Citation
Caribbean Compass

Material Information

Title:
Caribbean Compass the Caribbean's monthly look at sea & shore
Place of Publication:
Bequia St. Vincent and the Grenadines
Publisher:
Compass Pub.
Publication Date:
Copyright Date:
2009
Frequency:
Monthly
regular
Language:
English
Physical Description:
v. : ill. ; 35 cm.

Subjects

Subjects / Keywords:
Boats and boating -- Periodicals -- Caribbean Area ( lcsh )
Yachting -- Periodicals -- Caribbean Area ( lcsh )
Genre:
serial ( sobekcm )
periodical ( marcgt )
Spatial Coverage:
Saint Vincent and the Grenadines

Record Information

Source Institution:
University of Florida
Holding Location:
University of Florida
Rights Management:
Copyright Compass Pub. Permission granted to University of Florida to digitize and display this item for non-profit research and educational purposes. Any reuse of this item in excess of fair use or other copyright exemptions requires permission of the copyright holder.
Resource Identifier:
54085008 ( OCLC )
1605-1998 ( ISSN )

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C M PASS

The Caribbean's Monthly Look at Sea & Shore
www.caribbeancompass.com

l0TlBER 009l IM 6ll .l


Whale Saved!
A Grenadines switch............. 12

What We Did...
This summer in Grenada...... 13


Fire Down Below
An experience to avoid.......... 14

Yule Love It
Christmas in Cartagena........ 20





Just Grand...
Cayman Days.................... 22

Getting Here
Sailing directions US to VI ... 28


I.DEARTMENT


Business Briefs ...................... 9
Eco-News ............................ 11
Regatta News..................... 16
Meridian Passage.................20
Cruiser Profile....................... 24
Different Boats.................... 25
Product Postings ................. 30
Cruising Kids' Corner............34
Dolly's Deep Secrets............ 34


I ,I.. .. .
Tel: (784) 4573409, Fax (784) 457 3410

Editor........................................... Sally Erdle
sally@caribbeancompass.com
Assistant Editor...................Elaine Ollivierre
jsprat@vincysurfcom
Advertising & Distribution........Tom Hopman
tom@caribbeancompass.com
Art, Design & Production....Wilfred Dederer
ide@caribbeancompass.com
Accounting...............................Debra Davis
debra@caribbeancompass.com
Compass Agents by Island:

II i, ., ..
II I A 1.. I I I
i '; , .. ... ...

,h I h I ..I I "1 I I ,


Cruising Crossword............... 32
Word Search Puzzle.............. 32
Island Poets......................... 33
Sailors' Horoscope................ 33
The Caribbean Sky............... 34
Book Reviews.................... 36
Cooking with Cruisers.....38, 39
Readers' Forum................... 40
What's On My Mind.........42, 45


.... ... ..I. .. ... i I. .I. I I. ... .



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I I ISSN 1605- 1998
Cover photo: Tradition at Antigua Classic Yacht Regatta, Tim Wright www .photoaction.com


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Visitors Not Included in 'New' Venezuela Boat Tax
In early September, Caribbean Compass began
receiving unconfirmed reports from cruisers that a tax of
one percent of a vessel's value would now be charged


on foreign-flagged vessels entering Venezuela.
It is now understood that the main goal of the newly
enforced law, which was written two years ago, is
obtaining revenue from Venezuelan ship owners who


have registered commercial vessels outside the coun-
try in order to avoid paying import duty. Before the
terms of the new law were clarified, however, visiting
yachtsmen feared that as owners of "foreign-flagged
vessels", they might also be expected to pay the tax.
On September 21st, the tax office in Puerto La Cruz
confirmed to Carlos Vazquez C., General Manager of
Bahia Redonda Marina, that foreign-flagged boats
belonging to foreign citizens (or boats in transit) are
NOT required to pay the new one-percent tax. The
new tax will be applied only to foreign-flagged vessels
that belong to Venezuelan citizens.
Restrictions in St. George's Lagoon, Grenada
As construction continues at Port Louis Marina in St.
George's Lagoon, Grenada, restrictions for boaters are
in effect. The perimeter of the marina's submerged
land has been marked by white cans with the Camper
& Nicholsons logo affixed. This area is now an exclusion
zone as designated by the Grenada Ports Authority.
This action has been necessary to allow barge traffic
to move safely between various locations on the site.
All vessels are being asked to stay clear of the marked
areas, where no anchoring is allowed.
Access from the shore side of the Lagoon to the sea
will remain open, however all boat operators are
urged to operate at very slow speeds and stay clear
of all barges. Construction is expected to continue
until December 1st.
US Weather Service Proposes Marine Zone Changes
The US National Weather Service has proposed
changing its offshore zoning system for weather fore-
casts. The Tropical Analysis and Forecast Branch pro-
duces offshore forecasts for the Gulf of Mexico,
Caribbean Sea, and Southwest North Atlantic.
According to the service's website, the current off-
shore zones are too large to describe many local
weather impacts. These zones cover very large areas
that include reefs, islands, and channels, as well as
coastlines with rugged terrain. This complex geogra-
phy is often the cause of localized but significant
weather impacts. The large sizes of the current fore-
cast areas equate to fairly low-precision forecasts. But
if more detail were added to the forecast text, it
would be overly complex and difficult to understand.
Continued on next page
In Venezuela, the new yacht tax does not apply to
visitors, but there have been recent reports of visiting
yachts being checked for compliance with clearance and
cruising permit regulations


Port Louis Marina another great reason to visit Grenada


YACHTING SINCE 17B2
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NOAA's proposed new zones for offshore weather
forecasts. Let them know what you think!
S ... ... i ,,, . page
I, I: :i: : : :l :I .ri :-. to divide the existing off-
shore forecast zones into smaller pieces. This would
allow the forecaster the opportunity to describe more
subtle differences in winds and seas than is currently
possible, although with more simplified wording.
Over the years, the size of the zones had to be fairly
large in order to limit the number of zone forecasts
that were produced. Because each zone forecast
had to be manually typed, there was a limited
amount of time to prepare the forecast for each
zone. New technology allows the NWS to put much
more detail in the forecasts than ever before, yet issue
a product that is more concise and easier to read.
For more information visit www.nhc.noaa.gov/pro-
posalweb_pages/indexshtml. Feedback on the pro-
posed new zoning system is being solicited.

Dominica Continues Security Push
Hubert Winston reports: After two separate armed
robberies on yachts in Portsmouth Bay, Dominica, in
May and June of this year, the local community
played a key role in the capture of two men involved
in both of the crimes by identifying important evi-


dence. Two of the
men involved in the
more recent crime
were each recently
sentenced to more
than eight years in pris-
on. A third attacker,
believed to be a juve-
nile, is still at large, but
Shis identity is known
and he is currently
being sought. The
Dominica Marine
Association and the
Discover Dominica
Authority in the Ministry
of Tourism played roles
in getting the victims
back on-island to help
the prosecution's
case. I would like to
extend special thanks
to John Dyer, Julia Russ, Inspector Cuffy of the
Portsmouth Police, Helen Clarke of the Cabrits Dive
Center, and the people of Portsmouth for their help in
closing this chapter.
The Dominica Marine Association is working with the
Ministry of Legal Affairs and other Government agen-
cies to promote mandatory minimum sentences for
individuals who commit crimes with weapons.

Look, Mom, We're on TV!
You don't have to speak German to enjoy
Siebenmeere TV. Visit www.siebenmeere.tv and join
Rolf and Joachim's fun-packed sailing adventures in
the Eastern Caribbean. Episode 12 is devoted to St.
Lucia, from Rodney Bay Marina to cassava cakes,
Gros Islet night to the rainforest. Episode 13 records
their trip to St. Barths, including sailing in the Bucket
Regatta and taking a peek in the kitchen of a local
restaurant. In episode 15 they visit Bequia for the
Music Fest, kite flying, Easter Regatta and more, plus
a sail to the Tobago Cays. Keep checking the site
for further episodes. In mid-November the voyage
will continue to Barbados, Grenada, the Virgin
Islands, Puerto Rico, the Dominican Republic, Haiti,
Jamaica, Cuba, the Bahamas, Florida and then the
US East Coast.


Eight Bells
The king is dead, long live the king! Antigua-based
yachtsman, writer and cartoonist Bob Williamson, best
known as the King of Redonda, passed away on
August 27th.
Continued on next page


S.. I


Bob Williamson aboard his schooner St. Peter.
The King ofRedonda' and his 'royal yacht' were
long-standing parts of the English Harbour scene













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TROPICAL WATERS:

Joun ~,~_~~-~. thr r IEST In self pl hing only
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i-:, :i:i i-, :I :,. :i.- Tamara, Kng Bob "set sail on his final voyage and into
uncharted waters. He did so with heart in hand and a true explorer's determination."
Born in Canada, Bob bought the 74-foot square-rigged schooner St Peter in St.
Petersburg, Russia, and sailed it to the Caribbean, settling in English Harbour.
Bob contributed humorous stories and illustrations to Caribbean Compass and
other publications, and published a book of his essays entitled Bunk (A Book of Short
Stories and Cartoons to Keep by Your Bunk), and a sequel, Double Bunk St Peter,
which was built to an 18th century design, appeared as The Black Pearl in all three
Pirates of the Caribbean movies.
"Kng Robert the Bald" was the fourth Kng of Redonda, a tongue-in-cheek title
going back to 1880 and giving its bearer the monarchy of an uninhabited island off
Antigua. When another claimant to the crown once appeared, King Bob reportedly
challenged the usurper to a duel cupcakes at 30 paces.
CuraQao Kayaker's Thousand-Mile Challenge
Jayson Persaud reports: Ryan de Jongh of Curacao intends to kayak from St.
Martin to Curacao to raise awareness and funds for environmental protection.
Through his "Clear Water Challenge III", Ryan hopes to draw attention to, and sup-
port for, the work of the 52-year-old Caribbean Research & Management of
Biodiversity (Carmabi) foundation. He will be starting from St. Martin on December
4th to paddle to Curacao, 1003 miles (1606 kilometres) away, arriving approximately
22 days later. Stops are planned at Statia, St. Kitts, Montserrat, Guadeloupe,


-t-a
-; U- a .


Dominica, Martinique, St. Lucia, St. Vincent, the Grenadines, Grenada, Isla
Blanquilla, Los Roques, Las Aves and Bonaire.
Ryan's previous Challenges include kayaking from Bonaire to Curacao, from
Curacao to Aruba, and arc.,. :1 : :
For more information on C :, :. : : :. : For more information on
Ryan's project visit natureislife org.
Free at Last
Starting with this issue, the entire contents of each month's Caribbean Compass
will be FREE online. This is our "recession buster" gift to the yachting community and
everyone who loves the Caribbean. Check it out at our spiffy new-look website,
www.caribbeancompass.com, and spread the word!














BUSINESS BRIEFS
I Your bottom is our concern
Win Dinghy/Outboard at Island Water World Online!
Anyone who buys anything at Island Water World's online store www.islandwater-
world.com from now until the end of January 2010 is eligible to win a great dinghy
and outboard combination. Island Water World will give away three of these com-
bos, each consisting of a Walker Bay Air Floor Hypalon AF240 dinghy and a Mercury -
5-horsepower outboard.
There will be a random drawing at the end of November, December and
January. Island Water World will ship each month's winner a combo free of
charge, provided they are at a destination the company ships to (click on the
website's shipping map). The draw is cumulative -this means, for example, if you
buy something in October you will be eligible for the draws in November,
December and January.
Island Water World's Managing Director, Sean Kennelly, says, "We want to demon-
strate how easy and secure it is to buy online here in the Caribbean and, equally
importantly, how reasonable our freight rates are. It is surprisingly cheap to FedEx a
dinghy and engine to Curacao or Martinique from Sint Maarten, or LIAT Quikpak a
windlass or fridge down to Trinidad or Bequia." --- -
For more information see ad on page 5. ':;
New Website for Northern Lights
The new www.northern-lights.com website will provide visitors with an entirely new
interface to view Northern Lights' line of marine- and land-based diesel generator
sets and Lugger propulsion engines.
While popular features like product specifications, comprehensive literature and
up-to-date dealer locations are still mainstays of the site, the overall look of Northern
Lights' Website is being dramatically upgraded. The site has also been re-designed










rb curacao







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to be more customer-focused. Product information, a dealer directory, drawings
and literature are quickly available with prominent links, as well as links to corporate
news and archives. A newly upgraded search feature will allow visitors quick access
to information on specific Northern Lights products and parts.
For information on Northern Lights dealers in the Caribbean, see ad on page 24.
Barefoot Opens Raymarine Electronics Dealership in St. Vincent
Barefoot Electronics, a sub-division of Barefoot Yacht Charters, has officially
opened its Raymarine Dealership in St Vincent. Services offered include installation
and servicing of GPS, chart plotters, radar, SSB and VHF radios, scanners, fish-finders
and sailing instruments. Networking and interfacing of PCs to marine electronics is
also a specialty, and all installations and repairs are completed to NMEA (National
Marine Electronics Association) and ABYC (American Boat & Yacht Council) stan-
dards by a Raymarine-certified installer.
In addition to Raymarine, Barefoot Electronics also holds dealerships for NavPod,
Scanstrut and Tacktick wireless instruments. I
For more information see ad on page 14.
Get Weather on Your Laptop or PC
Movingweather is an animated weather forecasting software that enables its users
to get the weather on their laptops or PCs for up to seven days anywhere in the i
world from anywhere in the world, via WiFi, mobile or satellite phones, or even SSB
radio. It provides pressure, wind, rain, cloud cover, humidity and temperature in as
little as five-minute chunks. The software itself contains all the maps and graphics, so
when the user downloads the forecast they simply download the data for the
weather they want for the area they want, thereby keeping the file size to a mini-
mum and rendering it very cost effective even for satellite phone users. I
Becoming popular throughout the UK and Europe, the product was distributed
within the RYA magazine and has been endorsed by the World Cruising Club, a *
number of sailing schools and marinas, and Sir Robin Knox-Johnston. i -
Movingweather are offering a 30-day free trial via their website www.movin- | .
gweather.com, where you can also download the software itself at
www.movingweather.com/products/download.
For more information see classified ad on page 46. i
Mark KIty reports: What is The Wirie?
As cruisers traveling by boat throughout the Caribbean, we discovered the need
for a WiFi device that is simple to install and use, affordable and powerful. Everyone
we meet along the way is looking for a better way to get online from his or her boat.
People don't want to take their computers ashore and risk the dinghy ride or get
caught by a sudden squall. They want the convenience of internet from the comfort
of their boat.
Continued on next page


s


1












Continued from previous page
There are numerous products on the market, such as 5mileWiFi, Radiolabs, Port
Networks, IslandTime PC. All were built and designed for the marine environment
but, in our opinion, each of them was lacking. So, we invented and built our own
marine WiFi solution to meet our needs and those of other cruisers.
Our product is called The Wirie. It is a totally waterproof unit that is easy to plug
into your laptop, easy to use, very powerful and suited for the cruiser's budget.
While down here in the Caribbean, the units have become so popular that we
started a company in the US, and now manufacture and ship the units anywhere in
the world. Caribbean cruisers will find us on our sailing catamaran Irie throughout
the islands.
For more information visit thewirie. com.
Falcon 'Stretched' at Fortress Marine, St. Kitts
Emma Warren reports: Construction of the Falcon was started in 1985 by Doug
Brookes, the owner of Brookes Boatyard. Brookes is known across the Caribbean for
his exquisite design and construction of catamarans, both sail and power. Falcon, a
lightweight 53-foot sailing catamaran, was designed for speed.




--











Twenty-three years later, Falcon was put back into the hands of her builder when
her new owners inquired about extending the cabin area. Brookes considered the
best option would be a radical concept: cutting the vessel in half and inserting a
seven-foot plug. His approach was to make everything balance while making
Falcon bigger. The whole operation took place at Brookes' new boatyard in St. Kitts,
Fortress Marine Ltd.
Brookes is supported by his two business partners in Fortress Marine Ltd., Patrick
Ryan and Philip Walwyn. These three sailors, who have known each other since the
1960s, were brought together by friendship and their love of sailing and the sea.
Brookes and Walwyn had feature articles written on them in WoodenBoat in July/
Aug 2007 and Professional Boatbuilder in June/July 2009.
The alterations made to Falcon took some time; however the crew and Brookes


are very proud of the outcome. After her complete bow to stern makeover, Falcon
looks better then ever and is ready to put up her sails and ride the waves.
Fortress Marine Ltd. continues to build bigger and better catamarans and is pres-
ently finishing up a 70-foot day charter sail cat for the end of the year.
For more information visit www.fortressmarineltd.com.
Jamaica's Errol Flynn Marina's New Services
Leasing arrangements are being finalized for the operation of the pool bar and
the gourmet shop/delicatessen at Errol Flynn Marina in Port Antonio, Jamaica. Both
services are expected to be in operation not later than December 1st. This will mark
the first time the pool bar has been in operation on a full-time basis since the marina
opened in 2004.
For more information visit www.errolflynnmarina.com.
Nanny Cay, Tortola, Expands Chandlery
Nanny Cay, the largest full-service marina and boatyard in the British Virgin Islands, is
expanding its chandlery operation. The 1800-square-foot shop is going to be enlarged
a. -



ILCI




-2j I I



to 2800 square feet, an increase of nearly 60 percent. The expansion will enable
Nanny Cay to stock and display more products including inflatable dinghies and out-
board engines; Nanny Cay is the BVI dealer for AB Inflatables and Tohatsu outboards.
For more information visit www.nannycay.com.
Crown Bay, St. Thomas, Releases Winter Season Rates Early
Crown Bay Marina in St. Thomas, USVI, has released their 2009/2010 winter season
rates early to lure yachts to the Caribbean. Traditionally, these published rates don't
hit the market until the Ft. Lauderdale Boat Show at the end of October, but the
early release hopes to have yachts start "thinking Caribbean" sooner than that.
"We recognize that a number of yachts and owners are pulling back during this
economic downturn," said Director of Operations, Jane Wherren. "We wanted to let
them know that there is value and service available in the Caribbean, and the
Virgin Islands."
For more information visit www.crownbay.com.


CLEAR SKIES FORECASTED FOR THIS SAFE HARBOR

Seau Boca Marinna, Cur.%a.ri' fmin"st privately lurhl'r Ili% tlleningn %I s Eft Ult r, in J~ k I i u a Lk k th 1160 Ow Marir. ri%
I'i r di1kld g Li-jkod outside the hurnicain bcxi- I in thr prrr icrd "lI LI i i Lk~rmr .ipf"-pr[.r1C a e
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ECU-NEWS




Countdown to Control Land-Based Marine Pollution
Earlier this year, the United States became the sixth country to sign the Wider
Caribbean's environmental agreement "Land Based Sources of Marine Pollution
Protocol" (LBS), joining Belize, France, Panama, St. Lucia, and Trinidad & Tobago in
their efforts to protect the ..1 I ... 1 ... I ii. 1 .. I.,,. to United Nations
Environment Programme -1,, I . I.... -"' I .. I ....... e pollution in the
Caribbean Sea originates from activities on land, with the main sources being sew
age and run-off from poor agricultural practices and land use.
The LBS Protocol aims to reduce pollution by implementing improved standards
for wastewater discharges and industrial effluent, and through the promotion and
use of best management practices and improved technologies. It is one of three pro
tocols under the UNEP-administered "c.rt;r-,; ''-n-ention for the Protection and
Development of the Marine Environmes I 1. I Caribbean Region".
The Wider Caribbean Region includes those countries that border eastern Florida
south of 30 north latitude, the Straits of Florida, the Gulf of Mexico and the
Caribbean Sea. The seaward boundary of the region is the 200-mile Exclusive
Economic Zone of each country.
"It is critical to have this Protocol enter into force to secure the economic sustain
ability of the region," says the Coordinator of the Caribbean Environment Programme,
Nelson Andrade Colmenares. "With increased coastal development, more stringent
pollution reduction and prevention controls must be implemented. The LBS Protocol
enables this to be done and it is the intention of the UNEP Caribbean Environment
Programme to have it enter into force this year."
Three more signatures are required for the LBS Protocol to become legally binding
for the 23 i ,I, . .... I .. I 1.0 the Convention. National promotional workshops to
increase a .. .. - I 11' I I -. Protocol have been held in Jamaica, Grenada, Haiti,
Barbados, the Dominican Republic and Nicaragua.

Outreach: St. Croix Marine Park's Eco-Van
The USVI's Department of Planning and Natural Resources showed off the East End
Marine Park Eco-Van's new looks during Earth Day festivities in April. Local artist Joan
Szatkowski donated the marinethemed design, from which decals were created and
installed on the van's exterior. The Nature Conservancy funded the decals' installation
with a NOAA grant to increase awareness, usage and preservation of the Park, its ser
vices and environment, while recognizing its recreational benefit to the community.
The Eco-Van has been in use since late 2007, as one part of the Park's three-step
educational program, which also includes experiences in the classroom and during
field trips to the Virgin Islands' first territorial marine park. Bringing the island's
ecosystems to the community is the main task Education & Outreach Coordinator


.. i i .., .i. hopes to accomplish with the program. She encourages students to
i ,, senses when learning about marine ecology, and the Eco-Van offers
initial eye appeal not only to students but also to anyone else who sees the van on
the road, or at a shopping center, fair or school. Currently in development is a
"Traveling Ocean" exhibit, which will include a touch-tank. Creatures that may be
incorporated into the exhibit include sea stars, sea urchins, hardy fish and others
from sea grass beds and beaches within the park.
Established in 2003, the St. Croix East End Marine Park includes nearly 60 square
miles of a wide variety of marine habitats and organisms. Its coral reefs, mangroves,
seagrass beds, salt ponds and beaches are home to many rare and endangered land
and sea animals.


ulanDDean MviemDers o wnaiing uommlnsson lven rmianclal neip
At the June 2009 Annual Meeting of the Internatior. .1 1. .1,,,. ...mission, it was
announced that Caribbean member states would: I...... .1 assistance to
enable their Commissioners and fisheries experts to attend meetings of the IWC's
Working Groups in different parts of the world.
Outgoing Commission Chairman William Hogarth said, "We recognize the burden
of the costs on Caribbean countries, indeed on all the member-states that are devel
-i-. --untries, so they can participate in the deliberations that are ongoing about
I1. Ii.. oftheIWC."
According to a report at caribbeanworldnews.com, the IWC is providing funds to
Antigua, Grenada, St. Kitts & Nevis, St. Vincent & the Grenadines, and St. Lucia, as
well as to member states in Central and South America, Africa and the Pacific, so
they can play a role in the search for an acceptable solution to such issues as the
Revised Management Procedure that would pave the way for a resumption of limited
and tightly controlled whaling overseen by the Commission; the value of scientific
whaling research conducted by Japan; and the sustainable use of the world's marine
resources, including whales.
Continued on page 30


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Beaching and Breaching:








Visits Unienalsland
by Chris Waiter
August 29th found my husband Duff and me aboard our Gulfstar 62, Sudiki
anchored at Frigate Rock in Union Island. The day before, our friends on Tzigane IX
had joined us and we werc r-i' lin in th qpliet Grenadines anchorage. A chance
sighting began a unique : .. ....... I, -1 ...... at the rock for inspiration at about
10:30AM, I saw spray where no spray should be.
A young Bryde's whale had put herself nose into the rocks and, having no reverse
gear, was stuck. She was blowing a' --;;1. i..t -;, .1 -hich we had heard but did
I I .... the shore noises. i... 1 I I 1. .-and went by in the dinghy
1 ii ave referred to the whale as "she", but have no idea if this was a

Bryde's whales (Balaenoptera edeni) are unique in having three longitudinal ridges
on their heads, while other members of this family have just one. A Bryde's whale
stranded in the nearby i i Cays in 1983. This one was approximately 30 feet
long, of which at least :, i I vas grounded on a thin layer of sand over rock, and
she lay beside a large piece of very sharp lava rock. She lifted her flukes as we came
by the first time. They were about five feet across. My heart lurched seeing her so
enormous and so helpless.
Once we had found her we had a quandary. If the local fishermen found her, would she
be a welcome dinner? We called Glenroy Adams from Grenadines Dive, a Bequia man
who is a friend and a mover -he was the first native of St Vincent & the Grenadines to
become a qualified scuba diving instructor. He has a passion for the marine environment
and says he will do whatever he can to protect and preserve it. Glenroy was in St Vincent,
but he contacted his staff on Union Island and within half an hour the dive boat came
round the corer carrying divemaster Jeremiah Forde, accompanied by Jerome Lewis
and Marslyn Lewis-Adams, Glenroy's wife and photographer par excellence.
Duff retrieved a mega-thick rope from Sudiki and we got into the water with the
whale. The reality of being next to a leviathan was truly awe ii-iirin. Touching her
skin and viewing her underwater were unique experiences. -1. - huge and so
gentle with us. The water was covering her except for her dorsal fin, which we
splashed with water, wondering about whale sunburn. Her skin was flayed and peel
ing in sheets where she rested on the sand. She some had very strange oval-shaped
holes in her skin just below the waterline which were approximately a quarter to half
an inch deep into the blubber.
Duff, Jeremiah and Jerome quietly worked in concert and passed the line around
her tail and attached the line to the dive boat. By this time sightseers arrived who
helped to varying degrees. We took up tension and the grounded whale began to
move immediately. Two people pushed her head and she slid about 20 feet back.
Feeling free, she shook her flukes and the rope slid off as planned. However, she
t.t- 1 .-- forward and was in danger f; 1 1.- i. r--: If The "forward con
I ,i i ,, -1, d her to their left with all I. .... ..,. i - I, i i d and then heaved
forward and swam into about 15 or 20 feet of water. She gave a shudder and we
stood back to see what she would do. She appeared strong, but we wondered if she
had been ill cr i;i;r--1 -r ----n if she had deliberately beached herself. Or perhaps
she had just: 11 i i I ,,,i the shallows and gotten trapped.
She seemed to wind up slowly as though to give everyone a chance to get clear.
Then that enormous back started slowly lifting and those massive flukes went to
work full force as she headed out to sea, gathering speed. A small stream of blood
from her lower jaw indicated the only visible injury.
As she reached the channel she did a full breach -completely out of the water
-and was gone.
Thanks to Marslyn Lewis Adams of Grenadines Dive for additional information in
this report.




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4:00PM, saw the kind of excitement no one
ever wants to see. The normally active anchor
age at Porlamar, Margarita, Venezuela was
disrupted by a disaster in the making.
No matter where you live, you never want to be
awakened by the smoke alarm. Jack, who had not
been feeling well for a few days, was taking a nap
aboard his boat in the middle of the afternoon and was
awakened by his smoke alarm. He got out of bed,
opened the cabin door and found the yacht's saloon
filled with smoke and small flames. He shut the door
and escaped through a deck hatch, thinking clearly


their dinghies on their way to help, some with fire extin
guishers, others with buckets, yet others with cameras.
Stillothers 1 .1 i..... i. . with interest.
Morethail. I .11 I I I. ., ioputoutthefire
were local fishermen. Yes, the same fishermen that so
many cruisers curse and fear as pirates, speedsters
and drunks. They all worked very hard to put out the
fire and are to be commended for their bravery and
action. They did ask for compensation for the time
they worked, in the amount of six dollars each, as I am
told is a local custom, as strange as that may seem. It
is hard to imagine the cruisers alone could have extin
guished the fire without the fishermen's help.


rolling into the bright blue sky. For the next hour I
stood in my dinghy, dipping buckets of sea water, then
handing them up to a local man on deck who then
threw the water onto the fire, down the hatches and
anywhere that looked like it might burn, then passed
the bucket back down to me to be refilled. Phil of Ibote
and others were doing the same thing on the other side
of the -;;r;-;;: nill---t Jack, Robert of Iwi and
Fabrice .. .. .. deck, in and out of hatches
working below; no one could stay below for very long.
Everyone was doing his best to save the boat. I could
not see everyone working so I am sure I have missed
mentioning several people here, for which I apologize.


--_

... ..-


enough to take his air horn and a bundle of important I was on my way to shore, which was in the opposite With the confusion of bodies on deck, each trying to
papers, which are always together, with him. direction from 1 ......... ht, so I did not see what find a flat place to stand out of the smoke plume and
He sounded the air horn as soon as he was out on deck. was happening I. I .- told about the fire, I heat while still having access to a place to throw the
It was heard by Alberto on La Creature, who quickly returned to my boat, grabbed a bucket and went to water, and the mixing of all the voices, many in Spanish,
picked up Jack off the burning deck and kept him in his help. By the time I arrived, the stricken yachts entire som( ... I ....- all tryi: I I 1. .11 "I. .. of some-
dinghy until more help arrived. Someone else also saw cockpit was ablaze and smoke was pouring out of one ,....- agua ... ... i ,ire!", "get
the smoke and put out a distress radio call to the others every hatch, dorade and vent, all converging into a that out of the way!" -the scene was chaotic.
in the anchorage. Within minutes several people were in huge plume of thick, dark black smoke billowing and Continued on next page


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-Continuedfrom previous page
The Policia Marino boat dropped off Port Captain
Bolivar and a young policeman on deck, then turned
circles around the inferno and kept some of the many
pirogues at a distance. There is ... i.... incongru
ous about a ---*n -r -.-;r;; I....... .... and car
trying a gu ... i i .... i . 1 ... i.. in .11 .
sm oke and 1.. ... ... I .. I onto i.. I.


could not see. He, too, is to be thanked. The Port
Captain also managed to get all of the fishermen paid
for their time, adding to the list the names of each of
the officials in the police boat.
The flames very quickly gave way to the water being
thrown on them, but the hot spots did not want to die
so easily and needed many additional douses with
water. The fire extinguishers from several -
boats were also discharged and must have I
some value.
The cockpit portion of the fire was so intense it
burned off the mainsail and its UV cover, and even
melted much of the aluminum boom. Everything else
made of aluminum in the cockpit and around the
stern was also melted, including the self-steering
gear and wind generator. The entire binnacle-mount
ed instrument array was gone -not a sign of it was
left. The heat did not penetrate into the lockers far
enough to explode the propane tanks, although this
had been a legitimate concern for everyone that was
close to the area. The yacht's interior was a charred
and gutted mess. Everything that was not burned
was water soaked.
One surprise was when a small explosion sounded.
While everyone was looking around the yacht to find
its source, plenty of smoke started coming from the
bow of one of the pirogues that was tied alongside.
After a couple of buckets of water were unceremoni
ously dumped on that fire to ,,.,,,.I i invest
gated, ..*,,. ,3 know what .- 1 ........ I in the
pirogue i .... I what I believed was Jack's flare
launcher (Jack later described it as his), which I sus
pect was picked up inside the boat then dropped into
the pirogue, ii ... off the firing-pin device and
launching the 11 .
This was about the time the local fire department
showed up. They do not have a boat, so they hitched a
ride, bringing no equipment at all with them.
As the fire first destroyed the yacht's electrical sys
tem, none of her pumps were working. Consequently
all of the water that was being poured into the boat,
stayed in the boat. The locals decided the boat was at


risk of sinking and pulled it into shallower water. The
last of the flames were being extinguished as they
picked up the yacht's anchor and towed her with a
fishing boat until she grounded. They then set two
anchors to hold her in place.
Two cruisers, Trevor of Norgal and Lars of Arubean
Princess, volunteered to stand watch on the boat all
night to discourage looting. During the night the burnt





I \


-- -- rr
Above: The scene was chaotic, but fishermen and cruisers
doused the fire
Below: A yacht charred but not sunk, thanks to a smoke al
helping hands


yacht did not get any lower in the water, so there did
not appear to be any water coming in anywhere. She
was floating nicely in the morning.
As if the damage to the yacht were not enough,
Jack's dinghy, with the outboard mounted, had been
tied behind it. The heat of the fire was enough to
destroy the tubes of the "deflatable", which then let the
outboard go underwater. The dinghy was towed to the


Port Captain's dock and stored there for the night.
They soaked the motor overnight in fresh water, and
Charlie of Aeolus was successful in getting it cleaned,
dried and running the next day.
The fire may have been started by a bread machine,
which required running the engine for electrical power,
all going through the inverter before powering the
bread maker. Earlier Jack had noted the battery con
nections had gotten warm.
The formerly beautiful 1987
Hans Christian, maintained in
pristine condition by her skip
per of four years, seems to be a
total loss. An insurance sur
veyor from Puerto La Cruz
arranged by Jack's carrier
seemed to agree. The boat now
sits on the hard at
Chacachacare, i .
awaiting her fate. ,I, 1I
cial headach- t--7P;; Jack had
planned to i a trip to
visit friends and family, but he
S will not be allowed to leave
Venezuela until arrangements
are made for the boat.
Today, right now, put down
ii.. ... i... .. I I checkyour
S .. ,,,. ,,.i, ,. The needle
should be in the green. Do you
have one by the companionway,
--_ the galley, engine compartment
AND your cabin? At least twice
working together per year you need to take the
extinguisher off its mount, and
shake, rattle and roll the cylin
arm and many der to loosen the powder, which
otherwise will cake to the bot


tom or sides and will not spray. When rolled along the
edge of a table, the cylinder should not be weighted on
one side, but roll evenly. Do you have smoke detec
tors? They sense fire .. 1 r .. can. People die in
fires. Please don't be i ,I ...
Bruce Pamham is cruising the Caribbean aboard
S/V Rphurst.


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REGATTA




T&T Retain Caribbean Dinghy Championship Title
For the second year running, the Trinidad & Tobago
youth sailing team brought home the Caribbean


Team T&T with their individual trophies and the Caribbean Dinghy
Championship Team Trophy. From left to right the team members are:
Wesley Scott, Dekife Charles, Myles Kaufmann, Stuart Leighton, Daniel
Briggs and Derek Poon Tip
Dinghy Championship team trophy. The young T&T
sailors out-performed teams from Antigua, St.
Maarten, Martinique and host country Barbados to
retain the title.
This year's Caribbean Dinghy Championship was
held August 15th and 16th on the waters of Carlisle
Bay in front of the Barbados Yacht Club, and was
organized by the Barbados Sailing Association and
sanctioned by the Caribbean Sailing Association.
The best result for Team T&T came from 11-year-old
Myles Kaufmann, who won all nine races in the
Optimist Junior Class for the 11-and-under sailors.
Following Kaufmann s lead was 12-year-old Derek
Poon Tip, who took top honours in the Optimist Senior -
Class for the 12- to 15-year-olds by winning seven of
nine races in his class.
In the Laser Standard Class, Stuart Leighton had his
hands full against Olympian sailor Karl James from
Antigua, whom he finally managed to beat in the last
race after placing second in most of the races. With
his results, Leighton took second place in his class, as
did Vessigny Vikings and former Optimist sailors Daniel helped Jason with the sails. Eli kept the children enter-
Briggs (skipper) and Dekife Charles (crew), who com- tained with question-and-answer games about the his-
peted for the first time in a two-man dinghy. tory of Antigua, and everyone learned something new.
Former Optimist sailor Wesley Scott made his first At Deep Bay Ocean Nomad anchored in the shelter
appearance in the Laser Radial Class this year and of Fort Barrington, where all the kids jumped off the
came in third place overall, despite some gusty winds boat and swam to the beach and back. After much
on the first day. fun in the water they set sail again.
In congratulating the national team on their splen- On the sail home some of the children tried steering


did performance, David Leighton, president of the
Trinidad & Tobago Sailing Association, also thanked
the Sport Company of Trinidad and Tobago for their
tremendous support.

Adventure Antigua Takes Young Antiguans to Sea
Carol Smith reports:
A fundraising event held in Antigua on August 22nd
raised over ECS2,700 for Jolly Harbour Yacht Club's
Youth Sailing Program, which provides free dinghy sail-
ing lessons to Antiguan-born children between the
ages of 8 and 18. A special "prize" was donated to
seven of the children in the program. On September
5th, Eli Fuller of Adventure Antigua
took them sailing on his beautiful
Carriacou sloop, Ocean Nomad.
S Not many of the young sailors
had been on a boat bigger than
S the dinghies they sail off North
Beach in Jolly Harbour. Once on
board, the children were given a
quick tour of the boat by Jason, the
deck crew, then they were given a
safety briefing from Captain Eli -
how not to fall overboard!
They first sailed towards Sandy
Island then altered course, with the
youngsters helping to trim the sails
under Eli's watchful eye, and sailed
up the coast until they could see
St. John's. Tony, the instructor from
the Youth Sailing Program,
manned the mainsheet and


Detroit Cup

Left: Young Antiguan dinghy sailors enjoying a sail
aboard a traditional Carriacou sloop
September 3rd through 6th. Twelve teams from all
over the world competed in a round robin for world
match race points and an invitation to the Brasil Cup
(www.worldmatchracingtour.com).
Taylor was by far the youngest and beat all but four
of the older, more experienced teams. His father, Bill
Canfield, is manager of the St. Thomas Yacht Club.
Anna Tunnicliffe, the sole US Olympic sailing gold
medalist in Beijing, won the regatta she was
extremely tough competition for this Antilles School
graduate, now attending Boston College. Even Sailing
Rules guru Dave Perry could not beat Anna OR Taylor!

Jamaican Entry for Clipper Round the World Race
Jamaica will field an entry in the Clipper 09-10 Round
the World Yacht Race. The boat, named Jamaica
Lightning Bolt, in honor of the fastest man on earth, will
compete against nine identical 68-foot yachts in the
35,000-mile race around the world. It sees the
Caribbean island's return to the event after first fielding
an entry in the 07-08 running of the Clipper race.
Continued on next page


C- T tj Tlu c .- I - - - - - .. -I I I .. I I .-
D r I.-.,1 .1 T I T.- I
DYTII 1eIT- I II- l I I I r -l ,


Ocean Nomad towards Montserrat. There were one or
two wavy wakes and one or two that were as straight
as could be. It was a big thrill for all the kids that had
a go. The boat arrived back at Jolly Harbour at lunch-
time, and the youngsters all gave a resounding cheer
of "thank you" to Eli and Jason for taking them on
such a fantastic trip. Who knows, one day, as a result
of the Youth Sailing Program, one of the trainees may
end up working for Adventure Antigua and taking
new trainees out for a sail!
For more information on the JHYC Youth Sailing
Program contact Pippa Pettingell at pippapettingell@
hotmail.com.

St. Thomas Yacht Club Sailor in US Match Racing Event
While visiting relatives in Detroit, Michigan, USVI-
based sailors Tony and Ellen Sanpere happened to
cross tacks with St. Thomas sailor Taylor Canfield. Ellen
reports that Taylor competed in the Detroit Cup, a
World Match Racing Tour Category 2 Event, from

-1l












... ... .... page
Ja : :i --- i : .1- compete against interna-
tional entries including Spirit of Australia, Uniquely
Singapore, California, Qingdao, Cork, Edinburgh
Inspiring Capital and Hull & Humber. Sponsors recog-
nize that the Clipper Race provides a cost effective
and high impact platform to promote tourism, attract
inward investment and generate a strong sense of
community engagement.
The race is unique because the crews are all non-
professionals and 40 percent of them were new to
the sport of sailing before beginning the obligatory


Jamaica's entry (at far right) in the globe-girdling
Clipper Race helps put the island on the world's
sports tourism map
training programme. The crew taking part come from
33 nationalities and range in age from 18 to 69. Each
yacht is led by a highly qualified professional skipper,
and taking the helm of Jamaica Lightning Bolt is
Peter Stirling.
Peter says, "I can't tell you how proud I am to be
leading the team that will represent Jamaica. The
race route will take in a visit to the island when we
arrive at Errol Flynn Marina in Port Antonio next May
and the team and I want to ensure that we arrive
there in first place."
Jamaica's Minister of Tourism, Hon. Edmund Bartlett
said, "Sports tourism in Jamaica had a shot in the arm
this week with Bolt's amazing 100-metre world record
time and with the gold medal performances from the
rest of the Jamaican squad. To be involved again with
the Clipper Round the World Yacht Race is yet anoth-
er element of our strategy to put Jamaica on the map
by using our sporting events, our sporting heroes and
our sporting facilities to show the world that we may
be a small island but we are a great nation of
sporting excellence."
The Clipper Race was founded by sailing legend Sir
Robin Knox-Johnston, the first man to sail single-hand-
ed and non-stop around the world. Sir Robin says, "It's
great to welcome Jamaica back to the race track


and we look forward to working with the Jamaica
Tourist Board as we take their message, Once you go,
you know,' around the world."
The Clipper 09-10 Race started from England on
September 13th.
Caribbean 1500 2009 Attracts International Fleet
The 20th Annual Caribbean 1500 fleet will sport an
international flair. In addition to the usual contingents
from the US and Canada, sailors from Germany,
Japan, the UK and Ireland will join the fleet. This year,
America's oldest and largest offshore cruising rally will
depart from Hampton, Virginia on
November 2nd and arrive in
Tortola, British Virgin Islands, seven
to 12 days later.
"The 20th Anniversary fleet is
shaping up to be an interesting
group," explained founder and
president Steve Black. "We have
i- veterans of past rallies, including
ri, several who participated in the
first Caribbean 1500 in 1990. The
S first-time participants include four
families with children. And it is
l always fun to have sailors from
other countries involved."
More than 1,000 yachts and
S 4,000 sailors have participated in
S"" the Caribbean 1500 since its
inception. This year's rally will
include special events at the
Nanny Cay Resort and Marina in
Tortola to greet the ralliers as they
complete the passage.
The Caribbean 1500 retains
some of the competitive ele-
ments of traditional sailboat races, but offers social,
educational and technological enhancements that
broaden the appeal of the event to couples and
families, as well as racers. Prior to the start, the partici-
pating sailboats will gather for several days of safety
inspections, workshops and weather briefings.
Over 10,000 website visitors each day will monitor
the progress of the boats. With wireless transponders
on each yacht, positions will be broadcast via satellite
six times a day. Each boat's track will be displayed on
the Caribbean 1500 website using software custom-
ized to incorporate features from Google Earth.
For more information visit www. carib 1500. com.

St. Thomas to Host US Women's Match Racing Champs
Carol Bareuther reports: From November 11th
through 15th, the waters off St. Thomas's east end will
host eight of the best female match racers in the
world and their crews, at the US Women's Match
Racing Championship for the Allegra Knapp Mertz
and Adams Memorial Trophies.
Competitors are selected by resume and include US
Sailing Team AlphaGraphics member and 2008
Olympic Gold Medallist Anna Tunnicliffe (North Cape
Yacht Club/Lauderdale Yacht Club; ranked 19th),
Genevieve Tulloch (St. Francis Yacht Club; ranked
21st), Katy Pilley-Lovell (Southern Yacht Club; ranked
23rd), Debbie Capozzi (Chicago Match Race Center;
ranked 25th), Annie Gardner Nelson (San Diego Yacht
Club; ranked 182nd), Meagan Ruhlan (Pymatuning


Yacht Club; ranked 200th), Evan Brown (Davis Island
Yacht Club; unranked) and Kelly O'Brien (St. Thomas
Yacht Club; unranked). Tunnicliffe is the defending
2008 champ and Capozzi won in 2006.
Match racing two identical boats racing against
each other is a one-on-one duel of strategy and
tactics. This year the competitors will sail in IC24s. The
IC24 or Inter-Club 24 was designed and built by two
St. Thomas sailors. It uses a J/24 hull, which is fitted with
a Melges 24-style deck mold that is wider, has no trav-
eler, and is capable of carrying four to five sailors.
"We are really proud and excited to have the
opportunity to host this championship, the first US
Sailing Championship to be held outside of the conti-
nental United States," says event chair, Ruth Miller.
"Women's match racing has been added as an
Olympic event in this Olympiad and the competition is
extremely high. We encourage everyone to come out
to watch this spectator-friendly form of racing."
Founded in 1974, the US Women's Open
Championship was initially developed to serve the
interest of female sailors who wished to compete
against other women at the national level in double-
and single-handed boats. The regattas were orga-
nized along traditional one design racing lines where
boat preparation is a factor, and no eliminations were
required. In 2000, a motion to change the US
Women's Match Racing Championship from fleet rac-
ing to match racing was passed.
The event is sponsored by Rolex Watch USA and Dry
Creek Vineyard.
For more information contact the St Thomas Yacht
Club at (340) 775-6320.

St. Thomas Radiology 4th Annual Women's Regatta
Set for November
Carol Bareuther reports: Promoting woman's tennis
and sailing, and the camaraderie that comes from a
weekend of close competition, is the goal behind the
St. Thomas Radiology Women's Regatta & Tennis
Tournament, held at the St. Thomas Yacht Club. The
tennis portion of the event will take place November
12th to 15th, while sailing will be held November 14th
and 15th.
Girls age 12 and older and women are invited to
enter the regatta portion of the event. Competitors
will race in double-handed Club 420 dinghies. The
race format will be round robins on windward-leeward
and triangular-shaped courses in Cowpet Bay. The
entry fee includes a T-shirt and meals.
The sponsor, St. Thomas Radiology Associates, is a
full service diagnostic imaging center, with a new
Women's Imaging Center that offers services including
bone densitometry assessments, mammograms and
ultrasound studies.
For more information contact the St Thomas Yacht
Club at (340) 775-6320.

Full List Again for ARC 2009
Entries have now closed for this year's Atlantic Rally
for Cruisers (ARC), the 24th edition of this world-
famous annual transatlantic rally that has defied the
economic doom and gloom yet again. The Rally
organizers, World Cruising Club, have now opened a
waiting list after accepting 225 entries for
the 2009 rally.
Continued on next page


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Continuedfrom previous page
There are 28 countries represented in this year's
event, which starts on November 22nd in Las Palmas
de Gran Canaria. The largest transocean sailing
event, every year the ARC brings together more than
200 yachts from all over the world. The destination is
Rodney Bay, St. Lucia. The 2,700 nautical mile passage
on the northeast tradewind route typically takes
between 14 and 21 days.
While fundamentally a fun rally for cruising yachts,
the ARC does have a more serious Racing Division, run
under the auspices of the Royal Ocean Racing Club.
Yachts in the Racing Divisions are not permitted to use
their engines for propulsion (unlike the cruisers),
although use of autopilots is allowed.
The ARC distinguishes itself by successfully combining
racing and cruising yachts with a mix of older and
younger participants, all of whom enjoy the varied enter-
tainment that is on offer at both the start and finish ports.
For more information visit www worldcruising com.
St. Maarten-St. Martin Classic
Announces 2010 Program
West Indies Events and the St. Maarten-St. Martin
Classic Yacht Regatta Organization have announced
th -mlimin-rni rar- m for th Fifth In ,i.tnti.nnl 't


some oq the classic and vintage yachts competing
in the 2009 St. Maarten -St. Martin Classic
Yacht Regatta


Maarten-St. Martin Classic Yacht Regatta. The regatta
will again take place from January 21st through 24th.
The first race is from Great Bay to Marigot, the sec-
ond is from Marigot to Philipsburg and the final day
will see the yachts leaving again out of Great Bay to
return there in the afternoon. The regatta will feature
the battle of Lone Fox and Charm III for the perpetual
trophy. Each yacht has already won the regatta twice
and next year's winner will take home the trophy.
The regatta organization will have its headquarters at
Holland House Beach Hotel on the boardwalk in
Philipsburg. The Skippers' Briefing and official opening
cocktail on the Thursday, the Saturday evening party
and the Award Ceremony on Sunday will be hosted by
Holland House Beach Hotel. The regatta is sanctioned
by the new Sint Maarten-St. Martin Classic Yacht Club.
Course de L'Alliance Island Hop: St. Martin,
St. Barths, Anguilla
Boats from around the Caribbean will rally to three
exciting locations in the sixth edition of the Course de
L'Alliance, November 27th through 29th. Classes will
include spinnaker, non-spinnaker, multihull and open,
and all boats are welcome to enter.
The start is in Simpson Bay, St. Martin. From there all
rlmeone mill menr +n~ I.,otmn in s+ anrthe rremnntitorr e


will overnight there and then set a course to Shoal Bay
in Anguilla. The final leg is back to Marigot and the
Marina Fort Louis, where all competitors receive free
dockage for the evening.
This year the entry fee will be lowered to 100 Euros


from the previous 200 Euros, but participants will be
responsible for their own meals. Registration is
November 26th from 4:00 to 6:00PM, followed immedi-
ately by the skippers briefing.
The event is organized by the Marina Fort Louis and
sanctioned by the Sint Maarten Yacht Club. Sponsors
include Marina Fort Louis, Windward Islands Bank,
Petrosol, Dauphan Telecom, Siapoc, Madco, Interlux
and Kitrad. All boats will sail under CSA rating and
safety rules.
For more information visit www.coursedelalliance.com.
Superyacht Cup Antigua's New Dates for New Year
The Superyacht Cup Antigua, now in its fourth year,
has confirmed new post-Christmas dates with the
Antigua and Barbuda National Parks Authority. The
regatta will be staged from January 27th through 30th,
2010. For the past three years the event has been
held immediately following the Antigua Yacht Charter
Show in December but being so early in the
Caribbean season, several yachts were not able to
get to Antigua in time.
The Caribbean version of the famous Palma event
has been well received and has become popular
with the big yachts; by moving to the end of January,
the regatta will fit in better with more yachts' cruising
plans and thereby enable much greater numbers
to participate.
The RORC Caribbean 600 race, a 605-mile race
around the Leeward Islands starting from Antigua on
February 22nd, will also be a draw to many racing
yachts. Also, "By scheduling our event at the end of
January we will not conflict with Christmas charters
nor be too close to the St Barth's Bucket at the end of
March," explained Event Director Patrick Whetter.
Added to the programme this year will be a Pirates
of the Caribbean Party on the second night and an
option to join the Yacht Hop an open-boat style
party on the third night.
For more information
visit www thesuperyachtcup, com.
Route du Carnaval: February 6th through 16th, 2010
Club Transcaraibes has announced the itinerary for
next year's yacht rally to fun: Route du Carnaval 2010.
On February 8th, the fleet will sail from Port du Marin,
Martinique to St. Lucia (25 nm), on the 9th from St.
Lucia to Bequia (65 nm), and on the 10th from Bequia
to the Tobago Cays (25 nm). On the 11th, a new stop
will be made in the Grenadines: Petit Saint Vincent.
On the 12th, the event's longest leg (110 nm) will
take ralliers to Trinidad to enjoy special access to the
spectacular Trinidad Carnival festivities and an option-
al rainforest tour.
For more information see ad on page 44.
Yacht Rally to Cuba Planned for April 2010
Another Club Transcaraibes rally, the Transcaraibes,
will depart Marina Bas du Fort, Pointe-a-Pitre,
Guadeloupe on April 1st. There will be stops at Marina
Fort Louis in Saint Martin; Marina Casa de Campo, Isla
Catalina, Isla Beata and Bahia Las Aguilas in the
Dominican Republic; lie a Vache, Haiti; Errol Flynn
Marina at Port Antonio, Jamaica; and a gala arrival at
Marina Cienfuegos, Cuba on April 21st.
For more information see ad on page 44.
-Continued on next page


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Continuedfrom previous page
St. Croix Yacht Club Hospice Regatta Teams
with SailProud Apparel
Ellen Sanpere reports: "SailProud Apparel will help
the St. Croix Yacht Club Hospice Regatta 'go green'
in 2010," Regatta Director Julie San Martin says. The
two-year-old company will offer beautifully functional,
sustainable, eco-friendly nautical apparel appealing
to regatta participants, sponsors and visitors.
SailProud founder and president, Phil Tepfer,
explained some of the unique characteristics of his
"Transitional Performance" products, such as
EcoWear Fabric: T-shirts constructed from recycled
plastic bottles woven with certified organic cotton,
which doesn't stick like polyester. It helps to maintain
lower skin temperatures and also offers ultra-violet
protection factors (UPF) in the 40 to 50 range.
Signature CoolBlend polo shirts are made with
Bamboo+, a sustainable resource that acts as an
anti-mildew component in a soft fabric with moisture
wicking and drying properties. They also have rash
guards made from Bamboo+.
SailProud is no stranger to charity events like the St.
Croix Yacht Club Hospice Regatta. Ten percent of
their profit is donated to the Heart of Sailing
Foundation, benefiting developmentally disabled chil-
dren. Additionally, Tepfer captains a boat for the
organization, donates clothing and sponsors a local
chapter of the Foundation.
Participating teams in the St. Croix Yacht Club
Hospice Regatta can order custom embroidery on the
SailProud shirts in order to look extra special at the
famous Cruzan Rum welcome party and throughout
the event.
The St. Croix Yacht Club Hospice Regatta will be
held February 19th through 21st, 2010. Under the
motto "Inspired by Competition Enhanced with
Compassion", the organizers aim to raise funds and
awareness for hospice care on St. Croix. Funds
raised at the St. Croix Yacht Club Hospice Regatta
will go to support the end-of-life medical needs of
St. Croix residents, regardless of their ability to pay.
Over one-third of the island's population is under-
insured or has no health insurance coverage at all,
according to Continuum Care, Inc., a Medicare-
certified company providing hospice care in
the USVI.
The competition promises to be inspiring, with one-
design and dinghy racing in Teague Bay and CSA
handicap racing in the Buck Island Channel.
Cruisers, live-aboards, and heavy displacement ves-
sels with simplified CSA ratings (to accommodate
cubic feet of onboard refrigeration, drinkable
canned goods and wine cellars!) are invited for
Hospice Class racing along the beautiful north shore
of St. Croix.
For more information on SailProud clothing visit www
sailproud. con.
For more information on the St Croix Yacht Club
Hospice Regatta visit www.stcroixregatta com.

New for 2010: Les Voiles de Saint Barth
The 2010 Season will count a new sailing regatta in
the Caribbean: Les Voiles de Saint Barth will be held
April 6th through 11 h. Organized by the Saint Barth
Yacht Club and Comit6 Territorial du Tourisme, and
with the support of Saint Barthelemy's Collectivit6, this
event welcomes all maxi yachts, classics, racing
yachts and multihulls.
This event promises to be competitive, friendly and
festive. In the idyllic setting of Saint Barths, residents,
storekeepers and watersport professionals prepare to
welcome boats and their crews, and look forward to
helping them discover or rediscover this unique island.
For more information
visit www lesvoilesdesaintbarth. com.


FISHING LINES
St. Lucian Anglers Fish in Cuba
Bernard Johnson, Vice President of the St. Lucia
Game Fishing Association, and Francis Compton, Past
President, landed a huge Blue Marlin five miles off the
coast of Havana, Cuba on July 31st, after an hour
and a half of struggle on 50-pound test line. The fish
was caught on the boat Marlin X out of the
Hemingway Marina, skippered by Captain Lima who
once fished with the legendary Fuentes, captain of
Hemingway's boat Pilar, which is preserved in the
Hemingway Museum in Havana. Cubans and St.
Lucians came together to celebrate this exciting
moment, which was the highpoint for the anglers on a
trip to Cuba organized by Rawle Harvey, President of
the St. Lucia Cuba Humanistic Solidarity Association.

Kids Catch Monster Tarpon in Trinidad
Recently, when a 220-pound tarpon was caught by
a fisherman near Gasparee Island in Trinidad, it


right way to go, guys leave some for the next
angler to pursue!

Mappapie Tops Trinidad's Tarpon Thunder
Tournament
Steven Valdez reports: Trinidad will now be market-
ed to offshore anglers as a key destination for tarpon
fishing, as a total of 162 tarpon were caught and
released when 109 anglers fishing on 26 boats partici-
pated in the Trinidad & Tobago Game Fishing
Association (TTGFA) 2009 Tourism Development
Corporation (TDC) Tarpon Thunder Tournament.
The tournament was hosted at the Lure Seafood
Restaurant and Bar, Sweet Water Marina from August
14th through 16th.
Michael De Freitas, fishing on Mappapie, won Best
Angler. Brett Thompson on D' Rog came second, with
Jonathan de La Rosa on board Bobby Breen taking
third. Michael De Freitas will represent Trinidad & Tobago
in next year's IGFA Inshore World Championships.


Left to right: Nicholas Knox, Mark Villain, Jacob Mappapie took the Best Boat category, with De Jep
,i ii. ies, Christian Valdez and in second, Bobby Breen in third. Suzette Aboud and
Si quick pose before releasing Jimmy Aboud, both on board Outcast, won Best
the monster tarpon Female and Best Junior angler respectively.
The Best Foreign Angler was Mike Myatt of Barbie
Doll Too. Mike, Chief Operating Officer of the
sparked the interest of some young boys to hunt for a International Game Fishing Association (IGFA), was
similar catch before the summer holidays came to an invited by the TTGFA to experience the TDC Tarpon
end. Fourteen-year-old Christian Valdez rounded up Thunder Tournament. Mike complimented the organiz-
some friends to fish on his father's boat, Hooker, on ers and sponsors and said that he had fished all parts
the night of August 30th. The fishing trip was a big suc- of the world and had never before seen the kinship
cess, as it resulted in Nicholas Knox catching a mon- that exsted between competitors as in this tourna-
ster tarpon. All the fish caught on Hooker that night ment. He also said that the quantity and large size of
were released unharmed. None were weighed, as a tarpon that were released over the three-day tourna-
result of the releases, so they will never know the ment should make this fishing destination one that
weight of the fish. However, they did learn an impor- anglers from around the globe will want to come
tant lesson about marine fish conservation. That's the and experience.


"CHANDLER


5S BARDYN Ciarla DECKER
















~I GRENADA MARINcE






























.RVA Ms Peri


of the meridian passage (or zenith) of the moon for this and next month, will help you
calculate the tides.
Water, Don explains, generally tries to run toward the moon. The tide starts running
to the east soon after moonrise, continues to run east until about an hour after the
moon reaches its zenith (see TIME below) and then runs westward. F .... i I .11 I
moon's setting to just after its nadir, the tide runs eastward; and : ...i I
nadir to soon after its rising, the tide runs westward. Tin' v. local.
Note: the maximum tide is 3 or 4 days after the new .. i i1 ....
For more information, see 'Tides and Currents" on the back of all Imray Iolaire
charts. Fair tides!


October
DATE TIME
1 2204
2 2246
3 2329
4 0000
5 0015 (full)
6 0103
7 0156
8 0253
9 0352
10 0452
11 0552
12 0649
13 0743
14 0834
15 0923
16 1012
17 1101 (new)
18 1150
19 1243
20 1334


21 1428
22 1521
23 1621
24 1702
25 1749
26 1833
27 1916
28 1958
29 2039
30 2122
31 2207
November
DATE TIME
1 2255
2 2347
3 0000 (full)
4 0043
5 0143
6 0245
7 0346
8 0445
9 0539


0631
0720
0807
0854
0942
1012
1124 (new)
1217
1310
1403
1459
1542
1627
1711
1752
1833
1914
1957
2043
2133
2228


know what you're n ....i .... Isn't it a little early for a Christmas article?
But the truth is, .- I ..-. as if may sound to most cruisers, if you are
beginning to start to commence thinking about possibly going to the
Queen City of the Spanish Main (and you should be), you might want to
think outside the envelope and plan ahead. I'll tell you why.





HNRISM AS



IN CAHT AENA

by Chuck Cherry


Christmas in The Big C is not a single
holiday it's a season. In fact, it is
THE season for Cartagena. Everything
about Christmas in Cartagena comes
early and stays late. A quarter of all
Halloween costumes are distinctively
-AV "Noel", the boughs of holly go up imme-
diately after the candy is divided, and if
you are not in the harbor by early
November, odds are that you won't get
a slip at either marina (Club Nautico or
Club de Pesca) until February. Even the
big day itself is celebrated on the 24th
instead of the 25th.
The festive attitude is enhanced by the
entire month of November -n
Over to the Independence o:
celebrations and the electi I.
Colombia, which is an event of biblical
proportions. Twenty some girls from



",.


Top: As Christmas approaches, manger scenes pop up in neighborhood parks
Above: Youngsters pose in front of this historic port city's walls, decorated for the
holidays withfigures portraying indigenous cultures -and pirates, of course
every state in the nation are collectively paraded around the entire country, in front
of TV cameras, and before a variety of panels where they are questioned, photo
graphed, dressed up and down, and judged. After 30 days and almost as many loca
tions and after absolutely every man, woman and child in Colombia knows abso
lutely everything about each candidate, from what she thinks about world peace to
her favorite song, pet and shade of lipstick, the finalists are finally narrowed to one
at the main event in Governor's Plaza in Cartagena on the night of the city's
Independence Day, November 11th.
Continued on next page












Continued from previous page
This is a seriously major event with all the traditional costumes, celebrities, govern
ment officials, dueling army and navy bands, and thousands of spectators frolicking
to disco music until well after dawn. A relative fort -1 i i,..,. I come.
By the time the queen was crowned last year the :........- 11,11 and the anchor
. i .... -i. the seams. By November, the usual tourist attractions, such as
.. .. old churches, beaches, bars and restaurants, are all spruced up
and decorated for the season. They have to be dolled up considerably to compete
because now comes the tremendous onslaught of special events. There are hosts of
concerts (many of them free in the plazas) with local and international musicians
giving performances in a variety of locales. The theaters put on special holiday
shows, which extend into the weekdays. Several youth shows were among these last
year, and there was even a three-day kind of lollapalooza mini-Woodstock thing for
those so inclined. Several South American rock stars that I couldn't name came
through Cartagena during December 2008. (A little farther afield in Bogota, Elton
John and Madonna made appearances, too.)
If that's not enough to make your tempus fugit, you can buy tickets to one or both
of the two full-blown film festivals. One is for made-for-TV films (they do love their
tele-novelas) and one is for the big screen, complete with real movie stars, glitter and
paparazzi. All together, these gala events go on for more than two weeks.


rP ^"lrzs-4


In her homeport or Christmas last year was the Colombian Navy's sai training
ship, Gloria, offering tours and photo ops
Of some interest to our cruising community was what appeared to be the entire joint
US-Colombian Navy ensemble showing up in the harbor for two to three weeks of... R
'n' R? Some tours were available, and lots of photo ops. This was followed closely by
the arrival of i -1. i i The Gloria is a three-masted tall ship used for train
ing and public i .. -. I .. gained parked at the party boat dock and was avail
able for free public inspection and photos with the crew from nine to five.
The city is decorated for the festive season in a major way, especially in the old
town within the wall. Last year, in addition I 1 .. 1.1.1 -1. v at the clock tower
entrance, the wall itself was adorned with ... II.... 1.1 i pets portraying the
indiginos and various other ethnic cultures, ,, iI I I 'I, a pirate ship whose
occupants were scaling the north wall against heavy resistance.
And then comes the Christmas shopping. As in most South American cities, you
can get:., i ... 11.... hat you want or need on the street. During the season, the
number I -1. I ,, I seems to double so that there is not one square inch of
vacant sidewalk. Then add in all the shoppers and visitors and the streets become a
living, breathing, undulatir.. 1..i. 1 ...I I i..istmas dragon. To the untrained eye
it seems like recurring wa" i i i i ..,,,11. about in a random, happy fashion.
There is, however, a small ....... i ., 11. I -., their madness, as vendors of similar
things tend to group together. A park near the marinas, for example, is taken over
by more than a hundred small booths selling only toys. My personal favorite is the
Christmas tree light section -a couple of blocks almost exclusively devoted to
decorative lighting. You will want to visit this area at night. And of course there are
food and beer stalls. (You can buy the entire skin of a pig face for only two dollars,
a real bargain for pork-rind lovers.) Beneath all the hustle and bustle of the masses
of shoppers and sightseers is a kind of giggle that seems to well up and crescendo
until about:., 1,,. 1, i These people are happy, friendly and a little inebriated.
So as not t I I 11. reason for the season there is a natural escalation of church
services, religious events and fundraisers. Since there are several historical land
mark churches that you will want to visit anyway, the extra decorations and events
make it a good time to go.
A personal favorite of mine, along these lines, is the neighborhood get-together
every night for the nine days before Christmas. They have a little Bible study,
Christmas-type refreshments and then practice a nativity play to be presented on
Christmas Eve. The gathering place is usually the neighborhood park, some portion
of which is transformed early on into a manger. I think you are expected to be there
on all nine nights to be in the play, so this is taken rather seriously. On the 24th,
after the play, the adults start drinking and the children wait anxiously for the mid
night hour, at which time they open their gifts. The parents drink until dawn while
the kids play with their new toys. If you are lucky enough not to have kids, you can
roam the .. .1.1 .1, 1 ,. in your car and drive down toward the old town and
just pull ,i, i I ,, i ... I drink tequila or whiskey on the side of the road while
singing Christmas carols. (This particular time-honored tradition is very similar to
the celebration of the other 30 or 40 national holidays per year.) Last year on my
morning "run" (exaggeration) on Christmas Day I passed six or seven small hardy
groups still singing, all of whom cheerfully invited me to stop for a shot of tequila.
After Christmas the stores in Cartagena are closed and the streets are bare as
people rest up for New Year's. But the inland town festivals are in full swing -this
is the time to head for the mountains and watch Medallin, Cali and Manizales turn
into theme parks for two weeks. Catch the first bullfight of the South American sea
son in Cali and watch the carnival parades, rodeos and decorations of thousands of
flowers as the mountain towns turn out with their favorite festival music to dance in
the streets. You will have a little more than 30 days to sample the festivities in the
different towns before returning to Cartagena for carnival in February (really
Barranquilla is better, but Cartagena is close).
Then you can relax and nji-' thi off season, lolling on uncrowded beaches on
weekdays, getting into ... I ... restaurant without a reservation, and resting
up to sail onward... or to celebrate the next Christmas in Cartagena.
Chuck and Monica live aboard the Cherry Bowl, cruising the Caribbean and enjoying
talking about it.


BUDGET
MARINEIN








SAILMTAKINC


v EEPCTRON ICS


S New Sad lCanvas
wage up o 16rmm
Gear & Furlers in Stock 0 All '*f r.ngs srod
Hydruul.c repair slohion
Deck layout specialist Hydroul repai slon
Elocironan
Spice Island Marine & Grenada Marine Boatyard
Tel/Fax (473) 439-4495 lurbsail@spiceisle.com













I ALL AHORE..


Prologue
Human history on Grand Cayman began as a battle
of good versus evil. Good settlers and their oxen
arrived prepared to forge a new existence of adventure
some happiness, but evil mosquitoes thwarted their
efforts. Grand Cayman was Mosquito Global
Headquarters. The mosquitoes were unprepared to
welcome these newcomers as equals, but rather placed
them at the lowly hierarchical status of snack.

by h ........ ,
n o ,I ...... I .
quitoes could drop an animal (dead) from sheer plans
I Nobody walked anywhere without their
Si Grand Cayman was an educational fore
shadowing of what hell might be like.
Until Dr. Marco Giglioli arrived, that is. Giglioli was
a veteran of mosquito wars and had come to execute a
full-scale genocide.
He began L-- -Ir ;i;; tw- =---i-."= vhich reduced
the breeding ,.. .... i i I... ... ..I A fish known
to munch on larval youngsters was slipped into
remaining waters. Giglioli conducted aerial spraying to
subdue remote guerillas.
The tides turned. Settlers poured in. To avenge
their historical oppression humans built fancy roads,
grocery stores and banks over ancient mosquito
breeding grounds.
These days the Mosquito Research & Control Unit
(est. 1965) police what remains of the evil horde,
and except during ambush hours people are free to
be carefree.
Cayman Days
One without reservations has little choice but to
accept whatever rental car is left on the lot. In our case
this was an electric-blue Chevy Spark, an automobile
so tiny it may or may not become the next official
clown car at your local circus.
We scooted off toward Morritt's Resort, where my
parents used their timeshare to book a carefree week
on Grand Cayman. My girlfriend Yllithia and I mus
cled in on the good time. Since we arrived first, we
thought it'd be a good gesture to crank the air condi
tioning to the arctic level my Pops finds habitable and
stock the fridge.
The supermarket was our first real indicator that
Grand Cayman was no ordinary Caribbean isle.
Imported goods were stacked floor to ceiling, include
ing things new and delicious to us: i.e. Joseph Banks
Cassava Chips. Industrial :fri:- .t -; sent a frosty
breeze wafting over ripe i,,,,- d vegetables.
Caucasian expats in aprons dished out product sam
ples. Free food and nary a derelict in sight!
Our room at Morritt's was up three flights of stairs
that guaranteed no weight :r-- on this vacation. Our
balcony commanded a I the Caribbean. Below
was a swimming pool where tourists in wetsuits and
dive gear sank with their instructor until their bottoms
hit bottom. Look at your dri l ."- -. I thought, and
behold the awesome thrill i II,, I deep!
It was dark when we went down to the clown car to
pick up the parents. I opened the door, realized that I
forgot something in the room, and went to get it. In the
meantime every mosquito in Grand Cayman piled in
for the ride. The next half hour was not a drive so
much as struggle for survival. By the time the parents
wedged in, the car had been reupholstered in bloody
mosquito bits. It was traumatizing.
For much time afterward, great fiery balls of fear and
loathing rolled about within me. Mosquitoes consumed


dO-SQUITO UIS. TORY 0ANr


A GRANy CAYTeAN


V ACTION CROSS I. TIS
by Ryan Weaver


my subconscious. I took extravagant measures to
avoid them: curfew at sunset; sleep in well past early
morning; avoidance of shady corners -1 =t.;n.nt
air... these measures worked, and the .... ..... 11 i
of the mosquito nightmare faded.
Grand Cayman is worth a tourist's time for its water.
Snorkel, scuba, swim, float -just get in the water.
Every day we drove to a new snorkel spot: Rum Point,
Public Beach, Old Man Bay, Hell, Cemetery Beach,


and many nameless sanctuaries found at the ends of
pathways curving into the trees.
A favorite locale of Pops' and mine was Blowholes.
We were on our way back to Morritt's from a res
taurant one evening and stopped to marvel at
Blowholes. A good swell could send a plume of
water rocketing up 20 or 30 feet (I didn't exactly
have a tape measure handy).
-ontinued on next page


No mosquitoes here. In Grand Cayman, whatever you do, do it in the water!


- flAR
YANMAKFiw


FRED MARINE


Guadeloupe F.W.I.


iMarina Pdinle-ii-Pilre 97111 YAlAR
PPhime: +590) 59 ) 9017 137 Fax: +59)1 59; ) 9)18 651 AT U
-TOHATSU
E-mail: lnec l :i ne "a til a 1h..

SERVICES GOODS FOR RENT
Mechanics and Electricity Genuine parts Yanmar & Tohatsu High pressure cleaners 150/250bars
Boat Maintenance Basic spare parts (filters, impellers, belts) Electrical tools
Engine diagnosis Filtration FLEETGUARD Diverse hand tools
Breakdown service 24/7 Anodes,Shaft bearings Vacuum cleaner for water
Haulout and hull sand blasting Electric parts, batteries Scaffolding
Equipment for rent Primers and Antifouling International
Technical shop Various lubricants

LEAVE YOUR BOAT IN SKILLED HANDS


i. .


-.... .1.-~-


l L











continued from previous page
Pops and I marched down and inched closer and
closer to the hole. The rocks were slick, the blast tre
mendous. We returned drenched and happy to an
unimpressed and somewhat embittered audience.
East End's relative seclusion suited us well, but the
time came when Georgetown could no longer be
avoided. Yllithia and I went scuba diving. Mom


hopped on the Atlantis submarine because she want
ed to see what 100 feet under the ocean looked like
once in her life.
I hadn't yet plunged to anywhere near 100 feet
myself, but on our first dive I was surprised to hit 115
feet. It was an accident, really. Everybody emerged
from his or her underwater journeys with bragging
. i ". ... 1 Cayman is blessed with a healthy
I. i,,i 1 I I ij reef.
The four of us could heretofore sit back and loaf
without guilt because in every wish list box lay a check
mark. Except maybe one. I thought I could ignore it,
this little hike, but as the trip neared an end it nagged
me with hideous persistency.
"There'll be too many mosquitoes," everyone said.
This was certainly true, for the Mastic Trail cut
through the very capital of their refuge. We could see
it from our back deck: the largest ..i.... ... tract of
old growth forest (two million yea I ij I I in the
Caribbean ot--t-:i.- off unmolested, dense, muggy,
dark and ..i i I. jurisdiction of the Mosquito
Research & Control Unit.
But it was more than just the hike. The Mastic Trail
was where one was most likely to spot the Cayman




0 1


O- sfl--








i i
'''i


3M

111ar




~rule



I u
p S||fi


Island Parrot. I'd never seen a wild parrot but cer
tainly liked the idea of it. And this was an endemic wild
parrot. If I didn't see it now I might never get another
chance. "Mastic Trail" might be my final whisper on
the deathbed....
These and other melodramatic sentiments finally
convinced Yllithia to accompany me. It was our
last day.


during wares, and were probably molested ceaselessly
by mosquitoes.
Yet as we hiked, only a few humongous loners
flapped by like the skeletons of small birds and did not
seem interested in challenging our trespass. When the
dirt turned muddy we saw that we were surrounded by
ancient swampland. I was satisfied.
On the way back a raucous cry arose from some
nearby fan palms. There sat three of Grand
Cayman's endemic parrots. They squawked
at one another and at the weather and at
politics, shattering the air with melodious
soliloquy. One of them even flew away for
our viewing pleasure.
We stood in awe of them.
Conclusion
Despite the fact that the bloodthirsty mos
quito is a persistent evil, Dr. Giglioli did suc
ceed in shattering their once invincible ranks.
Physically and emotionally. For although they
still join forces for vicious night raids, one
senses that they do so mostly as a consola
tion prize. At all other hours their influence
is negligible.
On Grand Cayman today water sports are
mandatory and land adventures like the
Mastic Trail ought not to be missed -at
least not for fear of mosquitoes. As a matter
of fact, this is likely the last document that'll
bother to mention them at all. For although
the puny hunters will always exist on Grand
Cayman, the significance of their existence
has been reduced to an exercise for the
improvement of hand-eye coordination.

Left: Yllithia and I went scuba diving
on the healthy reef. I hit 115 feet. No
mosquitoes there, either


Below: When the dirt turned muddy
we saw that we were surrounded by
ancient swampland. I was satisfied




I. ...


The sun was just rising. We
had no bug spray. On the scale
of Poor Planning this rated some
where near a perfect 10. But as
we started jogging nervously
through the brush, kicking holes
in the humidity and the spider
webs, there ensued no ambush.
Perhaps here where few people
ventured the mosquitoes just
rolled over, punched the snooze
button and slept in.
The Mastic Trail smells good.
It's beautiful in a humble way.
Its history inspires: blazed in
the .... i i. .... I i yield-
ing .. I i the
Mastic Trail provided a commer
cial route (shorter than the
coastal circuit) from the North
End to Bodden Town. Mahogany
logs were sunk in the wetland to
help delineate the path. Oxen
and mules trudged along, should


9 9 -L t d.I


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Snorkeling Equipment
Fishing Gear


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Paint Brushes
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Hand & Power Tools
Houseware & Cookware


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CRUISER PROFILES BY JOHN ROWLAND


MAX AND MARK ON BLUE BEYOND

S/V Blue Beyond is a Moody 54 crewed by Max and Mark. This UK-flagged yacht
came to the Caribbean with the 2008 ARC.
Starting 20 some years ago with a 22-foot boat and four young children "tied to |
the guard rails", Max and Mark learned and honed their sailing skills in the often -
inhospitable waters of England's eastern shore and Channel Islands. As the years
passed, their ..i... adventures took them down the European coast and to the
Canary Islanc- .11. the children approaching adulthood and the pressures of L
their healthcare-related business becoming more difficult to deal with as each year
passed, Max and Mark began to focus on execution of a long-time dream, a cruis
ing life. It took a year to find Blue Beyond and another year to make her ready.
With the last of their brood finishing university this year, they've made the dream
a reality. They have the skills and experience to support their dream, as evidenced
by the "jury rig" repair made to compensate for the bolt that maintained the ten-
sion on their lower stays, which broke while they were underway on the ARC.
The Moody 54 Blue Beyond (below) has carried Max and Mark
(at right) to a life offreedom and creativity

When asked to compare sailing in Europe with the Caribbean, they replied, "In
Europe, especially in England, everything is marinas. The seas roll in off the
Atlantic and boats need protected berths. In the Caribbean there are so many
anchorages it provides far greater freedom. The islands are safe, as long as you
take reasonable precautions. The islanders are friendly. We treat people respect
fully and are treated respectfully in return. The weather is better and far more
predictable than the North Atlantic. Sailing in the Caribbean is as close to true
freedom as we have ever been."
.. .......... Max loves to cook. She says, "I like the idea of fewer choices in the islands.
You don't need fifty brands or varieties to choose from. Here, if it's in season, it's
available; if not, it's not there. If the container came in, there is more to choose
from; if not, that's okay. It's fun to be creative with what's available." Max has
written a book on cooking on a boat. I'll be watching for it in the future.
The future for Blue Beyond includes going north to the East Coast of the US.
Her crew wants to explore the area and, perhaps, fulfill a wish in Mark's life.
Mark is a qualified level three rugby coach and misses the coaching. There is an
apparent in-r-- 1. Tn1i1rt P .t 1-r in North America. Mark hopes to pick up
a coaching "I 'I I ... I while they explore. After North America, it
will be back into the islands, over to Panama and into the Pacific, following Blue
Beyond's name around the world.





Simplicity.




Reliability.




Long life.

NORTHERN LIGHTS

Marine eneratrs vvw niorther I i"''',,om



Antigua Grnd S'I= 1.TJ3Iit I."l I'John St'Thomas ITortofAW la 'J













DIFFERENT BOATS...



Andre and Gertrude


Bny Local

by Norman Faria
The much-touted "Buy Local" mantra from governments regarding agricultural
products and vehicles, for example, can also extend to boats. And Canadians Andre
Demarais and Gertrude D'Asjous did just that when in 2003 they were shopping
around for a cruising boat to make an Atlantic/Caribbean circuit.
They spoke with Compass while relaxing in Barbados's C-rlil rn--;; in
the steel sloop OrcaMinor. It is a Chatan 33. Designed by F. .. i....... i .... I
built in Quebec province.
"Yes, we do quite a bit of boat building in Canada and even designing, though the
design is an exception. Remember the Bluenose? There is even a certain amount of
Canadian-made yachting gear. Our self-steering rig, the Cape Horn brand by Yves
Gelinas, for example, is Canadian made. Buying local is a good concept, but I must
confess this is my first and last boat," said Andre.







M Andre and
Gertrude
enjoying the
good life in
Barbados before
heading back
to Quebec




The Montreal based couple achieved what they set out to do and expect to sell the
boat on their return to Canada. Their original idea of wanting a "chalet in a marina
seems to have -h Hr-- t si r along the line.
The main air, I a, .. .4 twofold: to see and compare islands and to do
some "good hiking". So: gone well. They left Quebec City on the St. Lawrence
River where the boat was bought in 2003. They wintered in 2004 in the Thousand
Islands. In July 2008 they departed Montreal and had an uneventful crossing to
Cape Breton via the Azores and Madeira.
Orca Minor is a flush deck version of a design influenced by Bernard Moitessier's
boats. The firm made 24 of them. Andre, an electronics engineer, said he was very
specific about what he wanted for the trip: a strong steel hull to survive a reef
grounding, standing headroom in the cabin and a reliable engine (the boat's original
1980 23 horsepower Volvo still putters along) were among the main desires. He knew
what he wanted because he had visited the Caribbean area many times on other
people's boats. He also taught sailing in Quebec.
The trick of succeeding on such a .. .- I ., I. i, maintains. And he feels
the reason they've had only minor I, ..i. I i.- I his "looking into all the
eventualities" before they set out.
Gertrude, a retired physical therapist, says the trip has revealed a new meaning to
the word "exercise".






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the Caribbean Compass at any of these locations (advertisers in this issue
appear in bold):


Art Fabrik
Budget Marine
De Big Fish
Essentials Mini Market
Grenada Marine
Grenada Yacht Club
Island View
Island Water World
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Marine World
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McIntyre Bros
Port Louis Marina
Prickly Bay Marina
Spice Island Marine
Tikal
Turbulence Sails
True Blue Bay


...FOR DIFFERENT FOLKS


A WORLD CRUISE

EDUCATION

by Norman Faria
"If we didn't go now, we prob
ably won't have another chance,"
says Carmen ^11 1.
readytoputy 'I I- i I
homemade bread dough into the
oven on board the Pahi class
catamaran moored in Barbados'
Carlisle Bay.
"More importantly," she con
tinues, "with two young kids s1
aged eleven and three and a
half, it was a good time to take
them as part of their education."
She and her husband Olivier
bought the James Wharram
designed 42footer four years ago
in Italy. They wanted a spacious,
easily handled and ,i,, -
that is soft" cat with I
space. Up until the Barbados
visit, the plywood craft has lived
up to expectations. They had
previously owned or rented dif
ferent boats, such as a Puma 26,
on Lake Geneva.
They have high praise for
Wharram, the British 1
who researched and I ...
the boat building and navigation
skills of the Pacific Islanders for

people would laugh at us, saying
we were going back to prehistoric Bread's ready! A Wharr am designed Pahi cat
days. But 1-- ... .... i is cruising home for the Allemra family
forgiving .- 1 .
cially when you cruise with children. A lot of people don't understand Wharram,"
says Carmen.
The boat, which flies the Belgian flag, has held up well. Auxiliary power is two
15 horsepower four stroke Suzukis.
Unlike the case with most other Pahis, the Alleras had a special cockpit area tent
specially made to keep out the sun and other harsh elements. There were other
gear changes and improvements made in preparation for what they see as a three
year sojourn.
They expect to follow the basic route taken by Ge .1i ... i Ti, 1 1
the previous owners (and builders of the boat) who c ......... I I
to 2005. The kids will be doing distance schooling.
The family left Gibraltar in September 2007. They make good passages with the
Pahi, averaging 150 miles a day with good wind and sea conditions.
One of the excitements while in port, especially for the kids, is to take their Walker
S I ten foot sailing dinghy for spins around i1 ...'. i .. It is also a backup
SI Saves outboard fuel, too, while heading b I I.. I I I t ,i ..J.i. dock.
Baking the bread is a money saver as well as cutting back on I I., II -. sim
ple,' Carmen says as she kneads some more dough on the main cockpit table, "and
always fresh!"


I have been in the insurance business
48 years, 44 with Lloyds, and my claims
settlement record cannot be beat.
Fax DM Street
Iolaire Enterprises (353) 28 33927
Sor e-mail: streetiolaire@hotmail.com
www.street-iolaire.com












THE TRADITION PROJECT


I saw a large Carriacou sloop and visualized her with the deckhouse removed and her lovely
sheer shown off to best advantage...
Carriacou and Petite Martinique surely have the Norman mentioned that his plans had changed; he
largest remaining fleet of wooden sailing working boats would consider selling her. The price he mentioned
left in the Eastern Caribbean. would hardly cover the cost of the work he had done,
During a visit to Carriacou in April 2008 I went to but then that's the way of wooden boats.
Windward beach to watch a Carriacou sloop eventu After a few weeks' dithering I agreed to buy her. I had
ally named Ocean Nomad) being built by Alwyn Enoe . ... ... 1 ..... i . .
There were about eight men working on her, fitting i .. I I ... i .1 ..11. i ..
planks, building cabin sides, caulking seams, and nights followed as I realized what I had taken on.
drilling for keel bolts. It was great to see these tradi Where would I find deadeyes, mast hoops, galvanized
tional skills in action, rigging and so on -an apparently endless list?
Walking farther along the mangrove-lined black Norman introduced me to Gordon Patrice, who had
sand beach and around a headland I saw, hauled onto just re-decked Tradition He agreed to take on the project
the land 1.;--- 1 Carriacou sloop hull. I was struck -f; .--i, th1, big deckhc;; -1-l-in in the resulting
by her .,a,,i,,i i ... I ... I i...., a smaller I.
The owner, Norman Roberts, told me that his father, On Day One of the project, Gordon, Fitzroy McLaren
Urbin, built her some 30 years previously and had and Leonard McLaren set to wo i i -..... ...
traded her as a sailing cargo vessel, mainly between deckhouse with saws and chisels. -.... i 1 ,I, i,,..
St. Barths and Carriacou. St. Barths was a free port in cargo boat for St. Vincent, hopefully to return with
those days and one could legitimately trade in wines, more pitch pine planking for the deck.
- i i ,. 1 1 .I ...... was Tradition and she Templates for the new deck beams were made and I
S .. i .-kindly vessel, began making a mock-up of a smaller deckhouse out
Norman was giving her a rebuild and preparing her of ply. Gordon, Fitzroy and Leonard all had different
for use as a motorized cargo vessel. Latterly, she had ideas on what the shape of the new deckhouse should
been fitted with an aluminium mast and Bermudian be, so my plan went out the window. The mock-up was
mainsail, much easier to handle than the original modified until we had something in keeping with the
gaff rig. vessel. It should provide good headroom below, access
I climbed on board and saw that she had new pine to the engine room and a couple of bunks aft.
decks, with massive white cedar deck beams and We were now ready for the new aft deck beams,
knees. She had also been replanked and refastened which were to be of white cedar. Gordon had such
throughout, with a new stem fitted and the complete trees on his land, but had been reluctant to cut them
stern rebuilt. Norman had added a new deckhouse down earlier, being insistent that they should only be
with four bunks and a wheelhouse. I visualized her felled when the moon was well on the wane, even
with the deckhouse removed and her lovely sheer though this meant that the guys would lose a few days'
shown off to best advantage, work. The theory is that timber cut at the wrong phase


Dismantling the big deckhouse, intended
for cargo runs
of the moon will be prone to rotting. All credit to the
guys, it was more important to them that the job be
done correctly than they earn an extra day's pay.
The gang eventually went into the bush with chain
saws to look for suitable trees, and by the next day
rough shaping of the six-inch-square beams started
with chainsaw, axes and adze.
Carriacou sloops are built with a wooden trunking
through which the wooden rudderstock passes. This is
a massive lump of timber, but has an inherent prob
lem in that it is impossible to keep the inside of the
trunking and the rudderstock protected from worm

-~ ,


Adelaide B loading at the Carenage in St. George's
Grenada
and borers, and they also rot. Testimony to this was
the number of discarded, worm-eaten rudder trunks
lying around ashore. Tradition's new rudder would be
steel with a stainless stock passing through a cutlass
bearing and stern gland. Very logical and possibly a
-. i -; ,t but we didn't know how the vessel
,, I .. 11 ... I r sail with it.
Continued on next page


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-ontinuedfrom previous page
Unfortunately, Norman had been unable to buy
adequate pitch pine planking for the decks in St.
Vincent, so Fitzroy and I took the ferry to Grenada
where we were promised good timber. We were also on
a mission to find a 60-foot mast.
I had heard that there were long telegraph poles to
be found in Grenada and I pleaded with Grenlec to sell
me one, which they kindly agreed to do. Very accom
modating of them, as with hurricane season approach
ing, they might have needed all the poles they could
get. From a huge pile of the great poles, we selected
one that looked straight and sound and marked it. It
was 60 feet long with a 14-inch diameter at the base
and weighing goodness knows what.
The Adelaide B, a wooden inter-island trading vessel,
was leaving for Carriacou the next day from the
Carenage in St. George's. I asked Buly, the skipper/
owner, how much it would cost to ship the mast up to
Carriacou. "A hundred and fifty EC," he told me. No
crane was available, so the crew of the Adelaide B
hoisted the pole on board from the truck using the
ship's block and tackles; she is still rigged and uses
sail. I stayed away as the prospect of lifting such a
weight with their gear was scary.
But the next Saturday morning, there was the pole
in Hillsborough, sticking out over the bow of the
Adelaide B like a huge bowsprit. Unfortunately the
mast was needed at Windward, on the other side of the
island, and it was unlikely that it could be transported
al I,. 1 ... 1.... .. hilly roads.
I "'' I I lI "Okay, we come up outside de
Windward reef and drop it over de reef, and you tow it
to Windward." "No," I said, "You'll be on a lee shore
., i i ting dark. Take it to Petite Martinique; we'll
SI.... there." So they did (how they got it over
board I'll never know, but we did agree that Buly
should get twice his original quote for the shipping),
and Fitzroy went over in his motorboat in the early
hours on Sunday and towed it to Windward beach.
The deck beams were all in place and work com-
menced fairing them to ensure an even camber to the
decks. Gordon, on his own initiative, had put in car
lines to make a lazarette hatch in the back of the aft
deck. I had hoped for a clear aft deck, but the hatch
makes for a huge under-deck locker and was the right
thing to do.
Gordon had also modified my plans for the shape of
the new deckhouse by running the carlines in line with
the bulwarks and not square with the front of the deck
house, which meant that the deckhouse would be four
inches narrower at the aft end than at the front. He said
very firmly, "That's the way we do it, Frank." A good
thing too, as the final result gives a clearer deck space
at the sides of the deckhouse and looks just right.
The shipwrights were short of one deck beam. Rather
than cut down another tree, they found a chunk of
greenheart timber lying in the mangroves. It had been
the keel of a wrecked sloop. This was a piece of very
hard wood, about eight inches by four inches thick.
They dragged it to our work area and Fitzroy set about
shaping it. He stood on the timber, using an adze
between his spread-apart bare feet. He carved out the
shape of the beam with a camber to match the others,
and still has a complete set of toes.
Prices for sails were coming in and I was very pleased


to get an acceptable quote from Turbulence Sails in
Grenada, who had built sails for similar Carriacou
sloops in the past.
While in Grenada, I'd also seen a notice on a "for
sale" board, offering some sails. It turned out that they
came from Moonshine, a very fine double-ended Fife
ketch that met her demise in Hurricane Ivan. A stay

Hpi^irA- -lm


Patrice and McLaren at work. Tradition's new deck
beams and the carlines for a smaller deckhouse
are in place


sail and two Yankee jibs, just what Tadition needed
except now she'd certainly need a bowsprit!
Carriacou sloops, with their long booms, do carry a lot
of weather helm, and while a bowsprit may not be
practical when they load in restricted berths, it would
surely balance the rig better, and it looked right when
I did a scale drawing.
I still had to find galvanized rigging wire, as I really
wanted to eliminate stainless, not just for rigging, but
for fittings. If the aim was to complete Tradition as she
was when she was built in about 1979, and not produce
a hybrid, then I needed to keep things as they were.
Exceptions would be the engine and the sail material.
At this point, tropical waves started to cross the
islands. This raised another issue: If we were going to
be "rained off for days, what would I i .1 ..
I suggested to the guys that I'd pay ti ...'. h iI I
rain off days. "Why do you want to do that, Frank?"


I began to realize how un-avaricious people are in
Carriacou, and it took some getting used to after the
more "modern" world up-island. Many Carriacou ship
wrights are fairly self-sufficient even without the boat
building; they often have some land to grow provisions
and raise some livestock, and can get by quite well
without the likes of me.


- a. a .-


For these men, working on a sloop that is to be a
"yacht" was not really a priority -the working boats
must come first. At one time, during a period of windy
weather when the fishing boats were reluctant to go
out, they took the time to make repairs. Some six
boats, all between 30 and 50 feet, were hauled for
repair. One boat's bottom was in poor condition. She
was hauled on the Monday, bottom planking off on
Tuesday, new keel bolts fitted and planked up by the
end of the week, caulked and ready to launch the fol
lowing week, with only two shipwrights on the job.
Asfori, I I '.i.l i I I I il Tradition,
itwas to .- i 1 1 . I I I ... of where
we were ,, .... i ''l 1. .. .... along to
see the project. Then I saw this somewhat huge vessel
of mine, hauled up on the black sand, surrounded by
palm trees and mangroves, propped up on wooden
rum barrels, and the wonderful aspect looking sea
ward over the calm waters inside the Windward reef,
then across the glorious colour of the sea to the
islands of Petite Martinique and Petit St. Vincent.
Next month, Part Two: Boom, Bowsprit and Deckhouse.


Bequia Marina


Open Monday to Saturday 8:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m.
Look for the Big Blue Building.
Water, Diesel, Ice, Bottled Water and Dockage available.

The Yacht Club, Bequia Marina, Port Elizabeth, Bequia,
St. Vincent & The Grenadines
VHF 68, Telephone 784-457-3361


CREW VACANCIES!

Semail: crew@tradewindscruiseclub.com
TradeWinds Cruise Club operate a fleet of catamarans across
r*oAEwNos six destinations in the Caribbean.
We are the fastest growing charter company,
operating TERM CHARTERS, all inclusive, 7 days.
We are looking for crew, mainly teams in the form of a Captain and a Chef/Hostess.
We prefer couples that are married OR have been living together for at least a year.
The nature of the job is such that the better the understanding and t-a...*
between Captain and Chef the more successful your charters will be.
Requirements: Captain with a Skipper's licence.
Chef/Hostess with a basic understanding of cooking.
Dive master/ instructor for either the Captain and/or Chef is a plus.
We offer full training onsite in the Caribbean.
This is a FUN job with great earning potential. If you are willing to work hard and
have a positive disposition to life this could be your DREAM job.
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If you would like more information about this job or send your CV to us, _1I.- .
use this email address:

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or by mail to: Bequia Marina, P.O.Box 194BQ, Port Elizabeth,
Bequia, St Vincent & the Grenadines
Tel. St Vincent +784 457 3407 Tel. St Maarten +599 5510550














=the past 48 years I have listened to
S stories of boats ."--1.. ';th from
F O RL the East Coast ci 't. I I States
to the Caribbean. Some were such
idyllic trips that the crew never once put on their foul
weather gear. Some trips were a bit bouncy. And other
times, boats ran into major storms. Some of these lat
ter trips resulted in damage or disaster, losing boats
or even crews. Many years ago I quit counting when
my 39th friend or acquaintance was lost while doing
this trip.
Obviously this is not a passage to be lightly under
taken. Your boat and crew must be prepared to face
heavy weather. Before you go out and put your boat to
the test, make some practice runs. In your home
waters when a 1 hard blow comes i .
your boat out .,, I put the bricks to h -
any deficiencies in both boat and crew. Take your boat
back in, rectify the deficiencies, then go out in a sec
ond blow. This time you will be much better prepared
than you were the first time. Then go home again and
rectify any deficiencies that are still not corrected. And
so on. Then, when you eventually head offshore and
run into a bad blow, both the crew and boat will have
been through similar experiences before, so no major
problems should be experienced.
Unfortunately, many recreational sailors fail to fol
low this advice; instead, they take off from the East
Coast and run into their first truly bad weather at
sea. The crew becomes petrified. When they arrive in
St. Thomas, the boat is put on the market -and
there ends their dream of an idyllic winter cruise in
the Caribbean.
JUMPING-OFF POINTS
Points from Newport to New York
I strongly advise NOT heading directly offshore from
this area (i.e. taking Routes I, II or III on the map). It's
much better to go coastwise down to Little Creek,
Virginia, near Norfolk at the mouth of the Chesapeake
Bay or, if your boat will pass under the 65-foot bridge
south of Norfolk on the ICW, farther on to Morehead
City/Beaufort.
I say this because the autumn weather window for
heading south is very small. If you leave in October or
early November, there is too much danger of encoun
tering a late-season hurricane. The NOAA hurricane
book (available from National Climatic Data Center,
Federal I ...i .... 151 Patton Avenue, Asheville, NC
28801-,,,1 I J shows that in the last 25 years
there have been more hurricanes in late October and
early November than there had been in the previous
hundred years.
Unfortunately, as each week goes by in November
the weather on the East Coast of the States becomes
more and more unstable, to the point that by the end
of November the weather forecasts are only good for 24
to 36 hours.
Continued on next page


Coming to the Caribbean


from the US East Coast


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-ontinued from previous page

Boats can take off from the northeast coast of the
States in the face of a northwester, with glorious sail
ing, clear visibility and the wind aft of the beam, but
all too often the northwester then swings around to
north and finally northeast. A 25 to 30-knot (and
sometimes more) : .i. I I 1 ... against a two or
three-knot currerl ... II. ..1 -i. .... produces sea
conditions varying from dangerous to disastrous.
Unless you have a yacht that can continually knock
off nine knots or more, your chances are minimal of
leaving the northeast coast of the United States and
getting across the Gulf Stream on a weather window
when the weather predictions are only good for 24 to
48 hours.
Thus, if you are departing from Newport, I recom-
mend heading down the coast, through Long Island
Sound. If a blow comes I J... there are
plenty of places to stop. II .. I ick up the
beginning of the fair tide at South Norwalk,
Connecticut, and maintain a six-knot speed
through the water, you can carry that tide If
all the way down Long Island Sound through
Hellsgate, New York Harbour, out through
Sandy Hook and on down the New Jersey dE
shore. This is where a northwester coming
offshore gives a glorious sail with smooth
water; it will really blow you on your way.
A good eye must be kept on the weather,
because from New York Harbour to the
mouth of the Delaware River there are
really no reliable harbours. Similarly, from
the mouth of the Delaware to the Chesapeake
Bay there are no harbours. However, if you
have maintained six knots over the bottom
as you approach the mouth of the Delaware,
take a look. If the weather is going around
to the south and you don't like the look of it, you can
head up the Delaware on a fair tide, pass through the
Chesapeake & Delaware Canal, and still pick up a fair
tide at the northern end of the Chesapeake Bay.
Once in the Chesapeake you can push on south to
Little Creek, Virginia, at the mouth of the bay, or stop
in Annapolis or one of the wonderful little harbours in
the Chesapeake.
If the weather permits, however, when you reach the
mouth of the Delaware you can continue offshore to
Little Creek.
If you can fit under the bridge south of Norfolk,
there is only one way to go south: continue through
the ICW to the Morehead City/Beaufort area. This
is a trip of three days, but if you have the time you
can easily spend a week to ten days doing some
wonderful cruising.
Morehead City/Beaufort
At Morehead City/Beaufort, wait for a good clear
northwester to blow through. You are far enough
south so that although it may be cold, you will not
have to contend with ice, sleet or snow. If you leave at
the top of the tide, carry the tide down to Cape
Lookout. A couple of hours after you leave Cape
Lookout you will be in the Gulf Stream, the north
wester will blast you across, and by the time the north
wester swings around to the north you will be clear of
the Stream. You can then set a course east-southeast


and sail that course "until the butter melts". The
northwester will swing north, then to northeast. If you
are lucky the northeaster will continue right on down
to where you pick up the Trades. Many boats in the
40-foot size range have done this route (Route IV on
the map) from Morehead City/Beaufort to St. Thomas
in seven days.
Work your way east-southeast, until you reach the
longitude of 68 to 70W, as it must be remembered
that in November and early December the Trades are
still likely to be southeast or east-southeast, rather
than east or northeast. This means if you have not
worked your way well east, you will end up hard on the
wind for the last few days of your trip if you are head
ing for St. Thomas.
With a favorable weather forecast, you can leave
from Morehead City/Beaufort at any time from early
Novemberrightup until about December first. However,




n December it is not advisable to try

,part for the Caribbean from Charles

or the ports south of Charleston,

as in that area the Gulf Stream

is well off shore



if you have not left by the beginning of December, you
should either delay your trip until the following year,
or follow the ICW all the way down to Jacksonville or
Fort Lauderdale, Florida.
In December it is not advisable to try to depart for
the Caribbean from Charleston (Route V on the map)
or the ports south of Charleston, as in that area the
Gulf Stream is well off shore. The problem of getting
across the Stream here is roughly the same a tr'in -
to get across the Stream from the northeast I
the States.
Norfolk/Little Creek
If your boat will not fit under the 65-foot bridge on
the waterway near Norfolk, wait in Little Creek until
you obtain a favourable weather report. Then head
east-southeast and try tc I - the Gulf Stream
as fast as you possibly *.. 1I Il. wind goes light,
turn on the mill and motor or motorsail. Don't worry
about running out of fuel -once you are across the
Stream and south of the gale area, if you are out of
fuel .. 1 I 1 .1... 1 ;I isjust a pain in the neck and
a del. I iI ,1 I i't make it across the Stream
within your weather window, you can end up in
disastrous circumstances. There is not enough space
here to list the horror stories. Again, your course is
east-southeast until the butter melts. Work your way
eastward to longitude 68 to 70W, before heading
directly to St. Thomas.


The weather window from Little Creek is basically
the month of November. Come December, forget about
it and wait until next year.
Miami/Fort Lauderdale
If you don't pick your weather carefully when sailing
from the Miami/Fort Lauderdale area to the Virgins
you face a dead beat to windward for 1,200 miles a
miserable trip.
The proper way to getfrom the Miami/Fort Lauderdale
area to St. Tl ... ;. I ; I Grand Bahama and
wait there . i. I -I I. I .-. predicted. You can
take off on the face of a northwest front: it may blow
hard, but the wind will be coming off the land and you
will have a smooth sea. Leave the northeast Providence
Channel and head east for as long as you can. (See
Route VII on map.)
Once the norther dies out and the Trades fill in, fall
off on port tack and see where you end up. Some boats
have been very lucky and have laid St.
Thomas in one tack. Others fetch the
eastern end of Puerto Rico, and some
have only laid the western end of Puerto
to Rico. If you do this you can duck into
Mayaguez, take a rest, recuperate and
restock, then head south and east along
,ton the south coast of Puerto Rico. Make sure
you hav- -n -Tr- 1 1--- -f ctr-t'
Guide: PI I R ... i
Virgin Islands, which describes this area
in detail, complete with sailing instruc
tions. The one problem with taking this
route is that you may enjoy the south
coast of Puerto Rico and the Spanish
Virgin Islands so much you never get to
the rest of the Eastern Caribbean!
Re: hopping along the numerous step
ping stones on Bruce Van Sant's "thorn
less path to windward" from Florida to the
Virgins, or Route VI on the map, you must have unlim
ited time and patience to wait for all those individual
weather windows. You may spend so much time wait
ing for weather that by the time you arrive in St.
Thomas, the hurricane season is approaching again
and it will be a case of either returning to the States,
or quickly IIh... I ida, Trinidad or Venezuela to
be south I II. I...... ... zone!
CHARTS
I advise using the US NOAA charts appropriate to
your routing, and Imray-lolaire charts of the
Caribbean depending on your landfall. (Check Imray
Iolaire chart catalogue at any major US chart sup
plier.) If you are going via Bermuda, use Imray
Iolaire chart E5: Bermuda; plans St. George's,
Hamilton, dockyard marina.

Visit Don Street's website, www.street-iolaire.com. A
new edition of his Transatlantic and Atlantic Islands
Guide is due to be published soon.


B & C FUELS ENTERPRISE
Petite Martinique
The best fuel dock in the Grenadines for:

FUEL OIL WATER ICE



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* Chandlery Tel/Fax: 473.443.8175















PRODUCT POSTINGS

Eco-Friendly Mooring
The EzyRider Mooring and Offset Anchor System is an environmentally friendly, low-
impact, high-strength system for swing moorings. Harnessing naturally occurring
S t buoyancy to dissipate vessel energy,
This mooring method offers safety and
comfort while meeting stringent envi-
S ronmental considerations.
With few moving parts the EzyRider
provides an exceptionally safe and
low maintenance mooring system.
The unique self-centering action
reduces the total amount of required
swing room by up to 50 percent. No
moving parts contact the seabed,
allowing the mooring to be laid in
environmentally sensitive areas con-
taining seagrass or coral reef.
For more information,
visit www ezyridermooring, com.


Innovative Ultrasonic Antifouling
Ultrasonic Antifouling Ltd has announced an unusual way to protect a boat from
fouling. 'The Ultra System' uses sound waves to destroy algae and therefore prevent
weed and barnacle growth. The manufacturers say that The Ultra System is a low
cost, highly effective and completely pollutant-free method that does away with
the chore of the annual painting of the boat's bottom.
Ultrasonic Antifouling Ltd currently offers two models: the Ultra 10 for boats up to 10
metres, and the Ultra 20 for boats up to 20 metres. Each system consists of a control
box and either one (Ultra 10) or two transducers (Ultra 20) and can offer a bespoke
system design facility for more complex installations for example superyachts or tri-
marans. The transducers are bonded to the inside of the boats hull. The system cov-
ers all of the hull and underwater gear. Careful placement of the transducers is the
key to success and a full explanation of the installation is supplied. The system runs
from 12 24 or 230 Volts and draws up to one Amp.
The control box sends a variety of pulsed ultrasonic signals to the transducers, which
in turn emit a series of low power, high frequency sound waves that are virtually
inaudible to the human ear. They create a wall of moving water molecules over the
whole surface of the submerged hull, creating a micro-environment that kills algae.
The science is in the creation of the correct frequencies and the harmonics that
are set up as a result.
Managing Director David Sothcott says, cUntil now, a few people have had half
hearted attempts at the ultrasonic approach to the business of antifouling but
nobody has really indicated any commitment or belief. These previous attempts
have been analogue systems, using up to 40 percent more power than our digital
system and when power is at such a premium in the boating world, this is a
big issue.
sBecause a digital system can use more differing frequencies together, its range
can destroy more algae types and it produces a much clearer ultrasonic sound
wave. As technology advances, and because we use a re-programmable chip, we
can modify the frequencies to suit the conditions, if and when they change."
For more information visit www.ultrasonic-anifouling com

Need a Drink, Quick?
Accon Marine's sleek Quick Release Drink Holders easily snap into the company s
quick release bases keeping beverages from spilling. Constructed from either
marine-grade 316 stainless steel or aluminum, these Drink Holders can be easily
removed with the push of a button. When needed again, they simply snap back
into place. Accon's 401 Series is available in single or double styles and fits standard
size cups. Featuring a surface mount, no difficult measuring or cutouts are required
for installation. Only two #10 screws are needed.
For more information visit www.acconmarine, com.

Don't Get Bugged, Lighten Up
Great for the cockpit or beach barbecues, the ThermCELL Patio Lantern is both a
powerful insect repellent device and a stylish outdoor lantern with both functions
being usable separately or together. Providing a 15 by 15-foot mosquito-free zone, it
is 98 percent effective (tested and used by the US Department of Defense), making
it the most effective insect repellent device on the market. It is also non-toxic, safe
and non-intrusive, being DEET-free, silent, portable and odor free. ThermaCELL utilizes
allethrin an artificial version of a natural insecticide found in chrysanthemum flow
ers. The lantern has a frosted globe and offers two illumination settings. The butane
cartridge that powers the mosquito repellent provides 12 hours of power and is
located on the interior for aesthetics and ease-of-use. The light switch is located on
the base of the lantern and is powered by two AA batteries.
For more information visit www.mosquitorepellenti com.

Imray Apps for Apple iPhones
Imray and software developer Tucabo have launched the first of a series of applica-
tons to run on the Apple iPhone providing quick reference information for sailing crews.


Now available are Marine Rules and Signals and Tides Planner. Coming soon are
Racing Rules (a jointly produced App with the RYA) and Navigation Theory. Other
Apps are in the pipeline and will cover topics including meteorology and first aid.
Following this launch, Imray plans to offer a full chart navigation program for the iPhone,
all based on the successful Imray Digital Chart system, which also runs on PC computers.
Imray Apps are available from www.apple.com/uk/iphone/appstore.


Continued from page 1 ...Caribbean Eco-News
The IWC is scheduled to hold at least three more meetings of the Working Groups
before next year's 62nd a ....... i ... i... ... I cco. Hogarth said that deliberations
leading to the conference ... I .... to be crucial and we therefore need
the involvement of the small developing countries."
It was reported that both Japan and the United States had contributed to a special
fund of up to US$100,000 to help finance the presence of the Eastern Caribbean
countries at three meetings in 2008-09, including sessions in Rome and Florida.
Also at the IWC's ...' ... .. Anthony Liverpool of Antigua was elected vice
chairman, the first ... i.. 'I, Caribbean to be elected to that position. For the
past five years Liverpool has been Antigua & Barbuda's IWC Commissioner and also
Antigua & Barbuda's non-resident Ambassador to Japan. He is a communications
specialist with a Master's degree in NGO management awarded by the London
School of Economics. Liverpool said, "The Commission is facing a serious challenge
to find a compromise between the deeply entrenched positions of those who oppose
whaling and the countries which are for sustainable use of the world's marine
resources. We in the Caribbean favor the sustainable use. But there must be a com-
promise so that the organization can go forward."
The new IWC Chairman is a Chilean diplomat, Cristian Maquieira.

Caribbean Natural Resource Institute Wins MacArthur Award
The Caribbean Natural Resource Institute, CANARI, is among eight nonprofit orga
nizations from five countries that on June llth received this year's MacArthur
Award for Creative and Effective Institutions.
For the past 30 years CANARI has championed participation in the cause of biodi
versity conservation, built alliances among the islands and organizations of the
Caribbean region and increased awareness of the coastal environment and the need
to conserve it.
In addition, the organization has helped to protect watersheds, ensured a role for
civil society in managing threatened natural resources, designed innovative training
i ;.;-;;: and provided useful insights into community based tourism, sustain
.1 i -I' I. and forestry. It is currently .ni. 1- I-ling role in helping govern
ment and civil society in the Caribbean dea I i ,I 1,I i,, i, .... -
the region faces. It also encourages the region's efforts to r i ,, I.
environmental and development goals.


For the past 30 years, CANARI has increased awareness of unique coastal
environments like this one in Dominica

Executive Director of CANARI, Sarah McIntosh, told the --- '. 1.--1; -rganiza
tion Panos Caribbean (panoscaribbean.org) that the awar i I I - '....... would
contribute greatly to their strategic development and help to position them for con
tinued long term growth and impact.

OECS Launches Biodiversity Awareness Campaign
The Organization of Eastern Caribbean States (OECS) launched its I i -,, '
Eastern Caribbean Region's Biodiversity Project in July. The goal ci i i
known as PERB, is to raise awareness of the need to protect ecological systems as a
critical issue in the Eastern Caribbean's development, especially when there are
,. tih intereststs at odds with conservation and preservation.
11 i -. islands form the easternmost boundary of the Caribbean region and
these islands are rich in biodiversity, including terrestrial systems such as coastal
and rain forests, and marine systems such as mangrove wetlands, seagrass beds
and coral reefs. However, there are signs of degradation of these fragile systems and
their associated species and environmental services are at risk. This degradation is,
for the most part, associated with poorly planned developments, population growth,
unsustainable agricultural and tourism activities, pollution and overexploitation of
natural resources.
The OECS member states Anguilla, Antigua & Barbuda, the British Virgin
Islands, Dominica, Grenada, Montserrat, St. Lucia, St. Kitts & Nevis, and St. Vincent
& the Grenadines have expressed their commitment to the conservation and sus
tainable use of biodiversity, recognizing its importance to economic growth and the
sub region's way of life.

One Tiny Islet, 350 Kilos of Trash
On September 6th, members of Fundaci6n La i ,, .... i i, lunteers col
elected some 350 kilos of trash from the tiny island i ..... I .' i ,,, Venezuela's
Mochima National Park. The most common items collected were plastic soft drink
bottles. An empty two litre bottle weighs about 50 grams. Every week, thousands of
these bottles and other
plastic items are dis
posed of irresponsibly by


S waterways into the sea
by heavy rains, causing
an unsightly mess and
endangering coastal and
marine wildlife. FLT
reminds us all to use
less plastic, and when
we do to recycle it or
dispose of it properly.














CRUISING KIDS' CORNER


by Lee Kessell



The kids across the Caribbean were out trick or treating on October 31st and in a
pretty, mountainous souther- i1 .'' 1 1. :'iup was on its way, led by 12-year
old Jake. But Jake thought li. I ',. i.... I to door was too tame so he had a
plan to liven things up. He grumbled, "I want a little adventure for a -h.;:- T
think we should challenge the jumbies in that old plantation house anci 11 i1
a trick or two!"
Five-year-old Mags, who didn't like skeleton costumes, had on her fairy queen
dress, a crown of diamonds on her head and in her hand she carried a wand, tipped
S. 1 star, and she didn't want to go TRICKING JUMBIES! The other
., ,, i of jumbies, too, and said so. Mags' brother Micky and some of
the older boys agreed with Jake, but there was one problem: spooks were meant to
ride out at midnight and they couldn't wait that long.
"Jumbies will leap out at you anytime once it's dark, so that's not a problem at
all," countered Jake.
"But we need torches and stuff," was the next complaint, but Jake had come prepared.
"I've got candles and matches, so let's go."
As Jake had all the answers and the older boys were urging, "Lets go! Let's go!"
the group, including the hesitant girls, followed Jake around the corer and along a
lane until they came to the old plantation house. It had once been the home of a
wealthy plantation owner but he had gone away and no one knew what had become
of him and his family. So, in time the town had crept up almost to the front door and
the once fine plantation house with a lovely garden was now just a dilapidated old
ruin that should have been pulled down years ago.
The group arrived at the boarded-up front door. Jake and the boys pulled away the
rotten boards and stood back. Jake lit the candles, handed them out and ordered,
"All the skeletons, the hollow 1. -1- the witches, anyone in a proper Halloween
costume come and stand with .. will call out the jumbies." Jake then pushed
open the old doors that creaked and groaned on their rusting hinges and led the way
across the threshold. All the inside walls had fallen in, the upper floor had been
completely eaten by termites and the floor was filthy, but Jake stepped over the
worst of it, looked back at his reluctant followers, turned ;in .nd with his arms
stretched wide, shouted: "You jumbies, I challenge you to :. i ... the dark pits of
hell and do battle with the forces of good. Show yourselves or forever lie doomed to
eternal hell and damnation."
Jak 11. .. .1. this was a pretty good challenge and as he knew that jumbies could
take ... .... they wished, he wondered what would appear. The first thing that
happened, much to every one's terror, was i. . of wind came roaring through
the door, banging it shut and blowing all ... II out. The girls screamed and


clung to each other whi' i.1 ..... 1 i i. ,,i 1,,. candle, but the matches
wouldn't strike and then I' II .. I I ..i i,, hand. "Someone open the
door!" Jake shouted. In the pitch black, some boys scrabbled to find the door and
pulled on it, but the door was jammed fast.
The darkness didn't last for long as it was broken by eerie green lights that began
to waver round the walls. Gradually the green lights grew stronger and started to
take form, first a leg, then a head, then an arm. The lights were struggling now,
groaning, trying to shape themselves into entire bodies. The children wanted to run
but they were paralyzed with fear. The bodies pulled grotesquely this way and that
until faces emerged and they were the faces of death with gleaming purple eyes and
mouths spitting fiery red blood. The jumbies were giving the CHILDREN the tricks
and noiselessly chuckled to themselves. The death figures at last came together with
sharp hipbones and vaporous, shrouded legs. They rested for a moment and then
stretched out their arms and from their bent fingers grew saber-sharp talons. The
vaporous legs pushed against the walls and the "dead" jumbies put back their heads
and howled. They clawed at the old beams high above, sharpening their claws like
leopards; they flew about the cavernous chamber, shrieking, dancing, and screaming
fit to wake the real dead. Then the nightmare jumbie ghouls turned their glittering
eyes upon the children and from their dark mouths, great fangs grew. A horrible
. 1' I i .. ii .1, I.ii I the chamber and it stung the nostrils of the children who
S inn ih, ur i I Liuldn't move a muscle. The jumbies were having fun and
were in no hurry to let the children go. They began a dance towards their victims,
clashing their fanged jaws together, menacing them with their curved claws, advance


They had been told to stay away

from the old plantation house ruin


ing and retreating, breathing out cold poisonous vapors as they screamed and
howled. Then the jumbie ghouls became tired of the game and they advanced now
with death glowing in their burning eyes. They stretched out their taloned arms, they
opened wide their fanged mouths, slobbering an acid saliva like mad sharks.
Micky, Mags' brother who had promised his mother to take good care of his little
sister, wasn't about to give in .11. ..I -i.,..1 I what could he do? Counter
magic might work, so he urged I ..- ..- ...... I perhaps it's a magic wand!"
But Mags was too small to try it, her eyes bulged and her fingers gripped the wand
and that was it. So Micky .1 1 his little sister and put his hand over hers and
shouted in her ear. "Mags, I i ip you wave the wand, DO IT!" Little Mags, not
used to I. 1 -1 I. .i raised her arm with his and from the glitter-covered
star, str *..' I- .. -i.... out in all directions. The stars entered the mouths
of the jumbie ghouls and they shrieked with agony as the sharp tips pierced their
raw throats. The stars spun in dizzying spirals, splitting the jumbie ghouls into
shuddering shards of dying light, their cries and sobs and moans ebbing and flow
ing as the jumbies fought to win the game. The -Ti- wand had worked and before
its light could fade away the children burst intc 1.1 rushed at the door, yanked it
open and ran as fast as their legs would carry them, up the shadowy lane, round
the corner and into the bright lights of the street lamps. Only then did they stop to
take a breath.
Of course no one would dare tell their parents that JUMBIE GHOULS had caught
them, because they had been told to stay away from the old plantation house ruin.
But it was a nightmare that would haunt them every time Halloween came around
and from that time on they were all very happy to dress up as skeletons or fairy
queens, take their bags and visit the neighbours, safely trick or treating.


'I Mi PRODL SPNSRE BYPTTSTICNT RH


DOLLY'S DEEP SECRETS

by Elaine Ollivierre


Scientists of the nineteenth century were fascinated with coral reefs. No one
was really sure how coral reefs were formed, especially the ringed atolls of the
Pacific. 1 ,,I -1, 1 .,- Charles Lyell put forward a theory that coral polyps were
growing .. .. I- ... around the rims of extinct submarine volcanoes. As the
coral grew to the surface, sand would accumulate on the top and form circular
islands with deep lagoons in the centre.
When Charles Darwin made his round-the world voyage on HMS Beagle in the
early part of the 1800s, he studied the reefs that he saw and came to a different
conclusion about how atolls were formed.
His theory was that yes, coral does continue to grow upwards from its base of
coral skeletal remains. However, Darwin suggested that, at the same time, land


masses that were surrounded by fringing coral reefs could gradually subside and
sink into the sea. As the land went downwards, the gap between the fringing reef
and the coastline became larger. The sea would appear to be rising up onto the
.;-1 Tib- fri;-ni r--f becomes a barrier reef. If the land mass were an island,
i i ..... I ,I I I approximately circular. Eventually, the land mass would
sink below the surface of the sea and all that would be left would be the coral reef
around it, a perfect atoll.
Mr. Lyell was not jealous of Darwin; in fact, he was so pleased that Darwin had
formulated this new and exciting theory that he jumped for joy when he heard of
it. Over a hundred years later Darwin's theory was proved right when geological
core samples taken when drilling in the Pacific islands showed the earth move
ments that he had suggested.




rn-;bi e rrF


--- ------------------------------- m













Compass Cruising Crossword


FROM ANCHORS TO WHISTLES, A BOAT CARRIES A LOT OF SAFETY GEAR.
SEE HOW MUCH YOU CAN FIND IN THIS WORD SEARCH PUZZLE
BY PAULINE DOLINSKI!


'CHAIN'


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R A E G G N I HS I F U N I P
ODE L T S I HWM R A D A R
T D U C T T A P E A C R N E E
CO F T I K LOO T E MT E N
E B R P T H G I L H S AL F I
L RADIO OR B S E H P I W L
FO S E E T P I E S T S E V
E H E L F S U N G L A S S E S
R C IA I G MO E E L K OO H
W N R Y N A P C O M PA S S O
UAE I KU S U N S C R E E N
R A T I O N S L E U GO R D R
T X T E F OP A D D L E A G O
ETAHRRORRIMO L H
MA B R I P E S MO K E F RO


ANCHOR
BATTERIES
BELL
BINOCULARS

COMPASS

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DUCT TAPE

EPIRB
EXTINGUISHER
FISHING GEAR
FLARES
FLASHLIGHT


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HOOK
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LINE

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PUMP


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RADIO
RAFT
RATIONS
REFLECTOR

SMOKE
SOS
SUNGLASSES
SUNSCREEN

TOOL KIT
VEST
WATER
WHISTLE


Word Search Puzzle solution on page 36

































OCTOBER 2009
Y ARIES (21 Mar 20 Apr)


S , II , ,, ,' ',

d TAURUS (21 Apr 21 May)
The adverse wind has turned and the course of romance
has now come upon fair weather and smooth seas. Enjoy
this aspect and all the good things it will bring to your
business or financial life.
GEMINI (22 May 21 Jun)
vr r'mnilnn '~nralthir 1,'ll bh In-ptred by a romantic
: .... i .... I the 15th. Enjoy!
CANCER 0 (22 Jun 23 Jul)
S .... .. t careful. Rain
I .. .. ... 7 creative effort
you are working on, so be great to your mate.
Q LEO (24 Jul 23 Aug)
This month starts out in the doldrums but favorable
breezes will pick up on the 15th. Use this newfound
energy to tackle those boat jobs you've been putting off.
H VIRGO (24 Aug 23 Sep)
Use this time to finalize those business or financial
plans you've been working on. Do it before the week of the
15th, when inspiration and communications will both sail
over the horizon, then take a break.
^ LIBRA (24 Sep 23 Oct)
,i,, ,ii I ,, '. .ie, as you will hear from and
i ..i i i i 1.1.. This new wind in your sails
S 1 Oour creativity.
TL SCORPIO (24 Oct 22 Nov)
Other than a few 1 l.t [ualls with crewmembers or
1r; -- i 1.- 11i I +-vo weeks, things will sail
i 1 .1ii .... i ,winds!
SSAGITTARIUS (23 Nov 21 Dec)

even more complicated, so keep your landfall in sight.
6 CAPRICORN (22 Dec 20 Jan)
Your love interest will continue to brighten your days
i i i I I I I i I II I I i i Ii I I

^ AQUARIUS (21 Jan 19 Feb)
...... be
ml E I IIllI iII Ii 1 Ii I I i II hi* I h II ii i IOVe
reluctant after the 17th. Just hang on the hook and wait
out the lulls.
= PISCES (20 Feb 20 Mar)
Passing squalls in your onboard love life will make sho
reside business dealings more difficult. Dont fret; the
weather will improve it always does.




Crossword Solution
ACROSS 31) GEAR 12) BOLLARD
2) DECKS 33) PORT 13) WELL
4) HAWSER 34) STOPPED 15) RAGS
7) PULL 36) STEM 17) LINE
9) LOW 37) BOW 20) STEEL
10) ANCHOR 38) FEET 21) ONTO
12) BELOW 23) CABLE
14) IRON DOWN 25) END
16) ALONE 1) SALT 27) STOPPER
18) BOLT 2) DOWN 28) FATHOM
19) SLINGS 3) CHAFE 30) ADDED
22) STAIN 4) HOOK 31) GALE
23) CHAIN 5) SIX 32) RAT
24) EASE 6) TURN 33) PUMP
26) TOP 8) LOCKER 35) TAFF
29) PLATES 11) RUB


OFF SEASON oe ".



No tourists will come today;
this time of year the islands
are for the locals,
with big rum bellies
sucking goat meat from teeth
after noonday meals.

Nobody here to buy the T-shirts
sailing the market-square wind,
straining to hear Miss Quashie
and her week-old gossip to Queenie,
as nothing happen since then,
so what to do?

Taxi drivers doze in afternoon heat,
lunch weighing heavy
under almond trees.


Restaurant workers meditate
on stillness,
their only customers shooed and flapped
with hand and cloth
with an energy inspired
by long-dead gods.

Fishermen and lobstermen stay home
and fix up old cars,
play the radio loud
and lime like young boys,
while under the sea
populations boom.

The beaches are quiet and bare,
(like bank accounts this time of year)
because locals only take sea-baths
early mornings, Sundays and holidays,
and too-besides, is only white people
who need a tan.

Only the rumshop keepers
have business on their stools,
and is rum and coke with ice -
save the beers for the tourists
and the tourist season
when they come back
and the locals have to
drink on the run.

Vanessa Simmons


parlumps marooned


FACT-OIDS


Firing a "broadside" originally
referred to a common insult,


--.rm.l.----'-














I THE CAR^^^nI~BBEANSKY:FREESHOWNHTLY!^0


THE SKY IN OCTOBER


by Scott Welty


The Planets in October 2009
MERCURY -Begins the month rising in the morning just before the sun and then
hiding in the west very near the sun by month's end.
VENUS -A bright morning star this month. Look at bright Venus rising in the early
morning hours.


Looking east on October 16th at 0515 local time to view a pretty grouping of Saturn,
Venus and the crescent moon

EARTH -Due to the worldwide recession, the Earth has been temporarily laid off
for the month. Should return in November.
MARS -Rising about 1:00AM in the constellation Gemini early in the month. Mars
then slowly slips to the east and enters Cancer late in the month, rising at about
midnight.
JUPITER -October 1st: Look south. Look up. See the moon? Thats bright Jupiter
to the right. October 26th: Same thing, but Jupiter has slipped to the west some.
Moon is just to the right of Jupiter now.
SATURN -Rising early in the morning October 1st and then becoming a "daytime"
planet for the rest of the month.
Sky Events This Month
October 8th -Mercury and Saturn rise side by side. Need a clear and low eastern
horizon. Look in the morning twilight maybe around 5:00 to 5:30AM.
October 4th -Full Moon
October 13th -Venus replaces Mercury as Saturn's companion again early in


the morning.
October 16th -Venus (the bright one) and Saturn are joined by the pretty crescent
moon just before sunrise. (See chart.)
October 18th -New Moon
October 20th through 22nd -Peak of the Orionids meteor shower (see below).
Orionids Meteor Shower
If you enjoyed the Perseids (and who didn't?) you have another chance this month
to see a meteor shower. The Orionids meteor shower peaks around the 20th
through 22nd this month. This one is due to the Earth passing through debris from


Looking east on October 21st at about 0100 hours to see the
Orionids Meteor Shower


good old Halley's comet. It's called the Orionid because the meteors seem to come
from a point (called the radiant) near the Orion constellation (see chart). Of course
you may start seeing meteors before Orion even rises, so just look east after dark
and keep looking!

The Andromeda Galaxy
As fall goes into winter it is a great time to get a peek at the
Andromeda galaxy. Pick a nice clear night with no moon and
then look north after about 9:00 or 10:00PM or later. See the
big 'W" in the sky? Thats Cassiopeia. Now look farther up
from there and you should notice a small smudge in the sky.
Thats the Andromeda galaxy (see chart). Take a look with
your binoculars and you may even see a little structure to it.
So, what exactly are you seeing? Historically this was a
hot topic. Some thought that these "nebulae" were gas
clouds and part of our own Milky Way galaxy. Others
thought they were "island universes" similar to our own
Milky Way galaxy and way far away. In 1925 Edwin
Hubble, having given up his career as a I. I I
showed that, indeed, Andromeda was a ... I I, I, ,I
stars and that they were extremely far away! We now know
that Andromeda is about 2.5 million light years away.
Yeah, that's really far. It also contains roughly 1 trillion
stars (almost as much as the US debt). You might be able
tog I I I gI i I 'I ... I,
Our I... -h I ,,I -I Ii .. i
Mag II
sailor... Ferdinand something-or-other. Sorry, you have to
be farther south than the Caribbean to see them.
To Contemplate While Having a Glass of Wine on Deck
Wow, 2.5 million light years. That's far, but what's far
their? What's the farthest we can see? This is the same as
asking, how far back in time can we see? The farther you
look the older the light. The universe is about 14.7 billion
years old so you shouldn't be able to find anything older or
farther away than that and we don't.

Scott Welty is the author of The Why Book of Sailing,
Burford Books, 2007.


Find the big W (or is that an M?) of Cassiopeia in the
northern sky. Look up from there you'll see the smudge' that
is the Andromeda Galaxy (Photo courtesy of NASA)















are supposed to possess is knowledge of the stars. I am apparently
V v.the exception that was meant to prove the rule. For me stars have
always been little bits of light in the night sky that I futilely wish upon. This was
a particular shortcoming when I began bluewater sailing because we only had
celestial navigation to get from one place to another.


Look money its nle tig tunny!

I remember taking a celestial navigation class in the 1970s. The instructor stood
in front of the class pointing to a large chart of the night sky, which showed all the
constellations and the key stars we were supposed to use for taking star sights. He
could have just as well been pointing to the stains on the carpet for all the good his
chart and explanation did me. I spent the entire four-week class trying to make a
gaggle of stars look like twins, a scorpion, or a lion. The truth was I could have made
anything I wanted out of those stars. Want a bunny? A seashell? A naked woman?
All right, the last took some doing but the class was really boring.
Instead, I sailed across the Pacific Ocean using the only things in the heavens I
could identify: the sun and the moon. And, even the moon I shot before dark so I
never did need to identify a "navigational star". It is a good thing, otherwise I would
probably have missed Asia.
I spent most of my night watches trying to find the Big Dipper, because if I did
then I could find the Little Dipper and the North Star -a trifecta give-away. Venus
didn't count since it always rose over our bow and until full dark it was like follow
ing a street lamp.
Night after night my star illiteracy haunted me. On any given night I found a hun
dred candidates for the Big Dipper. And later I found out the North Star is not actu
ally due north! They could have mentioned that little fact in my celestial navigation
class. Maybe they did while I was conjuring up the naked lady.
Now, many years and sea miles later, my wife and I are aboard our little cutter
serenely anchored in a lovely bay in Grenada. Above us every night is a plethora of
stars. Although we still have a sextant aboard, we navigate these days with GPS
plotters and computers. For us the stars have become what they have always actu
ally been for me -another pleasant after-dark pastime.
Each evening I sit in my cockpit and look up at the stars and identify the various
constellations for my wife. Since she has no idea, and little interest in, which stars
make which constellation and she also has nearly blind trust in my judgment (actu
ally it is blind trust since otherwise she would never have gone offshore with me in
the first place), I blithely point out various clusters of light and tell her the "name"
of that constellation.
Since I once heard that Orion's Belt is near the equator I always pick out two or
three stars in a straight line in the southern sky and tell her that they are Orion's
Belt. For the Big Dipper, well that depends on how close we are to finishing our
nightly single ration of rum and coke. If the b:. 11 .1 ... ......1 empty I just
point to the sky and announce firmly, "There, ., just getting
started I look at our compass, find the North Star (almost any star in the north
works great for this exercise) look off at an angle .. I i.. .. ... i",,,. 11.. looks like
a bucket. And we have the Big Dipper. When she :. I I. I .I, I i11 I tell her
it is not visible in this hemisphere.
Naturally, she knows that I am making all this up. But, she doesn't spoil it
because she knows how much I look forward to finding The Naked Lady. And, after
all, she likes The Bunny.


l-o

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00 I.


REFLECTIONS ON MT. PELEE'S

1902 VOLCANIC ERUPTION


Part One: The Beginning


The Day the World Ended, by Gordon Thomas and
Max Morgan Witts, Scarborough House Publishers,
1991. 306 pages. ISBN 978-0812885101
The Last Days of St. Pierre, by Ernest Zebrowski,
Rutgers University Press, 2002. 304 pages. ISBN 978
0813530413
Many years ago, I was delighted to buy a second
hand copy of The Day the World Ended by Gordon
Thomas and Max Morgan Witts. In those days it was
hard to find a good account in English of the massive
eruption of Mt. Pelee on May 8th, 1902, that
destroyed the city of St. Pierre on the island of
Martinique. Nowadays, with Amazon.com, it is much
easier to find books, and since I had given away my
copy, I bought another, and along with it Ernest
Zebrowski's The Last Days of St. Pierre. Together they
cost less than a modern paperback, and I found them
far more entertaining.
Both books read like novels. For fast-paced excite
ment, you cannot beat The Day the World Ended,
which is a day-by-day account, starting on the 2nd of
May 1902, and ending on the 8th, that weaves into
this .... .1.. .... ....1 -1 -1 .ies. Itw as
writt ..... I .. . ... 11 ,II ... i. .. when the
authors could still find a few people close to those
times to interview. Zebrowski's book was written in
2002, and is well researched, with the author spend
ing time in St. Pierre, but is based more on historical
documents. It gives a wider perspective, I ..i.... ,i.
eruptions that happened later that year a.. ii -
in fascinating detail the voyage of George Kennan, an
American who visited Martinique shortly after the
eruption and couldn't wait to climb up and peer into
the crater of the very active volcano (it was making
load roaring sounds), as a terrified populace was still
fleeing the area. He also gives more details on the
almost simultaneous eruption of St. Vincent's
Soufriere. Both books are based on history, but writ
ten to be popular, including invented dialogue and
thoughts of their main characters.
About 30,000 people died during the eruption,
around a sixth of the total population of Martinique at
that time. When you think about this history, you have
to start by imagining how St. Pierre was at the turn of
the last century, not as it is now. Agriculture in the
richly verdant north end of Martinique had, for many
years, been the economic driving force of the island. It
had spawned over a dozen millionaire estate owners.
By 1902, agriculture's profitability was declining,
though it was still hugely successful, especially in the
production and shipment of rum. St. Pierre was the
largest city in Martinique and one of the largest in the
Caribbean. The permanent population was around
26,000 with many more temporary residents coming
in to work. By comparison, Fort-de-France, the capi
tal, had a population of about 17,000. Even Precheur,
a small town to the north of St. Pierre, had a popular
tion in those days of more than 5,000, about the cur


Above: On April28th, 1902, rivers radiating from Mt.
Pelee overflowed their banks, despite a complete
lack of rain. The sleeping volcano had begun to stir

Right: Zebrowski's book gives a wide perspective
on the event
rent population of St. Pierre today. Many more people
lived in estates and villages surrounding St. Pierre
than do today.
St. Pierre, a busy, alive, and extremely attractive
city, with its theater and grand parties, had been
called the "Paris of the West Indies". The main artery
for this city was the waterfront; nearly everything and
everyone came and went by boat. The road to Fort de
France was narrow and in poor condition. The same
was true of the upper road through the mountains.
The main and fastest connection was the regular ferry
that ran between Fort-de-France and St. Pierre. By the
same token, rum and agricultural products were
exported, and consumer goods imported, directly by
ship. When people went on vacation or business to
France, they sailed on these same ships.
As May approached there were fears that the volcano
was stirring, but upcoming elections had become espe


cially important to the establishment, as black politi
cia n s i, ,,11 , i . ii, .I .. i .,,, i,
a plar '.' .. ... ... i i 1 ,I . h
member of the Radical Party, was already the elected
senator representing Martinique in France. He was the
first black man to hold this post. The upcoming elec
tion was for the French Chamber of Deputies. The first
round in a three-way race had resulted in a narrow
win for Fernand Clerk. Clerk, a member of the
Progressive Party, had been selected because in some
ways he was very liberal for the times, supporting
many of the same things as Amadee Knight. It was
thought this would give him a chance against the
Radical Party. He was a rich white plantation owner,
very much a proper family man and church member,
who was aghast at the prostitution, sailors' bars and
many other profitable ventures in St. Pierre, and
wanted to clean them up. He was much too strait-
laced for many of his peers. But he was supported by
the establishment, which knew he would be easier to
deal with than Louis Percin, a radical socialist who
was the runner-up. Josei 1 I ,. -.. lie Socialist
Workers candidate, had: i 11 I -1 votes and
dropped out. A run-off between the two main contend
ers was slated for Sunday, May 11th.
A man up to his neck in politics, who would prove
quite influential over the course of this history, was
Andreus Hurard, owner, editor and publisher of Les




THE LAST DAYS





IC DISASTER
CLAlIMED---
YrniEVV wEhlsam LIVES


RuLliSnn. zumonuu.

Colonies, the main newspaper. Hurard was determined
that Fernand Clerk should win (although he was not
overly fond of him personally), and made it his mission
to try to stop the volcano's threat from interfering with
the election.
-Continued on next page




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Continuedfrom previous page
The man on whose shoulders the responsibility for
the population lay was the Governor, Louis Mouttet.
Mouttet was a self-made man who had married well, a
career civil servant who had done his time in less
desirable locations and who ; .1 1- Martinique as
the place he would like to -1 i the rest of his
career. He had only arrived five months before the
eruption and had a mixed reception. Amadee Knight
snubbed him, and considered him of no importance.
He found Fernand Clerk rather stiff, and was some
what put off by his old-money upper class status. He
got on well with Andreus Hurard, who was much more
relaxed and had insight into the politics and power of
the colony. Had this personal chemistry between the
main players been different, it is possible things might
have turned out better.

This photo, published in Life magazine, shows busy
St. Pierre just before the 1902 eruption


The Volcano Comes to Life
The year 1902 was not the first time in human
memory Mt. Pelee had erupted. There had been a
minor eruption in 1851; elderly inhabitants could
remember it well. Ash covered some areas of vegeta
tion and then the volcano became dormant again.
I -ii ... I , .i I i .in as early as May
S I i I -- . i... i at the Lycee in St.
Pierre, and the most scientifically educated man on
the island, had been watching it through his telescope,
recording wisps of smoke.
ByApril 2nd, 1902, Mt. Pelee started belching clouds
of steam and smoke, and the surrounding villages
were infested with snakes, rodents, and beetles that
were driven out of their mountainside habitat. A
strong smell of sulfur became pervasive. On April
22nd, Landes noted some small earthquakes on his
seismoscope, and the main undersea cable line to
Guadeloupe broke. On April 23rd, there was a sizeable
eruption, with tremors felt throughout the north end
of the island, and when people awoke on April 24th, a
layer of white ash covered the landscape.
In today's world this would have been plenty of
warning to initiate an evacuation. However, in 1902,


little was known about volcanoes. Those in Iceland
and the Pacific, which had been the most studied,
erupted in a fairly controlled manner, sending out a
slow-moving stream of red-hot lava, which was fairly
easily avoided. Although explosive pyroclastic flows of
the kind we have in the Caribbean had occurred
within human history, they had not been well record
ed, studied, or even named. So, at this time, the popu
lation was alarmed, but not yet sure how much of a
threat there was. After all, 50 years earlier, the volcano
had obligingly gone back to sleep; they hoped this
would happen again soon.
And for a while, things seemed to quiet down, until
April 28th, when rivers started overflowing their
banks, despite a complete lack of rain. On April 30th,
Landes noted several more earthquakes and there
were monstrous flash floods on the river Roxelane and


Riviere des Peres, so sudden and severe that several
washerwomen were swept away and drowned. But the
volcano was still quiet and people hoped that these
events had released its pressure and marked the end
of the activity.
May 1st started fine and clear, then there was an
eruption, followed by a fall of dust, and all was
quiet again.
On May 2nd there was an eruption accompanied by
heavy rain. Zebrowski reports that ash fell so thickly
in Precheur that the townspeople had to light lamps to
see. Thomas and Witts relate that on this day
Laveniere, in his estate four miles south of St. Pierre,
was swept away in a violent river overflow character
ized by a lot of volcanic mud.
The volcano erupted with even more force on May
3rd, with violent earth tremors and bright lightning.
The village of Morne Rouge was ankle deep in mud and
the priest, Father Mary, had his flock in the church
praying. The ashfall reached Fort-de-France and,
according to Zebrowski, Mouttet took the regular ferry
to St. Pierre and then chartered a small boat to visit
Precheur. He found some houses with roofs collapsing
under the weight of ash, and a panicked population.


ToFrom ToFnrom Tofaram
BARBADOS GRENADA ST. VINCENT T Pkil\ TL Ji. ITIANDLING SERVICES
-* EQUIA BEQIIIA NMUIsTI L Privae Je Chtrfers aFaiable
*CANOUAN *CANOUAN *CANOUAN
-CARRIACOUI UNION UNION etelndfrom adiprlmis within lhe
. MYSTIQUE *CARRIACOU CI .AIRitF NA CltTII %IFRItf I


He did his best to reassure them, promising that, if
things got worse, he would evacuate them. He sent a
telegram to the Colonial ministry in Paris, alerting
them to the eruption. Many people living in outlying
areas under the volcano abandoned their houses and
fled to St. Pierre, swelling the city's population.
At this point, Fernand Clerk started his efforts to
persuade people that they should evacuate St. Pierre,
that it was crazy to stay. Just after noon on May 3rd
he assembled 12 of the town's most influential people
and put his case to them. They thought he was mad.
Evacuation was insane. How could it be done? Where
would people go? Think of the interruption to com-
merce. In any case, said the detractors, there were
enough valleys between the crater and St. Pierre that
there was no way for any lava to reach the town.
Amadee Knight, not wanting to side with his politi
cal opponent, went around telling people that the
volcano would only quiet down when they voted the
white progressive party out of power. That sounds
nuts, but when I sat for a week in St. Vincent watch
ing the volcano erupt in 1979, I remember hearing
one of the clergy telling people on a radio program
that God sent the eruption because they had not been
attending church often enough, so people do say
these things.
Meanwhile Les Colonies published an upbeat special
edition written by Hurard, which started, "Yesterday
the people of St. Pierre were treated tc -li-
spectacle in the majesty of the smoking i i
let it be known that he thought there was no risk to
people in the town, and that they should welcome
refugees from the hills. He finished by saying that his
reporters had to postpone a planned trip to the crater,
but would reschedule as soon as possible.
On Sunday, May 4th, people in St. Pierre observed
hundreds of dead birds. The volcano had been rum-
bling all night, and ash reached Fort-de-France.
Governor Mouttet knew he would have to somehow
take the situation in hand. Evacuating St. Pierre
would be almost impossible. There were not enough
boats to take everyone away, and the road would not
take sustained heavy carriage traffic. The healthy
could walk out, but they would have to leave their pos
sessions behind where they would be subject to loot
ing, and there was no practical way to move the infirm.
Fort-de-France, with its population of 17,000, could
not accommodate 30,000 refugees. As a first step,
Mouttet decided to organize a commission of experts to
assess the risk. The committee was quite sanely put
S it included Professor Landes and two other
S the chief artillery officer who could figure
out how far rocks could be thrown, and the head phar
macist who might know of toxic risks. There was only
one problem; none of them really knew anything about
volcanoes. At that time, no one did.
In St. Pierre's cathedral that Sunday morning, the
acting head of the Catholic Church, Monseigneur
Gabriel Parel (the bishop was on a retreat in France),
announced to the public that the commission was on
its way, and that if they had e" .... i ..11. ... God, God
would keep them safe. Clerk n I ..' '. I ,' i discour
aged in his attempt to persuade the populace to evacu
ate -they seemed to have gone mad and refused to
realize the danger. He had hoped, having failed to rally
the civic leaders, that the Church might help, but to
no avail. He decided to get out of St. Pierre with his
family and go to his estate in Parnasse. However, at
his home in St. Pierre he was met by several friends
who were fleeing the volcano and begged to stay with
him. He decided to stay for the time being.
The influx of refugees was also causing problems
with robberies and general unrest. The telegraph cable
to Dominica broke.

Next month, Part Two: Disaster After Disaster





Read in Next Month's

Compass:


SailinL Direc ti-Hon-
Europe to Lesser Antilles


A Walk Around Trinidad's
San Fernando


Flying Fish Attack!


...and more!



























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i 1 I;`j1


Onboard Ibes


Pasta


with


Panache by Ross Mis


Even though it is now disputed whether or not Marco Polo introduced pasta to Italy from China, the Italians are
certainly the undisputed greatest consumers of these fancy carbohydrates. ili, ,, ., ,, i -J of various kinds are
eaten in many different countries of the world, Italy has several hundred 1.11' '" I .-i. shapes, sizes, thick
nesses and colours.
The most popular and well known are undoubtedly macaroni ,, i i There are also dozens of fancy pas
tas in the shape of seashells (conchiglie), bows (farfalle) corksc. t I iji and various tubes and spirals. The
word pasta means paste in Italian and refers to the dough made with durum wheat flour or semolina and either
water or milk. Sometimes eggs are used. Some pastas, such as ravioli and tortellini, have fillings. Cannelloni and
rigatoni tubes have open ends and are filled with savory stuffings of various kinds.
Fresh pasta requires less cooking time and is perih-l- r-V;; in. refrigeration if stored before being cooked.
Dried pasta of all types can be kept unrefrigerated :, I i 1 1 I dry and in a sealed container. Pasta is the
perfect carbohydrate to have on board.
P-ti -,-tir .;-1 --rnivores alike can enjoy pasta depending on the sauces i1ii ...... i Ti. I ...i i
S11...... i .. i. . is to use a light sauce on delicate, light pasta such a- . I i .. i .
, ,, I .-I Thick heavy meat sauces can be used successfully o,, i , i 1 ,


Fresh herbs such as oregano, basil, thyme and rosemary a . ... ... I I, ,, I.he blandness of pasta. These
ca: 1 ... ., . 1 .. 1.i ...i the dough itself or used as p i i 111
I -.i i i -1 ., I .-1 i ,.i, canbe madeby handwith 2 .i ,i I II ..... ..- Durum flour is best as it has
a higher gluten content than regular flour. The flour should be sifted onto a clean surface and formed into a small
pile. Make a well or indentation in the flour and add the three eggs. Gradually incorporate the eggs into the flour
using your fingers. Here's where the hard work happens -knead the dough for about 10 minutes until it is
smooth and elastic. Cover the dough and let both it and you rest for about 20 minutes. This is a great time to have
a glass of your favorite red wine or a cold beer.
The dough can then be rolled into the desired thickness, about 1/8 inch thick, on a floured surface with a roll
ing pin. Cut into strips for noodles or sheets for lasagna.
When confined to a wharf or marina for a week or two, I'll sometimes make pasta to relieve the boredom. Every
clothes hanger aboard is used to hang strips of fresh pasta for drying. It's after a session like this that a fettuc
cini feast is the natural choice for supper.
Cooking fresh pasta is a breeze. Bring a large pot of fresh water to the boil on your cook top. Should your water
source be somewhat alkaline or hard, as can be found in some locations, a small amount of lemon juice put into
the water will improve cooking. Add noodles to 1. i .1.... iter and a teaspoon or two of cooking oil. The addition
of oil has two effects. Firstly it eases the action I 11. I I -. water and secondly adds a light coating of oil to each
piece of pasta as they are lifted through it. This will also reduce the chance of the pasta sticking together.
Salt the water slightly and stir pasta as it boils. Don't cover the pot with a lid as it will surely boil over. Cook
pasta al dente, meaning that you stop the cooking while the noodles are still slightly chewy in the center. With
fresh pasta, this usually takes only two or three minutes. Drain well.
Have your favorite sauce ready, or simply toss freshly drained hot noodles with a good olive oil, fresh herbs if
available, diced tomatoes and salt and pepper. Now that's called good.
Ciao!


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THE SPICE LOCKER BY SHIRLEY HALL


W ith a warm, fresh flavor and smell, basil is one of the world's most widely
grown and used herbs. It is one plant that can easily survive growing in a
pot in your cockpit or galley. I use it especially when I experiment with
Italian and Asian recipes.
This herb is related to mint and there are more than 60 varieties with various
tastes and colors, with names like sweet, mammoth, dark opal, cinnamon and lico
rice. The leaves used in cooking can be green, reddish, or purple.
The name basil is from the ancient Greek word meaning royal; its medicinal uses
made the herb noble. Ancient Egyptians used basil as an ingredient for -r r--in.
mummies. East Indians respect basil as a sign of generosity, and Italians 1 i i .1
as a symbol of love.
Basil rapidly loses its flavor when picked and is not well preserved by drying or
: ,. , I I -.11 i, i unce of fresh basil leaves equals one Cup of chopped
:. -. -i. dried for fresh, triple the amount.) It is a great addi
I, ,, I .11 .i shore. It is easily grown in pots, and if placed near a
window or hatch it will deter flies and mosquitoes. Basil needs loose soil and occa
sional water. It is very easy to grow from seed. Once it has about eight leaves, liter
ally pinch off the top of the i... I . .. ..... I I -... This will stunt
the plant's upward growth ... I .1 1 .. I 1. .aching will also
keep the plant alive longer . .1 ...





BASIL -


THE ROYAL HERB



Basil has very few calories and is a good source of vitamins A, C and K, magnesium
and potassium. This herb improves bl( i ..... .. I ..Ii,,,,. I cholesterol,
while reducing the chance of irregular b 11 .1 I -. .1 .11 I the pain of
a mouth ulcer and basil tea will soothe sore gums. Basil tea is also a soothing rem-
edy for arthritis or rheumatism.
Fresh basil is a requirement for most chefs, especially in Italian cuisine. Its goes
well with tomatoes, onions, garlic .n-1 -r- .;- which are the basic Italian season
ings. It is also a great addition to -.. I. .... i i .11. ggplant, cab
bage or peppers. To get the best flavor from bas. I I 11, I, -1, -; towards the
end of cooking.
For a good, easy sauce for fish just mix minced basil leaves with mayonnaise.
Basic Pesto
1/3 Cup fresh basil leaves
1/2 Cup olive oil
2 cloves of garlic, pounded
1/2 Cup pine nuts
3/4 Cup grated Parmesan cheese
pinch salt
(One leaf of chadon bene can be added to vary taste)
Put basil leaves in blender and chop, while gradually adding oil and garlic. Add
pine nuts slowly and continue processing until everything is a thick cream. Add
cheese and salt and mix. Use it as a pasta topping with about two tablespoons of
pesto per person.
Pesto can be made in volume and frozen, but in that case don't add the cheese
until you are ready to prepare a meal.
Herbed Egg-and-Veggie Pie
1 large onion chopped fine
2 cloves garlic, minced .
3 Cups thinly sliced cabbage
1/2 pound mushrooms, sliced
1 Cup chopped basil leaves
1/2 teaspoon marjoram
1/2 teaspoon tarragon
1/4 Cup cream cheese, softened
pre-made pie crusts (one top and one bottom)
4har 1] 1 1 *. sliced
1/2 t .-i .. i. dill, chopped
salt and spice to taste
1 egg, beaten
Coat a large frying pan with oil and saute onions and garlic. Add cabbage and
mushrooms and simmer for about 20 minutes. Stir in basil, marjoram and tarragon.
Allow mixture to cool.
Spread the softened cream cheese in bottom of piecrust and arrange a layer of
sliced hard-boiled eggs over the cheese. Cover with cooled cabbage, onion, and
mushrooms. Sprinkle with dill and cover with second piecrust. Make cuts in the top
crust to let steam escape, and brush with beaten egg. Bake at 350F for half an hour.
Serve when cool.
Tremendous Tomatoes
6 medium to large fresh tomatoes
1 avocado
1/2 Cup fresh basil leaves, chopped fine (or 2 Tablespoons dried basil)
1 medium onion, chopped fine
1 Cup grated cheddar cheese
1/4 teaspoon oregano
Halve tomatoes and place cut side up in a baking dish. They should fit fairly
snugly. Peel avocado, remove seed and chop flesh. Cover tomatoes with mixture of
avocado, basil, onion and cheese. Sprinkle with oregano and broil in oven or on
barbecue grill (covered) for five minutes. Serve hot.


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GRND WI..



Pat -- Rpis s.r
Oultboa r~dITQQ l Engne 2HP-2E50H l


Dear Compass,
Regarding the excellent article about Morris Nicholson
by Julie I .... 1. ,... ... of Compass, I'd like to
share a ,., I .i, ,i.11 ... i e.
I brokered the insurance on Eleuthera, the yacht
Morris skippered in the Caribbean for owner Gus
Koven, for about 20 years. Then Morris said to me one
day, "Don, I am sorry but I am afraid you are going to
lose the insurance. Eleuthera is going to be sold as Mr.
Koven is getting too old to sail her."
A week later I was at the New York Yacht Club hav
ing lunch with my publisher, Eric Swenson, when Mr.
Koven came over to our table and said, "I am sorry,
Don, but you will probably be losing the insurance on
Eleuthera We -r bl-in- to sell her because Morris is
getting to old .I '.
Gus and Morris were an owner and skipper who had
been together for a lifetime, something that so seldom
happens in the yachting world.
D.M. Street Jr.
lolaire

Dear Compass,
In the September issue of Compass there was a truly
m-n-i-n article, "r'r-.-t-r-i from a Crew's Point of
I'. Arlene ',' I.. I i[ere was an article by a
crewmember who enjoyed the chartering experience. I
was completely startled. I had never before read an
article where the crew did anything but bitch and
berate the clients. I have always wondered why, if a
person feels the clients are such bores, does he or she
not find other work. I suspect that Arlene's clients
returned home happy and would recommend her boat
to friends.
Which brings me to another wonder: why do some
yachts for charter not have water makers, therefore
needing "water police"? I have read several times in
articles about the clients using sooo much water. I am
sure most clients are not "hardcore sailors" but peo
ple on vacation who enjoy sailing in a beautiful set
ting. I can just imagine the word-of-mouth advertise
ing from a customer who returns home complaining
about not being able to wash his undergarments but
once a week.
On water makers I can offer a few suggestions that
may help. I use mine a lot, and my experience may help
someone. First, the heart of any water maker is the
pump, not the membrane. Membranes normally go out
slowly and there should be at least two so if there is a
sudden failure the good product water can be routed to
the tank. This is usually a very easy procedure.
When evaluating a pump, go for the most titanium
possible. Just as you don't use 304 stainless on the
deck but use 316 or 316L, if possible, don't use stain
less in the pump. I use a Wanner diaphragm pump
with titanium valve seats and springs turning at 1,200
rpm. I prefer direct drive rather than belt. I have had
two operate in excess of 35,000 hours without failure.
Look for a flexible coupling and not a direct sleeve from
pump to motor, as these tend to freeze together. I find
Cat pumps may be driven like this when in a direct
drive application. I try to follow most manufacturers'
recommendation of flushing the machine with product
water (never use shore water as it may contain chlo
rine) if laying it up for more than a week.
All the best,
George Townsend
F/V Lovely Lisa

Dear Compass,
I'm compelled to respond to the letter by Judi Lebeau
in the September edition. Like her, I -nij r- -lin th-
letters in the Compass with all their I-' 1 '"I I "
view. I must protest, however, when she refers to
cruisers who "sail into local waters, enjoy all that is
there (for free), maybe buy a T-shirt and then sail
away". Maybe there are a few such -ri=in:. cheap
skates, but the famous ECLAC study i _.**. proves
that yacht visitors as a rule spend plenty in the islands


they visit. Even in Ms. Lebeau's St. Vincent, where
spending levels are lower than in places such as the
BVI or Trinidad (mainly due to lack of big-ticket
spending opportunities on St. Vincent, I might add,
not to cruisers' cheapness), sailing people outspend
cruise ship tourists. She seems to feel that cruisers
should merely be "tolerated" by locals, yet it is cruise
ship passengers, in fact, who enjoy a lot for free and
maybe buy a T-shirt, if they even go ashore at all.
A recent UPI news report says, "Larger numbers of
tourists [are] confined to the ever larger cruise ships
that bring them to the Caribbean... Operators of cruise
liners are seeing new opportunities in offering well
heeled customers self-contained floating cities... In
most cases passengers are warned they [go ashore] at
their own risk, and many don't, industry sources
said... the ships themselves are direct competition for
the Caribbean destinations at which they will call."
In contrast, my partner and I are not wild spenders,
but on our last trip ashore we bought '; ; post
age stamps, gas for the outboard, I "' I the
stove, an hour of internet time and a new socket
wrench set, and we also had lunch at a restaurant and
used a taxi. Yachts are not direct competition for
Caribbean destinations, they are a boon for them.
Perhaps Ms. Lebeau is a landlubber and has con
fused cruise ship passengers with yacht visitors. But
she and others in St. Vincent who really believe that
cruisers are freeloading bums should realize that,
according to the ECLAC study, yacht visitor expendi
ture contributes between US$8 and US$10 million
annually in direct revenue to your country's local
economy. Tolerate that.
John Duran
S/V Mighty Mouse

Dear Compass,
We really shouldn't tell anybody. We spent the sum
mer hurricane season (so far this year, a non-hurri
cane season) mainly in Venezuela's offshore islands. It
was cruising heaven. We were surprised how few other
cruisers, mostly French, we encountered. We sailed
from Grenada to Los Testigos, Margarita (we much
preferred Juangriego to Porlamar), Blanquilla, Tortuga,
Los Roques, Las Aves and then Bonaire. Our mid-size
catamaran was the perfect vehicle. Doyle's guide was
very helpful. A water maker is a must. Be well provi
sioned. Don't forget good snorkel gear because you'll
spend lots of time in the water.
Please sign us,
Cat 'Out of the Bag'

Dear Compass Readers,
We want to hear from YOU!
Please include your name, boat name or shoreside
address, and a way we can contact you (preferably by
e-mail) ifclarification is required.
We do not publish individual consumer complaints or
individual regatta results complaints. (Kudos are okay!)
We do not publish anonymous letters; however, your
name may be withheld from print at your request.
Letters may be edited for length, clarity and fair play.
Send your letters to:
sally@caribbeancompass.com
or
Compass Publishing Ltd.
Readers' Forum
Box 175BQ
Bequia
St. Vincent & the Grenadines
























a-a
i --



GalP


fi





















Letter of



the Month


Dear Compass,
I do not share the Caribbean Compass's enthusiasm for the IGY move to appoint
an ambassador to represent yachting in the Southern Caribbean. It is counterpro
ductive and has the potential to cause serious damage to yachting as we know it.
We have already seen what happens when foreign-based marina developers move
into the Caribbean. The- I i I . .... i. 1 e used their vast resources and
influence to lobby and i i ...... .... I .1 governments to restrict or ban
anchoring in the waters near their marinas ^i I ,,, Grenada;
Marigot Bay, St. Lucia; and in the lagoon at the i* .. i I ...... The devel
opers of the Isle de Sol marina (now operated by IGY) in St. Maarten were respon
sible for the widening of the bridge into Simpson Bay Lagoon and the subsequent
fees for anchoring that are used to pay for the bridge widening. (Ironically, the
president of the St. Maarten trade association who is now critical of the fees
[Compass July, 2009] was very much in favor of them initially when he was the
project manager of the development. Interestingly, he is now an employee of IGY and
was instrumental in the developments in Rodney Bay.)
And, now, IGY is suggesting that they be in charge of determining what is best for
yachting in the Caribbean.
The naming of Cuthbert Didier as their ambassador should raise some concerns.
In the interview in the August issue of Compass, Mr. Didier spoke of the ECLAC
study of 2001* for which he served as a consultant and did several "ground breaking
studies". Mr. Didier was only one of many who worked on the ECLAC study; it was
a collaborative effort on the part of many people from all of the islands 1, 1 i
tive was to develop a sustainable yachting sector that satisfies the : i- I 1I,
customer while providing maximum benefits to the local populations.
Overall, the report that resulted from the study was a good start as a blueprint
on what needs to be done to enhance yachting. A number of items in the report
could be categorized as "strategic", including the creation of a region-wide associa
tion to represent yachting, along with the need to collect more data on yachting
and the yachting tourist, and the need to raise the public's awareness of the ben
efits of yachting.
The ECLAC study recommended the creation of a regional private-sector marine
trade association and the formation of marine trade associations on the islands
where they did not already exist, with the implied mandate to implement further the
findings within. As a result, additional island trade associations were formed, and
the region-wide Caribbean Marine Association (CMA) was created. In St. Lucia, the
Marine Industries Association of St. Lucia of St. Lucia (MIASL) includes most of the
marine businesses of the island. However, Mr. Didier and his employer, IGY, have
yet to join the organization.
Why is this? Perhaps Mr. Didier does not agree with the current leadership of
MIASL and feels that he is better equipped to address and solve the yachting issues
in the Caribbean than is MIASL? Or, is it because he does not support the ECLAC
recommendations?
It makes sense to this writer that the problems and issues facing yachting would
be better solved by a united effort: i. 11 .... .... a maverick or maverick orga
nization promoting their own persc... ...I -1- I* is a for-profit concern respond
sible to their investors, and Mr. Didier is an employee of IGY. I am sure that Mr.
Didier is a fine man, but how can the yachting community trust that he will be act
ing in their best interests when he is receiving a paycheck from IGY?
Unfortunately, after all the publicity that accompanied the release of the ECLAC
report in 2004, it seems to have i ,, I I ..... 1 the CMA has pursued other
agendas. It would be in the best:..1 - I 1I,,,. for CMA to go back to basics,
review and, where necessary, update the initial findings, and develop a prioritized
plan to implement the ECLAC recommendations. Five years have already passed and
it is time to start.
It is difficult enough for the trade associations to get approval and support for their
initiatives without having a splinter organization with its many resources working
from -r-..nt- -ln- Tt it time for IGY Rodney Bay to join MIASL and CMA. For
the I ,.... .. "II 1,,,. the Caribbean and to realize the objective of the ECLAC
stucl ,* .i, ,,I I .1 ., I their plan to have their own ambassador in the
Caribbean and work within the established structure to enhance the yachting expe
rience for all and to maximum benefits to the people of the islands.
I am not interested in having IGY with its own profit-oriented objectives speak for
my interests. I believe that it would be much better to have an organization that is
comprised of a team representing the interests of all the Eastern Caribbean and
members of the organization that is representing yachting interests in the Caribbean
(i.e., the CMA or the local island trade associations) as our yachting advocate. The
Caribbean Marine Association was created for that purpose.
John Pompa
S/V Second Millennium
Boston, Massachusetts

The ECLAC report "Yachting in the Eastern Caribbean" was published in January
2004 and can be found by -I-;n: Google search using the keywords: ECLAC
Yachting "A Regional Overviev I I studies for individual islands can be found
by using the keywords ECLAC "The Yachting Sector" and an island's name.


L Yacht Srok


FIAQRntlfim


h


OCEANIS 393 2001
56 HP Yanmar Good condition
Martinique 95 000 US$

Amel 54 2007
Amel Super Maramu 2001
Sun Odyssey 40 2002
Beneteau Oceanis 461 1993
Hallberg-Rassy HR 38 (1979)

Eluthera 60 2003
Belize 43 2001
Lagoon 380 2004
Athena 38 1996

/ .


PRIVILEGE 12 M- 1994
n 2 30 hp Volvo Good condition
St Martin 99 000
MONOHULLS
St Martin 699 000
Martinique 320 000
St Martin 89 500
Martinique 130 000 US$
St Martin 79 000
CATAMARANS
Martinique 530 000
Martinique 180 000
Martinique 149 000
Martinique 119 000


1


UPt hI I. it lMIN1~LmrwiEim wrn


MULTIHULL&S 40 BneleauOcear.lk4o',l4- Oneri 89K(
82'Dufour Nauttech'95, 10 cab/10 hd 995K 4) Br, -i r.- ,, t. ,,% C 1 i I r, 1i,-,, J 1 39K
4r7 ilege465 1999cab/4 head 339K 40 J Boal 11l2') 97 .cabll rd 195KM
46'FPBahia 03/01, 2 Available 299K 4 b6r.-u ,,: ,4.. ,sa ,.nd 99K
42Fount.PajotVenezia99,Spacious 220K 41) EIeMaiir.eCiFarei '182 Wc.rldOC 55K
42 Lagoon 20"08Newlanrmars 475K .~0 rT..,i I il ,age Hi ; 11r-, 89K
i' M.,. ,. ..hr i llan;) F,.r 179K 39 E teau rd !93 2005 WeI-PIeM 125K
SAIL 38 Beneteau M38'91;GreatCruiser 58K
54'HylasDeckSalon.'O0,LuxuryCrsr 645K 38 Hllibetg-R ssy 3828' 7Slor 125K
51'Morgan/CSYCustoml'8Loaded 159K lu M.io.dr t'r_- i P...: R3JuJ:ijr. 99K
LI A.jymr.um '. n C.- tli[ (i ,rr. -? 379K 36 Benmeau 361. 0.2.:abi I hd 85K
47'Sparkmen Sephens Design 82 199i si A..'r. ~ r Ir .i.iI.. .Lr. 9 95K
Cl6 M. 3r..1 -, A..IhIilti- i`. 79K 35'O'Day1987;Great CaribbeanCrsr. 29K
45 Wauqulez MS45. 90 Pilolhouse 169K 33' Bavara'05; Great Condition I Price 69K
1 : .-,en, s-. ,r. Ceri: 1 .-.-, 139K
44 Freedom 4482.Beautfull l Inenor 104K POWER
I HU,-u..I. ir 4- Ir. AnI.4lua Grl P s, 99K .' .!.:hn!'n M.lt .Ir r. l-r il l.9Ir. 375K
43 Young Sun 84 2 Available Stant 70K 52 Jeleron lrawler'89. 4 cab 4 hd 149K
J1 -3nFrr,., 2.- Ii.drn 'ulre 99K J, Ir.- r.1 .h.,!rt -,n u 2h1 325K
42 Halberq.Ra.y HR-42E 64 Refil 160K 48 Talqun Trader 485 3j Beaulful 309K
A4 It..r.NT,,Tij: ki (,'.r 75K a'....i 1r ..r -I i C"; ,B7iu,.i I1 99K
42'lslandPacket420. 1 Immaculate 320K 30 Bayiner 305 06 Onhy 8hrs 89K
41Sceptre'85PilothouseWorldCrsr. 139K G i.., I,0r '.. ',2. .2 -,IIh 1 OHP 69K
40'En vour'81.1mmaculate. Loaded 129Kw ww. bviyachtsale s. com





ST. THOMAS YACHT SALES
Compass Point Marina, 6300 Est. Frydenhoj, Suite 28,
St. Thomas, U.S.V.I. 00802


Tel: (340) 779-1660
Fax: (340) 779-2779
yachts@Qslands.vi


Summer Place 44' 1985
Beneteau Idylle, Great Cruiser,
AP, AC, Genset $86,000


La Creole 50' 1978 Gulfstar
Ketch. Well maintained
classic, 3 strms, $145,000


Sail
36' 1980 Albin Stratus, Cruiser or 6 pack charter vessel
41' 1980 Morgan Out Islander AC, great condition
46' 2000 Jeanneau twin helms, 3 staterooms
49' 1979 Transpacific Ketch, Bluewater, 3 strms, loaded


$45,000
$79,000
$179,900
$180,000


Power
26' 1987 Whale Boat Navy Capts gig, Perkins, 4109 $33,000
29' 1994 Phoenix SF, Twin Volvos, trim tabs, outriggers $64,500
32' 1996 Carver 325 Twin Crusaders, great condition $59,900
36'1980 Litton Trawler, Yanmar diesels, Gen Set $30,000
40' 1999 Tiara 4000 Express, Genset, AC, Twin Cats $275,000
Call, fax or visit our website for a complete list of boats for sale
www.stthomasyachts.com


.... r r-u

















OCTOBER

4 FULL MOON
4 10 42nd Bonaire International Sailing Regatta. www.bonaireregatta.org
5 Thanksgiving Day. Public holiday in St. Lucia
10 War of 1868 Anniversary. Public holiday in Cuba
12 Public holiday in The Bahamas (National Heroes Day), Bermuda
(National Heroes Day), Belize (Pan American Day), Puerto Rico, USVI
and Turks & Caicos (Columbus Day)
15 Jounen Kweyol Entenasyonnal (International Creole Day), St. Lucia
17 Public holiday in Guyana (Diwali) and Haiti (Death of Dessalines)
17 Feast of La Marguerite. St Lucia. Cultural folk festival
18 Divali. Public holiday in Trinidad & Tobago
19 Public holiday in Jamaica (National Heroes Day)
and BVI (St. Ursula's Day)
19 USVI Hurricane Thanksgiving Day (Public holiday in USVI
if no hurricanes occurred)
21 Antillean Day. Public holiday in Netherlands Antilles
24 United Nations' Day. Public holiday in Haiti
24 International Human Rights Day. Public holiday in Turks & Caicos
25 Thanksgiving Day. Public holiday in Grenada. Boat races
27 Independence Day. Public holiday in St. Vincent & the Grenadines.
Local boat races in Bequia
30 31 12th Annual Foxy's Cat Fight multihull regatta, Jost Van Dyke.
West End Yacht Club (WEYC), Tortola, BVI, tel (284) 495-1002,
fax (284) 495-4184, mvh@surfbvi.com, www.weyc.net
30- 1 Nov Triskell Cup Regatta, Guadeloupe. www.triskellcup.com
30 1 Nov World Creole Music Festival, Dominica. www.wcmfdominica.com



NOVEMBER

1 Public holiday in Haiti and French West Indies (All Saints' Day),
Antigua & Barbuda (Independence Day) and USVI
(D. Hamilton Jackson Day)
2 FULL MOON. Public holiday in Haiti (All Souls' Day)
2 20th West Marine Caribbean 1500 sets sail from Hampton, VA to Tortola.
www.carib1500.com
3 Independence Day. Public holiday in Dominica
4 Community Service Day. Public holiday in Dominica
6 8 2nd Heineken Regatta Curacao. www.heinekenregattacuracao.com
7 8 Budget Marine Women's Caribbean One Design
Keelboat Championship, St. Maarten
9 Public holiday in Cayman Islands (Remembrance Day)
and Dominican Republic (Constitution Day)
11 Public holiday in Puerto Rico and USVI (Veterans' Day),
French West Indies and BVI (Armistice Day), St. Maarten
(St. Maarten Day), and Bermuda (Remembrance Day)
11 15 US Women's Match Racing Championship, St. Thomas, USVI.
St. Thomas Yacht Club, tel (340) 775-6320, fax (340) 775-3600,
manager@styc.net
14 St. Maarten Open Optimist Championship. St. Maarten Yacht Club
(SMYC), tel (599) 544-2075, fax (599) 544-2091, info@smyc.com,
www.smyc.com
14- 15 St. Thomas Radiology Women's Regatta, USVI. St. Thomas Yacht Club,
tel (340) 775-6320, fax (340) 775-3600, manager@styc.net,
16 Statia-America Day. Public holiday in Statia
18 Battle of Vertieres Day. Public holiday in Haiti
19 Public holiday in Puerto Rico (Discovery Day) and Belize
(Garifuna Settlement Day)
20 28 19th Aruba Heineken Catamaran Regatta. www.arubaregatta.com
22 ARC 2009 departs Canary Islands bound for St. Lucia.
www.worldcruising.com/arc/
23 Liberation Day. Public holiday in Montserrat
25 Republic Day. Public holiday in Suriname
26 Thanksgiving Day. Public holiday in Puerto Rico and USVI
27 29 JHR Caribbean Regatta, Antigua. Jolly Harbour Yacht Club (JHYC),
Antigua. tel (268) 770-6172, miramarsailing@hotmail.com,
www.jhycantigua.com
27 29 Course de L'Alliance Regatta, St. Maarten/St. Barths/Anguilla.
www.coursedelalliance.com
30 Independence Day. Public holiday in Barbados


All information was correct to the best of our knowledge
at the time this issue of Compass went to press but plans change,
so please contact event organizers directly for confirmation,
If you would like a nautical or tourism event listed FREE in our monthly
calendar, please send the name and date(s) of the event and the
name and contact information of the organizing body to
sally@caribbeancompasscom



FREE Caribbean Compass On-line FREE

www.caribbeancompass.com


Whining About


the Beaten Track


by Don Street

I'm tired of hearing cruisers whine about overcrowded anchorages in the Eastern
Caribbean. Why complain that the track is beaten when you never get off the beaten
track? Those with a good boat of not too deep draft, 1 1 .11 navigation skills,
weather sense and no herd mentality can find plenty I. i
For example, if you've spent the hurricane season in the south and are heading up
the island chain, after leaving Tyrrel Bay in Carriacou head south and east and
anchor off Saline Island, **-'* 1 P bhamian moor because of the reversing tide. Then
head up the east coast ol ..... .. behind the reef. (When passing Point St. Hilaire
go dead slow and check the depth. The last time I was there, there were eight feet of
water, but that was a few years ago.) Anchor and go ashore at Windward to see local
schooners and sloops being built or repaired.
Then sail to Frigate Island, which is attached to Union Island by a low causeway.
There might be one or two other boats there.
At Mayreau, eyeball your way
up the EAST side behind the reef
8 in good light and anchor in sand.
o It's just as good as the Tobago
Cays, and no other boats! Use
chart Imray-lolaire B311.
If the weather is calm and set
tied, you can anchor at Landing
Bay on uninhabited Balliceaux.
From there, head to windward of
St. Vincent direct to Vieux Fort,
St. Lucia. (This is no good in win
ter when the wind is north of east,
but if the wind is east it is okay,
and if a little south of east it's a
."* i nice reach.)
-The east coast of Martinique is
seldom visited by yachts. Use
Imray-Iolaire chart A301 as the
Martinique chart A30 is of such a
scale it does not give detail enough
to really explore. Also there is a
locally produced guide that is
excellent.
On to the Saintes, where Terre
de Bas is much quieter than
Terre-de-Haut and has excellent, unpretentious restaurants. If the wind is in the
southeast and anchorage in Terre de-Bas not good, anchor in Terre-de-Haut by
Sugar Loaf a. i i,., i. across to Terre de Bas.
These are ;- I I examples. There are many more uncrowded anchorages to be
discovered as you proceed north. But by now you might be ready for some company!






YACHT FOR SALE

62' Sunseeker Manhattan 62














"-- --






Check it out on

www.yacht-tt.com











I Ciibba Cops Mare Ple


Antigua


Bequia


Grenada
I


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Design, Photography Art.
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Azores

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YACHT SERVICES
PT-9900-144 HORTA I FAIAL, AZORES
Providing all vital services to
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Incl. Chandlery, Charts, Pilots, Rigging
EU-VAT (14%) importation
Duty free fuel (+10.0001t)
TEL +351 292 391616 FAX +351 292 391656
mays@mail.telepac.pt
www.midatlanticyachtservices.com

Bequia

PORTHOLE RESTAURANT & BAR
& Shoreline Mini-Market
We serve breakfast,
lunch and dinner
VHF CH68
Phone (784) 458-3458
A friendly atmosphere where you can sit and meet people.
Admiralty Bay, Bequia
Noelina & Lennox Taylor welcome you!


TEAK & HARDWOOD
MARINE PLY
FINISHING PRODUCTS


astiiean Wood'4
Bequia, St. Vincent
Phone: 1 (784) 457-3000
cari bloods@vinrysurt.com





Fishing Diving Yacht Equipment
Electronics, marine electronics, 12 & 24 volts, inverters, lights,
N....H.
complete diving, snorkeling and fishing gear.
Phone: 784 458 3360 wallco@vincysurf.com
Hablamos Espahol Nous parlons Frangals
Wir sprechen Deutsch
The ONLY Duty Free Chandlery in BEQUIA


BEQUIA VENTURE CO. LTD
appointed agents in
St. Vincent & the Grenadines for

16JOTUN
Primer, Epoxy, Top Coat,
Antifouling, Thinners
PORT ELIZABETH, BEQUIA
Tel: 784 458 3319 Fax: 784 458 3000
Email: bequiaventure@vincysurf.com
B I- jj,{ m ]~,ijI_, : elIIIjI= l i igj,."] -= I=[,"sSSS[OO]


Carriaeou


CARRIACOU REAL ESTATE

Land and houses for sale
For full details see our website:
www.islandvillas.com
or contact Carolyn Alexander at
Down Island Ltd
e-mail: ISlander@carlbsurf.com
Tel: (473) 443 8182 Fax: (473) 443 8290

We also handle Villa Rentals &
Property Management on Carriacou


YACHT ASSISTANCE SIMON CORION
EXPERIENCED & RELIABLE SERVICES
Captain charter & delivery
Maintenance of boats
Looks after boats, manages yachts
Taxi Service
Cell: 473 459 1201 Home: 473 443 7592
Based next to Tyrell Bay Haulout
Parle Frangais



Dominiea

UNIQUE IN DOMINICA
Roseau & Portsmouth
Tel 767448-2705 Fax 767-448-7701
N Dockmaster Tel 767-275-2851 VHF 16
MjM info@domlncamannecenter com
c R www dominicamarnecenter com
The Dominica Marine Center is the
home of the Dominica Yacht Club
and your center for
SYacht Mooring Anchorage Grocery Store & Provisioning
* Bakery (Sukie's Bread Company) Water at dock Fuel
(Unleaded / Diesel) Ice Yacht Chandlery agents Budget
Marine/Sea Choice Products Mercury Manne /Yanmar Marine
* LP Gas (propane) refills Showers & Toilets (WC) Garbage
Disposal Secunty Telephone & Fax Mobile Phone Rental/
SIM Top Up* Laundry WiFI Internet* Beach Bar Nearby
Restaurants* Taxi & Tour Operators* Whale Watching & Sport
Fishing Light Engine and Boat Repair Customs / Immigration
Clearance Information Visa / Master Card accepted



To advertise in Caribbean Compass
Market Place, contact your island agent
(see list on page 4) or contact Tom at
(784) 457 3409
tom@caribbeancompass.com


TechNick Ltd.
Engineering, fabrication and
welding. Fabrication and repair of
stainless steel and aluminium items.
Nick Williams, Manager
Tel: (473) 536-1560/435-7887
S.I.M.S. Boatyard, True Blue, Grenada
technick@spiceisle.com

continued on next page -


A RI


DESIGN\


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4D I I I
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J.


S Martinique












Voiles Assistance
Didier and Maria
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located at Carenantilles dockyard
Open Monday to Friday 8- 1 2am 2-6pm
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tel/fax: (596] 596 74 88 32
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WHATS ON MY MIND



MAN OVERBOARD!
by Tina Dreffin

A day at sea sailing restores the soul. I desperately needed soul repair.
It all started early one morning. "It's going to become miserable in the Dominican
Republic," lamented Chris Parker during his morning SSB weather broadcast. "He
failed to say how bad it would get!" my husband, Peter, added later. When the gnarly
sub tropical, sub human ridge of low pressure descended upon the big island, it
brought downpours of biblical proportions. Bay waters in Samana around Scud, our
St. Francis 44 catamaran, turned red from mountain run off. ~ f:ll 1 ...
gallon water tanks from the first downpour. Everything grew wet: I I -
left that hatch open!), and me. My soul grew limp and drippy.
So when clear blue skies replaced bruised altostratus, we launch I ... I .. I
Mona Passage bound f-r ti-r T.1 .1--1d Tihe earthy smell of v I -Ra I I ,I
morning sea breeze, I f -Samana, but as r.. I.. I Ii ,I,
Dominican Republic, it was time to push east. The thorny path hh I ,1 "
Jimmy Buffet does wonders to the weary soul. Crank him up ,
you away. Since it was my turn at the helm, I chose the tunes. "C ... .... I ,, i
became "Changes in Longitudes". Steering with my toes, I
clapped my hands. My hair streamed behind me in the light l
breeze, and I let loose. Belting out lyrics of "afraid we would go "
insane," I felt renewed, perky and sassy.
Over my show in the cockpit, I caught phrases of an on-going
discussion coming from the main salon between Peter and our
son, Adam a speed demon at heart '"Why are we going so
slowly? 1 .1, .1 11 .1:; ;- Il.,-ough these swells at least two
knots fa- I I I' I their heads into the cockpit. I '
was jolted out of my reverie when Peter shouted, "Babe, what's
that THING behind you!" I thought he was kidding, but then his
brows furrowed, and I grew alarmed. I turned around in the
captain's chair for a peek, and then screamed. "Where did how
did what the !" Attached to our boat was a double football fi I I I .I
mass of polypropylene line studded with cola bottles and other trash.
Adam and I quickly collapsed the genoa, while Peter stripped, donned mask and Above: Peter grabbed his trusty rigging knife and plunged overboard
snorkel, and grabbed his trusty rigging knife. He -1111- 1 overboard into the depths Inset: Part of the enormous snarl of polypropylene line that had captured Scud
of the Mona Passage. I cried, "Babe, tie this rope I 1I my words were cut short
when his head disappeared beneath our twin hulls. "My beloved is overboard!" I I said earnestly. "That mass just appeared out of nowhere suddenly!" (Or an hour
wailed in my mind. ago? I don't know! Jimmy and I were checked out.)
Adam leaned over the side, trying to ascertain if the mass was entangled around We piled the thick, heavy line onboard; plastic bottles and a large span of netting
one of the props or the saildrives. He guided his dad between the hulls, while I stead were attached. The heap would all be properly dumped ashore: it was a death trap
ied the helm. Even without sails up, Scud can move through a sea like a steeplechase for sealife. Earlier, we were thrilled to observe the humpbacks in the Turks & Caicos
steed, being a performance cruising cat. The big swells, remnants of the low, worried . i. .i .... I ,i. I .I ... they migrated to their calving grounds in the Dominican
me. I couldn't see Peter. 'i,,,, .T 1. 11 r like hours. I wanted a rifle, in case any I ..I i. ....' ..1 easily become entangled.
sharks were lurking aro .. II .' ..... I of not noticing the problem and avoiding Nothing is worse on Scud than a poor lookout. I'd been BUSTED. I made a mental
it. Peter could be hit by a prop; myriad things could go wrong, note to play more sepulchral tunes when on watch. Jimmy would understand. But
Suddenly, Adam shouted, "Start the engines; go reverse!" I complied mutely, then a thought came to me, as I messed about in the galley for something special
"We're free!" Adam shouted. He dashed across the decks to locate his dad in the to appease the crew. By snagging the mess, I had possibly rescued a young whale
water. When Peter clambered aboard, I hugged him fiercely. "Sorry, babe. My fault," from death.


Caribbean-wide


sh:opLIL I















CLASSIFIED


1975 German Frers 39ft,
2 sets racing sailsUS 57.000
1981 Cape Dory 30,
US 39.000, St.Lucia
duty paid
2000 Catana 471, 4 cabin,
460.000 Euros
1987 Irwin 44 US 105.000
1992 Dehler 37 CWS,
90.0D0 Euros
1981 CT 54 US 195.000
2006 Bahia 46, Hi spec
upgrades, lots of extra
equipment with charter
contract, 390.0D0 Euros
i :. i l -I J. I

BOATS FOR SALE IN TRINIDAD
Tel (868) 739-6449
www.crackajacksailing.net


\ *..*




YOUNG SUN46F VENUS 1984 KETCH
fiberass vgcnewengine207
excelent live aboard and cruiser.
GPS, RADAR, VHF, Auto ilot,
EPIRB SSBWaterMakerAir-Con,
Sdar Panels, Wnd Generator &
more. Fll specs at www.free-
webs.com/venus46forsale Price
reduced for a speedy sale
US$169iO ONO Lying St Lucia.
E-mail venus46@lve.com or Tel:
596696-07429
FOR SALE TO RECOVER
BOATYARD RENT: 1. Dufour
Arpee, 30 ft Reduced to
$5.50dUS. 2. Fiberglass
Sloop, 31 ft, repainted no
engine, reduced to
$5a YUS. Call Don at Power
Boats in Trinidad at
(868) 634-4346, or E-mail
don@powerboats.co.tt We


Td (340) 513-4024


in the Virgin Islands.
Watermaker, wind genera
or, solar, davits, AGM bat-
eries, newer engine, navi-
gation electronics, dinghy.
$129,000 Tel (340) 344-262


IVVHII,Ht:.Th
1.kr


36 ilAHO--Ari A. iLIAI
iLrOOP ::i.i.. r I.- "
: : I : :,-i i l J
J J -- : d -
tours@vincysurf.com







; rl .*.AiE inA i
Single 150hp Yamaha
Outboards, low miles, nav.
rights, courtesy lights, com-
pass, VHF, full safety gear,
vests, seats 12, forward
helm, rear cushioned seat-
ing, complete with GPS
tracker and onboard cam-
era, Both boats are in very
good shape. 120k is for 2
boats or 65.5k USD each.
E-mail jibshot@earthlink.net.


SEA RAY 420 SUNDANCER 2004
Twn465hpYnmar Desels Perfect
: too mony extras to


BOATSFOR ALE


;J1 I. l..icj .1 Hill'.- P"K.:...-l Il
i- J. j ; _j

998 FOUNTAIN 25 C.C. w/ 200
HP 2004 Yamaha OB com-
pletely rebuilt in 2008,full radar
arch, cushioned sundeck,
VHF, ice chest, all required
C.G. safety gear,2 Fortress
anchors, dock ines and fend-
ers, turnkey ready to go. Fresh
bottom paint, and very fuel
efficient. Great deal at
$20,500. E-mail jmoraino@
yahoo.com Tel (340) 513 4024







HtniA,-- .'.Et i tut .6 "

terboard. On the hard at
SIMSCO, Grenada.
US$ 40,000 or try an offer.
boc@hotelhenan.


it,, r Iii A 311 1 .irr -n, ,-
design. Crossed Atlantic. Full
Inventory: SSB, Radar, Air X
etc. 18 hp Yanmar.
Good condition located
St. Martin US$ 25,0. E-mail:
clivetredger@gmail.com







0' STEEL WORK BOAT.
Caterpillar main engine
Np hern Lights generator.
Utility crane/hydraulics,
crashpump. OnlyUS$1500
1-1 I"" F .nail


very well maintained, sailed
only by owner and brought
in from NL on containership.
Ideal boat for comfortable,
fast cruising with family/
friends, and equipped for
club racing. All J-Boats
design weaknesses taken
care of in recent years.
Extensively overhauled with
new mast and rod rigging
(2002), large sail wardrobe
many extras incl. new
Raymarine autopilot (2007)
well-maintained Harken
winches, 2 anchors + chain
large sun awning etc.
Interesting price of 55100 US$
reflects current location
(Caribbean) and move to
larger world cruiser. E-mail
cochisestellendam@zonnet.nl

BENEIEAU FRST ASS 10- 'LAZN'
For sale in Barbados. Race
ready with an enlarged
cockpit. Keel and rudder are
original. Hull 1985. New rig
201. Large sail inventory.
US$15,000 Tel: (246) 230-3695


15hp, POA, Scuba dive gear,
new POA, Dive compressor
17cu.ftmin,gas,newUS$8i0D
Bequia. Tel (784) 457 3962
YAMAHA OUTBOARD ENGINE
150hp 4 stroke low hours. Tel
(784) 454 3474/ 457 4532.


Bequia, Lower Bay, Bells
Point, House and Land.
Serious buyers only. Sale by
owner. Call (784) 456 0866
after 6pm. E-mail
lulleym @vincysurf.com
CARRIACOU, ONE ACRE LOTS
and multi acre tracts. Great
views overlooking Southern
Grenadines and Tyrrel Bay
www.caribtrace.com



ACCOMMODATION BEQUIA
Recently completed, four
ensuite air-conditioned rooms
on waterfront property.
Panoramic view of Admiralty
Bay from verandah, access
to the sea from our own jetty.
Located in quiet northwest
corner of Admiralty Bay.
These rooms are comforta-
bly furnished in modern
style, and offered as room
only or bed and breakfast
for short or long term.
Day charters available to
neighboring Grenadine Is. on
55' sailing trimaran, water-
sports equipment available.
For further information. Tel
(784) 458 3942 E-mail
daffodil harris@yahoo.com


BEQUIA, FRIENDSHIP 2 apt i.. ..j : ,",';-i : a
SELDEN RIG for VINDO 35, house, upstairs 3 bedroom/2 i".:.:.C
deck stepped, boom, baths, unfurnished.
spreaders, lights, winches Downstairs, 2 bed/2 bath fur-
(has been changed for nished. Offered as complete
upgrade) 20D US OBO house or separate units. Tel:
i i:, J 1 (784) 495-3704 E-mail start up For more
I I -i t : .- -i : tinamitchell83@hotmail.com visit wwwmiramarsailingcom
then contact us
36HPYANMAROUIBOARDDIESEL. Sapphire Resort Marina-
Trinidad. Ceil: 868-650-1914 a St. Thomas. Safe-Private-
e-mail: JanDutch@tstt.nettt. Convenient. Long& Short
Term Rentals 65 ft Max. MARINE TECHNICIAN WANTED
ENGINES FOR SALE Volvo $1,200.00monthly. Adjacent Respected MaineEngineeing
60hp or 20hp; Perkins 7hp w/ Apartments also available. Co. in Grenada is seeking al
turbo-charger. Good working E-mail: lvc99@aol.com round experienced technician
condition. New and used Tel: 787-366-3536 formarinediesel engines,elec-
Vdvo parts.Call Lawrence in trical, electronics, watermak-
Trinidad (868) 730-4036 E-mail Sapphire Village St. Thomas ers, wind generators, AC and
dymphna15@yahoo.com Studios and 1 Bedroom refrigeration. We can assist
Apartments. Short & Long Term with work permit. Ideal for
SAILS AND CANVAS Rates. Starting @ $1,100.m0 cruiser o independent tech
EXCEPTIONALLY SPECIAL month. Boat Sips dso Avalle. looking for the stability of an
DEALS at http://doylecarib- See phot at www.vo.com established company in
bean.com/specials.hm #106617 Tel: 787-366-3536 or Grenada. Pease emcil CV to
Emil: Ivc99@ad.com enzamarine@spiceisle.com
CALVERT HOME SCHOOL Tel: (473)439-2049
Largequantityofhome-schod
books from Grade 1 through
6. For complete list E-mail PUERTO LA CRUZ, VENZ.
cathy@bequiadive.com INSURANCE SURVEYS, elec- US 0 per word-nclude nme,
trical problems and yacht address and numbers in count
COMPLETE KETCH RIG, masts, deliveries. Tel Cris Robinson Line drawings/photos accompany-
booms, rigging, sails, etc. (58) 416-3824187 E-mail ingclassdledsoareUS$10 Pre-pold
POA, Outboards 4hp, 5hp, crobinson@telcel.net.ve by he 15th of he month No replies


I ADVERTISERS INDEX


ADVERTISER


LOCATION PG# ADVERTISER


A&C Yacht Brokers Martinique MP
Admiral Yacht Insurance UK 40
American Yacht Harbor St. Thomas 12
Aquanauts Grenada MP
Art & Design Antigua MP
Art Fabrlk Grenada MP
B & C Fuel Dock Petite Martinique 29
Bahia Redonda Marina Venezuela 35
Barefoot Yacht Charters St. Vincent 14
Barrow Sails & Canvas Trinidad MP
Bay Island Yachts Trinidad 39
Bequia Marina Bequia 27
Blue Water Sailing USA 9
Budget Marine Sint Maarten 2
Budget Marine Sint Maarten MP
BVI Yacht Sales Tortola 41
Camper & Nicholsons Grenada 6
Caraibe Greement Martinique MP
Caraibe Yachts Guadeloupe 41
Carene Shop Martinique 18
Caribbean Marine ElectricalTrinidad MP


LOCATION PG# ADVERTISER


Caribbean Propellers Ltd. Trinidad
Caribbean Woods Bequia
CIRExpress St. Maarten
Clippers Ship Martinique
Cooper Marine USA
Corlon Boat Services Carriacou
Curacao Marine Curacao
Dockwise Yacht Transport Martinique
Dominica Marine Center Dominica
Dopco Travel Grenada
Down Island Real Estate Carriacou
Doyle Offshore Sails Tortola
Doyle Offshore Sails Barbados
Doyle's Guides USA
Echo Marine -Jotun SpecialTrinidad
Electropics Trinidad
Food Fair Grenada
Fred Marine Guadeloupe
Grenada Marine Grenada
Grenada Tourism Grenada
Grenadines Sails Bequia


MP
MP
MP
MP
39
MP
9
16
MP
8
MP
3
MP
28
8
MP
38
22
20
7
26


GRPro-Clean


LOCATION PG# ADVERTISER

Martinique MP Sea Services


lolaire Enterprises UK 25/38 Sopers Hole Marina
Island Water World Sint Maarten 5/48/MP Spice Island Marine
Johnson Hardware St. Lucia 23 St. Thomas Yacht Sales
Jones Maritime St. Croix 40 Superwind
KNJ Marine Trinidad MP SVG Air
KP Marine St. Vincent 15 Technick
Lulley's Tackle Bequia 26 Tikal Arts & Crafts
Marc One Marine Trinidad MP Trade Winds Cruising
Marina Zar-Par Dominican Rep 13 Trans Caraibes Rallies
Mclntyre Bros. Ltd Grenada 40 Turbulence Sails
Mid Atlantic Yacht Services Azores MP Tyrrel Bay Yacht Haulout
Navimca Venezuela 36 Vemasca
Northern Lights GeneratorsTortola 24 Voiles Assistance
Perkins Engines Tortola 17 Wallace & Co
Petit St. Vincent PSV 31 Wallilabou Anchorage
Port Hole Bequia MP WIND
Power Boats Trinidad MP Xanadu Marine
Renaissance Marina Aruba 11
Santa Barbara Resorts Curacao 10
Savon De Mer Caribbean MP


LOCATION PG#

Martinique 19
Tortola 12
Grenada 21
St. Thomas 41
Germany 28
St. Vincent 37
Grenada MP
Grenada MP
Bequia 27
Guadeloupe MP
Grenada 21/MP
Carriacou 29
Venezuela 35
Martinique MP
Bequia MP
St. Vincent 39
Martinique MP
Venezuela 35


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Throughout the tropics, coral reefs protect
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Full Text

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C A R I B B E A N C MPASS The Caribbeans Monthly Look at Sea & ShoreOCTOBER 2009 NO. 169 T H E THE P R O J E C T PROJECTTRADITIONSee story on page 26TIM WRIGHT / WWW.PHOTOACTION.COM On-line

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OCTOBER 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 2

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OCTOBER 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 3

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OCTOBER 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 4 Click Google Map link below to Þ nd the Caribbean Compass near you!http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?t=h&hl=en&ie=UTF8&msa=0&msid=112776612439699037380.000470658db371bf3282d&ll=14.54105,-65.830078& spn=10.196461,14.0625&z=6&source=embedCompass covers the Caribbean! From Cuba to Trinidad, from Panama to Barbuda, we've got the news and views that sailors can use. We're the Caribbean's monthly look at sea and shore. "Cruisers eagerly await the monthly arrival of the Caribbean Compass throughout the Caribbean. Issues are snatched up quickly and we often clip something for our files Ñ a first-hand trip report on a cruising destination, a list of radio schedules, island news, a recipe using tropical fruits and veggies, or the calendar of events. Love of the islands shines through each issue." Ñ Kathy Parsons, author of French for Cruisers and Spanish for Cruisers S/V Hale Kai Cover photo: Tradition at Antigua Classic Yacht Regatta, Tim Wright www.photoaction.com OCTOBER 2009 € NUMBER 169www.caribbeancompass.com The Caribbeans Monthly Look at Sea & ShoreWhale Saved!A Grenadines switch .............12What We DidƒThis summer in Grenada ......13Fire Down BelowAn experience to avoid ..........14Yule Love ItChristmas in Cartagena ........20Just GrandƒCayman Days .......................22Getting HereSailing directions US to VI ...28 DEPARTMENTS Business Briefs .......................9 Eco-News ..............................11 Regatta News........................16 Meridian Passage .................20 Cruiser Profile ........................24 Different Boats .......................25 Product Postings ...................30 Cruising Kids Corner ............34 Dollys Deep Secrets ............34 Cruising Crossword ...............32 Word Search Puzzle ..............32 Island Poets ...........................33 Sailors Horoscope ................33 The Caribbean Sky ...............34 Book Reviews ........................36 Cooking with Cruisers.....38, 39 Readers Forum .....................40 Whats On My Mind.........42, 45Caribbean Compass welcomes submissions of short articles, news items, photos and drawings. See Writers Guidelines at www.caribbeancompass.com. Send submissions to sally@caribbeancompass.com. We support free speech! But the content of advertisements, columns, articles and letters to the editor are the sole responsibility of the advertiser, writer or correspondent, and Compass Publishing Ltd. accepts no responsibility for any statements made therein. Letters and submissions may be edited for length and clarity. Compass Publishing Ltd. accepts no liability for delayed distribution or printing quality as these services are supplied by other companies. ©2009 Compass Publishing Ltd. All rights reserved. No reproduction, copy or transmission of this publication, except short excerpts for review purposes, may be made without written permission of Compass Publishing Ltd. Caribbean Compass is published monthly by Compass Publishing Ltd., P.O. Box 175 BQ, Bequia, St. Vincent and the Grenadines. Tel: (784) 457-3409, Fax: (784) 457-3410 compass@vincysurf.com www.caribbeancompass.comEditor...........................................Sally Erdle sally@caribbeancompass.com Assistant Editor...................Elaine Ollivierre jsprat@vincysurf.com Advertising & Distribution........Tom Hopman tom@caribbeancompass.com Art, Design & Production......Wilfred Dederer wide@caribbeancompass.com Accounting.................................Debra Davis debra@caribbeancompass.comCompass Agents by Island:Antigua: Ad Sales & Distribution Lucy Tulloch Tel (268) 720-6868 lucy@thelucy.com Barbados: Distribution Doyle Sails Tel/Fax: (246) 423-4600 Curaçao: Distribution Budget Marine Curaçao curacao@budgetmarine.com Tel: (5999) 462 77 33 Dominica: Distribution Hubert J. Winston Dominica Marine Center, Tel: (767) 448-2705, info@dominicamarinecenter.com Grenada/Carriacou/Petite Martinique: Ad Sales & Distribution Karen Maaroufi Cell: (473) 457-2151 Office: (473) 444-3222 compassgrenada@hotmail.com Martinique: Ad Sales & Distribution Isabelle Prado Tel: (0596) 596 68 69 71, Mob: + 596 (0) 696 93 26 38 isabelle.prado@wanadoo.fr St. Lucia: Distribution Lisa Kessell Tel: (758) 484-0555, kessellc@candw.lc St. Maarten/St. Barths/Guadeloupe: Ad Sales Stéphane LegendreMob: + 590 (0) 6 90 49 45 90steflegendre@wanadoo.fr Distribution Eric Bendahan Tel: (599) 553 3850, ericb@cirexpresslogistics.com St. Thomas/USVI: Distribution Bryan Lezama Tel: (340) 774 7931, blezama1@earthlink.net St. Vincent & the Grenadines: Ad Sales Debra Davis, Tel: (784) 457-3527, debra@caribbeancompass.com Tortola/BVI: Distribution Gladys Jones Tel: (284) 494-2830, Fax: (284) 494-1584 Trinidad: Ad Sales & Distribution Jack Dausend Tel: (868) 621-0575, Cell: (868) 620-0978 Jack.Dausend@Gmail.com Venezuela: Ad Sales & Distribution Patty Tomasik Tel: (58-281) 265-3844 Tel/Fax: (58-281) 265-2448, xanadumarine@hotmail.comISSN 1605 1998 3 NAILS MARSLYN LEWIS-ADAMS RYAN WEAVER

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OCTOBER 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 5 Our new E-commerce website Well indexed product catalogue more products than in our print catalogue and growing daily! Strong search engine. Any personal information entered by the customer is encrypted and secure. and links to Suppliers. "# New Items and Specials. Products & more Product links to manufacturers websites where you can download specs and manuals. Auto warning if you choose Oversize or Hazmat items for airfreight. Related items which may compliment the primary product. Prices & Payments m ents Price is actual shelf price now in all our stores! $#%$'(#)$ #*+,) Charge to your account if you have a charge facility with Island Water World in ) Online real time /$ Stock is actual stock in ) Online pricing is 102 lower than physical store pricing. Wholesale customers who have accounts will see store pricing and their wholesale prices. Shipping & Rates 3 to the entire Eastern 4 ($ 6$ $8+ $ Bermuda. See the shipping map click on each island $ shipping details.Brilliant rates ,"9':8) All our products are weighed. If you chose FedEx the system will calculate your freight. You will be pleasantly surprised. We offer FedEx prepaid :8 Quikpak Collect;Insel Sea Freight Collect and Store Pick up.

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OCTOBER 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 6 Visitors Not Included in New Venezuela Boat Tax In early September, Caribbean Compass began receiving unconfirmed reports from cruisers that a tax of one percent of a vessels value would now be charged on foreign-flagged vessels entering Venezuela. It is now understood that the main goal of the newly enforced law, which was written two years ago, is obtaining revenue from Venezuelan ship owners who have registered commercial vessels outside the country in order to avoid paying import duty. Before the terms of the new law were clarified, however, visiting yachtsmen feared that as owners of foreign-flagged vesselsŽ, they might also be expected to pay the tax. On September 21st, the tax office in Puerto La Cruz confirmed to Carlos Vázquez C., General Manager of Bahia Redonda Marina, that foreign-flagged boats belonging to foreign citizens (or boats in transit) are NOT required to pay the new one-percent tax. The new tax will be applied only to foreign-flagged vessels that belong to Venezuelan citizens. Restrictions in St. Georges Lagoon, Grenada As construction continues at Port Louis Marina in St. Georges Lagoon, Grenada, restrictions for boaters are in effect. The perimeter of the marinas submerged land has been marked by white cans with the Camper & Nicholsons logo affixed. This area is now an exclusion zone as designated by the Grenada Ports Authority. This action has been necessary to allow barge traffic to move safely between various locations on the site. All vessels are being asked to stay clear of the marked areas, where no anchoring is allowed. Access from the shore side of the Lagoon to the sea will remain open, however all boat operators are urged to operate at very slow speeds and stay clear of all barges. Construction is expected to continue until December 1st. US Weather Service Proposes Marine Zone Changes The US National Weather Service has proposed changing its offshore zoning system for weather forecasts. The Tropical Analysis and Forecast Branch produces offshore forecasts for the Gulf of Mexico, Caribbean Sea, and Southwest North Atlantic. According to the services website, the current offshore zones are too large to describe many local weather impacts. These zones cover very large areas that include reefs, islands, and channels, as well as coastlines with rugged terrain. This complex geography is often the cause of localized but significant weather impacts. The large sizes of the current forecast areas equate to fairly low-precision forecasts. But if more detail were added to the forecast text, it would be overly complex and difficult to understand. „Continued on next page Info & Updates Port Louis Marina … another great reason to visit Grenada ITALY | MALTA | TURKEY | WEST INDIES Grenada remains one of the most unspoilt and welcoming cruising destinations in the Caribbean. Now, with Port Louis, visiting yachts can enjoy the security and convenience of a beautifully appointed, fully serviced marina … located in the lagoon adjacent to the islands capital, St Georges. Grenadas southern location allows for year-round cruising, including the summer months, and with an international airport just “ve miles away, Port Louis is the ideal base for exploring the wonderful islands of the Grenadines. As a Port of Entry, its easy to clear in and out through Port Louis, and our 24-hour security, dockside facilities and marina-wide wi-“ all contribute to making your stay safe and relaxed. Port Louis is owned and operated by Camper & Nicholsons Marinas, and our friendly and knowledgeable staff are on hand 24 hours a day to welcome yachts of all sizes from 20ft to 300ft. For more information about securing a berth at Port Louis, including the opportunity to purchase on a 30-year licence, please contact our Sales and Marketing Co-ordinator, Danny Donelan on +1 (473) 435 7432 or email danny.donelan@cnportlouismarina.com Port Louis Marina … just one more reason to visit the Spice Island. www.cnportlouismarina.com In Venezuela, the new yacht tax does not apply to visitors, but there have been recent reports of visiting yachts being checked for compliance with clearance and cruising-permit regulations

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OCTOBER 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 7 „ Continued from previous page The proposed solution is to divide the existing offshore forecast zones into smaller pieces. This would allow the forecaster the opportunity to describe more subtle differences in winds and seas than is currently possible, although with more simplified wording. Over the years, the size of the zones had to be fairly large in order to limit the number of zone forecasts that were produced. Because each zone forecast had to be manually typed, there was a limited amount of time to prepare the forecast for each zone. New technology allows the NWS to put much more detail in the forecasts than ever before, yet issue a product that is more concise and easier to read. For more information visit www.nhc.noaa.gov/proposal_web_pages/index.shtml. Feedback on the proposed new zoning system is being solicited. Dominica Continues Security Push Hubert Winston reports: After two separate armed robberies on yachts in Portsmouth Bay, Dominica, in May and June of this year, the local community played a key role in the capture of two men involved in both of the crimes by identifying important evidence. Two of the men involved in the more recent crime were each recently sentenced to more than eight years in prison. A third attacker, believed to be a juvenile, is still at large, but his identity is known and he is currently being sought. The Dominica Marine Association and the Discover Dominica Authority in the Ministry of Tourism played roles in getting the victims back on-island to help the prosecutions case. I would like to extend special thanks to John Dyer, Julia Russ, Inspector Cuffy of the Portsmouth Police, Helen Clarke of the Cabrits Dive Center, and the people of Portsmouth for their help in closing this chapter. The Dominica Marine Association is working with the Ministry of Legal Affairs and other Government agencies to promote mandatory minimum sentences for individuals who commit crimes with weapons. Look, Mom, Were on TV! You dont have to speak German to enjoy Siebenmeere TV. Visit www.siebenmeere.tv and join Rolf and Joachims fun-packed sailing adventures in the Eastern Caribbean. Episode 12 is devoted to St. Lucia, from Rodney Bay Marina to cassava cakes, Gros Islet night to the rainforest. Episode 13 records their trip to St. Barths, including sailing in the Bucket Regatta and taking a peek in the kitchen of a local restaurant. In episode 15 they visit Bequia for the Music Fest, kite flying, Easter Regatta and more, plus a sail to the Tobago Cays. Keep checking the site for further episodes. In mid-November the voyage will continue to Barbados, Grenada, the Virgin Islands, Puerto Rico, the Dominican Republic, Haiti, Jamaica, Cuba, the Bahamas, Florida and then the US East Coast. Eight Bells The king is dead, long live the king! Antigua-based yachtsman, writer and cartoonist Bob Williamson, best known as the King of Redonda, passed away on August 27th. „Continued on next page NOAAs proposed new zones for offshore weather forecasts. Let them know what you think! Bob Williamson aboard his schooner St. Peter . The King of Redonda and his royal yacht were long-standing parts of the English Harbour sceneCHRIS DOYLE

PAGE 8

OCTOBER 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 8 Grenada „ Continued from previous page In the words of his daughter, Tamara, King Bob set sail on his final voyage and into uncharted waters. He did so with heart in hand and a true explorers determination.Ž Born in Canada, Bob bought the 74-foot square-rigged schooner St. Peter in St. Petersburg, Russia, and sailed it to the Caribbean, settling in English Harbour. Bob contributed humorous stories and illustrations to Caribbean Compass and other publications, and published a book of his essays entitled Bunk (A Book of Short Stories and Cartoons to Keep by Your Bunk), and a sequel, Double Bunk . St. Peter , which was built to an 18th century design, appeared as The Black Pearl in all three Pirates of the Caribbean movies. King Robert the BaldŽ was the fourth King of Redonda, a tongue-in-cheek title going back to 1880 and giving its bearer the monarchy of an uninhabited island off Antigua. When another claimant to the crown once appeared, King Bob reportedly challenged the usurper to a duel „ cupcakes at 30 paces. Curaçao Kayakers Thousand-Mile Challenge Jayson Persaud reports: Ryan de Jongh of Curaçao intends to kayak from St. Martin to Curaçao to raise awareness and funds for environmental protection. Through his Clear Water Challenge IIIŽ, Ryan hopes to draw attention to, and support for, the work of the 52-year-old Caribbean Research & Management of Biodiversity (Carmabi) foundation. He will be starting from St. Martin on December 4th to paddle to Curaçao, 1003 miles (1606 kilometres) away, arriving approximately 22 days later. Stops are planned at Statia, St. Kitts, Montserrat, Guadeloupe, Dominica, Martinique, St. Lucia, St. Vincent, the Grenadines, Grenada, Isla Blanquilla, Los Roques, Las Aves and Bonaire. Ryans previous Challenges include kayaking from Bonaire to Curaçao, from Curaçao to Aruba, and around Curaçao. For more information on Carmabi visit www.carmabi.org. For more information on Ryans project visit natureislife.org. Free at Last Starting with this issue, the entire contents of each months Caribbean Compass will be FREE online. This is our recession busterŽ gift to the yachting community and everyone who loves the Caribbean. Check it out at our spiffy new-look website, www.caribbeancompass.com, and spread the word! Caribbean Compass On-line FREE www.caribbencompass.com

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OCTOBER 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 9 World Cruisers Online Resource w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w . . . . . . . . . . . . . b b b b b b b b b b b b b b b b b b b b b b b b b b b b b b b b b b b b b b b b b b b b b b b b b b w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w s s s s s s s s s s s s s s s s s s s s s s s s s s s s s s s s s s s s s s s s s a a a a a a a a a a a a a a a a a a a a a a a a a a a a a a a a a a i i i i i i i i i i i i i i i i i i i i l l l l l l l l l l l i i i i i i i i i i i i i i i i i i i n n n n n n n n n n n n n n n n n n n n n n n n n n n n n n n n n n n n n g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g . . . . . . . . . . c c c c c c c c c c c c c c c c c c c c c c c c c c c c c c c c c c c c c c c c c o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o m m m m m m m m m m m m m m m m m m m m m m m m m m m m m .bwsailing.co n n n n n n n n n o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o m m m m m m m m g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g c c c c c c c c c c c c c c c c c c c c c c a a a a a a a a a a a a a a a a a a a a a a a a a a a a a a a a a a a a a a s s s s s s s s s s s s s s s s s s s s s s s s s s s s s s s s s s s s s s s s b b b b b b b b b b b b b b b b b b b b b b b b b b b b b b b b b b b b b b b b b b b b b b b b b b b b b b b b m m m m m m m m m m m m m m m m m m m m m m m m m m m m m m m m m m m m n n n n n n n n n n n n n n n n n n n n n n n n n n n n n n n n n n n n n n n n n n i i i i i i i i i i i i i i i i i i i i l l l l l l l l l l l l l l l l l l l l l l l l l i i i i i i i i i i i i i i i i i i i i w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w w o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g g w w w w w w w w. w. w . . b b b b b b w w w w s s s s a a a a a a i i i i l l i i i i n n n g g g g g g g g . . . . c c o o o o o m m m 2 Free Issues of Blue Water Sailing magazine 100s of Boat Reviews Latest Cruising News & Notes Exclusive Link to Yachts for Sale BWSs Cruising Classi“eds Worldwide Marine Weather Forecasts The Worlds Best Cruising Magazine BUSINESS BRIEFSWin Dinghy/Outboard at Island Water World Online! Anyone who buys anything at Island Water Worlds online store www.islandwaterworld.com from now until the end of January 2010 is eligible to win a great dinghy and outboard combination. Island Water World will give away three of these combos, each consisting of a Walker Bay Air Floor Hypalon AF240 dinghy and a Mercury 5-horsepower outboard. There will be a random drawing at the end of November, December and January. Island Water World will ship each months winner a combo free of charge, provided they are at a destination the company ships to (click on the websites shipping map). The draw is cumulative „ this means, for example, if you buy something in October you will be eligible for the draws in November, December and January. Island Water Worlds Managing Director, Sean Kennelly, says, We want to demonstrate how easy and secure it is to buy online here in the Caribbean and, equally importantly, how reasonable our freight rates are. It is surprisingly cheap to FedEx a dinghy and engine to Curaçao or Martinique from Sint Maarten, or LIAT Quikpak a windlass or fridge down to Trinidad or Bequia.Ž For more information see ad on page 5. New Website for Northern Lights The new www.northern-lights.com website will provide visitors with an entirely new interface to view Northern Lights line of marineand land-based diesel generator sets and Lugger propulsion engines. While popular features like product specifications, comprehensive literature and up-to-date dealer locations are still mainstays of the site, the overall look of Northern Lights Website is being dramatically upgraded. The site has also been re-designed to be more customer-focused. Product information, a dealer directory, drawings and literature are quickly available with prominent links, as well as links to corporate news and archives. A newly upgraded search feature will allow visitors quick access to information on specific Northern Lights products and parts. For information on Northern Lights dealers in the Caribbean, see ad on page 24. Barefoot Opens Raymarine Electronics Dealership in St. Vincent Barefoot Electronics, a sub-division of Barefoot Yacht Charters, has officially opened its Raymarine Dealership in St Vincent. Services offered include installation and servicing of GPS, chart plotters, radar, SSB and VHF radios, scanners, fish-finders and sailing instruments. Networking and interfacing of PCs to marine electronics is also a specialty, and all installations and repairs are completed to NMEA (National Marine Electronics Association) and ABYC (American Boat & Yacht Council) standards by a Raymarine-certified installer. In addition to Raymarine, Barefoot Electronics also holds dealerships for NavPod, Scanstrut and Tacktick wireless instruments. For more information see ad on page 14. Get Weather on Your Laptop or PC Moving weather is an animated weather forecasting software that enables its users to get the weather on their laptops or PCs for up to seven days anywhere in the world from anywhere in the world, via WiFi, mobile or satellite phones, or even SSB radio. It provides pressure, wind, rain, cloud cover, humidity and temperature in as little as five-minute chunks. The software itself contains all the maps and graphics, so when the user downloads the forecast they simply download the data for the weather they want for the area they want, thereby keeping the file size to a minimum and rendering it very cost effective even for satellite phone users. Becoming popular throughout the UK and Europe, the product was distributed within the RYA magazine and has been endorsed by the World Cruising Club, a number of sailing schools and marinas, and Sir Robin Knox-Johnston. Moving weather are offering a 30-day free trial via their website www.movingweather.com, where you can also download the software itself at www.movingweather.com/products/download. For more information see classified ad on page 46. Mark Kilty reports: What is The Wirie? As cruisers traveling by boat throughout the Caribbean, we discovered the need for a WiFi device that is simple to install and use, affordable and powerful. Everyone we meet along the way is looking for a better way to get online from his or her boat. People dont want to take their computers ashore and risk the dinghy ride or get caught by a sudden squall. They want the convenience of internet from the comfort of their boat. „Continued on next page

PAGE 10

OCTOBER 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 10 „ Continued from previous page There are numerous products on the market, such as 5mileWiFi, Radiolabs, Port Networks, IslandTime PC. All were built and designed for the marine environment but, in our opinion, each of them was lacking. So, we invented and built our own marine WiFi solution to meet our needs and those of other cruisers. Our product is called The Wirie. It is a totally waterproof unit that is easy to plug into your laptop, easy to use, very powerful and suited for the cruisers budget. While down here in the Caribbean, the units have become so popular that we started a company in the US, and now manufacture and ship the units anywhere in the world. Caribbean cruisers will find us on our sailing catamaran Irie throughout the islands. For more information visit thewirie.com. Falcon Stretched at Fortress Marine, St. Kitts Emma Warren reports: Construction of the Falcon was started in 1985 by Doug Brookes, the owner of Brookes Boatyard. Brookes is known across the Caribbean for his exquisite design and construction of catamarans, both sail and power. Falcon, a lightweight 53-foot sailing catamaran, was designed for speed. Twenty-three years later, Falcon was put back into the hands of her builder when her new owners inquired about extending the cabin area. Brookes considered the best option would be a radical concept: cutting the vessel in half and inserting a seven-foot plug. His approach was to make everything balance while making Falcon bigger. The whole operation took place at Brookes new boatyard in St. Kitts, Fortress Marine Ltd. Brookes is supported by his two business partners in Fortress Marine Ltd., Patrick Ryan and Philip Walwyn. These three sailors, who have known each other since the 1960s, were brought together by friendship and their love of sailing and the sea. Brookes and Walwyn had feature articles written on them in WoodenBoat in July/ Aug 2007 and Professional Boatbuilder in June/July 2009. The alterations made to Falcon took some time; however the crew and Brookes are very proud of the outcome. After her complete bow to stern makeover, Falcon looks better then ever and is ready to put up her sails and ride the waves. Fortress Marine Ltd. continues to build bigger and better catamarans and is presently finishing up a 70-foot day charter sail cat for the end of the year. For more information visit www.fortressmarineltd.com. Jamaicas Errol Flynn Marinas New Services Leasing arrangements are being finalized for the operation of the pool bar and the gourmet shop/delicatessen at Errol Flynn Marina in Port Antonio, Jamaica. Both services are expected to be in operation not later than December 1st. This will mark the first time the pool bar has been in operation on a full-time basis since the marina opened in 2004. For more information visit www.errolflynnmarina.com. Nanny Cay, Tortola, Expands Chandlery Nanny Cay, the largest full-service marina and boatyard in the British Virgin Islands, is expanding its chandlery operation. The 1800-square-foot shop is going to be enlarged to 2800 square feet, an increase of nearly 60 percent. The expansion will enable Nanny Cay to stock and display more products including inflatable dinghies and outboard engines; Nanny Cay is the BVI dealer for AB Inflatables and Tohatsu outboards. For more information visit www.nannycay.com. Crown Bay, St. Thomas, Releases Winter Season Rates Early Crown Bay Marina in St. Thomas, USVI, has released their 2009/2010 winter season rates early to lure yachts to the Caribbean. Traditionally, these published rates dont hit the market until the Ft. Lauderdale Boat Show at the end of October, but the early release hopes to have yachts start thinking CaribbeanŽ sooner than that. We recognize that a number of yachts and owners are pulling back during this economic downturn,Ž said Director of Operations, Jane Wherren. We wanted to let them know that there is value and service available in the Caribbean, and the Virgin Islands.Ž For more information visit www.crownbay.com.

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OCTOBER 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 11 Countdown to Control Land-Based Marine Pollution Earlier this year, the United States became the sixth country to sign the Wider Caribbeans environmental agreement Land Based Sources of Marine Pollution ProtocolŽ (LBS), joining Belize, France, Panama, St. Lucia, and Trinidad & Tobago in their efforts to protect the Caribbean Sea from pollution. According to United Nations Environment Programme studies, more than 80 percent of marine pollution in the Caribbean Sea originates from activities on land, with the main sources being sewage and run-off from poor agricultural practices and land use. The LBS Protocol aims to reduce pollution by implementing improved standards for wastewater discharges and industrial effluent, and through the promotion and use of best management practices and improved technologies. It is one of three protocols under the UNEP-administered Cartagena Convention for the Protection and Development of the Marine Environment of the Wider Caribbean RegionŽ. The Wider Caribbean Region includes those countries that border eastern Florida south of 30° north latitude, the Straits of Florida, the Gulf of Mexico and the Caribbean Sea. The seaward boundary of the region is the 200-mile Exclusive Economic Zone of each country. It is critical to have this Protocol enter into force to secure the economic sustainability of the region,Ž says the Coordinator of the Caribbean Environment Programme, Nelson Andrade Colmenares. With increased coastal development, more stringent pollution reduction and prevention controls must be implemented. The LBS Protocol enables this to be done and it is the intention of the UNEP Caribbean Environment Programme to have it enter into force this year.Ž Three more signatures are required for the LBS Protocol to become legally binding for the 23 Contracting Parties to the Convention. National promotional workshops to increase awareness of the LBS Protocol have been held in Jamaica, Grenada, Haiti, Barbados, the Dominican Republic and Nicaragua. Outreach: St. Croix Marine Parks Eco-Van The USVIs Department of Planning and Natural Resources showed off the East End Marine Park Eco-Vans new looks during Earth Day festivities in April. Local artist Joan Szatkowski donated the marine-themed design, from which decals were created and installed on the vans exterior. The Nature Conservancy funded the decals installation with a NOAA grant to increase awareness, usage and preservation of the Park, its services and environment, while recognizing its recreational benefit to the community. The Eco-Van has been in use since late 2007, as one part of the Parks three-step educational program, which also includes experiences in the classroom and during field trips to the Virgin Islands first territorial marine park. Bringing the islands ecosystems to the community is the main task Education & Outreach Coordinator Karlyn Langjahr hopes to accomplish with the program. She encourages students to use all of their senses when learning about marine ecology, and the Eco-Van offers initial eye appeal not only to students but also to anyone else who sees the van on the road, or at a shopping center, fair or school. Currently in development is a Traveling OceanŽ exhibit, which will include a touch-tank. Creatures that may be incorporated into the exhibit include sea stars, sea urchins, hardy fish and others from sea grass beds and beaches within the park. Established in 2003, the St. Croix East End Marine Park includes nearly 60 square miles of a wide variety of marine habitats and organisms. Its coral reefs, mangroves, seagrass beds, salt ponds and beaches are home to many rare and endangered land and sea animals. Caribbean Members of Whaling Commission Given Financial Help At the June 2009 Annual Meeting of the International Whaling Commission, it was announced that Caribbean member states would receive financial assistance to enable their Commissioners and fisheries experts to attend meetings of the IWCs Working Groups in different parts of the world. Outgoing Commission Chairman William Hogarth said, We recognize the burden of the costs on Caribbean countries, indeed on all the member-states that are developing countries, so they can participate in the deliberations that are ongoing about the future of the IWC.Ž According to a report at caribbeanworldnews.com, the IWC is providing funds to Antigua, Grenada, St. Kitts & Nevis, St. Vincent & the Grenadines, and St. Lucia, as well as to member states in Central and South America, Africa and the Pacific, so they can play a role in the search for an acceptable solution to such issues as the Revised Management Procedure that would pave the way for a resumption of limited and tightly controlled whaling overseen by the Commission; the value of scientific whaling research conducted by Japan; and the sustainable use of the worlds marine resources, including whales. „Continued on page 30 CARIBBEAN ECO-NEWS Bringing marine ecosystems to the community, St Croixs Eco-Van gets attention wherever it goes

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OCTOBER 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 12 August 29th found my husband Duff and me aboard our Gulfstar 62, Sudiki , anchored at Frigate Rock in Union Island. The day before, our friends on Tzigane IX had joined us and we were reveling in the quiet Grenadines anchorage. A chance sighting began a unique morning. While staring at the rock for inspiration at about 10:30AM, I saw spray where no spray should be. A young Bryde's whale had put herself nose into the rocks and, having no reverse gear, was stuck. She was blowing at regular intervals, which we had heard but did not identify among the shore noises. We quickly located her and went by in the dinghy to investigate. (I have referred to the whale as sheŽ, but have no idea if this was a male or female.) Brydes whales (Balaenoptera edeni) are unique in having three longitudinal ridges on their heads, while other members of this family have just one. A Brydes whale stranded in the nearby Tobago Cays in 1983. This one was approximately 30 feet long, of which at least 10 feet was grounded on a thin layer of sand over rock, and she lay beside a large piece of very sharp lava rock. She lifted her flukes as we came by the first time. They were about five feet across. My heart lurched seeing her so enormous and so helpless. Once we had found her we had a quandary. If the local fishermen found her, would she be a welcome dinner? We called Glenroy Adams from Grenadines Dive, a Bequia man who is a friend and a mover „ he was the first native of St. Vincent & the Grenadines to become a qualified scuba diving instructor. He has a passion for the marine environment and says he will do whatever he can to protect and preserve it. Glenroy was in St. Vincent, but he contacted his staff on Union Island and within half an hour the dive boat came round the corner carrying divemaster Jeremiah Forde, accompanied by Jerome Lewis and Marslyn Lewis-Adams, Glenroys wife and photographer par excellence. Duff retrieved a mega-thick rope from Sudiki and we got into the water with the whale. The reality of being next to a leviathan was truly awe inspiring. Touching her skin and viewing her underwater were unique experiences. She was so huge and so gentle with us. The water was covering her except for her dorsal fin, which we splashed with water, wondering about whale sunburn. Her skin was flayed and peeling in sheets where she rested on the sand. She some had very strange oval-shaped holes in her skin just below the waterline which were approximately a quarter to half an inch deep into the blubber. Duff, Jeremiah and Jerome quietly worked in concert and passed the line around her tail and attached the line to the dive boat. By this time sightseers arrived who helped to varying degrees. We took up tension and the grounded whale began to move immediately. Two people pushed her head and she slid about 20 feet back. Feeling free, she shook her flukes and the rope slid off as planned. However, she started moving forward and was in danger of re-beaching herself. The forward contingentŽ pushed her to their left with all their might. She stopped and then heaved forward and swam into about 15 or 20 feet of water. She gave a shudder and we stood back to see what she would do. She appeared strong, but we wondered if she had been ill or injured, or even if she had deliberately beached herself. Or perhaps she had just followed food into the shallows and gotten trapped. She seemed to wind up slowly as though to give everyone a chance to get clear. Then that enormous back started slowly lifting and those massive flukes went to work full force as she headed out to sea, gathering speed. A small stream of blood from her lower jaw indicated the only visible injury. As she reached the channel she did a full breach „ completely out of the water „ and was gone. Thanks to Marslyn Lewis-Adams of Grenadines Dive for additional information in this report. For information or reservations WWW.IGY-AMERICANYACHTHARBOR.COM 1.888.IGY.MARINASFishing Boats at American Yacht HarborAMERICAN YACHT HARBOR ST. THOMAS, USVIT +1 340 775 6454 F +1 340 776 5970 6100 Red Hook Quarters #2 St. Thomas, USVI 00802 ayh@igymarinas.com igy-americanyachtharbor.com World-class sport“shing with access to North Drop Host of ABMT Boy Scout Tournament & other IGFA events Full-service marina with 128 “xed slips Vessels up to 110 LOA, 10 draft, 40 beam Dockside electric & water In-slip fueling & pumpout Restrooms, showers, laundry, 24-hour security Mail, phone, fax, internet Duty-free shopping, “ne dining & exciting nightlife© 2009 Island Global Yachting Beaching and Breaching: A W h a l e Whale V i s i t s Visits U n i o n I s l a n d Union Island by Chris Walter

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OCTOBER 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 13 Tel: 809 523 5858 Visit: marinazarpar.com Contact MARINA ZARPAR VHF Channel 5 email: info@marinazarpar.com € High Quality Sheltered Moorings € Slips to 120 with depth 10 € Shore power 30, 50 and 100 amps € All slips with fingers € Showers, Laundry, Restaurant, 24 hour security € Immigration office in the marina for clearance € Free WIFI and Free Internet € Dinghy Dock € 12 miles East of Santo Domingo and 7 miles East of International Airport Marina Zar-Par The Dominican Republic's newest marina catering to the needs of cruising yachtsmen 18.25.50N 69.36.67W Ma Ma Za The Marine and Yachting Association of Grenada (MAYAG) and Port Louis Marina in association with RKD & Associates, invited cruisers visiting Grenada to participate in a band in the islands annual carnival parade. We really got the bug when it was Port Louiss turn to host one of MAYAGs meet the yachtiesŽ parties. Danny Donelan, Sales and Marketing Director at Port Louis, wanted to introduce Grenadas carnival in all its glory and invited Ricardo of RKD to model the available carnival costumes. At an evening get-together at Port Louis, Ricardo presented us with various ideas for costumes that we could wear. The bands theme would be Colours in the CloudsŽ and we could choose what color we wished to be. We decided to participate actively. (We later learned that our Danny was involved in many other events that we couldnt possibly have had time to do.) We all got so excited that we decided to go to as many as possible of the activities organized for the 2009 Carnival from August 7th through 11th. Susie on S/V Spirited Lady , Marilyn and Kent on M/Y Cordea , Lucie and Richard on S/V Marie Galante II , and Dudley and Bec on S/V Altair were the gang that stayed together and played together. Marilyn and Kent put us all to shame by participating in every single event, which started with Soca Night. According to them, it was pure energy. The next carnival event was Panorama. What a celebration of talent! We managed to entice a few more friends to come along for this spectacular musical show. Grenadas National Stadium hosted a great competition of steel bands. This is not a small concert either „ each of the bands consisted of 40 to 80 musicians and sometimes twice that number of instruments. We had no idea that this would be so magnificent an experience. Now remember, we intended to join in on many of the events related to carnival, but somehow JOuvert was not one of them. At 4 oclock in the morning, music and yelping and a big celebration began right outside our hatches. We have to admit we were cowards and stayed in our bunks. We learned later that we couldve slathered ourselves with baby oil first, then been covered in oil and paint, but we didnt. We are sorry to say we missed it up close, but in retrospect we think everybody should do JOuvert at least once. Monday Night Mas was very special. We all joined together at the end of the marina and planned to view the action. However, we stumbled upon a costume truck and discovered that we could buy a kit and also participate in this street jump-up, where party-goers in brightly coloured T-shirt bands wave fluorescent wands and dance through the streets. During the march this night, Carib Beer, one of the sponsors, followed the band in trucks with kegs and taps draped over the side for all to fill the cauldrons that were part of our Merlin costumes. It was another late night, but hey, ITS CARNIVAL! Before the big parade on Tuesday, August 10th, there was a pageant. Those of us who had costumes joined the thousands of players on stage at the National Stadium for all to see and to be judged. It was a long hot afternoon, but we did get a chance to see every last group that we wouldnt be able to see when we marched in the parade. The costumes were of every imaginable color and size. Some players wore itsy bitsy teeny weeny slips of costumes, and then others were so shrouded in masses of color, we really felt for them in the heat. Our band, Colours in the Clouds, came in third, thank you very much! The last event was the actual parade. Mother Nature had something to say about this and rained like mad, cancelling the event for this day. The parade was postponed until the next Saturday. By that time the sun was shining and our hats were blinking in the sun. What a great experience to be in the middle of these groups, not only seeing but walking, dancing and waving our flags and following the commands from the very loud microphones and speakers. The entire parade path was speckled with people selling every drink and food imaginable. We do love to patronize the local vendors and they were out in masses. These Grenadian people are so loving „ friendly and gentle people. Nobody pushed; they just shimmied up to you and danced their boogie-woogie all day long. Some of us sailors thought we just wanted to be observers, but all of us wound up participating. When we told the locals that we not only enjoyed Carnival but we were in it, they grinned with joy and never stopped encouraging us. We want to thank all of our co-collaborators and most of all THANK YOU GRENADA for the highlight of our summer! invi i ted crui sers vis s iting Gr enad a a to par tici pate e in a ba nd i n t h e is l an d s ann ua al carn iva l par a ade. We rea l ly y g ot t h e b u g w hen it wa as Port Lou iss tur n to hos t on n e o f MAY AGs me et the y ac cht iesŽ p art ies. Da an ny D onel an, Sales an d Ma r rket ing Dire ctor r at Por t L oui s , w an nte d to int ro d u c ce G rena d as ca ar niva l in a ll it ts g lor y an d in vite d Ri card o o of RKD to mod de l th e a v a i labl e c ca rniv al costu m mes. A t a n e ven ng gettog ge ther at Port L Lou is, R ica r d o pr res ente d us with var io us d e a s for cost u umes tha t we cou ld w ear. T h e b an d s t t h eme wou ld b b e  C o l ou rs i n the Clo ou dsŽ and we c ould cho ose what col or is n ot a sm all co onc ert ei musi cian n s a nd s o had no i i dea th a N ow r reme m b e ven ts r e l ate d one of t hem. A a n d a a bi g ce le h ave to adm i W e l e earn ed l baby y oil fir s didn n t. We retr r ospect lea as t once M on d a y to oge ther t the acti o t truc k a n partici p in bri g wan ds marc h follo w d ra p wer e late B t h tu t j a n d s li p s of costu m es o f color, we e really fe Clou ds, , came in thir d, , t hank y Th e l ast ev ve nt w as t he a a ctua l p a bou t th is a a nd r aine d li ke e m ad, c w as post pon ne d un til the n next Sat u our h ats wer r e bl in k in g i n th e su n of t hese gro u ups, not onl y s se eing b f oll owin g th e e co mman ds f f rom th enti re p arad d e pa th w as s s peckle d W h a t T o D o i n G r e n a d a i n S u m m e r ? What To Do in Grenada in Summer? P A R T I C I P A T E I N C A R N I V A L ! PARTICIPATE IN CARNIVAL! What a great experience to be in the middle of these groups by Lucie Rolland

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OCTOBER 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 14 BAREBOAT CHARTERS FULLY CREWED CHARTERS ASA SAILING SCHOOL PO Box 39, Blue Lagoon, St Vincent, West Indies Tel. 1-784-456-9526 / 9334 / 9144 Fax. 1-784-456-9238 barebum@vincysurf.com www.barefootyachts .com Barefoot Yacht Charters & Marine Centre € Doyle Sail Loft & Canvas Shop € Raymarine Electronics € Refrigeration Work € Mechanical & Electrical Repairs € Fibreglass Repairs € Laundry € Vehicle Rentals € Showers € Air Travel € Ice & Water € Diesel & Propane € Moorings € Island Tours € Surftech Surf Shop € Hotel Reservations € Quiksilver Surf Wear € Restaurant & Bar € Boutique € On-site Accommodation € Wi-Fi / Internet Café € Book Exchange Since 1984 T hursday, September 3rd, 2009, at about 4:00PM, saw the kind of excitement no one ever wants to see. The normally active anchorage at Porlamar, Margarita, Venezuela was disrupted by a disaster in the making. No matter where you live, you never want to be awakened by the smoke alarm. Jack, who had not been feeling well for a few days, was taking a nap aboard his boat in the middle of the afternoon and was awakened by his smoke alarm. He got out of bed, opened the cabin door and found the yachts saloon filled with smoke and small flames. He shut the door and escaped through a deck hatch, thinking clearly enough to take his air horn and a bundle of important papers, which are always together, with him. He sounded the air horn as soon as he was out on deck. It was heard by Alberto on La Creature , who quickly picked up Jack off the burning deck and kept him in his dinghy until more help arrived. Someone else also saw the smoke and put out a distress radio call to the others in the anchorage. Within minutes several people were in their dinghies on their way to help, some with fire extinguishers, others with buckets, yet others with cameras. Still others circled watching the activity with interest. More than half of the people trying to put out the fire were local fishermen. Yes, the same fishermen that so many cruisers curse and fear as pirates, speedsters and drunks. They all worked very hard to put out the fire and are to be commended for their bravery and action. They did ask for compensation for the time they worked, in the amount of six dollars each, as I am told is a local custom, as strange as that may seem. It is hard to imagine the cruisers alone could have extinguished the fire without the fishermens help. I was on my way to shore, which was in the opposite direction from the burning yacht, so I did not see what was happening. When I was told about the fire, I returned to my boat, grabbed a bucket and went to help. By the time I arrived, the stricken yachts entire cockpit was ablaze and smoke was pouring out of every hatch, dorade and vent, all converging into a huge plume of thick, dark black smoke billowing and rolling into the bright blue sky. For the next hour I stood in my dinghy, dipping buckets of sea water, then handing them up to a local man on deck who then threw the water onto the fire, down the hatches and anywhere that looked like it might burn, then passed the bucket back down to me to be refilled. Phil of Ibote and others were doing the same thing on the other side of the burning sailboat. Jack, Robert of Iwi and Fabrice of Kewani were on deck, in and out of hatches working below; no one could stay below for very long. Everyone was doing his best to save the boat. I could not see everyone working so I am sure I have missed mentioning several people here, for which I apologize. With the confusion of bodies on deck, each trying to find a flat place to stand out of the smoke plume and heat while still having access to a place to throw the water, and the mixing of all the voices, many in Spanish, some in English, all trying to get the attention of someone else „ ¡más agua aqui!Ž, more water here!Ž, get that out of the way!Ž „ the scene was chaotic. „Continued on next page A W O R S T C A S E A WORST-CASE W A Y T O W A K E WAY TO WAKE by Bruce Parnham ALL PHOTOS: HEIKE BAJU

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OCTOBER 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 15 „ Continued from previous page The Policia Marino boat dropped off Port Captain Bolívar and a young policeman on deck, then turned circles around the inferno and kept some of the many pirogues at a distance. There is something incongruous about a young cop, wearing his uniform and carrying a gun and handcuffs, standing in billowing smoke and throwing water from buckets onto a fire he could not see. He, too, is to be thanked. The Port Captain also managed to get all of the fishermen paid for their time, adding to the list the names of each of the officials in the police boat. The flames very quickly gave way to the water being thrown on them, but the hot spots did not want to die so easily and needed many additional douses with water. The fire extinguishers from several cruising boats were also discharged and must have been of some value. The cockpit portion of the fire was so intense it burned off the mainsail and its UV cover, and even melted much of the aluminum boom. Everything else made of aluminum in the cockpit and around the stern was also melted, including the self-steering gear and wind generator. The entire binnacle-mounted instrument array was gone „ not a sign of it was left. The heat did not penetrate into the lockers far enough to explode the propane tanks, although this had been a legitimate concern for everyone that was close to the area. The yachts interior was a charred and gutted mess. Everything that was not burned was water soaked. One surprise was when a small explosion sounded. While everyone was looking around the yacht to find its source, plenty of smoke started coming from the bow of one of the pirogues that was tied alongside. After a couple of buckets of water were unceremoniously dumped on that fire to extinguish it, I investigated, wanting to know what was flammable in the pirogue. I found what I believed was Jacks flare launcher (Jack later described it as his), which I suspect was picked up inside the boat then dropped into the pirogue, setting off the firing-pin device and launching the flare. This was about the time the local fire department showed up. They do not have a boat, so they hitched a ride, bringing no equipment at all with them. As the fire first destroyed the yachts electrical system, none of her pumps were working. Consequently all of the water that was being poured into the boat, stayed in the boat. The locals decided the boat was at risk of sinking and pulled it into shallower water. The last of the flames were being extinguished as they picked up the yachts anchor and towed her with a fishing boat until she grounded. They then set two anchors to hold her in place. Two cruisers, Trevor of Norgal and Lars of Arubean Princess , volunteered to stand watch on the boat all night to discourage looting. During the night the burnt yacht did not get any lower in the water, so there did not appear to be any water coming in anywhere. She was floating nicely in the morning. As if the damage to the yacht were not enough, Jacks dinghy, with the outboard mounted, had been tied behind it. The heat of the fire was enough to destroy the tubes of the deflatableŽ, which then let the outboard go underwater. The dinghy was towed to the Port Captains dock and stored there for the night. They soaked the motor overnight in fresh water, and Charlie of Aeolus was successful in getting it cleaned, dried and running the next day. The fire may have been started by a bread machine, which required running the engine for electrical power, all going through the inverter before powering the bread maker. Earlier Jack had noted the battery connections had gotten warm. The formerly beautiful 1987 Hans Christian, maintained in pristine condition by her skipper of four years, seems to be a total loss. An insurance surveyor from Puerto La Cruz arranged by Jacks carrier seemed to agree. The boat now sits on the hard at Chacachacare, Margarita, awaiting her fate. Now the official headache begins. Jack had planned to leave for a trip to visit friends and family, but he will not be allowed to leave Venezuela until arrangements are made for the boat. Today, right now, put down this Compass and go check your fire extinguishers. The needle should be in the green. Do you have one by the companionway, the galley, engine compartment AND your cabin? At least twice per year you need to take the extinguisher off its mount, and shake, rattle and roll the cylinder to loosen the powder, which otherwise will cake to the bottom or sides and will not spray. When rolled along the edge of a table, the cylinder should not be weighted on one side, but roll evenly. Do you have smoke detectors? They sense fire long before you can. People die in fires. Please dont be one of them. Bruce Parnham is cruising the Caribbean aboard S/V Rphurst. Above: The scene was chaotic, but fishermen and cruisers working together doused the fire Below: A yacht charred but not sunk, thanks to a smoke alarm and many helping hands

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OCTOBER 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 16 SAFEST WAY TO SHIP € PREMIER SERVICE FOR ANY YACHT € RELIABLE, FREQUENT SCHEDULES € UNIQUE DESTINATIONS € COMPETITIVE RATES Yacht at Rest , M ind at EaseWWW.YACHT-TRANSPORT.COM € 1 888 SHIP DYTSOUTHAMPTON ST. THOMAS, NOVEMBER MARTINIQUE PALMA DE MALLORCA, NOVEMBER NEWPORT FREEPORT ST. THOMAS, NOVEMBER ST. THOMAS PORT EVERGLADES GOLFITO LA PAZ VANCOUVER, NOV. & DECEMBER PORT EVERGLADES ST. THOMAS, DECEMBER MARTINIQUE PORT EVERGLADES GENOA DECEMBER PORT EVERGLADES OR ST. THOMAS PAPEETE, BRISBANE & AUCKLAND, DECEMBER DYT USA : Tel. +1 954 525 8707 € E-mail: dyt.usa@dockwise-yt.com DYT Martinique : Tel. +596 596 741 507 € E-mail: nadine@dockwise-yt.com DYT Newport : Tel. +1 401 439 6377 € E-mail: ann@dockwise-yt.com PHotos by Onne van der Wal REGATTA NEWS T&T Retain Caribbean Dinghy Championship Title For the second year running, the Trinidad & Tobago youth sailing team brought home the Caribbean Dinghy Championship team trophy. The young T&T sailors out-performed teams from Antigua, St. Maarten, Martinique and host country Barbados to retain the title. This years Caribbean Dinghy Championship was held August 15th and 16th on the waters of Carlisle Bay in front of the Barbados Yacht Club, and was organized by the Barbados Sailing Association and sanctioned by the Caribbean Sailing Association. The best result for Team T&T came from 11-year-old Myles Kaufmann, who won all nine races in the Optimist Junior Class for the 11-and-under sailors. Following Kaufmanns lead was 12-year-old Derek Poon Tip, who took top honours in the Optimist Senior Class for the 12to 15-year-olds by winning seven of nine races in his class. In the Laser Standard Class, Stuart Leighton had his hands full against Olympian sailor Karl James from Antigua, whom he finally managed to beat in the last race after placing second in most of the races. With his results, Leighton took second place in his class, as did Vessigny Vikings and former Optimist sailors Daniel Briggs (skipper) and Dekife Charles (crew), who competed for the first time in a two-man dinghy. Former Optimist sailor Wesley Scott made his first appearance in the Laser Radial Class this year and came in third place overall, despite some gusty winds on the first day. In congratulating the national team on their splendid performance, David Leighton, president of the Trinidad & Tobago Sailing Association, also thanked the Sport Company of Trinidad and Tobago for their tremendous support. Adventure Antigua Takes Young Antiguans to Sea Carol Smith reports: A fundraising event held in Antigua on August 22nd raised over EC$2,700 for Jolly Harbour Yacht Clubs Youth Sailing Program, which provides free dinghy sailing lessons to Antiguan-born children between the ages of 8 and 18. A special prizeŽ was donated to seven of the children in the program. On September 5th, Eli Fuller of Adventure Antigua took them sailing on his beautiful Carriacou sloop, Ocean Nomad . Not many of the young sailors had been on a boat bigger than the dinghies they sail off North Beach in Jolly Harbour. Once on board, the children were given a quick tour of the boat by Jason, the deck crew, then they were given a safety briefing from Captain Eli „ how not to fall overboard! They first sailed towards Sandy Island then altered course, with the youngsters helping to trim the sails under Elis watchful eye, and sailed up the coast until they could see St. Johns. Tony, the instructor from the Youth Sailing Program, manned the mainsheet and helped Jason with the sails. Eli kept the children entertained with question-and-answer games about the history of Antigua, and everyone learned something new. At Deep Bay Ocean Nomad anchored in the shelter of Fort Barrington, where all the kids jumped off the boat and swam to the beach and back. After much fun in the water they set sail again. On the sail home some of the children tried steering Ocean Nomad towards Montserrat. There were one or two wavy wakes and one or two that were as straight as could be. It was a big thrill for all the kids that had a go. The boat arrived back at Jolly Harbour at lunchtime, and the youngsters all gave a resounding cheer of thank youŽ to Eli and Jason for taking them on such a fantastic trip. Who knows, one day, as a result of the Youth Sailing Program, one of the trainees may end up working for Adventure Antigua and taking new trainees out for a sail! For more information on the JHYC Youth Sailing Program contact Pippa Pettingell at pippapettingell@ hotmail.com. St. Thomas Yacht Club Sailor in US Match Racing Event While visiting relatives in Detroit, Michigan, USVIbased sailors Tony and Ellen Sanpere happened to cross tacks with St. Thomas sailor Taylor Canfield. Ellen reports that Taylor competed in the Detroit Cup, a World Match Racing Tour Category 2 Event, from September 3rd through 6th. Twelve teams from all over the world competed in a round robin for world match race points and an invitation to the Brasil Cup (www.worldmatchracingtour.com). Taylor was by far the youngest and beat all but four of the older, more experienced teams. His father, Bill Canfield, is manager of the St. Thomas Yacht Club. Anna Tunnicliffe, the sole US Olympic sailing gold medalist in Beijing, won the regatta „ she was extremely tough competition for this Antilles School graduate, now attending Boston College. Even Sailing Rules guru Dave Perry could not beat Anna OR Taylor! Jamaican Entry for Clipper Round the World Race Jamaica will field an entry in the Clipper 09-10 Round the World Yacht Race. The boat, named Jamaica Lightning Bolt , in honor of the fastest man on earth, will compete against nine identical 68-foot yachts in the 35,000-mile race around the world. It sees the Caribbean islands return to the event after first fielding an entry in the 07-08 running of the Clipper race. „Continued on next page Team T&T with their individual trophies and the Caribbean Dinghy Championship Team Trophy. From left to right the team members are: Wesley Scott, Dekife Charles, Myles Kaufmann, Stuart Leighton, Daniel Briggs and Derek Poon Tip Above: Taylor Canfield of St. Thomas racing in the Detroit Cup Left: Young Antiguan dinghy sailors enjoying a sail aboard a traditional Carriacou sloop

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OCTOBER 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 17 Sabre M225Ti The Perkins Sabre M225Ti is designed to replace the Perkins M200 and M235 and provides more than 22% additional available horsepower in the same package.This large capacity 6 liter engine comes in a compact package and only takes out 225 hp. By comparison, our nearest competition takes that out of a 4 liter engine. Running at a low 2500 rpm versus the competitions 3300 rpm or higher, the M225Ti will have a longer life (minimum 12,000 hour TBO) and quieter operation. The gear-driven fresh water pump has a longer life and less to go wrong while the waste gate turbo charger gives better performance at lower rpms. An integral plate-type oil cooler combines fewer hoses with longer life and better efficiency. With Perkins outstanding marinization, excess hoses and belts have been engineered away and everything has easy access for stress-free maintenance.22% more (sea) horses www.partsandpower.comCall Parts & Power for your nearest dealer: (284) 494 2830 M92B M135 M225Ti „ Continued from previous page Jamaica Lightning Bolt will compete against international entries including Spirit of Australia, Uniquely Singapore, California, Qingdao, Cork, Edinburgh Inspiring Capital and Hull & Humber . Sponsors recognize that the Clipper Race provides a cost effective and high impact platform to promote tourism, attract inward investment and generate a strong sense of community engagement. The race is unique because the crews are all nonprofessionals „ and 40 percent of them were new to the sport of sailing before beginning the obligatory training programme. The crew taking part come from 33 nationalities and range in age from 18 to 69. Each yacht is led by a highly qualified professional skipper, and taking the helm of Jamaica Lightning Bolt is Peter Stirling. Peter says, I cant tell you how proud I am to be leading the team that will represent Jamaica. The race route will take in a visit to the island when we arrive at Errol Flynn Marina in Port Antonio next May and the team and I want to ensure that we arrive there in first place.Ž Jamaicas Minister of Tourism, Hon. Edmund Bartlett said, Sports tourism in Jamaica had a shot in the arm this week with Bolts amazing 100-metre world record time and with the gold medal performances from the rest of the Jamaican squad. To be involved again with the Clipper Round the World Yacht Race is yet another element of our strategy to put Jamaica on the map by using our sporting events, our sporting heroes and our sporting facilities to show the world that we may be a small island but we are a great nation of sporting excellence.Ž The Clipper Race was founded by sailing legend Sir Robin Knox-Johnston, the first man to sail single-handed and non-stop around the world. Sir Robin says, Its great to welcome Jamaica back to the race track and we look forward to working with the Jamaica Tourist Board as we take their message, Once you go, you know, around the world.Ž The Clipper 09-10 Race started from England on September 13th. Caribbean 1500 2009 Attracts International Fleet The 20th Annual Caribbean 1500 fleet will sport an international flair. In addition to the usual contingents from the US and Canada, sailors from Germany, Japan, the UK and Ireland will join the fleet. This year, Americas oldest and largest offshore cruising rally will depart from Hampton, Virginia on November 2nd and arrive in Tortola, British Virgin Islands, seven to 12 days later. The 20th Anniversary fleet is shaping up to be an interesting group,Ž explained founder and president Steve Black. We have veterans of past rallies, including several who participated in the first Caribbean 1500 in 1990. The first-time participants include four families with children. And it is always fun to have sailors from other countries involved.Ž More than 1,000 yachts and 4,000 sailors have participated in the Caribbean 1500 since its inception. This years rally will include special events at the Nanny Cay Resort and Marina in Tortola to greet the ralliers as they complete the passage. The Caribbean 1500 retains some of the competitive elements of traditional sailboat races, but offers social, educational and technological enhancements that broaden the appeal of the event to couples and families, as well as racers. Prior to the start, the participating sailboats will gather for several days of safety inspections, workshops and weather briefings. Over 10,000 website visitors each day will monitor the progress of the boats. With wireless transponders on each yacht, positions will be broadcast via satellite six times a day. Each boats track will be displayed on the Caribbean 1500 website using software customized to incorporate features from Google Earth. For more information visit www.carib1500.com. St. Thomas to Host US Womens Match Racing Champs Carol Bareuther reports: From November 11th through 15th, the waters off St. Thomass east end will host eight of the best female match racers in the world and their crews, at the US Womens Match Racing Championship for the Allegra Knapp Mertz and Adams Memorial Trophies. Competitors are selected by resumé and include US Sailing Team AlphaGraphics member and 2008 Olympic Gold Medallist Anna Tunnicliffe (North Cape Yacht Club/Lauderdale Yacht Club; ranked 19th), Genevieve Tulloch (St. Francis Yacht Club; ranked 21st), Katy Pilley-Lovell (Southern Yacht Club; ranked 23rd), Debbie Capozzi (Chicago Match Race Center; ranked 25th), Annie Gardner Nelson (San Diego Yacht Club; ranked 182nd), Meagan Ruhlan (Pymatuning Yacht Club; ranked 200th), Evan Brown (Davis Island Yacht Club; unranked) and Kelly OBrien (St. Thomas Yacht Club; unranked). Tunnicliffe is the defending 2008 champ and Capozzi won in 2006. Match racing „ two identical boats racing against each other „ is a one-on-one duel of strategy and tactics. This year the competitors will sail in IC24s. The IC24 or Inter-Club 24 was designed and built by two St. Thomas sailors. It uses a J/24 hull, which is fitted with a Melges 24-style deck mold that is wider, has no traveler, and is capable of carrying four to five sailors. We are really proud and excited to have the opportunity to host this championship, the first US Sailing Championship to be held outside of the continental United States,Ž says event chair, Ruth Miller. Womens match racing has been added as an Olympic event in this Olympiad and the competition is extremely high. We encourage everyone to come out to watch this spectator-friendly form of racing.Ž Founded in 1974, the US Womens Open Championship was initially developed to serve the interest of female sailors who wished to compete against other women at the national level in doubleand single-handed boats. The regattas were organized along traditional one design racing lines where boat preparation is a factor, and no eliminations were required. In 2000, a motion to change the US Womens Match Racing Championship from fleet racing to match racing was passed. The event is sponsored by Rolex Watch USA and Dry Creek Vineyard. For more information contact the St. Thomas Yacht Club at (340) 775-6320. St. Thomas Radiology 4th Annual Womens Regatta Set for November Carol Bareuther reports: Promoting womans tennis and sailing, and the camaraderie that comes from a weekend of close competition, is the goal behind the St. Thomas Radiology Womens Regatta & Tennis Tournament, held at the St. Thomas Yacht Club. The tennis portion of the event will take place November 12th to 15th, while sailing will be held November 14th and 15th. Girls age 12 and older and women are invited to enter the regatta portion of the event. Competitors will race in double-handed Club 420 dinghies. The race format will be round robins on windward-leeward and triangular-shaped courses in Cowpet Bay. The entry fee includes a T-shirt and meals. The sponsor, St. Thomas Radiology Associates, is a full service diagnostic imaging center, with a new Womens Imaging Center that offers services including bone densitometry assessments, mammograms and ultrasound studies. For more information contact the St. Thomas Yacht Club at (340) 775-6320. Full List Again for ARC 2009 Entries have now closed for this years Atlantic Rally for Cruisers (ARC), the 24th edition of this worldfamous annual transatlantic rally that has defied the economic doom and gloom yet again. The Rally organizers, World Cruising Club, have now opened a waiting list after accepting 225 entries for the 2009 rally. „Continued on next page Jamaicas entry (at far right) in the globe-girdling Clipper Race helps put the island on the worlds sports tourism map

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OCTOBER 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 18 THE SPECIALIST FOR BOAT MAINTENANCE IN MARTINIQUE Centre de Carenage 97290 Le MarinTel: +596 (0) 596 74 74 80 Fax: +596 (0) 596 74 79 16 carene.shop@wanadoo.fr Zinc Anodes Plumbing Marine Paints Batteries Epoxy Antifouling THE Le Marin „ Continued from previous page There are 28 countries represented in this years event, which starts on November 22nd in Las Palmas de Gran Canaria. The largest transocean sailing event, every year the ARC brings together more than 200 yachts from all over the world. The destination is Rodney Bay, St. Lucia. The 2,700 nautical mile passage on the northeast tradewind route typically takes between 14 and 21 days. While fundamentally a fun rally for cruising yachts, the ARC does have a more serious Racing Division, run under the auspices of the Royal Ocean Racing Club. Yachts in the Racing Divisions are not permitted to use their engines for propulsion (unlike the cruisers), although use of autopilots is allowed. The ARC distinguishes itself by successfully combining racing and cruising yachts with a mix of older and younger participants, all of whom enjoy the varied entertainment that is on offer at both the start and finish ports. For more information visit www.worldcruising.com. St. Maarten-St. Martin Classic Announces 2010 Program West Indies Events and the St. Maarten-St. Martin Classic Yacht Regatta Organization have announced the preliminary program for the Fifth Invitational St. Maarten-St. Martin Classic Yacht Regatta. The regatta will again take place from January 21st through 24th. The first race is from Great Bay to Marigot, the second is from Marigot to Philipsburg and the final day will see the yachts leaving again out of Great Bay to return there in the afternoon. The regatta will feature the battle of Lone Fox and Charm III for the perpetual trophy. Each yacht has already won the regatta twice and next years winner will take home the trophy. The regatta organization will have its headquarters at Holland House Beach Hotel on the boardwalk in Philipsburg. The Skippers Briefing and official opening cocktail on the Thursday, the Saturday evening party and the Award Ceremony on Sunday will be hosted by Holland House Beach Hotel. The regatta is sanctioned by the new Sint Maarten-St. Martin Classic Yacht Club. Course de LAlliance Island Hop: St. Martin, St. Barths, Anguilla Boats from around the Caribbean will rally to three exciting locations in the sixth edition of the Course de LAlliance, November 27th through 29th. Classes will include spinnaker, non-spinnaker, multihull and open, and all boats are welcome to enter. The start is in Simpson Bay, St. Martin. From there all classes will race to Gustavia in St. Barths. Competitors will overnight there and then set a course to Shoal Bay in Anguilla. The final leg is back to Marigot and the Marina Fort Louis, where all competitors receive free dockage for the evening. This year the entry fee will be lowered to 100 Euros from the previous 200 Euros, but participants will be responsible for their own meals. Registration is November 26th from 4:00 to 6:00PM, followed immediately by the skippers briefing. The event is organized by the Marina Fort Louis and sanctioned by the Sint Maarten Yacht Club. Sponsors include Marina Fort Louis, Windward Islands Bank, Petrosol, Dauphan Telecom, Siapoc, Madco, Interlux and Kitrad. All boats will sail under CSA rating and safety rules. For more information visit www.coursedelalliance.com. Superyacht Cup Antiguas New Dates for New Year The Superyacht Cup Antigua, now in its fourth year, has confirmed new post-Christmas dates with the Antigua and Barbuda National Parks Authority. The regatta will be staged from January 27th through 30th, 2010. For the past three years the event has been held immediately following the Antigua Yacht Charter Show in December but being so early in the Caribbean season, several yachts were not able to get to Antigua in time. The Caribbean version of the famous Palma event has been well received and has become popular with the big yachts; by moving to the end of January, the regatta will fit in better with more yachts cruising plans and thereby enable much greater numbers to participate. The RORC Caribbean 600 race, a 605-mile race around the Leeward Islands starting from Antigua on February 22nd, will also be a draw to many racing yachts. Also, By scheduling our event at the end of January we will not conflict with Christmas charters nor be too close to the St Barths Bucket at the end of March,Ž explained Event Director Patrick Whetter. Added to the programme this year will be a Pirates of the Caribbean Party on the second night and an option to join the Yacht Hop „ an open-boat style party „ on the third night. For more information visit www.thesuperyachtcup.com. Route du Carnaval: February 6th through 16th, 2010 Club Transcaraibes has announced the itinerary for next years yacht rally to fun: Route du Carnaval 2010. On February 8th, the fleet will sail from Port du Marin, Martinique to St. Lucia (25 nm), on the 9th from St. Lucia to Bequia (65 nm), and on the 10th from Bequia to the Tobago Cays (25 nm). On the 11th, a new stop will be made in the Grenadines: Petit Saint Vincent. On the 12th, the events longest leg (110 nm) will take ralliers to Trinidad to enjoy special access to the spectacular Trinidad Carnival festivities and an optional rainforest tour. For more information see ad on page 44. Yacht Rally to Cuba Planned for April 2010 Another Club Transcaraibes rally, the Transcaraibes, will depart Marina Bas du Fort, Pointe-à-Pitre, Guadeloupe on April 1st. There will be stops at Marina Fort Louis in Saint Martin; Marina Casa de Campo, Isla Catalina, Isla Beata and Bahia Las Aguilas in the Dominican Republic; Ile à Vache, Haiti; Errol Flynn Marina at Port Antonio, Jamaica; and a gala arrival at Marina Cienfuegos, Cuba on April 21st. For more information see ad on page 44. „Continued on next page Some of the classic and vintage yachts competing in the 2009 St. Maarten … St. Martin Classic Yacht Regatta Were on the Web!Caribbean Compasswww.caribbeancompass.comFREE On-line Compass On-Line € Advertisers Directory € Check It Outƒ Tell Your Friends! J. ROOSENS

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OCTOBER 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 19 „ Continued from previous page St. Croix Yacht Club Hospice Regatta Teams with SailProud Apparel Ellen Sanpere reports: SailProud Apparel will help the St. Croix Yacht Club Hospice Regatta go green in 2010,Ž Regatta Director Julie San Martin says. The two-year-old company will offer beautifully functional, sustainable, eco-friendly nautical apparel appealing to regatta participants, sponsors and visitors. SailProud founder and president, Phil Tepfer, explained some of the unique characteristics of his Transitional PerformanceŽ products, such as EcoWear Fabric: T-shirts constructed from recycled plastic bottles woven with certified organic cotton, which doesnt stick like polyester. It helps to maintain lower skin temperatures and also offers ultra-violet protection factors (UPF) in the 40 to 50 range. Signature CoolBlend polo shirts are made with Bamboo+, a sustainable resource that acts as an anti-mildew component in a soft fabric with moisture wicking and drying properties. They also have rash guards made from Bamboo+. SailProud is no stranger to charity events like the St. Croix Yacht Club Hospice Regatta. Ten percent of their profit is donated to the Heart of Sailing Foundation, benefiting developmentally disabled children. Additionally, Tepfer captains a boat for the organization, donates clothing and sponsors a local chapter of the Foundation. Participating teams in the St. Croix Yacht Club Hospice Regatta can order custom embroidery on the SailProud shirts in order to look extra special at the famous Cruzan Rum welcome party and throughout the event. The St. Croix Yacht Club Hospice Regatta will be held February 19th through 21st, 2010. Under the motto Inspired by Competition Enhanced with CompassionŽ, the organizers aim to raise funds and awareness for hospice care on St. Croix. Funds raised at the St. Croix Yacht Club Hospice Regatta will go to support the end-of-life medical needs of St. Croix residents, regardless of their ability to pay. Over one-third of the islands population is underinsured or has no health insurance coverage at all, according to Continuum Care, Inc., a Medicarecertified company providing hospice care in the USVI. The competition promises to be inspiring, with onedesign and dinghy racing in Teague Bay and CSA handicap racing in the Buck Island Channel. Cruisers, live-aboards, and heavy displacement vessels with simplified CSA ratings (to accommodate cubic feet of onboard refrigeration, drinkable canned goods and wine cellars!) are invited for Hospice Class racing along the beautiful north shore of St. Croix. For more information on SailProud clothing visit www. sailproud.com. For more information on the St. Croix Yacht Club Hospice Regatta visit www.stcroixregatta.com. New for 2010: Les Voiles de Saint Barth The 2010 Season will count a new sailing regatta in the Caribbean: Les Voiles de Saint Barth will be held April 6th through 11th. Organized by the Saint Barth Yacht Club and Comité Territorial du Tourisme, and with the support of Saint Barthélémys Collectivité, this event welcomes all maxi yachts, classics, racing yachts and multihulls. This event promises to be competitive, friendly and festive. In the idyllic setting of Saint Barths, residents, storekeepers and watersport professionals prepare to welcome boats and their crews, and look forward to helping them discover or rediscover this unique island. For more information visit www.lesvoilesdesaintbarth.com. FISHING LINES St. Lucian Anglers Fish in Cuba Bernard Johnson, Vice President of the St. Lucia Game Fishing Association, and Francis Compton, Past President, landed a huge Blue Marlin five miles off the coast of Havana, Cuba on July 31st, after an hour and a half of struggle on 50-pound test line. The fish was caught on the boat Marlin X out of the Hemingway Marina, skippered by Captain Lima who once fished with the legendary Fuentes, captain of Hemingways boat Pilar , which is preserved in the Hemingway Museum in Havana. Cubans and St. Lucians came together to celebrate this exciting moment, which was the highpoint for the anglers on a trip to Cuba organized by Rawle Harvey, President of the St. Lucia Cuba Humanistic Solidarity Association. Kids Catch Monster Tarpon in Trinidad Recently, when a 220-pound tarpon was caught by a fisherman near Gasparee Island in Trinidad, it sparked the interest of some young boys to hunt for a similar catch before the summer holidays came to an end. Fourteen-year-old Christian Valdez rounded up some friends to fish on his fathers boat, Hooker, on the night of August 30th. The fishing trip was a big success, as it resulted in Nicholas Knox catching a monster tarpon. All the fish caught on Hooker that night were released unharmed. None were weighed, as a result of the releases, so they will never know the weight of the fish. However, they did learn an important lesson about marine fish conservation. Thats the right way to go, guys „ leave some for the next angler to pursue! Mappapie Tops Trinidads Tarpon Thunder Tournament Steven Valdez reports: Trinidad will now be marketed to offshore anglers as a key destination for tarpon fishing, as a total of 162 tarpon were caught and released when 109 anglers fishing on 26 boats participated in the Trinidad & Tobago Game Fishing Association (TTGFA) 2009 Tourism Development Corporation (TDC) Tarpon Thunder Tournament. The tournament was hosted at the Lure Seafood Restaurant and Bar, Sweet Water Marina from August 14th through 16th. Michael De Freitas, fishing on Mappapie , won Best Angler. Brett Thompson on D Rog came second, with Jonathan de La Rosa on board Bobby Breen taking third. Michael De Freitas will represent Trinidad & Tobago in next years IGFA Inshore World Championships. Mappapie took the Best Boat category, with De Jep in second, Bobby Breen in third. Suzette Aboud and Jimmy Aboud, both on board Outcast, won Best Female and Best Junior angler respectively. The Best Foreign Angler was Mike Myatt of Barbie Doll Too . Mike, Chief Operating Officer of the International Game Fishing Association (IGFA), was invited by the TTGFA to experience the TDC Tarpon Thunder Tournament. Mike complimented the organizers and sponsors and said that he had fished all parts of the world and had never before seen the kinship that existed between competitors as in this tournament. He also said that the quantity and large size of tarpon that were released over the three-day tournament should make this fishing destination one that anglers from around the globe will want to come and experience. Left to right: Nicholas Knox, Mark Villain, Jacob Gordon, Diffy Charles, Christian Valdez and Wesley Scott take a quick pose before releasing the monster tarpon

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OCTOBER 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 20 Crossing the channels between Caribbean islands with a favorable tide will make your passage faster and more comfortable. The table below, courtesy Don Street, author of Streets Guides and compiler of Imray-Iolaire charts, which shows the time of the meridian passage (or zenith) of the moon for this and next month, will help you calculate the tides. Water, Don explains, generally tries to run toward the moon. The tide starts running to the east soon after moonrise, continues to run east until about an hour after the moon reaches its zenith (see TIME below) and then runs westward. From just after the moons setting to just after its nadir, the tide runs eastward; and from just after its nadir to soon after its rising, the tide runs westward. Times given are local. Note: the maximum tide is 3 or 4 days after the new and full moons. For more information, see Tides and CurrentsŽ on the back of all Imray Iolaire charts. Fair tides! October DATE TIME 1 2204 2 2246 3 2329 4 0000 5 0015 (full) 6 0103 7 0156 8 0253 9 0352 10 0452 11 0552 12 0649 13 0743 14 0834 15 0923 16 1012 17 1101 (new) 18 1150 19 1243 20 1334 21 1428 22 1521 23 1621 24 1702 25 1749 26 1833 27 1916 28 1958 29 2039 2122 30 2207 31 November DATE TIME 1 2255 2 2347 3 0000 (full) 4 0043 5 0143 6 0245 7 0346 8 0445 9 0539 10 0631 11 0720 12 0807 13 0854 14 0942 15 1012 16 1124 (new) 17 1217 18 1310 19 1403 20 1459 21 1542 22 1627 23 1711 24 1752 25 1833 26 1914 27 1957 28 2043 29 2133 30 2228 MERIDIAN PASSAGE OF THE MOONOCTOBER & NOVEMBER 2009 I know what youre thinking. Isnt it a little early for a Christmas article? But the truth is, as offensive as if may sound to most cruisers, if you are beginning to start to commence thinking about possibly going to the Queen City of the Spanish Main (and you should be), you might want to think outside the envelope and plan ahead. Ill tell you why. Christmas in The Big C is not a single holiday „ its a season. In fact, it is THE season for Cartagena. Everything about Christmas in Cartagena comes early and stays late. A quarter of all Halloween costumes are distinctively NoelŽ, the boughs of holly go up immediately after the candy is divided, and if you are not in the harbor by early November, odds are that you wont get a slip at either marina (Club Náutico or Club de Pesca) until February. Even the big day itself is celebrated on the 24th instead of the 25th. The festive attitude is enhanced by the entire month of November being given over to the Independence of Cartagena celebrations and the election of Miss Colombia, which is an event of biblical proportions. Twenty-some girls from every state in the nation are collectively paraded around the entire country, in front of TV cameras, and before a variety of panels where they are questioned, photographed, dressed up and down, and judged. After 30 days and almost as many locations and after absolutely every man, woman and child in Colombia knows absolutely everything about each candidate, from what she thinks about world peace to her favorite song, pet and shade of lipstick, the finalists are finally narrowed to one at the main event in Governors Plaza in Cartagena on the night of the citys Independence Day, November 11th. „Continued on next page CHRISTMAS IN CARTAGENA by Chuck Cherry Top: As Christmas approaches, manger scenes pop up in neighborhood parks Above: Youngsters pose in front of this historic port citys walls, decorated for the holidays with figures portraying indigenous cultures „ and pirates, of course

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OCTOBER 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 21 „ Continued from previous page This is a seriously major event with all the traditional costumes, celebrities, government officials, dueling army and navy bands, and thousands of spectators frolicking to disco music until well after dawn. A relative forecast of things to come. By the time the queen was crowned last year the marinas were full and the anchorage bursting at the seams. By November, the usual tourist attractions, such as museums, forts, old churches, beaches, bars and restaurants, are all spruced up and decorated for the season. They have to be dolled up considerably to compete because now comes the tremendous onslaught of special events. There are hosts of concerts (many of them free in the plazas) with local and international musicians giving performances in a variety of locales. The theaters put on special holiday shows, which extend into the weekdays. Several youth shows were among these last year, and there was even a three-day kind of lollapalooza mini-Woodstock thing for those so inclined. Several South American rock stars that I couldnt name came through Cartagena during December 2008. (A little farther afield in Bogotá, Elton John and Madonna made appearances, too.) If thats not enough to make your tempus fugit, you can buy tickets to one or both of the two full-blown film festivals. One is for made-for-TV films (they do love their tele-novelas ) and one is for the big screen, complete with real movie stars, glitter and paparazzi. All together, these gala events go on for more than two weeks. Of some interest to our cruising community was what appeared to be the entire joint US-Colombian Navy ensemble showing up in the harbor for two to three weeks ofƒ R n R? Some tours were available, and lots of photo ops. This was followed closely by the arrival of the good ship Gloria . The Gloria is a three-masted tall ship used for training and public relations. She remained parked at the party boat dock and was available for free public inspection and photos with the crew from nine to five. The city is decorated for the festive season in a major way, especially in the old town within the wall. Last year, in addition to a big light show at the clock tower entrance, the wall itself was adorned with larger-than-life puppets portraying the indiginos and various other ethnic cultures, and topped off with a pirate ship whose occupants were scaling the north wall against heavy resistance. And then comes the Christmas shopping. As in most South American cities, you can get nearly anything that you want or need on the street. During the season, the number of street vendors seems to double so that there is not one square inch of vacant sidewalk. Then add in all the shoppers and visitors and the streets become a living, breathing, undulating, high-spirited Christmas dragon. To the untrained eye it seems like recurring waves of people milling about in a random, happy fashion. There is, however, a small amount of method in their madness, as vendors of similar things tend to group together. A park near the marinas, for example, is taken over by more than a hundred small booths selling only toys. My personal favorite is the Christmas tree light section „ a couple of blocks almost exclusively devoted to decorative lighting. You will want to visit this area at night. And of course there are food and beer stalls. (You can buy the entire skin of a pig face for only two dollars, a real bargain for pork-rind lovers.) Beneath all the hustle and bustle of the masses of shoppers and sightseers is a kind of giggle that seems to well up and crescendo until about midnight. These people are happy, friendly and a little inebriated. So as not to forget the reason for the season there is a natural escalation of church services, religious events and fundraisers. Since there are several historical landmark churches that you will want to visit anyway, the extra decorations and events make it a good time to go. A personal favorite of mine, along these lines, is the neighborhood get-together every night for the nine days before Christmas. They have a little Bible study, Christmas-type refreshments and then practice a nativity play to be presented on Christmas Eve. The gathering place is usually the neighborhood park, some portion of which is transformed early on into a manger. I think you are expected to be there on all nine nights to be in the play, so this is taken rather seriously. On the 24th, after the play, the adults start drinking and the children wait anxiously for the midnight hour, at which time they open their gifts. The parents drink until dawn while the kids play with their new toys. If you are lucky enough not to have kids, you can roam the neighborhood or get in your car and drive down toward the old town and just pull over with friends and drink tequila or whiskey on the side of the road while singing Christmas carols. (This particular time-honored tradition is very similar to the celebration of the other 30 or 40 national holidays per year.) Last year on my morning runŽ (exaggeration) on Christmas Day I passed six or seven small hardy groups still singing, all of whom cheerfully invited me to stop for a shot of tequila. After Christmas the stores in Cartagena are closed and the streets are bare as people rest up for New Years. But the inland town festivals are in full swing „ this is the time to head for the mountains and watch Medallín, Calí and Manizales turn into theme parks for two weeks. Catch the first bullfight of the South American season in Calí and watch the carnival parades, rodeos and decorations of thousands of flowers as the mountain towns turn out with their favorite festival music to dance in the streets. You will have a little more than 30 days to sample the festivities in the different towns before returning to Cartagena for carnival in February (really Barranquilla is better, but Cartagena is close). Then you can relax and enjoy the off season, lolling on uncrowded beaches on weekdays, getting into your favourite restaurant without a reservation, and resting up to sail onwardƒ or to celebrate the next Christmas in Cartagena. Chuck and Monica live aboard the Cherry Bowl , cruising the Caribbean and enjoying talking about it. In her homeport for Christmas last year was the Colombian Navys sail-training ship, Gloria , offering tours and photo ops

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OCTOBER 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 22 Prologue Human history on Grand Cayman began as a battle of good versus evil. Good settlers and their oxen arrived prepared to forge a new existence of adventuresome happiness, but evil mosquitoes thwarted their efforts. Grand Cayman was Mosquito Global Headquarters. The mosquitoes were unprepared to welcome these newcomers as equals, but rather placed them at the lowly hierarchical status of snack . According to airport-available magazine literature, reports of settlers livestock being suffocated (to death) by the sheer number of mosquitoes crowding into their nostrils were commonŽ. One article claimed that mosquitoes could drop an animal (dead) from sheer plasma drainage. Nobody walked anywhere without their pail of smoke. Grand Cayman was an educational foreshadowing of what hell might be like. Until Dr. Marco Giglioli arrived, that is. Giglioli was a veteran of mosquito wars and had come to execute a full-scale genocide. He began by draining the swamps, which reduced the breeding ground of Evil significantly. A fish known to munch on larval youngsters was slipped into remaining waters. Giglioli conducted aerial spraying to subdue remote guerillas. The tides turned. Settlers poured in. To avenge their historical oppression humans built fancy roads, grocery stores and banks over ancient mosquito breeding grounds. These days the Mosquito Research & Control Unit (est. 1965) police what remains of the evil horde, and except during ambush hours people are free to be carefree. Cayman Days One without reservations has little choice but to accept whatever rental car is left on the lot. In our case this was an electric-blue Chevy Spark, an automobile so tiny it may or may not become the next official clown car at your local circus. We scooted off toward Morritts Resort, where my parents used their timeshare to book a carefree week on Grand Cayman. My girlfriend Yllithia and I muscled in on the good time. Since we arrived first, we thought itd be a good gesture to crank the air conditioning to the arctic level my Pops finds habitable and stock the fridge. The supermarket was our first real indicator that Grand Cayman was no ordinary Caribbean isle. Imported goods were stacked floor to ceiling, including things new and delicious to us: i.e. Joseph Banks Cassava Chips. Industrial refrigerators sent a frosty breeze wafting over ripe fruits and vegetables. Caucasian expats in aprons dished out product samples. Free food and nary a derelict in sight! Our room at Morritts was up three flights of stairs that guaranteed no weight gain on this vacation. Our balcony commanded a view of the Caribbean. Below was a swimming pool where tourists in wetsuits and dive gear sank with their instructor until their bottoms hit bottom. Look at your depth gauges, I thought, and behold the awesome thrill of three feet deep! It was dark when we went down to the clown car to pick up the parents. I opened the door, realized that I forgot something in the room, and went to get it. In the meantime every mosquito in Grand Cayman piled in for the ride. The next half hour was not a drive so much as struggle for survival. By the time the parents wedged in, the car had been reupholstered in bloody mosquito bits. It was traumatizing. For much time afterward, great fiery balls of fear and loathing rolled about within me. Mosquitoes consumed my subconscious. I took extravagant measures to avoid them: curfew at sunset; sleep in well past early morning; avoidance of shady corners and stagnant airƒ these measures worked, and the lingering effects of the mosquito nightmare faded. Grand Cayman is worth a tourists time for its water. Snorkel, scuba, swim, float „ just get in the water. Every day we drove to a new snorkel spot: Rum Point, Public Beach, Old Man Bay, Hell, Cemetery Beach, and many nameless sanctuaries found at the ends of pathways curving into the trees. A favorite locale of Pops and mine was Blowholes. We were on our way back to Morritts from a restaurant one evening and stopped to marvel at Blowholes. A good swell could send a plume of water rocketing up 20 or 30 feet (I didnt exactly have a tape measure handy). „Continued on next page ALL ASHOREƒMosquito History and a Grand Cayman Vacation Cross Paths by Ryan Weaver No mosquitoes here. In Grand Cayman, whatever you do, do it in the water! Marina Pointe-à-Pitre 97110 Phone: +590 590 907 137 Fax: +590 590 908 651 E-mail: fredmarine@wanadoo.frSERVICES Mechanics and Electricity Boat Maintenance Engine diagnosis Breakdown service 24/7 Haulout and hull sand blasting Equipment for rent Technical shop GOODS Genuine parts Yanmar & Tohatsu Basic spare parts (filters, impellers, belts)Filtration FLEETGUARD Anodes,Shaft bearings Electric parts, batteries Primers and Antifouling International Various lubricants FOR RENT High pressure cleaners 150/250bars Electrical tools Diverse hand tools Vacuum cleaner for water ScaffoldingTOHATSU LEAVE YOUR BOAT IN SKILLED HANDSMARINE MECHANICS (ALL MAKES) HAUL OUT 24h BREAKDOWN SERVICE € SALES € REPAIRS € MAINTENANCE FRED MARINE Guadeloupe F.W.I.

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OCTOBER 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 23 Chain & Rope Anchors & Fenders Electric Wire Marine Hoses Bilge Pumps Lubricants & Oils Stainless Fasteners Stainless Fittings VHF Radios Flares & Life Jackets Snorkeling Equipment Fishing Gear Antifouling Paint Paint Brushes Epoxy Resins Sanding Paper & Discs Hand & Power Tools Houseware & CookwareFOR YOUR MARINE HARDWARE, AND MORE Johnson Hardware Ltd. Rodney Bay, St. Lucia Tel: (758) 452 0299 Fax: (758) 452 0311 e-mail: hardware@candw.lc „ Continued from previous page Pops and I marched down and inched closer and closer to the hole. The rocks were slick, the blast tremendous. We returned drenched and happy to an unimpressed and somewhat embittered audience. East Ends relative seclusion suited us well, but the time came when Georgetown could no longer be avoided. Yllithia and I went scuba diving. Mom hopped on the Atlantis submarine because she wanted to see what 100 feet under the ocean looked like once in her life. I hadnt yet plunged to anywhere near 100 feet myself, but on our first dive I was surprised to hit 115 feet. It was an accident, really. Everybody emerged from his or her underwater journeys with bragging rights, for Grand Cayman is blessed with a healthy (lawfully protected) reef. The four of us could heretofore sit back and loaf without guilt because in every wish list box lay a check mark. Except maybe one. I thought I could ignore it, this little hike, but as the trip neared an end it nagged me with hideous persistency. Therell be too many mosquitoes,Ž everyone said. This was certainly true, for the Mastic Trail cut through the very capital of their refuge. We could see it from our back deck: the largest contiguous tract of old growth forest ( two million years old) left in the Caribbean stretching off unmolested, dense, muggy, dark and out of the jurisdiction of the Mosquito Research & Control Unit. But it was more than just the hike. The Mastic Trail was where one was most likely to spot the Cayman Island Parrot. Id never seen a wild parrot but certainly liked the idea of it. And this was an endemic wild parrot. If I didnt see it now I might never get another chance. Mastic TrailŽ might be my final whisper on the deathbedƒ. These and other melodramatic sentiments finally convinced Yllithia to accompany me. It was our last day. The sun was just rising. We had no bug spray. On the scale of Poor Planning this rated somewhere near a perfect 10. But as we started jogging nervously through the brush, kicking holes in the humidity and the spider webs, there ensued no ambush. Perhaps here where few people ventured the mosquitoes just rolled over, punched the snooze button and slept in. The Mastic Trail smells good. Its beautiful in a humble way. Its history inspires: blazed in the palm-blistering, tool-wielding age before tractors, the Mastic Trail provided a commercial route (shorter than the coastal circuit) from the North End to Bodden Town. Mahogany logs were sunk in the wetland to help delineate the path. Oxen and mules trudged along, shouldering wares, and were probably molested ceaselessly by mosquitoes. Yet as we hiked, only a few humongous loners flapped by like the skeletons of small birds and did not seem interested in challenging our trespass. When the dirt turned muddy we saw that we were surrounded by ancient swampland. I was satisfied. On the way back a raucous cry arose from some nearby fan palms. There sat three of Grand Caymans endemic parrots. They squawked at one another and at the weather and at politics, shattering the air with melodious soliloquy. One of them even flew away for our viewing pleasure. We stood in awe of them. Conclusion Despite the fact that the bloodthirsty mosquito is a persistent evil, Dr. Giglioli did succeed in shattering their once invincible ranks. Physically and emotionally . For although they still join forces for vicious night raids, one senses that they do so mostly as a consolation prize. At all other hours their influence is negligible. On Grand Cayman today water sports are mandatory and land adventures like the Mastic Trail ought not to be missed „ at least not for fear of mosquitoes. As a matter of fact, this is likely the last document thatll bother to mention them at all. For although the puny hunters will always exist on Grand Cayman, the significance of their existence has been reduced to an exercise for the improvement of hand-eye coordination. hdthAtltibibht ThesunwasjustrisingWe n C a p s o q c P s s t i i s m M l e o b t h C h i m Left: Yllithia and I went scuba diving on the healthy reef. I hit 115 feet. No mosquitoes there, either Below: When the dirt turned muddy we saw that we were surrounded by ancient swampland. I was satisfied

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OCTOBER 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 24 Simplicity. Reliability. Long life.Antigua Marine Power Services English Harbour Ph: 268-460-1850 Fx: 268-460-1851 mps@candw.ag Seagull Yacht Services English Harbour Ph: 268-460-3050 Fx: 268-460-1767 info@seagullyachtservices.com Bequia Caribbean Diesel Port Elizabeth Ph/Fx: 784-457-311 Grenada Grenada Marine St. David's Ph: 473-443-1667 Fx: 473-443-1668 info@grenadamarine.com Martinique Inboard Diesel Service Port of Case Pilote Ph: 596-596-787-196 Fx: 596-596-788-075 info@inboarddiesel.com St Croix St. Croix Marine Christiansted Ph: 340-773-0289 Fx: 340-778-8974 St. John Coral Bay Marine Coral Bay Ph: 340-776-6665 Fx: 340-776-6859 cbmarine@islands.vi St Lucia The Sail Loft Rodney Bay Marina Ph: 758-452-1222 Fx: 758-452-4333 iwwsl.ltd@candw.lc St Maarten Electec Cole Bay Ph: 599-544-2051 Fx: 599-544-3641 sales@electec.info St Thomas All Points Marine Compass Point Marina Ph: 340-775-9912 Fx: 340-779-2457 Trinidad Diesel Technology Services Siparta Ph: 868-649-2487 Fx: 868-649-9091 dieseltec@hotmail.com Dockyard Electrics Chaguaramas Ph: 868-634-4272 Fx: 868-634-4933 Richard@dockyardelectrics.com Tortola Cay Electronics Road Town, Tortola Ph: 284-494-2400 Fx: 284-494-5389 caybvi@candwbvi.net Marine Maintenance Services Road Town, Tortola Ph: 284-494-3494 Fx: 284-494-8491 timdabbs@surfbvi.com Parts & Power Road Town, Tortola Ph: 284-494-2830 Fx: 284-494-1584 partspwr@surfbvi.com MAX AND MARK ON BLUE BEYOND S/V Blue Beyond is a Moody 54 crewed by Max and Mark. This UK-flagged yacht came to the Caribbean with the 2008 ARC. Starting 20 some years ago with a 22-foot boat and four young children tied to the guard railsŽ, Max and Mark learned and honed their sailing skills in the often inhospitable waters of Englands eastern shore and Channel Islands. As the years passed, their sailing adventures took them down the European coast and to the Canary Islands. With the children approaching adulthood and the pressures of their healthcare-related business becoming more difficult to deal with as each year passed, Max and Mark began to focus on execution of a long-time dream, a cruising life. It took a year to find Blue Beyond and another year to make her ready. With the last of their brood finishing university this year, theyve made the dream a reality. They have the skills and experience to support their dream, as evidenced by the jury rigŽ repair made to compensate for the bolt that maintained the tension on their lower stays, which broke while they were underway on the ARC. When asked to compare sailing in Europe with the Caribbean, they replied, In Europe, especially in England, everything is marinas. The seas roll in off the Atlantic and boats need protected berths. In the Caribbean there are so many anchorages it provides far greater freedom. The islands are safe, as long as you take reasonable precautions. The islanders are friendly. We treat people respectfully and are treated respectfully in return. The weather is better and far more predictable than the North Atlantic. Sailing in the Caribbean is as close to true freedom as we have ever been.Ž Max loves to cook. She says, I like the idea of fewer choices in the islands. You dont need fifty brands or varieties to choose from. Here, if its in season, its available; if not, its not there. If the container came in, there is more to choose from; if not, thats okay. Its fun to be creative with whats available.Ž Max has written a book on cooking on a boat. Ill be watching for it in the future. The future for Blue Beyond includes going north to the East Coast of the US. Her crew wants to explore the area and, perhaps, fulfill a wish in Marks life. Mark is a qualified level-three rugby coach and misses the coaching. There is an apparent increase in interest in rugby in North America. Mark hopes to pick up a coaching position for a year or two while they explore. After North America, it will be back into the islands, over to Panama and into the Pacific, following Blue Beyonds name around the world. CRUISER PROFILES BY JOHN ROWLAND iligiEiththCibbthlidI The Moody 54 Blue Beyond (below) has carried Max and Mark (at right) to a life of freedom and creativity

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OCTOBER 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 25 PICK UP! Ahoy, Compass Readers! When in Grenada, pick up your free monthly copy of the Caribbean Compass at any of these locations (advertisers in this issue appear in bold ): Art Fabrik Budget Marine De Big Fish Essentials Mini-Market Grenada Marine Grenada Yacht Club Island View Island Water World Le Phare Bleu Marina Marine World Martins Marina McIntyre Bros Port Louis Marina Prickly Bay Marina Spice Island Marine Tikal Turbulence Sails True Blue Bay Marine Insurance The insurance business has changed. No longer can brokers talk of low rates. Rather, the honest broker can only say, Ill do my best to minimize your increase!Ž There is good insurance, there is cheap insurance, but there is no good cheap insurance. You never know how good your insurance is until you have a claim. Then, if the claim is denied or unsatisfactorily settled, it is too late.I have been in the insurance business 48 years, 44 with Lloyds, and my claims settlement record cannot be beat. Fax DM Street Iolaire Enterprises (353) 28 33927 or e-mail: streetiolaire@hotmail.com www.street-iolaire.com A WORLD CRUISE EDUCATIONby Norman FariaIf we didnt go now, we probably wont have another chance,Ž says Carmen Allera as she gets ready to put yet another batch of homemade bread dough into the oven on board the Pahi class catamaran moored in Barbados Carlisle Bay. More importantly,Ž she continues, with two young kids aged eleven and three-and-ahalf, it was a good time to take them as part of their education.Ž She and her husband Olivier bought the James Wharramdesigned 42-footer four years ago in Italy. They wanted a spacious, easily handled and everything that is softŽ cat with lots of deck space. Up until the Barbados visit, the plywood craft has lived up to expectations. They had previously owned or rented different boats, such as a Puma 26, on Lake Geneva. They have high praise for Wharram, the British designer who researched and learnt from the boat building and navigation skills of the Pacific Islanders for his range of catamaran designs. When we first bought the boat, people would laugh at us, saying we were going back to prehistoric days. But Wharrams designs are forgiving and comfortable, especially when you cruise with children. A lot of people dont understand Wharram,Ž says Carmen. The boat, which flies the Belgian flag, has held up well. Auxiliary power is two 15-horsepower four-stroke Suzukis. Unlike the case with most other Pahis, the Alleras had a special cockpit area tent specially made to keep out the sun and other harsh elements. There were other gear changes and improvements made in preparation for what they see as a threeyear sojourn. They expect to follow the basic route taken by Gerald and Elizabeth Weingarner, the previous owners (and builders of the boat) who circumnavigated in it from 2000 to 2005. The kids will be doing distance schooling. The family left Gibraltar in September 2007. They make good passages with the Pahi, averaging 150 miles a day with good wind and sea conditions. One of the excitements while in port, especially for the kids, is to take their Walker Bay rigid ten-foot sailing dinghy for spins around the anchorage. It is also a backup lifeboat. Saves outboard fuel, too, while heading back and forth to the dinghy dock. Baking the bread is a money saver as well as cutting back on additives. Its simple, Carmen says as she kneads some more dough on the main cockpit table, and always fresh!ŽAndre and Gertrude Buy Localby Norman FariaThe much-touted Buy LocalŽ mantra from governments regarding agricultural products and vehicles, for example, can also extend to boats. And Canadians Andre Demarais and Gertrude DAsjous did just that when in 2003 they were shopping around for a cruising boat to make an Atlantic/Caribbean circuit. They spoke with Compass while relaxing in Barbadoss Carlisle Bay anchorage in the steel sloop Orca Minor . It is a Chatan 33. Designed by Frenchman Karroff, it was built in Quebec province. Yes, we do quite a bit of boat building in Canada and even designing, though the design is an exception. Remember the Bluenose ? There is even a certain amount of Canadian-made yachting gear. Our self-steering rig, the Cape Horn brand by Yves Gelinas, for example, is Canadian made. Buying local is a good concept, but I must confess this is my first and last boat,Ž said Andre. The Montreal-based couple achieved what they set out to do and expect to sell the boat on their return to Canada. Their original idea of wanting a chalet in a marinaŽ seems to have changed somewhere along the line. The main aim of the voyage was twofold: to see and compare islands and to do some good hikingŽ. So far, its gone well. They left Quebec City on the St. Lawrence River where the boat was bought in 2003. They wintered in 2004 in the Thousand Islands. In July 2008 they departed Montreal and had an uneventful crossing to Cape Breton via the Azores and Madeira. Orca Minor is a flush deck version of a design influenced by Bernard Moitessiers boats. The firm made 24 of them. Andre, an electronics engineer, said he was very specific about what he wanted for the trip: a strong steel hull to survive a reef grounding, standing headroom in the cabin and a reliable engine (the boats original 1980 23-horsepower Volvo still putters along) were among the main desires. He knew what he wanted because he had visited the Caribbean area many times on other peoples boats. He also taught sailing in Quebec. The trick of succeeding on such a voyage is preparation, he maintains. And he feels the reason theyve had only minor difficulties is because of his looking into all the eventualitiesŽ before they set out. Gertrude, a retired physical therapist, says the trip has revealed a new meaning to the word exerciseŽ. DIFFERENT BOATSƒ ƒFOR DIFFERENT FOLKS Andre and Gertrude enjoying the good life in Barbados before heading back to Quebec Breads ready! A Wharram-designed Pahi cat is cruising home for the Allera familyNORMAN FARIA

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OCTOBER 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 26 G R E GRE N N A D I N E S ADINES S S A A I I L S & C A N V A S LS & CANVAS B E Q U I A BEQUIA Come in and see us for all your SAILS & CANVAS needs including CUSTOM-MADE stainless steel BIMINI & DODGER frames at competitive pricesLocated opposite G.Y.E. (northern side of Admiralty Bay) Tel (784) 457-3507 / 457-3527 (evenings) e-mail: gsails@vincysurf.com VHF Ch16/68 REPRESENTATIVE LULLEYS TACKLE SHOP FISHING & DIVING GEAR DUTY FREETEL: (784) 458-3420 FAX: (784) 458-3797 EMAIL: lulley@vincysurf.comOur stock, quality, price, know-how and fishing experience is unsurpassedVisit us for all your needsFRONT STREET BEQUIA WEST INDIESSERVING FISHERMEN AND YACHTSPEOPLE SINCE 1950Penn & Diawa Rods & Reels Mustad Hooks Anglers Lures Rigged & Unrigged Leaders Fresh Bait Foul Weather Gear Snorkeling & Diving Gear Courtesy Flags Collectable KnivesYOUR #1 CHOICE IN FISHING GEARWire, Floats, Nets, Twines, Ropes Carriacou and Petite Martinique surely have the largest remaining fleet of wooden sailing working boats left in the Eastern Caribbean. During a visit to Carriacou in April 2008 I went to Windward beach to watch a Carriacou sloop (eventually named Ocean Nomad ) being built by Alwyn Enoe. There were about eight men working on her, fitting planks, building cabin sides, caulking seams, and drilling for keel bolts. It was great to see these traditional skills in action. Walking farther along the mangrove-lined black sand beach and around a headland I saw, hauled onto the land, a large red Carriacou sloop hull. I was struck by her beautiful lines. The owner, Norman Roberts, told me that his father, Urbin, built her some 30 years previously and had traded her as a sailing cargo vessel, mainly between St. Barths and Carriacou. St. Barths was a free port in those days and one could legitimately trade in wines, spirits and cigarettes. Her name was Tradition and she was renowned as a fast and sea-kindly vessel. Norman was giving her a rebuild and preparing her for use as a motorized cargo vessel. Latterly, she had been fitted with an aluminium mast and Bermudian mainsail, much easier to handle than the original gaff rig. I climbed on board and saw that she had new pine decks, with massive white cedar deck beams and knees. She had also been replanked and refastened throughout, with a new stem fitted and the complete stern rebuilt. Norman had added a new deckhouse with four bunks and a wheelhouse. I visualized her with the deckhouse removed and her lovely sheer shown off to best advantage. Norman mentioned that his plans had changed; he would consider selling her. The price he mentioned would hardly cover the cost of the work he had done, but then thats the way of wooden boats. After a few weeks dithering I agreed to buy her. I had a vision of her, rigged as she was originally with a wooden mast, 33-foot boom and gaff mainsail. Sleepless nights followed as I realized what I had taken on. Where would I find deadeyes, mast hoops, galvanized rigging and so on „ an apparently endless list? Norman introduced me to Gordon Patrice, who had just re-decked Tradition . He agreed to take on the project of removing the big deckhouse, decking in the resulting hole and fitting a smaller coach roof. On Day One of the project, Gordon, Fitzroy McLaren and Leonard McLaren set to work dismantling the deckhouse with saws and chisels. Norman left with his cargo boat for St. Vincent, hopefully to return with more pitch pine planking for the deck. Templates for the new deck beams were made and I began making a mock-up of a smaller deckhouse out of ply. Gordon, Fitzroy and Leonard all had different ideas on what the shape of the new deckhouse should be, so my plan went out the window. The mock-up was modified until we had something in keeping with the vessel. It should provide good headroom below, access to the engine room and a couple of bunks aft. We were now ready for the new aft deck beams, which were to be of white cedar. Gordon had such trees on his land, but had been reluctant to cut them down earlier, being insistent that they should only be felled when the moon was well on the wane, even though this meant that the guys would lose a few days work. The theory is that timber cut at the wrong phase of the moon will be prone to rotting. All credit to the guys, it was more important to them that the job be done correctly than they earn an extra days pay. The gang eventually went into the bush with chainsaws to look for suitable trees, and by the next day rough shaping of the six-inch-square beams started with chainsaw, axes and adze. Carriacou sloops are built with a wooden trunking through which the wooden rudderstock passes. This is a massive lump of timber, but has an inherent problem in that it is impossible to keep the inside of the trunking and the rudderstock protected from worm and borers, and they also rot. Testimony to this was the number of discarded, worm-eaten rudder trunks lying around ashore. Traditions new rudder would be steel with a stainless stock passing through a cutlass bearing and stern gland. Very logical and possibly a great improvement, but we didnt know how the vessel would handle under sail with it. „Continued on next page THE TRADITION PROJECT P a r t O n e : Part One: T h e V i s i o n The Vision by Frank PearceI saw a large Carriacou sloop and visualized her with the deckhouse removed and her lovely sheer shown off to best advantageƒ Dismantling the big deckhouse, intended for cargo runs Adelaide B loading at the Carenage in St. Georges Grenada

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OCTOBER 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 27 Bequia Marina Open Monday to Saturday 8:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m.Look for the Big Blue Building . Water, Diesel, Ice, Bottled Water and Dockage available. The Yacht Club, Bequia Marina, Port Elizabeth, Bequia, St. Vincent & The Grenadines VHF 68, Telephone 784-457-3361 CREW VACANCIES!email: crew@tradewindscruiseclub.comTradeWinds Cruise Club operate a fleet of catamarans across six destinations in the Caribbean. We are the fastest growing charter company, operating TERM CHARTERS, all inclusive, 7 days. We are looking for crew, mainly teams in the form of a Captain and a Chef/Hostess. We prefer couples that are married OR have been living together for at least a year. The nature of the job is such that the better the understanding and teamwork between Captain and Chef the more successful your charters will be. Requirements: Captain with a Skippers licence. Chef/Hostess with a basic understanding of cooking. Dive master/ instructor for either the Captain and/or Chef is a plus. We offer full training onsite in the Caribbean. This is a FUN job with great earning potential. If you are willing to work hard and have a positive disposition to life this could be your DREAM job. Anyone with an interest is welcome to apply. If you would like more information about this job or send your CV to us, please use this email address: crew@tradewindscruiseclub.comor by mail to: Bequia Marina, P.O.Box 194BQ, Port Elizabeth, Bequia, St Vincent & the Grenadines Tel. St Vincent +784 457 3407 Tel. St Maarten +599 5510550 „ Continued from previous page Unfortunately, Norman had been unable to buy adequate pitch pine planking for the decks in St. Vincent, so Fitzroy and I took the ferry to Grenada where we were promised good timber. We were also on a mission to find a 60-foot mast. I had heard that there were long telegraph poles to be found in Grenada and I pleaded with Grenlec to sell me one, which they kindly agreed to do. Very accommodating of them, as with hurricane season approaching, they might have needed all the poles they could get. From a huge pile of the great poles, we selected one that looked straight and sound and marked it. It was 60 feet long with a 14-inch diameter at the base and weighing goodness knows what. The Adelaide B , a wooden inter-island trading vessel, was leaving for Carriacou the next day from the Carenage in St. Georges. I asked Buly, the skipper/ owner, how much it would cost to ship the mast up to Carriacou. A hundred and fifty EC,Ž he told me. No crane was available, so the crew of the Adelaide B hoisted the pole on board from the truck using the ships block and tackles; she is still rigged and uses sail. I stayed away as the prospect of lifting such a weight with their gear was scary. But the next Saturday morning, there was the pole in Hillsborough, sticking out over the bow of the Adelaide B like a huge bowsprit. Unfortunately the mast was needed at Windward, on the other side of the island, and it was unlikely that it could be transported along the winding and hilly roads. Buly was not fazed. Okay, we come up outside de Windward reef and drop it over de reef, and you tow it to Windward.Ž No,Ž I said, Youll be on a lee shore and its getting dark. Take it to Petite Martinique; well tow it from there.Ž So they did (how they got it overboard Ill never know, but we did agree that Buly should get twice his original quote for the shipping), and Fitzroy went over in his motorboat in the early hours on Sunday and towed it to Windward beach. The deck beams were all in place and work commenced fairing them to ensure an even camber to the decks. Gordon, on his own initiative, had put in carlines to make a lazarette hatch in the back of the aft deck. I had hoped for a clear aft deck, but the hatch makes for a huge under-deck locker and was the right thing to do. Gordon had also modified my plans for the shape of the new deckhouse by running the carlines in line with the bulwarks and not square with the front of the deckhouse, which meant that the deckhouse would be four inches narrower at the aft end than at the front. He said very firmly, Thats the way we do it, Frank.Ž A good thing too, as the final result gives a clearer deck space at the sides of the deckhouse and looks just right. The shipwrights were short of one deck beam. Rather than cut down another tree, they found a chunk of greenheart timber lying in the mangroves. It had been the keel of a wrecked sloop. This was a piece of very hard wood, about eight inches by four inches thick. They dragged it to our work area and Fitzroy set about shaping it. He stood on the timber, using an adze between his spread-apart bare feet. He carved out the shape of the beam with a camber to match the others, and still has a complete set of toes. Prices for sails were coming in and I was very pleased to get an acceptable quote from Turbulence Sails in Grenada, who had built sails for similar Carriacou sloops in the past. While in Grenada, Id also seen a notice on a for saleŽ board, offering some sails. It turned out that they came from Moonshine , a very fine double-ended Fife ketch that met her demise in Hurricane Ivan. A staysail and two Yankee jibs, just what Tradition needed „ except now shed certainly need a bowsprit! Carriacou sloops, with their long booms, do carry a lot of weather helm, and while a bowsprit may not be practical when they load in restricted berths, it would surely balance the rig better, and it looked right when I did a scale drawing. I still had to find galvanized rigging wire, as I really wanted to eliminate stainless, not just for rigging, but for fittings. If the aim was to complete Tradition as she was when she was built in about 1979, and not produce a hybrid, then I needed to keep things as they were. Exceptions would be the engine and the sail material. At this point, tropical waves started to cross the islands. This raised another issue: If we were going to be rained offŽ for days, what would I do about wages? I suggested to the guys that Id pay them half pay for rain offŽ days. Why do you want to do that, Frank?Ž I began to realize how un-avaricious people are in Carriacou, and it took some getting used to after the more modernŽ world up-island. Many Carriacou shipwrights are fairly self-sufficient even without the boatbuilding; they often have some land to grow provisions and raise some livestock, and can get by quite well without the likes of me. For these men, working on a sloop that is to be a yachtŽ was not really a priority „ the working boats must come first. At one time, during a period of windy weather when the fishing boats were reluctant to go out, they took the time to make repairs. Some six boats, all between 30 and 50 feet, were hauled for repair. One boats bottom was in poor condition. She was hauled on the Monday, bottom planking off on Tuesday, new keel bolts fitted and planked up by the end of the week, caulked and ready to launch the following week, with only two shipwrights on the job. As for me, faced with the task of completing Tradition , it was too easy to take for granted the beauty of where we were working, until maybe a friend came along to see the project. Then I saw this somewhat huge vessel of mine, hauled up on the black sand, surrounded by palm trees and mangroves, propped up on wooden rum barrels, and the wonderful aspect looking seaward over the calm waters inside the Windward reef, then across the glorious colour of the sea to the islands of Petite Martinique and Petit St. Vincent. Next month, Part Two: Boom, Bowsprit and Deckhouse. Patrice and McLaren at work. Traditions new deck beams and the carlines for a smaller deckhouse are in place

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OCTOBER 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 28 FOR the past 48 years I have listened to stories of boats heading south from the East Coast of the United States to the Caribbean. Some were such idyllic trips that the crew never once put on their foul weather gear. Some trips were a bit bouncy. And other times, boats ran into major storms. Some of these latter trips resulted in damage or disaster, losing boats or even crews. Many years ago I quit counting when my 39th friend or acquaintance was lost while doing this trip. Obviously this is not a passage to be lightly undertaken. Your boat and crew must be prepared to face heavy weather. Before you go out and put your boat to the test, make some practice runs. In your home waters when a good hard blow comes through, take your boat out and put the bricks to herŽ. Ascertain any deficiencies in both boat and crew. Take your boat back in, rectify the deficiencies, then go out in a second blow. This time you will be much better prepared than you were the first time. Then go home again and rectify any deficiencies that are still not corrected. And so on. Then, when you eventually head offshore and run into a bad blow, both the crew and boat will have been through similar experiences before, so no major problems should be experienced. Unfortunately, many recreational sailors fail to follow this advice; instead, they take off from the East Coast and run into their first truly bad weather at sea. The crew becomes petrified. When they arrive in St. Thomas, the boat is put on the market „ and there ends their dream of an idyllic winter cruise in the Caribbean. JUMPING-OFF POINTS Points from Newport to New York I strongly advise NOT heading directly offshore from this area (i.e. taking Routes I, II or III on the map). Its much better to go coastwise down to Little Creek, Virginia, near Norfolk at the mouth of the Chesapeake Bay or, if your boat will pass under the 65-foot bridge south of Norfolk on the ICW, farther on to Morehead City/Beaufort. I say this because the autumn weather window for heading south is very small. If you leave in October or early November, there is too much danger of encountering a late-season hurricane. The NOAA hurricane book (available from National Climatic Data Center, Federal Building, 151 Patton Avenue, Asheville, NC 28801-5001, USA) shows that in the last 25 years there have been more hurricanes in late October and early November than there had been in the previous hundred years. Unfortunately, as each week goes by in November the weather on the East Coast of the States becomes more and more unstable, to the point that by the end of November the weather forecasts are only good for 24 to 36 hours. „Continued on next page SAILING DIRECTIONS BY DON STREET Coming to the Caribbean from the US East Coast

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B & C FUELS ENTERPRISE Petite Martinique The best fuel dock in the Grenadines for: FUEL € OIL € WATER € ICE Cheapest prices in the Grenadines Unobstructed dock in calm water 16-18 feet of water alongside Suitable for Large Power Yachts Easily approached from Carriacou, Union I., Palm I. & PSV Contact: Glenn Clement or Reynold Belmar Tel/Fax: (473) 443-9110 email: golfsierra@hotmail.com TYRREL BAY YACHT HAULOUT CARRIACOU New environmentally friendly haulout 50-ton hoist, 18ft beam, 8ft draft Water Do it yourself or labour available Mini Marina Chandlery VHF: 16 tbyh@usa.net Tel/Fax: 473.443.8175 „ Continued from previous page Boats can take off from the northeast coast of the States in the face of a northwester, with glorious sailing, clear visibility and the wind aft of the beam, but all too often the northwester then swings around to north and finally northeast. A 25 to 30-knot (and sometimes more) northeaster blowing against a two or three-knot current in the Gulf Stream produces sea conditions varying from dangerous to disastrous. Unless you have a yacht that can continually knock off nine knots or more, your chances are minimal of leaving the northeast coast of the United States and getting across the Gulf Stream on a weather window when the weather predictions are only good for 24 to 48 hours. Thus, if you are departing from Newport, I recommend heading down the coast, through Long Island Sound. If a blow comes through, there are plenty of places to stop. If you pick up the beginning of the fair tide at South Norwalk, Connecticut, and maintain a six-knot speed through the water, you can carry that tide all the way down Long Island Sound through Hellsgate, New York Harbour, out through Sandy Hook and on down the New Jersey shore. This is where a northwester coming offshore gives a glorious sail with smooth water; it will really blow you on your way. A good eye must be kept on the weather, because from New York Harbour to the mouth of the Delaware River there are really no reliable harbours. Similarly, from the mouth of the Delaware to the Chesapeake Bay there are no harbours. However, if you have maintained six knots over the bottom as you approach the mouth of the Delaware, take a look. If the weather is going around to the south and you dont like the look of it, you can head up the Delaware on a fair tide, pass through the Chesapeake & Delaware Canal, and still pick up a fair tide at the northern end of the Chesapeake Bay. Once in the Chesapeake you can push on south to Little Creek, Virginia, at the mouth of the bay, or stop in Annapolis or one of the wonderful little harbours in the Chesapeake. If the weather permits, however, when you reach the mouth of the Delaware you can continue offshore to Little Creek. If you can fit under the bridge south of Norfolk, there is only one way to go south: continue through the ICW to the Morehead City/Beaufort area. This is a trip of three days, but if you have the time you can easily spend a week to ten days doing some wonderful cruising. Morehead City/Beaufort At Morehead City/Beaufort, wait for a good clear northwester to blow through. You are far enough south so that although it may be cold, you will not have to contend with ice, sleet or snow. If you leave at the top of the tide, carry the tide down to Cape Lookout. A couple of hours after you leave Cape Lookout you will be in the Gulf Stream, the northwester will blast you across, and by the time the northwester swings around to the north you will be clear of the Stream. You can then set a course east-southeast and sail that course until the butter meltsŽ. The northwester will swing north, then to northeast. If you are lucky the northeaster will continue right on down to where you pick up the Trades. Many boats in the 40-foot size range have done this route (Route IV on the map) from Morehead City/Beaufort to St. Thomas in seven days. Work your way east-southeast, until you reach the longitude of 68° to 70°W, as it must be remembered that in November and early December the Trades are still likely to be southeast or east-southeast, rather than east or northeast. This means if you have not worked your way well east, you will end up hard on the wind for the last few days of your trip if you are heading for St. Thomas. With a favorable weather forecast, you can leave from Morehead City/Beaufort at any time from early November right up until about December first. However, if you have not left by the beginning of December, you should either delay your trip until the following year, or follow the ICW all the way down to Jacksonville or Fort Lauderdale, Florida. In December it is not advisable to try to depart for the Caribbean from Charleston (Route V on the map) or the ports south of Charleston, as in that area the Gulf Stream is well off shore. The problem of getting across the Stream here is roughly the same as trying to get across the Stream from the northeast coast of the States. Norfolk/Little Creek If your boat will not fit under the 65-foot bridge on the waterway near Norfolk, wait in Little Creek until you obtain a favourable weather report. Then head east-southeast and try to get across the Gulf Stream as fast as you possibly can. If the wind goes light, turn on the mill and motor or motorsail. Dont worry about running out of fuel „ once you are across the Stream and south of the gale area, if you are out of fuel and get becalmed it is just a pain in the neck and a delay. But if you dont make it across the Stream within your weather window, you can end up in disastrous circumstances. There is not enough space here to list the horror stories. Again, your course is east-southeast until the butter melts. Work your way eastward to longitude 68° to 70°W, before heading directly to St. Thomas. The weather window from Little Creek is basically the month of November. Come December, forget about it and wait until next year. Miami/Fort Lauderdale If you dont pick your weather carefully when sailing from the Miami/Fort Lauderdale area to the Virgins you face a dead beat to windward for 1,200 miles „ a miserable trip. The proper way to get from the Miami/Fort Lauderdale area to St. Thomas is to go over to Grand Bahama and wait there until a northwest front is predicted. You can take off on the face of a northwest front: it may blow hard, but the wind will be coming off the land and you will have a smooth sea. Leave the northeast Providence Channel and head east for as long as you can. (See Route VII on map.) Once the norther dies out and the Trades fill in, fall off on port tack and see where you end up. Some boats have been very lucky and have laid St. Thomas in one tack. Others fetch the eastern end of Puerto Rico, and some have only laid the western end of Puerto Rico. If you do this you can duck into Mayaguez, take a rest, recuperate and restock, then head south and east along the south coast of Puerto Rico. Make sure you have on board a copy of Streets Guide: Puerto Rico, Spanish, US and British Virgin Islands , which describes this area in detail, complete with sailing instructions. The one problem with taking this route is that you may enjoy the south coast of Puerto Rico and the Spanish Virgin Islands so much you never get to the rest of the Eastern Caribbean! Re: hopping along the numerous stepping stones on Bruce Van Sants thornless path to windwardŽ from Florida to the Virgins, or Route VI on the map, you must have unlimited time and patience to wait for all those individual weather windows. You may spend so much time waiting for weather that by the time you arrive in St. Thomas, the hurricane season is approaching again and it will be a case of either returning to the States, or quickly getting to Grenada, Trinidad or Venezuela to be south of the hurricane zone! CHARTS I advise using the US NOAA charts appropriate to your routing, and Imray-Iolaire charts of the Caribbean depending on your landfall. (Check ImrayIolaire chart catalogue at any major US chart supplier.) If you are going via Bermuda, use ImrayIolaire chart E5: Bermuda; plans St. Georges, Hamilton, dockyard marina. Visit Don Streets website, www.street-iolaire.com. A new edition of his Transatlantic and Atlantic Islands Guide is due to be published soon. In December it is not advisable to try to depart for the Caribbean from Charleston or the ports south of Charleston, as in that area the Gulf Stream is well off shore OCTOBER 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 29

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OCTOBER 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 30 „ Continued from page 11 ...Caribbean Eco-NewsThe IWC is scheduled to hold at least three more meetings of the Working Groups before next years 62nd annual meeting in Morocco. Hogarth said that deliberations leading to the conference in Morocco were going to be crucial and we therefore need the involvement of the small developing countries.Ž It was reported that both Japan and the United States had contributed to a special fund of up to US$100,000 to help finance the presence of the Eastern Caribbean countries at three meetings in 2008-09, including sessions in Rome and Florida. Also at the IWCs 2009 meeting, Anthony Liverpool of Antigua was elected vicechairman, the first person from the Caribbean to be elected to that position. For the past five years Liverpool has been Antigua & Barbudas IWC Commissioner and also Antigua & Barbudas non-resident Ambassador to Japan. He is a communications specialist with a Masters degree in NGO management awarded by the London School of Economics. Liverpool said, The Commission is facing a serious challenge to find a compromise between the deeply entrenched positions of those who oppose whaling and the countries which are for sustainable use of the worlds marine resources. We in the Caribbean favor the sustainable use. But there must be a compromise so that the organization can go forward.Ž The new IWC Chairman is a Chilean diplomat, Cristian Maquieira. Caribbean Natural Resource Institute Wins MacArthur Award The Caribbean Natural Resource Institute, CANARI, is among eight nonprofit organizations from five countries that on June 11th received this years MacArthur Award for Creative and Effective Institutions. For the past 30 years CANARI has championed participation in the cause of biodiversity conservation, built alliances among the islands and organizations of the Caribbean region and increased awareness of the coastal environment and the need to conserve it. In addition, the organization has helped to protect watersheds, ensured a role for civil society in managing threatened natural resources, designed innovative training programmes and provided useful insights into community-based tourism, sustainable fisheries and forestry. It is currently playing a leading role in helping government and civil society in the Caribbean deal effectively with the climate change crisis the region faces. It also encourages the regions efforts to resolve conflicts between environmental and development goals. Executive Director of CANARI, Sarah McIntosh, told the regional media organization Panos Caribbean (panoscaribbean.org) that the award of US$350,000 would contribute greatly to their strategic development and help to position them for continued long-term growth and impact. OECS Launches Biodiversity Awareness Campaign The Organization of Eastern Caribbean States (OECS) launched its Protecting the Eastern Caribbean Regions Biodiversity Project in July. The goal of the project, known as PERB, is to raise awareness of the need to protect ecological systems as a critical issue in the Eastern Caribbeans development, especially when there are competing interests at odds with conservation and preservation. The OECS islands form the easternmost boundary of the Caribbean region and these islands are rich in biodiversity, including terrestrial systems such as coastal and rain forests, and marine systems such as mangrove wetlands, seagrass beds and coral reefs. However, there are signs of degradation of these fragile systems and their associated species and environmental services are at risk. This degradation is, for the most part, associated with poorly planned developments, population growth, unsustainable agricultural and tourism activities, pollution and overexploitation of natural resources. The OECS member states „ Anguilla, Antigua & Barbuda, the British Virgin Islands, Dominica, Grenada, Montserrat, St. Lucia, St. Kitts & Nevis, and St. Vincent & the Grenadines „ have expressed their commitment to the conservation and sustainable use of biodiversity, recognizing its importance to economic growth and the sub-regions way of life. One Tiny Islet, 350 Kilos of Trash On September 6th, members of Fundación La Tortuga and other volunteers collected some 350 kilos of trash from the tiny island of Quírica located in Venezuelas Mochima National Park. The most common items collected were plastic soft-drink bottles. An empty two-litre bottle weighs about 50 grams. Every week, thousands of these bottles and other plastic items are disposed of irresponsibly by boaters and beach-goers, or are washed from other waterways into the sea by heavy rains, causing an unsightly mess and endangering coastal and marine wildlife. FLT reminds us all to use less plastic, and when we do to recycle it or dispose of it properly. PRODUCT POSTINGSEco-Friendly Mooring The EzyRider Mooring and Offset Anchor System is an environmentally friendly, lowimpact, high-strength system for swing moorings. Harnessing naturally occurring buoyancy to dissipate vessel energy, this mooring method offers safety and comfort while meeting stringent environmental considerations. With few moving parts the EzyRider provides an exceptionally safe and low maintenance mooring system. The unique self-centering action reduces the total amount of required swing room by up to 50 percent. No moving parts contact the seabed, allowing the mooring to be laid in environmentally sensitive areas containing seagrass or coral reef. For more information, visit www.ezyridermooring.com. Innovative Ultrasonic Antifouling Ultrasonic Antifouling Ltd has announced an unusual way to protect a boat from fouling. The Ultra System uses sound waves to destroy algae and therefore prevent weed and barnacle growth. The manufacturers say that The Ultra System is a low cost, highly effective and completely pollutant-free method that does away with the chore of the annual painting of the boats bottom. Ultrasonic Antifouling Ltd currently offers two models: the Ultra 10, for boats up to 10 metres, and the Ultra 20 for boats up to 20 metres. Each system consists of a control box and either one (Ultra 10) or two transducers (Ultra 20) and can offer a bespoke system design facility for more complex installations, for example, superyachts or trimarans. The transducers are bonded to the inside of the boats hull. The system covers all of the hull and underwater gear. Careful placement of the transducers is the key to success and a full explanation of the installation is supplied. The system runs from 12, 24 or 230 Volts and draws up to one Amp. The control box sends a variety of pulsed ultrasonic signals to the transducers, which, in turn, emit a series of low power, high frequency sound waves that are virtually inaudible to the human ear. They create a wall of moving water molecules over the whole surface of the submerged hull, creating a micro-environment that kills algae. The science is in the creation of the correct frequencies and the harmonics that are set up as a result. Managing Director David Sothcott says, Until now, a few people have had halfhearted attempts at the ultrasonic approach to the business of antifouling, but nobody has really indicated any commitment or belief. These previous attempts have been analogue systems, using up to 40 percent more power than our digital system, and when power is at such a premium in the boating world, this is a big issue. Because a digital system can use more differing frequencies together, its range can destroy more algae types and it produces a much clearer ultrasonic sound wave. As technology advances, and because we use a re-programmable chip, we can modify the frequencies to suit the conditions, if and when they change.Ž For more information visit www.ultrasonic-antifouling.com. Need a Drink, Quick? Accon Marines sleek Quick Release Drink Holders easily snap into the companys quick release bases, keeping beverages from spilling. Constructed from either marine-grade 316 stainless steel or aluminum, these Drink Holders can be easily removed with the push of a button. When needed again, they simply snap back into place. Accons 401 Series is available in single or double styles and fits standard size cups. Featuring a surface mount, no difficult measuring or cutouts are required for installation. Only two #10 screws are needed. For more information visit www.acconmarine.com. Dont Get Bugged, Lighten Up Great for the cockpit or beach barbecues, the ThermaCELL Patio Lantern is both a powerful insect repellent device and a stylish outdoor lantern, with both functions being usable separately or together. Providing a 15 by 15-foot mosquito-free zone, it is 98 percent effective (tested and used by the US Department of Defense), making it the most effective insect repellent device on the market. It is also non-toxic, safe and non-intrusive, being DEET-free, silent, portable and odor free. ThermaCELL utilizes allethrin, an artificial version of a natural insecticide found in chrysanthemum flowers. The lantern has a frosted globe and offers two illumination settings. The butane cartridge that powers the mosquito repellent provides 12 hours of power and is located on the interior for aesthetics and ease-of-use. The light switch is located on the base of the lantern and is powered by two AA batteries. For more information visit www.mosquitorepellent.com. Imray Apps for Apple iPhones Imray and software developer Tucabo have launched the first of a series of applications to run on the Apple iPhone providing quick reference information for sailing crews. Now available are Marine Rules and Signals and Tides Planner. Coming soon are Racing Rules (a jointly produced App with the RYA) and Navigation Theory. Other Apps are in the pipeline and will cover topics including meteorology and first aid. Following this launch, Imray plans to offer a full chart navigation program for the iPhone, all based on the successful Imray Digital Chart system, which also runs on PC computers. Imray Apps are available from www.apple.com/uk/iphone/appstore. For the past 30 years, CANARI has increased awareness of unique coastal environments like this one in Dominica

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OCTOBER 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 31 Scientists of the nineteenth century were fascinated with coral reefs. No one was really sure how coral reefs were formed, especially the ringed atolls of the Pacific. British geologist Charles Lyell put forward a theory that coral polyps were growing upwards from around the rims of extinct submarine volcanoes. As the coral grew to the surface, sand would accumulate on the top and form circular islands with deep lagoons in the centre. When Charles Darwin made his round-the world voyage on HMS Beagle in the early part of the 1800s, he studied the reefs that he saw and came to a different conclusion about how atolls were formed. His theory was that yes, coral does continue to grow upwards from its base of coral skeletal remains. However, Darwin suggested that, at the same time, landmasses that were surrounded by fringing coral reefs could gradually subside and sink into the sea. As the land went downwards, the gap between the fringing reef and the coastline became larger. The sea would appear to be rising up onto the land. The fringing reef becomes a barrier reef. If the land mass were an island, the barrier reef would be approximately circular. Eventually, the land mass would sink below the surface of the sea and all that would be left would be the coral reef around it, a perfect atoll. Mr. Lyell was not jealous of Darwin; in fact, he was so pleased that Darwin had formulated this new and exciting theory that he jumped for joy when he heard of it. Over a hundred years later Darwins theory was proved right when geological core samples taken when drilling in the Pacific islands showed the earth movements that he had suggested. ELAINE OLLIVIERRE 2008 © PROUDLY SPONSORED BY PETIT ST. VINCENT RESORT Hello! My name is Dolly and my home is in the sea.DOLLYS DEEP SECRETSby Elaine Ollivierre The kids across the Caribbean were out trick or treating on October 31st and in a pretty, mountainous southern island a happy group was on its way, led by 12-yearold Jake. But Jake thought that going from door to door was too tame so he had a plan to liven things up. He grumbled, I want a little adventure for a change, so I think we should challenge the jumbies in that old plantation house and give THEM a trick or two!Ž Five-year-old Mags, who didnt like skeleton costumes, had on her fairy queen dress, a crown of diamonds on her head and in her hand she carried a wand, tipped with a glitter-covered star, and she didnt want to go TRICKING JUMBIES! The other girls were frightened of jumbies, too, and said so. Mags brother Micky and some of the older boys agreed with Jake, but there was one problem: spooks were meant to ride out at midnight and they couldnt wait that long. Jumbies will leap out at you anytime once its dark, so thats not a problem at all,Ž countered Jake. But we need torches and stuff,Ž was the next complaint, but Jake had come prepared. Ive got candles and matches, so lets go.Ž As Jake had all the answers and the older boys were urging, Lets go! Lets go!Ž the group, including the hesitant girls, followed Jake around the corner and along a lane until they came to the old plantation house. It had once been the home of a wealthy plantation owner but he had gone away and no one knew what had become of him and his family. So, in time the town had crept up almost to the front door and the once fine plantation house with a lovely garden was now just a dilapidated old ruin that should have been pulled down years ago. The group arrived at the boarded-up front door. Jake and the boys pulled away the rotten boards and stood back. Jake lit the candles, handed them out and ordered, All the skeletons, the hollow ghosts, the witches, anyone in a proper Halloween costume come and stand with me. We will call out the jumbies.Ž Jake then pushed open the old doors that creaked and groaned on their rusting hinges and led the way across the threshold. All the inside walls had fallen in, the upper floor had been completely eaten by termites and the floor was filthy, but Jake stepped over the worst of it, looked back at his reluctant followers, turned again and with his arms stretched wide, shouted: You jumbies, I challenge you to rise from the dark pits of hell and do battle with the forces of good. Show yourselves or forever lie doomed to eternal hell and damnation.Ž Jake thought this was a pretty good challenge and as he knew that jumbies could take any form they wished, he wondered what would appear. The first thing that happened, much to every ones terror, was that a gust of wind came roaring through the door, banging it shut and blowing all the candles out. The girls screamed and clung to each other while Jake struggled to relight his candle, but the matches wouldnt strike and then the candle was knocked from his hand. Someone open the door!Ž Jake shouted. In the pitch black, some boys scrabbled to find the door and pulled on it, but the door was jammed fast. The darkness didnt last for long as it was broken by eerie green lights that began to waver round the walls. Gradually the green lights grew stronger and started to take form, first a leg, then a head, then an arm. The lights were struggling now, groaning, trying to shape themselves into entire bodies. The children wanted to run but they were paralyzed with fear. The bodies pulled grotesquely this way and that until faces emerged and they were the faces of death with gleaming purple eyes and mouths spitting fiery red blood. The jumbies were giving the CHILDREN the tricks and noiselessly chuckled to themselves. The death figures at last came together with sharp hipbones and vaporous, shrouded legs. They rested for a moment and then stretched out their arms and from their bent fingers grew saber-sharp talons. The vaporous legs pushed against the walls and the deadŽ jumbies put back their heads and howled. They clawed at the old beams high above, sharpening their claws like leopards; they flew about the cavernous chamber, shrieking, dancing, and screaming fit to wake the real dead. Then the nightmare jumbie ghouls turned their glittering eyes upon the children and from their dark mouths, great fangs grew. A horrible stench of rotting flesh filled the chamber and it stung the nostrils of the children who were so frightened they couldnt move a muscle. The jumbies were having fun and were in no hurry to let the children go. They began a dance towards their victims, clashing their fanged jaws together, menacing them with their curved claws, advancing and retreating, breathing out cold poisonous vapors as they screamed and howled. Then the jumbie ghouls became tired of the game and they advanced now with death glowing in their burning eyes. They stretched out their taloned arms, they opened wide their fanged mouths, slobbering an acid saliva like mad sharks. Micky, Mags brother who had promised his mother to take good care of his little sister, wasnt about to give in without a struggle, but what could he do? Countermagic might work, so he urged, Mags, use your wand, perhaps its a magic wand!Ž But Mags was too small to try it, her eyes bulged and her fingers gripped the wand and that was it. So Micky grabbed his little sister and put his hand over hers and shouted in her ear. Mags, Ill help you wave the wand, DO IT!Ž Little Mags, not used to Micky shouting at her, raised her arm with his and from the glitter-covered star, streams of tiny stars spun out in all directions. The stars entered the mouths of the jumbie ghouls and they shrieked with agony as the sharp tips pierced their raw throats. The stars spun in dizzying spirals, splitting the jumbie ghouls into shuddering shards of dying light, their cries and sobs and moans ebbing and flowing as the jumbies fought to win the game. The magic wand had worked and before its light could fade away the children burst into life, rushed at the door, yanked it open and ran as fast as their legs would carry them, up the shadowy lane, round the corner and into the bright lights of the street lamps. Only then did they stop to take a breath. Of course no one would dare tell their parents that JUMBIE GHOULS had caught them, because they had been told to stay away from the old plantation house ruin. But it was a nightmare that would haunt them every time Halloween came around and from that time on they were all very happy to dress up as skeletons or fairy queens, take their bags and visit the neighbours, safely trick or treating. CRUISING KIDS CORNER They had been told to stay away from the old plantation house ruinA Caribbean Halloweenby Lee Kessell

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OCTOBER 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 32 FROM ANCHORS TO WHISTLES, A BOAT CARRIES A LOT OF SAFETY GEAR. SEE HOW MUCH YOU CAN FIND IN THIS WORD SEARCH PUZZLE BY PAULINE DOLINSKI! Word Search Puzzle solution on page 36 Compass Cruising Crossword Crossword Solution on page 33 CHAINACROSS2) The 10 Across + 23 Across is stowed 12 Across_____ 4) Heavy line for kedging, towing or warping 7) Haul 9) Mean ___ water 10) Device so shaped as to grip the bottom and hold a vessel by 23 Across or rope attached 12) Beneath the 2 Across 14) What 10 Across + 23 Across was made of before the invention of 20 Down 16) Solo 18) Hotel room doors feature a 23 Across ____ 19) 23 Across ______: short pieces provided with hooks for handling cargo 22) _____less 20 Down: an alloy of 14 Across and chromium 23) Subject of this puzzle 24) Let out gradually 26) ___sides: part of hull between waterline and rail 29) 23 Across______: metal strips where lower ends of shrouds are attached to hull 31) This can be foul-weather, worm or self-steering 33) Larboard 34) Prevented from moving 36) Opposite of stern 37) The main 10 Across is housed here 38) There are 5 Down of these in a 28 DownDOWN1) Element in sea water that causes 23 Across to corrode 2) A vessel is 34 Across when the 10 Across is ____ 3) Abrade slowly 4) Nickname for 10 Across 5) VI 6) Take this around 12 Down 8) Place where 10 Across + 23 Across is stowed 11) ___rail: sacrificial wood strip on hull 12) Large post to which mooring lines are made fast 13) Space into which a centerboard is hoisted 15) Cloths used as 3 Down + 31 Across 17) Rope 20) An alloy of 14 Across and carbon or other elements 21) When upping the 10 Across, get the 23 Across ____ the gypsy 23) Heavy rope or 23 Across used for anchoring or towing 25) Bitter ___: final link of 23 Across or last part of rope 27) 23 Across _______: clamp or slip hook to secure 10 Across + 23 Across 28) Length by which 10 Across + 23 Across is sometimes measured 30) Links can be _____ to 23 Across to make it longer 31) Wind of 34 to 63 knots 32) This can come aboard board via the 10 Across + 23 Across 33) Handy to wash mud off the 10 Across + 23 Across 35) ____rail: the rail at a ships stern © Caribbean Compass 2009

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OCTOBER 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 33 OCTOBER 2009 ARIES (21 Mar 20 Apr) Youll be navigating between contrary currents, headwinds and surface chop. Creative efforts might be delayed by misunderstandings and disagreements. This frustrating environment could create rough weather in your love life, too, but keep your boat speed up and youll sail through it all. TAURUS (21 Apr 21 May) The adverse wind has turned and the course of romance has now come upon fair weather and smooth seas. Enjoy this aspect and all the good things it will bring to your business or financial life. GEMINI (22 May 21 Jun) Your cruising creativity will be inspired by a romantic interest that sails into your realm around the 15th. Enjoy! CANCER (22 Jun 23 Jul) It could be a bumpy month if youre not careful. Rain showers in your love life could interrupt any creative effort you are working on, so be great to your mate. LEO (24 Jul 23 Aug) This month starts out in the doldrums but favorable breezes will pick up on the 15th. Use this newfound energy to tackle those boat jobs youve been putting off. VIRGO (24 Aug 23 Sep) Use this time to finalize those business or financial plans youve been working on. Do it before the week of the 15th, when inspiration and communications will both sail over the horizon, then take a break. LIBRA (24 Sep 23 Oct) This will be an inspiring time, as you will hear from and be uplifted by a female friend. This new wind in your sails will have a positive effect on your creativity. SCORPIO (24 Oct 22 Nov) Other than a few slight squalls with crewmembers or cruising pals during the last two weeks, things will sail along smoothly this month. Fair winds! SAGITTARIUS (23 Nov 21 Dec) Dont get thrown off course by arguments and personal problems. Doing so will make business or financial issues even more complicated, so keep your landfall in sight. CAPRICORN (22 Dec 20 Jan) Your love interest will continue to brighten your days and nights, and your happiness will be a big assist to any marine-related business prospects after the 15th. AQUARIUS (21 Jan 19 Feb) Keeping your sense of humors spinnaker flying may be made difficult, as the winds of creative inspiration prove reluctant after the 17th. Just hang on the hook and wait out the lulls. PISCES (20 Feb 20 Mar) Passing squalls in your onboard love life will make shoreside business dealings more difficult. Dont fret; the weather will improve „ it always does. fact-oids Crossword Solution ACROSS 2) DECKS 4) HAWSER 7) PULL 9) LOW 10) ANCHOR 12) BELOW 14) IRON 16) ALONE 18) BOLT 19) SLINGS 22) STAIN 23) CHAIN 24) EASE 26) TOP 29) PLATES 31) GEAR 33) PORT 34) STOPPED 36) STEM 37) BOW 38) FEET DOWN 1) SALT 2) DOWN 3) CHAFE 4) HOOK 5) SIX 6) TURN 8) LOCKER 11) RUB 12) BOLLARD 13) WELL 15) RAGS 17) LINE 20) STEEL 21) ONTO 23) CABLE 25) END 27) STOPPER 28) FATHOM 30) ADDED 31) GALE 32) RAT 33) PUMP 35) TAFFparlumps marooned I s l a n d Island P o e t s Poets OFF SEASON No tourists will come today; this time of year the islands are for the locals, with big rum bellies sucking goat meat from teeth after noonday meals. Nobody here to buy the T-shirts sailing the market-square wind, straining to hear Miss Quashie and her week-old gossip to Queenie, as nothing happen since then, so what to do? Taxi drivers doze in afternoon heat, lunch weighing heavy under almond trees. Restaurant workers meditate on stillness, their only customers shooed and flapped with hand and cloth with an energy inspired by long-dead gods. Fishermen and lobstermen stay home and fix up old cars, play the radio loud and lime like young boys, while under the sea populations boom. The beaches are quiet and bare, (like bank accounts this time of year) because locals only take sea-baths early mornings, Sundays and holidays, and too-besides, is only white people who need a tan. Only the rumshop keepers have business on their stools, and is rum and coke with ice „ save the beers for the tourists and the tourist season when they come back and the locals have to drink on the run. „ Vanessa SimmonsPARLUMPS@HOTMAIL.COM JANE GIBB

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OCTOBER 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 34 The Planets in October 2009 MERCURY Begins the month rising in the morning just before the sun and then hiding in the west very near the sun by months end. VENUS A bright morning star this month. Look at bright Venus rising in the early morning hours. EARTH Due to the worldwide recession, the Earth has been temporarily laid off for the month. Should return in November. MARS Rising about 1:00AM in the constellation Gemini early in the month. Mars then slowly slips to the east and enters Cancer late in the month, rising at about midnight. JUPITER October 1st: Look south. Look up. See the moon? Thats bright Jupiter to the right. October 26th: Same thing, but Jupiter has slipped to the west some. Moon is just to the right of Jupiter now. SATURN Rising early in the morning October 1st and then becoming a daytimeŽ planet for the rest of the month. Sky Events This Month October 8th Mercury and Saturn rise side by side. Need a clear and low eastern horizon. Look in the morning twilight maybe around 5:00 to 5:30AM. October 4th Full Moon October 13th Venus replaces Mercury as Saturns companion again early in the morning. October 16th Venus (the bright one) and Saturn are joined by the pretty crescent moon just before sunrise. (See chart.) October 18th New Moon October 20th through 22nd Peak of the Orionids meteor shower (see below). Orionids Meteor Shower If you enjoyed the Perseids (and who didnt?) you have another chance this month to see a meteor shower. The Orionids meteor shower peaks around the 20th through 22nd this month. This one is due to the Earth passing through debris from good old Halleys comet. Its called the Orionid because the meteors seem to come from a point (called the radiant) near the Orion constellation (see chart). Of course you may start seeing meteors before Orion even rises, so just look east after dark and keep looking! The Andromeda Galaxy As fall goes into winter it is a great time to get a peek at the Andromeda galaxy. Pick a nice clear night with no moon and then look north after about 9:00 or 10:00PM or later. See the big WŽ in the sky? Thats Cassiopeia. Now look farther up from there and you should notice a small smudge in the sky. Thats the Andromeda galaxy (see chart). Take a look with your binoculars and you may even see a little structure to it. So, what exactly are you seeing? Historically this was a hot topic. Some thought that these nebulaeŽ were gas clouds and part of our own Milky Way galaxy. Others thought they were island universesŽ similar to our own Milky Way galaxy and way far away. In 1925 Edwin Hubble, having given up his career as a prizefighter (true!), showed that, indeed, Andromeda was a mass of individual stars and that they were extremely far away! We now know that Andromeda is about 2.5 million light years away. Yeah, thats really far. It also contains roughly 1 trillion stars (almost as much as the US debt). You might be able to get a hint of the island galaxies that surround Andromeda. Our Milky Way galaxy has these too and we call them the Magellanic Clouds, first observed in the west by some sailorƒ Ferdinand something-or-other. Sorry, you have to be farther south than the Caribbean to see them. To Contemplate While Having a Glass of Wine on Deck Wow, 2.5 million light years. Thats far, but whats farther? Whats the farthest we can see? This is the same as asking, how far back in time can we see? The farther you look the older the light. The universe is about 14.7 billion years old so you shouldnt be able to find anything older or farther away than that and we dont. Scott Welty is the author of The Why Book of Sailing , Burford Books, 2007. THE CARIBBEAN SKY: FREE SHOW NIGHTLY!THE SKY IN OCTOBER by Scott Welty Looking east on October 21st at about 0100 hours to see the Orionids Meteor Shower Looking east on October 16th at 0515 local time to view a pretty grouping of Saturn, Venus and the crescent moon Find the big W (or is that an M?) of Cassiopeia in the northern sky. Look up from there youll see the smudge that is the Andromeda Galaxy (Photo courtesy of NASA)

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OCTOBER 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 35 THE CRUISING SAILOR`S CHANDLERY SINCE 1990 AMERON ABC 3 TIN FREE SELF POLISHING ANTIFOULING PAINT CORNER: MIRANDA C O R N E R : M I R A N D A& GUARAGUAO, PUERTO LA CRUZ, VENEZUELA & G U A R A G U A O , P U E R T O L A C R U Z , V E N E Z U E L A TEL: 58 (281) 265-3844 E-MAIL : xanadumarine@cantv.net T E L : 5 8 ( 2 8 1 ) 2 6 5 3 8 4 4 E M A I L : x a n a d u m a r i n e @ c a n t v . n e t No hurricanes 270sq. miles of calm seas Full amenities Phone: (58-281) 267-7412 Fax: (58-281) 2677-810 VHF Channel 71 Web page: http://bahiaredonda.com.ve E-Mail: brmi@cantv.net marina internacional El Morro Tourist Complex Puerto La Cruz VenezuelaLat. 10° 12 ' 24"N Long. 64° 40 ' 5"W Ive been a sailor all my life. One of the fundamental things that sailors are supposed to possess is knowledge of the stars. I am apparently the exception that was meant to prove the rule. For me stars have always been little bits of light in the night sky that I futilely wish upon. This was a particular shortcoming when I began bluewater sailing because we only had celestial navigation to get from one place to another. I remember taking a celestial navigation class in the 1970s. The instructor stood in front of the class pointing to a large chart of the night sky, which showed all the constellations and the key stars we were supposed to use for taking star sights. He could have just as well been pointing to the stains on the carpet for all the good his chart and explanation did me. I spent the entire four-week class trying to make a gaggle of stars look like twins, a scorpion, or a lion. The truth was I could have made anything I wanted out of those stars. Want a bunny? A seashell? A naked woman? All right, the last took some doing but the class was really boring. Instead, I sailed across the Pacific Ocean using the only things in the heavens I could identify: the sun and the moon. And, even the moon I shot before dark so I never did need to identify a navigational starŽ. It is a good thing, otherwise I would probably have missed Asia. I spent most of my night watches trying to find the Big Dipper, because if I did then I could find the Little Dipper and the North Star „ a trifecta give-away. Venus didnt count since it always rose over our bow and until full dark it was like following a street lamp. Night after night my star illiteracy haunted me. On any given night I found a hundred candidates for the Big Dipper. And later I found out the North Star is not actually due north! They could have mentioned that little fact in my celestial navigation class. Maybe they did while I was conjuring up the naked lady. Now, many years and sea miles later, my wife and I are aboard our little cutter serenely anchored in a lovely bay in Grenada. Above us every night is a plethora of stars. Although we still have a sextant aboard, we navigate these days with GPS plotters and computers. For us the stars have become what they have always actually been for me „ another pleasant after-dark pastime. Each evening I sit in my cockpit and look up at the stars and identify the various constellations for my wife. Since she has no idea, and little interest in, which stars make which constellation and she also has nearly blind trust in my judgment (actually it is blind trust since otherwise she would never have gone offshore with me in the first place), I blithely point out various clusters of light and tell her the nameŽ of that constellation. Since I once heard that Orions Belt is near the equator I always pick out two or three stars in a straight line in the southern sky and tell her that they are Orions Belt. For the Big Dipper, well that depends on how close we are to finishing our nightly single ration of rum and coke. If the big jelly glasses are nearly empty I just point to the sky and announce firmly, There, cant you see it?Ž If we are just getting started I look at our compass, find the North Star (almost any star in the north works great for this exercise) look off at an angle and find something that looks like a bucket. And we have the Big Dipper. When she asks for the Little Dipper I tell her it is not visible in this hemisphere. Naturally, she knows that I am making all this up. But, she doesnt spoil it because she knows how much I look forward to finding The Naked Lady. And, after all, she likes The Bunny. STAR STRUCKby Michael Kilday ALYSON KILDAYLook honey „ its The Big Bunny!

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OCTOBER 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 36 The Day the World Ended , by Gordon Thomas and Max Morgan Witts, Scarborough House Publishers, 1991. 306 pages. ISBN 978-0812885101 The Last Days of St. Pierre , by Ernest Zebrowski, Rutgers University Press, 2002. 304 pages. ISBN 9780813530413 Many years ago, I was delighted to buy a secondhand copy of The Day the World Ended by Gordon Thomas and Max Morgan Witts. In those days it was hard to find a good account in English of the massive eruption of Mt. Pelée on May 8th, 1902, that destroyed the city of St. Pierre on the island of Martinique. Nowadays, with Amazon.com, it is much easier to find books, and since I had given away my copy, I bought another, and along with it Ernest Zebrowskis The Last Days of St. Pierre . Together they cost less than a modern paperback, and I found them far more entertaining. Both books read like novels. For fast-paced excitement, you cannot beat The Day the World Ended , which is a day-by-day account, starting on the 2nd of May 1902, and ending on the 8th, that weaves into this time several strong human-interest stories. It was written in 1969, 67 years after the eruption, when the authors could still find a few people close to those times to interview. Zebrowskis book was written in 2002, and is well researched, with the author spending time in St. Pierre, but is based more on historical documents. It gives a wider perspective, detailing the eruptions that happened later that year and following in fascinating detail the voyage of George Kennan, an American who visited Martinique shortly after the eruption and couldnt wait to climb up and peer into the crater of the very active volcano (it was making load roaring sounds), as a terrified populace was still fleeing the area. He also gives more details on the almost simultaneous eruption of St. Vincents Soufriere. Both books are based on history, but written to be popular, including invented dialogue and thoughts of their main characters. About 30,000 people died during the eruption, around a sixth of the total population of Martinique at that time. When you think about this history, you have to start by imagining how St. Pierre was at the turn of the last century, not as it is now. Agriculture in the richly verdant north end of Martinique had, for many years, been the economic driving force of the island. It had spawned over a dozen millionaire estate owners. By 1902, agricultures profitability was declining, though it was still hugely successful, especially in the production and shipment of rum. St. Pierre was the largest city in Martinique and one of the largest in the Caribbean. The permanent population was around 26,000 with many more temporary residents coming in to work. By comparison, Fort-de-France, the capital, had a population of about 17,000. Even Precheur, a small town to the north of St. Pierre, had a population in those days of more than 5,000, about the current population of St. Pierre today. Many more people lived in estates and villages surrounding St. Pierre than do today. St. Pierre, a busy, alive, and extremely attractive city, with its theater and grand parties, had been called the Paris of the West IndiesŽ. The main artery for this city was the waterfront; nearly everything and everyone came and went by boat. The road to Fort de France was narrow and in poor condition. The same was true of the upper road through the mountains. The main and fastest connection was the regular ferry that ran between Fort-de-France and St. Pierre. By the same token, rum and agricultural products were exported, and consumer goods imported, directly by ship. When people went on vacation or business to France, they sailed on these same ships. As May approached there were fears that the volcano was stirring, but upcoming elections had become especially important to the establishment, as black politicians were challenging the status quo. Amadée Knight, a plantation owner, supporter of workers rights and member of the Radical Party, was already the elected senator representing Martinique in France. He was the first black man to hold this post. The upcoming election was for the French Chamber of Deputies. The first round in a three-way race had resulted in a narrow win for Fernand Clerk. Clerk, a member of the Progressive Party, had been selected because in some ways he was very liberal for the times, supporting many of the same things as Amadée Knight. It was thought this would give him a chance against the Radical Party. He was a rich white plantation owner, very much a proper family man and church member, who was aghast at the prostitution, sailors bars and many other profitable ventures in St. Pierre, and wanted to clean them up. He was much too straitlaced for many of his peers. But he was supported by the establishment, which knew he would be easier to deal with than Louis Percin, a radical socialist who was the runner-up. Joseph Lagrosillere, the Socialist Workers candidate, had received the fewest votes and dropped out. A run-off between the two main contenders was slated for Sunday, May 11th. A man up to his neck in politics, who would prove quite influential over the course of this history, was Andreus Hurard, owner, editor and publisher of Les Colonies , the main newspaper. Hurard was determined that Fernand Clerk should win (although he was not overly fond of him personally), and made it his mission to try to stop the volcanos threat from interfering with the election. „Continued on next page BOOK REVIEWS BY CHRIS DOYLE REFLECTIONS ON MT. PELÉES 1902 VOLCANIC ERUPTIONPart One: The Beginning Colonies themainnewspaperHurardwasdetermined Above: On April 28th, 1902, rivers radiating from Mt. Pelée overflowed their banks, despite a complete lack of rain. The sleeping volcano had begun to stir Right: Zebrowskis book gives a wide perspective on the event WORD SEARCH PUZZLE SOLUTION

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OCTOBER 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 37 Read in Next Months Compass : Sailing Directions: Europe to Lesser Antilles A Walk Around Trinidads San Fernando Flying Fish Attack!ƒand more! „ Continued from previous page The man on whose shoulders the responsibility for the population lay was the Governor, Louis Mouttet. Mouttet was a self-made man who had married well, a career civil servant who had done his time in less desirable locations and who regarded Martinique as the place he would like to stay for the rest of his career. He had only arrived five months before the eruption and had a mixed reception. Amadée Knight snubbed him, and considered him of no importance. He found Fernand Clerk rather stiff, and was somewhat put off by his old-money upper-class status. He got on well with Andreus Hurard, who was much more relaxed and had insight into the politics and power of the colony. Had this personal chemistry between the main players been different, it is possible things might have turned out better. The Volcano Comes to Life The year 1902 was not the first time in human memory Mt. Pelée had erupted. There had been a minor eruption in 1851; elderly inhabitants could remember it well. Ash covered some areas of vegetation and then the volcano became dormant again. Subtle signs of activity started again as early as May 1901 and Professor Gaston Landes, at the Lycée in St. Pierre, and the most scientifically educated man on the island, had been watching it through his telescope, recording wisps of smoke. By April 2nd, 1902, Mt. Pelée started belching clouds of steam and smoke, and the surrounding villages were infested with snakes, rodents, and beetles that were driven out of their mountainside habitat. A strong smell of sulfur became pervasive. On April 22nd, Landes noted some small earthquakes on his seismoscope, and the main undersea cable line to Guadeloupe broke. On April 23rd, there was a sizeable eruption, with tremors felt throughout the north end of the island, and when people awoke on April 24th, a layer of white ash covered the landscape. In todays world this would have been plenty of warning to initiate an evacuation. However, in 1902, little was known about volcanoes. Those in Iceland and the Pacific, which had been the most studied, erupted in a fairly controlled manner, sending out a slow-moving stream of red-hot lava, which was fairly easily avoided. Although explosive pyroclastic flows of the kind we have in the Caribbean had occurred within human history, they had not been well recorded, studied, or even named. So, at this time, the population was alarmed, but not yet sure how much of a threat there was. After all, 50 years earlier, the volcano had obligingly gone back to sleep; they hoped this would happen again soon. And for a while, things seemed to quiet down, until April 28th, when rivers started overflowing their banks, despite a complete lack of rain. On April 30th, Landes noted several more earthquakes and there were monstrous flash floods on the river Roxelane and Rivière des Pères, so sudden and severe that several washerwomen were swept away and drowned. But the volcano was still quiet and people hoped that these events had released its pressure and marked the end of the activity. May 1st started fine and clear, then there was an eruption, followed by a fall of dust, and all was quiet again. On May 2nd there was an eruption accompanied by heavy rain. Zebrowski reports that ash fell so thickly in Precheur that the townspeople had to light lamps to see. Thomas and Witts relate that on this day Laveniere, in his estate four miles south of St. Pierre, was swept away in a violent river overflow characterized by a lot of volcanic mud. The volcano erupted with even more force on May 3rd, with violent earth tremors and bright lightning. The village of Morne Rouge was ankle deep in mud and the priest, Father Mary, had his flock in the church praying. The ashfall reached Fort-de-France and, according to Zebrowski, Mouttet took the regular ferry to St. Pierre and then chartered a small boat to visit Precheur. He found some houses with roofs collapsing under the weight of ash, and a panicked population. He did his best to reassure them, promising that, if things got worse, he would evacuate them. He sent a telegram to the Colonial ministry in Paris, alerting them to the eruption. Many people living in outlying areas under the volcano abandoned their houses and fled to St. Pierre, swelling the citys population. At this point, Fernand Clerk started his efforts to persuade people that they should evacuate St. Pierre, that it was crazy to stay. Just after noon on May 3rd he assembled 12 of the towns most influential people and put his case to them. They thought he was mad. Evacuation was insane. How could it be done? Where would people go? Think of the interruption to commerce. In any case, said the detractors, there were enough valleys between the crater and St. Pierre that there was no way for any lava to reach the town. Amadée Knight, not wanting to side with his political opponent, went around telling people that the volcano would only quiet down when they voted the white progressive party out of power. That sounds nuts, but when I sat for a week in St. Vincent watching the volcano erupt in 1979, I remember hearing one of the clergy telling people on a radio program that God sent the eruption because they had not been attending church often enough, so people do say these things. Meanwhile Les Colonies published an upbeat special edition written by Hurard, which started, Yesterday the people of St. Pierre were treated to a grandiose spectacle in the majesty of the smoking volcanoƒŽ He let it be known that he thought there was no risk to people in the town, and that they should welcome refugees from the hills. He finished by saying that his reporters had to postpone a planned trip to the crater, but would reschedule as soon as possible. On Sunday, May 4th, people in St. Pierre observed hundreds of dead birds. The volcano had been rumbling all night, and ash reached Fort-de-France. Governor Mouttet knew he would have to somehow take the situation in hand. Evacuating St. Pierre would be almost impossible. There were not enough boats to take everyone away, and the road would not take sustained heavy carriage traffic. The healthy could walk out, but they would have to leave their possessions behind where they would be subject to looting, and there was no practical way to move the infirm. Fort-de-France, with its population of 17,000, could not accommodate 30,000 refugees. As a first step, Mouttet decided to organize a commission of experts to assess the risk. The committee was quite sanely put together. It included Professor Landes and two other professors, the chief artillery officer who could figure out how far rocks could be thrown, and the head pharmacist who might know of toxic risks. There was only one problem; none of them really knew anything about volcanoes. At that time, no one did. In St. Pierres cathedral that Sunday morning, the acting head of the Catholic Church, Monseigneur Gabriel Parel (the bishop was on a retreat in France), announced to the public that the commission was on its way, and that if they had enough faith in God, God would keep them safe. Clerk felt particularly discouraged in his attempt to persuade the populace to evacuate „ they seemed to have gone mad and refused to realize the danger. He had hoped, having failed to rally the civic leaders, that the Church might help, but to no avail. He decided to get out of St. Pierre with his family and go to his estate in Parnasse. However, at his home in St. Pierre he was met by several friends who were fleeing the volcano and begged to stay with him. He decided to stay for the time being. The influx of refugees was also causing problems with robberies and general unrest. The telegraph cable to Dominica broke. Next month, Part Two: Disaster After Disaster This photo, published in Life magazine, shows busy St. Pierre just before the 1902 eruptionHULTON ARCHIVE / GETTY IMAGES

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OCTOBER 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 38 Stock Upon the widest selection and the best prices in Grenada at our two conveniently located supermarkets. Whether its canned goods, dairy products, meat, fresh vegetables or fruits, toiletries, household goods, or a fine selection of liquor and wine, The Food Fair has it all and a lot more.HubbardsJONAS BROWNE & HUBBARD (Gda.) Ltd. The Carenage: Monday Thursday 8 am to 5:30 pm Friday until 8:45 pm Saturday until 1:00 pm Tel: (473) 440-2588 Grand Anse: Monday Thursday 9 am to 5:30 pm Friday & Saturday until 7:00 pm Tel: (473) 444-4573 Real sailors use Streets Guides for inter-island and harbor piloting directions, plus interesting anecdotes of people, places and history. Streets Guides are the only ones that describe ALL the anchorages in the Eastern Caribbean.NEW! Streets videos, first made in 1985, are now back as DVDs. € Transatlantic with StreetŽ documents a sailing passage from Ireland to Antigua via the Cape Verdes. 2 hours € Antigua Week 85Ž is the story of the engineless yawl Iolaire racing round the buoys to celebrate her 80th birthday. 1 hour € Street on KnotsŽ demonstrates the essential knots and line-handling skills every sailor should know. 1 hour € Streetwise 1 and 2Ž give tips that appeared in the popular video Sailing Quarterly, plus cruises in the Grenadines, Venezuela and southwest coast of Ireland DVDs available at Imray, Kelvin Hughes, Armchair Sailor/ Bluewater Books, and www.street-iolaire.com. Full information on DVDs at www.street-iolaire.com HURRICANE TIPS! Visit www.street-iolaire.com for a wealth of information on tracking and securing for a storm.Streets Guides and DVDs are available at all Island Waterworld stores and at Johnson's Hardware, or from www.iUniverse.com and www.seabooks.com GOOD GUIDES ARE TIMELESSRocks dont move „ or if they do they are shown on up-to-date Imray charts. Regarding marine infrastructure, virtually every island puts out a free marine trade guide every year, which is much more up-to-date than any guide; similarly, the tourist departments put out a free annual guide for bars, restaurants and hotels. With all these updates readily available, Streets guides are timeless. REMEMBER to tell our advertisers you saw their ad in Compass! Onboard Pasta with PanacheEven though it is now disputed whether or not Marco Polo introduced pasta to Italy from China, the Italians are certainly the undisputed greatest consumers of these fancy carbohydrates. Although noodles of various kinds are eaten in many different countries of the world, Italy has several hundred different pasta shapes, sizes, thicknesses and colours. The most popular and well known are undoubtedly macaroni and spaghetti. There are also dozens of fancy pastas in the shape of seashells (conchiglie), bows (farfalle) corkscrews (rotelli) and various tubes and spirals. The word pasta means paste in Italian and refers to the dough made with durum wheat flour or semolina and either water or milk. Sometimes eggs are used. Some pastas, such as ravioli and tortellini, have fillings. Cannelloni and rigatoni tubes have open ends and are filled with savory stuffings of various kinds. Fresh pasta requires less cooking time and is perishable, requiring refrigeration if stored before being cooked. Dried pasta of all types can be kept unrefrigerated indefinitely if kept dry and in a sealed container. Pasta is the perfect carbohydrate to have on board. Both vegetarians and carnivores alike can enjoy pasta depending on the sauces or fillings used. The general rule of thumb for saucing pasta is to use a light sauce on delicate, light pasta such as angel hair noodles and a heavier sauce for sturdier pasta. Thick heavy meat sauces can be used successfully on lasagna or filled cannelloni. Fresh herbs such as oregano, basil, thyme and rosemary are a fragrant addition to the blandness of pasta. These can be incorporated right into the dough itself or used as part of the sauce or filling. A simple, fresh pasta dough can be made by hand with 2 Cups of flour and 3 eggs. Durum flour is best as it has a higher gluten content than regular flour. The flour should be sifted onto a clean surface and formed into a small pile. Make a well or indentation in the flour and add the three eggs. Gradually incorporate the eggs into the flour using your fingers. Heres where the hard work happens „ knead the dough for about 10 minutes until it is smooth and elastic. Cover the dough and let both it and you rest for about 20 minutes. This is a great time to have a glass of your favorite red wine or a cold beer. The dough can then be rolled into the desired thickness, about 1/8 inch thick, on a floured surface with a rolling pin. Cut into strips for noodles or sheets for lasagna. When confined to a wharf or marina for a week or two, Ill sometimes make pasta to relieve the boredom. Every clothes hanger aboard is used to hang strips of fresh pasta for drying. Its after a session like this that a fettuccini feast is the natural choice for supper. Cooking fresh pasta is a breeze. Bring a large pot of fresh water to the boil on your cook top. Should your water source be somewhat alkaline or hard, as can be found in some locations, a small amount of lemon juice put into the water will improve cooking. Add noodles to the boiling water and a teaspoon or two of cooking oil. The addition of oil has two effects. Firstly it eases the action of the boiling water and secondly adds a light coating of oil to each piece of pasta as they are lifted through it. This will also reduce the chance of the pasta sticking together. Salt the water slightly and stir pasta as it boils. Dont cover the pot with a lid as it will surely boil over. Cook pasta al dente , meaning that you stop the cooking while the noodles are still slightly chewy in the center. With fresh pasta, this usually takes only two or three minutes. Drain well. Have your favorite sauce ready, or simply toss freshly drained hot noodles with a good olive oil, fresh herbs if available, diced tomatoes and salt and pepper. Now thats called good. Ciao! by Ross Mavis

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OCTOBER 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 39 WALLILABOU ANCHORAGEWALLILABOU BAY HOTEL VHF Ch 16 & 68(range limited by the hills) ... PORT OF ENTRY MOORING FACILITIES WATER, ICE, SHOWERS CARIBEE BATIK BOUTIQUE BAR AND RESTAURANT TOURS ARRANGED CREDIT CARDS ACCEPTED HAPPY HOUR 5-6 P.O. Box 851, St. Vincent & the Grenadines, West Indies. Tel: (784) 458-7270 Fax: (784) 457-9917 E-mail: wallanch@vincysurf.com With a warm, fresh flavor and smell, basil is one of the worlds most widely grown and used herbs. It is one plant that can easily survive growing in a pot in your cockpit or galley. I use it especially when I experiment with Italian and Asian recipes. This herb is related to mint and there are more than 60 varieties with various tastes and colors, with names like sweet, mammoth, dark opal, cinnamon and licorice. The leaves used in cooking can be green, reddish, or purple. The name basil is from the ancient Greek word meaning royal; its medicinal uses made the herb noble. Ancient Egyptians used basil as an ingredient for preserving mummies. East Indians respect basil as a sign of generosity, and Italians think of it as a symbol of love. Basil rapidly loses its flavor when picked and is not well preserved by drying or refrigeration. (Note: One-half ounce of fresh basil leaves equals one Cup of chopped fresh basil. When substituting dried for fresh, triple the amount. ) It is a great addition to any garden, afloat or ashore. It is easily grown in pots, and if placed near a window or hatch it will deter flies and mosquitoes. Basil needs loose soil and occasional water. It is very easy to grow from seed. Once it has about eight leaves, literally pinch off the top of the plant between your thumb and forefinger. This will stunt the plants upward growth and force it to grow more leaves. The pinching will also keep the plant alive longer as it will delay flowering. Basil has very few calories and is a good source of vitamins A, C and K, magnesium and potassium. This herb improves blood circulation by fighting badŽ cholesterol, while reducing the chance of irregular heartbeats. A basil leaf will relieve the pain of a mouth ulcer and basil tea will soothe sore gums. Basil tea is also a soothing remedy for arthritis or rheumatism. Fresh basil is a requirement for most chefs, especially in Italian cuisine. Its goes well with tomatoes, onions, garlic and oregano, which are the basic Italian seasonings. It is also a great addition to a stir-fry, and vegetable dishes with eggplant, cabbage or peppers. To get the best flavor from basil, add the fresh leaves towards the end of cooking. For a good, easy sauce for fish just mix minced basil leaves with mayonnaise. Basic Pesto 1/3 Cup fresh basil leaves 1/2 Cup olive oil 2 cloves of garlic, pounded 1/2 Cup pine nuts 3/4 Cup grated Parmesan cheese pinch salt (One leaf of chadon bene can be added to vary taste) Put basil leaves in blender and chop, while gradually adding oil and garlic. Add pine nuts slowly and continue processing until everything is a thick cream. Add cheese and salt and mix. Use it as a pasta topping with about two tablespoons of pesto per person. Pesto can be made in volume and frozen, but in that case dont add the cheese until you are ready to prepare a meal. Herbed Egg-and-Veggie Pie 1 large onion chopped fine 2 cloves garlic, minced 3 Cups thinly sliced cabbage 1/2 pound mushrooms, sliced 1 Cup chopped basil leaves 1/2 teaspoon marjoram 1/2 teaspoon tarragon 1/4 Cup cream cheese, softened pre-made pie crusts (one top and one bottom) 4 hard-boiled eggs, sliced 1/2 teaspoon fresh dill, chopped salt and spice to taste 1 egg, beaten Coat a large frying pan with oil and sauté onions and garlic. Add cabbage and mushrooms and simmer for about 20 minutes. Stir in basil, marjoram and tarragon. Allow mixture to cool. Spread the softened cream cheese in bottom of piecrust and arrange a layer of sliced hard-boiled eggs over the cheese. Cover with cooled cabbage, onion, and mushrooms. Sprinkle with dill and cover with second piecrust. Make cuts in the top crust to let steam escape, and brush with beaten egg. Bake at 350°F for half an hour. Serve when cool. Tremendous Tomatoes 6 medium to large fresh tomatoes 1 avocado 1/2 Cup fresh basil leaves, chopped fine (or 2 Tablespoons dried basil) 1 medium onion, chopped fine 1 Cup grated cheddar cheese 1/4 teaspoon oregano Halve tomatoes and place cut side up in a baking dish. They should fit fairly snugly. Peel avocado, remove seed and chop flesh. Cover tomatoes with mixture of avocado, basil, onion and cheese. Sprinkle with oregano and broil in oven or on barbecue grill (covered) for five minutes. Serve hot. T H E S P I C E L O C K E R B Y S H I R L E Y H A L L THE SPICE LOCKER BY SHIRLEY HALL BASIL „ THE ROYAL HERB

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OCTOBER 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 40 Dear Compass , Regarding the excellent article about Morris Nicholson by Julie Lea in the August issue of Compass , Id like to share a wonderful little anecdote. I brokered the insurance on Eleuthera , the yacht Morris skippered in the Caribbean for owner Gus Koven, for about 20 years. Then Morris said to me one day, Don, I am sorry but I am afraid you are going to lose the insurance. Eleuthera is going to be sold as Mr. Koven is getting too old to sail her.Ž A week later I was at the New York Yacht Club having lunch with my publisher, Eric Swenson, when Mr. Koven came over to our table and said, I am sorry, Don, but you will probably be losing the insurance on Eleuthera . We are having to sell her because Morris is getting to old to sail her.Ž Gus and Morris were an owner and skipper who had been together for a lifetime, something that so seldom happens in the yachting world. D.M. Street Jr. Iolaire Dear Compass , In the September issue of Compass there was a truly amazing article, Chartering from a Crews Point of ViewŽ by Arlene Walrond. Here was an article by a crewmember who enjoyed the chartering experience. I was completely startled. I had never before read an article where the crew did anything but bitch and berate the clients. I have always wondered why, if a person feels the clients are such bores, does he or she not find other work. I suspect that Arlenes clients returned home happy and would recommend her boat to friends. Which brings me to another wonder: why do some yachts for charter not have water makers, therefore needing water policeŽ? I have read several times in articles about the clients using sooo much water. I am sure most clients are not hardcore sailorsŽ but people on vacation who enjoy sailing in a beautiful setting. I can just imagine the word-of-mouth advertising from a customer who returns home complaining about not being able to wash his undergarments but once a week. On water makers I can offer a few suggestions that may help. I use mine a lot, and my experience may help someone. First, the heart of any water maker is the pump, not the membrane. Membranes normally go out slowly and there should be at least two so if there is a sudden failure the good product water can be routed to the tank. This is usually a very easy procedure. When evaluating a pump, go for the most titanium possible. Just as you dont use 304 stainless on the deck but use 316 or 316L, if possible, dont use stainless in the pump. I use a Wanner diaphragm pump with titanium valve seats and springs turning at 1,200 rpm. I prefer direct drive rather than belt. I have had two operate in excess of 35,000 hours without failure. Look for a flexible coupling and not a direct sleeve from pump to motor, as these tend to freeze together. I find Cat pumps may be driven like this when in a direct drive application. I try to follow most manufacturers recommendation of flushing the machine with product water (never use shore water as it may contain chlorine) if laying it up for more than a week. All the best, George Townsend F/V Lovely Lisa Dear Compass , Im compelled to respond to the letter by Judi Lebeau in the September edition. Like her, I enjoy reading the letters in the Compass with all their different points of view. I must protest, however, when she refers to cruisers who sail into local waters, enjoy all that is there (for free), maybe buy a T-shirt and then sail awayŽ. Maybe there are a few such cruising cheapskates, but the famous ECLAC study of 2003 proves that yacht visitors as a rule spend plenty in the islands they visit. Even in Ms. Lebeaus St. Vincent, where spending levels are lower than in places such as the BVI or Trinidad (mainly due to lack of big-ticket spending opportunities on St. Vincent, I might add, not to cruisers cheapness), sailing people outspend cruise ship tourists. She seems to feel that cruisers should merely be toleratedŽ by locals, yet it is cruise ship passengers, in fact, who enjoy a lot for free and maybe buy a T-shirt, if they even go ashore at all. A recent UPI news report says, Larger numbers of tourists [are] confined to the ever larger cruise ships that bring them to the Caribbeanƒ Operators of cruise liners are seeing new opportunities in offering wellheeled customers self-contained floating citiesƒ In most cases passengers are warned they [go ashore] at their own risk, and many dont, industry sources saidƒ the ships themselves are direct competition for the Caribbean destinations at which they will call.Ž In contrast, my partner and I are not wild spenders, but on our last trip ashore we bought groceries, postage stamps, gas for the outboard, propane for the stove, an hour of internet time and a new socket wrench set, and we also had lunch at a restaurant and used a taxi. Yachts are not direct competition for Caribbean destinations, they are a boon for them. Perhaps Ms. Lebeau is a landlubber and has confused cruise ship passengers with yacht visitors. But she and others in St. Vincent who really believe that cruisers are freeloading bums should realize that, according to the ECLAC study, yacht visitor expenditure contributes between US$8 and US$10 million annually in direct revenue to your countrys local economy. Tolerate that. John Duran S/V Mighty Mouse Dear Compass , We really shouldnt tell anybody. We spent the summer hurricane season (so far this year, a non-hurricane season) mainly in Venezuelas offshore islands. It was cruising heaven. We were surprised how few other cruisers, mostly French, we encountered. We sailed from Grenada to Los Testigos, Margarita (we much preferred Juangriego to Porlamar), Blanquilla, Tortuga, Los Roques, Las Aves and then Bonaire. Our mid-size catamaran was the perfect vehicle. Doyles guide was very helpful. A water maker is a must. Be well provisioned. Dont forget good snorkel gear because youll spend lots of time in the water. Please sign us, Cat Out of the Bag Dear Compass Readers, We want to hear from YOU! Please include your name, boat name or shoreside address, and a way we can contact you (preferably by e-mail) if clarification is required. We do not publish individual consumer complaints or individual regatta results complaints. (Kudos are okay!) We do not publish anonymous letters; however, your name may be withheld from print at your request. Letters may be edited for length, clarity and fair play. Send your letters to: sally@caribbeancompass.com or Compass Publishing Ltd. Readers Forum Box 175BQ Bequia St. Vincent & the Grenadines R E A D E R S ' READERS' F O R U M FORUM YAMAHAParts Repairs Service Outboard Engines 2HP-250HP Duty-Free Engines for Yachts McIntyre Bros. Ltd.TRUE BLUE, ST. GEORGES, GRENADA W.I. PHONE: (473) 444 3944/1555 FAX: (473) 444 2899 email: macford@caribsurf.com TOURS & CRUISES CAR & JEEP RENTAL

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OCTOBER 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 41 ST. THOMAS YACHT SALESCompass Point Marina, 6300 Est. Frydenhoj, Suite 28, St. Thomas, U.S.V.I. 00802 Tel: (340) 779-1660 Fax: (340) 779-2779 yachts@islands.vi Sail36 1980 Albin Stratus, Cruiser or 6 pack charter vessel $45,000 41 1980 Morgan Out Islander AC, great condition $79,000 46 2000 Jeanneau twin helms, 3 staterooms $179,900 49 1979 Transpacific Ketch, Bluewater, 3 strms, loaded $180,000Power26 1987 Whale Boat Navy Capts gig, Perkins, 4109 $33,000 29 1994 Phoenix SF, Twin Volvos, trim tabs, outriggers $64,500 32 1996 Carver 325 Twin Crusaders, great condition $59,900 361980 Litton Trawler, Yanmar diesels, Gen Set $30,000 40 1999 Tiara 4000 Express, Genset, AC, Twin Cats $275,000Call, fax or visit our website for a complete list of boats for sale www.stthomasyachts.com La Creole 50 1978 Gulfstar Ketch. Well maintained classic, 3 strms, $145,000 Summer Place 44 1985 Beneteau Idylle, Great Cruiser, AP, AC, Genset $86,000 MONOHULLS Amel 54 2007 St Martin 699 000 € Amel Super Maramu 2001 Martinique 320 000 € Sun Odyssey 40 2002 St Martin 89 500 € Beneteau Oceanis 461 1993 Martinique 130 000 US$ Hallberg-Rassy HR 38 (1979) St Martin 79 000 € CATAMARANS Eluthera 60 2003 Martinique 530 000 € Belize 43 2001 Martinique 180 000 € Lagoon 380 2004 Martinique 149 000 € Athena 38 1996 Martinique 119 000 € OCEANIS 393 2001 56 HP Yanmar Good condition Martinique 95 000 US$ PRIVILEGE 12 M 1994 2 * 30 hp Volvo Good condition St Martin 99 000 € Letter of the Month Dear Compass , I do not share the Caribbean Compasss enthusiasm for the IGY move to appoint an ambassador to represent yachting in the Southern Caribbean. It is counterproductive and has the potential to cause serious damage to yachting as we know it. We have already seen what happens when foreign-based marina developers move into the Caribbean. These for-profit organizations have used their vast resources and influence to lobby and obtain concessions from local governments to restrict or ban anchoring in the waters near their marinas (e.g. St. Georges Lagoon, Grenada; Marigot Bay, St. Lucia; and in the lagoon at the IGY Rodney Bay Marina). The developers of the Isle de Sol marina (now operated by IGY) in St. Maarten were responsible for the widening of the bridge into Simpson Bay Lagoon and the subsequent fees for anchoring that are used to pay for the bridge widening. (Ironically, the president of the St. Maarten trade association who is now critical of the fees [ Compass July, 2009] was very much in favor of them initially when he was the project manager of the development. Interestingly, he is now an employee of IGY and was instrumental in the developments in Rodney Bay.) And, now, IGY is suggesting that they be in charge of determining what is best for yachting in the Caribbean. The naming of Cuthbert Didier as their ambassador should raise some concerns. In the interview in the August issue of Compass , Mr. Didier spoke of the ECLAC study of 2001* for which he served as a consultant and did several ground breaking studiesŽ. Mr. Didier was only one of many who worked on the ECLAC study; it was a collaborative effort on the part of many people from all of the islands whose objective was to develop a sustainable yachting sector that satisfies the needs of the customer while providing maximum benefits to the local populations. Overall, the report that resulted from the study was a good start as a blueprint on what needs to be done to enhance yachting. A number of items in the report could be categorized as strategicŽ, including the creation of a region-wide association to represent yachting, along with the need to collect more data on yachting and the yachting tourist, and the need to raise the publics awareness of the benefits of yachting. The ECLAC study recommended the creation of a regional private-sector marine trade association and the formation of marine trade associations on the islands where they did not already exist, with the implied mandate to implement further the findings within. As a result, additional island trade associations were formed, and the region-wide Caribbean Marine Association (CMA) was created. In St. Lucia, the Marine Industries Association of St. Lucia of St. Lucia (MIASL) includes most of the marine businesses of the island. However, Mr. Didier and his employer, IGY, have yet to join the organization. Why is this? Perhaps Mr. Didier does not agree with the current leadership of MIASL and feels that he is better equipped to address and solve the yachting issues in the Caribbean than is MIASL? Or, is it because he does not support the ECLAC recommendations? It makes sense to this writer that the problems and issues facing yachting would be better solved by a united effort rather than having a maverick or maverick organization promoting their own personal interests. IGY is a for-profit concern responsible to their investors, and Mr. Didier is an employee of IGY. I am sure that Mr. Didier is a fine man, but how can the yachting community trust that he will be acting in their best interests when he is receiving a paycheck from IGY? Unfortunately, after all the publicity that accompanied the release of the ECLAC report in 2004, it seems to have been forgotten, and the CMA has pursued other agendas. It would be in the best interests of yachting for CMA to go back to basics, review and, where necessary, update the initial findings, and develop a prioritized plan to implement the ECLAC recommendations. Five years have already passed and it is time to start. It is difficult enough for the trade associations to get approval and support for their initiatives without having a splinter organization with its many resources working from a separate agenda. It is time for IGY Rodney Bay to join MIASL and CMA. For the betterment of yachting in the Caribbean and to realize the objective of the ECLAC study, IGY should abandon their plan to have their own ambassador in the Caribbean and work within the established structure to enhance the yachting experience for all and to maximum benefits to the people of the islands. I am not interested in having IGY with its own profit-oriented objectives speak for my interests. I believe that it would be much better to have an organization that is comprised of a team representing the interests of all the Eastern Caribbean and members of the organization that is representing yachting interests in the Caribbean (i.e., the CMA or the local island trade associations) as our yachting advocate. The Caribbean Marine Association was created for that purpose. John Pompa S/V Second Millennium Boston, Massachusetts * The ECLAC report Yachting in the Eastern CaribbeanŽ was published in January 2004 and can be found by doing a Google search using the keywords: ECLAC Yachting A Regional OverviewŽ. ECLAC studies for individual islands can be found by using the keywords ECLAC The Yachting SectorŽ and an islands name.

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OCTOBER 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 42 YACHT FOR SALE62' Sunseeker Manhattan 62Check it out onwww.yacht-tt.com CALENDAROCTOBER 4 FULL MOON 4 10 42nd Bonaire International Sailing Regatta. www.bonaireregatta.org 5 Thanksgiving Day. Public holiday in St. Lucia 10 War of 1868 Anniversary. Public holiday in Cuba 12 Public holiday in The Bahamas (National Heroes Day), Bermuda (National Heroes Day), Belize (Pan American Day), Puerto Rico, USVI and Turks & Caicos (Columbus Day) 15 Jounen Kweyol Entenasyonnal (International Creole Day), St. Lucia 17 Public holiday in Guyana (Diwali) and Haiti (Death of Dessalines) 17 Feast of La Marguerite. St Lucia. Cultural folk festival 18 Divali. Public holiday in Trinidad & Tobago 19 Public holiday in Jamaica (National Heroes Day) and BVI (St. Ursulas Day) 19 USVI Hurricane Thanksgiving Day (Public holiday in USVI if no hurricanes occurred) 21 Antillean Day. Public holiday in Netherlands Antilles 24 United Nations Day. Public holiday in Haiti 24 International Human Rights Day. Public holiday in Turks & Caicos 25 Thanksgiving Day. Public holiday in Grenada. Boat races 27 Independence Day. Public holiday in St. Vincent & the Grenadines. Local boat races in Bequia 30 31 12th Annual Foxys Cat Fight multihull regatta, Jost Van Dyke. West End Yacht Club (WEYC), Tortola, BVI, tel (284) 495-1002, fax (284) 495-4184, mvh@surfbvi.com, www.weyc.net 30 … 1 Nov Triskell Cup Regatta, Guadeloupe. www.triskellcup.com 30 … 1 Nov World Creole Music Festival, Dominica. www.wcmfdominica.com NOVEMBER 1 Public holiday in Haiti and French West Indies (All Saints Day), Antigua & Barbuda (Independence Day) and USVI (D. Hamilton Jackson Day) 2 FULL MOON. Public holiday in Haiti (All Souls Day) 2 20th West Marine Caribbean 1500 sets sail from Hampton, VA to Tortola. www.carib1500.com 3 Independence Day. Public holiday in Dominica 4 Community Service Day. Public holiday in Dominica 6 … 8 2nd Heineken Regatta Curaçao. www.heinekenregattacuracao.com 7 8 Budget Marine Womens Caribbean One Design Keelboat Championship, St. Maarten 9 Public holiday in Cayman Islands (Remembrance Day) and Dominican Republic (Constitution Day) 11 Public holiday in Puerto Rico and USVI (Veterans Day), French West Indies and BVI (Armistice Day), St. Maarten (St. Maarten Day), and Bermuda (Remembrance Day) 11 … 15 US Womens Match Racing Championship, St. Thomas, USVI. St. Thomas Yacht Club, tel (340) 775-6320, fax (340) 775-3600, manager@styc.net 14 St. Maarten Open Optimist Championship. St. Maarten Yacht Club (SMYC), tel (599) 544-2075, fax (599) 544-2091, info@smyc.com, www.smyc.com 14 … 15 St. Thomas Radiology Womens Regatta, USVI. St. Thomas Yacht Club, tel (340) 775-6320, fax (340) 775-3600, manager@styc.net, 16 Statia-America Day. Public holiday in Statia 18 Battle of Vertieres Day. Public holiday in Haiti 19 Public holiday in Puerto Rico (Discovery Day) and Belize (Garifuna Settlement Day) 20 28 19th Aruba Heineken Catamaran Regatta. www.arubaregatta.com 22 ARC 2009 departs Canary Islands bound for St. Lucia. www.worldcruising.com/arc/ 23 Liberation Day. Public holiday in Montserrat 25 Republic Day. Public holiday in Suriname 26 Thanksgiving Day. Public holiday in Puerto Rico and USVI 27 … 29 JHR Caribbean Regatta, Antigua. Jolly Harbour Yacht Club (JHYC), Antigua. tel (268) 770-6172, miramarsailing@hotmail.com, www.jhycantigua.com 27 29 Course de LAlliance Regatta, St. Maarten/St. Barths/Anguilla. www.coursedelalliance.com 30 Independence Day. Public holiday in BarbadosAll information was correct to the best of our knowledge at the time this issue of Compass went to press „ but plans change, so please contact event organizers directly for confirmation. If you would like a nautical or tourism event listed FREE in our monthly calendar, please send the name and date(s) of the event and the name and contact information of the organizing body to sally@caribbeancompass.com WHATS ON MY MIND Whining About the Beaten Trackby Don StreetIm tired of hearing cruisers whine about overcrowded anchorages in the Eastern Caribbean. Why complain that the track is beaten when you never get off the beaten track? Those with a good boat of not too deep draft, good eyeball navigation skills, weather sense and no herd mentality can find plenty of solitude. For example, if youve spent the hurricane season in the south and are heading up the island chain, after leaving Tyrrel Bay in Carriacou head south and east and anchor off Saline Island, using a Bahamian moor because of the reversing tide. Then head up the east coast of Carriacou behind the reef. (When passing Point St. Hilaire go dead slow and check the depth. The last time I was there, there were eight feet of water, but that was a few years ago.) Anchor and go ashore at Windward to see local schooners and sloops being built or repaired. Then sail to Frigate Island, which is attached to Union Island by a low causeway. There might be one or two other boats there. At Mayreau, eyeball your way up the EAST side behind the reef in good light and anchor in sand. Its just as good as the Tobago Cays, and no other boats! Use chart Imray-Iolaire B311. If the weather is calm and settled, you can anchor at Landing Bay on uninhabited Balliceaux. From there, head to windward of St. Vincent direct to Vieux Fort, St. Lucia. (This is no good in winter when the wind is north of east, but if the wind is east it is okay, and if a little south of east its a nice reach.) The east coast of Martinique is seldom visited by yachts. Use Imray-Iolaire chart A301 as the Martinique chart A30 is of such a scale it does not give detail enough to really explore. Also there is a locally produced guide that is excellent. On to the Saintes, where Terrede-Bas is much quieter than Terre-de-Haut and has excellent, unpretentious restaurants. If the wind is in the southeast and anchorage in Terre-de-Bas not good, anchor in Terre-de-Haut by Sugar Loaf and dinghy across to Terre-de-Bas. These are just a few examples. There are many more uncrowded anchorages to be discovered as you proceed north. But by now you might be ready for some company! u i n I t C c t l B F S S t e b a n s I m M s t o lo e d LOULOUNE FREE Caribbean Compass On-line FREEwww.caribbeancompass.com

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OCTOBER 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 43 UNIQUE IN DOMINICA Roseau & Portsmouth Tel: 767-448-2705 Fax: 767-448-7701Dockmaster Tel: 767-275-2851 VHF: 16info@dominicamarinecenter.com www.dominicamarinecenter.com The Dominica Marine Center is the home of the Dominica Yacht Club and your center for: € Yacht Mooring Anchorage € Grocery Store & Provisioning € Bakery (Sukies Bread Company) € Water at dock € Fuel (Unleaded / Diesel) € Ice € Yacht Chandlery agents Budget Marine /Sea Choice Products Mercury Marine / Yanmar Marine € LP Gas (propane) refills € Showers & Toilets (WC) € Garbage Disposal € Security € Telephone & Fax € Mobile Phone Rental / SIM Top Up € Laundry WiFi Internet € Beach Bar € Nearby Restaurants € Taxi & Tour Operators € Whale Watching & Sport Fishing € Light Engine and Boat Repair € Customs / Immigration Clearance Information € Visa / Master Card accepted To advertise in Caribbean Compass Market Place, contact your island agent (see list on page 4) or contact Tom at (784) 457 3409 tom@caribbeancompass.com Caribbean Compass Market Place continued on next page PORTHOLE RESTAURANT & BAR& Shoreline Mini-MarketA friendly atmosphere where you can sit and meet people.Admiralty Bay, Bequia Noelina & Lennox Taylor welcome you! VHF CH68 Phone (784) 458-3458 We serve breakfast, lunch and dinner MID ATLANTIC YACHT SERVICESPT-9900-144 HORTA / FAIAL, AZORESProviding all vital services to Trans-Atlantic Yachts! Incl. Chandlery, Charts, Pilots, Rigging EU-VAT (14%) importation Duty free fuel (+10.000lt)TEL +351 292 391616 FAX +351 292 391656 mays@mail.telepac.pt www.midatlanticyachtservices.com CARRIACOU REAL ESTATELand and houses for sale For full details see our website: www.islandvillas.com or contact Carolyn Alexander atDown Island Ltd e-mail: islander@caribsurf.comTel: (473) 443 8182 Fax: (473) 443 8290We also handle Villa Rentals & Property Management on Carriacou W A L L A C E & C O WALLACE & CO F i s h i n g D i v i n g Y a c h t E q u i p m e n t Fishing Diving Yacht EquipmentElectronics, marine electronics, 12 & 24 volts, inverters, lights, sockets, navigation, charts, guides, marine hardware, blocks, cleats, SS fasteners, rope, Spectra, pumps, hoses, complete diving, snorkeling and fishing gear. Phone: 784 458 3360 wallco@vincysurf.comHablamos Español Nous parlons Français Wir sprechen Deutsch The ONLY Duty Free Chandlery in BEQUIA SAILMAKING, RIGGING, ELECTRONICS Grenada Marine € Spice Island Marine Tel/Fax (473) 439-4495 turbsail@spiceisle.com TechNick Ltd.Engineering, fabrication and welding. Fabrication and repair of stainless steel and aluminium items. Nick Williams, Manager Tel: (473) 536-1560/435-7887 S.I.M.S. Boatyard, True Blue, Grenada technick@spiceisle.com tel: (473) 440-2310 fisher@caribsurf.com  rare exotic arts + crafts  jewelry  wooden-ware  hammocks + more unique gifts for your boat, home + friendsyoung street st. george's grenada just steps from the carenage Y A C H T A S S I S T A N C E S I M O N C O R I O N YACHT ASSISTANCE SIMON CORIONEXPERIENCED & RELIABLE SERVICES Captain charter & delivery Maintenance of boats Looks after boats, manages yachts Taxi Service Cell: 473 459 1201 Home: 473 443 7592 Based next to Tyrell Bay Haulout Parle Français BEQUIA VENTURE CO. LTDappointed agents in St. Vincent & the Grenadines for Primer, Epoxy, Top Coat, Antifouling, ThinnersPORT ELIZABETH, BEQUIA Tel: 784 458 3319 € Fax: 784 458 3000 Email: bequiaventure@vincysurf.com € SPRAY PAINTS € ROLLERS € BRUSHES € TOOLS €€ CLEANING SUPPLIES €€ NAILS € HOSE CLAMPS €€ FILLERS € STAINLESS FASTENERS € ADHESIVES €

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OCTOBER 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 44 Packages Pick – up call: + (599) 553-3850 / + (590) 690-222473 Int. 001-3057042314 E-mail: ericb@megatropic.com CIRExpress COURIER SERVICES St. Maarten/ St. Martin, collect and deliver door to door Caribbean Compass Market Place continued on next page Voiles AssistanceDidier and MariaLE MARIN/MARTINIQUESails & Canvas (repairs & fabrication) located at Carenantilles dockyardOpen Monday to Friday 8-12am 2-6pm Saturday by appointment tel/fax: (596) 596 74 88 32 e-mail: didier-et-maria@wanadoo.fr LE MARIN, MARTINIQUE € GRENADAwww.caraibe-greement.fr cgmar@wanadoo.frPhone: +(596) 596 74 8033 Cell: (596) 696 27 66 05 R I G G I N GS H I P C H A N D L E R clippers-ship@wanadoo.frTel: (0) 596 71 41 61 Fax: (0) 596 71 77 Shipchandler, Artimer Le Marin, Martinique

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OCTOBER 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 45 Caribbean Compass Market Place THIS COULD BE YOUR MARKET PLACE AD Book it now: tom@caribbeancompass.comor contact your local island agent MAN OVERBOARD!by Tina Dreffin WHATS ON MY MIND A day at sea sailing restores the soul. I desperately needed soul repair. It all started early one morning. Its going to become miserable in the Dominican Republic,Ž lamented Chris Parker during his morning SSB weather broadcast. He failed to say how bad it would get!Ž my husband, Peter, added later. When the gnarly sub-tropical, sub-human ridge of low pressure descended upon the big island, it brought downpours of biblical proportions. Bay waters in Samana around Scud , our St. Francis 44 catamaran, turned red from mountain run-off. We filled our 200gallon water tanks from the first downpour. Everything grew wet: towels, sheets (who left that hatch open!), and me. My soul grew limp and drippy. So when clear blue skies replaced bruised altostratus, we launched ourselves into the Mona Passage bound for the Virgin Islands. The earthy smell of wood smoke rode the morning sea breeze, triggering fond memories of Samana, but as much as we loved the Dominican Republic, it was time to push east. The thorny path had grown prickly. Jimmy Buffet does wonders to the weary soul. Crank him up, and his lyrics take you away. Since it was my turn at the helm, I chose the tunes. Changes in LatitudesŽ became Changes in LongitudesŽ. Steering with my toes, I clapped my hands. My hair streamed behind me in the light breeze, and I let loose. Belting out lyrics of afraid we would go insane‘Ž I felt renewed, perky and sassy. Over my show in the cockpit, I caught phrases of an on-going discussion coming from the main salon between Peter and our son, Adam „ a speed-demon at heart. Why are we going so slowly? Scud should be slicing through these swells at least two knots faster!Ž he said. They poked their heads into the cockpit. I was jolted out of my reverie when Peter shouted, Babe, whats that THING behind you!Ž I thought he was kidding, but then his brows furrowed, and I grew alarmed. I turned around in the captains chair for a peek, and then screamed. Where did „ how did „ what the „ !Ž Attached to our boat was a double football field length of tangled mass of polypropylene line studded with cola bottles and other trash. Adam and I quickly collapsed the genoa, while Peter stripped, donned mask and snorkel, and grabbed his trusty rigging knife. He plunged overboard into the depths of the Mona Passage. I cried, Babe, tie this ropeƒ!Ž but my words were cut short when his head disappeared beneath our twin hulls. My beloved is overboard!Ž I wailed in my mind. Adam leaned over the side, trying to ascertain if the mass was entangled around one of the props or the saildrives. He guided his dad between the hulls, while I steadied the helm. Even without sails up, Scud can move through a sea like a steeplechase steed, being a performance cruising cat. The big swells, remnants of the low, worried me. I couldnt see Peter. Minutes dragged by like hours. I wanted a rifle, in case any sharks were lurking around. I felt ashamed of not noticing the problem and avoiding it. Peter could be hit by a prop; myriad things could go wrong. Suddenly, Adam shouted, Start the engines; go reverse!Ž I complied mutely. Were free!Ž Adam shouted. He dashed across the decks to locate his dad in the water. When Peter clambered aboard, I hugged him fiercely. Sorry, babe. My fault,Ž I said earnestly. That mass just appeared out of nowhere suddenly!Ž (Or an hour ago? I dont know! Jimmy and I were checked out.) We piled the thick, heavy line onboard; plastic bottles and a large span of netting were attached. The heap would all be properly dumped ashore: it was a death trap for sealife. Earlier, we were thrilled to observe the humpbacks in the Turks & Caicos breach alongside the boat as they migrated to their calving grounds in the Dominican Republic. A young calf could easily become entangled. Nothing is worse on Scud than a poor lookout. Id been BUSTED. I made a mental note to play more sepulchral tunes when on watch. Jimmy would understand. But then a thought came to me, as I messed about in the galley for something special to appease the crew. By snagging the mess, I had possibly rescued a young whale from death. Above: Peter grabbed his trusty rigging knife and plunged overboard Inset: Part of the enormous snarl of polypropylene line that had captured Scud

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OCTOBER 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 46 CLASSIFIEDS BOATS FOR SALE 1975 German Frers 39ft, 2 sets racing sails,US 57.000 1981 Cape Dory 30, US 39.000, St.Lucia duty paid 2000 Catana 471, 4 cabin, 460.000 Euros 1987 Irwin 44 US 105.000 1992 Dehler 37 CWS, 90.000 Euros 1981 CT 54 US 195.000 2006 Bahia 46, Hi spec upgrades, lots of extra equipment with charter contract, 390.000 EurosE-mail Yachtsales@dsl-yachting. com Tel (758) 452 8531 BOATS FOR SALE IN TRINIDAD Tel (868) 739-6449 www.crackajacksailing.net YOUNG SUN 46FT VENUS 1984 KETCHfiberglass, vgc, new engine 2007, excellent live aboard and cruiser. GPS, RADAR, VHF, Auto Pilot, EPIRB, SSB, Water Maker, Air-Con, Solar Panels, Wind Generator & more. Full specs at www.freewebs.com/venus46forsale Price reduced for a speedy sale US$169,000 ONO Lying St Lucia. E-mail venus46@live.com or Tel: 596-696-907429 FOR SALE TO RECOVER BOATYARD RENT: 1. Dufour Arpege, 30 ft Reduced to $5,500US. 2. Fiberglass Sloop, 31 ft, repainted, no engine, reduced to $5,000US. Call Don at Power Boats in Trinidad at (868) 634-4346, or E-mail don@powerboats.co.tt We can send photos. MAXIM 38 CATAMARAN 2001 , very well equipped, E-mail maxim4sale@gmail.com or Tel (473) 536-2319 for full details.SEA RAY 420 SUNDANCER 2004 Twin 465hp Yanmar Diesels. Perfect condition, too many extras to mention. Just received fresh bottom paint, acid wash and wax. Professionally maintained. $275,000 E-mail jmoraino@yahoo.com Tel: (340) 513-4024 1993 BENETEAU 445 Cruising Ready to go performance cruiser/live aboard located in the Virgin Islands. Watermaker, wind generator, solar, davits, AGM batteries, newer engine, navigation electronics, dinghy. $129,000 Tel (340) 344-6262 www.ansano.com/4sale 1979 HUGHES 38' . Sparkman and Stevens design. Canadian built. Currently Grenada. US$32,000 ONO E-mail hughes38.1979@yahoo.com 36 MAHOGANY AUXILIARY SLOOP copper fastenings, good condition Tel (784) 458-4969 E-mail seabreezetours@vincysurf.com 2 X 7.5M WATER TAXIS Single 150hp Yamaha Outboards, low miles, nav. lights, courtesy lights, compass, VHF, full safety gear, vests, seats 12, forward helm, rear cushioned seating, complete with GPS tracker and onboard camera, Both boats are in very good shape. 120k is for 2 boats or 65.5k USD each. E-mail jibshot@earthlink.net. COCHISE , an elegant 39 ft yacht (1991) and pleasure to sail is for sale. Noted for speed, ease to handle, simplicity and Boat of The Year 2007 Trinidad. Cochise is very well maintained, sailed only by owner and brought in from NL on containership. Ideal boat for comfortable, fast cruising with family/ friends, and equipped for club racing. All J-Boats design weaknesses taken care of in recent years. Extensively overhauled with new mast and rod rigging (2002), large sail wardrobe, many extras incl. new Raymarine autopilot (2007), well-maintained Harken winches, 2 anchors + chain, large sun awning etc. Interesting price of 55,000 US$ reflects current location (Caribbean) and move to larger world cruiser. E-mail cochisestellendam@zonnet.nlBENETEAU FIRST CLASS 10 "BLAZIN"For sale in Barbados. Race ready with an enlarged cockpit. Keel and rudder are original. Hull 1985. New rig 2001. Large sail inventory. US$15,000 Tel: (246) 230-3695 34' CUSTOM FISHING PIROGUE Tel: (784) 454 3474/457 4532 998 FOUNTAIN 25' C.C. w/ 200 HP 2004 Yamaha OB completely rebuilt in 2008,full radar arch, cushioned sundeck, VHF, ice chest, all required C.G. safety gear,2 Fortress anchors, dock lines and fenders, turnkey ready to go. Fresh bottom paint, and very fuel efficient. Great deal at $20,500. E-mail jmoraino@ yahoo.com Tel (340) 513 4024 HERITAGE WEST INDIES 46´ 77 Classic cc-cruiser with centerboard. On the hard at SIMSCO, Grenada. US$ 40,000 or try an offer. boc@hotelhenan. 1989 MIURA 31FT South African design. Crossed Atlantic. Full Inventory: SSB, Radar, Air X etc. 18 hp Yanmar. Good condition located St. Martin US$ 25,000. E-mail: clivetredger@gmail.com 50' STEEL WORK BOAT. Caterpillar main engine, Northern Lights generator. Utility crane/hydraulics, crash pump. Only US$15,000 Tel (868) 332-1107 E-mail divepro122@yahoo.com 41 CATALAC CATAMARAN 1984, 2 yanmars 3hm35, onan 7.5 kw, a/c. new autopilot. located in La Guaira, Venezuela. US$129,000. Tel 0058.414.308 1343 E-mail tehani555@gmail.com MISC. FOR SALE SELDEN RIG for VINDÖ 35, deck stepped, boom, spreaders, lights, winches (has been changed for upgrade) 2000 US OBO ask for details 758 4528531 e-mail: destsll@candw.lc36HP YANMAR OUTBOARD DIESEL , Trinidad. Cell: 868-650-1914 or e-mail: JanDutch@tstt.net.tt. ENGINES FOR SALE Volvo 60hp or 20hp; Perkins 75hp w/ turbo-charger. Good working condition. New and used Volvo parts.Call Lawrence in Trinidad (868) 730-4036 E-mail dymphna15@yahoo.com SAILS AND CANVAS EXCEPTIONALLY SPECIAL DEALS at http://doylecaribbean.com/specials.htm CALVERT HOME SCHOOL Large quantity of home-school books from Grade 1 through 6. For complete list E-mail cathy@bequiadive.com COMPLETE KETCH RIG , masts, booms, rigging, sails, etc. POA, Outboards; 4hp, 5hp, 15hp, POA, Scuba dive gear, new POA, Dive compressor 17cu.ft.min, gas, new US$8,000 Bequia. Tel (784) 457 3962 YAMAHA OUTBOARD ENGINE 150hp 4 stroke low hours. Tel (784) 454 3474/ 457 4532. PROPERTY FOR SALE Bequia , Lower Bay, Bells Point, House and Land. Serious buyers only. Sale by owner. Call (784) 456 0866 after 6pm. E-mail lulleym@vincysurf.com CARRIACOU, ONE ACRE LOTS and multi acre tracts. Great views overlooking Southern Grenadines and Tyrrel Bay www.caribtrace.com RENTALS ACCOMMODATION BEQUIA Recently completed, four ensuite air-conditioned rooms on waterfront property. Panoramic view of Admiralty Bay from verandah, access to the sea from our own jetty. Located in quiet northwest corner of Admiralty Bay. These rooms are comfortably furnished in modern style, and offered as room only or bed and breakfast for short or long term. Day charters available to neighboring Grenadine Is. on 55 sailing trimaran, watersports equipment available. For further information. Tel (784) 458 3942 E-mail daffodil_harris@yahoo.com BEQUIA, FRIENDSHIP 2 apt house, upstairs 3 bedroom/2 baths, unfurnished. Downstairs, 2 bed/2 bath furnished. Offered as complete house or separate units. Tel: (784) 495-3704 E-mail tinamitchell83@hotmail.com Sapphire Resort MarinaSt. Thomas , Safe-PrivateConvenient. Long & Short Term Rentals 65 ft Max. $1,200.00 monthly. Adjacent Apartments also available. E-mail: lvc99@aol.com Tel: 787-366-3536 Sapphire Village St. Thomas Studios and 1 Bedroom Apartments. Short & Long Term Rates. Starting @ $1,100.00 month. Boat Slips also Available. See photos at www.vrbo.com #106617 Tel: 787-366-3536 or Email: lvc99@aol.com SERVICES PUERTO LA CRUZ, VENZ. INSURANCE SURVEYS, electrical problems and yacht deliveries. Tel Cris Robinson (58) 416-3824187 E-mail crobinson@telcel.net.ve ISLAND VIEW at WOBURN BAY, GRENADA offering sports bar, restaurant, jetty, WiFi, showers, ice, laundry & more! Open daily 10AM…10PM. Tel (473) 443-2645 VHF 16 Island View celebrates Thanksgiving Sunday, Oct. 25th Work Boat Regatta … Lots of Fun … Sailing, Swimming, Food and much more! INTERNATIONAL MEDICAL INSURANCE US$5,000,000 worldwide AŽ rated cover, 4700 US hospital direct billing network. Highest Deductible Hospital option age 30-34: $35 monthly. www.protexplan.com E-mail info@protexplan.com, Tel (604) 724-7384 BUSINESS OPPORTUNITY DISTRIBUTORS REQUIREDWe are an established leading edge weather forecasting software company in the marine leisure industry based in the UK. We are looking for distributors to launch our product in your country. See www.movingweather.com for more details on the product. E-mail c.reed@movingweather.com USE YOUR YACHT FOR AN INCOME!Ž Successful Caribbean Day Charter business with strong website offers Franchises throughout the Caribbean Island chain. Low cost business start up. For more information visit www.miramarsailing.com then contact us. WANTED MARINE TECHNICIAN WANTED Respected Marine Engineering Co. in Grenada is seeking all round experienced technician for marine diesel engines, electrical, electronics, watermakers, wind generators, AC and refrigeration. We can assist with work permit. Ideal for cruiser or independent tech looking for the stability of an established company in Grenada. Please email CV to enzamarine@spiceisle.com Tel: (473) 439-2049 CLASSIFIED ADS US 50¢ per word … include name, address and numbers in count. Line drawings/photos accompanying classifieds are US$10. Pre-paid by the 15th of the month. No replies. A&C Yacht Brokers Martinique MP Admiral Yacht Insurance UK 40 American Yacht Harbor St. Thomas 12 Aquanauts Grenada MP Art & Design Antigua MP Art Fabrik Grenada MP B & C Fuel Dock Petite Martinique 29 Bahia Redonda Marina Venezuela 35 Barefoot Yacht Charters St. Vincent 14 Barrow Sails & Canvas Trinidad MP Bay Island Yachts Trinidad 39 Bequia Marina Bequia 27 Blue Water Sailing USA 9 Budget Marine Sint Maarten 2 Budget Marine Sint Maarten MP BVI Yacht Sales Tortola 41 Camper & Nicholsons Grenada 6 Caraibe Greement Martinique MP Caraibe Yachts Guadeloupe 41 Carene Shop Martinique 18 Caribbean Marine Electrical Trinidad MP Caribbean Propellers Ltd. Trinidad MP Caribbean Woods Bequia MP CIRExpress St. Maarten MP Clippers Ship Martinique MP Cooper Marine USA 39 Corion Boat Services Carriacou MP Curaçao Marine Curaçao 9 Dockwise Yacht Transport Martinique 16 Dominica Marine Center Dominica MP Dopco Travel Grenada 8 Down Island Real Estate Carriacou MP Doyle Offshore Sails Tortola 3 Doyle Offshore Sails Barbados MP Doyle's Guides USA 28 Echo Marine Jotun Special Trinidad 8 Electropics Trinidad MP Food Fair Grenada 38 Fred Marine Guadeloupe 22 Grenada Marine Grenada 20 Grenada Tourism Grenada 7 Grenadines Sails Bequia 26 GRPro-Clean Martinique MP Iolaire Enterprises UK 25/38 Island Water World Sint Maarten 5/48/MP Johnson Hardware St. Lucia 23 Jones Maritime St. Croix 40 KNJ Marine Trinidad MP KP Marine St. Vincent 15 Lulley's Tackle Bequia 26 Marc One Marine Trinidad MP Marina Zar-Par Dominican Rep 13 McIntyre Bros. Ltd Grenada 40 Mid Atlantic Yacht Services Azores MP Navimca Venezuela 36 Northern Lights Generators Tortola 24 Perkins Engines Tortola 17 Petit St. Vincent PSV 31 Port Hole Bequia MP Power Boats Trinidad MP Renaissance Marina Aruba 11 Santa Barbara Resorts Curaçao 10 Savon De Mer Caribbean MP Sea Services Martinique 19 Soper's Hole Marina Tortola 12 Spice Island Marine Grenada 21 St. Thomas Yacht Sales St. Thomas 41 Superwind Germany 28 SVG Air St. Vincent 37 Technick Grenada MP Tikal Arts & Crafts Grenada MP Trade Winds Cruising Bequia 27 Trans Caraibes Rallies Guadeloupe MP Turbulence Sails Grenada 21/MP Tyrrel Bay Yacht Haulout Carriacou 29 Vemasca Venezuela 35 Voiles Assistance Martinique MP Wallace & Co Bequia MP Wallilabou Anchorage St. Vincent 39 WIND Martinique MP Xanadu Marine Venezuela 35 ADVERTISERS INDEX ADVERTISER LOCATION PG# ADVERTISER LOCATION PG# ADVERTISER LOCATION PG# ADVERTISER LOCATION PG# MP = Market Place pages 43 to 45 Your Classi“ ed on the Internet www. caribbeancompass. com

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OCTOBER 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 47 Delicate. Defenseless. Endangered. Rescue the Reef ®Throughout the tropics, coral reefs protect countless marine species and provide food and livelihoods for 500 million people, but who protects the reefs? Assaulted by pollution, over“shing and global warming, coral reefs are being destroyed so quickly that 70% of the worlds reefs may disappear within 50 years. Who can Rescue the Reef? You! Act now at nature.org/rescuePhoto: © Jeff Yonover

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