a charter booked on our boat that was scheduled for
January, so we sailed back up to the BVI. We stopped at Antigua,
which we had not visited in the past, and celebrated Christmas in
St. Martin where my daughter was. By the end of February, it was
time to head south again.
This time we stopped at Saba, which we recommend that every
body should visit. And of course we stopped at Marie Galante; we
could not pass the island for which our boat is named. Dominica
was next and then Martinique, where we stayed for three weeks at
Grande Anse D'Arlet. We rented a car for three days to go around
the island. We slept one night at the foot of Mt. Pelee in a small bed-
and-breakfast a real treat.
From then on, every island south of Martinique would be new to
us, with the goal being Grenada. I will spare you all the names of
the islands from Martinique to Grenada. By the end of June, we
were at St. George's Lagoon.
Okay, back to the title of this story: falling in love with Grenada.
The first things that we noticed were the beautiful view of the city
and the Carenage from the lagoon, the warm welcome and help from


the dock master of Port Louis Marina, and the reunion with cruising
friends who were anchored close by.
We were still not sure if we would remain here for hurricane sea-
son because we had friends from two other boats going to Venezuela
and they wanted us to go with them. We still had three weeks
before their arrival and decided to stay at the marina for that time.
There you are close to everything, whether by foot or dinghy, and
the buses are right here. i .11 .... .i i the buses, well, you don't
wait for them- they are ,,,. i .. We have traveled a lot and
find Grenada's bus system is unique and cheap EC$2.50 (about
one US dollar) will take you most places you want to go.
Already we felt something different about this place but were not
sure what it was. On an island tour with friends we discovered the
spice factories, plantations and, naturally, the rum distillery. I believe
that was the beginning of our love story. Raymond (Maboat), our
driver and guide, came to be a very good personal friend. The thing
about Grenadians is that they are so welcoming: without prejudice,
simple, honest and helpful. Even the street vendors do not harass
you; if you say "no, thanks", they smile and wish you a good day. Now
that is special, after living with other situations elsewhere!
Every day I took a walk around the marina to see the ongoing
expansion and renovation. It's quite interesting if you like to see
how things are built. At the beginning, the workers thought I was
an inspector but soon found out that I was more curious than any-
thing else and we became friendly.
By the time our friends arrived to continue to Venezuela, Lucie
and I had decided to stay here for hurricane season and to learn
more about Grenada, especially since Carnival was around the cor-
ner and it would be our first one. Talk about having fun dancing,
singing and drinking yes! We and some fellow cruisers joined
hundreds and hundreds of local people, and they made us feel so
much at ease and they were so happy that we celebrated Spice Mas
with them. It was like being a part of the family, and that's what you
see and feel every day, everywhere on this island.
I had to go back home for two weeks, and upon my return every-
one whom I had met since our arrival greeted me with so much
warmness, "-^n "welcome back!" and I felt that it came from
the heart. : i i 1.1 we belong here. I could go on and on relating
all sorts of daily situations, but to put it simply, Grenadians are just
loving and warm people. It has been over five months now that we
are here, and the feeling is still the same, so much so that we are in
the process of 'T -rrin h-v to prolong our stay.
To the people. I' .... I. who read this, please, please, please,
don't n.-- keep that mentality that makes you so fine and
unique I ,ve you.
For those cruisers who have not had the chance to come here yet,
don't wait put up the sail and come. You won't ;--- t it.
To all the friends we made since the beginning ol 1 adventure,
we salute you wherever you are. We will be stationed at Port Louis
Marina and hope to see you here. Safe and happy sailing!

Or[n tl ag pcatycokn trg ]in

Tidvr Anchors' -.ro1-dcr- ii Perkin

S * Now Sails Can.as
Sv.age up lo 16mm

Gear & Furlers in Stock All fl"ing .in 'otk

Deck loyout specialist Hydraulic repair %tOrn
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Tel/FUCP (473) 439-4495 turbaNi@spkeisle.com

A long the 'Wild Side', Bonaire's rocky east coast,
a magnificent lagoon known as Lac Bay. A
ile-long reef runs along most of its entrance,
blocking a turbulent sea fueled by constant Caribbean
tradewinds. Within the bay, however, the water chang-
es from a rich, indigo blue to an iridescent, dreamsicle
green. Violent, churning waves give way to flat water.
Depths run shallow with much of the bay only three to
six feet deep.
These conditions make Lac a perfect place for wind-
surfing, and tourists flock here by the thousands to
take on the wind in smooth seas. In fact, this is home
to the annual Dutch Antilles Windsurfing Challenge,
an international event attended by Olympic-class
windsurfers from around the globe and homegrown
competitors like Patun Saragoza and Taty Frans. But
Lac Bay is also known for something less thrilling than
high-performance windsurfing. Less thrilling, that is,
unless you are a turtle. The bay holds a bounty of
nutritious sea grass.
"Green turtles are mostly herbivores. Their bread
and butter are sea grass and algae. They maintain
grazing fields here. They like the sea grass when it's
young and tender and just eat that and move on." So
says Dr. Robert Van Dam, a marine biologist who, for
the past 20 years, has conducted research on turtles
i ,1, the Caribbean.
S. is a special place. There's a real pumping
action of water going on. The wind-driven water gets
pushed in and flows out a deeper channel. This high
degree of circulation is unlike other mangrove-fringed
bays in the Caribbean. Nutrients .' 1 J ....1 in and
out frequently so the bay is very -.. .1 i i sea life.
Because of this, three hundred to five hundred turtles
use Lac on a daily basis."
Many of those turtles hail from other islands in the
Caribbean, but come to Lac Bay specifically to eat.
Between trips back to their origins to breed, many
spend time at Lac's sea grass smorgasbord dining on
Thalassia testudinum, turtle grass, and Syringodium
filiforme, manatee grass.
"You can see that," claims Van Dam. "If you go
snorkeling right outside of Lac, you'll see all these
turtles hanging out. This i- ... -1.... and digesting
habitat. They've been so -.. -..i ... feeding in an
hour or two inside the bay that they just swim out
and bunch up together. They're all fat and happy.
They are even socializing outside the reef. The oppor-
tunity for f---l-n. is so great at Lac. It's just a magnet
for green ,, I -.

Main photo: A hawksbill turtle. The nutrient laden sea grass of Lac Bay serves these turtles well
Inset: STCB's Funchi Egbreghts with Red Berger. Red is among the cruiser volunteers who help with sea turtle
conservation projects in Bonaire: 'It opens up a whole new world'
I took Van Dam's advice and snorkeled just beyond them. I spotted more than 50 during my hour-l
the bay's reef on a day when the winds were low and snorkel. There were brawny, green turtles weigh
the waves tempered. Visibility in these waters can eas- well over 100 pounds. Hawksbills were also pres
ily reach 100 feet. The bottom was dotted with a forest with their distinctive beaks and dark-colored she
of purple and green sea fans approaching ten feet in The nutrient-laden sea grass of Lac Bay had ser
height. They moved to the undulating rhythm of these turtles well.
incoming swells making for a dreamlike, aquatic dance
below. And then there were the turtles layers of -Continued on next p




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-Continued from previous page
"They came for the buffet," says Van Dam smiling,
"and the eating's really good. Its a nursery ground
here for Caribbean green turtles."
But there is trouble in paradise. The constant use of
Lac Bay by windsurfers, waders, and other recreation-
ists has begun *....i i. .. .- beds, which can
be easily destr' I ,1 h 1, ',, ,,i. Iden upon. Once
eliminated, shore erosion can increase signifi-
cantly, upsetting the local habitat.
"The importance of sea grass goes beyond -
turtles," explains Mabel Nava, manager for the
not-for-profit organization, Sea Turtle
Conservation Bonaire (STCB). "These beds are
important because they retain substrate sedi-
ment. They clean the water. They also serve as a
buffer to the constant wave action i, ., ...'
protects the beaches that we all ..i .1 1 .
To that end, STCB spearheaded an effort with
Bonaire's national park organization, STINAPA,
the not-for-profit Progressive Environmental
Solutions and local Lac Bay beach businesses to
protect the grass. They installed "no-go zones"
with floating buoys and ropes that encircle sea
grass beds in waters used frequently by swim-
mers, kayakers and windsurfers. The boundar-
ies serve as a reminder not to step inside these
vulnerable areas.
"Those beds are too shallow and too busy for
sea turtles to visit," adds Robert Van Dam. "But
it is a great beginning to let people know that these are
special places. Sea grass is a nursery for a whole
bunch of organisms important to Lac."
"In the near future, we're placing 'turn around'
buoys to protect I. .... i ds where turtles do
feed," continues . ... ,I windsurfers often
turn around in this area as they cruise Lac and step
,i. th i- .... i, the process. The buoys will warn the
1 i., -1 i i they reach this area."
STCB is also involved in data collection of sea tur-
tles. Twice a year the group captures turtles in Lac
Bay. Before releasing them, the turtles are measured,
1 1 i -t-7 .. -h-1 given ID tags and inspected
S. ... this information goes into a
database and individual turtles can be tracked over
time. Van Dam, who works as a scientific advisor for
STCB, has been impressed by some of the results.
"The big 'wow' factor is the growth rates of these ani-
mals. During our data collection we've discovered that
they're growing six to eight centimeters (four to five
inches) per year. Thats the highest growth rate for

juvenile green turtles in the world."
Volunteers are vital for a grass-roots organization
such as STCB. In addition to the activities at Lac Bay,
helpers work on beach cleanup, water surveys, sea
turtle satellite tracking, and nest monitoring.
"We have only two paid staff, field specialist Funchi
Egbreghts and myself as manager," explains Nava, "so
volunteers are essential for us. But I especially like

unteer. They are people who are familiar with the sea.
They're usually good swimmers or drive boats or do
things that are really helpful for us. And they love
turtles because they love the sea."
I found this to be true when I met "Red" Berger who
is in Year Five of a Caribbean cruise with her husband
Tom. They own a steel-hulled Endurance 44 ketch,
Katana, which they call home.
"They .. ... ". i. .. you swim with them,"
declares : ,, ,, ,.- been able been able to
pick out a sea turtle so easily before. Now when I swim
from our mooring, I can easily spot a turtle. I know
what to look for, so that's pretty cool. It opens up a
whole new world."
Red usually accompanies STCB's Funchi Egbreghts
to survey the nesting turtles three times per week.
They search the beaches of Bonaire's west coast and
those of offshore island, Klein Bonaire, for signs of
nesting activity. It takes about 60 days for sea turtle
eggs to hatch. When they do, STCB tries to be there in

order to get an accurate count of the hatchlings. These
numbers are added to the database, but the team, at
times, helps hatchlings reach the sea to what is the
start of a perilotu 1-- -
"If conditions .. ,,I ,I we give th- b .t-blin;
little help -" m~i-i. -bstructions, -
Egbreghts. i, I . i 1 of predators in the beginning
i' 11. .. i. ... i .... -i . birds, fish and crabs."
I 1.1 i .... .. of The Discovery Channel,"
adds Berge I ... working with the turtles is
really cool, but there are other benefits. You sail
to a place and the volunteering lets you meet the
local people. Otherwise I wouldn't know Funchi
and have gone out to his farm and hung out with
his father. Its just the right thing to do. You've
given back a little of what they've given you. If
you're a cruiser and you're not taking advantage
of this, you don't know what you're missing."
"One year we did the netting-data collection in
i ,,I,, 1 I , . .. . ., -. i,,, i ,. "adds
.. .. . . 1.. i I iiI .. .... h re tw o
to three months, so its perfect. We even have cruis-
ers who return to volunteer again and again.
January through April is a good time to contact us
since we are busy doing in water surveys around
Bonaire. After that, we start with the nesting sea
son. These are perfect times for sailors to plan their
visit here if they would like to volunteer."
Back at Lac Bay, I walk the sandy shore with
Robert Van Dam who is talking numbers. "Today,
we only have about 100,000 adult sea turtles in the
entire Caribbean Sea, whereas there were probably at
least 10 million before Columbus arrived. Can you
imagine what places like Lac must have been like?
These waters were just teeming with turtles. I expect
there could have been 3,000 to 5,000 turtles in the bay
here back then."
As I look out over the vast lagoon, I try to imagine
that time long ago. The water is sparkling gold in the
afternoon sun. Suddenly, I spot the silhouetted head
of a sea turtle breaking the surface for a quick breath
of air. That timely glimpse gives me hope that the
turtles will always return to feast at Lac Bay as long as
it is well preserved. I know I will always return, simply
to see them.
For more information on Sea Turtle Conservation
Bonaire visit www.bonairenature.com/turtles
When not writing for Caribbean Travel & Life, Sailing
Magazine or Earth Island Journal, Patrick Holian is
often at the helm of his 14foot catboat, Kontentu, sail
ing the leeward coast of Bonaire.


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Y ARIES (21 Mar 20 Apr)
While boat-business sails are backed, fo-l Ifr t- iThllf
in romance, which will prove a blissful 1, -
New Year gets underway.
d TAURUS (21 Apr 21 May)
It's love AND lust on the breeze this month, sailor, so
Si a bit as a reward
.. ..I ,,, I tyard.
I GEMINI (22 May 21 Jun)
As 2010 is launched, adverse currents in your love life
will slow forward motion on --- l ----tive cruising ambi-
tions. Don't fret the tide -' 1..... ,,, your favor during
the third week.
CANCER 0 (22 Jun 23 Jul)
Personal relationships and onboar I 1 1 1 be in
irons this month, and you'll feel a ** i i drive.
.... .. on deck with a cold beer

Q LEO (24 Jul 23 Aug)
Other than a lack of energy and a lackadaisical attitude,
this will be a dead calm month! Find a good "beach book"
and enjoy it.
Tp VIRGO (24 Aug 23 Sep)

deck with a coldle.
^ LIBRA (24 Sep 23 Oct)
Business and finances are slogging to windward with a

T1 SCORPIO (24 Oct 22 Nov)
Prepare to reef! Romance, which has been smooth sail-
ing of late, -.--t ome rough weather in the third
week. You In ..'i 1.1 for wind, did you?
SAGITTARIUS (23 Nov 21 Dec)
Get to work, sailor; the holidays are over. Any new boat
projects .- .-1--.-- had best be concluded before
the end 1 .
CAPRICORN (22 Dec 20 Jan)
ft 1 l 1. 1 i -. t -- 1t- .1 ,iun-
I i .. .. I I II the

AQUARIUS (21 Jan 19 Feb)
Sails will be slack .. I 1 ....1 the last week.
It's the perfect time i i 1 . ... 1. to make your
i nest ready for romance to sail in during the

PISCES (20 Feb 20 Mar)
.. on the hook

Crossword Solution
11) IN 42) ATOLL 22) NOON
14) CAM 46) SEEPS 24) YAWL
17) AFTWARD 28) LI
23) SINO 2) OF 33) SW
26) GO 4) AO 36) SEAM
27) HALF 5) SWIMS 38) DATA
29) WITCH 6) TIN 40) ILE
35) YARD 10) LOST


For what am I searching?
hy do I walk these dusty lanes?
Why do I sail this azure sea?

Long ago,
Before classes and degrees,
Before funerals of parents and loved c

John Rowland


The last person to see Speedy, asked him-

T ........

'...are you sure you don't want assistance?

Compass Cruising Crossword

Make a New Year's resolution to be more green in
2010. Start by doing this special puzzle, and when
you're done reading this issue of Compass, pass it
on or recycle it!
Word Search Puzzle by Pauline Dolinski



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R E R D L D N L N T L N 0 K L
R E W 0 P R A L O S R E N E I
S A V E 5 0 P 5 1 D F I S H U








Word Search Puzzle solution on page 49


"Dragons, doux-doux? I don't think they've really gone anywhere,"
answered Silla's grandmother. Silla was only six years old and the ques-
tions she asked her grandmother were hard for the old lady to answer.
Granny had been brought up in the country on a Caribbean island of
mountains and rivers where, as a child, she had never heard of dragons
or seen a TV. All that the children feared back then were the local spirits,
such as the Soucouyant and the Mage Noir, and even now, Granny kept
little bags of garlic by the doors and windows to keep out night-prowling
spirits. Granny's own kind of
spooks she could handle, but not j
the bloodthirsty vampires and f
dragons that featured so dra-
matically on TV these days. Oh,
she understood why children
loved them, because as children,
she and her friends loved to be
scared by stories of evil forest
creatures just waiting to carry
them off. But dragons? She
would just have to make up a
story to satisfy Silla or the child
would never stop pestering her.
"But if dragons have never
really gone, where are they?" per-
sisted Silla.
"Well, I didn't want to tell you
this, but all th- -Irt-n are up G o n
there in Morne : ,, .1 i
"You mean this very Morne Part One
Diablo in this very island?" Silla
shivered as she sat on her grand-
mother's wide and comfy lap. 1 by Lee Kes
"That's what I've heard, child. 1
And what's more, they come
down from their mountain caves
and gobble up stray animals like cats and dogs and anything they can
get their claws on. The smaller animals they eat where they find them,
the 1. -nes they carry off to tl .. .1 -... II... lens!"
i carry off children as 11 i -.11 her eyes wide with
pleasurable fright.
"You never can tell, but I haven't heard of any children who have gone
missing lately..."
That night Silla dreamed about dragons in the mountain that loomed
over the island, and in the -rn.i-n s it was Saturday and no school,
she determined to walk as i ...- -i' could to Morne Diablo and see
for herself.
Silla didn't get very far as the mountain was a long way off and 1-. 1- -
were very small, but she looked about the worn path for any -....- i
dragons having stopped for a meal.
Just as she was about to go home as her tummy was rumbling with
hunger she heard a little mewing bleat from behind a boulder. Silla
trembled with fear and would have run down the hill as fast as she could,
"i, 1. 1 ..1 1.i obey her and she stood as if a dragon had breathed

The small bleat came again, and then a little head peeped around the

rock. It was the strangest creature that Silla had ever seen. It had a face
like a lamb, but rising from its head and running down the length of its
squat little body were claw-like spikes that rose and fell as it bleated. It
had tiny wings pressed -..i-nt it- sides and a tail with an arrow's head
at the end. Every part ol 1.111 I creatur- 1 :.-l1-n its short legs and
clawed feet, glowed on and off in all the i ... i 11. rainbow. It had to
be a baby dragon!
And who could resist such a cute creature? Not Silla, so she had her
arms wrapped about it in an instant. She
picked itl ... 1 .. . 1 fI vith it, intending
I to take it ... ... I .. i .1 But Silla didn't
get very far as the baby dragon was too heavy.
I vQz So she hid it behind a bush, told it to wait there
for her, and ran home.
"Granny, Granny, I've found a baby dragon!"
Silla gasped as she burst into the old lady's
kitchen. Granny was just putting out some
bakes and little fried fish for lunch but she
stopped and spun around to face her grand-
daughter. "What?" she demanded, forgetting all
about her story of dragons the day before.
"There are no such things as dragons!"
"But there are, there are, you said so and
I've found a baby dragon lost and hungry on the
path up the mountain and I have to get some
milk to take back and feed it!"
"Now just you sit down and get hold of your-
self, young lady. For a start, what were you
doing taking that path to Morne Diablo when
you've been told not to?"
"But Granny, you told me that dragons lived
l /- in the mountain so I went to see for myself, but
f it was too far." Sill-- -.--n t- ob.
The old lady's .. I 11 .. I at once and she
took Silla in her arms and told her it was all
right, and after they had eaten the bakes and fish she and Silla would
take I 1i1 ....11 ... I ) and feed the baby dragon. Of course, Granny
believe I -i. ..1 1 ... I deformed lamb, abandoned by its mother on
the path, so she would bring it home and care for it.
Silla gobbled down her lunch and fidgeted until her grandmother had
eaten. Then, taking some milk, a cup and a clean piece of cloth to let the
lamb suck from it, as Granny didn't have a baby's bottle with a teat, they
left the little cottage and made their way slowly up the mountain path. It
was a long, hot walk but at last Silla recognized the bush where she had
hidden the baby dragon. She raced ahead, calling out, "I'm back, little
dragon, and I've brought you some milk." A little irn =-n- 1 r. ---1
Granny's ears and then a little head pushed its w i ........ I ,
leafy bush...
Did Granny find a dragon or a lamb? Read the end of this exciting story
in next month's issue of Caribbean Compass!




by Elaine Ollivierre
Last month, we looked at how the carbon atoms in the world are recycled. Now
lets look at how the ocean plays a part in the carbon cycle.
Global warming and the greenhouse effect are caused by excess greenhouse
gases like carbon dioxide (CO2) in the atmosphere. The gases trap heat close to
the Earth's surface. Global warming would be much worse if the ocean didn't
absorb a great deal of the carbon dioxide. In fact, scientists believe that it prob-
ably absorbs around 50 percent of the carbon dioxide produced when fossil fuels
such as coal and oil are burned.

What happens to the carbon dioxide that is absorbed?
Carbon dioxide is more soluble in cold water than it is in warm water so
it dissolves in northern seas, sinks down and is carried on the 'conveyor
belt' of ocean currents to warmer water further south in the tropics. There
it comes to the surface and escapes to the atmosphere. This process may
take many years.
The ocean also contains large amounts of microscopic plant plankton (phyto-
plankton), which use up carbon dioxide in photosynthesis. When the phyto-
plankton die, they sink to the ocean floor. Some get buried in the mud of the
ocean floor. Some decay and release carbon dioxide back into the water and,
eventually, back into the air.
So, if carbon dioxide is being continually recycled between the atmosphere
and the sea, why are scientists worried?
Too much carbon dioxide in the water makes larger amounts of carbonic acid
there. Carbonic acid dissolves calcium carbonate, which is the chief building
material of coral reefs and of the shells of many marine animals. Scientists have
studied the thickness of the shells of tiny animals called foraminifera (forams).
Forams also sink to the ocean floor when they die so it is possible to compare the
thickness of the shells of new forams with the thickness of the shells of the dead
ones found on the sea bottom. The newer shells were thinner by about one-third,
almost certainly caused by a more acidic ocean.
The survival of these tiny animals is vital to the survival of all animals further
up the food chain. And no one knows how the loss of coral reefs and other marine
creatures whose shells and skeletons are destroyed by carbonic acid would affect
the future working of the carbon cycle.
Experiment to demonstrate what happens when acid meets
calcium carbonate.
Calcium carbonate comes in many forms, like coral, chalk, marble, and egg-
shell. To demonstrate what happens when calcium carbonate comes into contact
with acid, leave a piece of chalk or (dead) coral or eggshell in a cup of soda water.
You should see bubbles of carbon dioxide gas rising up and, eventually, your
calcium carbonate sample will waste away. If you'd like to see it happen more
quickly, use lime juice or vinegar instead of soda water.

I. - - - - - - - - ml




by Scott Welty

The Planets in January
MERCURY You have .1 ;,.; rcury this
month. It rises the earlies i i I., .. i. the rising
sun) on the 22nd at around 5:OOAM. Look east-south-
east to the left of the hook in Scorpio.
VENUS Nope. Venus will swing around the far side
of the Sun (superior conjunction) on the lth, mean-
ing it is too darn close to the sun for the month.
EARTH Would not return my calls.
MARS Rising around 9:00PM at the beginning of
the month and then earlier and earlier as it moves
through Cancer.
JUPITER An "evening star" all month setting in the
west around 7:00 to 8:00PM.
SATURN Rising between 11:00PM and midnight all
month and sitting in Virgo.
Sky Events This Month
1st to 5th Quadrantids meteor shower. Look for
increase in meteor activity in the east in the early
morning hours. Meteors look to be coming from
Bootes, which rises around 2:00AM.
3rd Earth at perihelion. What? Yes, at midnight
the Earth is its closest to the Sun. Yep, that happens
in the winter. See below.
15th New Moon
15th Annular eclipse of the sun; nicely visible off
the coast of Somalia but if you're sailing there you
have other things to watch out for!
17th Look for Jupiter and the pretty crescent
moon setting in the west around 7:00PM.
29th Mars in opposition AND closest to the Earth.
This means Mars is fully illuminated by the sun like a
full moon, except it's "full Mars".
flOth Pll Mnnn.



'\, ,


cal earth orbit. Notice i .... .i . the
sun and the Earth. (Graphic courtesy of University of
Tennessee Physics Dept.)
Figure Three, at left: The Earth's orbit to scale: 6" the
long way and 5.999" the short way. Can you see
which is which?
That's what they've done. Basically they have wired
millions of home computers together via the internet
to make a giant parallel processing computer. (You
can learn more and sign up here:
So, what do we do when and if a signal does come
I in? What if we can tell that its from 100 light years
/ away? Wha i 1. I..-1 "Stop that"? How will we
react as a I i ,i i really, really know that
someone else was out there... And they have radio but
no DJs? More wine?
Scott Welty is the author of The Why Book of Sailing,
Burford Books 2007.

Figure One: Mars on the 29th at 10:30PM. In theory at
its brightest, but the nearnes' &ftth n-arlr fi,11 moon
makes a day or two later or ,' .. ..... i
Elliptical Orbits
Sometimes we learn stuff in school "too much".
Somewhere along your journey through junior high or
high school you probably learned that the orbits of the
planets around the sun are elliptical in shape.
Johannes Kepler figured this out and Isaac Newton
then showed that it had to be so, given what he
worked out about gravity. This is all fine but then you
see diagrams like Figure Two.
The spirit of these diagrams is fine. It shows the
"ellipticalness" of the orbit with the sun at the focus
of the ellipse. But, like a lot of .-i. .. ... 11.....- the
scale is all out of whack. Never ...... i i. I .I .. Iraw
the ellipse on a standard sized piece of paper the size
of the Earth is less than the width of the line drawn
to represent the ellipse. Its the ellipse itself I want to
talk about.
Figure Three is the Earth's orbit drawn to scale. Well,
I tried anyway. At this scale the long axis of the ellipse
is 6 inches and the shorter axis is 5.999 inches! Neither
the sun nor the Earth shows up on this scale the Earth
being about 3/10,000 of an inch in diameter and the
sun being 3/1000 of an inch. We're down to individual
pixels being bigger than what we want to draw!
It's easy to see then that our nearness to the sun
has little to do with our seasons while our tilt to the
sun has everything to do with it.
To Contemplate While Having a Glass of Wine
on Deck
The SETI project is still out there. For years now
they have been 1-.:h'- the sky for radio signals
from intelligent .1 I i. in the universe. For the
last ten years they've done a clever computer thing.
They take in about a kabillion bushels of data every
second as they scan the sky. There is no computer big
enough to process all that data. But, what if you gave
a kabillion home computers one bushel of data?

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We are the fastest growing charter company,
operating TERM CHARTERS, all inclusive, 7 days.
We are looking for crew, mainly teams in the form of a Captain and a Chef/Hostess.
We prefer couples that are married OR have been living together for at least a year.
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Requirements: Captain with a Skipper's licence.
Chef/Hostess with a basic understanding of cooking.
Dive master/ instructor for either the Captain and/or Chef is a plus.
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Tel. St Vincent +784 457 3407 Tel. St Maarten +599 5510550

I Guides that just

ke p getting



Caribbean Books for Teens:

For 40 years, Macmillan has been one of the leading publishers of school textbooks
for the Caribbean. During that time they created the Macmillan Caribbean imprint and
have published books for and about the Caribbean in all subjects and at all levels. In
2006 they began activating plans to launch a brand new fiction series aimed at boys
and girls aged 12 to 15, with novellas based around fantasy/science-fiction themes
and the legends and folklore of the Caribbean. The six books in the series are all
paperback, and about 200 pages. These should be of interest not only to Caribbean
born teens, but to teen-aged expatriate residents and visitors as weR.
Three of the books in the series are reviewed here. The others are Legend of the
Swan Children, by Maureen Marks Mendonca; Escape from Silk Cotton Forest, by
Frances C. Escayg; and Delroy in the Marog Kingdom, by Helen Williams. The latter
two were reviewed in the August 2009 issue of Caribbean Compass.
Time Swimmer, by Gerald Hausman
Time Swimmer is the story of a young Jamaican, Luke, who befriends an ancient
storytelling sea turtle called Odysseus.
Together they travel through Caribbean
time, righting wrongs and -i li-es -
the pirate, Henry Morgan, i ,, and
Cyparis, the only survivor of the Mount
Pelee volcano that killed 28,000 people in
Martinique in 1902, to name another.
The novel is full of spiders that are men
w and lizards that are gods, all mixed
together in a pepperpot stew of fantastic
spice that blends fiery history with delec-
table fantasy
To me, the greatest thing about this
book was its emphasis on Caribbean his
tory long forgotten or, more accurate to
Sc say, not known by many of today's
*. l youths. Although it is history, it isn't bor
Sing. By using visual and sound imag-
'-.' ery, the writer gives a colorful edge to
these various historical events.
Furthermore, the writer also tries to have
the reader gain a sense of the courage,
intelligence and strength of the charac
ters, by describing the conflict in the plot
between Luke and Odysseus and the vari-
ous gods. The gods in the novelette typi
call represent obstacles and signs in a
character's life, or a helping hand achieve
ing set goals. There isn't much this book lacks for it is funny, imaginative and
rather innovative.
The Chalice Project, by Lisa Allen-Agostini
Twins, Ada and Evan Brijlal, eat junk food, fight at school and are normal
Trinidadian children in every way or so it seems. Their father Steven, a genius
scientist, desperately wants to protect his children from his reckless past. Now the
future ......1 ,i with them and Time as we know it may never be the same. A
sneaky .I i mother they long to know leads them to a Jamaican labor
tory and mind blowing revelations. A secret potion and the mysterious Chalice
Project are the children's only clues to uncovering their true identities.
At the beginning, the plot was centered on genetics. Its later plot was centered on
time travelling, telepathy and various mysterious events from the time of the chil
dren's conception leading up to the realization that they had super human abilities.
Continuedon next page

IA L 1,

TEL: 58 (281) 265-3844 E-MAIL : xanadumarine@cantv.net

-Continued from previous page
I expected The Chalice Project, as a part of the Island Fiction series, to follow the
Caribbean folklore theme of the
other books in the series, but it
doesn't. Actually the only common
aspect this book has with the oth-
ers was that its scenes were set on
a Caribbean island; other than
that, it was merely science fic-
tion. Don't get me wrong though, it
was still a pretty good read great
for passing the time.
Night of the Indigo,
by Michael Holgate
Marassa, a 15 year old Jamaican
boy, is catapulted into a wondrous
world of Natural Mysticism. His
twin brother Wico is dying and no
doctor on earth can save him.
Guided by Kundo, the mystic war
rior, Marassa transcends time and
matter into an unknown dimen
sion, a planet called Orunda. If he
accepts his responsibility as a
Marshal or Warrior of Light he can
rescue his brother from the clutch
es of death. But first he must
make a spine tingling journey,
confront the challenges of mind
and spirit and meet the beautiful
and exotic princess Ayoka. As his
mystic gifts awaken, Marassa must
learn to master the very power that
threatens, before the Night of the
Indigo Moon. If he doesn't, then
the power surging within will destroy
him and all he holds dear. Can he over
come all obstacles and prove that he is
worthy of the name Marshal?
I am going to be a little biased here
and say that I think this is the best book
of the series. The book is dramatic,
funny, mysterious, imagine
tive, and every other adjective known to
novelette. A tale of unknowing faith, dif
ferent worlds, deep .... i .,
pain and triumph is the :
that culminates in everlasting happiness
and redemption. In gathering a personal
understanding of this novelette, one
could say it's figurative, and if read
between the lines its true story unfolds:
the story of life.
It's about growing up, the choices that
we are faced with, right and wrong, trials
and temptations. One could say that
becoming the Marshal is Marassa's life's
purpose and, in reality, everyone has to
plot his or her own course to becoming a
Marshal per se. The story also contains
near death drama and the emotions that
go along with it. Marassa uses those feel
ings to excel, and so it should be done,
for sorrow carries no way forward. It's
the basics of everyday life in a ... i ,'i
These books are available at I.
Cherian Gordon, a recent graduate of Bequia Community High School, is currently
residing in England.

Your Marine Store at Venezuela and the Caribbean



xantrex / W.=T

t Raynarine R are

PE Eoja HIAtEm 6JOTUN D .ai;

E-nl: ,sab mnia w v l e' Mn (Soon at Carnelo's Manna at the beach)


more ingredients, equipment, tools and gadgets than
we could ever possibly use in one month, let alone one
day or for any single meal. 1, 1 ..- .1. .....
iment sometime. Count yo... 11 i. .. i I- 1 "
pans, baking dishes, casseroles, Dutch ovens and any
other container that you can cook in. Add to this num-
ber all the equipment, tools and gadgets, both useful
and whimsical, you have in your galley. Even without
considering all your stored ingredients, the number
will astound you.
There always is that favorite tool or utensil that you
never can find when it's needed. I have a favorite stir-

by Ross Mavis

Just Five


I have a new invention. It is engineered from a great
deal of research and personal experience. Every per
son over 50 will want one. The production materials
are kind to the environment. The cost is affordable.
It is a small rubber or plastic suction cup with a
length of brightly coloured organic woollen yarn
attached to it. I can market various models starting
at50 I ...... ;,, ,,i I 200 feet ... i .. The
suctio. ... i... .. i to any II - hone
on board and the yarn is left to trail behind, allow-
ing you instantly to find where you last left it. I'll
make millions.
C---1-. -an often be an experience similar to trying
to 1na i 1l1 cordless phone when you need it. Our
materialistic society encourages the acquisition of

stick carved from lignum vitae hardwood. I almost
hyperventilate if I can't lay my hands on it when food
S ....... other day I was unable to locate a
: i i .... 1 I ii ',. peeler, the only device I use for
,,,. ,,, It is fantastic. But, for the
S ,, ,,,, To add embarrassment to
frustration, my wife, Willa, pulled open the drawer I
had just closed after rummaging around in search of
the peeler, and there it was. Right out in the open.
How could I have missed it? I shook my head in disbe-
lief and shuffled off, mumbling under my breath about
the Zen of soy products or something equally as blas-
phemous. Our lives are filled with too much stuff. One
truism is that we never own stuff. stuff owns us.

You can imagi.., ,, ,, .
Willa gave me : ,, I .
England with a recipe for each month of the coming
year. And each recipe contains only five ingredients.
What a refreshing thought; only five ingredients to
track down in the galley! Too often we complicate our
lives by trying to make them more complex than nec-
essary. Granted, some dishes may involve several
stages of preparation and cooking and are more
involved than a simpi .. boiled in water and served
on toast. However, .11 md I have always tried to
provide recipes in our cookbooks that are not compli-
cated. Availability of ingredients and items commonly
found in today's kitchen or galley is also a priority.
Good food can be made with five ingredients. Here is a
sample of one such recipe.
Chops and Mushrooms in Sherry and Cream
2 large pork chops
2 Cups (500 ml) small, whole mushrooms
2 Tablespoons (30 ml) sherry
1 Tablespoon (15 ml) grainy Dijon mustard
3/4 Cup (150 ml) whipping cream
sLine a broiler pan with aluminum foil. Spray light
ly with canola oil. Lightly spray mushrooms with the
oil. Season mushrooms and chops with salt and pep-
per. Place the chops in the broiler pan and grill for
about 8 to 10 minutes until nicely browned. Turn
chops and add mushrooms to pan. Return to broiler
and cook another 7 to 8 minutes until mushrooms are
browned and chops are cooked through. Sprinkle
with sherry and stir mustard and cream into pan
juices. Season with salt and pepper to taste and
return pan under grill. Watch closely and serve when
sauce is bubbling nicely. Spoon sauce over chops and
mushrooms, serving with potatoes or rice and a green
vegetable of your choice.
This dish can also be prepared in a skillet on top of
the stove. Use medium-high heat when cooking the
chops and mushrooms. Reduce the heat slightly when
:.. ., i,,,. the cream. Enjoy.
SI ... . any cooking questions, don't hesitate to
seek advice from Ross@Innonthecove.com

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CALL 456 2981

jam from Germany, and the North Americans gave
us the nickname "Krauts". I know why, and I am
not angry about that. We really do eat a lot of cab-
bage, not to mention our famous sauerkraut. In
Germany, in autumn we buy cabbage in ten-kilo bags.
The first ten kilos are gone within two weeks, then we
buy the next ten kilos, which last a bit longer.
If cabbage is available for a good price, we make
sauerkraut aboard Angelos. It needs to ferment for at
least six weeks. We have done this in Venezuela and in
the Pacific. If anyone is interested I can give the recipe,
which is as easy as the salad recipe given below.
Contact me at syangelos@web.de
The following recipes are easy to make onboard, and
they really taste nice. You should try them.
Bavarian Cabbage
1 small white cabbage (or half of a large one)
5 Tablespoons vegetable oil
1 teaspoon sugar
1 onion
1 heaped teaspoon caraway seeds
1 teaspoon salt
1 to 2 Cups water
2 Tablespoons vinegar
2 teaspoons flour (approximately)
1/2 Cup of water
Quarter the cabbage, cut out the core, take off the

7 whole cloves
1 piece of cinnamon
2 pieces of star anise
2 teaspoons flour
1/2 cup of water
5 Tablespoons goose fat (if available)
Quarter the cabbage, cut out the core, take off the
dirty leaves from the outside, leave the quartered head
together, and cut the cabbage in small strips, about
2 to 3 mm thick.
Cut the onions into pieces.
Peel the apple, quarter it, and take out the core.
Then cut the apple into thin pieces.
Put the oil in a large pot with the sugar and heat
: -........ ....til the sugar melts and starts to get
SNow reduce the heat and DO NOT
STOP stirring.
Add the onions and pieces of apples, and stir quick-
ly for a short time.
Next add the red cabbage, and immediately add the
vinegar to give the cabbage its nice colour.
Add the water, salt, cloves, cinnamon and star
anise. Stir, cover the pot, reduce the heat as low as
possible, and let simmer for about 20 to 30 minutes,
until tender.
In a cup, mix the flour with the water till all the
lumps are gone. Then add it to the cabbage, and stir
to thicken the mixture.


by Angelika Gruener

dirty leaves from the outside, leave the quartered head
together, and cut the cabbage in small strips, about 3
mm thick.
Cut the onions into pieces.
Put the oil in a large pot with the sugar and heat
S-...... .... til the sugar melts and starts to get
II 1 I .. Now reduce the heat and DO NOT
STOP stirring.
Add the onions and caraway seeds, and stir quickly.
The onions will get brown. (If they get black, the fire
was too hot throw everything away and start
Add the cabbage, and stir till everything is mixed up
nicely, about 2 minutes.
Add salt and water, stir, put a lid on, reduce the heat
as low as possible, and let simmer for about 20 to 30
When the cabbage is tender, add the vinegar.
In a cup, mix the flour with the water till all the
lumps are gone. Then add .1 1 i1. .1 i ,. stirring to
thicken the mixture. The 1" ..... I ,,, lepends on
how much liquid you have with the cabbage.
We ,i 1..- I varian Cabbage with mashed pota-
toes ... i 1 .,, i eggs per serving. This also tastes
very nice with some bacon.
Red Cabbage
1 small red cabbage
1 onion
1 apple
5 Tablespoons vegetable oil
1 teaspoon sugar
3 Tablespoons vinegar
1 to 2 Cups water
1 teaspoon salt

Both of the recipes above will taste much better if
they are prepared in the morning or a day before, and
just heated up again for dinner. But if you prepare
the cabbage a day before consuming, then keep it in
the fridge.
And what about a salad from white cabbage? Here
comes the recipe:
1/2 large white cabbage
1 teaspoon salt
Juice of one lemon or lime, or 2 Tablespoons vinegar
1i -,. :.. .r
1/ 1.. .. ... ,to small pieces
2 tablespoons of butter melted till hot, OR 5 strips
streaky bacon cut into small pieces and heated up in
a frying pan till crispy and the grease swims in the
pan, OR 1 Tablespoon good mayonnaise
Quarter the cabbage, cut out the core, take off the
dirty leaves from the outside, leave the quarter head
together, and cut the cabbage in very thin strips,
about 1 to 2 mm thick.
i, 1. -1., i i i -. .11. the salt in a bowl and
kr. I 1 I ,, ., I I ....ckles energetically for
about 3 to 5 minutes. If the cabbage is fresh, then its
juice will appear. Very good! Here you can exercise
'-in"- it m ans knead hard! The better you knead,
11. 1 11. cabbage will become.
Add the vinegar or lemon juice, sugar, and the
onion. Stir all up, and leave it for half an hour, maybe
in the fridge.
Melt the butter till it starts foaming, or fry the
streaky bacon. Pour it (the bacon pieces with all the
fat) over the salad, and stir all nicely.
Tell me how you like it!

aIOrftj n1o$ uih Haitur. A Ji'a

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SA G 5LO065. I
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VHF OS TELFAX (784) 458 $918 cap dine rtls rt orm

O e frm1 ,,- -- pm Sp. to l, pm

Tel (784)^ 430r 8630]



5 7.1=

Tel: 481.3200 Fax: 481.3202

*ouswoo SONY c t r
oPanasonic SMARP 0 COsco OzAer

Basil's Bar


Visitors to Mustique are invited to:
T I T I '. I I .1 T1 T 1 I 1 i , 1 I f.1 ld' ITen
I I I I I I I I tew face
S I I I I II I I I I I and
I I I II ,I I c I ,I II I , I I an d
,I I I I I I I ,I I I I I I ,I I I I I I q e
Blues sval takes place Januay 27 FAmary 10, 2010. II I
Lmch 11 00am 6pm, and Dinner 730 mltilate. Come i I I I I ,. 1I
to attend the Wednesday Niht J8mp Up and BBQ. Call (784) 488-8350 or VHP 68.

i I I I I I I I I

S i i i i to
, jewery.

BASIES GREAT GENERAL STORE: There is nothing general about Basil's Great General
Store. B. f 11 1 .1 1 French wmnes, cheese from Europe, gomet jams and sauces.
T + I -nul icolecton of books notto be missed. Fne foods mi Paracse.

ACROSS FOREVTT I 1 wth antiques from Bah and India.
Across forever has 'II Ii from Asia and beyond, contemporary
1-- f mas, I I accessories and more. Slppmn is easily and
I I CaI I I C,
Visitors to St Vincent are invited to:
BASIESBA I 1 I I 18thce-, 1 11 --- 111 ---- Ar
con t I, I I 1 r1 I I II ealsare
some of the Lest on t e islar I ii i II e II' I' I
ill 1 opened fill service SPA located n Villa across from Young Island. Also At
II oeauhfd bamboo fLnmture, contemporary pieces from Asia and beyond,
and more. December 2009 Opening of a new coffee shop by the sea.
Call (784) 456-2602

Visit Basil's in Mustique or St. Vincent
www.basilsbar.com basils@vincysurfcom

Read in Next Month's Compass:

So Much, So Little: San Blas

A Grenadines Diving Diary

Panama Canal Without Panic

... and much more!

4;pjzlity Frvdwct3


Fennel is an herb that isn't used much in the Caribbean because of its limited
availability, but it is worth seeking it out at specialty shops. I found mine growing at
a nursery in Aranguez, Trinidad.
Fennel is an attractive addition to my herb garden and spice shelf. It has a thick,
perennial rootstock and can grow to five feet tall (not exactly suitable for growing
aboard!), with an erect cylinder of bright green, smooth leaves. Every part of fennel is
edible and it is considered both herb and spice. The swollen leaf base, or bulb, is
eaten, and the seeds are used f-r fl--in Ti, i ... i ,,. i .I..i,
has a delicate aniseed flavor ,, I .. ..... i ,. i .... i i .
are used by French and Italian cooks in fish sauces and in mayonnaise. Fennel is an
ingredient of Chinese Five Spices and of some curry powders.
Fennel contains manganese, calcium, potassium, magnesium, phosphorus, and
vitamin C.


Fennel originated around the Mediterranean, and is now grown worldwide where
climate permits. Fennel prefers hot dry, sunny conditions, yet can adapt. It was well
known to the ancient Greeks who used it as a digestive remedy; it will reduce gas
and stomach cramps. Ancients believed fennel seed helpful in eyesight, particularly
curing nearsightedness. Fennel was once used to increase breast milk. In mediaeval
times this herb was hung above doors to ward off evil spirits. Early New England
Puritans chewed the seeds during town or church meetings, and fennel seeds are
still used in India as an after-dinner breath freshener. Fennel is also thought to curb
hunger great for dieters. It is even reputed to stimulate strength and courage, and
increase the eater's life span.
Roasted Garlic and Fennel
3 heads garlic, peeled
2 fennel bulbs, sliced
1 bunch chives, chopped SI "
1/2 hot pepper, seeded and minced (optional)
pinch of salt
1 Tablespoon oil (canola preferred)
Place - -1- 1 .1- bulbs and sliced fennel on a piece of foil and add chives, pepper,
salt, an, .1I ., I...n ... I put in an ovenproof dish. Bake at 350F for half an
hour. Seve as 1 1. 1. or bread.
Roasted Fennel
2 fennel bulbs, sliced
1 to 2 Tablespoons oil (canola preferred)
1 Tablespoon balsamic vinegar
In a bowl, stir fennel slices with oil and ... .. ....1.1 they are coated. Transfer
to an ovenproof dish and bake uncovered I utes at 400. Serve warm
with roasted meats or fowl, or toss with steamed vegetables such as green beans
or broccoli.
Potato and Fennel Casserole
4 Tablespoons butter
2 pounds Irish potatoes, washed clean
1 fennel bulb
pinch grated fresh nutmeg
salt to taste
1/2 hot pepper, seeded and minced (optional)
1 Cup milk
1/2 Cup grated cheddar cheese
Slice fennel bulb and potatoes very thinly. Place half of the slices in a greased
ovenproof dish and give them a dash of nutmeg and salt, and hot pepper if you
choose. Cover with milk. Place more slices on top and cover with grated cheese.
Cover dish with foil and bake at 350F for 45 minutes. Uncover and bake 15 minutes
longer to let cheese turn golden brown.
Rice and Fennel Cake
2 Cups milk
1 Cup cooked rice
2 fennel bulbs, peeled and chopped small
1/2 Cup brown sugar
4 eggs
1 Tablespoon butter
2 to 3 Tablespoons baker's flour
In a suitable pot, scald the milk and stir in the rice
and fennel pieces. Simmer for half an hour before r
stirring in the -":.r P- ve from heat. Mix in one
egg at a time. - I..... the flour. Spoon mixture
into a greased cake pan and bake covered at 350F
for 45 minutes. Uncover and bake 10 more minutes.
Cool before serving.
For the Gardener
Since fennel grows so tall and can survive for years,
place it where it will not shade or interfere with your
other plants. A few plants about 20 inches apart are
all that's : - .. 11 . .. household. Plant
seeds an ... i. .. ..11 I ... well-worked soil.
Fennel doesn't require much attention or water. A
warning: fennel will cross-pollinate with dill weed, so
do not plant these two herbs close together as their flavors will be dulled. After about
four months collect the flowers before the seeds ripen. When dry, shake the seeds on
to a white cloth. Pick fresh leaves and harvest the bulbs as needed.

Backstage at Larston's Lobsters

by Karen Kleppa

I close my eyes and melt with the taste of barbecued
lobster. It seems to just dissolve in my mouth. I'm on
the beach in the Tobago Cays. There's a mound of
lobster in front of my friends and me. The garlic pota-
toes are heavenly. For someone that doesn't usually
like cooked vegetables, I can't seem to get enough of
them. Around me the palm trees whisper against the
sky and the waves softly lick the shore. An iguana
runs through the bushes a few yards from the picnic
tables. As the light fades, the candles on the tables are
lit. Can one have it any better than this? Carolyn on
Windborne III was right. When I told her where and
what I was having for dinner she said, "You lucky
person; Larston's lobsters are to die for!" She was
right. And I ask Larston what his special ingredient is
and he smiles....
Larston and his boat Velocity II Lordag are a familiar
sight to many around the Tobago Cays and Union
Island. Having crewed a couple times across the
Atlantic on both Swedish and Belgian boats, Larston
was one of the first to start doing barbecues in the
Cays some ten years ago. What started as helping
charter skippers create something special for their
guests has caught on.
In Kahlil Gibran's The Prophet I've read that "work is
love made visible". Both Larston and all the others
who run the barbecues in the Cays have given plea-
sure to many through the years with their activities
on the beach. Last season I got to go "backstage" for
a few weeks and see what all goes into creating these
special meals.
The days start EARLY. Larston and his nephew
Glenroy are down at the harbor in Union just after the
sun comes up, cleaning their boat and getting it ready.
By 8:30 or 9:00AM Vee (and for a while I) has made the
rounds of the grocery stores and fresh produce booths
to get all the vegetables, fruits, garlic, spices and
everything else we will need for the day and to make
all the dinners. Sometimes they know ahead of time
"approximately" how many dinners there will be if
people have ordered in advance. But most often they
just have to guess at it and it's a long way to the
1- t tore once we have gotten to the Cays.
S.. Petite Martinique to pick up the fresh
lobsters from the fishermen Larston has fishing for
him there, then it's over to Mayreau to pick up a huge
sack of charcoal.
"'1, i l 1' .ys we raft up with the others
1. i, I ., ,, but got there earlier than us,
and we wait our turn to approach the newly arriving
yachts. Especially since the Cays became a marine
park, all the people offering different services to the
visitors have devised a system of who gets to approach
whom and when.
Lunchtime. We make it right there on the water,
rafted up. Food gets passed around to the others rafted
up. This really is a day on the water (no biminis here).
By late afternoon we have visited three boats and
have orders for eight dinners. Sometimes people want
to have the meals delivered to their boat. But today

everyone wants to eat on shore. It's time to head for
the beach and start ipr-'r 1.n. the food. The potatoes
get boiled first . 1.. I then cut and grilled.
Glenroy starts cleaning the lobsters. Vee, Larston and
I start cutting up all the vegetables. Garlic butter is
one of the main ingredients, and it takes a quite a
while to grate by hand all we will need.
There's a special atmosphere. This evening there are
four others also preparing food and1 Vb..i- the two
grills. If one person doesn't have ... i., I.I they
borrow from someone who does. Everyone i- .
mood. It's a happy, lively bunch making I"".'
more than 20 people. Everyone runs their own "busi-
ness" but they are all working together. Nice!
Just before sunset most of the guests have arrived
and found places at the picnic tables. It's always a
pleasure to present the huge platters of lobsters and
hear all the oohs and aahhs. The food looks scrump-
tious and smells even better. It's heartwarming to
make things people like and appreciate. There is a fes-
tive atmosphere on the beach. No one goes away hun-
gry, that's for sure.

Glenroy, Vee, Karen and Larston adding
the special ingredient
By the time all the guests have eaten and left, all the
dishes done, the garbage collected, the boats loaded
up with equipment, utensils, pots and pans, it's late
and dark dark dark. The boat ride back to Union goes
under starry skies.
I've learned what Larston's "special ingredient" is
that makes his food so good. Its just like The Prophet
said: work is LOVE made visible. Enjoy!

N U RAN t t

A S oOjal rtouC

SYWar foundd coverage

Admiral Marine Limited

r 41 Q'1722 416O Fa. ,a O17fl 32455

Stock Up

on the widest selection and the

best prices in Grenada at our two

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Whether it's canned goods, dairy

products, meat, fresh vegetables

or fruits, toiletnes, household goods,

or a fine selection of liquor and wine,

The Food Fair has it all and a lot more




The Carenage:
Monday Thursday
8 am to 5:30 pm
Friday until 8:45 pm
Saturday until
1:00 pm
Tel: (473) 440-2588
Grand Anse:
Monday Thursday
9 am to 5:30 pm
Friday & Saturday
until 7:00 pm
Tel: (473) 444-4573

Real sailors use Street's Guides for inter-island and harbor
piloting directions, plus interesting anecdotes of people,
places and history. Street's Guides are the only ones that
describe ALL the anchorages in the Eastern Caribbean.
NEW! Street's vdeos, first made in 1985,
are now back as DVDs.
* "Transatlantic with Street" documents a sailing passage
from Ireland to Antigua via the Cape Verdes. 2 hours
* "Antgua Week '85" is the story of the engineless yawl lolaire
racing round the buoys to celebrate her 80th birthday. 1 hour
* "Street on Knots" demonstrates the essential knots and
line-handling skills every sailor should know. 1 hour
* "Streetwise 1 and 2" give tips that appeared in the popular video
Sailing Quarterly, plus cruises in the Grenadines, Venezuela and
southwest coast of Ireland
DVDs available at Imray, Kelvin Hughes, Armchair Sailor/
Bluewater Books, and www.street-iolaire.com.
Full information on DVDs at www.street-lolaire.com
HURRICANE TIPS! Visit www.street-iolaire.com for a wealth of
information on tracking and secunng for a storm.
Street's Guides and DVDs are available
at all Island Waterworld stores and at Johnson's Hardware,
or from www.iUniverse.com and www.seabooks.com


to tell our advertisers you

saw their ad in Compass!

Rocks don't move or if they do they are shown on
up-to-date Imray charts. Regarding marine
infrastructure, virtually every island puts out a free
marine trade guide every year, which is much more
up-to-date than any guide; similarly, the tourist
departments put out a free annual guide for bars,
restaurants and hotels.
With all these updates readily available,
Street's guides are timeless.

For a st sale to European buyers,

list your boat with us in US$


I have been connected with the marine insurance
business for 47 years. I have developed a rapport
with brokers and underwriters at Lloyds and am
able to introduce boat owners to specialist brokers
in the Lloyds market.
e-mail: streetiolaire@hotmail.com
S www.street-iolaire.com

Pat s R airs -s.nvice

Dear Compass,
MAYAG would like to thank the crew on S/V Cheetah
II for their kind words in the November issue of
Compass about the Royal Grenada Police Force and in
particular Detective Garcia and his team. So often only
the negative items are shared. Mindful of this, the
Marine and Yachting Association of Grenada (MAYAG)
sought to draw the published letter to the attention of
the relevant authorities.
MAYAG wishes to publicly thank Detective Garcia
and team for the efforts taken to follow up with com-
munication and information as he clearly managed to
turn a negative incident into a positive one. Grenada
and MAYAG know that safety and security are a prime
factor when those on yachts decide where to go, and
to have such a glowing testimony to Grenada's law
enforcement officers is a great benefit for our indus-
try. All our marketing and promotional efforts are
worthless if our clients do not feel they can remain
safely in Grenada.
Laura Fletcher, MAYAG

Dear Compass,
Thanks again for publishing my letter about trying to
import our dog Darwin ii. .. .......... November
issue. In Grenada I got I... 1 i -.. reactions
from other dog owners. We also appreciate the reaction
from John J. Duffy, President of the Antigua &
Barbuda Marine Association. His comments didn't
really clarify anything, but he invited yachtspeople
who experienced problems to contact him at info@
abma.ag. Having written and sent a huge letter about
our Jolly Harbour experience to the chief of the
Antiguan agriculture i I .. i... i11. .. ...... any-
thing back, we tried c ... i.. i .i. i. i .11 sent
a copy of the long, explanatory e-mail of our experi-
ences to him a few weeks ago.
At the moment, we are in St. Lucia, where we had
another unsatisfactory experience checking Darwin
in. Dogs are now allowed to be (temporarily?) import-
ed into St. Lucia and we did so successfully four
months ago. At that time, in Rodney Bay, a govern-
ment vet came to our boat, Irie, to inspect Darwin,
scan his microchip, check his paperwork and issue a
permit, all for the price of EC$45. All was done in a
professional manner and we didn't regret going
through all the hassle and time to check our dog
in. Plus, we now had a good experience in St. Lucia
and we would come back.
A week ago, we hoped to go through the same pro-
cess with our dog, but in Soufriere this time, arriving
to St. Lucia from the south. We had e-mailed the gov-
ernment vet in charge, Dr. King, weeks before arriving
to see whether all formalities could be done in
Soufriere and to confirm the cost. We never heard
back from her.
An hour after finishing our own formalities, Mark
,,i .1 .. and picked ui .. -i- lt- .1 :- -
S .. , dered by the I( ....- 11. l ,, I
brought him to Irie to "see" our dog. This person
looked at Darwin, 1 ... 1 through his paperwork and
.... i,,,- 11 veterinary inspected and
1 1 i on one of the sheets and that
was it. No scanning of the microchip, no touching the
dog, no official permit. We had to pay him EC$95 -
twice as much as the amount four months ago and
without a receipt. That amount had been negotiated
down from the EC$150 he initially wanted to charge.
Since when are government fees negotiable? And how
did this amount rise so steeply in a few
months? Questions we asked in an e-mail to Dr. King,
who hasn't yet gotten back to us.
So, we feel it is impossible to do this dog check-in
procedure "right", no matter how hard you try. It
would be a challenge to write an article about dog
impc. i . ,,1 .1 .... I .... i, .ribbean with all
the .",H .i.. ... .... .. .. find online and
giver, ... I ., I -.. ........ experiences we

have had. That's probably why it never has been
done or why the little information you find is out-
dated and incorrect.
I just wanted to share this information and hope
you understand our ongoing frustrations about
legally taking our dog to the Caribbean islands. It
becomes clearer to us every time why so few other
cruisers bother.
Keep up the good work at Caribbean Compass!
Liesbet Collaert

Hi there, Compass Readers,
Just to let you know that Martinique is experiencing
the same crime problem as many of the other islands.
Please be more careful.
We were in the marina at Le Marin, Martinique, hav-
ing some last minor repairs done to our yacht under
the Lagoon warranty. One ... 1., 27th November, at
round 2:30AM, Joe said he : n n. boat move. A little
later, heb .. i n ...i Someone had boarded our
boat! Thi .,- ,. ,1 ,I boat is tied on a pontoon
at a marina.
J.-.- --t i and saw a man sitting on the inside step
to ... I1 .". He called to me t( I the camera, as
there was someone on the boat. i' he opened the
door to confront the man, the noise of the lock alerted
the guy, and he got up and jumped off the boat, and
just walked away (such a cheek!). When he looked
back and saw the camera (which he probably thought
was a firearm), he began to run. We could not get a
picture of him, but did report this to the marina staff,
and they in turn reported it to the police. We did give
'.-m f.i-l- --1 -.-ritn of the guy. Apparently
I....- i .. i .... I ..- had happened, and they
were getting closer to finding the offender.
We checked to see if anything was taken, and fortu-
nately the only thing that was actually taken and
eaten we found the peels were all the bananas! A
large plastic box containing our shoes is normally kept
at the entrance to the yacht, below the steps. This was
open, and the boarder had neatly lined up all Joe's
shoes in pairs, perhaps to see which ones he wanted.
Luckily he was disturbed before he made up his mind.
This box of shoes happens to be the only thing left out
at night when we lock up. Now we bring that in too!
Two nights later, 29th November 2009, we were
anchored out in Le Marin bay, and almost the same
thing happened. Joe woke up to disturb a guy who had
swum out to us, and was trying to steal our dinghy. He
got a fright, left his wet shirt in the dinghy, and swam
away. Try as we might, we could not see him in the
dark he must have been able to hold his breath for
an awful long time! He was not able to take the dinghy
because we had it locked to the yacht with quite a
heavy chain. W e .. .- ...i .. i i i i -
secure because .. i i i ,,, i
of thing happening. It just sucks to have it happen to
us as well!
Joe and Mercia
Yacht Free to Be

Dear Compass Readers,
Imray is in the process of re-drawing the following
A 231, 232 US and British Virgin Islands
B 26 Barbuda
E 5 Bermuda
A 234 St. Croix
Please check your charts and send any corrections
and/or suggestions on improving them to me at
streetiolaire@hotmail. com.
We are particularly interested in seeing corrections
to the St. George's, Bermuda blow-up, as we have
heard a megayacht berth has been established.
Many thanks,
Don Street

Dear Compass,
Thanks very much for letting us see Caribbean
Compass magazine on-line. I have been able to pass
the link to other people who otherwise wouldn't see the
Anne Dunlop
Freya of Clyde

Dear Compass Readers,
We want to hear from YOU!
Please include your name, boat name or shoreside
address, and a way we can contact you (preferably by
e-mail) if clarification is required.
We do not publish individual consumer complaints or
individual regatta results complaints. (Kudos are okay!)
We do not publish anonymous letters; however, your
name may be withheld from print at your request.
Letters may be edited for length, clarity and fair play.
Send your letters to:
Compass Publishing Ltd.
Readers' Forum
Box 175BQ
Bequia VC0400
St. Vincent & the Grenadines



by Ann Wl'torforrnr-
A yacht named Kersti, a monohull much like ours, ., -1. .... a light. A few minutes later another light
was holed and sank the other night while on a passage suddenly appeared maybe a quarter mile off.
from the San Blas islands to Cartagena, Colombia. The Other items for the worry list include logs washed
crew in their liferaft was safely picked up by another down rivers, and whales .i1 1 ,, i I hit a whale I'd
yacht, Jupiter's Smile, which was sailing on a similar consider that it had the and I had just
-~r- P;t r---H V -n- :n ---ith it, I'm sure, the drawn the wrong card).
... I ..... I as well as all their Of course we stand watches all night, along the coast
personal stuff.
Then, a day later, on the Northwest Caribbean Net
came the report from another vessel that had in view
a i *. white ship's mooring" measuring about 15 by
20 i i drifting around on the rhumb line from San
Blas to Cartagena. The report was radioed in and course we
apparently will reach a US Coast Guard vessel in the Of course we stand watches
area, which will deal with the obstacle.
I remember one of the most frightening nights of my all night But it's impossible
life years ago, in our former boat, Arion, somewhere rl ut t' im s i
in mid-Atlantic. We were rollicking along, headlong
into one of the darkest (but starriest) nights imagin- to see everything
able. All I could think of was a report I'd heard about
a nu'l I1- f f-i .- t1 -- ntainers that had suppos-
edly II I i -f r:- i-' n t- --
I was certain l 11 .. I . i . .
about two fe< i ,, I .... i ,
upon it at any moment. I was miserable until sunrise,
and then, although the containers may still have been and offshore. But it's impossible to see everything. We
there, I regained my balance, place a lot of faith in the odds that whatever danger
I've buried those particular containers under a pile lurks ahead is not directly ahead on the little line we
of other things I might worry about. The other night we draw across the ocean. For the men in the unlit lancha
were moving along the coast of mainland Honduras on it worked out, for Kersti, it didn't. For us... well, it
a mainly clear but moonless night. There was a rock remains to be seen. I'm expecting the best.
and a reefy area to avoid, and an isolated rain squall There is an Arab proverb to the effect that you don't
whose boundaries I checked on radar. As it passed, a truly own anything that you can lose at sea.
persistent little blip remained just behind us, and as I
looked for it, a light went on. Apparently we had Ann Westergard and Doug Brown are cruising the
nearly run over an unlit fishing boat, provoking him Caribbeoan aboard the Valiant 40 Galivant.


5 n.j P 5 P E (y E C 1,
S E I A E P ES v 0 F

,\ A' E I C RP/U M,, V C P E T
R E R DC L 11 0 r L
u G E 3 U S a o 0 1Id A B
3 R S 1 3 R 5 T M M A
N 1 E' B r f IE A E r Fd
o P L C E E i
L i n 0 R f E 2 J I. i I R
A w kF E N 5 F E T A S
A A V 5 : P 5 I D, 0 J_ 1
(i E % IC, C) E 1 I 01 H U S

We're on the Web!
Caribbean Compass

On-line FREE




Long life.

I ""[ *r999 9 "

Antgu Gread St Joh St Thma T ee ortl
Marine P Servi' ces GeaaM rn Crlh B ay M n ll Pi t M E t ri cs *

En lsh HarbourSt. David's Coral Bay P M w ortola

** Be *P : I- P 8 -
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St. Thomas, U.S.V.I. 00802

La Creole 50' 1978 Gulfstar
Ketch. Well maintained
classic, 3 strms, $145,000

Summer Place 44' 1985
Beneteau Idylle, Great Cruiser,
AP, AC, Genset $86,000

36' 1980 Albin Stratus, Cruiser or 6 pack charter vessel
41' 1980 Morgan Out Islander AC, great condition
46' 2000 Jeanneau twin helms, 3 staterooms
49' 1979 Transpacific Ketch, Bluewater, 3 strms, loaded


26' 1987 Whale Boat Navy Capts gig, Perkins, 4109 $33,000
29' 1994 Phoenix SF, Twin Volvos, trim tabs, outriggers $64,500
32' 1996 Carver 325 Twin Crusaders, great condition $59,900
36'1980 Litton Trawler, Yanmar diesels, Gen Set $30,000
40' 1999 Tiara 4000 Express, Genset, AC, Twin Cats $275,000
Call, fax or visit our website for a complete list of boats for sale

IMULTIHULLS: 42'8eneteau423'04,BestPrkiced 423 119K
82'DufourNautitech'95,10cab/lOhd 795K .1; T,,,n,a * kllsl eu.,pr,'.- kepf 99K
46' FP Bahia'01,Many Updates 349K 4 I'Formosa C7 41 ?4 Well Equipped 110K
45' Robertson & Caine 99,Well kept 309K 40' Beneteau M-405'95, Grt. Price 89K
41' Lagoon 410'01,Great Price 215K 40'Yeneteau 40 CC'97; SolarandWind 99K
41'Lagoon410'06Great Revenue 380K 41 64 .-.ri, ,ao-* :.... E....p,: 87K
37' Maxim Yachts'99, Strong Fast 160K 4(1 Beneleau 40 CC 00O Immarulate 130K
SAIL, 40'ExeMarineC-Farer II'82,WorldCrsr. 39K
54'HylasDeckSalon.OO.LuxuryCrsr 645K 39'Beneteau 3932005;Wel-Priced 125K
S'Morgan/CSY Custom8 Loaded 159K 39 Grand Soleil'87Veby Well Equipd 129K
jl AI,r...-.un. '. 0.i SL., I E.]r, 1') 379K 38i'Hlbeig-Ry382a87. Strong 125K
47 V3g.abond 1980 LoowLow PrLe 139K .'v)r'.. ..r. .-j, 15i ."v ., 54K
46' Morgan 461 '79, Solid, Great Price 79K 14 leanneau'OI.Perfect pocket crsr 59K
45'WauquiezMS45.90, Pilothouse 169K 32 Bavaria'03;Great Condition /Price 64K
45' Downeaster'79, Rare Schooner 139K
45'Jeanneau 45.1 99 Great Prce 109K POWER:
45'Jeanneau 45.200, Immaculate 189K 63'JohnsonMotorYacht'91 Luxury 375K
44'Freedom 44'82, Rare, Great Shape 99K 52'JeffersonTrawler'89;4cab/4hd 149K
4. Hun Ji ', A-.i,ua Gr P..-e 89K 48'Sunseeker Manhattan'97,3cb/2hd 325K
43 loung Sun 79.Lotsorequpmenl 70K 48'TarquinTrader485 Sig. Beautiful 269K
42 CSY 87'Center CkptMany Upgrades 69K 46 Bertram 46.6 Sport Cruiser'81 99K
42 Halberg-Rassy HR-42E'84, Refi 160K 30'Bayliner 305'06, Only 80hrs 89K
42'Albin Nimbus'81 Cutter 75K 26'GlacierBay2680;(2)Yamaha ISOHP 69K
42'IslndPacket420,1lminaculate 320K www.bviyachtsales.com

Ahoy, Compass Readers! When in Bequia, pick up your free monthly copy of
the Caribbean Compass at any of these locations (advertisers in this issue
appear in bold):

Bequia Bookshop /
Bequia Post Office -,.
Bequia Tourism Assn.
Bequia Venture
De Reef Restaurant
Doris Fresh Food
Fernando's Hideaway
Frangipani Hotel
Friendship Rose Office
Grenadine Sails
Lulley's Tackle
Mac's Pizzeria
PortHole Restaurant
Tradewinds Cruise Club
W&W Supermarket
Wallace & Co.


1 New Year's Day. Public holiday or "recovery day" in many places.
Junkanoo parade in Abaco, Bahamas
1 3 St. Croix Christmas Festival Parades. www.stxfestival.com
2 Public holiday in Cuba (Victory of Armed Forces Day), Haiti
(Founding Fathers Day), St Kitts & Nevis (Carnival Day), St. Lucia and
Grenada (Second New Year's Day)
6 Three Kings Day. Public holiday in many places
6 World ARC 2010/11 starts in St. Lucia.
8- 10 French Regional Marine Mammal Stranding Workshop, Guadeloupe.
11 17 17th Annual Barbados Jazz Festival. www.barbadosjazzfestival.com
11 20 St. Barts Music Festival. www.stbartsmusicfestival.org
13- 16 Carriacou Sailing Series. www.sailingcarriacou.com
17 Women's Cup Regatta, Martinique. Yacht Club de la Martinique (YCM),
tel (596) 63 26 76, fax (596) 63 94 48, ycmqdwanadoo.fr
18 Martin Luther King Day. Public holiday in Puerto Rico and USVI
21 Errol Barrow Day; public holiday in Barbados. Our Lady of Altagracia;
public holiday in Dominican Republic
21 24 St. Maarten-St. Martin Classic Yacht Regatta. www.ClassicRegatta.com
22 St. Thomas USVI Blues Festival. http://stevesimonpresents.com
23 24 Around Antigua Race. Antigua Yacht Club (AYC), tel/fax (268) 460-1799,
yachtclub@candw.ag, www.antiguayachtclub.com
24 28 41st Spice Island Billfish Tournament, Grenada. www.sibtgrenada.com
24 30 Jamaica Jazz & Blues Festival, Montego Bay.
25 Duarte's day. Public holiday in Dominican Republic
27 30 Antigua Superyacht Cup. AYC
27 10 Feb 15th Annual Mustique Blues Festival. www.basilsbar.com
28 31 Bequia Music Fest. See ad on page 13
29 2 Feb Port Louis Grenada Sailing Festival. See ad on page 5
29- 6 Feb 16th Guadeloupe International Film Festival.
www.fest21.com/en/feslival/femiinternationalcinemafestivalof guadeloupe
30-31 Budget Marine Women's Caribbean Championships, St. Maarten.
St. Maarten Yacht Club (SMYC), tel (599) 544-2075, fax (599) 544-2091,
info@smyc.com, www.smyc.com


2 World Wetlands Day
4 7 Club Nautico de San Juan International Regatta, Puerto Rico.
www.nauticodesanjuan.com /sailingprogram/regattaint.htm
5 Pineapple Cup Montego Bay Race, Jamaica.
6-7 Digicel Workboat Regatta, Grenada. See ad on page 5
6-7 Gill St Maarten Keelboat Championships, SMYC
6- 16 5th La Route du Carnival rally, Martinique to Trinidad.
7 Independence Day. Public holiday in Grenada
12 15 32nd Annual Sweethearts of the Caribbean and
28th Annual Classic Yacht Regatta, Tortola. tel (284) 495-4559.
12- 16 20th Semaine Nautique Schoelcher, Martinique.
13-14 Budget Marine Valentines Regatta, Antigua. Jolly Harbour Yacht Club
(JHYC), Antigua. tel (268) 770-6172, miramarsailing@hotmail.com,
13- 15 Carnival Regatta, Martinique. Club Nautique Le Neptune (CNN),
Martinique, tel (596) 51 73 24, fax (596) 51 73 70,
14 Sunshine School Fundraising Auction, Bequia. www.bequiasunshineschool.org
15- 16 Carnival Monday and Tuesday in most Dutch and French islands, Haiti,
Puerto Rico, Dominica, Carriacou, Trinidad & Tobago, Venezuela,
and other places
15 Presidents' Day. Public holiday in Puerto Rico and USVI
17 Ash Wednesday. Public holiday in Cayman Islands and Jamaica
19-21 St. Croix Yacht Club Hospice Regatta. See ad on page 15
19-21 Tobago Carnival Regatta. www.sailweek.com
22 Independence Day. Public holiday in St. Lucia
22 26 RORC Caribbean 600 Offshore Race, Antigua. caribbean600.rorc.org
26 28 South Grenada Regatta. See ad on page 20
27 Around St. Maarten-St. Martin Multihull Regatta.
27 Independence Day. Public holiday in the Dominican Republic
27- 28 Around Martinique Race (2 legs). CNN

All information was correct to the best of our knowledge
at the time this issue of Compass went to press but plans change,
so please contact event organizers directly for confirmation,
If you would like a nautical or tourism event listed FREE in our monthly cal-
endar, please send the name and dates) of the event and the name
and contact information of the organizing body to

FREE Caribbean Compass On-line FREE


C ribb a C o p s M ar e PIe I

111 MgIa

M.3 r -i1 ln g. 4d-.e -It1,inq, Co nsu Ita ricy,
Design, Pr, ei.-g.srapiy A Art,
www.thelucy.com *1 268 720 6868

A Safe Haven for Yachtsmen
Secure storage on concrete
Direct flights to Europe & North Amenca
E: info@jhmarina.com
W: www.jhmarina.com


Providing all vital services to
Trans-Atlantic Yachts!
Incl. Chandlery, Charts, Pilots, Rigging
EU-VAT (14%) importation
Duty free fuel (+10.0001t)
TEL +351 292 391616 FAX +351 292 391656


appointed agents in
St. Vincent & the Grenadines for

Primer, Epoxy, Top Coat,
Antifouling, Thinners
Tel: 784 458 3319 Fax: 784 458 3000
Email: bequiaventure@vincysurf.com

& Shoreline Mini-Market
We serve breakfast,
lunch and dinner
Phone (784) 458-3458
A friendly atmosphere where you can sit and meet people.
Admiralty Bay, Bequia
Noelina & Lennox Taylor welcome you!


Bequia, St. Vincent
Phone: 1 (784) 457-3000


Book it now:
tom@ caribbeancompass.com
or contact your local island agent

Roseau & Portsmouth
Tel 767448-2705 Fax 767-448-7701
DockmasterTel 767-275-2851 VHF 16
info@dominicamannecenter com
Swww dominicamannecenter com
The Dominica Marine Center is the
home of the Dominica Yacht Club
/ and your center for
* Yacht Moonng Anchorage Grocery Store & Provisioning
* Bakery (Sukie's Bread Company) Water at dock Fuel
(Unleaded / Diesel) Ice Yacht Chandlery agents Budget
Manne /Sea Choice Products Mercury Manne / Yanmar Manne
* LP Gas (propane) refills Showers & Toilets (WC) Garbage
Disposal Secunty Telephone & Fax Mobile Phone Rental /
SIM Top Up Laundry WiFi Internet Beach Bar Nearby
Restaurants Taxi & Tour Operators Whale Watching & Sport
Fishing Light Engine and Boat Repair- Customs/ Immigration
Clearance Information Visa/ Master Card accepted


continued on next page -

in Lower Bay, Bequia
* Come and find us among the trees
Candelight Dinners
Monday to Saturday




Land and houses for sale
For full details see our website:
or contact Carolyn Alexander at
Down Island Ltd
e-mail: lslander@caribsurf.com
Tel: (473) 443 8182 Fax: (473) 443 8290

We also handle Villa Rentals &
Property Management on Carriacou

Cirt ea Com as Iare I II

Co poites.PaiLR *JTnts l &a ishes.a'onei bliefsJ
-eak. MElue &Caulleig. Maiteace products

Martinique *(96 ,9662.2



The beM qt wao lean provedd )odir boat
xc- Ammarw & Maria I-.
,I: 44 ~ I' 14 ndl i

Voiles Assistance
Didler and Maria
Sails & Canvas (repairs & fabrication]
located at Carenantilles dockyard
Open Monday to Friday 8-1 2am 2-6pm
Saturday by appointment
tel/fax: (596] 596 74 88 32
e-mail: didier-et-maria@wanadoo.ff

TechNick Ltd.
Engineering, fabrication and
welding. Fabrication and repair of
stainless steel and aluminium items.
Nick Williams, Manager
Tel: (473) 536-1560/435-7887
S.I.M.S. Boatyard, True Blue, Grenada



Fred&dc Moser
Electro-M&canlque & RfridgEration Marine
M rlir du MArl. Morulique

Tel *-96WOJ1d46103 .F .5*~4 sp1ia6663
CSM *S910I6%2 1'989 *
viw rIIna. UEllmmI- .. .L.un : dallu.uiwmadiOJr

Shipchandler. Arlimer
Le Marin. Marlinique
S-"* a

] Marine Electrics
U Watermakers
Installation / Repair
Zac artimer Le Marin, Martinique FWI
Tel: + (596) 596 650 524 Fax: + (596) 596 650 053

Bar Restaurant Deli
Martinique Marin
Opening Happy Hour
Hours from Every Day
7AM-11PM -sI from6- 7PM

Aanuc lay*:
Telephone: 0596 74 60 89
WIFI Connection lor our Guests
www.restauran -mnangoba\.com

St. Maarten


St. Maarten/ St. Martin, collect
and deliver door to door

Packages Pick- up call:
+ (599) 553-3850 / + (590) 690-222473
Int. 001-3057042314
E-mail: ericb@megatropic.com

continued on next page --



tba.N G II [WMXA P 4.2'i

aur bb n C o p s M n r e F" ne


Stainless Steel float fill rimp%
Epoxy Resins
Polyester Resins

a rrow
sails F!, canvas
psa. Boats to.r Westei 04n Rd. Chowa T.~ 'Ld hI
eoe 60 4 415 1F" M22 N Crf" I~~r 1aiiitt I


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Book it now:
or contact your local island agent

4, Hilth I)ufp~iI MArtnhaa" A Regulalov%
.---Chargers & I n~edrt Chafgets
I.--- salarf6 W~ind Synt-u
S batteries Dteicycde & Ctanking

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1975 German Frers 39ft,
2 sets racing sails,US 57.0D0
1981 Cape Dory 30, US
39.0D0, St.Lucia duty paid
20D0 Catana 471, 4 cabin,
460.0D0 Euros
1987 Irwin 44 US 105.0DD0
1992 Dehler 37 CWS,
90.000 Euros
1981 CT 54 US 195.000
2006 Bahia 46, Hi spec
upgrades, lots of extra
equipment with charter
contract, 390.000 Euros
i .... I .- 1 i- II .:1r h.. .

1979 HUGHES 38 Sparkman
and Stevens design.
Cruising Grenada. Ready to
go.US$32 000 ono E-mail
hughes38.1979@ ahoo.com

fiberdass, vgcnew engine 2007,
excellent live aboard and cruser.
GPS, RADAR, VHF, Auto Pilot,
ERRB,SSB, Water Maker,Air-Con,
Sdar Panels, Wind Generator &
more. Ful specs at www.free-
webs.com/venus46forsale Price
reduced for a speedy sale


Well equipped, located in
Becupa. Mae info Eimc

COCHISE, an elegant 39 ft
yacht (1991) and pleasure
to sail is for sale. Noted for
speed, ease to handle, sim-
plicity and Boat of The Year
2007 Trinidad. Cochise is
very well maintained, sailed
only by owner and brought
in from NL on containership.
Ideal boat for comfortable,
fast cruising with family/
friends, and equipped for
club racing. All J-Boats
design weaknesses taken
care of in recent years.
Extensively overhauled with
new mast and rod rigging
(2002), large sail wardrobe,
many extras incl. new
Raymarine autopilot (2007),
well-maintained Harken
winches, 2 anchors + chain,
large sun awning etc.
Interesting pdce of 55,000 US$
reflects current location
(Caribbean) and move to
larger world cruiser. E-mail
Tel (868) 739-6449

IHA ti A', : 'v w' ,

,.1.: d I r," I ,

CO i ..irlilt .ir iCLt arl
B:rE Iti A,. ,i, r it it, : .. r:.-
bulb keel & rudder.
Expanded cockpit, over-
size winches, custom helm,
all new instruments.
Raytheon GPS, speedome-
ter, cockpit mounted chart
plotter, Maxi sail compass.
Completely rewired includ-
ing dual battery system &
circuit breaker panel.
Dry storage past 2 years.
US$3600 Contact Sam Laing,
E-mail laingusvi@gmail.com

h ." r, 1, 1 .- d ,,

tor, new watermaker, bimini
top, cockpit table, 12' Carib
dinghy w/30hp Yamaha.
Lying Grenada. ,.,"::: .....
Tel (473) 459- i .1-

deck stepped, boom,
spreaders, lights, winches
(has been changed for
upgrade) 2000 US OBO
ask for details 758 4528531
e-mail: destsll@candw.lc
DEALS at http://doylecarib-
HULLS Trinidad (868) 650-1914
E-mail JanDutch@tstt.net.tt
INSTRUMENTS. Discount pric-

Recently completed four
CARRIACOU ONE ACRE T ensuite air-conditioned rooms
CARRIACOU, ONE ACRE LOTS n waterfront property avail
and multi acre tracts. Great able for short or long term
views overlooking Southern rental. Panoramic view of
Grenadines and Tyrrel Bay Admiralty Bayfrom verandah
www.caribtrace.com and access to the sea from
DBEOUIA, UNION LEVEL our own jetty. Located in
BEQUIA, UNION LEVEL quiet northwest corner of
2 pieces of land for sale 23300 Admiralty Bay.
sq/ each. 4.25 USer sq Tel (784) 458-3942 E-mail
Tel (4amie) 404 ma mai daffodilharris@yahoo.com
Jhjamie99 4gmail.com
Unfurnidslhed hcuse, 3 beckoom/2
baths. Tdel (784) 495 3704 E-mail
bed villa with pool. Stunning
views. Jeep & Internet.
..ECiA BEL110 -i .Short or long-term lets.
-t s~A 'rli ,: E-mail Pearlwin @aol.com.
in : r L ri I:N .1 :T-M D

11 I : : : 1 1- r .1 : :, INTERNATIONAL MEDICAL

INSURANCE US$5,000,000

parcel of land 25060 sq/ff.
Beautifully located rectangular
lot on a dead end quiet road
with dec. & seavew, 5 min walk
to beach. Ready for building. Tel
(784) 458-3518/433-5021 Emal

Tel (604) 724-7384
4- 4-

es: www.northernrockiesas-
sociates.co r BEQUIA, HAMILTON 2 bed
SYANMAR OUTBOARD DIESEL room. partly furnished, recent-
36HPTrinidadcell(868)650-1914 ly refurbished house. 100 yds
SE-MidlJarDutch@tsffnettt from the sea. EC$1,300 per IALIID r i.'. OI.OI].
a month, utilities not included. 4-"EIIANt nA-, I
WINDPILOTPACIFIC lusaux- Tel (784) 496-9872 E-mail 'E,, r ,-
-.A PErEIC:I1jf' O 0iorIArC iliary rudder, Good price. Jhjamie99@gmail.com. laundry &
41' CORONADO 1973, CRUISER 1988 Center cock- Contact Olivier Nelly, Portde 1CAM-10PM .
"M Lady Kathleen" Now pit, single owner, lovingly Plaisance, Main, Martinique LA POMPE, BEQUIA
available in the Grenadines, maintained. Sailed through- Tel +(596) 696 25 11 60 Large 2 bedroom house and/
loaded with goodies. out the Caribbean and now or 1 bed studio apartment.
www.freewebs.com/ located in Trinidad. Ready Big verandah and patio,
sv-mladykathleen for for you tostart cruisingtomor- stunning view, cod breeze. US 50 per word -include name,
details. US$56,000 E-mail: row. USD 189,999 E-mail MARINE TECHNICIAN WANTED Internet, cable TV. 2 weeks address and numbers in count
Roland693@Yahoo.com SailingOnFree@aol.com Respected Marine Engneering minimum, excellent long- Line drawings/photos accompany-
Co. in Grenada is seeking dl term rates. Tel: (784) 495 1177 ing classilieds are US$10 Pre-pad
/ i I round experienced technician email: louisjan@vincysurf.com by the 151h t the month No replies
4 for maine diesel engines, elec-
su im trical,electronics,watermakers,
wind generators,AC and refrig
i eration. We can assist ith
f'work permit Ideal for cruiser or
independent tech looking for
the stability of an established
2003 BENETEAU OCEANIS company in Grenada. Rease
393, 3 Cabins/2 Heads, 'J0 i i -r..-- iiA.'.LCi emcl CV to enzamcrine@spi-
Good Condition, Cruising Rberglass hull. 671 GM Diesel. ceisle.com Tel: (473)439-2349
Ready. BVI's, $115,000, Based in Tyrell Bay, Carriacou.
E-mail starfrute@gmail.com Good price, negotiable. CAPTAIN AVAILABLE, USCG
Tel (952) 221-3788 Tel (473) 415-9323 Master 100 Tons Sail or Power,
Mate 200 Tons, Divemaster
.^ -also. Day tripsTerm or delivery,
all ranks considered. Can relo-
cate from St. Thomas E-mail

7(i 5,a... Yew ear 20/0 co al/ our


A&C Yacht Brokers
Admiral Yacht Insurance
Anjo Insurance
Art & Design
Art Fabnk
B & C Fuel Dock
Barefoot Yacht Charters
Barrow Sails & Canvas
Basil's Bar
Bequia Manna
Bequia Music Festival
Bequia Venture
Beyond The Islands
Budget Manne
Budget Manne
BVI Yacht Sales
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Captain Gourmet
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Carailbe Greement
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Caribbean Propellers Ltd
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Carnacou Silver Diving
Ciao Pizza
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Petite Martinique
St Vincent
Sint Maarten
Carib Wide
Union Island
Union Isand
St Maarten

Cooper Marine
Curagao Marine
Diesel Outfitters
Dockwise Yacht Transport
Dominica Manne Center
Dopco Travel
Down Island Real Estate
Doyle Offshore Sails
Doyle Offshore Sails
Doyle's Guides
Echo Marine Jotun Special
Femando's Hideaway
Food Fair
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lolaire Enterprises
Island Water World
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St Vincent
Sint Maarten
Canb Wide
St Lucia

Jolly Harbour
Jones Mantime
KNJ Manne
KP Manne
Lagoon Manna
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Le Phare Bleu Regatta
Lulley's Tackle
Mango Bay
Marc One Marine
Mangot Beach Club
Marina Zar-Par
McIntyre Bros Ltd
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Northern Lights Generators
Ocean Xperts
On Deck
Perkins Engines
Petit St Vincent
Port Hole
Power Boats
Quantum Sails
Reds Canbbean
Reef Gardens
Renaissance Marina
Santa Barbara Resort


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St Maarten
St Lucia
Dominican Rep
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Canb Wide


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Sea Services Martinique
Ship's Carpenter Tnnidad
Soper's Hole Manna Tortola
Spice Island Marine Grenada
St Croix Regatta St Croix
St Thomas Yacht Sales St Thomas
Superwind Germany
SVG Air St Vincent
SVG Tounsm St Vincent
Technick Grenada
Tikal Arts & Crafts Grenada
Tilikum Martinique
Townhouse Mega Store Antigua
Trade Winds Cruising Bequia
Transcaraibes Guadeloupe
Triskell Cup Regatta Guadeloupe
Turbulence Sails Grenada
Turbulence Sails Grenada
Tyrrel Bay Yacht Haulout Carnacou
Vemasca Venezuela
Voiles Assistance Martinique
Wallace & Co Bequia
Wallilabou Anchorage St Vincent
WIND Martinique
Woodstock Boatbuilders Antigua
Xanadu Manne Venezuela
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Leaders, :iends & jar/ners

o ko ..



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S_ J


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