Citation
Caribbean Compass

Material Information

Title:
Caribbean Compass the Caribbean's monthly look at sea & shore
Place of Publication:
Bequia St. Vincent and the Grenadines
Publisher:
Compass Pub.
Publication Date:
Copyright Date:
2009
Frequency:
Monthly
regular
Language:
English
Physical Description:
v. : ill. ; 35 cm.

Subjects

Subjects / Keywords:
Boats and boating -- Periodicals -- Caribbean Area ( lcsh )
Yachting -- Periodicals -- Caribbean Area ( lcsh )
Genre:
serial ( sobekcm )
periodical ( marcgt )
Spatial Coverage:
Saint Vincent and the Grenadines

Record Information

Source Institution:
University of Florida
Holding Location:
University of Florida
Rights Management:
Copyright Compass Pub. Permission granted to University of Florida to digitize and display this item for non-profit research and educational purposes. Any reuse of this item in excess of fair use or other copyright exemptions requires permission of the copyright holder.
Resource Identifier:
54085008 ( OCLC )
1605-1998 ( ISSN )

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C. MPASS

The Caribbean's Monthly Look at Sea & Shore
www.caribbeancompass.com



SSt. Thomas'
Mangrove
Getting into it....................... 21





Cuba, Again!
SWhy they can't stay away ..... 22

Having 'Culture'
Aboard
Yogurt for yachties ................ 42




Carriacou

Regatta 2008 Tobago Blues
An all around authentic event.. 11 Cruisers just want to visit..... 46



Business Briefs....................... Dolly's Deep Secrets............36
Eco-News .............................. 10 Book Reviews..................... 37
Regatta News........................ 14 Cooking with Cruisers.......... 42
Sailors' Horoscope................. 34 Readers' Forum............ 45
Island Poets............................ 34 Meridian Passage............. 46
Cartoons................................ 34 What's On My Mind..............46
Cruising Crossword............... 35 Caribbean Marketplace......51
Word Search Puzzle.............. 35 Classified Ads.....................54
Cruising Kids' Corner............ 36 Advertisers' Index................54

S..I I I .. I .. .. : ... .. .. ... r . r

Tel:(784) 4573409, Fax: (784) 457-3410 .:. ..... .....

Editor .................................. Sally Erdle
sally@caribbeancompass.com. .... i i
Assistant Editor...................Elaine Ollivierre .
jsprat@carlbsurf.com
Advertising & Distribution........Tom Hopman
tom@carlbbeancompass.com I
Art, Design & Production......Wilfred Dederer .. .
wlde@carlbbeancompass.com i i
Accounting................................ Debra Davis
debra@caribbeancompass.com T\.... iii i r.., .. .. ...
Compass Agents by Island: ..., ., :....i... i , ,

.m... rne .n..v i ..

i:.. i .. .. .. .








ISSN 1605 1998


SEPTEMBER


1 Labor Day. Public holiday in USVI
5- 11 Dia di Bonaire sailing races, Bonaire
6 Bonaire Day. Public holiday in Bonaire
6 7 Back to Schools Regatta, BVI. Royal British Virgin Islands Yacht Club
(RBVIYC), tel (284) 494-3286, rbviyc@rbviyc.com, www.rbviyc.net
8 Virgin of the Valley Festival, Margarita, Venezuela
15 FULL MOON
17 National Heroes Day, Public holiday in St. Kitts & Nevis
19 Independence Day. Public holiday in St. Kitts & Nevis
20 International Coastal Clean-Up Day
20 Clean-Up Dive, Bonaire
24 Our Lady of las Mercedes. Public holiday in Dominican Republic
24 Republic Day. Public holiday in Trinidad & Tobago
28 Soualiga Challenge Kayak Race, St. Barths to St. Maarten.
thebrowns@domaccess.com

















OCTOBER


1 Eid UI Fitr (Muslim festival). Public holiday in Trinidad & Tobago
2 Thanksgiving Day. Public holiday in St. Lucia
4 5 Pete Sheals Match Racing, BVI. RBVIYC
4-5 Defis Guadeloupe Kayak race. otanton@gmail.com
5- 11 41st Bonaire International Sailing Regatta. www.bonaireregatta.org
10 War of 1868 Anniversary. Public holiday in Cuba
11 Willy T Virgins Cup Race, BVI. RBVIYC
13 Columbus Day. Public holiday in Puerto Rico and USVI
14 FULL MOON
18 YSATT Marine Trades Show, Chaguaramas, Trinidad. info@ysatt.org
18 St. Maarten Optimist Championship. www.smyc.com
18 20 Trafalgar Cup Race, BVI. RBVIYC
20 USVI Hurricane Thanksgiving Day (Public holiday in USVI
if no hurricanes occurred)
21 St. Ursula's Day. Public holiday in BVI
21 Antillean Day. Public holiday in Netherlands Antilles
24 26 11th Annual Foxy's Cat Fight multihull regatta, Jost Van Dyke.
West End Yacht Club (WEYC), Tortola, BVI, tel (284) 495-1002,
fax (284) 495-4184, mvh@surfbvi.com, www.weyc.net
25 Thanksgiving Day. Public holiday in Grenada; boat races
27 Independence Day. Public holiday in St. Vincent & the Grenadines.
Local boat races in Bequia, jsprat@vincysurf.com
28 Divali (Hindu festival of lights). Public holiday in Trinidad & Tobago
30 Nov 2 St. Lucia Food & Rum Festival, Rodney Bay
31 Nov 2 World Creole Music Festival, Dominica

All information was correct to the best of our knowledge
at the time this issue of Compass went to press but plans change,
so please contact event organizers directly for confirmation.
If you would like a nautical or tourism event listed FREE in our calendar,
please send the name and date(s) of the event and the name
and contact information of the organizing body to
sally@caribbeancompass. com.


Cover photo: Cookie Kinkead / Errol Flynn Marina, Port Antonio, Jamaica


















Info












Lower Caribbean Yachting Report
A research team of two individuals, Koen Altena and Erwin Herbert, both fourth-
year marketing students from Holland, has compiled a report in English analyzing the
Lower Caribbean Yachting Industry. The report features Curacao as a prime exam-
ple of an island whose yacht-service industry has developed rapidly over recent
years. It also includes Grenada, Trinidad and Venezuela all of which have bene-
fited from being below the usual hurricane belt. Koen and Erwin say that by con-
ducting research that has widespread applications, their hope is that all of the sur-
rounding islands can benefit from the research.
The team conducted interviews with 152 yacht owners all over the lower
Caribbean to find out what they consider valuable aspects of a yachting destina-
tion, and to allow yacht owners to give their personal evaluations of the various
yachting locations within the lower Caribbean. Interviews were also conducted with
boatyard and marina managers, governmental organization representatives, and
other persons who possessed relevant information about the yachting industry of the
lower Caribbean.
The 90-page report analyzes the characteristics of the average yacht owner who
travels in the lower Caribbean, what his wants and needs are, and how much he
spends (around US$2,200 per month according to the results of the interviews). It
also includes a competitive analysis of the four destinations studied.
This is the first report of its kind done especially on the yachting industry of the lower
Caribbean, and we congratulate Koen and Irwin on their efforts.
For more information contact caribbeanyachts@gmail. com.
Arrests Made in Rio Dulce Attack
Julia Bartlett reports: Swift action by Guatemalan police resulted in arrests days
after Guatemala saw its first cruiser fatality due to assault for about eight years.























Dan Dryden (at right) was killed during an armed yacht robbery on the Rio Dulce.
His wife, Nancy, is reportedly recovering from stab wounds. Guatemalan police have
two suspects in custody. According to Roy McNett, editor of the Rio Dulce Chisme
Vindicator, two other men believed to have been involved in the incident were killed
recently in a shoreside shooting
On August 9th, Alaskans Dan and Nancy Dryden were aboard their 42-foot
Southern Cross, Sunday's Child, anchored about a hundred yards off Monkey Bay
Marina in the Rio Dulce between the town of Livingston and Lago Izabal (15.5N,
88.4W). The boat was boarded by four men armed with machetes, who tried to rob
them. Dan Dryden resisted, and in the resulting struggle he was killed. Nancy was
wounded and admitted to hospital with a collapsed lung. After surgery, she is now
reportedly out of danger.
On August 11th, three yachts newly arrived in Guatemala, Dream Odyssey, Cdog
and Mima, entered the Rio Dulce. They anchored near the hot springs, intending to
continue the two miles into Texan Bay the next morning. During the night, Dream
Odyssey was boarded by five men armed with machetes and one gun. Items of
value were removed but the boatowner and his wife were not injured.
The following morning, the skipper of the British yacht Phalcor reported on the cruis-
ers' VHF net that at about 2:00AM a group of men had boarded his yacht and tried
to rip open a closed hatch. After failing to do so, despite strenuous efforts, the men
used bolt cutters to cut the chain securing his portable generator on deck. They left
with the generator and a fishing rod. The yachtsman was not injured, and the
boarding party left some evidence behind.
Two suspects in the death of Dan Dryden were arrested on August 14th. According
to the local newspaper El Periodico, Carlos Ernesto Lemus Hernandez, 19, and his
brother Elfido Concepcion Lemus Hernandez, 33, both of the village of Esmeralda, a
few miles from where the attack occurred, were taken into custody after a search
of their home resulted in the discovery of an ice pick and binoculars believed to


have been taken from the Dryden's sailboat. Nancy Dryden has told newspaper
reporters that she could identify in a line-up the men who killed her husband.
The US Embassy, relatives and local boaters have rushed to support Nancy, and
the Vice-President of Guatemala, Rafael Espado, has taken a personal interest in
this incident.
Some months ago when security issues were raised, local businesses and boaters'
representatives met with the Guatemalan Navy and Tourist Police. As a result of dis-
cussions at that time, three anchorages were designated which the Navy volun-
teered to patrol. A handout was also designed, warning boaters of the possible
dangers of anchoring out and pinpointing the designated "safe" anchorages. The
flyer was sent to Livingston to be distributed to new arrivals. Unfortunately, the
patrols apparently stopped once the initial pressure was off. If you are in the Rio
Dulce, be safe: go into a marina. They are inexpensive, pretty and fun.
For updates from the Dryden family visit http://danieldrydenfamily.blogspotcom.
Soufriere Weather Info Returns
The current weather information for Soufriere, St. Lucia, can now be found at its
original address: www.smma.org.lc/weather/weather.htm. Browse the rest of the
website for information on yacht mooring areas in the Soufriere Marine
Management Area and more.







The Soufriere Marine
management Area's
website is a good
source of information
about this part ofSt.
Lucia including,
once again,
a comprehensive
weather report


Cruisers Raise Funds for Carriacou Kids
John and Melodye Pompa report: Despite the rain (and rain and more rain), the
annual Carriacou Children's Education Fund (CCEF) activities held from July 30th
through August 2nd were another resounding success. With donations still coming,
the amount raised this year has already exceeded ECS17,000! Through the generosi-
ty of all who took part, by contributing items and/or cash or by attending and par-
ticipating in the activities, the CCEF will be able to continue the projects that have
benefited hundreds of children on the island for the past eight years.
Continued on next page












S. .. ... .. . iage
C -.i- i.::: I: i -,...,,, ii, 1997 when a group of cruisers in Tyrrel Bay gathered
together for a potluck barbecue prior to the start of the annual Carriacou Regatta
Festival. At that time, there were no more than 15 visiting yachts at anchor. Through
word of mouth, the total experience of Carriacou Regatta has spread though the
cruising community and the number of yachts continued to increase. There have
been as many as 90 visiting yachts anchored in Tyrrel Bay.
In 2000, a group of cruisers discussed a way to demonstrate appreciation to the
people of Carriacou for their friendliness and hospitality. That year this group, the
forerunner of CCEF, held its first benefit auction. At the time, a number of worthy
causes were discussed as the potential recipient of the proceeds of the fundraising,
and the group chose the children of Carriacou and their education.
Since that time over EC$86,000 has been raised to assist children in their schooling,
from pre-primary, through primary, secondary and post-secondary levels. Needy
children are provided with school uniforms and supplies, hot school lunches ("Meals
from Keels"), and full tuition and a book stipend at the Carriacou campus of T.A.
Marryshow Community College. In addition, through a matching funds program,
CCEF has helped two primary schools upgrade the wiring and purchase air condi-
tioners for their computer labs, and has committed funds to do similar upgrades at
the other three primary schools as their needs are identified.


'It's for the kids!' The Harbour Barber was just one of an impressive array of
fundraising volunteers and events that helped net over EC$17,000 at this year's
regatta for the Carriacou Children's Educational Fund


The activities in late July and early August are the culmination of the work of many
volunteers throughout the year. Cruisers spread the word about Regatta, make
items for the craft table or collect items for the auction. Many people who are not
able to attend Regatta drop off contributions at the Yacht Club as they pass
through Carriacou. Others e-mail financial pledges. Some even contribute the pro-
ceeds that they have received from the Caribbean Compass for articles published!
A number of local businesses are also involved with CCEF. Donations of goods and
services are made for the auction, and some of these same businessmen are
among the highest bidders when the gavel comes down.
In addition to the auction, other fundraising activities include a silent auction, the
Welcome Barbecue, a domino tournament, a book swap, a craft table with hand-
made goods contributed by the many artisans aboard the visiting yachts, a "$10
and Under" table of those treasures of the bilge that we all have on board, and the
"Harbor Barber".
A unique donation CCEF receives is the money contributed by visiting yachts that
use the WiFi in Tyrrel Bay. In some bays that yachts frequent, wireless connections
can cost up to US$70 a month. In Tyrrel Bay, free WiFi is provided by some progres-
sive businessmen. All they
ask is that the users consider
making a contribution to the
CCEF. From the level of con- COASTAL CRUISING SPECIAL
tributions that we have
have shown that they
appreciate the service and
want to help the children. _
Sincere thanks go out to
everyone who participated
look forward to seeing all of
you in Carriacou next year to
help celebrate when CCEF
surpasses the $100,000 mark! +
Caribbean Cover Girl! 6. r .-
The S&S34 Morning Tide, a
well-known contender on
the Caribbean racing circuit ..
for the past three decades,
adorns the cover of the
August 2008 issue of the
US-published SAIL magazine
(which modestly bills itself as _
the "world's leading sailing
magazine"). Launched in
1969, Morning Tide was
restored in 2005 by her cur-
rent owner, Peter Morris, who
races her out of Trinidad. I LI 11
Continued on next page


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-ontinuedfrom previous page Educational Fund; John Rowland to the Bequia Community High School Library; and
Grenada Hosts British Youth Swing Band Danny Donelan to the Carriacou Regatta Festival Committee.
One reason Grenada is popular with cruisers is that there's always something going Your generosity is appreciated!
on, even in the summer. The Sherborne Swing Band from Sherborne School, Dorset,
UK, was "on tour" in Grenada during the first week of August. The band, whose Woburn School Says 'Thanks!'
members are aged between 13 and 18, gave concerts at True Blue Bay Resort, Le Woburn RC Infant and Pre-Primary School graduation ceremony took place on
Phare Bleu Resort & Marina, La Source, and The Grenadian at Rex Resorts, with a June 26th, with 28 children graduating and moving on to other schools.
The school would like to
r. .. '~-:-" thank the Compass contribu-
tors who have donated their
payments to the school.
Much essential work had to
be undertaken this year,
including improving the sur-
face of the yard, purchasing
a new photocopier and
renewing insurance. The
school has some develop-
ment projects planned for
-next year, including the pur
chase and installation of
playground equipment.
With just over 100 children
aged between three and
seven, the school has an
Seaside swing in Grenada summertime entertainm.entfor a good cause Ak 0


line-up that comprised three trumpets, two trombones, eight saxophones, guitar,
bass, percussion and keyboard.
The young musicians organise an overseas trip each year, and a regular visitor to
True Blue Bay Resort suggested that they visit Grenada in 2008 to raise funds for the
Queen Elizabeth Children's Home. With Russ Fielden from True Blue Bay Resort pro-
viding Grenada-based support and assistance, the young musicians stayed at The
Grenadian at Rex Resorts and performed five free public concerts and played for
the Westmorland School Graduation Party. The Ministry of Culture also arranged for
the band to run a workshop at Grenada Boys' Secondary School, which was
attended by members of the Royal Grenada Police Force Band and was very well
received by all attendees.
Jamie Henderson, the band's leader, said the whole trip was a great hit with the
band members. The concerts too were very successful with over ECS5,000 raised for
the Queen Elizabeth Children's Home.
Charitable Writers
Who says cruisers are cheap? The following Compass writers have donated the
proceeds from recent articles to worthy local causes: Dave Richardson to Bequia's
Sunshine School for Children with Special Needs; Ciarla Decker to the Marine
Education and Research (MER) Center; Christopher Price to a private fund for
unwed mothers; Jan Brogan to St. Benedict's Infant Hospital in St. Vincent; Chuck
Cherry to the Bequia Mission for a schoolchild in need; Jeremy Shaw to the Woburn
School in Grenada; John and Melodye Pompa to the Carriacou Children's


Over the years, many cruiser kids' have attended the friendly Woburn Pre Primary
and other Caribbean schools
excellent academic record and most of the staff has been with the school for many
years. The school has always welcomed land- or water-based visitors and two "cruis-
er kids" are registered for the 2008-2009 academic year.

Ooops!
In the article "This is the House That Jack Built" on page 40 of the August issue of
Compass, the sentence "The next edition of the Boaters' Directory of Trinidad & Tobago
is scheduled for June 2008 delivery" should have read "...scheduled for January 2009
delivery". We apologize to both Boaters' Enterprise and their readers and advertisers for
any confusion this error might have caused. See the latest news about the Boaters'
Directory of Trinidad & Tobago due out next January! on page 8.
The map on page 15 of last month's Compass, credited to The Abaconian newspa-
per, should have been credited to Derek Lee, who designed it for The Abaconian.


CLEAR SKIES FORECASTED FOR THIS SAFE HARBOR
Sen loc MIn41 Cr~~ fn~ pive ~itx. a~ OpMna


Ser Boca Mariaii, Curaqaro's fines private bmor has opicnils
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BUSINESS BRIEFS


14th Boaters' Directory of T&T Underway
Publisher Jack Dausend reports: The 14th edition of the Boaters' Directory of Trinidad
& Tobago is now being compiled and is targeted for release in January 2009.
This newest edition of the ever-popular and comprehensive directory will include all
the information that visiting cruisers and local boatowners alike have come to expect,
such as information about services and facilities for the repair and maintenance of
recreational yachts (both sailing and power vessels), as well as Customs & Immigration
regulations, Carnival and lots of interesting details about Trinidad & Tobago.
Since its first publication in 1995, the Boaters' Directory of Trinidad & Tobago has
become the indispensable "bible" for boaters in T&T, not only in its handy 5.5" by 8.5"
paperback print version but also in the on-line version at www.BoatersEnterprise.com.
Yacht-related businesses in T&T take note: The foreign recreational boaters arriv-
ing in the Trinidad & Tobago shores (after being at sea for a period of time) are look-
ing for many services. The 250-page Boaters' Directory lists all the services and sup-
pliers by category, brand name and alphabetically complete with links to their
business website and e-mail addresses using the "yellow pages" concept. If you
haven't reserved your advertising space for this 2009 edition as yet,
contact JackD@BoatersEnterprise.com or phone (868) 620-0978.
For more information see ad on page 37.
Northern Lights' Caribbean Dealer Conference
Northern Lights Generators and their Caribbean Distributor, Parts & Power Ltd.,
hosted a Caribbean Dealer Conference on July 29th and 30th at Mariah's By The
Sea on Tortola. The conference, entitled Challenge 2010, was attended by Northern
Lights Dealers from throughout the Caribbean.
Changes in the power-generation market and challenges anticipated over the
next two years were discussed, as were new products, including the new M944T,
which will produce 38kw at 1800 rpm in a remarkably compact package. Web-
based sales and service tools were announced to speed up reaction time to cus-
tomer inquiries, and a large part of the conference focused on how to increase cus-
tomer satisfaction by providing better service overall.










4- -







From left to right: Frank Agrenfrom Inboard Diesel Service in Martinique, Dave
Cooper from Dockyard Electrics in Trinidad, Flemming Neihorsterfrom Seagull
Services in Antigua, and Nathan Price, Vice President Southeast Region
Nathan Price, Vice President Southeast Region, informed the dealers about the
recent acquisition of Technicold, which manufactures high-quality marine air-condi-
tioning and refrigeration equipment. Nathan told the gathering: "The Technicold
product nicely complements our Northern Lights Marine Generator products
because the design and manufacturing process used mirrors our company motto of
Reliability, Durability, and Long Life."
For more information on Northern Lights dealers in the Caribbean see ad on page 16.
Summer Special Offer from Errol Flynn Marina
Stay at Errol Flynn Marina at Port Antonio, Jamaica any time between now and
November and they'll give you one day's dockage free for every three days you
stay with them, which amounts to a 25-percent discount on a four-day stay. (Water
and electricity are not included.)
The marina also says that they are the only shipyard and marina in the region
where you can get a 40-foot yacht hauled out and re-launched for just US$100 or
US$2.50 a foot.
With sufficient space to dock a yacht in excess of 600 feet alongside and a turn-
ing basin to match, the only limiting factor for yachts is their restriction of vessels to a
draft of ten meters (32 feet) or less. Free, secure high-speed WiFi access (or compli-
mentary internet time in their internet cafe if you don't have your own laptop) is
offered to all marina customers.
Ahead on the calendar for Errol Flynn is the 45th International Marlin Tournament,
which runs October 4th through 11th with an estimated 45 to 50 boats expected to
take part in the competition and the onshore partying! And further still down the
line, the Marina is hoping to be selected as one of the stopovers on the 2009
Trancaraibes Rally, after receiving glowing reports from cruisers from a number of
yachts who visited there during this year's event. Marina management and
Jamaica Tourist Board members are expected to meet with rally organizers soon to
finalize plans. Traditionally the rally departs from Guadeloupe in March and includes
stopovers in St. Maarten, the Dominican Republic and Cuba.
For more information on Errol Flynn Marina see ad on page 15
For more information on the Trancaraibes Rally see ad in the Market Place, pages
51 through 53.
Horizon St. Martin Gourmet Sailing Package 2008!
Horizon Yacht Charters (St. Martin) has launched a new Gourmet Sailing package in
partnership with the five-star La Samanna Hotel: a seven-night charter that includes an
exclusive private dining experience inside the hotel's award-winning wine cellar with
your very own chef for the night plus an unforgettable wine tasting experience.
Continued on next page











Continued from previous page
Designed for yachtsmen who appreciate the finer things in life, the special pack-
age offers the opportunity to enjoy impeccable wines and the ultimate dining expe-
rience. The wine cellar, La Cave, is one of the finest in the Caribbean, holding over
14,000 wines covering every category from French Margaux to Californian
Cabernets. La Cave is a romantic, candlelit sanctuary for those who wish to dine
with a few close friends in a unique atmosphere.
On the sailing side, skippers are available for those who like to have someone on
board to help guide them through the islands or for non-sailors who prefer to let
someone else take the helm.
To find out more about the package contact horizonsxm@gmail.com. For details
on all the Horizon Yacht Charters bases in the Caribbean
visit www. horizonyachtcharters. corn.
Successful Atlantic Crossing for Mayrik P214
Regular Compass readers will recall we wrote back in February 2008 about Saint
Martin-based Belgian naval architect Yves Knard's project to create a small, com-
fortable and seaworthy motorboat with low fuel consumption that would ultimately
be able to cross the Atlantic solo. Well, the 21-foot Mayrik P214 MiniTrawler with
Perkins M92B engine successfully made the crossing earlier this summer, taking just 31
days to cover the 4,000 miles from Saint Martin, Netherlands Antilles, via Bermuda
and the Azores, to Saint Martin de Re, close to La Rochelle on the Atlantic coast
of France.
The total fuel consumption was only 3,000 litres, representing a modest .75 litres
per mile. Economy, seaworthiness and comfort have always been paramount con-
siderations in the boat's design and evolution, and the creators are delighted with
the success of the crossing.
The Mayrik P214 will be shown at the La Grand Pavois Boat Show in La Rochelle
this month, and marketed in several versions including Trawler, Fishing (pleasure or
professional), Aft Cabin and Bermudian, with prices starting from 60,000 euros.
Fs- -


Yves Kinard is economical to run

Although the Mayrik P214 is ideal for use in the Caribbean region between the
islands, Mayrik Yacht Design believes its main market will be truly international and is
currently seeking US- and Europe-based partners to work with them towards full
mass production.
For more information visit www.mayrik com and click on P214
or email info@mayrik com.
Grenada's Whisper Cove Open for the Season
Whisper Cove Marina and Restaurant on the south coast of Grenada reopened
on August 20th. There's room for a very few yachts at the dock, or you can arrive by
dinghy or by land. The cozy restaurant serves authentic French cuisine with a
Grenadian twist, such as grilled fish of the day with passionfruit creme.
For more information contact lukebdl@orange.fr.
YSATT Showcases Chaguaramas Marine Services
The range of marine services and supplies offered in Chaguaramas will be on dis-
play at the Yacht Services Association of Trinidad & Tobago (YSATT) 6th annual
Marine Trades Show on Saturday October 18th. This dynamic, business-building event
brings together marine accessory manufacturers, distributors, suppliers, contractors
and buyers through a combination of exhibits, one-on-one meetings and product
demonstrations. It is the only show of its type in the southern Caribbean and provides
a great networking opportunity for the show's visitors and participants. Entrance to
I S 1


the event is free and there will be plenty of giveaways and promotional activities.
Trinidad has become a very popular destination for yachtsmen cruising the
Caribbean. Apart from its well-known geographic advantage below the critical hurri-
cane belt, Trinidad has a lot to offer the yachting tourist extensive repair services and
supplies that are available in a concentrated area, festivals and cultural attractions,
eco-tourism activities, good medical services and a vast range of shopping facilities.
For more information contact info@ysatt org.


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CARIBBEAN

ECO-NEWS

Caribbean Environment Journal Launched
Norman Faria reports: An impressive new regional
journal designed to provide background information
on the region's environment and sustainable develop
ment was recently launched in Barbados.


I Red Lionfish Invade
North Caribbean
The red lionfish (Pterois volitans),
a native of the Indian and western
Pacific Oceans, is now found in the
northern Caribbean Sea.
Researchers believe lionfish were
Editor Nevin Chanderpaul (at left) presents inaugural introduced into the Atlantic Ocean in 1992, when
edition of Caribbean Environment Journal to Barbados Hurricane Andrew shattered a private aquarium and six
Environment Minister Dr. Esther Byer Suckoo of them spilled into Miami's Biscayne Bay. Biologists
think di, .i. .. i i ..... eggs that rode the
The Editor in Chief of the quarterly publication is Gulf -i. .... .. .1. I .i I I .. leading to coloni
Guyanese Navin Chanderpaul, who is presently advi zatioi I I I II ,1,. ... and Bermuda.
sor in the Guyana President's Office on environment Until recently, the lionfish invasion was mostly con
tal matters. Mr. Chanderpaul has served within the centrated on the Bahamas, where it infested shallow
Caribbean region in positions of Chairman of the waters, reefs and mangrove thickets where baby fish
CARICOM Task Force on the Environment (1992 grow. Some spots in the Bahamian archipelago between
1997), Chairman of the Caribbean Council for Science New Providence and the Berry Islands are reporting a
and Technology (1995-2000) and Chairman of the tenfold increase in lionfish over last year. Red lionfish
Steering Committee of the Caribbean Water inhabit lagoons and turbid inshore areas and harbors
Partnership (2004-2006). as well as offshore reefs in their native range.
At a ceremony held at the Pomarine Hotel and Now this venomous coral reef fish is being found in
attended by Barbados's Minister of the Environment, the northern Caribbean, feasting on native species of
Dr. Esther Suckoo-Byer, Chanderpaul pointed to the fish and crustaceans .... 1 ....... 1 was reported to
"harsh realities" of globalization and trade liberalize have eaten 20 smaller I.-i .... j, I df an hour. Red
tion together with global climate change posing new lionfish are now being found on the coasts of Cuba,
threats to the physical environment. These challenges Hispaniola and the Cayman Islands. Diving and fish
affect not only small island states but also low-lying farming industries are concerned and some govern
coastal nations such as Guyana. ments are urging fishermen to destroy the fish.
One of the aims of Caribbean Environment Journal is "This may very well become the most devastating
to educate the public on the Barbados Declaration and marine invasion in history," said Mark Hixon, an
the Barbados Programme of Action (BPOA), which Oregon State University expert interviewed by
came out of the 1994 United Nations Special Conference Associated Press. "There is probably no way to stop the
on Sustainable Development of Small Island Developing invasion completely."
States (SIDS). Adults can grow as large as 17 inches (43 cm), while





wichrd twa wtMl ylssaa 1 ska 416* (


juveniles may be as small as an inch or less. All of the
spines on a lionfish are venomous, i. a danger
primarily to divers and fishermen ii -i,,,,. i, .
there have been no known fatalities c I ... i, i. I,
stings, they are reportedly extremely painful.

Grenadines Hold Anti-Litter Workshop
The Sustainable Grenadines (SusGren) Project con
ducted a two day workshop on "Caring for Litter" for
NGOs, grassroots and governmental organizations in
the Grenadines on July 15th and 16th at the Rotary
Club center in Bequia, with the hop( i i i -
sons in the Grenadines about litter, :- 1 i ... i i
to deal with it. The workshop, conducted by Joan Ryan
of the Solid Waste Management Unit of St. Vincent &
the Grenadines, attracted participants from the St.
Vincent Grenadine islands of Bequia, Union Island,
Canouan and Mayreau, and the Grenada Grenadines
of Carriacou and Petite Martinique.
The main focus of the workshop was to formulate
strategies to alleviate the problem of littering, develop
ing strategies 1. ... I ceptions of littering, outlin
ing the impa(~ I I '..... on the environment and
economy of the Grenadines, n-1 ii-ir-=-n- ;vareness
of the ills of littering and 11' I .. i- I11. can be
derived by proper litter management and techniques
such as recycling.
To combat the problem of littering in the Grenadines,
participants were encouraged by SusGren Project
Manager, Martin Barriteau, to develop and submit
mini-projects based on the action plans developed for
the respective islan-l= -1.;ri.- ti- workshop and
pledged to assist in ....... I.... i, for the imple
mentation of these projects.

Continued on page 40


LEL AUSe a.i AanaI Onon xantrex RV. 0,1 -1 JV= 0


"There is a need for a journal which is dedi
cated to promoting and generating discussion on
the issues related to small island and low-lying
coastal developing states and their path of sus
tainable development," noted the Introduction in
the Trinidad-published first issue.
The journal has several scholarly articles on
-li1n-t- -Vh n- n;-1 sustainablee development,
Si .... i .. ... .. .. on BPOA and a reprint
I I I .. I mbly Resolution on the
late Guyanese President Dr. Cheddi Jagan's pro
posal for a New Global Human Order. The
launching ceremony was attended by regional
technicians, engineers and
Other stakeholders in envi-
ronmental work.
For more information contact
carenpub@yahoo.comn



Non native red lionfish, proba
bly released when a home
aquarium was washed off c
Florida porch by Hurricane
Andrew, now range from
Bermuda to the
Cayman Islands












CARRIACOU REGATTA FESTIVAL 2008


A PERFECT


SUMMER


YACHT RACE!


by Jerry Stewart
There is always an element of uncertainty associated with an August regatta. Will
it rain? Will there be squalls, or excitement of a "tropical" nature? Unsettled weather
kept nervous cruisers farther north than they otherwise would have been as
Carriacou Regatta Festival 2008 drew near.
It's above all a working boat regatta, and the communities of Windward and Petite
Martinique spend the preceding weeks in preparation. We had the opportunity to see
five of the six decked sloops in the boatyard in Tyrrel Bay at the same time as they
joined the yachts all getting ready for Carriacou's main annual sailing event.
The Carriacou Regatta Committee once again welcomed cruisers to participate in
the yacht races, with James Benoit from the Grenada Yacht Club .
officer as usual. The yacht division was fortunate to retain support ...I..
Mount Gay Rum, Doyle Sails Barbados, Island Water World and Budget Marine,
whose continued help in this low-key event gives them all credit. Additional prizes
were supplied by Bogles Round House, Lazy Turtle Pizzeria, Fidel Productions, GG
Design and Alexis Supermarkets -local businesses contributing to make this
regatta a success.
The Doyle Sails Two-Handed Round Carriacou Race, the regatta's main event for
yachts, attracted 25 entries. The attraction of racing with only one's normal cruising
crew (children do not count) maintains the popularity of the event. And Carriacou is
a very small island. The fleet ranged from Frank Pierce's schooner Samhadi, at 55
feet, to the Laser raced by Andy Pell from the yacht Tixi Lxi. Last year's Laser cham-
pion, Michel Weber (age 14), raced BM2, an Yngling, with crew Jason Tuson (also 14)
into third place.
Conditions were benign, and a lifting current, rare in these parts, made a mockery
of the usually favored routes. Richard Szyjan, from Turbulence Sails in Grenada,
came to Carriacou with Category 5, which was once a Hobie 33, and sped around
the island in an astonishing three hours and 28 minutes in winds that might have
peaked at 12 knots.
Cruising Class, for yachts with rating certificates, was split between the Beneteaus
and the old IOR yachts. Tabasco, a Swan 40 raced by Henry Crallan, battled with
Tim Sudell's 44-foot Saga and my Hughes 38, Bloody Mary -all three being S&S
designs from the 1970s. Last year's champion Windborne, Roy Hopper's First 38, and
Tulachean II, Mike and Lucy Murchie's Beneteau 38.5, achieved first and second
place, with Tabasco's crew losing a well-deserved third when they found a wind hole
that refused to give them up. Bloody Mary slipped by to make third, with Saga
fourth, Tabasco escaping from the wind hole to take fifth in front of Richard Watson's
Oyster 48, Sobriyah.
In Fun Class, where yachts are given a less precise : .1 I based on owner's decla
ration, Andy Smelts Spencer 44 -. ii .. i ... .. i ... i off a tr-n.' challengee
from Samadhi to achieve first pla .11. i. 1. i i bringing I. ...I third. A
late squall gave the slower yachts and the Committee Boat a little excitement, but
served only to power up Uwe Gerstmann's Joshua, Salai, ensuring his prompt return
in time for the CCEF auction (see item on page 6).
This year we had five multihulls. Don Marmo's NedKelly returned to the island


to take top spot from Eddie's Boanerges. Paul and Sally O'Regan's Wharram cat
placed third.
In the South Coast Race o. .....-i ..I 1 ...i i Iors again sailed in light winds
and a lifting current. The bea.. i I.... ... . i 1 r clear water of amazing colours
is a feature of the south coast of Carriacou. Cc~, .. .. .... i.- ,,,, I ahead to win
Racing Class. In Cruising Class, Windbome :.. .. I .. .. i i,., I i. Bloody Mary
second and Tabasco a creditable third in conditions that don't suit a Swan.
Fun Class saw Yellowbird ahead of Samadhi, with Mike Candlin's Blue Sky sailing
well to grab third place, ahead of regatta regular Dominic Weber's Sanctus, a
Jeanneau Sun Kiss 47. Thalia, Ivan Jef - 1 - ... .. gaff cutter, managed to
be awarded a rating higher than the :,. ..iI I -Imall country, so sailed
majestically into corrected last place with incredible style, tops'l and all.
There was no yacht race on the Sunday, giving participants the opportunity to visit
the workboat regatta in Hillsborough.
Monday's race offered I 'I .1 1.,.... less wind. Lovely conditions for a gentle sum
mers sail, but a little 1... -. .... I Windborne in Cruising Class, as Bloody Mary
edged into first place .I, I i i1. vith Tabasco and Saga taking third and fourth
respectively. Category 5 once again dominated the Racing Class, and in Fun Class
Samadhi deposed Yellowbird into second place, with Sanctus third and local sailor
Nolan Jules sailing Taliban into fourth.
All in all, it was a perfect summer regatta. The fun of the yacht races coupled with
the excitement of the decked sloops and open boats (see story on page 12) make this
a hard event to improve on.



S\.


Racing, summer style. Bloody Mary in the Two-Handed (kids don't count!) Round
Carriacou Race


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CARRIACOU REGATTA FESTIVAL 2008


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-ontinuedfrom previous page
Our first stop was Sandy Island off Carriacou. I
mean, after all of the hard work sailing up here, you
have to at least stop for a swim and a cold drink before
the night's activities. Just to set the stage for those of
you who have never been to Sandy Island, it is, as its
S a sandbar in the middle of the sea with
I i .1I full of pelicans, some makeshift ponds
constructed out of discarded conch shells, and the
most beautiful white sand you will see anywhere.
Enough relaxing for now: time to head off to dinner.
i ,,,1 the Board of Tourism and the two Dexters
S. *' I and Lendore) from the Carriacou Regatta
Committee are taking us over to Bogles Round House
for an excellent meal. Bogles Round House is a story
in itself. It was constructed by Kim and Sue Russell,
who sailed to Grenada in 1990 from South America
with their three young children. They stopped here to
clear Customs and never left. From all accounts they
were a rather interesting set and set about to build an
unusual house with no straight - : '"ie of the
quirkiest buildings, it resembles ar, .. 1, '.. the out
side and everything on the inside has a story as all of
the materials have been recycled. So we all sat in this
i i, i ,,, ,. i ...... thank Roxanne (Grenada's
11 i .i .. i the best meals I have had
in a long time and definitely one of the best chocolate
desserts anywhere in the world. Ohhh, as your fork
cuts the chocolate, the hot chocolate sauce just
streams out onto your plate.
Day Two. At some point du. ,,. iI, ... 1.1 I put my
foot on the deck to stop the ........ i i ... swinging
the opposite direction from the boat. I awake, check
out the stragglers sleeping on the beach after last
. i and jump into the sea. Then I start cook
:,. i .1i I for the other sleepy-heads waking up.
Bacon, eggs, avocados, sardines, mangoes and lime
juice, and we are good to go. Today is the trial race for
the island sloops, so off we go from Hillsborough head
ing to Windward. Unfortunately the weather and the
captain, who has a wedding to attend in Petite
Martinique, have other plans for us.
So v 1-1 a few small squalls (mostly rain) and
head I the wedding. I have never in my life
crashed a wedding before, but I have also never felt so
welcomed by complete strangers. Quite unusual, the
weddings on this island. Everyone gets together and
contributes a little something to the fete. The party
starts at 9:OOAM, only to stop so everyone can go to the
church for the formalities, then it's back to the fete
and the Heinekens are i ... 1.1 water. I have never
seen so many cases ol II '.. I ,- in my life: it's like
everyone on the island has their personal stockpile. At
about 9:OOPM I'd had enough but the other guests were
still there partying like crazy on the beach.
Day Three is the Round the Island Race, so we head
over to Windward for the start. Going into the channel
at Windward you encounter the most lovely sight. I'm
always amazed at this spot on Carriacou, with its
beautiful traditional wooden homes on the beach
bunched together with the backdrop the Grenadine
islands and some of the clearest, bluest waters.
This is the only regatta where there is no countdown
to the start. The rule is: just trybe as close to the com-
mittee boat as possible, once it arrives, because when
they shoot that gun the race is off. So everyone is mak
: I i, I Lcks around the committee boat and then,
'i1 gun fires and six sloops are competing


quite closely at the start. When we hit the downwind
'- -I innakers are shot out. I .--.... by
11 i-1 then Sandy Island we i the
upwind leg. This is where the seas get a bit harsher
but Savvy is handling them well. The race is won by
Cyril Compton's Margeto, with Glacier and Maristella
taking second and third place respectively.
Si y we pass Windward and head over to
fl.i- ,. i, i ,- the night's activities. One of the com-
ments I have to make about Carriacou Regatta and
the organizing committee is that there is always some
thing happening on the island, and they are always
fun events. Tonight we are heading out to look for
some street food and take in a bit of the Ms. Aquaval
Queen Show.
The Jupa is the spot on the island where all of the
regatta events concentrate. With a number of bars all
within a few feet of each other right on the beach, this
is the spot where the DJs are blasting all of the new
soca and calypso songs for Grenada Carnival, which is
the ii .... It's the spot where you will hear
the :' I I I and who beat whom. (Passion was
victorious in today special Long Open Boats race.)
It's also the spot where you I the best street food on
the island. On either side ol II. street the steel-drum
barbecues and makeshift bars are plying their trade
while the soca reverberates through your soul. The
Queen Show is equally exciting as Ms. Grenada, Ms.
Carriacou, Ms. Petite Martinique, Ms. Union Island,
Ms. St. Lucia and Ms. Bequia strut their stuff on stage
for a very appreciative audience. Ms. Barbados,
Marsha Whittaker, was named Queen.
Sunday reaches, and it's our last day. Breakfast at
Snagg's Beach Bar, which is the quaintest spot on the
beach in Hillsborough overlooking the racing. Today
it's the smaller workboats on the beach and the kids
in the Optimists. The crowds have gathered and are
talking animatedly about who the winner will be. All
races start from the beach with th- r r hir: -r
carrying their boats into the water I1' i,,,. 11
the course. Ballast includes crew i .. I I,
you can see crew throwing over the side to lighten the


load at many points during the day. "Carriacou
Cigarettes" (very fast speedboats built in
Carriacou) can be seen with sunshades up,
zooming by, taking spectators out to shout
;;--;;r~~ -,n-;t t- their racing friends.
II..- .'- -1. 1 1 .- everyone racers and land
lubbers alike. Donkey races, lime-and-spoon (run
Hing ,- l the road without letting the lime fall out
I ,. i1 i tug-o-war and greasy pole are some
of the activities happening on land while the racers
are out on the water. The greasy pole provides quite
a a lot of laughs as the contestants walk precari
ously along a pole covered in gr- tl 1i-t t
getto theend and pull off a flag..... i I ,I
contestants, the pole is extended over the water.
Once again the races end with all enjoying them
selves at the Jupa, discussing the day's racing
while the soca belts out of the oversized speakers
and the street vendors light up their barbecues.
This is the sort of festival where you realize, after
four days of sailing, partying and meeting some
,ll, ii i1 -h I i 1, that sometimes its more
111h11, 1 ,, i 111 i that feels real, a place that
has an authentic culture and fun people who are
out i 1. ..... All of this, and you have
the 'I, I ... and the Grenadines and
their people as the backdrop to one cool place to be
in August.


Sloops and Boats

Overall Winners


Large Decked Sloops
1) Glacier, Kenrick Patrice, Carriacou
2) Margeto, Cyril Compton, Carriacou
3) Maristella, Michael Bethel, Carriacou
Small Decked Sloops
1) Run Away, Javid McLawrence, Carriacou
2) Small Pin, Hope McLawrence, Carriacou
Long Open Boats A
1) Hurricane, Benson Patrice, Carriacou
2) Passion, Matthew Joseph, Carriacou
Long Open Boats B
1) Limbo, Allick Daniel, Bequia
2) Ace, D. Joseph, Carriacou
Stern Boats
1) Outrage, Emmanuel Bethel, Petite Martinique
2) Ghost, Cosmos Bethel, Petite Martinique
Small Open Boats A
1) Pimpy, Verol Compton, Carriacou
2) Ark Royal Roy Delisle, Petite Martinique
3) Devine, Delacey Leslie, Bequia
Small Open Boats B
1) Now 4 Now, Clayton DeRoche, Petite Martinique
2) Solo, Adrian Bethel, Petite Martinique
3) Parasite, Gerald Bethel, Petite Martinique
Small Open Boats C
1) Bad Feelings, Samuel Forde, Mayreau
2) D-Shark, Hudson Williams, Canouan
3) I'm Alive, Adolphus Forde, Mayreau
Small Open Boats D
1) Swift, Martin Alexander, Grenada
2) Endeavor, Jahvid George, Grenada
31 Classic, C. Bernadine, Grenada















REGATTA




Team T&T Tops Dinghy Champs
Teams from six different Caribbean islands, compris-
ing some 40 young sailors, competed in the
Caribbean Dinghy Championship regatta, held in
Antigua on July 19th and 20th. The event was hosted
by the Antigua Yacht Club. The Caribbean Dinghy
Championship, sanctioned by the Caribbean Sailing
Association, is held in a different country every year.
Trinidad & Tobago took home the Caribbean
Dinghy Championships' trophy for 2008, for the first

"
.-


time since the start of the event in 1985. Support by
the Sports Company of Trinidad & Tobago during the
past two years enabled the Trinidad & Tobago Sailing
Association to appoint specialist race coaches for the
Optimist and Laser class.
The best class results came from ten-year-old Myles
Kaufmann who won seven out of the nine races in the
Optimist 11-years-and-under class, taking home first prize.
Trinidad & Tobago's 18-year-old Andrew Lewis won
the Laser Standard class, holding Antigua's Sean
Malone at bay by three points. Alistair Affoo, 17, also
of T&T, had some stiff competition in the Laser Radial
class, which was won by Nicolas Rendu from
Martinique. A battle for second place between Alistair
and Ray Potter from Antigua took place on Sunday
when both sailors were tied at 19 points with one race
remaining. In the deciding race of the Championships,
Alistair managed to beat Ray in a one-on-one fight,
finishing first in the final race of the event.
Trinidad & Tobago will defend their title next year,




p rr Ir


leam i 16 win tne uanDDean iugny unamptonsitp I ropny. from teJt to ngnt: Anarew Lewis, Austarr Affoo,
Jordan Rousseau, Myles Kaufmann, Mark Peters, Joseph Moraine and coach Philip de Gannes


when the Caribbean Dinghy Championships will be
held in Martinique.
For more information on youth sailing in Trinidad &
Tobago visit www.ttsailing org.

Records Fall in Two July Fishing Events
Derek Quetel reeled in a tournament record-setting
54.11-pound kingfish at the 20TH ANNIVERSARY
BASTILLE DAY KINGFISH TOURNAMENT in St Thomas,
USVI, held on July 13th.
As Carol Bareuther reports, Quetel was fishing
aboard the 27-foot Rambo, 4 KIT 2. It was mid-morning
when the whopper hit on a ballyhoo-rigged line.
"It just blasted out of nowhere," he says. "I was cap-
taining at the time. I asked my friend to grab the wheel,
and then I turned, grabbed my rod and hooked up. I
had him in the boat in about 15 to 20 minutes."
After that, Quetel says, "We didn't see any more.
That was the last fish of the day for us."
Quetel pocketed US$2,000 in cash for his Largest
Kingfish, sponsored by N.E.M. (West Indies) Insurance
Limited, managed in the USVI by Red Hook Agencies,
Inc, and also a weekend for two at Divi Carina Bay
Beach Resort & Casino, with airline tickets compli-
ments of Seaborne Airlines.
With 12 fish (187.14-pounds) caught total, five
(124.89-pounds) of them kingfish, Quetel also won Best
Boat and Best Captain, and was awarded $1,000
cash for each title, from Offshore Marine and Yanmar.
Meanwhile, St6phane Legendre reports from
Guadeloupe that the GUADELOUPE LAND ROVER
FISHING FESTIVAL 2008, OCEAN YACHTS EDITION, dates
were changed from November to July and it
seemed to have been the right decision!
This year's catches had nothing in common with
last year's. A 122-pound tuna was landed on the first
day and a 489-pound blue marlin (validated by the
International Fishing Association) on the second day
of the four-day competition. The island's previous
blue marlin record of 409 pound was finally broken
after six years.
It took Gustavia II's Guadeloupean crew an hour
and ten minutes to hoist the blue marlin on board
after a great fight and for Franck Nouy, the owner of
Gustavia II, only ten minutes to become the owner of
a beautiful, four-wheel-drive Land Rover Defender G4.
Sixteen boats joined this year's tournament, which
ran from July 15th through 19th. Boats came from
Antigua, Saint Lucia, Martinique and Guadeloupe.
The festival was hosted by Marina Bas du Fort.
Continued on next page


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Front row from left to right: Tamika Amey, Alvin Turbe,
winning angler Derek Quetel, Steve Turbe, Ernest Quetel, Jr.
Back row: The winning total catch's 125 pounds of kingfish!


Continuedfrom previous page

The Wednesday, Thursday and Friday were full fish-
ing days, and the Saturday was dedicated to an
all-day party and relaxation at Gosier Islet beach.
Although the change from November to July
brought a great catch, the BVI hosts an internation-
al tournament at the same time, so next year's
event will be held from May 5th through 9th,
hoping for equally excellent fishing and
increased participation.
For more information on the Guadeloupe Fishing
Festival 2009 contact Jean Marie Rosemont at
(590 690) 554 662 or visit www. fishing-festival com.

Women's Keelboat Champs Set for November
The Women's Caribbean One-Design Keelboat
Championship 2008 is scheduled for November 1st
and 2nd in St. Maarten. The regatta, organized by
the Sint Maarten Yacht Club, will be sailed on a
one-design fleet of identical Sun Fast 20 boats from
Lagoon Sailboat Rentals. The regatta will either be
sailed in a two-pool format, which will result in a
final of a Gold Fleet and a Silver Fleet, or in a one-
fleet rotation of boats.
Teams are expected from Barbados, Trinidad &
Tobago, Antigua, the British Virgin Islands and possi-
bly farther afield, as well as from St. Maarten.
The regatta will be open to up to 18 teams. Each
team may only race with not less than three and
not more than four women per team on the boat.
Teams should wear co-ordinated coloured shirts or
outfits, which have the function of identifying the
teams during sailing to the committee and specta-
tors. For this reason, the shirts should be distinct
colours. The regatta will not provide for these shirts
or outfits.
Registration, welcoming party and the skippers'
briefing will be on Friday October 31st at 6:00PM, at
the Sint Maarten Yacht Club. Prizes will be awarded
after the racing on Sunday November 2nd at the
Sint Maarten Yacht Club.
For more information contact
director@bigboatseries. com.

Nix to Enter Golden Rock Regatta
The organizers of the Golden Rock Regatta, now
in its fourth year, announced the entry of the
60-foot racing sloop Nix.
The regatta starts from Great Bay, St. Maarten, on
November 10th with a pursuit race to Gustavia,


St. Barths. This will be followed on the second day
with a race to Frigate Bay, St. Kitts. After an overnight
there, the fleet continues to Statia: "The Golden
Rock". Here the fleet will stay two days and sail two
windward/leeward races before the grand finale
race from Statia back to Oyster Pond in St. Martin.
The regatta is a feature on many Dutch sailing
enthusiasts' calendars and now growing in popular-
ity with US-based sailors. Local sailors are also show-
ing interest and are already looking at their sched-
ules to take the time off to race.
This regatta has featured on the popular
European TV Sailing Channel and in many promi-
nent sailing magazines and publications.
Race organizer Jules Hermsen reported that he
has received 15 entries already, with a number of
teams forming in the USA and interest from
Germany and Belgium.
For more information contact local organizer
Bea Hootsmans at bea@goldenrockregata. com.

'Spice Girls' Prepare for Caribbean
July 25th saw the Class 40 Concise hold the first
trial for its all-female crew for the forthcoming Spice
Race from England to the Caribbean. The hopeful
"Spice Girls", Carrie Biggs, Jamie Harris and Eleanor
Littlejohn, took Concise up the Solent before per-
forming a series of spinnaker jibes back towards
their home base in the Hamble.
The Spice Race starts on November 15th from the
Royal Squadron line in Cowes, before the 4,321-mile
run to Port Louis Marina, St. George's, Grenada.
Competitors will cross the English Channel and the
Bay of Biscay and then head south along the
Atlantic coasts of France, Spain and Portugal. After
passing the Strait of Gibraltar the yachts will head
for the Canary Islands and leave La Palma to star-
board, then search for the tradewinds. Crossing the
Atlantic, they'll leave Barbados to port.
The organizers are seeking to hold "an event with-
in an event" with several National Ladies' Teams
racing against each other offshore for the first time.
Currently there are teams from England and
Holland showing interest, with a chance of addi-
tional competitors from the United States, France
and Ireland.
Meanwhile, interest in the main event for Class 40
and IRC yachts continues to build, with enquiries
coming from countries including China, Norway,
South Africa, Germany, France and the UK.
-Continued on next page


( onlati IJohn [OLlil 86.7.13.6044 876-87 1-4412
e-mail: inllo- r rrrI ll% marina.L0111 N HF Chnannell Ili
%%%%%%.e.rr ril II IN nnmar rina.t oml











... . .. : . . f r. :
ries from people who want to charter boats and individu-
als looking for crew positions, both paid and paying.
For more information on the Spice Race visit www.
spicerace com or contact Tony Lawson at Lawson@
longdene.co.uk.
Aruba Heineken Beach Cat Regatta
The Aruba Heineken Catamaran Regatta 2008 will
take place from the 13th to the 23rd of November.
Approximately 50 catamaran teams are expected to
compete. The Dutchmen Eduard van Zanen and
Mischa Heemskerk claimed the title in 2007 after a
tough competition. They will compete again this year
to defend their title.
The program will be one day longer this year, to
make nine days in all, so that the mainly European
contestants will have more time to acclimatize.
A total of 12 races will be spread over five competi-
tion days. These races vary from short to (semi) long-
distance races along the beautiful Aruban coast and
through the challenging lagoon.
The organization is expecting participants from the
Netherlands, Belgium, France, Germany, Austria,
Switzerland and the UK. This year local teams from
Aruba will participate, and probably some from the
United States as well.
Itis now possible to register on the new website
www arubaregata.nl. For more information contact
Edwin Lodder at info@arubaregafta.nl
Transatlantic Maxi Yacht Cup 2008
Originally conceived in 2007 as a biennial event, the
Transatlantic Mad Yacht Cup will take place in 2008
based on the success of the inaugural event held last
fall, and early inquiries suggest a number of boats are
already making plans to challenge for the title.
Organized by the Yacht Club Costa Smeralda (YCCS),
the starting gun for the 2008 Transatlantic Maxi Yacht
Cup will sound on Monday, November 24, in Santa
Cruz de Tenerife (the largest of the seven Canary
Islands off the northwest coast of Africa), setting the
Mads racing across the North Atlantic Ocean. It should
take them roughly two weeks to reach the finish line off
the island of Sint Maarten in the Netherlands Antilles.
Two Maxis which have submitted their 2008 entry
forms are Sojana, the 115-foot Farr-designed
Bermudian ketch owned by Peter Harrison (GBR), and
Bossanova, the Simonis 67 belonging to YCCS mem-
ber Pietro Motta (ITA). Sojana is familiar with victory in


Caribbean waters having won the St. Barth Bucket
(2007) as well as the St. Martin Heineken Regatta
(2008, 2007). She will be looking to improve on her
second-place real time finish behind Nariida, the
Wally owned by Morten Bergesen (NOR), who took
line honors in the 2007 inaugural event.
The Transatlantic Mad Yacht Cup is promoted by
the International Maxi Association (IMA), with YCCS
organizing the regatta in collaboration with the Real
Club Ndutico de Tenerife for the start and the Sint
Maarten Yacht Club for the finish. It is open to
monohull Maxi yachts with a minimum overall length
of 18 metres (59 feet) that are in compliance with the
IMA's five division regulations (Racing, Cruising, Wally,


Spirit of Tradition and Mini Mad).
The Notice of Race can be found at www yccs.it/
portal/regatta.php?eveniid= 142&target=noficeofrace.
Kayak Race Series Coming
The Caribbean Mini-Tour of 2008 consists of two kayak
races. The Soualiga Challenge, a well-established
25-kilometre race from St. Barths to St. Maarten across
the open water of the St Barths channel, will be held on
September 28th, followed by the Defis Guadeloupe on
October 4th and 5th, which will have a new course this
year, starting at Desirade Island and finishing in St.
Frangois on the south coast of Guadeloupe.
Continued on next page


Open water kayak racing is an up-and coming sport. The Caribbean Mini-Tour 2008 includes
a St Barths-to-St Maarten leg, plus a new coursefrom Desirade to Guadeloupe


Simplicity.





Reliability.





Long life.












Continuedfrom previous page
The races have been planned to slot in
immediately after the US Championships, to
allow paddlers to compete in San Francisco,
come down to the Caribbean, and then con-
tinue to the Mayor's Cup in New York later
in October.
Interest for 2008 has been high, with commit-
ted paddlers from the Caribbean region, the
USA, France, South America and Sweden show-
ing interest.
For more information :: : .: . : :,
at thebrowns@domacc :: :
Tanton at otanton@gmail com.

Third Superyacht Cup Antigua
The third Superyacht Cup Antigua will be held
from December 9th through 12th, in Nelson's
Dockyard, English Harbour, Antigua. The event
is timed to follow on from the Antigua Yacht
Charter Show, December 4th through 9th.
This year, ten to 12 yachts are expected to
take part, and already confirmed is the recent-
ly launched P2, the 38-metre (125-foot) sloop
designed by Philippe Briand and built by Perini
Navi. Last year's winner, Sojana, the 35-metre
ketch owned by Peter Harrison, will be back to
defend her title.
For more information visit
www thesuperyachtcup.com.
Calling All Tall Ships!
West Indies Events and the St. Maarten-St.
Martin Classic Yacht Regatta Foundation are
inviting all Tall Ships to come to St. Maarten in
January 2009. A special course for those vessels
has been added in the fourth classic regatta,
which will be held during the third week of
January. The Tall Ships will not have to pay a
fee to participate in the St. Maarten-St. Martin
Classic Yacht Regatta.
The fourth Invitational St. Maarten-St. Martin
Classic Yacht Regatta 2009 kicks off on
Thursday January 22nd with a skippers' briefing
and official opening ceremony. Sailing starts
the next day, racing from Great Bay to Marigot
where the yachts will be the guests of
Fort Louis Marina.
Saturday will be the special Tall Ships Day when
all classics and the Tall Ships will start at Marigot


*p. VI *

. '
4
"I

.. '
L.4


Tall ships like Caledonia will be a special attraction at the
St. Maarten St. Marin Classic Yacht regatta in January


and sail towards the finish line in Great Bay.
Organizers received the authorization from the
Sint Maarten Port Authorities to dock the Tall
Ships at the Pointe Blanche cruise ship pier so
that passengers can disembark and an
onboard VIP reception can be held that
Saturday evening after the race. The general
public will have the opportunity to visit the
ships on Sunday morning while they are in
Great Bay.
The regular schooners, vintage, spirit of tradi-
tion and classic yachts in the regatta will set sail
again that Sunday morning for the last regatta
day, towards Anguilla and return to the finish in
Great Bay in the afternoon.
A promotional version of the 2008 regatta
documentary has been published at
www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ad-iD92BtCw.
For more information visit
www.ClassicRegatta.com.
International Rolex Regatta 2009
The 36th running of the International Rolex
Regatta is sure to build on its past successes,
which this year included the addition of IRC
racing and joining with the BVI Spring Regatta
to offer the inaugural Virgin Islands Race Week.
With next year's racing scheduled for Friday,
March 27 through Sunday, March 29, the
International Rolex Regatta is one of the most
popular of several Caribbean sailing events
that, when strung together, can keep a hard-
core, fun-loving racer occupied in the islands
for the better part of two months. While it is part
of the US-IRC Gulf Stream Series, the event also
hosts classes for CSA (or "Caribbean Rule") rac-
ing as well as one-designs, beach cats and
large multihulls.
"We've proudly hosted this regatta since
1974," says William Newbold, Commodore of
St. Thomas Yacht Club. "Over three days, the
finest yachtsmen and yachtswomen from
around the Caribbean, United States, and
Europe join in world-class racing in a spectac-
ular environment, which includes the warm,
clear waters surrounding our club. It's an
adventurous way to get a jump on their sum-
mer sailing season.
For more information
visit www rolexcupregatta. com.


A warm welcome awaits you and your yacht at Port Louis


Port Louis, Grenada
Nowhere extends a warmer welcome than Port Louis, Grenada. Visitors can expect
powder-white beaches, rainforests, spice plantations and a calendar packed with
regattas and festivals. Grenada is also the gateway to the Grenadines, one of the
world's most beautiful and unspoilt cruising areas.
Now there's another good reason to visit. There are 50 new fully serviced slips for yachts
of all sizes up to 90m available right now for sale or rental.
Sitting alongside the marina, the forthcoming Port Louis Maritime Village will include luxury
hotels, villas, restaurants and bars, plus some of the finest boutiques and shops in the region.


Limited availability
Slips are available for sale or rental. For a private consultation to discuss
the advantages of slip ownership, please contact our International Sales Manager,
Anna Tabone, on +356 2248 0000 or email anna.tabone@cnmarinas.com
To fully appreciate this rare opportunity, we highly recommend a visit. To arrange an
on-site meeting please contact our Sales and Marketing Co-ordinator, Danny Donelan
on +1(473) 435 7432 or email danny.donelan@cnportlouismarina.com


Grenada Camper &
Sailingq N;chsons
Festival YACHTING SNCE 172
>-sraof.,-f MARINAS


WEST INDIES


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' GRENADA
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M E and the missus, Yvonne, aboard
Chaser II, and our friends Chris and
STony on Waylander cruised the
Greater Antilles this past winter. We made our way
via the south coast of the Dominican Republic to Ile
a-Vache, Haiti and then to Jamaica before arriving at
this year's westernmost destination, Cuba.
We had sailed to the Greater Antilles direct from
Venezuela on our 44-foot Hunter Legend Deck Saloon.
During the three-day crossing from Isla Blanquilla to
Casa de Campo Marina in the Dominican Republic we
encountered some bad weather, and our thoughts at
that time had already turned to our return trip to
Venezuela. Would it be easiest to hop down the island
chain, or sail east to Puerto Rico then across to
Blanquilla, or maybe even go east to the Dominican
Republic and then across to Curacao or Bonaire?
Any of these routes involved working against the
wind and current. No way did we want to encounter
the weather we'd ha i ...... .. i, 1 so we again made
every effort to get a .. i -erring on the side
of caution. Yes, we're sailors and some would say we
shouldn't concern ourselves about a storm or two.
Ordeal or adventure: its a state of mind. Maybe, but
Yvonne and I are here to enjoy ... ..... experiences
not to punish ourselves and our i ... have all the
adventure we need.
On our way to Cuba we had stopped in the Errol
Flynn Marina in Port Antonio on the eastern end of
Jamaica. In the greenest part of Jamaica, it is beauti
ful. (Ironically, like Trinidad, Venezuela and Haiti,
Jamaica had been on a list we were once given of
places to avoid.) At that time we could only stay a
couple of days, so our route south had to include a
return visit.
Many years ago, the film star and yachtsman Errol
Flynn was captivated by the Port Antonio area and
reportedly commented that it was more beautiful than


Above: Only 300 metres from the marina, Tony dinghies over a pretty reef in Port Antonio

Below: The main channel entrance
any woman he had seen (and legend has it he made
efforts to see a few). The actor once owned a hotel in
Port Antonio and his widow still resides here on a
2000-acre ranch that she manages herself. As a trib
ute to the 1"~ch-hilliin icon who starred in movies
such as "C .... i I "In the Wake of the Bounty"
and "The Sea Hawk", the owners of the marina at Port
Antonio changed its name during a refurbishment to
Errol Flynn Marina.
The entrance to the bay is absolutely stunning; the
colours of the reef, the water, the vegetation and the
mountains are breathtaking. As you turn the corner,
the marina appears with Navy Island on one side and
a small deserted beach on the other. It is totally pro
tected from the wind and waves.
Errol Flynn Marina is a 32 slip yacht complex that
accommodates vessels up to 350 feet LOA with a
maximum depth of 17 feet. It also boasts 1 1
three phase power and shore storage and is .1
port of entry !. I i. ..... ...I ....... i ........ .
Boat repairs I .............. i .1 I 11. h-11
service boatyard, which features a 100 ton boatlift,
the only one of its kind in this part of the Caribbean.
The marina also has free WiFi something that's
often not mentioned.
We were surprised that the marina is not continue
ally full, but slips were available on both our visits.

Continued on next page


marina international
n El Morro Tourist Complex n Puerto La Cruz n Venezuela

Lat. 10 12' 24"N Long. 64 40' 5'7W


No hurricanes 270sq. miles of calm seas Full amenities
Phone: (58-281) 267-7412 Fax: (58-281) 2677-810 VHF Channel 71 Web page:
http://bahiaredonda.com.ve E-Mail: brmi@cantv.net


- , -




r IS U


THE CRUISING SAILOR'S CHANDLERY SINCE 1990

AMERON ABC 3 TIN FREE SELF POLISHING ANTIFOULING PAINT
CORNER: MIRANDA & GUARAGUAO, PUERTO LA CRUZ, VENEZUELA
TEL: 58 (281) 265-3844 E-MAIL: xanadumarine@cantv.net


k ll












Continuedfrom previous page
For those who prefer, the 1;;--r.. superb, and A
for a small fee the amenitie' I II ... .....-. (swimming
pool, laundry, etcetera) are available. George, the dock
master, and Dale, the marina manager, personally wel-
come all new arrivals and are on hand whenever you
need assistance.
Within the marina area you can walk along to the
small, underutilized cruise ship dock. The little beach
by the dock is beautiful and there is a lovely bar and
.--t r .t l-ni1 The landscaping is gorgeous.
iI I,,i I yards across the water is Navy
Island, Errol Flynn's former Paradise. Here once was a
beautiful hotel, pool, bar and restaurant with white
sandy beaches overlooking the Caribbean. Now all the
buildings are derelict, the gardens overgrown, and
beaches difficult to access.
Although there have been rumours of plans to make
the whole area, not just Navy Island, more commer
cialized, like many other resort areas in Jamaica,
many people would like to see it remain as it is. For the
moment, this really is a jewel in the Caribbean.
Outside the marina gates is a lovely, picture postcard
Caribbean town, with maybe a touch of Olde England.
There are bright colours, mostly well tended houses and
shops, street vendors and markets, good bars and
quaint eateries. It's safe to walk the streets, day or night,
and the local people always have time for a chat.
Time went very quickly here, and it is somewhere we Above: Outside the marina gates is a picture postcard Caribbean town
could have stayed longer. We did a lot of walking
Left: A well sheltered, nicely landscaped marina with
free WiFn, no less we were pleased to get a slip here
both times we visited


around the town, the beaches and the fort. We traveled
by car to some of the local sights of the Port Antonio
area, seeing some attractive bays that may not quite
be suitable for an overnight anchorage. On the beach
we sampled some local barbecued jerk chicken that
1 houl i . .11 i i
-Ih .I T to . .. I I ... .... I I I
sauce in a pot to take away. We have it on board in a
glass jar and it doesn't seem to have eaten through the
glass yet.
Tony and Sharon, whose yacht Hoojbeats was also in
the marina, suggested we all go on a river rafting trip.
Yvonne and I had been: .II.... ... =zuela, but that
was in white water I II .11i but over very
quickly. Here the river trip is more relaxed. In fact,
there are times when the river is too high and the water
-A running too fast and the rafting has to be cancelled.
What a great, r l1in l ay we all had! Our trip was
a very leisurely -Ihl I the river with two passen
S- i i 1. i i. the "driver". It's pretty much
1111 I i, ..Ii .i. ... I an hours drive by taxi there
and the same home again. The river trip itself is about
three hours, with a lunch stop on the riverbank.
The lunch was superb: nothing fancy or touristy. A
girl on the shore prepared and barbecued chicken and
fish, and served it with rice and beans, for anyone
passing. She had a couple of tables and benches and
a cold box for beers. The prices were good, too, even
i .. I believe we passengers paid for our "chauf
meals and drinks.
Continued on next page





Your Marine Store at Venezuela and the Caribbean More power less noise
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Marine to the automatic pitch control

Chandler Heavy duty made to last
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V.EEZUELAN I.1ARP I E SERVICE. C.A.


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E-ma: saks@inn M=swM fenqM (Sxn at Cafmilo's Manma at the beach)















After lunch we plunged into the river for a cool-down
and a swim no swimsuits necessary here. No, you
don't go naked: just go in the clothes you're wearing.
They dry in minutes and meanwhile help keep you cool
back on the raft.


and set off.
Our decision was to steer slightly south of east. That
way, if the i. i .- .-. ... and the condi
tions not -... .1 i .11 . we could turn
north to the Dominican Republic and wait there until
things improved.


A superb lunch was prepared on the riverbank: nothing fancy or touristy


Bring a hat or some shade: there is none on the raft
and very little breeze. You might also need some bug
spray ifyou're prone to attack.
This eastern part of Jamaica really is precious: prob
ably one of most attractive areas -if not the most
attractive -we've been to in the Caribbean so far. We
really didn't want to leave, but with the thought of our
easterly trip ahead, leave we must.
We were constantly watching the weather on the
internet and also talking to weather guru Chris Parker
on the radio. A weather window opened which looked
good for the next few days. It predicted ten knots of
wind and calmish seas -when it's on the nose we
don't want any more. So, we said our good-byes to the
marina staff and newly acquired friends in the marina


As it turned out, 36 hours out of Jamaica, the sea
was still kind, there were only ten knots of wind and
there was little current against us. Our GRIB files were
hn"inrf that these conditions would stay for the next
i i .- so we hung a right and headed direct to
Curacao.
After four days and nearly 600 miles we arrived in
Curacao, having had an unbelievably comfortable
motorsail all the way, averaging just over 150 miles
per day. Yes, we had to motor to help us point, but we
nij-1~ thE trip.
I in Curacao for a week or so to see some
...- do a bit of retail therapy and visit the chan
11 I managed to get the new blades for my wind
genny after a bird attack, and gathered a few other bits


and pieces that we might find hard to get elsewhere.
The meat market was good, too -they had some great
ribs and sausage. But our fridge and freezer were still
full of wine and lobster, so we had to frantically eat
shellfish and drink wine for the next few days to
accommodate some of these beautiful porkies. The
cruising life is tough, aye!
Just across the road from -.r n-.-h-r- in Spanish
Waters was a small beach .11 I .,,h 1111 clear water.
There is also a sunken tugboat, which makes for inter
testing -l1--li;n. and diving. The crews of Waylander
and I r ,, who accompanied us, are certified
PADI open water divers. Yvonne and I weren't yet, so
we decided to take a try-out dive with the others. It
would count towards our course if we decided to con
tinue. Our weather window to move on would open in
three or four days time, so we just had time to do the
course. It was a hard three days, diving in the morn
ings and t.l-i;n -1]'-, in the afternoon plus getting
the boat: I i ... .. off, but we did it. Downtown
Diving was the dive school, right on the beach: our
instructor was excellent and the price was good.
We wanted to arrive back in Venezuela by the begin
ning of June. Yvonne had to fly back to Spain by the
10th to take part in the Moors and Christians Fiesta
(it's like a smaller version of Trinidad Carnival), to see
our son and then go on to the UK to see her father and
our daughter.
I don't know why we bother planning anything. We
should have learnt by now, because we always end up
doing something else. Our "plan" had been to visit the
islands of Bonaire, Las Aves, Los Roques and Tortuga
on our way back to Puerto La Cruz. But then some
people we met in 1 ... .. regular travel
ers back and fort . I 1. .i .i .- lar better when
going east to coast-hop along the Venezuelan main
land, avoiding strong currents and headwinds.
So we headed southeast from Curacao to Ensa Cata.
After spending the night there, we were up early the
next morning to sail to Marina Carabelleda. Our next
overnight stop was Carenero, then Islas Piritu only 20
miles west of Puerto La Cruz. Coast-hopping worked
for us. We had some of the t - .,1,,,. we had in a
long time pretty much all the ... I.1 .
the Venezuelan coast to Puerto La Cr n. *i,,,
seas and sunshine we made seven to eight knots over
the ground under sail. Plus we stayed upright -in a
monohull. All 11. .... .li stops were good anchor
ages, some in ... i.11i i ar waters with some gor
geous coral and beautiful fish. The snorkelling was
excellent in Ensa Cata -we'll go there again if passing
that way.
We still plan to cruise the outer Venezuelan islands;
maybe we'll visit them heading westwards and then
return to Puerto La Cruz, coast hopping again.
Now, back in Puerto La Cruz, we have traveled more
than 3,500 miles since our departure from here last
November. We had some great times in amazing plac
es. Did I mention the fishing? We had some good
dorado, lots of barracuda, wahoo and a great marlin!
And we had good company on this trip, making it even
more enjoyable.
That's what we're here for.


You can read more about Phil and Yvonne's travels on
Chaser II at blog.mailasail.com/chaser2.













e island of St. Thomas in the US Virgin Islands has a large mangrove lagoon
at its southeast end. No motorized boats are allowed in the lagoon except
during a hurricane, because it is a wildlife and marine sanctuary. We found
this out while exploring in our dinghy
one day and being turned back at the
entrance to the lagoon. '
Most of the area is very shallow and
we wanted to look it over to see if we* '
could get our boat in there in case of a
storm. So how could we check it out?
Maybe by kayak. We have an inflatable
kayak, but it looked like it might be dif
ficult to find a place where we could go A A
ashore to inflate and launch it. Then we
learned of a venture called Virgin Islands
Ecotours (www.viecotours.com). They
run kayak, snorkeling and hiking tours
in the mangroves from a small estab-
lishment near the entrance to the lagoon
-a perfect solution.
We made a reservation for a tour,
docked our dinghy at the Yacht Haven
Grande dinghy dock, and caught a safari
bv t- th- "nMr--- Lagoon Eco Center.
i ... iI .. I guide, Frank Galdo,
was extremely knowledgeable about the
mangroves and life forms therein. As he
explained, the lagoon contains the red
mangrove (Rhizophora mangle), so called because the roots are red, especially when
wet. The trees grow pods that are self-propagating -when one drops off the tree,
the top has tiny leaves ready to unfold and the bottom has a root ready to grab a
toehold as soon as it touches bottom. The pod can float until this happens and, in
this manner, the red mangrove has spread from Africa to many tropical waters of
the Earth.
[[[[ ......


We beached the kayaks on a little spit of sand on one of the mangrove islands,
Cas Cay, donned masks and fins and took a snorkel tour. The bottom was sandy
rather than muddy as is so often the case in mangroves, so visibility was good. We
saw lots of fish, especially around the
remains of an old wreck. The most
Then -h numerous were snappers and parrot
fish, as well as angelfish and damself
ish. Most were small, but we saw one
angelfish as big as a platter. Frank
pointed out a spiny lobster and also an
octopus. The octopus was so well cam
ouflaged that I couldn't see him even
when Frank pointed to him. I spotted
some movement on one rock as I swam
past, like something retracting into the
rock to avoid detection. Exactly the
color of the rock, but with an eye giving
himself away, he opened his jaw to
reveal a double line of jagged teeth it
was an eel.
Overhead we saw a frigate bird soar
ing, watching for a seagull to catch a
fish that he could steal. *' ., I *rds
have no oil on their skin co I .II to
protect them in the water; they will
drown. So they dive at another bird
with a catch, hoping he will drop it.
Then the frigate bird will try to snatch it
before it falls into the water; if it does make it to the water, he tries to quickly scoop
it up without getting wet.
Back at the beach, Frank passed around mini Snickers bars and water. He walked
us a short distance along a path in the mangroves and pointed out a tree the locals
call The Poor Man's Lover because the leaves are shaped like hearts. The tree bears
a beautiful yellow blossom with a deep red center which lasts only a short time, then
is replaced by a small, black pod filled with seeds that falls to the ground to
germinate and sprout another tree. At the shoreline was another plant called
lady's slipper, one small leaf of which provides enough Vitamin C for about
90 percent of a person's required daily amount. Sailors once used it to pre
vent scurvy.
Then we retraced our steps to the kayaks, pulled them back into the water,
boarded and started back to base. Frank gave us leave to head back without
any stops or lectures and encouraged bumper kayaks, = i- -:. *nd gen
eral good fun. It was an interesting and enjoyable excun I', Ia good
time and learned a lot to boot.
And, yes, we can get our boat into the mangroves in the event of a hurricane.


... ..


Main photo: A kayak tour is a wonderfilled way to explore the mangroves

As th- m n.r- puts down roots, sediment and debris are captured until eventu-
ally 1 ... .I .... I Tiny fish hatchlings and other aquatic creatures find protection
among the roots. We saw silversides and a tiny inch-and-half-long barracuda. Birds
take refuge in the higher branches, safe from land predators. The i.11 ..... -1 ,,, of
the roots also prevents the soil run-off and w :t :- f. r-1,; -- .i
. ... .. i various other plants, ... .. i. I ... plant that grows
or. 11. I I ... I ... - mund, green balls on the end of a short stalk. These are called
(non-scientifically) sailor's eye. A most interesting creature that inhabits the lagoon
is the upside-down jellyfish (Cassiopea xamachana). It has very short tentacles that
attach to the bottom to anchor it. Then it grows algae that other creatures feed on.


According to Nancy & Simon Scott's Cruising Guide to the Virgin
Islands, yachts drawing up to six feet have access to the Lagoon,
the best hurricane shelter on St. Thomas













-UPCHANDLER


ES BARDYN Ciarlo DECKER












t DESTINATIONS




CUBA, THE SECOND TIME AROUND


UNIDAD, FIRMEZA

r VICTORIA

MIIIIIWPIIIi Iii muGIIO mI 11 lUiwtI


by Bernie Katchor
U R T first cruise in Cuba was along the
S south coast in May and June
0 U IL A V2007 (see "Cuba: Fair Winds and
Friendly Faces", Compass, September 2007). While
there, we Australians were issued with USA visas at
the "enormous" USA embassy in Havana. Then we
sailed our ... .. Endeavour 43 ketch, Australia
31, up to N .... I 11. summer.
After hurricane season, Cuba and her wonderful
people enticed my wife Yvonne and me to return. We
had an enjoyable sail back to Cuba's north coast,
where we stopped in one of the many well-sheltered
-i--T.1- --;;t rn mil frDm Havana. There, out of
-- 1 1- 1- for
.. I Ib .11, ..I n ly
allows visiting yachts two months before they have to
exit, but we had friends from Australia arriving to join
us in over two months time -hence our i..
have since learned that a boat only has to L
hours to obtain another two months' stay.
Continued on next page


YANNAE


Above: A rural billboard heralds the 50th anniversary of the Cuban Revolution: unity, firmness, victory
Below: Our floting home, anchored near the lighthouse at Cayo Jutias

.I





II
I *R -A At L .


FRED MARINE Guadeloupe F.W.I.


VJMdY


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Breakdown service 24/7 Anodes,Shaft bearings Vacuum cleaner for water
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Equipment for rent Primers and Antifouling International
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TSU
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W- --


l I












continued from previous page
The first day at anchor, the crew of one of the local
lobster boats there, .- ... 1 1 1 ..... 1 1 ... 1
then anchored ne i i ... i i
to the government i i -, i i 11,
approximately ter ... ... ...
the lobster, whicl -. i i .i ,,1, 1 .,,
vast tourist-resort ....
Cubans are not -..ii ., i I ,.
but we encouraged i I i .... i,,,,
in their dinghy. T i ,, i ....,, ,, ,
dated 30 to 50-ft I ... i I i
ing, which expanc i .
pop off the hulls.


\' u J


From the thrift stores in the US and from friends, we
had collected a forward cabin full of clothing, as well
as 1946 Chevy parts and other goods sent by Miami
Cubans for their families. We handed out little dresses
and shorts for the fishermen's children, gifts totally
beyond their ability to buy on the equivalent of US$15
a month they earn.
A second group of fishermen came over with a slab
of spotted eagle ray and some turtle meat. We were
aghast that such beautiful sea creatures were killed,
but the Cubans pointed out they could not eat lobster
every day for a month. We soon discovered that the ray
has a heavy-textured, non fishy flavour, while turtle
tastes of wild chicken.
Privately owned boats owned before the Revolution


in 1959 are allowed to fish, providing the owner pays
certain taxes. So a 17 footer with a single cylinder
Chinese diesel would often come pop popping by and
offer us fish and the captain almost became bellig
erent when Yvonne offered him a gift in return.
Thus, altho '.i, i i ..... i
we cleared in, ,I -1 1,1 1,11 i .,i i1 0,
miles to "' rin Hri----- --- ihi is about 15 miles to
the west I i .. -,, .ii .,, 'raft are not allowed
into Hav.... i, .i ..,. i- 11 ... i -- a strong northerly
makes the entrance to Hemingway untenable.
Calling the marina on VHF channel 72, we were
directed to the "checking in wharf'. Many yachties
become frustrated with Cuba's check-in processes, but
we find it enjoyable to meet all the delightful people


Left: A habanera watches from her balcony as Cuba
slowly changes

who step .1 ... ... .i, ir boots (tell that to
the USA .-1.,., 1 ,, -1 .... ... elderly doctor who
sat with .,- i,,,,i ,,,. I .1 -1 ,g questions about
our health and completing the paperwork in triplicate
after we loaned (then gave) him a pen. The rest of the
officials waited patiently on the wharf. The vet was
next. He asked about rats and any vermin, then invited
us to his house. The three Customs officers followed
and, after they asked permission for it to do so, a sniff
ing dog then spent 20 minutes gallivanting about our
boat. One of the officers, who made me follow him
every minute as he "searched" our boat, even pulled
out some drawers and looked inside. The port master
followed. Then port officials, after giving us a receipt,
held our flares, which were returned as we checked out
of the Marina. The total cost of entry, i-l'-1; 1; the
second month's Immigration extension, v .- I -I
We had all sorts of goods for Cubans i. .... -.,
Havana and, in one case, tni- th ibht -1 I I
family .-li2;= ; ;'--- parts i ......... i ,1.- 1946
Chevrol I ., I a week to accept everyone's hos
vitality and see the wonders of the old city. It saddened
me that our new Cuban friends were not allowed
closer than 100 yards to our boat so we could not
return their generous hospitality.
However, they love their country and their families
are very close. Although they all complained about
their predicament of low salaries and rigid government
controls (the same as you and I complain about our
governments), I asked many people whether, if they
could escape as a family tomorrow, they would leave.
Continued on next page


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Continued from previous page
Only one family of the dozen I asked this question
said yes. The others hope things will change. We were
told of one recent change: Raul Castro, Fidel's brother,
now allows Cubans to stay at the resort hotels. "At a
hundred and twenty dollars a night, this means if I


same journey. My friend got out with me and told me
never to talk again in a Cuban taxi. The next taxi took
us the seven miles at five pesos a person.
The prices at resorts, hotels and tourist-oriented
restaurants are generally the same as in the USA.
Most tourists, including hundreds from the USA, are


When it came time to leave Havana and Hemingway
Marina, we took Australia 31 back to the check-in
wharf. We checked out for the most western port of
entry and intermediate ports. Boats have to check in
and out of every port, so although we knew we would
not get as far as Maria La Gorda we put this as our
destination and on our list named every bay in
between so we could visit them if 1 1
Customs searched our boat and I. .I ...
upset when I asked if they were looking for Cubans
when a drawer was pulled out. A long explanation in
rapid Spanish that I did not understand made me real
i "' ... i I .i. ... ..our was uncalled for.
S i ... and wound our way in
i i i .. .. . I I ntera aboard a fast ciga
S .... l d us it was a forbidden
1, .. iI i ..... t move about ten miles.
i I i .... i, .,. i i been stolen from visiting
S.... i ii .. i ,ded up in Florida.


P--





work for seven months I will earn enough to stay one
night," one Cuban said, laughing.
Cuba has one currency for the Cubans (pesos), and
another currency for tourists and all luxury items: the
CUC or Cuban convertible. Twenty-four Cuban pesos
equal one CUC. Sadly, "luxury items" include tooth
paste, soap and many items of clothing. A Cuban
earning 300 Cuban pesos a month has to eat before
converting any of his pesos to CUC to buy clothes or
toiletries. Thus, these items are virtually unobtainable
to the locals unless they go outside the system ille
gally to make money, as most do.
To our delight, as we bought local pesos, an eight
inch pizza cooked in a converted 55-gallon drum on a
street corner cost the equivalent of 20 cents. An ice
cream, also made on a street corner with a little gas
engine driving the compressor, cost one cent.
There are even Cuban-only taxis, in which a ride
costs five local pesos. When one of our friends hailed
a Cuban-only shared taxi, the driver heard I was for
eign and put me out, telling me he could be jailed for
carrying me. He informed me that I should take a tour
ist taxi, which costs 10 CUC (48 times the cost) for the


Above: Who needs DJs? As .... .
real live musicians play eL ..... i ... ...


sequestered in all-inclusive res( ... ... '' ...
Cubans except the staff. Again i .. i .....
when we stopped by a resort's i., I i..
man would accept our money, "'in? it '"1' included.
In the USA, a dentist quoted :.. -: I -- for a new
bridge. In the excellent Cuban government dental
clinic, the first dentist who saw me said repair was
impossible. But then a I i.i.1,11,1 elderly professor
(watched by five students) i ', broken teeth with
posts and cemented the bridge back in. It took two
hours and cost US$25.


We explored the ii .. II ... .I e met
Sandra, a delightful i .. ... I .... i ...- 11 com
plain about the lack of food, but we did not see skinny
ones.) She cooked us an evening meal on three occasions
and we gave her clothing and 1 ...
Cuba has unlimited shelter, i .,, I .11
the beaches and enjoying our favourite pastime, bird
watching, were rewarding as was exploring far up
mangrove creeks in the dinghy.
Soon it was time to sail to Varadero to collect our first
guests. Sailing overnight to Varadero we found that the
coastline east of Havana was wall-to-wall towns.
Continued on next page












variety of vegetables from their garden.
Recently Cuban people have been allowed to grow
vegetables to sell at the new markets, independent of
the usual government-controlled system. Up until
now, Cubans had little incentive to grow food at the
pittance paid by the government, thus most of the
fertile land was left lying unproductive. In the country


Continuedfrom previous page
As we sailed only four miles offshore, the path was easy
to follow. We decided to check in at Gaviota Marina as
it is 12 miles northeast and to windward of the marina
at Varadero. Formalities here were repeated: Customs,
...... n (via Mexico, as Mr.
Bush needs the Miami Cuban votes) and more for
malities occurred as they were searched by Customs
and added to the crew list by Immigration. It is easy to
have US guests aboard in Cuba: passports are never
stamped -you are just issued a visa on a separate
document. Passengers' names are removed from the
crew list and their luggage searched as they leave. As
we had six such ---n and goings, we made good
friends of the i i, .1,,,I authorities. Paperwork is
Cuba. It takes three receipts to buy diesel, but at far
less than USA prices it is worth the effort.
Each time we sailed with our guests eastward from
Gaviota Marina in sheltered waters. Yvonne and I
really enjoyed showing them how we have spent and
enjoyed the last 15 years cruising. Highlights were
actually having Cuban fishermen aboard to a rum
party. We had stocked up with ten litres of local rum.
The b:.. 1 .. 1.i )m had a great barrel of it and
every:... i .11 i Cubans of all shapes, sexes and
ages cycled or walked up with a container and rum
was measured into it in 100ml lots for about ten cents.
As we bought sixty 100ml lots six litres for US$8
-there was a long 1.,, 1,,.. line of locals waiting.
Cubans have to wait I .I buses, hours for bread
or rice, and never seem to complain.
Lobster and fish were showered upon us although
they were easy to catch. One guest hauled in a fish
over ten pounds every ten minutes as we sailed. Any
large fish along Cuba's north coast can have ciguatera,
whereas the south coast does not have this problem,
Any fish we caught weighing over four pounds were
returned to the ocean.
The Guardia Frontera officials were rowed out to us
on commandeered fishing boats and checked our
papers as we progressed eastward. The north coast, as
compared to the south of Cuba, where we cruised last
year, seemed to have more officials and we were not
allowed to visit many towns on the mainland. To
explore some towns, we used the excuse that we
needed food, but at one town this excuse was rejected.
Disappointed, we went the five miles back to Australia
31. Four hours later, three young men arrived, pad


--_





dling a vessel very common in Cuba. Two large inner side, we saw and bought from many private vegetable
tubes were cut and had the ends sewn to keep the air farms. In the towns, one has to buy what is available.
in. A wooden frame with two sets of rowlocks was tied On one day the market will have potatoes and beans,
to the long inflated tubes. We often saw these craft the next a great variety of fruits and veggies. It depends
miles out at sea. These lads brought us an enormous who comes to sell. Food is more readily available since


the legal allowing of private farms.
Every shop is owned by the government -full stop.
In one shop, we saw a woman with a sewing machine,
along with a bookkeeper to take the money for her
work. Such are the inefficiencies of communism. Both
I L salary of about US$15 a month. Medical care is
. and of a good standard, however. Each month


some food is subsidized, but not enough to last a per
son the whole month. For example, five eggs are
allowed per person each month, but any extra are
purchased at about five times the subsidized price.
Because we had to base at Varadero to meet our
arriving groups of friends, we did not get far along
the north coast. Our highlight was a week traveling
by car, intensely bird watching with two friends who
are professional ....i 1 ., -- and a Cuban orni
thologist who is t ... I, I book on the birds of
Cuba. We saw 101 of Cuba's 300 birds, including
many of the endemics.
Cuba is a true delight with friendly people. It is the
safest country we have ever been in. As we sailed north
again to avoid the 2008 hurricane season, we both
agreed to return for a third visit in November. We plan
to sail farther east along the northern coast -slowly,
very slowly, enjoying the hundreds of islands.

See more of the adventures of Bernie and Yvonne on
Australia 31 at www.berniekatchor.com.


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Above: The Cuban fishermen we encountered were friendly and generous

Below: At La Esperanza, privately ownedfishing boats are kept closed inside this 'cage' at night


I

















My wife Yvonne and I aboard Chaser II and our
friends Chris and Tony on Waylander toured Cuba for
a few weeks recently. Arriving from Jamaica, we
cleared in at the south coast port of Cienfuegos (see
our story in last month's Compass).
A lot has been written about Cuba during the past
months, but we all have different experiences and
interpret -r-ir -'ltures differently. So this is my
summary I '....- which I hope will be of interest
to those planning to visit Cuba.
Cienfuegos
Cienfuegos is the town where we based ourselves. It
is central to the areas we wanted to visit by car and a
safe place to leave the boat. The marina staff was help
ful, and there is a small shop for basic supplies, as
well as a bar. Taxis can be called from the main road
nearby. Within a short walk there are several bars and
restaurants, ranging from the elegant to the roadside
fast-food-type diner. The old Club Nautico (yacht club)
and the amazingly ornate Palacio de Valle are within
walking distance from the marina. Both of these
remarkable buildings are open to the public to either
walk round or dine. The prices for such decadence are
quite average -as is the food.
Ask around and you find out the best paladares
(private homes where meals can be bought). In town
there is a fruit and vegetable market, which also sells
fresh meat. It has a small bar inside that sells juice
and gorgeous chorizo (sausage) rolls for a few cents.
You pay in National Pesos here, so prices are good.
Nearby there are bakeries and supermarkets. Note
that some bakers aren't allowed to sell to non-Cubans,
i.e. those without a ration book.
We found you can buy most supplies here if you look
around. Our outdated guidebooks suggested that toilet
rolls, soap, cooking oil and some other items would be
impossible to find, so we stocked up, but all the shops
were overflowing with the stuff. Che Guevara hats,
T-shirts mugs, books, paintings, photos, you name it,
are everywhere.
The Countryside
Cuba is a large country. The size of England, it has
mountains, plains and some 1 .11 here are
many rivers, caves and green i i I- .. .. tobacco,
sugar and potatoes. It's all enhanced by the turn-of-the
20th-century style of transport ranging from oxcarts to
tipper lorries used as buses. It was great to be able to
travel by car or on foot safely: the roads were often
empty, there was no rush, no hassle and no traffic jams.
The few people we saw on the roadside all waved.
Havana
A special mention has to be made of Havana. We
stayed in Old Havana, the historical area, again in a
casa particular (private homes where rooms can be
rented). Our apartment was in what looked like an old
tenement building with a side door to the dirty stair
case. Kids were playing baseball in the street, using a
piece of wood for a bat and a bottle top as a ball: what
skill they had with it, too! Despite the scruffy sur
i... re could walk the busy streets at night
S great to be able to walk down the street
listening for which bar had the best live music, and
then pop in to enjoy a daiquiri and some first-rate
salsa, meringue or son music.
We found a great Chinese restaurant in a grubby
back street in Havana. A waiter standing outside beck
oned us in and up a gloomy staircase. It looked decid
edly dodgy, but we decided to take a look. Upstairs it
was beautiful and the place was buzzing with local
people. We had one of the best meals in Cuba there,
not authentically Chinese (in fact, a bit more Cuban)
but excellent quality, price and atmosphere.


Old Havana's buildings, cars, markets, harbour and
fort are all worth special visits. Hotels such as the
Inglaterra, with a piano player in the corner, are great
places to pop in for a cocktail. El Bodeguita del Medio,
one of Ernest Hemingway's favorite bars is worth a
visit, if only for a beer. Tony loved the menu here!
The people were lovely; we never had any problems
whatsoever. There is little crime. Wherever we were,
habaneros wanted to chat, unlike on many other
Caribbean islands where people are more reserved.
One or two would ask for a dollar after having greeted
and welcomed us, but that happened in all the larger


towns. All our hosts at the casas particulares were
exceptionally friendly and willing to talk about their life
and problems living within Cuba, and what their hopes
are for the future. Most if not all we spoke to thought
change was on the way, I think believing that with a
change -f TTC ^--tmmnt nd a new leader within
Cuba, : I, '1 .. I 1, the blockade could take
place, still leaving the country independent.

Continued on next page







It




I 1


We love Havana... Club! Here we are with a new acquaintance at the Rum Museum. The people of Havana
are lovely, too we never had any problems whatsoever


S PIRATES OF THE CARIBBEAN
Solution


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BARBADU S GRENADA ST. VI( tNT V PflR ITI .If IT HANDLING SERVICES
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*MSITIQUE *CARRIACOIJ C ilIKHr F. A W Till W 11 ir -Mo


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continued from previous page
Poverty, Health and Education
Cubans have little cash: 10 to 20 CUCs per month
doesn't go far, even with the government subsidies of
electricity, water, rent and basic foodstuffs. However,
even if you have money there is little to buy, so lack of


to Raul Castro, even the prostitutes have degrees,
though he didn't say what in.
US Visas
One surprise 11 i .- '..i -1.... I .nany European
cruisers is the -.i ." i I ........ a United States
visa in Havana. I .. ... 11 ..' US territory on


booth where the young American girl behind the coun
ter made polite conversation with us while typing on
the computer. She asked where we were going next
and why we wanted a visa, we told her we live on a boat
and will be cruising the Caribbean -lI.ri; th- n-xt few
years and would like to visit som I .- ... i- That


Inside the Museum of the
Revolution in Old Havana. This
was the Presidential Palace
from 1920 until 1959, and
Tiffany & Company of New
York was responsible for much
of the Palace's decor. In con
trast, exhibits in some other
rooms now feature blood
stained and bullet ridden
uniforms from
revolutionary battles


money isn't the ,, i..i ..i i ,
Inmanyways] .... I I 1'...' .. '. Insome
parts, they lived in beautiful countryside in pretty
coloured houses with well-tended gardens. Our host in
one of the guesthouses had chickens and pigs in the
r--;;- he grew his own pineapples, mangoes, grape
' '"i oconuts and vegetables. He even grew, dried and
roasted his own coffee beans -absolutely beautiful.
Most people were smartly dressed, although some
would argue that they go without food to have nice
clothes. Also, as in many Communist countries where
everyone is "equal", some are "more equal" than oth
ers. Many frequently ate in the same restaurants that
we did, which was great, but people who can pay 10
CUCs for a ....1 ... .1 .. obviously not earning the
standard 15 ... ...
There were hospitals and clinics everywhere, and all
free. They looked like my recollection of an English
doctor's surgery or worse, ie. scruffy, but they are
available. The stock of drugs and medicine is limited
because of the blockade.
All the children go to school in their uniforms, very
proud, smart and clean. Many young Cubans speak at
least one other language, usually English. According


our "visa waiver" type passports, but we can't : ;- 1
boat using the same passport without a visa. 1 i
(I was told by the US Immigration), even in a medical
or weather emergency, we would be fined a minimum
of US$500 per person if we announced our arrival and
a minimum of US$5,000 if we didn't.
We heard through an internet source that we could
obtain a US visa in Havana at the US embassy that
doesn't officially exist, but hides inside a Swiss embas
sy that doesn't seem to exist either. We found the
building behind about a hundred Cuban flags in the
centre of Havana. There was a security guard every 20
metres around the perimeter.
We asked one guard where we could obtain a US
visa, he made a phone call to his office, and they -
us a fax number where we should send all our :..
nation. We did this that same morning, then tele
phoned to see if they received it. They had, and gave
us an appointment I 11 I II '. I *
The security staff . I I... .. ...
directed us to the entrance. We had the usual searches
and shown through the waiting room for our interview.
We were called to a booth to pay US$130 (non-refund
able) then told to wait. We were then called to another


was our interview; she said that's fine, your ten-year
visa will be ready for you to collect tomorrow, have a
nice day. Which we did, a proper US visa, amusingly
(we thought) stamped 'Issued in Havana'. It does expire
on April 1st, but I think that's just a coincidence! So
another good reason to go to Havana.
Trinidad
This is a very charming and ancient but very touristy
town. There are many casas particulares, so many in fact
that they have now closed the list for new applicants for
this work. Our hosts here told us that they cannot close
their house now for a rest or for restoration because their
licence to operate would be given to somebody else.
Our house in Trinidad was particularly beautiful,
though in desperate need of some TLC. It dated back,
we were told, about 300 years and had been in the
same family for the past 150 years. The elderly owner
showed us some photos of her grandparents who were
certainly well-to-do people of the day, being a lawyer
... I . .1, i. I ., i. i..s lovely old lady has seen
... ... .. . 1.1 ... having been reasonably
S1I 11 .' .. .... The consequences of the US block
ade moved them down into a struggling family.
Continued on next page


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-ontinued from previous page
This, they told us, changed enormously when the
Russians moved in and they were again able to buy
the things they needed to have a little comfort.
However, she said, this didn't last and when the Soviet
Union broke up they were back to an even more des
operate way of life. The owner's daughters and grand
daughters now help in running the establishment.
I suppose as so-called capitalists we grow up with a
different viewpoint. We see an opportunity and we
invest or work hard in order to make a buck. But even


Above: The lush Cuban countryside around Pinar del Rio

Left: At last -it's lobster time!

Below: A typical scene. In Cuba, transportation includes the iconic old American cars
and just about anything else on wheels


if they had the money to do so, Cuban people are not
permitted to invest in any m-n- m' lin. scheme,
which breeds lethargy and I I ... -I in work.
This though is only my naive opinion and observations
obtained during the past weeks visiting and talking to
the Cuban people we met.
Heading Back East
We cleared out of Cienfuegos and made our way
back east. One of our anchorages, Cayo Breton (the
"lobster capital", our guide book said) has a large fish
ermen's storage facility, but it is now closed.
We only met one fishing boat. We dinghied over to
have a chat with the crew and ask if they had a lobster
or two to trade. They did, but said we mustn't tell any
one because the lobsters all belong to Fidel, so we
won't mention it. We had a long chat with these -11
-such a good crowd. They were in need of a i
T-shirts and asked if we had any caps. We told them
we had some soap and cooking oil, but they said no
thanks, they had plenty of that. (So had we.) They
loved our rum, though, judging by the -.rtrfn going
on aboard their boat all evening. One c' II ... fell off
their boat, twice!
Our freezers and tummies full, we settled down for
the night to be rested for an early departure.
Cuba is a lovely country. We saw some beautiful
sights and had some memorable times. But would we
go back again? Personally, the answer would probably
be no. I don't know why, but it just doesn't grab me
like Venezuela, Trinidad or Jamaica for example.





CROSSWORD SOLUTION


ACROSS
2) SLOW
4) MANS
5) DEAD
7) DOWN
8) LIFT
11) FLAT
12) HEADED
14) EYE
15) DOORS
18) SHEAVE
19) CHEST
21) WOOD KNEES
23) WATER
25) RISING
26) CALM
27) PAY
29) DEADEN
30) SET
32) WEIGHT


DOWN
1) END
3) WOOD
4) MONTHS
6) EFFECTS
9) FREIGHT
10) MENS
13) ANGLE
16) RECKONING
17) DEADLY
20) HEAD
21) WORKS
22) SHARES
24) ROPES
28) MEN
31) TO


FULL SERVICE BOATYARD




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Agaminfigg
NwUrl 11FI^211F ^ *Sadblslnij^^3jy



4."*:- 905ri Qe mat








J e-L an r- i im.- --,I










by Arlene Walrond
To me, travelling in Venezuela is an adventure. Be it
a por puesto ride to the market or a bus trip to a scenic
site, there are tales to tell.
The things I have observed over the years just waiting
for the lancha to take me across the canal next to the
Aqua Vi marina's hotel in Puerto La Cruz would amaze
or maybe amuse you. The actual trip takes a minute or
less, depending on the cargo. Apart from humans, that
can include bicycles, sno-cone or hot-dog carts, and
sometimes even animals. Rush hours or Sunday after
noons when people are returning from the beach pro
vide the most interesting and entertaining moments.
One thing I can say about the women in Venezuela is
that they are not embarrassed about showing off their
bodies, no matter what shape they're in. Some of them
walk from the beach (which is about a mile from the
canal) ir. 1 1. I .li..... .. 1 .... little to the im agi
nation, 1. 1, 11, I I .i, ,. enhanced by sili
cone or marred by cellulitis, it attracts the eye.
T -it --. travel beats all, though. Six years ago,
: I i ... le from Puerto La Cruz eastward to the
port town of Guiria to catch the ferry to Trinidad was
an experience in itself. It was my first time on a long
distance bus and I had no idea what it would be like.
The first clue that it would be different was that pas
sengers were boarding with pillows and blankets. I
didn't know then that we were looking at a seven to
eight hour trip in an ice box on wheels. Most of the
Venezuelan buses that I've travelled on were made in
Brazil, so I'm not sure who should be given credit for
the great air conditioning systems in them. Needless
to say I was unprepared for the coldness. Not long
after take-off my hands and feet became numb and
lifeless -but there is a God.
The bus left the terminal at 12:30AM and about three
hours later it broke down. What a relief It's the only
time I have ever '---n - for something like that to
happen. It didn't ... i 11. we were stranded in the
middle of nowhere, not a building in sight. All passen
gers were asked to disembark as the driver and his
companion tried to ascertain what the problem was.
After their inspection the driver made a call, after which
the passengers were told to retrieve their luggage.
Standing on the side of a narrow shoulderless high
way in the dark can be scary, but at least I was no
longer frozen. The bus driver announced that another
bus would be along shortly.
Continued on next page


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Continuedfrom previous page
Half an hour passed, and nothing. By then some
passengers i i ..-. down passing vehicles. An
hour later "I I I .- remained, including a guy
in a military uniform whose presence dispelled any
fears I might have felt being in a strange place at

rrf I


...where one passengerjust couldn't resist a dip in the
pool and a shower!


that in -'"-1 hl1r (Over the years, I've discovered
that :.. ..I. I in that uniform was greatly mis
placed. I can recount incidents here to substantiate
that statement but it might not be in my best inter
est to do so.)
Anyway, another bus finally came along and we con
tinued on our w--- rri-in. -t '1niria in mid-morning.
The first thing I I 1 1 -1. up in the bathroom
at the bus station, which wasn't very clean with water
barely ti -1-li.. fi-;. tl. t T.- next time I made the
trip I us I ... ... whose facilities are
a lot better. The only problem there was that I had to


walk past a raging doberman on a long leash to get to
the bathroom!
My first visit to Guiria was like going back in time. It
reminded me of a typical rural town in Trinidad back in
the Sixties I" hpn T ,'Tr r"m'rin' lip Thi population was
small and h I .. II' .. I I1. i- i. The pace
was slow and laid back and I got the
impression that crime wasn't an issue. I
remember chatting with an old Syrian
man who told me he had relatives in
Trinidad. He was sitting half asleep out
side his store, the door wide open when we
approached. There wasn't much to steal
back then anyway: the few stores that
existed were sparsely stocked. I walked
through the only appliance store which
boasted a single item of each type, e.g. one
stove, one fridge, etcetera. There was no
washing machine. Six years later, this
same store is so overflowing with goods
there's hardly room to walk about, and
there are other appliance stores as well.
Guiria today is a bustling town. A lot of
development has taken place over the
last two years. There's also been a mas
sive influx of people, but progress isn't
always a good thing. I liked the old Guiria
better. Native Guirians that I've come in
contact with over the years now tell me,
"Be careful, hold on to your purse."
On two occasions subsequent to my
first trip, the journey was interrupted a
couple of hours' distance from Guiria by
protesting villagers who blocked the road to call atten
tion to some plight cr th- -ti-r f-r-in- i-ssengers to
walk long distances .1 1. I I 1111 i alternative
transport. So, to avoid a harrowing bus trip, I travelled
by plane a few times. It cost a lot more, but the time
factor in getting from one destination to the next was
an incentive -until I came to the realization that
planes have a habit of falling out of the sky in
Venezuela. It's not my intention to trivialize the mat
ter, but since 2004 I've been taking notice and hardly
a m onth g 1. ..I ... . I .. ... . a plane
or helicopi, . .I... 11. I I -) far for
this year i i -' .* I i.... i. i I ple have
died in plane crashes here, so I'm a bit wary.
The last time I made the trip to Guiria I found anoth
er way to beat the stress and inconvenience of that
overnight bus ride. It put a dent in my purse, but


sometimes we have to make sacrifices for peace of
mind. I left Puerto La Cruz early one day by porpuesto
route taxi (there's no bus until after noon) and rode to
the town of Carupano, which is roughly halfway to
Guiria. I had lunch and a bathroom break there, then
got in another por puesto. There were no incidents
along the way and I arrived in Guiria by late afternoon.
I checked into a hotel and had a very restful night. The
r---t -I-; I --t ...-- .;.- -. tl- li:t -t the office
11 .i i .... II I .. I I ,,, ... I .. I T depart re
tax, after which I explored a bit taking in the most
recent changes. I returned to my hotel room and
watched TV until it was time to get ready to leave.
Oneofth i,,... ..thaveci. i 11.
Guiriaare I. .1.1 orrath ii i i ,
=- ---aiting the ferry. Six years ago there was a
Si i (albeit no seats) that provided shelter from
the elements. Some years later, a new berthing area
-= =n-1 to the ferry and for a while chairs were
I I I patrons at the Guardia Nacional com-
pound close by. I don't know what happened to change
that, but now the only shelter is a large tree, with gas
and oil pipelines for seats. A small tent is provided for
the check-in procedure, but that would be inadequate
if rain should fall.
Now compare that with the posh facilities at Pier 1 in
Chaguaramas on the Trinidad end: clean bathrooms
and proper seats in a beautiful setting. I know that
these facilities were not created especially for the ferry
passengers, but they're there and are well appreciated.
So much so that last November (2007) while I was tak
ing some photos with this article in mind, I observed
one passenger circling the swimming pool. Then he
took a seat close by and =*t =t .i- it the water.
Finally, the water proved :.. -.-1. i i i next thing I
know he's swimming in the pool. I couldn't resist tak
ing a shot of him.
The most unusual travelling experience I've had so
far is that one morning in Trinidad I got to Chaguaramas
just as the ferry was about to pull out. Everything was
finalized and I was told there was no way I could get
on board. Since the ferry operates only on Wednesdays
I was in i. I .. .. stress, a man gave me a
contact :...... i ,I ..... who liaises with boats
going to Venezuela. When I made the call and heard
that my prospective ride was a fishing boat I had
doubts, but he assured me that another woman would
be on board as well as a male passenger who had
missed the ferry, too. It turned out to be a pleasant
trip with very kind and courteous people.


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CARIBBEAN MARITIME HISTORY


Guyanese Solidari


with Canadian Sear

by Norman Faria

It is April 1949. In colonial British Guiana, on South America's northeast coast,
the night is thick with darkness as a group of Guyanese climb into a small rowboat
on the east bank of the Demerara River.
They row towards one of the several freighters anchored in midstream off the docks
of the capital, r'-r t-- t It is the Canadian cargo vessel Sunavis, which had come
to Guyana to I I anadian aluminum-making plants.
In the bottom of the rowboat, carefully wrapped in crocus bags and canvas, is a
quantity of food including freshly baked bread, some ground provisions, salt fish,
chicken, rice and perhaps a bottle or two of good Guyanese rum. It is all destined for
the striking Canadian seamen on board the 10,000-tonne ship.
Among those in the rowboat is a couple, each of whom would later become President
of an independent Guyana. They are Cheddi Jagan and his American-born wife Janet
(nee Rosenberg). Every now and again, as Mrs. Jagan related to this writer in an
interview in the 1980s, those on board the small boat would duck down as the ship
owner's security .... 1 i I .. 1.1,. 1. 1 ...... across the anchorage.
In a remarkable I I -"I '' I ii I'i' .1' sciousness, the Guyanese people
and their leaders were offering solidarity to the seamen, then part of an international
strike organized by the Canadian Seamen's Union (CSU). The labour action affected
the 1, 1 ... I ... -1 .. I ... i. .... ....... i1 i, wherever they were m oored.
TI. I I I'. .. .... I ..I I -i ...... I I. ... two main, but connected, under
standings. One was the need to defend democratic peoples' organizations, regardless
of where they were in the world. Not only were the CSU and like-minded unions
worldwide fighting to deepen the already beneficial achievements for their members.
There was also an ideological struggle. It was the Cold War period at the end of World
War II. Company unions and others were started to undermine "red-led" unions, as
the established media described left-wing trade unions.
It was not that these company unions and other bodies such as groupings within
the American Federation of Labor (AFL) could provide better representation and


The Sunavis. Guyanese people smuggledfood to her striking crew by rowboat when
security guards blockaded the waterfront

rank-and-file democracy than the "red-led" unions. The CSU, for example, had the
support of the majority of Canadian seamen. These were among the poorest sections
of the Canadian working class (many men went to sea in their early teens during this
period). The Canadian Encyclopedia described the CSU as "effective, well support
ed". It had won significant benefits for the workers within an archaic, exploitative
sector with its low wages, long hours and poor working conditions.
Another important reason for the solidarity was that the CSU stood for democratic
traits wtb. i 1 I ....- I others in then-colonial British Guiana were themselves
striving I i I I, I, Guyanese people: multiracial democracy and unity.
According to the book, Against the Tide: The Story of the Canadian Seamen's Union
by Jim Green (Progress Publishers, 1986), the CSU was formed in 1936. Waterfront
unions had merged with it. Among its members were Japanese immigrant fishermen
who were based at ports in the Canadian western seaboard province of British
Columbia. It was a time when Asiatic people in Canada were still being discrimi
nated against, 1. ,J.i as Canadian democracy deepened, this would change. In
1949, at the ti I i' 1 CSU strike, the apartheid system in South Africa had been
institutionalized. But the CSU insisted that any ships being manned by its members
would have 'ift- r.t- 1 crews while visiting South Africa.
Looking at I I I crews in Green's well-researched book, there are clearly CSU
crewmembers with African and Hispanic features. These were probably from the





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Caribbean countries, including Cuba, where Canadian shipping lines such as
Saguenay called. It must be remembered that during this period, especially from the
1920s i ...1. i1. 1950s, I ... 1 .... 1 .. I .. fo vessels and even cruise liners
(e.g. th( I i 1-") were .i I ..... i .. ports. At the time, the Canadian
merchant marine fleet was the fourth largest in the world.
In fairness, the contracts signed by the shipping firms for hauling cargoes and car
trying passengers in the circum-Caribbean region and Guyana included the stipulation
that a certain percentage of local crew be hired. This tradition was in existence up
until the mid-lI **- 1. I.. 1..- .... i .. a deckhand with other Caribbean
seamen on the i .... ... .. i .. I., ,, i one of the Geest Line ships carry
ing bananas from Eastern Caribbean islands to -i.... i i... T ,,.i, .i ,,
islanders, particularly those from Bequia, worked o 11 i .. I
In his book The Weston Tral, Cheddi Jagan explained that the April 1949 support
action with the Canadian seamen had been organized "as a matter of principle". He
gave more details: "Our job was to take care of the men -not an easy task; of the
70 men involved, nearly half were ashore and had to be fed and lodged... The major
problem was to feed the men on the ship. This was quite a problem as the shipping
company's security guards had blockaded the harbour front."
My view is that the Guyanese support for the CSU went further than this in its
Santi-colonial impact and the promotion of the need for multi-racial unity and under
Standing. The Jagans were leaders of a group called the Political Action Committee
(PAC), made up of and supported by Guyanese of all races. One year later, it evolved
into the People's Progressive Party, one of the Commonwealth Caribbean's oldest,
most respected and representative political parties. It would lead the Guyanese into
independence from Britain in 1966.
Though the impetus and desire, the hard-fought campaigns and struggles for inde
pendence by Caribbean peoples were rooted in their own everyday experiences and
hardships, there was interaction with and support from sympathetic organizations
and individuals in "white" North America and Europe.
In a 2001 article found on her website, Mrs. Jagan wrote: "I remember the period
well... It was a heady period and the seamen were strong and courageous men, loyal
to their union. We (in the PAC) learned a lot from them."
According to Green's book, the colonial authorities issued warrants for the arrest
of the Sunavis crew. But the strikers also got the backing of the British Guiana and
West Indies Federated Seamen's Union as well as the British Guiana Trades Union
Council (TUC). Green argues that a just-concluded strike by unionized sugar work
ers at Plantation Enmore also helped the seamen. When the police went out to the
ship and met resistance, the colonial Governor, anxious to avoid more bloodshed,
told the police to let the Canadians be.
When the TUC withdrew its support in May, the seamen became more isolated.
They were put in jail for 16 days after giving themselves up. Legal representation had
been o .... I I i I'AC. After attending a party thrown in their honour by Cheddi
Jagan, 1'. I1 back to Canada.
Due partly to rising Cold War hysteria in the early 1950s, the CSU went under
soon after the strike. The union's 12,000-member base was undermined by a quasi
company union named the Seafarers International Union, which was affiliated with
the AFL. In a few years the Canadian merchant marine fleet was sold off, leading to
much unemployment. The legacy of the CSU's seminal work continued, however,
with members and leaders joining other labour bodies and peoples' organizations.
The seldom-heard-about solidarity action by the fledgling democracy and anti
colonial PAC needs to be remembered. The historic show of support by Guyanese
people of all races for Canadian seamen nearly 60 years ago is part of our wider col
lective memory, not only for Guyana but the entire Caribbean region with its rich
maritime traditions, human endeavors and hopes.
Norman Faria is Guyana's Honorary Consul in Barbados.






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& 15 Specialties in English & Deutsch
Rendezvous Service for Sailors at Hillsborough,
Sandy Island & Tyrrel-Bay
Special Group Prices for Sailors













Swho go to sea should contemplate safety as a
ilprimary issue.
If you overhear someone saying they "got wrecked",
you first probably think they overdid it on rum, espe
cially if they are sitting in a bar. Many years ago at
Chiefs Bar in Crown Bay, St. Thomas, I heard a sea
soned yachtie spin a story about surviving a ship
wreck. The older man caught most of the patrons'
watery-eyed attention, and attracted a bellyful of free
drinks. He told of a if, ,1., i1 .,. .ito his sloop in
the South Atlantic I.. .... I. ... Cape Town to
Rio. His chorus line .- i ,-ab bag just as
Davy T-I : -;.1-11 ;-.- I.11 -" He hailed the crowd
and I II I II 1 1. I I I a pristine Catalina.
In the following days his yarn transcended to all rot
-free-drink bait -but I never forgot the necessity of
an always-handy grab bag.
In the northern islands, after hurricanes such as
Hugo, Marilyn r'- = and Lenny, I met many de
boated storm : ... In the Grenadines, I've met a
few sailors who had more than one boat sink beneath
them. The story "It Ain't Over..." by Ruth Chesman in
the April and May 1999 issues of Compass told of a
true woman-overboard calamity in the Windwards. I'm
glad I can't tell a personal sinking or overboard story.
Fear, more than common sense, has kept me and the
Sea Cow afloat. I always have my deck harness
securely hooked on, and my .- .1 1 ; -dy.
No sailor has the intention i i ....... a first-hand
authority on surviving a shipwreck, but you must
always be prepared just in case, even when island
hopping or day-sailing in the Caribbean. Disasters
don't make appointments so, as they said in the
Seventies, "have your shit together".
Every situation is different with winds, currents, and
location: think about everything before deciding to
leave the site of your shipwreck. And have your sur
vival kit ready.
Organize a grab bag containing survival essentials.
First, make sure you can alert others. Check your
EPIRB. Radios and cell phones (fully charged and/or
with spare batteries) are useful if you believe someone
will be listening, and flares if you think someone's
watching. The smallest and easiest signaling devices
to carry are a signaling mirror and a whistle. You'll
want to be able to tell rescuers exactly where you are,
so include a handheld GPS and a compass.
Pack some food, MREs (meals ready to eat) if possi
ble, plus i..1.1 .i. i i 1. hats, spare sunglasses, a
slicker, a -....1 I -I .i I I 1 md some sunblock. Some











STEE'SGUDE


AFTER THE




BOAT SINKS...


by Ralph Trout


Do a lifeboat drill. Then sit therefore a while and imagine
how this would be for several hours or days


lifeboat survivors swear that ,"n1-- h-ind line fishing
gear was the key to their surv. .i1 i .. use a dinghy
as a liferaft, a piece of suitable cloth can be used as a
shade, rain catcher and makeshift sail.
Close to your dink, liferaft or hatch, store extra jugs
of water to take with you if you have to abandon ship.
The minimum water necessary to stay healthy is one
liter a day, but you can survive on less than five
ounces a day.
Better to have all of the above organized and not
need it, than to be floating for days, castigating your
self for procrastination.
Put passports and ships' papers in a waterproof
pouch that can be grabbed at the last minute. If you
have time before abandoning ship, throw in the paper
chart and ship's log, too.
Also if you have the time and space to include them,
a wetsuit would be a great way to fight hypothermia,
and fins, masks and snorkels might be useful.
Take some time and think of everything you might
need in a liferaft or dinghy that takes up little space.
Those wind-up flashlights and radios might be handy.
A couple of books might help pass the time. But be
realistic when packing your grab bag: if it includes
.... including the kitchen sink, you won't be
1 i it. It might even sink the liferaft.
Then do a lifeboat drill. You might not want to actu
ally deploy an inflatable liferaft, but pretend the boat
is sinking fast and see how quickly you can collect
-. 1- --.t-- ind other stt.rr ... 1 ; i ;,ito the
I,,, , I, I ... ... i,, ., I , w h ile
and imagine how this ,i i i i several hours or
days, and maybe rethink what you want (or don't
want) to have with you.
Take some more time and contemplate all the other
possible bad-luck scenarios that could possibly end
better with a bit of planning: dismasting, engine fail
ure, dead battery, man overboard.
I am definitely a worst-car- --. nri- n11- When the
Cow's engine failed on the 1. .. i -. i i Ia Eastern
Caribbean island chain, way west of Dominica, my
friend Florida Nick asked who would come to help us.
"Hondurans," I replied. (Was he expecting Sea Tow?)
Fortunately, before we met any new friends from
Roatan, we got the engine going again.
The Cow's Perkins only stopped once again, just
outside Trinidad's Boca, and proved that having sig
naling equipment isn't everything. Many boats passed


by us and never indicated that they saw my flares; the
coast guard didn't respond to my radio call. Several
days later at a bar, a tugboat captain said he had
heard my distress call but didn't respond since he
thought I'd probably get her running. (I did.)
That F '- t;.- .i t.in told his own tale of a rescue
at sea, -1 I i ...... He was going to Kingston from
Honduras when he was radio-hailed by a small sail
boat. The woman screamed that her husband had been
knocked overboard by the swinging boom a few hours
before. The tug went to the sailboat and put two crew
men aboard. Both boats searched the area and finally
found the man. The husband was so grateful, and fear
ful of another similar event, that he gave the tug cap
tain his sailboat and he and his wife flew home.
So you've got to ask yourself: were you able to trans
mit a distress signal? Did anyone hear it? Did they
reply? Can you signal visually for help if you see a boat
or plane? Do you know your exact location? It is very
hard to find a raft in the open sea without knowing
reasonable coordinates or seeing a signal.
Bad weather delays searches. In the open ocean,
having the patience and ability (rain catcher, fishing
gear...) to wait for rescue might be the only solution.
If nobody knows your situation, you can see land
nearby, and the prevailing current is in your favor, you
:... 1. ant to try to swim or paddle ashore (got a
If you can sail and steer your liferaft, go for
it. But don't swim if rescuers know your whereabouts
or you have any doubts about getting to shore: save
your energy.
Drowning after a shipwreck or sinking is the number
one worry. Everyone's natural endurance is reduced by
the stress of an actual sinking. After the wreck, real
peril comes from exposure to the sun and salt, and
hypothermia from cold water and the wind. Body heat
loss is 25 times -; .t-r in water than in air.
In the liferaft, I yourself to relax and use less
energy. You will need less food and water. Water is an
absolute necessity, so don't let the first rainfall pass
r L .... . u , ... l
eat. Your body needs water more than food. Most cast
away sailors would trade anything for a desalinating
reverse osmosis hand pump (money extremely well
spent) that can filter up to three liters an hour.

Continued on next page


REAL SAILORS
BUY STREET'S GUIDES
Real sailors use Street's Guides for inter-island and harbor
piloting directions, plus interesting anecdotes of people,
places and history. Street's Guides are the only ones that
describe ALL the anchorages in the Eastern Caribbean.
NEW! Streets videos, first made in 1985,
are now back as DVDs.
* "Transatlantic with Street" documents a sailing passage
from Ireland to Antigua via the Cape Verdes. 2 hours
* "Antigua Week '85" is the story of the engineless yawl lolaire
racing round the buoys to celebrate her 80th birthday. 1 hour
* "Street on Knots" demonstrates the essential knots and
line-handling skills every sailor should know. 1 hour
All are available via Armchair Sailor and Bluewater Books.
HURRICANE TIPS! Visit www.street-lolaire.com for a wealth of
information on tracking and secunng for a storm.
Street's Guides are available
at bookshops and chandleries, or from
www.iUniverse.com and www.seabooks.com
















PRODUCT



POSTINGS

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Water Microbial Powder and Blue Surfactant mixed
with water will lift oil residue and pollutants from any
surface and kills odors, while the Kt's Razor Sponge
easily wipes away oil and grime. Fast, efficient, and
low-cost, the Kit is perfect for cleaning and deodoriz-
ing heads, bilges, catch basins, septic tanks, porous
surfaces and even laundry!
The key to Clean Water Solutions' eco-friendly prod-
ucts are naturally-occurring Archaea microbes in the
Oil Clean-Up Kit that "eat" hydrocarbons from diesel
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and sewage. Best of all, these microbes convert the
dangerous hydrocarbons into beneficial, non-hazard-
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For more information visit www cwsius.com.

No Sweat!
Gone are the days of noisy, maintenance-intensive
dehumidifiers that eat up space and power. Now


-Continuedfrom previous page ..after the boat sinks
Drinking seawater is a good conversation topic while
sipping a sundowner in the bar, but it is dangerous
and can lead to serious health problems like kidney
failure (as does drifting for months without water).
Dr. Bombard, the eminent saltwater-consumption re
searcher, survived 63 days drifting without any sup
plies of food or water. His research found he could
survive (not really hale and hearty) on tiny amounts of
saltwater a day.
Salt water removes your skin's natural oils and sun
burns increase dehydration. Avoid sunstroke by keep
ing your head covered and stay as motionless as pos
sible. Always wear light clothing, and try to dry it
before sunset.
Tom Hanks' "Forest Gump" character supposedly
coined the expression "shit happens", and his
"Castaway" character had to live through it. Lifejackets
are mandatory equipment on all boats and live up to
their name as the best personal flotation device. No
matter the boat or the situation -even going for an
afternoon's : -..... r a quick ..1. always look
for the PFDs I -..I happens" I I grab anything
that will keep you afloat.
You certainly don't want to lose at the shipwrecked
sailor game. Here are some of the winners. The losers for
the most part remain largely unknown. Be prepared!
Father and Son, Two-Time Survivors
The book Survive the Savage Sea tells the firsthand
story of the Robertson family. In 1971 they bought
Lucette, a 43-foot wooden schooner, to sail around the
world. The family sailed across the Atlantic to the
Caribbean, and through the Panama Canal to the
Galapagos Islands. But several days after leaving the
Galapagos, attacked by a pod of orca whales, Lucette
sank. The Robertson family was alone on the Pacific
Ocean, outside the shipping lanes. It was more than a
month before they were missed. They drifted 16 days
in their liferaft with their dinghy in tow, with not
nearly enough food or water. On the 17th day, the raft
sank, and they piled into their nine-foot dinghy for 22
more days until rescued by a Japanese fishing trawler.
The six of them miraculously survived ii 11. 1,,.i 1
with less than ten inches of freeboard by .1 I,,,. i,
and turtles for nourishment.
This English Family Robertson adventure is even
more notable since the father had previously survived
the Japanese sinking his Royal Navy ship during
WWII; and the son, as a Royal Naval Cadet on his first
ship, later survived another sinking in the Pacific.


boatowners can protect their investment from mois-
ture and mold with the new, award-winning DryBoat
from Delta "T" Systems. The innovative marine dehu-
midifier system is one-third the size of traditional com-
pressor/condenser type units and uses a fraction of
the power. Its small, solid-state heat pump provides an
unmatched level of reliability and efficiency.
Winner of the 2008 Innovation Award for Interior Parts



















given at the Marine Aftermarket Accessories Trade
Show, the powerful DryBoat reduces humidity in spaces
up to 39.6 cubic metres. Innovation Award judge
Charles Doane, who is SAIL magazine's editor-at-large,
said, "This device employs technology that promises to
revolutionize interior climate control in boats."
For more information visit www.deltatsystems.com.

New Twist for Cleaner, Safer Boating
As one of the world's leading designers and manu-
facturers of marine toilets, Jabsco continues to search
for new ways to improve its products and functional-
ity. The new "Twist 'n' Lock" manual toilet range does
just that by addressing the issues of syphonic flooding
and waste backflow. In their installation instructions,
Jabsco have always promoted the use of sea cocks,
vented loops and the correct positioning of holding
tanks. However, modern boat design tends to work
against these basic principles, with sea cocks hidden
from view and even holding tanks installed above,
rather than below the toilet.
The new Jabsco "Twist 'n' Lock" design uses a
remodelled piston in the pump-out assembly. At the


Most Resilient
For decades, a Chinese seaman named Poon Lim
held the world's shipwreck survivor record. (According
to the Guinness Book ofRecords, the r, i i. n,....
at sea is held by two Kiribati fishermen i. ... 1 11
of Nikunau, who drifted for 177 days in 1992 before
coming ashore on the eastern end of Samoa.) Poon Lim
floated alone in a liferaft on the South Atlantic for 133
days when he was 25 years old. His ship, a British
merchant, quickly sank after it was torpedoed off Cape
Town, South Africa, in November of 1942. He luckily
found a wooden 1.1 i i.. .. ift with some cans
of biscuits, a jrt, I II.. and a flashlight
lashed to it. He rationed himself to a few swallows of
water and two biscuits twice a day. He missed rescue
three times. Once a freighter passed nearby, a US
Navy patrol plane actually buzzed his raft, but he was
ignored. His third time wasn't a charm as a German
sub (maybe the one that sank his ship) saw him, but
submerged and left him to drift.
Poon Lim forgot about rescue and fought to keep
himself alive until he found land. To keep his strength
up, he swam twice a day when the sea was calm. He
converted the cloth of his life jacket to a rain catch
ment. To catch fish, he used the line that held his
supplies, made a fishhook from a :1 .i., J I irt, and
first baited it with a piece of biscuit. I1. i.-1. i caught
were eaten raw and the remains used as bait to catch
the next fish. He trapped seagulls, using fish as bait,
and ate them. He also caught small sharks for sur
vival food. He scratched a calendar of days adrift on
his raft. After 132 days he was rescued at the mouth
of the Amazon River in Brazil!
His feat made him an international celebrity. He had
only lost 20 pounds and after a month recuperating in
a Brazilian hospital he went to New York City and was
given permanent US residency. Poon Lim was awarded
the British Empire Medal and the Royal Navy included
his survival techniques in their training manuals.
His tale is told by Ruthanne Lum McCunn in the
1985 book Sole Survivor: A Story of Record Endurance
at Sea.
Another Whale
Maurice and Maralyn Bailey were sailing in the
Pacific on their 40-foot yacht, Auralyn. Mr. Bailey was
a 42-year-old printer and his wife was a 33-year-old
tax clerk. As they describe in their book 117 Days
Adrift, all went well until a sperm whale's tail smashed
their boat. They collected what they could take with
them into the liferaft: totaling 33 cans of food, contain


end of normal pumping out, at the bottom of the
pump stroke, the user simply turns the handle through
90 degrees, which locks the piston down onto the
base outlet valve keeping it securely shut. Turning the
handle to the normal operating position opens the
lock again. It is a simple and intuitive solution, mean-
ing skippers can sleep easy in the knowledge that
even in a big seaway, with a less than perfectly
installed unit, no water, or worse, waste, will find its
way into the cabin.
The "Twist 'n' Lock" system is being installed on all
Jabsco Manual Toilets, both Compact and Regular
Bowl sizes and at no addition to the retail price.
For more information visit www.jabsconews com.

More Energy-Saving LED Lights
Two new LED lights from Hella marine get a mention
this month: Their stylish LED Oblong Courtesy and Step
Lamps are important contributors to safety on board,
and consuming a miniscule 0.5 watts, Hella Marine's
unique Multivolt LED technology versions provide con-
sistent illumination across a range of input voltages
from ten to 33 DC. Designed and manufactured in
New Zealand, these lamps are extremely shock- and
vibration-resistant with no bulbs or filaments to break.
Ideal for illuminating storage areas, companionways,
deck fittings, signs and switches, classy Oblong
Courtesy Lamps are available in amber, red, blue,
green and white.
Hella has also recently announced its new com-
pact, reliable power-saving LED Navigation Lamps.
Easily seen from two nautical miles away, the lamps
offer all the energy-saving and dependability benefits
of Hella Marine LED technology. Their NaviLED lamps
draw less than two watts each, ten percent of the
power of a comparable incandescent bulb. They are
a complete "fit and forget" electronic device, fully
sealed to protect against the harmful effects of salt-
water corrosion. Hella Marine multivolt circuitry ensures
consistent illumination from eight to 28 volts DC, even
under low battery voltages and high charging loads.
Quality marine cable is pre-wired with each lamp,
providing time-saving, waterproof installations.
NaviLED lamps are certified for recreational and com-
mercial vessels under IMO COLREG, USCG, RINA (I)
and ABYC A-16 standards. Advanced lens and optic
designs ensure highly accurate cut-offs and clear visi-
bility. Intended for sail and powerboats, the innovative
lamps even take into account vertical visibility when a
sailboat is heeling.
For more information on Hella marine products visit
www.hellamarine.com.


ers for collecting rain, a knife, and a handful of safety
pins, which enabled them to catch small fish.
For 117 days, the nine-foot raft was their home.
Their supplies lasted only ten days. The raft cover was
their only way of collecl.... .... i,. i,...tes were
grabbed by a flipper and, .II ..-.. i.1. .. wrestled
aboard the raft and consumed. Seven ships crossed
within miles without sighting their raft. For a long
time, no one knew they were missing: they were only
expected in Tahiti after a month long voyage. As they
drifted they planned a new sailboat and another voy
age. Each lost about 40 pounds before being rescued
by a Korean fishing boat 1,500 miles from the site of
their shipwreck.
Best True Shipwreck Novel
Adrift was written by Steven Callahan, an American,
who drifted in the North Atlantic for 76 days and 1,800
miles in a covered liferaft. Callahan wrote his novel
after staying alive by eating barnacles and fish, and
distilling seawater with a solar still. Callahan was bet
ter equipped than most shipwreck survivors.
Six days after departing the Canary Islands, bound
for the Caribbean, Callahan felt a serious thud fol
lowed by a torrent of water into his boat's hull. The
boat had been hit, probably by a whale or a barely
afloat container. In minutes he launched the well
prepared raft he later named Rubber Ducky. He
speared dorado and credited that with keeping him
alive. Sea Survival was the one book he saved from
the shipwreck.
Callahan saw a few ships pass, but no one saw his
raft. On his 43rd day, as he was I.-..... a dorado
rammed the spear into an inflated ..I i ..- raft. The
fish that fed him almost killed him. But in the end the
dorado caused his rescue. Callahan's raft had formed
its own floating eco-system. Its barnacles provided
food for the dorado. Fishermen off the tiny island of
Marie Galante, east of Guadeloupe, saw frigate birds
in the distance. These birds meant fish were nearby so
they motored in that direction. They did not see the
Rubber Ducky until they got close.
Callahan is quoted: "It's not about the destination,
it's about the journey; adventure is available to any
one." It took him another six weeks of hospital reha
bilitation to regain his full strength.
Thanks, but no thanks to the opportunity to write a
first-person story about survival at sea after a sink
ing. I'd rather read another's account. But thi- -.. i
I'd rather be around to write about the I,, ..
had it.

































SEPTEMBER 2008


Y ARIES (21 Mar 20 Apr)
Your love life c',,i .M 2 11.
possible "on the I , , II I I
month. Reef the sails early and try to see the humor
in things.
STAURUS (21 Apr 21 May)
've
success. Aspects are good for inspiration and insight.
I GEMINI (22 May 21 Jun)
September will be 1- windward with petty busi
ness problems and i"I, .11, In creative decision-mak
'eel overwhelmed, but your crew and boat
There for you.
CANCER 0 (22 Jun 23 Jul)
.. 11 I I accom
pa 1 I ..... .. I I .... .I avoid
ance, one of Cancer's most renowned traits, will only serve
to prolong the discomfort.
Q LEO (24 Jul 23 Aug)
You'll have the time and energy, so this would be a good
month to concentrate on making progress in the projects
demanding attention on board.
W VIRGO (24 Aug 23 Sep)
Thiswillbea, I .. i marine
related business ... 1.. 1 I,, i,. i. 1 flow of
business ideas., i
^ LIBRA (24 Sep 23 Oct)
You will be kept very busy with the ups and downs in
the sea of love until the 21st, when it either clears up or
goes on the rocks.
TL SCORPIO (24 Oct 22 Nov)
,, 1 11 1. rthe decks, as love should take
all ...
SAGITTARIUS (23 Nov 21 Dec)
Winds will be a bit weak and fluky this month, espe
cially in any business or creative ventures.
6 CAPRICORN (22 Dec 20 Jan)
Your love life will take all --- energies,
from the 7th to the 24th ,i. constant
of emotions.
AQUARIUS (21 Jan 19 Feb)
S Capricorn will bring fair

PISCES (20 Feb 20 Mar)
Any business or creative projects you take on will just
bring you frustration and aggravation. Youll be stuck in
business irons for several weeks but the creativity will
clear up after the 23rd.



















We are on-line:

www.caribbeancompass.com


Nestled in the genny bag
Watching the new day begin
The sun rises between my knees.

The dark band of scruffy clouds
Scatters left and right
From the explosive light
Which brightens a towering cumulus out west
So white its shadow cast upon the sea
Suggests a sandy beach where none can be.

The French-blue sky is streaked
With pink and yellow
The band of clouds splits apart
Where the orange ball will start.

Ahead, and south, a squall line threatens
Then begins to dissipate as if intimidated
By the sight.

No wind.

The sea is calm,
Its form a series of long one-foot swells.
The sun has become a white burning disk.

I turn my back
To face the cool blues of the western sky,
And there, to the north, is the glint of metal
Of an approaching ship.


- Cornelia Haden Brewer


parlumps marooned


Isla

P r~d
C)














Compass Cruising Crossword


1 13 4




5 6 7 S 9




10 11 12 13

14 15




16 17











25 26 37














Pirates Of The Caribbean


Word Search Puzzle by Pauline Dolinski

They say that the pen is mightier than the sword, but all you puzzle pirates
might want to use pencil unless you're very brave and bold!


'DEAD' IN THE WATER
A, i.', I-,


2)

5)
7)
8)





l i I

21E
2E



27,
2 .


36




3)
4)





26
11



2]1
ft,, I,.
2 i
2I -
2C'"
2E:
311


ANNE COMPASS

BARTHOLOMEW EDWARD
BEARD EVERY
BLACK BART
BLACKBEARD GEORGE


BONNY
BOOTH
BOWEN

CALICO
CAPTAIN KIDD
CARIBBEAN
CHARLES


GRACE

HENRY

JACK
JOHN

KELLY
KILLIGREW


.. .




.






LI i Jut' Il Ilji' j


LADY
MARY
MORGAN
MRS.CHING

NUTT
O'MALLEY

READ
RED
ROBERTS

TEACH
VANE
WARD


Word Search Puzzle solution on page 26


R R A E B H W E R G I LL I K
E E SOCOMA L L E YE E R
AD WAR D N SE M A C L EO
D E E D U O EN AD A L AW B
NT MD C M A R YR Y D A L E
P BO I NMO R G A N NE N R
M L L K J Y N K CA J WAN T
OAON O E S A Y R E VE M S
CCH I H L F E E T H Y T H S
E K T A N L NC S BO O T H S
GB R T I A O A GO B RU P A
RA A P V M M R S C H I NG P
ORBAAOHGEDWARDM
E T E C H A R L E S E N N A O
TECH L T D R A E B K C A L B C
GOLTDRAE B K CALBC


"'
"'


' "' "'"
"" ""''
"''
' "'














CRUISING KIDS' CORNER


unt Josephina had grown so tired of hearing
her son Ernie complain about having nothing
o do when the school holidays came around
that she agreed to let his cousin Trevor from St. Lucia
stay with them whenever he could make it. Well, you
couldn't really blame Ernie for being bored, because
they did live way over on the wild Atlantic coast of
Barbados, far from the busy beaches and energetic life
of Bridgetown. His father, Uncle Solly, was retired and
he liked the quiet life of keeping his two superior goats,
a mild cow and his dear old pony, Matilda, on their
little property high above Sweet Bottom. But
Uncle Solly was also tired of having to drive the
two restless boys about the island so he
bought Ernie a pushbike, second-hand of T
course, and that meant that he had to buy
Trevor a second-hand bike as well. Now, most
young people wouldn't be seen dead on an old
fashioned bike so Uncle Solly got the bikes
very cheap. Nyna, Ernie's little sister, immedi
* 1 1 .. 1 ir bike too, butAuntJosephina

"No way!" she said with her don't-argue-with
me voice. "Bad enough to have Ernie getting
into mischief, but not my daughter." It was no
use appealing to her dad either, because what
Aunt Josephina said was always final.
"Oh, brother!" laughed Trevor when he saw the two
old-fashioned bikes. "I wouldn't be seen dead on one of
these at home!" But Ernie told him to shut up and be
thankful for small mercies (or words to that effect).
And that is how Trevor and Ernie almost lost their bik
ing privileges for all time.
It hal, i ii i.. ......... i .i .
Trevor ii .... .. i I I 1 I ...I ...
a plastic bottle of water and some juice (they weren't
allowed money) in a small backpack and ride off to
explore the nearby beaches. They didn't go very far at
first, usually stopping at a cove somewhere nearby and
swimming in the cool, salt water, then running and
playing on the sand. But this became too tame for
Trevor and he convinced Ernie to venture inland. This is
how they found themselves outside the racecar circuit.
"Gosh," smiled Ernie, "Dad always promised to take
me to see the racecars but he never got around to it."
And he sat on his bike and sighed. "Come on then,"
urged Trevor, "let's find a way inside!"
Ernie didn't need .-.... .. d the two boys
cycled off around the i ..... i,,I until they came
to the big entry gates that, surprise, surprise, stood
wide open. Trevor and Ernie pedaled through, seeing
no one -they didn't know that the race committee
was having a meeting in the hall by the stands. What
they did see was a sleek, green sports car. They had no
eyes to see the other cars parked behind the stands so
Trevor and Ernie dropped their bikes and ran down
the path to inspect this wondrous machine.


"When I grow up, the first thing I'm going to get is a
sports car just like this!" gushed Trevor, running his
hands along the side of the car from its aerodynamic
windfoil to its low-slung nose.
"Look Trevor, someone's left the keys in the igni
tion!" whispered Ernie in awe.
Trevor, being a boy with more bravado than sense,
immediately whipped open the door, climbed in behind
the steering wheel, pulled the seatbelt tight about him
and pretended to drive, his throat uttering the low
"thrum-thrums" of a sports car engine.




REVOR, ERNIE At


THE RACECAR

by Lee Kessell

"Trevor, Trevor, get out before you're caught!"
begged Ernie. But Trevor, his eyes unfocused, bleated
back, "Jump in, Ernie!"
And with that Trevor turned the key in the ignition
and a great roar issued from the chrome exhaust pipe.
Trevor slung the lever ... I" -I .nd Ernie had no
choice but to throw ...... I ..I i. passenger seat
and slam the door before the door slammed him into
pie meat.
Trevor's dad had given his son some driving lessons
at home so Trevor did know something about cars, but
the power of this car almost bucked him off the track.
Ht 1...- 1 -vith a horril-- .ri' -li;: noise and
z. .... over the r .... -... Nor did he
really know where he was going because once on the
circuit he had a choice of all sorts of side roads into
pits, smaller circuits and inspection areas. Trevor was
jolted by the rough surface of the track as well, not
realizing that a smooth surface would send the cars all
i.. .. .I i. 1 i. .. they accelerated or took
I. 1i......- .11 .1, ned. So Trevor had his
hands full just I--ri.- the car on the wide track in
front of him. As I I ".. the first thing he had done
was to look down and grab for his seatbelt fastening it
tight, but when he looked up the breath caught in his
throat and his eyes bulged with fright because every
thing was coming up in front of him so fast.
By now, the race committee members had come
pouring out of the hall and were running in all direc
tions around the circuit, i ...... .. .. i -
ing. But Trevor saw anc I. .. I .... IIh1. II


wanted to do now was to slow down. He threw the car
into the gears; one after the othe 1i I .11 .... 1.ine
would slow down by itself. He .- I 1...1 .. I to
touch the brakes, thinking that would catapult them
through the windscreen, and too panic-stricken to
turn off the .....I. .. i I .t, after two full laps, Ernie
managed to . try turning off the ignition
and then use the brakes!"
Needless to say, Trevor eventually managed to get the
car to slow down and he even steered it back to where
he had found it. When the doors were yanked open and
angry faces looked inside, Trevor was just sit
ting there, paralyzed with shock. Although
Ernie managed to get out of the car by himself,
Shis legs buckled as soon as his feet hit the
ground. Trevor had to be released from his
Sseatbelt and pulled .. 1.1 i. ... I, :ar and
then the two boys I' ..... i. I to the
office. The owner of the car stayed behind with
some friends to inspect the car for damage.
And what a to-do followed! Uncle Solly had
been phoned to come at once, but he wisely
told his wife that the two boys had got into a
harmless prank and needed to be taken home,
that's all. The boys waited, shaking with fright,
until Uncle Solly arrived. He was told all the
details and warned that if the boys did it again the
police would be involved. Fortunately the racecar suf
f- 1 1;.;._.- r else the consequences would have


Swimming in the cool,

salt water, then running

and playing on the sand

became too tame...

At last Uncle Solly was allowed to tie the bikes onto
the roof rack of his car and take the boys home. He
drove in silence all the way to the top of the steep coral
road high above the angry Atlantic, which was worse
punishment for the boys than the biggest lecture. Here
Uncle Solly stopped the car and turning to the boys
said, "Best not to upset Aunt Josephina, boys. I won't
tell her the seriousness of your narrow escape this
time, but let this be a --;rn;i any more trouble
and you're grounded for .
Trevor and Ernie breathed a deep sigh of relief and
as Uncle Solly dro 1l.. .. ;1. -. the farmyard
they had to agree . 1. -... i1. two superior
goats were well deserved.

THE END


I which makes a plant green) so they cannot photosynthesize. So mushrooms, toad
Sow:S stools, moulds, yeasts, etcetera, cannot fit in to the plantae kingdom and have their I
P0 4 ad own: fungi.
...I The development of the microscope enabled scientists to see the very, very tiny I
S creatures which make up the protista and the monera kingdoms. Both are made
| 5r up of single-celled organisms but the algae and protozoans in the protista kingdom
1-. are larger and have a different kind of cell nucleus than the bacteria of the monera
I V-ie- 1-i It i sometimes very difficult to distinguish between organisms in the
,,,, ---, I, and monera kingdoms. Some scientists have even split the monera
L kingdom into two to help with the classification of these microscopic organisms.
|I~ D i y D OR ET 5 They put true bacteria eubacteriaa) in one kingdom and bacteria-like organisms
which live in extreme conditions in deep ocean hydrothermal vents (archaebacte-
by Elaine Ollivierre ria) in another.
As more and more species are discovered, their classification becomes more comr
Do you remember why scientific names are important? They help to identify plicated. Linnaeus's classification with its seven taxonomic levels (kingdom, phy
individual --r'.. vc yen when there may be more than one local name. For lum, class, order, family, genus, species) has had to be extended to include 'sub'
example, ti -. I i 'rock hind in Bequia is often called 'oualioua' (walawa) in levels and 'super' levels. But, the end of the taxonomic chain for each living organ
Carriacou but its scientific name of Epinephelus adscensionus lets us know that ism on earth is still its scientific name. I
we're all talking about the same fish!
What language is used for scientific names? They are written in Latin (and WORD PUZZLE
sometimes Greek). Latin was the language used by all scientists for scientific writ Unscramble these words from the text and insert in the box. Find the special
I ng at the time when Linnaeus was compiling his lists of species. So we continue word written vertically.
to use it today.
When Linnaeus first formulated his classification system, he divided the world 1. D R W L
Into three kingdoms: animals, plants and minerals. However, the mineral kingdom 2. A R T I S T O P I
was soon abandoned so that the Linnaean system dealt only with living things. As 3. T A L E N A P
science and technology progressed over the centuries, other different kinds of 4. MO D GINK K
organisms were discovered so now, we usually use five kingdoms called animalia, 5. A N A I LA I M
I plantae, fungi, monera and protista. What are these? 6.EMANOR I
We can usually recognize animals and plants but, scientifically, they are 7. U F I N G
described as follows. Animals in the animalia kingdom are organisms made of 8. M E S S TY
* many cells. They can move around and they eat and then digest their food. Plants
in the plantae kingdom are also multi-cellular but they cannot move around and
They make their own food by photosynthesis. Organisms like mushrooms are multi Answer on page 42
cellular and grow like a plant but they have no chlorophyll (which is the substance
LI. -------------------------------













NEW GUIDE TO CETACEANS

OF THE ANTILLES


A la decouverte des Cetaces des Antilles, PLB Editions 02008. Hard cover,
64 pages, color photos and illustrations. ISBN 978 2-35365-004-0.
A new reference guide to the cetaceans of the Caribbean has recently been pub
lished in French. It is one of the "A la decouverte..." series from PLB Editions. PLB
Editions is a Guadeloupe-based publishing company that produces field guides to
the trees, flowers, birds and fish of the Antilles, as well as children's books and books
in Creole.































Good guides already exist to the whales and dolphins of the world, but this is the
first that we are aware of specifically devoted to the cetaceans found in the Antilles.
For the purpose of this book, the Antilles include the island chain running from
Cuba to Grenada, plus the Bahamas and the islands of Providencia and San Andres
off Nicaragua.
Whalewatching is a growing business in the region, with trips offered out of
Antigua, Dominica, the Dominican Republic, Grenada, Guadeloupe, St. Kitts &
Nevis, St. Lucia, St. Vincent and Turks & Caicos. It's also a thrill to see whales or
dolphins from the deck of a private or charter yacht.
But do you know what they are?
The great whales commonly seen in this area are the humpback (Megaptera novae
angliae, or baleine a bosse in French) and the sperm whale (Physeter macrocephalus,
or cachalot in French). A thoroughly illustrated chapter is devoted to each. There are
also chapters on each of the numerous dolphin species found in these waters.
This handy guide will be primarily of interest to Frenchspeakers, but even if your French
is rusty, the abundant, clear photos and illustrations will be useful in identification.
The publishers hope to release editions of the book in English and Spanish in the
near future.
Available in Guadeloupe at the Musee Balen ka Soufle 1 Bouillante, and at other
outlets in Guadeloupe and Martinique.
For more information contact evastropic@wanadoof.r.


Portrait of Port


of Spain


Historic Landmarks of Port of Spain, by Michael Anthony. Macmillan Caribbean
2008. Hard cover or paperback, 102 pages, color photos throughout.
ISBN 978-0-333-97555-8.
Trinidadian novelist and historian Michael Anthony introduces us to the colorful,
crowded and sometimes crazy history of the capital city of Trinidad & Tobago by
writing about its most notable buildings, parks, cemeteries and public squares. His
text is well illustrated with photos and maps.
This seaside city boasts some lovely examples of traditional Caribbean architect
ture, such as the former private residence that is now Jenny's restaurant and the


exquisite Simpson House, as well as a few modern buildings that reflect both taste
and a sense of place and culture. Unfortunately, it also has some discordantly severe
specimens, such as the Colonial Life Building and the Treasury Building, that seem
more reminiscent of Soviet Russia than emblematic of the country that made
Carnival the premier Caribbean art form. Most visitors will have seen the ornate,
Europeaninfluenced, early 20th century "Magnificent Seven" buildings laid out
along the Queen's Park Savannah, and these are given due attention. The full selec
tion of examples shows Port of Spain and its history as they are the good, the bad
and the ugly.
Each building or site acts as a focal point for the author's description of a different
aspect of Port of Spain's history, and the sum of the parts is a well rounded picture
of a unique Caribbean town.
We only wish that the book's cover, which shows a statue of a rather bored-looking
Sir Ralph Woodford (British governor from 1813 to 1828), had instead depicted
something as lively as Port of Spain itself.
Available at bookstores in Trinidad or at www.Macmillan caribbean.com.


















ISLAND STORY


The Condition, by Jennifer Haigh. HarperCollins, 2008. Hardcover,
ISBN 978-0-06-075578-2.

Imaginary islands in fiction tend to be one of two types: a truly fantastic place,
without specific geology or position, where ... i..... extraordinary, good or bad,
can happen or a place grounded in reality, I .. ..... of existent known islands,
where 11..... more common to our general experience happen. As examples, con
sider ,ii .... Golding's Lord of the Flies or Herman Melville's Omoo. In Golding's
allegorical novel, extraordinary adventures beset a group of boys stranded on an
i- inr-q- iland after a plane crash; in Melville's story, on the other hand, the hero
S ... Typee, an island based on the Marquesas, and moves on to Tahiti and
elsewhere. However conceived, there is about islands in literature a certain magical
quality and we have only to recall Shakespeare's The Tempest to see that change and
transformation can occur on an imaginary island, far from civilization, so-called, and
organized society.
St. Raphael, the Caribbean island in Jennifer Haigh's new novel The Condition, fits
more or less in the second group. Haigh's two previous novels are Baker Towers
(2005) and the PEN/Hemingway Award-winning Mrs. Kimble (2003). St. Raphael is
described as being in the Leewards and yet a hurricane strikes nearby St. Lucia. In
fact, St. Raphael resembles St. Lucia in most respects, with a French patois, inclu
sive resorts on a north coast, nude beaches, reef and wall diving, a cruise ship ter
minal, drug running, and so on.
Not that it really matters.
What does matter is that it is an island that facilitates change -change in the
novel's major character. Gwen McKotche suffers from a rare genetic disorder,
Turner's Syndrome, which is caused by -i71. or defective X chromosome in
females. It occurs in about one of 2,500 I ....1 births. Its main symptoms are
short stature and infertility-ovaries do not develop. There is no cure for the problem
although growth-hormone injections and estrogen can modify some of the symp-
toms. The girl ages intellectually and emotionally but remains physically arrested at
age 12, before puberty. As a result, Gwen has suffered all her adult life for being
something of a freak, and her immediate family has suffered to various degrees with
and because of her disorder. However, it is on St. Raphael, at age 34, that Gwen
comes into her own and finds acceptance for who she is, as she is. And to some
extent, at that point, the story line leaves medical boundaries and ascends into
unbounded transformation.
One of the few activities Gwen does is scuba diving and it is to dive that she trav
els to St. Raphael. Once installed in "Pleasures," a resort catering to singles, she
suffers the usual humiliations that come with her condition. But in the water, "She
i. i.... i.i a spirit who'd escaped its container. She had no body. It was the
:. -. had ever known." On the boat she meets Rico, the dive master, and
new possibilities unfold. In meeting him, she meets herself and for the first time
experiences a "wild random joy." While Rico, a native islander, is in many ways a
stock character (the handsome, glib boat operator to whom the vacation girls give
their room keys), he is also a sort of Prospero.
The novel is not about Gwen alone, however, even though it is written around her.
Gwen's family members -father, mother, older brother, and younger brother
i 1 .' .1 attention. It is really a multilayered story about a dysfunctional New
I ., i i .,i a domestic psychodrama that takes place over some 25 years. Both
parents and both siblings also have conditions that could be considered as aberrant
as Turner's, outside what the mother considers "the natural order of things." The
family members are all sympathetically and deeply imagined, and have their own
points-of-view. The narrative is languorously and skillfully told, meticulously
researched, and profoundly moving.
It is the youngest son, Scott, who is sent by the mother to St. Raphael to find out
what has happened to Gwen and bring her "back to civilization" -back to the USA,


back to her job as a curator in a Pittsburgh anthropological museum, back to her
-.11 .1,. family, back to a pretty miserable, bleak, and solitary life. In Scott's
o. I Gwen, we see a different view of St. Raphael and its locals, and we see
how the island affects him.
The Condition is a novel of reversals -characters go one way only to go another
and then still another. While Gwen does escape the continent and find a new life on
St. Raphael with Rico, the other family members are changed only to remain, in the
end, no different. The novel is arguably less about Gwen than about her mother,
Paulette -selfish, neurotic, partly educated and partly vacant, all controlling.
Be that as it may, we are not at all unhappy with Gwen's island fate and the heal
ing hope of love, the power of transformation. Nor are we unhappy to see the cul
tural assumptions each 1 ... I ....1 1. i.. ... i Not just beauty or ugliness,
the "normal" or the "dev .,,i i i 11 i i.- ........ ... come to see in this compel
ling, insightful novel, are in the eye of the beholder.
Available at bookstores and from www.amazon.com.





Winft r ni rh I'e H 11. . . Awn r.A


JENNIFER HAIGH
Au0lhbr ol M-rs KCiM#lir


Guides that just

keep getting

better

r..BRADO NA











BOOK REVIEW BY BOB BERLINGHOF





Whodunnit -



and Who are the Redlegs?




Trouble Tree, by John Hill Porter. Macmillan Caribbean, @2008. 320 pages.
ISBN 978-4050-7105-5.
Trouble Tree is a murder mystery that cleverly links an NYPD arson detective with his father's m uble Tr
roots in Barbados. In the opening scene a mysterious lanky stranger shoots the detective, Ben. R
Cumberbatch, in the head. Although Ben goes temporarily into a coma, the wound is not fatal.
However, it requires extensive therapy for Ben to recall any events in the near past. As part of his
therapy he starts writing his family history, and the reader begins to discover Ben's troubled fam-
ily tree. "Trouble tree doan bear no blossom" is the Bajan proverb that lends the book its name.
Ben and his father, Nate, are descendants of Bajan "redlegs", a combination c i i .I. i i i
ors, Scottish poor and Irish political prisoners who were sent to the colonies .-... i I i
servants", virtual slaves to the plantation owners of the 17th and 18th Centuries. They
worked on the plantations for at least seven years. They were desperately poor and became
inbred, since they looked down upon marrying blacks as much as their masters looked down
on them. I .. . ... ,I' ii, Dora fathered Nate with a black man so that Nate wouldn't
suffer the ,, I .1 I 1.- two half siblings. Unfortunately the read .' I know
Nate, since he dies while Ben is in the coma. Nate is portrayed as a: -I ..-.i I I .II. and l
fun-loving gigolo before his life was cut short, the victim of a vicious attack in Brooklyn.
All is not well in Barbados, either, as Ben's uncle is murdered and the murder is covered up
by the local Police Chief, Ollie Shorter. In an amazing coincidence, Ben and Ollie were child
hood friends Ben had visited his Grandmother Dora for three consecutive summers as a
youth and Ollie's sister Annie had been Ben's first love. Annie comes back into Ben's life in
an unexpected way, giving the novel a tasteful and sexy twist to the menacing conspiracy that
Ben is trying to uncover.
Murder and (in another coincidence) arson are eventually linked back to a mysterious
group of wealthy power brokers who rule the island. Ben pays a heavy price to try and
uncover the murderers through expert sleuthing and a forensic lab in New York City. My
only problem with the original mystery was that it was a little too obvious. A clumsy clue
was dropped early on that killed the suspense for m T -------- t 1 .
as Ben tries to regain memories of the night he was -1. .11. i i .. i ..... ,i.. .i
compromise his objectivity. The ending is satisfying, though bittersweet, and Ben joins the
ranks of Sam Spade (as played by Humphrey Bogart) as a hero.
My second problem with the book had to do with one of its villains, a man whose homo-
.. i ,. .... I ... i, i. i i I i ,,-that he became a homicidal nut.
S i. I I i i. i. ,., thor took some pains to describe
the misery i,' .i ,'I' prejudice in the Caribbean can cause. Recognizing prejudice is
one thing, ,i I 'I ... negative stereotypes only clutters the mind that the prejudice is
somehow warranted.
Given these faults, the novel is lucidly written, particularly the early chapters about
young Ben in Barbados. As he works in his Grandma Dora's garden every day to earn
his keep, he learns the value of hard labor, family ties, and money and class differences
in the West Indies. The "redlegs" today have offspring in St. Vincent (Dorsetshire Hill),
Bequia (Mount Pleasant), Grenada (Mount Moritz), and in Carriacou, the irony being
that in those islands many are among the most well-to-do of local families i"' I
of their work ethic and maritime skills. But Trouble Tree has a universal i,, i ..
core, which redeems its minor flaws. I couldn't put it down a fascinating and edify-
ing read.
Available at bookstores or from www.macmillan caribbean.com.


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Continuedfrom page 10 ...Eco News
He also stated that the workshop will assist in building a network throughout the
Grenadines as plans are underway for the annual International Coastal Cleanup
scheduled for September 20th.


Litter is everybody's concern. While the Grenadines tackled the problem with a workshop for community
awareness and education (above), in Venezuela (below) a massive beach clean-up
was organized on Isla La Tortuga


't4


VIP -


* I Lv .rvlirorrrcrtollIv frierd.l houlou Iu
* 50-ton hoist, 18ft beam, 8ft draft
0 Water N W
* Do it yourself or labour available
SMini- Marina VHF: 16 tbyh@usa.net
* Chandlery Tel/Fax: 473.443.8175


Venezuelan Eco-Group on the Move
The Venezuelan environmental group Fundaci6n La
Tortuga (FLT) has stepped up its activities to keep their
country's Caribbean coastline clean and green.
On July 18th, nine youngsters from the Don Bosco
Children's Home in Puerto La Cruz celebrated Children's
Day by ....... I I I members in an educational environment
tal surv. I il. l' coastal surroundings and collecting litter
from Lecheria Beach in the process.
From the 24th through the 27th of July, the group held a
coastal clean-up netting nearly a ton of debris. More than 50
volunteers, who camped out in tents for three nights,
li removed trash and other contaminants from beaches on the
north side of Isla La Tortuga, the second-largest island in
the country.
Throughout 2008, FLT has undertaken various scientific
expeditions aimed -t m-i..t-r-i;. listing and collecting data
lllll on the natural : -... I I La Tortuga. Assisted by
researchers from the Oceanographic Institute of Venezuela,
the University of Sucre State and the Sea Turtle 'i i
Group of Nueva Esparta, the subjects studied so :. I.
included birds, sea turtles, vegetation, corals, phytoplank
ton, cetaceans, algae and sponges.
A recent FLT-assisted avian study by professor Gedio Marin
of the University of Oriente listed the 37 species of seabirds,
endemics tn-1 -mir.r.t- 'visitors found on Isla Tortuga, 11 of
which are i I I I I I notes th.t ---hil- Hir+-- t-hin i-
valuable component of tourism, I .. i i .
tic... .. i i.l .... .. ii.. i 3 to these birds.
Pi' .. . .r .... ....... www.fundacionlatortuga.org.
Jost van Dyke Wildlife Surveyed
During a recent environmental survey, researchers Jean
Pierre Bacle and Kevel Lindsay of the Island Resources
Foundation recorded three species of bats and five species
of frogs on the British Virgin Island of Jost van Dyke.
The species of bats recorded were the Cave Bat
jamaicensis) and Pallas' Mastiff Bat (Molossus molossus).
The five species of frogs identified were the Antillean Frog
(Eleutherodactylus antillensis), the Mute Frog (E. lentus),
Schwartz's Eleuterodactylus (E. Schwartzi), Cochranes's
Eleutherodactylus (E. Cochrane) and the White-lipped Frog
(Leptodactylus albilaris).
Other interesting findings were the presence of two spe
cies of harmless endemic snake -the Virgin Islands Tree
Boa (Epicrates monensis grant) and the Virgin Islands
Worm Snake (Typhlops richardi). Three species of rare
plants Jost van Dyke's Indian Mallow Bastardiopsis egg
ersii, the ..... 1 Cherry (Malpighia woodburyana) and
Cockspur ti -*ii, . eggersii) -were also identified. The
latter two plants were observed on Jost van Dyke for the
S first time.
These findings are an initial output of an environmental
project on Jost van Dyke that focuses on advancing envi
ronmental protection and sustainable development on that
island. The project started in April and is expected to be
completed in December 2009. TI. i-i--t 1 -- coordi
nated by the Jost van Dykes I 1 I .h ,, Society
(JVDPS), a local, non profit corporation dedicated to the
preservation of the island of Jost van Dyke i.e. its land, the
n. ; :-l;-; =ea, its living creatures and its culture.
I .... I... I 1. Project comes from the Overseas Territories
1. Environmental Programme (OTEP) and is disbursed through
the Governor's Office.
Continued on next page


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continued from previous page
Research on the natural and historical environment
of Jost van Dyke will continue over the next six
months, after which an environmental profile of Jost
van Dyke will be prepared.
Community input will be sought throughout the
project and the community will be kept up to date on
the progress of the project. Several of the Jost van
Dyke residents who were present at a community
meeting held on May 6th to intro l- tll i i-t
voiced their support for tl- -- i t i i .... 11 .I ,
to conserve the natural .. .. ... .. i -1 van Dyke.
District Officer Carmen Blyden fully supports the ini
tiative, noting that at present the children of Jost van
Dyke study the natural environment of the :. ..11
ing islands of Tortola and Anegada. In her -
project such as this gives us our own identity".
For more information on the project visit www.
jvdgreen.org. For more information on the Jost van
Dykes Preservation Society visit wwwjvdps.org.
Bonaire Tracks Sea Turtles
Among its other efforts, Sea Turtle Conservation
Bonaire (STCB) provides a unique service e-mail
updates of the current whereabouts of sea turtles that


In the last several years STCB has tracked a total of
six turtles to the waters off Nicaragua and Honduras.
Another female loggerhead, named ' .. Girl",
was fitted with a satellite transmitter ,, II' 1st of
August, after she l. 1 1 .. 1 1. .. 1 1, at Klein
Bonaire. With Gre., i i i 1.I i 11. goal of
deploying two transmitters on turtles in 2008.
Sea Turtle Conservation Bonaire exists to ensure the
protection and recovery of Bonaire's sea turtle popular
tions throughout their range. Founded in 1992, the
STCB is a Bonaire-based, non-governmental and non
profit organization, part of the Wider Caribbean Sea
Turtle Conservation Network.
For more information visit www.bonaireturtles.org.
St. Lucia Marina Resort Joins Green Link
Discovery at Marigot Bay on the west coast of St.
Lucia has joined the Leading Green Link programme.
Through Leading Green Link, Discovery at Marigot
Bay now enables travellers to make their reservations
carbon-neutral when booking online at www.discov
erystlucia.com. Each time they do so, The Leading
Hotels of the World, Ltd. makes a contribution to
Sustainable Travel International (STI), a non-profit
organisation dedicated to promoting responsible travel
through programmes that allow consumers to contrib


Turtle tracks from 2003 and 2004. A Bonaire-based conservation group uses satellite technology to learn more
about our fellow voyagers


are being tracked by satellite. In July, ;-ii thi- free
service, we had the opportunity to foil .-I ", a
female loggerhead turtle, as she swam from Bonaire
toward Nicaragua at a rate of between 80 and 100
kilometres a day.


ute to the well-being of the places they visit.
"By particip ati;- : i tl-i: .i ; .-; -- .1-1-
gueststo help : I ..... I .. 1 . i 1 .. ..
the donation of funds to offset the carbon emissions
generated during their entire stay at Discovery, via


the Leading Green Initiative," said Discovery's
Manager, Carl Beviere. "And we are pleased to note
that our room rates have not been inflated to support
thi i- -:;-. .-- so there is no cost whatsoever to
oL. .,, -i-
- -1. i unched lastyear 11' i
initiative is an innovative carbon -, I i i
to enable and encourage guests to make conscious
decisions and contributions towards environmentally
friendly travel.
This is not the first time Discovery has undertaken
environmentally conscious initiatives. In July 2007,
the hotel launched the Caribbean's first solar-powered
ferry, the Sunshine Express, which won an Islands
magazine Blue Award. In addition, all grey water is
cleaned and filtered and used for irrigation, nothing
goes into the waters of Marigot Bay. Discovery is work
ing together with the rest of the local community to
renourish the sand on nearby Labas Beach, and to
stop future erosion by building protective reefs and
regulating boat activity.
For more information on the Leading Green Initiative
visit www.lhwgreen.com.
Research Cruise Postponed
A cruise of the Grenadines aimed at completing a
marine habitat map of that area has been postponed
owing to the injury of three participants in a speed
boat accident.
As reported in last month's Compass, the
Grenadines "MarSIS" (Marine Resource and Space
use Information System) is an on-going research
project led by Kim Baldwin, a PhD student of the
Centre for Resor' "1 .' i-.~-n- t n.;- Environmental
Studies of the ... -, i i I .. together with
the Sustainable Grenadines Project based in Union
Island. Kim has been working with local marine
resource users of the Grenadines to map the various
marine resources as well as identify areas of impor
tance for conservation as well as for the livelihoods of
the Grenadine communities.
The researchers had intended to spend the month of
August aboard a catamaran from The Moorings,
" -mlrin n-i mprring the little-known deeper areas
i ' '.. i i ,i by either scuba diving or using a
drop camera to collect data.
Unfortunately, on the fourth day of the cruise, after
refilling gas and scuba tanks in Admiralty Bay, Bequia,
in preparation for data collection in Balliceau and
Battowia the next day, the SVG Fisheries Division
pirogue in which Kim and her colleagues Sophia
Punnett and Eustaces "Santa" Vincent were travelling
crashed into the rocks off Moonhole on their way back
to the catamaran anchored in Friendship Bay. All
three suffered injuries, which resulted in cancellation
of the August cruise.
All are recovering. Kim, whose shoulder was broken,
says, "The doctors say I need six to nine months before
they will allow me to get back on a boat and diving and
be able to use my arm in a physically demanding
capacity. I do want to reassure everyone that the
research will definitely continue and we are tentatively
planning for a June 2009 survey, since the lobster
surveys need to occur during closed season."
For more information on the Sustainable Grenadines
Project visit http://cermes.cavehill.uwi.edu/susgrena
dinesIndex.html.


Bequia Marina

Open Monday to Saturday 8:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m.
Look for the Big Blue Building and ask for Stan or Miguel!
Water, Diesel, Ice, Bottled Water and Dockage available.

The Yacht Club, Bequia Marina, Port Elizabeth, Bequia,
St. Vincent & The Grenadines
VHF 68, Telephone 784-457-3361


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A






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Dolly's Answer

2 1 0, 1 1 . ...,
Ca3 I sL An H N T A p needs
Dolly's Answer U


5 A N I M A
6 M O N E
8 S LINNAE S
Special word: LINNAEUS


L A
-N 7
T IE M M


by Devi Sharp


Making yogurt is not an art -it is a science. I make 1.. ....i r week aboard
Arctic Tern, and the cost is about 50 cents (US) per p .. I -1 I .11 I always have
:-.;; for breakfast and recipes.
I obliged to extol the virtues of yogurt, so here is my list: yogurt is high in
protein and calcium, low in calories, and has those wonderful bacteria that help our
gut stay healthy.
Select containers with tight fitting lids. I like the Ziploc brand plastic containers
with screw-on lids. Wash the containers and let them air dry or dry them with a
clean towel.


Above: A warm yacht engine makes a nifty yogurt incubator

Below: Or you can use an insulated bag to keep your culture happy


In a saucepan, combine the appropriate quantities of water and powdered milk to
fit your containers) and mix thoroughly. I usually use powdered skimmed milk, but
the few times I have made it with whole milk it did not taste much different. Instead
of powdered, you can use fresh or long-life milk, but you still must follow through
on heating it.
Heat the milk (with frequent stirring) in the saucepan to just near boiling (180F).
Heating the milk kills any undesirable bacteria that might be present and also
changes the properties of the milk protein so that it gives the -- ; t fi;;er body
and texture. Use a plastic or Teflon spoon or stainless whisk t1 -'" i I wooden
spoons because they tend to hold bacteria that might interfere with the bacteria in
the yogurt.)
Allow the milk to cool slightly. When it reaches 110F to 115F, add starter. Starter
can be yogurt that you have saved from your last homemade batch - 1 qual
ity, unflavored and unsweetened commercial yogurt. Add about a i. .. I a Cup
of starter for every three Cups of milk. Mix well but gently. Do not incorporate too
much air. If too much air is mixed in, the starter culture will grow slowly.
Pour milk into clean containers) and cover with lid(s). Incubate the filled contain
ers at about 110F. Do not stir the yogurt during this period. I put the containers in
a small, insulated "thermo" bag in the sun, or place the containers directly on Arctic
Tern's main engine if it is hot.
Maintain the 110F temperature until the milk coagulates with a firm custard-like
consistency (three to eight hours). Check by ..i 1.11i... ihe container, then refrig
erate. It will keep for two to three weeks in I. ,. .
I know that my incubation temperature is not exactly at 110F, and while the
yogurt may not be perfect it is always good. Remember to use a thermometer and
clean utensils -that is the science part.
Devi is currently making yogurt aboard the sailing vessel Arctic Tern in Venezuela.


















ST AR



IHav1:111 I


Have you seen the yellow, waxy, multi-sided, Star
Trek-looking fruit in the market? West Indians call it
star fruit, five :.... or carambola. There are two
varieties of star i-... our and sweet. The fruits with
narro i.... r ribs are less sweet than the fruits
with I .. .
The fruit starts out green, and goes to yellow as it
ripens; it can be eaten in both stages. In Trinidad I
learned to make Five-Fingers C. .11 i. -.i,.i.i
ripe fruit. The ripe fruit makes a i ..i -... i -1.
ing juice, and in Grenan i .i ,n Concord I tried
tasty five-fingers wine. '; i i fingers are great
eaten just picked and washed and the green or slight
ly ripe ones make excellent chow. They can also be
stewed with cloves and raisins. Star fruit, cooked or
raw, are a great accompaniment for seafood. Sliced
crosswise into the five-pointed star shapes that give
the fruit one of its names, this is a pretty and tasty
addition to any fruit salad.
The star fruit is believed to have originated in Sri
Lanka or Ceylon and was cultivated for centuries in
Southeast Asia before Spanish explorers brought trees
to the Caribbean and the Americas.

!1ilXALE91


1 teaspoon baking powder
1 teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon powdered ginger
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/4 Cup currants or raisins
Wash, de-seed and mince star fruit. Combine the
fruit, sugar, milk, and egg in a large bowl. In another
bowl mix the remaining ingredients. Slowly add the
dry in;-;--1i-int to the fruit combination and mix until
all I II ... .- moist. Add a little extra flour if fruit is
very juicy. Don't over-blend. Pour into greased bread
pans and bake at 350F for 45 minutes.
Increase amount of sugar if you have a sweet
tooth or if star fruit is not sweet.
** Use up to a half Cup more flour if fruit is
very juicy.
Star Chicken
1 chicken, cut into serving pieces
1/4 Cup olive oil
2 Tablespoons honey
1/4 Cup fresh limejuice
2 Tablespoons lime zest (grated lime peel)
1 large sweet onion, sliced paper thin
1 Tablespoon fresh ginger, minced
1/2 hot pepper, seeded and minced
salt to taste
4 star fruit, sliced in quarter-inch stars
1/2 Cup raw almonds (cashews or peanuts may
be substituted)
1 bunch chadon benne, chopped fine
Combine chicken, oil, honey, limejuice and zest,
onions, ginger, pepper and salt in a large bowl, pref
erably one with a tight cover. Cover and refrigerate
for a day or two, stirring occasionally. Put chicken
mixture in a baking dish and cover with the nuts.
Arrange star fruit slices over the top. Cover with foil



'LIM


..V


-5 5
Star fruit juice will clean brass and silver! It will also
remove rust stains from white clothes. West Indians
use the five-l... . I I i I ... ... I .1 pur
poses. The 1 i... .11 i. . ... I p.ench
the associated thirst. Boiled fruit will relieve diarrhoea
or a hangover. A salve made by continuously ....
the fruit to almost nothing is reportedly good :
infections. Eating the ripe fruit is said to reduce hae
morrhoids. A poultice of crushed leaves will fight ring
worm. The powdered seeds are said to have a sedative
effect and are useful in fighting children's colic.
One average star fruit has about ten calories. The
fruit is high in carbohydrates, calcium, phosphorus,
Vitamin C, and amino acids.
Star Fruit Bread
4 medium star fruit
1/2 Cup sugar*
3/4 Cup milk
1 egg
1 Cup whole-wheat flour
1 Cup white bakers flour**
3/4 teaspoon salt


and bake at 375F for about half an hour. Then
uncover and bake for another 20 minutes. Add cha
don bene just before serving.
FOR THE FARMERS:
Growing a tree from seed is difficult since the seeds
become infertile within a few days after removing
them from the fruit, so have your potting soil ready!
Choose nice fat seeds to plant, water carefully, and
they should sprout in a week to ten days. Grafted
trees can also be purcha 1 .1 1 .. -1. I -; or nurs
series. A star fruit tree is i i I ... garden as
they seldom grow more than 15 to 20 feet tall. If
planting more than one, keep them at least 20 feet
apart. Make certain the area you plant is well
drained, as standing water is this tree's biggest
enemy. However, star fruit must be watered regu
larly during the dry season to produce a juicy crop.
Run a hose for a half an hour every week during a
dry spell. If necessary, spray the tree with a pesti
cide-miticide and foliar fertilizer once a month, and
sprinkle about a half-cup of blue 12-12-17-2 every
month around the base.


I SERVING AT SEA BY SHIRLEY HALL~


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on the widest selection and the
best pnces in Grenada at our two
conveniently located supermarkets
Whether its canned goods, dairy
products, meat, fresh vegetables
or fruits, tolletnes, household goods,
or a fine selection of liquor and wine,
The Food Fair has it all and a lot more

Hubbard's
JONAS BROWNE & HUBBARD (G'da) Ltd


The

Food

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I-
The Carenage:
Monday Thursday
8 am to 5:30 pm
Friday until 8:45 pm
Saturday until
1:00 pm
Tel: (473) 440-2588
Grand Anse:
Monday Thursday
9 am to 5:30 pm
Friday & Saturday
until 7:00 pm
Tel: (473) 444-4573


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CANDY IS DANDY...


by Ross Mavis


"You'll catch more flies with sugar than you can with vinegar,"
was the advice Nana always would give when talking about deal- I
ing with people. And, you know, she was right. Most of us
respond to sweet talk better than to harsh or bitter comments.
Many of us like sweetness in our lives and in our diets.
Very few people are born without a sweet tooth. The sweetness
of sugar is quite seducing. Many centuries ago, sugar was called
"white gold" due to its scarcity and expense at a time when only
the rich could afford the substance. The ancient Persians and
Arabians cultivated sugar in the 4th century B.C. and it was
some 500 years later that it became known to the Western World.
Rock-hard cakes or loaves of crystallized coarse sugar then
ranged in colour from off-white to light brown. If you were to use
any in your tea or coffee, it was necessary to chisel off a chunk
or grind it into a powder.
Today refined sugar is white and very pure. It is primarily made
from sugar cane and sugar beets. Many types of sugar can be
found in most of the foods we eat daily. Check the content labels
on the foods you buy at the supermarket. You'll see regular sugar
(sucrose); fruit sugars (dextrose, fructose and levulose); :...ii .. (lactose) and maltose (malt sugar).
I have both fond and painful memoric f :;. .- n i. my i.i I, i A fond one involves penny candies. A favorite
was the small chocolate-covered bears .11 I I I i. -". Under the chocolate exterior lurked hard, red, cinnamon
candy. Teddies would last almost forever in your mouth if you could discipline yourself to follow mother's instruc
tions and not crunch them. Two of these candies could be had for one penny, giving almost a morning's worth of
sucking. Horehound nuggets, jaw-breakers and all-day suckers kept many kids out of their parents' hair and out
of trouble for hours on end.
The -;:;;i't f:;'-.- treats alsc 1. 1- - .1-1 flashbacks, like the time I ignored Mum's advice to keep clear
of the I .. I1 1 1 she had I I i ,, ,i counter. It was near-paralytic shock I experienced when my
inquisitive finger, sneaking over the counter f ;nd its way into the pan of molten sugary lava. Less painful
but as vivid in my memory was when two i.I II. I friends and I were caught stealing jelly powders from our
basement storeroom. It was easy to spot the guilty culprits, for our mouths and hands were bright yellow and
orange from fingers dipped into boxes of this sweet dessert mix. This must have been the inspiration for shoplift
ing dye markers!


























Sugar does more than just sweeten our food. It helps preserve some items such as candied fruit and citrus peel.
It also stabilizes egg whites in meringue, gives a golden-brown colour to baked goods and helps make dough light
and tender.
What is sold in North America as "brown sugar" is not raw or unrefined sugar, as some people think. Molasses
is added to white sugar to produce either a light or dark brown product. In the Caribbean, raw or unrefined cane
sugar is widely available.
I believe everyone needs some sweetness in his or her life. If the only way you can get it is from sugar, then God
love you and we'll pass the sugar. Sugar is not the white villain that it has been portrayed to be. (And don't be
fooled ...Ii ,,,i .... that honey or maple sugar is lower in calories because of being a so-called natural product.)
Like 11. 1,,.- ,1 used in moderation, sugar can be a simple but wonderful pleasure.
If you are looking for a fun way to spend a rainy afternoon with the kids below deck, why not make some candy?
Let kids help with the initial measuring out of ingredients and, of course, sampling the end results. Keep some
tasks for yourself. Hot and dangerous stovetop cooking, and melted sugar mixes that are akin to molten lava, must
be handled carefully by an adult.
Most candy making requires the use of a good candy thermometer. However, here's an easy recipe that does not
need one.
Dark Chocolate Fudge
2 cups miniature marshmallows (or large marshmallows cut into small pieces)
1 pound (450 g) semi-sweet chocolate chips
11 oz (300 ml) tin sweetened condensed milk
1 1/2 teaspoons (7 ml) vanilla extract
Combine marshmallows, chocolate chips and condensed milk in a large saucepan and cook over low heat for
about 8 minutes, stirring often. When contents are melted and smooth, stir in vanilla and pour into a greased
8-inch (19 cm) square cake pan. Score lightly with a knife and cool until nicely firm. Cut into squares.
Remember, boiling syrup is extremely hot and very dangerous. Keep young children clear when boiling liquids
on the stove or working with boiling liquids in the galley.







































Dear Compass,
WHEW: eSeaClear! (Caribbean Compass, August
2008.) Sounds like the Grenada online one-page clear
ance form meets APIS, although fortunately without
requirements and the timing restrictions of APIS. The
downside is that all the technological and process
issues are the same.
There are many cruising yachts and probably even
more bareboat charter yachts that do not have com-
puters on board, and some of those who do have
computers do not have wireless capability. So, even if
an anchorage does have wireless internet (free wire
less is scarce and many fee-based services are quite
costly, if used only to access eSeaClear), many yachts
will have to find an internet cafe at a cost of EC$5 to
EC$10 per visit. That doesn't sound like much but it
adds up when you consider a visit for -1.-; n: i and
clearing out of each country. And wha ,' ,I .1... rnet
goes down? Not an uncommon occurrence in many of
these islands.
Am I reading this correctly to understand that there
will be computers in the Customs offices for use by
yachtsmen to update their eSeaClear notification? In
the dusty commercial Customs offices of Hillsborough,
Carriacou, and Glanvilia (Prince Rupert Bay),
Dominica? And in the already crowded office at Rodney
Bay? It seems to me that allowing people to update
their notification at the Customs office will take even
longer than completing the paperwork by hand.
In the many years we have been clearing in and out
of these countries, it rarely takes more than five min-
utes to fill in the forms. This is a two-time occurrence
per visit (once upon entry, once when leaving) and is
not a big deal if the Customs and Immigration person
nel are at their stations. The Grenada '- i f-
does nothing to alleviate this problem. ...... 11
spend more time than that waiting in line for an avail
able officer, either because there are others ahead of
us or because the officer is at lunch or watching
cricket on TV, or the office isn't even open!
And what about the 'rp'in -e processes these coun
tries use different: .... I .11 countries and even
different steps for clearing in and out within the
same country?
And when I clear out, how do I get from eSeaClear a
paper copy to take to my next port, especially if that
country is not yet online with eSeaClear and how do I
keep track of which ports are accepting eSeaClear
notification and which are not?
And what about a piece of paper to show
Customs or the Coast Guard, if they come around
checking papers?
I hope none of the OECS members spent any money
contributing to this system and installing equipment
because I doubt that many yachts will make use of it.
I don't know anyone who uses the Grenada online one
page form it's just not worth the extra effort, par
ticularly because it is designed for 8 x 14" paper,
which very few yachts carry on board. eSeaClear is no
different -of no "intrinsic" value to the yachtsman.
"Clear Customs faster and more efficiently so you can
start enjoying your visit sooner"? This is not apparent
to me in the description given. Most probably the
megayachts will use eSeaClear, and we all know that
the island chain : ;-;: ;; f r what they believe will
be a huge influx I . .
It seems to me that resources could have been better
spent in streamlining and standardizing the processes
already in place, rather than adding a technologically
elegant but useless-in-practice solution.
Sign me,
Concerned Long-Time Cruiser

We asked Caribbean Marine Association President,
Keats Compton, who along with the Caribbean Customs
Law Enforcement Council announced eSeaClear in last
month's Compass, for clarification, which follows.
CC


Dear Compass,
It appears that our "Concerned Long-Time Cruiser"
may have misread the intent of the eSeaClear facility
(www.eSeaClear.com) that the CMA/CCLEC partner
ship is attempting to deliver to our valued yachting
customers, so we need to clarify the situation.
First and foremost, use of the system is voluntary
(i.e. completely optional), and doesn't replace the
paper form, should cruisers prefer to use it.
St. Lucia is one of two pilot locations (BVI is the
other) designed to solicit feedback from users, which
will be incorporated into enhancements or improve
ments by the developers for product roll-out. This is
totally unlike APIS, which was imposed -or attempt
ed to be -on the industry. We do not compare
eSeaClear to APIS, as the former is driven and owned
by Customs, the latter by the border control brigades!
Secondly, the use of the internet is designed to
facilitate voyage-data entry from whatever source cho
sen by cruisers, prior to departure -it has been
assumed that a significant number of yachtsmen are
able to access the internet from a land-based com-
puter. Alternatively, computers will be available at
ports of arrival, and the document will be printed there
and then, with the copy retained by the captain, for
presentation at the next port, wherever that may be,
as happens now. Unlike the paper clearance, both
entry and departure details are entered at the same
time, on the same screen -a one-time occurrence,
not two, as .1 i i our writer -surely this is time
saved! In :'ii"'. 11' entry on-line, the problem of
Customs being out to lunch, or cricket or other diver
sion will not prevent the Customs from accessing the
data, should a cruiser use a cell-phone to alert the
Officer on his or her return.
Our writer also needs to think "data" as opposed to
"forms". The individual countries can decide on what
shape a printed form should take, never mind what
appears on the screen, which will be the same at all
locations. Additionally, our cruisers only need to cre
ate a new voyage notification where crew data hasn't
changed -you can't use your carbon-paper clearance
once your return journey has been processed.
As more countries adopt eSeaClear, we will notify the
trade through the usual channels, including Compass.
Computer-based clearance is I 1... at the
port of Marin (Martinique), inside r i., Customs
office, using an unfamiliar French keyboard. We
hope to persuade them to adopt eSeaClear, but
Martinicans coming to St. Lucia are able to use the
facility from the comfort of their homes, and are
thrilled at the prospect.
The OECS hasn't spent any money on this, and the
reach of eSeaClear will ultimately spread beyond the
OECS countries. We sincerely hope that the concerns
expressed are not an argument for the exclusion of
computers from the yachting domain, which would
surely' ., 1 1 step.
More i i 'Icome.
Keats Compton, President
CMA

Dear Caribbean Compass,
I was visiting the Tobago Cays Marine Park in the St.
Vincent Grenadines on Saturday, July 5th. As I was
cruising around in the park, I saw a tour operator's
large catamaran from St. Vincent with more than 50
-.t -,1- .- 1 t-- -,- .11 ---r within the central part
i ii i 11 I .... i ... i i they came into shore at
Salt Whistle Bay, Mayreau.
What really got my attention when I arrived in Salt
Whistle Bay was the fact that this charter boat was
refusing to pay the park rangers the day-use fees for
coming in and using the park.
Upon further investigation, I realized that it was the
captain (who is also one of the tour company's owners)
who was refusing to pay, as well as allowing several of
his crewmembers to laugh and carry on acting rude to
the two park rangers who were politely trying to do
their job.
Eventually after much ado, which involved yelling
and other rude behaviour from the crew of the tour
catamaran, as well as a long cell phone call to the
TCMP head office, the captain/owner refused to pay
their park fees on the grounds that they were not
snorkelling in the park and that there were
Vincentians onboard.
From my discussion with a guest that was on their
charter, there was a mix of both local Vincentians who
now live abroad and tourists aboard this Carnival
weekend party cruise. Also when I talked with the
: ... 1 .1 ii i .1 i first tim e this
I I
I think it is completely outrageous that one of the
largest tour operators in St. Vincent & the Grenadines
can profit off of the utilisation of the Tobago Cays
Marine Park and dare give grief to the park rangers by
refusing to pay the stated day use fees -as well as set
such a bad example to their guests, other tourists and
local tour operators alike.
I am not sure what the owners rationale is. Maybe it is
because he and some of his guests are Vincentian that he
doesn't think they should have to pay, or maybe it was
the excuse that they didn't snorkel on Horseshoe Reef?
-Continued onpage 55


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P.O. Box 17, Kingstown














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Read in Next Month's Compass:



A Taste of Tasteful St. Kitts

Compass Fiction: Excerpts from a Caribbean Sailing Adventure

Cruisers Hike Peru


... and more!




PICK UP!
Ahoy, Compass Readers! When in Dominica, pick up your free monthly copy
of the Caribbean Compass at any of these locations (advertisers in this issue
appear in bold):




ROSEAU AREA:
Anchorage Hotel
Dive Dominica
Evergreen Hotel
Fort Young Hotel
Garraway Hotel
Outdoor World
Connie Beach Bar on Mero Beach
Yacht Inn
Dominica Marine Center
Castaway Hotel

PORTSMOUTH AREA:
Big Papa's Restaurant
Cobra Tours
Purple Turtle Beach Club/Restaurant
Sailorman's Club Restaurant
Cabrits Dive Center


of the meridian passage (or zenith) of the moon for this and next month, will help you
calculate the tides.
Water, Don explains, generally tries to run toward the moon. The tide starts running
to the east soon after moonrise, continues to run east until about an hour after the
moon reaches its zenith (see TIME below) and then runs westward. F ... I .11 I
moon's setting to just after its nadir, the tide runs eastward; and : .... I .1
nadir to soon after its rising, the tide runs westward. Ti; local.
Note: the maximum tide is 3 or 4 days after the new 1 ... ..
For more information, see 'Tides and Currents" on the back of all Imray Iolaire
charts. Fair tides!


September 2008
DATE TIME
1 1313 (new)
2 1357
3 1441
4 1527
5 1614
6 1703
7 1724
8 1845
9 1936
10 2026
11 2114
12 2201
13 2247
14 2333
15 0000 (full)
16 0019
17 0107
18 0157
19 0252
20 0350


21 0452
22 0554
23 0655
24 0753
25 0846
26 0936
27 1022
28 1107
29 1151
30 1234

October 2008
DATE TIME
1 1320
2 1407
3 1455
4 1545
5 1636
6 1727
7 1817
8 1905
9 1952


2038
2123
2209
2256
2347
0000 (full)
0041
0140
0243
0347
0449
0549
0643
0733
0820
0904
0947
1030
1115
1201 (new)
1249
1338


A Fool's Paradise?

by Jim McConn


.... 1 1 r 30,000 miles in our 31-foot Southern Cross, the Spanish Stroll
we I. i. .11 ... ed in Paradise. Or have we?
Five years into a boat ride that appears to have evolved into a circumnavigation,
Barb and I are in the Caribbean. The word itself has always conjured up visions of
beautiful white beaches shaded by coconut trees on pristine little islands. With water
the color of a Bombay gin bottle, the soft sounds of steel drums and us lounging in
hammocks, it also seemed as far away as the moon.
A very peaceful but long 65-day passage from South Afric 1 ,,9 .. i i .
We'd had plenty of time to study the Doyle guide and were : I ' '' .' I
pan music and rum shacks.


it l E Drpll I1C
I| ipqjnI IC


11-1 --. -I t

'.me.'- -- "1 c


Cfllbb Sn


Ia


*-_ Ni~c*


-4-c


a 1t


f-*DuMMM.


Although the McConns have only visited Tobago, Trinidad and Margarita sofar
a small portion (at the lower right-hand comer of this map) of the Eastern Caribbean
-their complaints are typical of those heard in other parts of the region



Making landfall at Scarborough, we checked in and spent a week cleaning up and
replenishingtheSpanish StrolS ..1 ...1 .. .. i I 1 i ...1.11,
around the edges, but nothing i Ii I 1 I .. I. II I i ... .
to see more of the island and checking in with Customs, as instructed, we were surprised
to be told we would need to return and get permission before moving again.


0 ., I-14


We pulled into Castara Bay... Continuing on through the night would be insane'


Okay, not having to bring the boat to Customs the second time, we could take the
bus or a cab. It would give us a chance to see the interior of the island! We pulled
the anchor and sailed the ten miles to Store Bay at the east end. The blaring rap
music from shore in place of the steel drums we'd so looked forward to was another
sign that things were not going to be as expected. No problem, we can't expect people
to play the same music forever just in case we might drop by and want to hear it.
The local people, who on first impression didn't seem very friendly, turned out to
be just a bit reserved. If we took the initiative by starting a conversation they were
not only friendly, but also quite helpful. Just the normal process of getting familiar.
We also became friends with several couples on boats.
-ontinued on next page











-ontinued from previous page
Things were looking up until we returned to Scarborough by bus and requested
permission to sail to Charlottesville. We were asked how long it would take us.
Although located at the northeast corner of the island, only 22 miles away, we were
expe i... .. .1 .I .i ..1.i. ...i itheTrades. Havingreadin i. i ,, 1 ,,.
the:..... I .,,.' .l. i i 1 .. I. way, with good anchorages ..i .. i i
on shore, we planned to break it into short hops. Considering the time it takes to get
to know the people in a new place and that we had been issued a three-month cruis
ing permit, I thought one month was reasonable but only asked for one week.
Our request was out of the question. The senior official said with disgust, "You just
want to stop and find bars to drink beer!" Stunned, we asked what a reasonable time-
frame might be. He responded "one day", adding that one stop of one to two hours
would be reasonable but that we would have to explain any delay on our arrival in
Charlottesville. We wouldn't be able to visit any of the places we'd read about.
Back at the boat we learned that some of our new friends had checked out the same
day but with a different official and in the absence ol I. i ,.. -1 I ., i1 i iys
to make the same trip. Others intended to "just do :i i ....... I to
reach Charlottesville, but as guests in their country we would follow the "rules".
T -in at the same time as one of the other boats, we found making headway as
1.11- ,n expected. We continued on as they turned into Courland Bay where the
anchorage and restaurants of Plymouth awaited them. Hours later and only a few
miles up the coast we pulled into Castara Bay. We'd had it. I( .I..... on through
the night would be insane. After sleeping, but without getting, I i at, we con
tinued on in the morning.


At Porlamar, yachts flew their flags at half mast after a cruiser succumbed to injuries
inflicted by a speeding local boat


Arriving in Charlottesville we pumped up the dinghy and headed for shore to check
in. With chips on all four shoulders we were prepared for the worst. The friendly wel
come we received from the officials was nearly as unexpected as the negative one at
Scarborough. Their .1 ii ......... .i1. ..i I feltas though I must
haveFREEBEER ,ii .I ...... i i, .1 . 1i -.... i- Is during our two week
stay. Our mask carved from a calabash by Maurice and our CD of songs played and
sung by Squeezy are two new treasured souvenirs added to our collection.
,i ..... .. n to i ..... i i . ... ... i .... sailing past all the
,,,,,H,,i alone . h I l ,
Arriving in Chaguaramas and dropping th .- l- t-;- 't least a hundred boats
already at anchor, we could not believe the: i ., local skiffs. Launched
one after another from a huge dry-storage facility, they would roar through the
anchorage at full speed. These were not only the local fishermen but also expensive
boats with big outboard motors and whole families on board. As the boats in the
-.-r.- were continuously rocked we wondered where the authorities could be.
SI. no laws? When the Coast Guard finally arrived it was in grand style. Half
a dozen of them in an open boat with THREE 200-horsepower outboard motors!
Roaring full speed through the anchorage they passed our boat, knocking us on our
beam ends and completely swamping our dinghy. They would do this every couple
of days when coming in for fuel. I must admit this insane behavior was infectious
and I was soon speeding around in our dinghy as fast as the little eight-horsepower
outboard would push us, and wishing we had a nine point eight.
We quickly learned that Chaguaramas is a massive boatyard/storage facility. Just
south of the hurricane zone, hundreds of yachts are hauled there annually to sit out
the dangerous season. When the owners return five or six months later, their boats
are all polished or painted and ready to go. Although not a good cruising destination,
every service was available so we decided to take advantage and have some uphol
stery and canvas work done. No bargain, but the work was done well and very
quickly. Hauling the boat out of the water, wee- I i. i.... .-i .Ird were
able to polish the oil sludge from the hull sides. .... .. ..... .... ... Tobago
were there and we did manage to have a good time.
As soon as the boat went back in the water we were on our way. After two months
in Tobago and Trinidad our nerves were shot. We couldn't wait to get to Isla
Margarita, Venezuela. Once again reading the Doyle guide, it sounded wonderful and
with a name like "Margarita" we thought it had to be good.
In Trinidad we'd been continuously warned of crime. We were advised to stay at least
30 miles offshore when traveling to avoid pirates. It seemed a bit paranoid but this lon
ger route would take us by Los Testigos islands. Like most other boats, we sailed over
night with our lights off and radar on. In Lo- I -1.. I e relaxed for the allowed two
days. The officials were very friendly and we i i.... i.1 our horrible Spanish.
Arriving in Isla Margarita, we joined another hundred boats already at anchor off
the large city of r .1 ....... -... 1 ., .... ,, in-law planned to fly in and spend
aweekwithus, .. I I 'I I 11i' I We were so glad they hadn't come
to Trinidad as originally planned.
Continued on next page


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We are looking for crew, mainly teams in the form of a Captain and a Chef/Hostess.
We prefer couples that are married OR have been living togetherfor at least a year.
The nature of the job is such that the better the understanding and teamwork
between Captain and Chef the more successful your charters will be.
Requirements: Captain with a Skipper's licence.
Chef/Hostess with a basic understanding of cooking.
Dive master/ instructor for either the Captain and/or Chef is a plus.
We offer full training onsite in the Caribbean.
This is a FUN job with great earning potential. If you are willing to work hard and
have a positive disposition to life this could be your DREAM job.
Anyone with an interest is welcome to apply.
If you would like more information about this job or send your CV to us, please
use this email address:
crew(tradewindscruiseclub.com
or by mail to: Bequia Marina, P.O.Box 194BQ, Port Elizabeth,
Bequia, St Vincent & the Grenadines
Tel. St Vincent +784 457 3407 Tel. St Maarten +599 5510550





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-ontinuedfrom previous page
Once again, though, we were shocked as the local boats started roaring at full
speed through thI ... ri T- Tb, skiffs were more traditional and made of wood,
but they were ,. .... i.. .- ... i coming even closer than those in Trinidad.
The morning of our third day at Isla Margarita we found our outboard motor had
been stolen from our dinghy. Having been warned, we'd locked both the dinghy and
motor to the yacht's stem rail. The lock had been cut. Not satisfied with our motor,
they had also taken our oars, leaving us with no way to reach shore.
Calling a more locally experienced acquaintance on the VHF radio for advice on
how to contact the police triggered an exchange between the long-timers in the
anchorage. The gist? One, it was our fault our lock had been cut and our motor
stolen because we hadn't lifted the dinghy out of the water, and two, we could report
it to the police but there was "zero chance" of
our getting it back.
The topic suddenly changed: a cruising cou
SIL % IN rOIRll AR pie in their dinghy had just been run down by
JTIa'L 1T. ,, I i, i i,. .I 1 .1 He (the cruiser)
1i11 i 1 1 1 1 i. I s all the yachts
.- lowered their flags to half mast, dozens of local
-~ _- skiffs, rather than slowing down a bit, terror
-*. ized the '.b-.-r .- charging, often two or
-three at o: i. 1 i at a yacht they would
S .. turn only at the last second missing by inches.
They were delighted if they could throw water
S into our dinghies and some made a sport of
a trying to reach out and touch them as they
S sped by. This went on from morning till night
as the operators grew more daring (intoxicat
Sned?) and the police boat sat tied to the dock,
Smnever moving.
Still 1nl:n -i--th .r. lti--- 1 tty prob
-. .M'jlww 73iK lems, I ii I I to loan
i a .- m1"- us a pair of oars and we cautiously headed for
shore. Halfway in, we realized the thieves had
also taken our shoes. With bare feet we found the police and reported our theft. Next
we contacted our daughter and, in spite of months of planning, told her not to come
to Isla Margarita.
We were told that the day of terror had been a holiday and the local people always go
crazy on holidays. What special day had stirred up so much insanity? Children's Day!
To our dismay we have found that virtually everyone here has been a victim. One
couple we met had gone to shore for a pot luck. Returning to their boat, they found
their liferaft and fenders were missing. The nice guy who brought us the oars had
recently been pistol-whipped, tied up and then had the gun held to his head as his
boat was ransacked. Outboard motor season is open year round.
The attitudes held and comments made by many of the cruisers here are also dis
turbing. We are shocked by the tendency of some cruisers to blame the victims:
thieves cut our lock and stole our property and it's our fault because we failed to
suspend it from the mast top. Come on, this thinking is as archaic as blaming the
woman for her rape because of the clothes she was wearing.
Most yachts travel in tandem with lights off while staying far from shore. Making
landfall they anchor i; 1.;; -.;ups, every-n- trin- to get in the center, then stow
all loose gear below c i 111 1 1' dinghies ..I I I 1 water before locking themselves
in for the night. Their slogan? "Lift It and Lock It or Lose It". Then they tell us "it's
this way everywhere".
In the past five years we have visited 20 countries. To our knowledge, it's not this
way anywhere else. Every place else we've visited, cruisers even singlehanders,
including females -roam freely. When cruisers lift their dinghies it's usually to keep
the bottom clean. Many sleep in their cockpits under the stars.
Our best defense is our windlass. Fortunately, we cruisers have the option of tak
ing our homes and money and leaving. The world is full of really great places.

Editor's note: Although Jim and Barb have admittedly only visited three out of the
hundreds of islands in the Caribbean, the unwelcoming attitude of a few Customs
officials, boats speeding in crowded anchorages, and dinghy theft are three perennial
complaints about Caribbean cruising. We've asked the Caribbean Safety & Security
Net and the Yacht Services Association of Trinidad & Tobago (YSATT) to comment.
Their responses follow:


Dear Compass,
There have been eight crime reports from yachts in Porlamar since the beginning
of this year and, while that looks like a crime spree, the increase is due more to
cruisers willing to report incidents to the Security Net than a crime spree itself.
For whatever reason, there has been extreme reluctance among those who spend
time in Porlamar to get the word out -they believe it tarnishes the reputation of
Margarita. However, I have been told many times by many people who have been to
Porlamar that what is reported to the Security Net is "just the tip of the iceberg".
They do, however, cover the "lock it and lift it or lose it" on the VHF net on a regular
basis. (Spanish Water, Curacao, is another anchorage where one must lift the dinghy
out of the water in addition to locking up.)
Since the Security Net "- n Porlamar has had more reports than any other
single anchorage, in spite I 11. reluctance of some cruisers to report. While one
may attribute these large nur .1 ; 1 .......1 er of visiting yachts (i.e. more
"yacht days" than any other ..- .. I II,. .1 I were valid, we would see an
increase in reports for the s ..I. .- i I* ... especially during hurricane
season, as well as an increase from Rodney Bay, St. Lucia, particularly during the
ARC arrival. While those two locations do see some increase, it is in no way pro
portionate to what has been the ongoing and consistent case in Porlamar for the
past 11 years.
With regard to the speeding local boats both in Porlamar and in Chaguaramas, one
should also add Rodney Bay to that list, as well as include the tourists on jet skis.
The tragic death of the man in Porlamar (he wasn't killed on impact, but died of
injuries while on the operating I .1 i .- ... ,I .,, I I i, .i I n. Every week
end the Porlamar anchorage ... . I I I .1 . apparently in
their fathers' boats. There have been injuries in Chaguaramas due to speeding local
boats but thankfully no deaths -yet.
The authorities in St. Lucia have been ignoring th 1i.i' -I i .1 i ,
for years. Our yacht was hit last year in Rodney .... I -,
Unfortunately, we were only one of several who were hit this past season. A friend of
ours narrowly escaped being run over by a jet-ski while cleaning his anchor rode.
There have already been injuries and hospital visits and stitches to close wounds.
Do we need to wait for a death to make an issue of it?
There has been little done by local authorities to deal with these problems. The
Porlamar police put a night patrol boat in the water after the liferaft was stolen, but
reports coming back to me indicate it was very conspicuous for three or four days
and then no longer seen. As far as the death of the cruiser is concerned, there is
apparently a continuing investigation but that is targeted to the specific incident, not
speeding boats in general.
Until local authorities take responsibility for criminal activity and dangerous
behavior affecting the tourists who visit their anchorages, these sorts of incidents are
going to continue, and may well escalate, as evidenced by the increase in speeding
in Porlamar during the several days following the incident.
Melodye Pompa
S/Y Second Millennium
for the Caribbean Safety and Security Net
SSB 8104.0 at 1215 UTC
www.safetyandsecuritynet.com


Dear Compass,
YSATT knows only too well the situation with the boats speeding in Chaguaramas
Bay and we continue to alert the relevant authorities whenever it is brought to our
attention. Unfortunately, there are no laws pertaining directly to the leisure marine
industry and specifically to "no wake" zones. The leisure marine industry, which
includes yachting, currently gets lumped under "Shipping." With regard to the prob
lems that this specific cruiser had with Customs ir I I .. lid contact the
Communications Unit of Customs & Excise and they I .' I I this response:
"The Customs and Excise Division is currently investigating ii .......
the negative attitudes of certain Customs Officers highlighted I i -
plaint. The Division has also embarked on a Customer Service training programme
as we seek to improve the overall service of the Division. The Customs and Excise
Division remains committed to facilitating i ...... trade to support the economic
growth and development of Trinidad and I ..
Regards,
Gina Hatt-Carvalho, Manager
Yacht Services Association of Trinidad & Tobago


A,-,I LAS r -:rn E L. V!r'
YACHT SEtVICeS rni.l. grpiil8In l&Uml
AND BROERAGE w.bc It eokt:r ti~hti i


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I* S awnlmau ----.--e--, ,-. USasOa 9OW ISM Cmomn Bun Thu.ran, Iat ft UI urman-_,. u1J360,a|

















An Encounter in


an E-Mail Cafe


in Venezuela

by Bernie Katchor

Here Yvonne and I are, two ancient gringos. We have driven our dinghy ashore and
locked it to the dock with a chain that goe- 1. ...'. 1i. 1I .. boardd and gas tank, and
then into a large padlock. "Everyone is a Ih I ....... I everyone tells us. (We
wonder if the people who tell us this are thieves themselves.) We march to an inter
net cafe whose location is explained to Yvonne, who actually understands Spanish.
(After seven years in Spanish-speaking countries I speak seven Spanish words, but
I know the essential hand motions.)
Spanish keyboards are arranged differently, but in our notebook we have written
how to get an @ sign and other essentials that are necessary to do e-mail in
Venezuela. At the "all computers full but only one dollar an hour" internet cafe, many
of the youngsters around us seemed to be chatting in English. We acknowledged
them, then concentrated on our e-mails pouring in.
Our children tell us in the e-mails we just opened, "You are in a dangerous coun
try. You are far too old for this stupidity. You will get diarrhoea, cysts in your liver,
robbed, raped or even killed. Get out now! All your sensible friends are rocking in
--.r7 -.-ll- 1-gs, reading newspapers, and doing that which is the maximum
* I - *, age should do. Especially note: all your friends delight in baby
sitting and are there to wipe noses and change diapers of grandchildren. What is
I ,, I I ,r T the Australian government, who are much wiser than you two are,
actually forbids Australians travel to where you are : .1.i 'ow? Why, they may even
arrest you there and then you can never come home I- all, you have been gone
for 15 years now. Come home. I speak for the whole family; we have discussed the
matter at length. Your loving daughter."



You have been gone

for 15 years now.

Come home



Wow! What an e-mail! And one on a similar vein is waiting for us every time we find
a cafe to view e-mails, at whatever port we sail into.
Our sailing travels are rewarding, peaceful, 1 ..1.. ... I i i 11 as exas
operating. Is that not what sailing is about? Si" I 'I ... II ... i i i. they are
at home you must stay there and patiently w i i i i.. i ... .
Sailing gives us sights and experiences to wonder at, be it deserted islands or mag
nificent snow capped mountains that can be seen from our sailboat. There are won
(Ii 'i,,,- .1... i. .. from a tree, or dilapidated concrete fishing boats with a
SI i .... .. ......... is they hand over lobster. Then there are leaping dolphin
~I i i ,,1 .- at sunset. Off the sailboat for a day, we travel on old
buses and hang onto trucks; we even travel on donkeys and most often on foot to
see the sights unavailable from the boat. Racing up a dirt track with 350 switch
backs to see spectacular mountain views and colourfully dressed indigenous peoples
working or playing in the fields was one unforgettable land experience.
All these are experiences we never believed we would actually have, and we pinch
ourselves every time we sail into a new experience to ensure it is re-ll -- .'
and we have not ascended to wherever it is old Australians go. And i; i
all, the people we meet are curious about us and many look upon us with the rever
ence people in these "dangerous" k... 1 i 1-1--
"Look what my mum wrote. Oh, ( ... I- I I i 1 comes from a teenager
reading her e-mails at a computer nearby. It startles us out of our concentration on
-- 1: -1-i--te but firm reply to our worrying babies of 35 and 40 years old.
-i' i .,,,- d aloud and other kids gather to see if this mum is as paranoid
ii ..- I i ,i i you are too much worry and your father says come home imme-
diately as your money must have run out and it is so dangerous over there, you do
not realize hov -l -. r- -. Here the reader stopped as everyone was laughing.
Come over ., I I is I joined the merriment. "Read what my children say."
One came and read aloud our latest e-mail. After the laughter died and the amaze
ment no, the respect expressed about the fact that we had been traveling for
15 years, others read out their similar e-mails.
Si ,, i. .I ihe many e-mails from loved ones, we all abandoned the cafe and
hc I I II I ii' for a drink. Seated in a little Venezuelan beer house with our
six-cent home-brewed beers, we continued laughing about the reaction of people left
behind to our collective adventure. I summed it up after about the third beer: "These
people at home feel safe at home, saying that the evil you know is better than the
one you do not."
As our grand, onedollar feast arrived, many questions came from the dozen kids,
aged from 17 to 27, gathered at our long table. One asked our opinion: "What can I
tell my parents? I am taking a job here for a year at ten US dollars per week. They
cannot understand why, and tell me if I really loved them I would come home and
get a 'real' job."
Others had similar problems with doting parents. After many such conversations,
all of which were followed by laughter and comments, one child turned to me: "You're
old tell us what to say to old parents like you that worry so much they actually
spoil our travel enjoyment."
Continued on next page


ST. THOMAS YACHT SALES
Compass Point Marina, 6300 Est. Frydenhoj, Suite 28,
St. Thomas, U.S.V.I. 00802

Tel: (340) 779-1660
Fax: (340) 779-2779
S .- yachts@lslands.vl


44' 1982 Ta Chiao CT
$89,900
Sail
37' 2001 Bavaria Sloop, 3 strms, Yanmar diesel
40' 1986 Hunter Legend roomy, aft cockpit
40' 1987 O'Day Sloop, Westerbeke, 2 strms
43' 1995 Hunter 430, stepped transom, 2 strms


$33,500

$ 79,500
$ 69,000
$ 60,000
$119,000


Power
14' 2006 Aquascan Jetboat, 160HP Yamaha $ 34,900
31' 1999 Sea Ray Sundancer, new engines, 2005 $ 79,900
32' 1996 Carver 325, twin crusaders great condition $ 99,000
38' 1999 Sea Ray Sundancer, mercruisers, 18 kts, $167,000

Call, fax or visit our website for a complete list of boats for sale
www.stthomasyachts.com


-. _11.-n ,--~u
Guadeloupe 700000

Amel 54 2007 Like New
Amel Super Maramu 53 1998
Alubat Ovni 435 2006
Sun Magic 44 1989

Lagoon 410 2004
Lagoon 410 1999
Graal 42 1990
Tobago 35 1996



tV d B, H


4 Cabins Good Condition
Martinique 165 000
MONOHULL
St Maarten 849 000
Florida 339 000 US $
Martinique 299 000
Martinique 98 000 E
CATAMARANS
Martinique 260 000
Martinique 165 000
Martinique 135 000
Martinique 127 000


MULTIHULS: 42'Beneteau423'07.2cab/2hd PV. 259K
82'DufourNautitech'95,10cab/10hd 995K -1 H .* ,..... ... -.-r I.5:.: ,.' : 229K
46"FPBahia'03.4cab/4hdGreatprkce 330K 41 Mcrgan 41CC 84 2al: 2hd 69K
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-Continued from previous page
"Cheeky bastard," I reply, "I am only 67 years
"Wow, my father is 41," one said. Another's .11, was 53 and a third's 50 or
thereabouts, as far as he could remember. "How come you are so old and travel?"
"Why shouldn't I travel?" was my reply. "Now, what to tell your parents? Tell them
about all the wonderful friends from all nations you travel with, to assure them you
are safe with this crowd. Tell them a friend has a special pump to remove all matter
from drinking water so you can never get cysts or diarrhoea. Tell them all sorts of
lies to make them feel better, because they really believe you are in danger.
Newspapers only tell of the violence in Venezuela, not about the wonderful town and
beaches where we now are -500 miles from Caracas. Always rebut their examples
of how endangered you are. Then, and this is important, invite them to come and
travel with you, but as you travel."
"No! No!" they cried in unison, "Our parents would spoil our travels." "Mine would
make me shower every day," one young boy ventured.
"Don't worry, people who write the sort of amazing e-mails that we have just read
will never travel as we do," I told them, "so you are safe when you invite them to
i .I They will always have something that, for the moment (and forever I might
i .1 prevent them from joining you. So be brave, and insist they come on over
to see how wonderful and safe it is. Most of them will never come.
"Even if they do, they may do a day tour .1 ^ .. 1 r .11 .... 1 11 .. .ss Venezuela
off their list, becoming an authority on Vene I .11 . .......... ... We all know
there are better, more peaceful waterfalls where you can be alone to wonder and not
crowded in with complaining tourists. We, too, all know of trails and islands where
there is : ,i,,,,. nd that is the beauty of it all.
"Never i ., i .11 insist your parents come. I guarantee they will not come to
travel as you do," I concluded, lifting my home-brew beer high and calling, "Salud."
Yvonne added, "But if on the off chance they do arrive -having agreed to travel
as you do, on your terms, with no complaints you will all really learn to respect
and not ridicule each other, as you and your parents do at this moment."
A long time ago, Yvonne and I went to Africa. Her parents, who were as old as we
are now, showed an interest. We wrote a list of conditions and they agreed. Yvonne's
mother, at 93 years, still talks about that trip. Twenty-three hours on a bus with a
box of chickens on her lap, having to get off the bus and pee alongside everybody
else, climbing Kilimanjaro -new experiences she would never had moving from one
five-star hotel to another. Now Yvonne's mother understands more than our children
do why we travel as we do. How is that for good advice?
There was a silence as all this sunk in.
"Fifteen years... amazing," one young traveler murmured, "I 1.- 1 '- '- f r two
months and I l. ...r 1,.. i ... i..e to travel. I was starting. I I I i I to go
home to do 're .1 -1..1 .. I. ...I with the little I have spi ..I .. i ..i i con
tinue for anot i .. -.... .. 1 -
"The only advantage of being old," I continued, enjoying myself, "is that you have
time. But this is your time and it is yours to spend how you want to spend it, not
how others feel you must."
"But they get so upset and are so worried; it makes me so sad. How would you feel
if your parents said that you obviously must really hate them to want to remain in
South America? I do not hate my parents." The youi:- -:1-1 was emotional and wiped
tears from her eyes. "But I do not want to go home -he added as she looked to
us for an answer.
"Write your parents," I suggested, "challenging them for saying you must hate
them -that's an absurd statement. Tell them you have not finished your travels
and if you came home you could not afford to return to complete your South
American journey. Then say you do miss them very much and if they would buy you
a 14-day return fare you would love to come to visit. (Do no, I ,i I .,I
if you really want to continue travelling.) An 1 _i them an .11 1 .. I, i ....1
that if your mother came here you would .1 1 spend a week or so at a dreadful
beach resort just to be with her. Otherwise it is travel on your terms. How does that
sound?" I concluded.
"When my head clears, I'll e-mail my mother," she said.
"So will I," a couple of others agreed.
The six cent beers were going down fast, ,I ,,. 1.... ... 11. ... 1.i "We would love
all your e-mail addresses and will give you o... .. i .. -. i .- out every once
in a while. And let us know when you change your e-mail address -you youngsters
-.;;- -ils more often than you change your underpants. We really want to hear
i -. ,*) years time to see how you are handling your kids. We'll be 87 by then,
but we'll still want to know.
"It's time for us oldies to find our dinghy and return to our beloved home and hit
the sack. We have a young guy calling in his canoe at six tomorrow morning to take
us bird watching. We will bid you all goodnight and we hope we have helped you.
Above all, love your parents for what they are. It is harder to change the older you
get. Look at us. We will still be travelling at 80, I bet, but will you all? Goodnight and
good luck."
Even though our bones creak too much, the young people we meet on our travels
keep us young in thought and are an inspiration. Travel really is the people you
meet, although the scenery isn't too bad either.


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continued on next page -


S Carriacou

CARRIACOU REAL ESTATE

Land and houses for sale
For full details see our website:
www.islandvillas.com
or contact Carolyn Alexander at
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e-mail: islander@caribsurf.com
Tel: (473) 443 8182 Fax: (473) 443 8290

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continued on next page -










II. Caiba Comas Makt lc


Trinidad






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SdI)S & Canvas


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CLASSIFIED


URGENT SALE VENUS 46,1984
KETCH fiberglass, gc, new
engine, very well equipped
excellent live aboard and
cruiser. Price reduced from
US$199000 to US$169030 ONO
for a fastsale. Lying St Lucia. F
more info and pictures please
e-mail venus46@live.com o
phone +59&66907429.







Invt ot r.n-iOu in1 I.: 0
edition, plenty of new
upgrades, ready to sail,
located Palm Island, SVG.


2 sets racing sails, US 61.000
St.Lucia duty paid. Other
boats for sale:
1981 Cape Dory 30
US 39.000, S.Lucia duty paid.
2002 Oceanis 36. 2 cabin
US 94.000,
1975 German Frers 39ft.
sets racing sails, US 61.0DC
St.Lucia duty paid,
203 Dehler 41CR, 3 cabin
US 255.000,
2001 Beneteau 50, 3 cabin
US 199.000,
2033 Catana 471, 4 cabin
460.000 Euros,
1994 Lagoon 47, 4 cabin
US 259.000,
Tel (758) 452-8531
c-- A-A -A.+.ivn me, 1,


palmdocvincysurf .
LA,--Ot 380 C "U -
LAI .L -..OOII tI : IIu j .
br, J i i 1:, _1: ,wI
Low time Yanmar. Solar +
Wind generator + large bat
tery bank. Must see in
Guadeloupe. Call and we'll
send you a private aircraft
come see the boat Email
11rIl ADO I EiC. I airtropical@yahoo.com
,-. 170.000 .Tel (767)4404403.
or refit Nov. '07,4 dbl cabins,
goodsails ying in Martinique


PariO'' . ia iOi. .*:.
Admiral 38 Catamaran. For
Sale. You can follow
her adventure now at
web mac com/famouspotatoes2

DONZI 32ZF, DEC. 2007
Donzi 32ZF, Dec. 2007, like
new, used only 6 months,
stored on boat lift, located
in St. Maarten. Open center
console with open bow,
custom made benches,
seats for 12, incl. snorkeling-,
floating- and fishing gear,2x
Verado 250 hp, max speed
55 mph, cruising speed
30-35 mph, 147 hours. For


ERICSON 38 Sailboat, good
hull, good rig and sails,
good engine. Needs interior
work. Lying Tortola BVI
US$15,000 OBO
Tel (284) 540-1325


One Sail Boat, Kayaking
Business for sale


(2)671 Detrdt Diesel Engines
Gen. Set, MANY extras.
$100,0D0 US or Best Offer
BarbcI- i., 258-1052/
(246) .







32' TAHITIANA STEEL HULL,
unk rigged schooner in
Colon, Panama. GPS, EPIRB,
liferaft, 40hp BMC diesel,
wind-vane self-steering
propane cooker and much
more... US$5,00 OBO.
chelsea@amurimina.com








26' WOODEN GAFF
CUTTER,2006 An award win
ning classic design by Mark
Smaalders.Traditional carvel
null mahogany on pine.
New monitor windvane, SS
6mm anchor chain, 3
anchors. All gear less than 2
years oldlCozy cream paint-
ed/varnished mahogany
interior.Unique little yacht
with a humble price tag!
Lying St.Maarten. US$70K.
For more info E-mail
undmartin@yahoo.com
el 00599 5815603.








n -s r..3r Bur I- ,r -
Barbados Bds $1500. E-mail
rincon@caribsurf.com Tel
(246) 231 0464.








AtjiA C ".'i -'86 i,9 u i r
Vdvo TA-4VDOs, New pals,just
ovehaed, fuel effident and
ready for work US$ 39,700
el: (767) 275-2851 Emai
nfo@dominicamarinecenter com


t Sell.Offers Accepted.
ines need work.
dry dock at Otfley Hall
ne 7844888414 Email
beth@vincysurf.com


SELDEN RIG for VINDO 35,
deck stepped, boom,
spreaders, lights, winches
(has been changed for
upgrade) ask for details
Tel(758) 452-8531
E-mail destsll@candw.lc
2003 Mercury 250hp E.F.I.
complete with stainless steel
propeller and controls.
Excellent condition / low
hours. EC. $25,030. negotia-
ble. Contact: (473) 444 2220
(473) 409 1430

MASTS TURBULENCE
GRENADA One new Selden
17m inmast furler/ 2
spreader sets/ steps
suitable for monohull.
Tel J J JJ 1 _


CHARTER COMPANY CLEAR-
ANCE SALE: Selden mast
with rigging for 40 footer,
winches, engine parts,
windlass, dieseT stove, sails,
and lots more ask for
complete list
E I : I I:

BUSINESS FOR SALE
You own a boat, you live in
the Caribbean, you like to
have income? Buy our busi-
ness and director license for
day charter in St. Maarten
and you are ready for the
next season. US 15,000
E-mail: WebAd@gmx.com
BRAND NEW, UNUSED 24'
AB VST RIB for sale, no
engine $21,500, very open
to offers. Located BVI.
adam@boatshedbvi.com
DAY CHARTER BUSINESS
on St. Maarten for sale. This





FRIENDSHIP BAY, BEQUIA
Lovely 1250 sq ft. cottage,
100 yards from beach. 2
master bedrooms, 1 guest


www.caribfrace.com
BEQUIA PROPERTIES A clas-
sic Belmont villa in 1 acre
2,0 00,OUS, The Village
Apartments Business
1,890,00DUS, Admiralty Bay
900.000US, Spring Villa
1,750,00US LowerBay
1.600D 00US, Friendship
320000OUS, Moonhole
750,000US, relax & enjoy
Bequia life.
Tel (784) 455 0969 E-mail
grenadinevillas@mac.com
www.grenadinevillas.com
BEQUIA, Lower Bay, Bells
Point, House and Land.
Serious buyers only. Sale by
owner. Call (784) 456 4963
after 6pm. E-mail
lulleym@vincysurf.com
BEQUIA HOUSE FOR RENT
2 bedroom/2 bath, fur-
nished, hot water, on road
to Mt. Pleasant, private, fruit
trees, beautiful view, long/
short term. Wanda Leslie Tel
(784) 455-7580 or Willis
Gooding (604) 466-9953
BEQUIA PROPERTY FOR
LEASE Waterfront house with
dock Admiralty Bay. 1/2
acre of land at evel. 6,0 0
square feet in Hamilton.





FED UP WIH SING MORTGAGES
- increased fuel costs -
recession & inflation? Chill
out, "retire" to the
Caribbean, live on a boat
and still earn a living! (not
chartering) Boat based sup-
ply Co. for sale suit
couple or family E-mail
caribmen_4060@yahoo.co.uk
PUERTO LA CRUZ, VENZ.
INSURANCE SURVEYS, elec-
trical problems and yacht
deliveries. Tel Cris Robinson
(58) 416-3824187 E-mail
crobinson@telcel.net.ve
BEQUIA HOMEMADE
BREADS & Cakes madefresh
every day! Wholewheat, mul-
tigrain banana bread, herbs
& flax, butter crescents. To
place order Tel (784) 457-
3527/433-3008 E-mail
be iasweefpie@yahoo.com
Orders are delivered FREE
WATERMAKERS Complete sys-
tems, membranes, spares and
service available at Curacao
andPuertoLaCruz,Venezuela.

In PLC Tel (58)416-3824187
AFRICAN SAFARI EXPERIENCE
for your next holiday.
www.hazeyview.com


uearoom, full Klrcnen, laun-
dry, level with road no
stairs! 12,558 sq ft of land,
fenced with mature OPPORTUNITY TO HELP DEVELOP
fruit trees. US$320,033O Term SMALL ARTISTS' COLONY with
rental available. E-mail shop poy cot-
jocel/ne.gautier@wanadoo.fr in ogress. S energetic
CARIAC N (early retired?) craftsman/
CARRIACOU, ONE ACRE LOTS woman or alist with wood/stone
and multi acre tracts. Great building skills a plus. Partnership in
views overlooking Southern gallery a workshop and sales
Grenadines and Tyrrel Bay


space etc. in trade for start-up
hp. Beautiful rainforest 1 mileto
beach. USVI, needs US Visa,
geencard o citenship E-mail
raintree.arts@gmail.cam
BVI SAILING CHARTER COMPANY
looking for computer literate
office/administrator with mar-
keting and graphic design
skills. Please email resume to
charters@bviyc.com
RIGGING TECHNICIAN with
experience needed for
Tu ence Sais Ricy Bay loca-
fion Tel (473) 439-4495 Email
Rdchard tLrduleJces ceide ccn
TORTOLA ARAGORNS
STUDIO looking for 2 employ-
ees.Welder/Workshop man-
ager and shop assistant
required at our busy Art
Studio in Trellis Bay, BVI.ldeal
candidates are a couple
with artistic inclination living
on their own boat and look-
ing for shore side employ-
ment in a US$ economy. Still
interested to hear from a
lone welder! Info contact
Aragorn Tel (284) 495-1849
E-mail dreadeye@surflvi.com
MARINA MANAGER We are
looking for an entrepreneur
to take over (Management
Contract) a profitable bar
and restaurant in our 3 year
old marina. We have a
great location and enjoy tax
advantages as well as a
captive customer base.
The operation is profitable
but not as profitable as it
should be, there are numer-
ous opportunities to gener-
ate more business and
reduce costs. The marina is
also growing which will pro-
vide a larger customer base.
Candidates should have
food service experience
and management skills.
E-mail Russ@procapi.com
Extra Income seekers!!!
Sailors, Beachbums &

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...Readers' Forum
-Continued from page 45
But last I checked, Salt Whistle Bay was within the
park boundaries and I did see all of their guests were
inninmm in in th "',,qtr ind enjoying the beauty that
'I I .... .. I I Maybe they don't agree with
the fee system or the laws and regulations which have
now finally been put in place to manage the park.
What I want to know is why does this company
refuse to pay, when all of the other Grenadines water
taxis, dive operators and day tour companies which
are locally owned and operated pay their fees and
respect the park rangers?
Despite the fact that the TCMP still has a long way
to go in terms of a perfectly managed and run marine
park, I can say from my experiences there that it is
finally getting off the ground in terms of management,
education, enforcement and stopping illegal activities,
increased fish abundances and decreases in litter. We
have all been f1l-in f----.- f-r proper marine man
agement and .i ... ..I ..... the TCMP and rang
ers are just doing their job! Please support them, fol
low the laws and report violators!
A Supporter of the Tobago Cays Marine Park

Dear Supporter of TCMP,
We can see why there might be some confusion. The
official TCMP website (www.tobagocays.com) says,
'The entry fee only applies for access to the protection
zone (i.e. the Tobago Cays themselves). Visitors to
Mayreau and local residents of that island are not
required to pay the entry fee." The island ofMayreau is
technically within the greater park boundaries, but not
in the protection zone.
For clarification, we spoke to the TCMP's Education
Coordinator, Lesroy Noel, who explained to us that
"access to the protection zone" means just that: access.
It is not limited to anchoring or overnighting, but also
includes cruising through on sightseeing tours.
The TCMP website lists the park's various fees, and
there is provision for a very reasonable reduced fee for
local excursions, presumably to encourage Vincentians
(a surprising number of whom have never been there) to
visit their only National Park.
Compass attempted to contact the owner/skipper of
the tour company in question, but he was out of the
country up until press time.
It has been a long and hard fight to get the Tobago
Cays Marine Park where it is today: an increasingly
healthy marine resource protected by competent and
concerned Vincentians. We urge everyone to support it
and respect those who are protecting it.
CC

Dear Compass Readers,
We want to hear from YOU!
Please include your name, boat name or address, and
a way we can contact you (preferably by e-mail) if
clarification is required
We do not publish individual consumer complaints or
individual regatta results complaints. (Kudos are okay!)
We do not publish anonymous letters; however, your
name may be withheld from print at your request.
Letters may be edited for length, clarity and fair
play.
Send your letters to:
sally caribbeancompass.com
or fax (784) 4573410
or
Compass Publishing Ltd
Readers' Forum
Box 175BQ
Bequia
St. Vincent & the Grenadines










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Full Text

PAGE 1

C A R I B B E A N SEPTEMBER 2008 NO. 156 C MPASS N O . 1 5 6 The Caribbeans Monthly Look at Sea & Shore ƒBE HAPPY IN JAMAICA See story on page 18 On-line

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SEPTEMBER 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 2

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SEPTEMBER 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 3

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SEPTEMBER 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 4 SEPTEMBER 2008 € NUMBER 156 DEPARTMENTS Business Briefs .......................8 Eco-News ..............................10 Regatta News........................14 Sailors Horoscope ................34 Island Poets ...........................34 Cartoons ................................34 Cruising Crossword ...............35 Word Search Puzzle ..............35 Cruising Kids Corner ............36 Dollys Deep Secrets ............36 Book Reviews ........................37 Cooking with Cruisers ..........42 Readers Forum .....................45 Meridian Passage .................46 Whats On My Mind ..............46 Caribbean Marketplace......51 Classified Ads .......................54 Advertisers Index .................54Caribbean Compass welcomes submissions of short articles, news items, photos and drawings. See Writers Guidelines at www.caribbeancompass.com. Send submissions to sally@caribbeancompass.com. We support free speech! But the content of advertisements, columns, articles and letters to the editor are the sole responsibility of the advertiser, writer or correspondent, and Compass Publishing Ltd. accepts no responsibility for any statements made therein. Letters and submissions may be edited for length and clarity. Compass Publishing Ltd. accepts no liability for delayed distribution or printing quality as these services are supplied by other companies. ©2008 Compass Publishing Ltd. All rights reserved. No reproduction, copy or transmission of this publication, except short excerpts for review purposes, may be made without written permission of Compass Publishing Ltd. Caribbean Compass is published monthly by Compass Publishing Ltd., P.O. Box 175 BQ, Bequia, St. Vincent and the Grenadines. Tel: (784) 457-3409, Fax: (784) 457-3410 compass@vincysurf.com www.caribbeancompass.comEditor...........................................Sally Erdle sally@caribbeancompass.com Assistant Editor...................Elaine Ollivierre jsprat@caribsurf.com Advertising & Distribution........Tom Hopman tom@caribbeancompass.com Art, Design & Production......Wilfred Dederer wide@caribbeancompass.com Accounting.................................Debra Davis debra@caribbeancompass.comCompass Agents by Island:Antigua: Ad Sales & Distribution Lucy Tulloch Tel (268) 720-6868 lucy@thelucy.com Barbados: Distribution Doyle Sails Tel/Fax: (246) 423-4600 Curaçao: Distribution Cees de Jong Tel: (5999) 767-9042, Fax: (5999) 767-9003, stbarba@attglobal.net Dominica: Distribution Hubert J. Winston Dominica Marine Center, 24 Victoria Street, Roseau, Tel: (767) 448-2705, info@dominicamarinecenter.com Grenada/Carriacou/Petite Martinique: Ad Sales & Distribution Alan Hooper Tel: (473) 409-9451 sark@spiceisle.com Guadeloupe: Ad Sales & Distribution Stéphane LegendreMob: + 590 (0) 6 90 49 45 90steflegendre@wanadoo.fr Martinique: Ad Sales & Distribution Isabelle Prado Tel: (0596) 596 68 69 71, Mob: + 596 (0) 696 93 26 38 isabelle.prado@wanadoo.fr St. Lucia: Distribution Lisa Kessell Tel: (758) 484-0555, kessellc@candw.lc St. Maarten/St. Barths: Distribution Eric Bendahan (599) 553 3850Tel/Fax: + 590 (0) 5 90 84 53 10 Mob: + 590 (0) 6 90 49 45 90St. Thomas/USVI: Distribution Bryan Lezama Tel: (340) 774 7931, blezama1@earthlink.net St. Vincent & the Grenadines: Ad Sales Debra Davis, Tel: (784) 457-3527, debra@caribbeancompass.com Tortola/BVI: Distribution Gladys Jones Tel: (284) 494-2830, Fax: (284) 494-1584 Trinidad: Ad Sales & Distribution Jack Dausend Tel: 868) 634-2622 Mob: (868) 620-0978 jackd@boatersenterprise.com Venezuela: Ad Sales & Distribution Patty Tomasik Tel: (58-281) 265-3844 Tel/Fax: (58-281) 265-2448, xanadumarine@cantv.net www.caribbeancompass.com ISSN 1605 1998 Cover photo: Cookie Kinkead / Errol Flynn Marina, Port Antonio, Jamaica CALENDAR SEPTEMBER1 Labor Day. Public holiday in USVI 5 11 Dia di Bonaire sailing races, Bonaire 6 Bonaire Day. Public holiday in Bonaire 6 7 Back to Schools Regatta, BVI. Royal British Virgin Islands Yacht Club (RBVIYC), tel (284) 494-3286, rbviyc@rbviyc.com, www.rbviyc.net 8 Virgin of the Valley Festival, Margarita, Venezuela 15 FULL MOON 17 National Heroes Day, Public holiday in St. Kitts & Nevis 19 Independence Day. Public holiday in St. Kitts & Nevis 20 International Coastal Clean-Up Day 20 Clean-Up Dive, Bonaire 24 Our Lady of las Mercedes. Public holiday in Dominican Republic 24 Republic Day. Public holiday in Trinidad & Tobago 28 Soualiga Challenge Kayak Race, St. Barths to St. Maarten. thebrowns@domaccess.comOCTOBER1 Eid Ul Fitr (Muslim festival). Public holiday in Trinidad & Tobago 2 Thanksgiving Day. Public holiday in St. Lucia 4 5 Pete Sheals Match Racing, BVI. RBVIYC 4 … 5 Defis Guadeloupe Kayak race. otanton@gmail.com 5 11 41st Bonaire International Sailing Regatta. www.bonaireregatta.org 10 War of 1868 Anniversary. Public holiday in Cuba 11 Willy T Virgins Cup Race, BVI. RBVIYC 13 Columbus Day. Public holiday in Puerto Rico and USVI 14 FULL MOON 18 YSATT Marine Trades Show, Chaguaramas, Trinidad. info@ysatt.org 18 St. Maarten Optimist Championship. www.smyc.com 18 20 Trafalgar Cup Race, BVI. RBVIYC 20 USVI Hurricane Thanksgiving Day (Public holiday in USVI if no hurricanes occurred) 21 St. Ursulas Day. Public holiday in BVI 21 Antillean Day. Public holiday in Netherlands Antilles 24 26 11th Annual Foxys Cat Fight multihull regatta, Jost Van Dyke. West End Yacht Club (WEYC), Tortola, BVI, tel (284) 495-1002, fax (284) 495-4184, mvh@surfbvi.com, www.weyc.net 25 Thanksgiving Day. Public holiday in Grenada; boat races 27 Independence Day. Public holiday in St. Vincent & the Grenadines. Local boat races in Bequia, jsprat@vincysurf.com 28 Divali (Hindu festival of lights). Public holiday in Trinidad & Tobago 30 Nov 2 St. Lucia Food & Rum Festival, Rodney Bay 31 Nov 2 World Creole Music Festival, Dominica All information was correct to the best of our knowledge at the time this issue of Compass went to press „ but plans change, so please contact event organizers directly for confirmation. If you would like a nautical or tourism event listed FREE in our calendar, please send the name and date(s) of the event and the name and contact information of the organizing body to sally@caribbeancompass.com. The Caribbeans Monthly Look at Sea & ShoreCarriacou Regatta 2008An all-around authentic event ..11St. Thomas MangroveGetting into it .......................21Cuba, Again!Why they cant stay away .....22Having Culture AboardYogurt for yachties................42Tobago BluesCruisers just want to visit.....46SALLY ERDLE BERNIE KATCHOR WILFRED DEDERER DICK STOUTE

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SEPTEMBER 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 5 Lower Caribbean Yachting Report A research team of two individuals, Koen Altena and Erwin Herbert, both fourthyear marketing students from Holland, has compiled a report in English analyzing the Lower Caribbean Yachting Industry. The report features Curaçao as a prime example of an island whose yacht-service industry has developed rapidly over recent years. It also includes Grenada, Trinidad and Venezuela „ all of which have benefited from being below the usual hurricane belt. Koen and Erwin say that by conducting research that has widespread applications, their hope is that all of the surrounding islands can benefit from the research. The team conducted interviews with 152 yacht owners all over the lower Caribbean to find out what they consider valuable aspects of a yachting destination, and to allow yacht owners to give their personal evaluations of the various yachting locations within the lower Caribbean. Interviews were also conducted with boatyard and marina managers, governmental organization representatives, and other persons who possessed relevant information about the yachting industry of the lower Caribbean. The 90-page report analyzes the characteristics of the average yacht owner who travels in the lower Caribbean, what his wants and needs are, and how much he spends (around US$2,200 per month according to the results of the interviews). It also includes a competitive analysis of the four destinations studied. This is the first report of its kind done especially on the yachting industry of the lower Caribbean, and we congratulate Koen and Irwin on their efforts. For more information contact caribbeanyachts@gmail.com. Arrests Made in Rio Dulce Attack Julia Bartlett reports: Swift action by Guatemalan police resulted in arrests days after Guatemala saw its first cruiser fatality due to assault for about eight years. On August 9th, Alaskans Dan and Nancy Dryden were aboard their 42-foot Southern Cross, Sundays Child , anchored about a hundred yards off Monkey Bay Marina in the Rio Dulce between the town of Livingston and Lago Izabal (15.5°N, 88.4°W). The boat was boarded by four men armed with machetes, who tried to rob them. Dan Dryden resisted, and in the resulting struggle he was killed. Nancy was wounded and admitted to hospital with a collapsed lung. After surgery, she is now reportedly out of danger. On August 11th, three yachts newly arrived in Guatemala, Dream Odyssey, Cdog and Mima , entered the Rio Dulce. They anchored near the hot springs, intending to continue the two miles into Texan Bay the next morning. During the night, Dream Odyssey was boarded by five men armed with machetes and one gun. Items of value were removed but the boatowner and his wife were not injured. The following morning, the skipper of the British yacht Phalcor reported on the cruisers VHF net that at about 2:00AM a group of men had boarded his yacht and tried to rip open a closed hatch. After failing to do so, despite strenuous efforts, the men used bolt cutters to cut the chain securing his portable generator on deck. They left with the generator and a fishing rod. The yachtsman was not injured, and the boarding party left some evidence behind. Two suspects in the death of Dan Dryden were arrested on August 14th. According to the local newspaper El Periodico , Carlos Ernesto Lemus Hernandez, 19, and his brother Elfido Concepcion Lemus Hernandez, 33, both of the village of Esmeralda, a few miles from where the attack occurred, were taken into custody after a search of their home resulted in the discovery of an ice pick and binoculars believed to have been taken from the Drydens sailboat. Nancy Dryden has told newspaper reporters that she could identify in a line-up the men who killed her husband. The US Embassy, relatives and local boaters have rushed to support Nancy, and the Vice-President of Guatemala, Rafael Espado, has taken a personal interest in this incident. Some months ago when security issues were raised, local businesses and boaters representatives met with the Guatemalan Navy and Tourist Police. As a result of discussions at that time, three anchorages were designated which the Navy volunteered to patrol. A handout was also designed, warning boaters of the possible dangers of anchoring out and pinpointing the designated safeŽ anchorages. The flyer was sent to Livingston to be distributed to new arrivals. Unfortunately, the patrols apparently stopped once the initial pressure was off. If you are in the Rio Dulce, be safe: go into a marina. They are inexpensive, pretty and fun. For updates from the Dryden family visit http://danieldrydenfamily.blogspot.com. Soufriere Weather Info Returns The current weather information for Soufriere, St. Lucia, can now be found at its original address: www.smma.org.lc/weather/weather.htm. Browse the rest of the website for information on yacht mooring areas in the Soufriere Marine Management Area and more. Cruisers Raise Funds for Carriacou Kids John and Melodye Pompa report: Despite the rain (and rain and more rain), the annual Carriacou Childrens Education Fund (CCEF) activities held from July 30th through August 2nd were another resounding success. With donations still coming, the amount raised this year has already exceeded EC$17,000! Through the generosity of all who took part, by contributing items and/or cash or by attending and participating in the activities, the CCEF will be able to continue the projects that have benefited hundreds of children on the island for the past eight years. „Continued on next page Info & Updates Dan Dryden (at right) was killed during an armed yacht robbery on the Rio Dulce. His wife, Nancy, is reportedly recovering from stab wounds. Guatemalan police have two suspects in custody. According to Roy McNett, editor of the Rio Dulce ChismeVindicator , two other men believed to have been involved in the incident were killed recently in a shoreside shooting The Soufriere Marine management Areas website is a good source of information about this part of St. Lucia „ including, once again, a comprehensive weather reportDEREK BERRY COURTESY DRYDEN FAMILY

PAGE 6

SEPTEMBER 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 6 New marine center presents the latest Dutch innovation in boat handling equipment. Hauling capacity 45 tons and Catamarans up to 33ft beam. Safe dry storage with 24 hours security Long-term storage. AWLGRIP® indoor spray painting and many other services. We are located in the safe harbor of Willemstad. Curaçao Marine Email: curacaomarine@interneeds.net Phone: +(599 9) 465 8936 Fax: 465 8941 www.curacaomarine.com „ Continued from previous page CCEF had its beginnings in 1997 when a group of cruisers in Tyrrel Bay gathered together for a potluck barbecue prior to the start of the annual Carriacou Regatta Festival. At that time, there were no more than 15 visiting yachts at anchor. Through word of mouth, the total experience of Carriacou Regatta has spread though the cruising community and the number of yachts continued to increase. There have been as many as 90 visiting yachts anchored in Tyrrel Bay. In 2000, a group of cruisers discussed a way to demonstrate appreciation to the people of Carriacou for their friendliness and hospitality. That year this group, the forerunner of CCEF, held its first benefit auction. At the time, a number of worthy causes were discussed as the potential recipient of the proceeds of the fundraising, and the group chose the children of Carriacou and their education. Since that time over EC$86,000 has been raised to assist children in their schooling, from pre-primary, through primary, secondary and post-secondary levels. Needy children are provided with school uniforms and supplies, hot school lunches (Meals from KeelsŽ), and full tuition and a book stipend at the Carriacou campus of T.A. Marryshow Community College. In addition, through a matching funds program, CCEF has helped two primary schools upgrade the wiring and purchase air conditioners for their computer labs, and has committed funds to do similar upgrades at the other three primary schools as their needs are identified. The activities in late July and early August are the culmination of the work of many volunteers throughout the year. Cruisers spread the word about Regatta, make items for the craft table or collect items for the auction. Many people who are not able to attend Regatta drop off contributions at the Yacht Club as they pass through Carriacou. Others e-mail financial pledges. Some even contribute the proceeds that they have received from the Caribbean Compass for articles published! A number of local businesses are also involved with CCEF. Donations of goods and services are made for the auction, and some of these same businessmen are among the highest bidders when the gavel comes down. In addition to the auction, other fundraising activities include a silent auction, the Welcome Barbecue, a domino tournament, a book swap, a craft table with handmade goods contributed by the many artisans aboard the visiting yachts, a $10 and UnderŽ table of those treasures of the bilge that we all have on board, and the Harbor BarberŽ. A unique donation CCEF receives is the money contributed by visiting yachts that use the WiFi in Tyrrel Bay. In some bays that yachts frequent, wireless connections can cost up to US$70 a month. In Tyrrel Bay, free WiFi is provided by some progressive businessmen. All they ask is that the users consider making a contribution to the CCEF. From the level of contributions that we have received, the visiting yachts have shown that they appreciate the service and want to help the children. Sincere thanks go out to everyone who participated this year and in the past. We look forward to seeing all of you in Carriacou next year to help celebrate when CCEF surpasses the $100,000 mark! Caribbean Cover Girl! The S&S34 Morning Tide , a well-known contender on the Caribbean racing circuit for the past three decades, adorns the cover of the August 2008 issue of the US-published SAIL magazine (which modestly bills itself as the worlds leading sailing magazineŽ). Launched in 1969, Morning Tide was restored in 2005 by her current owner, Peter Morris, who races her out of Trinidad. „Continued on next page Its for the kids! The Harbour Barber was just one of an impressive array of fundraising volunteers and events that helped net over EC$17,000 at this years regatta for the Carriacou Childrens Educational Fund

PAGE 7

SEPTEMBER 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 7 „ Continued from previous page Grenada Hosts British Youth Swing Band One reason Grenada is popular with cruisers is that theres always something going on, even in the summer. The Sherborne Swing Band from Sherborne School, Dorset, UK, was on tourŽ in Grenada during the first week of August. The band, whose members are aged between 13 and 18, gave concerts at True Blue Bay Resort, Le Phare Bleu Resort & Marina, La Source, and The Grenadian at Rex Resorts, with a line-up that comprised three trumpets, two trombones, eight saxophones, guitar, bass, percussion and keyboard. The young musicians organise an overseas trip each year, and a regular visitor to True Blue Bay Resort suggested that they visit Grenada in 2008 to raise funds for the Queen Elizabeth Childrens Home. With Russ Fielden from True Blue Bay Resort providing Grenada-based support and assistance, the young musicians stayed at The Grenadian at Rex Resorts and performed five free public concerts and played for the Westmorland School Graduation Party. The Ministry of Culture also arranged for the band to run a workshop at Grenada Boys Secondary School, which was attended by members of the Royal Grenada Police Force Band and was very well received by all attendees. Jamie Henderson, the bands leader, said the whole trip was a great hit with the band members. The concerts too were very successful with over EC$5,000 raised for the Queen Elizabeth Childrens Home. Charitable Writers Who says cruisers are cheap? The following Compass writers have donated the proceeds from recent articles to worthy local causes: Dave Richardson to Bequias Sunshine School for Children with Special Needs; Ciarla Decker to the Marine Education and Research (MER) Center; Christopher Price to a private fund for unwed mothers; Jan Brogan to St. Benedicts Infant Hospital in St. Vincent; Chuck Cherry to the Bequia Mission for a schoolchild in need; Jeremy Shaw to the Woburn School in Grenada; John and Melodye Pompa to the Carriacou Childrens Educational Fund; John Rowland to the Bequia Community High School Library; and Danny Donelan to the Carriacou Regatta Festival Committee. Your generosity is appreciated! Woburn School Says Thanks! Woburn RC Infant and Pre-Primary School graduation ceremony took place on June 26th, with 28 children graduating and moving on to other schools. The school would like to thank the Compass contributors who have donated their payments to the school. Much essential work had to be undertaken this year, including improving the surface of the yard, purchasing a new photocopier and renewing insurance. The school has some development projects planned for next year, including the purchase and installation of playground equipment. With just over 100 children aged between three and seven, the school has an excellent academic record and most of the staff has been with the school for many years. The school has always welcomed landor water-based visitors and two cruiser kidsŽ are registered for the 2008-2009 academic year. Ooops! In the article This is the House That Jack BuiltŽ on page 40 of the August issue of Compass , the sentence The next edition of the Boaters Directory of Trinidad & Tobago is scheduled for June 2008 deliveryŽ should have read ƒscheduled for January 2009 deliveryŽ. We apologize to both Boaters Enterprise and their readers and advertisers for any confusion this error might have caused. See the latest news about the Boaters Directory of Trinidad & Tobago „ due out next January! „ on page 8. The map on page 15 of last months Compass , credited to The Abaconian newspaper, should have been credited to Derek Lee, who designed it for The Abaconian . Seaside swing in Grenada „ summertime entertainment for a good cause Over the years, many cruiser kids have attended the friendly Woburn Pre-Primary and other Caribbean schools

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SEPTEMBER 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 8 Grenada BUSINESS BRIEFS 14th Boaters Directory of T&T Underway Publisher Jack Dausend reports: The 14th edition of the Boaters Directory of Trinidad & Tobago is now being compiled and is targeted for release in January 2009. This newest edition of the ever-popular and comprehensive directory will include all the information that visiting cruisers and local boatowners alike have come to expect, such as information about services and facilities for the repair and maintenance of recreational yachts (both sailing and power vessels), as well as Customs & Immigration regulations, Carnival and lots of interesting details about Trinidad & Tobago. Since its first publication in 1995, the Boaters Directory of Trinidad & Tobago has become the indispensable bibleŽ for boaters in T&T, not only in its handy 5.5Ž by 8.5Ž paperback print version but also in the on-line version at www.BoatersEnterprise.com. Yacht-related businesses in T&T take note: The foreign recreational boaters arriving in the Trinidad & Tobago shores (after being at sea for a period of time) are looking for many services. The 250-page Boaters Directory lists all the services and suppliers by category, brand name and alphabetically „ complete with links to their business website and e-mail addresses „ using the yellow pagesŽ concept. If you havent reserved your advertising space for this 2009 edition as yet, contact JackD@BoatersEnterprise.com or phone (868) 620-0978. For more information see ad on page 37. Northern Lights Caribbean Dealer Conference Northern Lights Generators and their Caribbean Distributor, Parts & Power Ltd., hosted a Caribbean Dealer Conference on July 29th and 30th at Mariahs By The Sea on Tortola. The conference, entitled Challenge 2010, was attended by Northern Lights Dealers from throughout the Caribbean. Changes in the power-generation market and challenges anticipated over the next two years were discussed, as were new products, including the new M944T, which will produce 38kw at 1800 rpm in a remarkably compact package. Webbased sales and service tools were announced to speed up reaction time to customer inquiries, and a large part of the conference focused on how to increase customer satisfaction by providing better service overall. Nathan Price, Vice President Southeast Region, informed the dealers about the recent acquisition of Technicold, which manufactures high-quality marine air-conditioning and refrigeration equipment. Nathan told the gathering: The Technicold product nicely complements our Northern Lights Marine Generator products because the design and manufacturing process used mirrors our company motto of Reliability, Durability, and Long Life.Ž For more information on Northern Lights dealers in the Caribbean see ad on page 16. Summer Special Offer from Errol Flynn Marina Stay at Errol Flynn Marina at Port Antonio, Jamaica any time between now and November and theyll give you one days dockage free for every three days you stay with them, which amounts to a 25-percent discount on a four-day stay. (Water and electricity are not included.) The marina also says that they are the only shipyard and marina in the region where you can get a 40-foot yacht hauled out and re-launched for just US$100 „ or US$2.50 a foot. With sufficient space to dock a yacht in excess of 600 feet alongside and a turning basin to match, the only limiting factor for yachts is their restriction of vessels to a draft of ten meters (32 feet) or less. Free, secure high-speed WiFi access (or complimentary internet time in their internet café if you dont have your own laptop) is offered to all marina customers. Ahead on the calendar for Errol Flynn is the 45th International Marlin Tournament, which runs October 4th through 11th with an estimated 45 to 50 boats expected to take part in the competition „ and the onshore partying! And further still down the line, the Marina is hoping to be selected as one of the stopovers on the 2009 Trancaraibes Rally, after receiving glowing reports from cruisers from a number of yachts who visited there during this years event. Marina management and Jamaica Tourist Board members are expected to meet with rally organizers soon to finalize plans. Traditionally the rally departs from Guadeloupe in March and includes stopovers in St. Maarten, the Dominican Republic and Cuba. For more information on Errol Flynn Marina see ad on page 15. For more information on the Trancaraibes Rally see ad in the Market Place, pages 51 through 53. Horizon St. Martin Gourmet Sailing Package 2008! Horizon Yacht Charters (St. Martin) has launched a new Gourmet Sailing package in partnership with the five-star La Samanna Hotel: a seven-night charter that includes an exclusive private dining experience inside the hotels award-winning wine cellar with your very own chef for the night plus an unforgettable wine tasting experience. „Continued on next page From left to right: Frank Agren from Inboard Diesel Service in Martinique, Dave Cooper from Dockyard Electrics in Trinidad, Flemming Neihorster from Seagull Services in Antigua, and Nathan Price, Vice President Southeast Region

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SEPTEMBER 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 9 „ Continued from previous page Designed for yachtsmen who appreciate the finer things in life, the special package offers the opportunity to enjoy impeccable wines and the ultimate dining experience. The wine cellar, La Cave, is one of the finest in the Caribbean, holding over 14,000 wines covering every category from French Margaux to Californian Cabernets. La Cave is a romantic, candlelit sanctuary for those who wish to dine with a few close friends in a unique atmosphere. On the sailing side, skippers are available for those who like to have someone on board to help guide them through the islands or for non-sailors who prefer to let someone else take the helm. To find out more about the package contact horizonsxm@gmail.com. For details on all the Horizon Yacht Charters bases in the Caribbean visit www.horizonyachtcharters.com. Successful Atlantic Crossing for Mayrik P214 Regular Compass readers will recall we wrote back in February 2008 about Saint Martin-based Belgian naval architect Yves Kinards project to create a small, comfortable and seaworthy motorboat with low fuel consumption that would ultimately be able to cross the Atlantic solo. Well, the 21-foot Mayrik P214 MiniTrawler with Perkins M92B engine successfully made the crossing earlier this summer, taking just 31 days to cover the 4,000 miles from Saint Martin, Netherlands Antilles, via Bermuda and the Azores, to Saint Martin de Ré, close to La Rochelle on the Atlantic coast of France. The total fuel consumption was only 3,000 litres, representing a modest .75 litres per mile. Economy, seaworthiness and comfort have always been paramount considerations in the boats design and evolution, and the creators are delighted with the success of the crossing. The Mayrik P214 will be shown at the La Grand Pavois Boat Show in La Rochelle this month, and marketed in several versions including Trawler, Fishing (pleasure or professional), Aft Cabin and Bermudian, with prices starting from 60,000 euros. Although the Mayrik P214 is ideal for use in the Caribbean region between the islands, Mayrik Yacht Design believes its main market will be truly international and is currently seeking USand Europe-based partners to work with them towards full mass production. For more information visit www.mayrik.com and click on P214 or email info@mayrik.com. Grenadas Whisper Cove Open for the Season Whisper Cove Marina and Restaurant on the south coast of Grenada reopened on August 20th. Theres room for a very few yachts at the dock, or you can arrive by dinghy or by land. The cozy restaurant serves authentic French cuisine with a Grenadian twist, such as grilled fish of the day with passionfruit crème. For more information contact lukebdl@orange.fr. YSATT Showcases Chaguaramas Marine Services The range of marine services and supplies offered in Chaguaramas will be on display at the Yacht Services Association of Trinidad & Tobago (YSATT) 6th annual Marine Trades Show on Saturday October 18th. This dynamic, business-building event brings together marine accessory manufacturers, distributors, suppliers, contractors and buyers through a combination of exhibits, one-on-one meetings and product demonstrations. It is the only show of its type in the southern Caribbean and provides a great networking opportunity for the shows visitors and participants. Entrance to the event is free and there will be plenty of giveaways and promotional activities. Trinidad has become a very popular destination for yachtsmen cruising the Caribbean. Apart from its well-known geographic advantage below the critical hurricane belt, Trinidad has a lot to offer the yachting tourist „ extensive repair services and supplies that are available in a concentrated area, festivals and cultural attractions, eco-tourism activities, good medical services and a vast range of shopping facilities. For more information contact info@ysatt.org. Good things come in small packages. This cutie from St. Martin-based designer Yves Kinard is economical to run

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SEPTEMBER 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 10 CARIBBEAN ECO-NEWS Caribbean Environment Journal Launched Norman Faria reports: An impressive new regional journal designed to provide background information on the regions environment and sustainable development was recently launched in Barbados. The Editor in Chief of the quarterly publication is Guyanese Navin Chanderpaul, who is presently advisor in the Guyana Presidents Office on environmental matters. Mr. Chanderpaul has served within the Caribbean region in positions of Chairman of the CARICOM Task Force on the Environment (19921997), Chairman of the Caribbean Council for Science and Technology (1995-2000) and Chairman of the Steering Committee of the Caribbean Water Partnership (2004-2006). At a ceremony held at the Pomarine Hotel and attended by Barbadoss Minister of the Environment, Dr. Esther Suckoo-Byer, Chanderpaul pointed to the harsh realitiesŽ of globalization and trade liberalization together with global climate change posing new threats to the physical environment. These challenges affect not only small island states but also low-lying coastal nations such as Guyana. One of the aims of Caribbean Environment Journal is to educate the public on the Barbados Declaration and the Barbados Programme of Action (BPOA), which came out of the 1994 United Nations Special Conference on Sustainable Development of Small Island Developing States (SIDS). There is a need for a journal which is dedicated to promoting and generating discussion on the issues related to small island and low-lying coastal developing states and their path of sustainable development,Ž noted the Introduction in the Trinidad-published first issue. The journal has several scholarly articles on climate change and sustainable development, background information on BPOA and a reprint of the UN General Assembly Resolution on the late Guyanese President Dr. Cheddi Jagans proposal for a New Global Human Order. The launching ceremony was attended by regional technicians, engineers and other stakeholders in environmental work. For more information contact carenpub@yahoo.com. Red Lionfish Invade North Caribbean The red lionfish ( Pterois volitans ) , a native of the Indian and western Pacific Oceans, is now found in the northern Caribbean Sea. Researchers believe lionfish were introduced into the Atlantic Ocean in 1992, when Hurricane Andrew shattered a private aquarium and six of them spilled into Miamis Biscayne Bay. Biologists think the fish released floating sacs of eggs that rode the Gulf Stream north along the US coast, leading to colonization of deep reefs off North Carolina and Bermuda. Until recently, the lionfish invasion was mostly concentrated on the Bahamas, where it infested shallow waters, reefs and mangrove thickets where baby fish grow. Some spots in the Bahamian archipelago between New Providence and the Berry Islands are reporting a tenfold increase in lionfish over last year. Red lionfish inhabit lagoons and turbid inshore areas and harbors as well as offshore reefs in their native range. Now this venomous coral reef fish is being found in the northern Caribbean, feasting on native species of fish and crustaceans. A single animal was reported to have eaten 20 smaller fish in just half an hour. Red lionfish are now being found on the coasts of Cuba, Hispaniola and the Cayman Islands. Diving and fishfarming industries are concerned and some governments are urging fishermen to destroy the fish. This may very well become the most devastating marine invasion in history,Ž said Mark Hixon, an Oregon State University expert interviewed by Associated Press. There is probably no way to stop the invasion completely.Ž Adults can grow as large as 17 inches (43 cm), while juveniles may be as small as an inch or less. All of the spines on a lionfish are venomous, creating a danger primarily to divers and fishermen if stung. Although there have been no known fatalities caused by lionfish stings, they are reportedly extremely painful. Grenadines Hold Anti-Litter Workshop The Sustainable Grenadines (SusGren) Project conducted a two-day workshop on Caring for LitterŽ for NGOs, grassroots and governmental organisations in the Grenadines on July 15th and 16th at the Rotary Club center in Bequia, with the hope of educating persons in the Grenadines about litter, its effects and how to deal with it. The workshop, conducted by Joan Ryan of the Solid Waste Management Unit of St. Vincent & the Grenadines, attracted participants from the St. Vincent Grenadine islands of Bequia, Union Island, Canouan and Mayreau, and the Grenada Grenadines of Carriacou and Petite Martinique. The main focus of the workshop was to formulate strategies to alleviate the problem of littering, developing strategies to change perceptions of littering, outlining the impact of littering on the environment and economy of the Grenadines, and increasing awareness of the ills of littering and the benefits that can be derived by proper litter management and techniques such as recycling. To combat the problem of littering in the Grenadines, participants were encouraged by SusGren Project Manager, Martin Barriteau, to develop and submit mini-projects based on the action plans developed for the respective islands during the workshop and pledged to assist in securing funding for the implementation of these projects. „Continued on page 40 introducedintothe Editor Nevin Chanderpaul (at left) presents inaugural edition of Caribbean Environment Journal to Barbados Environment Minister Dr. Esther Byer-Suckoo Non-native red lionfish, probably released when a home aquarium was washed off a Florida porch by Hurricane Andrew, now range from Bermuda to the Cayman IslandsNORMN FARIA JOHN WHITCHURCH BENNETT

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Sabre M135QUIET CLEAN POWER M65 M92B M115T M135 M225Ti M265Ti M300TiThis naturally aspirated engine boasts premium engine features for reliability, minimal down time and service costs. Its operator and environment friendly with low noise and low emissions achieved with the new 'QUADRAM' combustion system and fully closed breather system. The M135 is an excellent repower choice. One of the most compact packages in its class, it has been designed to permit a wide range of operating angles and also offers easy access to all routine servicing points in either single or twin installations. High capacity heat exchange equipment with cupro-nickel tube stacks ensure low component operating temperatures for exceptionally reliable and durable performance. Leak free operation is ensured by an integral plate oil cooler and special crankshaft seals giving protection in the toughest conditions. Competitive engine and parts pricing, extended service intervals and exceptionally low fuel consumption make the M135 a cost effective choice with significant owner savings over alternative engines.Generating 135 hp at a modest 2600 rpm in a 6 liter engine ensures a long life in a bullet proof package.Call us on (284) 494 2830 for a dealer near you. A PERFECT SUMMER YACHT RACE! by Jerry StewartThere is always an element of uncertainty associated with an August regatta. Will it rain? Will there be squalls, or excitement of a tropicalŽ nature? Unsettled weather kept nervous cruisers farther north than they otherwise would have been as Carriacou Regatta Festival 2008 drew near. Its above all a working boat regatta, and the communities of Windward and Petite Martinique spend the preceding weeks in preparation. We had the opportunity to see five of the six decked sloops in the boatyard in Tyrrel Bay at the same time as they joined the yachts all getting ready for Carriacous main annual sailing event. The Carriacou Regatta Committee once again welcomed cruisers to participate in the yacht races, with James Benoit from the Grenada Yacht Club acting as race officer as usual. The yacht division was fortunate to retain support from sponsors Mount Gay Rum, Doyle Sails Barbados, Island Water World and Budget Marine, whose continued help in this low-key event gives them all credit. Additional prizes were supplied by Bogles Round House, Lazy Turtle Pizzeria, Fidel Productions, GG Design and Alexis Supermarkets „ local businesses contributing to make this regatta a success. The Doyle Sails Two-Handed Round Carriacou Race, the regattas main event for yachts, attracted 25 entries. The attraction of racing with only ones normal cruising crew (children do not count) maintains the popularity of the event. And Carriacou is a very small island. The fleet ranged from Frank Pierces schooner Samhadi , at 55 feet, to the Laser raced by Andy Pell from the yacht Tixi Lixi . Last years Laser champion, Michel Weber (age 14), raced BM2 , an Yngling, with crew Jason Tuson (also 14) into third place. Conditions were benign, and a lifting current, rare in these parts, made a mockery of the usually favored routes. Richard Szyjan, from Turbulence Sails in Grenada, came to Carriacou with Category 5 , which was once a Hobie 33, and sped around the island in an astonishing three hours and 28 minutes in winds that might have peaked at 12 knots. Cruising Class, for yachts with rating certificates, was split between the Beneteaus and the old IOR yachts. Tabasco , a Swan 40 raced by Henry Crallan, battled with Tim Sudells 44-foot Saga and my Hughes 38, Bloody Mary „ all three being S&S designs from the 1970s. Last years champion Windborne , Roy Hoppers First 38, and Tulachean II , Mike and Lucy Murchies Beneteau 38.5, achieved first and second place, with Tabascos crew losing a well-deserved third when they found a wind hole that refused to give them up. Bloody Mary slipped by to make third, with Saga fourth, Tabasco escaping from the wind hole to take fifth in front of Richard Watsons Oyster 48, Sobriyah . In Fun Class, where yachts are given a less precise rating based on owners declaration, Andy Smelts Spencer 44 Yellowbird managed to fight off a strong challenge from Samadhi to achieve first place, with Michel Weber bringing BM2 into third. A late squall gave the slower yachts and the Committee Boat a little excitement, but served only to power up Uwe Gerstmanns Joshua, Salai , ensuring his prompt return in time for the CCEF auction (see item on page 6). This year we had five multihulls. Don Marmos Ned Kelly returned to the island to take top spot from Eddies Boanerges . Paul and Sally ORegans Wharram cat placed third. In the South Coast Race on August 2nd, competitors again sailed in light winds and a lifting current. The beauty of sailing in perfectly clear water of amazing colours is a feature of the south coast of Carriacou. Category 5 again finished ahead to win Racing Class. In Cruising Class, Windborne maintained first place, Bloody Mary second and Tabasco a creditable third in conditions that dont suit a Swan. Fun Class saw Yellowbird ahead of Samadhi , with Mike Candlins Blue Sky sailing well to grab third place, ahead of regatta regular Dominic Webers Sanctus , a Jeanneau Sun Kiss 47. Thalia , Ivan Jefferiss 1880s-vintage gaff cutter, managed to be awarded a rating higher than the national debt of a small country, so sailed majestically into corrected last place with incredible style, topsl and all. There was no yacht race on the Sunday, giving participants the opportunity to visit the workboat regatta in Hillsborough. Mondays race offered, if anything, less wind. Lovely conditions for a gentle summers sail, but a little frustrating for Windborne in Cruising Class, as Bloody Mary edged into first place ahead of her, with Tabasco and Saga taking third and fourth respectively. Category 5 once again dominated the Racing Class, and in Fun Class Samadhi deposed Yellowbird into second place, with Sanctus third and local sailor Nolan Jules sailing Taliban into fourth. All in all, it was a perfect summer regatta. The fun of the yacht races coupled with the excitement of the decked sloops and open boats (see story on page 12) make this a hard event to improve on. CARRIACOU REGATTA FESTIVAL 2008 Racing, summer style. Bloody Mary in the Two-Handed (kids dont count!) Round Carriacou Race DICK STOUTE SEPTEMBER 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 11

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SEPTEMBER 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 12 WWW.YACHT-TRANSPORT.COMDYT USA Telephone: + 1 954-525-8707 dyt.usa@dockwise-yt.com DYT Newport R.I. Telephone: +1 401 439 6377 ann@dockwise-yt.com DYT Martinique Telephone: + 596 596 74 15 07 nadine@dockwise-yt.com BOOK NOW!MARTINIQUE PALMA DE MALLORCA LATE OCTOBER MARTINIQUE LA ROCHELLE EARLY DECEMBER Port Everglades Freeport Toulon Genoa Palma de Mallorca Newport Marmaris Martinique Cherbourg Aarhus Southampton La Rochelle St. Thomas SAFEST WAY TO SHIP PREMIER SERVICE FOR ANY YACHT RELIABLE FREQUENT SCHEDULES UNIQUE DESTINATIONS COMPETITIVE RATES RELIABLE FREQUENT SCHEDULES SAFEST WAY TO SHIP UNIQUE DESTINATIONS COMPETITIVE RATES PREMIER SERVICE FOR ANY YACHT SAFEST WAY TO SHIP UNIQUE DESTINATIONS UNIQUE DESTINATIONS COMPETITIVE RATES SAFEST WAY TO SHIP PREMIER SERVICE FOR ANY YACHT RELIABLE FREQUENT SCHEDULES UNIQUE DESTINATIONS COMPETITIVE RATES SAFEST WAY TO SHIP PREMIER SERVICE FOR ANY YACHT RELIABLE FREQUENT SCHEDULES UNIQUE DESTINATIONS COMPETITIVE RATES RELIABLE FREQUENT SCHEDULES SAFEST WAY TO SHIP UNIQUE DESTINATIONS COMPETITIVE RATES PREMIER SERVICE FOR ANY YACHT RELIABLE FREQUENT SCHEDULES SAFEST WAY TO SHIP UNIQUE DESTINATIONS COMPETITIVE RATES PREMIER SERVICE FOR ANY YACHT SAFEST WAY TO SHIP UNIQUE DESTINATIONS SAFEST WAY TO SHIP UNIQUE DESTINATIONS UNIQUE DESTINATIONS COMPETITIVE RATES UNIQUE DESTINATIONS COMPETITIVE RATES Yacht at Rest, Mind at EaseWORLD CLASS YACHT LOGISTICS CARRIACOU REGATTA FESTIVAL 2008 E V E R Y EVERY year in early August all of my friends in Grenada get together and make this huge trip to Barbados for Crop Over. Now, I like the jump-up in the streets, liming on the bikini cruise, listening to the Bajan DJs spinning their sounds as much as the other guy. But yet every year, despite the taunts of my friends, I end up jumping on a sailboat heading over to Carriacou. The only way to explain this is: Carriacou. Carriacou „ with its long history of boatbuilding, captains and crews who take the business of winning as seriously as any Americas Cup team, parties that go on until the late hours of the night, the street food, the steel bands, the donkey races, the greasy pole, the crowd cheering from the Hillsborough jetty as their village heroes take to the sea, the many heated discussions by the experts on the beach on why Windward will always have the winning boat. This island and its regatta are just simply alluring and I, for one, will be there every year. Carriacou offers something authentic, something different, something not to forget. This year was particularly special for me, as I was sailing aboard Savvy , a traditional-style sloop built in Petite Martinique for Peter De Savary. The Grenada Board of Tourism asked if Port Louis Marina and Camper & Nicholsons (where I am Sales & Marketing Coordinator) could help entertain press from Canada for the weekend. Of course! So we set sail from Port Louis heading over to Carriacou. Some background on Savvy . She was the first sloop built on Petite Martinique in over 13 years. This tradition had been lost over the last few decades and is only now seeing a major renaissance owing to a number of persons very passionate about boatbuilding history. Take for instance Alexis Andrews, Jeff Stevens and Alwin Enoe. Alexiss new books Vanishing WaysƒSomething Authentic by Danny Donelan ƒand Genesis offer the funniest introduction you will read anywhere and the most beautiful photos of an art form that continues to reinvent itself. Jeff runs day tours on Petit St. Vincent aboard his traditionally built boat Jambalaya and is building another sloop on Petite Martinique as we speak. (Jeff, send me an invitation to the christening! I love the parties on Petite Martinique.) Most important are the master boatbuilders such as Alwin Enoe, who continue to do what their forefathers have been doing for so many years. Sailing up along the west coast of Grenada this time of year is a treat in itself as you gaze over the lush undulating hillside sprinkled with the orange of the flamboyant and immortelle trees and the homes that hang precariously on stilts taller than the homes themselves. The island that captivates me most is Diamond Rock (also known as Kick em Jenny). Sailing toward this granite fortress of a rock on your left, with Isle de Ronde on your right, one cannot help but just stop talking (which, by the way, with me is not too often), lean back and just enjoy how varied and beautiful this little piece of Paradise actually is. „Continued on next page

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SEPTEMBER 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 13 „ Continued from previous page Our first stop was Sandy Island off Carriacou. I mean, after all of the hard work sailing up here, you have to at least stop for a swim and a cold drink before the nights activities. Just to set the stage for those of you who have never been to Sandy Island, it is, as its name suggests, a sandbar in the middle of the sea with a few trees all full of pelicans, some makeshift ponds constructed out of discarded conch shells, and the most beautiful white sand you will see anywhere. Enough relaxing for now: time to head off to dinner. Tonight the Board of Tourism and the two Dexters (Leggard and Lendore) from the Carriacou Regatta Committee are taking us over to Bogles Round House for an excellent meal. Bogles Round House is a story in itself. It was constructed by Kim and Sue Russell, who sailed to Grenada in 1990 from South America with their three young children. They stopped here to clear Customs and never left. From all accounts they were a rather interesting set and set about to build an unusual house with no straight edges. One of the quirkiest buildings, it resembles an egg from the outside and everything on the inside has a story as all of the materials have been recycled. So we all sat in this eclectic building and I must thank Roxanne (Grenadas Chef of the Year) for one of the best meals I have had in a long time and definitely one of the best chocolate desserts anywhere in the world. Ohhh, as your fork cuts the chocolate, the hot chocolate sauce just streams out onto your plate. Day Two. At some point during the night, I put my foot on the deck to stop the hammock from swinging the opposite direction from the boat. I awake, check out the stragglers sleeping on the beach after last nights party, and jump into the sea. Then I start cooking breakfast for the other sleepy-heads waking up. Bacon, eggs, avocados, sardines, mangoes and limejuice, and we are good to go. Today is the trial race for the island sloops, so off we go from Hillsborough heading to Windward. Unfortunately the weather and the captain, who has a wedding to attend in Petite Martinique, have other plans for us. So we dodge a few small squalls (mostly rain) and head over for the wedding. I have never in my life crashed a wedding before, but I have also never felt so welcomed by complete strangers. Quite unusual, the weddings on this island. Everyone gets together and contributes a little something to the fête. The party starts at 9:00AM, only to stop so everyone can go to the church for the formalities, then its back to the fête and the Heinekens are flowing like water. I have never seen so many cases of Heinekens in my life: its like everyone on the island has their personal stockpile. At about 9:00PM Id had enough but the other guests were still there partying like crazy on the beach. Day Three is the Round the Island Race, so we head over to Windward for the start. Going into the channel at Windward you encounter the most lovely sight. Im always amazed at this spot on Carriacou, with its beautiful traditional wooden homes on the beach bunched together with the backdrop the Grenadine islands and some of the clearest, bluest waters. This is the only regatta where there is no countdown to the start. The rule is: just try be as close to the committee boat as possible, once it arrives, because when they shoot that gun the race is off. So everyone is making tight tacks around the committee boat and then, BANG, the gun fires and six sloops are competing quite closely at the start. When we hit the downwind leg, the spinnakers are shot out. Passing by Hillsborough then Sandy Island we head for the upwind leg. This is where the seas get a bit harsher but Savvy is handling them well. The race is won by Cyril Comptons Margeto , with Glacier and Maristella taking second and third place respectively. After a long day we pass Windward and head over to Hillsborough for the nights activities. One of the comments I have to make about Carriacou Regatta and the organizing committee is that there is always something happening on the island, and they are always fun events. Tonight we are heading out to look for some street food and take in a bit of the Ms. Aquaval Queen Show. The Jupa is the spot on the island where all of the regatta events concentrate. With a number of bars all within a few feet of each other right on the beach, this is the spot where the DJs are blasting all of the new soca and calypso songs for Grenada Carnival, which is the following week. Its the spot where you will hear the news of the day and who beat whom. ( Passion was victorious in todays special Long Open Boats race.) Its also the spot where you get the best street food on the island. On either side of the street the steel-drum barbecues and makeshift bars are plying their trade while the soca reverberates through your soul. The Queen Show is equally exciting as Ms. Grenada, Ms. Carriacou, Ms. Petite Martinique, Ms. Union Island, Ms. St. Lucia and Ms. Bequia strut their stuff on stage for a very appreciative audience. Ms. Barbados, Marsha Whittaker, was named Queen. Sunday reaches, and its our last day. Breakfast at Snaggs Beach Bar, which is the quaintest spot on the beach in Hillsborough overlooking the racing. Today its the smaller workboats on the beach and the kids in the Optimists. The crowds have gathered and are talking animatedly about who the winner will be. All races start from the beach with the racers pushing or carrying their boats into the water then setting off on the course. Ballast includes crew and sandbags which you can see crew throwing over the side to lighten the load at many points during the day. Carriacou CigarettesŽ (very fast speedboats built in Carriacou) can be seen with sunshades up, zooming by, taking spectators out to shout encouragement to their racing friends. This is a festival for everyone „ racers and landlubbers alike. Donkey races, lime-and-spoon (running down the road without letting the lime fall out of the spoon), tug-o-war and greasy pole are some of the activities happening on land while the racers are out on the water. The greasy pole provides quite a lot of laughs as the contestants walk precariously along a pole covered in grease, the object to get to the end and pull off a flag. Fortunately for the contestants, the pole is extended over the water. Once again the races end with all enjoying themselves at the Jupa, discussing the days racing while the soca belts out of the oversized speakers and the street vendors light up their barbecues. This is the sort of festival where you realize, after four days of sailing, partying and meeting some really interesting people, that sometimes its more fulfilling to be in a place that feels real, a place that has an authentic culture and fun people who are out to enjoy themselves. All of this, and you have the beauty of Grenada and the Grenadines and their people as the backdrop to one cool place to be in August.Sloops and Boats Overall WinnersLarge Decked Sloops 1) Glacier , Kenrick Patrice, Carriacou 2) Margeto , Cyril Compton, Carriacou 3) Maristella , Michael Bethel, Carriacou Small Decked Sloops 1) Run Away , Javid McLawrence, Carriacou 2) Small Pin , Hope McLawrence, Carriacou Long Open Boats A 1) Hurricane , Benson Patrice, Carriacou 2) Passion , Matthew Joseph, Carriacou Long Open Boats B 1) Limbo , Allick Daniel, Bequia 2) Ace , D. Joseph, Carriacou Stern Boats 1) Outrage , Emmanuel Bethel, Petite Martinique 2) Ghost , Cosmos Bethel, Petite Martinique Small Open Boats A 1) Pimpy , Verol Compton, Carriacou 2) Ark Royal , Roy Delisle, Petite Martinique 3) Devine , Delacey Leslie, Bequia Small Open Boats B 1) Now 4 Now , Clayton DeRoche, Petite Martinique 2) Solo , Adrian Bethel, Petite Martinique 3) Parasite , Gerald Bethel, Petite Martinique Small Open Boats C 1) Bad Feelings , Samuel Forde, Mayreau 2) D-Shark , Hudson Williams, Canouan 3) Im Alive , Adolphus Forde, Mayreau Small Open Boats D 1) Swift , Martin Alexander, Grenada 2) Endeavor , Jahvid George, Grenada 3) Classic , C. Bernadine, Grenada At the open boat races in Hillsborough

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SEPTEMBER 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 14 REGATTA NEWS Team T&T Tops Dinghy Champs Teams from six different Caribbean islands, comprising some 40 young sailors, competed in the Caribbean Dinghy Championship regatta, held in Antigua on July 19th and 20th. The event was hosted by the Antigua Yacht Club. The Caribbean Dinghy Championship, sanctioned by the Caribbean Sailing Association, is held in a different country every year. Trinidad & Tobago took home the Caribbean Dinghy Championships trophy for 2008, for the first time since the start of the event in 1985. Support by the Sports Company of Trinidad & Tobago during the past two years enabled the Trinidad & Tobago Sailing Association to appoint specialist race coaches for the Optimist and Laser class. The best class results came from ten-year-old Myles Kaufmann who won seven out of the nine races in the Optimist 11-years-and-under class, taking home first prize. Trinidad & Tobagos 18-year-old Andrew Lewis won the Laser Standard class, holding Antiguas Sean Malone at bay by three points. Alistair Affoo, 17, also of T&T, had some stiff competition in the Laser Radial class, which was won by Nicolas Rendu from Martinique. A battle for second place between Alistair and Ray Potter from Antigua took place on Sunday when both sailors were tied at 19 points with one race remaining. In the deciding race of the Championships, Alistair managed to beat Ray in a one-on-one fight, finishing first in the final race of the event. Trinidad & Tobago will defend their title next year, when the Caribbean Dinghy Championships will be held in Martinique. For more information on youth sailing in Trinidad & Tobago visit www.ttsailing.org. Records Fall in Two July Fishing Events Derek Quetel reeled in a tournament record-setting 54.11-pound kingfish at the 20TH ANNIVERSARY BASTILLE DAY KINGFISH TOURNAMENT in St Thomas, USVI, held on July 13th. As Carol Bareuther reports, Quetel was fishing aboard the 27-foot Rambo, 4 KIT 2 . It was mid-morning when the whopper hit on a ballyhoo-rigged line. It just blasted out of nowhere,Ž he says. I was captaining at the time. I asked my friend to grab the wheel, and then I turned, grabbed my rod and hooked up. I had him in the boat in about 15 to 20 minutes.Ž After that, Quetel says, We didnt see any more. That was the last fish of the day for us.Ž Quetel pocketed US$2,000 in cash for his Largest Kingfish, sponsored by N.E.M. (West Indies) Insurance Limited, managed in the USVI by Red Hook Agencies, Inc, and also a weekend for two at Divi Carina Bay Beach Resort & Casino, with airline tickets compliments of Seaborne Airlines. With 12 fish (187.14-pounds) caught total, five (124.89-pounds) of them kingfish, Quetel also won Best Boat and Best Captain, and was awarded $1,000 cash for each title, from Offshore Marine and Yanmar. Meanwhile, Stéphane Legendre reports from Guadeloupe that the GUADELOUPE LAND ROVER FISHING FESTIVAL 2008, OCEAN YACHTS EDITION, dates were changed from November to July „ and it seemed to have been the right decision! This years catches had nothing in common with last years. A 122-pound tuna was landed on the first day and a 489-pound blue marlin (validated by the International Fishing Association) on the second day of the four-day competition. The islands previous blue marlin record of 409 pound was finally broken after six years. It took Gustavia IIs Guadeloupean crew an hour and ten minutes to hoist the blue marlin on board after a great fight and for Franck Nouy, the owner of Gustavia II , only ten minutes to become the owner of a beautiful, four-wheel-drive Land Rover Defender G4. Sixteen boats joined this years tournament, which ran from July 15th through 19th. Boats came from Antigua, Saint Lucia, Martinique and Guadeloupe. The festival was hosted by Marina Bas du Fort. „Continued on next page Team T&T with the Caribbean Dinghy Championship Trophy. From left to right: Andrew Lewis, Alistair Affoo, Jordan Rousseau, Myles Kaufmann, Mark Peters, Joseph Moraine and coach Philip de Gannes

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SEPTEMBER 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 15 Contact John Louis € 876-715-6044 € 876-873-4412 e-mail: info@errolflynnmarina.com€ VHF Channel 16 www.errolflynnmarina.com Navigating the good life Out of the Water Storage Up to 95 FeetThe only 100-ton travel lift in this part of the Caribbean, servicing yachts up to 95' in length.PROTECT YOUR INVESTMENT ON THE WATER THIS HURRICANE SEASONFull Service Marina100 Ton Travel-lift24 Hour FuelPaint ShedsEngine and Part SpecialistsDuty Free Zone in MarinaProtected HarborDepth Up to 25 Feet at Face DockOpen Air Market 1 Minute by FootDowntown Nightlife24 Hour Security Gated MarinaRestaurant,Beach Bar & Grille Introducing the NEWErrol Flynn Marina & BoatyardPORT ANTONIO,JAMAICA „ Continued from previous page The Wednesday, Thursday and Friday were full fishing days, and the Saturday was dedicated to an all-day party and relaxation at Gosier Islet beach. Although the change from November to July brought a great catch, the BVI hosts an international tournament at the same time, so next years event will be held from May 5th through 9th, hoping for equally excellent fishing and increased participation. For more information on the Guadeloupe Fishing Festival 2009 contact Jean Marie Rosemont at (590 690) 554 662 or visit www.fishing-festival.com. Womens Keelboat Champs Set for November The Womens Caribbean One-Design Keelboat Championship 2008 is scheduled for November 1st and 2nd in St. Maarten. The regatta, organized by the Sint Maarten Yacht Club, will be sailed on a one-design fleet of identical Sun Fast 20 boats from Lagoon Sailboat Rentals. The regatta will either be sailed in a two-pool format, which will result in a final of a Gold Fleet and a Silver Fleet, or in a onefleet rotation of boats. Teams are expected from Barbados, Trinidad & Tobago, Antigua, the British Virgin Islands and possibly farther afield, as well as from St. Maarten. The regatta will be open to up to 18 teams. Each team may only race with not less than three and not more than four women per team on the boat. Teams should wear co-ordinated coloured shirts or outfits, which have the function of identifying the teams during sailing to the committee and spectators. For this reason, the shirts should be distinct colours. The regatta will not provide for these shirts or outfits. Registration, welcoming party and the skippers briefing will be on Friday October 31st at 6:00PM, at the Sint Maarten Yacht Club. Prizes will be awarded after the racing on Sunday November 2nd at the Sint Maarten Yacht Club. For more information contact director@bigboatseries.com. Nix to Enter Golden Rock Regatta The organizers of the Golden Rock Regatta, now in its fourth year, announced the entry of the 60-foot racing sloop Nix . The regatta starts from Great Bay, St. Maarten, on November 10th with a pursuit race to Gustavia, St. Barths. This will be followed on the second day with a race to Frigate Bay, St. Kitts. After an overnight there, the fleet continues to Statia: The Golden RockŽ. Here the fleet will stay two days and sail two windward/leeward races before the grand finale race from Statia back to Oyster Pond in St. Martin. The regatta is a feature on many Dutch sailing enthusiasts calendars and now growing in popularity with US-based sailors. Local sailors are also showing interest and are already looking at their schedules to take the time off to race. This regatta has featured on the popular European TV Sailing Channel and in many prominent sailing magazines and publications. Race organizer Jules Hermsen reported that he has received 15 entries already, with a number of teams forming in the USA and interest from Germany and Belgium. For more information contact local organizer Bea Hootsmans at bea@goldenrockregatta.com . Spice Girls Prepare for Caribbean July 25th saw the Class 40 Concise hold the first trial for its all-female crew for the forthcoming Spice Race from England to the Caribbean. The hopeful Spice GirlsŽ, Carrie Biggs, Jamie Harris and Eleanor Littlejohn, took Concise up the Solent before performing a series of spinnaker jibes back towards their home base in the Hamble. The Spice Race starts on November 15th from the Royal Squadron line in Cowes, before the 4,321-mile run to Port Louis Marina, St. Georges, Grenada. Competitors will cross the English Channel and the Bay of Biscay and then head south along the Atlantic coasts of France, Spain and Portugal. After passing the Strait of Gibraltar the yachts will head for the Canary Islands and leave La Palma to starboard, then search for the tradewinds. Crossing the Atlantic, theyll leave Barbados to port. The organisers are seeking to hold an event within an eventŽ with several National Ladies Teams racing against each other offshore for the first time. Currently there are teams from England and Holland showing interest, with a chance of additional competitors from the United States, France and Ireland. Meanwhile, interest in the main event for Class 40 and IRC yachts continues to build, with enquiries coming from countries including China, Norway, South Africa, Germany, France and the UK. „Continued on next page Front row from left to right: Tamika Amey, Alvin Turbe, winning angler Derek Quetel, Steve Turbe, Ernest Quetel, Jr. Back row: The winning total catchs 125 pounds of kingfish!NORTHSIDE SPORTFISHING CLUB

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SEPTEMBER 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 16 „ Continued from previous page As well as boats wanting to race, there have been enquiries from people who want to charter boats and individuals looking for crew positions, both paid and paying. For more information on the Spice Race visit www. spicerace.com or contact Tony Lawson at Lawson@ longdene.co.uk. Aruba Heineken Beach Cat Regatta The Aruba Heineken Catamaran Regatta 2008 will take place from the 13th to the 23rd of November. Approximately 50 catamaran teams are expected to compete. The Dutchmen Eduard van Zanen and Mischa Heemskerk claimed the title in 2007 after a tough competition. They will compete again this year to defend their title. The program will be one day longer this year, to make nine days in all, so that the mainly European contestants will have more time to acclimatize. A total of 12 races will be spread over five competition days. These races vary from short to (semi) longdistance races along the beautiful Aruban coast and through the challenging lagoon. The organization is expecting participants from the Netherlands, Belgium, France, Germany, Austria, Switzerland and the UK. This year local teams from Aruba will participate, and probably some from the United States as well. It is now possible to register on the new website www.arubaregatta.nl. For more information contact Edwin Lodder at info@arubaregatta.nl. Transatlantic Maxi Yacht Cup 2008 Originally conceived in 2007 as a biennial event, the Transatlantic Maxi Yacht Cup will take place in 2008 based on the success of the inaugural event held last fall, and early inquiries suggest a number of boats are already making plans to challenge for the title. Organized by the Yacht Club Costa Smeralda (YCCS), the starting gun for the 2008 Transatlantic Maxi Yacht Cup will sound on Monday, November 24, in Santa Cruz de Tenerife (the largest of the seven Canary Islands off the northwest coast of Africa), setting the Maxis racing across the North Atlantic Ocean. It should take them roughly two weeks to reach the finish line off the island of Sint Maarten in the Netherlands Antilles. Two Maxis which have submitted their 2008 entry forms are Sojana , the 115-foot Farr-designed Bermudian ketch owned by Peter Harrison (GBR), and Bossanova , the Simonis 67 belonging to YCCS member Pietro Motta (ITA). Sojana is familiar with victory in Caribbean waters having won the St. Barth Bucket (2007) as well as the St. Martin Heineken Regatta (2008, 2007). She will be looking to improve on her second-place real time finish behind Nariida, the Wally owned by Morten Bergesen (NOR), who took line honors in the 2007 inaugural event. The Transatlantic Maxi Yacht Cup is promoted by the International Maxi Association (IMA), with YCCS organizing the regatta in collaboration with the Real Club Náutico de Tenerife for the start and the Sint Maarten Yacht Club for the finish. It is open to monohull Maxi yachts with a minimum overall length of 18 metres (59 feet) that are in compliance with the IMAs five division regulations (Racing, Cruising, Wally, Spirit of Tradition and Mini Maxi). The Notice of Race can be found at www.yccs.it/ portal/regatta.php?eventid=142&target=noticeofrace. Kayak Race Series Coming The Caribbean Mini-Tour of 2008 consists of two kayak races. The Soualiga Challenge, a well-established 25-kilometre race from St. Barths to St. Maarten across the open water of the St Barths channel, will be held on September 28th, followed by the Defis Guadeloupe on October 4th and 5th, which will have a new course this year, starting at Desirade Island and finishing in St. François on the south coast of Guadeloupe. „Continued on next page Open-water kayak racing is an up-and-coming sport. The Caribbean Mini-Tour 2008 includes a St Barths-to-St Maarten leg, plus a new course from Desirade to Guadeloupe

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SEPTEMBER 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 17 ITALY | MALTA | TURKEY | WEST INDIES A warm welcome awaits you and your yacht at Port LouisPort Louis, GrenadaNowhere extends a warmer welcome than Port Louis, Grenada. Visitors can expect powder-white beaches, rainforests, spice plantations and a calendar packed with regattas and festivals. Grenada is also the gateway to the Grenadines, one of the worlds most beautiful and unspoilt cruising areas. Now theres another good reason to visit. There are 50 new fully serviced slips for yachts of all sizes up to 90m available right now for sale or rental. Sitting alongside the marina, the forthcoming Port Louis Maritime Village will include luxury hotels, villas, restaurants and bars, plus some of the “nest boutiques and shops in the region.Limited availabilitySlips are available for sale or rental. For a private consultation to discuss the advantages of slip ownership, please contact our International Sales Manager, Anna Tabone, on +356 2248 0000 or email anna.tabone@cnmarinas.com To fully appreciate this rare opportunity, we highly recommend a visit. To arrange an on-site meeting please contact our Sales and Marketing Co-ordinator, Danny Donelan on +1(473) 435 7432 or email danny.donelan@cnportlouismarina.com „ Continued from previous page The races have been planned to slot in immediately after the US Championships, to allow paddlers to compete in San Francisco, come down to the Caribbean, and then continue to the Mayors Cup in New York later in October. Interest for 2008 has been high, with committed paddlers from the Caribbean region, the USA, France, South America and Sweden showing interest. For more information contact Stuart Knaggs at thebrowns@domaccess.com or Olivier Tanton at otanton@gmail.com. Third Superyacht Cup Antigua The third Superyacht Cup Antigua will be held from December 9th through 12th, in Nelsons Dockyard, English Harbour, Antigua. The event is timed to follow on from the Antigua Yacht Charter Show, December 4th through 9th. This year, ten to 12 yachts are expected to take part, and already confirmed is the recently launched P2 , the 38-metre (125-foot) sloop designed by Philippe Briand and built by Perini Navi. Last years winner, Sojana , the 35-metre ketch owned by Peter Harrison, will be back to defend her title. For more information visit www.thesuperyachtcup.com. Calling All Tall Ships! West Indies Events and the St. Maarten-St. Martin Classic Yacht Regatta Foundation are inviting all Tall Ships to come to St. Maarten in January 2009. A special course for those vessels has been added in the fourth classic regatta, which will be held during the third week of January. The Tall Ships will not have to pay a fee to participate in the St. Maarten-St. Martin Classic Yacht Regatta. The fourth Invitational St. Maarten-St. Martin Classic Yacht Regatta 2009 kicks off on Thursday January 22nd with a skippers briefing and official opening ceremony. Sailing starts the next day, racing from Great Bay to Marigot where the yachts will be the guests of Fort Louis Marina. Saturday will be the special Tall Ships Day when all classics and the Tall Ships will start at Marigot and sail towards the finish line in Great Bay. Organizers received the authorization from the Sint Maarten Port Authorities to dock the Tall Ships at the Pointe Blanche cruise ship pier so that passengers can disembark and an onboard VIP reception can be held that Saturday evening after the race. The general public will have the opportunity to visit the ships on Sunday morning while they are in Great Bay. The regular schooners, vintage, spirit of tradition and classic yachts in the regatta will set sail again that Sunday morning for the last regatta day, towards Anguilla and return to the finish in Great Bay in the afternoon. A promotional version of the 2008 regatta documentary has been published at www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ad-iD92BtCw. For more information visit www.ClassicRegatta.com. International Rolex Regatta 2009 The 36th running of the International Rolex Regatta is sure to build on its past successes, which this year included the addition of IRC racing and joining with the BVI Spring Regatta to offer the inaugural Virgin Islands Race Week. With next years racing scheduled for Friday, March 27 through Sunday, March 29, the International Rolex Regatta is one of the most popular of several Caribbean sailing events that, when strung together, can keep a hardcore, fun-loving racer occupied in the islands for the better part of two months. While it is part of the US-IRC Gulf Stream Series, the event also hosts classes for CSA (or Caribbean RuleŽ) racing as well as one-designs, beach cats and large multihulls. Weve proudly hosted this regatta since 1974,Ž says William Newbold, Commodore of St. Thomas Yacht Club. Over three days, the finest yachtsmen and yachtswomen from around the Caribbean, United States, and Europe join in world-class racing in a spectacular environment, which includes the warm, clear waters surrounding our club. Its an adventurous way to get a jump on their summer sailing season.Ž For more information visit www.rolexcupregatta.com. Tall ships like Caledonia will be a special attraction at the St. Maarten-St. Marin Classic Yacht regatta in January

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SEPTEMBER 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 18 No hurricanes 270sq. miles of calm seas Full amenities Phone: (58-281) 267-7412 Fax: (58-281) 2677-810 VHF Channel 71 Web page: http://bahiaredonda.com.ve E-Mail: brmi@cantv.net marina internacional El Morro Tourist Complex Puerto La Cruz VenezuelaLat. 10° 12 ' 24"N Long. 64° 40 ' 5"W THE CRUISING SAILOR`S CHANDLERY SINCE 1990 AMERON ABC 3 TIN FREE SELF POLISHING ANTIFOULING PAINT CORNER: MIRANDA C O R N E R : M I R A N D A& GUARAGUAO, PUERTO LA CRUZ, VENEZUELA & G U A R A G U A O , P U E R T O L A C R U Z , V E N E Z U E L A TEL: 58 (281) 265-3844 E-MAIL : xanadumarine@cantv.net T E L : 5 8 ( 2 8 1 ) 2 6 5 3 8 4 4 E M A I L : x a n a d u m a r i n e @ c a n t v . n e t ME and the missus, Yvonne, aboard Chaser II , and our friends Chris and Tony on Waylander cruised the Greater Antilles this past winter. We made our way via the south coast of the Dominican Republic to Ileà-Vache, Haiti and then to Jamaica before arriving at this years westernmost destination, Cuba. We had sailed to the Greater Antilles direct from Venezuela on our 44-foot Hunter Legend Deck Saloon. During the three-day crossing from Isla Blanquilla to Casa de Campo Marina in the Dominican Republic we encountered some bad weather, and our thoughts at that time had already turned to our return trip to Venezuela. Would it be easiest to hop down the island chain, or sail east to Puerto Rico then across to Blanquilla, or maybe even go east to the Dominican Republic and then across to Curaçao or Bonaire? Any of these routes involved working against the wind and current. No way did we want to encounter the weather wed had coming north, so we again made every effort to get a correct forecast, erring on the side of caution. Yes, were sailors and some would say we shouldnt concern ourselves about a storm or two. Ordeal or adventure: its a state of mind. Maybe, but Yvonne and I are here to enjoy our sailing experiences not to punish ourselves and our home. We have all the adventure we need. On our way to Cuba we had stopped in the Errol Flynn Marina in Port Antonio on the eastern end of Jamaica. In the greenest part of Jamaica, it is beautiful. (Ironically, like Trinidad, Venezuela and Haiti, Jamaica had been on a list we were once given of places to avoid.) At that time we could only stay a couple of days, so our route south had to include a return visit. Many years ago, the film star and yachtsman Errol Flynn was captivated by the Port Antonio area and reportedly commented that it was more beautiful than any woman he had seen (and legend has it he made efforts to see a few). The actor once owned a hotel in Port Antonio and his widow still resides here on a 2000-acre ranch that she manages herself. As a tribute to the swashbuckling icon who starred in movies such as Captain BloodŽ, In the Wake of the BountyŽ and The Sea HawkŽ, the owners of the marina at Port Antonio changed its name during a refurbishment to Errol Flynn Marina. The entrance to the bay is absolutely stunning; the colours of the reef, the water, the vegetation and the mountains are breathtaking. As you turn the corner, the marina appears with Navy Island on one side and a small deserted beach on the other. It is totally protected from the wind and waves. Errol Flynn Marina is a 32-slip yacht complex that accommodates vessels up to 350 feet LOA with a maximum depth of 17 feet. It also boasts single and three-phase power and shore storage and is an official port of entry with 24-hour Customs and Immigration. Boat repairs and maintenance are available at the fullservice boatyard, which features a 100-ton boatlift, the only one of its kind in this part of the Caribbean. The marina also has free WiFi „ something thats often not mentioned. We were surprised that the marina is not continually full, but slips were available on both our visits. „Continued on next page Dont Worry Be Happy in Jamaica „ and then Back to Venezuela by Phil Chapman Above: Only 300 metres from the marina, Tony dinghies over a pretty reef in Port Antonio Below: The main channel entrance

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SEPTEMBER 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 19 „ Continued from previous page For those who prefer, the anchorage is superb, and for a small fee the amenities of the marina (swimming pool, laundry, etcetera) are available. George, the dockmaster, and Dale, the marina manager, personally welcome all new arrivals and are on hand whenever you need assistance. Within the marina area you can walk along to the small, underutilized cruise ship dock. The little beach by the dock is beautiful and there is a lovely bar and restaurant alongside. The landscaping is gorgeous. About a hundred yards across the water is Navy Island, Errol Flynns former Paradise. Here once was a beautiful hotel, pool, bar and restaurant with white sandy beaches overlooking the Caribbean. Now all the buildings are derelict, the gardens overgrown, and beaches difficult to access. Although there have been rumours of plans to make the whole area, not just Navy Island, more commercialized, like many other resort areas in Jamaica, many people would like to see it remain as it is. For the moment, this really is a jewel in the Caribbean. Outside the marina gates is a lovely, picture-postcard Caribbean town, with maybe a touch of Olde England. There are bright colours, mostly well-tended houses and shops, street vendors and markets, good bars and quaint eateries. Its safe to walk the streets, day or night, and the local people always have time for a chat. Time went very quickly here, and it is somewhere we could have stayed longer. We did a lot of walking around the town, the beaches and the fort. We traveled by car to some of the local sights of the Port Antonio area, seeing some attractive bays that may not quite be suitable for an overnight anchorage. On the beach we sampled some local barbecued jerk chicken that was amazing „ or should I say a-blazing? Boy, its hot stuff! We got the guy to put some of his homemade jerk sauce in a pot to take away. We have it on board in a glass jar and it doesnt seem to have eaten through the glass yet. Tony and Sharon, whose yacht Hoofbeats was also in the marina, suggested we all go on a river-rafting trip. Yvonne and I had been rafting in Venezuela, but that was in white water „ fast, brilliant, but over very quickly. Here the river trip is more relaxed. In fact, there are times when the river is too high and the water running too fast and the rafting has to be cancelled. What a great, relaxing day we all had! Our trip was a very leisurely drift down the river with two passengers per raft together with the driverŽ. Its pretty much a full day out, with maybe an hours drive by taxi there and the same home again. The river trip itself is about three hours, with a lunch stop on the riverbank. The lunch was superb: nothing fancy or touristy. A girl on the shore prepared and barbecued chicken and fish, and served it with rice and beans, for anyone passing. She had a couple of tables and benches and a cold-box for beers. The prices were good, too, even though I believe we passengers paid for our chauffeursŽ meals and drinks. „Continued on next page Above: Outside the marina gates is a picture-postcard Caribbean town Left: A well-sheltered, nicely landscaped marina with free WiFi, no less „ we were pleased to get a slip here both times we visited

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SEPTEMBER 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 20 DOCK, BAR & RESTAURANT Open 7/7 VHF: 16/68€ deep water stern-to berth € water/ice/laundry € tel+fax+internet € gas stationCUSTOMS CLEARANCETel: (+) 596 596 66 05 45gas station: (+) 596 596 66 17 30e-mail: leponton@wanadoo.fr1433N 6103WPOINTE DU BOUT, MARTINIQUE THE SPECIALIST FOR BOAT MAINTENANCE IN MARTINIQUE Centre de Carenage 97290 Le MarinTel: +596 (0) 596 74 74 80 Fax: +596 (0) 596 74 79 16 carene.shop@wanadoo.fr Zinc Anodes Plumbing Marine Paints Batteries Epoxy Antifouling THE Le Marin After lunch we plunged into the river for a cool-down and a swim „ no swimsuits necessary here. No, you dont go naked: just go in the clothes youre wearing. They dry in minutes and meanwhile help keep you cool back on the raft. Bring a hat or some shade: there is none on the raft and very little breeze. You might also need some bug spray if youre prone to attack. This eastern part of Jamaica really is precious: probably one of most attractive areas „ if not the most attractive „ weve been to in the Caribbean so far. We really didnt want to leave, but with the thought of our easterly trip ahead, leave we must. We were constantly watching the weather on the internet and also talking to weather guru Chris Parker on the radio. A weather window opened which looked good for the next few days. It predicted ten knots of wind and calmish seas „ when its on the nose we dont want any more. So, we said our good-byes to the marina staff and newly acquired friends in the marina and set off. Our decision was to steer slightly south of east. That way, if the weather forecast was wrong and the conditions not suitable after a day or so, we could turn north to the Dominican Republic and wait there until things improved. As it turned out, 36 hours out of Jamaica, the sea was still kind, there were only ten knots of wind and there was little current against us. Our GRIB files were showing that these conditions would stay for the next few days, so we hung a right and headed direct to Curaçao. After four days and nearly 600 miles we arrived in Curaçao, having had an unbelievably comfortable motorsail all the way, averaging just over 150 miles per day. Yes, we had to motor to help us point, but we enjoyed the trip. We stayed in Curaçao for a week or so to see some sights, do a bit of retail therapy and visit the chandlers. I managed to get the new blades for my wind genny after a bird attack, and gathered a few other bits and pieces that we might find hard to get elsewhere. The meat market was good, too „ they had some great ribs and sausage. But our fridge and freezer were still full of wine and lobster, so we had to frantically eat shellfish and drink wine for the next few days to accommodate some of these beautiful porkies. The cruising life is tough, aye! Just across the road from our anchorage in Spanish Waters was a small beach with beautifully clear water. There is also a sunken tugboat, which makes for interesting snorkeling and diving. The crews of Waylander and Hoofbeats , who accompanied us, are certified PADI open water divers. Yvonne and I werent yet, so we decided to take a try-out dive with the others. It would count towards our course if we decided to continue. Our weather window to move on would open in three or four days time, so we just had time to do the course. It was a hard three days, diving in the mornings and taking classes in the afternoon plus getting the boat ready for sailing off, but we did it. Downtown Diving was the dive school, right on the beach: our instructor was excellent and the price was good. We wanted to arrive back in Venezuela by the beginning of June. Yvonne had to fly back to Spain by the 10th to take part in the Moors and Christians Fiesta (its like a smaller version of Trinidad Carnival), to see our son and then go on to the UK to see her father and our daughter. I dont know why we bother planning anything. We should have learnt by now, because we always end up doing something else. Our planŽ had been to visit the islands of Bonaire, Las Aves, Los Roques and Tortuga on our way back to Puerto La Cruz. But then some people we met in the anchorage who are regular travelers back and forth suggested that it is far better when going east to coast-hop along the Venezuelan mainland, avoiding strong currents and headwinds. So we headed southeast from Curaçao to Ensa Cata. After spending the night there, we were up early the next morning to sail to Marina Carabelleda. Our next overnight stop was Carenero, then Islas Piritu only 20 miles west of Puerto La Cruz. Coast-hopping worked for us. We had some of the best sailing we had in a long time pretty much all the way from Curaçao along the Venezuelan coast to Puerto La Cruz. With calm seas and sunshine we made seven to eight knots over the ground under sail. Plus we stayed upright „ in a monohull. All the overnight stops were good anchorages, some in beautifully clear waters with some gorgeous coral and beautiful fish. The snorkelling was excellent in Ensa Cata „ well go there again if passing that way. We still plan to cruise the outer Venezuelan islands; maybe well visit them heading westwards and then return to Puerto La Cruz, coast hopping again. Now, back in Puerto La Cruz, we have traveled more than 3,500 miles since our departure from here last November. We had some great times in amazing places. Did I mention the fishing? We had some good dorado, lots of barracuda, wahoo and a great marlin! And we had good company on this trip, making it even more enjoyable. Thats what were here for. You can read more about Phil and Yvonnes travels on Chaser II at blog.mailasail.com/chaser2 . A superb lunch was prepared on the riverbank: nothing fancy or touristy

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SEPTEMBER 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 21 T he island of St. Thomas in the US Virgin Islands has a large mangrove lagoon at its southeast end. No motorized boats are allowed in the lagoon except during a hurricane, because it is a wildlife and marine sanctuary. We found this out while exploring in our dinghy one day and being turned back at the entrance to the lagoon. Most of the area is very shallow and we wanted to look it over to see if we could get our boat in there in case of a storm. So how could we check it out? Maybe by kayak. We have an inflatable kayak, but it looked like it might be difficult to find a place where we could go ashore to inflate and launch it. Then we learned of a venture called Virgin Islands Ecotours (www.viecotours.com). They run kayak, snorkeling and hiking tours in the mangroves from a small establishment near the entrance to the lagoon „ a perfect solution. We made a reservation for a tour, docked our dinghy at the Yacht Haven Grande dinghy dock, and caught a safari bus to the Mangrove Lagoon Eco Center. Our friendly tour guide, Frank Galdo, was extremely knowledgeable about the mangroves and life forms therein. As he explained, the lagoon contains the red mangrove (Rhizophora mangle), so called because the roots are red, especially when wet. The trees grow pods that are self-propagating „ when one drops off the tree, the top has tiny leaves ready to unfold and the bottom has a root ready to grab a toehold as soon as it touches bottom. The pod can float until this happens and, in this manner, the red mangrove has spread from Africa to many tropical waters of the Earth. As the mangrove puts down roots, sediment and debris are captured until eventually land is formed. Tiny fish hatchlings and other aquatic creatures find protection among the roots. We saw silversides and a tiny inch-and-half-long barracuda. Birds take refuge in the higher branches, safe from land predators. The filtering system of the roots also prevents the soil run-off and wastes from reaching the coral reef. We saw seagrass and various other plants, and some starfish. One plant that grows on the bottom forms round, green balls on the end of a short stalk. These are called (non-scientifically) sailors eye. A most interesting creature that inhabits the lagoon is the upside-down jellyfish ( Cassiopea xamachana). It has very short tentacles that attach to the bottom to anchor it. Then it grows algae that other creatures feed on. We beached the kayaks on a little spit of sand on one of the mangrove islands, Cas Cay, donned masks and fins and took a snorkel tour. The bottom was sandy rather than muddy as is so often the case in mangroves, so visibility was good. We saw lots of fish, especially around the remains of an old wreck. The most numerous were snappers and parrotfish, as well as angelfish and damselfish. Most were small, but we saw one angelfish as big as a platter. Frank pointed out a spiny lobster and also an octopus. The octopus was so well camouflaged that I couldnt see him even when Frank pointed to him. I spotted some movement on one rock as I swam past, like something retracting into the rock to avoid detection. Exactly the color of the rock, but with an eye giving himself away, he opened his jaw to reveal a double line of jagged teeth „ it was an eel. Overhead we saw a frigate bird soaring, watching for a seagull to catch a fish that he could steal. Frigate birds have no oil on their skin or feathers to protect them in the water; they will drown. So they dive at another bird with a catch, hoping he will drop it. Then the frigate bird will try to snatch it before it falls into the water; if it does make it to the water, he tries to quickly scoop it up without getting wet. Back at the beach, Frank passed around mini-Snickers bars and water. He walked us a short distance along a path in the mangroves and pointed out a tree the locals call The Poor Mans Lover because the leaves are shaped like hearts. The tree bears a beautiful yellow blossom with a deep red center which lasts only a short time, then is replaced by a small, black pod filled with seeds that falls to the ground to germinate and sprout another tree. At the shoreline was another plant called ladys slipper, one small leaf of which provides enough Vitamin C for about 90 percent of a persons required daily amount. Sailors once used it to prevent scurvy. Then we retraced our steps to the kayaks, pulled them back into the water, boarded and started back to base. Frank gave us leave to head back without any stops or lectures and encouraged bumper kayaks, splashing, and general good fun. It was an interesting and enjoyable excursion. We had a good time and learned a lot to boot. And, yes, we can get our boat into the mangroves in the event of a hurricane. KAYAKING IN THE MANGROVESby Jacquie Milman Main photo: A kayak tour is a wonder-filled way to explore the mangroves According to Nancy & Simon Scotts Cruising Guide to the Virgin Islands , yachts drawing up to six feet have access to the Lagoon, the best hurricane shelter on St. ThomasCRUISING GUIDE PUBLICATIONS MILMAN

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SEPTEMBER 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 22 Marina Pointe-à-Pitre 97110 Phone: +590 590 907 137 Fax: +590 590 908 651 E-mail: fredmarine@wanadoo.frSERVICES Mechanics and Electricity Boat Maintenance Engine diagnosis Breakdown service 24/7 Haulout and hull sand blasting Equipment for rent Technical shop GOODS Genuine parts Yanmar & Tohatsu Basic spare parts (filters, impellers, belts)Filtration FLEETGUARD Anodes,Shaft bearings Electric parts, batteries Primers and Antifouling International Various lubricants FOR RENT High pressure cleaners 150/250bars Electrical tools Diverse hand tools Vacuum cleaner for water ScaffoldingTOHATSU LEAVE YOUR BOAT IN SKILLED HANDSMARINE MECHANICS (ALL MAKES) HAUL OUT 24h BREAKDOWN SERVICE € SALES € REPAIRS € MAINTENANCE FRED MARINE Guadeloupe F.W.I. by Bernie Katchor OUR first cruise in Cuba was along the south coast in May and June 2007 (see Cuba: Fair Winds and Friendly FacesŽ, Compass , September 2007). While there, we Australians were issued with USA visas at the "enormous" USA embassy in Havana. Then we sailed our 1978-vintage Endeavour 43 ketch, Australia 31, up to Maine for the summer. After hurricane season, Cuba and her wonderful people enticed my wife Yvonne and me to return. We had an enjoyable sail back to Cubas north coast, where we stopped in one of the many well-sheltered anchorages about 60 miles from Havana. There, out of sight of the Guardia Frontera, we enjoyed ourselves for a week before entering Cuba officially. Cuba only allows visiting yachts two months before they have to exit, but we had friends from Australia arriving to join us in over two months time „ hence our hiding. We have since learned that a boat only has to exit for 24 hours to obtain another two months stay. „Continued on next page CUBA, THE SECOND TIME AROUND DESTINATIONS Above: A rural billboard heralds the 50th anniversary of the Cuban Revolution: unity, firmness, victory Below: Our floating home, anchored near the lighthouse at Cayo Jutias

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SEPTEMBER 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 23 „ Continued from previous page The first day at anchor, the crew of one of the local lobster boats threw six grand lobsters on our deck and then anchored nearby. Every lobster in Cuba belongs to the government, as do the lobster boats. These carry approximately ten marineros , many of whom dive for the lobster, which is exported or used in the islands vast tourist-resort business. Cubans are not supposed to board foreign vessels, but we encouraged some of the fishermen to come over in their dinghy. They spend a month on these dilapidated 30to 50-foot ferrocement boats. The reinforcing, which expands as it rusts, causes the concrete to pop off the hulls. From the thrift stores in the US and from friends, we had collected a forward cabin full of clothing, as well as 1946 Chevy parts and other goods sent by Miami Cubans for their families. We handed out little dresses and shorts for the fishermens children, gifts totally beyond their ability to buy on the equivalent of US$15 a month they earn. A second group of fishermen came over with a slab of spotted eagle ray and some turtle meat. We were aghast that such beautiful sea creatures were killed, but the Cubans pointed out they could not eat lobster every day for a month. We soon discovered that the ray has a heavy-textured, non-fishy flavour, while turtle tastes of wild chicken. Privately owned boats owned before the Revolution in 1959 are allowed to fish, providing the owner pays certain taxes. So a 17-footer with a single-cylinder Chinese diesel would often come pop-popping by and offer us fish „ and the captain almost became belligerent when Yvonne offered him a gift in return. Thus, although we did not fish during the week before we cleared in, our freezer steadily filled. We sailed the 60 miles to Marina Hemingway, which is about 15 miles to the west of Havana. Small foreign craft are not allowed into Havana harbour itself unless a strong northerly makes the entrance to Hemingway untenable. Calling the marina on VHF channel 72, we were directed to the checking in wharfŽ. Many yachties become frustrated with Cubas check-in processes, but we find it enjoyable to meet all the delightful people who step aboard after removing their boots (tell that to the USA coastguard). First came an elderly doctor who sat with us drinking tea after asking questions about our health and completing the paperwork in triplicate after we loaned (then gave) him a pen. The rest of the officials waited patiently on the wharf. The vet was next. He asked about rats and any vermin, then invited us to his house. The three Customs officers followed and, after they asked permission for it to do so, a sniffing dog then spent 20 minutes gallivanting about our boat. One of the officers, who made me follow him every minute as he searchedŽ our boat, even pulled out some drawers and looked inside. The port master followed. Then port officials, after giving us a receipt, held our flares, which were returned as we checked out of the Marina. The total cost of entry, including the second months Immigration extension, was US$125. We had all sorts of goods for Cubans living in Havana and, in one case, enjoyed the sight of a whole family admiring new parts for their immobilised 1946 Chevrolet. We stayed a week to accept everyones hospitality and see the wonders of the old city. It saddened me that our new Cuban friends were not allowed closer than 100 yards to our boat so we could not return their generous hospitality. However, they love their country and their families are very close. Although they all complained about their predicament of low salaries and rigid government controls (the same as you and I complain about our governments), I asked many people whether, if they could escape as a family tomorrow, they would leave. „Continued on next page Above: We met this horse-cart driver in La Esperanza Left: A habanera watches from her balcony as Cuba slowly changes

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SEPTEMBER 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 24 Marina & Yachtclub60 slips for boats up to 120 feet and 15 draft Customs & Immigration 230/110V (50/60Hz), Water, Webcam, Wi-Fi Showers, Lounge, Pool, Restaurants, Bar Fuel & Gasoline Minimarket, Car Rental, Laundry Hurricane Moorings Restaurants “ne dining on a unique, historical lighthouse ship breakfast, lunch and dinner served all day at the Pool-Bar Restaurant Le Phare Bleu MarinaVHF CH 16 phone 473 444 2400 contact@lepharebleu.com www.lepharebleu.com Petite Calivigny Bay, St. Georges, Grenada W.I., POS 12°0011N / 61°4329W „ Continued from previous page Only one family of the dozen I asked this question said yes. The others hope things will change. We were told of one recent change: Raul Castro, Fidels brother, now allows Cubans to stay at the resort hotels. At a hundred and twenty dollars a night, this means if I work for seven months I will earn enough to stay one night,Ž one Cuban said, laughing. Cuba has one currency for the Cubans (pesos), and another currency for tourists and all luxury items: the CUC or Cuban convertible. Twenty-four Cuban pesos equal one CUC. Sadly, luxury itemsŽ include toothpaste, soap and many items of clothing. A Cuban earning 300 Cuban pesos a month has to eat before converting any of his pesos to CUC to buy clothes or toiletries. Thus, these items are virtually unobtainable to the locals unless they go outside the system illegally to make money, as most do. To our delight, as we bought local pesos, an eightinch pizza cooked in a converted 55-gallon drum on a street corner cost the equivalent of 20 cents. An ice cream, also made on a street corner with a little gas engine driving the compressor, cost one cent. There are even Cuban-only taxis, in which a ride costs five local pesos. When one of our friends hailed a Cuban-only shared taxi, the driver heard I was foreign and put me out, telling me he could be jailed for carrying me. He informed me that I should take a tourist taxi, which costs 10 CUC (48 times the cost) for the same journey. My friend got out with me and told me never to talk again in a Cuban taxi. The next taxi took us the seven miles at five pesos a person. The prices at resorts, hotels and tourist-oriented restaurants are generally the same as in the USA. Most tourists, including hundreds from the USA, are sequestered in all-inclusive resorts, never meeting any Cubans except the staff. Again this was good for us, as when we stopped by a resorts bar for a beer, no barman would accept our money, saying it was included. In the USA, a dentist quoted me US$4,500 for a new bridge. In the excellent Cuban government dental clinic, the first dentist who saw me said repair was impossible. But then a delightful elderly professor (watched by five students) fixed my broken teeth with posts and cemented the bridge back in. It took two hours and cost US$25. When it came time to leave Havana and Hemingway Marina, we took Australia 31 back to the check-in wharf. We checked out for the most western port of entry and intermediate ports. Boats have to check in and out of every port, so although we knew we would not get as far as Maria La Gorda we put this as our destination and on our list named every bay in between so we could visit them if we so desired. Again, Customs searched our boat and the officers were most upset when I asked if they were looking for Cubans when a drawer was pulled out. A long explanation in rapid Spanish that I did not understand made me realize irreverent Australian humour was uncalled for. We headed for Cayo Paraiso and wound our way in to anchor when Guardia Frontera aboard a fast cigarette boat came along and told us it was a forbidden anchorage. They said we must move about ten miles. Apparently two dinghies had been stolen from visiting yachts anchored there and ended up in Florida. We explored the village of La Esperanza where we met Sandra, a delightful, buxom female. (Cubans often complain about the lack of food, but we did not see skinny ones.) She cooked us an evening meal on three occasions and we gave her clothing and eyeglasses in return. Cuba has unlimited sheltered anchorages. Walking the beaches and enjoying our favourite pastime, bird watching, were rewarding as was exploring far up mangrove creeks in the dinghy. Soon it was time to sail to Varadero to collect our first guests. Sailing overnight to Varadero we found that the coastline east of Havana was wall-to-wall towns. „Continued on next page Above: Who needs DJs? As in most of Cuba, wreal live musicians play everywhere in Camaguey Right: Yvonne posts a letter in Old Havana

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SEPTEMBER 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 25 Chain & Rope Anchors & Fenders Electric Wire Marine Hoses Bilge Pumps Lubricants & Oils Stainless Fasteners Stainless Fittings VHF Radios Flares & Life Jackets Snorkeling Equipment Fishing Gear Antifouling Paint Paint Brushes Epoxy Resins Sanding Paper & Discs Hand & Power Tools Houseware & CookwareFOR YOUR MARINE HARDWARE, AND MORE Johnson Hardware Ltd. Rodney Bay, St. Lucia Tel: (758) 452 0299 Fax: (758) 452 0311 e-mail: hardware@candw.lc „ Continued from previous page As we sailed only four miles offshore, the path was easy to follow. We decided to check in at Gaviota Marina as it is 12 miles northeast and to windward of the marina at Varadero. Formalities here were repeated: Customs, port authorities and Immigration. Our American guests all flew in (via Mexico, as Mr. Bush needs the Miami Cuban votes) and more formalities occurred as they were searched by Customs and added to the crew list by Immigration. It is easy to have US guests aboard in Cuba: passports are never stamped „ you are just issued a visa on a separate document. Passengers names are removed from the crew list and their luggage searched as they leave. As we had six such comings and goings, we made good friends of the delightful authorities. Paperwork is Cuba. It takes three receipts to buy diesel, but at far less than USA prices it is worth the effort. Each time we sailed with our guests eastward from Gaviota Marina in sheltered waters. Yvonne and I really enjoyed showing them how we have spent and enjoyed the last 15 years cruising. Highlights were actually having Cuban fishermen aboard to a rum party. We had stocked up with ten litres of local rum. The bar we bought from had a great barrel of it and every night after work Cubans of all shapes, sexes and ages cycled or walked up with a container and rum was measured into it in 100ml lots for about ten cents. As we bought sixty 100ml lots „ six litres for US$8 „ there was a long laughing line of locals waiting. Cubans have to wait days for buses, hours for bread or rice, and never seem to complain. Lobster and fish were showered upon us although they were easy to catch. One guest hauled in a fish over ten pounds every ten minutes as we sailed. Any large fish along Cubas north coast can have ciguatera, whereas the south coast does not have this problem, Any fish we caught weighing over four pounds were returned to the ocean. The Guardia Frontera officials were rowed out to us on commandeered fishing boats and checked our papers as we progressed eastward. The north coast, as compared to the south of Cuba, where we cruised last year, seemed to have more officials and we were not allowed to visit many towns on the mainland. To explore some towns, we used the excuse that we needed food, but at one town this excuse was rejected. Disappointed, we went the five miles back to Australia 31 . Four hours later, three young men arrived, paddling a vessel very common in Cuba. Two large inner tubes were cut and had the ends sewn to keep the air in. A wooden frame with two sets of rowlocks was tied to the long inflated tubes. We often saw these craft miles out at sea. These lads brought us an enormous variety of vegetables from their garden. Recently Cuban people have been allowed to grow vegetables to sell at the new markets, independent of the usual government-controlled system. Up until now, Cubans had little incentive to grow food at the pittance paid by the government, thus most of the fertile land was left lying unproductive. In the countryside, we saw and bought from many private vegetable farms. In the towns, one has to buy what is available. On one day the market will have potatoes and beans, the next a great variety of fruits and veggies. It depends who comes to sell. Food is more readily available since the legal allowing of private farms. Every shop is owned by the government „ full stop. In one shop, we saw a woman with a sewing machine, along with a bookkeeper to take the money for her work. Such are the inefficiencies of communism. Both get a salary of about US$15 a month. Medical care is free and of a good standard, however. Each month some food is subsidized, but not enough to last a person the whole month. For example, five eggs are allowed per person each month, but any extra are purchased at about five times the subsidized price. Because we had to base at Varadero to meet our arriving groups of friends, we did not get far along the north coast. Our highlight was a week traveling by car, intensely bird watching with two friends who are professional ornithologists and a Cuban ornithologist who is the author of a book on the birds of Cuba. We saw 101 of Cubas 300 birds, including many of the endemics. Cuba is a true delight with friendly people. It is the safest country we have ever been in. As we sailed north again to avoid the 2008 hurricane season, we both agreed to return for a third visit in November. We plan to sail farther east along the northern coast „ slowly, very slowly, enjoying the hundreds of islands. See more of the adventures of Bernie and Yvonne on Australia 31 at www.berniekatchor.com. Above: The Cuban fishermen we encountered were friendly and generous Below: At La Esperanza, privately owned fishing boats are kept closed inside this cage at night

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SEPTEMBER 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 26 My wife Yvonne and I aboard Chaser II and our friends Chris and Tony on Waylander toured Cuba for a few weeks recently. Arriving from Jamaica, we cleared in at the south coast port of Cienfuegos (see our story in last months Compass ). A lot has been written about Cuba during the past months, but we all have different experiences and interpret foreign cultures differently. So this is my summary of our visit, which I hope will be of interest to those planning to visit Cuba. Cienfuegos Cienfuegos is the town where we based ourselves. It is central to the areas we wanted to visit by car and a safe place to leave the boat. The marina staff was helpful, and there is a small shop for basic supplies, as well as a bar. Taxis can be called from the main road nearby. Within a short walk there are several bars and restaurants, ranging from the elegant to the roadside fast-food-type diner. The old Club Náutico (yacht club) and the amazingly ornate Palacio de Valle are within walking distance from the marina. Both of these remarkable buildings are open to the public to either walk round or dine. The prices for such decadence are quite average „ as is the food. Ask around and you find out the best paladares (private homes where meals can be bought). In town there is a fruit and vegetable market, which also sells fresh meat. It has a small bar inside that sells juice and gorgeous chorizo (sausage) rolls for a few cents. You pay in National Pesos here, so prices are good. Nearby there are bakeries and supermarkets. Note that some bakers arent allowed to sell to non-Cubans, i.e. those without a ration book. We found you can buy most supplies here if you look around. Our outdated guidebooks suggested that toilet rolls, soap, cooking oil and some other items would be impossible to find, so we stocked up, but all the shops were overflowing with the stuff. Che Guevara hats, T-shirts mugs, books, paintings, photos, you name it, are everywhere. The Countryside Cuba is a large country. The size of England, it has mountains, plains and some lovely villages. There are many rivers, caves and green fields growing tobacco, sugar and potatoes. Its all enhanced by the turn-of-the20th-century style of transport ranging from oxcarts to tipper lorries used as buses. It was great to be able to travel by car or on foot safely: the roads were often empty, there was no rush, no hassle and no traffic jams. The few people we saw on the roadside all waved. Havana A special mention has to be made of Havana. We stayed in Old Havana, the historical area, again in a casa particular (private homes where rooms can be rented). Our apartment was in what looked like an old tenement building with a side door to the dirty staircase. Kids were playing baseball in the street, using a piece of wood for a bat and a bottle top as a ball: what skill they had with it, too! Despite the scruffy surroundings, we could walk the busy streets at night safely. It was great to be able to walk down the street listening for which bar had the best live music, and then pop in to enjoy a daiquiri and some first-rate salsa, meringue or son music. We found a great Chinese restaurant in a grubby back street in Havana. A waiter standing outside beckoned us in and up a gloomy staircase. It looked decidedly dodgy, but we decided to take a look. Upstairs it was beautiful and the place was buzzing with local people. We had one of the best meals in Cuba there, not authentically Chinese (in fact, a bit more Cuban) but excellent quality, price and atmosphere. Old Havanas buildings, cars, markets, harbour and fort are all worth special visits. Hotels such as the Inglaterra, with a piano player in the corner, are great places to pop in for a cocktail. El Bodeguita del Medio, one of Ernest Hemingways favorite bars is worth a visit, if only for a beer. Tony loved the menu here! The people were lovely; we never had any problems whatsoever. There is little crime. Wherever we were, habaneros wanted to chat, unlike on many other Caribbean islands where people are more reserved. One or two would ask for a dollar after having greeted and welcomed us, but that happened in all the larger towns. All our hosts at the casas particulares were exceptionally friendly and willing to talk about their life and problems living within Cuba, and what their hopes are for the future. Most if not all we spoke to thought change was on the way, I think believing that with a change of US government and a new leader within Cuba, negotiations for lifting the blockade could take place, still leaving the country independent. „Continued on next page DESTINATIONS Cuba, as We Found It Part Two: City Visits We love Havanaƒ Club! Here we are with a new acquaintance at the Rum Museum. The people of Havana are lovely, too „ we never had any problems whatsoever by Phil Chapman

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SEPTEMBER 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 27 BAREBOAT CHARTERS FULLY CREWED CHARTERS ASA SAILING SCHOOL PO Box 39, Blue Lagoon, St Vincent, West Indies Tel. 1-784-456-9526 / 9334 / 9144 Fax. 1-784-456-9238 barebum@caribsurf.com www.barefootyachts .com Barefoot Yacht Charters & Marine Centre € Doyle Sail Loft & Canvas Shop € Raymarine Electronics € Refrigeration Work € Mechanical & Electrical Repairs € Fibreglass Repairs € Laundry € Vehicle Rentals € Showers € Air Travel € Ice & Water € Diesel & Propane € Moorings € Island Tours € Surftech Surf Shop € Hotel Reservations € Quiksilver Surf wear € Restaurant & Bar € Boutique € On-site Accommodation € Wi-Fi / Internet Café € Book Exchange Since 1984 „ Continued from previous page Poverty, Health and Education Cubans have little cash: 10 to 20 CUCs per month doesnt go far, even with the government subsidies of electricity, water, rent and basic foodstuffs. However, even if you have money there is little to buy, so lack of money isnt the controlling aspect of poverty. In many ways I found these people quite rich. In some parts, they lived in beautiful countryside in pretty coloured houses with well-tended gardens. Our host in one of the guesthouses had chickens and pigs in the garden; he grew his own pineapples, mangoes, grapefruits, coconuts and vegetables. He even grew, dried and roasted his own coffee beans „ absolutely beautiful. Most people were smartly dressed, although some would argue that they go without food to have nice clothes. Also, as in many Communist countries where everyone is equalŽ, some are more equalŽ than others. Many frequently ate in the same restaurants that we did, which was great, but people who can pay 10 CUCs for a single meal are obviously not earning the standard 15 CUCs a month. There were hospitals and clinics everywhere, and all free. They looked like my recollection of an English doctors surgery or worse, ie. scruffy, but they are available. The stock of drugs and medicine is limited because of the blockade. All the children go to school in their uniforms, very proud, smart and clean. Many young Cubans speak at least one other language, usually English. According to Raul Castro, even the prostitutes have degrees, though he didnt say what in. US Visas One surprise that is interesting to many European cruisers is the possibility of obtaining a United States visa in Havana. Europeans can fly into US territory on our visa waiverŽ type passports, but we cant go in by boat using the same passport without a visa. If we do, (I was told by the US Immigration), even in a medical or weather emergency, we would be fined a minimum of US$500 per person if we announced our arrival and a minimum of US$5,000 if we didnt. We heard through an internet source that we could obtain a US visa in Havana at the US embassy that doesnt officially exist, but hides inside a Swiss embassy that doesnt seem to exist either. We found the building behind about a hundred Cuban flags in the centre of Havana. There was a security guard every 20 metres around the perimeter. We asked one guard where we could obtain a US visa, he made a phone call to his office, and they gave us a fax number where we should send all our information. We did this that same morning, then telephoned to see if they received it. They had, and gave us an appointment for the following day at 9:00AM. The security staff were aware of our appointment and directed us to the entrance. We had the usual searches and shown through the waiting room for our interview. We were called to a booth to pay US$130 (non-refundable) then told to wait. We were then called to another booth where the young American girl behind the counter made polite conversation with us while typing on the computer. She asked where we were going next and why we wanted a visa, we told her we live on a boat and will be cruising the Caribbean during the next few years and would like to visit some US islands. That was our interview; she said thats fine, your ten-year visa will be ready for you to collect tomorrow, have a nice day. Which we did, a proper US visa, amusingly (we thought) stamped Issued in Havana. It does expire on April 1st, but I think thats just a coincidence! So another good reason to go to Havana. Trinidad This is a very charming and ancient but very touristy town. There are many casas particulares , so many in fact that they have now closed the list for new applicants for this work. Our hosts here told us that they cannot close their house now for a rest or for restoration because their licence to operate would be given to somebody else. Our house in Trinidad was particularly beautiful, though in desperate need of some TLC. It dated back, we were told, about 300 years and had been in the same family for the past 150 years. The elderly owner showed us some photos of her grandparents who were certainly well-to-do people of the day, being a lawyer and official photographer. This lovely old lady has seen many changes in her lifetime, having been reasonably well off at one time. The consequences of the US blockade moved them down into a struggling family. „Continued on next page Inside the Museum of the Revolution in Old Havana. This was the Presidential Palace from 1920 until 1959, and Tiffany & Company of New York was responsible for much of the Palaces décor. In contrast, exhibits in some other rooms now feature bloodstained and bullet-ridden uniforms from revolutionary battles

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SEPTEMBER 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 28 ACROSS 2) SLOW 4) MANS 5) DEAD 7) DOWN 8) LIFT 11) FLAT 12) HEADED 14) EYE 15) DOORS 18) SHEAVE 19) CHEST 21) WOOD KNEES 23) WATER 25) RISING 26) CALM 27) PAY 29) DEADEN 30) SET 32) WEIGHT DOWN 1) END 3) WOOD 4) MONTHS 6) EFFECTS 9) FREIGHT 10) MENS 13) ANGLE 16) RECKONING 17) DEADLY 20) HEAD 21) WORKS 22) SHARES 24) ROPES 28) MEN 31) TO CROSSWORD SOLUTION„ Continued from previous page This, they told us, changed enormously when the Russians moved in and they were again able to buy the things they needed to have a little comfort. However, she said, this didnt last and when the Soviet Union broke up they were back to an even more desperate way of life. The owners daughters and granddaughters now help in running the establishment. I suppose as so-called capitalists we grow up with a different viewpoint. We see an opportunity and we invest or work hard in order to make a buck. But even if they had the money to do so, Cuban people are not permitted to invest in any moneymaking scheme, which breeds lethargy and lack of interest in work. This though is only my naïve opinion and observations obtained during the past weeks visiting and talking to the Cuban people we met. Heading Back East We cleared out of Cienfuegos and made our way back east. One of our anchorages, Cayo Breton (the lobster capitalŽ, our guide book said) has a large fishermens storage facility, but it is now closed. We only met one fishing boat. We dinghied over to have a chat with the crew and ask if they had a lobster or two to trade. They did, but said we mustnt tell anyone because the lobsters all belong to Fidel, so we wont mention it. We had a long chat with these guys „ such a good crowd. They were in need of a few T-shirts and asked if we had any caps. We told them we had some soap and cooking oil, but they said no thanks, they had plenty of that. (So had we.) They loved our rum, though, judging by the partying going on aboard their boat all evening. One of them fell off their boat, twice! Our freezers and tummies full, we settled down for the night to be rested for an early departure. Cuba is a lovely country. We saw some beautiful sights and had some memorable times. But would we go back again? Personally, the answer would probably be no. I dont know why, but it just doesnt grab me like Venezuela, Trinidad or Jamaica for example. Above: The lush Cuban countryside around Piñar del Rio Left: At last „ its lobster time! Below: A typical scene. In Cuba, transportation includes the iconic old American cars „ and just about anything else on wheels

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SEPTEMBER 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 29 IT’S MUCH MORE THAN A MARINA: IT’S HOME!WE OFFER: € 24 hour security € 120 concrete slip berths € Electricity: 220V/ 50amp; 110V/300amps (single phase and three phase) € 16ft channel € Fuel dock and bunkering € Free satellite TV at each slip € Telephone hook-up € Shower facilities € Wireless internet, banks and laundry within the complex € Pick-up and drop-off from major supermarkets We monitor VHF channels 16 & 79A (alpha … American system) P.O. Box 4540, Airport Road, Sint Maarten, N.A., Caribbean Tel: 599-5442309 Fax: 599-5443378 Visit our website: www.sbmarina.biz E-mail: reservations@sbmarina.biz Over and over again our guests refer to our marina as their “Home”! Join us this summer and continue to enjoy the hospitality. by Arlene WalrondTo me, travelling in Venezuela is an adventure. Be it a por puesto ride to the market or a bus trip to a scenic site, there are tales to tell. The things I have observed over the years just waiting for the lancha to take me across the canal next to the Aqua Vi marinas hotel in Puerto La Cruz would amaze or maybe amuse you. The actual trip takes a minute or less, depending on the cargo. Apart from humans, that can include bicycles, sno-cone or hot-dog carts, and sometimes even animals. Rush hours or Sunday afternoons when people are returning from the beach provide the most interesting and entertaining moments. One thing I can say about the women in Venezuela is that they are not embarrassed about showing off their bodies, no matter what shape theyre in. Some of them walk from the beach (which is about a mile from the canal) in their bathing suits, leaving little to the imagination. Whether the exposed flesh is enhanced by silicone or marred by cellulitis, it attracts the eye. Long-distance travel beats all, though. Six years ago, my first bus ride from Puerto La Cruz eastward to the port town of Guiria to catch the ferry to Trinidad was an experience in itself. It was my first time on a longdistance bus and I had no idea what it would be like. The first clue that it would be different was that passengers were boarding with pillows and blankets. I didnt know then that we were looking at a sevento eight-hour trip in an ice box on wheels. Most of the Venezuelan buses that Ive travelled on were made in Brazil, so Im not sure who should be given credit for the great air-conditioning systems in them. Needless to say I was unprepared for the coldness. Not long after take-off my hands and feet became numb and lifeless „ but there is a God. The bus left the terminal at 12:30AM and about three hours later it broke down. What a relief! Its the only time I have ever been happy for something like that to happen. It didnt matter that we were stranded in the middle of nowhere, not a building in sight. All passengers were asked to disembark as the driver and his companion tried to ascertain what the problem was. After their inspection the driver made a call, after which the passengers were told to retrieve their luggage. Standing on the side of a narrow shoulderless highway in the dark can be scary, but at least I was no longer frozen. The bus driver announced that another bus would be along shortly. „Continued on next page Adventures in Venezuelan Transport There ferry from Venezuela uses this tour-boat facility in Chaguaramasƒ

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SEPTEMBER 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 30 Full Service Marina Facility VIRGIN GORDA YACHT HARBOUROur facility located in the heart of beautiful Virgin Gorda comprises a 111-slip marina and a boatyard with 12 acres of dry storage space offering insurance approved hurricane pits to secure your vessel during hurricane season. Onsite amenities and services include a bank/ATM, a supermarket, chandlery, restaurant, bakery, clothing store, dive shop, phone and fax facilities, free wireless internet access, fuel, water and ice, laundry facilities, and an office of the BVI Tourist Board all in a pristine and relaxing environment. BVI Customs and immigration located within convenient walking distance. Tel: 284 495-5500 284 495-5318 Fax: 284 495-5706 284 495-5685 Web: www.vgmarina.biz VHF Ch: 16 LEAVE YOUR BOAT IN OUR CARE THIS SUMMER „ Continued from previous page Half an hour passed, and nothing. By then some passengers began flagging down passing vehicles. An hour later only a few of us remained, including a guy in a military uniform whose presence dispelled any fears I might have felt being in a strange place at that ungodly hour. (Over the years, Ive discovered that my confidence in that uniform was greatly misplaced. I can recount incidents here to substantiate that statement but it might not be in my best interest to do so.) Anyway, another bus finally came along and we continued on our way, arriving at Guiria in mid-morning. The first thing I did was to freshen up in the bathroom at the bus station, which wasnt very clean with water barely trickling from the tap. The next time I made the trip I used a different bus company whose facilities are a lot better. The only problem there was that I had to walk past a raging doberman on a long leash to get to the bathroom! My first visit to Guiria was like going back in time. It reminded me of a typical rural town in Trinidad back in the Sixties when I was growing up. The population was small and the people were friendly and helpful. The pace was slow and laid back and I got the impression that crime wasnt an issue. I remember chatting with an old Syrian man who told me he had relatives in Trinidad. He was sitting half asleep outside his store, the door wide open when we approached. There wasnt much to steal back then anyway: the few stores that existed were sparsely stocked. I walked through the only appliance store which boasted a single item of each type, e.g. one stove, one fridge, etcetera. There was no washing machine. Six years later, this same store is so overflowing with goods theres hardly room to walk about, and there are other appliance stores as well. Guiria today is a bustling town. A lot of development has taken place over the last two years. Theres also been a massive influx of people, but progress isnt always a good thing. I liked the old Guiria better. Native Guirians that Ive come in contact with over the years now tell me, Be careful, hold on to your purse.Ž On two occasions subsequent to my first trip, the journey was interrupted a couple of hours distance from Guiria by protesting villagers who blocked the road to call attention to some plight or the other, forcing passengers to walk long distances with heavy bags to find alternative transport. So, to avoid a harrowing bus trip, I travelled by plane a few times. It cost a lot more, but the time factor in getting from one destination to the next was an incentive „ until I came to the realization that planes have a habit of falling out of the sky in Venezuela. Its not my intention to trivialize the matter, but since 2004 Ive been taking notice and hardly a month goes by without an accident involving a plane or helicopter resulting in the loss of lives. So far for this year (May 2008) nearly a hundred people have died in plane crashes here, so Im a bit wary. The last time I made the trip to Guiria I found another way to beat the stress and inconvenience of that overnight bus ride. It put a dent in my purse, but sometimes we have to make sacrifices for peace of mind. I left Puerto La Cruz early one day by por puesto route taxi (theres no bus until after noon) and rode to the town of Carúpano, which is roughly halfway to Guiria. I had lunch and a bathroom break there, then got in another por puesto . There were no incidents along the way and I arrived in Guiria by late afternoon. I checked into a hotel and had a very restful night. The next morning I got my name on the list at the office that handles the ferry bookings and paid my departure tax, after which I explored a bit taking in the most recent changes. I returned to my hotel room and watched TV until it was time to get ready to leave. One of the things that have changed for the worse in Guiria are the facilities, or rather lack thereof, for passengers awaiting the ferry. Six years ago there was a roofed area (albeit no seats) that provided shelter from the elements. Some years later, a new berthing area was assigned to the ferry and for a while chairs were provided for patrons at the Guardia Nacional compound close by. I dont know what happened to change that, but now the only shelter is a large tree, with gas and oil pipelines for seats. A small tent is provided for the check-in procedure, but that would be inadequate if rain should fall. Now compare that with the posh facilities at Pier 1 in Chaguaramas on the Trinidad end: clean bathrooms and proper seats in a beautiful setting. I know that these facilities were not created especially for the ferry passengers, but theyre there and are well appreciated. So much so that last November (2007) while I was taking some photos with this article in mind, I observed one passenger circling the swimming pool. Then he took a seat close by and sat staring at the water. Finally, the water proved irresistible, for next thing I know hes swimming in the pool. I couldnt resist taking a shot of him. The most unusual travelling experience Ive had so far is that one morning in Trinidad I got to Chaguaramas just as the ferry was about to pull out. Everything was finalized and I was told there was no way I could get on board. Since the ferry operates only on Wednesdays I was in a fix. Noticing my distress, a man gave me a contact number for someone who liaises with boats going to Venezuela. When I made the call and heard that my prospective ride was a fishing boat I had doubts, but he assured me that another woman would be on board as well as a male passenger who had missed the ferry, too. It turned out to be a pleasant trip with very kind and courteous people. ƒwhere one passenger just couldnt resist a dip in the pool and a shower!

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SEPTEMBER 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 31 WALLILABOU ANCHORAGEWALLILABOU BAY HOTEL VHF Ch 16 & 68(range limited by the hills) ... PORT OF ENTRY MOORING FACILITIES WATER, ICE, SHOWERS CARIBEE BATIK BOUTIQUE BAR AND RESTAURANT TOURS ARRANGED CREDIT CARDS ACCEPTED HAPPY HOUR 5-6 P.O. Box 851, St. Vincent & the Grenadines, West Indies. Tel: (784) 458-7270 Fax: (784) 457-9917 E-mail: wallanch@caribsurf.com Your Expert Guide to Carriacous Best Diving Find us right in the town of Hillsborough! Phone/Fax (473) 443-7882 and VHF CH 16 scubamax@spiceisle.com www.scubamax.com € Daily dives at 9.30 am and 1.30 pm or individually € Air-Fills at PADI 5 * Standard € Scuba and Snorkel Gear Rental € PADI Courses from Beginner to Instructor & 15 Specialties in English & Deutsch € Rendezvous Service for Sailors at Hillsborough, Sandy Island & Tyrrel-Bay € Special Group Prices for Sailors INSTRUCTOR TRAINING It is April 1949. In colonial British Guiana, on South Americas northeast coast, the night is thick with darkness as a group of Guyanese climb into a small rowboat on the east bank of the Demerara River. They row towards one of the several freighters anchored in midstream off the docks of the capital, Georgetown. It is the Canadian cargo vessel Sunavis , which had come to Guyana to load ore for Canadian aluminum-making plants. In the bottom of the rowboat, carefully wrapped in crocus bags and canvas, is a quantity of food including freshly baked bread, some ground provisions, salt fish, chicken, rice and perhaps a bottle or two of good Guyanese rum. It is all destined for the striking Canadian seamen on board the 10,000-tonne ship. Among those in the rowboat is a couple, each of whom would later become President of an independent Guyana. They are Cheddi Jagan and his American-born wife Janet (née Rosenberg). Every now and again, as Mrs. Jagan related to this writer in an interview in the 1980s, those on board the small boat would duck down as the shipowners security personnel swept searchlight beams across the anchorage. In a remarkable show of support and political consciousness, the Guyanese people and their leaders were offering solidarity to the seamen, then part of an international strike organized by the Canadian Seamens Union (CSU). The labour action affected the whole Canadian-flagged merchant marine fleet, wherever they were moored. The solidarity action undoubtedly stemmed from two main, but connected, understandings. One was the need to defend democratic peoples organizations, regardless of where they were in the world. Not only were the CSU and like-minded unions worldwide fighting to deepen the already beneficial achievements for their members. There was also an ideological struggle. It was the Cold War period at the end of World War II. Company unions and others were started to undermine red-ledŽ unions, as the established media described left-wing trade unions. It was not that these company unions and other bodies such as groupings within the American Federation of Labor (AFL) could provide better representation and rank-and-file democracy than the red-ledŽ unions. The CSU, for example, had the support of the majority of Canadian seamen. These were among the poorest sections of the Canadian working class (many men went to sea in their early teens during this period). The Canadian Encyclopedia described the CSU as effective, well supportedŽ. It had won significant benefits for the workers within an archaic, exploitative sector with its low wages, long hours and poor working conditions. Another important reason for the solidarity was that the CSU stood for democratic traits which the Jagans and others in then-colonial British Guiana were themselves striving to establish for the Guyanese people: multiracial democracy and unity. According to the book, Against the Tide: The Story of the Canadian Seamens Union by Jim Green (Progress Publishers, 1986), the CSU was formed in 1936. Waterfront unions had merged with it. Among its members were Japanese immigrant fishermen who were based at ports in the Canadian western seaboard province of British Columbia. It was a time when Asiatic people in Canada were still being discriminated against, though as Canadian democracy deepened, this would change. In 1949, at the time of the CSU strike, the apartheid system in South Africa had been institutionalized. But the CSU insisted that any ships being manned by its members would have integrated crews while visiting South Africa. Looking at photos of crews in Greens well-researched book, there are clearly CSU crewmembers with African and Hispanic features. These were probably from the Caribbean countries, including Cuba, where Canadian shipping lines such as Saguenay called. It must be remembered that during this period, especially from the 1920s through the 1950s, Canadian-flagged cargo vessels and even cruise liners (e.g. the Lady boatsŽ) were plentiful in Caribbean ports. At the time, the Canadian merchant marine fleet was the fourth largest in the world. In fairness, the contracts signed by the shipping firms for hauling cargoes and carrying passengers in the circum-Caribbean region and Guyana included the stipulation that a certain percentage of local crew be hired. This tradition was in existence up until the mid-1960s, when this writer signed on as a deckhand with other Caribbean seamen on the German-owned freighter Brunsland , one of the Geest Line ships carrying bananas from Eastern Caribbean islands to England. Many English-speaking islanders, particularly those from Bequia, worked on these banana boatsŽ. In his book The West on Trial , Cheddi Jagan explained that the April 1949 support action with the Canadian seamen had been organized as a matter of principleŽ. He gave more details: Our job was to take care of the men „ not an easy task; of the 70 men involved, nearly half were ashore and had to be fed and lodgedƒ The major problem was to feed the men on the ship. This was quite a problem as the shipping companys security guards had blockaded the harbour front.Ž My view is that the Guyanese support for the CSU went further than this in its anti-colonial impact and the promotion of the need for multi-racial unity and understanding. The Jagans were leaders of a group called the Political Action Committee (PAC), made up of and supported by Guyanese of all races. One year later, it evolved into the Peoples Progressive Party, one of the Commonwealth Caribbeans oldest, most respected and representative political parties. It would lead the Guyanese into independence from Britain in 1966. Though the impetus and desire, the hard-fought campaigns and struggles for independence by Caribbean peoples were rooted in their own everyday experiences and hardships, there was interaction with and support from sympathetic organizations and individuals in whiteŽ North America and Europe. In a 2001 article found on her website, Mrs. Jagan wrote: I remember the period wellƒ It was a heady period and the seamen were strong and courageous men, loyal to their union. We (in the PAC) learned a lot from them.Ž According to Greens book, the colonial authorities issued warrants for the arrest of the Sunavis crew. But the strikers also got the backing of the British Guiana and West Indies Federated Seamens Union as well as the British Guiana Trades Union Council (TUC). Green argues that a just-concluded strike by unionized sugar workers at Plantation Enmore also helped the seamen. When the police went out to the ship and met resistance, the colonial Governor, anxious to avoid more bloodshed, told the police to let the Canadians be. When the TUC withdrew its support in May, the seamen became more isolated. They were put in jail for 16 days after giving themselves up. Legal representation had been organized by the PAC. After attending a party thrown in their honour by Cheddi Jagan, they were flown back to Canada. Due partly to rising Cold War hysteria in the early 1950s, the CSU went under soon after the strike. The unions 12,000-member base was undermined by a quasicompany union named the Seafarers International Union, which was affiliated with the AFL. In a few years the Canadian merchant marine fleet was sold off, leading to much unemployment. The legacy of the CSUs seminal work continued, however, with members and leaders joining other labour bodies and peoples organisations. The seldom-heard-about solidarity action by the fledgling democracy and anticolonial PAC needs to be remembered. The historic show of support by Guyanese people of all races for Canadian seamen nearly 60 years ago is part of our wider collective memory, not only for Guyana but the entire Caribbean region with its rich maritime traditions, human endeavors and hopes. Norman Faria is Guyanas Honorary Consul in Barbados. CARIBBEAN MARITIME HISTORY Guyanese Solidarity with Canadian Seamenby Norman Faria The Sunavis . Guyanese people smuggled food to her striking crew by rowboat when security guards blockaded the waterfront(2) HTTP://IANCOOMBE.TRIPOD.COM/ID19.HTML

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SEPTEMBER 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 32All who go to sea should contemplate safety as a primary issue. If you overhear someone saying they got wreckedŽ, you first probably think they overdid it on rum, especially if they are sitting in a bar. Many years ago at Chiefs Bar in Crown Bay, St. Thomas, I heard a seasoned yachtie spin a story about surviving a shipwreck. The older man caught most of the patrons watery-eyed attention, and attracted a bellyful of free drinks. He told of a freighter plowing into his sloop in the South Atlantic while crossing from Cape Town to Rio. His chorus line was: Got to my grab bag just as Davy Jones grabbed my anklesŽ. He hailed the crowd and waddled off to what looked like a pristine Catalina. In the following days his yarn transcended to all rot „ free-drink bait „ but I never forgot the necessity of an always-handy grab bag. In the northern islands, after hurricanes such as Hugo, Marilyn, Georges and Lenny, I met many deboated storm refugees. In the Grenadines, Ive met a few sailors who had more than one boat sink beneath them. The story It Aint OverƒŽ by Ruth Chesman in the April and May 1999 issues of Compass told of a true woman-overboard calamity in the Windwards. Im glad I cant tell a personal sinking or overboard story. Fear, more than common sense, has kept me and the Sea Cow afloat. I always have my deck harness securely hooked on, and my grab bag ready. No sailor has the intention of becoming a first-hand authority on surviving a shipwreck, but you must always be prepared just in case, even when islandhopping or day-sailing in the Caribbean. Disasters dont make appointments so, as they said in the Seventies, have your shit togetherŽ. Every situation is different with winds, currents, and location: think about everything before deciding to leave the site of your shipwreck. And have your survival kit ready. Organize a grab bag containing survival essentials. First, make sure you can alert others. Check your EPIRB. Radios and cell phones (fully charged and/or with spare batteries) are useful if you believe someone will be listening, and flares if you think someones watching. The smallest and easiest signaling devices to carry are a signaling mirror and a whistle. Youll want to be able to tell rescuers exactly where you are, so include a handheld GPS and a compass. Pack some food, MREs (meals ready to eat) if possible, plus lightweight clothes, hats, spare sunglasses, a slicker, a small first-aid kit and some sunblock. Some lifeboat survivors swear that having hand-line fishing gear was the key to their survival. If you use a dinghy as a liferaft, a piece of suitable cloth can be used as a shade, rain catcher and makeshift sail. Close to your dink, liferaft or hatch, store extra jugs of water to take with you if you have to abandon ship. The minimum water necessary to stay healthy is one liter a day, but you can survive on less than five ounces a day. Better to have all of the above organized and not need it, than to be floating for days, castigating yourself for procrastination. Put passports and ships papers in a waterproof pouch that can be grabbed at the last minute. If you have time before abandoning ship, throw in the paper chart and ships log, too. Also if you have the time and space to include them, a wetsuit would be a great way to fight hypothermia, and fins, masks and snorkels might be useful. Take some time and think of everything you might need in a liferaft or dinghy that takes up little space. Those wind-up flashlights and radios might be handy. A couple of books might help pass the time. But be realistic when packing your grab bag: if it includes everything including the kitchen sink, you wont be able to lift it. It might even sink the liferaft. Then do a lifeboat drill. You might not want to actually deploy an inflatable liferaft, but pretend the boat is sinking fast and see how quickly you can collect your grab bag, water and other stuff and get into the dinghy. While youre in the dinghy, sit there for a while and imagine how this would be for several hours or days, and maybe rethink what you want (or dont want) to have with you. Take some more time and contemplate all the other possible bad-luck scenarios that could possibly end better with a bit of planning: dismasting, engine failure, dead battery, man overboard. I am definitely a worst-case scenario guy. When the Cows engine failed on the leeward side of the Eastern Caribbean island chain, way west of Dominica, my friend Florida Nick asked who would come to help us. Hondurans,Ž I replied. (Was he expecting Sea Tow?) Fortunately, before we met any new friends from Roatan, we got the engine going again. The Cows Perkins only stopped once again, just outside Trinidads Boca, and proved that having signaling equipment isnt everything. Many boats passed by us and never indicated that they saw my flares; the coast guard didnt respond to my radio call. Several days later at a bar, a tugboat captain said he had heard my distress call but didnt respond since he thought Id probably get her running. (I did.) That same tug captain told his own tale of a rescue at sea, west of Jamaica. He was going to Kingston from Honduras when he was radio-hailed by a small sailboat. The woman screamed that her husband had been knocked overboard by the swinging boom a few hours before. The tug went to the sailboat and put two crewmen aboard. Both boats searched the area and finally found the man. The husband was so grateful, and fearful of another similar event, that he gave the tug captain his sailboat and he and his wife flew home. So youve got to ask yourself: were you able to transmit a distress signal? Did anyone hear it? Did they reply? Can you signal visually for help if you see a boat or plane? Do you know your exact location? It is very hard to find a raft in the open sea without knowing reasonable coordinates or seeing a signal. Bad weather delays searches. In the open ocean, having the patience and ability (rain catcher, fishing gearƒ) to wait for rescue might be the only solution. If nobody knows your situation, you can see land nearby, and the prevailing current is in your favor, you might want to try to swim or paddle ashore (got a paddle?). If you can sail and steer your liferaft, go for it. But dont swim if rescuers know your whereabouts or you have any doubts about getting to shore: save your energy. Drowning after a shipwreck or sinking is the numberone worry. Everyones natural endurance is reduced by the stress of an actual sinking. After the wreck, real peril comes from exposure to the sun and salt, and hypothermia from cold water and the wind. Body heat loss is 25 times greater in water than in air. In the liferaft, force yourself to relax and use less energy. You will need less food and water. Water is an absolute necessity, so dont let the first rainfall pass unprepared to catch the cure for dehydration. Digestion requires water. If your water supply is low, try not to eat. Your body needs water more than food. Most castaway sailors would trade anything for a desalinating reverse osmosis hand pump (money extremely well spent) that can filter up to three liters an hour. „Continued on next page REAL SAILORS BUY STREETS GUIDESReal sailors use Streets Guides for inter-island and harbor piloting directions, plus interesting anecdotes of people, places and history. Streets Guides are the only ones that describe ALL the anchorages in the Eastern Caribbean.NEW! Streets videos, first made in 1985, are now back as DVDs. € Transatlantic with StreetŽ documents a sailing passage from Ireland to Antigua via the Cape Verdes. 2 hours € Antigua Week 85Ž is the story of the engineless yawl Iolaire racing round the buoys to celebrate her 80th birthday. 1 hour € Street on KnotsŽ demonstrates the essential knots and line-handling skills every sailor should know. 1 hour All are available via Armchair Sailor and Bluewater Books. HURRICANE TIPS! Visit www.street-iolaire.com for a wealth of information on tracking and securing for a storm.Streets Guides are available at bookshops and chandleries, or from www.iUniverse.com and www.seabooks.com STREETS GUIDES ARE MORE ECONOMICAL!Written by an author with 50 years of sailing experience in the Caribbean, the series four volumes cover the Eastern Caribbean from Puerto Rico down through the islands and the coast of Venezuela to the ABCs. Do a lifeboat drill. Then sit there for a while and imagine how this would be for several hours or days AFTER THE BOAT SINKSƒ by Ralph Trout

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SEPTEMBER 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 33 „ Continued from previous page ..after the boat sinks Drinking seawater is a good conversation topic while sipping a sundowner in the bar, but it is dangerous and can lead to serious health problems like kidney failure (as does drifting for months without water). Dr. Bombard, the eminent saltwater-consumption researcher, survived 63 days drifting without any supplies of food or water. His research found he could survive (not really hale and hearty) on tiny amounts of saltwater a day. Salt water removes your skins natural oils and sunburns increase dehydration. Avoid sunstroke by keeping your head covered and stay as motionless as possible. Always wear light clothing, and try to dry it before sunset. Tom Hanks Forest GumpŽ character supposedly coined the expression shit happensŽ, and his CastawayŽ character had to live through it. Lifejackets are mandatory equipment on all boats and live up to their name as the best personal flotation device. No matter the boat or the situation „ even going for an afternoons fishing or a quick sightsee „ always look for the PFDs. If shit happensŽ too fast, grab anything that will keep you afloat. You certainly dont want to lose at the shipwrecked sailor game. Here are some of the winners. The losers for the most part remain largely unknown. Be prepared! Father and Son, Two-Time Survivors The book Survive the Savage Sea tells the firsthand story of the Robertson family. In 1971 they bought Lucette , a 43-foot wooden schooner, to sail around the world. The family sailed across the Atlantic to the Caribbean, and through the Panama Canal to the Galapagos Islands. But several days after leaving the Galapagos, attacked by a pod of orca whales, Lucette sank. The Robertson family was alone on the Pacific Ocean, outside the shipping lanes. It was more than a month before they were missed. They drifted 16 days in their liferaft with their dinghy in tow, with not nearly enough food or water. On the 17th day, the raft sank, and they piled into their nine-foot dinghy for 22 more days until rescued by a Japanese fishing trawler. The six of them miraculously survived in the dinghy with less than ten inches of freeboard by catching fish and turtles for nourishment. This English Family Robertson adventure is even more notable since the father had previously survived the Japanese sinking his Royal Navy ship during WWII; and the son, as a Royal Naval Cadet on his first ship, later survived another sinking in the Pacific. Most Resilient For decades, a Chinese seaman named Poon Lim held the worlds shipwreck survivor record. ( According to the Guinness Book of Records , the record for drifting at sea is held by two Kiribati fishermen, from the atoll of Nikunau, who drifted for 177 days in 1992 before coming ashore on the eastern end of Samoa.) Poon Lim floated alone in a liferaft on the South Atlantic for 133 days when he was 25 years old. His ship, a British merchant, quickly sank after it was torpedoed off Cape Town, South Africa, in November of 1942. He luckily found a wooden eight-foot square raft with some cans of biscuits, a jug of water, flares, and a flashlight lashed to it. He rationed himself to a few swallows of water and two biscuits twice a day. He missed rescue three times. Once a freighter passed nearby, a US Navy patrol plane actually buzzed his raft, but he was ignored. His third time wasnt a charm as a German sub (maybe the one that sank his ship) saw him, but submerged and left him to drift. Poon Lim forgot about rescue and fought to keep himself alive until he found land. To keep his strength up, he swam twice a day when the sea was calm. He converted the cloth of his life jacket to a rain catchment. To catch fish, he used the line that held his supplies, made a fishhook from a flashlight part, and first baited it with a piece of biscuit. The fish he caught were eaten raw and the remains used as bait to catch the next fish. He trapped seagulls, using fish as bait, and ate them. He also caught small sharks for survival food. He scratched a calendar of days adrift on his raft. After 132 days he was rescued at the mouth of the Amazon River in Brazil! His feat made him an international celebrity. He had only lost 20 pounds and after a month recuperating in a Brazilian hospital he went to New York City and was given permanent US residency. Poon Lim was awarded the British Empire Medal and the Royal Navy included his survival techniques in their training manuals. His tale is told by Ruthanne Lum McCunn in the 1985 book Sole Survivor: A Story of Record Endurance at Sea . Another Whale Maurice and Maralyn Bailey were sailing in the Pacific on their 40-foot yacht, Auralyn . Mr. Bailey was a 42-year-old printer and his wife was a 33-year-old tax clerk. As they describe in their book 117 Days Adrift , all went well until a sperm whales tail smashed their boat. They collected what they could take with them into the liferaft: totaling 33 cans of food, containers for collecting rain, a knife, and a handful of safety pins, which enabled them to catch small fish. For 117 days, the nine-foot raft was their home. Their supplies lasted only ten days. The raft cover was their only way of collecting rain. Big turtles were grabbed by a flipper and, with some difficulty, wrestled aboard the raft and consumed. Seven ships crossed within miles without sighting their raft. For a long time, no one knew they were missing: they were only expected in Tahiti after a month-long voyage. As they drifted they planned a new sailboat and another voyage. Each lost about 40 pounds before being rescued by a Korean fishing boat 1,500 miles from the site of their shipwreck. Best True Shipwreck Novel Adrift was written by Steven Callahan, an American, who drifted in the North Atlantic for 76 days and 1,800 miles in a covered liferaft. Callahan wrote his novel after staying alive by eating barnacles and fish, and distilling seawater with a solar still. Callahan was better equipped than most shipwreck survivors. Six days after departing the Canary Islands, bound for the Caribbean, Callahan felt a serious thud followed by a torrent of water into his boats hull. The boat had been hit, probably by a whale or a barely afloat container. In minutes he launched the wellprepared raft he later named Rubber Ducky . He speared dorado and credited that with keeping him alive. Sea Survival was the one book he saved from the shipwreck. Callahan saw a few ships pass, but no one saw his raft. On his 43rd day, as he was fishing, a dorado rammed the spear into an inflated tube of his raft. The fish that fed him almost killed him. But in the end the dorado caused his rescue. Callahans raft had formed its own floating eco-system. Its barnacles provided food for the dorado. Fishermen off the tiny island of Marie Galante, east of Guadeloupe, saw frigate birds in the distance. These birds meant fish were nearby so they motored in that direction. They did not see the Rubber Ducky until they got close. Callahan is quoted: Its not about the destination, its about the journey; adventure is available to anyone.Ž It took him another six weeks of hospital rehabilitation to regain his full strength. Thanks, but no thanks to the opportunity to write a first-person story about survival at sea after a sinking. Id rather read anothers account. But then again, Id rather be around to write about the adventure if I had it. PRODUCT POSTINGSEco-Friendly Oil Clean-Up Kit The environmentally friendly Oil Clean-Up Kit from Clean Water Solutions Inc. makes keeping your boat pristine easy, and protecting the environment a simple, achievable reality. Just a small amount of Clean Water Microbial Powder and Blue Surfactant mixed with water will lift oil residue and pollutants from any surface and kills odors, while the Kits Razor Sponge easily wipes away oil and grime. Fast, efficient, and low-cost, the Kit is perfect for cleaning and deodorizing heads, bilges, catch basins, septic tanks, porous surfaces and even laundry! The key to Clean Water Solutions eco-friendly products are naturally-occurring Archaea microbes in the Oil Clean-Up Kit that eatŽ hydrocarbons from diesel fuel and gasoline, grease, lubricants, vegetable oils and sewage. Best of all, these microbes convert the dangerous hydrocarbons into beneficial, non-hazardous fatty acids that provide food for fish and plant life. For more information visit www.cwsius.com. No Sweat! Gone are the days of noisy, maintenance-intensive dehumidifiers that eat up space and power. Now boatowners can protect their investment from moisture and mold with the new, award-winning DryBoat from Delta TŽ Systems. The innovative marine dehumidifier system is one-third the size of traditional compressor/condenser type units and uses a fraction of the power. Its small, solid-state heat pump provides an unmatched level of reliability and efficiency. Winner of the 2008 Innovation Award for Interior Parts given at the Marine Aftermarket Accessories Trade Show, the powerful DryBoat reduces humidity in spaces up to 39.6 cubic metres. Innovation Award judge Charles Doane, who is SAIL magazines editor-at-large, said, This device employs technology that promises to revolutionize interior climate control in boats.Ž For more information visit www.deltatsystems.com. New Twist for Cleaner, Safer Boating As one of the worlds leading designers and manufacturers of marine toilets, Jabsco continues to search for new ways to improve its products and functionality. The new Twist n LockŽ manual toilet range does just that by addressing the issues of syphonic flooding and waste backflow. In their installation instructions, Jabsco have always promoted the use of sea cocks, vented loops and the correct positioning of holding tanks. However, modern boat design tends to work against these basic principles, with sea cocks hidden from view and even holding tanks installed above, rather than below the toilet. The new Jabsco Twist n LockŽ design uses a remodelled piston in the pump-out assembly. At the end of normal pumping out, at the bottom of the pump stroke, the user simply turns the handle through 90 degrees, which locks the piston down onto the base outlet valve keeping it securely shut. Turning the handle to the normal operating position opens the lock again. It is a simple and intuitive solution, meaning skippers can sleep easy in the knowledge that even in a big seaway, with a less than perfectly installed unit, no water, or worse, waste, will find its way into the cabin. The Twist n LockŽ system is being installed on all Jabsco Manual Toilets, both Compact and Regular Bowl sizes and at no addition to the retail price. For more information visit www.jabsconews.com. More Energy-Saving LED Lights Two new LED lights from Hella marine get a mention this month: Their stylish LED Oblong Courtesy and Step Lamps are important contributors to safety on board, and consuming a miniscule 0.5 watts, Hella Marines unique Multivolt LED technology versions provide consistent illumination across a range of input voltages from ten to 33 DC. Designed and manufactured in New Zealand, these lamps are extremely shockand vibration-resistant with no bulbs or filaments to break. Ideal for illuminating storage areas, companionways, deck fittings, signs and switches, classy Oblong Courtesy Lamps are available in amber, red, blue, green and white. Hella has also recently announced its new compact, reliable power-saving LED Navigation Lamps. Easily seen from two nautical miles away, the lamps offer all the energy-saving and dependability benefits of Hella Marine LED technology. Their NaviLED lamps draw less than two watts each, ten percent of the power of a comparable incandescent bulb. They are a complete fit and forgetŽ electronic device, fully sealed to protect against the harmful effects of saltwater corrosion. Hella Marine multivolt circuitry ensures consistent illumination from eight to 28 volts DC, even under low battery voltages and high charging loads. Quality marine cable is pre-wired with each lamp, providing time-saving, waterproof installations. NaviLED lamps are certified for recreational and commercial vessels under IMO COLREG, USCG, RINA (I) and ABYC A-16 standards. Advanced lens and optic designs ensure highly accurate cut-offs and clear visibility. Intended for sail and powerboats, the innovative lamps even take into account vertical visibility when a sailboat is heeling. For more information on Hella marine products visit www.hellamarine.com.

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SEPTEMBER 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 34 SEPTEMBER 2008 ARIES (21 Mar 20 Apr) Your love life could be sailing into rough weather with a possible on the rocksŽ situation in the last half of the month. Reef the sails early and try to see the humor in things. TAURUS (21 Apr 21 May) This will be a very prolific time: youll be finding creative courses to make your business or financial situation a success. Aspects are good for inspiration and insight. GEMINI (22 May 21 Jun) September will be a slog to windward with petty business problems and difficulties in creative decision-making. You may feel overwhelmed, but your crew and boatbuddies will be there for you. CANCER (22 Jun 23 Jul) There will be a general ebb tide in your love life, accompanied by squalls of arguments. Power through it: avoidance, one of Cancers most renowned traits, will only serve to prolong the discomfort. LEO (24 Jul 23 Aug) Youll have the time and energy, so this would be a good month to concentrate on making progress in the projects demanding attention on board. VIRGO (24 Aug 23 Sep) This will be a good month for progress with any marinerelated business. Your creativity will increase the flow of business ideas. Make use of this. LIBRA (24 Sep 23 Oct) You will be kept very busy with the ups and downs in the sea of love until the 21st, when it either clears up or goes on the rocks. SCORPIO (24 Oct 22 Nov) Spend this time clearing the decks, as love should take all your time after the 24th. SAGITTARIUS (23 Nov 21 Dec) Winds will be a bit weak and fluky this month, especially in any business or creative ventures. CAPRICORN (22 Dec 20 Jan) Your love life will take all your energies, especially from the 7th to the 24th with a constant to and fro of emotions. AQUARIUS (21 Jan 19 Feb) The very aspects that humbug Capricorn will bring fair weather in your love life. Enjoy it. PISCES (20 Feb 20 Mar) Any business or creative projects you take on will just bring you frustration and aggravation. Youll be stuck in business irons for several weeks but the creativity will clear up after the 23rd. I s l a n d Island P o e t s Poets PARLUMPS@HOTMAIL.COMparlumps marooned Our Advertisers Support the Compassƒ Please Support Them. We are on-line:www.caribbeancompass.com Adrift Nestled in the genny bag Watching the new day begin The sun rises between my knees. The dark band of scruffy clouds Scatters left and right From the explosive light Which brightens a towering cumulus out west So white its shadow cast upon the sea Suggests a sandy beach where none can be. The French-blue sky is streaked With pink and yellow The band of clouds splits apart Where the orange ball will start. Ahead, and south, a squall line threatens Then begins to dissipate as if intimidated By the sight. No wind. The sea is calm, Its form a series of long one-foot swells. The sun has become a white burning disk. I turn my back To face the cool blues of the western sky, And there, to the north, is the glint of metal Of an approaching ship.„ Cornelia Haden Brewer

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SEPTEMBER 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 35 Crossword Solution on page 28 Word Search Puzzle solution on page 26 Word Search Puzzle by Pauline DolinskiThey say that the pen is mightier than the sword, but all you puzzle pirates might want to use pencil „ unless youre very brave and bold! Compass Cruising Crossword DEAD IN THE WATERACROSS2) 5 Across ____: making as little progress as possible 4) Fifteen 28 Down on a 5 Across ____ 19 AcrossŽ: pirate chantey 5) Not alive 7) 5 Across ____wind: sailing with the breeze astern 8) 5 Across _____: hoisting of inert body 11) 5 Across ______: completely level 12) 5 Across ______: sailed back to homeport with no cargo or passengers 14) 5 Across ___: block with hole to allow lines to pass through 15) 5 Across _____: these are fitted to outside of quarterdeck to keep sea out 18) 5 Across ______: aperture in heel of topmast for tackle pendant 19) Pirates booty holder? 21) 5 Across ____ _____: timbers that connect keel with stem and stern posts (2 words) 23) 5 Across _____: sea under stern counter when ship is underway 25) 5 Across ______: part of ship between keel and floor timbers towards stern posts 26) 5 Across ____: Total cessation of wind 27) 5 Across ___: slang for death benefit 29) To muffle noise 30) 5 Across ___ against: adamantly opposed to 32) 5 Across ______: heavy cargo Down1) 5 Across ___: point where no further progress can be made 3) 5 Across ____: timber on upper side of keel 4) 5 Across ______: slang for winter 6) Katabatic, coriolis and lee-bow are types of these 9) 5 Across _______: payment due for goods not shipped 10) 5 Across _____ 6 Down: deceased sailors possessions auctioned before the mast 13) 5 Across _____: area open to attack 16) 5 Across _________: navigation without use of stars 17) Fatal 20) 5 Across ____: rough block of wood used as anchor buoy 21) 5 Across _____: all of ship above waterline when fully laden 22) 5 Across ______: allowance given to officers of ship 24) 5 Across _____: those that do not run through any block 28) 5 Across ___: sail-tie or gasket ends left dangling under the yard when sails are furled 31) 5 Across __ weather: straight into the wind

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SEPTEMBER 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 36 Do you remember why scientific names are important? They help to identify individual organisms even when there may be more than one local name. For example, the fish called rock hind in Bequia is often called oualioua (walawa) in Carriacou but its scientific name of Epinephelus adscensionus lets us know that were all talking about the same fish! What language is used for scientific names? They are written in Latin (and sometimes Greek). Latin was the language used by all scientists for scientific writing at the time when Linnaeus was compiling his lists of species. So we continue to use it today. When Linnaeus first formulated his classification system, he divided the world into three kingdoms: animals, plants and minerals. However, the mineral kingdom was soon abandoned so that the Linnaean system dealt only with living things. As science and technology progressed over the centuries, other different kinds of organisms were discovered so now, we usually use five kingdoms called animalia , plantae , fungi , monera and protista . What are these? We can usually recognize animals and plants but, scientifically, they are described as follows. Animals in the animalia kingdom are organisms made of many cells. They can move around and they eat and then digest their food. Plants in the plantae kingdom are also multi-cellular but they cannot move around and they make their own food by photosynthesis. Organisms like mushrooms are multicellular and grow like a plant but they have no chlorophyll (which is the substance which makes a plant green) so they cannot photosynthesize. So mushrooms, toadstools, moulds, yeasts, etcetera, cannot fit in to the plantae kingdom and have their own: fungi . The development of the microscope enabled scientists to see the very, very tiny creatures which make up the protista and the monera kingdoms. Both are made up of single-celled organisms but the algae and protozoans in the protista kingdom are larger and have a different kind of cell nucleus than the bacteria of the monera kingdom. It is sometimes very difficult to distinguish between organisms in the fungi, protista and monera kingdoms. Some scientists have even split the monera kingdom into two to help with the classification of these microscopic organisms. They put true bacteria ( eubacteria ) in one kingdom and bacteria-like organisms which live in extreme conditions in deep ocean hydrothermal vents ( archaebacteria ) in another. As more and more species are discovered, their classification becomes more complicated. Linnaeuss classification with its seven taxonomic levels (kingdom, phylum, class, order, family, genus, species) has had to be extended to include sub levels and super levels. But, the end of the taxonomic chain for each living organism on earth is still its scientific name. WORD PUZZLE Unscramble these words from the text and insert in the box. Find the special word written vertically. 1. D R O W L 2. A R T I S T O P 3. T A L E N A P 4. M O D G I N K 5. A N A I L A I M 6. E M A N O R 7. U F I N G 8. M E S S T YELAINE OLLIVIERRE 2008 © PROUDLY SPONSORED BY PETIT ST. VINCENT RESORT Hello! My name is Dolly and my home is in the sea.DOLLYS DEEP SECRETSby Elaine Ollivierre CRUISING KIDS CORNERA unt Josephina had grown so tired of hearing her son Ernie complain about having nothing to do when the school holidays came around that she agreed to let his cousin Trevor from St. Lucia stay with them whenever he could make it. Well, you couldnt really blame Ernie for being bored, because they did live way over on the wild Atlantic coast of Barbados, far from the busy beaches and energetic life of Bridgetown. His father, Uncle Solly, was retired and he liked the quiet life of keeping his two superior goats, a mild cow and his dear old pony, Matilda, on their little property high above Sweet Bottom. But Uncle Solly was also tired of having to drive the two restless boys about the island so he bought Ernie a pushbike, second-hand of course, and that meant that he had to buy Trevor a second-hand bike as well. Now, most young people wouldnt be seen dead on an oldfashioned bike so Uncle Solly got the bikes very cheap. Nyna, Ernies little sister, immediately begged for a bike too, but Aunt Josephina put her foot down. No way!Ž she said with her dont-argue-withme voice. Bad enough to have Ernie getting into mischief, but not my daughter.Ž It was no use appealing to her dad either, because what Aunt Josephina said was always final. Oh, brother!Ž laughed Trevor when he saw the two old-fashioned bikes. I wouldnt be seen dead on one of these at home!Ž But Ernie told him to shut up and be thankful for small mercies (or words to that effect). And that is how Trevor and Ernie almost lost their biking privileges for all time. It happened like this. Every morning after breakfast, Trevor and Ernie would take a couple of sandwiches and a plastic bottle of water and some juice (they werent allowed money) in a small backpack and ride off to explore the nearby beaches. They didnt go very far at first, usually stopping at a cove somewhere nearby and swimming in the cool, salt water, then running and playing on the sand. But this became too tame for Trevor and he convinced Ernie to venture inland. This is how they found themselves outside the racecar circuit. Gosh,Ž smiled Ernie, Dad always promised to take me to see the racecars but he never got around to it.Ž And he sat on his bike and sighed. Come on then,Ž urged Trevor, lets find a way inside!Ž Ernie didnt need persuading and the two boys cycled off around the chainlink fence until they came to the big entry gates that, surprise, surprise, stood wide open. Trevor and Ernie pedaled through, seeing no one „ they didnt know that the race committee was having a meeting in the hall by the stands. What they did see was a sleek, green sports car. They had no eyes to see the other cars parked behind the stands so Trevor and Ernie dropped their bikes and ran down the path to inspect this wondrous machine. When I grow up, the first thing Im going to get is a sports car just like this!Ž gushed Trevor, running his hands along the side of the car from its aerodynamic windfoil to its low-slung nose. Look Trevor, someones left the keys in the ignition!Ž whispered Ernie in awe. Trevor, being a boy with more bravado than sense, immediately whipped open the door, climbed in behind the steering wheel, pulled the seatbelt tight about him and pretended to drive, his throat uttering the low thrum-thrumsŽ of a sports car engine. Trevor, Trevor, get out before youre caught!Ž begged Ernie. But Trevor, his eyes unfocused, bleated back, Jump in, Ernie!Ž And with that Trevor turned the key in the ignition and a great roar issued from the chrome exhaust pipe. Trevor slung the lever into first gear and Ernie had no choice but to throw himself into the passenger seat and slam the door before the door slammed him into pie meat. Trevors dad had given his son some driving lessons at home so Trevor did know something about cars, but the power of this car almost bucked him off the track. He changed gear with a horrible grinding noise and zigzagged madly all over the racing surface. Nor did he really know where he was going because once on the circuit he had a choice of all sorts of side roads into pits, smaller circuits and inspection areas. Trevor was jolted by the rough surface of the track as well, not realizing that a smooth surface would send the cars all skidding into each other when they accelerated or took the turns, especially if it rained. So Trevor had his hands full just keeping the car on the wide track in front of him. As for Ernie, the first thing he had done was to look down and grab for his seatbelt fastening it tight, but when he looked up the breath caught in his throat and his eyes bulged with fright because everything was coming up in front of him so fast. By now, the race committee members had come pouring out of the hall and were running in all directions around the circuit, waving their arms and shouting. But Trevor saw and heard none of this. All he wanted to do now was to slow down. He threw the car into the gears; one after the other, hoping the machine would slow down by itself. He was too frightened to touch the brakes, thinking that would catapult them through the windscreen, and too panic-stricken to turn off the ignition. At last, after two full laps, Ernie managed to croak, Trevor, try turning off the ignition and then use the brakes!Ž Needless to say, Trevor eventually managed to get the car to slow down and he even steered it back to where he had found it. When the doors were yanked open and angry faces looked inside, Trevor was just sitting there, paralyzed with shock. Although Ernie managed to get out of the car by himself, his legs buckled as soon as his feet hit the ground. Trevor had to be released from his seatbelt and pulled roughly from the car and then the two boys were frog-marched to the office. The owner of the car stayed behind with some friends to inspect the car for damage. And what a to-do followed! Uncle Solly had been phoned to come at once, but he wisely told his wife that the two boys had got into a harmless prank and needed to be taken home, thats all. The boys waited, shaking with fright, until Uncle Solly arrived. He was told all the details and warned that if the boys did it again the police would be involved. Fortunately the racecar suffered no damage or else the consequences would have been far worse. At last Uncle Solly was allowed to tie the bikes onto the roof rack of his car and take the boys home. He drove in silence all the way to the top of the steep coral road high above the angry Atlantic, which was worse punishment for the boys than the biggest lecture. Here Uncle Solly stopped the car and turning to the boys said, Best not to upset Aunt Josephina, boys. I wont tell her the seriousness of your narrow escape this time, but let this be a warning „ any more trouble and youre grounded for good.Ž Trevor and Ernie breathed a deep sigh of relief and as Uncle Solly drove through the gate to the farmyard they had to agree that the sneers of those two superior goats were well deserved. THE END AtltUlSlllldttithbikt Swimming in the cool, salt water, then running and playing on the sand became too tameƒ Trevor, Ernie and the Racecar by Lee Kessell 9 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8Answer on page 42

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SEPTEMBER 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 37 NEW GUIDE TO CETACEANS OF THE ANTILLES A la découverte des Cétacés des Antilles , PLB Editions ©2008. Hard cover, 64 pages, color photos and illustrations. ISBN 978-2-35365-004-0. A new reference guide to the cetaceans of the Caribbean has recently been published in French. It is one of the A la découverte...Ž series from PLB Editions. PLB Editions is a Guadeloupe-based publishing company that produces field guides to the trees, flowers, birds and fish of the Antilles, as well as childrens books and books in Creole. Good guides already exist to the whales and dolphins of the world, but this is the first that we are aware of specifically devoted to the cetaceans found in the Antilles. For the purpose of this book, the Antilles include the island chain running from Cuba to Grenada, plus the Bahamas and the islands of Providencia and San Andres off Nicaragua. Whalewatching is a growing business in the region, with trips offered out of Antigua, Dominica, the Dominican Republic, Grenada, Guadeloupe, St. Kitts & Nevis, St. Lucia, St. Vincent and Turks & Caicos. Its also a thrill to see whales or dolphins from the deck of a private or charter yacht. But do you know what they are? The great whales commonly seen in this area are the humpback ( Megaptera novaeangliae , or baleine à bosse in French) and the sperm whale ( Physeter macrocephalus , or cachalot in French). A thoroughly illustrated chapter is devoted to each. There are also chapters on each of the numerous dolphin species found in these waters. This handy guide will be primarily of interest to French-speakers, but even if your French is rusty, the abundant, clear photos and illustrations will be useful in identification. The publishers hope to release editions of the book in English and Spanish in the near future. Available in Guadeloupe at the Musée Balen ka Souflé à Bouillante, and at other outlets in Guadeloupe and Martinique. For more information contact evastropic@wanadoo.fr. Portrait of Port of Spain Historic Landmarks of Port of Spain , by Michael Anthony. Macmillan Caribbean © 2008. Hard cover or paperback, 102 pages, color photos throughout. ISBN 978-0-333-97555-8. Trinidadian novelist and historian Michael Anthony introduces us to the colorful, crowded and sometimes crazy history of the capital city of Trinidad & Tobago by writing about its most notable buildings, parks, cemeteries and public squares. His text is well illustrated with photos and maps. This seaside city boasts some lovely examples of traditional Caribbean architecture, such as the former private residence that is now Jennys restaurant and the exquisite Simpson House, as well as a few modern buildings that reflect both taste and a sense of place and culture. Unfortunately, it also has some discordantly severe specimens, such as the Colonial Life Building and the Treasury Building, that seem more reminiscent of Soviet Russia than emblematic of the country that made Carnival the premier Caribbean art form. Most visitors will have seen the ornate, European-influenced, early 20th century Magnificent SevenŽ buildings laid out along the Queens Park Savannah, and these are given due attention. The full selection of examples shows Port of Spain and its history as they are „ the good, the bad and the ugly. Each building or site acts as a focal point for the authors description of a different aspect of Port of Spains history, and the sum of the parts is a well-rounded picture of a unique Caribbean town. We only wish that the books cover, which shows a statue of a rather bored-looking Sir Ralph Woodford (British governor from 1813 to 1828), had instead depicted something as lively as Port of Spain itself. Available at bookstores in Trinidad or at www.Macmillan-caribbean.com.

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SEPTEMBER 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 38 Island Story The Condition, by Jennifer Haigh. HarperCollins, © 2008. Hardcover, ISBN 978-0-06-075578-2. Imaginary islands in fiction tend to be one of two types: a truly fantastic place, without specific geology or position, where something extraordinary, good or bad, can happen or a place grounded in reality, often a mix of existent known islands, where things more common to our general experience happen. As examples, consider William Goldings Lord of the Flies or Herman Melvilles Omoo . In Goldings allegorical novel, extraordinary adventures beset a group of boys stranded on an imaginary island after a plane crash; in Melvilles story, on the other hand, the hero escapes from Typee, an island based on the Marquesas, and moves on to Tahiti and elsewhere. However conceived, there is about islands in literature a certain magical quality and we have only to recall Shakespeares The Tempest to see that change and transformation can occur on an imaginary island, far from civilization, so-called, and organized society. St. Raphael, the Caribbean island in Jennifer Haighs new novel The Condition, fits more or less in the second group. Haighs two previous novels are Baker Towers (2005) and the PEN/Hemingway Award-winning Mrs. Kimble (2003). St. Raphael is described as being in the Leewards and yet a hurricane strikes nearby St. Lucia. In fact, St. Raphael resembles St. Lucia in most respects, with a French patois, inclusive resorts on a north coast, nude beaches, reef and wall diving, a cruise ship terminal, drug running, and so on. Not that it really matters. What does matter is that it is an island that facilitates change „ change in the novels major character. Gwen McKotche suffers from a rare genetic disorder, Turners Syndrome, which is caused by a missing or defective X chromosome in females. It occurs in about one of 2,500 live female births. Its main symptoms are short stature and infertility„ovaries do not develop. There is no cure for the problem although growth-hormone injections and estrogen can modify some of the symptoms. The girl ages intellectually and emotionally but remains physically arrested at age 12, before puberty. As a result, Gwen has suffered all her adult life for being something of a freak, and her immediate family has suffered to various degrees with and because of her disorder. However, it is on St. Raphael, at age 34, that Gwen comes into her own and finds acceptance for who she is, as she is. And to some extent, at that point, the story line leaves medical boundaries and ascends into unbounded transformation. One of the few activities Gwen does is scuba diving and it is to dive that she travels to St. Raphael. Once installed in Pleasures,Ž a resort catering to singles, she suffers the usual humiliations that come with her condition. But in the water, She was gliding like a spirit whod escaped its container. She had no body. It was the freest feeling she had ever known.Ž On the boat she meets Rico, the dive master, and new possibilities unfold. In meeting him, she meets herself and for the first time experiences a wild random joy.Ž While Rico, a native islander, is in many ways a stock character (the handsome, glib boat operator to whom the vacation girls give their room keys), he is also a sort of Prospero. The novel is not about Gwen alone, however, even though it is written around her. Gwens family members „ father, mother, older brother, and younger brother „ each get equal attention. It is really a multilayered story about a dysfunctional New England family, a domestic psychodrama that takes place over some 25 years. Both parents and both siblings also have conditions that could be considered as aberrant as Turners, outside what the mother considers the natural order of things.Ž The family members are all sympathetically and deeply imagined, and have their own points-of-view. The narrative is languorously and skillfully told, meticulously researched, and profoundly moving. It is the youngest son, Scott, who is sent by the mother to St. Raphael to find out what has happened to Gwen and bring her back to civilizationŽ „ back to the USA, back to her job as a curator in a Pittsburgh anthropological museum, back to her suffocating family, back to a pretty miserable, bleak, and solitary life. In Scotts search for Gwen, we see a different view of St. Raphael and its locals, and we see how the island affects him. The Condition is a novel of reversals „ characters go one way only to go another and then still another. While Gwen does escape the continent and find a new life on St. Raphael with Rico, the other family members are changed only to remain, in the end, no different. The novel is arguably less about Gwen than about her mother, Paulette „ selfish, neurotic, partly educated and partly vacant, all controlling. Be that as it may, we are not at all unhappy with Gwens island fate and the healing hope of love, the power of transformation. Nor are we unhappy to see the cultural assumptions each character embodies challenged. Not just beauty or ugliness, the normalŽ or the deviant,Ž but all things human, we come to see in this compelling, insightful novel, are in the eye of the beholder. Available at bookstores and from www.amazon.com. BOOK REVIEW BY RICHARD DEY

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SEPTEMBER 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 39 B & C FUELS ENTERPRISEWelcomes you to Petite MartiniqueA stepping stone as you cruise through St. Vincent, Grenada and the Grenadines. Come alongside our splendid jetty and replenish your supplies of FUEL, OIL, WATER and ICE at the cheapest prices in the Grenadines. Call sign: Golf SierraŽ VHF channel 16 For further information call Glenn Clement or Reynold Belmar. Tel/Fax: (473) 443-9110 GRENADINES SAILS & CANVASBEQUIACome in and see us for all your SAILS & CANVAS needs including CUSTOM-MADE stainless steel BIMINI & DODGER frames at competitive pricesLocated opposite G.Y.E. (northern side of Admiralty Bay) Tel (784) 457-3507 / 457-3527 (evenings) e-mail: gsails@vincysurf.com VHF Ch16/68 REPRESENTATIVE Trouble Tree , by John Hill Porter. Macmillan Caribbean, ©2008. 320 pages. ISBN 978-4050-7105-5. Trouble Tree is a murder mystery that cleverly links an NYPD arson detective with his fathers roots in Barbados. In the opening scene a mysterious lanky stranger shoots the detective, Ben Cumberbatch, in the head. Although Ben goes temporarily into a coma, the wound is not fatal. However, it requires extensive therapy for Ben to recall any events in the near past. As part of his therapy he starts writing his family history, and the reader begins to discover Bens troubled family tree. Trouble tree doan bear no blossomŽ is the Bajan proverb that lends the book its name. Ben and his father, Nate, are descendants of Bajan redlegsŽ, a combination of English debtors, Scottish poor and Irish political prisoners who were sent to the colonies as indentured servantsŽ, virtual slaves to the plantation owners of the 17th and 18th Centuries. They worked on the plantations for at least seven years. They were desperately poor and became inbred, since they looked down upon marrying blacks as much as their masters looked down on them. Bens grandmother Dora fathered Nate with a black man so that Nate wouldnt suffer the genetic fate of his two half-siblings. Unfortunately the reader never gets to know Nate, since he dies while Ben is in the coma. Nate is portrayed as a responsible father and fun-loving gigolo before his life was cut short, the victim of a vicious attack in Brooklyn. All is not well in Barbados, either, as Bens uncle is murdered and the murder is covered up by the local Police Chief, Ollie Shorter. In an amazing coincidence, Ben and Ollie were childhood friends „ Ben had visited his Grandmother Dora for three consecutive summers as a youth „ and Ollies sister Annie had been Bens first love. Annie comes back into Bens life in an unexpected way, giving the novel a tasteful and sexy twist to the menacing conspiracy that Ben is trying to uncover. Murder and (in another coincidence) arson are eventually linked back to a mysterious group of wealthy power brokers who rule the island. Ben pays a heavy price to try and uncover the murderers through expert sleuthing and a forensic lab in New York City. My only problem with the original mystery was that it was a little too obvious. A clumsy clue was dropped early on that killed the suspense for me. However, as the novel progresses, and as Ben tries to regain memories of the night he was shot, his personal ties to Ollie and Annie compromise his objectivity. The ending is satisfying, though bittersweet, and Ben joins the ranks of Sam Spade (as played by Humphrey Bogart) as a hero. My second problem with the book had to do with one of its villains, a man whose homosexual past was the cause of such psychological problems that he became a homicidal nut. Im personally tired of that stereotype, even though the author took some pains to describe the misery that anti-gay prejudice in the Caribbean can cause. Recognizing prejudice is one thing, but enforcing negative stereotypes only clutters the mind that the prejudice is somehow warranted. Given these faults, the novel is lucidly written, particularly the early chapters about young Ben in Barbados. As he works in his Grandma Doras garden every day to earn his keep, he learns the value of hard labor, family ties, and money and class differences in the West Indies. The redlegsŽ today have offspring in St. Vincent (Dorsetshire Hill), Bequia (Mount Pleasant), Grenada (Mount Moritz), and in Carriacou, the irony being that in those islands many are among the most well-to-do of local families through dint of their work ethic and maritime skills. But Trouble Tree has a universal West Indian core, which redeems its minor flaws. I couldnt put it down „ a fascinating and edifying read. Available at bookstores or from www.macmillan-caribbean.com. BOOK REVIEW BY BOB BERLINGHOFWhodunnit — and Who are the Redlegs? e rs B en t al. h is me. td y e n t

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SEPTEMBER 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 40 TYRREL BAY YACHT HAULOUT CARRIACOU New environmentally friendly haulout 50-ton hoist, 18ft beam, 8ft draft Water Do it yourself or labour available Mini Marina Chandlery VHF: 16 tbyh@usa.net Tel/Fax: 473.443.8175 „ Continued from page 10 ƒEco News He also stated that the workshop will assist in building a network throughout the Grenadines as plans are underway for the annual International Coastal Cleanup scheduled for September 20th. Venezuelan Eco-Group on the Move The Venezuelan environmental group Fundación La Tortuga (FLT) has stepped up its activities to keep their countrys Caribbean coastline clean and green. On July 18th, nine youngsters from the Don Bosco Childrens Home in Puerto La Cruz celebrated Childrens Day by joining FLT members in an educational environmental survey of their coastal surroundings and collecting litter from Lechería Beach in the process. From the 24th through the 27th of July, the group held a coastal clean-up netting nearly a ton of debris. More than 50 volunteers, who camped out in tents for three nights, removed trash and other contaminants from beaches on the north side of Isla La Tortuga, the second-largest island in the country. Throughout 2008, FLT has undertaken various scientific expeditions aimed at monitoring, listing and collecting data on the natural resources of Isla La Tortuga. Assisted by researchers from the Oceanographic Institute of Venezuela, the University of Sucre State and the Sea Turtle Working Group of Nueva Esparta, the subjects studied so far have included birds, sea turtles, vegetation, corals, phytoplankton, cetaceans, algae and sponges. A recent FLT-assisted avian study by professor Gedio Marin of the University of Oriente listed the 37 species of seabirds, endemics and migratory visitors found on Isla Tortuga, 11 of which are protected. FLT notes that while birdwatching is a valuable component of tourism, overdevelopment, deforestation and littering are threats to these birds. For more information visit www.fundacionlatortuga.org. Jost van Dyke Wildlife Surveyed During a recent environmental survey, researchers Jean Pierre Bacle and Kevel Lindsay of the Island Resources Foundation recorded three species of bats and five species of frogs on the British Virgin Island of Jost van Dyke. The species of bats recorded were the Cave Bat ( Brachyphylla cavernum ), the Jamaican Fruit Bat ( Artibeus jamaicensis ) and Pallas Mastiff Bat ( Molossus molossus ). The five species of frogs identified were the Antillean Frog ( Eleutherodactylus antillensis ), the Mute Frog ( E. lentus ), Schwartzs Eleuterodactylus ( E. Schwartzi ), Cochraness Eleutherodactylus ( E. Cochrane ) and the White-lipped Frog ( Leptodactylus albilaris ). Other interesting findings were the presence of two species of harmless endemic snake „ the Virgin Islands Tree Boa ( Epicrates monensis granti ) and the Virgin Islands Worm Snake ( Typhlops richardi ). Three species of rare plants „ Jost van Dykes Indian Mallow Bastardiopsis eggersii , the Ramgoat Cherry ( Malpighia woodburyana ) and Cockspur ( Erythrina eggersii ) „ were also identified. The latter two plants were observed on Jost van Dyke for the first time. These findings are an initial output of an environmental project on Jost van Dyke that focuses on advancing environmental protection and sustainable development on that island. The project started in April and is expected to be completed in December 2009. The project is being coordinated by the Jost van Dykes (BVI) Preservation Society (JVDPS), a local, non-profit corporation dedicated to the preservation of the island of Jost van Dyke i.e. its land, the surrounding sea, its living creatures and its culture. Funding for the project comes from the Overseas Territories Environmental Programme (OTEP) and is disbursed through the Governors Office. „Continued on next page Litter is everybodys concern. While the Grenadines tackled the problem with a workshop for community awareness and education (above), in Venezuela (below) a massive beach clean-up was organized on Isla La Tortuga

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SEPTEMBER 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 41 LULLEYS TACKLE SHOP FISHING & DIVING GEAR DUTY FREETEL: (784) 458-3420 FAX: (784) 458-3797 EMAIL: lulley@caribsurf.comOur stock, quality, price, know-how and fishing experience is unsurpassedVisit us for all your needsFRONT STREET BEQUIA WEST INDIESSERVING FISHERMEN AND YACHTSPEOPLE SINCE 1950Penn & Diawa Rods & Reels Mustad Hooks Anglers Lures Rigged & Unrigged Leaders Fresh Bait Foul Weather Gear Snorkeling & Diving Gear Courtesy Flags Collectable KnivesYOUR #1 CHOICE IN FISHING GEARWire, Floats, Nets, Twines, Ropes Bequia Marina Open Monday to Saturday 8:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m.Look for the Big Blue Building and ask for Stan or Miguel! Water, Diesel, Ice, Bottled Water and Dockage available. The Yacht Club, Bequia Marina, Port Elizabeth, Bequia, St. Vincent & The Grenadines VHF 68, Telephone 784-457-3361 „ Continued from previous page Research on the natural and historical environment of Jost van Dyke will continue over the next six months, after which an environmental profile of Jost van Dyke will be prepared. Community input will be sought throughout the project and the community will be kept up to date on the progress of the project. Several of the Jost van Dyke residents who were present at a community meeting held on May 6th to introduce the project, voiced their support for the project and for any efforts to conserve the natural environment of Jost van Dyke. District Officer Carmen Blyden fully supports the initiative, noting that at present the children of Jost van Dyke study the natural environment of the neighboring islands of Tortola and Anegada. In her words, a project such as this gives us our own identityŽ. For more information on the project visit www. jvdgreen.org. For more information on the Jost van Dykes Preservation Society visit www.jvdps.org. Bonaire Tracks Sea Turtles Among its other efforts, Sea Turtle Conservation Bonaire (STCB) provides a unique service „ e-mail updates of the current whereabouts of sea turtles that are being tracked by satellite. In July, using this free service, we had the opportunity to follow WiskeŽ, a female loggerhead turtle, as she swam from Bonaire toward Nicaragua at a rate of between 80 and 100 kilometres a day. In the last several years STCB has tracked a total of six turtles to the waters off Nicaragua and Honduras. Another female loggerhead, named Greggy GirlŽ, was fitted with a satellite transmitter on the 1st of August, after she had laid her eggs on a beach at Klein Bonaire. With Greggy Girl‘ STCB achieved the goal of deploying two transmitters on turtles in 2008. Sea Turtle Conservation Bonaire exists to ensure the protection and recovery of Bonaires sea turtle populations throughout their range. Founded in 1992, the STCB is a Bonaire-based, non-governmental and nonprofit organization, part of the Wider Caribbean Sea Turtle Conservation Network. For more information visit www.bonaireturtles.org. St. Lucia Marina Resort Joins Green Link Discovery at Marigot Bay on the west coast of St. Lucia has joined the Leading Green Link programme. Through Leading Green Link, Discovery at Marigot Bay now enables travellers to make their reservations carbon-neutral when booking online at www.discoverystlucia.com. Each time they do so, The Leading Hotels of the World, Ltd. makes a contribution to Sustainable Travel International (STI), a non-profit organisation dedicated to promoting responsible travel through programmes that allow consumers to contribute to the well-being of the places they visit. By participating in this programme, we enable our guests to help increase climate-friendly travel through the donation of funds to offset the carbon emissions generated during their entire stay at Discovery, via the Leading Green Initiative,Ž said Discoverys Manager, Carl Beviere. And we are pleased to note that our room rates have not been inflated to support this programme, so there is no cost whatsoever to our guests.Ž Successfully launched last year, the Leading Green initiative is an innovative carbon-offset effort designed to enable and encourage guests to make conscious decisions and contributions towards environmentally friendly travel. This is not the first time Discovery has undertaken environmentally conscious initiatives. In July 2007, the hotel launched the Caribbeans first solar-powered ferry, the Sunshine Express , which won an Islands magazine Blue Award. In addition, all grey water is cleaned and filtered and used for irrigation, nothing goes into the waters of Marigot Bay. Discovery is working together with the rest of the local community to renourish the sand on nearby Labas Beach, and to stop future erosion by building protective reefs and regulating boat activity. For more information on the Leading Green Initiative visit www.lhwgreen.com. Research Cruise Postponed A cruise of the Grenadines aimed at completing a marine habitat map of that area has been postponed owing to the injury of three participants in a speedboat accident. As reported in last months Compass , the Grenadines MarSISŽ (Marine Resource and Spaceuse Information System) is an on-going research project led by Kim Baldwin, a PhD student of the Centre for Resource Management and Environmental Studies of the University of West Indies together with the Sustainable Grenadines Project based in Union Island. Kim has been working with local marineresource users of the Grenadines to map the various marine resources as well as identify areas of importance for conservation as well as for the livelihoods of the Grenadine communities. The researchers had intended to spend the month of August aboard a catamaran from The Moorings, exploring and mapping the little-known deeper areas of the Grenada Bank by either scuba diving or using a drop-camera to collect data. Unfortunately, on the fourth day of the cruise, after refilling gas and scuba tanks in Admiralty Bay, Bequia, in preparation for data collection in Balliceau and Battowia the next day, the SVG Fisheries Division pirogue in which Kim and her colleagues Sophia Punnett and Eustaces SantaŽ Vincent were travelling crashed into the rocks off Moonhole on their way back to the catamaran anchored in Friendship Bay. All three suffered injuries, which resulted in cancellation of the August cruise. All are recovering. Kim, whose shoulder was broken, says, The doctors say I need six to nine months before they will allow me to get back on a boat and diving and be able to use my arm in a physically demanding capacity. I do want to reassure everyone that the research will definitely continue and we are tentatively planning for a June 2009 survey, since the lobster surveys need to occur during closed season.Ž For more information on the Sustainable Grenadines Project visit http://cermes.cavehill.uwi.edu/susgrenadinesIndex.html. Turtle tracks from 2003 and 2004. A Bonaire-based conservation group uses satellite technology to learn more about our fellow voyagers

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SEPTEMBER 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 42 Your #1 Choice for Provisioning in the Grenadines.Fine Wine, Cheeses, Fresh Fruits, Vegetables and Choice MeatsMonday-Saturday: 8am to 12pm & 3pm to 6pm Sunday: 9am to 12pmTHE FOOD STORE Corea  s MustiqueTel: (784) 488-8479 Fax: (784) 456-5230 T H E S C I E N C E O F THE SCIENCE OF M A K I N G Y O G U R T MAKING YOGURT by Devi SharpMaking yogurt is not an art „ it is a science. I make this yogurt every week aboard Arctic Tern , and the cost is about 50 cents (US) per pint. Best of all, I always have yogurt for breakfast and recipes. I feel obliged to extol the virtues of yogurt, so here is my list: yogurt is high in protein and calcium, low in calories, and has those wonderful bacteria that help our gut stay healthy. Select containers with tight fitting lids. I like the Ziploc brand plastic containers with screw-on lids. Wash the containers and let them air dry or dry them with a clean towel. In a saucepan, combine the appropriate quantities of water and powdered milk to fit your container(s) and mix thoroughly. I usually use powdered skimmed milk, but the few times I have made it with whole milk it did not taste much different. Instead of powdered, you can use fresh or long-life milk, but you still must follow through on heating it. Heat the milk (with frequent stirring) in the saucepan to just near boiling (180°F). Heating the milk kills any undesirable bacteria that might be present and also changes the properties of the milk protein so that it gives the yogurt a firmer body and texture. Use a plastic or Teflon spoon or stainless whisk to stir. (Avoid wooden spoons because they tend to hold bacteria that might interfere with the bacteria in the yogurt.) Allow the milk to cool slightly. When it reaches 110°F to 115°F, add starter. Starter can be yogurt that you have saved from your last homemade batch or a good quality, unflavored and unsweetened commercial yogurt. Add about a quarter of a Cup of starter for every three Cups of milk. Mix well but gently. Do not incorporate too much air. If too much air is mixed in, the starter culture will grow slowly. Pour milk into clean container(s) and cover with lid(s). Incubate the filled containers at about 110°F. Do not stir the yogurt during this period. I put the containers in a small, insulated thermoŽ bag in the sun, or place the containers directly on Arctic Terns main engine if it is hot. Maintain the 110°F temperature until the milk coagulates with a firm custard-like consistency (three to eight hours). Check by gently tilting the container, then refrigerate. It will keep for two to three weeks in the refrigerator. I know that my incubation temperature is not exactly at 110°F, and while the yogurt may not be perfect it is always good. Remember to use a thermometer and clean utensils „ that is the science part. Devi is currently making yogurt aboard the sailing vessel Arctic Tern in Venezuela. Above: A warm yacht engine makes a nifty yogurt incubator Below: Or you can use an insulated bag to keep your culture happyDollys Answer 9 1WORLD 2PROTISTA 3PLANTAE 4KINGDOM 5ANIMALIA 6MONERA 7FUNGI 8SYSTEMSpecial word: LINNAEUS

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SEPTEMBER 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 43 BEQUIATel: (784) 458 3041New Location at Gingerbread Café !"#$%&'(%% ')%"&%' $**'%')% %%'%') *'%%%'*+ Stock Upon the widest selection and the best prices in Grenada at our two conveniently located supermarkets. Whether its canned goods, dairy products, meat, fresh vegetables or fruits, toiletries, household goods, or a fine selection of liquor and wine, The Food Fair has it all and a lot more.HubbardsJONAS BROWNE & HUBBARD (Gda.) Ltd. The Carenage: Monday Thursday 8 am to 5:30 pm Friday until 8:45 pm Saturday until 1:00 pm Tel: (473) 440-2588 Grand Anse: Monday Thursday 9 am to 5:30 pm Friday & Saturday until 7:00 pm Tel: (473) 444-4573 Have you seen the yellow, waxy, multi-sided, Star Trek-looking fruit in the market? West Indians call it star fruit, five fingers, or carambola. There are two varieties of star fruit, sour and sweet. The fruits with narrow fingersŽ or ribs are less sweet than the fruits with thick fingers. The fruit starts out green, and goes to yellow as it ripens; it can be eaten in both stages. In Trinidad I learned to make Five-Fingers Chow with the slightly ripe fruit. The ripe fruit makes a delicious and refreshing juice, and in Grenada at Pappys in Concord I tried tasty five-fingers wine. Ripe sweet five fingers are great eaten just picked and washed and the green or slightly ripe ones make excellent chow. They can also be stewed with cloves and raisins. Star fruit, cooked or raw, are a great accompaniment for seafood. Sliced crosswise into the five-pointed star shapes that give the fruit one of its names, this is a pretty and tasty addition to any fruit salad. The star fruit is believed to have originated in Sri Lanka or Ceylon and was cultivated for centuries in Southeast Asia before Spanish explorers brought trees to the Caribbean and the Americas. Star fruit juice will clean brass and silver! It will also remove rust stains from white clothes. West Indians use the five-finger fruit widely for many medicinal purposes. The juice will help reduce a fever and quench the associated thirst. Boiled fruit will relieve diarrhoea or a hangover. A salve made by continuously boiling the fruit to almost nothing is reportedly good for eye infections. Eating the ripe fruit is said to reduce haemorrhoids. A poultice of crushed leaves will fight ringworm. The powdered seeds are said to have a sedative effect and are useful in fighting childrens colic. One average star fruit has about ten calories. The fruit is high in carbohydrates, calcium, phosphorus, Vitamin C, and amino acids. Star Fruit Bread 4 medium star fruit 1/2 Cup sugar* 3/4 Cup milk 1 egg 1 Cup whole-wheat flour 1 Cup white bakers flour** 3/4 teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon baking powder 1 teaspoon baking soda 1 teaspoon powdered ginger 1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon 1/4 Cup currants or raisins Wash, de-seed and mince star fruit. Combine the fruit, sugar, milk, and egg in a large bowl. In another bowl mix the remaining ingredients. Slowly add the dry ingredients to the fruit combination and mix until all the flour is moist. Add a little extra flour if fruit is very juicy. Dont over-blend. Pour into greased bread pans and bake at 350°F for 45 minutes. * Increase amount of sugar if you have a sweet tooth or if star fruit is not sweet. ** Use up to a half Cup more flour if fruit is very juicy. Star Chicken 1 chicken, cut into serving pieces 1/4 Cup olive oil 2 Tablespoons honey 1/4 Cup fresh limejuice 2 Tablespoons lime zest (grated lime peel) 1 large sweet onion, sliced paper thin 1 Tablespoon fresh ginger, minced 1/2 hot pepper, seeded and minced salt to taste 4 star fruit, sliced in quarter-inch stars 1/2 Cup raw almonds (cashews or peanuts may be substituted) 1 bunch chadon benne, chopped fine Combine chicken, oil, honey, limejuice and zest, onions, ginger, pepper and salt in a large bowl, preferably one with a tight cover. Cover and refrigerate for a day or two, stirring occasionally. Put chicken mixture in a baking dish and cover with the nuts. Arrange star fruit slices over the top. Cover with foil and bake at 375°F for about half an hour. Then uncover and bake for another 20 minutes. Add chadon bene just before serving. FOR THE FARMERS: Growing a tree from seed is difficult since the seeds become infertile within a few days after removing them from the fruit, so have your potting soil ready! Choose nice fat seeds to plant, water carefully, and they should sprout in a week to ten days. Grafted trees can also be purchased at garden shops or nurseries. A star fruit tree is perfect for a home garden as they seldom grow more than 15 to 20 feet tall. If planting more than one, keep them at least 20 feet apart. Make certain the area you plant is well drained, as standing water is this trees biggest enemy. However, star fruit must be watered regularly during the dry season to produce a juicy crop. Run a hose for a half an hour every week during a dry spell. If necessary, spray the tree with a pesticide-miticide and foliar fertilizer once a month, and sprinkle about a half-cup of blue 12-12-17-2 every month around the base. SERVING AT SEA BY SHIRLEY HALL Star Fruit

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SEPTEMBER 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 44 rare + exotic arts + crafts interior designyoung street st. georges grenada tel: 440-2310e-mail: fisher@caribsurf.comJewelry, Wooden-Ware & Hammocks Marine Insurance The insurance business has changed. No longer can brokers talk of low rates. Rather, the honest broker can only say, Ill do my best to minimize your increase!Ž There is good insurance, there is cheap insurance, but there is no good cheap insurance. You never know how good your insurance is until you have a claim. Then, if the claim is denied or unsatisfactorily settled, it is too late.I have been in the insurance business 40 years, 36 with Lloyds, and my claims settlement record cannot be beat. Fax DM Street Iolaire Enterprises (353) 28 33927 or e-mail: streetiolaire@hotmail.com www.street-iolaire.com CANDY IS DANDYƒ by Ross Mavis Youll catch more flies with sugar than you can with vinegar,Ž was the advice Nana always would give when talking about dealing with people. And, you know, she was right. Most of us respond to sweet talk better than to harsh or bitter comments. Many of us like sweetness in our lives „ and in our diets. Very few people are born without a sweet tooth. The sweetness of sugar is quite seducing. Many centuries ago, sugar was called white goldŽ due to its scarcity and expense at a time when only the rich could afford the substance. The ancient Persians and Arabians cultivated sugar in the 4th century B.C. and it was some 500 years later that it became known to the Western World. Rock-hard cakes or loaves of crystallized coarse sugar then ranged in colour from off-white to light brown. If you were to use any in your tea or coffee, it was necessary to chisel off a chunk or grind it into a powder. Today refined sugar is white and very pure. It is primarily made from sugar cane and sugar beets. Many types of sugar can be found in most of the foods we eat daily. Check the content labels on the foods you buy at the supermarket. Youll see regular sugar (sucrose); fruit sugars (dextrose, fructose and levulose); milk sugar (lactose) and maltose (malt sugar). I have both fond and painful memories of sugar in my childhood. A fond one involves penny candies. A favorite was the small chocolate-covered bears called teddiesŽ. Under the chocolate exterior lurked hard, red, cinnamon candy. Teddies would last almost forever in your mouth if you could discipline yourself to follow mothers instructions and not crunch them. Two of these candies could be had for one penny, giving almost a mornings worth of sucking. Horehound nuggets, jaw-breakers and all-day suckers kept many kids out of their parents hair and out of trouble for hours on end. The pursuit of sugary treats also has less enjoyable flashbacks, like the time I ignored Mums advice to keep clear of the pan of hot toffee she had left to cool on the counter. It was near-paralytic shock I experienced when my inquisitive finger, sneaking over the counter edge, found its way into the pan of molten sugary lava. Less painful but as vivid in my memory was when two childhood friends and I were caught stealing jelly powders from our basement storeroom. It was easy to spot the guilty culprits, for our mouths and hands were bright yellow and orange from fingers dipped into boxes of this sweet dessert mix. This must have been the inspiration for shoplifting dye markers! Sugar does more than just sweeten our food. It helps preserve some items such as candied fruit and citrus peel. It also stabilizes egg whites in meringue, gives a golden-brown colour to baked goods and helps make dough light and tender. What is sold in North America as brown sugarŽ is not raw or unrefined sugar, as some people think. Molasses is added to white sugar to produce either a light or dark brown product. In the Caribbean, raw or unrefined cane sugar is widely available. I believe everyone needs some sweetness in his or her life. If the only way you can get it is from sugar, then God love you and well pass the sugar. Sugar is not the white villain that it has been portrayed to be. (And dont be fooled into thinking that honey or maple sugar is lower in calories because of being a so-called natural product.) Like other things, if used in moderation, sugar can be a simple but wonderful pleasure. If you are looking for a fun way to spend a rainy afternoon with the kids below deck, why not make some candy? Let kids help with the initial measuring out of ingredients and, of course, sampling the end results. Keep some tasks for yourself. Hot and dangerous stovetop cooking, and melted sugar mixes that are akin to molten lava, must be handled carefully by an adult. Most candy making requires the use of a good candy thermometer. However, heres an easy recipe that does not need one. Dark Chocolate Fudge 2 cups miniature marshmallows (or large marshmallows cut into small pieces) 1 pound (450 g) semi-sweet chocolate chips 11 oz (300 ml) tin sweetened condensed milk 1 1/2 teaspoons (7 ml) vanilla extract Combine marshmallows, chocolate chips and condensed milk in a large saucepan and cook over low heat for about 8 minutes, stirring often. When contents are melted and smooth, stir in vanilla and pour into a greased 8-inch (19 cm) square cake pan. Score lightly with a knife and cool until nicely firm. Cut into squares. Remember, boiling syrup is extremely hot and very dangerous. Keep young children clear when boiling liquids on the stove or working with boiling liquids in the galley.

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SEPTEMBER 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 45 Dear Compass , WHEW: eSeaClear! ( Caribbean Compass , August 2008.) Sounds like the Grenada online one-page clearance form meets APIS, although fortunately without requirements and the timing restrictions of APIS. The downside is that all the technological and process issues are the same. There are many cruising yachts and probably even more bareboat charter yachts that do not have computers on board, and some of those who do have computers do not have wireless capability. So, even if an anchorage does have wireless internet (free wireless is scarce and many fee-based services are quite costly, if used only to access eSeaClear), many yachts will have to find an internet café at a cost of EC$5 to EC$10 per visit. That doesnt sound like much but it adds up when you consider a visit for clearing in and clearing out of each country. And what if the internet goes down? Not an uncommon occurrence in many of these islands. Am I reading this correctly to understand that there will be computers in the Customs offices for use by yachtsmen to update their eSeaClear notification? In the dusty commercial Customs offices of Hillsborough, Carriacou, and Glanvilia (Prince Rupert Bay), Dominica? And in the already crowded office at Rodney Bay? It seems to me that allowing people to update their notification at the Customs office will take even longer than completing the paperwork by hand. In the many years we have been clearing in and out of these countries, it rarely takes more than five minutes to fill in the forms. This is a two-time occurrence per visit (once upon entry, once when leaving) and is not a big deal if the Customs and Immigration personnel are at their stations. The Grenada one-page form does nothing to alleviate this problem. We usually spend more time than that waiting in line for an available officer, either because there are others ahead of us or because the officer is at lunch or watching cricket on TV, or the office isnt even open! And what about the varying processes these countries use „ different forms for all countries and even different steps for clearing in and out within the same country? And when I clear out, how do I get from eSeaClear a paper copy to take to my next port, especially if that country is not yet online with eSeaClear and how do I keep track of which ports are accepting eSeaClear notification and which are not? And what about a piece of paper to show Customs or the Coast Guard, if they come around checking papers? I hope none of the OECS members spent any money contributing to this system and installing equipment because I doubt that many yachts will make use of it. I dont know anyone who uses the Grenada online onepage form „ its just not worth the extra effort, particularly because it is designed for 8 x 14Ž paper, which very few yachts carry on board. eSeaClear is no different „ of no intrinsicŽ value to the yachtsman. Clear Customs faster and more efficiently so you can start enjoying your visit soonerŽ? This is not apparent to me in the description given. Most probably the megayachts will use eSeaClear, and we all know that the island chain is gearing up for what they believe will be a huge influx of megayachts. It seems to me that resources could have been better spent in streamlining and standardizing the processes already in place, rather than adding a technologically elegant but useless-in-practice solution. Sign me, Concerned Long-Time Cruiser We asked Caribbean Marine Association President, Keats Compton, who along with the Caribbean Customs Law Enforcement Council announced eSeaClear in last months Compass , for clarification, which follows. CC Dear Compass , It appears that our Concerned Long-Time CruiserŽ may have misread the intent of the eSeaClear facility (www.eSeaClear.com) that the CMA/CCLEC partnership is attempting to deliver to our valued yachting customers, so we need to clarify the situation. First and foremost, use of the system is voluntary (i.e. completely optional), and doesnt replace the paper form, should cruisers prefer to use it. St. Lucia is one of two pilot locations (BVI is the other) designed to solicit feedback from users, which will be incorporated into enhancements or improvements by the developers for product roll-out. This is totally unlike APIS, which was imposed „ or attempted to be „ on the industry. We do not compare eSeaClear to APIS, as the former is driven and owned by Customs, the latter by the border control brigades! Secondly, the use of the internet is designed to facilitate voyage-data entry from whatever source chosen by cruisers, prior to departure „ it has been assumed that a significant number of yachtsmen are able to access the internet from a land-based computer. Alternatively, computers will be available at ports of arrival, and the document will be printed there and then, with the copy retained by the captain, for presentation at the next port, wherever that may be, as happens now. Unlike the paper clearance, both entry and departure details are entered at the same time, on the same screen „ a one-time occurrence, not two, as alleged by our writer „ surely this is time saved! In filling the entry on-line, the problem of Customs being out to lunch, or cricket or other diversion will not prevent the Customs from accessing the data, should a cruiser use a cell-phone to alert the Officer on his or her return. Our writer also needs to think dataŽ as opposed to formsŽ. The individual countries can decide on what shape a printed form should take, never mind what appears on the screen, which will be the same at all locations. Additionally, our cruisers only need to create a new voyage notification where crew data hasnt changed „ you cant use your carbon-paper clearance once your return journey has been processed. As more countries adopt eSeaClear, we will notify the trade through the usual channels, including Compass . Computer-based clearance is obligatory at the port of Marin (Martinique), inside of the Customs office , using an unfamiliar French keyboard. We hope to persuade them to adopt eSeaClear, but Martinicans coming to St. Lucia are able to use the facility from the comfort of their homes, and are thrilled at the prospect. The OECS hasnt spent any money on this, and the reach of eSeaClear will ultimately spread beyond the OECS countries. We sincerely hope that the concerns expressed are not an argument for the exclusion of computers from the yachting domain, which would surely be a retrograde step. More feedback is welcome. Keats Compton, President CMA Dear Caribbean Compass , I was visiting the Tobago Cays Marine Park in the St. Vincent Grenadines on Saturday, July 5th. As I was cruising around in the park, I saw a tour operators large catamaran from St. Vincent with more than 50 guests onboard touring all over within the central part of the TCMP boundaries before they came into shore at Salt Whistle Bay, Mayreau. What really got my attention when I arrived in Salt Whistle Bay was the fact that this charter boat was refusing to pay the park rangers the day-use fees for coming in and using the park. Upon further investigation, I realised that it was the captain (who is also one of the tour companys owners) who was refusing to pay, as well as allowing several of his crewmembers to laugh and carry on acting rude to the two park rangers who were politely trying to do their job. Eventually after much ado, which involved yelling and other rude behaviour from the crew of the tour catamaran, as well as a long cell phone call to the TCMP head office, the captain/owner refused to pay their park fees on the grounds that they were not snorkelling in the park and that there were Vincentians onboard. From my discussion with a guest that was on their charter, there was a mix of both local Vincentians who now live abroad and tourists aboard this Carnival weekend party cruise. Also when I talked with the rangers they stated that this was not the first time this tour operator has refused to pay! I think it is completely outrageous that one of the largest tour operators in St. Vincent & the Grenadines can profit off of the utilisation of the Tobago Cays Marine Park and dare give grief to the park rangers by refusing to pay the stated day use fees „ as well as set such a bad example to their guests, other tourists and local tour operators alike. I am not sure what the owners rationale is. Maybe it is because he and some of his guests are Vincentian that he doesnt think they should have to pay, or maybe it was the excuse that they didnt snorkel on Horseshoe Reef? „Continued on page 55 ENGINES(DUTY FREE PRICES)SPARES SERVICE MARINE EQUIPMENTLocated CALLIAQUA, St. Vincent opposite Howards MarineTEL: (784) 457 1806 FAX: (784) 456 1364 E-mail: kpmarine@caribsurf.com P.O. Box 17, Kingstown PAIE LTD Y AMAHA MA R INE DISTRIBUTOR INE DISTRIBUTOR KMRN YAMAHAParts Repairs Service Outboard Engines 2HP-250HP Duty-Free Engines for Yachts McIntyre Bros. Ltd.TRUE BLUE, ST. GEORGES, GRENADA W.I. PHONE: (473) 444 3944/1555 FAX: (473) 444 2899 email: macford@caribsurf.com TOURS & CRUISES CAR & JEEP RENTAL Readers Forum

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SEPTEMBER 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 46Read in Next Months Compass : A Taste of Tasteful St. Kitts Compass Fiction: Excerpts from a Caribbean Sailing Adventure Cruisers Hike Peru ƒ and more! PICK UP! Ahoy, Compass Readers! When in Dominica, pick up your free monthly copy of the Caribbean Compass at any of these locations (advertisers in this issue appear in bold ): ROSEAU AREA: Anchorage Hotel Dive Dominica Evergreen Hotel Fort Young Hotel Garraway Hotel Outdoor World Connie Beach Bar on Mero Beach Yacht Inn Dominica Marine Center Castaway Hotel PORTSMOUTH AREA: Big Papas Restaurant Cobra Tours Purple Turtle Beach Club/Restaurant Sailormans Club Restaurant Cabrits Dive CenterCrossing the channels between Caribbean islands with a favorable tide will make your passage faster and more comfortable. The table below, courtesy Don Street, author of Streets Guides and compiler of Imray-Iolaire charts, which shows the time of the meridian passage (or zenith) of the moon for this and next month, will help you calculate the tides. Water, Don explains, generally tries to run toward the moon. The tide starts running to the east soon after moonrise, continues to run east until about an hour after the moon reaches its zenith (see TIME below) and then runs westward. From just after the moons setting to just after its nadir, the tide runs eastward; and from just after its nadir to soon after its rising, the tide runs westward. Times given are local. Note: the maximum tide is 3 or 4 days after the new and full moons. For more information, see Tides and CurrentsŽ on the back of all Imray Iolaire charts. Fair tides! September 2008 DATE TIME 1 1313 (new) 2 1357 3 1441 4 1527 5 1614 6 1703 7 1724 8 1845 9 1936 10 2026 11 2114 12 2201 13 2247 14 2333 15 0000 (full) 16 0019 17 0107 18 0157 19 0252 20 0350 21 0452 22 0554 23 0655 24 0753 25 0846 26 0936 27 1022 28 1107 29 1151 30 1234 October 2008 DATE TIME 1 1320 2 1407 3 1455 4 1545 5 1636 6 1727 7 1817 8 1905 9 1952 10 2038 11 2123 12 2209 13 2256 14 2347 15 0000 (full) 16 0041 17 0140 18 0243 19 0347 20 0449 21 0549 22 0643 23 0733 24 0820 25 0904 26 0947 27 1030 28 1115 29 1201 (new) 30 1249 31 1338 MERIDIAN PASSAGE OF THE MOONSEPTEMBER & OCTOBER 2008 A Fools Paradise?by Jim McConnHaving logged over 30,000 miles in our 31-foot Southern Cross, the Spanish Stroll , we have finally arrived in Paradise. Or have we? Five years into a boat ride that appears to have evolved into a circumnavigation, Barb and I are in the Caribbean. The word itself has always conjured up visions of beautiful white beaches shaded by coconut trees on pristine little islands. With water the color of a Bombay gin bottle, the soft sounds of steel drums and us lounging in hammocks, it also seemed as far away as the moon. A very peaceful but long 65-day passage from South Africa brought us to Tobago. Wed had plenty of time to study the Doyle guide and were ready for the great food, pan music and rum shacks. Making landfall at Scarborough, we checked in and spent a week cleaning up and replenishing the Spanish Stroll . Scarborough was, as expected, a big town and a bit rough around the edges, but nothing could have dampened our spirits at that time. When ready to see more of the island and checking in with Customs, as instructed, we were surprised to be told we would need to return and get permission before moving again. Okay, not having to bring the boat to Customs the second time, we could take the bus or a cab. It would give us a chance to see the interior of the island! We pulled the anchor and sailed the ten miles to Store Bay at the east end. The blaring rap music from shore in place of the steel drums wed so looked forward to was another sign that things were not going to be as expected. No problem, we cant expect people to play the same music forever just in case we might drop by and want to hear it. The local people, who on first impression didnt seem very friendly, turned out to be just a bit reserved. If we took the initiative by starting a conversation they were not only friendly, but also quite helpful. Just the normal process of getting familiar. We also became friends with several couples on boats. „Continued on next page WHATS ON MY MIND Although the McConns have only visited Tobago, Trinidad and Margarita so far „ a small portion (at the lower right-hand corner of this map) of the Eastern Caribbean „ their complaints are typical of those heard in other parts of the region We pulled into Castara Bayƒ Continuing on through the night would be insane

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SEPTEMBER 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 47 CREW VACANCIES!email: crew@tradewindscruiseclub.comTradeWinds Cruise Club operate a fleet of catamarans across six destinations in the Caribbean. We are the fastest growing charter company, operating TERM CHARTERS, all inclusive, 7 days. We are looking for crew, mainly teams in the form of a Captain and a Chef/Hostess. We prefer couples that are married OR have been living together for at least a year. The nature of the job is such that the better the understanding and teamwork between Captain and Chef the more successful your charters will be. Requirements: Captain with a Skipper's licence. Chef/Hostess with a basic understanding of cooking. Dive master/ instructor for either the Captain and/or Chef is a plus. We offer full training onsite in the Caribbean. This is a FUN job with great earning potential. If you are willing to work hard and have a positive disposition to life this could be your DREAM job. Anyone with an interest is welcome to apply. If you would like more information about this job or send your CV to us, please use this email address: crew@tradewindscruiseclub.comor by mail to: Bequia Marina, P.O.Box 194BQ, Port Elizabeth, Bequia, St Vincent & the Grenadines Tel. St Vincent +784 457 3407 Tel. St Maarten +599 5510550 Join our growing list of on-line subscribers! 12 issues US$29.95, 24 issues US$53.95 Same price, same content „ immediate delivery!www.caribbeancompass.com Really look forward to reading Compass. Thanks for producing such an informative and interesting read! Steve Hunt Antigua „ Continued from previous page Things were looking up until we returned to Scarborough by bus and requested permission to sail to Charlottesville. We were asked how long it would take us. Although located at the northeast corner of the island, only 22 miles away, we were expecting a tough beat straight into the Trades. Having read in the Doyle guide about the many beautiful bays along the way, with good anchorages and great food waiting on shore, we planned to break it into short hops. Considering the time it takes to get to know the people in a new place and that we had been issued a three-month cruising permit, I thought one month was reasonable but only asked for one week. Our request was out of the question. The senior official said with disgust, You just want to stop and find bars to drink beer!Ž Stunned, we asked what a reasonable timeframe might be. He responded one dayŽ, adding that one stop of one to two hours would be reasonable but that we would have to explain any delay on our arrival in Charlottesville. We wouldnt be able to visit any of the places wed read about. Back at the boat we learned that some of our new friends had checked out the same day but with a different official and in the absence of the big shotŽ were given five days to make the same trip. Others intended to just do it anywayŽ. We were determined to reach Charlottesville, but as guests in their country we would follow the rulesŽ. Leaving at the same time as one of the other boats, we found making headway as difficult as expected. We continued on as they turned into Courland Bay where the anchorage and restaurants of Plymouth awaited them. Hours later and only a few miles up the coast we pulled into Castara Bay. Wed had it. Continuing on through the night would be insane. After sleeping, but without getting off the boat, we continued on in the morning. Arriving in Charlottesville we pumped up the dinghy and headed for shore to check in. With chips on all four shoulders we were prepared for the worst. The friendly welcome we received from the officials was nearly as unexpected as the negative one at Scarborough. The local people were charming, although at times I felt as though I must have FREE BEER written on my forehead! We made many friends during our two-week stay. Our mask carved from a calabash by Maurice and our CD of songs played and sung by Squeezy are two new treasured souvenirs added to our collection. Continuing on to Trinidad we once again followed instructions, sailing past all the beautiful bays along the north shore of Tobago. Arriving in Chaguaramas and dropping the hook among at least a hundred boats already at anchor, we could not believe the recklessness of the local skiffs. Launched one after another from a huge dry-storage facility, they would roar through the anchorage at full speed. These were not only the local fishermen but also expensive boats with big outboard motors and whole families on board. As the boats in the anchorage were continuously rocked we wondered where the authorities could be. Were there no laws? When the Coast Guard finally arrived it was in grand style. Half a dozen of them in an open boat with THREE 200-horsepower outboard motors! Roaring full speed through the anchorage they passed our boat, knocking us on our beam ends and completely swamping our dinghy. They would do this every couple of days when coming in for fuel. I must admit this insane behavior was infectious and I was soon speeding around in our dinghy as fast as the little eight-horsepower outboard would push us, and wishing we had a nine-point-eight. We quickly learned that Chaguaramas is a massive boatyard/storage facility. Just south of the hurricane zone, hundreds of yachts are hauled there annually to sit out the dangerous season. When the owners return five or six months later, their boats are all polished or painted and ready to go. Although not a good cruising destination, every service was available so we decided to take advantage and have some upholstery and canvas work done. No bargain, but the work was done well and very quickly. Hauling the boat out of the water, we escaped the speeding skiffs and were able to polish the oil sludge from the hull sides. Our new cruiser friends from Tobago were there and we did manage to have a good time. As soon as the boat went back in the water we were on our way. After two months in Tobago and Trinidad our nerves were shot. We couldnt wait to get to Isla Margarita, Venezuela. Once again reading the Doyle guide, it sounded wonderful and with a name like MargaritaŽ we thought it had to be good. In Trinidad wed been continuously warned of crime. We were advised to stay at least 30 miles offshore when traveling to avoid pirates. It seemed a bit paranoid but this longer route would take us by Los Testigos islands. Like most other boats, we sailed overnight with our lights off and radar on. In Los Testigos, we relaxed for the allowed two days. The officials were very friendly and we had fun with our horrible Spanish. Arriving in Isla Margarita, we joined another hundred boats already at anchor off the large city of Porlamar. Our daughter and son-in-law planned to fly in and spend a week with us, and it looked like the perfect place. We were so glad they hadnt come to Trinidad as originally planned. „Continued on next page At Porlamar, yachts flew their flags at half-mast after a cruiser succumbed to injuries inflicted by a speeding local boat Were on the Web!Caribbean Compasswww.caribbeancompass.com Compass On-Line € Advertisers Directory € Check It Outƒ Tell Your Friends! REMEMBER to tell our advertisers you saw their ad in Compass!

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SEPTEMBER 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 48 „ Continued from previous page Once again, though, we were shocked as the local boats started roaring at full speed through the anchorage. The skiffs were more traditional and made of wood, but they were going just as fast and coming even closer than those in Trinidad. The morning of our third day at Isla Margarita we found our outboard motor had been stolen from our dinghy. Having been warned, wed locked both the dinghy and motor to the yachts stern rail. The lock had been cut. Not satisfied with our motor, they had also taken our oars, leaving us with no way to reach shore. Calling a more locally experienced acquaintance on the VHF radio for advice on how to contact the police triggered an exchange between the long-timers in the anchorage. The gist? One, it was our fault our lock had been cut and our motor stolen because we hadnt lifted the dinghy out of the water, and two, we could report it to the police but there was zero chanceŽ of our getting it back. The topic suddenly changed: a cruising couple in their dinghy had just been run down by one of the speeding local boats. He (the cruiser) was killed. The following day as all the yachts lowered their flags to half mast, dozens of local skiffs, rather than slowing down a bit, terrorized the anchorage. Charging, often two or three at once, full speed at a yacht they would turn only at the last second missing by inches. They were delighted if they could throw water into our dinghies and some made a sport of trying to reach out and touch them as they sped by. This went on from morning till night as the operators grew more daring (intoxicated?) and the police boat sat tied to the dock, never moving. Still dealing with our relatively petty problems, a fellow cruiser generously offered to loan us a pair of oars and we cautiously headed for shore. Halfway in, we realized the thieves had also taken our shoes. With bare feet we found the police and reported our theft. Next we contacted our daughter and, in spite of months of planning, told her not to come to Isla Margarita. We were told that the day of terror had been a holiday and the local people always go crazy on holidays. What special day had stirred up so much insanity? Childrens Day! To our dismay we have found that virtually everyone here has been a victim. One couple we met had gone to shore for a pot-luck. Returning to their boat, they found their liferaft and fenders were missing. The nice guy who brought us the oars had recently been pistol-whipped, tied up and then had the gun held to his head as his boat was ransacked. Outboard motor season is open year round. The attitudes held and comments made by many of the cruisers here are also disturbing. We are shocked by the tendency of some cruisers to blame the victims: thieves cut our lock and stole our property and its our fault because we failed to suspend it from the mast top. Come on, this thinking is as archaic as blaming the woman for her rape because of the clothes she was wearing. Most yachts travel in tandem with lights off while staying far from shore. Making landfall they anchor in large groups, everyone trying to get in the center, then stow all loose gear below and lift their dinghies out of the water before locking themselves in for the night. Their slogan? Lift It and Lock It or Lose ItŽ. Then they tell us its this way everywhereŽ. In the past five years we have visited 20 countries. To our knowledge, its not this way anywhere else. Every place else weve visited, cruisers „ even singlehanders, including females „ roam freely. When cruisers lift their dinghies its usually to keep the bottom clean. Many sleep in their cockpits under the stars. Our best defense is our windlass. Fortunately, we cruisers have the option of taking our homes and money and leaving. The world is full of really great places. Editors note: Although Jim and Barb have admittedly only visited three out of the hundreds of islands in the Caribbean, the unwelcoming attitude of a few Customs officials, boats speeding in crowded anchorages, and dinghy theft are three perennial complaints about Caribbean cruising. Weve asked the Caribbean Safety & Security Net and the Yacht Services Association of Trinidad & Tobago (YSATT) to comment. Their responses follow: Dear Compass , There have been eight crime reports from yachts in Porlamar since the beginning of this year and, while that looks like a crime spree, the increase is due more to cruisers willing to report incidents to the Security Net than a crime spree itself. For whatever reason, there has been extreme reluctance among those who spend time in Porlamar to get the word out „ they believe it tarnishes the reputation of Margarita. However, I have been told many times by many people who have been to Porlamar that what is reported to the Security Net is just the tip of the icebergŽ. They do, however, cover the lock it and lift it or lose itŽ on the VHF net on a regular basis. (Spanish Water, Curaçao, is another anchorage where one must lift the dinghy out of the water in addition to locking up.) Since the Security Net began, Porlamar has had more reports than any other single anchorage, in spite of the reluctance of some cruisers to report. While one may attribute these large numbers to a greater number of visiting yachts (i.e. more yacht daysŽ than any other anchorage), if that logic were valid, we would see an increase in reports for the south coast of Grenada, especially during hurricane season, as well as an increase from Rodney Bay, St. Lucia, particularly during the ARC arrival. While those two locations do see some increase, it is in no way proportionate to what has been the ongoing and consistent case in Porlamar for the past 11 years. With regard to the speeding local boats both in Porlamar and in Chaguaramas, one should also add Rodney Bay to that list, as well as include the tourists on jet skis. The tragic death of the man in Porlamar (he wasnt killed on impact, but died of injuries while on the operating table) was an accident waiting to happen. Every weekend the Porlamar anchorage becomes a racetrack for local teenagers, apparently in their fathers boats. There have been injuries in Chaguaramas due to speeding local boats but thankfully no deaths „ yet. The authorities in St. Lucia have been ignoring the high-speed watercraft problem for years. Our yacht was hit last year in Rodney Bay by an out-of-control jet-ski. Unfortunately, we were only one of several who were hit this past season. A friend of ours narrowly escaped being run over by a jet-ski while cleaning his anchor rode. There have already been injuries and hospital visits and stitches to close wounds. Do we need to wait for a death to make an issue of it? There has been little done by local authorities to deal with these problems. The Porlamar police put a night patrol boat in the water after the liferaft was stolen, but reports coming back to me indicate it was very conspicuous for three or four days and then no longer seen. As far as the death of the cruiser is concerned, there is apparently a continuing investigation but that is targeted to the specific incident, not speeding boats in general. Until local authorities take responsibility for criminal activity and dangerous behavior affecting the tourists who visit their anchorages, these sorts of incidents are going to continue, and may well escalate, as evidenced by the increase in speeding in Porlamar during the several days following the incident. Melodye Pompa S/Y Second Millennium for the Caribbean Safety and Security Net SSB 8104.0 at 1215 UTC www.safetyandsecuritynet.com Dear Compass , YSATT knows only too well the situation with the boats speeding in Chaguaramas Bay and we continue to alert the relevant authorities whenever it is brought to our attention. Unfortunately, there are no laws pertaining directly to the leisure marine industry and specifically to no wakeŽ zones. The leisure marine industry, which includes yachting, currently gets lumped under Shipping.Ž With regard to the problems that this specific cruiser had with Customs in Tobago, we did contact the Communications Unit of Customs & Excise and they have forwarded this response: The Customs and Excise Division is currently investigating allegations concerning the negative attitudes of certain Customs Officers highlighted in the letters of complaint. The Division has also embarked on a Customer Service training programme as we seek to improve the overall service of the Division. The Customs and Excise Division remains committed to facilitating legitimate trade to support the economic growth and development of Trinidad and Tobago.Ž Regards, Gina Hatt-Carvalho, Manager Yacht Services Association of Trinidad & Tobago

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SEPTEMBER 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 49 MONOHULL Amel 54 2007 Like New St Maarten 849 000 € Amel Super Maramu 53 1998 Florida 339 000 US $ Alubat Ovni 435 2006 Martinique 299 000 € Sun Magic 44 1989 Martinique 98 000 € CATAMARANS Lagoon 410 2004 Martinique 260 000 € Lagoon 410 1999 Martinique 165 000 € Graal 42 1990 Martinique 135 000 € Tobago 35 1996 Martinique 127 000 € Halberg Rassy 53 2004 Full Option Superb Guadeloupe 700 000 € PRIVILEGE 42 1995 4 Cabins Good Condition Martinique 165 000 €ST. THOMAS YACHT SALESCompass Point Marina, 6300 Est. Frydenhoj, Suite 28, St. Thomas, U.S.V.I. 00802 Tel: (340) 779-1660 Fax: (340) 779-2779 yachts@islands.vi Sail37 2001 Bavaria Sloop, 3 strms, Yanmar diesel $ 79,500 40 1986 Hunter Legend roomy, aft cockpit $ 69,000 40 1987 ODay Sloop, Westerbeke, 2 strms $ 60,000 43 1995 Hunter 430, stepped transom, 2 strms $119,000 Power14 2006 Aquascan Jetboat, 160HP Yamaha $ 34,900 31 1999 Sea Ray Sundancer, new engines, 2005 $ 79,900 32 1996 Carver 325, twin crusaders great condition $ 99,000 38 1999 Sea Ray Sundancer, mercruisers, 18 kts, $167,000Call, fax or visit our website for a complete list of boats for sale www.stthomasyachts.com 44 1982 Ta Chiao CT $89,900 33 1973 Pearson 10M Sloop, $33,500An Encounter in an E-Mail Café in Venezuelaby Bernie KatchorHere Yvonne and I are, two ancient gringos. We have driven our dinghy ashore and locked it to the dock with a chain that goes through the outboard and gas tank, and then into a large padlock. Everyone is a thief in Venezuela,Ž everyone tells us. (We wonder if the people who tell us this are thieves themselves.) We march to an internet café whose location is explained to Yvonne, who actually understands Spanish. (After seven years in Spanish-speaking countries I speak seven Spanish words, but I know the essential hand motions.) Spanish keyboards are arranged differently, but in our notebook we have written how to get an @ sign and other essentials that are necessary to do e-mail in Venezuela. At the all computers full but only one dollar an hourŽ internet café, many of the youngsters around us seemed to be chatting in English. We acknowledged them, then concentrated on our e-mails pouring in. Our children tell us in the e-mails we just opened, You are in a dangerous country. You are far too old for this stupidity. You will get diarrhoea, cysts in your liver, robbed, raped or even killed. Get out now! All your sensible friends are rocking in chairs, walking dogs, reading newspapers, and doing that which is the maximum any person of your age should do. Especially note: all your friends delight in babysitting and are there to wipe noses and change diapers of grandchildren. What is wrong with you?Ž Did you know the Australian government, who are much wiser than you two are, actually forbids Australians travel to where you are right now? Why, they may even arrest you there and then you can never come home. After all, you have been gone for 15 years now. Come home. I speak for the whole family; we have discussed the matter at length. Your loving daughter.Ž Wow! What an e-mail! And one on a similar vein is waiting for us every time we find a café to view e-mails, at whatever port we sail into. Our sailing travels are rewarding, peaceful, exhilarating and enjoyable, as well as exasperating. Is that not what sailing is about? Surely, if you want things to be like they are at home you must stay there and patiently wait to die, fiddling your time away. Sailing gives us sights and experiences to wonder at, be it deserted islands or magnificent snow-capped mountains that can be seen from our sailboat. There are wonderful sailing canoes hewn from a tree, or dilapidated concrete fishing boats with a tribe of marineros grinning as they hand over lobster. Then there are leaping dolphin at play and the green flash at sunset. Off the sailboat for a day, we travel on old buses and hang onto trucks; we even travel on donkeys and most often on foot to see the sights unavailable from the boat. Racing up a dirt track with 350 switchbacks to see spectacular mountain views and colourfully dressed indigenous peoples working or playing in the fields was one unforgettable land experience. All these are experiences we never believed we would actually have, and we pinch ourselves every time we sail into a new experience to ensure it is really happening and we have not ascended to wherever it is old Australians go. And perhaps best of all, the people we meet are curious about us and many look upon us with the reverence people in these dangerousŽ lands give elders. Look what my mum wrote. Oh, Christ!Ž The desperate cry comes from a teenager reading her e-mails at a computer nearby. It startles us out of our concentration on composing a delicate but firm reply to our worrying babies of 35 and 40 years old. She begins to read aloud and other kids gather to see if this mum is as paranoid as theirs. My child, you are too much worry and your father says come home immediately as your money must have run out and it is so dangerous over there, you do not realize how dangerous...Ž Here the reader stopped as everyone was laughing. Come over here,Ž I cried as I joined the merriment. Read what my children say.Ž One came and read aloud our latest e-mail. After the laughter died and the amazement „ no, the respect „ expressed about the fact that we had been traveling for 15 years, others read out their similar e-mails. After laughing at the many e-mails from loved ones, we all abandoned the café and headed off together for a drink. Seated in a little Venezuelan beer house with our six-cent home-brewed beers, we continued laughing about the reaction of people left behind to our collective adventure. I summed it up after about the third beer: These people at home feel safe at home, saying that the evil you know is better than the one you do not.Ž As our grand, one-dollar feast arrived, many questions came from the dozen kids, aged from 17 to 27, gathered at our long table. One asked our opinion: What can I tell my parents? I am taking a job here for a year at ten US dollars per week. They cannot understand why, and tell me if I really loved them I would come home and get a real job.Ž Others had similar problems with doting parents. After many such conversations, all of which were followed by laughter and comments, one child turned to me: Youre old „ tell us what to say to old parents like you that worry so much they actually spoil our travel enjoyment.Ž „Continued on next page ALL ASHOREƒ You have been gone for 15 years now. Come home

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SEPTEMBER 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 50 „ Continued from previous page Cheeky bastard,Ž I reply, I am only 67 years young!Ž Wow, my father is 41,Ž one said. Anothers father was 53 and a thirds 50 or thereabouts, as far as he could remember. How come you are so old and travel?Ž Why shouldnt I travel?Ž was my reply. Now, what to tell your parents? Tell them about all the wonderful friends from all nations you travel with, to assure them you are safe with this crowd. Tell them a friend has a special pump to remove all matter from drinking water so you can never get cysts or diarrhoea. Tell them all sorts of lies to make them feel better, because they really believe you are in danger. Newspapers only tell of the violence in Venezuela, not about the wonderful town and beaches where we now are „ 500 miles from Caracas. Always rebut their examples of how endangered you are. Then, and this is important, invite them to come and travel with you, but as you travel.Ž No! No!Ž they cried in unison, Our parents would spoil our travels.Ž Mine would make me shower every day,Ž one young boy ventured. Dont worry, people who write the sort of amazing e-mails that we have just read will never travel as we do,Ž I told them, so you are safe when you invite them to rough it. They will always have something that, for the moment (and forever I might add), will prevent them from joining you. So be brave, and insist they come on over to see how wonderful and safe it is. Most of them will never come. Even if they do, they may do a day tour at Angel Falls and then cross Venezuela off their list, becoming an authority on Venezuela after returning home. We all know there are better, more peaceful waterfalls where you can be alone to wonder and not crowded in with complaining tourists. We, too, all know of trails and islands where there is nothing „ and that is the beauty of it all. Never fear. Really insist your parents come. I guarantee they will not come to travel as you do,Ž I concluded, lifting my home-brew beer high and calling, Salud.Ž Yvonne added, But if on the off chance they do arrive „ having agreed to travel as you do, on your terms, with no complaints „ you will all really learn to respect and not ridicule each other, as you and your parents do at this moment.Ž A long time ago, Yvonne and I went to Africa. Her parents, who were as old as we are now, showed an interest. We wrote a list of conditions and they agreed. Yvonnes mother, at 93 years, still talks about that trip. Twenty-three hours on a bus with a box of chickens on her lap, having to get off the bus and pee alongside everybody else, climbing Kilimanjaro „ new experiences she would never had moving from one five-star hotel to another. Now Yvonnes mother understands more than our children do why we travel as we do. How is that for good advice? There was a silence as all this sunk in. Fifteen yearsƒ amazing,Ž one young traveler murmured, I have been gone for two months and I thought that a long time to travel. I was starting to feel obligated to go home to do real stuff, even though with the little I have spent so far I could continue for another six months.Ž The only advantage of being old,Ž I continued, enjoying myself, is that you have time. But this is your time and it is yours to spend how you want to spend it, not how others feel you must.Ž But they get so upset and are so worried; it makes me so sad. How would you feel if your parents said that you obviously must really hate them to want to remain in South America? I do not hate my parents.Ž The young girl was emotional and wiped tears from her eyes. But I do not want to go home yet,Ž she added as she looked to us for an answer. Write your parents,Ž I suggested, challenging them for saying you must hate them „ thats an absurd statement. Tell them you have not finished your travels and if you came home you could not afford to return to complete your South American journey. Then say you do miss them very much and if they would buy you a 14-day return fare you would love to come to visit. (Do not get a longer timed fare if you really want to continue travelling.) And give them an alternative, for example, that if your mother came here you would gladly spend a week or so at a dreadful beach resort just to be with her. Otherwise it is travel on your terms. How does that sound?Ž I concluded. When my head clears, Ill e-mail my mother,Ž she said. So will I,Ž a couple of others agreed. The six-cent beers were going down fast, lubricating my thoughts. We would love all your e-mail addresses and will give you ours. We send a newsletter out every once in a while. And let us know when you change your e-mail address „ you youngsters change e-mails more often than you change your underpants. We really want to hear from you in 20 years time to see how you are handling your kids. Well be 87 by then, but well still want to know. Its time for us oldies to find our dinghy and return to our beloved home and hit the sack. We have a young guy calling in his canoe at six tomorrow morning to take us bird watching. We will bid you all goodnight and we hope we have helped you. Above all, love your parents for what they are. It is harder to change the older you get. Look at us. We will still be travelling at 80, I bet, but will you all? Goodnight and good luck.Ž Even though our bones creak too much, the young people we meet on our travels keep us young in thought and are an inspiration. Travel really is the people you meet, although the scenery isnt too bad either. DONT LEAVE PORT WITHOUT IT

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SEPTEMBER 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 51 Caribbean Compass Market Place SAILMAKING, RIGGING, ELECTRONICS Grenada Marine € Spice Island Marine Tel/Fax (473) 439-4495 turbsail@spiceisle.com TechNick Ltd.Engineering, fabrication and welding. Fabrication and repair of stainless steel and aluminium items. Nick Williams, Manager Tel: (473) 536-1560/435-7887 S.I.M.S. Boatyard, True Blue, Grenada technick@spiceisle.com Cruising Rally e-mail: contact@transcaraibes.com www.transcaraibes.com Tel: + 590 (0) 690 494 590 TRANSCARAIBES 2009Guadeloupe to Cuba continued on next page UNIQUE IN DOMINICA Roseau & Portsmouth Tel: 767-448-2705 Fax: 767-448-7701Dockmaster Tel: 767-275-2851 VHF: 16info@dominicamarinecenter.com www.dominicamarinecenter.com The Dominica Marine Center is the home of the Dominica Yacht Club and your center for: € Yacht Mooring Anchorage € Grocery Store & Provisioning € Bakery (Sukies Bread Company) € Water at dock € Fuel (Unleaded / Diesel) € Ice € Yacht Chandlery agents Budget Marine /Sea Choice Products Mercury Marine / Yanmar Marine € LP Gas (propane) refills € Showers & Toilets (WC) € Garbage Disposal € Security € Telephone & Fax € Mobile Phone Rental / SIM Top Up € Laundry WiFi Internet € Beach Bar € Nearby Restaurants € Taxi & Tour Operators € Whale Watching & Sport Fishing € Light Engine and Boat Repair € Customs / Immigration Clearance Information € Visa / Master Card accepted PORTHOLE RESTAURANT & BAR& Shoreline Mini-MarketA friendly atmosphere where you can sit and meet people.Admiralty Bay, Bequia Noelina & Lennox Taylor welcome you! VHF CH68 Phone (784) 458-3458 We serve breakfast, lunch and dinner MID ATLANTIC YACHT SERVICESPT-9900-144 HORTA / FAIAL, AZORESProviding all vital services to Trans-Atlantic Yachts! Incl. Chandlery, Charts, Pilots, Rigging EU-VAT (14%) importation Duty free fuel (+10.000lt)TEL +351 292 391616 FAX +351 292 391656 mays@mail.telepac.pt www.midatlanticyachtservices.com clippers-ship@wanadoo.frTel: (0) 596 71 41 61 Fax: (0) 596 71 77 Shipchandler, Artimer Le Marin, Martinique CARRIACOU REAL ESTATELand and houses for sale For full details see our website: www.islandvillas.com or contact Carolyn Alexander atDown Island Ltd e-mail: islander@caribsurf.comTel: (473) 443 8182 Fax: (473) 443 8290We also handle Villa Rentals & Property Management on Carriacou TEAK & HARDWOOD MARINE PLY FINISHING PRODUCTS C a r i b b e a n W o o d s Bequia, St. Vincent Phone: 1 (784) 457-3000 caribwoods@vincysurf.com TE A K & H A RDWOO D M A R IN E PL Y FINISHING P R ODUC T S C a r i b b b b b b b e b e b e a n W o W o W W o W o d s Be q uia, St. Vincen t Phone: 1 (784) 457-3000 caribwoods@vinc y surf.com

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SEPTEMBER 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 52 Packages Pick – up call: + (599) 553-3850 / + (590) 690-222473 Int. 001-3057042314 E-mail: ericb@megatropic.comCIRExpress COURIER SERVICES St. Maarten/ St. Martin, collect and deliver door to door Caribbean Compass Market Place continued on next page Independent Boatyard, St. Thomas, VI 340-774-3175 Office € 340-513-3147 Cell yachts@viaccess.net yachts@vipowernet.netwww.maritimeyachtsales.com Voiles AssistanceDidier and MariaLE MARIN/MARTINIQUESails & Canvas (repairs & fabrication) located at Carenantilles dockyardOpen Monday to Friday 8-12am 2-6pm Saturday by appointment tel/fax: (596) 596 74 88 32 e-mail: didier-et-maria@wanadoo.fr International Yacht Broker Bateaux Neufs et OccasionReprésentant JEANNEAU, LAGOON, Fountaine PAJOTPort de plaisance, 97 290 Le MARIN, Martinique, FWI Tél: + 596 (0)596 74 74 37 Cell: + 596 (0)696 29 71 14 www.petit-breton-antilles.fr pbavente@orange.fr LE MARIN, MARTINIQUE € GRENADAwww.caraibe-greement.fr cgmar@wanadoo.frPhone: +(596) 596 74 8033 Cell: (596) 696 27 66 05 R I G G I N GS H I P C H A N D L E R

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SEPTEMBER 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 53 THIS COULD BE YOUR MARKET PLACE AD Book it now: tom@caribbeancompass.comor contact your local island agent Marine Distributors www.IslandWaterWorld.com sales@IslandWaterWorld.com St Thomas, St Maarten, St Lucia, Grenada P: 599-544-5310 F: 599-544-3299 Caribbean Compass Market Place Bequia, Admiralty BayWILFRED DEDERER

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SEPTEMBER 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 54 Admiral Yacht Insurance UK 44 B & C Fuel Dock Petite Martinique 39 Bahia Redonda Marina Venezuela 18 Barefoot Yacht Charters St. Vincent 27 Bequia Marina Bequia 41 Boat Shed Brokers Tortola 50 Boater's Enterprise Trinidad 37 Bogles Round House Carriacou 43 Budget Marine Sint Maarten 2 BVI Yacht Sales Tortola 49 Camper & Nicholsons Grenada 17 Caraibe Greement Martinique 10 Caraibe Yachts Guadeloupe 49 Carene Shop Martinique 20 Cooper Marine USA 50 Corea's Food Store Mustique Mustique 42 Curaçao Marine Curaçao 6 Dockwise Yacht Transport Sarl Martinique 12 Dopco Travel Grenada 8 Doyle Offshore Sails Tortola 3 Doyle's Guides Caribbean 38 Echo Marine Jotun Special Trinidad 29 Errol Flynn Marina Jamaica 15 Food Fair Grenada 43 Fortress Marine St. Kitts 23 Fred Marine Guadeloupe 22 Gourmet Foods St. Vincent 42 Grenada Marine Grenada 8 Grenada Sailing Festival Grenada 13 Grenadines Sails Bequia 39 Iolaire Enterprises UK 44 Island Water World Sint Maarten 56 Johnson Hardware St. Lucia 25 Jones Maritime St. Croix 45 KP Marine St. Vincent 45 Lagoon Marina Hotel St. Vincent 30 Lagoonieville Books Tortola 38 Le Phare Bleu Grenada 24 LIAT Caribbean 55 Lulley's Tackle Bequia 41 Maranne's Ice Cream Bequia 43 McIntyre Bros. Ltd Grenada 45 Navimca Venezuela 28 Northern Lights Generators Tortola 16 Peake Yacht Brokerage Trinidad 48 Perkins Engines Tortola 11 Petit St. Vincent PSV 36 Ponton du Bakoua Martinique 20 Prickly Bay Marina Grenada 40 Renaissance Marina Aruba 14 Santa Barbara Resorts Curaçao 7 Sea Services Martinique 21 Silver Diving Carriacou 31 Simpson Bay Marina St. Maarten 29 Soper's Hole Marina Tortola 13 Spice Island Marine Grenada 9 St. Maarten Sails St. Maarten 5 St. Thomas Yacht Sales St. Thomas 49 Superwind Germany 19 SVG Air St. Vincent 26 Tikal Arts & Crafts Grenada 44 Trade Winds Cruising Bequia 47 Turbulence Sails Grenada 9 Tyrrel Bay Yacht Haulout Carriacou 40 Vemasca Venezuela 19 Virgin Gorda Yacht Harbour Virgin Gorda 30 Wallilabou Anchorage St. Vincent 31 Xanadu Marine Venezuela 18 ADVERTISERS INDEX ADVERTISER LOCATION PG# ADVERTISER LOCATION PG# ADVERTISER LOCATION PG# ADVERTISER LOCATION PG# CLASSIFIEDS BOATS FOR SALE URGENT SALE VENUS 46, 1984 KETCH fiberglass, gc, new engine, very well equipped, excellent live aboard and cruiser. Price reduced from US$199,000 to US$169,000 ONO for a fast sale. Lying St Lucia. For more info and pictures please e-mail venus46@live.com or phone +596696907429. 1986 Beneteau 51 Nice condition, plenty of new upgrades, ready to sail, located Palm Island, SVG. Info on www.artandsea.com. Tel: (784) 458-8829 E-mail: palmdoc@vincysurf.com 56ft MIKADO KETCH 1975 Perkins 106hp Interior/exterior refit Nov. 07, 4 dbl cabins, good sails, lying in Martinique 145,000 Euros E-mail d.bouquet@asericharter.com FAMOUS POTATOES 2005 Admiral 38 Catamaran. For Sale. You can follow her adventure now atweb.mac.com/famouspotatoes2DONZI 32ZF, DEC. 2007 Donzi 32ZF, Dec. 2007, like new, used only 6 months, stored on boat lift, located in St. Maarten. Open center console with open bow, custom made benches, seats for 12, incl. snorkeling-, floatingand fishing gear, 2x Verado 250 hp, max speed 55 mph, cruising speed 30-35 mph, 147 hours. For immediate sale US 125.000 E-mail: WebAd@gmx.comERICSON 38 Sailboat , good hull, good rig and sails, good engine. Needs interior work. Lying Tortola, BVI US$15,000 OBO Tel (284) 540-1325 1975 GERMAN FRERS 39 FT , 2 sets racing sails, US 61.000 St.Lucia duty paid. Other boats for sale:1981 Cape Dory 30, US 39.000, St.Lucia duty paid,2002 Oceanis 36, 2 cabin, US 94.000, 1975 German Frers 39ft, 2 sets racing sails, US 61.000 St.Lucia duty paid, 2000 Dehler 41CR, 3 cabin, US 255.000, 2001 Beneteau 50, 3 cabin, US 199.000, 2000 Catana 471, 4 cabin, 460.000 Euros, 1994 Lagoon 47, 4 cabin, US 259.000, Tel (758) 452-8531 E-mail destsll@candw.lc LAGOON 380 2003 Owner sells upgraded excellent condition, 4 double cabin /2bath. Low time Yanmar. Solar + Wind generator + large battery bank. Must see in Guadeloupe. Call and well send you a private aircraft to come see the boat E-mail: airtropical@yahoo.com 170.000 £. Tel (767) 4404403. Two Power Catamarans, One Sail Boat, Kayaking Business for sale Tel 473 440-3678 / 407-1147starwindsailing@caribsurf.com VITECH 49 TS SPORT CRUISER Must Sell.Offers Accepted. Engines need work. On dry dock at Ottley Hall Phone 784 488 8414 E-mail: elizabeth@vincysurf.com 42' POST SPORTSFISH (2) 671 Detroit Diesel Engines Gen. Set, MANY extras. $100,000 US or Best Offer Barbados (246) 258-1052 / (246) 230-3515 32' TAHITIANA STEEL HULL, junk rigged schooner in Colon, Panama. GPS, EPIRB, liferaft, 40hp BMC diesel, wind-vane self-steering, propane cooker and much more... US$5,000 OBO. chelsea@amurimina.com 26 WOODEN GAFF CUTTER,2006 An award winning classic design by Mark Smaalders.Traditional carvel hull mahogany on pine. New monitor windvane, SS 6mm anchor chain, 3 anchors. All gear less than 2 years old!Cozy cream painted/varnished mahogany interior.Unique little yacht with a humble price tag! Lying St.Maarten. US$70K. For more info E-mail lundmartin@yahoo.com Tel 00599 5815603. 1984 Andrew Burke designed 33 ft ex racer. Located Barbados Bds $15,000. E-mail rincon@caribsurf.com Tel (246) 231 0464. SANTA CRUZ 28, 1980 Twin Volvo TA-MD40s, New parts, just overhauled, fuel efficient and ready for work. US$ 39,700 Tel: (767) 275-2851 E-mail info@dominicamarinecenter.com Heritage WI 46´ -77 GPR Classic CC. Cutter.Great liveaboard. Lying in Grenada.US$ 75000:or try an offer. E-mail: boc@hotelhenan.infoBOATS FOR SALE IN TRINIDAD Tel (868) 739-6449 www.crackajacksailing.net MISC. FOR SALE SELDEN RIG for VINDÖ 35, deck stepped, boom, spreaders, lights, winches (has been changed for upgrade) ask for details Tel (758) 452-8531 E-mail destsll@candw.lc 2003 Mercury 250hp E.F.I. complete with stainless steel propeller and controls. Excellent condition / low hours. EC. $25,000. negotiable. Contact: (473) 444 2220 (473) 409 1430MASTS TURBULENCE GRENADA One new Selden 17m inmast furler/ 2 spreader sets/ steps suitable for monohull. Tel (473) 439-4495/415-8271 E-mail turbsail@spiceisle.com CHARTER COMPANY CLEARANCE SALE: Selden mast with rigging for 40 footer, winches, engine parts, windlass, diesel stove, sails, and lots more ask for complete list E-mail destsll@candw.lc Tel (758) 452-8531 BUSINESS FOR SALE You own a boat, you live in the Caribbean, you like to have income? Buy our business and director license for day charter in St. Maarten and you are ready for the next season. US 15,000 E-mail: WebAd@gmx.com BRAND NEW, UNUSED 24 AB VST RIB for sale, no engine $21,500, very open to offers. Located BVI. adam@boatshedbvi.com DAY CHARTER BUSINESS on St. Maarten for sale. This is a great opportunity! E-mail: WebAd@gmx.com PROPERTY FOR SALE FRIENDSHIP BAY, BEQUIA Lovely 1250 sq ft. cottage, 100 yards from beach. 2 master bedrooms, 1 guest bedroom, full kitchen, laundry, level with road no stairs! 12,558 sq ft of land, fenced with mature fruit trees. US$320,000, Term rental available. E-mail jocelyne.gautier@wanadoo.fr CARRIACOU, ONE ACRE LOTS and multi acre tracts. Great views overlooking Southern Grenadines and Tyrrel Bay www.caribtrace.com BEQUIA PROPERTIES A classic Belmont villa in 1 acre 2,000,000US, The Village Apartments Business 1,890,000US, Admiralty Bay 900,000US, Spring Villa 1,750,000US LowerBay 1.600,000US, Friendship 320,000US, Moonhole 750,000US, relax & enjoy Bequia life. Tel (784) 455 0969 E-mail grenadinevillas@mac.com www.grenadinevillas.com BEQUIA , Lower Bay, Bells Point, House and Land. Serious buyers only. Sale by owner. Call (784) 456 4963 after 6pm. E-mail lulleym@vincysurf.com BEQUIA HOUSE FOR RENT 2 bedroom/2 bath, furnished, hot water, on road to Mt. Pleasant, private, fruit trees, beautiful view, long/ short term. Wanda Leslie Tel (784) 455-7580 or Willis Gooding (604) 466-9953 BEQUIA PROPERTY FOR LEASE Waterfront house with dock Admiralty Bay. 1/2 acre of land at Level. 6,000 square feet in Hamilton. Tel (784) 458-3942E-mail: Daffodil_harris @ yahoo.com SERVICES FED UP WITH RISING MORTGAGES … increased fuel costs … recession & inflation? Chill out, retireŽ to the Caribbean, live on a boat and still earn a living! (not chartering) Boat based supply Co. for sale suit couple or family E-mail caribmen_4060@yahoo.co.uk PUERTO LA CRUZ, VENZ. INSURANCE SURVEYS, electrical problems and yacht deliveries. Tel Cris Robinson (58) 416-3824187 E-mail crobinson@telcel.net.ve BEQUIA HOMEMADE BREADS & Cakes made fresh every day! Wholewheat, multigrain, banana bread, herbs & flax, butter crescents. To place order Tel (784) 4573527/433-3008 E-mail bequiasweetiepie@yahoo.com Orders are delivered FREE WATERMAKERS Complete systems, membranes, spares and service available at Curacao and Puerto La Cruz, Venezuela. Check our prices at www.watercraftwatermaker.com In PLC Tel (58) 416-3824187 AFRICAN SAFARI EXPERINCE for your next holiday. www.hazeyview.com WANTED OPPORTUNITY TO HELP DEVELOP SMALL ARTISTS' COLONY with gallery, workshops, pottery, cottages in progress. Suit energetic (early retired?) craftsman/ woman or artist with wood/stone building skills a plus. Partnership in gallery or workshop and sales space etc. in trade for start-up help. Beautiful rainforest, 1 mile to beach. USVI, needs US Visa, greencard or citizenship E-mail raintree.arts@gmail.comBVI SAILING CHARTER COMPANY looking for computer literate office/administrator with marketing and graphic design skills. Please email resume to charters@bviyc.com RIGGING TECHNICIAN with experience needed for Turbulence Sails Prickly Bay location Tel (473) 439-4495 E-mail Richard.turbulence@spiceisle.comTORTOLA ARAGORNS STUDIO looking for 2 employees.Welder/Workshop manager and shop assistant required at our busy Art Studio in Trellis Bay, BVI.Ideal candidates are a couple with artistic inclination living on their own boat and looking for shore side employment in a US$ economy. Still interested to hear from a lone welder! Info contact Aragorn Tel (284) 495-1849 E-mail dreadeye@surfbvi.com MARINA MANAGER We are looking for an entrepreneur to take over (Management Contract) a profitable bar and restaurant in our 3 year old marina. We have a great location and enjoy tax advantages as well as a captive customer base. The operation is profitable but not as profitable as it should be, there are numerous opportunities to generate more business and reduce costs. The marina is also growing which will provide a larger customer base. Candidates should have food service experience and management skills. E-mail Russ@procapi.com Extra Income seekers!!! Sailors, Beachbums & Surfers! Stop looking..... .......YOU found it! No selling, No meetings, No Prospecting.www.wealthsooncome.com CLASSIFIED ADS EC$1/US 40¢ per word … include name, address and numbers in count. Line drawings/photos accompanying classifieds are EC$20/US$8. KEEP THE ISLANDS BEAUTIFULƒDispose of your garbage properly!

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SEPTEMBER 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 55 ƒReaders' Forum„ Continued from page 45 But last I checked, Salt Whistle Bay was within the park boundaries and I did see all of their guests were swimming in the water and enjoying the beauty that the TCMP is renowned for. Maybe they dont agree with the fee system or the laws and regulations which have now finally been put in place to manage the park. What I want to know is why does this company refuse to pay, when all of the other Grenadines watertaxis, dive operators and day tour companies which are locally owned and operated pay their fees and respect the park rangers? Despite the fact that the TCMP still has a long way to go in terms of a perfectly managed and run marine park, I can say from my experiences there that it is finally getting off the ground in terms of management, education, enforcement and stopping illegal activities, increased fish abundances and decreases in litter. We have all been asking for years for proper marine management and enforcement within the TCMP and rangers are just doing their job! Please support them, follow the laws and report violators! A Supporter of the Tobago Cays Marine Park Dear Supporter of TCMP, We can see why there might be some confusion. The official TCMP website (www.tobagocays.com) says, The entry fee only applies for access to the protection zone (i.e. the Tobago Cays themselves). Visitors to Mayreau and local residents of that island are not required to pay the entry fee.Ž The island of Mayreau is technically within the greater park boundaries, but not in the protection zone. For clarification, we spoke to the TCMPs Education Coordinator, Lesroy Noel, who explained to us that access to the protection zoneŽ means just that: access. It is not limited to anchoring or overnighting, but also includes cruising through on sightseeing tours. The TCMP website lists the parks various fees, and there is provision for a very reasonable reduced fee for local excursions, presumably to encourage Vincentians (a surprising number of whom have never been there) to visit their only National Park. Compass attempted to contact the owner/skipper of the tour company in question, but he was out of the country up until press time. It has been a long and hard fight to get the Tobago Cays Marine Park where it is today: an increasingly healthy marine resource protected by competent and concerned Vincentians. We urge everyone to support it and respect those who are protecting it. CC Dear Compass Readers, We want to hear from YOU! Please include your name, boat name or address, and a way we can contact you (preferably by e-mail) if clarification is required. We do not publish individual consumer complaints or individual regatta results complaints. (Kudos are okay!) We do not publish anonymous letters; however, your name may be withheld from print at your request. Letters may be edited for length, clarity and fair play. Send your letters to: sally@caribbeancompass.com or fax (784) 457-3410 or Compass Publishing Ltd. Readers Forum Box 175BQ Bequia St. Vincent & the Grenadines

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Published by Compass Publishing Limited, St. Vincent & the Grenadines, and printed by Trinidad Publishing Company Limited