Citation
Caribbean Compass

Material Information

Title:
Caribbean Compass the Caribbean's monthly look at sea & shore
Place of Publication:
Bequia St. Vincent and the Grenadines
Publisher:
Compass Pub.
Publication Date:
Copyright Date:
2009
Frequency:
Monthly
regular
Language:
English
Physical Description:
v. : ill. ; 35 cm.

Subjects

Subjects / Keywords:
Boats and boating -- Periodicals -- Caribbean Area ( lcsh )
Yachting -- Periodicals -- Caribbean Area ( lcsh )
Genre:
serial ( sobekcm )
periodical ( marcgt )
Spatial Coverage:
Saint Vincent and the Grenadines

Record Information

Source Institution:
University of Florida
Holding Location:
University of Florida
Rights Management:
Copyright Compass Pub. Permission granted to University of Florida to digitize and display this item for non-profit research and educational purposes. Any reuse of this item in excess of fair use or other copyright exemptions requires permission of the copyright holder.
Resource Identifier:
54085008 ( OCLC )
1605-1998 ( ISSN )

Downloads

This item has the following downloads:


Full Text














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PROPANE DETECTOR
WITH SOLENOID VALVE

A single channel
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* Includes sensor with 20 ft cable.
*Requires 2 inch diameter panel
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'Easy Fit LED Courtesy Lamps are
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MPASS


The Caribbean's Monthly Look at Sea & Shore
www.caribbeancompass.com

MARCH 208: a 50


uruzan Kacing
For young and old .................13

A Cuba Cruise
Southwestern style ..............18


Man, oh Manamo!
Visiting cultural change.........22


Business Briefs.....................8.
Regatta News.......................14
Destinations .......................... 18
All Ashore.............................28
Meridian Passage ...............34
Sailors' Horoscope .............38
Island Poets ..........................38
Cruising Crossword ...............39
Cartoons .............................. 39


r. -, .. ..,, .. .. .
Tel: (784) 457-3409, Fax: (784) 457-3410,

Editor..........................................Sally Erdle
sally@caribbeancompass.com
Assistant Editor..................Elaine Ollivierre
jsprat@carlbsurf.com
Advertising & Distribution........Tom Hopman
tom@caribbeancompass.com
Art, Design & Production......Wilfred Dederer
wlde@carlbbeancompass.com
Accounting ............................Debra Davis
debra@carlbbeancompass.com
Compass Agents by Island:






i .. . i .' h .... ... h ...

1111 1



arbb~ ~r


Trini Time
Cruisers at Carnival ..............26

Barbados...
Is it worth the beat? ..............28

Sloop John S.
Captain Smith's classic .........32


F DEPARTMJI ENTS


Cruising Kids' Corner............40
Dolly's Deep Secrets.............40
Book Reviews .....................42
Cooking with Cruisers...........44
Readers' Forum ..................47
What's On My Mind ..............50
Caribbean Marketplace......52
Classified Ads.....................54
Advertisers' Index ................54


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ISSN 1605 1998


C


MARCH

1 Spanish Town Fishermen's Jamboree and 12th Annual
Wahoo Tournament, BVI
3 H. Lavitty Stoute's Birthday (celebrated). Public holiday in BVI
6 Budget Marine Commodore's Cup, St. Maarten.
www.heinekenregatta.com
6 9 28th St. Maarten Heineken Regatta. www.heinekenregatta.com
6-9 13th Annual Tobago Game Fishing Tournament. www.tgft.com
7 9 Blues & Rhythms Festival, St. Vincent. www.svgtourism.com
7 10 11th Annual Dark and Stormy Regatta, BVI. West End Yacht Club
(WEYC), Tortola, BVI, mvh@surfbvi.com, www.weyc.net
8 International Women's Day
9 23 6th Annual St. John Blues Festival. www.stjohnbluesfestival.com
10 Commonwealth Day. Public holiday in some places
14 National Heroes Day. Public holiday in St. Vincent & the Grenadines
14- 16 Culebra Heineken International Regatta and Culebra
International Dinghy Regatta, Puerto Rico.
www.culebrainternationalregatta.com
15- 16 Le Troph6e Gardel Race, Guadeloupe. www.Trophee-gardel.com
15- 16 Antigua Laser Open. Antigua Yacht Club (AYC),
www.antiguayachtclub.com
17 St. Patrick's Day. Public holiday in Montserrat;
festival in St. Patrick's, Grenada
20 Holy Thursday. Public holiday in USVI
20 International Earth Day, Beach and dive clean-ups in many places
20 Compass Annual Writers' Brunch, Bequia. sally@caribbeancompass.com
20 24 Bequia Easter Regatta. www.begos.com/easterregatta
20 24 Easterval, Union Island, St. Vincent Grenadines. melissaj@vincysurf.com
21 FULL MOON
21 Good Friday. Public holiday in many places
21 23 Grenada Round-the-Island Easter Regatta. www.aroundgrenada.com
22 Emancipation Day. Public holiday in Puerto Rico
24 25 Goat and Crab Races, Mt. Pleasant and Buccoo Village, Tobago
23 Easter Sunday
23 Nevis to St. Ktts Cross-Channel Swim
24 Easter Monday. Public holiday in many places
27 30 St. Barths Bucket Race. www.newportbucket.com/StBarthslndex.htm
28 30 35th International Rolex Regatta, St. Thomas,
USVI. www.rolexcupregatta.com
29 Apr 20 Transcaraibes Rally, Guadeloupe to Cuba. www.transcaraibes.com
30 Spiritual Baptist Liberation Day. Public holiday in Trinidad & Tobago
31 Apr 6 BVI Spring Regatta & Sailing Festival. www.bvispringregatta.org



APRIL

6 26 St. Thomas USVI Carnival. www.vicarnival.com
11 13 Curacao International Kte Festival. www.curacaokites.com
12 Clean-Up Dive, Bonaire
17 22 Antigua Classic Yacht Regatta. SEE AD ON PAGE 17
17 3 May St. Maarten Carnival. www.stmaartencarnival.com
19 Virgin Queen Pizza Pursuit Race, BVI. RBVIYC
19 Declaration of Independence Day. Public holiday in Venezuela
20 FULL MOON
22 Earth Day
24 Guadeloupe to Antigua Race. AYC
25 27 Carriacou Maroon Music Festival.
www.grenadagrenadines.com/fest.html
25 27 Plymouth Jaz Festival, Tobago. www.tobagojazzfest.com
27 May 3 41st Stanford Antigua Sailing Week. www.sailingweek.com
28 National Heroes' Day. Public holiday in Barbados
30 Queen's Birthday. Public holiday in Netherlands Antilles.
Windsurf race in Bonaire
TBA Caribbean Film Festival, St. Barts. www.st-barths.com


All information was correct to the best of our knowledge
at the time this issue of Compass went to press but plans change, so please
contact event organizers directly for confirmation.
If you would like a nautical or tourism event listed FREE in our calendar,
please send the name and date(s) of the event and the name and
contact information of the organizing body to sally@caribbeancompass. com





Cover: Grenada Sailing Festival 2008
Photo: Tim Wright / www.photoaction.corn


I C R B E N










Info



Rodney Bay Lagoon Dredging
Dredging has commenced around Rodney Bay Marina, St. Lucia, in preparation
for the installation of new docks. As dredging proceeds, anchoring may be prohibit-
ed in certain areas of the outer lagoon only; the inner lagoon and Rodney Bay
proper will be unaffected. Before anchoring in the outer lagoon, call Rodney Bay
Marina on VHF 16.
Superyacht Zapped by Lightning
John Burnie reports: During a thunderstorm in January, the German Frers-designed


Does your insurance cover this? Keturah was destroyed by lightning


___________________________________________________________________________ I


SJOTUN


sloop Keturah, a New Zealand-built, alloy sister ship to the well-known superyachts
Unfurled and Vesper, was struck by lightning on the dock at the Catamaran Club,
Falmouth Harbour, Antigua. The boat caught fire and was towed away from the
dock and into shallow water where the rig fell down. She eventually burnt to the
waterline and was totally destroyed. Amazing that a lightning strike can do this to a
30-metre (93-foot) yacht.
Hotspots
After a lengthy period with virtually no yacht-crime reports from northeastern
Venezuela, that area has had a rash of incidents. Among the most recent are the
following, as extracted from reports by the Caribbean Safety & Security Net:
.... i--LEPAL[ F-L lAP


..., . ,, .,.







The anlchorage at Robledal Margarita, was the scene of one of the armed yacht
robberies reped om oreaster Veneu in Janary


January 2nd, Cabo San Francisco. At mid-afternoon, a yacht was approached by
five men in a pirogue with a 75-horsepower Yamaha. After trying to sell drugs and
then asking for water, the men attempted to board the yacht but were repelled.
January 12th, Porlamar, Margarita. Three men armed with a shotgun and two pis-
tols stole an unspecified amount of cash.
January 13th, Mochima Town. Two men armed with a gun and a knife boarded a
yacht, tied up its crew and looted it. The captain was able to identify one of the
robbers to police.
1+" 2- L-4 ///


The ancuary 15th Robedal, Margarita. A yacht was board oned and its occupants
robbed by five reported men. The yachts captaVenezuein was shot and hospitaliuared.
January 26th, Cabo San Francisco. At mid-afternoon yacht was boarded and its occupants robbed by
five men in a pirogue with a 75-horsepower Yamaha. After trying to sell drugs and
then asking for water, the men attempted to board the yacht but were repelled.
January 12th, Porlamar, MargariCa. Three men armed with a shotgun and two pis-
tols stole an unspecified amount of cash.
January 13th, Mochima Town. Two men armed with a gun and a knife boarded a
yacht, tied up its crew and looted it. The captain was able to identify one of the
robbers to police.
January 15th, Robedal, Margarita. A yacht was boarded and its occupants
robbed by five armed men. The yacht's captain was shot and hospitalized.
January 26th, Los Testigos. A yacht was boarded and its occupants robbed by
five armed men. The yacht's captain was shot and hospitalized.
-Continued on next page


SeaQueen &

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Jotun SeaQueen offers the BEST in tin free self polishing onlyAntifoulings and replaces the famous
Seamate HB 99 at the same competitive price. Various Tests in the extreme fouling conditions of the Caribbean have
confirmed its excellent value.

Jotun SeaQuantum represents the ULTIMATE development in hydrolysing but tin free
Antifouling paints, exceeding the self-polishing, self-smoothing and predictable Antifouling performance previously
only found in the now completely banned TBT paints. SeaQuantum is the result of 8 years of combined research of
Jotun Paints and the Chemical Giants Nippon and BASF. This bottom paint is the industry's state of the art solution
for an environmentally acceptable paint of highest performance standards.
SeaQuantum is manufactured worldwide in 34 factories.
Several tests on sailboats over the past 18 months have shown better results than
the repeated test winner and #1 choice of Caribbean cruisers, Jotun Seamate HB 99.
"SeaQuantum is most probably the world's best self-smoothing, self-
polishing Antifouling and a truly multi-seasonal bottom paint."
Technical Information and Dealer Inquiries:
Jotun Echo Marine Trinidad Tel: + 868- 634-2015 e-mail: jotun@echo-marine.com


d ad m JOTU






i ... ; ... r ge
: : ,, :i -I :,,, :i :, I www.safetyandsecuritynet.com and
www.onsa.org.ve/riskzonesmaps.
In related news, in mid-February, law-enforcement officers and businesspeople in
the Young Island Cut/Villa area of St. Vincent met to discuss the deterrence of
crimes against yachts. However, according to informed sources an incident involving
the Danish skipper of the yacht Lucia, while moored at Young Island Cut on January
26th, was not a robbery. Authorities say that the skipper, wanted for unspecified
crimes in Europe, attempted suicide while his shipmates were ashore having dinner.
The skipper, identified as Henrik Tarp, was found on a nearby beach the next day
with a knife wound on his neck. He reportedly told police that after cutting himself
and jumping overboard, he had "changed his mind" and swum ashore.
Visa Reprieve for St. Maarten-Bound Crew
In January, Dutch officials agreed to allow megayacht crew from more than 120
countries to enter St. Maarten without a visa until July 1, as long as they have a let-
ter of guarantee from their agent that they will leave. The European Union requires
visas from some visitors. Because St. Maarten is a part of the Netherlands Antilles, it,
too, must follow that rule.
As Lucy Chabot Reed reported in The Triton on January 29th, when the EU first
imposed the requirement, the St. Maarten Marine Trades Association (SMMTA)
secured a grace period that permitted yacht crew from affected countries to enter
under their seaman's book. After July 1, affected yacht crew will need a visa from a
Dutch embassy to enter St. Maarten. These visas are not obtainable in the
Caribbean.
For a complete list of naiionaliies needing a visa to enter St Maarten visit
www netherlands-embassy org.uk.
For more information visit www.smmta com.
Eight Bells
We regret to inform Compass readers of the death in early February of yachts-


man, gentleman and Grenadines tourism pioneer Hazen "Haze" Richardson. Chris
Doyle wrote in the Sailors Guide to the Windward Islands:
"Back in the late '50s, Haze Richardson and Doug Terman quit flying for the US Air
Force and with what little money they could beg, borrow and scrape, they bought
an old wooden yacht called Jacinta and set sail for the Caribbean. They chartered,
and one of their clients was Willis Nichols, who thought it would be fun to buy a
Caribbean island and build a hotel. Haze and Doug were asked to build it..."
This island was Petit St. Vincent, better known as PSV, which Haze and Doug trans-
formed from an uninhabited 113-acre island to a unique first-class resort of 22 cot-
. i


Above: A string band including PSVs boat captain Chester Belmar (second from
right) played afinalfarewell to the island's leading light
Left: Flags at Petite Martinique flew at half mast in honor of Haze Richardson
tages, one of the longest running success stories in the Caribbean. PSV was also
home to the unforgettable PSV Regatta, which was a highlight of the regional rac-
ing scene in the late 1970s and early 1980s.
Haze's unexpected end reportedly came after striking his head on a submerged
rock while bodysurfing in Costa Rica. He is survived by his wife, Lynn, family, friends
and PSV staff. He was 73 years old.
Chris writes: Valentine's Day 2008 marked the end of an era. For it was the memo-
rial service for Haze Richardson. In a thoughtful gesture, his widow, Lynn, arranged a
local memorial service in Petite Martinique even before the funeral in his native
United States had taken place. People came by plane, speedboat and yacht from
Grenada, St. Vincent and throughout the Grenadines to pay their last resects to this
dignified man. The church (the same Catholic church where Haze and Lynn were
married) was packed to overflowing. It was an upbeat service with lively music and
a eulogy by fellow pilot Jonathon Palmer.
Continued on next page


Simplicity.




Reliability.




Long life.


NORTHERN LIGHTS




English Harbour Grand Anse Christiansted Cole.Bay...........................
Ph:26-46 150"Ph: 3 -4 P.:354425 h 8 7 I 284-494 2 0 l



il:, 2 0 F 490 284-494;5389
mp cnd.a enz- .ic isl. co sales if eslc homl.co ** *a dw vin

St. Joh








,- ii -, i [I : -i i hi N I I:.n.,,' :,..- were at half-mast and had been since the news.
After all, Haze, in creating Petit St. Vincent Resort out of a deserted island and run-
ning it perfectly for all these years had changed the lives of many of the people
present. The Grenadines won't be the same without him.
After the service everyone went by boat to PSV where a magnificent lunch was
had, and PSV's long-time launch captain Chester and friends got to play a little
music. People then headed away in different directions. I sailed back to Union
Island on Jambalaya. Sailing on a traditional locally built schooner seemed like a fit-
ting finale to saying good-bye to both Haze and a whole time period. For when
he and I arrived in the islands, all cargo went by schooner or sloop and the fishing
fleets still set out under sail. Nothing lasts forever.
I am sure we all wish Lynn the best of luck in continuing with PSV, which to all of us
is a special place.
US Coast Guard to Continue HF Weather Broadcasts
On February 11th, Sailworld.com reported: Last April the US Coast Guard asked for
public comment on the need to continue broadcasting high frequency (HF) high
seas weather forecasts for single sideband voice, facsimile charts and text mes-
sages over radiotelex (e.g. HF NAVTEX). The Coast Guard required public comment
because the infrastructure necessary to provide these services had exceeded its life
expectancy and significant costs were involved to continue these services.
After reviewing and analyzing the substantial public response that overwhelmingly
urged the continuation of these services, the Coast Guard's "business case study"
concluded that it was necessary to continue HF weather broadcasts. The business
case study, "An Impact Assessment of Discontinuing USCG High-Frequency Radio
Broadcasts of NWS Marine Weather Forecasts" is posted at
www.navcen.uscg.gov/marcomms/highfrequency/HF-WXnotice.htm.
The study concluded: "The responding public collectively perceives that the
USCG HF broadcasts are essential to their safety. There is no viable alternative to the
USCG HF broadcasts because present alternatives are perceived by the public to
be out of financial reach. Also, marine weather forecasts available through these
alternative sources may not guarantee the same level of accuracy, timeliness,
and/or sufficiency as provided by the USCG HF broadcasts."
While the Coast Guard does not have funds necessary to replace all of its HF trans-
mitters, funds are available to replace the 20 transmitters used for weather broadcasts.
Grenada's Mutating Marine Sculpture
The marine colonization at Grenada's underwater sculpture park has been a
great success and many new sightings of corals, sponges, algae and marine life
have been documented. To see the natural growth on and around the submerged
concrete sculptures visit
http://underwatersculpture.com/pages/gallery/underwater-gallery/index.htm. Or
better yet, sail to Moliniere Bay on the island's west coast, put on your snorkel and
mask, and visit them in person.
Errata
In the letter from Dalton Williams of S/Y Quiefly in February's Readers' Forum, it was
stated that Heather Grant was a member of the Board of Directors of the Tobago
Cays Marine Park. Heather says, There must have been a misunderstanding on his
part when we were talking. I am not a board member of the TCMP and never


have been. I did express
some interest in his idea
and suggested he discuss his
idea with the chairman of
the TCMP board."
What's With the Shark Hat?
Readers have been asking,
"What's the story with the
photo of the guy with the
shark balanced on his
head?" in the last issue of
Compass. Ralph Trout, author
of that issue's "Bad Luck in a
Great Place, Part One",
about how he came to settle
in Trinidad, says, "We saw this
guy walking along the road
one day in Toco. He must
have had his hands full."
Annual Writers' Brunch
Calling all Compass con-
tributors! If you've had an
article, photo or poem pub-
lished in the Compass dur-
ing the past 12 months, you
are cordially invited to bring
a guest and join us at this
year's Compass Writers'
Brunch on Thursday March
20th at the ever-popular
Mac's Pizzeria in Bequia.
The Compass Writers'
Brunch is held just at the
beginning of the Bequia
Easter Regatta, so you can stay on for a whole weekend of fun. The party is
absolutely free it's our way of saying a special thank-you to everyone who
helps make the Compass special!
By reservation only Please RSVP by March 17th to salydcaribbeancompass.com or
phone Sally at (784) 457-3409
New E-Addresses for Compass
The general Compass
e-mail address compass@caribsurf.com will change to compass@vincysurf.com
effective March 1st.
Welcomae Aboard!
In this issue of Compass we welcome new advertisers By Design of Antigua, page 43;
Gourmet Food of St. Vincent, page 44; and Lagoonieville books of the USVI, page 41.
Good to have you with us!


FORWARD THINKING

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UP 1, R0O f-It


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kll~


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0 Mi-ij~hkor


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BUSINESS




Northern Lights Expands in its Golden Anniversary Year
Northern Lights, a global leader in the manufacturing of marine diesel generator
sets, Lugger propulsion engines and land-based diesel generators, will celebrate its
50th anniversary this year. Founded in 1958 as Alaska Marine & Equipment in
Cooper Landing, Alaska, by Harold Walton Johnson, Northern Lights has grown into
one of the marine industry's most respected companies. Starting with a line of
industrial generators for Alaskan lodges and off-grid applications, Mr. Johnson's
company soon developed a marinized generator set whose robust design and
ease of service became the genset of choice for that region's demanding com-
mercial fishing industry.
The Lugger propulsion engine followed, utilizing the same core principals of reli-
able power production, durable build and simplicity of use and maintenance.
Today, Northern Lights boasts three branch offices, global distributors and a network
of nearly 300 factory-authorized dealers located in the world's major ports of call.
As a fitting mark of their continued growth in this their 50th anniversary year,
Northern Lights recently announced the acquisition of Ft. Lauderdale-based Rich
Beers Marine, Inc. Rich Beers Marine has manufactured the Technicold brand of air
conditioning and refrigeration systems since 1981. Widely sought by yacht builders
as well as commercial fishermen, the Technicold reputation for quality makes it an
ideal match for Northern Lights.
"We look at the values displayed by Rich Beers Marine as consistent with our
own," said Northern Lights Manager of Marketing & Sales Administration Colin
Puckett. "We put our highest priority on engineering and craftsmanship. Our prod-
ucts are known for reliability, durability and simplicity."
Northern Lights officials see excellent opportunities in cross-branding the two com-
pany's goods, and greater value for their customers. "The combination of
Technicold products with Northern Lights generators will enable us to offer a more
comprehensive solution to our customers. A vessel's air conditioning and refrigera-
tion systems can be designed and engineered in tandem with the generator set,
which gives a greater overall efficiency to the electrical demands onboard,"
Puckett explained.
For more information see ad on page 6.
Errol Flynn Gets Blue Flag
In the European Marine Community a "Blue Flag" is the watchword for marinas
that are in total compliance with all environmental standards, and which can meas-
ure up to the constant scrutiny of the relevant rating committee. The Errol Flynn
Marina in Port Antonio, Jamaica is now flying the Blue Flag for the third consecutive
year and is rightly proud of this achievement!
Errol Flynn is one of only three Caribbean marinas that presently hold this Blue
Riband of marina compliance, making only minimal impact on their environment.
In addition to the marina, their impeccably maintained white sand beach also
joined the exclusive group of beaches certified for Blue Flag recognition.
And there's more! While some Caribbean marina facilities may still cling to high
daily or hourly charges for internet service, there's no charge for clients at Errol
Flynn. They offer both high-speed wi-fi 24 hours a day and free use of their internet
cafe PCs during regular business hours.
For more information see ad on page 17.
Discovery Developers Announce Group Restructuring
Following the successful completion and opening of Discovery, the Superyacht
Marina and the Marina Village at Marigot Bay, St. Lucia, Doubloon International Ltd


has announced a corporate re-organisation to align resources for future tasks as the
group passes from the "Development" stage to "Operations".
Discovery at Marigot Bay is managed for Doubloon by GLA Hotels of Paris,
France, a leading operator of upscale boutique hotels, with considerable experi-
ence in the Caribbean. John Jones, a real estate entrepreneur based in Paris,
remains the Chairman of Doubloon International Ltd. as well as its principal finan-
cier and shareholder. At the initiative of John Jones, Doubloon has recruited a
highly experienced hotel operations consultant to monitor the performance of
both Discovery and GLA Hotels.
Continued on next page






...... i i , page
A :I I :. oubloon Services Ltd (DSL), the project development
team responsible for planning, construction and fitting-out of the hotel and marina
facilities, de-merged from the group and will now operate as an independent proj-
ect development group. DSL continues to be managed by John Verity, who also
remains Managing Director and a significant shareholder in Doubloon International
Ltd. In addition to continuing to provide supervision and support to the existing
Marigot businesses, DSL is also reviewing a number of new St. Lucian hospitality and
real estate projects.
Having completed the job of selling the Discovery and Marina Village
Apartments, Doubloon Real Estate Ltd (DREL) also de-merged from the group and is
now an independent real estate agency. Managed by David Farrin in partnership
with John Verity, DREL will focus on a number of new real estate sales projects in St
Lucia, and has already entered into contracts with developers to sell villas and
apartments worth in excess of US$50 million. DREL will work closely with DSL on new
projects, providing a fully integrated service to developers.
Finally, the completed Marina Village a waterfront retail and commercial
complex at Marigot Bay serving both the hotel and marina has been placed
under the management of Bob Hathaway and his Marina management team to
develop the synergy and inter-dependence between the Village facilities and
visiting yachts.
For more information see ad on page 14.
Quantum Sails in Trinidad
Quantum Sails no stranger to anyone with a sailboat now have an office in
Trinidad where they can handle your new-sail requirements. Orders are designed in
the Quantum head office in Annapolis and made to the stringent Quantum specifi-
cations and workmanship at their loft in Cape Town, South Africa. The Cape Town
loft is the second largest loft in the world and turns out large sails at a rate of 80 per
week. And now you can access Quantum Sails in Trinidad!
For more information see ad in Marketplace on page 53.
Crossing the Atlantic in a 21 -Foot Trawler?
Yves Kinard is a Belgian naval architect and boatbuilder who has been estab-
lished in Saint Martin for over 13 years. He has designed a variety of different vessels


ranging from sailing yachts to pleasure motorboats, and from fishing boats
to megayachts.
In 2004, he embarked on a project to create a small, comfortable and seawor-
thy motorboat with low fuel consumption, which would ultimately be able to cross
the Atlantic.
The result was the 6.5-metre Mayrik P214 MiniTrawler with Perkins M92B engine.
In 2009, Kinard hopes to launch a powerboat race, which will include the Mayrik
P214, racing from Saint Martin in the French West Indies to Saint Martin de Re, near
La Rochelle in France, with a refuelling stop in the Azores. One of the aims of the
race, for which sponsorship is still invited, is to draw attention to the need for real
fuel economy in these times of dwindling natural resources. To promote this event,
Kinard plans to make a maiden Atlantic crossing in his Mayrik P214 in the early sum-
mer of 2008.
For more information visit www mayrik com and click on P214.



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4ILIAR FAC


IGHT-AIR BI


Left: A Storm was brewing, and it swept to the top
of Racing Class I


Below: Racing Class II winner, Enzyme, was also
named 'Best of the Best'








I...



--aII


he 14th annual double barreled Grenada
ailing Festival was held from January 25th
through 29th, under the new title sponsor
ship of Port Louis Marina for the event's
four-day keelboat series and Digicel for the
two-day Workb .1 I .11
Competitors *'.... i' as far as Venezuela, North
America and Europe. Local and regional yacht racers
with prior experience in this event dominated the
Racing and Cruising Classes, while in the J/24 and
Charter Classes, sailors from Canada and the
Netherlands took first prize respectively.
For the 30 entries in the yacht fleet's Racing I,
TI, Cruising, J/24 and Charter Classes, the
S on Saturday began at True Blue Bay on the
island's south coast in 18 knots of wind. 1' ",.1
Grenadian life-long sailor Champie Evans' .*" i-
Julia, led the Cruising Class fleet across the finish line
at Grand Anse, last year's class winner, Carriacou
born and Trinidad-based Jerome McQuilkin's
Beneteau Oceanis Wayward, placed first on corrected


time. Overall Racing Class winner in Grenada Sailing
Festival 2007, the Trinidad-built Soca 43 Storm, skip
pered by Peter Peake, topped the first race in Racing
Class I. Also from Trinidad, Paul Solomon in the
Henderson 35 Enzyme, a class winner in this event's
2005 edition, took the lead in Racing Class 2. Sailed
by Robbie Yearwood, the Grenada Yacht Club's J/24
Blew By You the events 2006 class winner -blew
to the head of the J/24s, and Ambrosia, a Bavaria 42
chartered by R. Pfeiffer of the Netherlands, took first
in Charter Class.
For the Saturday's second race, a windward-leeward
course off spectacular Grand Anse Beach, the yachts
were joined by a Port Louis Traditional Class compris
ing the Carriacou-built Margeto and Jambalaya, and
the newly launched [see "Launching in Petite
Martinique" by Susan Payetta, Compass, February
2008] Savvy. Margeto won the day. Wayward, Storm,
Enzyme and Ambrosia took their second bullets. In the
J/24 Class, another Grenada Yacht Club J/24,
Tempest, skippered by Mark Solomon, had a win.


Saturday's third race took the yachts back to True
Blue, with upsets in Racing I when Combat, a
Beneteau First 40.7 sailed by Hugh Pringle of Great
Britain, corrected ahead of Storm, and Jabulani, skip
pered by Dave Tod of Canada, topped the J/24s.
Continued on next page


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Continued from previous page
On the Sunday, a deliberately short triangle course off
the south coast saw more changes. Beneteaus YoYo!,
a First 47.7 sailed by Spencer and Russell Whitworth
of Great Britain (Racing I), and Wajang, a First 10
sailed by Darcy Carr of Trinidad (Cruising), joined
Enzyme, Ambrosia, Blew By You and Margeto as class
winners on corrected time.
The day's one short yacht race allowed the keelboat

h ,,,1 I1 .... .. 11 II i I ih 1 ..... . I I ,1 ,,I,,, ,1


gram. More than 30 indigenous workboats from
Grenada's fishing communities of Gouyave, Sauteurs
and Woburn, and sister islands Carriacou and Petite
Martinique, were contesting the Grenada National
Team Sailing Championship titles of Coca Cola Junior
Champion and United Insurance Senior Champion.
New sails for the one-design GSF16s, in which the
winning skippers in each class battled each other for
the Digicel Skipper of the Year prize, were courtesy of
United Insurance. The last workboat race was a real
nail-biter, with the Woburn team passing the guys
from Petite Martinique at the last mark to take the
lead -only to capsize!
The Junior Sailing Champion team was Woburn, the


Senior Champion team was Sauteurs, and the Skipper
of the Year title was captured by Ken De Roche of
Petite Martinique.
The keelboats continued to race on the Monday with
two long triangles off Grenada's south coast for all
classes except Traditional, which had completed its
series. Due to -lini:n.ii. --,n-:1, the course was
shortened. The I - ..j and Blew By You
finishing within two seconds of one another in Race

1' ...... .I 11 11 1 -,1 1 .. I .. U I ., .. .


Jabulani (J/24) and Andiamo (Charter: Moorings 44.3, Above: Margeto from Carriacou was victorious in
Menno Van Kommer, Netherlands). Traditional Class
The last dayofthe Port Louis C i. .,i,,,. stival Left: One-design GSF16s surging toward the finish
2008 featured the optional Moet I .. -, ii i .... True
Blue to Grand Anse, raced in very light airs. The race After four days and seven races, overall winners were:
committee decided that, since the wind was so slight in Racing I, Storm Racing II, Enzyme; Cruising, Wayward;
Grand Anse Bay, instead of attempting triangles there Charter, Ambrosia; and J/24, Jabulani. Enzyme was
they'd send the fleet back to the breezier south coast for awarded the Port Louis Trophy as the Best of the Best.
the last race. The unseasonal wind pattern did provide Next year's Grenada Sailing Festival will take
a downwind start, great for spectators with all the spin place January 30th through February 3rd.
nakers in view. The final race's winners on corrected Thanks to MaryAnn Hambly-Williams for inform
time were Storm, David Cullen's Grenada-based J/109 tion used in this report.
Pocket Rocket, Jerry Stewarts Carriacou-based Hughes For complete results visit
38 Bloody Mary, Ambrosia and Jabulani. www.grenadasailingfestival.com


Swrlwr ~ 2~nrRr~~I~BB4:aska ,twsna a .. ~lm_ r


OURRSI p" a A Oon xantrex m
LE&21 -', AUA 68E et. iul tapntaI O1IInwfln 0xnta *liQB klc~










Andrew Burke's Sail



from the Heart

by Norman Faria


Barbadian Andrew Burke, well known in regional
competitive yachting circles for amazing victories in
regional regattas since the 1970s at the helm of his
self designed and built fiberglass sloops Nefertiti and
Countdown, has won yet another prize.


DurIuVos 5 LULamtLS 51119tW IlIUrtI r rIlUlvmY UUCK
at the Careenage on a blustery day
Not a trophy to add to his impressive collection. Not
the ---;;;;;; -heque. Not yet another outboard motor
or .- II ,
This one was perhaps the most memorable of all: the
gratitude and admiration of the Barbadian govern
ment and people after he sailed singlehanded around
Barbados on February 10th to raise funds for the
Barbados Cancer Society.
"Singlehanded" is the operative word. Not only in
the sense boating people know it -having one person
on board. Andrew circumnavigated the 21-mile-long


by 14-mile-wide island literally with one hand. You
see, in 2005 doctors removed his left hand and should
der blade to stop the spread of brachial plexus cancer.
He is presently receiving chemo treatment for cancer
recently found in his heart.
Notwithstanding the quip of a friend of mine, who
joined hundreds of islanders and tourists to welcome
him at back at the Careenage Harbour in the capital
Bridgetown, that the veteran sailor "could have easily
done it without any hands", Andrew's awareness-rais
ing feat was greatly admired.
Both the island's Prime Minister, David Thompson,
and Minister of Sports, Dr. Esther Suckoo-Byer,
termed it a remarkable achievement. "This is a cele
bration of the indomitable human spirit and shows
what we can accomplish through sheer will," noted the
Sports Minister.
In her remarks, Honorary Secretary of the Barbados
Cancer Society, Dr. Dorothy Cooke-Johnson, dis
closed that the target of Bds$150,000 (US$75,000)
had been surpassed in what was dubbed the "Sail
from the Heart". 'We can double that," she urged the
enthusiastic and sometimes emotional gathering.
Many eyes were moistened as little seven year old
.--i-r C'r--"i-l who had one of his legs amputated
presented Andrew with a gift. He
had earlier in the day, at Andrew's special request,
pressed the starting-horn button.
For his part, Andrew said, "I never gave up. Life goes
on (after a diagnosis). I keep going. I have something
to live for." He was embraced by his wife, Sally, at
trip's end and his son Christopher was part of the tie
up crew at the Careenage.
Of the actual sail, Andrew said the winds were gusty
that day (up to 30 knots) but he trimmed the sails to
suit and was actually two hours ahead of schedule
after he rounded the island's north point during the


anti-clockwise circling.
Andrew's boat, Regent One, is a 43-foot Beneteau
Idylle and former charter boat. The trip started at
0600 and he was back at the Carlisle Bay finishing
line by 1600.
Peter Burke, Rear Commodore of the Barbados Yacht
Club, part of the organising committee and Andrew's
cousin, said in an interview everything went well.
Asked whether the committee would look into Andrew's
suggestion, made in his remarks at the Careenage, that
he was now considering sailing non-stop Barbados-to
Balliceaux (an island in the Vincentian Grenadines 110
miles away) if the target monies were doubled, Peter
said they would consider it..
Well done, Andrew! We join others in wishing a long
life to you!


Greeted by Barbados Yacht Club bartender Imor,
Andrew celebrates his successful solo island circumnav-
igation andfunds raised for his island's Cancer Society







15THANNUAL ST. CROIX IINTilERNATIONAL IREGA


The Devil outsmarted Mother Nature at the 15th annual St. Croix International
Regatta, held February 9th and 10th out of the St. Croix Yacht Club in the US Virgin
Islands. In reality, it was the combined expertise of the Stanton brothers -Chris on
the helm, Peter calling tactics, and Scott on jib trim that powered their Melges 24,
Devil 3, through 18 to 25-knot winds and five to six-foot seas to a win in the
Spinnaker Racing II Class. The win, achieved in the regatta's most competitive class,
also earned skipper Chris his weight in Cruzan Rum the signature prize in this
sailing event.


Three Harkoms slices through the seas en route to a win in Spinnaker Racing I at
the St. Croix International

Devil 3 successfully defended its champion title from 2007, but while the boat was
the same, the crew was new. "I'm back i. .. ii .. I i ble to race with my broth
ers this year," says Scott. In addition, ,.I i, I i ... I and former dinghy sailor,
Larry Malanga, was aboard.
Tactically though, "It all came down to the fact that we were able to really power
up on the downwinds," says Scott. "This helped us stay ahead of the other Melges
24 (Silver, skippered by fellow Crucian, Morgan Dale), and J Walker (helmed by St.
Thomas' Chris Thompson)."
Thirty-five boats hailing from Puerto Rico, the US "ir.rn Islands, British Virgin
Islands and St. Maarten competed in this kick-off "i i the Caribbean Ocean
Racing Triangle (C.O.R.T. Series), which includes the Culebra Heineken
International Regatta in March and BVI Spring Regatta & Sailing Festival in April.


The BVI's Christopher Lloyd's highly modified Beneteau 445 Three Harkoms won
the Spinnaker I class with a pick-up crew of talented sailors and a string i 1...
but bullets to show for their efforts. Yet, all eyes were on a pair of sleek Far. i. ,
also competed in this class.
"OnDeck Ocean .... out of St. Thomas wa'lI 1 1 I their Farrs race-charter
ready and asked ii I help," explains John FI i ,.I -*o, we put the word out
and received over 30 responses from the US mainland and Caribbean for crew slots.
In the end, one Farr was crewed mainly by Crucian sailors and the other by St.
Thomians. In spite of the Crucians having some crew with Farr 40 experience on
board, we Thomians won.
In the Racer-Cruiser class, the BVI's Guy Eldridge made a clean sweep in his
brand-new Beneteau 10R, Luxury Girl
"We sold the Melges (Mistress Quickly) and bought this boat instead to be able to
take our friends out with us," says Eldridge.
In spite of the boat being new, the crew is well experienced. "Six of our nine crew
used to race aboard Mermaid, including Doyle sailmaker, Mark Ploch," cites
Eldridge, as the secret to success.
Competition in the IC24 class was as hot as ever, however the Puerto Ricans
aboard Orion finished the event with an almost unheard of ten-point lead. "The key
was to keep the boat flat in all that chop...and going fast," says skipper Fraito Lugo,
the man who's responsible for a fleet of eight IC24s now race-ready in Ponce.
St. Croix's Jeff Fangman's El Presidente won the Jib & Main Class with Tony
Sanpere, racing his home, Cayenne III, right on his heels.
Finally, in the Beach Cat Class, the father-and-son team of Chris Schreiber Senior
and Junior won after a heated match race with St. Thomas's Paul Stoken aboard
Hobie 16s. "It was all good fun," says Schriber, at the tiller of Auto World Express.
The Valentine's Day Optimist Regatta is an event for junior sailors sailed at the
same time the big boats are competing in the St. Croix International Regatta.
Twenty-seven juniors, representing all three US Virgin Islands, the British Virgin
Islands and Puerto Rico competed. Puerto Rico's Ivan Aponte won the event on
points after two throw-outs were calculated as the racing instructions dictated. His
triumph was over St. Thomas' Nikole "Nikki" Barnes who would have placed first if
no throw-outs were allowed, but still rose to the podium to take the Top Girl prize.
ST. CROIX INTERNATIONAL REGATTA 2008 CLASS WINNERS
Spinnaker Racing I (5 boats)
Three Harkoms, Modified Beneteau 445, Christopher Lloyd, BVI (7)
Spinnaker Racing II (11 boats)
Devil 3, Melges 24, Chris Stanton, St. Croix, USVI (7)
Racer Cruiser (7 boats)
Luxury Girl, Beneteau 10R, Guy Eldridge, BVI (12)
Jib & Main (4 boats)
El President, Thomas 35, Jeff Fangman, St. Croix, USVI (7)
IC24 (6 boats)
Orion, Fraito Lugo, Puerto Rico (30))
Beach Cat (3 boats)
Auto World Express, Hobie 16, Chris Schreiber, St. Croix, USVI (10)

VALENTINE'S DAY OPTIMIST REGATTA 2008 FLEET WINNERS
Overall
Ivan Aponte, Las Palmas Sailing Association, PR (15)
Red Fleet (Ages 13 to 15; eight boats)
Ivan Aponte, Las Palmas ...... -. .. .. PR (15))
Blue Fleet (Ages 11 and I I i .1-
Victor Aponte, Las Palmas Sailing Association, PR (35))
White Fleet (Age 10 & Under; seven boats)
Jonathan Woods, Royal BVI Yacht Club, BVI (91))
Green Fleet (Beginner; nine boats)
DJ Lorshbaugh, Frederiksted Community Boating Program, St. Croix, USVI (15)

For complete results visit www.stcroixyc.com


/ eu / / / /


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Regatta



News

Antigua Classic Yacht Regatta
Back in the 1960s, the captains and crews of classic
yachts that were gathered in English Harbour,
Antigua, challenged each other to a race to


Guadeloupe and back to celebrate the end of the
charter season. From this informal race, Antigua Race
Week was formalized in 1967 in those days all of the
yachts were classics. As the years passed, the classics
were gradually outnumbered by modern racing
yachts and the Classic Class was abandoned in 1987.
However, that year seven classic yachts turned out
and were placed in Cruising Class 3 with the bare-
boats. The class was so unmatched that it was down-
right dangerous, so Captain Uli Pruesse hosted a
meeting aboard Aschanti of Saba with several classic
skippers and in 1988 the Antigua Classic Yacht
Regatta was born, with seven boats.
Since then, the Antigua Classic has evolved into
one of the world's pre-eminent classic yacht events,
attracting between 50 and 60 spectacularly beautiful

i . ,. .. i i , T .
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sailing vessels each year. This regatta is truly in a class
of its own.
The Antigua Classic Yacht Regatta 2008 will run from
April 17th through 22nd.
For more information see ad on page 17
Guadeloupe's First Zion Cup
St6phane Legendre reports: This inaugural Zion Cup
regatta took place on January 12th and 13th at Vieux
Fort, Basse Terre, Guadeloupe. Zion in the Creole lan-
guage means "forest/roots" which is exactly what
Basse Terre is all about. The unusual selection of the
area of Vieux Fort, at the southwestern tip of
Guadeloupe facing the Saintes, was a wonderful idea,
as the Saintes channel's gusty winds and strong cur-
rents play tricks if one does not anticipate both. Two
boats experienced these tricks during the races, with
one JPK28 capsized and one monohull losing its mast.
The Vieux Fort locals' authenticity and natural
friendliness, and the beauty of the Bay Dupuy small
fishing harbor also make this regatta fun for all.
Twenty-one participants enjoyed the two-day regatta
organized by the Club Nautique of Basse Terre and
C'Fun, a windsurfing club at Vieux Fort.
The weather was fine and wind was smooth the first
day. The Saturday races were over by 1600 hours and
crews who had enough energy left could try their
hands at sailing the traditional local boats. By 1800
hours everyone had a try and it was time for drinks and
dinner served on the harbor jetty next to the Terminus
Bar in a friendly atmosphere mixing with local fishermen.
The wind strengthened on the Sunday and gusts
came down from the nearby mountain. By 1400 hours,
the racing was over and the prizegiving ceremony
took place early enough to allow crews from Pointe-a-
Pitre to reach the marina before dark. We are sure
next year everyone wants to be back, and sailors from
other islands are more than welcome to join the fun!
The Zion Cup 2008 winners were:
RACING/RACING-CRUISING CLASS
1) Paulista, J/120, Jean Luc Vasse
2) Marie Marie, Feeling 10.40, Franck Soret
3) Griofte, First 310, Pascal Durand
COASTAL & CRUISING
1) Mac Village, Muscadet, Eric Michel
2) Oiseau du Soleil, First 305Q, Danes Sgbastien
3) YouYouTo, First 27.7, Colette Erivan
For more information contact info@zioncup.org or
visit www.zioncup org.
Continued on next page


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Continued from previous page
Record Dorado at Spice Island Billfish Tournament
What a great turnout! What with 90 billfish releases
and a record-breaking 53-pound dorado at the 39th
running of this tournament, January 16th through 19th,
everyone was pleased. Thirty-six boats carrying 175
anglers arrived at the Grenada Yacht Club to partici-
pate in the event, with boats entered from Trinidad &
Tobago, St. Lucia, Barbados, Martinique, the United
Kingdom and Grenada. By the end of the competi-
tion, 15 blue marlin were released plus one landed, 54
sailfish released and nine white marlin released. Two
dorado, one wahoo and 11 yellowfin tuna were
brought to the scale.
This year the boats paraded through the Carenage
in St. George's on their way to the start, allowing the
public and media an opportunity to view them
before they headed offshore to fish.
Nigel Hypolite, fishing on local boat Crazy Horse,
caught a bull dorado weighing 53 pounds to beat the
long-standing tournament record and earn an ECS1,000
prize. At the awards ceremony and closing dinner held
at the Grenada Yacht Club the winners were:
First Place Boat: Hard Play II of Tobago
First Place Angler: Matthew Armstrong aboard
Challenge II of Barbados
Top Release Angler (3 releases): Matthew Armstrong
Top Release Boat (8 releases): Par-T-Time of Trinidad
Top Female Angler: Claudia Calase aboard Legacy
of Barbados
Boat Pool (weight of fish brought to the scale):
Challenge II of Barbados
Top Grenadian Boat: Risky Business
The SIBT committee thanks all their sponsors,
especially Carib Beer and Island Water World.

BVI Governor's Cup
The Governor's Cup Race, held on January 19th,
was organized by the Royal British Virgin Islands Yacht
Club and sponsored by his Excellency the Governor
David Pearey.
Five boats entered. Starting in Road Harbour,
Tortola, they raced across the Channel to round
Dead Chest to starboard. Christopher Lloyd's
Beneteau 445, Three Harkoms, with the Governor on
board as crew, quickly took the lead and was first to
set their spinnaker. Hot on their heels was Dave
West's Chippewa, a Melges 32, with some top BVI
racers on board.
The boats raced past Peter Island, rounding Norman


Island to starboard. Three Harkoms had some gear
failure at this point and retired. Chippewa, first around
the back side of Norman Island, was unable to hoist
its spinnaker for the exciting run in the big waves. West
commented afterwards that he was disappointed at
not being able to give his crew the exciting sleigh ride
he had promised in these ideal conditions for the
Melges 32. The Sirena 38 Pipe Dream, with Chris
Haycraft helming, was second round Norman Island,
recording top speeds of 14.4 knots while surfing. Guy
Eldridge on his new Beneteau First 10R, Luxury Girl, fol-
lowed in third place, with Presley King steering.
Latitude 19, the only IC24 entered, was close behind.
The finish was a fetch from Norman Island to the
Yacht Club House at Road Reef. Prizegiving was done
by RBVIYC Commodore Clair Burke, with the Governor
presenting prizes and the annual trophy to the win-
ners. Overall winners and their corrected times were:
1) Luxury Girl, Guy Eldridge: 2 hours, 17 minutes,
24 seconds
2) Latitude 19, Colin Rathbun: 2 hours, 17 minutes,
31 seconds
3) Pipe Dream, Chris Haycraft: 2 hours, 18 minutes,
34 seconds
Antigua Young Achievers Go Sailing!
Jolly Harbour Yacht Club has joined forces with


I1 -I


Club members to get out on the water


Antigua's Young Achievers Club, a local initiative run
by Clarence Pilgrim, who is helping the island's young
entrepreneurs realize their goals.
On February 1st, schoolteacher Neikeisha George
brought six young recruits to try their hand at sailing.
Ashley Quinlan, Shemeka Baltimore and Connell
Joseph from Pares Secondary School joined JHYC
Commodore Brian Turton onboard Miramar. Moniefa
Joseph of Princess Margaret School, Shamari Riley of
Clare Hall Secondary School and Verdanci Benta
from Antigua Girls' High School teamed up with the
club's Rick Gormley aboard Elethea.
Ms. George has 36 children lined up on a rota sys-
tem to participate in this weekly event. This is very
encouraging for Tanner Jones, who is heading a vol-
untary team renovating five Sunfish dinghies to
enable JHYC to form a Youth Division.
For more information visit wwwjhycaniigua. com.
World ARC Yacht Rescues Drifting Fisherman
World ARC 2008 is a new round-the-world yacht
rally that departed from Rodney Bay, St. Lucia, on
January 23rd. It will finish back in the Caribbean in
late March 2009.
The World ARC yacht Tillymint- an Oyster 82 and
the largest yacht in the fleet participated in the
dramatic rescue of a Caribbean fisherman while en
route to Panama. The small
open fishing vessel Vegas
from St. Lucia had been drift-
ing for 20 days without a
working engine. In the early
hours of January 26th,
approximately 80 nautical
miles off Aruba, the on-watch
crew of Tillymintheard faint
cries for help, though they
could not see another vessel.
In the time it took the crew to
drop sails, turn the yacht and
head back upwind in 25
knots of wind to the incident
position, the crew of the
Vegas had started a small fire
to attract attention.
Unfortunately, their signal fire
went out of control before
Tillymint reached them, and
oly Harbour Yacht Vegas' crew...
l Harbour Yacht Continued on next page


rt Louis marilia isioiow open e
s* s, renada. .


E I RENADA luse lill be adding another nine mega.acht
.. be berths 0 to 0 meters. The Creole illage includes shops
r-sta CapiLai which h can arrn.i aMl set or marine support
-servncea) an P sales office, whereatails of the entire Port Louis
project are a ticlP. information on property) and long term berth
-'-., sales. Due Io ogng' e lment, present berthing availability is limited so ....
please contact us before you arrive.







..... i. . page
j..,I-,,: :l,, : [i. : : + cape the flames. Tillyminfs
crew brought one fisherman aboard, but they were
unable to locate the remaining three.
Under the direction of MRCC Curacao, Tillymint
conducted a search of the area around the wreck-
age, joined at first light by other World ARC yachts
Southern Princess, Grey Lady, Harmonie, Blue Flyer
and Strega, and a Coastguard SAR aircraft. The
Netherlands Coastguard ship Jaguar was sent to the
area to co-ordinate the search. The St. Lucian sur-
vivor, Sherwin John, was evacuated onto the Jaguar.
MRCC Curacao called off the search at 1830 hours
local time of the same day, having failed to locate
the three missing crew.
All World ARC yachts resumed their course
for Panama.
For more information on World ARC visit
www worldcruising.com.

Necol Regatta a Peak in St. Maarten's Local Racing
A strong representation of the best sailors on the
island in very challenging early-February conditions
made the Necol Regatta an outstanding event
in St. Maarten.
Sailing took place off the airport runway and
returned to the St. Maarten Yacht Club for nourish-
ment and social events. Ten teams sailed ten identi-
cal one-design boats (with three or four crew) and
changed boats twice during the event. Principal of
Necol, Andrew Rapley, served as Race Officer, and
Race Judge Simon Manley heard a number of
protests. The winds presented extreme challenges as
speeds varied between zero and 25 knots with
changes occurring in seconds, causing crews to react
quickly or broach. Competitive crews constantly
adjusted their trim.
Frits Bus and his team of Rien Korteknie and Garth
Steyn dominated on points. Second place went to
the North Sails team led by Ernst Looser with Andrea
Scarabelli helming. Luc Knol took third from Bernard
Sillem after the latter lost a race by missing a mark.

St. Maarten Regatta Kids' Art Competition
On February 2nd, enthusiastic children aged four to
14 and their parents and teachers visited the Sint
Maarten Yacht Club in Simpson Bay, for the prizegiv-
ing of the 9th Annual Kids' Art Competition organized
by the club and the St. Maarten Heineken Regatta.
All the schoolchildren on the Dutch side of the island


Sophia and Maike from the Sister Magda Primary School in St. Maarten accept a prize for their Heineken
Regatta Art Competition boat project

received the assignment for this competition, whose
goal is to involve the local children in the regatta, and
help them to get in touch with sailing.
Judges Petra Gilders (Sint Maarten Yacht Club),
Ruby Bute, Antoine Chapon and Lucia Trifan (artists)
selected the winners for four age groups. The first-prize
winners of each category are: Nadja van den
Boogert from the Sister Marie Laurence School (4 and
5 years old), Samantha Heemskerk from the
Caribbean International Academy (6 to 8 years old),
Steven Cloose from the Sister Regina School (9 to 11
years old), and Sophia and Maike from the Sister
Magda Primary School (boat project). The Prins Willem
Alexander School won first prize for its class project -
a huge boat made out of recycled materials; the
Hillside Christian Elementary School and the Sundial
School also won prizes.
Thanks to the numerous local companies who gen-
erously sponsored prizes.

Visiting Teams at Schoelcher Week, Martinique
Young Trinidad sailors dominated the Laser and Team St. Lucia celebrating at Schoelcher Week prize
Optimist Classes at the 19th Sailing Week of the... giving, where Luis Meixner took third place in the
Continued on next page Laser Standards


www.antigua-marina.com falmar@candw.ag Tel: +1 268 460 6054 Fax: +1 268 460 6055






-Continued from previous page
...Schoelcher Pan American Championship, held February 1st through 5th in
Martinique, returning home with six medals, including two gold, from four
classes entered.
Rain showers and gusts up to 20 knots greeted the sailors daily. Near-shore cours-
es made for difficult shifts
and gusts.
Wesley Scott consistently
scored top-three finishes in the
Optimist Class to finish third in
a high-quality fleet of 65
boats. Derek Poon Tip made
the podium in third place in
the under-12 category.
Matthew Scott and Anthony
Alkins took turns at winning
races at the front of the Laser
4.7 class s 21-boat fleet, with
Scott eventually taking the
event from Alkins with a race
to spare. It was a similar story
At Schoelcher, the Opti Under12 winners included in the Laser Radial Class where
Tnidlad's Derek Poon np (second from eight) the Leighton brothers, Stuart
in third place and James, regularly
exchanged positions at the
front before Stuart took the title with a race to spare.
Best wishes to Stuart, James and team-mate Aaron Barcant, who will represent
Trinidad & Tobago at the Laser Radial Worlds in New Zealand this month.
The St. Lucia Dinghy Sailing Programme also sent a team to compete in the
Schoelcher regatta, with their eight young sailors and two coaches joining over a
hundred sailors of different nationalities. The St. Lucians sailed to Martinique aboard
St. Lucia Yacht Club members' yachts, Clara, Turtle and II Resitless, with their
dinghies strapped to the decks.
In the Laser Radial Class, 18-year-old Fred Sweeney just missed third place by a
few points, putting him fourth overall. Luis Meixner, 16, in the Laser Standard Class
was the Team St. Lucia's award-winning sailor, placing third.
The St. Lucia Dinghy Sailing Programme thanks the St. Lucia Yacht Club and the St.
Lucia Olympic Committee for their continued support.
The Transcaraibes Rally
The 9th edition of the Transcaraibes Rally will sail from Guadeloupe to Cuba
between March 29th and April 20th. Enjoying two free nights dockage at Marina
Bas du Fort in Guadeloupe (monohulls are also offered a free haul-out!), rally partici-
pants will sail to Marina Fort Louis in St Martin, where parties and another two free
nights dockage await. Onward to the BVI, for three nights at anchor, then to Casa
de Campo Marina in the Dominican Republic special entertainment and three
nights dockage included there. The next legs are to anchorages at Las Salinas and
Bahia Las Aguilas. The final leg arrives in Santiago de Cuba, where seven nights free
dockage give participants ample time for sightseeing. A gala farewell party, Cuban
style, rounds out the adventure.
For more information see ad on page 52.


21st

jnnua


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April 17''-22"1
2008 .


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at Lie Anligual Ya.ch CluI I26 ) 4 0).1799
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(onlatl lolin Louii R876-7 1.1(144 876-87 14412
e-mlail: iiilo,. errolll i lnnii.riia.Lion \ HF Chanl nel I l
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Southwest Cuba Part One:

UNCROWDED AND UNUSUAL


by Christopher Price


ow, I want you to think carefully about fast crow. It is also about 200 miles more than the dis
of Cuba is approximately 780 miles long. coastline has but three marinas, which are also the
That is roughly equivalent to the distance ports of entry for visiting yachts. Therefore, you might
from Cape Hatteras to Miami and 200 think that the marinas would be crowded, with space
miles more than from Lands End to John o' Groats by difficult to find.


On December 26th 2006, the marina at Cayo Largo,
the only one in 300 miles between Cienfuegos and the
western end of Cuba, held precisely six yachts. Yes,
that's right, six boats, and of these, four were local
charter cats based in the marina.
Continued on next page


BAREBOAT CHARTERS FULLY CREWED CHARTERS ASA SAILING SCHOOL
Doyle Sail Loft & Canvas Shop Raymarine Electronics Refrigeration Work
Mechanical & Electrical Repairs Fibreglass Repairs Laundry
Vehicle Rentals Showers Air Travel
Ice & Water Diesel & Propane Moorings
Island Tours Surftech Surf Shop Hotel Reservations
Quiksilver Surf wear Restaurant & Bar Boutique
On-site Accommodation Wi-Fi / Internet Cafe Book Exchange
PO Box 39, Blue Lagoon, St Vincent, West Indies
Tel. 1-784-456-9526 / 9334 / 9144 Fax. 1-784-456-9238







Continued from previous page
There was one other visiting British yacht -and us!
We had arrived that morning from Antigua and, having
been used to the crowded routes and harbors of the
Eastern Caribbean, it was immediately clear to us that
Cuba was going to be completely different.
Planning
The idea of going to Cuba had first taken root a few
years before and this had given us plenty of time for
homework. We started by looking at the available pilot
books -two in number -and opted for Nigel Calder's
Cuba: A Cruising Guide. We also bought the Lonely
Planet Guide, as well as making a visit to the Cuban
Tourist Office in London to collect a load of info.
Calder is quite emphatic that the only charts worth
considering are those produced by the Cuban
Government, and although this 1998 opinion may be
somewhat outdated, I have seen nothing of later pub
locations that has caused me to disagree with his view.
Therefore, by a devious route that would take an order
plus money from Florida to Havana to London to
Mexico to Havana and finally Antigua, the relevant
south coast charts were ordered about six months
before our planned departure date.
Our original intention was to i ,,i,
December because, for us, the .. i i
for sailing Cuban waters was a fairly small one. Our
usual annual pattern is to remain around 12 N during
the summer and, in practice, this means Grenada or
thereabouts. In Novembe' c ,i 1 l.. ....
tion and base ourselves .... i i i I. ... i
The north coast of Cuba I i .II i
is not considered an ideal cruising area until April or
May and this led us, at a fairly early stage in the plan
ning process, to decide that our I i. would be to
cruise the south coast during I. i .. two or three
months of the year.
By mid-November our charts had not arrived. Upon
"chasing" the order we were told that they were out of
print. Our friend Bill, who had already given us a con
siderable amount of useful advice about the Cuban
south coast, told us that they were available in
Toronto, but by then it was too late to re-order with
any hope of them arriving in time. In the end, Bill lent
us his charts and they proved to be invaluable.
Shortly before our departure it became necessary
for us to have some fairly extensive electrical work
done on the boat. This took twice as long as antici
pated and cost two to three times as much, but as the
man said when he presented an extremely painful
bill, "That's boats!"
Throughout the extra week spent on anchor at
Falmouth Harbor, the tradewinds blew at 20 to 25
knots, but predictably, very shortly after leaving on
December 15th, they dropped to gentle breezes and
our fast downhill run became a gentle amble. This
included a total of 72 hours motoring when our speed
dropped below two-and-a-half knots; our overall aver
age for the passage was barely five knots.
Isolation En Route
Bill had already warned us that on the Cuban south
coast we would have to get used to being on our own.
Therefore, we were not entirely surprised by the very
small number of boats we found on our arrival at
Cayo Largo.
However, our isolation started much earlier than
expected. On leaving Falmouth, we headed west
towards the bottom end of Nevis with two or three
other boats within a mile or so of us. They then turned
north towards St. Kitts while we carried on towards
our next waypoint, off Cabo Beata, the southernmost
tip of the Dominican Republic. We did not see anoth
er sailing yacht, or small vessel of any description, for
the next nine days! As we passed to the south of the
Mona and Windward Passages we saw a handful of
large merchant vessels heading north or south, but





Cly- C A A A


apart from those -nothing.
We were, in fact, lucky to be in these waters at all.
On our second night out, while motorsailing in a very
light breeze, our autopilot failed totally and refused to
communicate in any way, either with us or the rudder.
The prospect of carrying on without "Otto" was
unthinkable and an immediate decision was made to
divert to Marina Del Rey in Puerto Rico. This was
thought to be the nearest and most likely place to have
repairs carried out.
We altered course to the north and shortly thereafter
the wind rose to 30 knots. Most of the rest of the night


was spent hand steering, but at least we were making
good speed.
At about 0430 I pressed the button again and was
enormously relieved to find that Otto was working per
fectly. Obviously we had experienced a temporary
withdrawal of labor rather than a full-scale strike, but
as we had both been up all night we decided to divert
to Puerto Patillas in southern Puerto Rico in order to
catch up on some sleep and check the =t--r~~- thor
oughly. We anchored at 0800, hit the i i three
hours and I then carried out a detailed inspection and
test of the entire steering system. I could find nothing
wrong, Otto was ----rl- n- perfectly, so we hauled the
anchor and set I ... along the south coast of
Puerto Rico towards Cabo Beata.
Arriving in Cuba
Approaching Cuba from the east, across the
Windward Passage, the first 200 miles is mostly steep
to with mountains rising to nearly 4,000 feet very
close to the coast. There are, however, the odd little
hidey-holes, such as Guantanamo Bay and Santiago
de Cuba. I will keep to myself my opinion of what goes
on at the former. The latter is Cuba's second largest
city, is a port of entry and also has one of the very rare
south coast marinas. It has been described as the
Cradle of the Revolution and as such is considered a
"must" from a tourist point of view.
However, Nigel Calder describes the harbor as the
filthiest he has ever visited, with the marina being "a


beat-up affair with bits of steel re-bar sticking out and
threatening to damage your topsides every time the
boat is hit by the wake of a passing vessel". While rec
ognizing that things might have improved since Calder
reported, we were not so attracted by the cultural
delights of Santiago to risk either damage or degrada
tion to our boat and we decided to give it a miss.
After 200 miles of rocky coastline with very few
decent anchorages, the south coast of Cuba curves
away to the northwest, ending in Cabo San Antonio
more than 500 miles away. This long coastline forms
a huge bay, the outer or southern edge of which is


Public transport in Cienjeugos


marked, for all but 150 miles, by an outer fringe of
cays which stand on the edge of a near-vertical drop to
14,000 feet.
Between the cays and the mainland, sometimes a
distance of 60 miles, is a vast shallow shelf, rarely
more than 50 feet deep, which is also scattered with
hundreds, possibly thousands, of cays. In the middle
of this huge shelf is a deep inlet which carries depths
of 6,000 feet almost to the mainland coast. There is a
further narrow inlet called the Bay of Pigs (Bahia de
Cochinos), of which some readers may have heard.
As cruisers, we have a taste for lonely deserted
places and it was these vast shallow areas that really
tempted us to Cuba. Hence our decision to begin our
cruise towards the western end of the island, at Cayo
Largo, which is also a port of entry.
Clearing In
Before leaving Antigua we had attended a t-ll- i--n
by Commodore Jose Miguel Diaz Escrich, ." i I
the International Yacht Club at Marina Hemingway,
Havana. His main i I. I ) encourage the own-
ers and skippers I . i to cruise in Cuban
waters. He was anxious to emphasize that Cuban entry
regulations are no different from those anywhere else.
Continued on next page


SHIPCHANDLER ,, I

S Advice, solutions, choice...


K,,s. $ "_.-: ,...ay.r4_








in-A 'a iM Sea Se ices

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~-LIIIIIIIIIII







Continued from previous page
On the afternoon of December 26th, we were about to
find out for ourselves.
The first official on the scene after we made fast was
from the Ministry of the Interior. He just hung around
on the pontoon, but clearly he was there to make sure
we did not go ashore. Shortly thereafter the procession
started, and between 2:30PM and 10:30 the following


Cuba is famous for its lovingly preserved American
cars, some of which are well over 60 years old. This
Chevy is early Fifties.

morning we were visited by nine men and a dog. It
seems we got off very lightly, because other visitors
writing in Compass a few months ago reported that it
took 30 men and three dogs to clear them into Cuba!
[See "Cuba: Fair Winds and Friendly Faces" by Bernie
Katchor, September 2007.]
All our visitors -from the doctor, to the coast
guards, the frontier guards and the Ministry of Interior
-- -;-it;lt personnel were courteous, friendly
i i i they came aboard they removed their
shoes, shook hands and introduced themselves before


getting down to some very serious form filling.
This was the huge difference we found between
Cuba and anywhere else we have visited on either side
of the Atlantic. The forms seemed to be endless in
number, but they fill them in! Before leaving Antigua
we had prepared data sheets, in Spanish, which gave
every detail we could think of about ourselves and the
boat, from place of birth to height of mast to type of


outboard fuel. Copies were handed to the officials as
they came aboard, received with gratitude and they
then sat at the cockpit table and laboriously filled in
their forms.
Our cruising permit, or despacho, was prepared, the
appropriate stamps were obtained from the local post
office and we were then asked if we had any glue,
because the stamps were non-adhesive. Fortunately,
we did. They were duly affixed and cancelled with an
impressive rubber stamp, and we were almost ready to
start cruising. But not quite....
At 10:30 the following -n-rn;.;; re visited by
two men from the Ministr i .,.. .... who apolo
gized for their late arrival. Our onions were inspected
with a magnifying glass, we were instructed to eat our


vacuum-packed salami without delay, and we were
allowed to keep our thyme plant on the clear under
standing that we would not take it ashore for a walk.
At the end of the entry process we concluded that
Commodore Escrich may have been right in arguing
that Cuban requirements are no different from those
elsewhere. On the other hand, nowhere else have we
seen the requirements applied in such detail, with
such rigor -and with such charm.
And so t' prdirw.ninni AftPr 11 days at sea, we were
virtually ..I I i. -. I.... I ... i vegetables and needed to
do ... -1' i ,. .. 11.. i ... i ... to realize that
oui I' .-, .. i .1 i ... II .11 .1 iargo was not,
perhaps, our smartest move of t] .. 111. .. 1.
of the larger offshore cays itwas, 1. i..1 .11 1....
uninhabited, at least until the mid-1960s. Castro then
decided to create an international tourist resort there,
which now boasts eight or nine all-inclusive hotels and,
of course, an airport. There are no permanent Cuban
residents, although there is a dormitory village for the
hotel and service staff who fly in from the mainland for
two to three-week tours of duty. As the staff are all fed
in their canteens and the hotel guests stay on a full
board basis, who needs food shops?
We were saved from starvation by the marina man
ager, who gave us a list of fruit and vegetables that
might be available from the central store. Having made
our choice we were promised delivery the following day.
What arrived bore little relationship to that which had
been ordered; however, there really was no alternative.
We then discovered a small, closed "supermarket". It
opened at our request, but the only stock consisted of
S1I..... I .... f canned fruit and vegetables, mostly
c i i... ..... Anyway, with a combination of stuff
from the back doors of hotel kitchens, Chinese tins,
and the contents of our freezer we felt that we could
keep starvation at bay for another week or so.
Cayo Largo to Siguanea
Three days after our arrival at Cayc T -- 1 -ad
ed west with the declared intention I .... to
S.... ,. ..... about 150 miles down-wind. I say
" i I I. I .... that was what it said on our despa
cho. But, as we were to discover, this was by no means
as restrictive as it might appear. We were free to make
as many stops and take as long on the way as we
wished, providing that we didn't go into an undeclared
port. Had we done so, I think we would have run into
problems simply because it wasn't on our despacho,
but we were very pleasantly surprised by the degree of
freedom we had.
Continued on next page


I lll in i 11 ll l ir ll li Is.ri% l


'ilbill|; 'iriyll i ll"
inh' I'..nmriw Irip l i N


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Just you and the bamboo. Trinidad's interior provides great getaways
from boatyard life
Use your map and wind eastward through Erin and Moruga to Rio Claro and to
the southeast point of Mayaro. This is on the Atlantic side and Mayaro is a tourist
center with plenty of guesthouses. Drive north, since that's the only road, along a
palm-lined coast to another tourist center, the beach at Manzanilla. There are inex
pensive guesthouses available. On the rise leaving the beach towards '.Ir-
Grande is The Last Stop, an excellent place to get a local favorite snack ol -. .
and bake". Follow that road and it will take you to the Churchill Roosevelt and back
west to i. ... .. .... -
Most I ..I ... and eastern parts of Trinidad are still "old style" rural, with
only a few oil and gas pipes visitl- t*'--n-; fi-l-l= .;- t~- ..gar industry have
almost vanished. There are a lot oi -... 11 .I I .. I i i .... -I along the routes.
Fresh fish, shrimp, crab, fruits and -t .11 can easily be purchased at roadside
vendors. Always try to pull entirely 1 1, .1 safely or go on to the next vendor.
North Coast Day Trips
The road from Port of Spain to the north coast is another weekday trip.
Maracas Bay, the best known of any Trini beach and home to numerous shark and
bake vendors, is packed on weekends. Trinis love to eat and drink while at the
beach. Scotch is the beverage of choice. Designated drivers haven't really made it
yet, neither has the Breathalyzer or the radar gun. The roads are narrow and the
drop offs steep and deadly.
Beyond Maracas is Las Cuevas Beach, the calmest and clearest. This incredibly
scenic road will take you to another great beach at Blanchisseuse where a river
enters the ocean. This is a great spot for a picnic, or look for Fred's place for a superb
lunch and cocktails.
If you aren't exhausted and the sun is still high, take the road across the moun
tain to Arima. This route will pass the Asa Wright Nature Centre, famous for bird
watching. Excellent meals and accommodations are available at the Centre.
Once in Arima, the Churchill Roosevelt will bring you west again. Arima also has
an excellent horse track for monthly races (especially on Boxing Day).
One of the finest of Trinidad's road trips is to Toco on the northeast point. Follow
the Churchill east to Valencia but take a left, rather than following it to Sangre
Grande. Sections of this road are under repair, but it is also the main access to
the quarries. Expect to see many dump trucks, but the drivers are usually cour
teous and safe. This road is incredibly scenic. The drive will pass an excellent
beach and river intersection at Salybia, and a protected leatherback turtle nesting
area at Ballandria.
Gas is available in Cumuna, as is great local food at the Blue Restaurant. The
lighthouse at Toco is a definite Kodak moment. Follow the road to Sans Souci and
many excellent, relatively deserted beaches. Break Bay in Sans Souci is the only
surfing beach in Trinidad. Grande Riviere is another tourist enclave with upscale
restaurants anc 11i,,. associated. This road ends in Matelot, a traditional fish
ing village, but I ,- 11, unbelievably picturesque Shark River, a great place to
bathe in fresh water.
The northeast coast is one of the few remaining parts of "antique Caribbean"
Trinidad, while the remainder tries to accelerate into the modern first world. In the
north, banana farmers still haul bunches off steep hills on their heads or on don
keys. This area is still relatively safe and reminds me of Jamaica in the early
Seventies. Everyone is friendly and helpful to tourists. You'll hear soothing reggae
rather than pounding hip-hop.
"Forget about governments and world problems, be wary of crime, and be happy"
should be Trinidad's 2008 motto. In Trinidad, a true melting pot, everyone, Indian,
Chinese, African, Continental and Latino, seems to get along. Sports like cricket and
especially soccer are a great common denominator. Carnival every spring is the
mainstay of the culture. Petroleum and ,, .l... .1 ; ... 11., i -otectors of the econ
omy. Enjoy the beautiful vistas and the :.. ... i .I ........ .. but be careful.
In every perspective, Trinidad has gooo .1.. I '. I .1.... buck, with inexpen
sive escapes from yard and yacht drudgery.


Continued from previous page
South, farther along the Butler, is San Fernando ("Sando"), the home of great
hardware stores and specialized gasket and hose vendors. The suppliers of the oil
and gas companies are there. Driving here is best left to a guide, as no street seems
direct. A great restaurant is Uncle Sam's, close to the Butler exit. For a totally styl
ish lunch or dinner, do Soon's Great Wall. It is "the place" to celebrate an occasion.
Jenny's original restaurant is also in Sando.
Southern Getaways
Trinidad's Tourism Department is located in Port of Spain and has excellent infor
nation available. They supply a booklet of available "registered" guesthouses all over
the island. So if you want to get away from your boat or the yard, take a longer road
trip. You won't be sorry.
Pertinent direction signs have been installed. Follow the main road to Pointe-a-
Pierre and the Wildlife Trust for sedate birdwatching. Follow the same road through
';; t -.,t1 t- T-1- s on the island's southwest point. It is a usually quiet
II .. 11. ..11 II ... 11 you arrive in the early afternoon you might be able to


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We saw the article in the January issue on the Macareo River (and know the author) but the Manamo River is quite
a different trip. Just wanted to let you know they are two separate rivers. BB


he day began at 5:00AM with a black still
S less. The water was calm with long shad
S ows cast over the water from the shore. It's
S a new day and time to get moving for a
wondrous journey is about to begin. The
Journey is taking us up the Manamo River,
an arm of the Orinoco, in Venezuela.
We made our way to shore from the Trinidad anchor
age at TTSA in the dark, on a glassy platform shat
tered only by the bow of the dinghy breaking the
millpond surface. We hurried to the Customs Dock in
*. .. .......... i. we were greeted by the Customs
I i. i '"I. I processed our papers, then made
our way back to our boat.


Of Ibis and Electriity


by Bill Bate


With the motor breaking the stillness of the air and the
morning sun just clearing the horizon, spreading a gold
en hue over the water, we headed out of the harbour
with hopes that winds would rise as we ventured into the
Gulf of Paria. We were joined by friends on another
Tayana 42, called Sea Schell The Gulf of Paria didn't
yield the winds we were hoping for; however, we were


blessed with calm waters, light winds and a smooth
motor passage. The ten-and-a-half hour trip across the
Gulf went by reasonably fast as there were numerous oil
rigs along the way to look at. They are now derelict and
stand as silent ghosts, black statues in the middle of a
seamless ocean. At about 6:00PM we pulled in front of
the Pedernales townsite where we soon identified the


military police outpost and anchored just east of it.
The boat swung upstream and then downstream,
the current silently choosing where we would sit. As
darkness closed in, the sound of joyous Spanish
songs, musical instruments and voices in harmony fil
tered through the trees.
Continued on next page


I tL.aLeS L'A in f


D dyflts l TOe u S ana Europe
i J


WIG


3


9I:1-


meur


clmcan MarlJ


MEW h aII

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Continued from previous page
The homes, which were stilt huts along the river
bank, began to da-l--n H i-in. us little view of our
neighbours. The I ...- I distant music was
enhanced by the cries of egrets beginning to roost in
the bushes along the shore. There were no boats trav
eling on the river, no activity around us, mostly still
ness. There was no sense of threat, simply setting our
nest next to a quiet peaceful community. We were feel
ing anxious, not about our security, but about our
travels: to begin up the Manamo River the following
day. We had no previous river experience and no
detailed charts to guide us.
Morning came abruptly with the sound of outboard
motors starting as fishermen's pirogues began moving
away from the dock loaded with people and h-V-li;
out around the point for the Manamo River.
ashore with the intention of quickly checking into the
country at the regional police station, having a look at
the town, and topping up our liquid refreshment stock.
The soldier who served us was polite and welcoming,
he with limited English and us with next to no
Spanish. We learned he just wanted to know the
names of our boats and our destination, and he asked
to view our passports. It was very informal and we
were soon free to explore the community.
The streets of Pedernales were busy and the people
showed only modest curiosity about the strangers
arriving in their town. As we wandered the streets we
met the cruising family from Alouette who were also
exploring the town. The children on Alouette excitedly
told us they had seen local children playing with a
monkey. The main street of the town appeared as
i 1, ,, , had not changed much from the days of its
S. The streets were lined with the fronts of sin
gle-storey buildings with a variety of adobe style and
western batter-board. The children were happily play
ing and everyone just seemed to be going about their
day. It was Saturday and Election Day for the townfolk
who were quite preoccupied with the election -a ref
erendum being put to the people by the government.
On a side street we located a house with a sign
advertising canned liquid refreshments for sale. Their
prices were about US$7 for a 30 can case of beer, soda
pop or Malta. Although we had sufficient Bolivars with
us, we learned through the locals there were cambios
in town which would exchange US dollars for local
money at a very reasonable rate. With refreshments
shouldered, we made our way back to our boats and
headed upstream.
Prior to leaving Trinidad we had purchased an infor


A modernized Warao home on the Manamo River boasting galvanized roofing instead of palm thatch, plus plastic
bags, polyester clothes and electronic entertainment


mation 1 -1- bout the river, done by previous
cruisers. completely trusting in these as we
had no official charts of the area.
The Manamo River was muddy and was obviously car
rin- 1- t -f ilt Thic made it difficult to judge where
. .. 11, ... I ... I because the river was at the high


water mark, the shore was pushed back to the forest.
The trip up the river was wondrous. It was obvious
we were heading into a land that few people, except the
local Warao Indians, have seen. The forest was rich,
lush green reaching from the water's edge to a canopy.
Continued on next page


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Continued from previous page
Beyond the border trees, open fields appeared from time
to time as though the area had been cleared for agri
culture. We learned later from Alouette that the area
had previously been used for cattle ranching. As we
meandered up the river we f-;;; -1 r--- ----in~-
more comfortable with river t. I . II- Ii -
groundings which bruised the ego but quickly released
us to follow in the deeper channels of the river. After a
: ... i.. i, ur run, we found ourselves at Ibis
-i .. i i -- 06216.714W) where we settled
down to anchor at the southeast end of the island.


250 feet into the island's south tip. No longer was there
much evidence of green, just a mass of scarlet. The
sound was a continuous murmur of birds cooing and
calling to each other within the rookery. This eventual
ly quieted to near silence as darkness closed over.
We had learned the ibis leave at sunrise so we
planned tobe up andin 1. i,,.. 1 I the island
by first light. In thr m-r,,. Ii I i,., .. .1 11.
ibis began to take:l ..I i in small groups I 11 I
by larger groups, until the entire sky became darkened
and the sound of the birds taking off became a roar.
Within 15 minutes the entire rookery was emptied and


Waraofamilies visiting El Shaddai in paddled or the birds were gone. The birds had left us with a sense
motorized dugout canoes of bewilderment and awe. We now had an expectation
that the rest of the day was going to be either very
As evening closed in, we found we had anchored by exciting or very dull after such an extreme experience.
sheer luck at probably the most spectacular anchorage To our delight, a dinmh"- ride up a side cano, which is a
we had ever been in. Spectacular because, just as dusk natural -IAr.;;- .,,. .I ... th- forest, yielded a path
was approaching and the sun was beginning to set, deep int( 11. I -1 I .. ... ,- the dinghy to travel
small clusters of Scarlet Ibis began flying in and set unobstructed. We discovered that, with the tidal flow
tling on the island immediately next to our anchorage. going upstream, we could turn 1. i,, ..1 motor off and
For the next hour the ibis continued arriving in pro ride the current silently into the I -1 I 'I forest bottom
gressively larger flocks. The flocks were easily in the was dark and musty with beams of light breaking
hundreds and the silvery green foliage began acquiring through. Ti. ....- . to wonderment. With our
a scarlet hue and a smell began to drift over the motor off 1 I -I .1- -, ,,i broken only by the inter
anchorage, similar to a crowded henhouse. It turns out mittent calls of birds. Brilliant, almost fluorescent blue
the south end of the island is a night-time roost for the butterflies, about the size of a Monarch butterfly, con
Scarlet Ibis. ,i,1 ... ,i,,,,. ... the range of 10,000 stantly fluttered aimlessly, dancing from bush to bush,
birds coverecl I . "1 11. i. es over the space of never seeming to have a definite direction or goal, making


their route highly unpredictable. We listened carefully for
a i. 11.. 1 .i ..1i 1 .. I. .1 .. .. I .. .key, as it was
o ,.. . ..1 1 h..I ....1 .. I p ofthem But
none were found, and we realized that the area was devoid
of fruits or foods the monkeys might eat. We found it nec
essary to motor back out, against the current. The noise
of the motor deafened us to the sounds of the forest as we
made our way out of the cano into the main river.
After spending a second night anchored at Ibis
Island and a repeat of the ibis experience, we headed
up the Manamo enjoying a morning cup of coffee
under a bright sun and blue sky. Ahead, off the port
side, was a village taking shape. It began with a cou
ple of huts cut out of the forest and widely spaced,
then the main community of huts which were all of the
same style, on stilts without walls and with only
thatched roof coverings. Women and children climbed
iint- -;; t canoes and hurriedly paddled in our
.. i... slowed the yacht and were expecting
that they wanted to trade for woven baskets and bead
ed necklaces. But they came, for the most part, empty
handed. We gave out some flour and cooking oil and
then asked for a tour of their village.
They -- .1 1 went ashore together with our
friends i ... -- I. We made our way up a ramp
onto an elevated boardwalk at the floor level of the stilt
raised homes. A diesel generator drowned the other
sounds of the village. Above the boardwalk, mounted
on poles and strung from pole to pole, were exposed
light bulbs, lit by the generator which appeared to be
the only source of electric power. A severe culture
change was happening before us. The fresh paint on
the generator and the wall-less homes, revealing televi
sions and CD players, showed the electronic age and
consumerism had hit this village recently.
It was a Ph-+-I 1-ok at extremes. The ii .1
itself and 11 -i if the people appeared i ..
damentally near Stone Age, with open thatch-roofed
huts the only protection from the elements. Contrast
that to a diesel generator and families gathered
around a television at mid1.-- ---It-i;; n rt-- n
family proudly displayed i..I i i, I 11,.
contained half a bottle of Coca Cola and a jug of water.
There were no other contents -the man was showing
that it keeps his -; :-. frozen.
The electronic ,.1- .- vell as the Yamaha motors
mounted on their boats, were compliments of the
Venezuelan government. One hut had a communal
automatic washing machine and electric stove.
Continued on next page


IT'S MUCH MORE
THAN A MARINA: IT'S HOME! -
S mpson




LM


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Continued from previous page
Next to each hut was a big blue rain-catchment bar
rel with large letters on the side saying "Chavez". (At
one village we noticed some children in the river bal
anced on the lids of these rain barrels, using them in
place of canoes. The circular shape created some nav
igating challenges.)
Near the center of the village was a hut dedicated
as a school. However, the desks were all pushed to
one side and we learned a teacher had not been
available in a number of months. Melinda, from Sea
Schel noticed that a blackboard on the school wall
had the alphabet printed on it. A large group of curi
ous children had gathered around. Melinda pointed
to the letters and the children responded by reciting
the alphabet in Spanish. Suddenly the abandoned
school hut became a functioning school. This
attracted more adults and children and the school
hut filled up. Many children laughed with excitement
as they called out the letters of the alphabet and the
community immediately became more relaxed with
our presence. We discovered the Warao are just
beginning to learn Spanish.
We left this village with mixed emotions. The gifts of
the government are an extreme step forward in mod
ernizing the .ii -. i- linking; however, the villagers
were being 1 .... -1 i ... a culture of surviving on the
natural gifts of the forest and river, to a culture
requiring Bolivars to purchase fuel for their genera
tors and outboard motors. Then, there is the deeper
issue of social change as the people are exposed to tel
vision which will undoubtedly bring dissatisfaction
with their existence. We had experienced a similar
invasion of technology in a land-dependent society in
the past where, in northern Canada, native Indians
were given similar "benefits" and are now reported to
have ramp .'t 1;-;' and alcohol problems. We felt an
incredible ..- wrongdoing and destruction, as
the elements to support modern technology do not
exist here. We had also noticed in the village that
some of the men were apparently quite inebriated at
midday when traditionally they would have been out
. I fishing for their families.
iI I anchor and headed upriver seeking our
next planned anchorage a short distance away where
the cruising notes indicated howler monkeys and tou
cans had been seen.

Next month: Surprisingfinds farther up the river.










n y n a r wh



eA re nnrft-MemfrifW


REAL SAILORS
BUY STREET'S GUIDES

Real sailors use Street's Guides for inter-island and harbor
piloting directions, plus interesting anecdotes of people,
places and history. Street's Guides are the only ones that
describe ALL the anchorages in the Eastern Caribbean.

Real sailors also buy the other guides, that have pretty
pictures and describe hotels, bars, restaurants and
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Real sailors circle in Street's Guide the anchorages that
are not described in the other guides. This enables them
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Street's Guides are available
at bookshops and chandleries, or from
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t is sunrise on Carnival Monday, February 4th, 2008, and we have been chip
pingwith our band, Nautica, for two hours. Ci..1, ....- ii. I'. I i... that
Trinis do to music. A good chipper will alwa I .. I ,, found
and the other foot barely above the -1n+ f-r Tard motion is surprisingly
fast. Chipping is hard on the soles I ,, -I. especially around the ball
of your foot.
I chip over to the beverage truck and one of the guys holds up a beer. I mouth
"water". I just can't face a beer at 6:20AM. J'ouvert is the official opening of Carnival. .
The past three weeks of partying was just the warm up and competitions really a
three week party.
The band Nautica has a nautical theme and the overall J'ouvert theme is
"Shipwrecked". What a poor name for a bunch of yachties! I am wearing a '.i,
orange tank top, skimpy shorts with a gauzy orange wrap and an orange .
My husband, Hunter, is wearing an orange T-shirt and shorts. The men's outfits are
very .. md the women's are three sizes too small obviousl--] .7 n I by a
man. ,, both wearing about a cupful of paint on the exposed I I ,, bod





ies. This is "dirty mas" and paint, mud and oil are part of the scene.
-1" I I..- is broken up by wining and jumping up. Wining is short for "winding
S.....I and is performed by gyrating your hips in three dimensions. Wining can
be done alone, but most often ends up with two people wining against each other.
This is not something the North American pelvis is accuston 1 1 -
something you would ever see on North American streets. I c I
butc ... ..... ... .. I i, .. .. I join Hunter in chipping. 1 i i he mud
< 4 .'"'::::L ,. m an, 1 . I ., ...... i i i ... I iead to toe and has a pot I ..... I -. he can
share and decorate others. Paint and mud are fairly innocuous at least compared
to the used motor oil.
j Oops too close to the sound truck. Think boom box on a semi truck. Yes, 18
wheels of sound and we try to keep a bit of distance to keep the sound comfortable.
We are "playing" J'ouvert with about 500 others in our band. There are several other
costumes with the Shipwrecked theme and all are skimpy. When we picked up our
costumes we were a bit surprised to find five condoms in each of our bags. These
were explained by newspaper articles as an effort to reduce the November birth rate.
We chip our way to our rest stop, where we grab a bit of food and look for toilets.
In the full light we examine our arms and legs plenty paint. Hmm... hand prints
on certain topographical features on my chest. Hunter's hands are the same color.
The road is speckled and splattered with paint and mud, and shows the evidence
of a giant street party. There is a paucity of trash cans and Hunter speculates that
the standby used 50 gallon oil drum is not considered excess in a country whose
national instrument is the steel pan.
Our chipping sags as we return to our Mas camp where we are greeted by Jesse
James (the logistical and transportation wizard). Jesse hands each of us a large
trash bag with a hole in the bottom and instructs us to put the bag over our head,
wear the bag with our arms inside and take a seat in the bus. Jesse has years of
experience and t1 i '
We return to I ..'.'I. I- ,I ii I I I, we are anchored and find notes asking
us to kindly w.-, I ."I II II, ,,side shower before entering the inside
showers. By 10:00AM we are back aboard our boat and ready for a nap.
Trinis are proud to host one of the best Carnivals in the world. The preparations
for Carnival for the upcoming yeai I- I, ....i..I ....ival is put to bed.
The festivities for the next year's I ..... .' .... ..I- .ii I, Christmas wrap
ping paper is put in the trash. The word carnival is derived from caree vale" or
farewell to flesh, and the actual Carnival occurs the Monday and Tuesday before
Lent. The month before Carnival is a frenzy of costume, music, Calypso, Soca, limbo,
competitions and is every bit as much fun as the actual two days of Carnival.
I need to tell you that neither Hunter nor I are big partiers; we do not like large
crowds, loud music or staying out late, but we loved Carnival in Trinidad. We sailed
back to Trinidad in early January to ,,i i .. .I ....-.. ~I I . i i that cul
minate in the last few days of CarnivE I ... .., -I I I ...... iandpan
yards. "Mas" is short for masquerade ..... ',".. .... ups made
up of participants who pay for costumes fashioned by a designer. The costumed par
ticipants dance through the streets to the sounds of a steel band or music from a
truck with a DJ this is called "playing mas". A unique feature of this parade is
that locals and tourists alike participate in the parade of bands.
Continued on next page
Dancin' in the street! On Carnival Tuesday 'bands' parade through the streets of Port
of Spain, competing for the title of Band of the Year. The masqueraders mostly
women in colorful beads, sequined bikinis and feathers attract thousands of
spectators. Sound trucks accompany the bands


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Continued from previous page
The Parade of the Bands takes place on Carnival Tuesday. The streets are closed
off and the bands march through the streets of Port of Spain before the judging
stands and past thousands of people. The bands are vying for the prestigious Band
of the Year title. There are lots of "bikinis and beads" as the Trinis say, but there are
a few bands with a serious message. The winning band for this year, "Earth Cries of


Above: The costume of the Queen is larger than life, with wheels to help the wearer
move about on stage
Right: Moko Jumbles are traditional folk characters that dance on stilts
Despair and Wings of Hope", featured the world's ecological disasters, such as oil
spills, and used the children's band to highlight the hope of the future.
T i-t-i;;n to pan music on a CD or radio cannot compare to watching a pan band
i 1 i Carnival. The band is alive. The music is full and the group leader is
directing the band and is one with the music. At times the leader looks like an aer
obics instructor. One of the joys of pan music is just watching the musicians. They
are animated and move with the sound, they are also very diverse. You see men,
women, boys and girls. At the Panorama, the most prestigious steelband compete
tion in Trinidad (and the world?), the youngest player was a nine-year-old girl. She
played flawlessly. The players smile a lot and clearly love playing. We brought binoc
ulars to the events so we could watch the players up i ii.,, the audience
is also great fun. There is a lot of what I call "seat i ... ... i, .- are bobbing,
chairs are rocking and arms are waving. We just could not get enough of the live pan
band music and attended the Panorama Semi-Finals as well as the Panorama finals.
The steel pan is the national instrument of Trinidad & Tobago and Trinis claim
that it is the only new instrument invented in the 20th century. Drums and a vari
ety of percussion instruments have been around for a long time, but it was only after
World War II when oil drums littered the ports of Trinidad that they were cut down
and pounded into shapes that produce distinct tones. Pan music is such an impor
tant part of Trini culture that children learn to play the pans in grade school. Small
bands and pan yards can be found in .- .. .1.1 .1, 1
We went to 11 Carnival events and ii I. i,, I i I* .1 but I think I will
always remember the Red Cross Kiddie Carnival. This is a costume competition
fund-raiser for the Red Cross and the opportunity too for kids to start their carnival
career. The contestants under the age of three, called "Babes in Arms", were very
cute but clearly did not get why they were '--.in t -rtured by hot suits, bright sun
and a crowd. Some of the next group, three I 1 -year-olds, got it and were hav
ing a great time dancing to the music and showing off for the judges and photogra
phers. The older kids were clearly having a grand time and enjoyed being on stage,
in costume and dancing. Don't be thinking Halloween costume -none of us ever
trick-or-treated in costumes this elaborate or grand. These are not bed sheets and


fluffy boas. Each costume had a
name and often they depicted char
actors ol ........ cIr I and histo
ry: crea ... I I and other
animals were popular themes, as
were the different cultures and
roots of the people of Trinidad.
Dimanche Gras on Sunday fea
turned the climax of the compete
d tions, as the Kings and queens of
the various bands vied for the title
of King and Queen of Carnival
2008, and the Calypso artists com-
peted for the title of Calypso
Monarch 2008. We had seen the
preliminaries and felt it was time
well spent to see the full field of
competition. In the finals, several of
the costumes had 1-11d F--t--h
nics and lights. I, 1 e1
.- and Queens are larger than
SI, lisplays of colors, sequins,
feathers, foil and glitter. Most of the
costumes had an added infrastruc
Sure of two or three wheels to help
the wearer move about.
Several of the events were held at
the Queen's Park Savannah, which
has a large stage and covered
grandstand seating. There was food
available and plenty of portable toi
lets and you could leave your seat
and walk into the staging area. It
was really fun to see the kids get
ready for the stage for Kiddie Carnival and to listen to the pan bands warm up I
found this to be a very comfortable venue.
The price of the tickets varied from as little as US$15 (per person) including trans
portation, to as much as US$40. The street parades during the daytime could be as
little as the cost of a maxi taxi. We chose to get seats and transportation for the
Parade of the Bands on Carnival Tuesday and the cost was US$15.
Next year, Carnival will be February 23rd through 24th. The marinas have special
Carnival rates and they do book to capacity, so it is advisable to do your research
and book early. We stayed at the Trinidad and Tobago Sailing Association (TTSA) at
anchor and easily found a place to drop our hook.
The Carnival events start about three weeks before the actual Carnival date. You
can find a calendar and list of events on a variety of websites that will come up in a
simple internet search ......i I me leading up to Carnival, the local newspapers
are a great source of :,,I ......I I ,- upcoming events.
Transportation to evening events is a challenge because we were advised against
taking public transportation at nit't r-i; i ---iti r-up in a hire van is far more
economical than hiring a car and I,1 I 11 ...... There are at least two serve
ices in the Chaguaramas area, Members Only Maxi Taxi and Trump Tours, who help
cruisers with C .....
If you listen I 11 I I on channel 68 at 8:00AM you will hear news about
Carnival events.
We went to several of the daytime events by maxi taxi (public transportation) and
used Jesse's service for the evening events. Jesse James owns Members Only Maxi
Taxi service and spent quite a bit of time helping us decide which events to attend.
Jesse will buy the tickets for the events in advance and tries to get groups to events
early to cl.i 1 T- .1 : t- Treat lengths to ensure the safety of his
clients. I : ....1 ... ... .1 1, ii
Trinis were always friendly and eager to answer our questions and clearly delight
ed that we were enjoying their Carnival. We tried not to carry much cash, but always
had some money for bake and shark, corn soup, snow cones or whatever great street
food we could find.

Devi and her husband Hunter are currently exploring the Caribbean in their sailboat
Arctic Tern.








GRENADA MARINE


Barbados:



t's Worth It!
by Jacquelyn Milman


sailing there from the Caribbean. However, we picked a weather window
with low winds and small seas, and made the trip in a relatively easy
overnight passage from Bequia. We were very happy we did.
Check-in at the Customs and Immigration dock in Bridgetown was simple and
straightforward. 'i ... , .. in Carlisle Bay was good holding in sand, a little rolly
but we put out 1 .. 11 e were able to tie up the 1.1 ... lie inner harbor
next to Independence Square, convenient to the center ol I i. i
One of our first impressions of Barbados was how clean it is. The water is cello
phane-clear and we rarely saw a piece of litter. Even the public bathrooms were won
derfully maintained.
Another impression was of the lack of racial or ethnic tension. People were very friend
ly, helpful with information or problems, and ready to include us whenever we felt dis
posed to join in. The best word I can think of to describe this phenomenon is "peaceable".


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Parliament is a landmark in Bridgetown


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Getting around the island is easy. Car rental companies are numerous, their prices
are reasonable, and they will deliver the car to your choice of location. While this is
usually a hotel, since we were on our boat, we made arrangements to pick up at a
dive shop.
If you would rather not brave the roads on your own, several tour outfits provide
trips to a variety of sightseeing spots. Taxis are plentiful and will also negotiate to take
you around the island, usually at a by-the-hour rate.
But best of all is the bus system. The equivalent of 75 US cents (Bds$1.50) takes
you to the farthest reaches of the island. We asked at the bus depot in Bridgetown
about a bus just to go sightseeing and it was suggested that we take the bus to
Bathsheba, a popular seaside resort and surfing area on the Atlantic coast.
And on Sundays, there is a scenic bus tour. For only US$7.50 per person, we were
treated to five hours of sightseeing. The bus picked us up at Independence Square at
2:00PM. We were surprised ; 1. 1 1 1, 1.. 1 1. ... fellow passengers were all locals;
we were the only outsiders. ,.. I ..... i ... I old people, was in a festive mood;
.. -1. 11 ,, .1, .... 1 .... 1 picnic lunches; there was lots of chatter and laughter.
i .. I i ,,,,. to join in, we were readily included, and people were
i i,.11 i i, we liked Barbados.
i I" -~ I, was a beautiful, windswept area of the eastern coast, at Barclay Park.
Then we proceeded to Cherry Tree Hill, passing through fields of sugarcane and see
11 mills, including one still-working windmill at Morgan Lewis Mill. Cherry Tree
1.11 ...-i to have no cherries, even 1. ...i. endorse were selling cherries at Barclay
Park. Instead there is a large stand i i.. old mahogany trees surrounding St.
Nicholas Abbey, a planter's house built in the mid 17th century.
Then we passed through more sugarcane, some cotton and other agriculture, past
fields of cows and black-bellied sheep (claimed to be the best lamb in the world), to
Little Bay. Little Bay has a rugged coastline with fabulous blowholes. They spouted
and fumed high into the air, sending salt spray back at us on the wind.
Continued on next page


!^.-






Continued from previous page
Our last destination for the tour was River Bay. This cozy spot is a popular park
where dozens of Bajans (pronounced "Bay-juns," the nickname Barbadians call them
selves) were gathered. There were picnic tables and drink vendors, and a music sys
tem set up in .. i i. i ....... ,- as clearly a popular place for a Sunday outing.
On the retur. 'I'1 .. i .. n i. .ii bossy lady in the back of the bus revealed that
she goes on these trips every Sunday, but had missed last week to celebrate her 67th
birthday with family. With that information disclosed, the others on the bus sang
"Happy Birthday". Then the driver put on the speaker system a variety of birthday
songs to which everyone sang i1 . ii 1 ..was taken up for the driver, who told
us he researches the areas ol I I ... i. can provide history and information
about each locale.
It was dark by the time we arrived back ... i . I .... I 11, hole of downtown
was decorated in blue and gold lights in I ... i i .I i independence in
1966. The celebration continues throughout the month of November.
We so enjoyed this trip that we took the one the following Sunday as well. It went
to Foul Bay, passing through a lively tourist area called St. Lawrence Gap, full of
beach parks, hotels, restaurants, and shops. Foul Bay has another beautiful beach
with wind and surf. Then we went to Three Houses Park, so named for the original
three houses that were the only ones there at one time. On the way we passed such
points of interest as a lighthouse, the Silver Sands Resort, and the Concorde Museum
next to the airport, which houses the Concorde in which Queen Elizabeth II came to
Barbados.
We then made a short stop at Codrington College, a non-boarding school for the
Anglican priesthood. The building was completed in 1743. Our final destination was
to be Bath, but our driver, Ronald Marshall, said there was construction there so we


Above:: The Inner Harbour, with a new park on the far side, is part of a river bisecting
the historic capital
Below: You can often see wild green monkeys in the countryside


_- &-A W
would deviate to Bathsheba instead. We'd already been there, but today there was a
surfing competition so there were lots of people, temporary vendor stands, music,
etcetera -a very festive event. We walked around, stopped for a beer, then wandered
back to the bus at departure time.
We did walking tours in Bridgetown as well. The Parliament building is prominent.
Across what is referred to as the inner harbor is Independence Square, once a parking
lot, now a beautiful park. We visited the Nihde Israel Synagogue, founded in 1654, the
earliest constructed temple in the western hemisphere. An interesting place was the
Pelican Art Centre, where local artists have shops. Some, such as a ceramicist and a
woodworker, provide demonstrations.
The University of the West Indies has a branch on Barbados and we took a stroll through
the pretty campus. Cricket is a major sport on Barbados and one can major in Cricket
Management as a career choice.
There are several points of interest around the island. One which we had wanted to
see was Harrison's Cave, where you can take a tram ride through the cave. We'd been
told it is a not-to-miss destination but, alas, it was closed for renovations. We did go
to the Barbados Wildlife Reserve, another place well worth the time. You can walk
through the Reserve and observe the wildlife in their natural habitat. There were
many animals: the Barbados red-footed tortoise, deer, mara (a rodent that looks like
a large rabbit), a variety of birds, caiman, snakes, iguanas, and the green monkey,
brought to Barbados from Africa many years ago. The monkeys were our favorite,
jumping from tree to tree, scampering through the reserve, performing antics to
delight the visitor.
Just opposite the Reserve is Grenade Hall Signal Station and Forest. Grenade Hall
was one of five signal stations that, perched atop various hills, could see each other
.. I I I I ... I signal the comings and goings of ships. The Forest had informative
. ...- I ..1, ... various plants, their history and usefulness.
There are many more places we could have seen and things we could have done,
but one would have to remain for several weeks and we needed to be on our way. But
would we go back? In a heartbeat.


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I ALL AS HORE...0


wo dozen visitors, both "transplants"
I nd locals, meet at the St. Croix East
End Marine Park's new headquarters in
Estate Great Pond plantation. The
Danish colonial ruins have been cleaned
up, patched up and reconfigured to house the
Park administration in the old distillery building
near the stable ruins. An onshore breeze cools """!!
those waiting under a large tamarind tree, one of
four i i....... :orners of a pre-Columbian site dat
ing t .... i Park ranger John Farchette III, a
third-generation Crucian of Italian and Viequense
descent, will lead today's tour to Robin Bay on St.
Croix's south shore, one of several tours the Park
conducts each month to places few tourists visit.
Farchette begins with some background on the
Park, a part of the Virgin Islands Department of
Planning & Natural Resources, Division of Coast Zone
Management The Parks mission is to protect the
island's natural resources, from the high-tide line out
three miles. While the Park has no terrestrial assets,
muchofth 1...1. 1 ii. i...i .. i ... .- .. iby
either the ..... .i ,-i . i I i ...... ..I or
by environmental conservation organizations. Several
distinct ecosystems can be found within the Park,
.. i.. i.... I, ., Salt Pond, Sea Grass and
S centers, summer camps,
children's programs and snorkel clinics are part of the
new outreach effort to increase awareness of the envi
ronment and the importance of its preservation. The
Park website is: www.stxeastendmarinepark.org.






P AW
-


"-BIN BAY


Above: Robin Bay is currently all natural', but 620 acres on the shore are due for
development. Access to the Marine Park will be maintained
Left: Ranger John Farchette III explains the functions of the Marine Park
Established in 2003, the park covers 60 square miles along the shore of St. Croix's
east end, about 17 miles. Legislation was signed in October, 2007, creating rules to
be enforced once signage is complete. Four management zones are marked on maps,
which are also available on-line:
Recreation areas (2.8%) are designated for snorkeling, i ... .1 1. ... i release
fishing, cast net bait fishing, and boating. Recreational line i. -,,,,. i ... -1, is per
mitted within 100 feet of the shoreline.
Turtle wildlife area (7.0%). Three species of sea turtles, Hawksbill, Leatherback and
Green, are federally protected and may not be interfered with in any way. Beach use
is permitted -_1n-lin - hicles, horses, or fires. Gill and trammel nets are prohibited.
No-take - i J are established to protect spawning, nursery and residence
habitat for various species. Swimming, diving and boating are allowed, but not com-
m ercial c.. i .. i i,....
Oper .. .- I I -.... territorial restrictions apply. The only additional
restriction prohibits the removal of coral or live rock.
A short distance east of Park Headquarters, few signs of human enterprise inter
rupt the vista. Their cars parked along Southshore Road, hikers walk toward Robin
Bay's beach, pausing at a freshwater pond lined with black and whit- m-n.r-"
Farchette explains the important functions the mangroves and pond -I .... I .
during oxygen, absorbing and filtering nutrients and sediment the reef can't toler
ate, providing fresh water on saline ground for birds and animals, and protection for
nesting birds and hatchlings. At mid-morning, the pond is peaceful and quiet,
though deer and wading birds have left tracks in the salty, sandy mud.
Continued on next page


I , 1 : 1 1 , .. , , .







Continued from previous page
Looking south from the shore, the next landfall is Venezuela. In fact, Farchette
says, potsherds have been found on St. Croix that are of every pottery style found in
Venezuela, indicating Paleo-Indian habitation. Inland wells provided fresh water to
early populations; settlements have been found at every watergut on St. Croix. He
pauses at one and picks up a piece of pottery. "This one was missed in the archeo
logical survey," he says, and he keeps it hidden for demonstrations. It is made of red
dish brown clay, with an indication of white paint and a burned edge. He suggests
it was part of a ground clay vessel made by the Saladoid (pre-ceramic Orinoco Basin
seafaring people) in the first century BC, and used to carry cassava fiber. He then
explains how raw cassava must be treated and cooked to remove toxins. There are
at least sixty pre-Columbian sites known on St. Croix, some pre-ceramic, and car
bon-dated to 3240BC. Taino, Arawak and Carib were only the last Amerindian
groups to live here. Farchette tells the tale of an Indian woman who shot one of
Columbus's men using an arrow coated with toxic manchineel tree sap when they
were "discovered" exploring Salt River in 1493. Had there been more like her, he
says, we'd be speaking Taino today.


i61















at Estate Great Pond.
deep-l Ae see Rwim. of thee fom r stable
Park headquarters is nearby

Left: Local shermen catching
sprat with a cast net. Fishing for
bait is allowed in the park's
recreation areas


He identifies as a midden or trash dump an earthen area in the trees littered with
deeply imbedded shells and pottery. Much of the pottery is made from caliche, a
white salt water clay used by later groups.
Moving past a line of dried Thalassia grass on the powdery white beach, Farchette
picks up a handful of Halimeda, a green macro algae that synthesizes calcium car
bonate. Paige Rothenberger, the Park's Marine Resource Ecologist, explains that it
turns white and granular after releasing its reproductive spores. Now brittle, it
washes onto the beach where it is crushed into the sandy powder that makes
Crucian beaches so soft and beautiful.
Pointing to the sun drenched surf zone, Farchette indicates what looks like a man
made concrete ledge under the breaking waves. It isn't man made, it isn't rock or
coral, he says, but an outcrop of sandstone. Often found under a beach bordering a
landlocked freshwater pond, sandstone is . .. iI i...... I I ....... i .... on
the pond bottom subjected to pressure frn I .11 i i. .1 ,, li -ed
out under the boundaries.
Down the beach, two local men cast a net and fill a bucket with bait fish, used to
catch snapper and barracuda. Farchette identifies the three inch silvery fish as yel
lowbilled sprat, favorite food for the snapper that come to shore in the evening to
lay eggs before predators arrive. Birds also eat sprat, which breed in the shallows.


When a pond or lagoon closes, due to nature or man, breeding areas vanish. Under
such pressure, some fish species succu ,I i i ...1. ... i .ii .1 ... i even infant
cide. The entire food chain is thereby i........-i I 11 I. .*s of resource
management at Pelican Rock, the decimated sprat population has started to return.
Once, conch and lobster roamed the beaches, says Farchette, but in the 1930s,
when snorkels were developed, fishermen wiped out the near-shore population. Later,
underwater breathing apparatus allowed the fishermen to go further and deeper to
find their prey. Costs went up, but so did prices, and the conch and lobster popular
tion suffered depletion at deeper depths. Like many of the Park resources, this one
needs to be managed before the fisherman's livelihood disappears completely.
Monitoring fisheries, lobsters and coral reefs is an essential ongoing project. A base
line survey is in process, as is a socioeconomic study of the local fishing industry.
Farchette picks up a large almond, though no almond trees are in sight. He says
fruit bats will transport the nuts from trees .----;n inln-l n;-1 drop them as they fly
over the beach. Several bat species live in I .. ... .I i. ,- mosquitoes or fruit.
At the base of a spreading seagrape tree, there is a shallow depression in the sand:
a turtle nest that must not be disturbed. Green, leatherback and hawksbill turtles
S nest on the beaches of St. Cro. 1. ... 1. .h species
has different preferences for I. 1 ... 1. ... the high
- tide line. Survival rates are very low for sea turtles in
tithe natural world, and n-r-n. human population
has reduced the acreage I ... -1,. sites. Turtle eggs
are subject to predation by dogs, mongoose, birds and
crabs. Once hatched, the baby turtles must walk to
the sea under those predators' hungry scrutiny, and
there is no rest there either, as big fish and octopus
', also find the tasty babies easy prey. Farchette relates
that a crab will poke the eyes out of several hatch
1 lin they will walk around in circles until the crab
I.. '****-i them off. There's no stopping the turtles'
S natural enemies, i i i. i Ilm from negative
te. human impact, a., I .-I I .... will survive to
maturity. Vehicles, horses and fires are prohibited on
the beach, to minimize habitat disturbances and tur
tie nest destruction.
Today, Robin Bay is 1 ..- .1 undeveloped. The beach
is nearly pristine and I -.. --ting areas for sea turtles
and 17 seabird species, including t- -;;-l.;-r-1 l-17t
tern. Approximately 400 species of fish rely on the waters within the i i ,
and breeding grounds. There is a strong current in the bay, but the snorkeling is good, and
one can observe . ....... .. i ...... I the reef in the east channel.
The 620 acres i i .- i i I I I.. for development of a resort,
casino and golf course. The Virgin Islands Coastal Zone i ... ... .. ..... .
with monitoring it closely to prevent environmental da... .. I...... ... i .
struction. Access to the Marine Park will be maintained for public use.
Many yachties are environmentally aware -they live close to the ocean and see
firsthand what happens when its ecosystems are not protected. Few, however, get to
see St. Croix's south shore except from a great distance. It is protected by the *'
island barrier reef system in the Caribbean, there are no anchorages east i i
Krause Lagoon industrial area, and the cruising guides ignore the beautiful bays of
the East End's south shore. ... ... .- are being considered for some areas on
the south shore, th-.1h -nt-.... I. ,. I ;;n I -r7i-;n yacht is not recommended.
The East End's r. II -i. .- i .. ... i . offeri... I ... i and the
St. Croix Yacht Club, Green Cay Marina, and several small 111 i weath
er. Buck Island Reef National Monument, another preserve of endangered marine
life, is one-and-a-half nautical miles north of St. Croix.
Visiting the East End Marine Park on foot, and diving or snorkeling where appro
private, is a great way to experience the beauty, earliest history and biodiversity of
this special area. Transportation to the Marine Park can be arranged easily.
Listening to Ranger John Farchette speak of the Park's many wonders is to meet
a passionate Crucian who gladly shares an encyclopedic knowledge of his island.
Tours of other areas within the East End Marine Park include Rod Bay, Great Salt
Pond, Coakley Bay, the Nature Conservancy's Jack and Isaac Bays (www.nature.org),
and the St. Croix Environmental Association's Southgate Coastal Reserve (www.stxen
vironmental.org) at Chenay Bay. For information, call (340)773-3367.
See www.stxeastendmarinePark.org for maps of park zones, restrictions and habi
tat areas, and for an events calendar, programs, local action strategies, and more.


4 t~ir


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Lat. 10 12' 24"N Long. 640 440' '7\\
i' ?


Notes from a



Carriacou Sloop


by John Smith

Needing some slow lane life, and some lobster, Mermaid got underway from
Juangriego, Isla Margarita, bound for Tortuga and then back to Los Roques. Left
Juangriego on Thanksgiving Day, figured that as there was hardly any chance for
turkey or pumpkin pie I might as 1 11 :1 ; ':. l1. .'ks by going out to sea. And with
beer at US$3.50 a case here, carr. I I I Ii. as well.
After almost 31 years aboard the Carriacou-built Mermaid, I have got the major
ty of bugs either in some semblance of order or I have become myopic enough to
overlook them.
Need a next mainsail; will : IL quote from Manfred Dittrich on Hassel Island, St.
Thomas, if he is still in the .11 main industry. In the meantime I am not too par
ticular about the color of my patchwork -my rig like a pair of patched denim jeans
but it will work a while longer if I stay off of the race track and out of storms' way.
-,ii'. ,. i..... ~ierradura on December 3rd, 2007, with absolutely no wind,
S . the northwest, fishermen on the beach, and plenty of mos
I .... 11,I I1 I. ive flown from shore and made Mermaid their home for the
duration. Not many other cruisers here, at a max there have been five boats at a
time, mostly French and Germans, but on weekends there are twice as many local
powerboats from nearby Carenero.
Time passes slowly and smoothly here. Plenty of fish, catching as much as my
crew and I can eat daily. This is the only place where I eat any lobster -amazing
what a six-pack of beer will get you, far from the beaten track!


Mermaid was built at Windward, Carriacou, by Zephrin McLaren in 1964 for
Carriacou Regatta founder J. Lynton Rigg. For many years the 44 foot sloop
was unbeatable

No particular plans, and happy with that. Diving the bottom daily and trying to
clear off the crop of barnacles and other marine organisms that have thrived so well
in the silty waters off of Margarit 11 ..... i. i ,, swell as a source of pearls and
other shellfish, but prior to the :, I i 1 i .. .,, ,,,,. s undoubted
ly difficult for crews who had to contend with the :..... .I. .. i ........ organisms to
their ships' bottoms to make any way to windward. Fortunat 1 i,1 ..1i... down
wind, the effects are not so restrictive, hence the necessity for i. 11 I to pass
through the Yucatan Channel in order to get back to Europe. I hope I do not have to
emulate their efforts, and also hope I will not need another haul-out very soon: my
mainsail is approaching its 20th anniversary aboard and actually is more important
right now than new bottom paint, as long as I stay away from dirty water harbors.
I was at one point very close to '-w-in thE Bequia-built schooner At Last. It went
on the market a few months ago f I '. -- after having been sold five years ago
for US$25,000! It apparently fell into the hands of a young fellow whose habits did
not include boat maintenance. My brother Bruce (of the yacht Woodwind, winner at
Foxy's 2007) who helped finish building At Last, under the tree at the corner near
the Bequia Slip sometime in the mid-1980s, told me the hull was sound, 1 i,
masts and rigging were pretty beat. I did honestly consider it for a while I .. J
not getting any smaller after 31 years, and -approaching my 61st birthday -not
a lot easier), but after more than three decades aboard I have most of the kinks
worked out. I never steer, and although I do a bit of pumping it is really not so much
when I consider how much water surrounds the hull. Seems that the new crowd
have decided that if a boat leaks at all it should be traded in -kinda like when the
ashtray is full on a new car.
Bruce has become very epoxy-oriented, having given away his caulking irons over
20 years ago. (Check out his web page, brucesmithsvoyage.com, if only for the art,
but it also contains .. I 11 ... i -1,,,. blog kept up by my sister-in-law Janet.)
It would be very 1.11. 1 i ... o1 detect any of the improvements Bernard
Compton and Alwyn Enoe and Zephrin McLaren and I have done on Mermaid half
of the bottom replaced, starboard side with mostly dark brown Guyanese silver ball
and port side with red Venezuelan Saqui-Saqui.
Continued on next page


No hurricanes 270sq. miles of calm seas Full amenities
Phone: (58-281) 267-7412 Fax: (58-281) 2677-810 VHF Channel 71 Web page:
http://bahiaredonda.com.ve E-Mail: brmi@cantv.net







Continued from previous page
The garboards I replaced in Florida in 1984 with two-and-one-half inch yellow
cypress. The mast was replaced in 2001 and 1 i I .1 ..- .. mast became a new
boom. The gaff was built under the guidance I I I -I ,,i ,, Sint Maarten of air
craft quality plywood and epoxy, making for a very stiff and light hollow spar. I am
now on my third bowsprit, which, like the mast, f- r" ; .,, i ;, Dozens of new
frames and knees mostly of Carriacou iron r.... I..I .11 I used grown
, ....... i........ itae (Guaiicum officional) for the lodging knees, and many, many
:I I I ...i - threaded rod throughout. Many of these things are hard to see
unless you get aboard and have a crawl through the bilges. Sure I made some mis
takes, but I learned a lot and have replaced all of my serious screw-ups. I think
Zeph, her builder, would still be proud of the old girl, and just because I prefer not
to race with the .,1 ..* 1 -. r St. Maarten Heineken Regatta crowd is no rea
son to condemn 1I.. ... I I1


Now in full time cruising mode, friends help haul Mermaid's anchor as she gets
underway at Juangriego, Isla Margarita, bound for Tortuga and Los Roques


I am trying to fit a few .... I ., i 11, .i ,. ... letters and arti
cles that I think Comp, i ..,1.1 j .. .... i I. 1.1 d times of an
engineless cargo sloop's captain trying to make 1;--n;; i; th- -1- --*-ir of the
20th century. Its all true, and might prove to be i..i I.... hI. II .11 itwas
all abcut -.'. ..i.... and just carrying on. I have carried charcoal, salt, timber,
paint, .I- I I... I. .I .1 I ... .... ) and avocado trees, thousands of small palm
trees, honey, pollen, .- .- you name it, I carried it. Never made much
money, but it was legal and kept me sailing. I bet no one would believe that I used
to sail into the dock in Gustavia, St. Barts, to unload sacks of charcoal and home
made pottery from Nevis (confessions of an old ...... 1 i 11.at when I sailed
into Port Antonio, Jamaica, the first time I was .. ... I I of ironmongery
that I had picked up cheap from the completed dock project in Aruba and had no
problem selling to the local hardware stores.
I believe that Mermaid was one of the last vessels to load salt from the ponds of
Sandy Ground, Anguilla. What a scene it was when I was boarded by a DEA team
in Ponce, Puerto Rico. I mean, 2,000 pounds of white crystals in crocus sacks?
Those folks did not have much sense of humour, especially after tasting a bit from
each of the hundred pound sacks. Not only did the salt help to preserve Mermaid's
wood, it had the added advantage of being able to dissolve. In those days Mermaid
did leak a lot and if she had sunk with a load of salt, the hull would probably have
popped back to the surface in a few days' time! Mermaid never did have much of a
fancy interior, but now that most of my ballast is in the form of a huge library, sink
ing would be a real disaster.
Sending this out to you from aboard the Panda, which came in here a few days
ago. Many thanks to Mike for the fresh water; in places like this I think that I would
prefer a watermaker over an engine -there's plenty of wind and sun for electrical
power. In lieu, I guess I will just have to make do as the Aussies and drink beer, but
beer sure makes toothpaste taste strange. It might be good for boiling shrimps but
is not so good for making pasta.
From here, I will drop back in to Higuerote to re-supply and then sail back out to
Los Roques for a few months.
My best to you all.






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i. ,i...... i I iween Caribbean islands with a favorable tide will make your
*. 1, .... i ...'. )mfortable. The table below, courtesy Don Street, author of
S I 'I1 of Imray Iolaie charts, which shows the time of the meridian
,.11, lie moon for this and next month, will help you calculate the tides.
I '* .,'. generally tries to run toward the moon. The tide starts running to
the east soon after moonrise, continues to run east until about an hour after the moon
reaches its zenith (see TIME below) and then runs we I 1. Ii i,, I .11 .. ..
ii.. I I I ,II I i ir, the tide runs eastward ; I i .... I" ' 1I I
ii I II, 1 .....3 westward Ti... I are local.
S iI .. ........ II is 3 or4 I .11 11i new and fullmoons.
For more Information, see 'Tides and Currents" on the back of all Imray Iolaire charts.
Fair tides!


21 0000 (fu
22 0012
23 0054
24 0136
25 0221
26 0307
27 0356
28 0447
(new) 29 0539
30 0630
31 0721
April 2008
DATE TIME
1 0811
2 0859
3 0946
4 1034
5 1122 (new)
6 1214
7 1309
8 1408


rough the car crash, hospitalization, and a subsequent protracted legal
adventure described in last month's Compass, this former cruiser has "acci
dentally" made Trinidad my home. During the time since, I've watched
Trinidad. After eight years, I'd say there is nowhere else in the Caribbean
with such a booming economy. Yet it is still a charming island of friendly
people who will help you in almost any way possible.


Part Two:



TRINIDA T)D


;V I
A h- ," .J



1,jt


The yachting hub of Chaguaramas is the place to get things done. Although boatyard
and marina fees have increased over the years, prices are still a fiction of those
in Florida


You can get food, hardware, paint, upholstery, tools, and have repairs done on
most things, like alternators and pumps -especially reasonably if you travel
beyond the yacht basin. Almost anything you need can be had at the various serve
ice stores.
In 1999 I wasted a lot of time and i;;. t ; 1 i fr a working pay phone to
check for boat parts. But now, two c ,, .'.. I ' cellular business, so you
can get one inexpensively. (Get two prepaid phones and use them as walkie-talkies!)
There are cell towers everywhere, so reception is good. Almost every Trini is now
addicted to cell phones. Banking has progressed with convenient ATMs.
Restaurants like the Kapok, Jenny's, and CrewsInn have all remained great value
with excellent ambiance. Oriental, Indian (roti), and barbecue are still the most avail
able cuisines. Trinidad's food is the freshest and healthiest of any Caribbean island,
with plenty ( .., 1,.1. s. Upscale nightspots like 51 Degrees and Zen have
replaced the I I I 1 ...' Club. Mas Camp Pub is now De Nu Place and still the
place to see quality calypso performers at a reasonable cost. Unfortunately, the cost
of a beer (Carib) has doubled. Quality live stage dramas and comedies are available.
McDonald's has disappeared, but Subways are everywhere. Kentucky Fried has
multiplied. Pizza Boys, Joe's and Mario's offer adequate pizza with Stateside new
comers Domino and Papa John. What is new is coffee. When I first arrived, Nestles'
Nescafe was the only game in town, but tasty. Then, Nestles had the finely powdered
rocket-fuel caffeine, since evolved to larger particles. Ritual Coffee shops are every
where. Relaxing in an air-conditioned shop reading the many Trini daily newspapers
i i,, .... .i kmericano is as good as it gets at ten degrees north.
1 1.1 -i ,' I Long Circular have become extravagant. In 2000, I could get
a box lunch with a Coke for TT$8 at West Mall. You'd be lucky to get the box for that
now. The HiLo grocery stores in Cocorite and West Mall are expansive with excellent
selections. For unique food items check out Peppercorns in the mall.
Movietown -. tl- -- t;i--. ..It .; where movie fare is as the States. A great
bargain still ,.- .1 11, I .1 On Tuesdays, usually two first-run movies
with Dolby sound only cost TT$5 a person! When we are on island, we do the noon
show every Tuesday. Popcorn and drinks are very inexpensive.
Trinidad has the best radio of any island I know. Great vintage calypso and steel
drum music can be heard on 94.7. Your TV antenna should pick up five TV stations.
Channel Six has an uninterrupted late movie every night. It is also on the radio at
87.8 FM.
Continued on next page


March 2008
DATE TIME
1 0656
2 0748
3 0841
4 0932
5 1022
6 1110
7 1158
8 1246
9 1335
10 1426
11 1521
12 1620
13 1721
14 1823
15 1924
16 2021
17 2123
18 2202
19 2247
20 2330







Continued from previous page
Boatyards and Marinas
Inflation is rampant in Trinidad, but the cost of labor is still reasonable and the
yacht-service workforce is now better trained. Boatyard and marina fees have
increased dramatically in eight years, including increases for air-conditioning and
dehumidifier units. 1i i 1.. i1 .. is checking fees, which used to be a one-time
payment. IMS curt ,11 I I Ihe stands on a quarterly basis, Power Boats
charges monthly, and Peake's has a daily fee. All offer free electricity and water as
long as you don't live aboard.
Despite the increases, a top-shelf marina at Chaguaramas, with all the amenities,
charges about half what it would cost to dock in Florida. Today, all yards and mari
nas have better services and security. Check with each yard for specific regulations
and costs before hauling.
Boatyard personnel haven't changed much. Chuck and Joann are still managing
IMS and Don Stollmeyer i.= :;;i-l; Power Boats. The Lancers, with right-hand man
Wayne, offer good value ... i i'.. 11 assistance at Tropical Marine. Carl is still on
the docks at Crewslnn.
Sails restaurant, at Power Boats, is the new sundowner hotspot, The Bight at Peake's
remains excellent, and the pool tables at Tropical Marine's Wheelhouse are busy.
Hummingbird Marina is completely remodeled and a great place to get fresh seafood.


Once away from the urban areas, Trinidad takes on a different look

I i. I I .ie and Dynamite Marine Services have expanded, to every sailor's
Si'i i. "... 1. ....-....1 ; I 1. .1 you need when you need it. Customs
.. I ........ I .. .. -1 ,11 1 .. II ... I II . TT Post, the postal service, is efficient
and all services can be had at Coral Cove Marina. TT Post offers an insured "quick
service" that competes reasonably with Federal Express.
Getting Around
When you need a break from the boatyard, first purchase a good map at one of
the bookstores.
Like any big city or island, there are sections that are dangerous. Ask people where
r, I believe them. Tuck in your gold chain and keep a grip on your bag.
I, "" ii., were areas to be avoided, and they have expanded, as has traffic con
gestion. I've never felt racial tension in Trinidad, as I have on some other islands,
but I don't feel totally safe here anymore. I'm constantly wary of my surroundings
and people. I wouldn't walk alone in the parks these days and definitely not walk
home late at ni.i.i I 1 .. with a slinged arm. Today I'd be easy -i-l-i;
(I blame it on I i ... .. I mass destruction, cocaine.) But it is -1 .1
enough to travel around and see the sights.
Traveling by taxi or maxi is easy, perhaps the easiest and least expensive of any
where in the Caribbean. Always make certain it is a legitimate vehicle for hire, noted
by the identifying "H" (hire) plate. "P" (private) cars are peoFpl tr-'in to earn extra
cash. Scrutinize the driver c I I - . .. I i1 11. : .. .11 toyourdes
tination. From Chaguaramn II .'. I ....... i. I I- in the main city, Port of
Spain: Green Corner and City Gate.
Green Corner takes you to the heart of the capital where you can find good and
inexpensive dentists, doctors, shopping, and cinemas. City Gate is the main trans
fer hub and from there you can get a maxi taxi to almost anywhere in Trinidad. If
your driver takes chances with your life, have him stop, and get out. Another car for
hire will be along in a few minutes. Taxi fares have only marginally increased.
Rental cars have almost doubled in cost from TT$90 (US$14.50) a day to TT$175
(US$28) and upward. Gas is reasonable at TT$9 (US$1.50) a gallon. {We recently
rented cars in St. Lucia and Grenada -the gas cost more than the rental!}
Driving in Trinidad has always been thrilling. In eight years the roads have
widened by one lane, but the number of auto owners has almost doubled and Trinis
are still litterbugs, knowing the roadsides are regularly cleaned. These are com-
monsense warnings while -ri-nin- Keep your jewelry to a minimum and your doors
locked. Never even think I I i ... up a hitch-hiker. Locals know they will seldom
see a police officer interested in their speed or maneuvers in traffic, so be cautious
and sober on the roads. Buckle up, it's common sense and the law.
Timing is i..... specially in Trinidad's traffic. Start your trips after 9:00AM
and try to 1., P... ort of Spain during rush hour (from 4:00PM till 6:30). The
morning traffic is coming into the capital and the evening's is exiting. The road to
Chaguaramas is packed in the evening, as there is only one road to the commuter
suburb of Diego Martin and it is crammed with cars. Go to the beaches on weekdays
and avoid the weekend crowds.
Trinidad has two main expressways. The Churchill Roosevelt Highway runs east to
west and the Uriah Butler Highway intersects and heads south. Every corer of the
island has a unique personality. From Port of Spain westward to Chaguaramas is urban.
Follow the east-west Churchill Roosevelt Highway to where it intersects with the
Butler at a bulging mall, Grand Bazaar. This is an excellent place to provision at
Extra Foods.
The first exit on the southbound Butler expressway is for the Caroni Swamp,
where flocks of Scarlet Ibis can be viewed every evening. Boat trips to see the birds
are worth it.
Farther south along the Butler, at the Medford exit is another Pricemart Plaza that
is less pressure and price than Movietown. It has a Friday's and Ruby Tuesday
restaurants. For those who still wonder "Where's the beef?", there is also a Burger
King. On the other side of the flyover (overpass) is the best deal for lunch in Trinidad,
The Foodbasket. This is an excellent place to come to refill both galley and belly.
Above the spacious, very reasonable grocery they have a delicious weekday buffet
lunch for TT$25. Abit further south is Chaguanas, a great place to reasonably refill
your clothes locker.
Continued on next page


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Just you and the bamboo. Tinidad's interior provides great getaways
from boatyard lfe
Use your map and wind eastward through Erin and Moruga to Rio Claro and to
the southeast point of Mayaro. This is on the Atlantic side and Mayaro is a tourist
center with plenty of guesthouses. Drive north, since that's the only road, along a
palm-lined coast to another tourist center, the beach at Manzanilla. There are inex
pensive guesthouses available. On the rise leaving the beach towards '~-n.r
Grande is The Last Stop, an excellent place to get a local favorite snack ol -1.
and bake". Follow that road and it will take you to the Churchill Roosevelt and back
w e 1 i ,i ,. .... ... .-
I f i ... p ... and eastern parts of Trinidad are still "old style" rural, with
only a few oil and gas pipes visit]i '; r-.;-;- fi-l-l- .-1 ti,- g-lar industry have
almost vanished. There are a lot oi -... 11 .1 1 ... I i ...i. I -I -. along the routes.
Fresh fish, shrimp, crab, fruits and t .1-1 can easily be purchased at roadside
vendors. Always try to pull entirely 11 i I safely or go on to the next vendor.
North Coast Day Trips
The road from Port of Spain to the north coast is another weekday trip.
Maracas Bay, the best known of any Trini beach and home to numerous shark and
bake vendors, is packed on weekends. Trinis love to eat and drink while at the
beach. Scotch is the beverage of choice. Designated drivers haven't really made it
yet, neither has the Breathalyzer or the radar gun. The roads are narrow and the
drop offs steep and deadly.
Beyond Maracas is Las Cuevas Beach, the calmest and clearest. This incredibly
scenic road will take you to another great beach at Blanchisseuse where a river
enters the ocean. This is a great spot for a picnic, or look for Fred's place for a superb
lunch and cocktails.
If you aren't exhausted and the sun is still high, take the road across the moun
tain to Arima. This route will pass the Asa Wright Nature Centre, famous for bird
watching. Excellent meals and accommodations are available at the Centre.
Once in Arima, the Churchill Roosevelt will bring you west again. Arima also has
an excellent horse track for monthly races (especially on Boxing Day).
One of the finest of Trinidad's road trips is to Toco on the northeast point. Follow
the Churchill east to Valencia but take a left, rather than following it to Sangre
Grande. Sections of this road are under repair, but it is also the main access to
the quarries. Expect to see many dump trucks, but the drivers are usually cour
teous and safe. This road is incredibly scenic. The drive will pass an excellent
beach and river intersection at Salybia, and a protected leatherback turtle nesting
area at Ballandria.
Gas is available in Cumuna, as is great local food at the Blue Restaurant. The
lighthouse at Toco is a definite Kodak moment. Follow the road to Sans Souci and
many excellent, relatively deserted beaches. Break Bay in Sans Souci is the only
surfing beach in Trinidad. Grande Riviere is another tourist enclave with upscale
restaurants ... i .- i..... -ssociated. This road ends in Matelot, a traditional fish
ing village, ,1 1 I 11, unbelievably picturesque Shark River, a great place to
bathe in fresh water.
The northeast coast is one of the few remaining parts of "antique Caribbean"
Trinidad, while the remainder tries to accelerate into the modern first world. In the
north, banana farmers still haul bunches off steep hills on their heads or on don
keys. This area is still relatively safe and reminds me of Jamaica in the early
Seventies. Everyone is friendly and helpful to tourists. You'll hear soothing reggae
rather than pounding hip-hop.
"Forget about governments and world problems, be wary of crime, and be happy"
should be Trinidad's 2008 motto. In Trinidad, a true melting pot, everyone, Indian,
Chinese, African, Continental and Latino, seems to get along. Sports like cricket and
especially soccer are a great common denominator. Carnival every spring is the
mainstay of the culture. Petroleum and ..,,, .1 ;- .. 11 I .-otectors of the econ
omy. Enjoy the beautiful vistas and the :.. ... i .1 ........ but be careful.
In every perspective, Trinidad has gooo .1i. I 11. I .... buck, with inexpen
sive escapes from yard and yacht drudgery.


Continuedfrom previous page
South, farther along the Butler, is San Fernando ("Sando"), the home of great
hardware stores and specialized gasket and hose vendors. The suppliers of the oil
and gas companies are there. Driving here is best left to a guide, as no street seems
direct. A great restaurant is Uncle Sam's, close to the Butler exit. For a totally styl
ish lunch or dinner, do Soon's Great Wall. It is "the place" to celebrate an occasion.
Jenny's original restaurant is also in Sando.
Southern Getaways
Trinidad's Tourism Department is located in Port of Spain and has excellent infor
mation available. They supply a booklet of available "registered" guesthouses all over
the island. So if you want to get away from your boat or the yard, take a longer road
trip. You won't be sorry.
Pertinent direction signs have been installed. Follow the main road to Pointe-a
Pierre and the Wildlife Trust for sedate birdwatching. Follow the same road through
huge coconut estates to Icacos on the island's southwest point. It is a usually quiet
village on the Gulf of Paria. If you arrive in the early afternoon you might be able to
get a deal on some fresh fish.


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St. Maartcn

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Suppliers of Donaldson Filters

Cel: +599 552 7645
Phone/fax:- +599 544 2320


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Welcomes you to
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A stepping stone as you
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Come alongside our splendid jetty and replenish your
supplies of FUEL, OIL, WATER and ICE
at the cheapest prices in the Grenadines.

Call sign: "Golf Sierra" VHF channel 16
For further information call Glenn Clement or
Reynold Belmar. Tel/Fax: (473) 443-9110
^~ -













UHY DO YOU LIKE



TO BE A SAILOR?

by Anne Hjaelmso


r many years we cruised the Scandinavian
waters during our summer holidays, but 15
years ago, my husband, Jens-Peter, said,
"Let's go sailing for three months."
I answered him that it was impossible because of
our four grown children, the little one, our parents, my
job, and the fact that I often get seasick.
"Is that all?" he said.
A few months later we were on our way from






I flike Iel'g cl Sc ulnr

cindl Scidig ,nII the Itef) fitc lla

blhe Se'ri )Ill Ill ])prill'llrl[ .

I like jbeling a x ]irl

of lhe Saillilg Coll n tlli llll


Denmark to Mallorca through the canals and rivers of
Germany, Luxembourg, Holland and France. Our
grown-up children were happy alone; the youngest
was with us. The parents just wished us luck, and my
colleagues said they would look forward to seeing me
again. And I did not get seasick (until we reached the
Mediterranean). Everything was good.
When we got back, my husband started to talk about
a new dream: the Caribbean islands. I started up with
the same old song, but he laughed. I don't know how
he managed to get me to believe in his idea.
But one day we had ; .t good-bye party. The Bay
of Biscay was not too :.. .. 11 and I was seasick, yes.
We saw Europe from the ocean side and visited big


and small places on our way. We sailed south until the
butter melted, and then turned west. We went from
Sao Antau (one of the Cape Verde islands) to
Barbados. In fact, we crossed the Atlantic in only 11
and a half days, a fact that my husband is always
happy to discuss when asked.
We did arrive in the Caribbean islands. It was back
in 1998.
And we are still here! We love it. We love to sail from
island to island, to visit new places and go back to the
old. We have met so many beautiful people, and made
a lot of friendships. Normally we are in Denmark for
nine months and here at the sunny islands for three.
What a wonderful life!
But every December, I start up with the old song:
What about the children (and now grandchildren), the
parents, my job? Anyway, the little one is now more
than two metres tall, all of them live in their own
homes, our parents are still going strong. And my
work? I have changed my work. Now my job is to write:
I am an author. I won a short story contest, my first
novel is published and sells well, and some Danish
magazines like my short stories: they buy them and
publish them. This is my new job. And this job, I can
do wherever I am in the world.
But still landlubbers ask me: Why do you like to be
a sailor? Let me tell you the truth:
Yes, I like being a sailor and sailing on the beautiful
blue sea, but in particular I like being a part of the
sailing community: people of all ages and colours of
skin, every sex and occupation, rich and poor, all
nationalities. These people are peacefully helping each
other with a big smile and small (and sometimes big)
presents. If they catch a fish, they share with the
neighbours. When they bake a cake, they cut it in
pieces and give to the others around. And everyone
knows how nice it is to get to a marina and see hands
are ready to help you in and fasten your boat. Do you
need a screw or a bolt? You can always get it from the
boat next to you.
Last year in Curacao a competent Spanish lady gave
free Spanish lessons to all who were interested. Today
my neighbour had classes on his boat, teaching three
1ril-;11-- 1.: : -m -- -i-up cruisers the best methods
( I 1. .. I i ..... i.-1 He (of course) told them sto
: i .1 .i i .. i.-1, i had caught, and they learned
i .... i -1..... equipment themselves.
You know, I could continue this list, but you already
know: Sailors are friends. Sailors make peace, not war.
So, don't ask me again if I like being a sailor: I love it!
And yes, I still get seasick sometimes, but there will
always be snakes in paradise.
Anne Hjalmso is cruising the Caribbean aboard the
yacht Rumkath.


IHranqESTAURA i



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D-on'I mss
omf-Tcimous barbecue wmd
jump up 7tr-sda~ nkigfs!

Tel: (784) 458-3255
E-mail: reservations@frangipanibequia.com


Fax: (784) 458-3824
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Baic Keelboar Jr rn Maritime C(-
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E-mail: kpmarine@caribsurf.com
P.O. Box 17, Kingstown





























MARCH 2008


Y ARIES (21 Mar 20 Apr)
Your sense of humor may jump overboard around the
17th, followed by your business plans on the 20th. Don't
worry -your love life will come to your rescue.
d TAURUS (21 Apr 21 May)
Ease your sheets. This should be a time of relaxation for
you; enjoy it!
I GEMINI (22 May 21 Jun)
It's a fun month for you, too: a good time to get togeth
er with friends and have a picnic at the beach.
CANCER 0 (22 Jun 23 Jul)
Your sense of humor is still on vacation around the 17th
but business will get a lift from a woman friend or a love
interest around the 20th.
Q LEO (24 Jul 23 Aug)
You, too, will get a break from the stresses of the sea
faring life. Invite friends aboard for a party or day sail.
T VIRGO (24 Aug 23 Sep)
Be ready to reef the main. There may be squalls with a
love affair or female crew from around the 7th through the
end of the month.
^ LIBRA (24 Sep 23 Oct)
Keep things light and have some fun this March. Don't
let petty arguments blow you off course.
TL SCORPIO (24 Oct 22 Nov)
Though your business may be in the doldrums around
the 20th, your social life will be on an incoming tide,
bringing with it a potential romance.
SAGITTARIUS (23 Nov 21 Dec)
While it seems everyone else's social life is under full
sail, yours will meet some choppy seas and fluky winds
this month.
6 CAPRICORN (22 Dec 20 Jan)
Business is still a slog to windward and may make you
cranky. Try to concentrate on the positive so as not to put
a counter-current on the entire month.
^ AQUARIUS (21 Jan 19 Feb)
Life for you this month will be a pleasure sail. Take
some time off to spend with those whom you enjoy and
regain strength for the future.
PISCES (20 Feb 20 Mar)
Your love life will dominate your thoughts and ener
gies at this time and will bring a freshening breeze to
your business.


JslanJ Poets










fiskcales



We breakfasted on fishcakes
And indescribable coffee.
My roof is open to the rain;
It beats with the aggressiveness
Of freedom.

With feet planted firmly
On the ground, they ask
If I mind the roll? I am
Not particularly attached
To gravity, and marvel
At their concern.

I have no need
Of their heaven.
I could create fifty better
On one night watch.


And of heaven?
Camels through eyes of needles
And such? No need,
No miracle required.
We have the night to ourselves.
Forever changing
Forever the same.
Like fire. Like clay.
Like life.

There is not an ounce
Of sense in any of it.
Surely Earth does not need
Our feeble stirring.

And so, my poem
Is concerned only with
A song about an idiot
And a king.
People were made
To talk to one another.


SJohn A. Smith


C 4


Crossword Solution
ACROSS 31) MOUSE 13) MONKEY
1) CARDINAL 33) FISH 14) PAWS
6) HADDOCK 37) PARROT 16) GOAT
7) HARE 38) EAGLE 17) CATROPE
8) BEE 39) HORSE 19) HOUND
12) NEST 20) SWALLOW
13) MINNOW DOWN 22) COW
15) A RAT 2) APE 24) ERNE
16) GOOSENECK 3) AH 26) BIRDS
18) SHEEPSHANK 4) LARK 28) SPIDERS
21) EATEN 5) TEREDO 30) OSPREY
23) GULL 6) HEN 31) BEAR
25) BOOBY 9) BEETLE 33) STEER
27) CROWS 10) STAG 35) MULE
29) DOG 11) FOX 36) FLY








na~pass ran~ising axssuord


1 2 3 4 5 6

7

8 9 10~ 11

14



15 1 16 1 17



18 19 20 21


24 3
23 2 4 2 5 2 16

27 2

39 30

31 ~ 32 1 33 1 34

35 36

37938
MEMEMMEME ME39


parlumps marooned


'ANIMALS ABOARD'
ACROSS
1) North, south, east and west are points
on the compass
6) Species of cod
7) Sea : a type of hull- ........ ... u.. .
8) Piece of wood attached tc -. I 1 .1
12) 27 Across : observation platform
13) Smallest bait fish
15) 'I smell
16) Fitting attaching boom to mast
18) Knot to take up slack in a line
21) 33 Across are by 26 Down
23) Noisy sea bird
25) Blue-footed
27) Black birds
29) -house: small structure on deck
31) Type of fine baggywrinkle
33) To splice a broken spar by placing splints over
the break
37) Pirate's pet
38) Sea : Manta ray
39) Footrope in the yards of a square rigger

DOWN
2) Deck hand
3) Sound before "ha!"
4) Small boat
5) Wood-eating sea worm
6) Sea : grey gurnard
9) Shipwright's heavy mallet
10) Rock to be watched out for
11) Rope yarn used for seizing
13) 's fist: woven knot on end of heaving line
14) Ship's cat's feet
16) An animal of the Zodiac
17) Line for hauling cat hook
19) Trestletree support
20) ___-tail: points of a burgee
22) _hitch: slip knot
24) Lee Bradford: nautical author
26) 1 Across, 23 Across, 25 Across, 27 Across, 36
Across, 37 Across, 4 Down, 6 Down, 20 Down and
24 Down are all
28) Hoops around mast to attach futtock shrouds
30) Sea hawk
31) To up is to come into the wind
33) Control helm
35) Animal that pulled barges on Erie Canal
36) Compass card
Solution on page 38


NAUTICAL FACTOIDS

scuro ,e ik? _Po s

to me more \N\ joQ

never t ihe hanq
of a toothbrush.


There are many documented counts of

insurance fraud among old time sailors.


r5~
..

























All the fish who made their home inside and under
the shipwreck on the re f ..; 1 that there was no bet
ter place to be. It was .1 .i as comfortable, it was
beautiful. This particular shipwreck happened to be
just off the calm western coast of lush and mountain
ous St. Lucia. In fact, this wreck hadn't been wrecked
on the reef at all, it wE- ... i i ..i 11 had been
towed there and sunk .1 .- i i r fish and
an exciting dive for enthusiastic scuba divers. The
wreck sat upright on the sand on the edge of the reef
and over the years it had attracted all sorts of colourful
and fabulous sea creatures. Most people would have
said the wreck was covered in plants but those lacy fans
glowing deep gold and burnt orange that wave about in
the sea currents on the hull are animals. That's right,
tI- .r-li-i -f tti- -- .re mostly animals -not the
Si i i .- i i .il. No, these animals are tiny,
i i I i Ii catch even tinier creatures
that drift by. And the coral structures they live in? Well,
they make them with their own "spit".
Deep inside the hull is an enchanting "apple blos
som" orchard of soft corals -telesto really -and you
would think that you had entered an enchanted gar
den the moment you saw it. What with all the sponges,
from the golden trumpets of the tube sponges to the
cobalt blue, red '' i 1 I .. .... I -I ..- sponges,
the green and gcoi i i,,. ... .nd all the
gorgeous sea rods, why, no wonder the fish thought
that they lived in paradise! And just think, all these
fish and sea creatures were the best of friends and
helpful neighbours. Morry, our Moray, was a big,
strong, olive green eel, one of the largest types of eels
you will see on the reefs. Morry had been taught by his
mother when he was only a little eel how to hide in the
smallest cracks and joins of the wreck during the day
and how to slither out at night and find his dinner.
But as Morry grew and his teeth grew with him, so he
ventured out during the day, too. Sometimes he hung
about and let the divers have a good look at him. One
of the divers was bold enough to stroke his smooth


skin but he opened his wide mouth and looked so
menacing that the diver swam off in a fright. Morry
laughed to himself and felt very powerful. As time went
by, and Morry came out more and more from the home
that he had made for himself under the hull of the
wreck, so the divers began to look for him. Morry felt
himself swell with pride and he became very vain.
Living in her own space
under the hull was Gilda, a
Scarlet Glassy-Eyed
Snapper with silver shad
ows across her scales and
she warned Morry that he
was getting too big for his
fins. Indeed all the yellow
and black banded Sergeant iOl71
Majors that swam about the
wreck, as well as the crim-
son Soldier Fish with their 'le
big, black eyes, warned
Morry that pride is all very (Clld let
well, but you know what
comes before a fall! Morry / .L r((
knew that with one swish of ll' (I J
his powerful body he could
knock any interfering fish to
kingdom come, so he just
tilted his head higher and
told them they were jealous.
Morry soon began to
explore the wreck. He decid
ed that this was great fun
and so he went further and
further in his daily travels until he knew all of the
wreck, the decks, the hold, the engine room so well
that he now regarded the entire wreck as his kingdom.
H e e, 1. .... ., I .. .11 i ... ... I . .... 1. oughh
th e i 1 1 - ... . I ,. I .. I I I .1 ., T h e
fish living so peacefully' -f- 1 .'-1 to fear that Morry
would evict them. Bu I .i I everyone, Morry


I C^IIIBTIRUI KIS' ORE


et



tlh

rl


Tker Suwvreck a4td




M rry Lkee Moray


by Lee Kessell


Robotic submersibles can take pictures of the deep ocean where humans can-
JI ff not reach.
S . ... Scientists are ..... ...... .. ...truments that can be carried by special
balloons into the ..I I i.,,.... so that the air and sea conditions there
% can be measured.
Sj/ Scientists on research ships can take samples of water directly from the sea
c and study the distribution of marine species. They can even find the DNA
Sequencing in marine micro-organisms for better identification of each species.
Sonar is used to show the whereabouts of schools of fish. It is also used to map
Sthe contours of the sea floor.

DOLLYIS DEEP SECRETS live, how and where they migrate and how far they travel.
What is important now is to make sure that all the information obtained from these
monitoring systems is available to everyone who needs to use it. That's why all those
by Elaine Ollivierre scientific ,;;i :; ;;;:t -- t --tl-rt- --li,.t their activities and work towards
the goal ...... i i .... .. observation system.

If you attempted last month's guessing game to find the names of some of the Word Puzzle
organizations involved in oceanographic studies, you will know how many differ Unscramble the following to make words you can find in the text above. What
ent groups there are. A real alphabet soup! But this shows how important scien do the answers have in common?
tists think it is to monitor the state of the oceans of the world.
So, what do they use to do the monitoring? Here are some of the methods used. 1. TICESSINTS
Satellites moving in orbit around the earth contain instruments that make 2. EPISCES
observations about the ocean surface. They can see whether seas are rough or 3. YINSTAIL
calm. They can measure the extent of ice cover at the polar regions and they can 4. FACRUSE
show surface currents. 5. RATTYASION
Stationary buoys have been moored at various locations, especially in tropical 6. LISTETALE
latitudes, to measure the physical and chemical properties of the sea around 7. MAPLESS
them. Pressure gauges left on the sea floor can detect changes around them and 8. QUINGSCENE
I gi- "-".-;in -f possible tsunamis. 9. DUSTISE
,,,,,robot monitors measure pressure, salinity and temperature in 10. COSHSOL
the sea. They can dive down and take measurements below the surface, and then
they bob up again and transmit their readings via satellite. Answers on page 43

-I _-- -- - -- --m-- mJmm m m m m m


found a particular spot on the wreck that he had over
looked. It was an oiutird pqee-qr.r'- along the same
deck as the "apple i - ... h.. I As he had slith
ered along this passage before he had failed to look up
but this particular day he glanced at the ceiling and
was immediately spellbound. He could see his own
reflection! Yes, the air breathed out by the divers had
formed an air pocket up there and the undersurface
was as bright and polished as a mirror. Oh, Morry
gazed at his magnificent self and fell in love. He could
not drag his eyes away! He hung his full five feet down
vertically, something that eels never do, so that he did
n't have to strain his neck by looking up. Morry hung
there until the sun went down over the mountains and
the wreck became a dark cavern. Morry pulled himself
together then and went off to hunt down his dinner.
The next morning Morry was back underneath his
mirror and every day thereafter, that is where you
would find him. The divers found him and he became
the talk of the diving world, and of course of the fish
world, too. The inhabitants of the wreck didn't want
such attention as many of the divers were clumsy and
broke up their coral and sponge homes. One night after
a meeting with all of the
residents, Gilda, the
Glassy-Eyed Snapper,
Charlie the leader of the
Soldier Fish and Sid the
spokesman for the
Sergeant Majors, went to
Morry as he lay resting in
ii17ltS his sand home under the
hull and told him flat out
I I ', i- that he was a menace to
everyone's peace and com-
fort and should stop his
( (liters nonsense and go back to
being a proper Moray Eel.
,1,I l 1i7 It had no effect on Morry
kat all, in fact he nastily
spat at them and bared
his fangs. Well, not too
long after this, three divers
with spear guns swam
into the wreck when no
one else was about and
together they speared poor
Morry. One got him in the
head, another in the chest
and the last in his elegant, long body. Powerful Morry
put up a good struggle but he was mortally wounded
and the fight was over quickly. The spear fishermen car
ried off vain Morry in triumph as their trophy.
Well, the moral of this story is as plain as the nose
on your face....
THE END








An tS



filx


by Bob Williamson
Alice was a small boat dog of mixed parentage but mostly terrier. She belonged to
Vadim Ulianov and they both lived in St. Martin. She had been born on a coastal
boat and had spent most of her life aboard various tugs and boats with only human
friends. In fact, she was always suspicious of the 1. I -i. .. et on various trips
ashore in dinghies, much preferring the comic ., I I speciall- ..- -
Vadim's pals. They all thought highly of Alice and began calling her E.T. ...
he. -...... 1 amazing talent for communication .
i .a i I example, Vadim's girlfriend, Marisol, telephoned him to say that she
was at their apartment about two miles down the coast and had forgotten to bring
her key. Vadim was in the middle of a job and couldn't spare the time to bring the
key to her, so Marisol said "Give the key to Alice and tell her to bring it to the apart
ment.
Vadim thought this sounded a bit tricky, so Marisol asked to speak to Alice, whom
she called Alisky which she thought to be a more suitable Russian name. The dog
was, by the way, fluent in French, English and Russian.
Alice listened intently to Marisol's directions, which included a reminder that the
apartment was above Alice's favourite restaurant where she was always given
immense quantities of chicken bones. Vadim attached the key to Alice's collar and
said Right. Off you go. Don't wander around -go straight to Marisol, and come
straight back."
The dog was back quite quickly, just a minute or two after Marisol had telephoned
Vadim to say she now had the key.
Alice was well used to going for rides on Vadim's motorcycle never by herself,
mind you, but balancing between Vadim's arms. Wherever she went, generally to
parties ashore, Alice would sit between Marisol and any potential suitor, guarding
Marisol as if her life depended on it. And on most return trips to their boat, Alice
would steer the dinghy by various clever nudges, in order to visit other boats where
there was any possibility of there being a party on board. Once in a while Alice would
get a little drunk and you could always tell if there was only one ear sticking up
the other having passed out cold. She was the original party animal.
Sadly, Alice crossed to the other shore when she was only a bit more than five
years old. She was sorely missed by all her many friends, who all hoped she had not
arrived in Dog Heaven but rather to one inhabited by human beings. She's proba
bly sitting right now at God's feet, waiting for the occasional chicken bone.


THF T FLIT BOOK.S OF LAGOONIEEILLE


A series of unique
action adventures
mixed with crime,
thriller and voodoo
genres.


57 Water island
Vin, slaudsh 00102
Tel: 340-779 19P1
Fax: 340 779 2705
EmailU exrk@kslas..vi
LaeOOnieviUe 1 Two Virgin Island boa bums dis-
cover Iheir dreams can come Irue when they find an au-
thernic map to a treasure buried lor centuries Their
dreams unlornunately. turn to nightmares when they
musl endure a super hurmcane thwart a sneaky gang of
smugglers survive a devastating plane cash rn a
haunted Costa Rican jungle evade murderouS mob.
sters and escape the rage of the devil in the lorm of an
ex- tfe jusl 10 survive



S"It's a very
informative source I
Sof 'goings on'
I in the Caribbean
I boating world."

| Nancy H. Bennet
SCalifornia, USA

F- --------- -I
SJoin our growing list of on-line subscribers!
12 issues US$29.95, 24 issues US$53.95
Same price, same content faster delivery!

Swww.caribbeancompass.com




Read in Next Month's Compass:

Guadeloupe to Montserrat... by Paddleboard!
Sailing Directions: Leaving the Caribbean
Cruisers' Angel Falls Adventure
... and more!
















Trees of Cuba by Angela Leiva (tmranslated by Juliet Barclay), photos by Gonzalo Canetti. Macmillan Caribbean
Natural History. G2007. Paperback, 106 pages, color photos throughout. ISBN 978 1 4050 2905 6.
Flowers of Cuba by Angela Leiva (translated by Juliet Barclay), photos by Gonzalo Canetti. Macmillan Caribbean
Natural History. G2007. Paperback, 112 pages, color photos throughout. ISBN 978 1 4050 2904 9. 7.50.

The'-t -land in the Caribbean by far, Cuba is
also o], I 1I. most richly endowed islands in the
world when it comes to flora. According to Trees of
Cuba, there are around 7,000 native plants growing
here in a wide diversity of eco systems, soil types and
altitudes. Although Cuba has suffered tremendous
loss of habitat in its history, a total of 22 percent of
the island is now under the protected areas system.
K L L A X Six Biosphere Reserves, two World Heritage sites and
six Ramsar sites (wetlands) are among the most rele
X P L O R vant protected areas.
E XA P L O R E KThese books, translated into English, provide a
THE GRENADINES clear, concise and comprehensive introduction to
Cuba's flowers and trees many of which bloom
ST VINCENT TOBAGO CAYS MUSTIQUE impressively. They are written not for specialists but
for nature-lovers who are visiting Cuba and are
interested in identifying the country's flowering
herbaceous plants and trees, whether they be in
cities, on the beach, or in the island's woods, savan
nahs or mountains.

















Because Cuba contains just about every type of eco
system found elsewhere in the Caribbean, ranging
from humid mountain rainforest to arid sandy cays,
these easily portable : i I ll be valuable addi
tions to the libraries I I ..... -" living or traveling
throughout the region.
Covering all the most commonly observed species
and some lesser known varieties, these handy guides
I, i .. I i,.i I .i lor photos of every species and
S ... i leaves, seeds and bark as aids
to identification. Medical and culinary uses are men
tioned where appropriate, in addition to clearly stated
warnings about poisonous species.
The author, Anofl eiva, is a Doctor of i- .1
Sciences and 1 at the University oli .....
She is a director of the Cuban National Botanic
Garden and is currently working on the conservation
of threatened Cuban plants.
These books are available at bookstores or from
www.macmillan caribbean.com.







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SPICE ISLAND

COOKBOOKS


Great Grenada Recipes, compiled by Wendy
Hartland, Island Recipes Unlimited. 2006, paperback,
80 pages, color photos. ISBN 978-976-8212-04-7.
Great Grenada Fish & Seafood Recipes, Volume
One, compiled by Wendy Hartland, Island Recipes
Unlimited. 2007, paperback, 80 pages, color photos.
ISBN 978-976-8212-12-2.

- a a T? a


c .... I .. I . ..
h ( I ... I I n- I ,,
in LIU i olL- i I-.. Lh.-
colony of British Guiana to
the independent nation of
Guyana -her husband,
Mike, was a major in the
British Army. The Hartland
family "fell in love with the
island", moved there and
built their first house in
1968. Wendy, an artist, is
now a Grenadian citizen
and has her studio and art
gallery near St. George's.
As Wendy says in the intro
duction to Great Grenada Recipes, "Most Grenadians
are very capable cooks, and enjoy it, and many are
also likely to have woken at dawn to spend a couple
of hours in the gar 1 i i..1.. ileir crops before
going to work. This :, -I .. I I from planting it
to cooking it, is reflected in the wholesome and deli
cious range of recipes gathered here."
Various chefs, restaurateurs and individuals on the
Isle of Spice, and its sister isles Carriacou and Petite
Martinique, donated the recipes published in both
books. This gives a broad range of examples -from


the traditional to the trendy -of Grenada's cuisine.
Great Grenada Recipes ranges from old-time
Grenadian favorites such as Salt Fish Souse with
Fried Bakes, Coo-Coo Pois and Crab Backs to updat
ed ways with island ingredients -Tofu, Mushroom &
Avocado Stir-Fry, Fish & Callaloo Lasagne and
Passion Fruit Ganache, for example. In between are
Caribbean classics including Baked Stuffed Red
Snapper, Curried Mutton and Tuna Fish & Avocado
Salad, as well ... . .... .. .i .. .... i as Chilled
Spicy Watern' i - 1 ii -i .'..... .arambola
Salad and Pumpkin Punch.
After each recipe is the contributor's name and
home community -it's fun for anyone who has spent
time in Grenada to see who did what ("So that's how
Shirley's mother made her Salt Fish Pie!") and note the
specialties of different localities. It's no surprise that
the recipe for Lambie (Conch) Waters is from the fish
ing community of Petite Martinique and Provision
Pudding hails from the agricultural area around
Mount Moritz.
Great Grenada Fish & Seafood Recipes, Volume One
demonstrates how many different ways Grenadians
have to prepare the bounty
of the sea that surrounds
them. So many ways, in
fact, that Volume Two is
already in the works.
Hartland could have com
mented: "Many Grenadians
Shave woken before dawn to
spend a couple of hours on
the sea I- i..... before
S going to ,I
Again, the range of recipes
is broad, from heartwarm
i ,.. I ...... used
t I (with
breadfruit and cocoa tea), to
an ambitious Lobster
Burger on Plantain Rosti
with Ginger Corn Salsa.
Some non seafood
recipes sneaked into this
book, but these salads,
vegetables and desserts
will go deliciously with the
fish dishes.
Tip of the day: Tie sprigs
of sage, rosemary and
thyme together in a bunch.
Dip in olive oil or melted
butter. Brush over grilled
or broiled fish to season.
Unusually, most of the
photos in these books are
not of the prepared dishes,
or the stages of making them, or even the ingredients.
Rather, they are scenic shots intending to give the
books souvenir value. These images are a refreshing
addition, but we hope that future volumes will include
a few more photos of ingredients and finished dishes,
for the benefit of those who might not know what a
christophene or a properly done plantain rosti
looks like.
Both books are available at shops in Grenada or
from im@spiceisle.com. A donation to charity will be
made from the sale of each copy of both books.


FULL SERVICE BOATYARD go0




or 1?-L F S P -oB %long





B tl a ot Crb


They all begin with the letter 'S'


Jolly Harbour, Antigua


SIHOLSTEtSR


I NTERI ORS

FES Ht TROPI CAL

FLOWERS

Cell: (268) 464-5335 Lois Warner
Shop: (268) 562-6960
Fax: (268) 560-9372
Email: flowersinteriors@yahoo.com


Marine
Insurance
The insurance business has changed
No longer can brokers talk of low rates.
Rather,the honest broker can only say,
"I'11 do my best to minimize your increase!"
There is good insurance,there is cheap
insurance, but there is no good cheap
insurance.You never know how good your
insurance is until you have a claim.
Then, if the claim is denied
or unsatisfactorily settled,
t it is too late.




I have been in the insurance business
40 years, 36 with Lloyds, and my claims
settlement record cannot be beat.
Fax DM Street
Iolaire Enterprises (353) 28 33927
or e-mail: streetiolaire@hotmail.com
www.street-iolaire.com [


DOLLY'S ANSWERS








































































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0ATATAS

by Mary Heckrotte

In every market and r- --- store in the Caribbean, we're sure to encounter veg
tables we can only .11 1,. root things" until we learn their local names and
experiment to see what we can make of them. It's all just part of the Caribbean
adventure!
Depending on where you buy them, Ipomoea batata is called white sweet potato,
Cuban sweet potato, sweet-sweet, camote, boniato or batata. Just because it fits the
Latin name so nicely, I am going to stick with batatas.
This fleshy taproot looks much like the "sweet potato" known in the US. The color
is a little different- either dark purplish or lighter reddish -rather than the orange
color of North American "sweet potatoes". But they are about the same size and
shape. When you cut a batata, you'll discover that the insides are a creamy white
and the flesh will cook up drier and fluffier than their orange-fleshed cousins.
Look for batatas that are rock hard and free from bruises, blemishes, wrinkles,
and any white or black molds. As with all fruits and vegetables, choose speci
mens that are heavy for their size: they will be the juiciest. The smaller batatas
are apt to be more flavorful and have a better consistency. Once you get them
home, store them in a cool, airy place out of direct i .i1. ... I they should last for
a week or so. They do not need to be refrigerated. i ... cipe calls for you to
peel them, submerge the peeled ones in water until you are ready to proceed as
this will avoid discoloration.
You can bake, fry, boil, or microwave batatas just as you would any potato. You
can use them as a substitute for the more familiar orange sweet potato in pies,
casseroles, soups -they are most versatile.
Many Caribbean cooks combine batatas wit'. i . I i -.. 1, .. ... i 1.
or squash, cassava, potatoes and yams. This ,,,i ..... I, II I. I I I.
as "ground provisions", with the percentage of each varying depending on what's
available at market on a given day. And cooks often combine such .r-..-.1 provi
sions with plantains or green bananas, black or red beans, corn, 11.d. and
various meats or fish and spices to make a full-meal stew. Pepperpot or Sancocho
are two of the names given to hodgepodge stews of this sort. Such stews are pre
pared in households throughout th- r'ri.--;n r- i-n each cook advocating a spe
cial combination of ingredients. ( i. i- ... ... i. broke the Guinness World
Record by making a =;;---- --rn1 i:.. 15,300 pounds of vegetables and 11,000
pounds of meat er. .,1.I I I ... people!
Dominican-Style Sancocho
2 pounds chicken, in skinned serving-size pieces
1 pound pork chops
3/4 pound goat meat or beef
6 Tablespoons sour orange juice
1 medium onion, diced
4 cloves garlic, mashed
2 green peppers, diced
1 pound tomatoes, diced
1 Tablespoon Worcestershire sauce
5 teaspoons salt
1/2 pound salt pork, cut in half inch cubes
21 1 ., ... ... oil
2 large plantains
1 pound cassava
1 pound taro
1 pound pumpkin
1 pound batatas
3 ears corn on the cob
1 pound yam
3 liters water
1 Tablespoon oregano
Fresh parsley
Cilantro leaves
1 chicken bouillon cube
1 Tablespoon vinegar
Wipe chicken, pork chops, and goat or beef with sour orange juice. Cook each
meat (except for salt pork) separately in the following manner: put meat in skillet
with a portion of the onions, garlic, bell peppers, tomatoes, Worcestershire sauce,
and salt. Add water as needed to make a sauce in the pan. Cook meats only till just
barely tender.
In the meantime, fry salt pork in oil over medium high heat until barely ten
der. Remove salt pork and set aside. In same skillet, brown sausage. Set aside
with all oil.
Peel and ,I .1i .1 into about two-inch serving size pieces, putting them
in a large I i I I I water as you work to avoid discoloration. Keep back
half of the pumpkin to add later as the first portion will cook down and thicken
the sancocho.
Add all the prepared meats and remaining ingredients to the stockpot. Bring stew
to boil then lower heat to simmer. Add remainder of pumpkin. Watch that the stew
does not get too thick and watch that the vegetables do not overcook. If some veg
tables are becoming too tender, remove them temporarily.
Serve sancocho with rice, hot sauce, and slices of avocado. Serves 9.
Beef and Batata Kabobs
1/2 Cup olive oil
1/4 Cup sour orange juice
3 Tablespoons jerk seasoning
2 teaspoons cumin
1 pound lean beef, cut in 1 inch cubes
2 small batatas, boiled, peeled, cut in 1-inch cubes
Continued on next page


Calliaqua
St.Vincent & the Grenadines
Tel: 784 456 2987 Fax 784 456 2983 t
E-mail: order@gourmetfoodsvg comn
www.gourmetfoodsvg.com .... .,:r.






Continued from previous page
1 medium bell pepper, diced
1 medium zucchini, cut in 1-inch cubes
2 shallots, cut in half
In a small bowl, mix oil, juice, jerk, and cumin. Divide mixture into two zipper
plastic bags. In one bag, add beef. In the other bag, add batatas, pepper, zucchini,
and shallots. Shake each bag gently to coat ingredients. Chill bags 30 minutes or
longer. Drain beef and vegetables, discarding marinade. Alternate beef and veg
etable cubes on skewers then broil or grill 10 to 12 minutes until lightly browned
on all sides.
Mashed Garlic Batatas
4 medium batatas
1 Cup sour cream
1/2 Cup butter
1/4 Cup roasted garlic
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
Peel batatas, putting them immediately into a pot of boiling salted water. Boil 20
to 30 minutes until tender. Drain, add remaining ingredients and use an electric
mixer to combine all until smooth. Add more sour cream and/or butter if mixture
appears too thick or dry.
Batata Pecan CasseroleL
6 medium batatas, peeled and boiled until tender
1 Cup raisins
1/2 Cup pecans, chopped
1 teaspoon vanilla
2 Tablespoons lemon juice
2 Tablespoons butter, melted
1/2 Cup corn syrup
1/3 Cup sugar
1/4 teaspoon cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon nutmeg
1/4 teaspoon allspice
1/4 teaspoon salt
Slice batatas and make a layer of half the slices in a baking dish sprayed with
non-stick. Sprinkle on half of the raisins and pecans. Layer on remaining batata
slices. In a small bowl, mix together the vanilla, lemon juice, butter, and corn
syrup, sugar, and spices. Pour mixture over batatas. Bake at 350F for 45 minutes.
Serves 6.
Batata Plantain Mash
3 pounds batatas
2 yellow plantains
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
1/4 Cup milk
4 Tablespoons butter
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
Peel batatas and plantains, cut them into small chunks, submerging pieces
immediately in a pot of water to avoid discoloration. Bring water to boil and cook
15 to 20 minutes until pieces are tender. Drain. Add remaining ingredients. Using
an electric mixer, combine all until smooth.
Batata Pudding
2 ..- beaten
1/, "up milk
1 Cup sugar
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
1/2 Cup butter
1/2 teaspoon nutmeg
2 Cups grated raw batata
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 can (13 ounces) evaporated milk
1 Cup shredded coconut
In a large mixing bowl, mix I i1. eggs, butter, and sugar. Stir in remaining
ingredients. Pour into a 1 and . 11 quart casserole pan sprayed with non stick
Bake at 350F for 1 hour or until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean.




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Visitors to Mustique are invited to:
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II 11 freshest seafood, steaks and pastas for dinner. Terrific lunches and breakfasts.
Now equipped with WIFI you can enjoy sunset cocktails and catch up on the web.
Basil's Bar 1 1 fI u lustique Blues Festival, January 23 February
6,2008. II I i AM, Lunchis served11:00A 6 PM,
Dinner at ,' i I I for Cocktails anytime and plan to attend the
Wednesday night Jump up and BBQ. Call 784-488-8350 or VHF 68.
BASILS BOUTIQUE Fabrics as I I i 1 1 1 1I air.. perfect for
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BASILS GREAT GENERAL STORE: There is nothing general about Basil's
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Shipping is easily I II 11 arranged. Call 784-488-8407

Visitors to St Vincent are invited to:
BASILS BAR: In St Vincent near the ort of I I is an 18tb --n... -ob-
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you will enjoy cocktails most delightful, I i II I I and the meals, some
of the best on the island. Call 784-457-2713

Visit Basil's in Mustique or St. Vincent
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products, meat, fresh vegetables Friday until 8:45 pm
Saturday until
or fruits, tolletnes, household goods, 1:00 pm
Tel: (473) 440-2588
or a fine selection of liquor and wine, Grd
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The Food Fair has it all and a lot more Monday Thursday
9 am to 5:30 pm
Hubba s Friday & Saturday
Hubbard's until 7:00 pm
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MAC'S PIZZERIA











In addition to our famous pizza we offer
seasonal specialties and fresh baked goods.
Open daily from 11:00am to 10:00pm.
Situated in Admiralty Bay, Bequia between
the Frangipani and Plantation House.
For Reservations: VHF Ch68 or Tel: (784) 458 3474


Pigeon peas are a good source of protein, especially for vegetarians. To receive the most benefit from peas or
beans, they are best eaten with a complement of rice or wheat. All peas and beans are great sources of B vita
mins, which help the body resist diseases. -. .. peas contain iron, zinc and calcium. These peas also have
Vitamin C, but this vitamin is more prevalen -i II. peas are used as sprouts. Sprouts can be cooked in stir-fry
or added to sandwich-" ---.- i pods may also be added to stir fries, soups and stews.
The recipes below c .11 I -. 11 I i 1 or "green" peas. Dried pigeon peas, like all dried beans, take a lot longer
to cook.
Coconut Milk Peas
1 pound pigeon peas
4 Cups coconut milk*
2 Tablespoons canola oil
1 Tablespoon curry massala powder
2 medium onions, chopped
1 hot pepper, minced
salt and spice to taste
Coconut milk can be made from scratch, but it's easy to buy it canned or make it from powder. If using canned,
don't buy Coco Lopez, which is a sweetened product for making pina coladas!
Add peas to a large pot of boiling water and simmer until tender. (This takes longer than garden peas.) Drain
excess water and stir in 2 Cups of the coconut milk. Simmer, adding water if peas get dry.
In a frying pan, add curry powder to oil and heat, stirring, for one minute. Add onions and pepper. Taste peas
to be certain they are soft, and add to frying pan. Add remaining coconut milk and heat for five minutes. Season
to taste.
Serve hot on a bed of rice.
Three P Soup (Pigeon Peas and Pepper)
4 Cups water
1 Tablespoon olive oil
1 bay leaf
2 Cups pigeon peas
1/2 hot pepper, chopped fine
1 cube vegetable bouillon
Salt and spice to taste
3 stalks celery, chopped
1/4 cup sliced mushrooms
1/4 Cup chopped chadon bene
Add oil and bay leaf to a large pot of boiling water. Add peas and pepper and boil until peas are soft. Add bouil
lon and salt/spices to taste. Remove from heat and add celery, mushrooms and chadon bene. Let sit for ten min-
utes before serving. (Diced chicken or beef may be added.)
Pigeon Pea Cakes
1 Cup pigeon peas
2 pounds yams, peeled and cubed
1 Tablespoon butter
2 chives, chopped
1 bunch parsley, chopped
1 onion, chopped
1 clove garlic, minced
3 Tablespoons flour
1/2 cup bread crumbs
Oil for frying
Boil peas and yams until soft. Mash yams and mix in peas.
In a frying pan, heat butter and add chives and parsley. Add these seasonings to the yam and pea mix. Add
flour and bread crumbs and mix well. Drop by spoonfuls into hot oil. These may also be baked or grilled (if it is a
stiff mixture).


in Lower Bay, Bequia
* Come and find us amongst the trees!
Candelight Dinners 0),
Monday to Saturday
PLEASE RESERVE!


few years ago we were anchored in Secret Harbor, Grenada. It was pre-Ivan, and the Moorings charter
base was bustling. I met a taxi driver, Dennis, who had a van called Blue AngeL One look at Dennis and
you knew he liked to eat. During an island tour he stopped a few times to buy fruit, such as bananas
A. and sapodillas. Then he pulled beside a truck loaded with pea pods. It was my first experience with
another Caribbean essential, pigeon peas.
I had eaten the rice-based dish peleau many times, but never gave a thought to the type of beans or peas that
were mixed with the rice. Dennis was an e i, .1 1. -.;.: pigeon peas. Fresh ones should be bought by the color
and condition of the pods. However, pod i ...... i. .. green to reddish to deep purple, from brown to black,
and even white or striped. Fresh pea pods should be crisp and snap apart if twisted. Supermarkets have canned,
dried or frozen pigeon peas. Myself, I have learned to love shelling fresh peas in the cockpit while listening to the
BBC. Never dump the pods overboard -they float!
Since that day, I've talked to many islanders who eagerly wait for i -. r-- i ..-. to get the natural nutty,
good-earth taste of fresh or "green" peas. Although an important cro I i. i .. i as originated in Africa.
Four-thousand year-old pigeon peas have been discovered in Egypt ... I ..I i.. ...- call these peas Congo
beans or Angola peas, while the Indian names are arhar or toor. In parts of the Caribbean the peas are called
gungo peas.


PORTHOLE RESTAURANT & BAR
& Shoreline Mini-Market

We serve breakfast,
lunch and dinner
VHF CH68
Phone (784) 458-3458
A friendly atmosphere where you can sit and meet people.
Admiralty Bay, Bequia
Noelina & Lennox Taylor welcome you!






























Dear CC Editor,
Why did you send my rejection of eAPIS (January
Forum) to the Caribbean Marine Association? I want
to know what the perpetrators of this fraud, CARI
COM, have to say! And what do you mean, "Worry no
more!" now that APIS is allegedly finished? No more
ambushed bf-- P --rnm-nnto playing follow-the-leader
into an *. II'. ... II..... -t the name of the War on
Terror? No more razor wire or e-reports? No more pop
up, unreasoned, intrusive, paranoid, useless, and
arbitrary intrusions on our freedom? That govern
ments are now going to use balance and logic in the
War on Terror?
The Caribbean Marine Association's response makes
it clear why you sent it to them. This isn't about a
wasteful procedure that is useless. Nor is it about
arbitrary restrictions to personal freedoms. This is
about inconveniencing people who have financial
clout. Yachties are among the most conspicuous con
sumers. So, yachts are now exempt. Hooray! Another
blow for freedom and democracy... rather, for capital
ism, consumerism, and the rights of the rich.
Jim Hutchinson
S/Y Ambia
USA

Hi Hutch,
Your letter, along with others on the same topic, as
submissions intended for the public domain, were for
warded to the CMA both for their published response
and in the interest of the greater good, as the CMA was
gathering statistics and public opinion in their effort to
stop the application of eAPIS (the electronic Advance
Passenger Information System) to yachts traveling in
the CARICOM (Caribbean Economic Community) area
as quickly as possible.
The CMA is a trade association (it's the regional
umbrella body for all the national marine trade associ
nations in the Caribbean), so of course their emphasis in
the matter is economic. By drawing attention to its eco
nomic repercussions, among other factors such as
those you mentioned in your previous letter (e.g.
unworkable regulations that make people flout the
law), the CMA was successful in having the application
of eAPIS to yachts stopped.
I don't know of any human rights or similar associa
tion who took up the anti APIS cause, never mind the
wider cause of ensuring unrestricted personal freedom
for all. Wouldn't it be great if one did?


As for hearing from CARICOM about the APIS for
yachts misadventure, as far as we know, no statement
was ever made.
All the best,
Sally

Dear Compass,
Re: Macareo Meander in the February issue of
Compass.
Ms. Sharp has written: "Not all bottom paint will
remain effective after a prolonged immersion in fresh
water. (It would be a shame to ruin that new bottom
paint in a few quick weeks on the river.)"
I contacted Jotun, Interlux, Pettit, Sigma and
SeaHawk. All of these manufacturers of marine
antifouling paint confirmed that immersion in fresh
water would not degrade performance of their paints
on return to saltwater. Interlux noted that their "66"
paint should not be immersed in fresh water for a
week following initial application.
It would be a shame if cruisers were put off from
exploring this most interesting area by unwarranted
concerns over their bottom paint. The Caribbean
Compass performs a valuable role in encouraging peo
ple to see new i ... i i,,,,.. andintrans-
mitting useful ...I ..... I .. I . i.... ... Dre and better
dataisanimp ."' 1I I I I
For example, the Macareo article might have include
ed more specific suggestions on how to prepare for a
trip to the rivers; perhaps including how to check the
US State Department fact sheets, visit the Venezuelan
consulate in Trinidad, get yellow fever and malaria
inoculations and medications, how to provision (food
and fuel) and what equipment and techniques may be
useful, how to clear Customs and Immigration, and
find resources (travel guides, history books, field
:-;i--1 that might enhance the trip.
njoy reading the Caribbean Compass and wish
you all the best for 2008.
Regards,
John DeLong
S/VAlouette

Dear John,
Thanks for your letter and for the information from
Jotun, Interlux, Pettit, Sigma and SeaHawk, which will
be of interest to other Compass readers.
Your feedback about Compass's content is appreciate
ed. We would LOVE to supply "more and better data".
However, due to thefinancial constraints of a widely dis
tribute free publication, the Compass has a core editor
rial staffofexactly two people (myself full time, and our
Assistant Editor, part time) to put together the Compass
every month. While we do our best to ensure that we
don't publish anything untrue, we simply haven't got the
time or resources to do an in depth research project on
every subject that comes across our desk. (It has been
brought to our attention, however, that www.yacht
paint.com/superyacht/PDS/Micron 66.htm says, "Not
suitable for immersion in fresh water." We'll leave it to
Micron 66 users to investigate this further.)
The Compass relies on user generated content and
you guys do a superbjob! All your suggested additions
to Ms. Sharp's article would certainly be useful to other
cruisers, but she was writing an anecdotal story about
her own trip, not a comprehensive cruising guide. If
anyone would like to offer afollow-up article including
more detailed information, it would be most welcome
indeed. Along with describing your adventures, we
encourage future contributors to include in their articles
specific information that will be of use to other cruisers.
All the best,
Sally

Continued on next page







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-Continued from previous page
Dear Compass,
While I appreciate that Barbados is a beautiful
island and the people very friendly, facilities for visit
ing yachts are worse now than they were when I first
visited the island 30 years ago. In addition, I had to
pay some US$90 to clear an almanac (approximately
US$35 to purchase) through Customs, despite the fact
that the goods were clearly marked "In Transit" and I
had all of the ship's papers, etcetera, with me. It was
either pay the duty or you can't have the goods.
Similarly, while in Grenada, I found that other items
had been delivered to Barbados. I arranged for these
to be collected by an international courier company
and brought to me here. The Post Office, however,
refused to release the items until the duty had been
paid -even though they were being brought to me in
Grenada, again marked "In Transit". The only way I
could avoid the duty was if a Barbados Customs offi
cial accompanied tl- i. 1 .; to the yacht!
Barbados is a :. ... .1 I.. -1 stop for many transat
lantic yachts, but the cumbersome formalities, lack of
facilities and weird Customs regulations, mean that
even if yachts go there ., ,, .. 1, le problems,
they won't stay for loi. 1, I .11 i. are lots of
other beautiful islands where one can spend one's
money. In 1980 there were some 125 yachts anchored
in Carlisle Bay; in 2007 the number was down to 27,
most of whom did not intend to stay more than a few
days, given the persistent mega-decibel music played
by the nightclubs in Carlisle Bay.
Kind regards,
Linda Lane Thornton
(Currently trying to prise my anchor away from
Grenada!)

Dear Compass,
Regarding the Port Louis Marina in Grenada and
Peter de Savary's operations around the edges of St.
George's Lagoon and the surrounding area, to any
thinking person the whole operation will be a huge
bonus to both yachting in Grenada and to the islands
as a whole.
A 350-berth marina with an additional ten berths for
:.. . I, ,ii .I .. I ..... expansion of the
S, .. ,, I, i ..i. i. i i,11,11 i needs of the
expanded yachting community. This will create jobs
and put money into the local economy of Grenada
money that stays on the island for a long time, unlike
much of the income from cruise ships or foreign
owned resorts.
What has been lost? Thirty, or at the most 40 free
anchoring spots for visiting yachts in St. George's
T .--n which is not that good an anchorage at the best
S...- Holding in the lagoon can only be described as
bad; you are anchoring in black, gooey SOUP. If you
have ever had the misfortune (as I have) to have to dive
in the lagoon to untangle anchors, you discover you can
shove your arm into the soup up to your shoulder and
still not hit any real solid clay or sand. Good holding
l ,; .:1 ;. 1 r more feet down.
I .i I. ... i, . s not really lost. There is plenty
c -i .... than the supposedly lost 30 to
40 spots if yachtsmen are just willing to take a slight
ly longer dinghy ride. Right outside the entrance to the
harbour, on the south side of the entrance on St.
Mary's Bay and Ross Point Shoal, one finds good hold
ing, a white sand bottom and clean, clear water. Since
today's yachts almost universally have dinghies with
decent-sized outboards, this anchorage is no more
that a ten-minute ride to town or any of the dinghy
landings inside the lagoon.
Admittedly, this anchorage is open to the northwest
groundswell, but in an average year it would be a per
fect anchorage 300 days a year, uncomfortable 40


days, very uncomfortable 20 days, and five days unten
able when boats would have to go into the new marina
or the yacht club dock, or head to the south coast.
The lagoon is horribly polluted, pollution that pre
dates the arrival of any yachts. [See my article on
marine pollution in last month's Compass.] The area
around the lagoon is called Springs, and the place
where the Grenada Yacht Club is located is called The
Spout. Water from the natural springs was once
pumped to a huge cistern near the Yacht Club site
(now filled in, it is under the parking lot). From the cis
tern a big pipe led out to the point, where ships could
come 1- n;=-1- and pick up water. I believe that pol
lution I Ii' ound water a century or more ago was
the reason the cistern and the spout ceased operation.
When the whole situation is honestly reviewed, it is
obvious that Port Louis Marina is a great benefit to
both the yachting community and the island of
Grenada as a whole.
Don Street
Glandore
Ireland

Dear Compass,
My background is 28 years cruising the Eastern
Caribbean and Mexico. I worked on a charter boat out
of English Harbor for six months, so I do have some
experience .11. ..... officials.
During tl .1 I ,-,- and early '80s, Antigua had
the worst reputation for unfriendly officials and the
most difficult check-ins. By the turn of the century
things had become somewhat better. Because of that
we started to visit A-"nti -
Last year, things t ... I I i1i worse. Customs has
been okay to work with but Immigration officials have
almost gone out of their way to discourage visiting
Antigua. I was treated so poorly last year, at Jolly
Harbour, that I decided not to go back for Race Week
and will not go there at all this season.
Until I hear that things have changed for the better,
I feel I do not need to support a country that on one
hand encounr I ....-..... i 11. ... . i i .....- and
on the other -... .. 1 i 1 . i i I ...dact
as if they don't want visitors there. If it weren't for
tourism, most of them would not have a job.
Please sign me,
Hoping to be Welcome Again Soon
Yacht Visitor

Dear Hoping,
You don't specify exactly when last year you were
treated poorly at Jolly Harbour, although if it was prior
to Antigua Sailing Week it was before May. In the early
part of 2007, Compass received a number of complaints
about unpleasant experiences at Immigration in
Antigua. Then the Antigua & Barbuda Marine
Association (ABMA) and the Antigua government tack
led the issue, including airing it at a May 16th public
yachting symposium at which the Prime Minister and
Minister of Tourism were present. Since then (aside
from the APIS kafuffle late last year), we have received
very few complaints from yachts clearing in at Antigua.
And, the complaints we have heard from Antigua
recently are not about personal treatment, but rather
about time-devouring paperwork. Apparently Antigua
Immigration requires the arriving skipper to present
himself at Immigration, return to the yacht with a form
for each person aboard to fill out, then bring all the
completed forms back to Immigration to complete the
process. In many neighboring countries, the skipperfills
outjust one form at the Immigration office. The ABMA is
currently looking into bringing Antigua's yacht clear
ance procedures more in line with those of other
Caribbean countries.
CC
Continued on next page







Continued from previous page
Dear Compass,
We are now in Martinique (mid-February), trying to
source parts to replace our rigging. Meantime, here
are a few observations at the start of 2008.
There are far fewer "swooshers" (Air Marine wind
generators). Those that are here are often considerate
enough to anchor in isolated spots. We have only been
bothered by one, at a range of over 300 metres, when
the wind kicked up and boats started to congregate
near the hurricane hole in Marin.
Many more boats are showing some form of anchor
light. The bad news is that there were five flashing
anchor lights visible when we first anchored here.
Where and why do people buy these things?
The really bad news is that of Nevis. The sheer num-
ber of moorings boggles the mind. Also, I read in All at
Sea that one takes a mooring there at one's own risk.
So if I am required to take a mooring, it fails and I
damage another boat, who is liable? What would be
the legal position? Sadly, not so many people go to
Nevis, so there is unlikely to be the outcry that there
was over APIS.
Sue Simons
S/V Lorensu

Dear Sue,
We spoke with Spencer Hanley, General Manager of
the Nevis Air & Sea Ports Authority (NASPA), who
assures Compass readers that NASPA stands behind
the strength of the moorings per se and if a yacht
should be damaged as a result of a mooring that is
proven faulty, NASPA will of course take responsibility.
He explained, however, that the need for the "at your
own risk" clause is due to the operator error type fac
tors which NASPA does not control -such as how
crews tie up to a mooring, what they use to tie up with,
etcetera -but could cause a boat to go adrift and/or
damage another. (He gave as an example a crew who
chose to let out an excessive length of mooring line,
allowing their boat to swing into another moored boat
when the wind shifted.)
Mr. Hanley adds that the PortAuthority welcomes sug
gestions from the boating public. He can be contacted at
shanley naspa@sisterisles.kn or tel (869) 469-2001.
CC

Dear Compass,
I would like to inform the boating public sailing in
the Southern Grenadines around Tobago Cays,
Mayreau and Union Island, that food prepared by the
boatboys on the beaches is not always hygienic for vis
itors. The same is true of food cooked in private homes
and delivered to yachts. These informal enterprises do
not carry a health license, but their business is getting
bigger and cheaper day by day.
People must be aware of the risk of food poisoning
and the right hygiene for food handlers. The restau
rants, which are regularly inspected and licensed,
have been losing business by 50 percent or more for
the last two years, despite an increase in the number
of yachts sailing in our waters.
Please, I'm asking the boating public to be aware of
this because when someone is poisoned again -as in
the incident last year with food poisoning by the boat
boys -who will they blame it on? This presents a
- .i t- t-urism in general. Much of the informal
i I I'. I observe is done by school drop-outs,
young boys and ex-convicts who look for an easy way
to survive. Will they be looking out for people's health?
I also observe when a boat enters Mayreau or the
Tobago Cays, they cannot have their privacy or even
have time to put their anchor down peacefully, before
-f "Do you like me to cook you lobster?"
Si me to provide dinner for you and deliv
er to the boat?" It is becoming a hustle.


FRED MARINE


If the yachting companies, especially the Switch
yachts, will advise their captains and the people who
charter their boats about this matter, it will help us to
make a better and cleaner tourism product -wel
coming, hygienic and successful.
One more point I want to mention is taking up moor
ings in the Southern Grenadines. It will be at your own
risk. Many yachts have been cast adrift from moorings
and many more have reported to me that moorings are
not fully maintained. Be careful when taking moorings;
it will be safer if you use the anchor also.
The people of St. Vincent & the Grenadines in gen
eral are very hospitable, loving and kind, and we
would like to maintain that standard with the help of
the yachting public.
Please sign me,
Concerned Citizen
St. Vincent & the Grenadines

Hi, Compass Readers,
We have just sailed to Panama via Colombia. We
have been doing a website for friends back home, but
with other sailors in mind have put in a lot more
details of the Colombian coast because not many peo
ple go that way.
We have included lots of waypoints for tricky anchor
ages and there are descriptions and some pictures.
Our website address is www.sailalga.net.
Erik and Foss
Alga

Dear Compass Readers,
We want to hear from YOU!
Please include your name, boat name or address,
and a way we can contact you (preferably by e-mail) if
clarification is required.
We do not publish individual consumer complaints or
individual regatta results complaints. (Kudos are okay!)
We do not publish anonymous letters; however, your
name may be withheld from print at your request.
Letters may be editedfor length, clarity andfair play.
Send your letters to:
sally@caribbeancompass.com
orfax (784) 4573410
or
Compass Publishing Ltd.
Readers' Forum
Box 175BQ
Bequia
St. Vincent & the Grenadines


YAIMAFR


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- Chlna ipper, Cartagena


So I gets this call from a friend-of a-friend, y'see, to come out of retirement as
a charter skipper, and take these friends of hers on a three-week cruise
S.... I I. Windward Islands. Well, I was kinda bored sitting' here in
Southe... .1. ..... the money looked pretty good, and it'd been a good few years
since I'd cruised 'em myself, so I says, 'Why not? Hell, that's my old pond. It'll be
good to get updated on whats happening' nowadays in some of these places."


SVJLJL LL 7


So I e-mailed the prospective charterer and got back a list of the places he wanted
to go, a list that was quite ridiculous. It included unprotected bays on the windward
sides of St. Lucia and St. Vincent, Industry Bay on Bequia, and Sauteurs in Grenada.
Since I knew that he'd never been to the Windwards before, I asked where he had
obtained his list of anchorages. He replied that it wasn't a list of anchorages, but just
interesting places that he wanted to visit, and he thought 11. 1. ....1.1 11 lo it
byboat as by car, andthathe had II,, I, i i .... ,..I. ,.
That'swhenI mademy' ;i:t. l 1 .1 II..... ... I ,, I ' .' ... .. ...
I I I ,I I, I I i I i i.... I i I I II I I od h el I .
: . i .i ... I. I II . .. - i I i .I i- ngin the Caribbean, gobuy
I ,, ,. I , .. ,, ,, I ,. I I asetof Don Streets Imray
lolaire charts that cover the area, and you can study where you want to go that's feasi
ble at this time o' year." Pretty innocent stuff, you'd think. You'd be wrong.
ii I i ii.., i i ... I those charts, and he studied 'em, and he came up with
a :..1 .... I I... 11 down to Le Marin in Martinique a few days early and
checked out the boat (it was one o' these fancy catamarans that are all the rage right now),
then met the folks, and off we went, bound for Rodney Bay, St. Lucia. Now I'll say one
thing for these catamarans: they will scoot off the wind, so even though we left well after
1:30, we were anchored behind Pigeon Point by 4:30. I did a double-take; who was
anchored next to us but the man who wrote the book "Dr. Demento" hisself, in his new
cat, Ti Kanot Some of my guests swam by and met him. It was the beginning of the end.
Continued on next page



Read in Next Month's Compass:

Guadeloupe to Montserrat... by Paddleboard!

Sailing Directions: Leaving the Caribbean

Cruisers' Angel Falls Adventure

... and more!


MULTIHULLS:
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4. FFP 6an.d 01 i134 AI. 4 ha2 21. "
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40'FountPaJot Lavez'03,3cab/2 hd
SAIL:
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52 Jeanneau Sun Odyssey 03 3 cab
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PICK UP!
Ahoy, Compass Readers! When in Bequia, pick up your free monthly copy of
the Caribbean Compass at any of these locations (advertisers in this issue
appear in bold):



Bequia Bookshop
Bequia Post Office
Bequia Tourism Assn.
Dawn's Beach Cafe
De Reef Restaurant
Doris Fresh Food
Frangipani Hotel
Friendship Rose Office
Grenadine Sails
GYE
Lulley's Tackle
Mac's Pizzeria
Max Marine
PortHole Restaurant
Salty Dog Restaurant
Tradewinds Cruise Club
W&W Supermarket
Wallace & Co.







Continued from previous page
So I dinghied over, and Chris and I talked "old talk" for awhile, and then my char
ter was on its way south to Soufriere, where our batteries went dead, but that's
another story. It was when we left for St. Vincent that the real trouble started.
Because Chateaubelair was p"-Pri n-in? boat attack problems, I suggested that we
anchor in Wallilabou instead .. my by now informed charterer said, "Doyle
says that Cumberland Bay is more like 'the real St. Vincent,'- i 11. re instead."
Hey, I think, no probs, mon; they're both good anchora . he wants:
he's the program director.
It just got worse from there. I couldn't go ANYWHERE without some well-inten
tioned but misguided member of the charter party reading aloud to me from the sail
orse descriptions of the lovely boutiques soon to be seen in our
Si i -.. .,. These were of paramount importance to my guests, and appar
ently of some interest to Chris as well, since he goes to great lengths describing their
manifest delights. Nonetheless, they diminish in my personal interest when I'm try
ing to see the damn red buoy in the fading light coming into an anchorage where
half the idiots are without anchor lights, a few of them probably dragging anchor,
and mebbe drunk to boot.
Doyle says you're supposed to be steering 145 degrees," they would declare. "Are you
t7-i;-i 1 I1 degrees? It was useless to tell them that we'rc ....... ,i i ... h ..
I.. ,h I1 I. .- direction, or that I've anchored in this very I I i -
"Oh, yes," I tell 'em, I'm steering 145 all right." For all they know, I'm steering 500
degrees; I could tell 'em that, and they'd believe me.
But they had to read to me OUT LOUD all about the Young Island Cut, and the
many amenities ashore, despite my assurances that I knew the place well, my eld
est son having been BORN there, for the love o' Ned. And about the entrance to
Admiralty Bay, "Steer clear of Devil's Table!" they'd shout. And the Montezuma Shoal
west of Mustique, where I had the horror of seeing Lord Jim go aground so long ago.
Then they started in with Squeaky. "Hey, that bay where you want to anchor
tonight," (Glossy Bay, Canouan) "the Imray Iolaire chart shows only half an anchor!"
they'd declaim. "Jeeze Louise," I thought, "If I'da known that ol' Don only gave this
place a half an anchor, I wouldn't anchored here for the last 36 years!" It was a
beautiful calm night, with the moon, a few days short of full, shinin' on the water,
and not another boat in sight. They hated it. Squeaky had only given it half an
anchor. Hell, knowing him, he was just trying' to save money on ink.
And so it went. They read to me, in a high nasal pitch, about the approaches to
the Tobago Cays; the entrance to Clifton Harbour in Union Island; Windward,
Carriacou (where I help sponsor a regatta); and Tyrrel Bay (where I lived for four
years). "Take a bearing on the Sister Rocks, and come straight into the harbour! Are
you taking a bearing on the Sister Rocks?!?"
By then, I could have strangled Chris, and Squeaky as well. Is this any way to treat
an old friend and shipmate, to torture him with prose and half anchors? I contem-
plated throwing both book and charts overboard, but it would have done no good;
-. re hooked, addicted, and would only have bought others to replace
i .... ,I,, 1. enriching those very individuals that I wished to keelhaul.
Useless to show them that the RayMarine GPS plot shows us anchored 200 meters
inland indeed, part way up one of the Pitons -when we're demonstrably still
floating nicely to an offshore mooring. The map is ne---r -r---n the book is always
right, and we need TO READ IT TO YOU IN A LOUD .
Now I remember why I retired from the charter biz.




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e-mail: crew@tradewindscruiseclub.com
S TradeWinds Cruise Club operate a fleet of catamarans across
R NDSsix destinations in the Caribbean
We are the fastest growing charter company,
operating TERM CHARTERS, all inclusive, 7 days
We are looking for crew, mainly teams in the form of a Captain and a Chef/Hostess
We prefer couples that are married OR have been living together for at least a year
The nature of the job is such that the better the understanding and teamwork
between Captain and Chef the more successful your charters will be
Requirements Captain with a Skipper's licence
Chef/Hostess with a basic understanding of cooking
Dive master/ instructor for either the Captain and/or Chef is a plus
We offer full training onsite in the Caribbean
This is a FUN job with great earning potential If you are willing to work hard and
have a positive disposition to life this could be your DREAM job
Anyone with an interest is welcome to apply
If you would like more information about this job or send your CV to us, please
use this emall address
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or by mail to Bequla Marina, PO Box 194BQ, Port Elizabeth,
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Tel St Vincent +784 457 3407 Tel St Maarten +599 5510550



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1992 2 MDCabU SofRHEDUCEDiI) USS 1MOOw t9 4w Fn
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33' 1973 Pearson 10M Sloop, refit, new eng. paint, $ 33,500
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coll I o I xI pag Il li I[ -- a-






Caribbe CImp s Market alaee=


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THIS COULD BE


YOUR
MARKET PLACE AD
Book it now:
tom@caribbeancompass.com
or contact your local island agent


To advertise in Caribbean Compass Market Place, see list of island agents on page 4
or contact Tom at (784) 457 3409 tom@caribbeancompass.com


: 1 PTo IFEW0 0 1a AW-- I 1



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and upgrades in 05 including
new up sized rg, all electron-
ics, separate diesel alterna-
tor/water-maker, battees
fride/freezer, interior, ground
tackle, cockpit cushions/cov-
ersradar/arch, dinghy/davits,
far too much to list, must be
seen, hauled in Antigua, well
below current survey, asking
1191300 Canadian, for
specs/pictures E-mail
bentfleysrodls@yahoo.ca

GRAAL 49 CATAMARAN 4
guest cabins w/heads, gour-
met galley up, large salon
w/settee and bar area com-
fortably accommodates 8 per
sons, crew cabin. Located
Grenada $275,003 info and
photos www.graall990.fr

rwjw.


Iv t -r."-i- Ou i i I.: 1 : ,- "1.
ion, plenty of new upgrades,
ready to sail, located Palm
Island, SVG. Info on
www.artandsea.com.
T-i -- -- -- mail:


PEARSON 30 BUILT 1973, new
Yanmar2GM20,newAwgip, 2
jibs, 2 mains, spinnaker TV, CD,


wheel steering, lots more. Good
condition OFFERS PLEASE
E-mail nical 1 1bequia.net MASTS TURBULENCE GRENADA
has3mralssutilfarmano/rmu l
thulls 16-17 & 22 meters.
Td (473) 439-4495/415-8271
E-mail turbsail@spiceisle.com


England 1993, strong and com-
fortable, good condition, Mn
Margadta US$2000 E-mail
mashagruber@hotmdl.com








;OO LA,-OOtI 0 i C,.'.EI
CAT excellent condition,
loaded electronics, 12x21
upper deck w/full cover, 9 x
170w solar panels, 16 Trojan
batteries, new inflatable
dinghy w/10hp Mercury.
US$329,000 Tel (868
312-2993 E-mail
zazenzafaun hotmail.com






-I-i

Yanmar diesel, shoal draft,
sleeps 5 with V-berth, settee
and dbl quarter berth 62"
headroom. Lying St.
Vincent. Contact Gildas


FAMOUS POTATO I ':i:
Admiral 38 Catamaran. For
Sale Summer 2008. You can
follow her adventure now at
web mac com/famouspotatoes2
PACIFIC SEACRAFT CRE-
ALOCK 34 hi-iI" r=-irA-l=-
blue water .:. . 1. ,I .1
Details on www.petetheno-
mad.com Tel (473) 415-1026


AVON 11FT JET SKI DINGHY
84hp, 2 years dd.
US$1000 OO E-mail
info@RrstMateLtd.com



FRIENDSHIP BAY, BEQUIA
Lovely 1250 sq ft. cottage, 100
yards from beach. 2 master
bedrooms, 1 guest bedroom,
full kitchen, laundry, level with
road no stairs! 12,558 sq ft of
land, fenced with mature
fruit trees. US$320,000, Term
rental available. E-mail
jocelyne.gautier@wanadoo.fr

CARRIACOU, ONE ACRE LOTS
and multi acre tracts. Great
views overlooking Southern
Grenadines and Tyrrel Bay
www.caribtrace.com


BEQUIA HOMEMADE BREADS
& Cakes made fresh every
day! Whdewheat, multigrain,
banana bread, herbs & flax,
butter crescents. To place
order Tei i J. j j
3008 E ....
iepie@yahoo.com Orders
are delivered FREE
NIMROD'S RUM SHOP, GRENADA
Eg, bread, cheese, ice on
sale. Taxi service available,
propane tank fill-up
personal laundry service.
happy Hour every day from 5-
6pm Moonlight party every
fui moon. VHF16

BEQUIA BEOUIA CANVAS
Interior/exterior/cus-
tomized canvas specialist
Tel (784) 457-3291 E-mail
beqcan@caribsurf.com

CARIBBEAN VIRTUAL OFFICE
providing concierge,
catering, errand services,
mail management and for-
warding, bill payment, pur-
chasing, sourcing, reserva-
tions and a host of other
services. Tel (473) 404-2707


cosmetically. This is an excep- candidates are a couple
tional opportunity to establish with artistic inclination living
yourself in the charter capital on their own boat and look-
of the world. Asking price ing for shore side employ-
M$60000 www.charteryachts- ment in a US$ economy. Still
forsaleonline.com interested to hear from a lone
welder! Info contact Aragorn
Tel (284) 495-1849 E-mail
dreadeye@surflvi.com
SERVICE ADMINISTRATOR
needed for busy Marine MARINE TECHNICIAN WANTED
Industrial Service business in IMMEDIATELY Respected
Road Town, Tortda, BVI. Must Marine Engineering Co, in
have excellent organizational Grenada seeking all around
skills, ability to write service experienced technician for
reports and prepare warranty diesel, electrical, electronics,
claims, strong communication- water makers & refrigeration.
d skills, project management Ideal for cruiser or independ-
and cost accounting skills, and ent tech looking for the stabili-
the ability to handle quality ty of an established company
control issues. Mechanical in Grenada CV to; E-mail
background with marine enzamarine@caribsurf.com
experience preferred. Fax CV Tel (473) 439-2049
(284) 494-6972 E-mail
tom@partsancpower.comr


TORTOLA ARAGORNS STU-
DIO looking for 2 employ-
ees.Welder/Workshop man-
ager and shop assistant
required at our busy Art
Studio in Trellis Bay, BVI.Ideal


EC$1/US 400 per word -
include name, address and
numbers in count. Line draw-
ings/photos accompanying
classified are EC$20/US$8.


BEQUIA PROPERTIES A clas- ST. VINCENT NZIMBU ARTS &
sic Belmont villa in 1 acre CRAFTS for high quality indige
2,000,00OUS, The Village nous banana craft and dembe
Apartments Business drum Tel (784) 457-1677/531-
1,890,0OOUS, Admiralty Bay 2897 www.rrmbu-browne.com
900,00US, Spring Villa E-mail reimbu2XJ0@yahoo.com
1,750,00OUS LowerBay
1.600030US, Friendship UNDERWAER DIVING SERVICES
320,000US, Moonhole saciage/enmegency/moaings/i
750.000US, relax & enjoy ft bas. Al underwater seices
Bequia life. Tel 473) 537-9193/538-4608
Tel (784) 455 0969 E-mail E-mdlfahionboat4ydhoof.r
grenadinevillas@mac.com
www.grenadinevillas.com WATERMAKERS Complete sys-
tems, membranes, spares and
N.W. GRENADA Recently refur- service avdlable at Curacao
wished 3 bedroom house on andPuertoLaCruz,Venezuela.
1/4 acre land 300 yds from sea : :.i...:


overooldng Crayfish Bay, quiet
location good anchorage,
US$200DO3 Tel (473) 442-1897

BEQUIA, Lower Bay, Bells
Point, House and Land.
Serious buyers only. Sale by
owner. Call (784) 456 4963
after 6pm. E-mail
lulleym@vincysurf.com



PUERTO LA CRUZ, VENZ.
INSURANCE SURVEYS, electri-
cal problems and yacht
deliveries. Tel Cris Robinson
(58) 416-3824187 E-mail
crobinson@telcel.net.ve


In PLC Tel (58)416-3824187


YACHT CHARTER BUSINESS -
BVI Turnkey, long term, prof-
itable Sail & SCUBA business
with broad Trade License, all
operating permits and room
to expand. This is a limited
company that allows all assets
to be transferred by shares.
Sale includes a large 12 Pca
multihull which averages 20 to
30-week long charters per
year with an approx turnover
of $400000. In Dec 07 boat
was surveyed at above aver-
age condition structurally and


Admiral Yacht Insurance
Anjo Insurance
Antgua Classic Regatta
Art Fabrnk
B & C Fuel Dock
Bahia Redonda Marina
Barefoot Yacht Charters
Basil's Bar
Bequla Marine Center
Bogles Round House
Budget Marine
BVI Yacht Sales
By Design
Camper & Nicholsons
Captain Gourmet
Caralbe Greement
Caralbe Yachts
Carenantilles
Carene Shop
Chris Doyle's Guides
Cooper Marine


UK
Antigua
Antigua
Grenada
Petite Martinique
Venezuela
St Vincent
Mustique
Bequla
Carriacou
Sint Maarten
Tortola
Antigua
Grenada
Union Island
Martinique
Guadeloupe
Martinique
Martinique
Caribbean
USA


Corea's Food Store Mustque Mustique
Curagao Marine Curagao
Diesel Outfitters St Maarten
Discovery Margot St Lucia


Dockwise Yacht Transport
Dominica Marine Center
Dopco Travel
Doris Fresh Food
Douglas Yacht Services
Down Island Real Estate
Doyle Offshore Sails
Echo Marine Jotun Special
Errol Flynn Marina
Falmouth Harbour Marina
Fernando's Hideaway


Martinique 31
Dominica 48
Grenada 33
Bequla 45
Martinique 24
Carriacou 47
Tortola 3
Trinidad 5
Jamaica 17
Antigua 16
Bequla 46


Food Fair Grenada
Franglpani Hotel Bequla
Fred Marine Guadeloupe
Friendship Rose Bequla
Gourmet Foods St Vincent
Grenada Marine Grenada
Grenadine Island Villas Bequla
Grenadines Sails Bequla
GRPro-Clean Martinique
Horizon Yacht Management Tortola
lolaire Enterprises UK
Island Dreams Yacht Services Grenada
Island Water World Sint Maarten
Jack's Bar Bequla


46
37
49
42
44
28
30
9
48
13
25/43
47
56
44


Johnson Hardware
Jones Maritime
KP Marine
Lagoon Marina Hotel
Lagoonleville
Le Ship
LIAT
Lulley's Tackle
Mac's Pizza
Marenco
Mclntyre Bros Ltd
Mid Atlantic Yacht Services
Navimca
Northern Lights Generators
Peake Yacht Brokerage
Perkins Engines
Pett St Vincent
Ponton du Bakoua
Porthole Restaurant
Prickly Bay Marina
Renaissance Marina
Salty Dog Sports Bar
Santa Barbara Resorts
Schip-O-Case
Sea and Sail


St Lucia
St Crolx
St Vincent
St Vincent
St Thomas
Martinique
Caribbean
Bequla
Bequla
Barbados
Grenada
Azores
Venezuela
Tortola
Trinidad
Tortola
PSV
Martinique
Bequla
Grenada
Aruba
Bequla
Curagao
Guadeloupe
Guadeloupe


Sea Services
Sevenstar Yacht Transport
Shelter Bay Marina
Silver Diving
Simpson Bay Marina
Soper's Hole Marina
Spice Island Marine
St Thomas Yacht Sales
Superwind
SVG Air
Tikal Arts & Crafts
Trade Winds Cruising
True Blue Bay
Turbulence Sails
Tyrrel Bay Yacht Haulout
Vemasca
Virgin Gorda Yacht Harbour
Volles Assistance
Volvo
Wallace & Co
Wallilabou Anchorage
Perkins Engines
Xanadu
Yacht Shipping Ltd


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UK
Panama
Carriacou
St Maarten
Tortola
Grenada
St Thomas
Germany
St Vincent
Grenada
Bequla
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Full Text

PAGE 1

MARCH 2008 NO. 150TheCaribbeansMonthlyLookatSea&Shore TIM WRIGHT / WWW.PHOTOACTION.COM Grenada Sailing Festival 2008See story on page 10 On-line

PAGE 2

MARCH 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 2

PAGE 3

MARCH 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 3

PAGE 4

MARCH 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 4 Cruzan RacingFor young and old.................13A Cuba CruiseSouthwestern style................18Man, oh Mánamo!Visiting cultural change.........22Trini TimeCruisers at Carnival..............26BarbadosƒIs it worth the beat?..............28Sloop John S.Captain Smiths classic.........32 The Caribbeans Monthly Look at Sea & Shore MARCH 2008 € NUMBER 150 DEPARTMENTS Business Briefs........................8 Regatta News........................14 Destinations...........................18 All Ashoreƒ...........................28 Meridian Passage.................34 Sailors Horoscope................38 Island Poets...........................38 Cruising Crossword...............39 Cartoons................................39 Cruising Kids Corner............40 Dollys Deep Secrets.............40 Book Reviews........................42 Cooking with Cruisers...........44 Readers Forum.....................47 Whats On My Mind..............50 Caribbean Marketplace......52 Classified Ads........................54 Advertisers Index.................54Caribbean Compass welcomes submissions of short articles, news items, photos and drawings. See Writers Guidelines at www.caribbeancompass.com. Send submissions to sally@caribbeancompass.com. We support free speech! But the content of advertisements, columns, articles and letters to the editor are the sole responsibility of the advertiser, writer or correspondent, and Compass Publishing Ltd. accepts no responsibility for any statements made therein. Letters and submissions may be edited for length and clarity. Compass Publishing Ltd. accepts no liability for delayed distribution or printing quality as these services are supplied by other companies. ©2008 Compass Publishing Ltd. All rights reserved. No reproduction, copy or transmission of this publication, except short excerpts for review purposes, may be made without written permission of Compass Publishing Ltd. Caribbean Compass is published monthly by Compass Publishing Ltd., P.O. Box 175 BQ, Bequia, St. Vincent and the Grenadines. Tel: (784) 457-3409, Fax: (784) 457-3410, compass@vincysurf.com www.caribbeancompass.comEditor...........................................Sally Erdle sally@caribbeancompass.com Assistant Editor...................Elaine Ollivierre jsprat@caribsurf.com Advertising & Distribution........Tom Hopman tom@caribbeancompass.com Art, Design & Production......Wilfred Dederer wide@caribbeancompass.com Accounting.................................Debra Davis debra@caribbeancompass.comCompass Agents by Island:Antigua: Ad Sales & Distribution Lucy Tulloch Tel (268) 774-6657 lucy@thelucy.com Barbados: Distribution Norman Faria Tel/Fax: (246) 426-0861 nfaria@caribsurf.com Curaçao: Distribution Cees de Jong Tel: (5999) 767-9042, Fax: (5999) 767-9003, stbarba@attglobal.net Dominica: Distribution Hubert J. Winston Dominica Marine Center, 24 Victoria Street, Roseau, Tel: (767) 448-2705, info@dominicamarinecenter.com Grenada/Carriacou/Petite Martinique: Ad Sales & Distribution Alan Hooper Tel: (473) 409-9451 sark@spiceisle.com Guadeloupe: Ad Sales & Distribution Stéphane LegendreMob: + 590 (0) 6 90 49 45 90steflegendre@wanadoo.fr Martinique: Ad Sales & Distribution Isabelle Prado Tel: (0596) 596 68 69 71, Mob: + 596 (0) 696 93 26 38 isabelle.prado@wanadoo.fr St. Lucia: Distribution Wayne Barthelmy Tel: (758) 584-1292, waynebarthelmy@hotmail.com St. Maarten/St. Barths/Guadeloupe: Distribution Eric Bendahan (599) 553 3850 Ad Sales Stéphane LegendreTel/Fax: + 590 (0) 5 90 84 53 10 Mob: + 590 (0) 6 90 49 45 90contact@transcaraibes.com St. Thomas/USVI: Distribution Bryan Lezama Tel: (340) 774 7931, blezama1@earthlink.net St. Vincent & the Grenadines: Ad Sales Debra Davis, Tel: (784) 457-3527, debra@caribbeancompass.com Tortola/BVI: Distribution Gladys Jones Tel: (284) 494-2830, Fax: (284) 494-1584 Trinidad: Ad Sales & Distribution Jack Dausend Tel: 868) 634-2622 Mob: (868) 620-0978 jackd@boatersenterprise.com Venezuela: Ad Sales & Distribution Patty Tomasik Tel: (58-281) 265-3844 Tel/Fax: (58-281) 265-2448, xanadumarine@cantv.net www.caribbeancompass.com ISSN 1605 1998 Cover: Grenada Sailing Festival 2008 Photo: Tim Wright / www.photoaction.com CALENDAR MARCH1 Spanish Town Fishermens Jamboree and 12th Annual Wahoo Tournament, BVI 3 H. Lavitty Stoutes Birthday (celebrated). Public holiday in BVI 6 Budget Marine Commodores Cup, St. Maarten. www.heinekenregatta.com 6 9 28th St. Maarten Heineken Regatta. www.heinekenregatta.com 6 9 13th Annual Tobago Game Fishing Tournament. www.tgft.com 7 9 Blues & Rhythms Festival, St. Vincent. www.svgtourism.com 7 10 11th Annual Dark and Stormy Regatta, BVI. West End Yacht Club (WEYC), Tortola, BVI, mvh@surfbvi.com, www.weyc.net 8 International Womens Day 9 23 6th Annual St. John Blues Festival. www.stjohnbluesfestival.com 10 Commonwealth Day. Public holiday in some places 14 National Heroes Day. Public holiday in St. Vincent & the Grenadines 14 16 Culebra Heineken International Regatta and Culebra International Dinghy Regatta, Puerto Rico. www.culebrainternationalregatta.com 15 16 Le Trophée Gardel Race, Guadeloupe. www.Trophee-gardel.com 15 16 Antigua Laser Open. Antigua Yacht Club (AYC), www.antiguayachtclub.com 17 St. Patricks Day. Public holiday in Montserrat; festival in St. Patricks, Grenada 20 Holy Thursday. Public holiday in USVI 20 International Earth Day, Beach and dive clean-ups in many places 20 Compass Annual Writers Brunch, Bequia. sally@caribbeancompass.com 20 24 Bequia Easter Regatta. www.begos.com/easterregatta 20 24 Easterval, Union Island, St. Vincent Grenadines. melissaj@vincysurf.com 21 FULL MOON 21 Good Friday. Public holiday in many places 21 23 Grenada Round-the-Island Easter Regatta. www.aroundgrenada.com 22 Emancipation Day. Public holiday in Puerto Rico 24 25 Goat and Crab Races, Mt. Pleasant and Buccoo Village, Tobago 23 Easter Sunday 23 Nevis to St. Kitts Cross-Channel Swim 24 Easter Monday. Public holiday in many places 27 30 St. Barths Bucket Race. www.newportbucket.com/StBarthsIndex.htm 28 30 35th International Rolex Regatta, St. Thomas, USVI. www.rolexcupregatta.com 29 Apr 20 Transcaraibes Rally, Guadeloupe to Cuba. www.transcaraibes.com 30 Spiritual Baptist Liberation Day. Public holiday in Trinidad & Tobago 31 Apr 6 BVI Spring Regatta & Sailing Festival. www.bvispringregatta.orgAPRIL6 26 St. Thomas USVI Carnival. www.vicarnival.com 11 13 Curaçao International Kite Festival. www.curacaokites.com 12 Clean-Up Dive, Bonaire 17 22 Antigua Classic Yacht Regatta. SEE AD ON PAGE 17 17 3 May St. Maarten Carnival. www.stmaartencarnival.com 19 Virgin Queen Pizza Pursuit Race, BVI. RBVIYC 19 Declaration of Independence Day. Public holiday in Venezuela 20 FULL MOON 22 Earth Day 24 Guadeloupe to Antigua Race. AYC 25 27 Carriacou Maroon Music Festival. www.grenadagrenadines.com/fest.html 25 27 Plymouth Jazz Festival, Tobago. www.tobagojazzfest.com 27 May 3 41st Stanford Antigua Sailing Week. www.sailingweek.com 28 National Heroes Day. Public holiday in Barbados 30 Queens Birthday. Public holiday in Netherlands Antilles. Windsurf race in Bonaire TBA Caribbean Film Festival, St. Barts. www.st-barths.com All information was correct to the best of our knowledge at the time this issue of Compass went to press „ but plans change, so please contact event organizers directly for confirmation. If you would like a nautical or tourism event listed FREE in our calendar, please send the name and date(s) of the event and the name and contact information of the organizing body to sally@caribbeancompass.com BILL BATESTEVE MANLEYDEAN BARNES

PAGE 5

MARCH 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 5 Rodney Bay Lagoon Dredging Dredging has commenced around Rodney Bay Marina, St. Lucia, in preparation for the installation of new docks. As dredging proceeds, anchoring may be prohibited in certain areas of the outer lagoon only; the inner lagoon and Rodney Bay proper will be unaffected. Before anchoring in the outer lagoon, call Rodney Bay Marina on VHF 16. Superyacht Zapped by Lightning John Burnie reports: During a thunderstorm in January, the German Frers-designed sloop Keturah , a New Zealand-built, alloy sister ship to the well-known superyachts Unfurled and Vesper , was struck by lightning on the dock at the Catamaran Club, Falmouth Harbour, Antigua. The boat caught fire and was towed away from the dock and into shallow water where the rig fell down. She eventually burnt to the waterline and was totally destroyed. Amazing that a lightning strike can do this to a 30-metre (93-foot) yacht. Hotspots After a lengthy period with virtually no yacht-crime reports from northeastern Venezuela, that area has had a rash of incidents. Among the most recent are the following, as extracted from reports by the Caribbean Safety & Security Net: January 2nd, Cabo San Francisco. At mid-afternoon, a yacht was approached by five men in a pirogue with a 75-horsepower Yamaha. After trying to sell drugs and then asking for water, the men attempted to board the yacht but were repelled. January 12th, Porlamar, Margarita. Three men armed with a shotgun and two pistols stole an unspecified amount of cash. January 13th, Mochima Town. Two men armed with a gun and a knife boarded a yacht, tied up its crew and looted it. The captain was able to identify one of the robbers to police. January 15th, Robedal, Margarita. A yacht was boarded and its occupants robbed by five armed men. The yachts captain was shot and hospitalized. January 26th, Los Testigos. A yacht was boarded and its occupants robbed by five armed men. The yachts captain was shot and hospitalized. „Continued on next page Info& Updates JOHN BURNIEDoes your insurance cover this? Keturah was destroyed by lightning The anchorage at Robledal, Margarita, was the scene of one of the armed yacht robberies reported from northeastern Venezuela in January

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MARCH 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 6 Simplicity. Reliability. Long life.Antigua Marine Power Services English Harbour Ph: 268-460-1850 Fx: 268-460-1851 mps@candw.ag Seagull Yacht Services English Harbour Ph: 268-460-3050 Fx: 268-460-1767 info@seagullyachtservices.com Bequia Caribbean Diesel Port Elizabeth Ph/Fx: 784-457-311 Grenada Enza Marine Grand Anse Ph: 473-439-2049 Fx: 473-439-2049 enzamarine@spiceisle.com Grenada Marine St. David's Ph: 473-443-1667 Fx: 473-443-1668 info@grenadamarine.com Martinique Inboard Diesel Service Port of Case Pilote Ph: 596-596-787-196 Fx: 596-596-788-075 info@inboarddiesel.com St Croix St. Croix Marine Christiansted Ph: 340-773-0289 Fx: 340-778-8974 St. John Coral Bay Marine Coral Bay Ph: 340-776-6665 Fx: 340-776-6859 cbmarine@islands.vi St Lucia The Sail Loft Rodney Bay Marina Ph: 758-452-1222 Fx: 758-452-4333 iwwsl.ltd@candw.lc St Maarten Electec Cole Bay Ph: 599-544-2051 Fx: 599-544-3641 sales@electec.info St Thomas All Points Marine Compass Point Marina Ph: 340-775-9912 Fx: 340-779-2457 Trinidad Diesel Technology Services Siparta Ph: 868-649-2487 Fx: 868-649-9091 dieseltec@hotmail.com Dockyard Electrics Chaguaramas Ph: 868-634-4272 Fx: 868-634-4933 Richard@dockyardelectrics.com Tortola Cay Electronics Road Town, Tortola Ph: 284-494-2400 Fx: 284-494-5389 caybvi@candwbvi.net Marine Maintenance Services Road Town, Tortola Ph: 284-494-3494 Fx: 284-494-8491 timdabbs@surfbvi.com Parts & Power Road Town, Tortola Ph: 284-494-2830 Fx: 284-494-1584 partspwr@surfbvi.com „Continued from previous page For more information visit www.safetyandsecuritynet.com and www.onsa.org.ve/riskzonesmaps. In related news, in mid-February, law-enforcement officers and businesspeople in the Young Island Cut/Villa area of St. Vincent met to discuss the deterrence of crimes against yachts. However, according to informed sources an incident involving the Danish skipper of the yacht Lucia , while moored at Young Island Cut on January 26th, was not a robbery. Authorities say that the skipper, wanted for unspecified crimes in Europe, attempted suicide while his shipmates were ashore having dinner. The skipper, identified as Henrik Tarp, was found on a nearby beach the next day with a knife wound on his neck. He reportedly told police that after cutting himself and jumping overboard, he had changed his mindŽ and swum ashore. Visa Reprieve for St. Maarten-Bound Crew In January, Dutch officials agreed to allow megayacht crew from more than 120 countries to enter St. Maarten without a visa until July 1, as long as they have a letter of guarantee from their agent that they will leave. The European Union requires visas from some visitors. Because St. Maarten is a part of the Netherlands Antilles, it, too, must follow that rule. As Lucy Chabot Reed reported in The Triton on January 29th, when the EU first imposed the requirement, the St. Maarten Marine Trades Association (SMMTA) secured a grace period that permitted yacht crew from affected countries to enter under their seamans book. After July 1, affected yacht crew will need a visa from a Dutch embassy to enter St. Maarten. These visas are not obtainable in the Caribbean. For a complete list of nationalities needing a visa to enter St. Maarten visit www.netherlands-embassy.org.uk. For more information visit www.smmta.com. Eight Bells We regret to inform Compass readers of the death in early February of yachtsman, gentleman and Grenadines tourism pioneer Hazen HazeŽ Richardson. Chris Doyle wrote in the Sailors Guide to the Windward Islands : Back in the late 50s, Haze Richardson and Doug Terman quit flying for the US Air Force and with what little money they could beg, borrow and scrape, they bought an old wooden yacht called Jacinta and set sail for the Caribbean. They chartered, and one of their clients was Willis Nichols, who thought it would be fun to buy a Caribbean island and build a hotel. Haze and Doug were asked to build itƒŽ This island was Petit St. Vincent, better known as PSV, which Haze and Doug transformed from an uninhabited 113-acre island to a unique first-class resort of 22 cottages, one of the longest running success stories in the Caribbean. PSV was also home to the unforgettable PSV Regatta, which was a highlight of the regional racing scene in the late 1970s and early 1980s. Hazes unexpected end reportedly came after striking his head on a submerged rock while bodysurfing in Costa Rica. He is survived by his wife, Lynn, family, friends and PSV staff. He was 73 years old. Chris writes: Valentines Day 2008 marked the end of an era. For it was the memorial service for Haze Richardson. In a thoughtful gesture, his widow, Lynn, arranged a local memorial service in Petite Martinique „ even before the funeral in his native United States had taken place. People came by plane, speedboat and yacht from Grenada, St. Vincent and throughout the Grenadines to pay their last resects to this dignified man. The church (the same Catholic church where Haze and Lynn were married) was packed to overflowing. It was an upbeat service with lively music and a eulogy by fellow pilot Jonathon Palmer. „Continued on next page Above: A string band including PSVs boat captain Chester Belmar (second from right) played a final farewell to the islands leading light Left: Flags at Petite Martinique flew at half-mast in honor of Haze RichardsonCHRIS DOYLE (2)

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MARCH 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 7 „Continued from previous page All the flags in Petite Martinique were at half-mast and had been since the news. After all, Haze, in creating Petit St. Vincent Resort out of a deserted island and running it perfectly for all these years had changed the lives of many of the people present. The Grenadines wont be the same without him. After the service everyone went by boat to PSV where a magnificent lunch was had, and PSVs long-time launch captain Chester and friends got to play a little music. People then headed away in different directions. I sailed back to Union Island on Jambalaya . Sailing on a traditional locally built schooner seemed like a fitting finale to saying good-bye „ to both Haze and a whole time period. For when he and I arrived in the islands, all cargo went by schooner or sloop and the fishing fleets still set out under sail. Nothing lasts forever. I am sure we all wish Lynn the best of luck in continuing with PSV, which to all of us is a special place. US Coast Guard to Continue HF Weather Broadcasts On February 11th, Sailworld.com reported: Last April the US Coast Guard asked for public comment on the need to continue broadcasting high frequency (HF) high seas weather forecasts for single sideband voice, facsimile charts and text messages over radiotelex (e.g. HF NAVTEX). The Coast Guard required public comment because the infrastructure necessary to provide these services had exceeded its life expectancy and significant costs were involved to continue these services. After reviewing and analyzing the substantial public response that overwhelmingly urged the continuation of these services, the Coast Guards business case studyŽ concluded that it was necessary to continue HF weather broadcasts. The business case study, An Impact Assessment of Discontinuing USCG High-Frequency Radio Broadcasts of NWS Marine Weather ForecastsŽ is posted at www.navcen.uscg.gov/marcomms/high_frequency/HF-WX_notice.htm. The study concluded: The responding public collectively perceives that the USCG HF broadcasts are essential to their safety. There is no viable alternative to the USCG HF broadcasts because present alternatives are perceived by the public to be out of financial reach. Also, marine weather forecasts available through these alternative sources may not guarantee the same level of accuracy, timeliness, and/or sufficiency as provided by the USCG HF broadcasts.Ž While the Coast Guard does not have funds necessary to replace all of its HF transmitters, funds are available to replace the 20 transmitters used for weather broadcasts. Grenadas Mutating Marine Sculpture The marine colonization at Grenadas underwater sculpture park has been a great success and many new sightings of corals, sponges, algae and marine life have been documented. To see the natural growth on and around the submerged concrete sculptures visit http://underwatersculpture.com/pages/gallery/underwater-gallery/index.htm. Or better yet, sail to Moliniere Bay on the islands west coast, put on your snorkel and mask, and visit them in person. Errata In the letter from Dalton Williams of S/Y Quietly in Februarys Readers Forum, it was stated that Heather Grant was a member of the Board of Directors of the Tobago Cays Marine Park. Heather says, There must have been a misunderstanding on his part when we were talking. I am not a board member of the TCMP and never have been. I did express some interest in his idea andsuggested he discuss his idea with the chairman of the TCMP board.Ž Whats With the Shark Hat? Readers have been asking, Whats the story with the photo of the guy with the shark balanced on his head?Ž in the last issue of Compass . Ralph Trout, author of that issues Bad Luck in a Great Place, Part OneŽ, about how he came to settle in Trinidad, says, We saw this guy walking along the road one day in Toco. He must have had his hands full.Ž Annual Writers Brunch Calling all Compass contributors! If youve had an article, photo or poem published in the Compass during the past 12 months, you are cordially invited to bring a guest and join us at this years Compass Writers Brunch on Thursday March 20th at the ever-popular Macs Pizzeria in Bequia. The Compass Writers Brunch is held just at the beginning of the Bequia Easter Regatta, so you can stay on for a whole weekend of fun. The party is absolutely free „ its our way of saying a special thank-you to everyone who helps make the Compass special! By reservation only. Please RSVP by March 17th to sally@caribbeancompass.com or phone Sally at (784) 457-3409. New E-Addresses for Compass The general Compass e-mail address compass@caribsurf.com will change to compass@vincysurf.com effective March 1st. Welcomae Aboard! In this issue of Compass we wlcome new advertisers By Design of Antigua, page 43; Gourmet Food of St. Vincent, page 44; and Lagoonieville books of the USVI, page 41. Good to have you with us!

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MARCH 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 8 TYRREL BAY YACHT HAULOUTCARRIACOU New environmentally friendly haulout 50-ton hoist, 18ft beam, 8ft draft Water Do it yourself or labour availableMini MarinaChandleryVHF: 16 tbyh@usa.net Tel/Fax: 473.443.8175 BUSINESSBRIEFSNorthern Lights Expands in its Golden Anniversary Year Northern Lights, a global leader in the manufacturing of marine diesel generator sets, Lugger propulsion engines and land-based diesel generators, will celebrate its 50th anniversary this year. Founded in 1958 as Alaska Marine & Equipment in Cooper Landing, Alaska, by Harold Walton Johnson, Northern Lights has grown into one of the marine industrys most respected companies. Starting with a line of industrial generators for Alaskan lodges and off-grid applications, Mr. Johnsons company soon developed a marinized generator set whose robust design and ease of service became the genset of choice for that regions demanding commercial fishing industry. The Lugger propulsion engine followed, utilizing the same core principals of reliable power production, durable build and simplicity of use and maintenance. Today, Northern Lights boasts three branch offices, global distributors and a network of nearly 300 factory-authorized dealers located in the worlds major ports of call. As a fitting mark of their continued growth in this their 50th anniversary year, Northern Lights recently announced the acquisition of Ft. Lauderdale-based Rich Beers Marine, Inc. Rich Beers Marine has manufactured the Technicold brand of air conditioning and refrigeration systems since 1981. Widely sought by yacht builders as well as commercial fishermen, the Technicold reputation for quality makes it an ideal match for Northern Lights. We look at the values displayed by Rich Beers Marine as consistent with our own,Ž said Northern Lights Manager of Marketing & Sales Administration Colin Puckett. ŽWe put our highest priority on engineering and craftsmanship. Our products are known for reliability, durability and simplicity.Ž Northern Lights officials see excellent opportunities in cross-branding the two companys goods, and greater value for their customers. The combination of Technicold products with Northern Lights generators will enable us to offer a more comprehensive solution to our customers. A vessels air conditioning and refrigeration systems can be designed and engineered in tandem with the generator set, which gives a greater overall efficiency to the electrical demands onboard,Ž Puckett explained. For more information see ad on page 6. Errol Flynn Gets Blue Flag In the European Marine Community a Blue FlagŽ is the watchword for marinas that are in total compliance with all environmental standards, and which can measure up to the constant scrutiny of the relevant rating committee. The Errol Flynn Marina in Port Antonio, Jamaica is now flying the Blue Flag for the third consecutive year „ and is rightly proud of this achievement! Errol Flynn is one of only three Caribbean marinas that presently hold this Blue Riband of marina compliance, making only minimal impact on their environment. In addition to the marina, their impeccably maintained white sand beach also joined the exclusive group of beaches certified for Blue Flag recognition. And theres more! While some Caribbean marina facilities may still cling to high daily or hourly charges for internet service, theres no charge for clients at Errol Flynn. They offer both high-speed wi-fi 24 hours a day and free use of their internet café PCs during regular business hours. For more information see ad on page 17. Discovery Developers Announce Group Restructuring Following the successful completion and opening of Discovery, the Superyacht Marina and the Marina Village at Marigot Bay, St. Lucia, Doubloon International Ltd has announced a corporate re-organisation to align resources for future tasks as the group passes from the DevelopmentŽ stage to OperationsŽ. Discovery at Marigot Bay is managed for Doubloon by GLA Hotels of Paris, France, a leading operator of upscale boutique hotels, with considerable experience in the Caribbean. John Jones, a real estate entrepreneur based in Paris, remains the Chairman of Doubloon International Ltd. as well as its principal financier and shareholder. At the initiative of John Jones, Doubloon has recruited a highly experienced hotel operations consultant to monitor the performance of both Discovery and GLA Hotels. „Continued on next page CHRIS DOYLE

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MARCH 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 9 Bequia MarinaOpen Monday to Saturday 8:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m.Look for the Big Blue Building and ask for Stan or Miguel! Water, Diesel, Ice, Bottled Water and Dockage available. The Yacht Club, Bequia Marina, Port Elizabeth, Bequia, St. Vincent & The Grenadines VHF 68; Telephone 784-457-3361 Icom VHF Garmin GPS Accessories Leatherman Penn Reels Penn Parts Penn Service and repair Phone/Fax: 784 458 3360 wallco@caribsurf.comSome people call us the most interesting shop in the Caribbean.Ž Wander around. You will find things you have been seeking for ages. We offer a wide range of hardware as well as necessary accessories and spares. Looking for a table hinge, a hatch spring, or a ladder? Come to us and get the right screws with it one time. Want to catch fish? Get a simple hand line with a lure just right for the speed of your boat, or go for a rod and reel to help you win the next fishing tournament. We take pride in sharing our expertise with you because we want YOU to succeed. Diving or snorkeling? We have it all: suits, tanks, belts, masks, fins and snorkels. We even have prescription lenses for the masks. Electronics, marine electronics, 12 & 24 volts, inverters, lights, sockets, navigation, charts, guides, marine hardware, blocks, cleats, SS fasteners, rope, Spectra, pumps, hoses, complete diving, snorkeling and fishing gear.The ONLY Duty Free Chandlery in Bequia Hablamos EspañolNous parlons FrançaisWir sprechen Deutsch GRENADINES SAILS & CANVASBEQUIACome in and see us for all your SAILS & CANVAS needs including CUSTOM-MADE stainless steel BIMINI & DODGER frames at competitive pricesLocated opposite G.Y.E. (northern side of Admiralty Bay) Tel (784) 457-3507 / 457-3527 (evenings) e-mail: gsails@vincysurf.com VHF Ch16/68 REPRESENTATIVE LULLEYS TACKLE SHOPFISHING & DIVING GEAR DUTY FREETEL: (784) 458-3420 FAX: (784) 458-3797 EMAIL: lulley@caribsurf.comOur stock, quality, price, know-how and fishing experience is unsurpassedVisit us for all your needsFRONT STREET BEQUIA WEST INDIESSERVING FISHERMEN AND YACHTSPEOPLE SINCE 1950Penn & Diawa Rods & Reels Mustad Hooks Anglers Lures Rigged & Unrigged Leaders Fresh Bait Foul Weather Gear Snorkeling & Diving Gear Courtesy Flags Collectable KnivesYOUR #1 CHOICE IN FISHING GEARWire, Floats, Nets, Twines, Ropes „Continued from previous page As of January 1, 2008, Doubloon Services Ltd (DSL), the project development team responsible for planning, construction and fitting-out of the hotel and marina facilities, de-merged from the group and will now operate as an independentproject development group. DSL continues to be managed by John Verity, who also remains Managing Director and a significant shareholder in Doubloon International Ltd. In addition to continuing to provide supervision and support to the existing Marigot businesses, DSL is alsoreviewing a number of new St. Lucian hospitality and real estate projects. Having completed the job of selling the Discovery and Marina Village Apartments, Doubloon Real Estate Ltd (DREL) also de-merged from the group and is now an independent real estate agency. Managed by David Farrin in partnership with John Verity, DREL will focus on a number of new real estate sales projects in St Lucia, and has already entered into contracts with developers to sell villas and apartments worth in excess of US$50 million. DREL will work closely with DSL on new projects, providing a fully integrated service to developers. Finally, the completed Marina Village „ a waterfront retail and commercial complex at Marigot Bay serving both the hotel and marina „ has been placed under the management of Bob Hathaway and his Marina management team to develop the synergy and inter-dependence between the Village facilities and visiting yachts. For more information see ad on page 14. Quantum Sails in Trinidad Quantum Sails „ no stranger to anyone with a sailboat „ now have an office in Trinidad where they can handle your new-sail requirements. Orders are designed in the Quantum head office in Annapolis and made to the stringent Quantum specifications and workmanship at their loft in Cape Town, South Africa. The Cape Town loft is the second largest loft in the world and turns out large sails at a rate of 80 per week. And now you can access Quantum Sails in Trinidad! For more information see ad in Marketplace on page 53. Crossing the Atlantic in a 21-Foot Trawler? Yves Kinard is a Belgian naval architect and boatbuilder who has been established in Saint Martin for over 13 years. He has designed a variety of different vessels ranging from sailing yachts to pleasure motorboats, and from fishing boats to megayachts. In 2004, he embarked on a project to create a small, comfortable and seaworthy motorboat with low fuel consumption, which would ultimately be able to cross the Atlantic. The result was the 6.5-metre Mayrik P214 MiniTrawler with Perkins M92B engine. In 2009, Kinard hopes to launch a powerboat race, which will include the Mayrik P214, racing from Saint Martin in the French West Indies to Saint Martin de Ré, near La Rochelle in France, with a refuelling stop in the Azores. One of the aims of the race, for which sponsorship is still invited, is to draw attention to the need for real fuel economy in these times of dwindling natural resources. To promote this event, Kinard plans to make a maiden Atlantic crossing in his Mayrik P214 in the early summer of 2008. For more information visit www.mayrik.comand click on P214.

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MARCH 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 10 Sabre M135QUIET CLEAN POWER M65 M92B M115T M135 M225Ti M265Ti M300TiThis naturally aspirated engine boasts premium engine features for reliability, minimal down time and service costs. Its operator and environment friendly with low noise and low emissions achieved with the new 'QUADRAM' combustion system and fully closed breather system. The M135 is an excellent repower choice. One of the most compact packages in its class, it has been designed to permit a wide range of operating angles and also offers easy access to all routine servicing points in either single or twin installations. High capacity heat exchange equipment with cupro-nickel tube stacks ensure low component operating temperatures for exceptionally reliable and durable performance. Leak free operation is ensured by an integral plate oil cooler and special crankshaft seals giving protection in the toughest conditions. Competitive engine and parts pricing, extended service intervals and exceptionally low fuel consumption make the M135 a cost effective choice with significant owner savings over alternative engines.Generating 135 hp at a modest 2600 rpm in a 6 liter engine ensures a long life in a bullet proof package.Call us on (284) 494 2830 for a dealer near you. The14thannual double-barreled Grenada Sailing Festival was held from January 25th through 29th, under the new title sponsorship of Port Louis Marina for the events four-day keelboat series and Digicel for the two-day Workboat Regatta. Competitors came from as far as Venezuela, North America and Europe. Local and regional yacht racers with prior experience in this event dominated the Racing and Cruising Classes, while in the J/24 and Charter Classes, sailors from Canada and the Netherlands took first prize respectively. For the 30entries in the yacht fleets Racing I, Racing II, Cruising, J/24 and Charter Classes, the first race on Saturday began at True Blue Bay on the islands south coast in 18 knots of wind. Although Grenadian life-long sailor Champie Evans Swan 48 , Julia, led the Cruising Class fleet across the finish line at Grand Anse, last years class winner, Carriacouborn and Trinidad-based Jerome McQuilkins Beneteau Oceanis Wayward, placed first on corrected time. Overall Racing Class winner in Grenada Sailing Festival 2007, the Trinidad-built Soca 43 Storm, skippered by Peter Peake, topped the first race in Racing Class I. Also from Trinidad, Paul Solomon in the Henderson 35 Enzyme, a class winner in this events 2005 edition , took the lead in Racing Class 2. Sailed by Robbie Yearwood, the Grenada Yacht Clubs J/24 Blew By You „ the events 2006 class winner „ blew to the head of the J/24s, and Ambrosia, a Bavaria 42 chartered by R. Pfeiffer of the Netherlands , took first in Charter Class. For the Saturdays second race, a windward-leeward course off spectacular Grand Anse Beach, the yachts were joined by a Port Louis Traditional Class comprising the Carriacou-built Margeto and Jambalaya , and the newly launched [see Launching in Petite MartiniqueŽ by Susan Payetta, Compass , February 2008] Savvy . Margeto won the day. Wayward,Storm, Enzyme and Ambrosia took their second bullets. In the J/24 Class, another Grenada Yacht Club J/24, Tempest, skippered by Mark Solomon, had a win. Saturdays third race took the yachts back to True Blue, with upsets in Racing I when Combat , a Beneteau First 40.7 sailed by Hugh Pringle of Great Britain, corrected ahead of Storm , and Jabulani , skippered by Dave Tod of Canada, topped the J/24s. „Continued on next page Grenada Sailing Festival 2008Familiar Faces and Light-Air Races Left: A Storm was brewing, and it swept to the top of Racing Class I Below: Racing Class II winner, Enzyme , was also named Best of the BestALL PHOTOS: TIM WRIGHT / WWW.PHOTOACTION.COM

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MARCH 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 11 „Continued from previous page On the Sunday, a deliberately short triangle course off the south coast saw more changes. Beneteaus YoYo! , a First 47.7 sailed by Spencer and Russell Whitworth of Great Britain (Racing I), and Wajang, a First 10 sailed by Darcy Carr of Trinidad (Cruising) , joined Enzyme, Ambrosia, Blew By You and Margeto as class winners on corrected time. The days one short yacht race allowed the keelboat competitors the opportunity to watch the workboat races, or even buy a racing-crew place in one „ a fundraising effort for the Junior Workboat sailing program. More than 30 indigenous workboats from Grenadas fishing communities of Gouyave, Sauteurs and Woburn, and sister islands Carriacou and Petite Martinique, were contesting the Grenada National Team Sailing Championship titles of Coca Cola Junior Champion and United Insurance Senior Champion. New sails for the one-design GSF16s, in which the winning skippers in each class battled each other for the Digicel Skipper of the Year prize, were courtesy of United Insurance. The last workboat race was a real nail-biter, with the Woburn team passing the guys from Petite Martinique at the last mark to take the lead „ only to capsize! The Junior Sailing Champion team was Woburn, the Senior Champion team was Sauteurs, and the Skipper of the Year title was captured by Ken De Roche of Petite Martinique. The keelboats continued to race on the Monday with two long triangles off Grenadas south coast for all classes except Traditional, which had completed its series. Due to diminishing winds, the course was shortened. The J/24s saw Tempest and Blew By You finishing within two seconds of one another in Race Five. In Race Six, the first boats across the line in each class were also first on corrected time: Wayward (Cruising), Storm (Racing I), Enzyme (Racing II), Jabulani (J/24) and Andiamo (Charter: Moorings 44.3, Menno Van Kommer, Netherlands). The last day of the Port Louis Grenada Sailing Festival 2008 featured the optional Moet Pursuit Race from True Blue to Grand Anse, raced in very light airs. The race committee decided that, since the wind was so slight in Grand Anse Bay, instead of attempting triangles there theyd send the fleet back to the breezier south coast for the last race. The unseasonal wind pattern did provide a downwind start, great for spectators with all the spinnakers in view. The final races winners on corrected time were Storm, David Cullens Grenada-based J/109 Pocket Rocket, Jerry Stewarts Carriacou-based Hughes 38 Bloody Mary, Ambrosia and Jabulani . After four days and seven races, overall winners were: Racing I, Storm ; Racing II, Enzyme ; Cruising, Wayward ; Charter, Ambrosia; and J/24, Jabulani . Enzyme was awarded the Port Louis Trophy as the Best of the Best. Next years Grenada Sailing Festival will take place January 30th through February 3rd. Thanks to MaryAnn Hambly-Williams for information used in this report. For complete results visit www.grenadasailingfestival.com Above: Margeto from Carriacou was victorious in Traditional Class Left: One-design GSF16s surging toward the finish

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MARCH 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 12 Barbadian Andrew Burke, well known in regional competitive yachting circles for amazing victories in regional regattas since the 1970s at the helm of his self-designed and -built fiberglass sloops Nefertiti and Countdown , has won yet another prize. Not a trophy to add to his impressive collection. Not the winning cheque. Not yet another outboard motor or case of beer. This one was perhaps the most memorable of all: the gratitude and admiration of the Barbadian government and people after he sailed singlehanded around Barbados on February 10th to raise funds for the Barbados Cancer Society. SinglehandedŽ is the operative word. Not only in the sense boating people know it „ having one person on board. Andrew circumnavigated the 21-mile-long by 14-mile-wide island literally with one hand. You see, in 2005 doctors removed his left hand and shoulder blade to stop the spread of brachial plexus cancer. He is presently receiving chemo treatment for cancer recently found in his heart. Notwithstanding the quip of a friend of mine, who joined hundreds of islanders and tourists to welcome him at back at the Careenage Harbour in the capital Bridgetown, that the veteran sailor could have easily done it without any handsŽ, Andrews awareness-raising feat was greatly admired. Both the islands Prime Minister, David Thompson, and Minister of Sports, Dr. Esther Suckoo-Byer, termed it a remarkable achievement. This is a celebration of the indomitable human spirit and shows what we can accomplish through sheer will,Ž noted the Sports Minister. In her remarks, Honorary Secretary of the Barbados Cancer Society, Dr. Dorothy Cooke-Johnson, disclosed that the target of Bds$150,000 (US$75,000) had been surpassed in what was dubbed the Sail from the HeartŽ. We can double that,Ž she urged the enthusiastic and sometimes emotional gathering. Many eyes were moistened as little seven-year-old Xavier Greenidge, who had one of his legs amputated because of cancer, presented Andrew with a gift. He had earlier in the day, at Andrews special request, pressed the starting-horn button. For his part, Andrew said, I never gave up. Life goes on (after a diagnosis). I keep going. I have something to live for.Ž He was embraced by his wife, Sally, at trips end and his son Christopher was part of the tieup crew at the Careenage. Of the actual sail, Andrew said the winds were gusty that day (up to 30 knots) but he trimmed the sails to suit and was actually two hours ahead of schedule after he rounded the islands north point during the anti-clockwise circling. Andrews boat, Regent One , is a 43-foot Beneteau Idylle and former charter boat. The trip started at 0600 and he was back at the Carlisle Bay finishing line by 1600. Peter Burke, Rear Commodore of the Barbados Yacht Club, part of the organising committee and Andrews cousin, said in an interview everything went well. Asked whether the committee would look into Andrews suggestion, made in his remarks at the Careenage, that he was now considering sailing non-stop Barbados-toBalliceaux (an island in the Vincentian Grenadines 110 miles away) if the target monies were doubled, Peter said they would consider it.. Well done, Andrew! We join others in wishing a long life to you! Andrew Burke's Sail from the Heartby Norman Faria Greeted by Barbados Yacht Club bartender Imor, Andrew celebrates his successful solo island circumnavigation and funds raised for his islands Cancer Society Barbadoss ultimate single-hander arriving back at the Careenage on a blustery dayRENATA GOODRIDGE NORMAN FARIA

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MARCH 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 13 15TH ANNUAL ST. CROIX INTERNATIONAL REGATTA Horizon Yacht Management . . . a dedicated private management serviceBVI Antigua Grenada St. Martin 284 494 8787 268 562 4725 473 439 1000 599 544 3329 info@horizonyachtcharters.com info@antiguahorizon.com horizonyachts@spiceisle.com horizonsxm@gmail.comAuthorized dealers Secure Moorings & Dockage Routine Maintenance Technical Installations New and Used Yacht Brokerage Full Service Marinas Professional DeliveryFour great locations, one great management service www.horizonyachtmanagement.com www.horizon-yacht-sales.com HorizonYacht Management BAVARIA YACHTS The Devil outsmarted Mother Nature at the 15th annual St. Croix International Regatta, held February 9th and 10th out of the St. Croix Yacht Club in the US Virgin Islands. In reality, it was the combined expertise of the Stanton brothers „ Chris on the helm, Peter calling tactics, and Scott on jib trim „ that powered their Melges 24, Devil 3 , through 18to 25-knot winds and fiveto six-foot seas to a win in the Spinnaker Racing II Class. The win, achieved in the regattas most competitive class, also earned skipper Chris his weight in Cruzan Rum „ the signature prize in this sailing event. Devil 3 successfully defended its champion title from 2007, but while the boat was the same, the crew was new. Im back from college and able to race with my brothers this year,Ž says Scott. In addition, high-school friend and former dinghy sailor, Larry Malanga, was aboard. Tactically though, It all came down to the fact that we were able to really power up on the downwinds,Ž says Scott. This helped us stay ahead of the other Melges 24 ( Silver , skippered by fellow Crucian, Morgan Dale), and J Walker (helmed by St. Thomas Chris Thompson).Ž Thirty-five boats hailing from Puerto Rico, the US Virgin Islands, British Virgin Islands and St. Maarten competed in this kick-off event for the Caribbean Ocean Racing Triangle (C.O.R.T. Series), which includes the Culebra Heineken International Regatta in March and BVI Spring Regatta & Sailing Festival in April. The BVIs Christopher Lloyds highly modified Beneteau 445 Three Harkoms won the Spinnaker I class with a pick-up crew of talented sailors and a string of nothing but bullets to show for their efforts. Yet, all eyes were on a pair of sleek Farr 40s that also competed in this class. OnDeck Ocean Racing out of St. Thomas wanted to get their Farrs race-charter ready and asked if wed help,Ž explains John Holmberg. So, we put the word out and received over 30 responses from the US mainland and Caribbean for crew slots. In the end, one Farr was crewed mainly by Crucian sailors and the other by St. Thomians. In spite of the Crucians having some crew with Farr 40 experience on board, we Thomians won.Ž In the Racer-Cruiser class, the BVIs Guy Eldridge made a clean sweep in his brand-new Beneteau 10R, Luxury Girl . We sold the Melges ( Mistress Quickly ) and bought this boat instead to be able to take our friends out with us,Ž says Eldridge. In spite of the boat being new, the crew is well experienced. Six of our nine crew used to race aboard Mermaid , including Doyle sailmaker, Mark Ploch,Ž cites Eldridge, as the secret to success. Competition in the IC24 class was as hot as ever, however the Puerto Ricans aboard Orion finished the event with an almost unheard of ten-point lead. The key was to keep the boat flat in all that chop...and going fast,Ž says skipper Fraito Lugo, the man whos responsible for a fleet of eight IC24s now race-ready in Ponce. St. Croixs Jeff Fangmans El Presidente won the Jib & Main Class with Tony Sanpere, racing his home, Cayenne III , right on his heels. Finally, in the Beach Cat Class, the father-and-son team of Chris Schreiber Senior and Junior won after a heated match race with St. Thomass Paul Stoken aboard Hobie 16s. It was all good fun,Ž says Schriber, at the tiller of Auto World Express . The Valentines Day Optimist Regatta is an event for junior sailors sailed at the same time the big boats are competing in the St. Croix International Regatta. Twenty-seven juniors, representing all three US Virgin Islands, the British Virgin Islands and Puerto Rico competed. Puerto Ricos Ivan Aponte won the event on points after two throw-outs were calculated as the racing instructions dictated. His triumph was over St. Thomas Nikole NikkiŽ Barnes who would have placed first if no throw-outs were allowed, but still rose to the podium to take the Top Girl prize. ST. CROIX INTERNATIONAL REGATTA 2008 CLASS WINNERS Spinnaker Racing I (5 boats) Three Harkoms , Modified Beneteau 445, Christopher Lloyd, BVI (7) Spinnaker Racing II (11 boats) Devil 3 , Melges 24, Chris Stanton, St. Croix, USVI (7) Racer Cruiser (7 boats) Luxury Girl , Beneteau 10R, Guy Eldridge, BVI (12) Jib & Main (4 boats) El Presidente , Thomas 35, Jeff Fangman, St. Croix, USVI (7) IC24 (6 boats) Orion , Fraito Lugo, Puerto Rico (30)) Beach Cat (3 boats) Auto World Express , Hobie 16, Chris Schreiber, St. Croix, USVI (10) VALENTINES DAY OPTIMIST REGATTA 2008 FLEET WINNERS Overall Ivan Aponte, Las Palmas Sailing Association, PR (15) Red Fleet (Ages 13 to 15; eight boats) Ivan Aponte, Las Palmas Sailing Association, PR (15)) Blue Fleet (Ages 11 and 12; four boats) Victor Aponte, Las Palmas Sailing Association, PR (35)) White Fleet (Age 10 & Under; seven boats) Jonathan Woods, Royal BVI Yacht Club, BVI (91)) Green Fleet (Beginner; nine boats) DJ Lorshbaugh, Frederiksted Community Boating Program, St. Croix, USVI (15) For complete results visit www.stcroixyc.com THE C.O.R.T. KICK-OFFby Carol Bareuther DEAN BARNESThree Harkoms slices through the seas en route to a win in Spinnaker Racing I at the St. Croix International

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MARCH 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 14 RegattaNewsAntigua Classic Yacht Regatta Back in the 1960s, the captains and crews of classic yachts that were gathered in English Harbour, Antigua, challenged each other to a race to Guadeloupe and back to celebrate the end of the charter season. From this informal race, Antigua Race Week was formalized in 1967 „ in those days all of the yachts were classics. As the years passed, the classics were gradually outnumbered by modern racing yachts and the Classic Class was abandoned in 1987. However, that year seven classic yachts turned out and were placed in Cruising Class 3 with the bareboats. The class was so unmatched that it was downright dangerous, so Captain Uli Pruesse hosted a meeting aboard Aschanti of Saba with several classic skippers and in 1988 the Antigua Classic Yacht Regatta was born, with seven boats. Since then, the Antigua Classic has evolved into one of the worlds pre-eminent classic yacht events, attracting between 50 and 60 spectacularly beautiful sailing vessels each year. This regatta is truly in a class of its own. The Antigua Classic Yacht Regatta 2008 will run from April 17th through 22nd. For more information see ad on page 17. Guadeloupes First Zion Cup Stéphane Legendre reports: This inaugural Zion Cup regatta took place on January 12th and 13th at Vieux Fort, Basse Terre, Guadeloupe. Zion in the Créole language means forest/rootsŽ which is exactly what Basse Terre is all about. The unusual selection of the area of Vieux Fort, at the southwestern tip of Guadeloupe facing the Saintes, was a wonderful idea, as the Saintes channels gusty winds and strong currents play tricks if one does not anticipate both. Two boats experienced these tricks during the races, with one JPK28 capsized and one monohull losing its mast. The Vieux Fort locals authenticity and natural friendliness, and the beauty of the Bay Dupuy small fishing harbor also make this regatta fun for all. Twenty-one participants enjoyed the two-day regatta organized by the Club Nautique of Basse Terre and CFun, a windsurfing club at Vieux Fort. The weather was fine and wind was smooth the first day. The Saturday races were over by 1600 hours and crews who had enough energy left could try their hands at sailing the traditional local boats. By 1800 hours everyone had a try and it was time for drinks and dinner served on the harbor jetty next to the Terminus Bar in a friendly atmosphere mixing with local fishermen. The wind strengthened on the Sunday and gusts came down from the nearby mountain. By 1400 hours, the racing was over and the prizegiving ceremony took place early enough to allow crews from Pointe-àPitre to reach the marina before dark. We are sure next year everyone wants to be back, and sailors from other islands are more than welcome to join the fun! The Zion Cup 2008 winners were: RACING/RACING-CRUISING CLASS 1) Paulista , J/120, Jean Luc Vasse 2) Marie Marie , Feeling 10.40, Franck Soret 3) Griotte , First 310, Pascal Durand COASTAL & CRUISING 1) Mac Village , Muscadet, Eric Michel 2) Oiseau du Soleil , First 305Q, Danés Sébastien 3) YouYouTo , First 27.7, Colette Erivan For more information contact info@zioncup.orgor visit www.zioncup.org. „Continued on next page CHRIS DOYLEAlong with an exceptional array of schooners, we expect to see sumptuous sloops and cutters (like the St. Kitts-built 12-Metre Kate , shown here), classy ketches and noble yawls in this years Antigua Classic line-up

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MARCH 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 15 „Continued from previous page Record Dorado at Spice Island Billfish Tournament What a great turnout! What with 90 billfish releases and a record-breaking 53-pound dorado at the 39th running of this tournament, January 16th through 19th, everyone was pleased. Thirty-six boats carrying 175 anglers arrived at the Grenada Yacht Club to participate in the event, with boats entered from Trinidad & Tobago, St. Lucia, Barbados, Martinique, the United Kingdom and Grenada. By the end of the competition, 15 blue marlin were released plus one landed, 54 sailfish released and nine white marlin released. Two dorado, one wahoo and 11 yellowfin tuna were brought to the scale. This year the boats paraded through the Carenage in St. Georges on their way to the start, allowing the public and media an opportunity to view them before they headed offshore to fish. Nigel Hypolite, fishing on local boat Crazy Horse , caught a bull dorado weighing 53 pounds to beat the long-standing tournament record and earn an EC$1,000 prize. At the awards ceremony and closing dinner held at the Grenada Yacht Club the winners were: First Place Boat: Hard Play II of Tobago First Place Angler: Matthew Armstrong aboard Challenge II of Barbados Top Release Angler (3 releases): Matthew Armstrong Top Release Boat (8 releases): Par-T-Time of Trinidad Top Female Angler: Claudia Calase aboard Legacy of Barbados Boat Pool (weight of fish brought to the scale): Challenge II of Barbados Top Grenadian Boat: Risky Business The SIBT committee thanks all their sponsors, especially Carib Beer and Island Water World. BVI Governors Cup The Governors Cup Race, held on January 19th, was organized by the Royal British Virgin Islands Yacht Club and sponsored by his Excellency the Governor David Pearey. Five boats entered. Starting in Road Harbour, Tortola, they raced across the Channel to round Dead Chest to starboard. Christopher Lloyds Beneteau 445, Three Harkoms , with the Governor on board as crew, quickly took the lead and was first to set their spinnaker. Hot on their heels was Dave Wests Chippewa , a Melges 32, with some top BVI racers on board. The boats raced past Peter Island, rounding Norman Island to starboard. Three Harkoms had some gear failure at this point and retired. Chippewa , first around the back side of Norman Island, was unable to hoist its spinnaker for the exciting run in the big waves. West commented afterwards that he was disappointed at not being able to give his crew the exciting sleigh ride he had promised in these ideal conditions for the Melges 32. The Sirena 38 Pipe Dream , with Chris Haycraft helming, was second round Norman Island, recording top speeds of 14.4 knots while surfing. Guy Eldridge on his new Beneteau First 10R , Luxury Girl , followed in third place, with Presley King steering. Latitude 19 , the only IC24 entered, was close behind. The finish was a fetch from Norman Island to the Yacht Club House at Road Reef. Prizegiving was done by RBVIYC Commodore Clair Burke, with the Governor presenting prizes and the annual trophy to the winners. Overall winners and their corrected times were: 1) Luxury Girl , Guy Eldridge: 2 hours, 17 minutes, 24 seconds 2) Latitude 19 , Colin Rathbun: 2 hours, 17 minutes, 31 seconds 3) Pipe Dream , Chris Haycraft: 2 hours, 18 minutes, 34 seconds Antigua Young Achievers Go Sailing! Jolly Harbour Yacht Club has joined forces with Antiguas Young Achievers Club, a local initiative run by Clarence Pilgrim, who is helping the islands young entrepreneurs realize their goals. On February 1st, schoolteacher Neikeisha George brought six young recruits to try their hand at sailing. Ashley Quinlan, Shemeka Baltimore and Connell Joseph from Pares Secondary School joined JHYC Commodore Brian Turton onboard Miramar . Moniefa Joseph of Princess Margaret School, Shamari Riley of Clare Hall Secondary School and Verdanci Benta from Antigua Girls High School teamed up with the clubs Rick Gormley aboard Elethea . Ms. George has 36 children lined up on a rota system to participate in this weekly event. This is very encouraging for Tanner Jones, who is heading a voluntary team renovating five Sunfish dinghies to enable JHYC to form a Youth Division. For more information visit www.jhycantigua.com. World ARC Yacht Rescues Drifting Fisherman World ARC 2008 is a new round-the-world yacht rally that departed from Rodney Bay, St. Lucia, on January 23rd. It will finish back in the Caribbean in late March 2009. The World ARC yacht Tillymint „ an Oyster 82 and the largest yacht in the fleet „ participated in the dramatic rescue of a Caribbean fisherman while en route to Panama. The small open fishing vessel Vegas from St. Lucia had been drifting for 20 days without a working engine. In the early hours of January 26th, approximately 80 nautical miles off Aruba, the on-watch crew of Tillymint heard faint cries for help, though they could not see another vessel. In the time it took the crew to drop sails, turn the yacht and head back upwind in 25 knots of wind to the incident position, the crew of the Vegas had started a small fire to attract attention. Unfortunately, their signal fire went out of control before Tillymint reached them, and Vegas  crewƒ „Continued on next page Lets go sailing! Young Achievers in Antigua team up with Jolly Harbour Yacht Club members to get out on the waterALEX NIKOLIC

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MARCH 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 16 € Excellent dockage for Super-yachts up to 350 LOA, 21 Draft € 30 stern-to berths, 30 alongside berths with full marina facilities € Electricity (110, 220 & 380 3-phase), water, fuel, telephone & internet, cable TV, 24hr security, garbage disposal & washroom € Drive-down dock providing easy access for large shipments & marine services www.antigua-marina.com falmar@candw.ag Tel: +1 268 460 6054 Fax: +1 268 460 6055 Falmouth Harbour Marina „Continued from previous page ƒjumped into the sea to escape the flames. Tillymint s crew brought one fisherman aboard, but they were unable to locate the remaining three. Under the direction of MRCC Curaçao, Tillymint conducted a search of the area around the wreckage, joined at first light by other World ARC yachts Southern Princess, Grey Lady, Harmonie, Blue Flyer and Strega , and a Coastguard SAR aircraft. The Netherlands Coastguard ship Jaguar was sent to the area to co-ordinate the search. The St. Lucian survivor, Sherwin John, was evacuated onto the Jaguar . MRCC Curaçao called off the search at 1830 hours local time of the same day, having failed to locate the three missing crew. All World ARC yachts resumed their course for Panama. For more information on World ARC visit www.worldcruising.com. Necol Regatta a Peak in St. Maartens Local Racing A strong representation of the best sailors on the island in very challenging early-February conditions made the Necol Regatta an outstanding event in St. Maarten. Sailing took place off the airport runway and returned to the St. Maarten Yacht Club for nourishment and social events. Ten teams sailed ten identical one-design boats (with three or four crew) and changed boats twice during the event. Principal of Necol, Andrew Rapley, served as Race Officer, and Race Judge Simon Manley heard a number of protests. The winds presented extreme challenges as speeds varied between zero and 25 knots with changes occurring in seconds, causing crews to react quickly or broach. Competitive crews constantly adjusted their trim. Frits Bus and his team of Rien Korteknie and Garth Steyn dominated on points. Second place went to the North Sails team led by Ernst Looser with Andrea Scarabelli helming. Luc Knol took third from Bernard Sillem after the latter lost a race by missing a mark. St. Maarten Regatta Kids Art Competition On February 2nd, enthusiastic children aged four to 14 and their parents and teachers visited the Sint Maarten Yacht Club in Simpson Bay, for the prizegiving of the 9th Annual Kids Art Competition organized by the club and the St. Maarten Heineken Regatta. All the schoolchildren on the Dutch side of the island received the assignment for this competition, whose goal is to involve the local children in the regatta, and help them to get in touch with sailing. Judges Petra Gilders (Sint Maarten Yacht Club), Ruby Bute, Antoine Chapon and Lucia Trifan (artists) selected the winners for four age groups. The first-prize winners of each category are: Nadja van den Boogert from the Sister Marie Laurence School (4 and 5 years old), Samantha Heemskerk from the Caribbean International Academy (6 to 8 years old), Steven Cloose from the Sister Regina School (9 to 11 years old), and Sophia and Maike from the Sister Magda Primary School (boat project). The Prins Willem Alexander School won first prize for its class project „ a huge boat made out of recycled materials; the Hillside Christian Elementary School and the Sundial School also won prizes. Thanks to the numerous local companies who generously sponsored prizes. Visiting Teams at Schoelcher Week, Martinique Young Trinidad sailors dominated the Laser and Optimist Classes at the 19th Sailing Week of theƒ „Continued on next page Sophia and Maike from the Sister Magda Primary School in St. Maarten accept a prize for their Heineken Regatta Art Competition boat project Team St. Lucia celebrating at Schoelcher Week prizegiving, where Luis Meixner took third place in the Laser Standards

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MARCH 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 17 Contact John Louis € 876-715-6044 € 876-873-4412 e-mail: info@errolflynnm arina.com€VHF Channel 16 www.errolflynnmarina.com Navigating the good life Out of the Water Storage Up to 95 FeetThe only 100-ton travel lift in this part of the Caribbean, servicing yachts up to 95' in length.PROTECT YOUR INVESTMENT ON THE WATER THIS HURRICANE SEASONFull Service Marina100 Ton Travel-lift24 Hour FuelPaint ShedsEngine and Part SpecialistsDuty Free Zone in MarinaProtected HarborDepth Up to 25 Feet at Face DockOpen Air Market 1 Minute by FootDowntown Nightlife24 Hour Security Gated MarinaRestaurant,Beach Bar & Grille Introducing the NEWErrol Flynn Marina & BoatyardPORT ANTONIO,JAMAICA „Continued from previous page ƒSchoelcher Pan American Championship, held February 1st through 5th in Martinique,returning home with six medals, including two gold, from four classes entered. Rain showers and gusts up to 20 knots greeted the sailors daily. Near-shore courses made for difficult shifts and gusts. Wesley Scott consistently scored top-three finishes in the Optimist Class to finish third in a high-quality fleet of 65 boats. Derek Poon Tip made the podium in third place in the under-12 category. Matthew Scott and Anthony Alkins took turns at winning races at the front of the Laser 4.7 classs 21-boat fleet, with Scott eventually taking the event from Alkins with a race to spare. It was a similar story in the Laser Radial Class where the Leighton brothers, Stuart and James, regularly exchanged positions at the front before Stuart took the title with a race to spare. Best wishes to Stuart, James and team-mate Aaron Barcant, who will represent Trinidad & Tobago at the Laser Radial Worlds in New Zealand this month. The St. Lucia Dinghy Sailing Programme also sent a team to compete in the Schoelcher regatta, with their eight young sailors and two coaches joining over a hundred sailors of different nationalities. The St. Lucians sailed to Martinique aboard St. Lucia Yacht Club members yachts, Clara, Turtle and II Restless , with their dinghies strapped to the decks. In the Laser Radial Class, 18-year-old Fred Sweeney just missed third place by a few points, putting him fourth overall. Luis Meixner, 16, in the Laser Standard Class was the Team St. Lucias award-winning sailor, placing third. The St. Lucia Dinghy Sailing Programme thanks the St. Lucia Yacht Club and the St. Lucia Olympic Committee for their continued support. The Transcaraibes Rally The 9th edition of the Transcaraibes Rally will sail from Guadeloupe to Cuba between March 29th and April 20th. Enjoying two free nights dockage at Marina Bas du Fort in Guadeloupe (monohulls are also offered a free haul-out!), rally participants will sail to Marina Fort Louis in St Martin, where parties and another two free nights dockage await. Onward to the BVI, for three nights at anchor, then to Casa de Campo Marina in the Dominican Republic „ special entertainment and three nights dockage included there. The next legs are to anchorages at Las Salinas and Bahia Las Aguilas. The final leg arrives in Santiago de Cuba, where seven nights free dockage give participants ample time for sightseeing. A gala farewell party, Cuban style, rounds out the adventure. For more information see ad on page 52. At Schoelcher, the Opti Under-12 winners included Trinidads Derek Poon Tip (second from right) in third place

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MARCH 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 18 BAREBOAT CHARTERS FULLY CREWED CHARTERS ASA SAILING SCHOOLPO Box 39, Blue Lagoon, St Vincent, West Indies Tel. 1-784-456-9526 / 9334 / 9144 Fax. 1-784-456-9238 barebum@caribsurf.com www.barefootyachts.com Barefoot Yacht Charters & Marine Centre € Doyle Sail Loft & Canvas Shop€ Raymarine Electronics€ Refrigeration Work € Mechanical & Electrical Repairs€ Fibreglass Repairs€ Laundry € Vehicle Rentals€ Showers€ Air Travel € Ice & Water€ Diesel & Propane€ Moorings € Island Tours€ Surftech Surf Shop€ Hotel Reservations € Quiksilver Surf wear€ Restaurant & Bar€ Boutique € On-site Accommodation€ Wi-Fi / Internet Café€ Book Exchange Since1984Now, I want you to think carefully about what I am going to tell you. The south coast of Cuba is approximately 780 miles long. That is roughly equivalent to the distance from Cape Hatteras to Miami and 200 miles more than from Lands End to John o Groats by fast crow. It is also about 200 miles more than the distance between St. Thomas and Grenada. This lengthy coastline has but three marinas, which are also the ports of entry for visiting yachts. Therefore, you might think that the marinas would be crowded, with space difficult to find. On December 26th 2006, the marina at Cayo Largo, the only one in 300 miles between Cienfuegos and the western end of Cuba, held precisely six yachts. Yes, thats right, six boats, and of these, four were local charter cats based in the marina. „Continued on next pageD D D D E E E E S S S S T T T T I I I I N N N N A A A A T T T T I I I I O O O O N N N N S S S S Southwest CubaPart One: UNCROWDED AND UNUSUALby Christopher Price

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MARCH 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 19 „Continued from previous page There was one other visiting British yacht -„and us! We had arrived that morning from Antigua and, having been used to the crowded routes and harbors of the Eastern Caribbean, it was immediately clear to us that Cuba was going to be completely different. Planning The idea of going to Cuba had first taken root a few years before and this had given us plenty of time for homework. We started by looking at the available pilot books „ two in number „ and opted for Nigel Calders Cuba: A Cruising Guide . We also bought the Lonely Planet Guide, as well as making a visit to the Cuban Tourist Office in London to collect a load of info. Calder is quite emphatic that the only charts worth considering are those produced by the Cuban Government, and although this 1998 opinion may be somewhat outdated, I have seen nothing of later publications that has caused me to disagree with his view. Therefore, by a devious route that would take an order plus money from Florida to Havana to London to Mexico to Havana and finally Antigua, the relevant south coast charts were ordered about six months before our planned departure date. Our original intention was to leave Antigua early in December because, for us, the window of opportunity for sailing Cuban waters was a fairly small one. Our usual annual pattern is to remain around 12°N during the summer and, in practice, this means Grenada or thereabouts. In November we join the northerly migration and base ourselves around Antigua for the winter. The north coast of Cuba, frequently hit by northersŽ, is not considered an ideal cruising area until April or May and this led us, at a fairly early stage in the planning process, to decide that our objective would be to cruise the south coast during the first two or three months of the year. By mid-November our charts had not arrived. Upon chasingŽ the order we were told that they were out of print. Our friend Bill, who had already given us a considerable amount of useful advice about the Cuban south coast, told us that they were available in Toronto, but by then it was too late to re-order with any hope of them arriving in time. In the end, Bill lent us his charts and they proved to be invaluable. Shortly before our departure it became necessary for us to have some fairly extensive electrical work done on the boat. This took twice as long as anticipated and cost two to three times as much, but as the man said when he presented an extremely painful bill, Thats boats!Ž Throughout the extra week spent on anchor at Falmouth Harbor, the tradewinds blew at 20 to 25 knots, but predictably, very shortly after leaving on December 15th, they dropped to gentle breezes and our fast downhill run became a gentle amble. This included a total of 72 hours motoring when our speed dropped below two-and-a-half knots; our overall average for the passage was barely five knots. Isolation En Route Bill had already warned us that on the Cuban south coast we would have to get used to being on our own. Therefore, we were not entirely surprised by the very small number of boats we found on our arrival at Cayo Largo. However, our isolation started much earlier than expected. On leaving Falmouth, we headed west towards the bottom end of Nevis with two or three other boats within a mile or so of us. They then turned north towards St. Kitts while we carried on towards our next waypoint, off Cabo Beata, the southernmost tip of the Dominican Republic. We did not see another sailing yacht, or small vessel of any description, for the next nine days! As we passed to the south of the Mona and Windward Passages we saw a handful of large merchant vessels heading north or south, but apart from those „ nothing. We were, in fact, lucky to be in these waters at all. On our second night out, while motorsailing in a very light breeze, our autopilot failed totally and refused to communicate in any way, either with us or the rudder. The prospect of carrying on without OttoŽ was unthinkable and an immediate decision was made to divert to Marina Del Rey in Puerto Rico. This was thought to be the nearest and most likely place to have repairs carried out. We altered course to the north and shortly thereafter the wind rose to 30 knots. Most of the rest of the night was spent hand steering, but at least we were making good speed. At about 0430 I pressed the button again and was enormously relieved to find that Otto was working perfectly. Obviously we had experienced a temporary withdrawal of labor rather than a full-scale strike, but as we had both been up all night we decided to divert to Puerto Patillas in southern Puerto Rico in order to catch up on some sleep and check the steering thoroughly. We anchored at 0800, hit the sack for three hours and I then carried out a detailed inspection and test of the entire steering system. I could find nothing wrong, Otto was working perfectly, so we hauled the anchor and set off again along the south coast of Puerto Rico towards Cabo Beata. Arriving in Cuba Approaching Cuba from the east, across the Windward Passage, the first 200 miles is mostly steepto with mountains rising to nearly 4,000 feet very close to the coast. There are, however, the odd little hidey-holes, such as Guantánamo Bay and Santiago de Cuba. I will keep to myself my opinion of what goes on at the former. The latter is Cubas second largest city, is a port of entry and also has one of the very rare south coast marinas. It has been described as the Cradle of the Revolution and as such is considered a mustŽ from a tourist point of view. However, Nigel Calder describes the harbor as the filthiest he has ever visited, with the marina being a beat-up affair with bits of steel re-bar sticking out and threatening to damage your topsides every time the boat is hit by the wake of a passing vesselŽ. While recognizing that things might have improved since Calder reported, we were not so attracted by the cultural delights of Santiago to risk either damage or degradation to our boat and we decided to give it a miss. After 200 miles of rocky coastline with very few decent anchorages, the south coast of Cuba curves away to the northwest, ending in Cabo San Antonio more than 500 miles away. This long coastline forms a huge bay, the outer or southern edge of which is marked, for all but 150 miles, by an outer fringe of cays which stand on the edge of a near-vertical drop to 14,000 feet. Between the cays and the mainland, sometimes a distance of 60 miles, is a vast shallow shelf, rarely more than 50 feet deep, which is also scattered with hundreds, possibly thousands, of cays. In the middle of this huge shelf is a deep inlet which carries depths of 6,000 feet almost to the mainland coast. There is a further narrow inlet called the Bay of Pigs (Bahía de Cochinos), of which some readers may have heard. As cruisers, we have a taste for lonely deserted places and it was these vast shallow areas that really tempted us to Cuba. Hence our decision to begin our cruise towards the western end of the island, at Cayo Largo, which is also a port of entry. Clearing In Before leaving Antigua we had attended a talk given by Commodore José Miguel Diaz Escrich, Director of the International Yacht Club at Marina Hemingway, Havana. His main objective was to encourage the owners and skippers of mega-yachts to cruise in Cuban waters. He was anxious to emphasize that Cuban entry regulations are no different from those anywhere else. „Continued on next page Public tranport in Cienfeugos

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MARCH 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 20 „Continued from previous page On the afternoon of December 26th, we were about to find out for ourselves. The first official on the scene after we made fast was from the Ministry of the Interior. He just hung around on the pontoon, but clearly he was there to make sure we did not go ashore. Shortly thereafter the procession started, and between 2:30PMand 10:30 the following morning we were visited by nine men and a dog. It seems we got off very lightly, because other visitors writing in Compass a few months ago reported that it took 30 men and three dogs to clear them into Cuba! [ See Cuba: Fair Winds and Friendly FacesŽ by Bernie Katchor, September 2007. ] All our visitors „ from the doctor, to the coast guards, the frontier guards and the Ministry of Interior and Agriculture personnel „ were courteous, friendly and helpful. As they came aboard they removed their shoes, shook hands and introduced themselves before getting down to some very serious form filling. This was the huge difference we found between Cuba and anywhere else we have visited on either side of the Atlantic. The forms seemed to be endless in number, but they fill them in! Before leaving Antigua we had prepared data sheets, in Spanish, which gave every detail we could think of about ourselves and the boat, from place of birth to height of mast to type of outboard fuel. Copies were handed to the officials as they came aboard, received with gratitude and they then sat at the cockpit table and laboriously filled in their forms. Our cruising permit, or despacho, was prepared, the appropriate stamps were obtained from the local post office and we were then asked if we had any glue, because the stamps were non-adhesive. Fortunately, we did. They were duly affixed and cancelled with an impressive rubber stamp, and we were almost ready to start cruising. But not quiteƒ. At 10:30 the following morning, we were visited by two men from the Ministry of Agriculture, who apologized for their late arrival. Our onions were inspected with a magnifying glass, we were instructed to eat our vacuum-packed salami without delay, and we were allowed to keep our thyme plant on the clear understanding that we would not take it ashore for a walk. At the end of the entry process we concluded that Commodore Escrich may have been right in arguing that Cuban requirements are no different from those elsewhere. On the other hand, nowhere else have we seen the requirements applied in such detail, with such rigor „ and with such charm. And so to provisioning. After 11 days at sea, we were virtually out of fresh fruit and vegetables and needed to do some shopping. At this point we began to realize that our decision to make a landfall at Cayo Largo was not, perhaps, our smartest move of the year. Although one of the larger offshore cays it was, like almost all of them, uninhabited, at least until the mid-1960s. Castro then decided to create an international tourist resort there, which now boasts eight or nine all-inclusive hotels and, of course, an airport. There are no permanent Cuban residents, although there is a dormitory village for the hotel and service staff who fly in from the mainland for twoto three-week tours of duty. As the staff are all fed in their canteens and the hotel guests stay on a fullboard basis, who needs food shops? We were saved from starvation by the marina manager, who gave us a list of fruit and vegetables that might be available from the central store. Having made our choice we were promised delivery the following day. What arrived bore little relationship to that which had been ordered; however, there really was no alternative. We then discovered a small, closed supermarketŽ. It opened at our request, but the only stock consisted of a limited range of canned fruit and vegetables, mostly of Chinese origin. Anyway, with a combination of stuff from the back doors of hotel kitchens, Chinese tins, and the contents of our freezer we felt that we could keep starvation at bay for another week or so. Cayo Largo to Siguanea Three days after our arrival at Cayo Largo we headed west with the declared intention of proceeding to Marina Siguanea, about 150 miles down-wind. I say declaredŽ because that was what it said on our despacho . But, as we were to discover, this was by no means as restrictive as it might appear. We were free to make as many stops and take as long on the way as we wished, providing that we didnt go into an undeclared port. Had we done so, I think we would have run into problems simply because it wasnt on our despacho , but we were very pleasantly surprised by the degree of freedom we had. „Continued on next page Cuba is famous for its lovingly preserved American cars, some of which are well over 60 years old. This Chevy is early Fifties.

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MARCH 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 21 Your Expert Guide to Carriacous Best Diving Find us right in the town of Hillsborough! Phone/Fax (473) 443-7882 and VHF CH 16 scubamax@spiceisle.com www.scubamax.com €Daily dives at 9.30 am and 1.30 pm or individually €Air-Fills at PADI 5 * Standard €Scuba and Snorkel Gear Rental € PADI Courses from Beginner to Instructor & 15 Specialties in English & Deutsch €Rendezvous Service for Sailors at Hillsborough, Sandy Island & Tyrrel-Bay €Special Group Prices for Sailors INSTRUCTOR TRAINING B & C FUELS ENTERPRISEWelcomes you to Petite MartiniqueA stepping stone as you cruise through St. Vincent, Grenada and the Grenadines. Come alongside our splendid jetty and replenish your supplies of FUEL, OIL, WATER and ICE at the cheapest prices in the Grenadines. Call sign: Golf SierraŽ VHF channel 16 For further information call Glenn Clement or Reynold Belmar. Tel/Fax: (473) 443-9110 WALLILABOU ANCHORAGEWALLILABOU BAY HOTELVHF Ch 16 & 68(range limited by the hills) ... PORT OF ENTRY MOORING FACILITIES WATER, ICE, SHOWERS CARIBEE BATIK BOUTIQUE BAR AND RESTAURANT TOURS ARRANGED CREDIT CARDS ACCEPTED HAPPY HOUR 5-6 P.O. Box 851, St. Vincent & the Grenadines, West Indies. Tel: (784) 458-7270 Fax: (784) 457-9917 E-mail: wallanch@caribsurf.com „Continued from previous page South, farther along the Butler, is San Fernando (SandoŽ), the home of great hardware stores and specialized gasket and hose vendors. The suppliers of the oil and gas companies are there. Driving here is best left to a guide, as no street seems direct. A great restaurant is Uncle Sams, close to the Butler exit. For a totally stylish lunch or dinner, do Soons Great Wall. It is the placeŽ to celebrate an occasion. Jennys original restaurant is also in Sando. Southern Getaways Trinidads Tourism Department is located in Port of Spain and has excellent information available. They supply a booklet of available registeredŽ guesthouses all over the island. So if you want to get away from your boat or the yard, take a longer road trip. You wont be sorry. Pertinent direction signs have been installed. Follow the main road to Pointe-àPierre and the Wildlife Trust for sedate birdwatching. Follow the same road through huge coconut estates to Icacos on the islands southwest point. It is a usually quiet village on the Gulf of Paria. If you arrive in the early afternoon you might be able to get a deal on some fresh fish. Use your map and wind eastward through Erin and Moruga to Rio Claro and to the southeast point of Mayaro. This is on the Atlantic side and Mayaro is a tourist center with plenty of guesthouses. Drive north, since thats the only road, along a palm-lined coast to another tourist center, the beach at Manzanilla. There are inexpensive guesthouses available. On the rise leaving the beach towards Sangre Grande is The Last Stop, an excellent place to get a local favorite snack of shark and bakeŽ. Follow that road and it will take you to the Churchill Roosevelt and back west to Chaguaramas. Most of the southern and eastern parts of Trinidad are still old styleŽ rural, with only a few oil and gas pipes visible. Sugarcane fields and the sugar industry have almost vanished. There are a lot of small breakfast and lunch spots along the routes. Fresh fish, shrimp, crab, fruits and vegetables can easily be purchased at roadside vendors. Always try to pull entirely off the road safely or go on to the next vendor. North Coast Day Trips The road from Port of Spain to the north coast is another weekday trip. Maracas Bay, the best known of any Trini beach and home to numerous shark and bake vendors, is packed on weekends. Trinis love to eat and drink while at the beach. Scotch is the beverage of choice. Designated drivers havent really made it yet, neither has the Breathalyzer or the radar gun. The roads are narrow and the drop-offs steep and deadly. Beyond Maracas is Las Cuevas Beach, the calmest and clearest. This incredibly scenic road will take you to another great beach at Blanchisseuse where a river enters the ocean. This is a great spot for a picnic, or look for Freds place for a superb lunch and cocktails. If you arent exhausted and the sun is still high, take the road across the mountain to Arima. This route will pass the Asa Wright Nature Centre, famous for birdwatching. Excellent meals and accommodations are available at the Centre. Once in Arima, the Churchill Roosevelt will bring you west again. Arima also has an excellent horse track for monthly races (especially on Boxing Day). One of the finest of Trinidads road trips is to Toco on the northeast point. Follow the Churchill east to Valencia but take a left, rather than following it to Sangre Grande. Sections of this road are under repair, but it is also the main access to the quarries. Expect to see many dump trucks, but the drivers are usually courteous and safe. This road is incredibly scenic. The drive will pass an excellent beach and river intersection at Salybia, and a protected leatherback turtle nesting area at Ballandria. Gas is available in Cumuna, as is great local food at the Blue Restaurant. The lighthouse at Toco is a definite Kodak moment. Follow the road to Sans Souci and many excellent, relatively deserted beaches. Break Bay in Sans Souci is the only surfing beach in Trinidad. Grande Riviere is another tourist enclave with upscale restaurants and everything associated. This road ends in Matelot, a traditional fishing village, but before is the unbelievably picturesque Shark River, a great place to bathe in fresh water. The northeast coast is one of the few remaining parts of antique CaribbeanŽ Trinidad, while the remainder tries to accelerate into the modern first world. In the north, banana farmers still haul bunches off steep hills on their heads or on donkeys. This area is still relatively safe and reminds me of Jamaica in the early Seventies. Everyone is friendly and helpful to tourists. Youll hear soothing reggae rather than pounding hip-hop. Forget about governments and world problems, be wary of crime, and be happyŽ should be Trinidads 2008 motto. In Trinidad, a true melting pot, everyone, Indian, Chinese, African, Continental and Latino, seems to get along. Sports like cricket and especially soccer are a great common denominator. Carnival every spring is the mainstay of the culture. Petroleum and natural gas are the protectors of the economy. Enjoy the beautiful vistas and the many performing arts, but be careful. In every perspective, Trinidad has good value for the boating buck, with inexpensive escapes from yard and yacht drudgery. Just you and the bamboo. Trinidads interior provides great getaways from boatyard life

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MARCH 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 22 New marine center presents the latest Dutch innovation in boat handling equipment. Hauling capacity 45 tons and Catamarans up to 33ft beam. Safe dry storage with 24 hours security Long-term storage. AWLGRIP® indoor spray painting and many other services. We are located in the safe harbor of Willemstad. Curaçao Marine Email: curacaomarine@interneeds.net Phone: +(599 9) 465 8936 Fax: 465 8941 www.curacaomarine.com The day began at 5:00AMwith a black stillness. The water was calm with long shadows cast over the water from the shore. Its a new day and time to get moving for a wondrous journey is about to begin. The journey is taking us up the Mánamo River, an arm of the Orinoco, in Venezuela. We made our way to shore from the Trinidad anchorage at TTSA in the dark, on a glassy platform shattered only by the bow of the dinghy breaking the millpond surface. We hurried to the Customs Dock in Chaguaramas where we were greeted by the Customs officials who quickly processed our papers, then made our way back to our boat. With the motor breaking the stillness of the air and the morning sun just clearing the horizon, spreading a golden hue over the water, we headed out of the harbour with hopes that winds would rise as we ventured into the Gulf of Paria. We were joined by friends on another Tayana 42, called Sea Schell . The Gulf of Paria didnt yield the winds we were hoping for; however, we were blessed with calm waters, light winds and a smooth motor passage. The ten-and-a-half hour trip across the Gulf went by reasonably fast as there were numerous oil rigs along the way to look at. They are now derelict and stand as silent ghosts, black statues in the middle of a seamless ocean. At about 6:00PMwe pulled in front of the Pedernales townsite where we soon identified the military police outpost and anchored just east of it. The boat swung upstream and then downstream, the current silently choosing where we would sit. As darkness closed in, the sound of joyous Spanish songs, musical instruments and voices in harmony filtered through the trees. „Continued on next pageD D D D E E E E S S S S T T T T I I I I N N N N A A A A T T T T I I I I O O O O N N N N S S S S Mánamo River Adventure, Part One:Of Ibis and Electricityby Bill BateWe saw the article in the January issue on the Macareo River (and know the author) but the Mánamo River is quite a different trip. Just wanted to let you know they are two separate rivers. „ BB

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MARCH 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 23 „Continued from previous page The homes, which were stilt huts along the riverbank, began to darken giving us little view of our neighbours. The chorus of distant music was enhanced by the cries of egrets beginning to roost in the bushes along the shore. There were no boats traveling on the river, no activity around us, mostly stillness. There was no sense of threat, simply setting our nest next to a quiet peaceful community. We were feeling anxious, not about our security, but about our travels: to begin up the Mánamo River the following day. We had no previous river experience and no detailed charts to guide us. Morning came abruptly with the sound of outboard motors starting as fishermens pirogues began moving away from the dock loaded with people and heading out around the point for the Mánamo River. We went ashore with the intention of quickly checking into the country at the regional police station, having a look at the town, and topping up our liquid refreshment stock. The soldier who served us was polite and welcoming, he with limited English and us with next to no Spanish. We learned he just wanted to know the names of our boats and our destination, and he asked to view our passports. It was very informal and we were soon free to explore the community. The streets of Pedernales were busy and the people showed only modest curiosity about the strangers arriving in their town. As we wandered the streets we met the cruising family from Alouette who were also exploring the town. The children on Alouette excitedly told us they had seen local children playing with a monkey. The main street of the town appeared as though it had not changed much from the days of its founding. The streets were lined with the fronts of single-storey buildings with a variety of adobe style and western batter-board. The children were happily playing and everyone just seemed to be going about their day. It was Saturday and Election Day for the townfolk who were quite preoccupied with the election „ a referendum being put to the people by the government. On a side street we located a house with a sign advertising canned liquid refreshments for sale. Their prices were about US$7 for a 30-can case of beer, soda pop or Malta. Although we had sufficient Bolivars with us, we learned through the locals there were cambios in town which would exchange US dollars for local money at a very reasonable rate. With refreshments shouldered, we made our way back to our boats and headed upstream. Prior to leaving Trinidad we had purchased an information package about the river, done by previous cruisers. We were completely trusting in these as we had no official charts of the area. The Mánamo River was muddy and was obviously carrying a lot of silt. This made it difficult to judge where sandbars might be and, because the river was at the high water mark, the shore was pushed back to the forest. The trip up the river was wondrous. It was obvious we were heading into a land that few people, except the local Warao Indians, have seen. The forest was rich, lush green reaching from the waters edge to a canopy. „Continued on next page A modernized Warao home on the Mánamo River, boasting galvanized roofing instead of palm thatch, plus plastic bags, polyester clothes and electronic entertainment

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MARCH 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 24 IT'S MUCH MORE THAN A MARINA: IT'S HOME!WE OFFER: € 24 hour security € 120 concrete slip berths € Electricity: 220V/ 50amp; 110V/300amps (single phase and three phase) € 16ft channel € Fuel dock and bunkering € Free satellite TV at each slip € Telephone hook-up € Shower facilities € Wireless internet, banks and laundry within the complex € Pick-up and drop-off from major supermarkets We monitor VHF channels 16 & 79A (alpha … American system) P.O. Box 4540, Airport Road, Sint Maarten, N.A., Caribbean Tel: 599-5442309 Fax: 599-5443378 Visit our website: www.sbmarina.biz E-mail: reservations@sbmarina.biz Over and over again our guests refer to our marina as their "Home"! Join us this summer and continue to enjoy the hospitality.„Continued from previous page Beyond the border trees, open fields appeared from time to time as though the area had been cleared for agriculture. We learned later from Alouette that the area had previously been used for cattle ranching. As we meandered up the river we found ourselves becoming more comfortable with river travel, regardless of two soft groundings which bruised the ego but quickly released us to follow in the deeper channels of the river. After a fascinating three-hour run, we found ourselves at Ibis Island (09°47.573N, 062°16.714W) where we settled down to anchor at the southeast end of the island. As evening closed in, we found we had anchored by sheer luck at probably the most spectacular anchorage we had ever been in. Spectacular because, just as dusk was approaching and the sun was beginning to set, small clusters of Scarlet Ibis began flying in and settling on the island immediately next to our anchorage. For the next hour the ibis continued arriving in progressively larger flocks. The flocks were easily in the hundreds and the silvery green foliage began acquiring a scarlet hue and a smell began to drift over the anchorage, similar to a crowded henhouse. It turns out the south end of the island is a night-time roost for the Scarlet Ibis. Perhaps something in the range of 10,000 birds covered 90 percent of the trees over the space of 250 feet into the islands south tip. No longer was there much evidence of green, just a mass of scarlet. The sound was a continuous murmur of birds cooing and calling to each other within the rookery. This eventually quieted to near silence as darkness closed over. We had learned the ibis leave at sunrise so we planned to be up and in the dinghy closer to the island by first light. In the morning, exactly at first light, the ibis began to take flight, first in small groups followed by larger groups, until the entire sky became darkened and the sound of the birds taking off became a roar. Within 15 minutes the entire rookery was emptied and the birds were gone. The birds had left us with a sense of bewilderment and awe. We now had an expectation that the rest of the day was going to be either very exciting or very dull after such an extreme experience. To our delight, a dinghy ride up a side caño , which is a natural drainage canal from the forest, yielded a path deep into the forest wide enough for the dinghy to travel unobstructed. We discovered that, with the tidal flow going upstream, we could turn the dinghy motor off and ride the current silently into the forest. The forest bottom was dark and musty with beams of light breaking through. The eeriness gave way to wonderment. With our motor off, the forest was silent, broken only by the intermittent calls of birds. Brilliant, almost fluorescent blue butterflies, about the size of a Monarch butterfly, constantly fluttered aimlessly, dancing from bush to bush, never seeming to have a definite direction or goal, making their route highly unpredictable. We listened carefully for anything that might indicate a nearby monkey, as it was our hope that we would happen upon a troop of them. But none were found, and we realized that the area was devoid of fruits or foods the monkeys might eat. We found it necessary to motor back out, against the current. The noise of the motor deafened us to the sounds of the forest as we made our way out of the caño into the main river. After spending a second night anchored at Ibis Island and a repeat of the ibis experience, we headed up the Mánamo enjoying a morning cup of coffee under a bright sun and blue sky. Ahead, off the port side, was a village taking shape. It began with a couple of huts cut out of the forest and widely spaced, then the main community of huts which were all of the same style, on stilts without walls and with only thatched roof coverings. Women and children climbed into dugout canoes and hurriedly paddled in our direction. We slowed the yacht and were expecting that they wanted to trade for woven baskets and beaded necklaces. But they came, for the most part, emptyhanded. We gave out some flour and cooking oil and then asked for a tour of their village. They agreed and we went ashore together with our friends from Sea Schell . We made our way up a ramp onto an elevated boardwalk at the floor level of the stiltraised homes. A diesel generator drowned the other sounds of the village. Above the boardwalk, mounted on poles and strung from pole to pole, were exposed light bulbs, lit by the generator which appeared to be the only source of electric power. A severe culture change was happening before us. The fresh paint on the generator and the wall-less homes, revealing televisions and CD players, showed the electronic age and consumerism had hit this village recently. It was a shocking look at extremes. The village in itself and the lifestyle of the people appeared to be fundamentally near Stone Age, with open thatch-roofed huts the only protection from the elements. Contrast that to a diesel generator and families gathered around a television at midday, watching cartoons. One family proudly displayed a full-sized chest freezer that contained half a bottle of Coca Cola and a jug of water. There were no other contents „ the man was showing that it keeps his beverages frozen. The electronic gifts, as well as the Yamaha motors mounted on their boats, were compliments of the Venezuelan government. One hut had a communal automatic washing machine and electric stove. „Continued on next page Warao families visiting El Shaddai in paddled or motorized dugout canoes

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MARCH 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 25RAIMUND DOEPEL REAL SAILORS BUY STREETS GUIDESReal sailors use Streets Guides for inter-island and harbor piloting directions, plus interesting anecdotes of people, places and history. Streets Guides are the only ones that describe ALL the anchorages in the Eastern Caribbean. Real sailors also buy the other guides, that have pretty pictures and describe hotels, bars, restaurants and anchorages that are popular with bareboaters. Real sailors circle in Streets Guide the anchorages that are not described in the other guides. This enables them to find quiet anchorages far from The Madding CrowdŽ.Streets Guides are available at bookshops and chandleries, or from www.iUniverse.com and www.seabooks.com STREETS GUIDES ARE MORE ECONOMICAL!Written by an author with 50 years of sailing experience in the Caribbean, the series four volumes cover the Eastern Caribbean from Puerto Rico down through the islands and the coast of Venezuela to the ABCs. „Continued from previous page Next to each hut was a big blue rain-catchment barrel with large letters on the side saying ChavezŽ. (At one village we noticed some children in the river balanced on the lids of these rain barrels, using them in place of canoes. The circular shape created some navigating challenges.) Near the center of the village was a hut dedicated as a school. However, the desks were all pushed to one side and we learned a teacher had not been available in a number of months. Melinda, from Sea Schell , noticed that a blackboard on the school wall had the alphabet printed on it. A large group of curious children had gathered around. Melinda pointed to the letters and the children responded by reciting the alphabet in Spanish. Suddenly the abandoned school hut became a functioning school. This attracted more adults and children and the school hut filled up. Many children laughed with excitement as they called out the letters of the alphabet and the community immediately became more relaxed with our presence. We discovered the Warao are just beginning to learn Spanish. We left this village with mixed emotions. The gifts of the government are an extreme step forward in modernizing the villagers thinking; however, the villagers were being thrust from a culture of surviving on the natural gifts of the forest and river, to a culture requiring Bolivars to purchase fuel for their generators and outboard motors. Then, there is the deeper issue of social change as the people are exposed to television which will undoubtedly bring dissatisfaction with their existence. We had experienced a similar invasion of technology in a land-dependent society in the past where, in northern Canada, native Indians were given similar benefitsŽ and are now reported to have rampant drug and alcohol problems. We felt an incredible sense of wrongdoing and destruction, as the elements to support modern technology do not exist here. We had also noticed in the village that some of the men were apparently quite inebriated at midday when traditionally they would have been out hunting and fishing for their families. We pulled anchor and headed upriver seeking our next planned anchorage a short distance away where the cruising notes indicated howler monkeys and toucans had been seen. Next month: Surprising finds farther up the river.

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MARCH 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 26 Chain & Rope Anchors & Fenders Electric Wire Marine Hoses Bilge Pumps Lubricants & Oils Stainless Fasteners Stainless Fittings VHF Radios Flares & Life Jackets Snorkeling Equipment Fishing Gear Antifouling Paint Paint Brushes Epoxy Resins Sanding Paper & Discs Hand & Power Tools Houseware & CookwareFOR YOUR MARINE HARDWARE, AND MORE Johnson Hardware Ltd. Rodney Bay, St. Lucia Tel: ( 758 ) 452 0299 Fax: ( 758 ) 452 0311 e-mail: hardware@candw.lc It is sunrise on Carnival Monday, February 4th, 2008, and we have been chipping with our band, Nautica, for two hours. Chipping is the street dance that Trinis do to music. A good chipper will always have one foot on the ground and the other foot barely above the ground; forward motion is surprisingly fast. Chipping is hard on the soles of your shoes, especially around the ball of your foot. I chip over to the beverage truck and one of the guys holds up a beer. I mouth waterŽ. I just cant face a beer at 6:20AM. Jouvert is the official opening of Carnival. The past three weeks of partying was just the warm-up and competitions „ really a three-week party. The band Nautica has a nautical theme and the overall Jouvert theme is ShipwreckedŽ. What a poor name for a bunch of yachties! I am wearing a very tight orange tank top, skimpy shorts with a gauzy orange wrap and an orange headband. My husband, Hunter, is wearing an orange T-shirt and shorts. The mens outfits are very baggy and the womens are three sizes too small „ obviously designed by a man. We are both wearing about a cupful of paint on the exposed parts of our bodies. This is dirty masŽ and paint, mud and oil are part of the scene. Chipping is broken up by wining and jumping up. Wining is short for winding your waistŽ and is performed by gyrating your hips in three dimensions. Wining can be done alone, but most often ends up with two people wining against each other. This is not something the North American pelvis is accustomed to doing, nor is this something you would ever see on North American streets. I can kind of get the wine, but cannot get it in a forward direction. I join Hunter in chipping. We dodge the mud man, who is covered with mud from head to toe and has a pot of mud so he can share and decorate others. Paint and mud are fairly innocuous „ at least compared to the used motor oil. Oops „ too close to the sound truck. Think boom box on a semi truck. Yes, 18 wheels of sound and we try to keep a bit of distance to keep the sound comfortable. We are playingŽ Jouvert with about 500 others in our band. There are several other costumes with the Shipwrecked theme and all are skimpy. When we picked up our costumes we were a bit surprised to find five condoms in each of our bags. These were explained by newspaper articles as an effort to reduce the November birth rate. We chip our way to our rest stop, where we grab a bit of food and look for toilets. In the full light we examine our arms and legs „ plenty paint. Hmmƒ hand prints on certain topographical features on my chest. Hunters hands are the same color. The road is speckled and splattered with paint and mud, and shows the evidence of a giant street party. There is a paucity of trash cans and Hunter speculates that the standby used 50-gallon oil drum is not considered excess in a country whose national instrument is the steel pan. Our chipping sags as we return to our Mas camp where we are greeted by Jesse James (the logistical and transportation wizard). Jesse hands each of us a large trash bag with a hole in the bottom and instructs us to put the bag over our head, wear the bag with our arms inside and take a seat in the bus. Jesse has years of experience and we do not argue. We return to the sailing club (TTSA) where we are anchored and find notes asking us to kindly wash the paint off at the outside shower before entering the inside showers. By 10:00AMwe are back aboard our boat and ready for a nap. Trinis are proud to host one of the best Carnivals in the world. The preparations for Carnival for the upcoming year start just after the current Carnival is put to bed. The festivities for the next years Carnival start moments after the Christmas wrapping paper is put in the trash. The word carnival is derived from carne valeŽ or farewell to flesh, and the actual Carnival occurs the Monday and Tuesday before Lent. The month before Carnival is a frenzy of costume, music, Calypso, Soca, limbo, competitions and is every bit as much fun as the actual two days of Carnival. I need to tell you that neither Hunter nor I are big partiers; we do not like large crowds, loud music or staying out late, but we loved Carnival in Trinidad. We sailed back to Trinidad in early January to enjoy the competitions and festivities that culminate in the last few days of Carnival. Our first outing was to Mas Camps and pan yards. MasŽ is short for masquerade. Carnival bandsŽ are organized groups made up of participants who pay for costumes fashioned by a designer. The costumed participants dance through the streets to the sounds of a steel band or music from a truck with a DJ „ this is called playing masŽ. A unique feature of this parade is that locals and tourists alike participate in the parade of bands. „Continued on next page Chipping Down the Road in Trinidads Carnival by Devi Sharp Dancin in the street! On Carnival Tuesday bands parade through the streets of Port of Spain, competing for the title of Band of the Year. The masqueraders „ mostly women in colorful beads, sequined bikinis and feathers „ attract thousands of spectators. Sound trucks accompany the bandsSTEVE MANLEY

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MARCH 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 27 DOCK, BAR&RESTAURANTOpen 7/7 VHF: 16/68€ deep water stern-to berth € water/ice/laundry € tel+fax+internet € gas stationCUSTOMS CLEARANCETel: (+) 596 596 66 05 45gas station: (+) 596 596 66 17 30e-mail: leponton@wanadoo.fr1433N 6103WPOINTE DU BOUT, MARTINIQUE THE SPECIALIST FOR BOAT MAINTENANCE IN MARTINIQUE Centre de Carenage 97290 Le MarinTel: +596 (0) 596 74 74 80 Fax: +596 (0) 596 74 79 16 carene.shop@wanadoo.fr Zinc Anodes Plumbing Marine Paints Batteries Epoxy Antifouling Le Marin „Continued from previous page The Parade of the Bands takes place on Carnival Tuesday. The streets are closed off and the bands march through the streets of Port of Spain before the judging stands and past thousands of people. The bands are vying for the prestigious Band of the Year title. There are lots of bikinis and beadsŽ as the Trinis say, but there are a few bands with a serious message. The winning band for this year, Earth Cries of Despair and Wings of HopeŽ, featured the worlds ecological disasters, such as oil spills, and used the childrens band to highlight the hope of the future. Listening to pan music on a CD or radio cannot compare to watching a pan band play live for Carnival. The band is alive. The music is full and the group leader is directing the band and is one with the music. At times the leader looks like an aerobics instructor. One of the joys of pan music is just watching the musicians. They are animated and move with the sound, they are also very diverse. You see men, women, boys and girls. At the Panorama, the most prestigious steelband competition in Trinidad (and the world?), the youngest player was a nine-year-old girl. She played flawlessly. The players smile a lot and clearly love playing. We brought binoculars to the events so we could watch the players up close. Watching the audience is also great fun. There is a lot of what I call seat dancingŽ; heads are bobbing, chairs are rocking and arms are waving. We just could not get enough of the live pan band music and attended the Panorama Semi-Finals as well as the Panorama finals. The steel pan is the national instrument of Trinidad & Tobago and Trinis claim that it is the only new instrument invented in the 20th century. Drums and a variety of percussion instruments have been around for a long time, but it was only after World War II when oil drums littered the ports of Trinidad that they were cut down and pounded into shapes that produce distinct tones. Pan music is such an important part of Trini culture that children learn to play the pans in grade school. Small bands and pan yards can be found in every neighborhood. We went to 11 Carnival events and it is hard to pick a favorite, but I think I will always remember the Red Cross Kiddie Carnival. This is a costume competition fund-raiser for the Red Cross and the opportunity too for kids to start their carnival career. The contestants under the age of three, called Babes in ArmsŽ, were very cute but clearly did not get why they were being tortured by hot suits, bright sun and a crowd. Some of the next group, threeto five-year-olds, got it and were having a great time dancing to the music and showing off for the judges and photographers. The older kids were clearly having a grand time and enjoyed being on stage, in costume and dancing. Dont be thinking Halloween costume „ none of us ever trick-or-treated in costumes this elaborate or grand. These are not bed sheets and fluffy boas. Each costume had a name and often they depicted characters of Trini mythology and history: creatures of the sea and other animals were popular themes, as were the different cultures and roots of the people of Trinidad. Dimanche Gras on Sunday featured the climax of the competitions, as the Kings and Queens of the various bands vied for the title of King and Queen of Carnival 2008, and the Calypso artists competed for the title of Calypso Monarch 2008. We had seen the preliminaries and felt it was time well spent to see the full field of competition. In the finals, several of the costumes had added pyrotechnics and lights. The costumes of the Kings and Queens are larger-thanlife displays of colors, sequins, feathers, foil and glitter. Most of the costumes had an added infrastructure of two or three wheels to help the wearer move about. Several of the events were held at the Queens Park Savannah, which has a large stage and covered grandstand seating. There was food available and plenty of portable toilets and you could leave your seat and walk into the staging area. It was really fun to see the kids get ready for the stage for Kiddie Carnival and to listen to the pan bands warm up. I found this to be a very comfortable venue. The price of the tickets varied from as little as US$15 (per person) including transportation, to as much as US$40. The street parades during the daytime could be as little as the cost of a maxi taxi. We chose to get seats and transportation for the Parade of the Bands on Carnival Tuesday and the cost was US$15. Next year, Carnival will be February 23rd through 24th. The marinas have special Carnival rates and they do book to capacity, so it is advisable to do your research and book early. We stayed at the Trinidad and Tobago Sailing Association (TTSA) at anchor and easily found a place to drop our hook. The Carnival events start about three weeks before the actual Carnival date. You can find a calendar and list of events on a variety of websites that will come up in a simple internet search. During the time leading up to Carnival, the local newspapers are a great source of information for upcoming events. Transportation to evening events is a challenge because we were advised against taking public transportation at night. Going with a group in a hire van is far more economical than hiring a car and driver for the evening. There are at least two services in the Chaguaramas area, Members Only Maxi Taxi and Trump Tours, who help cruisers with Carnival logistics. If you listen to the VHF net on channel 68 at 8:00AMyou will hear news about Carnival events. We went to several of the daytime events by maxi taxi (public transportation) and used Jesses service for the evening events. Jesse James owns Members Only Maxi Taxi service and spent quite a bit of time helping us decide which events to attend. Jesse will buy the tickets for the events in advance and tries to get groups to events early to claim good seats. He also goes to great lengths to ensure the safety of his clients. I never felt unsafe or uncomfortable. Trinis were always friendly and eager to answer our questions and clearly delighted that we were enjoying their Carnival. We tried not to carry much cash, but always had some money for bake and shark, corn soup, snow cones or whatever great street food we could find. Devi and her husband Hunter are currently exploring the Caribbean in their sailboat Arctic Tern. Above: The costume of the Queen is larger than life, with wheels to help the wearer move about on stage Right: Moko Jumbies are traditional folk characters that dance on stilts

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Many cruisers bypass Barbados because one must head into the wind when sailing there from the Caribbean. However, we picked a weather window with low winds and small seas, and made the trip in a relatively easy overnight passage from Bequia. We were very happy we did. Check-in at the Customs and Immigration dock in Bridgetown was simple and straightforward. The anchorage in Carlisle Bay was good holding in sand, a little rolly but we put out a swell bridle. We were able to tie up the dinghy in the inner harbor next to Independence Square, convenient to the center of Bridgetown. One of our first impressions of Barbados was how clean it is. The water is cellophane-clear and we rarely saw a piece of litter. Even the public bathrooms were wonderfully maintained. Another impression was of the lack of racial or ethnic tension. People were very friendly, helpful with information or problems, and ready to include us whenever we felt disposed to join in. The best word I can think of to describe this phenomenon is peaceableŽ. Getting around the island is easy. Car rental companies are numerous, their prices are reasonable, and they will deliver the car to your choice of location. While this is usually a hotel, since we were on our boat, we made arrangements to pick up at a dive shop. If you would rather not brave the roads on your own, several tour outfits provide trips to a variety of sightseeing spots. Taxis are plentiful and will also negotiate to take you around the island, usually at a by-the-hour rate. But best of all is the bus system. The equivalent of 75 US cents (Bds$1.50) takes you to the farthest reaches of the island. We asked at the bus depot in Bridgetown about a bus just to go sightseeing and it was suggested that we take the bus to Bathsheba, a popular seaside resort and surfing area on the Atlantic coast. And on Sundays, there is a scenic bus tour. For only US$7.50 per person, we were treated to five hours of sightseeing. The bus picked us up at Independence Square at 2:00PM. We were surprised and delighted that our fellow passengers were all locals; we were the only outsiders. Everyone, families and old people, was in a festive mood; most had brought snacks and picnic lunches; there was lots of chatter and laughter. When we showed a willingness to join in, we were readily included, and people were delighted that we liked Barbados. The first stop was a beautiful, windswept area of the eastern coast, at Barclay Park. Then we proceeded to Cherry Tree Hill, passing through fields of sugarcane and seeing old mills, including one still-working windmill at Morgan Lewis Mill. Cherry Tree Hill seems to have no cherries, even though vendors were selling cherries at Barclay Park. Instead there is a large stand of huge old mahogany trees surrounding St. Nicholas Abbey, a planters house built in the mid-17th century. Then we passed through more sugarcane, some cotton and other agriculture, past fields of cows and black-bellied sheep (claimed to be the best lamb in the world), to Little Bay. Little Bay has a rugged coastline with fabulous blowholes. They spouted and fumed high into the air, sending salt spray back at us on the wind. „Continued on next page MARCH 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 28 True Blue Bay Marina Resort & Villas Dock, moor or set anchor at True Blue Bay located in the south coast of Grenada and enjoy our full service marina and fabulous accommodation. Caribbean cocktails and delicious dishes are a must at our waterside Dodgy Dock Lounge Bar and True Blue Restaurant. Located five minutes walk from Spice Island Marine Services and five minutes drive from the airport. Aquanauts Dive Center Indigo Car Rentals & Horizon Yacht ChartersVHF Channel 16 473 443 8783 mail@truebluebay.com www.truebluebay.com Barbados: It's Worth It!by Jacquelyn Milman Parliament is a landmark in Bridgetown

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MARCH 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 29 „Continued from previous page Our last destination for the tour was River Bay. This cozy spot is a popular park where dozens of Bajans (pronounced Bay-juns,Ž the nickname Barbadians call themselves) were gathered. There were picnic tables and drink vendors, and a music system set up in one of the clearings. It was clearly a popular place for a Sunday outing. On the return trip, one loudly chatty, bossy lady in the back of the bus revealed that she goes on these trips every Sunday, but had missed last week to celebrate her 67th birthday with family. With that information disclosed, the others on the bus sang Happy BirthdayŽ. Then the driver put on the speaker system a variety of birthday songs to which everyone sang along. A collection was taken up for the driver, who told us he researches the areas of the tour so he can provide history and information about each locale. It was dark by the time we arrived back in Bridgetown and the whole of downtown was decorated in blue and gold lights in observance of Barbadoss independence in 1966. The celebration continues throughout the month of November. We so enjoyed this trip that we took the one the following Sunday as well. It went to Foul Bay, passing through a lively tourist area called St. Lawrence Gap, full of beach parks, hotels, restaurants, and shops. Foul Bay has another beautiful beach with wind and surf. Then we went to Three Houses Park, so named for the original three houses that were the only ones there at one time. On the way we passed such points of interest as a lighthouse, the Silver Sands Resort, and the Concorde Museum next to the airport, which houses the Concorde in which Queen Elizabeth II came to Barbados. We then made a short stop at Codrington College, a non-boarding school for the Anglican priesthood. The building was completed in 1743. Our final destination was to be Bath, but our driver, Ronald Marshall, said there was construction there so we would deviate to Bathsheba instead. Wed already been there, but today there was a surfing competition so there were lots of people, temporary vendor stands, music, etcetera „ a very festive event. We walked around, stopped for a beer, then wandered back to the bus at departure time. We did walking tours in Bridgetown as well. The Parliament building is prominent. Across what is referred to as the inner harbor is Independence Square, once a parking lot, now a beautiful park. We visited the Nihde Israel Synagogue, founded in 1654, the earliest constructed temple in the western hemisphere. An interesting place was the Pelican Art Centre, where local artists have shops. Some, such as a ceramicist and a woodworker, provide demonstrations. The University of the West Indies has a branch on Barbados and we took a stroll through the pretty campus. Cricket is a major sport on Barbados and one can major in Cricket Management as a career choice. There are several points of interest around the island. One which we had wanted to see was Harrisons Cave, where you can take a tram ride through the cave. Wed been told it is a not-to-miss destination but, alas, it was closed for renovations. We did go to the Barbados Wildlife Reserve, another place well worth the time. You can walk through the Reserve and observe the wildlife in their natural habitat. There were many animals: the Barbados red-footed tortoise, deer, mara (a rodent that looks like a large rabbit), a variety of birds, caiman, snakes, iguanas, and the green monkey, brought to Barbados from Africa many years ago. The monkeys were our favorite, jumping from tree to tree, scampering through the reserve, performing antics to delight the visitor. Just opposite the Reserve is Grenade Hall Signal Station and Forest. Grenade Hall was one of five signal stations that, perched atop various hills, could see each other and flew flags to signal the comings and goings of ships. The Forest had informative signs identifying various plants, their history and usefulness. There are many more places we could have seen and things we could have done, but one would have to remain for several weeks and we needed to be on our way. But would we go back? In a heartbeat. Above:: The Inner Harbour, with a new park on the far side, is part of a river bisecting the historic capital Below: You can often see wild green monkeys in the countryside

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MARCH 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 30 Two dozen visitors, both transplantsŽ and locals, meet at the St. Croix East End Marine Parks new headquarters in Estate Great Pond plantation. The Danish colonial ruins have been cleaned up, patched up and reconfigured to house the Park administration in the old distillery building near the stable ruins. An onshore breeze cools those waiting under a large tamarind tree, one of four defining corners of a pre-Columbian site dating to 300AD. Park ranger John Farchette III, a third-generation Crucian of Italian and Viequense descent, will lead todays tour to Robin Bay on St. Croixs south shore, one of several tours the Park conducts each month to places few tourists visit. Farchette begins with some background on the Park, a part of the Virgin Islands Department of Planning & Natural Resources, Division of Coast Zone Management. The Parks mission is to protect the islands natural resources, from the high-tide line out three miles. While the Park has no terrestrial assets, much of the land above the high-tide line is owned by either the Virgin Islands or US federal government, or by environmental conservation organizations. Several distinct ecosystems can be found within the Park, including Beach, Mangrove, Salt Pond, Sea Grass and Coral Reef. Tours, visitor centers, summer camps, childrens programs and snorkel clinics are part of the new outreach effort to increase awareness of the environment and the importance of its preservation. The Park website is: www.stxeastendmarinepark.org. Established in 2003, the park covers 60 square miles along the shore of St. Croixs east end, about 17 miles. Legislation was signed in October, 2007, creating rules to be enforced once signage is complete. Four management zones are marked on maps, which are also available on-line: € Recreation areas (2.8%) are designated for snorkeling, diving, catch-and-release fishing, cast net bait fishing, and boating. Recreational line fishing from shore is permitted within 100 feet of the shoreline. € Turtle wildlife area (7.0%). Three species of sea turtles, Hawksbill, Leatherback and Green, are federally protected and may not be interfered with in any way. Beach use is permitted excluding vehicles, horses, or fires. Gill and trammel nets are prohibited. € No-take areas (8.6%) are established to protect spawning, nursery and residence habitat for various species. Swimming, diving and boating are allowed, but not commercial and recreational fishing. € Open areas (81.6%) Existing territorial restrictions apply. The only additional restriction prohibits the removal of coral or live rock. A short distance east of Park Headquarters, few signs of human enterprise interrupt the vista. Their cars parked along Southshore Road, hikers walk toward Robin Bays beach, pausing at a freshwater pond lined with black and white mangroves. Farchette explains the important functions the mangroves and pond perform: producing oxygen, absorbing and filtering nutrients and sediment the reef cant tolerate, providing fresh water on saline ground for birds and animals, and protection for nesting birds and hatchlings. At mid-morning, the pond is peaceful and quiet, though deer and wading birds have left tracks in the salty, sandy mud. „Continued on next page ALL ASHOREƒ St. Croix East End Marine Park: ROBIN BAY by Ellen Sanpere Above: Robin Bay is currently all natural, but 620 acres on the shore are due for development. Access to the Marine Park will be maintained Left: Ranger John Farchette III explains the functions of the Marine Park

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MARCH 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 31 „Continued from previous page Looking south from the shore, the next landfall is Venezuela. In fact, Farchette says, potsherds have been found on St. Croix that are of every pottery style found in Venezuela, indicating Paleo-Indian habitation. Inland wells provided fresh water to early populations; settlements have been found at every watergut on St. Croix. He pauses at one and picks up a piece of pottery. This one was missed in the archeological survey,Ž he says, and he keeps it hidden for demonstrations. It is made of reddish brown clay, with an indication of white paint and a burned edge. He suggests it was part of a ground clay vessel made by the Saladoid (pre-ceramic Orinoco Basin seafaring people) in the first century BC, and used to carry cassava fiber. He then explains how raw cassava must be treated and cooked to remove toxins. There are at least sixty pre-Columbian sites known on St. Croix, some pre-ceramic, and carbon-dated to 3240BC. Taino, Arawak and Carib were only the last Amerindian groups to live here. Farchette tells the tale of an Indian woman who shot one of Columbuss men using an arrow coated with toxic manchineel tree sap when they were discoveredŽ exploring Salt River in 1493. Had there been more like her, he says, wed be speaking Taino today. He identifies as a midden or trash dump an earthen area in the trees littered with deeply imbedded shells and pottery. Much of the pottery is made from caliche, a white salt-water clay used by later groups. Moving past a line of dried Thalassia grass on the powdery white beach, Farchette picks up a handful of Halimeda, a green macro algae that synthesizes calcium carbonate. Paige Rothenberger, the Parks Marine Resource Ecologist, explains that it turns white and granular after releasing its reproductive spores. Now brittle, it washes onto the beach where it is crushed into the sandy powder that makes Crucian beaches so soft and beautiful. Pointing to the sun drenched surf zone, Farchette indicates what looks like a manmade concrete ledge under the breaking waves. It isnt man-made, it isnt rock or coral, he says, but an outcrop of sandstone. Often found under a beach bordering a landlocked freshwater pond, sandstone is produced from sediment accumulating on the pond bottom subjected to pressure from the weight of the water, then pushed out under the boundaries. Down the beach, two local men cast a net and fill a bucket with bait fish, used to catch snapper and barracuda. Farchette identifies the three-inch silvery fish as yellow-billed sprat, favorite food for the snapper that come to shore in the evening to lay eggs before predators arrive. Birds also eat sprat, which breed in the shallows. When a pond or lagoon closes, due to nature or man, breeding areas vanish. Under such pressure, some fish species succumb to high mortality rates and even infanticide. The entire food chain is thereby diminished. After several years of resource management at Pelican Rock, the decimated sprat population has started to return. Once, conch and lobster roamed the beaches, says Farchette, but in the 1930s, when snorkels were developed, fishermen wiped out the near-shore population. Later, underwater breathing apparatus allowed the fishermen to go further and deeper to find their prey. Costs went up, but so did prices, and the conch and lobster population suffered depletion at deeper depths. Like many of the Park resources, this one needs to be managed before the fishermans livelihood disappears completely. Monitoring fisheries, lobsters and coral reefs is an essential ongoing project. A baseline survey is in process, as is a socioeconomic study of the local fishing industry. Farchette picks up a large almond, though no almond trees are in sight. He says fruit bats will transport the nuts from trees growing inland and drop them as they fly over the beach. Several bat species live in the area and eat fish, mosquitoes or fruit. At the base of a spreading seagrape tree, there is a shallow depression in the sand: a turtle nest that must not be disturbed. Green, leatherback and hawksbill turtles nest on the beaches of St. Croix, though each species has different preferences for distance from the high tide line. Survival rates are very low for sea turtles in the natural world, and increasing human population has reduced the acreage for nesting sites. Turtle eggs are subject to predation by dogs, mongoose, birds and crabs. Once hatched, the baby turtles must walk to the sea under those predators hungry scrutiny, and there is no rest there either, as big fish and octopus also find the tasty babies easy prey. Farchette relates that a crab will poke the eyes out of several hatchlings, so they will walk around in circles until the crab can finish them off. Theres no stopping the turtles natural enemies, but by protecting them from negative human impact, at least a few more will survive to maturity. Vehicles, horses and fires are prohibited on the beach, to minimize habitat disturbances and turtle nest destruction. Today, Robin Bay is large and undeveloped. The beach is nearly pristine and offers nesting areas for sea turtles and 17 seabird species, including the endangered least tern. Approximately 400 species of fish rely on the waters within the park for food, shelter and breeding grounds. There is a strong current in the bay, but the snorkeling is good, and one can observe sea horses, among other creatures, inside the reef in the east channel. The 620 acres of land at Robin Bay were sold recently for development of a resort, casino and golf course. The Virgin Islands Coastal Zone Management unit is charged with monitoring it closely to prevent environmental damage during and after construction. Access to the Marine Park will be maintained for public use. Many yachties are environmentally aware „ they live close to the ocean and see firsthand what happens when its ecosystems are not protected. Few, however, get to see St. Croixs south shore except from a great distance. It is protected by the largest island barrier reef system in the Caribbean, there are no anchorages east of the Krause Lagoon industrial area, and the cruising guides ignore the beautiful bays of the East Ends south shore. Day moorings are being considered for some areas on the south shore, though entering the reef in a cruising yacht is not recommended. The East Ends north shore is far more boater-friendly, offering Teague Bay and the St. Croix Yacht Club, Green Cay Marina, and several small bays for settled weather. Buck Island Reef National Monument, another preserve of endangered marine life, is one-and-a-half nautical miles north of St. Croix. Visiting the East End Marine Park on foot, and diving or snorkeling where appropriate, is a great way to experience the beauty, earliest history and biodiversity of this special area. Transportation to the Marine Park can be arranged easily. Listening to Ranger John Farchette speak of the Parks many wonders is to meet a passionate Crucian who gladly shares an encyclopedic knowledge of his island. Tours of other areas within the East End Marine Park include Rod Bay, Great Salt Pond, Coakley Bay, the Nature Conservancys Jack and Isaac Bays (www.nature.org), and the St. Croix Environmental Associations Southgate Coastal Reserve (www.stxenvironmental.org) at Chenay Bay. For information, call (340)773-3367. See www.stxeastendmarinePark.org for maps of park zones, restrictions and habitat areas, and for an events calendar, programs, local action strategies, and more. Above: Ruins of the former stables at Estate Great Pond. Park headquarters is nearby Left: Local fishermen catching sprat with a cast net. Fishing for bait is allowed in the parks recreation areas

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MARCH 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 32 NEW A T XANADU MARINE: AMER ON ABC 3 TIN FREE ANTIFOULING P AINT Marlin Bottom Paint * Delco * Underwater Metal Kit * Z-Spar * Cetol * Mercury Seachoice * Marpac * Teleflex * Tempo * Ritchie * Breeze * Whale * Ancor Racor * Wix * Shurflo* Johnson Pumps * 3-M * Flags * Perko * Jabsco * Groco Boatlife * Starbrite * Camp Zincs * Marine Padlocks * Orion * Sunbrella Weblon * Clear Vinyl * Canvaswork Supplies * Marinco * Garmin * Uniden Apelco * Harken * Sta-lok * 316 SS Rigging * Cordage * West System * ShieldsDinghy Accessories * Waterproofing * Aqua Signal * Imray lolaire ChartsCORNER OF MIRANDA & GUARAGUAO, PUERTO LA CRUZ,VENEZUELATELEPHONE:(58) (281) 265-3844 FAX:(58) (281) 265-2448E-mail:xanadumarine@cantv.net Standby VHF Channel 72DISCOUNTS ON ARTIGIANA BATTELLIAND CARIBE DINGHYSTHE CRUISING SAILORS CHANDLERY SINCE 1990€ PERSONALIZED ATTENTION BY OUR EXPERIENCED STAFF € REPLACEMENT PARTS & MAINTENANCE PRODUCTS No hurricanes 270sq. miles of calm seas Full amenities Phone: (58-281) 267-7412 Fax: (58-281) 2677-810 VHF Channel 71 Web page: http://bahiaredonda.com.ve E-Mail: brmi@cantv.net marina internacionalEl Morro Tourist Complex Puerto La Cruz VenezuelaLat. 10° 12 ' 24"N Long. 64° 40 ' 5"W Notes from a Carriacou Sloopby John SmithNeeding some slow-lane life, and some lobster, Mermaid got underway from Juangriego, Isla Margarita, bound for Tortuga and then back to Los Roques. Left Juangriego on Thanksgiving Day, figured that as there was hardly any chance for turkey or pumpkin pie I might as well be giving thanks by going out to sea. And with beer at US$3.50 a case here, carried a few of those as well. After almost 31 years aboard the Carriacou-built Mermaid , I have got the majority of bugs either in some semblance of order or I have become myopic enough to overlook them. Need a next mainsail; will get a quote from Manfred Dittrich on Hassel Island, St. Thomas, if he is still in the gaff main industry. In the meantime I am not too particular about the color of my patchwork „ my rig like a pair of patched denim jeans „ but it will work a while longer if I stay off of the race track and out of storms way. Sitting here on Cayo Herradura on December 3rd, 2007, with absolutely no wind, bit of a ground sea from the northwest, fishermen on the beach, and plenty of mosquitoes and flies that have flown from shore and made Mermaid their home for the duration. Not many other cruisers here, at a max there have been five boats at a time, mostly French and Germans, but on weekends there are twice as many local powerboats from nearby Carenero. Time passes slowly and smoothly here. Plenty of fish, catching as much as my crew and I can eat daily. This is the only place where I eat any lobster „ amazing what a six-pack of beer will get you, far from the beaten track! No particular plans, and happy with that. Diving the bottom daily and trying to clear off the crop of barnacles and other marine organisms that have thrived so well in the silty waters off of Margarita. It might have been swell as a source of pearls and other shellfish, but prior to the intro of copper-based antifouling, it was undoubtedly difficult for crews who had to contend with the migration of marine organisms to their ships bottoms to make any way to windward. Fortunately, while sailing downwind, the effects are not so restrictive, hence the necessity for the fleets of yore to pass through the Yucatan Channel in order to get back to Europe. I hope I do not have to emulate their efforts, and also hope I will not need another haul-out very soon: my mainsail is approaching its 20th anniversary aboard and actually is more important right now than new bottom paint, as long as I stay away from dirty water harbors. I was at one point very close to buying the Bequia-built schooner At Last . It went on the market a few months ago for US$2,500 after having been sold five years ago for US$25,000! It apparently fell into the hands of a young fellow whose habits did not include boat maintenance. My brother Bruce (of the yacht Woodwind , winner at Foxys 2007) who helped finish building At Last , under the tree at the corner near the Bequia Slip sometime in the mid-1980s, told me the hull was sound, though the masts and rigging were pretty beat. I did honestly consider it for a while ( Mermaid not getting any smaller after 31 years, and „ approaching my 61st birthday „ not a lot easier), but after more than three decades aboard I have most of the kinks worked out. I never steer, and although I do a bit of pumping it is really not so much when I consider how much water surrounds the hull. Seems that the new crowd have decided that if a boat leaks at all it should be traded in „ kinda like when the ashtray is full on a new car. Bruce has become very epoxy-oriented, having given away his caulking irons over 20 years ago. (Check out his web page, brucesmithsvoyage.com, if only for the art, but it also contains a pretty interesting blog kept up by my sister-in-law Janet.) It would be very difficult for some to detect any of the improvements Bernard Compton and Alwyn Enoe and Zephrin McLaren and I have done on Mermaid : half of the bottom replaced, starboard side with mostly dark brown Guyanese silver bali and port side with red Venezuelan Saqui-Saqui. „Continued on next page Mermaid was built at Windward, Carriacou, by Zephrin McLaren in 1964 for Carriacou Regatta founder J. Lynton Rigg. For many years the 44-foot sloop was unbeatableRAIMUND DOEPEL

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MARCH 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 33 YACHT SHIPPING LTDTel: +44 (0)23 8022 3671 Fax: +44 (0)23 8033 0880/1UK Agents forSEVENSTAR YACHT TRANSPORT B.V.E-mail: info@ysl.wainwrightgroup.com www.yachtshipping.comRegular sailings to and from the Mediterranean, USA and Caribbean Specialist water to water service Grenada „Continued from previous page The garboards I replaced in Florida in 1984 with two-and-one-half-inch yellow cypress. The mast was replaced in 2001 and the old Douglas fir mast became a new boom. The gaff was built under the guidance of Peter Spronk in Sint Maarten of aircraft-quality plywood and epoxy, making for a very stiff and light hollow spar. I am now on my third bowsprit, which, like the mast, is of Norwegian pine. Dozens of new frames and knees mostly of Carriacou iron mangrove, while aft I used grown Jamaican lignum vitae (Guaiicum officional) for the lodging knees, and many, many meters of stainless threaded rod throughout. Many of these things are hard to see unless you get aboard and have a crawl through the bilges. Sure I made some mistakes, but I learned a lot and have replaced all of my serious screw-ups. I think Zeph, her builder, would still be proud of the old girl, and just because I prefer not to race with the Antigua Classic or St. Maarten Heineken Regatta crowd is no reason to condemn this fine old ship. I am trying to fit a few hours every day towards the writing of some letters and articles that I think Compass readers might enjoy: namely the life and times of an engineless cargo sloops captain trying to make a living in the closing years of the 20th century. Its all true, and might prove to be interesting reading. After all, it was all about going sailing and just carrying on. I have carried charcoal, salt, timber, paint, coils of line, fruit, grafted mango and avocado trees, thousands of small palm trees, honey, pollen, wax, salt fish „ you name it, I carried it. Never made much money, but it was legal and kept me sailing. I bet no one would believe that I used to sail into the dock in Gustavia, St. Barts, to unload sacks of charcoal and homemade pottery from Nevis (confessions of an old pot smuggler), or that when I sailed into Port Antonio, Jamaica, the first time I was carrying a few tons of ironmongery that I had picked up cheap from the completed dock project in Aruba and had no problem selling to the local hardware stores. I believe that Mermaid was one of the last vessels to load salt from the ponds of Sandy Ground, Anguilla. What a scene it was when I was boarded by a DEA team in Ponce, Puerto Rico. I mean, 2,000 pounds of white crystals in crocus sacks? Those folks did not have much sense of humour, especially after tasting a bit from each of the hundred-pound sacks. Not only did the salt help to preserve Mermaids wood, it had the added advantage of being able to dissolve. In those days Mermaid did leak a lot and if she had sunk with a load of salt, the hull would probably have popped back to the surface in a few days time! Mermaid never did have much of a fancy interior, but now that most of my ballast is in the form of a huge library, sinking would be a real disaster. Sending this out to you from aboard the Panda , which came in here a few days ago. Many thanks to Mike for the fresh water; in places like this I think that I would prefer a watermaker over an engine „ theres plenty of wind and sun for electrical power. In lieu, I guess I will just have to make do as the Aussies and drink beer, but beer sure makes toothpaste taste strange. It might be good for boiling shrimps but is not so good for making pasta. From here, I will drop back in to Higuerote to re-supply and then sail back out to Los Roques for a few months. My best to you all. Now in full-time cruising mode, friends help haul Mermaids anchor as she gets underway at Juangriego, Isla Margarita, bound for Tortuga and Los Roques Were on theWeb!Caribbean Compasswww.caribbeancompass.com Compass On-Line • Advertisers' Directory • Check It OutÉ Tell Your Friends! RAIMUND DOEPEL

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MARCH 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 34Crossing the channels between Caribbean islands with a favorable tide will make your passage faster and more comfortable. The table below, courtesy Don Street, author of Streets Guides and compiler of Imray-Iolaire charts, which shows the time of the meridian passage (or zenith) of the moon for this and next month, will help you calculate the tides. Water, Don explains, generally tries to run toward the moon. The tide starts running to the east soon after moonrise, continues to run east until about an hour after the moon reaches its zenith (see TIME below) and then runs westward. From just after the moons setting to just after its nadir, the tide runs eastward; and from just after its nadir to soon after its rising, the tide runs westward. Times given are local. Note: the maximum tide is 3 or 4 days after the new and full moons. For more information, see Tides and CurrentsŽ on the back of all Imray Iolaire charts. Fair tides! MERIDIAN PASSAGE OF THE MOONMARCH & APRIL 2008 March 2008 DATETIME 10656 20748 30841 40932 51022 61110 71158(new) 81246 91335 101426 111521 121620 131721 141823 151924 162021 172123 182202 192247 202330 210000(full) 220012 230054 240136 250221 260307 270356 280447 290539 300630 310721 April 2008 DATETIME 10811 20859 30946 41034 51122 (new) 61214 71309 81408 91511 101615 111717 121816 131910 142000 152045 162128 172210 182251 192333 200000(full) 210017 220103 230157 240241 250332 260423 270514 280602 290650 300736 Through the car crash, hospitalization, and a subsequent protracted legal adventure described in last months Compass , this former cruiser has accidentallyŽ made Trinidad my home. During the time since, Ive watched Trinidad. After eight years, Id say there is nowhere else in the Caribbean with such a booming economy. Yet it is still a charming island of friendly people who will help you in almost any way possible. You can get food, hardware, paint, upholstery, tools, and have repairs done on most things, like alternators and pumps „ especially reasonably if you travel beyond the yacht basin. Almost anything you need can be had at the various service stores. In 1999 I wasted a lot of time and quarters searching for a working pay phone to check for boat parts. But now, two companies vie for the cellular business, so you can get one inexpensively. (Get two prepaid phones and use them as walkie-talkies!) There are cell towers everywhere, so reception is good. Almost every Trini is now addicted to cell phones. Banking has progressed with convenient ATMs. Restaurants like the Kapok, Jennys, and CrewsInn have all remained great value with excellent ambiance. Oriental, Indian (roti), and barbecue are still the most available cuisines. Trinidads food is the freshest and healthiest of any Caribbean island, with plenty of veggie dishes. Upscale nightspots like 51 Degrees and Zen have replaced the worldly Pelican Club. Mas Camp Pub is now De Nu Place and still the place to see quality calypso performers at a reasonable cost. Unfortunately, the cost of a beer (Carib) has doubled. Quality live stage dramas and comedies are available. McDonalds has disappeared, but Subways are everywhere. Kentucky Fried has multiplied. Pizza Boys, Joes and Marios offer adequate pizza with Stateside newcomers Domino and Papa John. What is new is coffee. When I first arrived, Nestles Nescafe was the only game in town, but tasty. Then, Nestles had the finely powdered rocket-fuel caffeine, since evolved to larger particles. Ritual Coffee shops are everywhere. Relaxing in an air-conditioned shop reading the many Trini daily newspapers while sipping a Café Americano is as good as it gets at ten degrees north. Malls like West and Long Circular have become extravagant. In 2000, I could get a box lunch with a Coke for TT$8 at West Mall. Youd be lucky to get the box for that now. The HiLo grocery stores in Cocorite and West Mall are expansive with excellent selections. For unique food items check out Peppercorns in the mall. Movietown is another extravagant area where movie fare is as the States. A great bargain still exists at the Globe Theaters. On Tuesdays, usually two first-run movies with Dolby sound only cost TT$5 a person! When we are on island, we do the noon show every Tuesday. Popcorn and drinks are very inexpensive. Trinidad has the best radio of any island I know. Great vintage calypso and steel drum music can be heard on 94.7. Your TV antenna should pick up five TV stations. Channel Six has an uninterrupted late movie every night. It is also on the radio at 87.8 FM. „Continued on next page Bad Luck in a Great PlacePart Two: TRINIDAD TODAYby Ralph TroutThe yachting hub of Chaguaramas is the place to get things done. Although boatyard and marina fees have increased over the years, prices are still a fraction of those in Florida

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MARCH 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 35 Full Service Marina Facility VIRGINGORDAYACHTHARBOUROur facility located in the heart of beautiful Virgin Gorda comprises a 111-slip marina and a boatyard with 12 acres of dry storage space offering insurance approved hurricane pits to secure your vessel during hurricane season. Onsite amenities and services include a bank/ATM, a supermarket, chandlery, restaurant, bakery, clothing store, dive shop, phone and fax facilities, free wireless internet access, fuel, water and ice, laundry facilities, and an office of the BVI Tourist Board all in a pristine and relaxing environment. BVI Customs and immigration located within convenient walking distance. Tel: 284 495-5500 284 495-5318 Fax: 284 495-5706 284 495-5685 Web: www.vgmarina.biz VHF Ch: 16LEAVE YOUR BOAT IN OUR CARE THIS SUMMER „Continued from previous page Boatyards and Marinas Inflation is rampant in Trinidad, but the cost of labor is still reasonable and the yacht-service workforce is now better trained. Boatyard and marina fees have increased dramatically in eight years, including increases for air-conditioning and dehumidifier units. The biggest change is chocking fees, which used to be a one-time payment. IMS currently charges for the stands on a quarterly basis, Power Boats charges monthly, and Peakes has a daily fee. All offer free electricity and water as long as you dont live aboard. Despite the increases, a top-shelf marina at Chaguaramas, with all the amenities, charges about half what it would cost to dock in Florida. Today, all yards and marinas have better services and security. Check with each yard for specific regulations and costs before hauling. Boatyard personnel havent changed much. Chuck and Joann are still managing IMS and Don Stollmeyer is guiding Power Boats. The Lancers, with right-hand man Wayne, offer good value and friendly assistance at Tropical Marine. Carl is still on the docks at CrewsInn. Sails restaurant, at Power Boats, is the new sundowner hotspot, The Bight at Peakes remains excellent, and the pool tables at Tropical Marines Wheelhouse are busy. Hummingbird Marina is completely remodeled and a great place to get fresh seafood. Budget Marine and Dynamite Marine Services have expanded, to every sailors benefit. Marine Warehouse can still get what you need when you need it. Customs and Immigration are still friendly and efficient. TT Post, the postal service, is efficient and all services can be had at Coral Cove Marina. TT Post offers an insured quick serviceŽ that competes reasonably with Federal Express. Getting Around When you need a break from the boatyard, first purchase a good map at one of the bookstores. Like any big city or island, there are sections that are dangerous. Ask people where not to go, and believe them. Tuck in your gold chain and keep a grip on your bag. In 2000, there were areas to be avoided, and they have expanded, as has traffic congestion. Ive never felt racial tension in Trinidad, as I have on some other islands, but I dont feel totally safe here anymore. Im constantly wary of my surroundings and people. I wouldnt walk alone in the parks these days and definitely not walk home late at night, as I did years ago with a slinged arm. Today Id be easy pickings. (I blame it on Colombias weapon of mass destruction, cocaine.) But it is still safe enough to travel around and see the sights. Traveling by taxi or maxi is easy, perhaps the easiest and least expensive of anywhere in the Caribbean. Always make certain it is a legitimate vehicle for hire, noted by the identifying HŽ (hire) plate. PŽ (private) cars are people trying to earn extra cash. Scrutinize the driver and passengers and ask what the fare will be to your destination. From Chaguaramas there are two main drop-offs in the main city, Port of Spain: Green Corner and City Gate. Green Corner takes you to the heart of the capital where you can find good and inexpensive dentists, doctors, shopping, and cinemas. City Gate is the main transfer hub and from there you can get a maxi taxi to almost anywhere in Trinidad. If your driver takes chances with your life, have him stop, and get out. Another car for hire will be along in a few minutes. Taxi fares have only marginally increased. Rental cars have almost doubled in cost from TT$90 (US$14.50) a day to TT$175 (US$28) and upward. Gas is reasonable at TT$9 (US$1.50) a gallon. {We recently rented cars in St. Lucia and Grenada „ the gas cost more than the rental!} Driving in Trinidad has always been thrilling. In eight years the roads have widened by one lane, but the number of auto owners has almost doubled and Trinis are still litterbugs, knowing the roadsides are regularly cleaned. These are commonsense warnings while driving: Keep your jewelry to a minimum and your doors locked. Never even think of picking up a hitch-hiker. Locals know they will seldom see a police officer interested in their speed or maneuvers in traffic, so be cautious and sober on the roads. Buckle up, its common sense and the law. Timing is everything, especially in Trinidads traffic. Start your trips after 9:00AMand try to be away from Port of Spain during rush hour (from 4:00PMtill 6:30). The morning traffic is coming into the capital and the evenings is exiting. The road to Chaguaramas is packed in the evening, as there is only one road to the commuter suburb of Diego Martin and it is crammed with cars. Go to the beaches on weekdays and avoid the weekend crowds. Trinidad has two main expressways. The Churchill Roosevelt Highway runs east to west and the Uriah Butler Highway intersects and heads south. Every corner of the island has a unique personality. From Port of Spain westward to Chaguaramas is urban. Follow the east-west Churchill Roosevelt Highway to where it intersects with the Butler at a bulging mall, Grand Bazaar. This is an excellent place to provision at Extra Foods. The first exit on the southbound Butler expressway is for the Caroni Swamp, where flocks of Scarlet Ibis can be viewed every evening. Boat trips to see the birds are worth it. Farther south along the Butler, at the Medford exit is another Pricemart Plaza that is less pressure and price than Movietown. It has a Fridays and Ruby Tuesday restaurants. For those who still wonder Wheres the beef?Ž, there is also a Burger King. On the other side of the flyover (overpass) is the best deal for lunch in Trinidad, The Foodbasket. This is an excellent place to come to refill both galley and belly. Above the spacious, very reasonable grocery they have a delicious weekday buffet lunch for TT$25. A bit further south is Chaguanas, a great place to reasonably refill your clothes locker. „Continued on next page Once away from the urban areas, Trinidad takes on a different lookROGER WEBB

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MARCH 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 36 Your Expert Guide to Carriacous Best Diving Find us right in the town of Hillsborough! Phone/Fax (473) 443-7882 and VHF CH 16 scubamax@spiceisle.com www.scubamax.com €Daily dives at 9.30 am and 1.30 pm or individually €Air-Fills at PADI 5 * Standard €Scuba and Snorkel Gear Rental € PADI Courses from Beginner to Instructor & 15 Specialties in English & Deutsch €Rendezvous Service for Sailors at Hillsborough, Sandy Island & Tyrrel-Bay €Special Group Prices for Sailors INSTRUCTOR TRAINING B & C FUELS ENTERPRISEWelcomes you to Petite MartiniqueA stepping stone as you cruise through St. Vincent, Grenada and the Grenadines. Come alongside our splendid jetty and replenish your supplies of FUEL, OIL, WATER and ICE at the cheapest prices in the Grenadines. Call sign: Golf SierraŽ VHF channel 16 For further information call Glenn Clement or Reynold Belmar. Tel/Fax: (473) 443-9110 WALLILABOU ANCHORAGEWALLILABOU BAY HOTELVHF Ch 16 & 68(range limited by the hills) ... PORT OF ENTRY MOORING FACILITIES WATER, ICE, SHOWERS CARIBEE BATIK BOUTIQUE BAR AND RESTAURANT TOURS ARRANGED CREDIT CARDS ACCEPTED HAPPY HOUR 5-6 P.O. Box 851, St. Vincent & the Grenadines, West Indies. Tel: (784) 458-7270 Fax: (784) 457-9917 E-mail: wallanch@caribsurf.com „Continued from previous page South, farther along the Butler, is San Fernando (SandoŽ), the home of great hardware stores and specialized gasket and hose vendors. The suppliers of the oil and gas companies are there. Driving here is best left to a guide, as no street seems direct. A great restaurant is Uncle Sams, close to the Butler exit. For a totally stylish lunch or dinner, do Soons Great Wall. It is the placeŽ to celebrate an occasion. Jennys original restaurant is also in Sando. Southern Getaways Trinidads Tourism Department is located in Port of Spain and has excellent information available. They supply a booklet of available registeredŽ guesthouses all over the island. So if you want to get away from your boat or the yard, take a longer road trip. You wont be sorry. Pertinent direction signs have been installed. Follow the main road to Pointe-àPierre and the Wildlife Trust for sedate birdwatching. Follow the same road through huge coconut estates to Icacos on the islands southwest point. It is a usually quiet village on the Gulf of Paria. If you arrive in the early afternoon you might be able to get a deal on some fresh fish. Use your map and wind eastward through Erin and Moruga to Rio Claro and to the southeast point of Mayaro. This is on the Atlantic side and Mayaro is a tourist center with plenty of guesthouses. Drive north, since thats the only road, along a palm-lined coast to another tourist center, the beach at Manzanilla. There are inexpensive guesthouses available. On the rise leaving the beach towards Sangre Grande is The Last Stop, an excellent place to get a local favorite snack of shark and bakeŽ. Follow that road and it will take you to the Churchill Roosevelt and back west to Chaguaramas. Most of the southern and eastern parts of Trinidad are still old styleŽ rural, with only a few oil and gas pipes visible. Sugarcane fields and the sugar industry have almost vanished. There are a lot of small breakfast and lunch spots along the routes. Fresh fish, shrimp, crab, fruits and vegetables can easily be purchased at roadside vendors. Always try to pull entirely off the road safely or go on to the next vendor. North Coast Day Trips The road from Port of Spain to the north coast is another weekday trip. Maracas Bay, the best known of any Trini beach and home to numerous shark and bake vendors, is packed on weekends. Trinis love to eat and drink while at the beach. Scotch is the beverage of choice. Designated drivers havent really made it yet, neither has the Breathalyzer or the radar gun. The roads are narrow and the drop-offs steep and deadly. Beyond Maracas is Las Cuevas Beach, the calmest and clearest. This incredibly scenic road will take you to another great beach at Blanchisseuse where a river enters the ocean. This is a great spot for a picnic, or look for Freds place for a superb lunch and cocktails. If you arent exhausted and the sun is still high, take the road across the mountain to Arima. This route will pass the Asa Wright Nature Centre, famous for birdwatching. Excellent meals and accommodations are available at the Centre. Once in Arima, the Churchill Roosevelt will bring you west again. Arima also has an excellent horse track for monthly races (especially on Boxing Day). One of the finest of Trinidads road trips is to Toco on the northeast point. Follow the Churchill east to Valencia but take a left, rather than following it to Sangre Grande. Sections of this road are under repair, but it is also the main access to the quarries. Expect to see many dump trucks, but the drivers are usually courteous and safe. This road is incredibly scenic. The drive will pass an excellent beach and river intersection at Salybia, and a protected leatherback turtle nesting area at Ballandria. Gas is available in Cumuna, as is great local food at the Blue Restaurant. The lighthouse at Toco is a definite Kodak moment. Follow the road to Sans Souci and many excellent, relatively deserted beaches. Break Bay in Sans Souci is the only surfing beach in Trinidad. Grande Riviere is another tourist enclave with upscale restaurants and everything associated. This road ends in Matelot, a traditional fishing village, but before is the unbelievably picturesque Shark River, a great place to bathe in fresh water. The northeast coast is one of the few remaining parts of antique CaribbeanŽ Trinidad, while the remainder tries to accelerate into the modern first world. In the north, banana farmers still haul bunches off steep hills on their heads or on donkeys. This area is still relatively safe and reminds me of Jamaica in the early Seventies. Everyone is friendly and helpful to tourists. Youll hear soothing reggae rather than pounding hip-hop. Forget about governments and world problems, be wary of crime, and be happyŽ should be Trinidads 2008 motto. In Trinidad, a true melting pot, everyone, Indian, Chinese, African, Continental and Latino, seems to get along. Sports like cricket and especially soccer are a great common denominator. Carnival every spring is the mainstay of the culture. Petroleum and natural gas are the protectors of the economy. Enjoy the beautiful vistas and the many performing arts, but be careful. In every perspective, Trinidad has good value for the boating buck, with inexpensive escapes from yard and yacht drudgery. Just you and the bamboo. Trinidads interior provides great getaways from boatyard lifeCHRIS DOYLE

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MARCH 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 37 ENGINES(DUTY FREE PRICES)SPARES SERVICE MARINE EQUIPMENTLocated CALLIAQUA, St. Vincent opposite Howards MarineTEL: (784) 457 1806 FAX: (784) 456 1364 E-mail: kpmarine@caribsurf.com P.O. Box 17, Kingstown PAIE LTDY AMAHA MA R INE DISTRIBUTORKMRN frangipaniBequiaHOTEL €RESTAURANT €BARTel: (784) 458-3255 Fax: (784) 458-3824 E-mail: reservations@frangipanibequia.com Website: www.frangipanibequia.comDont miss our famous barbecue and jump upThursday nights!the For many years we cruised the Scandinavian waters during our summer holidays, but 15 years ago, my husband, Jens-Peter, said, Lets go sailing for three months.Ž I answered him that it was impossible because of our four grown children, the little one, our parents, my job, and the fact that I often get seasick. Is that all?Ž he said. A few months later we were on our way from Denmark to Mallorca through the canals and rivers of Germany, Luxembourg, Holland and France. Our grown-up children were happy alone; the youngest was with us. The parents just wished us luck, and my colleagues said they would look forward to seeing me again. And I did not get seasick (until we reached the Mediterranean). Everything was good. When we got back, my husband started to talk about a new dream: the Caribbean islands. I started up with the same old song, but he laughed. I dont know how he managed to get me to believe in his idea. But one day we had a great good-bye party. The Bay of Biscay was not too friendly, and I was seasick, yes. We saw Europe from the ocean side and visited big and small places on our way. We sailed south until the butter melted, and then turned west. We went from São Antau (one of the Cape Verde islands) to Barbados. In fact, we crossed the Atlantic in only 11 and a half days, a fact that my husband is always happy to discuss when asked. We did arrive in the Caribbean islands. It was back in 1998. And we are still here! We love it. We love to sail from island to island, to visit new places and go back to the old. We have met so many beautiful people, and made a lot of friendships. Normally we are in Denmark for nine months and here at the sunny islands for three. What a wonderful life! But every December, I start up with the old song: What about the children (and now grandchildren), the parents, my job? Anyway, the little one is now more than two metres tall, all of them live in their own homes, our parents are still going strong. And my work? I have changed my work. Now my job is to write: I am an author. I won a short story contest, my first novel is published and sells well, and some Danish magazines like my short stories: they buy them and publish them. This is my new job. And this job, I can do wherever I am in the world. But still landlubbers ask me: Why do you like to be a sailor? Let me tell you the truth: Yes, I like being a sailor and sailing on the beautiful blue sea, but in particular I like being a part of the sailing community: people of all ages and colours of skin, every sex and occupation, rich and poor, all nationalities. These people are peacefully helping each other with a big smile and small (and sometimes big) presents. If they catch a fish, they share with the neighbours. When they bake a cake, they cut it in pieces and give to the others around. And everyone knows how nice it is to get to a marina and see hands are ready to help you in and fasten your boat. Do you need a screw or a bolt? You can always get it from the boat next to you. Last year in Curaçao a competent Spanish lady gave free Spanish lessons to all who were interested. Today my neighbour had classes on his boat, teaching three children plus some grown-up cruisers the best methods of the art of catching fish He (of course) told them stories about the big fish he had caught, and they learned how to make the fishing equipment themselves. You know, I could continue this list, but you already know: Sailors are friends. Sailors make peace, not war. So, dont ask me again if I like being a sailor: I love it! And yes, I still get seasick sometimes, but there will always be snakes in paradise. Anne Hjælmsø is cruising the Caribbean aboard the yacht Rumkath.WHY DO YOU LIKE TO BE A SAILOR?by Anne Hjælmsø THIS CRUISING LIFE I like being a sailor and sailing on the beautiful blue sea, but in particular I like being a part of the sailing community

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MARCH 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 38 MARCH 2008 ARIES (21 Mar 20 Apr) Your sense of humor may jump overboard around the 17th, followed by your business plans on the 20th. Dont worry „ your love life will come to your rescue. TAURUS (21 Apr 21 May) Ease your sheets. This should be a time of relaxation for you; enjoy it! GEMINI (22 May 21 Jun) Its a fun month for you, too: a good time to get together with friends and have a picnic at the beach. CANCER (22 Jun 23 Jul) Your sense of humor is still on vacation around the 17th but business will get a lift from a woman friend or a love interest around the 20th. LEO (24 Jul 23 Aug) You, too, will get a break from the stresses of the seafaring life. Invite friends aboard for a party or day sail. VIRGO (24 Aug 23 Sep) Be ready to reef the main. There may be squalls with a love affair or female crew from around the 7th through the end of the month. LIBRA (24 Sep 23 Oct) Keep things light and have some fun this March. Dont let petty arguments blow you off course. SCORPIO (24 Oct 22 Nov) Though your business may be in the doldrums around the 20th, your social life will be on an incoming tide, bringing with it a potential romance. SAGITTARIUS (23 Nov 21 Dec) While it seems everyone elses social life is under full sail, yours will meet some choppy seas and fluky winds this month. CAPRICORN (22 Dec 20 Jan) Business is still a slog to windward and may make you cranky. Try to concentrate on the positive so as not to put a counter-current on the entire month. AQUARIUS(21 Jan 19 Feb) Life for you this month will be a pleasure sail. Take some time off to spend with those whom you enjoy and regain strength for the future. PISCES (20 Feb 20 Mar) Your love life will dominate your thoughts and energies at this time and will bring a freshening breeze to your business.Island Poets Crossword Solution ACROSS 1) CARDINAL 6) HADDOCK 7) HARE 8) BEE 12) NEST 13) MINNOW 15) A RAT 16) GOOSENECK 18) SHEEPSHANK 21) EATEN 23) GULL 25) BOOBY 27) CROWS 29) DOG 31) MOUSE 33) FISH 37) PARROT 38) EAGLE 39) HORSE DOWN 2) APE 3) AH 4) LARK 5) TEREDO 6) HEN 9) BEETLE 10) STAG 11) FOX 13) MONKEY 14) PAWS 16) GOAT 17) CATROPE 19) HOUND 20) SWALLOW 22) COW 24) ERNE 26) BIRDS 28) SPIDERS 30) OSPREY 31) BEAR 33) STEER 35) MULE 36) FLY FishcakesWe breakfasted on fishcakes And indescribable coffee. My roof is open to the rain; It beats with the aggressiveness Of freedom. With feet planted firmly On the ground, they ask If I mind the roll? I am Not particularly attached To gravity, and marvel At their concern. I have no need Of their heaven. I could create fifty better On one night watch. And of heaven? Camels through eyes of needles And such? No need, No miracle required. We have the night to ourselves. Forever changing Forever the same. Like fire. Like clay. Like life. There is not an ounce Of sense in any of it. Surely Earth does not need Our feeble stirrings. And so, my poem Is concerned only with A song about an idiot And a king. People were made To talk to one another. „ John A. Smith LOULOUNE

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MARCH 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 39 CompassCruising Crossword ANIMALS ABOARDACROSS1) North, south, east and west are ________ points on the compass 6) Species of cod 7) Sea _____: a type of hull-clinging mollusk 8) Piece of wood attached to side of bowsprit 12) 27 Across ____: observation platform 13) Smallest bait fish 15) I smell _ ___ 16) Fitting attaching boom to mast 18) Knot to take up slack in a line 21) 33 Across are _____ by 26 Down 23) Noisy sea bird 25) Blue-footed _____ 27) Black birds 29) ___-house: small structure on deck 31) Type of fine baggywrinkle 33) To splice a broken spar by placing splints over the break 37) Pirates pet 38) Sea _____: Manta ray 39) Footrope in the yards of a square riggerDOWN2) Deck hand 3) Sound before ha!Ž 4) Small boat 5) Wood-eating sea worm 6) Sea ___: grey gurnard 9) Shipwrights heavy mallet 10) Rock to be watched out for 11) Rope yarn used for seizing 13) ______s fist: woven knot on end of heaving line 14) Ships cats feet 16) An animal of the Zodiac 17) Line for hauling cat hook 19) Trestletree support 20) _______-tail: points of a burgee 22) ___ hitch: slip knot 24) ____ Lee Bradford: nautical author 26) 1 Across, 23 Across, 25 Across, 27 Across, 36 Across, 37 Across, 4 Down, 6 Down, 20 Down and 24 Down are all _____ 28) Hoops around mast to attach futtock shrouds 30) Sea hawk 31) To ____ up is to come into the wind 33) Control helm 35) Animal that pulled barges on Erie Canal 36) Compass cardSolution on page 38 parlumps maroonedPARLUMPS@HOTMAIL.COM NAUTICAL FACTOIDS ©Caribbean Compass 2008

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MARCH 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 40 If you attempted last months guessing game to find the names of some of the organizations involved in oceanographic studies, you will know how many different groups there are. A real alphabet soup! But this shows how important scientists think it is to monitor the state of the oceans of the world. So, what do they use to do the monitoring? Here are some of the methods used. Satellites moving in orbit around the earth contain instruments that make observations about the ocean surface. They can see whether seas are rough or calm. They can measure the extent of ice cover at the polar regions and they can show surface currents. Stationary buoys have been moored at various locations, especially in tropical latitudes, to measure the physical and chemical properties of the sea around them. Pressure gauges left on the sea floor can detect changes around them and give warning of possible tsunamis. Small, drifting robot monitors measure pressure, salinity and temperature in the sea. They can dive down and take measurements below the surface, and then they bob up again and transmit their readings via satellite. Robotic submersibles can take pictures of the deep ocean where humans cannot reach. Scientists are experimenting with instruments that can be carried by special balloons into the centres of hurricanes so that the air and sea conditions there can be measured. Scientists on research ships can take samples of water directly from the sea and study the distribution of marine species. They can even find the DNA sequencing in marine micro-organisms for better identification of each species. Sonar is used to show the whereabouts of schools of fish. It is also used to map the contours of the sea floor. The tagging of marine creatures gives information about how those creatures live, how and where they migrate and how far they travel. What is important now is to make sure that all the information obtained from these monitoring systems is available to everyone who needs to use it. Thats why all those scientific groups must come together to coordinate their activities and work towards the goal of an integrated and comprehensive ocean observation system. Word Puzzle Unscramble the following to make words you can find in the text above. What do the answers have in common? 1. TICESSINTS_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ 2.EPISCES_ _ _ _ _ _ _ 3.YINSTAIL_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ 4. FACRUSE_ _ _ _ _ _ _ 5. RATTYASION_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ 6. LISTETALE_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ 7. MAPLESS_ _ _ _ _ _ _ 8. QUINGSCENE_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ 9. DUSTISE_ _ _ _ _ _ _ 10. COSHSOL_ _ _ _ _ _ _Answers on page 43ELAINE OLLIVIERRE 2007 © PROUDLY SPONSORED BY PETIT ST. VINCENT RESORT Hello!MynameisDollyandmyhomeisinthesea.DOLLYS DEEP SECRETSby Elaine Ollivierre All the fish who made their home inside and under the shipwreck on the reef agreed that there was no better place to be. It was safe, it was comfortable, it was beautiful. This particular shipwreck happened to be just off the calm western coast of lush and mountainous St. Lucia. In fact, this wreck hadnt been wrecked on the reef at all, it was an old freighter that had been towed there and sunk especially as a home for fish and an exciting dive for enthusiastic scuba divers. The wreck sat upright on the sand on the edge of the reef and over the years it had attracted all sorts of colourful and fabulous sea creatures. Most people would have said the wreck was covered in plants but those lacy fans glowing deep gold and burnt orange that wave about in the sea currents on the hull are animals. Thats right, the gardens of the sea are mostly animals „ not the sort with four legs and a tail. No, these animals are tiny, colonies of creatures that catch even tinier creatures that drift by. And the coral structures they live in? Well, they make them with their own spitŽ. Deep inside the hull is an enchanting apple blossomŽ orchard of soft corals „ telesto really „ and you would think that you had entered an enchanted garden the moment you saw it. What with all the sponges, from the golden trumpets of the tube sponges to the cobalt blue, red and lavender encrusting star sponges, the green and gold twined finger sponges, and all the gorgeous sea rods, why, no wonder the fish thought that they lived in paradise! And just think, all these fish and sea creatures were the best of friends and helpful neighbours. Morry, our Moray, was a big, strong, olive green eel, one of the largest types of eels you will see on the reefs. Morry had been taught by his mother when he was only a little eel how to hide in the smallest cracks and joins of the wreck during the day and how to slither out at night and find his dinner. But as Morry grew and his teeth grew with him, so he ventured out during the day, too. Sometimes he hung about and let the divers have a good look at him. One of the divers was bold enough to stroke his smooth skin but he opened his wide mouth and looked so menacing that the diver swam off in a fright. Morry laughed to himself and felt very powerful. As time went by, and Morry came out more and more from the home that he had made for himself under the hull of the wreck, so the divers began to look for him. Morry felt himself swell with pride and he became very vain. Living in her own space under the hull was Gilda, a Scarlet Glassy-Eyed Snapper with silver shadows across her scales and she warned Morry that he was getting too big for his fins. Indeed all the yellow and black banded Sergeant Majors that swam about the wreck, as well as the crimson Soldier Fish with their big, black eyes, warned Morry that pride is all very well, but you know what comes before a fall! Morry knew that with one swish of his powerful body he could knock any interfering fish to kingdom come, so he just tilted his head higher and told them they were jealous. Morry soon began to explore the wreck. He decided that this was great fun and so he went further and further in his daily travels until he knew all of the wreck, the decks, the hold, the engine room so well that he now regarded the entire wreck as his kingdom. He even surprised a small barracuda browsing through the apple blossomŽ orchard and chased it away. The fish living so peacefully before began to fear that Morry would evict them. But luckily for everyone, Morry found a particular spot on the wreck that he had overlooked. It was an outside passageway along the same deck as the apple blossomŽ orchard. As he had slithered along this passage before he had failed to look up but this particular day he glanced at the ceiling and was immediately spellbound. He could see his own reflection! Yes, the air breathed out by the divers had formed an air pocket up there and the undersurface was as bright and polished as a mirror. Oh, Morry gazed at his magnificent self and fell in love. He could not drag his eyes away! He hung his full five feet down vertically, something that eels never do, so that he didnt have to strain his neck by looking up. Morry hung there until the sun went down over the mountains and the wreck became a dark cavern. Morry pulled himself together then and went off to hunt down his dinner. The next morning Morry was back underneath his mirror and every day thereafter, that is where you would find him. The divers found him and he became the talk of the diving world, and of course of the fish world, too. The inhabitants of the wreck didnt want such attention as many of the divers were clumsy and broke up their coral and sponge homes. One night after a meeting with all of the residents, Gilda, the Glassy-Eyed Snapper, Charlie the leader of the Soldier Fish and Sid the spokesman for the Sergeant Majors, went to Morry as he lay resting in his sand home under the hull and told him flat out that he was a menace to everyones peace and comfort and should stop his nonsense and go back to being a proper Moray Eel. It had no effect on Morry at all, in fact he nastily spat at them and bared his fangs. Well, not too long after this, three divers with spear guns swam into the wreck when no one else was about and together they speared poor Morry. One got him in the head, another in the chest and the last in his elegant, long body. Powerful Morry put up a good struggle but he was mortally wounded and the fight was over quickly. The spear fishermen carried off vain Morry in triumph as their trophy. Well, the moral of this story is as plain as the nose on your faceƒ. THE END CRUISING KIDS CORNER Sometimes he hung about and let the divers have a good look at himThe Shipwreck and Morry the Morayby Lee Kessell

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MARCH 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 41 Join our growing list of on-line subscribers! 12 issues US$29.95, 24 issues US$53.95 Same price, same content — faster delivery!www.caribbeancompass.com "It's a very informative source of Ôgoings on' in the Caribbean boating world." Nancy H. Bennet California, USA ALICE THE BOAT DOGby Bob WilliamsonAlice was a small boat dog of mixed parentage but mostly terrier. She belonged to Vadim Ulianov and they both lived in St. Martin. She had been born on a coastal boat and had spent most of her life aboard various tugs and boats with only human friends. In fact, she was always suspicious of the other dogs she met on various trips ashore in dinghies, much preferring the company of people, specially among Vadims pals. They all thought highly of Alice and began calling her E.T. because of her seemingly amazing talent for communication . One day, for example, Vadims girlfriend, Marisol, telephoned him to say that she was at their apartment about two miles down the coast and had forgotten to bring her key. Vadim was in the middle of a job and couldnt spare the time to bring the key to her, so Marisol said Give the key to Alice and tell her to bring it to the apartment.Ž Vadim thought this sounded a bit tricky, so Marisol asked to speak to Alice, whom she called Alisky which she thought to be a more suitable Russian name. The dog was, by the way, fluent in French, English and Russian. Alice listened intently to Marisols directions, which included a reminder that the apartment was above Alices favourite restaurant where she was always given immense quantities of chicken bones. Vadim attached the key to Alices collar and said Right. Off you go. Dont wander around „ go straight to Marisol, and come straight back.Ž The dog was back quite quickly, just a minute or two after Marisol had telephoned Vadim to say she now had the key. Alice was well used to going for rides on Vadims motorcycle „ never by herself, mind you, but balancing between Vadims arms. Wherever she went, generally to parties ashore, Alice would sit between Marisol and any potential suitor, guarding Marisol as if her life depended on it. And on most return trips to their boat, Alice would steer the dinghy by various clever nudges, in order to visit other boats where there was any possibility of there being a party on board. Once in a while Alice would get a little drunk and you could always tell if there was only one ear sticking up „ the other having passed out cold. She was the original party animal. Sadly, Alice crossed to the other shore when she was only a bit more than five years old. She was sorely missed by all her many friends, who all hoped she had not arrived in Dog Heaven but rather to one inhabited by human beings. Shes probably sitting right now at Gods feet, waiting for the occasional chicken bone.Read in Next Months Compass:Guadeloupe to Montserratƒ by Paddleboard! Sailing Directions: Leaving the Caribbean Cruisers Angel Falls Adventureƒ and more!

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MARCH 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 42 Cuba „ and the Caribbean „ in BloomTrees of Cuba by Angela Leiva (translated by Juliet Barclay), photos by Gonzalo Canetti. Macmillan Caribbean Natural History. G2007. Paperback, 106 pages, color photos throughout. ISBN 978-1-4050-2905-6. Flowers of Cuba by Angela Leiva (translated by Juliet Barclay), photos by Gonzalo Canetti. Macmillan Caribbean Natural History. G2007. Paperback, 112 pages, color photos throughout. ISBN 978-1-4050-2904-9. £7.50. The largest island in the Caribbean by far, Cuba is also one of the most richly endowed islands in the world when it comes to flora. According to Trees of Cuba , there are around 7,000 native plants growing here in a wide diversity of eco-systems, soil types and altitudes. Although Cuba has suffered tremendous loss of habitat in its history, a total of 22 percent of the island is now under the protected areas system. Six Biosphere Reserves, two World Heritage sites and six Ramsar sites (wetlands) are among the most relevant protected areas. These books, translated into English, provide a clear, concise and comprehensive introduction to Cubas flowers and trees „ many of which bloom impressively. They are written not for specialists but for nature-lovers who are visiting Cuba and are interested in identifying the countrys flowering herbaceous plants and trees, whether they be in cities, on the beach, or in the islands woods, savannahs or mountains. Because Cuba contains just about every type of ecosystem found elsewhere in the Caribbean, ranging from humid mountain rainforest to arid sandy cays, these easily portable field guides will be valuable additions to the libraries of botanizersŽ living or traveling throughout the region. Covering all the most commonly observed species and some lesser-known varieties, these handy guides include high-quality color photos of every species and descriptions of flowers, leaves, seeds and bark as aids to identification. Medical and culinary uses are mentioned where appropriate, in addition to clearly stated warnings about poisonous species. The author, Angela Leiva, is a Doctor of Biological Sciences and professor at the University of Havana. She is a director of the Cuban National Botanic Garden and is currently working on the conservation of threatened Cuban plants. These books are available at bookstores or from www.macmillan-caribbean.com.

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MARCH 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 43 Marine Insurance The insurance business has changed. No longer can brokers talk of low rates. Rather,the honest broker can only say, "I'll do my best to minimize your increase!" There is good insurance,there is cheap insurance,but there is no good cheap insurance.You never know how good your insurance is until you have a claim. Then,if the claim is denied or unsatisfactorily settled, it is too late.I have been in the insurance business 40 years, 36 with Lloyds, and my claims settlement record cannot be beat. Fax DM Street Iolaire Enterprises (353) 28 33927 or e-mail: streetiolaire@hotmail.com www.street-iolaire.com BY BY BY BY DESIG DESIG DESIG DESIGN N N N Jolly Harbour, Antigua UPHOLSTERY UPHOLSTERY UPHOLSTERY UPHOLSTERY INTERIORS INTERIORS INTERIORS INTERIORS FRESH TROPICAL FRESH TROPICAL FRESH TROPICAL FRESH TROPICAL FLOWERS FLOWERS FLOWERS FLOWERS Cell: (268) 464-5335 Lois Warner Shop: (268) 562-6960 Fax: (268) 560-9372 Email: flowersinteriors@yahoo.com SPICE ISLAND COOKBOOKSGreat Grenada Recipes , compiled by Wendy Hartland, Island Recipes Unlimited. © 2006, paperback, 80 pages, color photos. ISBN 978-976-8212-04-7. Great Grenada Fish & Seafood Recipes, Volume One , compiled by Wendy Hartland, Island Recipes Unlimited. © 2007, paperback, 80 pages, color photos. ISBN 978-976-8212-12-2. Wendy Hartland first came to Grenada in 1966 on holiday from what was then in transition from the colony of British Guiana to the independent nation of Guyana „ her husband, Mike, was a major in the British Army. The Hartland family fell in love with the islandŽ, moved there and built their first house in 1968. Wendy, an artist, is now a Grenadian citizen and has her studio and art gallery near St. Georges. As Wendy says in the introduction to Great Grenada Recipes , Most Grenadians are very capable cooks, and enjoy it, and many are also likely to have woken at dawn to spend a couple of hours in the garden tending their crops before going to work. This interest in food, from planting it to cooking it, is reflected in the wholesome and delicious range of recipes gathered here.Ž Various chefs, restaurateurs and individuals on the Isle of Spice, and its sister isles Carriacou and Petite Martinique, donated the recipes published in both books. This gives a broad range of examples „ from the traditional to the trendy „ of Grenadas cuisine. Great Grenada Recipes ranges from old-time Grenadian favorites such as Salt Fish Souse with Fried Bakes, Coo-Coo Pois and Crab Backs to updated ways with island ingredients „ Tofu, Mushroom & Avocado Stir-Fry, Fish & Callaloo Lasagne and Passion Fruit Ganache, for example. In between are Caribbean classics including Baked Stuffed Red Snapper, Curried Mutton and Tuna Fish & Avocado Salad, as well as imaginative creations such as Chilled Spicy Watermelon Soup with Shrimp, Carambola Salad and Pumpkin Punch. After each recipe is the contributors name and home community „ its fun for anyone who has spent time in Grenada to see who did what (So thats how Shirleys mother made her Salt Fish Pie!Ž) and note the specialties of different localities. Its no surprise that the recipe for Lambie (Conch) Waters is from the fishing community of Petite Martinique and Provision Pudding hails from the agricultural area around Mount Moritz. Great Grenada Fish & Seafood Recipes, Volume One demonstrates how many different ways Grenadians have to prepare the bounty of the sea that surrounds them. So many ways, in fact, that Volume Two is already in the works. Hartland could have commented: Many Grenadians have woken before dawn to spend a couple of hours on the sea, fishing before going to work.Ž Again, the range of recipes is broad, from heartwarming Ackras like Granny used to make for breakfast (with breadfruit and cocoa tea), to an ambitious Lobster Burger on Plantain Rosti with Ginger Corn Salsa. Some non-seafood recipes sneaked into this book, but these salads, vegetables and desserts will go deliciously with the fish dishes. Tip of the day: Tie sprigs of sage, rosemary and thyme together in a bunch. Dip in olive oil or melted butter. Brush over grilled or broiled fish to season. Unusually, most of the photos in these books are not of the prepared dishes, or the stages of making them, or even the ingredients. Rather, they are scenic shots intending to give the books souvenir value. These images are a refreshing addition, but we hope that future volumes will include a few more photos of ingredients and finished dishes, for the benefit of those who might not know what a christophene „ or a properly done plantain rosti „ looks like. Both books are available at shops in Grenada or from iru@spiceisle.com. A donation to charity will be made from the sale of each copy of both books. DOLLYS ANSWERS1.SCIENTISTS 2.SPECIES 3.SALINITY 4.SURFACE 5.STATIONARY 6.SATELLITE 7.SAMPLES 8.SEQUENCING 9.STUDIES 10.SCHOOLS They all begin with the letter S

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MARCH 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 44 WHACHA GONNA DO WITH ALL THOSEƒ In every market and grocery store in the Caribbean, were sure to encounter vegetables we can only call other root thingsŽ until we learn their local names and experiment to see what we can make of them. Its all just part of the Caribbean adventure! Depending on where you buy them, Ipomoea batata is called white sweet potato, Cuban sweet potato, sweet-sweet, camote, boniato or batata. Just because it fits the Latin name so nicely, I am going to stick with batatas. This fleshy taproot looks much like the sweet potatoŽ known in the US. The color is a little different„ either dark purplish or lighter reddish „ rather than the orange color of North American sweet potatoesŽ. But they are about the same size and shape. When you cut a batata, youll discover that the insides are a creamy white and the flesh will cook up drier and fluffier than their orange-fleshed cousins. Look for batatas that are rock hard and free from bruises, blemishes, wrinkles, and any white or black molds. As with all fruits and vegetables, choose specimens that are heavy for their size: they will be the juiciest. The smaller batatas are apt to be more flavorful and have a better consistency. Once you get them home, store them in a cool, airy place out of direct light and they should last for a week or so. They do not need to be refrigerated. If your recipe calls for you to peel them, submerge the peeled ones in water until you are ready to proceed as this will avoid discoloration. You can bake, fry, boil, or microwave batatas just as you would any potato. You can use them as a substitute for the more familiar orange sweet potato in pies, casseroles, soups „ they are most versatile. Many Caribbean cooks combine batatas with other vegetables, such as pumpkin or squash, cassava, potatoes and yams. This combination is often listed in recipes as ground provisionsŽ, with the percentage of each varying depending on whats available at market on a given day. And cooks often combine such ground provisions with plantains or green bananas, black or red beans, corn, breadfruit, and various meats or fish and spices to make a full-meal stew. Pepperpot or Sancocho are two of the names given to hodgepodge stews of this sort. Such stews are prepared in households throughout the Caribbean region, each cook advocating a special combination of ingredients. Chefs in Venezuela broke the Guinness World Record by making a sancocho combining 15,300 pounds of vegetables and 11,000 pounds of meat „ enough to feed 70,000 people! Dominican-Style Sancocho 2 pounds chicken, in skinned serving-size pieces 1 pound pork chops 3/4 pound goat meat or beef 6 Tablespoons sour orange juice 1 medium onion, diced 4 cloves garlic, mashed 2 green peppers, diced 1 pound tomatoes, diced 1 Tablespoon Worcestershire sauce 5 teaspoons salt 1/2 pound salt pork, cut in half-inch cubes 2 Tablespoons cooking oil 1/2 pound sausage 2 large plantains 1 pound cassava 1 pound taro 1 pound pumpkin 1 pound batatas 3 ears corn on the cob 1 pound yam 3 liters water 1 Tablespoon oregano Fresh parsley Cilantro leaves 1 chicken bouillon cube 1 Tablespoon vinegar Wipe chicken, pork chops, and goat or beef with sour orange juice. Cook each meat (except for salt pork) separately in the following manner: put meat in skillet with a portion of the onions, garlic, bell peppers, tomatoes, Worcestershire sauce, and salt. Add water as needed to make a sauce in the pan. Cook meats only till just barely tender. In the meantime, fry salt pork in oil over medium high heat until barely tender. Remove salt pork and set aside. In same skillet, brown sausage. Set aside with all oil. Peel and cut all vegetables into about two-inch serving size pieces, putting them in a large stockpot of cold water as you work to avoid discoloration. Keep back half of the pumpkin to add later as the first portion will cook down and thicken the sancocho. Add all the prepared meats and remaining ingredients to the stockpot. Bring stew to boil then lower heat to simmer. Add remainder of pumpkin. Watch that the stew does not get too thick and watch that the vegetables do not overcook. If some vegetables are becoming too tender, remove them temporarily. Serve sancocho with rice, hot sauce, and slices of avocado. Serves 9. Beef and Batata Kabobs 1/2 Cup olive oil 1/4 Cup sour orange juice 3 Tablespoons jerk seasoning 2 teaspoons cumin 1 pound lean beef, cut in 1-inch cubes 2 small batatas, boiled, peeled, cut in 1-inch cubes „Continued on next pageBATATAS?by Mary Heckrotte

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MARCH 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 45 Basils Bar Mustique WE SHIP AROUND THE WORLD! Visit Basil's in Mustique or St. Vincentwww.basilsbar.com basils@caribsurf.comVisitors to Mustique are invited to:BASIL'S BAR AND RESTAURANT: Basil's Bar in Mustique was named one of the World's Ten Best Bars in 1987 by Newsweek magazine and today lives up to that tradition. Recently renovated the new face of Basil's Bar in Mustique is all that and more offering the freshest seafood, steaks and pastas for dinner. Terrific lunches and breakfasts. Now equipped with WIFI you can enjoy sunset cocktails and catch up on the web. Basil's Bar is home and originator of the Mustique Blues Festival, January 23 February 6, 2008. Breakfast service begins at 8:00 AM, Lunch is served 11:00 AM6 PM, Dinner at 7:30 until late. Come to Basil's for Cocktails anytime and plan to attend the Wednesday night Jump up and BBQ. Call 784-488-8350 or VHF 68. BASIL'S BOUTIQUE Fabrics as bright as the sea and as light as air... perfect for island joy. Elegant island evening and playful day wear. For women, men and children, plus lots of T-shirts to take home. Basil's Boutique also offers silver and gemstone jewelry. BASIL'S GREAT GENERAL STORE: There is nothing general about Basil's Great General Store stocked with fine French wines, cheeses from Europe, sauces and gourmet jams. Imported cigars. Fine foods in Paradise. Call 784-488-8407 ACROSS FOREVER: Imagine, decorating your home with Antiques from Bali and India contemporary pieces and fabulous lighting. Across Forever has a magnificent collection of furniture and home accessories from Asia. Shipping is easily and efficiently arranged. Call 784-488-8407Visitors to St Vincent are invited to:BASIL'S BAR: In St Vincent near the port of Kingstown is an 18th century cobblestone building where you may find Basil's Restaurant and Bar. Air conditioned, you will enjoy cocktails most delightful, the staff most welcoming and the meals, some of the best on the island. Call 784-457-2713 Special 8-grain bread Fresh Croissants daily New location at former Le Petit Jardin Wir sprechen Deutsch Credit Cards welcome! Fine Wines Imported Cheeses & Pastas Daily Fresh Herbs & Produce and other gourmet foodsVHF 68 Tel (784) 458-3625 Fax (784) 457-3134 doris_freshfood@yahoo.com in BequiaYACHTPROVISIONING Your #1Choice for Provisioning in the Grenadines.Fine Wine, Cheeses, Fresh Fruits, Vegetables and Choice MeatsMonday-Saturday: 8am to12pm & 3pm to 6pm Sunday: 9am to12pmTHE FOOD STORE Corea  s MustiqueTel: (784) 488-8479 Fax: (784) 456-5230 BEQUIA, Port Elizabeth, Admiralty Bay Tel: (784) 457 3443 €e-mail: saltydog@vincysurf.comBequia Restaurant Great Cocktails & Fun Full Cable TV • Air Conditioning • Sportsbar • Pool TableBar open daily untilƒ Sunday 6pm 2am Kitchen open Monday to Saturday 10am 10pm Menu: Burgers, Flying Fish, Philly Steak Sandwiches,Fajitas, Salads, Chicken Wings, Conch Fritters, etc. Dinner Menu will be available from Dec 07 „Continued from previous page 1 medium bell pepper, diced 1 medium zucchini, cut in 1-inch cubes 2 shallots, cut in half In a small bowl, mix oil, juice, jerk, and cumin. Divide mixture into two zipper plastic bags. In one bag, add beef. In the other bag, add batatas, pepper, zucchini, and shallots. Shake each bag gently to coat ingredients. Chill bags 30 minutes or longer. Drain beef and vegetables, discarding marinade. Alternate beef and vegetable cubes on skewers then broil or grill 10 to 12 minutes until lightly browned on all sides. Mashed Garlic Batatas 4 medium batatas 1 Cup sour cream 1/2 Cup butter 1/4 Cup roasted garlic Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste Peel batatas, putting them immediately into a pot of boiling salted water. Boil 20 to 30 minutes until tender. Drain, add remaining ingredients and use an electric mixer to combine all until smooth. Add more sour cream and/or butter if mixture appears too thick or dry. Batata Pecan Casserole 6 medium batatas, peeled and boiled until tender 1 Cup raisins 1/2 Cup pecans, chopped 1 teaspoon vanilla 2 Tablespoons lemon juice 2 Tablespoons butter, melted 1/2 Cup corn syrup 1/3 Cup sugar 1/4 teaspoon cinnamon 1/4 teaspoon nutmeg 1/4 teaspoon allspice 1/4 teaspoon salt Slice batatas and make a layer of half the slices in a baking dish sprayed with non-stick. Sprinkle on half of the raisins and pecans. Layer on remaining batata slices. In a small bowl, mix together the vanilla, lemon juice, butter, and corn syrup, sugar, and spices. Pour mixture over batatas. Bake at 350°F for 45 minutes. Serves 6. Batata Plantain Mash 3 pounds batatas 2 yellow plantains 1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract 1/4 Cup milk 4 Tablespoons butter Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste Peel batatas and plantains, cut them into small chunks, submerging pieces immediately in a pot of water to avoid discoloration. Bring water to boil and cook 15 to 20 minutes until pieces are tender. Drain. Add remaining ingredients. Using an electric mixer, combine all until smooth. Batata Pudding 2 eggs, beaten 1/2 Cup milk 1 Cup sugar 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon 1/2 Cup butter 1/2 teaspoon nutmeg 2 Cups grated raw batata 1/2 teaspoon salt 1 can (13 ounces) evaporated milk 1 Cup shredded coconut In a large mixing bowl, mix together eggs, butter, and sugar. Stir in remaining ingredients. Pour into a 1 and one-half quart casserole pan sprayed with non-stick. Bake at 350°F for 1 hour or until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean.

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MARCH 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 46 Stock Upon the widest selection and the best prices in Grenada at our two conveniently located supermarkets. Whether its canned goods, dairy products, meat, fresh vegetables or fruits, toiletries, household goods, or a fine selection of liquor and wine, The Food Fair has it all and a lot more.Hubbards JONAS BROWNE & HUBBARD (Gda.) Ltd. The Carenage: Monday Thursday 8 am to 5:30 pm Friday until 8:45 pm Saturday until 1:00 pm Tel: (473) 440-2588 Grand Anse: Monday Thursday 9 am to 5:30 pm Friday & Saturday until 7:00 pm Tel: (473) 444-4573 MAC'S PIZZERIAIn addition to our famous pizza we offer seasonal specialties and fresh baked goods. Open daily from 11:00am to 10:00pm. Situated in Admiralty Bay, Bequia between the Frangipani and Plantation House. For Reservations: VHF Ch68 or Tel: (784) 458 3474 Tel: ( 784 ) 458-3758 in Lower Bay,Bequia Come and find us amongst the trees!Candelight Dinners Monday to SaturdayPLEASE RESERVE!PORTHOLE RESTAURANT & BAR& Shoreline Mini-MarketA friendly atmosphere where you can sit and meet people.Admiralty Bay, Bequia Noelina & Lennox Taylor welcome you! VHF CH68 Phone (784) 458-3458 We serve breakfast, lunch and dinnerAfew years ago we were anchored in Secret Harbor, Grenada. It was pre-Ivan, and the Moorings charter base was bustling. I met a taxi driver, Dennis, who had a van called Blue Angel . One look at Dennis and you knew he liked to eat. During an island tour he stopped a few times to buy fruit, such as bananas and sapodillas. Then he pulled beside a truck loaded with pea pods. It was my first experience with another Caribbean essential, pigeon peas. I had eaten the rice-based dish peleau many times, but never gave a thought to the type of beans or peas that were mixed with the rice. Dennis was an expert at choosing pigeon peas. Fresh ones should be bought by the color and condition of the pods. However, pod colors range from green to reddish to deep purple, from brown to black, and even white or striped. Fresh pea pods should be crisp and snap apart if twisted. Supermarkets have canned, dried or frozen pigeon peas. Myself, I have learned to love shelling fresh peas in the cockpit while listening to the BBC. Never dump the pods overboard „ they float! Since that day, Ive talked to many islanders who eagerly wait for pigeon-pea season to get the natural nutty, good-earth taste of fresh or greenŽ peas. Although an important crop of India, pigeon peas originated in Africa. Four-thousand-year-old pigeon peas have been discovered in Egyptian tombs. Africans call these peas Congo beans or Angola peas, while the Indian names are arhar or toor. In parts of the Caribbean the peas are called gungo peas. Pigeon peas are a good source of protein, especially for vegetarians. To receive the most benefit from peas or beans, they are best eaten with a complement of rice or wheat. All peas and beans are great sources of B vitamins, which help the body resist diseases. Pigeon peas contain iron, zinc and calcium. These peas also have Vitamin C, but this vitamin is more prevalent if the peas are used as sprouts. Sprouts can be cooked in stir-fry or added to sandwiches. Very young pea pods may also be added to stir fries, soups and stews. The recipes below call for shelled fresh or greenŽ peas. Dried pigeon peas, like all dried beans, take a lot longer to cook. Coconut Milk Peas 1 pound pigeon peas 4 Cups coconut milk* 2 Tablespoons canola oil 1 Tablespoon curry massala powder 2 medium onions, chopped 1 hot pepper, minced salt and spice to taste * Coconut milk can be made from scratch, but its easy to buy it canned or make it from powder. If using canned, dont buy Coco Lopez, which is a sweetened product for making piña coladas! Add peas to a large pot of boiling water and simmer until tender. (This takes longer than garden peas.) Drain excess water and stir in 2 Cups of the coconut milk. Simmer, adding water if peas get dry. In a frying pan, add curry powder to oil and heat, stirring, for one minute. Add onions and pepper. Taste peas to be certain they are soft, and add to frying pan. Add remaining coconut milk and heat for five minutes. Season to taste. Serve hot on a bed of rice. Three P Soup (Pigeon Peas and Pepper) 4 Cups water 1 Tablespoon olive oil 1 bay leaf 2 Cups pigeon peas 1/2 hot pepper, chopped fine 1 cube vegetable bouillon Salt and spice to taste 3 stalks celery, chopped 1/4 cup sliced mushrooms 1/4 Cup chopped chadon bene Add oil and bay leaf to a large pot of boiling water. Add peas and pepper and boil until peas are soft. Add bouillon and salt/spices to taste. Remove from heat and add celery, mushrooms and chadon bene. Let sit for ten minutes before serving. (Diced chicken or beef may be added.) Pigeon Pea Cakes 1 Cup pigeon peas 2 pounds yams, peeled and cubed 1 Tablespoon butter 2 chives, chopped 1 bunch parsley, chopped 1 onion, chopped 1 clove garlic, minced 3 Tablespoons flour 1/2 cup bread crumbs Oil for frying Boil peas and yams until soft. Mash yams and mix in peas. In a frying pan, heat butter and add chives and parsley. Add these seasonings to the yam-and-pea mix. Add flour and bread crumbs and mix well. Drop by spoonfuls into hot oil. These may also be baked or grilled (if it is a stiff mixture). SERVING AT SEA BY SHIRLEY HALL P P I I G G E E O O N N P P E E A A S S

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MARCH 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 47Dear CC Editor, Why did you send my rejection of eAPIS (January Forum) to the Caribbean Marine Association? I want to know what the perpetrators of this fraud, CARICOM, have to say! And what do you mean, Worry no more!Ž now that APIS is allegedly finished? No more ambushes by governments playing follow-the-leader into an Orwellian future in the name of the War on Terror? No more razor wire or e-reports? No more popup, unreasoned, intrusive, paranoid, useless, and arbitrary intrusions on our freedom? That governments are now going to use balance and logic in the War on Terror? The Caribbean Marine Associations response makes it clear why you sent it to them. This isnt about a wasteful procedure that is useless. Nor is it about arbitrary restrictions to personal freedoms. This is about inconveniencing people who have financial clout. Yachties are among the most conspicuous consumers. So, yachts are now exempt. Hooray! Another blow for freedom and democracy... rather, for capitalism, consumerism, and the rights of the rich. Jim Hutchinson S/Y Ambia USA Hi Hutch, Your letter, along with others on the same topic, as submissions intended for the public domain, were forwarded to the CMA both for their published response and in the interest of the greater good, as the CMA was gathering statistics and public opinion in their effort to stop the application of eAPIS (the electronic Advance Passenger Information System) to yachts traveling in the CARICOM (Caribbean Economic Community) area as quickly as possible. The CMA is a trade association (its the regional umbrella body for all the national marine trade associations in the Caribbean), so of course their emphasis in the matter is economic. By drawing attention to its economic repercussions, among other factors such as those you mentioned in your previous letter (e.g. unworkable regulations that make people flout the law), the CMA was successful in having the application of eAPIS to yachts stopped. I dont know of any human rights or similar association who took up the anti-APIS cause, never mind the wider cause of ensuring unrestricted personal freedom for all. Wouldnt it be great if one did? As for hearing from CARICOM about the APIS-foryachts misadventure, as far as we know, no statement was ever made. All the best, Sally Dear Compass, Re: Macareo Meander in the February issue of Compass . Ms. Sharp has written: Not all bottom paint will remain effective after a prolonged immersion in fresh water. (It would be a shame to ruin that new bottom paint in a few quick weeks on the river.)Ž I contacted Jotun, Interlux, Pettit, Sigma and SeaHawk. All of these manufacturers of marine antifouling paint confirmed that immersion in fresh water would not degrade performance of their paints on return to saltwater. Interlux noted that their 66Ž paint should not be immersed in fresh water for a week following initial application. It would be a shame if cruisers were put off from exploring this most interesting area by unwarranted concerns over their bottom paint. The Caribbean Compass performs a valuable role in encouraging people to see new places and try new things, and in transmitting useful information. Providing more and better data is an important part of that. For example, the Macareo article might have included more specific suggestions on how to prepare for a trip to the rivers; perhaps including how to check the US State Department fact sheets, visit the Venezuelan consulate in Trinidad, get yellow fever and malaria inoculations and medications, how to provision (food and fuel) and what equipment and techniques may be useful, how to clear Customs and Immigration, and find resources (travel guides, history books, field guides) that might enhance the trip. We enjoy reading the Caribbean Compass and wish you all the best for 2008. Regards, John DeLong S/V Alouette Dear John, Thanks for your letter and for the information from Jotun, Interlux, Pettit, Sigma and SeaHawk, which will be of interest to other Compass readers. Your feedback about Compasss content is appreciated. We would LOVE to supply more and better dataŽ. However, due to the financial constraints of a widely distributed free publication, the Compass has a core editorial staff of exactly two people (myself, full-time, and our Assistant Editor, part-time) to put together the Compass every month. While we do our best to ensure that we dont publish anything untrue, we simply havent got the time or resources to do an in-depth research project on every subject that comes across our desk. (It has been brought to our attention, however, that www.yachtpaint.com/superyacht/PDS/Micron_66.htmsays, Not suitable for immersion in fresh water.Ž Well leave it to Micron 66 users to investigate this further.) The Compass relies on user-generated content „ and you guys do a superb job! All your suggested additions to Ms. Sharps article would certainly be useful to other cruisers, but she was writing an anecdotal story about her own trip, not a comprehensive cruising guide. If anyone would like to offer a follow-up article including more detailed information, it would be most welcome indeed. Along with describing your adventures, we encourage future contributors to include in their articles specific information that will be of use to other cruisers. All the best, Sally „Continued on next page ReadersForum CARRIACOU REAL ESTATELand and houses for sale For full details see our website: www.islandvillas.com or contact Carolyn Alexander atDown Island Ltd e-mail: islander@caribsurf.comTel: (473) 443 8182 Fax: (473) 443 8290We also handle Villa Rentals & Property Management on Carriacou rare +exotic arts + crafts interior designyoung street st. georges grenada tel: 440-2310e-mail: fisher@caribsurf.comJewelry, Wooden-Ware & Hammocks YAMAHAParts Repairs Service Outboard Engines 2HP-250HP Duty-Free Engines for Yachts McIntyreBros. Ltd.TRUE BLUE, ST. GEORGES, GRENADA W.I. PHONE: (473) 444 3944/1555 FAX: (473) 444 2899 email: macford@caribsurf.com TOURS & CRUISES CAR & JEEP RENTAL

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MARCH 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 48UNIQUE IN DOMINICA SITUATED IN THE CITY OF ROSEAUCapitainerie Tel: +7672752851 Fax: +7674487701 VHF: 16 Working CH: 19 info@dominicamarinecenter.com www.dominicamarinecenter.com€ Dinghy Bar € Fuel (Marine Diesel) / Water at the dock € Dinghy dock € Nearby laundry service € Secured moorings € Night security € Ice & Provisioning (Grocery store) € Bakery € Clean restrooms and showers € Garbage disposal € Telephone & internet WIFI connection € Yacht chandlery agents of Budget Marine & soon Mercury Marine € Light boat repair and cleaning € Activity desk (Tours, diving and water sport activities) € Visa / Master Card accepted MID ATLANTIC YACHT SERVICESPT-9900-144 HORTA / FAIALAZORESTEL +351 292 391616 FAX +351 292 391656 mays@mail.telepac.ptwww.midatlanticyachtservices.comProviding all vital Services & Repairs for Trans-Atlantic Yachts Electronics,Chandlery,Rigging Bunkered Fuel (+10,000lt) EU-VAT (15%) Importation „Continued from previous page Dear Compass, While I appreciate that Barbados is a beautiful island and the people very friendly, facilities for visiting yachts are worse now than they were when I first visited the island 30 years ago. In addition, I had to pay some US$90 to clear an almanac (approximately US$35 to purchase) through Customs, despite the fact that the goods were clearly marked In TransitŽ and I had all of the ships papers, etcetera, with me. It was either pay the duty or you cant have the goods. Similarly, while in Grenada, I found that other items had been delivered to Barbados. I arranged for these to be collected by an international courier company and brought to me here. The Post Office, however, refused to release the items until the duty had been paid „ even though they were being brought to me in Grenada, again marked In TransitŽ. The only way I could avoid the duty was if a Barbados Customs official accompanied the packages to the yacht! Barbados is a natural first stop for many transatlantic yachts, but the cumbersome formalities, lack of facilities and weird Customs regulations, mean that even if yachts go there without realizing the problems, they wont stay for long. After all, there are lots of other beautiful islands where one can spend ones money. In 1980 there were some 125 yachts anchored in Carlisle Bay; in 2007 the number was down to 27, most of whom did not intend to stay more than a few days, given the persistent mega-decibel music played by the nightclubs in Carlisle Bay. Kind regards, Linda Lane Thornton (Currently trying to prise my anchor away from Grenada!) Dear Compass , Regarding the Port Louis Marina in Grenada and Peter de Savarys operations around the edges of St. Georges Lagoon and the surrounding area, to any thinking person the whole operation will be a huge bonus to both yachting in Grenada and to the islands as a whole. A 350-berth marina with an additional ten berths for mega-yachts will necessitate a major expansion of the yachting infrastructure to fulfill the needs of the expanded yachting community.This will create jobs and put money into the local economy ofGrenada „ money that stays on the island for a long time, unlike much of the income from cruise ships or foreignowned resorts. Whathasbeen lost? Thirty, or at the most 40 free anchoring spots for visiting yachts in St. Georges Lagoon,which is not that good an anchorage at the best of times.Holding in the lagoon can only be described as bad; you are anchoring in black, gooey SOUP.If you have ever had the misfortune (as I have) to have to dive in the lagoon to untangle anchors, you discover you can shove your arm into the soup up to your shoulder and still not hit any real solid clay or sand. Good holding material is a good five or more feet down. But free anchorage is not really lost. There is plenty of space for even more than the supposedly lost 30 to 40 spots if yachtsmen are just willing to take a slightly longer dinghy ride.Right outside the entrance to the harbour, on the south side of the entrance on St. Marys Bay and Ross Point Shoal, one finds good holding, a white sand bottom and clean, clear water.Since todays yachts almost universally have dinghies with decent-sized outboards, this anchorage is no more that a ten-minute ride to town or any of the dinghy landings inside the lagoon. Admittedly, this anchorage is open to the northwest groundswell, but in an average year it would be a perfect anchorage 300 days a year, uncomfortable 40 days, very uncomfortable 20 days, and five days untenable when boats would have to go into the new marina or the yacht club dock, or head to the south coast. The lagoon is horribly polluted, pollution that predates the arrival of any yachts. [See my article on marine pollution in last months Compass .]The area around the lagoon is called Springs, and the place where the Grenada Yacht Club is located is called The Spout. Water from the natural springs was once pumped to a huge cistern near the Yacht Club site (now filled in, it is under the parking lot). From the cistern a big pipe led out to the point, where ships could come alongside and pick up water.I believe that pollution of the ground water a century or more ago was the reason the cistern and the spout ceased operation. When the whole situation is honestly reviewed, it is obvious that Port Louis Marina is a great benefit to both the yachting community and theisland of Grenada as a whole. Don Street Glandore Ireland Dear Compass, My background is 28 years cruising the Eastern Caribbean and Mexico. I worked on a charter boat out of English Harbor for six months, so I do have some experience with Antigua officials. During the late 1970s and early 80s, Antigua had the worst reputation for unfriendly officials and the most difficult check-ins. By the turn of the century things had become somewhat better. Because of that we started to visit Antigua again. Last year, things turned for the worse. Customs has been okay to work with but Immigration officials have almost gone out of their way to discourage visiting Antigua. I was treated so poorly last year, at Jolly Harbour, that I decided not to go back for Race Week and will not go there at all this season. Until I hear that things have changed for the better, I feel I do not need to support a country that on one hand encourages tourism and the money it brings, and on the other hand allows its officials to be rude and act as if they dont want visitors there. If it werent for tourism, most of them would not have a job. Please sign me, Hoping to be Welcome Again Soon Yacht Visitor Dear Hoping, You dont specify exactly when last year you were treated poorly at Jolly Harbour, although if it was prior to Antigua Sailing Week it was before May. In the early part of 2007, Compass received a number of complaints about unpleasant experiences at Immigration in Antigua. Then the Antigua & Barbuda Marine Association (ABMA) and the Antigua government tackled the issue, including airing it at a May 16th public yachting symposium at which the Prime Minister and Minister of Tourism were present. Since then (aside from the APIS kafuffle late last year), we have received very few complaints from yachts clearing in at Antigua. And, the complaints we have heard from Antigua recently are not about personal treatment, but rather about time-devouring paperwork. Apparently Antigua Immigration requires the arriving skipper to present himself at Immigration, return to the yacht with a form for each person aboard to fill out, then bring all the completed forms back to Immigration to complete the process. In many neighboring countries, the skipper fills out just one form at the Immigration office. The ABMA is currently looking into bringing Antiguas yacht clearance procedures more in line with those of other Caribbean countries. CC „Continued on next pageREMEMBER to tell our advertisers you saw their ad in Compass!

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MARCH 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 49 S C H I P O C A S EGuadeloupe Ð F.W.I Your Caribbean Marine Flea MarketNew & Second-Hand Chandlery Charts … Sails Book Exchange etcƒ Close to Marina Bas-du-Fort Pointe à Pitre Open 6 days a week except Sundays Phone : + 590 (0) 590 831 775 E.mail : anke.beunis@wanadoo.fr Contact : Anke Dutch … English … French … German spoken All the Supplies, Chandlery & Safety Equipment for your Boat Port de Plaisance 97290, Le Marin Tel: +596 74 87 55 Fax: +596 74 85 39email: le-ship-martinique@wanadoo.frOpen 7/7MARTINIQUE SERVICES Mechanics and Electricity Boat Maintenance Engine diagnosis Breakdown service 24/7 Haulout and hull sand blasting Equipment for rent Technical shop GOODS Genuine parts Yanmar & Tohatsu Basic spare parts (filters, impellers, belts)Filtration FLEETGUARD Anodes,Shaft bearings Electric parts, batteries Primers and Antifouling International Various lubricants FOR RENT High pressure cleaners 150/250bars Electrical tools Diverse hand tools Vacuum cleaner for water ScaffoldingTOHATSU LEAVE YOUR BOAT IN SKILLED HANDS Phone: +590 590 907 137 Fax: +590 590 908 651 E-mail: fredmarine@wanadoo.fr Marina Pointe-a-Pitre 97110 Guadeloupe F.W.I.SALES REPAIRS MAINTENANCE MARINE MECHANICS (ALL MAKES) HAUL OUT 24h BREAKDOWN SERVICE „Continued from previous page Dear Compass , We are now in Martinique (mid-February), trying to source parts to replace our rigging. Meantime, here are a few observations at the start of 2008. There are far fewer swooshersŽ (Air Marine wind generators). Those that are here are often considerate enough to anchor in isolated spots. We have only been bothered by one, at a range of over 300 metres, when the wind kicked up and boats started to congregate near the hurricane hole in Marin. Many more boats are showing some form of anchor light. The bad news is that there were five flashing anchor lights visible when we first anchored here. Where and why do people buy these things? The really bad news is that of Nevis. The sheer number of moorings boggles the mind. Also, I read in All at Sea that one takes a mooring there at ones own risk. So if I am required to take a mooring, it fails and I damage another boat, who is liable? What would be the legal position? Sadly, not so many people go to Nevis, so there is unlikely to be the outcry that there was over APIS. Sue Simons S/V Lorensu Dear Sue, We spoke with Spencer Hanley, General Manager of the Nevis Air & Sea Ports Authority (NASPA), who assures Compass readers that NASPA stands behind the strength of the moorings per se and if a yacht should be damaged as a result of a mooring that is proven faulty, NASPA will of course take responsibility. He explained, however, that the need for the at your own riskŽ clause is due to the operator-error type factors which NASPA does not control „ such as how crews tie up to a mooring, what they use to tie up with, etcetera „ but could cause a boat to go adrift and/or damage another. (He gave as an example a crew who chose to let out an excessive length of mooring line, allowing their boat to swing into another moored boat when the wind shifted.) Mr. Hanley adds that the Port Authority welcomes suggestions from the boating public. He can be contacted at shanley_naspa@sisterisles.knor tel (869) 469-2001. CC Dear Compass , I would like to inform the boating public sailing in the Southern Grenadines around Tobago Cays, Mayreau and Union Island, that food prepared by the boatboys on the beaches is not always hygienic for visitors. The same is true of food cooked in private homes and delivered to yachts. These informal enterprises do not carry a health license, but their business is getting bigger and cheaper day by day. People must be aware of the risk of food poisoning and the right hygiene for food handlers. The restaurants, which are regularly inspected and licensed, have been losing business by 50 percent or more for the last two years, despite an increase in the number of yachts sailing in our waters. Please, Im asking the boating public to be aware of this because when someone is poisoned again „ as in the incident last year with food poisoning by the boatboys „ who will they blame it on? This presents a danger to tourism in general. Much of the informal food vending I observe is done by school drop-outs, young boys and ex-convicts who look for an easy way to survive. Will they be looking out for peoples health? I also observe when a boat enters Mayreau or the Tobago Cays, they cannot have their privacy or even have time to put their anchor down peacefully, before hearing cries of Do you like me to cook you lobster?Ž or Do you like me to provide dinner for you and deliver to the boat?Ž It is becoming a hustle. If the yachting companies, especially the Switch yachts, will advise their captains and the people who charter their boats about this matter, it will help us to make a better and cleaner tourism product „ welcoming, hygienic and successful. One more point I want to mention is taking up moorings in the Southern Grenadines. It will be at your own risk. Many yachts have been cast adrift from moorings and many more have reported to me that moorings are not fully maintained. Be careful when taking moorings; it will be safer if you use the anchor also. The people of St. Vincent & the Grenadines in general are very hospitable, loving and kind, and we would like to maintain that standard with the help of the yachting public. Please sign me, Concerned Citizen St. Vincent & the Grenadines Hi, Compass Readers, We have just sailed to Panama via Colombia. We have been doing a website for friends back home, but with other sailors in mind have put in a lot more details of the Colombian coast because not many people go that way. We have included lots of waypoints for tricky anchorages and there are descriptions and some pictures. Our website address is www.sailalga.net. Erik and Foss Alga Dear Compass Readers, We want to hear from YOU! Please include your name, boat name or address, and a way we can contact you (preferably by e-mail) if clarification is required. We do not publish individual consumer complaints or individual regatta results complaints. (Kudos are okay!) We do not publish anonymous letters; however, your name may be withheld from print at your request. Letters may be edited for length, clarity and fair play. Send your letters to: sally@caribbeancompass.com or fax (784) 457-3410 or Compass Publishing Ltd. Readers Forum Box 175BQ Bequia St. Vincent & the Grenadines Our Advertisers Support the Compassƒ Please Support Them. GUY DEAN

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MARCH 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 50 Read in Next Months Compass :Guadeloupe to Montserratƒ by Paddleboard! Sailing Directions: Leaving the Caribbean Cruisers Angel Falls Adventureƒ and more! PICK UP! Ahoy, Compass Readers! When in Bequia, pick up your free monthly copy of the Caribbean Compass at any of these locations (advertisers in this issue appear in bold ): Bequia Bookshop Bequia Post Office Bequia Tourism Assn. Dawns Beach Café De Reef Restaurant Doris Fresh Food Frangipani Hotel Friendship Rose Office Grenadine Sails GYE Lulleys Tackle Macs Pizzeria Max Marine PortHole Restaurant Salty DogRestaurant Tradewinds Cruise Club W&W Supermarket Wallace & Co.So I gets this call from a friend-of-a-friend, ysee, to come out of retirement as a charter skipper, and take these friends of hers on a three-week cruise through the Windward Islands. Well, I was kinda bored sittin here in Southern California, the money looked pretty good, and itd been a good few years since Id cruised em myself, so I says, Why not? Hell, thats my old pond. Itll be good to get updated on whats happenin nowadays in some of these places.Ž So I e-mailed the prospective charterer and got back a list of the places he wanted to go, a list that was quite ridiculous. It included unprotected bays on the windward sides of St. Lucia and St. Vincent, Industry Bay on Bequia, and Sauteurs in Grenada. Since I knew that hed never been to the Windwards before, I asked where he had obtained his list of anchorages. He replied that it wasnt a list of anchorages, but just interesting places that he wanted to visit, and he thought that he might as well do it by boat as by car, and that he had gotten it from Fodors Guide to the Caribbean . Thats when I made my big mistake. I called him, and opened my big mouth, and I sure lived to regret it (not for the first time, I might add). I said, God help me, Well Fodors is mighty fine if youre hitch-hiking across Europe, but for sailing in the Caribbean, go buy Chris Doyles Sailors Guide to the Windward Islands , and get a set of Don Streets ImrayIolaire charts that cover the area, and you can study where you want to go thats feasible at this time o year.Ž Pretty innocent stuff, youd think. Youd be wrong. Well, he bought that book and those charts, and he studied em, and he came up with a most sensible plan. So I flew down to Le Marin in Martinique a few days early and checked out the boat (it was one o these fancy catamarans that are all the rage right now), then met the folks, and off we went, bound for Rodney Bay, St. Lucia. Now Ill say one thing for these catamarans: they will scoot off the wind, so even though we left well after 1:30, we were anchored behind Pigeon Point by 4:30. I did a double-take; who was anchored next to us but the man who wrote the book „ Dr. DementoŽ hisself, in his new cat, Ti Kanot . Some of my guests swam by and met him. It was the beginning of the end. „Continued on next page WHATS ON MY MIND Done In by Dr. D and Squeakyby William Pringle

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MARCH 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 51 CREW V ACANCIES! email: crew@tradewindscruiseclub.comTradeWinds Cruise Club operate a fleet of catamarans across six destinations in the Caribbean. We are the fastest growing charter company, operating TERM CHARTERS, all inclusive, 7 days. We are looking for crew, mainly teams in the form of a Captain and a Chef/Hostess. We prefer couples that are married OR have been living together for at least a year. The nature of the job is such that the better the understanding and teamwork between Captain and Chef the more successful your charters will be. Requirements: Captain with a Skipper’s licence. Chef/Hostess with a basic understanding of cooking. Dive master/ instructor for either the Captain and/or Chef is a plus. We offer full training onsite in the Caribbean. This is a FUN job with great earning potential. If you are willing to work hard and have a positive disposition to life this could be your DREAM job. Anyone with an interest is welcome to apply. If you would like more information about this job or send your CV to us, please use this email address: crew@tradewindscruiseclub.com or by mail to: Bequia Marina, P.O.Box 194BQ, Port Elizabeth, Bequia, St Vincent & the Grenadines Tel. St Vincent +784 457 3407 Tel. St Maarten +599 5510550 Call Ron Cooper (727) 3675004 € www.coopermarine.com CATAMARANS NEW 63 SAIL CAT SEATING FOR 90 PASSENGERSNEW€ 63 x 24 Power Cat USCG Stability test for 149 PAX € Available as single or double deck € Fast delivery € Twin Diesel Base Price $299,000 AVAILABLEFORIMMEDIATEDELIVERY All new Offshore 53 catamaran Twin diesel, 49 passengers, Base price $199,000 ST. THOMAS YACHTSALESCompass Point Marina, 6300 Est. Frydenhoj, Suite 28, St. Thomas, U.S.V.I. 00802 Tel: (340) 779-1660 Fax: (340) 779-2779 yachts@islands.viSail33 1973 Pearson 10M Sloop, refit, new eng. paint,$ 33,500 40 1984 Endeavour sloop, Well maintained, ready to cruise,$ 95,000 49 1979 Transpacific Ketch, Bluewater cruiser, Excellent cond.$199,000 55 1956 Custom Yawl, Excellent charter business, CG cert for 18$250,000Power30 1987 Luhrs Alura, Lobster/Picnic boat, diesel$ 49,500 31 1998 Sea Ray Sundancer, Excellent Condition $ 85,000 43 1990 Marine Trader, A/C, radar, never chartered$129,500 44 1986 Tollycraft MY, Cockpit, twin cats$110,000Call, fax or visit our website for a complete list of boats for sale www.stthomasyachts.com 40 1984 Endeavour Sloop $95,000 49 1979 Transpacific Ketch $199,000 „Continued from previous page So I dinghied over, and Chris and I talked old talkŽ for awhile, and then my charter was on its way south to Soufriere, where our batteries went dead, but thats another story. It was when we left for St. Vincent that the real trouble started. Because Chateaubelair was experiencing boat-attack problems, I suggested that we anchor in Wallilabou instead. No, no,Ž my by-now-informed charterer said, Doyle says that Cumberland Bay is more like the real St. Vincent, so lets go there instead.Ž Hey, I think, no probs, mon; theyre both good anchorages. Whatever he wants: hes the program director. It just got worse from there. I couldnt go ANYWHERE without some well-intentioned but misguided member of the charter party reading aloud to me from the sailing directions, or worse „ descriptions of the lovely boutiques soon to be seen in our port of destination. These were of paramount importance to my guests, and apparently of some interest to Chris as well, since he goes to great lengths describing their manifest delights. Nonetheless, they diminish in my personal interest when Im trying to see the damn red buoy in the fading light coming into an anchorage where half the idiots are without anchor lights, a few of them probably dragging anchor, and mebbe drunk to boot. Doyle says youre supposed to be steering 145 degrees,Ž they would declare. Are you steering 145 degrees?Ž It was useless to tell them that were coming into the anchorage from the other direction, or that Ive anchored in this very place scores of times. Oh, yes,Ž I tell em, Im steering 145 all right.Ž For all they know, Im steering 500 degrees; I could tell em that, and theyd believe me. But they had to read to me OUT LOUD all about the Young Island Cut, and the many amenities ashore, despite my assurances that I knew the place well, my eldest son having been BORN there, for the love o Ned. And about the entrance to Admiralty Bay, Steer clear of Devils Table!Ž theyd shout. And the Montezuma Shoal west of Mustique, where I had the horror of seeing Lord Jim go aground so long ago. Then they started in with Squeaky. Hey, that bay where you want to anchor tonight,Ž (Glossy Bay, Canouan) the Imray-Iolaire chart shows only half an anchor!Ž theyd declaim. Jeeze Louise,Ž I thought, If Ida known that ol Don only gave this place a half an anchor, I wouldnta anchored here for the last 36 years!Ž It was a beautiful calm night, with the moon, a few days short of full, shinin on the water, and not another boat in sight. They hated it. Squeaky had only given it half an anchor. Hell, knowing him, he was just tryin to save money on ink. And so it went. They read to me, in a high nasal pitch, about the approaches to the Tobago Cays; the entrance to Clifton Harbour in Union Island; Windward, Carriacou (where I help sponsor a regatta); and Tyrrel Bay (where I lived for four years). Take a bearing on the Sister Rocks, and come straight into the harbour! Are you taking a bearing on the Sister Rocks?!?Ž By then, I could have strangled Chris, and Squeaky as well. Is this any way to treat an old friend and shipmate, to torture him with prose and half-anchors? I contemplated throwing both book and charts overboard, but it would have done no good; my guests were hooked, addicted, and would only have bought others to replace them, further enriching those very individuals that I wished to keelhaul. Useless to show them that the RayMarine GPS plot shows us anchored 200 meters inland „ indeed, part way up one of the Pitons „ when were demonstrably still floating nicely to an offshore mooring. The map is never wrong, the book is always right, and we need TO READ IT TO YOU IN A LOUD VOICE. Now I remember why I retired from the charter biz.

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MARCH 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 52 Bequia Antigua Grenada St Maarten continued on next page Curaao Martinique Martinique Guadeloupe Grenada Caribbean Compass Market Place SAILMAKING, RIGGING, ELECTRONICS Grenada Marine € Spice Island Marine Tel/Fax (473) 439-4495 turbsail@spiceisle.com LE MARIN, MARTINIQUE € GRENADAwww.caraibe-greement.fr cgmar@wanadoo.frPhone: +(596) 596 74 8033 Cell: (596) 696 27 66 05 R I G G I N GS H I P C H A N D L E R Boatyard Le Marin Martinique Phone (+596) 596 74 77 70 carenantilles.marin@wanadoo.fr www.carenantilles.com Centre de Carenage 97290 Le MarinTel: +596 (0) 596 74 74 80 Fax: +596 (0) 596 74 79 16 carene.shop@wanadoo.fr THE SPECIALIST FOR BOAT MAINTENANCE IN MARTINIQUE For a safe berthÉSERU BOCA MARINA We sell and service Yamaha enginesstbarba@attglobal.net www.santabarbaraplantation.com TechNick Ltd.Engineering, fabrication and welding. Fabrication and repair of stainless steel and aluminium items. Nick Williams, Manager Tel: (473) 536-1560/435-7887 S.I.M.S. Boatyard, True Blue, Grenada technick@spiceisle.com Cruising RallyMarch 29 April 20, 2008e-mail: contact@transcaraibes.com www.transcaraibes.com Tel: + 590 (0) 690 494 590 TRANSCARAIBES 2008Guaeloupe to Cuba Flyingfish Ventures Ltd Marine Surveyors, Grenada Marine Survey throughout the CaribbeanPURCHASE – INSURANCE DAMAGEBob GoodchildAccredited Marine Surveyor Society of Accredited Marine Surveyors RYAOcean Yachtmaster (Commercial) Accreditation American Boat and Yacht CouncilTel:Grenada (+1 473) 407 4388 surveyor@flyingfishventures.com Voiles AssistanceDidier and MariaLE MARIN/MARTINIQUESails & Canvas (repairs & fabrication) located at Carenantilles dockyardOpen Monday to Friday 8-12am 2-6pm Saturday by appointment tel/fax: (596) 596 74 88 32 e-mail: didier-et-maria@wanadoo.fr Packages Pick Ð up call: + (599) 553-3850 / + (590) 690-222473 Int.001-3057042314 E-mail:ericb@megatropic.comCIRExpress COURIER SERVICES St.Maarten/ St.Martin,collect and deliver door to doorS S S S t t t t . . . . M M M M a a a a a a a a r r r r t t t t e e e e n n n n

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MARCH 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 53 Caribbean Compass Market Place Caribbean-wide Caribbean-wide To advertise in Caribbean Compass Market Place, see list of island agents on page 4 or contact Tom at (784) 457 3409 € tom@caribbeancompass.com Marine Distributors www.IslandWaterWorld.com sales@IslandWaterWorld.com St Thomas, St Maarten, St Lucia, Grenada P: 599-544-5310 F: 599-544-3299 BARGE CAPTAINRequired for established marine construction company. Must have the ability to manage and run 120 ft. live aboard barge. Flexibility to work in all regions of the Caribbean necessary. Commitment and reliability a must. Previous experience an asset. Our company has over 20 years in experience. If you would like to join our team contact: Tony Cooper at 246 230-2158 or E-mail tonycooper@marencoltd.com Barefoot Yacht Charters & Marine Centre Blue Lagoon, St VincentBareboats Ð Fully Crewed Yachts Ð ASA Sailing School Ð Full Service Marine Centre1-784-456-9526 / 9334 barebum@caribsurf.com www.barefootyachts.com Trinidad Trinidad St Vincent THIS COULD BE YOURMARKET PLACE AD Book it now: tom@caribbeancompass.comor contact your local island agent

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MARCH 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 54 Admiral Yacht InsuranceUK37 Anjo InsuranceAntigua34 Antigua Classic RegattaAntigua17 Art FabrikGrenada47 B & C Fuel DockPetite Martinique36 Bahia Redonda MarinaVenezuela32 Barefoot Yacht ChartersSt. Vincent18 Basils BarMustique45 Bequia Marine CenterBequia9 Bogles Round HouseCarriacou34 Budget MarineSint Maarten2 BVI Yacht SalesTortola50 By DesignAntigua43 Camper & NicholsonsGrenada15 Captain GourmetUnion Island46 Caraibe GreementMartinique11 Caraibe YachtsGuadeloupe49 CarenantillesMartinique12 Carene ShopMartinique27 Chris Doyle's GuidesCaribbean8 Cooper MarineUSA51 Corea's Food Store MustiqueMustique45 Curaçao MarineCuraçao22 Diesel OutfittersSt. Maarten36 Discovery MarigotSt.Lucia14 Dockwise Yacht Transport Martinique31 Dominica Marine CenterDominica48 Dopco Travel Grenada33 Doris Fresh FoodBequia45 Douglas Yacht ServicesMartinique24 Down Island Real EstateCarriacou47 Doyle Offshore SailsTortola3 Echo Marine Jotun SpecialTrinidad5 Errol Flynn MarinaJamaica17 Falmouth Harbour MarinaAntigua16 Fernando's HideawayBequia46 Food FairGrenada46 Frangipani HotelBequia37 Fred MarineGuadeloupe49 Friendship RoseBequia42 Gourmet FoodsSt. Vincent44 Grenada MarineGrenada28 Grenadine Island VillasBequia30 Grenadines SailsBequia9 GRPro-CleanMartinique48 Horizon Yacht ManagementTortola13 Iolaire EnterprisesUK 25/43 Island Dreams Yacht ServicesGrenada47 Island Water WorldSint Maarten56 Jack's BarBequia44 Johnson HardwareSt. Lucia26 Jones MaritimeSt. Croix37 KP MarineSt. Vincent37 Lagoon Marina HotelSt. Vincent35 LagoonievilleSt. Thomas41 Le ShipMartinique49 LIATCaribbean25 Lulley's TackleBequia9 Mac's PizzaBequia46 MarencoBarbados53 McIntyre Bros. LtdGrenada47 Mid Atlantic Yacht ServicesAzores48 NavimcaVenezuela43 Northern Lights GeneratorsTortola6 Peake Yacht BrokerageTrinidad51 Perkins EnginesTortola10 Petit St. VincentPSV40 Ponton du BakouaMartinique27 Porthole RestaurantBequia46 Prickly Bay MarinaGrenada8 Renaissance MarinaAruba21 Salty Dog Sports BarBequia45 Santa Barbara ResortsCuraçao23 Schip-O-CaseGuadeloupe49 Sea and SailGuadeloupe48 Sea ServicesMartinique19 Sevenstar Yacht TransportUK55 Shelter Bay MarinaPanama20 Silver DivingCarriacou36 Simpson Bay MarinaSt. Maarten24 Soper's Hole MarinaTortola38 Spice Island MarineGrenada29 St. Thomas Yacht SalesSt. Thomas51 SuperwindGermany50 SVG AirSt. Vincent42 Tikal Arts & CraftsGrenada47 Trade Winds CruisingBequia51 True Blue BayGrenada28 Turbulence SailsGrenada29 Tyrrel Bay Yacht HauloutCarriacou8 VemascaVenezuela32 Virgin Gorda Yacht HarbourVirgin Gorda35 Voiles AssistanceMartinique49 VolvoMarinique7 Wallace & CoBequia9 Wallilabou AnchorageSt. Vincent36 Perkins EnginesTortola8 XanaduVenezuela32 Yacht Shipping Ltd.UK33 ADVERTISERS INDEX ADVERTISERS INDEX ADVERTISERS INDEX ADVERTISERS INDEX ADVERTISERLOCATIONPG# ADVERTISERLOCATION PG# ADVERTISERLOCATION PG# ADVERTISERLOCATION PG#CASIMIR HOFFMANN CLASSIFIEDS COAST 34 , 1984, major refit and upgrades in '05 including new up sized rig, all electronics, separate diesel alternator/water-maker, batteries, fridge/freezer, interior, ground tackle, cockpit cushions/covers,radar/arch, dinghy/davits, far too much to list, must be seen, hauled in Antigua, well below current survey, asking 119,000 Canadian, for specs/pictures E-mail bentleysrolls@yahoo.ca GRAAL 49 CATAMARAN 4 guest cabins w/heads, gourmet galley up, large salon w/settee and bar area comfortably accomodates 8 persons, crew cabin. Located Grenada $275,000 info and photos www.graall990.fr VENUS 46, 1984 KETCH fiberglass, gc, new engine, very well equipped, excellent live aboard and cruiser US$199,000, lying St. Lucia. For more info and pictures Tel (596)696907429 E-mail venus46@live.com 1986 Beneteau 51 Nice condition, plenty of new upgrades, ready to sail, located Palm Island, SVG. Info on www.artandsea.com. Tel: (784) 458-8829 E-mail: palmdoc@caribsurf.com PEARSON 30' BUILT 1973 , new Yanmar 2GM20, new Awlgrip, 2 jibs, 2 mains, spinnaker, TV, CD, wheel steering, lots more. Good condition, OFFERSPLEASE! E-mail nicola111@bequia.net SUPER ATLANTA VIKING 27' Built England 1993, strong and comfortable, good condition, lying Margarita US$20,000 E-mail mashagruber@hotmail.com 2001 LAGOON 43 POWER CAT excellent condition, loaded electronics, 12'x21' upper deck w/full cover, 9 x 170w solar panels, 16 Trojan batteries, new inflatable dinghy w/10hp Mercury. US$329,000 Tel (868) 312-2993 E-mail zazenzafaun@hotmail.com WATKINS 27 SLOOP 1979 Yanmar diesel, shoal draft, sleeps 5 with V-berth, settee and dbl quarter berth, 6'2" headroom. Lying St. Vincent. Contact Gildas Courrier Tel (784) 432-1767 E-mail laureetgildas@yahoo.frFAMOUS POTATOES 2005 Admiral 38 Catamaran. For Sale Summer 2008. You can follow her adventure now atweb.mac.com/famouspotatoes2PACIFIC SEACRAFT CREALOCK 34 highly regarded blue water cruiser US$75K Details on www.petethenomad.com Tel (473) 415-1026MASTS TURBULENCE GRENADAhas 3 masts suitable for mono/multihulls. 16-17 & 22 meters. Tel (473) 439-4495/415-8271 E-mail turbsail@spiceisle.com AVON 11FT JET SKI DINGHY 84hp, 2 years old. US$10,000 OBO E-mail info@FirstMateLtd.com FRIENDSHIP BAY, BEQUIA Lovely 1250 sq ft. cottage, 100 yards from beach. 2 master bedrooms, 1 guest bedroom, full kitchen, laundry, level with road no stairs! 12,558 sq ft of land, fenced with mature fruit trees. US$320,000, Term rental available. E-mail jocelyne.gautier@wanadoo.fr CARRIACOU, ONE ACRE LOTS and multi acre tracts. Great views overlooking Southern Grenadines and Tyrrel Bay www.caribtrace.com BEQUIA PROPERTIES A classic Belmont villa in 1 acre 2,000,000US, The Village Apartments Business 1,890,000US, Admiralty Bay 900,000US, Spring Villa 1,750,000US LowerBay 1.600,000US, Friendship 320,000US, Moonhole 750,000US, relax & enjoy Bequia life. Tel (784) 455 0969E-mail grenadinevillas@mac.com www.grenadinevillas.com N.W. GRENADA Recently refurbished 3 bedroom house on 1/4 acre land 300 yds from sea overlooking Crayfish Bay, quiet location, good anchorage, US$200,000 Tel (473) 442-1897 BEQUIA , Lower Bay, Bells Point, House and Land. Serious buyers only. Sale by owner. Call (784) 456 4963 after 6pm. E-mail lulleym@vincysurf.com PUERTO LA CRUZ, VENZ. INSURANCE SURVEYS, electrical problems and yacht deliveries. Tel Cris Robinson (58) 416-3824187 E-mail crobinson@telcel.net.ve BEQUIA HOMEMADE BREADS & Cakes made fresh every day! Wholewheat, multigrain, banana bread, herbs & flax, butter crescents. To place order Tel (784) 457-3527/4333008 E-mail bequiasweetiepie@yahoo.com Orders are delivered FREENIMRODS RUM SHOP, GRENADAEggs, bread, cheese, ice on sale. Taxi service available, propane tank fill-up, personal laundry service. Happy Hour every day from 56pm Moonlight party every full moon. VHF 16 BEQUIA BEQUIA CANVAS Interior/exterior/customized canvas specialist Tel (784) 457-3291 E-mail beqcan@caribsurf.com CARIBBEAN VIRTUAL OFFICE providing concierge, catering, errand services, mail management and forwarding, bill payment, purchasing, sourcing, reservations and a host of other services. Tel (473) 404-2707ST. VINCENT NZIMBU ARTS & CRAFTS for high quality indigenous banana craft and djembe drum Tel (784) 457-1677/5312897 www.nzimbu-browne.com E-mail nzimbu2000@yahoo.com UNDERWATER DIVING SERVICES salvage/emergency/moorings/li ft bags. All underwater services Tel (473) 537-9193/538-4608 E-mail fashionboat@yahoo.fr WATERMAKERS Complete systems, membranes, spares and service available at Curacao and Puerto La Cruz, Venezuela. Check our prices at www.watercraftwatermaker.comIn PLC Tel (58) 416-3824187 YACHT CHARTER BUSINESS BVI Turnkey, long term, profitable Sail & SCUBA business with broad Trade License, all operating permits and room to expand. This is a limited company that allows all assets to be transferred by shares. Sale includes a large 12 Pax multihull which averages 20 to 30-week long charters per year with an approx turnover of $400,000. In Dec '07 boat was surveyed at above average condition structurally and cosmetically. This is an exceptional opportunity to establish yourself in the charter capital of the world. Asking price $600,000 www.charteryachtsforsaleonline.com SERVICE ADMINISTRATOR needed for busy Marine Industrial Service business in Road Town, Tortola, BVI. Must have excellent organizational skills, ability to write service reports and prepare warranty claims, strong communicational skills, project management and cost accounting skills, and the ability to handle quality control issues. Mechanical background with marine experience preferred. Fax CV (284) 494-6972 E-mail tom@partsandpower.com TORTOLA ARAGORNS STUDIO looking for 2 employees.Welder/Workshop manager and shop assistant required at our busy Art Studio in Trellis Bay, BVI.Ideal candidates are a couple with artistic inclination living on their own boat and looking for shore side employment in a US$ economy. Still interested to hear from a lone welder! Info contact Aragorn Tel (284) 495-1849 E-mail dreadeye@surfbvi.com MARINE TECHNICIAN WANTED IMMEDIATELY Respected Marine Engineering Co, in Grenada seeking all around experienced technician for diesel, electrical, electronics, water makers & refrigeration. Ideal for cruiser or independent tech looking for the stability of an established company in Grenada CV to; E-mail enzamarine@caribsurf.com Tel (473) 439-2049EC$1/US 40¢ per word … include name, address and numbers in count. Line drawings/photos accompanying classifieds are EC$20/US$8. CLASSIFIED ADS WANTED BUSINESS FOR SALE SERVICES PROPERTY FOR SALE MISC. FOR SALE BOATS FOR SALE

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MARCH 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 55 IJMUIDEN € SOUTHAMPTON € GIBRALTAR € MALLORCA € FORT LAUDERDALE € CARIBBEANYACHT TRANSPORT OVER SEVEN SEAS www.sevenstar.nl headoffice tel; +31 20 4488590 € uk representative tel; +44 23 80223671 Yacht transport is an art May 10-20 2008 Tortola > Southampton Tortola > Palma & La Spezia 071015-01B Sevenstar ad CC.indd 1 19-10-2007 15:39:50

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Published by Compass Publishing Limited, St. Vincent & the Grenadines, and printed by Trinidad Publishing Company Limited