Citation
Caribbean Compass

Material Information

Title:
Caribbean Compass the Caribbean's monthly look at sea & shore
Place of Publication:
Bequia St. Vincent and the Grenadines
Publisher:
Compass Pub.
Publication Date:
Copyright Date:
2009
Frequency:
Monthly
regular
Language:
English
Physical Description:
v. : ill. ; 35 cm.

Subjects

Subjects / Keywords:
Boats and boating -- Periodicals -- Caribbean Area ( lcsh )
Yachting -- Periodicals -- Caribbean Area ( lcsh )
Genre:
serial ( sobekcm )
periodical ( marcgt )
Spatial Coverage:
Saint Vincent and the Grenadines

Record Information

Source Institution:
University of Florida
Holding Location:
University of Florida
Rights Management:
Copyright Compass Pub. Permission granted to University of Florida to digitize and display this item for non-profit research and educational purposes. Any reuse of this item in excess of fair use or other copyright exemptions requires permission of the copyright holder.
Resource Identifier:
54085008 ( OCLC )
1605-1998 ( ISSN )

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This item has the following downloads:


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This all new
version of
the Race
Master is
now fully
compatible
with the whole Micronet
Wireless system.

On it's own it is a powerful
tactical compass for sports and
keel boats. Big twin displays are
easy to read on either tack. It
combines digital heading with a
unique and sensitive header/lift
indicator.


VHF

It's not just another marine
radio What makes Icom's new
IC-M88 so special?
* Unparalleled battery life &
power
* Military ruggedness
* Small size that fits well
in hand

Features:
* 5 Watts of power
* Long-lasting 1700 mAh Li-ion
battery allows up to 24 hours of
operation
* Up to 22 free channels reserved
for Land Mobile (commercial)
use
* 4-Step battery level indicator
* Swivel belt clip included


This rope is
designed to
give excellent
abrasion
resistance
and combine
light-
weight,
high strength and very low
stretch.

Ideal for halyards, sheets, guys,
runners, control lines, kicking
straps and anywhere else where
weight and strength are
important.

* Available in different colors.


Made from
a hard-
wearing
water-
repellent
ripstop
material.
This stylish
winch handle bag will look great
on any boat.

* Designed to hold 1-2 winch
handles at a time.

This pocket can be used to keep
a number of different items out of
harms way, such as a handheld
GPS, radio or even keys.


CARTIG BO EAN CR ANO GED EF I ES




BUDGET MARINE t5
ANTIOUA BONAIRE CURACAO GRENADA ST. MAARTEN ST. MARTIN ST. THOMAS TRINIDAD


I S Cari bbean's LeaSdi ng Chandlery .wbudgetma e.


"ons in the C









For those who demand the very best,


Doyle Caribbean's 5/50


Construction.



5 years-


Doyle Sailmakers Doyle Sailmakers
Road Reef Marina 6 Crossroads
Tortola St. Philip
Tel: (284) 494 2569 Fax: (284) 494 2034 Tel: (246) 423 4600 Fax: (246) 423 4499
E-mail: bob@doylecaribbean cor E-mail: andy@doylecaribbean.com


Amtfivr BSr 8ta
Star anne
KJ" Ha'thiL.
Grnadw
Ibtrefwce Lid.
Spce Island Boatyan
StLLuc*a
The Sal Lot, St Lucia
Corner 6ar


Ytcthind Ses sd Model Boets
Port Elizabett

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Pedro Migue Soat Co b

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Route De Sandy Grout
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KoWtentra 14
NeltrIwld mn lces
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St ViOcnt
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Dminica
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Chaguaranas













MPASS


The Caribbean's Monthly Look at Sea & Shore
www.caribbeancompass.com



SBombs Away!
I ] Visiting Vieques..................... 24


Small Island...
...big launching! ....................17

Labor of Love
Plastic classic renewed ..........18







Getting Fresh
A jungle river cruise ..............20


'Accidental' Cruiser
Why he loves Trinidad ...........30

Boat Buddies
Camaraderie, community ......32


I DEPARTMENT


Business Briefs.....................8.
Eco-News.............................. 10
Regatta News.......................14
Different Boats .....................16
Destinations ..........................20
All Ashore............................26
Meridian Passage ...............32
Sailors' Horoscope .............34
Island Poets ..........................34
Cruising Crossword ...............35


Tel: (784) 4573409, Fax: (784) 4573410,
compass@caribsurf.com
www.caribbeancompass.com
Editor...........................................Sally Erdle
sally@carlbbeancompass.com
Assistant Editor...................Elaine Ollivierre
jsprat@caribsurf.com
Advertising & Distribution........Tom Hopman
tom@caribbeancompass.com
Art, Design & Production......Wilfred Dederer
wlde@caribbeancompass.com
Accounting ............................Debra Davis
debra@carlbbeancompass.com
Compass Agents by Island:





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Cartoons .............................. 35
Cruising Kids' Corner............36
Dolly's Deep Secrets.............36
Book Reviews ......................37
Cooking withCruisers............41
Readers' Forum ..................44
What's On My Mind ..............49
Caribbean Marketplace......52
Classified Ads......................54
Advertisers' Index ................54


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ISSN 1605 1998


C


FEBRUARY
2 -4 Martinique Carnival Regatta. Club Nautique Le Neptune (CNN),
info@clubnautiqueleneptune.com, www.clubnautiqueleneptune.com
3 6 Carnival Monday and Tuesday in most Dutch and French islands,
Puerto Rico, Dominica, Carriacou, Trinidad & Tobago, Venezuela,
and other places
7 Independence Day. Public holiday in Grenada
9 10 St. Croix International Regatta. St. Croix Yacht Club (SCYC),
www.stcroixyc.com
13- 17 Casa de Campo Regatta, Dominican Republic.
www.casadecamporegatta.com
15 17 30th Annual Sweethearts of the Caribbean and 26th Annual Classic
Yacht Regatta, Tortola. West End Yacht Club (WEYC), mvh@surfbvi.com,
www.weyc.net
17 Sailors' and Landlubbers' Auction, Bequia. (784) 457-3047
18 Presidents' Day. Public holiday in Puerto Rico and USVI
20 Lunar Eclipse visible throughout the Caribbean
21 FULL MOON
21 24 Grenada Classic Yacht Regatta. www.ClassicRegatta.com
22 Independence Day. Public holiday in St. Lucia. Yacht races
24 Bonaire International Fishing Tournament. www.infobonaire.com
27 Independence Day. Public holiday in Dominican Republic
TBA Non-Stop Around Martinique Race. CNN
TBA Semaine Nautique Schoelcher, Martinique.
Schoelcher.Nautique@wanadoo.fr



MARCH
1 Spanish Town Fishermen's Jamboree and 12th Annual
Wahoo Tournament, BVI
3 H. Lavitty Stoute's Birthday (celebrated). Public holiday in BVI
6 Budget Marine Commodore's Cup, St. Maarten.
www.heinekenregatta.com
6 9 28th St. Maarten Heineken Regatta. www.heinekenregatta.com
6-9 13th Annual Tobago Game Fishing Tournament. www.tgft.com
7 9 Blues & Rhythms Festival, St. Vincent. www.svgtourism.com
7 10 1 1th Annual Dark and Stormy Regatta, BVI. WEYC
8 International Women's Day
9 23 6th Annual St. John Blues Festival. www.stjohnbluesfestival.com
10 Commonwealth Day. Public holiday in some places
14 National Heroes Day. Public holiday in St. Vincent & the Grenadines
14 16 Culebra Heineken International Regatta and Culebra International
Dinghy Regatta, Puerto Rico. www.culebrainternationalregatta.com
15- 16 Le Troph6e Gardel Race, Guadeloupe. www.Trophee-gardel.com
17 St. Patrick's Day. Public holiday in Montserrat;
festival in St. Patrick's, Grenada
20 Holy Thursday. Public holiday in USVI
20 International Earth Day. Beach and dive clean-ups in many places
20 24 Bequia Easter Regatta. www.begos.com/easterregatta
20 24 Easterval, Union Island, St. Vincent Grenadines. melissaj@vincysurf.com
21 FULL MOON
21 Good Friday. Public holiday in many places
21 23 Grenada Round-the-Island Easter Race. www.aroundgrenada.com
22 Emancipation Day. Public holiday in Puerto Rico
24 25 Goat and Crab Races, Mt. Pleasant and Buccoo Village, Tobago
23 Easter Sunday
23 Nevis to St. Kitts Cross-Channel Swim
24 Easter Monday. Public holiday in many places
27 30 St. Barths Bucket Race. www.newportbucket.com/StBarthslndex.htm
28 30 35th International Rolex Regatta, St. Thomas, USVI.
www.rolexcupregatta.com
29 Apr 20 Transcaraibes Rally, Guadeloupe to Cuba. www.transcaraibes.com
30 Spiritual Baptist Liberation Day. Public holiday in Trinidad & Tobago
31 Apr 6 BVI Spring Regatta & Sailing Festival. www.bvispringregatta.org
TBA Carlisle Bay Cruise Weekend, Antigua. Antigua Yacht Club (AYC),
www.antiguayachtclub.com
TBA Antigua Laser Open. AYC
TBA Antigua Mega Yacht Challenge. AYC
All information was correct to the best of our knowledge
at the time this issue of Compass went to press but plans change, so please
contact event organizers directly for confirmation.
If you would like a nautical or tourism event listed FREE in our calendar,
please send the name and date(s) of the event and the name and
contact information of the organizing body to sally@caribbeancompass. com




We're on the Web!
www.caribbeancompass.com


C MPASS


Cover: Aboard the 100 foot Swan Virago
at Antigua's Superyacht Cup 2007 "Some of the best racing ever!"


I C R B E N










Info





New Fees for St. Maarten
New bridge fees as amended by St. Maarten's Island Council went into effect as
of January 1st. The hike in fees is intended to provide Simpson Bay Lagoon Authority
Corporation (SLAC) with increased revenue to make necessary investments in, for
example, the Simpson Bay Bridge.
The new departure fees, commonly called bridge fees, for cruise ships (mega-
yachts) per one-week stay or part thereof range from 18 Netherlands Antilles florins
(NAf.) for vessels with a length of nine meters or more but fewer than 14 meters, to
NAf. 153 for vessels with a length of 36 meters or more. US$1.00=NAf 1.79.
The new harbor fees that are due for passenger ships or yachts per one-week stay
or part thereof will range from NAf. 36 for vessels with a length of 8 meters or more
but fewer than 13 meters, to NAf. 324 for vessels with a length of 38 meters or more
but fewer than 43 meters.
Singlehander Scores a First
A British sailor celebrated the New Year by becoming the first European to have
both flown solo and sailed single-handed across the Atlantic.
Tristan Gooley, 34, arrived at Marigot Bay, St. Lucia, on the afternoon of the 1st of
January in a 32-foot yacht called Golden Eye after 26 days at sea alone. In May
2007 he flew from Goose Bay, Canada to Oxford, England in a single-engine
Cessna Caravan, re-fueling in Greenland, Iceland and Scotland during the epic
two-day flight.
The only other person to have achieved both is the legendary American naviga-
tor, Steve Fossett, who is still missing after a flight in Nevada in September 2007.
Tristan is using his achievements to raise awareness of prostate cancer. He says, "Men
are notoriously bad at discussing their health issues. If my efforts lead to one more per-
son learning a little about the disease of prostate cancer, it will have been worthwhile.
"It has been a difficult and unusual challenge but that has been a large part of


___________________________________________________________________________ I


SJOTUN


Singlehander Tistan Gooley with St. Lucian Member of Parliament Robert Lewis
the attraction. I like the fact that more people have walked on the moon than
tackled the Atlantic by air and sea alone."
Eight Bells
Buddy Stockwell reports: On December 16, 2007, the cruising community of
Bonaire lost a wonderful, talented and trusted friend. Edward Alton Ridley, known to
all as "Chile", took his own life at the age of 58. Chile was born in Valentine, Texas,
and had battled the disease of depression all of his life. He is survived by his wife,
Linda Ridley of Marfa, Texas.
The Ridleys began their cruising life aboard their Valiant 42, Natural Selection, by
departing Galveston in 1998 and sailing to St. Petersburg, Florida, where their boat
was part of the 1998 boat show there. Then, they cruised down the Eastern
Caribbean chain, arriving in Bonaire five years later on Valentine's Day of 2003. As
avid scuba divers, both Chile and Linda fell in love with Bonaire and remained there
as residents living aboard Natural Selection. Chile was manager of Capture Photo
and also worked as a dive master.
Most important, Chile was an indispensable volunteer for environmental organiza-
tions such as REEF, STINAPA and the Bonaire Sea Turtle Conservation Project. Chile
completed 300 Level 5 surveys for REEF, collected hundreds of amazing underwater
images on film, and completed almost 2,000 dives. Chile's "True Grit" Texas spirit,
fine character, and exceptional skills combined to make him an unflagging cham-
pion of the environment like no other.
Continued on next page


SeaQueen &

SeaQuantum


WELCOME TO THE NEW WORLD OF TBT-FREE ANTIFOULINGS!

Jotun SeaQueen offers the BEST in tin free self polishing onlyAntifoulings and replaces the famous
Seamate HB 99 at the same competitive price. Various Tests in the extreme fouling conditions of the Caribbean have
confirmed its excellent value.

Jotun SeaQuantum represents the ULTIMATE development in hydrolysing but tin free
Antifouling paints, exceeding the self-polishing, self-smoothing and predictable Antifouling performance previously
only found in the now completely banned TBT paints. SeaQuantum is the result of 8 years of combined research of
Jotun Paints and the Chemical Giants Nippon and BASF. This bottom paint is the industry's state of the art solution
for an environmentally acceptable paint of highest performance standards.
SeaQuantum is manufactured worldwide in 34 factories.
Several tests on sailboats over the past 18 months have shown better results than
the repeated test winner and #1 choice of Caribbean cruisers, Jotun Seamate HB 99.

"SeaQuantum is most probably the world's best self-smoothing, self-
polishing Antifouling and a truly multi-seasonal bottom paint."
Technical Information and Dealer Inquiries:
Jotun Echo Marine Trinidad Tel: + 868- 634-2015 e-mail: jotun@echo-marine.com



d ad m JOTU







... . i .. ,,i . . .. ,
C i .. :, .: 11., 1 :, ,i- i.1. :.- : i, I: a gentle man, always willing to lend a hand and
always the first to volunteer. He will be missed by all who knew him, including the
beautiful sea creatures of Bonaire that he loved so well and fought so hard to protect.
The family asks that in lieu of cards or flowers, donations should be made in his name to
support the Sea Turtle Conservation Project by visiting https://www.supportbonaire.org.

Yachtsman's Family Establishes Charity Trust
The family of Irish yachtsman John Thompson, who died as the result of head
injuries received in a fall aboard his yacht while sailing to the Caribbean during the
2007 Atlantic Rally for Cruisers, is setting up a charity organ-transplant network in
Barbados in his memory.
Thompson carried a card as a donor for all his major organs, but when he died in
a Barbados hospital after being transferred there from his yacht by a cruise ship, his
family discovered there were no facilities in the area for conducting transplants.
Donations can be made by cheque payable to J.D. Thompson Donation
Account, c/o Charles Stewart, Stewarts Solicitors, 3 Regent Street, Newtownards,
BT23 4AB UK.
Hotspots
While the majority of harbors remain trouble-free, cruisers are being warned to
avoid certain anchorages until it has been confirmed that crimes against yachts in
those areas have stopped.
According to the January 11, 2008, edition of The Searchlight newspaper of St.
Vincent, a spate of yacht robberies in Chateaubelair on that island's north leeward
coast has caused the authorities to increase the number of law enforcement offi-
cers in the area. Between December 10th and 26th, 2007, five yachts anchored
there were known to have been robbed by masked men armed with knives, cut-
lasses and, in some cases, guns. Police Commissioner Keith Miller told Searchlight
that although plans were already in place to install a Rapid Response Unit in
Chateaubelair, a three-member Criminal Investigation Department unit will also be
stationed in the area and there will be increased water patrols by the coast guard.
Investigations are ongoing.
According to the Venezuelan maritime safety organization ONSA, on January 15th
the French catamaran Ti Ve, with four people aboard, was boarded and robbed
by five men carrying firearms at Robledal, Isla Margarita. One of the crew was seri-
ously injured. Reports were made to local authorities and the French Consulate.
Investigations are ongoing.
For updated information on yacht-crime reports in the Caribbean visit
www.safetyandsecuritynetcom.
On-Line Maritime Discussion Forum
Speaking of ONSA, the Venezuelan maritime safety organization has recently
announced a new web platform for its Discussion Forums, at
www.onsa.org.ve/comunidad/forum/
The moderator invites cruisers to register and participate on the website's English
Speaking Section for Caribbean Cruisers and English-speaking users:
www.onsa.org.ve/comunidad/forum/viewforum.php?f=16. There you can comment on
and discuss any issues related to life at sea: maritime safety, tourism, incidents, etcetera.
For more information contact info@onsa org. ve.


Leewards Updates
Herbert Hirsch reports: The following observations were made during a cruise
between December 12th, 2007 and January 5th, 2008, aboard a Lagoon 38 from
Corail Caraib.
CLEARANCE
In Guadeloupe, the Capitainerie at Marina Bas du Fort faxed my clearance form to
Point-d-Pitre for a nominal fee; within half an hour the fax was returned. I checked out
to Dominica via Marie Galante. At lies des Saintes, on the back side of the Mairie, I
checked in and out at the same time, bound to Antigua via Deshaies; again the filled
form was faxed to Point-d-Pitre and answered within half an hour. No charges.
At Portsmouth, Dominica, I found that no visa was required for Austrian citizens
(contrary to the tourism board's website). Checking in and out at the same time








The waters around

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was uncomplicated, with a stay of possibly two weeks. As it was a holiday
(Christmas Day), I paid an overtime fee of US$40. The entire procedure took ten
minutes. Note: Clearance from last port of call is absolutely required. (For a tour
guide in Dominica we had Martin Carriere, alias Providence. He did really a great
job: punctual, very friendly and extraordinarily competent.)
I arrived at Customs in English Harbour, Antigua, at 3:00P After being questioned
about why I had eight "crew" and no "passengers", I was given forms to take back
to the boat for each crewmember to fill in and instructed to proceed to
Immigration the next day at 10:00AM. Never before in my experience have all the
details of a yacht-clearance form been checked more precisely or more times as
they were at Immigration. I arrived promptly at 10:00AM and the procedure ended
at 11:50AM. Note: The Immigration form has six copies, so you must write with a hard
hand to avoid filling in the copies a second time. Although I planned to leave early
in the morning, it was not possible to check in and out at the same time. I was told
to come back at 3:00PM for the check out, which took until 4:00PM. It was a pity to
waste the better part of a day on clearance procedures.
Continued on next page


CLEAR SKIES FORECASTED FOR THIS SAFE HARBOR

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The coasts around Guadeloupe and the surrounding islands are spread with a lot
of fishing lines and buoys found singly and in pairs up to six miles offshore. They
are not marked with lights or poles, so are invisible at night or in bad weather. Some
buoys are as small as cricket balls. Many of these hazards can be found around
Marie Galante and outside Deshaies on Guadeloupe's west coast. To be on the
safe side, it's best to have a good lookout throughout the whole cruising area.
RIVIERE SALEE
Passing from north to south: after the river's entrance, one of the green buoys is
missing and the other is adrift on Ilet Colas (hazardous in the night).
Of the three mooring buoys at the Bridge L'Alliance, one is missing, the second is
only three metres from the mangroves, and the third one, which we used, was
okay. The further buoys after the bridge were, in order: red okay, red missing
(instead, there was an unlit yellow plastic buoy the size of a basketball), red okay,
red unlit, green unlit, green okay. At Pont de La Gabarre, red okay, green okay! Of
the four mooring buoys listed in Doyle's Guide, we found only one okay; the second
was half sunk, and the further two were visible but adrift in the mangroves.
Sailors' and Landlubbers' Auction, Bequia
Bequia's annual Sailors' and Landlubbers' Auction to benefit the Sunshine School
for Children with Special Needs will be held on Sunday, February 17th, at L'Auberge
des Grenadines on the shore of Admiralty Bay. A preview begins at 1:00PM, and the
Auction starts at 2:00.
It all begun in 1990 when Norwegian sailors Mariann and Peter decided to "give
back" to their favourite island, and held a Marine Gear Auction aboard their double-
ended ketch Fredag. Cruisers brought items they wanted to sell and put a price on
them. Any amount over this price went to the Sunshine School. Mariann says, "It
struck me how many people just gave things and did not want to receive any
money at all. Here was a chance to really make money for the school!"
In subsequent years, more and more items have been donated that have nothing
to do with the sea. Recently, in between the anchors, winches and deck prisms,
appear paintings by well-known local artists, wall hangings, lawn furniture and more,
and landlubbers are happy to join in. Refreshments are also on sale.
Come and join the fun, but keep the good cause in mind and bid as high as your
purse can manage! In 2007 the result was ECS22,937 let's make it bigger this year!
Even if you are not going to be in Bequia on February 17th, look around your boat
or home at all that stuff which is just too good to toss, and pass it on. Drop off
donated items before February 16th at the Sunshine School between 9:00AM and
3:00PM weekdays.
The jumble sale that used to coincide with the Auction will be held separately this year,
on Sunday, March 2nd, at 1:00PM under the Almond Tree in Port Elizabeth. Preceding the
jumble sale will be a Fun Walk sponsored by The Gym at Aqua, also to raise funds for the
Sunshine School. Registration is ECS20 per person; top fund-raisers will receive gym mem-
berships of a week or more! The walk starts at 10:00AM under the Almond Tree, goes
around the Mount Pleasant loop and returns to the starting point. Back under the
Almond Tree, cool down and partake in the sale of refreshments and baked goods,
books, students' crafts, Sunshine School merchandise AND the Annual Jumble Sale.
For information on the Fun Walk contact Lisa at (784) 458-3761 or 431-6332
For information on the Auction and Jumble Sale contact Mariann "Why Knot?"
VHF 08: phone (784) 457 -"- - -. ;':,.-
For information about -.- : .. :


Total Lunar Eclipse this Month
Jeannie Kuich reports: All of the Caribbean will be treated to a Total Eclipse of the
Moon on the evening of February 20th. The Moon will be high and accompanying it
will be pearly Saturn and the star Regulus in Leo. This double event will be the only
one of its kind occurring within the next millennium.
Binoculars will enhance the view but all you really need is your eyes, maybe a
sweet young thing beside you to hold your hand (don't you wish!) and a big
chocolate chip Moon cookie. In any case, stupendous eclipses of the Moon are
always enhanced by having someone with you.
Eclipse times are:
First contact of Moon with Earth's umbra: 9:43PM
Total eclipse begins: 11:01PM
Middle of eclipse: 11:26PM
Total eclipse ends: 11:52PM
Last contact of Moon with Earth's umbra: 1:09AM
Unless atmospheric effects (such as those created by dust from volcanic eruptions
at Montserrat) influence the Moon's disk, it should appear fairly bright, especially
right around the beginning and end of totality. The lower part of the Moon will likely
appear brightest with a ruddy or coppery hue, whereas the upper half should look
more gray or chocolate color.
This is the only total lunar eclipse we may see in the Caribbean this year, so enjoy
this glorious event!
CCEF Wants Your Stuff!
Are you thinking that you should raise your boat's waterline? Too much stuff in
your lockers or on deck? Think about this: any spare parts you don't need, any
clean used clothing, any household goods leave them at the Carriacou Yacht
Club for the annual charity auction in August, which benefits the Carriacou
Children's Education Fund. AND, think about this: come join us for the fun and
the fundraising!
For more information contact boatmillie@aol com.
Errata
WHERE'S THAT AGAIN?
Perceptive readers will have noticed that the photo of docked ARC yachts on
page 22 of last month's Compass was taken in Las Palmas, Canary Islands, before
the start of ARC 2006, not in Rodney Bay, St. Lucia, after its finish same fleet, dif-
ferent place!
LET'S SEE, 30 DAYS HATH...
Perceptive readers will also have noticed that in the tables for the Meridian
Passage of the Moon in last month's Compass, we got carried away and extended
leap year by giving February 31 days. Woops!
Where's Sandi?
Compass contributor Sandi Pomeroy, please contact Sally
at sally@caribbeancompass.com.
Welcome Aboard!
In this issue of Compass we welcome aboard new advertiser Port Louis Marina of
Grenada, page 12; and all the new faces in our Caribbean Marketplace ads on
pages 52 and 53. Good to have you with us!


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BUSINESS


BRIEFS
Grenada: A New Marina for the New Year
Developer Peter de Savary and his team delivered
the Port Louis Marina and Creole Village open and


benefit for Grenada. "Port Louis Marina and Grenada
will now be marketed not only by us, but Camper &
Nicholsons will also put their world-class marketing
machine behind this project. In addition, the new
venture will mean that the marina project will now be
completed even faster, as we will now concentrate
on the development of the residential, hotel and
commercial aspect while Camper & Nicholsons focus
on the marina."
Both the marina wall and 100-metre trestle dock are
open with a capacity of up to 50 vessels including
14 superyachts all with full power, water and nec-


It's official! The opening ceremony for Grenada's newest marina was held on January 4th


operational for the Christmas and New Year holidays
in Grenada. The Port Louis Marina, which is already
accepting some of the world's largest yachts and
boats, was officially opened on January 4th.
The Opening Ceremony came just days after the
news of a major joint venture arrangement between
the de Savary Group and the largest marina devel-
oper in the world, Camper & Nicholsons. In the new
partnership, Camper & Nicholsons have pledged to
invest US$ 24 million to market and develop the Port
Louis marina into one of the best and most exclusive
in the world.
The opening was attended by His Excellency
Governor General Sir Daniel Williams; Minister of
Tourism the Hon. Claris Modeste Curwen; Minister of
Works, the Hon. Brenda Hood; Developer, Peter De
Savary; and Technical Director of Camper Nicholsons,
Bill Green. Minister of Tourism Curwen told the gather-
ing that the project would bring great benefits to
Grenada. "The Port Louis Development and the new
joint venture with Camper & Nicholsons have the full
backing of the Government and people of Grenada.
Government knows that this project will not just bene-
fit the many visitors who will come here but will also
bring thousands of good jobs to Grenadians."
De Savary described the joint venture as a huge


essary infrastructure. The Maltese Falcon, the world's
largest private sailing yacht at 289 feet, and the
mega-motoryacht Reverie, at 230 feet, were amongst
the first yachts to berth at Port Louis, in December
2007. Ultimately the marina will have berths for up to
300 vessels. The Victory Bar and village with its duty-
free shops are also open ready to welcome the mari-
na's first guests and the general public.
For more information see ad on page 12
'Benedetto's' to Open at Le Phare Bleu
From next month, sailors and landlubbers alike will
be able to enjoy the flavours of Italy at "Benedetto's"
at Le Phare Bleu in Grenada. The new restaurant,
lounge and bar, located alongside the beach and
the swimming pool, will be open seven days a week
for breakfast, lunch and dinner, with a happy hour
between 5:00 and 6:00PM. There will also be regular
live music events and parties.
Benedetto La Fiura, an Italian chef with over 30
years' experience, has joined Le Phare Bleu team,
and will be overseeing an Italian, casual dining expe-
rience at the new venue. Those familiar with Le Phare
Bleu Marina will no doubt be aware of the already
popular fine-dining restaurant onboard the historic
lighthouse ship. With the opening of Benedetto's, Le


In addition to the restaurant aboard its signature
lightship, Le Phare Bleu Marina will soon offer an
Italian dining spot ashore
Phare Bleu will be ready to welcome customers look-
ing to enjoy snacks and light meals in a laid-back
atmosphere, surrounded by the tranquillity of beautiful
Petit Calivigny Bay.
Le Phare Bleu is also pleased to announce the comple-
tion of its full-service marina, with the availability of a fuel
dock and a Customs office on site from early March. Also
up and running in March will be the laundry service, car
rental and De Big Bamboo watersports boutique.
For more information see ad on page 18
Clipper Round-the-World Race to Visit Port Antonio
They first came to Port Antonio, Jamaica in 2006 as an
afterthought. Now after their first experience at what is
arguably the Caribbean's most beautiful and well-
equipped yachting facility, it has been announced the
competitors in the 2007-2008 Clipper Round the World
Race will once again be stopping at Port Antonio for
several days R&R after a long leg from Panama.
After leaving Port Antonio in late May, the ten inter-
nationally-sponsored 68-foot yachts will head for New
York. Included in the fleet is a Jamaican entry, skippered
by Simon Bradley of Errol Flynn Marina and Shipyard.
Continued on next page


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Continued from previous page
The yacht is appropriately emblazoned with the
Jamaica tourism slogan: "Once You Go, You Know."
If the visiting crews are looking for a real taste of
Jamaica when they make landfall, then they need
look no further than "Norma's" at the Errol Flynn
Marina. There they can sample Norma's red pea
soup, along with her oven front whole-wheat garlic
bread garnished with her secret spread, and perhaps


DMC will order duty-free and VAT-free items for visiting
yachts and other vessels through their international
partners, but the management is looking for full duty-
and VAT-free status for visiting vessels to be available
throughout their store in Dominica.
Also, in response to increased demand, the
Dominica Marine Center is expanding with a second
store and other marine services in the island's northern
port city of Portsmouth. Before the end of March, you


should be able to get your marine items including
electronic goods, mechanical services, boat repairs,
Mercury Marine engines, Yanmar engine and parts
and Doyle sailmaker services all in one stop. The
Dominica Marine Center has also expanded its servic-
es to include sport fishing, which has become an
increasingly popular attraction on the island.
For more information see ad on page 47.

'See My Sea' Boat-Swapping for Boatowners
Not all boatowners are retired and free to cruise
wherever they want, far from their home port. Up until
now, chartering a boat in those distant places has
been the only realistic option for those who have to
keep their boat close to home.
SeeMySea is a new venture, operating much like
the very successful and popular house-swapping
agencies. Their goal is to make it possible for boat-
owners to discover new sailing destinations as well as
share with others their local knowledge and experi-
ence in an atmosphere of open-minded and free
exchange. Once joined up (the cost is around US$100
per year, but the first 300 applicants are free!), boat-
owners will have access to all the boat-exchange
offers and the various services of the site, for the next
12 months. Introducing new members will qualify you
for a discount on your next annual subscription.
For more information visit www seemysea cor or e-
mail contact@seemysea. com.

Left: Dominica Marine Center is branching out to the
northern town of Portsmouth

Below: Interested in boat swapping? Picture yourself
here, or in the Baltic, Great Lakes, Med...


followed by grilled bangers and sauteed potatoes.
That should really set them up for the next leg!
For more details of the race visit www clipper-
roundtheworld com. For more information on the
marina see ad on page 39.

New Grenadines Airways Service between
St. Vincent and St. Lucia
As of Sunday February 10th, Grenadine Airways will
be operating a Sunday service between St. Vincent &
the Grenadines and St. Lucia (Hewanorra). The serv-
ice is designed to connect with the international
flights (Virgin Atlantic, British Airways, Air Canada,
West Jet, US Airways, Air Jamaica, Delta and
American) arriving and departing from Hewanorra, St.
Lucia. If demand is good, then additional days may
be added.
Cost will be US$150 one way plus US$25 fuel sur-
charge and US$15 per person head tax.
For more information contact Grenadines Airways:
tel (246) 418-1654/5, e-mail infoggrenadine-
airway com.

Duty- and VAT-Free Chandlery for Dominica?
The Dominica Marine Center (DMC) is working with
the Government of Dominica to implement a duty-
free and VAT-free chandlery on the island. Currently,


bylaska LX W AR


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CARIBBEAN


ECO-NEWS

Coral Concerns Mount...
As the cartoon character Pogo famously said, "We
have met the enemy and he is us."
A study published last month in the journal Nature
has singled out human activity, especially coastal
--1 i .t .. .: l --as the main culprit in
S I ......... i i i I coral reefs, even more so
than warming sea waters and acidification linked to
global warming.
The study focuses on the Caribbean, where the decline
of reefs is endangering species of wildlife as well as
tourism and fishing that are vital for the local economy,
says lead author Camilo Mora of Dalhousie University in
Halifax, Canada. "The continuing degradation of coral
reefs may be soon beyond repair if threats are not iden
tified and rapidly controlled," he said.
Mora and University of Miami marine biologist
Robert Ginsburg compared several large-scale data
bases that had never before been systematically cross
referenced. Focusing on corals, fishes and seaweed in
322 sites across 13 countries in the Caribbean, the
study matched environmental and ecological data
against patterns of human population density, coastal
development and agricultural land use. Also included
were data on hurricanes, biodiversity, fish populations
and coral disease.
The statistics showed clearly that the number of
people is the main driver of the mortality of corals. But
different kinds of human activity resulted in different
impacts, the study revealed. Higher population densi
ty in coastal areas produces ..-; .- 1 1- --t-
fish stocks, both of which ai i.. ..-1 i i
coral mortality. Chemical discharges from .-i-11;lt .1
land drives an increase in macroalgae i- 11i
which is indirectly linked to coral loss.
Warmer sea surfaces are also contributing to coral
decline, but hurricanes are not, said the study. The
study also concluded that while Marine Protected
Areas help restore fish populations, they do nothing to
protect coral.
A fifth of the world's marine reefs have already been
destroyed and half are threatened because of human
impact, whether directly or as a consequence of rising
temperatures driven by climate change, according to
the World Conservation Union.

... While New Corals are Discovered
Two new species of soft corals were discovered during
an October 2007 expedition to Saba Bank, Netherlands
Antilles, the largest atoll in the Caribbean.
A team that included researchers from the
University of Miami Rosenstiel School of Marine and
Atmospheric Science's Biology and Fisheries Division,
Texas A&M University at Corpus Christi, and the
Universidad de los Andes in Colombia collected 40
species of soft corals and nearly a hundred different
species of crustaceans in just ten days of diving. One
of the likely new species was found in deep water (70
metres), and the other was found to be common in
shallow water (20 metres). Since the gorgonians of the


Caribbean are a well-known group of corals with only
a limited number of species, the discovery of a new
species in the shallowest parts of the Bank was unex
pected. The scientists have concluded that it belongs
to the genus Pterogorgia, in which so far only three
species are known.
The expedition is part of an ongoing effort by the
Department of the Environment of the Netherlands
Antilles to develop a sound management plan for the
Bank and legislation to support it. The goal is to have
the Saba Bank designated as a Particularly Sensitive
Sea Area (PSSA), which will help to regulate shipping
over the parts of the Bank that lie outside the territo
rial waters of Saba, but are still located within the
Exclusive Economic Zone of the Netherlands Antilles.

Blue Award for St. Lucia's Solar Ferry
Discovery at Marigot Bay on St. Lucia's west coast
has been awarded the Blue Award from US-based
Islands magazine in recognition for environmental


achievements. The Blue List, published in the
December 2007 issue of Islands, recognizes 100 lead
ers in responsible tourism who, according to the mag
azine, "ensure that islands remain environmentally
and culturally sound for future generations."
Discovery's locally designed and built solar-powered
ferry, the Sunshine Express, was number 63 on the list.
The ferry was launched in July 2007 to transport
guests of the marina resort to the bars and restaurants
dotted around Marigot Bay -all with zero emissions.
Resort owner Judith Verity said, "One resource the
Caribbean has in abundance is solar power and solar
power technology is becoming rapidly more efficient.
We hope that the Sunshine Express will be the first of
many solar powered boats not just in St. Lucia but
throughout the Caribbean."

Turtle Conservationist Honored
Four Caribbean nationals have been named 2008
winners of the Anthony N. Sabga Caribbean Awards for
Excellence (ANSCAFE) for their work in fields ranging
from the arts to science, technology and the environ
ment. Among them is Annette Arjoon of Guyana, the
founding secretary and project coordinator of the
Guyana Marine Turtle Conservation Society. She has
been instrumental in protecting Shell Beach, a 100-mile
ecosystem in the northwest coastal region of Guyana,
where four species of marine turtles nest. All sea turtle
species in the Caribbean are considered endangered.
ANSCAFE laureates receive a gold medal, a citation
and TT$500,000 (US$80,000). The 2008 laureates will


be given their prizes in a gala ceremony in Trinidad on
April 12th.

Heineken Regatta Supports Nature Groups
The Nature Foundation of Sint Maarten and the St.
Martin Reserve Naturelle each received a donation
from Heineken St. Maarten recently, to put towards
conservation -;'- .;'-;;= on both the French and
Dutch sides i i ,. .-i.td. The funds were raised
through the sale of white "serious clean fun" bracelets
during the St. Maarten Heineken Regatta 2007.

-a -....


Left to right: Kim van Loo (Shipwreck Shops), Heather
Tackling (Heineken Regatta), Marisa Brandy (Nature
Foundation), and John Leone and Mandy Renkens
(Heineken St. Maarten)

The new bracelets for the 2008 St. Maarten
Heineken Regatta will be on sale soon, and the 2007
bracelets are still available from the Nature
Foundation offices and Heineken St. Maarten.
For more information on conservation projects on St.
Maarten contact the Nature Foundation at info@nature
foundationsxm.org or Reserve Naturelle at reservena
turelle@domaccess.com.

Statia's National Marine Park
The St. Eustatius Marine Park celebrated its tenth
anniversary in December 2007, with the official open
i;: -f tl- national Park Visitor Centre. The highlight
Ii..- ..I was i. ..i I I I .. I
ofEnvironment i , i 11 ,, I-.' 11h -
announced that the St. Eustatius Marine Park had
been designated a National Park.
The Park Manager, Nic-1- F:t-1- .- i.ih
into the diverse habitats 11. ., ii I ... ......
the world, and described the development of the Marine
Park over the past ten years, acknowledging the impor
tant work of the Dutch Caribbean Nature Alliance for
their work to provide long-term financial security
through establishment of a conservation trust fund.
The dive centres were represented by Rinda Hees from
Dive Statia who explained some of the direct benefits for
the dive industry, "Buoys were a great help in both sav
ing the coral and finding the dive sites, training new
staff is now much quicker... fish life has flourished with
larger fish, more pelagics and also the rarer species.
Relaxed evening seminars were held at different
restaurants during early December to inform the local
community and visitors about various aspects of the
Marine Park. The guest speaker was Kalli de Meyer,
Executive Director and former Manager of Bonaire
National Marine Park, who discussed the Marine
Parks of the Dutch Caribbean with a focus on the
development of Statia National Marine Park.
Continued on next page


Yacht at Rest, Mind at Ease


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Telphone *k w1 9545 587o7 I Telephone t -401 439 16377 Tphone ; 59 396i 7 m 1A5 07
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Continued from previous page
Other seminars included a very well attended presentation about the conservation
of turtles around Statia by Sea Turtle Programme Coordinator, Arturo Herrera, and
an overview of the benefits of the Marine Park in terms of nature and the economy
by Nicole Esteban.
Still Keeping Bequia Clean
Alexandra Paolino reports: On December 1st, 2007, a group of friends in the
Bequia community pursued their monthly clean-up efforts, this time along the
Paget Farm waterfront.
Joining forces with
B H the Paget Farm
Government Primary
School students and
STteachers, the group
ensured that this
was only an initial
attempt to clean up
.f the area. The terrain
was very difficult to
tackle, consisting of
numerous little
e b b w rocky bays where
fishing boats are
pulled ashore and
garbage accumula
.tion is dense.
The group include
ed approximately 35
children and ten
adults. They filled 55 black garbage bags, mainly with plastic engine-oil bottles,
beverage bottles, bags, wrappers, cups and forks plus aluminum packets and
cans, old clothes and shoes, and some rubber items.
The school children were -it -...ti- i --;;t i---: 1 1 their country clean. The
main aim of the Paget Farm .1 I. i i ... .. II .i .- to raise community aware
ness of the importance of keeping our natural environment clean, not only to beau
tif- -inr -.rilr-inii, 1,- f t -.1- t- minimize environmental hazards.
i, I. .. ..I .. .. -- .1 1 .1 I donations. Many thanks to Bequia Venture, the
Bequia Tourism Association, Karib Cable, and Hutchinson Construction Company.
Whither Cuba's Marine Environment?
A December 25th, 2007, article by Cornelia Dean in The New York Times notes
that "through accidents of geography and history", Cuba retains one of the most
undamaged natural environments in the Caribbean. But what will become of it after
Fidel Castro and his associates leave power and, as is widely anticipated, the United
States ---'rnmm nt relaxes or ends i i,. 1 ,,,i..
Dean ..I [* ,I now] has an i. .... i ... i i .. that elsewhere in the
region have been ripped up, paved over, poisoned or otherwise destroyed in the
decades since the Cuban revolution, when development has been most intense.
Once the embargo ends, the island could face a flood of investors from the United
States and elsewhere, eager to exploit those landscapes."
Conservationists, environmental lawyers and other experts, from Cuba and else
where, met recently in Cancun, Mexico, to discuss the island's resources and how
to continue to protect them.
Cuba has done "what we should have done -identify your hot spots of biodiver
sity and set them aside," said Oliver Houck, a professor of environmental law at
Tulane University Law School (US) who attended the conference.
Cuba's relatively large underwater coastal shelves are crucial for numerous marine
species. Like corals elsewhere, those in Cuba are suffering as global warming raises
ocean temperatures and acidity levels. But they have largely escaped 1.;..;- from
pollution, boat traffic and destructive fishing practices. Diving in them .- i.i going
back in time 50 years," said Davi 1 '.. ..1. .... a conference organizer.
In a report last year, the World 1 11.1 .... I said that "in dramatic contrast" to its
island neighbors, Cuba's beaches, mangroves, reefs, ... i 1, .i ,
were relatively well preserved. Their biggest threat, t i I 1
of sudden and massive growth in mass tourism when the US embargo lifts."


La'i,:j'o Mr, St ,V,"i(ch n t.


Mor i than a marin a.
At Lagoon Manna. first-class berthing is Iut part of the
story Naturally we provide full marina services Including
shore power w~ter uel however .nd toilet fti llies.glrbitge
removal. Ice. mechanical r.pain and advice We also oiler
a 19.roor hotel wrth bar and resutuiran. Two pools a
supermarkets Iaundry. currency exchange. mfitrnet and fax
bureau plus local excursions Add a professional. welcornig
team. ind you've i true yachting tLh en in a heavenly ierrtng


TO RESERVE YOUR BERTH.
CALL 764 458-4308
OR VHF CHANNEL bS

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Stand alone and failsafe due
to the automatic pitch control
Heavy duty made to last
A real professional A


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Sail from the Heart

Andrew Burke's Single-Handed, One-Armed Round Barbados Sail




Prominent Caribbean racing sailor and cancer warrior
Andrew Burke aims to draw attention this month to the
need for support for cancer patient- I ..i, solo AND
one handed around his home :-I.,I I Barbados.
Barbado s C _1 Sil- 1-1 a t n1 11 il- ---1
A after ai i .. a . ... .... h. ll .. I i *
Andrew I.. I .I .. .. ... .. .... I
operation I I I
chemotherapy, Andrew's entire left arm and shoulder
blade were removed in 2005.
Despite having only one arm, Andrew continued to cam-
paign the yachts Bruggadung I and II to victories in highly
competitive regional regattas such as the St. Maarten I
Heineken Regatta, Angostura Tobago Race Week and the 11
Mount Gay Boatyard Regatta in Barbados. [See "Bajan
Racer Burke is Bringing It All Back Home"', Caribbean
Compass, December 2007.]
Recently Andrew has been diagnosed with a cancerous
growth in his amazingly courageous heart. Treatment of
this is ongoing. So his latest sailing challenge comes
straight from his heart. .
The Barbados Cancer Society aims to re appoint anI ".
Education Officer and a Welfare Officer. They will address
the early detection and post diagnostic needs of cancer ..
patients, thereby reducing the island's death rate from .
cancer. Andrew's goal is to raise a minimum of
Bd$150,000 in order to make this cancer program effective
for the people of Barbados.
All sponsors will be recognized appropriately. Donations
should be written directly to: The Barbados Cancer
Society, Henry's Lane, Collymore Rock, St. Michael,
Barbados, and identified with Andrew's name. For more
information phone (246) 436 8888.
Andrew plans to make his solo, single handed circum-
navigation of Barbados on February 10th.







Louis mar. oa open
s, renada. i

G urAse o ill be adding another nine mega.achl
be berths to40 meters. The Creole village includes shops
Sta Capital (which can array l sel of marine support
servicetan P sales office. there uXtails ofthe entire Port Louis
project are aI a ic g information on property~ and long term berth
sales. Due Io ongdin ,iment, present berthing availabiliI, is limited so
please contact us before you arrive.







ANTIGUA'S SUPERYACHT CUP 2007s


'Racing at


its Best!' for


the Big Boats

by Lucy Tulloch

Palma de Mallorca in the Mediterranean and Antigua in the Caribbean: two of the
most important superyacht destinations in the world with some of the most envi
able sailing conditions. With the second Superyacht Cup in the Caribbean immi
nent, Antigua's Minister for Tourism, The
Right Honourable Harold Lovell, had talks
with Juan Gual, President of the Chamber of
Commerce for Mallorca, at the 2007 Monaco
Yacht Show to discuss the developing trade
links -i .i ... .. 1.e marine industry.
And i .... ...i 12th to 15th, 2007,
Antigua's second Superyacht Cup, spon
scored by Camper & Nicholsons and SLAM,
was held amidst fantastic sailing conditions
with six entries ranging from 29 to 44 metres
competing in three days of pursuit racing off
English Harbour.
Race One saw Tenacious, the Ted Hood
'1';;--1 im-tr- sloop, start first in a stiff
1 I I T Patient Falcon the Nelson
Marek designed 30 metre, then by Yanneke
Too, a 36metre Bill Dixon design. With a big
sea running and more than 25 knots of wind,
the sailing was exciting. Easing sheets onto a
broader reach down to Curtain Bluff,
Yanneke Too, Timoneer and Sojana all dis
played their downwind sails. This was fol
lowed by a dramatic beat into a black squall
with gusts of up to 45 knots, off Turtle Bay.
Yanneke Too crossed the finish line first,
winning by 2 minutes and 11 seconds.
Second was Patient Falcon, and third
Sojaa, finishing with less than 6 minutes
between them!
Race Two was blessed with tiiiin,:,n. ail
ing conditions off the Pillars I I ,,' at
the entrance to English Harbour. The 44
metre i- -. i i I i T7imoneer over
took Y . t i leg, keeping her full main and mizzen staysail in the
gusty trades, and then overtook the smaller Patient Falcon on the reach down to
Curtain Bluff.
Kenny Coombs, founder of the Antigua Classic Yacht Regatta, who was sailing on
the 100 foot Swan Virago told me that it was some of the best ocean racing he had
ever enjoyed.


Wild wind shifts of 20 degrees on the beat back up the coast tested the helmsmen,
and those with local 'n--"1.1f find a forgiving draft!) could hug the coast to take
the lifts and tack out I 1 i1 I seas. Finally, Timoneer won the second race.
Race Three brought very close sailing with all the yachts i....m-..... .l .... i min-
utes. Again, exhilarating weather conditions with 25 to 30 .. i i i .. i a big
sea tested these impressive vessels with Yanneke Too and Sojana sailing through the
fleet and finally overtaking Timoneer minutes before the finish. At Curtain Bluff, the
38-metre Farr-designed Sojana tacked around the mark just after Virago, before
hardening up to beat up the coast. Sojana was forced to tack off for clean air and
soon started to make her gains on the whole fleet farther off the coast. The larger,
heavier ketches Timoneer and Yanneke Too headed out to sea on long tacks, while
Sojana sailed up the middle of the course, benefiting from any wind shifts and wind
speed variations.
Timoneer approached the line from way out to sea but did not lay the pin end of
the li-- i"in' c'ana the opportunity to overtake her and storm through the finish
line. '.. point rating" for the last race, Sojana won The Superyacht Cup
Antigua 2007 by just 0.3 points.
Captain Marc Fitzgerald of Sojana, who had made it to the start only by gybing on
the finish line of the Role .1 - .11.. .. ., i . .. and b -li;; straight to Antigua,
told me that he thought ...... .- I .1 I .. kind I .., both with outstand
:. ..1.. ... ... I ds, as well as the hospitality ashore and rum on the table!"
S.. .... .... ... www.thesuperyachtcup.com.






../



.- 4t


S;;.heading for the start. The Superyacht Cupjoins Sailing Week and the
Yacht Regatta as a stellar Antiguan event


Thi tsabh is des; P ner 200 and
M2i roviCi Ihen 22ai oowiihi owr in the
same package.

Thli large capacity 6 Ibrer engine comes in a compact package and only takes out only 225 hD. By compar-son
Sour nearest compell.on lake thai oul of a 4 l.ter engine Runnng at a low 2500 rpm s the comopeiiIon s 3300
rpm or higher the M225T. ,lII have a longer life t(mnnmum 12 000 hour TBOI ana quieter operation
The gear-dnven Iresh water pump has a longer life and leii to go wrong while [he walte gale turbo charger
g-ve9 bener performance a[ lower rpms An ,niegral plaie type o0, cooler combines less ho:es wrlh longer life
and bDener efficiency

With Perkins' outrsanding marin.zaton excess hoses and bells
have been eng-neered away and everything has easy access for Perkins R.BRE
stress-free maintenance.
Call us for the dealer nearest you.


ST : ( ) 4 4 2
Po~~i E-al atpwI ufv~o










Regatta



News

'Too Much Fun' at SLYC Fun Day!
On December 16th, 2007, the St. Lucia Yacht Club
(SLYC) hosted its inaugural sailing Fun Day, inviting
local and Atlantic Rally for Cruisers (ARC) sailors to the
Laser and Optimist Dinghies event. An overwhelming
45 Laser sailors and 12 Opti sailors were geared for


racing. This response, however, meant that not only
did courses have to be shortened, but due to a limit-
ed number of boats, only 30 Laser sailors were able to
take to the waters. The second race for the Optis was
canceled due to deteriorating weather, as the gusty
winds became challenging for the young sailors.
Despite the long wait to sail a race or two, all sailors
enjoyed the day and many have been seen since,
proudly wearing their free SLYC Fun Day T-shirts.
The day was wrapped up with the prizegiving, and
the following placed for prizes: Mark Spurway, Dario
Daniel, Marcus Sweeney, Edgar Roe, Andreas Melia,
Nick Casey, Benn Atkinson, Christopher Uppheim, Sid
Payne and Leo Sogden.
This day was such a success that the SLYC intends to
make it an annual event (they may need to find
some more Lasers!). Of course, a day like this makes or
breaks on the volunteer help, so thanks go to:
Danielle, who did an excellent job of organizing the
event; Gary and Faye for providing the committee
boat Hullabaloo; Angela at the registration desk; Ted
and Peter on the start and finish lines, and many other
yacht club volunteers including Uli, Lily, Teresa, Fred
and Barbara.
Many thanks to the main sponsors: Ferrands Dairy,
Marintek, Johnsons Hardware, Peter & Co., Spinnakers,
Cats, Island Water World and Chris Doyle Publications,
who allowed everyone to get on with the sailing, and
enjoy a great day on land and sea.
SR-Max Upset at Guardian's Southern Caribbean Regatta
This regatta, held from December 27th through 30th,


March 20th March 24th

S-. .',.


-I W.1%' 'ji


2007 in Trinidad, has built up a tradition of great
dinghy racing for the Southern Caribbean, pulling
sailors of all ages and from several Caribbean nations
into the boats. Although only three types of boats
were raced (Optimist, Laser and SR-Max), the sailors
raced the following classes: Opti Under 12, Opti Over
12, Laser 4.7, Laser Radial, Laser Standard and the
locally designed and built SR-Max.
Winds are notoriously light in and around Trinidad,
so sailors were happy that it was only on the final
day that they had to sail past Five Islands in order to
find a breeze. By the end of that morning the wind
came in strong, allowing all classes to complete the
last two races and thus be allowed a drop from the
nine races sailed.
In the Opti Under 12 class, Derek Poon Tip (TTSA) and
Russell Franklin (Vessigny) placed respectively first and
second again this year. Third place went to Kelly-Ann










SLYC's first ever
Fun Day saw a
high turnout and
high winds!







Arrindell (TTSA) who managed to keep both Abigail
Affoo and Myles Kaufmann just behind her in the last
day of racing (placing fourth and eighth).
The dropped race came in handy for Nicholas Knox
(TTSA), who happily dropped his 11 h place (a victim
of the dreaded capsize!), just beating his club-mate
Wesley Scott (TTSA) and taking home first place in the
Opti Over 12 class.
In the Laser 4.7 and Laser Standard classes, the
results stayed more or less the same from one day of
racing to the next. However, in the Laser Radial class,
the Leighton brothers had to give up first place to
Andrew Lewis, who clinched his position with a first
and second on the last day of races, leaving brothers
Stuart and James Leighton with respectively second
and third place. Perseverance is definitely a must for
any good sailor, so no doubt next year will see these
enthusiastic brothers making a bid for first one
more time.
The biggest surprise of the regatta this year was in
the SR-Max class. Paul Amon, the champion of this
class for the last three years in a row, was finally
dethroned by Peter Baillie and his crew. No doubt
Peter and his crew will enjoy the glory of this position
for the next year, and prepare to defend their title in
December 2008.
The best female sailor for the regatta was Abigail
Affoo, and the best male sailor was Christopher
Sposato of Barbados.
Medical Issue Raised at Nelson's Pursuit Race, Antigua
John Burnie reports: Rumor has it that the fifth edi-


* Yacht Races

* J/24 Races

* Local Double-Ender Races


Notice of Race & Yach
www.begos.com

Tel: (784) 4.
e-mail: bsc@cai



b n, IV


tion of this New Year's Eve race, held out of Antigua
Yacht Club (AYC), was "absolutely splendid". Thanks
go out to Tommy Patterson and the AYC for all their
organizational skills and giving of their time. This pursuit
race was not for the faint of heart, as winds with gusts
of more than 35 knots passed through, creating swells
and chaos in their wake.
The big boats prevailed through the weather and
the spoils of the "best elapsed time" were shared
equally between Carlo Falcone's beautiful 80-foot
Fife, Mariella, and the Swan 651 Tihama. Vessels of all
sizes and fashions participated, including several of
the new Dragons based at the recently founded
Harmony Hall Yacht Club their crews sailed magnifi-
cently. The competitive Swan 56 Lolita (past overall
winner of Antigua Sailing Week) was even specially
chartered for the event.
The race was partly clouded by an accident on one
of the yachts. Unpleasant though this accident was, it
was not life-threatening, and the incident was well
handled by the Race Committee and coordinated by
the extremely professional ABSAR (Antigua and
Barbuda Search and Rescue) inshore lifeboat support-
ing the race. In addition, the onshore medical facili-
ties are very good in Antigua, and are always pre-
pared to aid sailors.
Despite this, facilities to deal with critical trauma, such
as limb-saving operations, are perhaps not as sophisti-
cated in Antigua as they are in neighboring
Guadeloupe. The French Government has invested in
the medical staff, facilities and equipment needed to
deal with these most serious injuries and life-threatening
conditions. And Guadeloupe is only a short helicopter
flight from Antigua (less than 70 km).
Recently much work has been done by Neil
Forrester (Chairman of Antigua Sailing Week) and
Jean Michel Marziou (Triskell Sailing Organisation,
Guadeloupe) in promoting closer sailing ties between
Antigua and Guadeloupe. This endeavor has been
hugely supported by the likes of Tommy Patterson and
Stan Pearson in Antigua, as well as other active mem-
bers of the French and Antiguan sailing clubs.
However, a fail-safe agreement between the
Governments of Antigua and Guadeloupe to allow
"bureaucratically free" emergency medical evacua-
tion flights directly to the hospital in Guadeloupe has
yet to be ratified.
As more sailing events take place in Antigua (creat-
ing large influxes of people onto the island), the
potential for straining the island's medical resources
increases. A medical "entente cordiale" between the
islands would enhance the safety considerations of all
sailors participating in sailing regattas in Antigua (and
allow all mothers of sailors to rest more easily during
the racing season!).
Fast Barbados Round-the-lsland Race 2008
Renata Goodridge reports: Barbados likes to com-
memorate one of its sailing statesmen, past Prime
Minister Errol Barrow, by holding a race around the
island. This is not for novices, as the east coast of the
island carries its share of shoals and big waves. This
year, the event was held on January 20th, the day
before the bank holiday (allowing the sailors a day of
rest before getting back into the work week).
Three boats participated this year all 80-foot maxi
racing boats. The local company Ocean Racing
Challenge entered their two Whitbread maxis, Athina
and Martella. The visiting IMS maxi Longo Barda,
owned by Paul Edwards of the UK, also joined In the
race. This latter maxi is a little bit wider and has a taller
mast than the other two, so was able to carry more
sail, which helped her push ahead to win the race.
The boats all raced equally, with a start
at 1015 hours.
Continued on next page


* Coconut Boat Races

* Crazy Craft Race

* Sandcastle Competition


it Pre-Registration:
'easterregatta

57-3649 Buera,<
ribsurf.com

4 Digicel


l IPJFWPMJVN asses MouIT.%N TrT


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Continuedfrom previous page adding a new one for 2008: the Curacao Heineken Regatta,
... 'M F` whose motto is "Serious Fun". The Curagao Sailing Festival will
-. ...... .. hold this regatta from November 7th through 9th this year, with
.... .. racing held in and around historic and colorful Willemstad.
This will bring the number of large Heineken regattas to seven.
S.. The St. Maarten Heineken Regatta (March 6th through 9th),
Sinu .h annually draws over 2,500 sailors from over 40 countries. Within
SI the sailing world, St. Maarten is synonymous with quality and
S i. --. racing fun, and increases the number of visitors to the island
,. "a w b w a every year.
The Culebra International Regatta, held this year from March
Stl, e14th through 16th, is always a well-contested event over 70
boats raced the event in 2007.
SContinued on page 33

I Left Curaqao's Sailing Festival is now included in the roster
So of regional Heineken sponsored regattas



Below: Maxs charge across the starting line at the 2008 Around
Barbados Race

These boats are fast! The visiting yacht won the race, with
a time of 5 hours 29 minutes; Martella was not far behind
with a time of 5 hours 35 minutes. Athina fell behind a bit
due to some sail difficulties, but finished with a time of 6 /" ,
hours 3 minutes. "
The racing conditions were demanding, with consistent
northeast tradewinds blowing at a minimum of 25 knots,
and the big sea swell ensured that all crews (even the sea- T
sick ones) needed to stay focused.
Paul Edwards had said before the race that he would
donate Bds$1000 to the crew that won the race. When his
boat ended up winning, he promptly asked ORC what their
favorite charity was. So the Barbados Cancer Society,
through Andrew Burke's Sail from the Heart campaign (see
story on page 12), will benefit from Paul's generosity. ORC is
also donating their boats and time for this event, and will be
in the flotilla that will sail alongside Andrew on the final leg '
of his journey (down the calmer west coast of the island) /.
These ma) men and women sure know how to support not
only local sailing, but local charities as well.
Heineken Regattas for 2008
For 30 years, Heineken has been involved in sponsoring -
sailing regattas in the Caribbean. And they are .. z-"


i




si f |||HB' ^







DIFFERENT BOATS...


...FOR DIFFERENT FOLKS


SVAAP SISTERSHIP Ideal Wave Will Do


by Norman Faria

From the shores of the Carlisle Bay anchorage this past December, the ketch
rigged 30-footer riding gracefully at anchor looked familiar.
Rowing out to her, I found her to be the sistership of the John Alden-designed
Svaap in which American William Albert Robinson made one of the earliest solo cir
cumnavigations (during 1928 to 1931).
On board the later version, named Walkabout and built in Australia by the Driscoll
Brothers in 1952, was another singlehander, Britisher Clive Ellis.
Clive, ,, I -1.i.. ... 1. ..d he bought the still immaculately maintained long
keeler fro. II. ..... I i .... of Zimbabwe who had sailed her from Mozambique
to England in the 1960s.


.


This is Clive's second visit to the Caribbean in Walkabout


"I bought her in 1974. At the time I was living aboard an old Dutch barge, built in
1916, in a marina in Chichester, and Mike and Liz and their kids were in the boat
nearby. When they decided to move ashore, I took it over. I rebuilt the cabin interi
or and put in a new Beta 35-horsepower diesel to replace the BMC Captain. Also an
electric anchor winch and roller furling for the jib and a few other luxuries."
This is the second visit to the Caribbean for Clive in Walkabout. In 1979, he vis
ited Barbados and other islands during a leisurely Atlantic sojourn.
The Driscolls had built her hull to last. It is of the really hard jarrah (Eucalyptus
marginata) wood with copper-riveted, steam-bent frames. The laid decking, very
beautifully done, is also of a type of eucalyptus. The boat's length overall is actual
ly 33 feet (10 metres).
Basically, except for the "few luxuries", most of the original gear, including the
wooden spars and bronze fittings, are still there and functioning well. The Aries self
steering is the same one used on the previous Atlantic crossing. On this trip,
Barbados was raised after an uneventful 16-day run from the Cape Verdes.
Ci. .. i ... .. ., ,i i. 1 1 1 ,., ,- -intl --ooden boa 1. 1, 1 . .,,
her i i .1 ..i i i .. .. .. I ,p ... I .. i have his '
and Shoal on board. I just happened to be there at the time (when the Saunders
decided to sell). Now, I've had the boat so long, its part of me. I have a son bum
ming around, as they say, on a bus in New Zealand. I am heading there now and I
guess I will pass on the boat to him."
From Barbados, Clive was due to head for Carriacou in the Grenadines and then
Grenada on this still fine example of American boat design know-how and
Australian boatbuilding expertise.


by Norman Faria

In 1966, American film director/writer Bruce Brown made the still-memorable
movie called The Endless Summer which chronicled the world-wide travels of two
young surfers --.r-.h;. for the perfect wave. Also in that year, a young Swedish
S- t 1- i -- 1 I . 1 came up with a remarkable little pocket cruiser which he
11 ii i Vega.
Recently, young German surfer Holger "Beule" Sander sailed his Vega to
BarbU, i - .. i.... Caribbean quest for a good, ideal -he wouldn't go so far as to
say I
Back in the mid-1960s, the movie 'Endless Summer' was influential in popu
larizing the sport outside traditional areas like Hawaii and California. Holger, on
his beach-hopping so far, isn't any trail-blazer in that respect. The sport is all
over the world now, he tells you as he makes coffee for us aboard Liza in the
Carlisle P .n-'b-r-
How is I'. .... i... I. "I've been to a couple places on the east and south
coast here, including Bathsheba which I understand is the place for internationally
recognized champi
onships. The waves in
the island are okay, but 9
it depends on the .
weather which changes: : 1
the wave sizes and pat-
terns. I'm looking for- Y
ward to visiting some of
the other islands." T -
Holger, who hails p
I '....i. ,, -said
he bought tie Vega in
June 2006 from his
friend Kyle Taylor after
both of them had sailed
it across the Bay of w. *
Biscay. Holger then
sailed Liza across the e
Atlantic, accompanied
by old friend Tony wel.t
Chavez, who naturally, -a .r
is a surfer from
California. Also on Holger's Albin Vega, Liza, is a proen pocket cruiser
board is a dog of
unknown breed called
Guvvy, whom they found while staying at a campground in Morocco ("world class
waves there," Holger chips in). Beside the other gear on board, including the surf
boards, are two life vests for Guvvy.
Everything has gone well so far. Liza made a fairly slow (28 days) crossing from
the Canary Islands to Barbados. The German made Wind Pilot self steering gear
performed exceptionally well.
The Albin Vega turned out to be a good choice, too. The 27 foot (8.25 metre) sloop
was well built out of fiberglass by the Larsson Marine yard in Sweden in 1972. Over
3,000 were built and many are sailing all over the world. Liza (original name) bears
sail number 634.
A review of the design in Good Ol P it m- .-in-'- ---+,site noted: "sailboat per
formance is the distilled essence of I . ... ....- -" but went on to say that
Brohill came up with a really outstanding, fast, reasonably roomy, and inexpensive
pocket cruiser.
Holger, who does carpentry- a 1 .1,,' 1.1 .1 1..... ....- may have some
disagreements with the descri., I... ... I I ,I I I, was thinking of
buying a Morgan Out Island.
Gazing at the waves coming home to break over the reef in front of the new Hilton
Hotel at Needham's Point, he hasn't as yet found his ideal wave. The two stars in the
film 'Endless Summer' found theirs off the southeast coast of Africa, if I remember
from seeing the movie 'I .. .. II Jolger doesn't feel he has to go that far. From
what he's seen of the ( ,, ... ,, it could be right here.


Sea Sekces .
S HI FPC: HA IM LE ,

Advice solutions, choice...

'. r, .- ~.-* ^.-. -








,ric, l r,- Sea Serices
X9i rueF Durst[.e fjs Poinr- !imon 372) Fur as Frruxe MARTINIQUE FWI TeI +5B68M 70 26 69 L-n U -O T cO LJ e







"Launch de boat! Launch de boat!" The crowd was
getting anxious.
Many of them had been there on the beach on the
tiny Grenadine island of Petite Martinique since
9:00AM. It was now late afternoon and there were still
a few feet of sand between the boat and the shore.
They had already listened to the speeches from vari
IIII .. i-l-l;;n: the Prime Minister of
.... I i hI I I I Carriacou are part. (The
P.M. was on PM in the PM.) Film crews had abandoned
their tripods, now gloriously employed to hold the
boatowner's bottle of Guinness.
One last heave and the crowd gave a loud cheer, fol
lowed by a collective sigh as the bow embedded itself
firmly into the shoreline, the stem still on land. This was
a heavy boat for a 40-footer and the method of launching
her was a bit unusual too, at least by local standards.
We had arrived a bit late, sailing the Spencer 44
Yellowbird upwind from Carriacou's Tyrrel Bay to
Petite Martinique that morning, Sunday, January
13th. I was disappointed, thinking we had missed the
II. i 1. It's a real delight to see all those strong
i i, i ... men wielding large axes slashing at the
supports in unison until a vessel gently rests on her
side, but since this boat's keel was already attached
and loaded with 3,500 pounds of lead, they chose to
roll the boat to the water while still in her cradle,
which explains why it was taking so long.
The rollers themselves were a bit too small for the
job and, since they were soft galvanized pipes, they
were flattening under the excessive load. Though not
his first choice, the builder was forced to use whatev
er was available that's the :. i,,, i i .11 .i i... .
this neck of the woods. Anc i l I ... I. ... I.
experience and it will be better next time. "Lucky" Jeff
gel i ,
i -i ..- is captain of Jambalayca a 65-foot
Carriacou-built wooden schooner that plies the
Grenadines on charter, a breathtaking sight under full
sail, postcard perfect. He had this new sloop built to
take smaller groups of :- i:t out on day charter, but
it was not meant to be. I I the vessel was complete
ed he had received a purchase offer. Now all he had to
do to close the deal was get her rigged and ready to
race in the Port Louis Grenada Sailing Festival at the
end of January. Then he could start the whole thing
over again and build the next boat. But first there was
the troubling matter of a little sand.


Launching in



Petite Martinique


by Susan Payetta


11



I


Above: Afloat at last!


Left: Local cargo vessel Adelaide pulling Savvy
into the sea

Magic was first up. Her day job is school bus, taking
children from PM to Carriacou and back, but she was
n't strong enough to pull the sloop out to sea. Next up
was the Adelaide, a big cargo vessel that carries all
sorts of freight to and from Grenada. She was up for
the job, but the line let go on the first try, giving us
time to move Yellowbird out of the way. Another bit of
fiddling with lines from speedboat to cargo ship and
suddenly Savvy was afloat. Raucous -h--rin: ---.-
immediately followed by a hasty retreat i ,. 1 I '
t-r7 1~.1--ri the last ferry returning to Carriacou,
1. -i. i 11 i I they got what they came for.
Boatbuilding on Carriacou and Petite Martinique is
still a way of life for a handful of families that have
been doing this work for generations. The youth aren't
as interested in this skill as much as the old folks
would like. "Dem --;;: fellas just wanna lime
around," I hear man' i I. old craftsmen complain.
It's hard work and can be tedious, doesn't pay as well
as construction and there are no tips from tourists.


There are many idle days when they can't get the
material they need, or sometimes just because it's
raining and they haven't proper shelter. Simple things
with seemingly simple solutions.
It's a rare sight to see politicians, police and the
press at a launching. It's usually a priest, a bloody
chicken and a bottle of rum. But boatbuilding is enjoy
ing a resurgence, thanks in part to people like Jeff,
and the powers-that-be are starting to take notice.
Young men can take pride in building a boat, some
thing rare in these days of mass production, and the
old men are delighted when they can get a commission
to keep their boys working and pass on their experi
ence and knowledge.
Baldwin DeRoche has been building boats since he
was a boy and talks articulately about his craft. Next
time he'll use stronger rollers, maybe bigger. They
were lucky to get the lead they needed, it has been a
scarce commodity and it's much better than the alter
native, a hull full of stones that can shift dangerously.
Handling the lead is risky business, too. The last
launching in Carriacou was delayed while the owners
slowly collected old batteries to melt down for the lead
content. There's recycling for you! Too bad we can't
reuse all those aluminum beer cans to make a mast.
And when the next vessel is launched I'll be sure to
be on time, just in case they can't get lead for the bal
last and go back to cutting her down.


BAREBOAT CHARTERS FULLY CREWED CHARTERS ASA SAILING SCHOOL

Doyle Sail Loft & Canvas Shop Raymarine Electronics Refrigeration Work
Mechanical & Electrical Repairs Fibreglass Repairs Laundry
Vehicle Rentals Showers Air Travel
Ice & Water Diesel & Propane Moorings
Island Tours Surftech Surf Shop Hotel Reservations
Quiksilver Surf wear Restaurant & Bar Boutique
On-site Accommodation Wi-Fi / Internet Cafe Book Exchange

PO Box 39, Blue Lagoon, St Vincent, West Indies
Tel. 1-784-456-9526 / 9334 / 9144 Fax. 1-784-456-9238








Frolic:


Gaiety, a prank, merrymaking;


gambol: to leap, to frisk in sport
by Ellen Sanpere


She was built in 1965, one of 12 fiberglass training Academy, painted white and renamed Kittiwake.
vessels for the US Naval Academy midshipmen in The government of the Virgin Islands bought her in
Annapolis, Maryland. She replaced a nearly identical 1994, but had no resources to restore her after Hurricane
but engineless mahogany yawl of the same name. Lenny washed her ashore in November, 1999. When the
Hundreds of midshipmen, ten or 12 at a time, cruised VI government auctioned her in July 2006, there were no
and raced her sturdy blue hull while practicing com bidders. It ...
mand and control at sea. The Luders 44 yawl Frolic, hurricane ,,....... I I I ..1 , ,,
NA 5, was transferred in 1987 to the US Coast Guard reef, her decks soft, her interior a termite banquet Her







A'
Before. These photos taken in October 2006 at the
Christiansted boardwalk show that Frolic's interior
and exterior.., um, needed a little work
hull was covered by oysters, a sharp line on her bulkhead
marked where the waters of Salt River lay for nearly
seven years, and who knew in what condition her rigging,
sails, engine and cushions would be?
Joe McCants grew up on St. Simons Island, Georgia,
1 .' I I I ..... I I I ...... .

Dancer, a Hunter 30, and others. He also has a horse farm
near the Rio San Juan in the Dominican Republic, that is
now for sale. "Yawls are still new to me," he says.
Continuedon next page
































Auto Renta
PetteCaivgn By S. eoges GR NA A w w~eparele~cm pon 43 44240 P S 2'0'1N614.29







Continued from previous page
Joe sailed Vigilant, a Luders 44, on the Chesapeake
Bay in 1982, and knew he'd like to have a Navy yawl
someday. Vigilant, NA-12, and Alert, NA-2, had retired
from Academy duty and were in use at the Navy
Sailing Club in Patuxent, Maryland. Closer to Joe's
home, Resolute, NA-3, (renamed Osprey when trans
ferred to the Coast Guard Academy), is
now owned by Lee and Larry Best of St.
John, USVI, and has visited St. Croix .
often. When Joe saw Frolic at a
Department of 1 ......... & Natural
Resources mooring .11 11. unsuccess
ful auction, he could tell that 1) the
Luders lines were as beautiful as he'd
remembered, and 2) immediate action
was needed or his dream would sink
before the next auction, in October. A
rented pump kept her afloat until Joe
submitted the only bid.
A good friend of the late artist Gabby
Hayes, Joe introduced Gabby's widow,
Diane Given Hayes, to sailing. She had
lived and worked within sight of the har
bor since 1987, and had loved childhood
-ih vacations in her native
I .... After coming to St. Croix on a
ten-day vacation trip from which she
never returned, Diane worked as a com-
mercial artist, doing ad design for news
papers and at Caribbean Printing. For
extra income, she waitressed. After
Gabby's death, in 2003, Diane helped
restore Ghost Dancer, then moved aboard
with Joe. Living aboard a 30-foot sloop was not too dif
-;t f;- -; .;,iH:. They knew they could restore the
S. iI Having a tiny mizzen would
keep the boat head to wind at their mooring.
Diane and Gabby were full-time painters after
Hurricane H;'i- 1- -- t 1 1.. .1 r of the island's homes
and offices .,, I ..... i, I ,1- *. work. They sold many
of their paintings through displays at Baggy's Too, a
popular restaurant in Gallows Bay, where Diane
worked as a waitress. "He taught me patience," Diane
says, an especially important skill when working in
watercolors, where 'you have to save the white space
for last." Living on a boat, however, meant she had to
limit the size of her works to 11"x15". Her desire to
-...1 1 .;-; paintings was satisfied in part by com-
murals. Her most visible murals are in


several St. Croix restaurants: Golden Rail, Styxx,
-I. ....... ... ... i Smuggler's Cove boast large, color
I ..... ,i I acrylic pieces. The public murals
have led to private commissions in acrylic and small
er watercolors. With Joe aboard Ghost Dancer, she
sailed to Venezuela, where they explored islands and
inland, including a rare visit with the Yanomami

..... '. L*'


After. Joe and Diane are rightly proud of their beautiful
ly transformed 'plastic classic'


Indians near Rio San Carlos in southern Venezuela.
She is eager to see more of the Caribbean islands and
their people.
Frolic's recovery began in October 2006, with a tow to
the Christiansted boardwalk, where multiple layers of
paint were power-washed away into many five-gallon
pails. During a month hauled out at St. Croix Marine,
Joe hammered off the oysters and replaced the boat's
engine and propeller shaft. At her mooring in the har
bor, Joe and Diane continued the work and moved
aboard as soon as they could after selling Ghost


Dancer. They were pleased to find the hull and spars
were sound, the lights worked and that 17 sails, cush
ions for the nine bunks, and an awning had been
stored ashore and were in good condition. The heavy
bronze portlights were watertight. Frolic now has new
rigging, new non-skid on her new decks, and a new
electrical panel. New wood, including a native
m^lh- rn tH-l1 replaced termite-dam
I I i....... i... Joe has serviced and

|i on the list: roller furling and topsides
S paint. The bunks amidships will be con
verted to a dinette and settee. When the
hull is painted, blue, the name on the
transom will return to Frolic.
While Diane worked at the Paradise
Cafe last summer, she noticed when the
space above Judith King's Yellow House
Gallery became available and seized the
S opportunity to have a studio of her own.
Named after the warning sign on its
ancient stairway, the Watch Your Step
Studio's grand opening was during
November 2007's Art Thursday. "I like the
1-ht th'-r- ii -~]:i r. -, and I can
I I ..,.. ."". .... "The studio
has a bathroom with a shower! You know
how important that can be to a cruiser,
especially one with a cockpit shower, dur
ing the winter." A mural on one wall por
trays the adjacent wall's bare stone and
brick as a bougainvillea-framed ruin,
beyond which one could almost step into
Trunk Bay. Bright red shutters hang on
windows overlooking Queen Cross Street.
When the work on Frolic is finished, Joe and Diane will
cruise the Caribbean for two to three years, then look for
their next project. For Diane, that might be learning
about oil painting, where the white is painted on last.
For Joe, it might be another yacht restoration -or not.

Postscript: A major overhaul ofVigilant has also been
done, and she participated in the Annapolis Sail Boat
Show in October 2007.
The US Naval Sailing Association has been given per
mission to raise money and fnd a home for Intrepid, a
sister ship of Frolic. She is currently on the hard in
Annapolis, about to be disposed ofifUSNSA cannot fnd
the resources to keep her. For more information contact
Bob Howe at usnsanusna.edu.


lilt r 111 JliIfirik I r I A 1
in I'ln.mn., I nil,,s t' r ab-!
.ailing "idclidd i


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SAFE PEACEFUL HURRICANE FREE











by Devi Sharp .
I to feel welcome in a new anchorage, and .
Ih I .1 Chamber of Commerce is on hand to
I us to Pelican Island on the Macareo
River, one of the main tributaries in Venezuela's
Orinoco Delta. Nine brown pelicans are lined up on a
partially submerged log behind the island and wait
until our anchors are set to fly off, leaving us to pon
der the fact that we had "broken suction" from
-. .... ...... T..... lad, and now floated in the fresh
S .River.
As we enjoy our first sundowner, we watch and pho
tograph Scarlet Ibis, Brown Pelicans, Snowy Egrets
and Little Blue Herons landing and roosting on the
island. The Scarlet Ibises look like Christmas decora
tions on the mangrove islands.
We sleep with new wonderful jungle noises and wake
to howler monkeys calling nearby. I think I hear bar
nacles on the hull giving their last breath as they die
in the fresh water.
We are four boats: Arctic Tern, Asseance, Camille
and Good Time Charlie. I have named our fleet the
Macareo Meander. Bob on Good Time Charlie has been I
up this river twice before and we listen to his advice to
sneak I i, h, -I ,ii .. Barra Macareo Cosaria, so
we do : I I -'.,' I I I .11 of our trade goods at this
village of about 300 people. We don't manage to actu
ally sneak past, but we decline to trade and tell them
that we will be back in a few weeks.
The river is broad, about half a mile across, and silty.
We minimize the one to three knot current by staying
close to the shore and on the insides of bends. The
bird, I ...... I '..... i-. .i andthat makes
me h. 1 i ... nd three canoes
come to greet us and ask us for "cambio," the word
used for trade. Blue and Yellow Macaws are flying over
the house platform. We trade T shirts and shampoo for
a few small baskets and beaded necklaces.
Continued on next page

Good Time Charlie has been up this river twice before









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Continued from previous page
By the end of the day we pass another settlement
and, to our great surprise, a pink sun hat is a hit.
More beaded necklaces are offered and traded for
toothbrushes and toothpaste, more T-shirts, maga
zines, fish hooks and D-cell batteries. Several boating
magazines and newspapers have just increased their
circulation. National Geographic magazines are popu
lar -everyone loves to look at the photos of animals
and other neonle.


The people living on Macareo River are Wareo
Indians and are called the "Canoe People." That is an
apt name. The Wareo houses are platforms built only
a few feet above the river. Hammocks, baskets and
bags hang from the structure and hold the posses
sions of the occupants. Most of the house platforms
have no walls. The canoes are hollowed-out logs and it


is hard not to notice that some are very leaky. In many
respects the Wareo live as they have for centuries, but
change is coming fast.
Bob provides us with a sense of what has changed
since his last visit three years ago. Several of the set
elements now have some buildings with tin roofs and
there are many more outboard motors. The larger set
elements also have generatcre Th- m--mrnm nt hle
provided the generators and 11 .. i .. l .. .
need to find cash to buv the gas and oil. We are wit


nessing a profound change in this culture as they
move into the cash economy.
At several of the settlements we are asked for flour and
sugar since these food commodities are very scarce. We are
surprised that there is some interest in non-traditional
foods -more than we were led to believe from the notes
from previous cruisers. This is more evidence of change.


The traditional foods come from the river and the
land. Palm trees provide hearts of palm, moriche (a
fruit of the palm) and a paste that is made into flour
for baking bread. Fish is the main source of protein
with the occasional addition of river turkeys (horned
screamers), wild boar and caiman. The settlements
that have dry land have chickens and pigs. There is lit
tle organized gardening because it does not work well
in this seasonally inundated environment. Many of the
people living in the settlements in the lower 20 miles


Above: We spent a portion of almost every day, and
sometimes whole days, exploring side canos


Left: Scarlet Ibises roosting for the night;
the bird watching is best near the shore



of the river move upriver in the dry season because the
river becomes salty without rain and the constant
influx of fresh water.
One morning we invite a young fisherman aboard for
a cup of coffee. We show him a National Geographic
and he recognizes elephants, but not zebras.
Continued on next page







Continuedfrom previous page
It is hard to know how much of the outside world the
Wareo are familiar with -why elephants and not
zebras? There are two schools in the first 60 miles and
many more settlements. Many of the children do not


about ten, manage their boats almost flawlessly. When
they have an out-of-control moment there is much gig
gling and chatting. We all laugh.
Most of the people we trade with understand and
speak Spanish and, since I am the only Spanish


Wareo houses are platforms built only afew feet above the river


n-- ti,- n--.nnt. -f -h--1n- ^t P--1. 1. P-1. (1-.1-
c I I .. . I I 1i 1. I. . I I I 1h II ... I
give him a notebook and pencil for each of his 28 stu
dents. His primary curriculum is to teach the children
to speak "Venezuelan" (Spanish). All along the river chil
dren ask for cuaderno and lapiz (notebook and pencil).
It is comical to see a canoe coming toward us with
.i. i i ..... .ii ,. outfit. Oneboyis paddling
I' I .. .... 1i bailing. They ask for libros
(books). Young kids in canoes, whose combined age is


RENAISSANCE
MAINA


speaker in our fleet of cruisers, I do a lot of translate
ing. But, truth be known, this whole trip could be
done with minimal Spanish, good skill in charades,
and a big smile. We are floating trading posts. The
number one request is for flanelas (T-shirts) and a
very close second is tela -fabric for making dresses.
Scraps or small pieces will not do. A dress requires at
least a yard and a half of cloth, depending on its
width, and maybe more for a larger woman.
As we float by a settlement, the experienced traders


.h~ h.I MJl~ . j..rl 'lIl I*.~..1b,.,9..)


.rrlra jr ::: i..'irdn -it J-h. J '*I'ril h.d1'.I
>X llJ ^II '...^'Dt:. H E j.jip^~-ji[~ i'f ^
MA.irll Wo I tIu4w. pafutl u1 lawI h iltlw Uftl As8 1 I:
q ft m a0 jthi th p4(inqw w* leJrcml rnmynf'l ?inB 1h b rFN


come dashing out in their canoes and set a course to
meet us at our boats. I don't know if the Wareo have
learned to approach sailboats carefully and use the
side with the fenders, or it is just good boat sense, but
they are very careful and i, I .1 ,i i .. ..
The old hands at cambio I ,.... I I I' "i'i
would like to acquire. We see toothbrushes that look
worse than the old brush I use for cleaning stainless
steel. Toothpaste tubes that have been slit open and
the contents carefully scraped out serve as models for
their needs. By the end of the trip we have all scoured
our lockers for extra toothpaste, toothbrushes, sham
poo and bars of soap. We can re-provision in Trinidad.
I, Ih.. wears us out and we are happy for an early
SI the evening. We spend a portion of almost
every day, and sometimes whole days, exploring side
canos. These are the side streams and old river chan
nels off of the main river. Some of the canos offer a
welcome change from the silty water of the main Rio
Macareo. Some of the canos are deep and open enough
to allow us to take the big boats up them. Cano
Tucupita has access to the Rio Macareo at both ends,
so on our way back down river we follow it and do not
retrace our up-the-mainstream route.
We spend three days in this 18-mile stretch of river.
01.. -- -rn-"n i- my husband, Hunter, ...." i,,1
fi 1... I... .. I of the Cano Tucupita. i. -i
some men in a motor canoe if the fish were piranha and
they say yes and that piranha are very good to eat. Cano
Nabasanuca is very open and deep and we take the big
boats up about five miles, where we anchor for a swim
and lunch. The bird-watching is excellent and the lack
of silt in the tannin-brown water makes for a nice swim.
Hoatzins fascinate all of us. These primitive birds
look like something in the chicken or pheasant family
that is having a very bad hair day. They have a spiky
crest and our ;., ,i , ii ... i ...* an outstretched
hand on top ... ,. II ....- eat leaves of the
giant arum plant and are found only in swampy or
other locations where these grow. The young have a
claw on each wing that assists them in climbing
around in vegetation, and when disturbed or fright
ened the young simply drop into the water, swim to
safety and climb back into the jungle. The claw and
ability to swim are lost as they grow into adults.
Although these are shy birds they do not hide well
because of falling young and the noise of the adults
clambering about the leaves. They appear a bit clum
sy, but we find them hard to photograph.
Continued on next page


..r-" t S -.* al ,-..i ' f-. I .. I 1 r *' I- *f..'r 1


*+ c Il r, ,lr, .. l u11+ Lm L Irl li lk" +i ll 'i +I. II ~u

i; nhirwN Ci.r, r-r io vunn i's tO 1 nir..s t a4 Wlr ty p quip.
tnnfl*


Tt [>3IT) II aMO 5 5 : Fs 4i -0s l O *[- calmMflII B l I Chirt 16 I I Mn ( hartllw. Omlo rt 4







Continued from previous page
Towards the end of the three weeks, we are begin
ning to run low on trade goods and we dig deep into
our lockers and our creativity. The little kids often ask
for bombs and our supply of balloons is low. Hey, we
all know the trick of blowing up a latex glove and tying
it off and calling it a chicken. We show the kids how to
make bombas de gallo (rooster balloons). More giggling
erupts from the kids.
We are very aware that our presence has an impact
upon the Wareo. Many needs that they feel are in a
large part brought on by the intrusion of modem socie
ty. The government has been involved in the villages


during the last two years. Tin roofs, generators, out
boa] i i ... .... 1. .i11 Drkers are chang
ing i. i .i. ... i ii, .. i i river, mangroves
and forest have sustained them for years, probably cen
tries, so one could argue that they do not need sham
poo and T-shirts, but you can also see that this is a cul
ture involved in the steep .. i 1. 1, .... ... i i
opment" curve. W e try to ...... 11n.1 ... ... ... i
make a positive impact on the Wareo culture.
During our time on the river we make use of the
Rio Macareo navigation package that was put togeth
er by other cruisers in 1999 and recently updated. It


is now available at the Members Only Maxi Taxi
Service office (Jesse James) in Chaguaramas. The
text is very useful and accurate and we used the
chartlets in the i .1 -.
This is not a "- I 1 .. Not all bottom paint
will remain effective after a prolonged immersion in
fresh water. (It would be a shame to ruin that new bot
tom paint in a few quick weeks on the river.) Most
importantly, you need to be self-sufficient. There is no
place to re-supply. You are the chandlery, grocery and
hardware store. You are also the mechanic and the
doctor. Our trip was during the rainy season and
there were bugs. We on the four yachts had our "sun













Exploring the Orinoco Delta
by yacht is a radical
change from Lesser
a Antilles island hopping.
SYou must be completely
self sufficient




downers" and shared meals at mid day in order to
avoid the evening onslaught of mosquitoes. Bob had
made his previous trips in the dry season and he said
that the overall number of mosquitoes was lower in
the dry season. But the upper canos and lagoons def
initely supported healthy mosquito populations even
in the dry season.
I have many wonderful photos and memories of the
Rio Macareo -and by the way, the barnacles did die.

Devi and her husband Hunter are currently exploring
the Caribbean in their sailboat Arctic Tern.


www.antigua-marina.com falmar@candw.ag Tel: +1 268 460 6054 Fax: +1 268 460 6055


STORESTS GUDS
AR -OR -CONOMI-A-



Write my -nato ih5 yaso aln


REAL SAILORS
BUY STREET'S GUIDES

Real sailors use Street's Guides for inter-island and harbor
piloting directions, plus interesting anecdotes of people,
places and history. Street's Guides are the only ones that
describe ALL the anchorages in the Eastern Caribbean.

Real sailors also buy the other guides, that have pretty
pictures and describe hotels, bars, restaurants and
anchorages that are popular with bareboaters.

Real sailors circle in Street's Guide the anchorages that
are not described in the other guides. This enables them
to find quiet anchorages far from "The Madding Crowd".

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at bookshops and chandleries, or from
www.iUniverse.com and www.seabooks.com















EXPLORING EAST VIEQUES

by John St. John
. .. .. .. .. .. .....E E


I had taken off from Culebra for Vieques to check out
a neat bay on the eastern end, a former military prac
twice range where our good US government bombed and
strafed from the 1950s until just a few years ago.
Bahia Icacos has a tricky entrance between a small
island and a coral reef. I pulled in on a Wednesday to
a beautiful bay with no one else there. I was walking
forward to anchor when a truck pulled up on shore
and the uniformed guy got out and kindly explained
that they were defusing unexploded ordnance and I
was not allowed to anchor there except on the week
ends. I motored back out between the reefs and set
sail west for Isabella Segunda, the small capital of
Vieques. It was a smooth sail with a southeast wind
coming over the island holding me just offshore of the
extensive reef system.
So, on a weekend, I took off again to visit the
bombed end of Vieques, sailing a light east wind the
eight miles south across Vieques Sound. As I neared
Bahia Icacos, I was disappointed to see not one, but


seven large sportfishermen already in the anchorage
behind the reef. As I closed with the island, three more
big sportfishermen pulled in. Now, I am always one for
a party and have raised a fair amount of hell in my
time, but few hold a candle to the party power of the
Puerto Rican. They can drink and yell and play loud
music all night from their big boat stereos and then go
to sleep in their ice castles with their generators run
ning all night to keep them cool. Not what I was look
ing for in the least.
As I sailed into the harbor, I noticed the next bay to
the east was empty. Although my chart showed a con
tinuous reef enclosing the bay, with the sun overhead
I could clearly see a narrow pass in through the reef. I
doused the sails and went for it under power. Just
then, a giant plume of cloud lifted up from some boil
ing cumulus hanging over Vieques, making eyeball
navigation way less exact. I had a good picture in my


mind from before the cloud, though, and went on in
with memory and the depth sounder. Spinning the
boat around in a tight circle to smooth the water for a
look, I found good bottom in seven feet of water over
grass and dropped the plow. There was almost no
wind and I saw a big dark spot about 50 yards behind
the boat and decided to ... . i .1. iothe east
was a large sheer cliff ol I I II i going out
into a precipice like a small Rock of Gibraltar.
After lunch of raw onion and -.1-1 sandwiches
with hummus, I rowed ashore to :.. I i i class sand
L- rr lin;si; t- bbeach. There were also big signs say
. 1.1 i i i with graphic depictions of exploding
,Ii i I i that the roads were safe, as I had
seen the guards driving on them, so I headed off for a
..i i i i .1 .1 .... r of the island, walking only on
Continued on next page


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VIRGIN GORDA YACHT HARBOUR
Virgin Gorda
Mrin.a 0 Full Service Marina Facility

















Our facility located in the heart of beautiful Virgin Gorda comprises
a 111-slip marina and a boatyard with 12 acres of dry storage space
offering insurance approved hurricane pits to secure your vessel
during hurricane season.
Onsite amenities and services include a bank/ATM, a supermarket,
chandlery, restaurant, bakery, clothing store, dive shop, phone and
fax facilities, free wireless internet access, fuel, water and ice,
laundry facilities, and an office of the BVI Tourist Board all in
a pristine and relaxing environment BVI Customs and immigration
located within convenient walking distance.
Tel: 284 495-5500 Fax: 284 495-5706
284 495-5318 284 495-5685
Web: www.vgmarina.biz
VHF Ch: 16


Li







Continued from previous page
There were bomb craters everywhere and no trees of
any large size. The landscape here is gently rolling and
I noticed port-o-potties everywhere -more than in
most public parks. I guess defusing dud bombs can
have an adverse effect on the sphincter muscle.
There were plenty of roads running every direction and
sharp-edged shrapnel everywhere, including on the





l 0


Below left: Peaceful
landscapes contrast with the
island's former role as a
bombing practice site
Right: Searching for solitude,
our correspondent found an
unusual spot to anchor at
Bahia Salinas


40 \ZO
4o
CAO \ /
HONDO SLAS SYALLS
-'


CERRO
MATIAS


roads. As I came around a curve, I discovered three low
sided steel boxes full of bombs and mortars. My deter
mination to stay on the roads was certainly strength
ened. I climbed to the top of the yellow cliff to survey the
boat, now that the sun had returned, and learned I had
anchored just ahead of a small isolated inner reef.
I headed back down into the valley and as I was
crossing to the south side of the island, I passed what
appeared to be a simulated truck convoy made up of
old heavy construction equipment -bulldozers, road
graders, pay loaders, tractors and such. It stretched for
a quarter of a mile and had had the literal living
(rhymes with skit) shot out of it. Large iron castings
were shattered, hard steel-cogged drive wheels three
feet in diameter and five inches thick were broken like
cheap china, giant diesel engines were smashed and
thrown clear of the vehicles and every piece of sheet
.-t1l ; --;.; i i: was ripped and perforated with bullet
S i .11 (Swiss cheese has fewer holes).
On the south shore I climbed a hill where a large
Sherman tank had sat for years on a promontory. This
had always been a landmark when sailing down the


south side of Vieques. The tank was now in the
process of being dismantled with a cutting torch, the
parts placed in a big pile of scrap. The large air-cooled
engine and transmission had been removed, the turret
had been cut off, and the gun barrel had been cut up
like :.*.:- links. They had started cutting up the
body I 1. lank where the metal was easily one and a
half inches thick. Somebody was going through a
bunch of tanks of oxygen.
Then it was back across the island by a different
route, skirting a large dried-up salt pond with craters
of dark blue-green water pocked throughout. I :.....
they would make great hot-tub mineral baths, i i .
the exotic metals in the explosives probably lingering
in the water.
I headed back towards the boat down the road run
ning beside all of the sportfishermen, and over the hill
to my boat's anchorage. Just as I was crossing the last
hill, I heard a truck coming up behind me and figured
I was screwed -caught trespassing red-handed. And
I had been so close to getting away with it! I had


1b518 5 72 66





,.





ANCHOR 50 YARDS
11.


OFF YELLOW SieN
IN 1OOFr O SAND








i ,'


always wondered about the big red-and-white lookout
tower in the middle of the island on the highest hill,
and was looking at the bright side of being arrested by
figuring that I would be taken there and at least get to
see it.
The guy pulls up beside me and rolls down his win
dow. I say "Hi!" He is a nice-looking Hispanic in a
guard uniform. He looks at me with a smile and says
in Spanish-accented English, "Stay on the roads!"
Apparently the east Vieques mantra! I agreed to do so,
saying that I figured if he could drive on them, I could
walk on them. And that was that. He drives on and I
walk on, still a free man and still always willing to take
a chance.
Back to the boat for a swim on my private little reef,
just off the stern, where I saw plenty of sea life include
ing large yellowtail worthy o -+-.--1i;- Then a beau
tiful sunset with the yellow 1.11 1.1 .' by the red set
ting sun and a quiet night with all the sportfish noise
and lights downwind behind the hill.
Fair winds, and remember "Stay on the road!"


IT'S MUCH MORE

THAN A MARINA: IT'S HOME!
Simpson
Ma n


% *ap rt-


Over and over again our guests refer to our marina as their "Home"!
Join us this summer and continue to enjoy the hospitality.

WE OFFER:
24 hour security
120 concrete slip berths
SElectricity: 220V/ 50amp; 110V/300amps
(single phase and three phase)
16ft channel
Fuel dock and bunkering
SFree satellite TV at each slip
STelephone hook-up
Shower facilities
SWireless internet, banks and laundry within the complex
Pick-up and drop-off from major supermarkets
We monitor VHF channels 16 & 79A (alpha American system)
P.O. Box 4540, Airport Road, Sint Maarten, N.A., Caribbean
Tel: 599-5442309 Fax: 599-5443378
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Chacachacare:


A TROPICAL


GHOST TOWN


by Jo-Anne Sewlal

Of the 14 islands off the northwestern coast of Trinidad, Chacachacare is the
largest and westernmost. Presently, Chacachacare is relatively uninhabited (light-
house keepers are present), as are most of the other Bocas Islands. Although most
of these islands have been inhabited at some time, Chacachacare remains the best
known, because of the leper colony placed there in the 1920s.
I first visited the island during a Tropical Island Ecology field trip, as an undergrad. We
camped in the abandoned Nun's Quarters at Marine Bay on the north side of the island.
I fell in love with the island. What attracted me was that it is a huge ghost town, with
eroding roads and abandoned houses in various stages. What events they have seen!
Besides homes, there were once hospitals and quarters for the nuns and doctors
that cared for the lepers. There were also Catholic and Anglican churches and a
Hindu temple for East Indian patients. There was a jail and a cinema; sadly all that
is left of it is some of the equipment. Not much is left of many of the buildings except
for their foundations along with some concrete stairs. Don't be surprised to see a
solitary set of stairs or a flat pad of concrete when you are walking in the bush.
iver


Chacachacare boasts the only salt pond in Trnidad & Tobago


There are a few cemeteries on the island. Except for the small, well-kept one near
the nuns' quarters, they have gotten covered with vegetation and their exact loca
tions are not known.
During World War II, a battalion of US Marines was stationed here and nine bar
racks were built to house them; three around the convent area in Marine Bay, one
at Perruquier Bay in the east, three around the lighthouse, and two above Rust's
Bay, also in the east. These sites were given back to the Trinidad & Tobago
Government in 1947. Small portions of the buildings remain, as well as some deep
1;; .-1 ---rete ammunition dumps.
i ... entire island abandoned? Let me give you a brief history of the island.
The first inhabitants were the Amerindians and evidence of their presence was
found in middens at Sanders Bay on the south side. By 1777 there were no more
Amerindians and the Spanish had settled on the island and established sea island
cotton plantations. You can see remnants of the plantations in clumps of cotton
trees along the way from Sanders Bay to Marine Bay. Cotton disappeared as a com-
mercial crop sometime around 1850 and was replaced by whaling, which only last
ed for 50 years. However, ruins of the old whaling establishment at Bulmer's Bay on
the southwest of the island are still seen today, in particular the rail tracks that were
used to pull the whales up on land to extract the meat.
All the while Chacachacare was growing and was once home to 300 people. In
1921 all this changed when the government of Trinidad decided to turn the island
into a leper colony and evicted the inhabitants. The island was chosen because of
its isolation, .. ....- i1. ... I 11. lepers spreading the disease. In September
1984, after tl. ...I. i, .. .. -..I treatment by multi-drug therapy, the last
of the lepers were sent home.
If you spend a few days on the island you will get the feel of life here during the
last century. There is no freshwater source, so former inhabitants depended on the
rain. If you are camping or boating, bring your own.
Camping can only be done by permission of the 'i-. .... ... Development
Authority (www.chagdev.com). If you intend to camp in .. I In ... ny abandoned
buildings, exercise caution as they may be unstable the roof could come crashing
down on you. This caution should be extended ,,, i ...1 i .. ., plan to explore,
as most floors are wooden and parts have decay I .11 11 eventually all the
buildings will be taken over by the vegetation and nature will reclaim what was hers.
Because of its once relatively large population, the island had a network of roads.
Those inland have become trails, while most of the coastal roads have eroded and
fallen into the sea. If you come ashore to explore, you'll see that the trails are paved
with asphalt. In some places, where the asphalt has eroded, pieces of coral are vis
ible. Coral was used as gravel when the roads were constructed.
Continued on next page







Continued from previous page
(This is also seen in such areas in Trinidad as Point Gourde on the northwestern
coast.) This is all that is left of these roads. Most of the verges have been taken over
by shrubs and short vegetation. The only maintained road leads to the lighthouse,
which is functioning.


Above: What attracted me was that it is a huge ghost town...
Below: Except for the small, well kept one near the nuns' quarters, the cemeteries
are covered with vegetation


One road takes you past a natural wonder of the island: the salt pond. Many of the
smaller islands in the Lesser Antilles, such as St. Kitts and Anguilla, have numerous
salt ponds; however, this is the only place you will find one in Trinidad & Tobago.
Most of Chacachacare's vegetation is desert-type. There are also vultures, and it is
common to see a vulture sitting on a cactus or on old electricity lines, adding to the
ghost-town atmosphere. To me, this is part of the fascination of the island.
After hiking, enjoy a swim on one of the beaches. Many are shallow for many
metres before ending in a sharp drop, perfect for people who cannot swim or just
want to laze in the sea.
So, whether you are a visitor or a local of our shores, if you get the urge to visit a
ghost town, why not try our Caribbean version?

GETTING THERE
Sounds good so far? But how do you get to this island?
For locals and land-based visitors, the usual way is by water taxi. This can be
expensive, but the larger the group, the lower the cost per person. On my visits to
Chacachacare, we have docked at the small jetty at the Nuns' Quarters at Marine
Bay and the larger jetty at Sanders Bay.












"* ,





You can also sail to Chacachacare in your own boat. It's about five miles from the
yachting centre of Chaguaramas to the island. There are four or five anchorages in
Chacachacare Bay.
i1,. i Chris Doyle's Cruising Guide to Trinidad and Tobago (third edition):
. Bay offers excellent cruising.... The wind tends to blow from either
the southeast or the northeast, so one side is often more protected and you have to
be prepared for a change in wind direction. The bay is very deep, and when it shelves
it does so rapidly. The distance between anchoring depth and aground may be less
than 100 feet. Therefore it pays to approach any anchorage cautiously.... Sanders
Bay probably offers the best all-round anchorage."


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MUSTI UE



TRAILWAYS

Think Mustique and most people's minds will turn to the rich and famous.
However, as the other Grenadine islands get taken over by a ., I i,11., and
house-building frenzy, Mustique might soon be better known as .. I ,I. least
spoilt and most natural of the Grenadine islands; a place where you can hike or
bike or wander in peace -through an often wild landscape.
The Mustique Comr i-;-- --- i-. ..n -r th- i-l.n-1 is owned by the landowners,
who have decided to :...,,, I .......I I 1. ..- .. -. I Lovell Village to 90. By lim-
iting the supply of houses, they have shown that you can not only preserve the envi











.6--






You can start from the anchorage at Britannia Bay and walk to beautiful,
undeveloped places
ronment but do well in real estate. House prices there are not in millions of dollars,
but in tens of millions of dollars.
I i ,i i.. i. visitors are welcome to wander the roads and use the trails, a
Si 1 11 ,, from some newer and brasher developments that use "keep out"
signs and guardhouses to stop you getting anywhere on the property.
Yachtspeople would do well: : ,,I ,, I, i ,,,
them to search for the rich .., i I .... ... .. I 1 . i .,, I ... I
great trails in the conservation areas. The wonderful thing is that you can start
right from the anchorage at Britannia Bay and walk to beautiful, undeveloped
places. The following will help you find your way.
The Salt Pond Trail (45 minutes to an hour)
Our first exploration led us southward along the shore. We soon left the spank
ing new road and found ourselves on a coastal pathway with palms and beach.
There comes a point at which the salt pond almost touches the beach. Here we
found ourselves on the salt pond trail, which goes right round the lagoon. A side
trail leads to a cute observation blind with seats and windows, where you can hang
out with binoculars and identify any birds. (We did not have our binoculars, but we
saw a fine gecko inside on the ceiling.)
The path emerges in Lagoon Bay with a perfect swimming beach. We continued
east along T 7--n Bay to the roadway where the trail starts again round the east
and north I I the pond. Way back through the mangroves you catch glimpses
of the Mustico work buildings. This helped with orientation on our next day's walk.
A clearing allowed us to see sandpipers and a whimbrel. They have several signs on
trees so you can add black, white, and button mangrove to the red mangrove you
probably already know.
East Coast Hike (three to three and half hours).
The next morning we set out on a more ambitious hike that would cover the south
ern and wildest third of the island. We left the boat at 0715 hours, and would not
have wanted to start out later as, by the time we got back, the day was getting hot.
The first part was on road; it was shady and cool, and we saw our first red-legged
tortoise of the day ambling along the roadside. We followed the road south back
towards Lagoon Bay, but this time stayed on the road rather than following the
beach, which meant going one block east.
After 20 minutes or so, there comes a point as you get close to the salt pond,
where you see first a works driveway on your right, and the road down to Lagoon
Bay. At this point the . i ,i 1,ii .,, i -I two gateposts in either side -uphill
past the posts is the I I .. -1 the main road, it is hard to go wrong
until you come to a i,. 1 i iI ..... *., 1, orner of this turn is a concrete shed
and a cattle grid goes across the road. Turn left here. If you fail to do this, you will
come to Obsidian House; an indication you have missed it.
It is uphill again, but early in the morning, it is shady and c 1 ... i .1 ;
house on your right. Here you have a choice of roads: take the - i I, i
which is a dirt road. This leads to Obsidian Bay where there is -, i. .
servation area." It took us about 45 minutes to walk to this point, including time for
getting lost and taking plenty of photos.
From here we followed the remains of an old road over to the east coast and head
ed north along the trail. It is very wild and beautiful, with hundreds of barrel cac
tus and small plants bent to the wind. Tortoises became so commonplace that we
stopped photographing them.
The trail is poorly marked and we went astray several times, but often we could
see a bit of trail ahead and :'.'" I ',t how to rejoin it. We followed a false trail
right down to the coast clos, I ,1 Island and had to cut back inland to get
back on the real thing.
Continued on next page


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Continued from previous page
At the headland just before Pasture Bay, we failed to find a coastal path over the
headland (if there is one), and found ourselves instead climbing a well-made path
back to the road. We were happy about this, because just as we saw the road, we
also saw another trail that led back down to a roofed seating shelter with a perfect
view of Pasture Bay.
An excellent shady trail led us from this shelter down to the beach. We had now
been walking two and a half hours, and my original plan was ,,, ...... ,. ,
beach and over the headland to Macaroni Bay, which is great .- ........... I. ,


MUSTIQUE

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I __ __ _


cannot swim in Pasture Bay as the currents are too strong.) But even at this time
of the morning, the sun was heating up and we decided instead to head west on the
shady roads over the center of the island back to Britannia Bay. We were back in
time to buy Maranne's Ice Cream at the coffee shop.
There are other trails in the northeast of Mustique that I have not explored, but
they are on my "to do" list.

Below: The red legged tortoise is Mustique's unofficial mascot


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TAITRU E CBTTUE, CS. R JE TGEORG NTES


very sailor caters to good luck by keeping all
boat systems in good condition and the radio
and cell phone charged and ready. We all
should practice safety by wearing harnesses when out
on deck and having life jackets and fire ... 1. -
at the ready. Also it is for good reason 11. 1... i-
should know our itinerary when making passages,
should we go lost.
Butwhat if bad luck i.. ... ... .. .
or ashore, and no one i. .. 1 ,
assistance is required, do you know a doctor? Will
insurance help?


(Industrial Marine Services).
As perhaps a premonition, the Sea Cow stalled
- it-Fi;; ti- Bocas. Its Perkins had only cut out once
S ... water in the fuel. Not knowing the tides
and currents, I frantically bled the injectors, sent
flares as fishing vessels passed, and called the
Coasties. All I got was nauseous. Then she started as
if of her own mind.
Sea Cow was on the hard at IMS the same day.
That was the seventh of December and every mechan-
ical and cosmetic repair was completed in just ten
days. It was the holiday season and I didn't know any


*B y fyrff I 9Tf
rD14


There are times when bad luck can actually be good.
Better the halyard sticks going up rather than coming
down. Better the engine doesn't start when you're
anchored at a crowded harbor with mechanics available.
I never believed in insurance. My Sea Cow is unsink
able, as my many instances of negligence have proven.
Life insurance is another 'sure' bad bet, as no one ben
efits from their own policy, but it makes life easier for
a -lIri-in f-- Then there's health insurance. Who
ca .. i 1 Would it really put me in good hands
when I needed them?
Then there are friends. Having good friends has been
my best insurance. This isn't really about insurance or
accidents, but about Trinidad, a very good place to
find friends.
My serious bad luck started with Hurricane Lenny in
1999. The old Sea Cow took severe licks hooked
behind the not-so-protective Sandy Island of
Carriacou. After weathering the reverse seas I needed
a proper boatyard. Tyrell Bay didn't really seem to
have an operating one then, St. David's in Grenada
was too remote, and at that time Spice Island was too
cramped. I turned south for Chaguaramas and IMS


Above: Folks like Tanty Elsie are a major reason why I
fell in love with Trinidad
Left: Calypso King of the World, the Mighty Sparrow,
at the Mas Camp Pub in Port of Spain during last
year's Carnival
one in Trinidad. As soon as a new zinc came for my
prop shaft, I planned to head back to buddies in
Prickly Bay, Grenada, and then on to Old Year's Night
at Basil's Bar in Mustique.
It was late afternoon on Saturday, one week before
Christmas. I rented a ten-year old Nissan Sentra for
the weekend to tour around Trinidad. It was a dusky
five in the afternoon and Western Main Road was
empty as I turned into Tropical Marine.
I awakened in Port of Spain Hospital. I didn't know
what happened. I didn't know that Trini drivers are great
at overtaking cars making signaled turns. My right
shoulder was dislocated. A later look showed the Sentra
had saved my life. The seat belt did its job better than
my shoulder. If I had literally been two seconds further
into the turn it would have been gonzo for Ralph.
I was stretchered on the hospital floor, a spotless
floor. After the nurse told me I'd been in an auto acci
dent, I explained I .. ...... 1 ... 1. 1 .sI had no
pain, but it would ... -1. I, i ,1 a syringe
of Darvon and I joked that that was for women's
monthlies. It was then that nurse put my life at that
moment in perfect perspective. "Sir, you are in the
Third World. You will take what T-- "
Being a tourist, I expect I got I ..i. I treatment
and within an hour I had X-rays and then was wheeled
to a room with two doctors, a man and a woman. The
man explained my right arm had serious problems and
repair would require a specialist. They then set my
shoulder and sent me on my way. Absolutely no
charge! Socialized health care got my immediate vote.
Then I realized all of my papers were in my rucksack
stowed in the trunk of the now smashed rental car. All my
engine oil, filters, and spares were also in there. Oh well,
that all could be sorted out -the least of my worries.
Continued on next page


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I ndw1d SrWIMg!!1I:IEW







Continued from previous page
After a painful, restless night I went to Sinclair
Private Nursing Facility and the doctor there said
nothing could be done to repair the damaged tendons
holding the shoulder joint together. I did get a better
pain prescription.
The following evening, the police from the Carenage
Station requested I make a formal statement as to
what I remembered about the accident. I walked with
.. 1 ..... ... 1. 1 .. to and from that police station
.11 I ii, ,i. T hassles. That probably would
n't happen in today's Trinidad. The father of the young
driver who hit me was also there and said the accident
was my fault since as a foreigner I had no right to be
on Trinidad roads.
Liability started to raise its head. The rental car sat,
bent and irreparable, at the station's gate. Then the
car rental company actually tore up my credit card
slip so I didn't owe them anything.
I tried to move the light aluminum ladder : -1.
alongside the Cow and pulled my shoulder I
joint. In a grimacing maneuver a la Mel Gibson in
Lethal Weapon 1, I pushed it back into place against
my boat. I knew with certainty that unless my should
der got some magic, my boating days were finished
and life as I knew it would change dramatically. If I
couldn't hold a ladder, I couldn't reel in a fish, pull an
anchor, or lift a dive tank.
I didn't know a doctor anywhere, in the islands or
stateside. My shoulder needed specialized attention,
yet that was probably not affordable.
Then came the friends. I returned to Tropical Marine
and re-met Mike Lancer, the man I was told had
pulled me from the wreck. We had previously played
some pool at Tropical's Wheelhouse Saloon along with
his brother Mark, and fellow fisherman Derick.
Another cruiser at the dock had my rucksack and told
me who was holding my box of parts and oil.
Everything was returned with smiles of pleasure that
I had actually survived the accident.




















And yes, Trinidad does have palm trees
and beaches, too...

Again, the Caribbean's rule of, "It's not who you
know, but who you drink with" came into action.
While sucking down some libations, Mike Lancer's
father, John, the owner of Tropical Marine, put me on
to Trinidad's foremost orthopedic surgeon, Dr.
Louisang, who was also an avid fisherman. The Doctor
said he could bring back my arm, but it would take an
operation and at least three months of recuperation.
It worked, with no scar. Three months went on to five
before my shoulder tendons were healed enough that
the screw implanted in my shoulder could be removed.
The doctor laughed when I said I wanted the screw.
"Probably so cheap a yachtie you're going to reuse it
on your boat," he said. "No," I told him. "As I've never
married, this is the most expensive screw of my life!"
Actually my total Trinidad physical repairs, with
apartment rental, came to less than US$3,000! My arm
was almost as good as new. The Cow would sail again!
In those five months I fell in love with Trinidad. For
good reasons, I had to rent an apartment away from
the toxic boatyard environment. Maxi drivers would
drop their 'hire' sign and take me directly to my doc
tor's office. I tried to walk everywhere and met with no
problems. No one tried to .-1 I. .-.t.-- f n- condi
tion. I became a regular a, I -", iI '' I limes
and Smokey and Bunty's, and knew every one of the
many green spaces Port of Spain has to offer. The
Savannah, with the more-than-adequate zoo, botani
cal gardens, art and history museum, coconut water,
and shark-and-bakes, occupied many afternoons.
Once my arm healed, I rented cars and headed to the
end of every road on the island as none go all the way
round Trinidad.
Through another quirk of fate, I got referred to prob
ably the only Trinidad attorney who would handle my
accident/insurance claim on contingency. Those tall
buildings in Port of Spain weren't built because insur
ance companies easily pay claims. I won the case after
twoand a halfye i i I ,I .. I
tration I have to: i .,
for four years so far!)
Next month: In Trinidad today.








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ii. ...... i ween Caribbean Islands with a favorable tide will make your
I 1 ... I i. )mfortable. The table below, courtesy Don Street author of
i I "i "of Imray-Iolaire charts, which shows the time of the meridian
, 111 1, lie moon for this and next month, will help you calculate the tides.
Se generally tries to run toward the moon. Th 1 ,,....... II.
the east soon after moonrise, continues to run east until about ,. I... 'I .. ...
reaches Its zenith (see TIME below) and then runs we I .. I , ...I..
,. I, I ,i, , nadir, the tide runs eastward; ... I I i
, ,, ,i,. 11, 1 runs w I 1 Ti,... . ... local.
I . .... tide Is I 1 .11 II. w and full moons.
For more information, see' I I. .... ..i .. Ie back of all Imray lolaire charts.
Fair tides!
February 2008 21 2342 11 1521
DATE TIME 22 0000 12 1620
1 0723 23 0007 13 1721
2 0814 24 0057 14 1823
3 0907 25 0135 15 1924
4 1000 26 0217 16 2021
5 1053 27 0259 17 2123
6 1153 (new) 28 0342 18 2202
7 1232 29 0427 19 2247
8 1320 20 2330
9 1406 March 2008 21 0000 (full)
10 1453 DATE TIME 22 0012
11 1541 1 0656 23 0054
12 1632 2 0748 24 0136
13 1737 3 0841 25 0221
14 1825 4 0932 26 0307
15 1927 5 1022 27 0356
16 2029 6 1110 28 0447
17 2130 7 1158 (new) 29 0539
18 2226 8 1246 30 0630
19 2319 9 1335 31 0721
20 0000 (full) 10 1426


My husband and I have been sailing on our 37-foot catamaran, Jacumba, for one
year now, which leads to a little introspection.
One reason I wanted to become a cruiser was to experience the camaraderie of
other boaters, something I had read so much about. I'm a native New Yorker and
had gotten used to the anonymity that came with living there. I wanted to make
friends when I moved to Arizona but in 13 years, the only thing I learned about my
neighbors was what kind of car they drove. Thats all I ever saw of them, quietly slip
ping into and out of their garages. After more than a decade, I still knew no one out
side my work circle.
So when my husband and I decided it was time for a break from the usual and
bought a boat, I had great expectations of being drawn into a tight-knit community.
We had a strong desire to establish connections that could only be created between
i 1 i '.. similar adversities and adventures.
.. on the seas, I can happily say that I have not been disappoint
ed. When money was tight, boaters brought us leftovers and us canned goods
they knew they'd never eat. When we had a close call during a .. in the Bahamas
and questioned our right to be out here in i..- i *. ... raisers rallied, lift
ing our spirits and guaranteeing us that ot.. .. i i ..... i 1 would only grow if
we persevered. When we were hemming and hawing about where we should spend
hurricane season and getting the cold feet that lots of other boaters get, in
Georgetown, Bahamas (also called "chicken harbor" for that very reason), pals on a
trawler pushed us to head south, a decision we've never regretted.





IT'S A



Small WORLD
by Renee Petrillo

What's been really interesting though, is how often we see the same boats over and
over. Or how we meet other .... ..... i i '.. .. i .1. -i,,i -; we already have.
A typical example of this hap .. i I .. .. II i..i ... i .111 larbour, Bahamas,
we met a couple on Fine Line. Although we were in the anchorage together only a
short time, we continued to e-mail and read each other's blogs in order to keep tabs
on each other's whereabouts.
While we were in the British Virgin Islands, Anne on Fine Line told us to look out
for friends of theirs on Appleseeds, Eileen and Peter. -....... ... night motorsail
to St. Martin, we heard Appleseeds .... 1.i .1 I .. 11 ... I pleased to dis
cover that they too were on their w&. i I .. I -. .. i1, ,I ... out after a couple
of days and introduced ourselves and talked about our connection. We told them
where we had been and they wondered if we had crossed paths with Merengue.
Merengue?! We love those guys! So now we had something else in common.
We were then generously invited to meet up with them and other boaters who were
trying to catch a bus to Philipsburg and watch a parade. While we were waiting at























Just one year out, we have a group of new friends with whom we can explore and
share stories. We love these guys!


the dock, we saw another couple that looked familiar and realized that we had
helped them when their dinghy engine conked out in Salinas, Puerto Rico. What
were the chances? Turned out they were part of the crowd going to the parade, so
now we were going to get to know them better. Folks from two other boats rounded
out the troop and we had a new group of friends with whom we could explore and
share stories.
What's truly wonderful is that no matter what we do for each other -dinghy tows,
boat repairs, assistance during a drag -no one expects anything in return other
than that we help someone else in the future.
I've met more people in a year of sailing than I have in my past 42 years on land.
I've had my faith in humankind renewed over and over again. And you can't deny
that the "six degrees of separation" appears to be a true phenomenon, at least in the
world of cruising, although I haven't seen Kevin Bacon out here yet.









plenty of Heineken in evidence. This year, the dates for
this regatta are April 3rd through 6th.
The legendary Antigua Sailing Week (April 27th
through May 3rd, 2008) also has Heineken as a spon-
sor, as does the Puerto Rico Heineken Regatta.
Somewhat smaller events, such as the Bequia Easter
Regatta (see ad on page 14), also enjoy Heineken
sponsorship. And the Aruba Heineken Regatta, which
has been going on for 18 years, continues to push the
envelope in catamaran racing. This year, their regat-
ta will be held on November 13th through 21st.
Over the years, many of these regattas have
changed from small local races to large international
sailing events, resulting in visitor investment in many of
the Caribbean islands' economies.
Next Budget Marine Commodore's Cup, St. Maarten
Last year was the first year that the Budget Marine
Commodore's Cup (BMCC) was added to the St.
Maarten Heineken Regatta. It was a huge success,
with 58 entries. It was easily won by the Volvo 70 ABN
AMRO who shocked everyone with her speed as well
as the sailing abilities of her crew. The rest of the fleet
enjoyed tight racing with close results.
Budget Marine is pleased to be the title sponsor
of this added day and invites all eligible to partici-
pate this year on Thursday, March 6th, the day
before the start of the St. Maarten Heineken
Regatta, creating an extra day of racing for the
spinnaker classes.
The difference in the extra day lies in the courses.
The usual format at the regatta is for courses raced
along the coast to a destination, or all the way
around the island. During the BMCC, the courses will
be windward-leeward courses, always much more
competitive for the hard-core racers.
To sign up for the Budget Marine Commodore's
Cup and the Heineken Regatta
visit www.heinekenregatta. com
IRC Splash for Rolex Regatta, St. Thomas, USVI
The Notice of Race and on-line entry forms for this
year's regatta (March 28th through 30th) are now
available at www.rolexcupregatta.com. (Entries
before March 6th avoid a late fee!) The website also
has helpful travel information such as lodging options
in St. Thomas, and passport and visa needs.
IRC will make a big splash in the Caribbean this
year. The International Rolex Regatta joins the
President Cup and BVI Spring Regatta in offering IRC
and CSA classes. These three events make up the
southern circuit of the hotly contested 2008 US-IRC
Gulf Stream Series (GSS: www.yachtscoring.com).
John Sweeney, co-director of the International
Rolex Regatta claims, "There will be competitive rac-
ing under both the IRC and CSA rules. With the addi-
tion of IRC for 2008 we are encouraging a larger inter-
national fleet. We've had positive feedback from
both Stateside and European boats." Dockage for
the deeper-draft IRC boats can now be accommo-
dated by the new Yacht Haven Grande in Charlotte
Amalie (www.yachthavengrande.com). Sweeney
added that the International Rolex Regatta caters
not only to the handicapped racing yachts, but also
to Beach Cats and one-design sailboats 24 feet and
longer the most popular being the home-grown
IC24 fleet, which always has an impressive turnout.
"The regatta's popularity is attributable to its profes-
sional race management, dependable trade winds
and varied and challenging schedule of races,
including a mix of round-the-buoys and round-the-
islands courses that make for serious competition,"
said Sweeney.
After racing, beachside social activities blend St.
Thomas Yacht Club's island-style hospitality with the
outstanding camaraderie that hundreds of partici-
pants have come to expect each year.
For information on the regatta, visit www.rolex-
cupregatta.com or contact Co-Director Bill Canfield
at styc@vipowernetnet or phone (340) 775-6320.
For more information on the US-IRC and CSA, visit
www.us-irc org and www. caribbean-sailing com.
Combined 'Virgin Islands Race Week'
Giving sailors and their families another good rea-
son to put the International Rolex Regatta on their
holiday calendar is the opportunity to participate in
the inaugural Virgin Islands Race Week, presented by
the US Virgin Islands Department of Tourism. VI Race
Week bridges the International Rolex Regatta (March
28th through 30th) in St. Thomas, USVI, with the BVI
Spring Regatta & Sailing Festival (March 31st through
April 6th), hosted out of Tortola and Virgin Gorda, cre-
ating a "ten-day holiday" that offers both intense rac-
ing and quality family time. Sailors can customize their
vacations by mining and matching hard-core racing,
just-for-fun racing, and leisurely cruising with family
activities such as shopping and golf outings on St.
Thomas. There is no additional fee for entering, and
prizes will be awarded to the top overall IRC- and
CSA-handicapped yachts competing.
For more information contact Judy
atjudy@bvispringregatta.org.


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FEBRUARY 2008

Y ARIES (21 Mar 20 Apr)
The month starts with a continuation of the romantic bad
weather you slogged through last month. This should last
into the third week when the sun will finally break through.
d TAURUS (21 Apr 21 May)
The steady winds of romance will continue to fan the
flames of your desires until the 18th when they will join
your creativity on a downwind course.
] GEMINI (22 May 21 Jun)
Although communication may be weak and full of stat
ic, your creativity will be strong especially in Weeks Two
and Three when love sails in to give you a hand.
CANCER 0 (22 Jun 23 Jul)
The squalls of the last week of December will continue
until the 19th. Clearing weather will be a real relief after
the rough seas of the last few weeks.
Q LEO (24 Jul 23 Aug)
It's always something! The contrary currents in creative
ity and communications you beat against last month will
continue until the 19th, when squalls in your love life will
take over.
p VIRGO (24 Aug 23 Sep)
Business is still in the doldrums, so let your love life put
some wind in your sails until the 18th.
^ LIBRA (24 Sep 23 Oct)
The island of romance will be an unattainable landfall
until the 18th when your patience pays off and the winds
of change bring success in your creative course.
TSCORPIO (24 Oct 22 Nov)
Stay off the radio: whatever you say will have a tenden
cy to come out wrong and throw you off course. But keep
your radar on, as your romantic life will be on a collision
course after the 18th.
SAGITTARIUS (23 Nov 21 Dec)
Business is still wishy-washy, so take this time to rein
force relationships with crew or cruising pals before the
last week when even your love life takes a dive.
6 CAPRICORN (22 Dec 20 Jan)
Your sense of humor will assist in giving your business
a lift. Good relationships with crew and boat buddies will
help until the 18th, so find ways to make these aspects
work for you.
^ AQUARIUS (21 Jan 19 Feb)
The vessel full of creative energy you sailed aboard last
month will continue underway until the 19th. Romance will
be right off its stern, sailing into your harbor of love. Enjoy.
SPISCES (20 Feb 20 Mar)
Business will still be in the doldrums for the first two
weeks. Attempts to stimulate some activity will be in vain
and may cause counter-currents in the last week, so you
might as well douse the sails and relax.







Crossword Solution
ACROSS 23) FLYING 14) DOG
5) SEACAT 27) ALBACORE 15) BARACUDA
7) GUMPUS 29) JELLY 16) EGGS
9) INCH 31) BOATS 17) DEVIL
10) CAT 32) MINNOW 18) TUNA
11) FLAT 33) CARP 19) TRIGGER
12) WRASSE 24) CAPT
13) NEEDLE DOWN 25) DRUM
15) BAND 1) GAR 26) BLACK
17) DOLPHIN 2) MACKEREL 28) MONK
18) TANG 3) PUFFER 30) PIPE
20) ALE 4) CUTTLE
21) HERRING 6) ANGELFISH
22) KING 8) SAW


Carriacol o



Carriacou


My island is a special place,
A spot where I can slow the pace
i i. md absorb a life
ii .- i, from worries, challenge, strife.
There's nothing here that can invade
The sweet tranquility that's made
From having lots of things to do,
But nothing pressing, and if you
Should choose to spend the hours just gazing
At vistas which are quite amazing,
,,i ,i ii unds great to me,
I, - with conscience free.
Having a willing friend to hand a
Drink to me on the veranda,
And if I'm hot, why then I cool
Myself down in the hillside pool.
But, if perhaps I feel a surge
Of energy, why I can splurge
And walk the beach, or take a sail
To nearby cays, which never fail
To convince me that heaven is not
As far away as once I thought!
The negatives are there it's true,
And hurricanes have come which blew
The sea into a wild, mad frenzy,
And when it passed, no one would envy
Us the task to clear away
The devastation left, but hey!
Good neighbors come and lend a hand
To clear the debris, grit and sand.
Life can be hard at times it's true,
But I'll spend mine in Carriacou!


- Nan Hatch


NMmories

of Felix

The lagoon is flat.
Not a ripple, not a whisper.
The gray green surface
Reflecting the darkening sky.

The sun has retreated,
Sinking in the sea beyond the channel,
As the rest of us wait;
Thirty boats, their crews and the lagoon.

Out of the darkness they come;
At first, a breeze and a drizzle;
Building to twenty knots,
Building to a driving rain.

The gathering gloom thickens,
Twenty builds to thirty five,
Rain in blinding sheets
Bombarding the empty decks.

The banshee gusts spring from the dark,
Whipping the lagoon into a froth,
Blending it with the horizontal torrents,
'til the surface seems to disappear.

The boat seems suspended,
Adrift in a malevolent chaos,
Direction is meaningless,
Lost in the enveloping din.

Anchor rode groan, rigging whines,
Hulls dance to a hypnotic song,
Hell's gates open, its fury unleashed.
My soul is frightened and cold.

The new day's dawn pierces the gloom
As the raging storm moves off,
Building its strength, on a westward heading,
To haunt some other sailor's dreams.


John Rowland








Compass cZri n Cr.oso" FISHES

ACROSS

5) Caribbean nickname for octopus
7) Fish that allows itself to be caught
10 11 9) Unit for measuring fish length
10) A fish has whiskers
11) fishes include flounder and sole
12 13 14 12) Blueheaded is a common type of this
13) Shorter 30 Down fish
15) or ribbon fish
17) fish: dorado or mahi-mahi
18) Blue reef fish
20) Wife or Old Wife
15 16 21) Northern fish, popularly served marinated
22) West Indian fish with no side bones
23) A fish has "wings"
7 is 27) Type of 18 Down
29) A fish has no bones
31) Fishermen's vehicles
19 32) Small bait fish
33) Large Asian ornamental pond fish
20 21 DOWN

22 1) Fish with green bones
2) Smaller version of 22 Across
3) A fish inflates itself when fearful
23 4) Squid bone
6) Large beautiful reef dweller
8) A rare fish related to sharks and rays
24 25 26 14) A fish is a type of shark
15) This toothy fish is alternatively spelled
barracuda, barracouta, picuda, becuna or
27 28 29 ao 16) Some fish are born from
17) Another name for 28 Down
18) Popular food fish
24) I , ,,, I ....... ......
25) Grunt fish
31 32 33 26) Color of 15 Across or 25 Down
28) fish lives in a monastery?
30) You can't smoke this fish!

Solution on page 34

parlumps marooned


SIBela
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frule Electric Wire
aBW Marine Hoses
/1f Bilge Pumps
.mi Lubricants & Oils


Stainless Fittings Paint Brushes
VHF Radios Epoxy Resins
Flares & Life Jackets Sanding Paper & Discs
Snorkeling Equipment Hand & Power Tools
Fishing Gear Houseware & Cookware


J












Trevor and the





farthqua e e

by Lee Kessel


"0 lors, Ernie, yo should seen de body jump!"
Trevor, who lives in the mountainous island of St.
Lucia, was visiting his cousin Ernie over in Barbados
by the wild Atlantic coast, just up the ridge from Sweet
Bottom. As a special Christmas treat Trevor's parents
had packed him off for Christmas and the New Year.
There was so much to do in Barbados, so many
wonderful adventures to go on, that at first, Trevor
and Ernie had forgotten all about that dreadful earth
quake that had struck the Caribbean islands in
November. But now, when things had settled down a
bit, the two boys had started to tell each other scary
stories when they had been sent to bed and the lights
were out. Ernie's little sister Nyna could hear them
whispering together because her bedroom was right


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next to theirs and she wished she were a boy and
could join in all their adventures. As it was, they
wouldn't let her near their room and ran off whenev
er she tried to join in their games. "It's not fair!" Nyna
complained to her mother, Josephina. And as for her
father, Solly, he just picked her up, put her on his
knee and told her he much preferred his little
princess to all the boys in Barbados!
Now, before Trevor got to this spooky part of the
story, he had to explain to Ernie all about the funer
al. He had to start off with explaining to Ernie how
the chapel was built on top of the Morne and then he
had to explain that the Morne was right behind the
city of Castries.
"Castries surround by hills!" Trevor boasted, "but de
Morne is high high much higher dan here. It so high
dat two tunnels running under it and you should
hear de noise of de cars an trucks gon thrum, thrum
as dey wheels hit de concrete."
Ernie could only sigh and hope that one day his par
ents would send him over to St. Lucia to stay with his
big city cousin. Trevor then boasted that of course
everyone in St. Lucia had felt the earthquake much
more than in Barbados because his island is so moun
tainous and Barbados is so flat -well, all except for
those high hills and cliffs above Sweet Bottom. Trevor
didn't know whether he was right saying this about
the earthquake and who felt what, but it sounded good
and Ernie wouldn't know anyway.
So, there they were, he and his father attending the
funeral of a distant uncle in the big, tall chapel on top
of the Morne. As usual the coffin was placed in front
of the altar and as usual the coffin was open. Trevor
toci -t .t i ;-- 1-. -ribing to Ernie how the uncle
in -. I... - I up in his best dark blue suit.
"He have clean white shirt, stiff collar and black tie
about he neck, so tight he mus feel pressure fo so. He
even have shoe on and white sock and de shoes pol
ish bright bright. But yo should seen de face! It pow
der bright orange and de lips bright purple and de
eyes closed with copper penny to stop de evil eye from
getting yo."


"Ooh, Trevor, wish I does been there!"
"We all look serious, serious an den de chapel begin
to shake! 'Oh,' de fella next we shout, 'dis man be
strong, strong! He fight like crazy to stop we bury he!'
Next ting shaking be worse and every man an woman
an chile run out de chapel. I go follow but me fadder
grab me should and shout, 'Why you does run? Dis
be de house of de Lord! God protect we!'
"And den big big rumble and shaking so bad de
chapel walls sway and bend and den de body does
start jumping ur tTin t- .t out de coffin and run
like all de rest. I ...- I I grab hold de body and
force it back where it belong and he pray all de time,
'Oh Lord, keep dis brother from hell fire. Take yo ser
vant on high.' There be second big big rumble and
c. .-i. .11 de ting on de altar, de cross, de chalice,
d ... le book and de pews does dance round
and crash over and I does -i .. 1 ri, 1. .. and me
fadder hold dat body down ".11. I i 1. ,,.I calling
pon de Lord to protect us poor sinners. More shaking
den little little and me fadder straighten he uncle in he
coffin, pull he suit proper, straighten de legs, wipe de
shoes, pull de necktie tight and make all neat and
proper. Then he hold me hand and we find we car and
drive home."
By this time, Trevor was so excited that his whisper
had turned to a shout and the next thing Uncle Solly
had thrown open the door and told them not anoth
er word or he would send Trevor back home. Aunt
Josephina was huffing in their bedroom down the
hall and little sister Nyna was all ears and big eyes in
her moonlit room. Trevor and Ernie slunk down in
their beds and once Uncle Solly's door closed with a
thud, Ernie lent over to Trevor, touched him on the
shoulder and whispered: "That story worse dan de
coffins flung all round de vault up dere in de church
yard of Christchurch. Boy, just yo wait till night
come round agen, yo hair gon stand on end!" And
Ernie grinned at the thought that he had a cool cool
spooky story to tell his cousin Trevor that would shut
him up for good.
THE END


IM.C .. ..... b tional ... .i. ..- was formed to devise and then implement a ten-year action
Plan : 11 GEOCSS Representatives of over 70 countries and nearly 50 non-gov
Segment a, ..... .. .. attended the 2007 GEO conference in Cape Town to dis-
/cuss the .. i plan. It focuses on nine areas: disasters, health, energy, cli
mate, water, weather, ecosyrt -.. -.-i-ti-- ,.,-1 1-i- li--
( i i GEO 11. Partnership for Observation of
.. the Glk.bal Oceans 11. dea for POGO was first raised in 1999 when the direct
I tors of several *.. .. i1. ... 1. ... .. .... I the world met and discussed how
to coordinate I .1- i -i.. I I .... .... ronment. New V--hin--'. were
becoming available to monitor marine systems more closely. Th ,I ... .. ,, col
R elected could be used to predict changes in weather and sea patterns that may
OD E E P L adversely affect human beings, as well as those that can improve human health,
wealth and safety. Temperature changes in the sea, over-fishing and pollution are
O LLLVY'SL E all issues that c ... I .. I through global observation systems.
At the end of I. GEO ,.. .... participants issued the Cape Town declaration.
b Elaine Ollivierre This noted the achievements already made by its members and confirmed their
by E ine Olierre commitment to further work. They also resolved to meet again by 2010 to review
Do you remember how much of the earth is covered with water? Oceans their progress and to ensure implementation of the GEOSS plan.
cover approximately 71 percent -that's nearly three-quarters -of the earth's
surface. Yet the importance of the oceans to life on earth has only recently been GUESS WHAT?
acknowledged. The following acronyms belong I ... I 1i ....., .. in partnership with
Last month, we looked at the November 2007 meeting in New Zealand of the POGO. Can you guess what the :...i- .
scientists from the Census of Marine Life. At the end of that month, another 1) CoML
important meeting was held, this time in South Africa when the members of GEO, 2) GOOS
the Group on Earth Observations, met for their annual conference. Let's look at 3) IGOS
the history of this group and its activities. 4) IOC
In 2002, at the World Summit on Sustainable Development .1 . I . 5) IODE
itwas very important to coordinate world-wide observations o.. I I I II I i I 6) IOTWS
and its environment Participants at the First, Second and Third Earth Observations 7) MIA
Summits held in .-i1..... .. F. 12003), Tokyo (2004) and Brussels (2005) respect 8) OOPC
tively, established I.. L GEOSS, Global Earth Observation System of 9) SCOR
Systems. The GEO, which is a voluntary partnership of governments and interna- 10) WMO Answers on page 47

--- ------------ --------------








Q4a '44 TA1 r


4F4 5 544J1


Away to Bequia, written by June Stoute, illustrated by Jehanne Silva Freimane.
2007. Published by Oraef Inc. Full color. ISBN 976 8215 86 0.
Barbadian writer June Stoute is no stranger to Bequia. She and her husband,
amateur racing sailor Dick Stoute, have been cruising the Grenadines for many
years on their yacht, Shangri-La June has been shore crew while Dick, a familiar
face on the racing circuit, has crewed with fellow Bajan sailor Andrew Burke on
Nefertiti, Bruggadung I and Bruggadung II, and with Carriacou-based Jerry Stewart
on his Bloody Mary.
June Stoute describes her
self as a business executive
by day and a creative writer,
r publisher ar 1 Th-t-.r T--r
after hours. -I h, I i
in the book industry in 2000
by publishing her husband's
book, The Fear Factor. In
December 2006 she moved
front stage with her own
dren's book, Would You
Please Fetch Me A Pail? For
this she teamed up with her
Daughter, Jehanne Silva
Si i Freimane, who illustrated the
story. This was followed in
T April 2007 by Giant African
Land Snails + Snail Facts
S At last year's National
Sr Independence Festival of
Creative Arts (NIFCA) in
Bridgetown, Barbados,
Stoute received a Bronze
Award for Would You Please
Fetch Me A Pail? and a Silver
Award for GiantAfrican Land
Snails + Snail Facts. Stoute
believes she has the ingredi
ents for a Gold in Away To
Bequia. Stoute has been suc
cessful in several local liter
ary competitions over the
years and her poetry has been published in the University of the West Indies Cave
Hill Literary Annual.
Away To Bequia is the story of young Roger's first inter island -r-==-1, -a trip
which turns into a voyage of discovery and wonder when his ., i. I. sets a
course towards the setting sun.
Bequian book reviewer Cherian Gordon writes about Away to Bequia
There have been many great storybooks written from yesteryear to this present
day. Of the many I have read, I must say that this one isn't just great it's amaz
ing. From its beautifully written words to its vibrant pictures, everything blends
uniquely to form a vast image of the whole adventure in the reader's mind. You can
see, feel, hear and even smell all the exotic textures in the story. The eccentric flow
of rhythm and rhyme cultivates a cascade of poetic Caribbean flavor, when every
word is read.
The most amazing thing about ti - ,. i. is that it is a family adventure
and though today such a thing is c ,., IIom. I II this writer depicts its beauty as
i, i i i,. .... ry day. As a true Bequian, I salute June Stoute for basing this
. i ,,i ad by i .. expedition to my blessed home and I would recommend that
it be read by all children.
Available at bookstores or from the author atjestoute@sunbeach.net.




GRENADINES

SAILS & CANVAS

BEQUIA
Come in and see us for all your SAILS & CANVAS needs
including CUSTOM-MADE stainless steel
BIMINI & DODGER frames at competitive prices


Located opposite G.Y.E.
(northern side of Admiralty Bay) REPRESENTATIVE
Tel (784) 457-3507 / 457-3527 (evenings)
e-mail: gsails@vincysurf.com VHF Ch16/68


Bequia Marina

Open Monday to Saturday 8:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m.
Look for the Big Blue Building and ask for Stan or Miguel!
Water, Diesel, Ice, Bottled Water and Dockage available.

The Yacht Club, Bequia Marina, Port Elizabeth, Bequia,
St. Vincent & The Grenadines
VHF 68; Telephone 784-457-3361



PICK UP!
Ahoy, Compass Readers! When in Bequia, pick up your free monthly copy of
the Caribbean Compass at any of these locations (advertisers in this issue
appear in bold):


Bequia Bookshop
Bequia Post Office
Bequia Tourism Assn.
Dawn's Beach Cafe
De Reef Restaurant
Doris Fresh Food
Frangipani Hotel
Friendship Rose Office
Grenadine Sails
GYE
Lulley's Tackle
Mac's Pizzeria
Max Marine
PortHole Restaurant
Salty Dog Restaurant
Tradewinds Cruise Club
W&W Supermarket
Wallace & Co.


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St. Lucia's Environmental Artist

Llewellyn Xavier: His Life and Work, series editor Edward Lucie-Smith,
Macmillan Caibbean Art Collection. Hard cover, 208 pages, full color throughout. ISBN
978-4050-8649-3.
Llewellyn Xavier is St.
Lucia's pre eminent visual
artist, known worldwide for
strong conceptual work that
has explored such issues as
race, sex, spirituality, and
the environment
A new retrospective of
work by Xavier has been
published by Macmillan
Caribbean as part of its
series on Caribbean artists.
The book is narrated by
both Xavier and series edi
tor Edward Lucie Smith,
and provides an in depth
look at the artist's 40 year
creative journey.
Twenty years ago, Xavier
made statements about the
ongoing destruction of the
natural world i.... i I.
masterpiece sel II .1
Council for Restoration of
the Earth's Environment".
Inspired by impending
threats on St. Lucia that he
discovered -ic r-t.rn;.;i t
the island I - .11 hI
ing abroad, the artist hoped
this work would raise aware
ness about dire ecological
issues. Now, 20 years later, Xavier's concerns are forefront in te international polite
ical arena.
In addition to his environmental work, Xavier is esteemed widely for his abstract
watercolours and oils inspired by the dynamic Caribbean weather and for his strik
ing and colorful depictions of the Pitons, which are featured on the book's cover.
The book offers an inclusive look at Xavier's most significant work from the 1960s
through the present. It also features Xavier's second environmental series,
I ......... I i. ", which involved conceptual works made entirely from recy
I I ii I I ,ids of commercial paint, and embedded with shards of 24
carat gold representing the millions of trees that have been ground into dust for
commercial purposes, the finality of earth's resources, and the preciousness of our
environment. Xavier is currently completing his third series of environmental work
titled "Global Warning", which has not yet been shown to the public.
Available at bookstores or www.amazon.co.uk.


DIRECT ORY


FROM GUADELOUPE!

Guadeloupe Marine Info 2008 the Guadeloupe Nautical Directory. Edited
by Club Transcaraibes Association, Stephane Legendre. Paperback, 163 pages, full
color throughout. Free.
Neither a cruising guide nor
a tourist guide, this handy and
well-researched reference
-available in both print and on
line (www.guadeloupe
-3marine.info) versions -gath

information for sailors and
other watersports enthusiasts
-* about the archipelago of
Guadeloupe. Both versions are
bi-lingual (French and
i ,,.ii with a different font
I I each in the print ver
Ssion for quick orientation.
-- There are five chapters: General
Information, Practical
S* .' --'"""""* Information, Flora and Fauna,
Nautical Information and a
.. Directory (organized by trade).
The chapters in the print version
Share color coded for easy reference.
Of particular interest to cruis
.Z ers will be the sections on clear
ing in and out, pets on board,
S marina services, bridge opening
Times on the Riviere Salee,
weather forecasts and provi
i-i ih Th-r- is also a calendar
I ,-II I ., I nautical events.
S A unique feature is a section
introducing key personalities in
Guadeloupe's sailing and water
sports sector; if you spot one of these faces on the beach or on the dock, you'll know
who it is!
Color photos, especially those in the Flora and Fauna chapter, are a plus, as are
the useful island, town and marina maps. A separate page listing emergency phone
numbers and radio frequencies could be pulled out and posted aboard. The book is
small ...1. to carry ashore.
Best I .11 it's free. Pick up a copy in Guadeloupe
or visit www.guadeloupe-marine.info.


The Mwarku aCr Mroget

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JusL.- I


BOOK REVIEW BY BOB BERLINGHOF


Close to a Classic
Just Another Day in Paradise, by Julia Bartlett, 2004, 257 pages. ISBN 978
1-4303-2709-7
This tale of a plucky solo sailor, Morgane, and her travels between islands in the
Caribbean contains something I have never before come across in sailing literature
a realistic, harrowing account of the aftermath of a tragic hurricane.
The island on which she survives, wisely called St. Bertha, was modeled on St.
] i '.i' ... I i i ..... I .. to itbyHurricane Luis over a decade ago. Atthe time,
S.... .... -.. I 'i, ly were largely glossed over by the news media. Bartletts
account of countless lives lost, both at sea and on land (a mudslide killed uncount
ed illegal immigrants when the hill they lived on collapsed), shows a country in chaos
and distress. It is not pretty, but it is one of the best features of this novel.
The supporting characters are generally well-drawn. Morgane's boyfriend, Jimbo,
and their sidekick, Terry, who each have their own boats, are particularly vivid. The
li.1-- 1- -- -, -t1. sparkles with wit and authenticity. This reader feels like
ii 1I i i i ". them. Morgane's cat, Nelson, is also featured with inter
:--.! ; 1 7: which should please cat lovers, but I found this a little too cute.
S characters, Ronnie, the bartender, Yves, the escaped convict, and
Isabel, a woman crushed by the death of her friend, are well-portrayed. For comic
relief there is a nutty taxi driver and an eccentric self-taught chiropractor. This
book is chiefly about surviving a hurricane, but there is quite a bit of humour
stuffed in between the devastations.
There is also a parallel story to Morgane's, ....... 1. r.. .1. -.1. iend Victoria.
We are told in the first chapter that Morgane 1 i ....... i... ... I and whining
kids" to become a self reliant sailor. Victoria, a cog in the wheel of the English penal
system, is seeking to escape a mundane job, and a family that doesn't appreciate
her, by vi itin' -r- n- The hurricane alters her travel plans and causes her to
have the I ,i,,, I I' life by forcing her to "wing it."
The hurricane description is quite good, but its aftermath is even better, told from
the points of view of Morgane, who manages to get ashore only to be buried under
the mud, and Yves, an escaped prisoner who is searching for the remnants of his
family while dodging the soldiers and police who are shooting at looters.
Unfortunately, the realistic and bleak tone of this novel is upstaged by a jarring
Hollywood ending. There are three or four miracles towards the end of this book
which indicate that Ms. Bartlett was hoping to please everybody with an "all's well
that ends well" smiley face attitude. This somewhat trivializes the horror of what
has come before I" i II11,.. li e novel's serious tone.
The side story ii ... i ... who feels victimized by local prejudice, is not
enough to balance the contrived happy ending of all the characters. Morgane's
brush with a drug baron is particularly weak. Some of the local dialect fails to ring
true, but that is a minor complaint.
Although uneven in tone, I would still recommend this book, although I can't help
but wonder what a classic it could have been had the author set out to write a
funny and bleak Caribbean novel without the miraculous ending.
This book is available from www.lulu.com or www.amazon.com.


C(onltal Jolhn Loui. 87trI713-1,(144 871,87 14412
e-mail: inino' errolll\inninarina.t(m \ HF Clhannel I1,
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VHF 08 TEL-FAX (784) 458 8918 capgorrnalcairibsurloam


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on the widest selection and the
best pnces in Grenada at our two
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Whether its canned goods, dairy
products, meat, fresh vegetables
or fruits, toiletries, household goods,
or a fine selection of liquor and wine,
The Food Fairhas it all and a lot more

Hubbard's
JONAS BROWNE & HUBBARD (G'da) Ltd


The

Food

Fair

I-
The Carenage:
Monday Thursday
8 am to 5:30 pm
Friday until 8:45 pm
Saturday until
1:00 pm
Tel: (473) 440-2588
Grand Anse:
Monday Thursday
9 am to 5:30 pm
Friday & Saturday
until 7:00 pm
Tel: (473) 444-4573


MAC'S PIZZERIA










In addition to our famous pizza we offer
seasonal specialties and fresh baked goods.
Open daily from 11:00am to 10:00pm.
Situated in Admiralty Bay, Bequia between
the Frangipani and Plantation House.
For Reservations: VHF Ch68 or Tel: (784) 458 3474

!nl- d[ lh 'lF 1v ;TL I


ansatlantic ith Street. DVD. Produced and
directed by Gavin Shaw, Gavin Shaw Marine
Marketing. Distributed by Bennett Media Corporation.
120 minutes, color.
In many ways sailing across the Atlantic in 1985
was more like it had been a century before than it is
like today especially if you were doing it aboard an
80-year-old, engineless wooden boat. But some things
about sailing seem eternal: the joy of a fair-weather
sunrise at sea after a long night watch, watching dol
phins speed effortlessly in your bow wave, the satis
faction of learning seamanship from an experienced
and patient skipper, the conflicting emotions of a long
awaited landfall.


SOME THINGS


NEVER CHANGE


This DVD is a re-release of the 1986 video made by
British advertising executive Gavin Shaw, who took a
three-month sabbatical to sail 5,000 miles with Don
Street aboard the 44-foot lolaire from Glandore,
Ireland to English Harbour, Antigua, via Vigo, Spain,
the islands of Porto Santo and Madeira, and the
Salvage, Canary and Cape Verde island groups.
Street says, "We had no electronic navigation, only a
Brooks and Gatehouse RDF, a sextant and a radio to
i i ....., i. 1. re were no cruising guides: we
i .. .. iI... 'i 1 Santo, the .1 i Cape
Verde islands, and very little ol ii ...... s. We
sailed in and out of everywhere as we had .- --. "
With no self steering gear either, the crew I I. I k
turns hand steering, by tiller, all the way. Gavin adds
that lolaire was a wee bit wetter to sail than the mod
ern craft his skipper refers to as i -i..... plastic
bathtubs", remarking that often "s I 1.1 she's
sinking out from under you". (No fear: the tins of food
may have gotten rusty, but lolaire had enormous and
r91nrl1- exercised bilge pumps.) As Gavin said at the
.. i i trip, arriving in Antigua, "We felt more like
explorers than tourists."
The DVD has a very "you are there" feel, giving a real
sense of what it's like to do a long ocean
small boat. A little too real sometimes I ....I
Day One, Day Two, Day Three, Day Four... (three
months, remember) occasionally gets just as tedious
as living through a long voyag i.1.... I,,,, I,
interest is happening and .. .....
favorite foods. But, as in bluewater voyaging, with all
its sidetracks and slow spots, there are also moments
of exhilaration and transcendent natural beauty
found nowhere but at sea. Gavin has an eye for shots
which capture the moment, and the original back
ground music by Craig Wrigley, mostly acoustic gui
tar, adds to the overall aesthetic appeal.
The educational components of this DVD will be
greatly appreciated, especially those concerning sail
trim. Gavin's clear i. ... -1 11ii ...... rigs
(such as "poor man I .. i. ..I- ..- I .. trip,
and Don's voice-over explains them. Also throughout
are seamanship tips that are just as valid today as
they were 23 years ago.
Of the making of the original video, Gavin writes:
"When Don saw the JVC equipment we hoped would
survive the three-month passage from Ireland to
Antigua, he said: 'Electricity, copper and salt water
make green gunge.' However, electricity itself was in
short supply on lolaire and cooling the skipper's beer
was the first priority for the wind and water genera
tors. Diverting enough power to charge the video bat


TRANSATLANTIC


WITH STREET


The reviewer apologizes for the authentic saltwater
splashes on the cover of our copy!

film's current fad for quick, choppy cuts (three sec
onds is now a I ..." shot) and a dozen car crashes
per hour might I... I this DVD's pace -well, as slow
as sailing itself can sometimes be. Just ease your
mainsheet. Its worth taking 120 minutes to settle in
with a favorite beverage or two, a big bowl of popcorn
and a few sailing buddies and take this historic yet
timeless trip.
Sailing doesn't lose its magic.
Available from www.bennettmarine.com and
Armchair Sailor.


teries was one challenge. However, death by green
gunge was the .. -1 threat to the camera on Don's
dear old boat. 1, - a thousand gallons were hand
pumped [from the 'i. 1 every day when lolaire was
working in the Trad kept the 1.,...... I... iment
in an airtight case with a kilogram I I -. .,, crys
tals which were dried in the oven after the morning's
bread making. On deck, the camera was protected
from spray and rain by a strong but lightweight plas
tic hood. With this regime the camera and recorder
kept working all the way and had successfully cap
tured 13 hours by the time Don's Herreshoff bower
anchor hit the bottom in English Harbour."
Many viewers today, accustomed to television and


in Lower Bay, Bequia
* Come and find us amongst the trees!
Candelight Dinners
Monday to Saturday
PLEASE RESERVE!


PORTHOLE RESTAURANT & BAR
& Shoreline Mini-Market

We serve breakfast,
lunch and dinner
VHF CH68
Phone (784) 458-3458
A friendly atmosphere where you can sit and meet people.
Admiralty Bay, Bequia
Noelina & Lennox Taylor welcome you!






:-t kneading and fussing, new recipes have been developed for really easy
S. 1 making. Compared with the old way, it is like GPS compared to celes
I .I aviation. It's perfect for galley dummies and single-handers. The fol
lowing recipe is adapted from Mark Bittman's article in the New York Times, which
described the no-knead bread of Jim Lahey, owner of New York City's Sullivan Street
Bakery. It has been modified here to minimize the mess, and also with comments
on making it work with a boat oven. The bread you get looks much like sour-dough
bread and has a wonderful crust.



NO-KNEAD


BREAD


ON BOARD
by Chris Doyle

You need the following equipment:
An oven
A pottery dish or metal saucepan with a well-fitting lid that fits in the oven (about
8 inches diameter and 3 1/2 inches high)
A largish cutting board
A large clean tea towel
A bowl large enough to mix four and one-half cups
A plastic bag, Caribbean plastic bathing hat, or a bit of plastic, which you can
put over the top of the bowl to stop any moisture escaping. Unless you get the
Caribbean bathing hat, you will also need a rubber band to hold it tightly over
the bowl
A rubber spatula (you can get away with a spoon, but it is not as easy)
Some cornmeal to stop things sticking (if cornmeal is a problem, you can get
away with flour, but the result will be messier, cornmeal is far better)
That is most of the work right there: making sure you have the gear.
Next, the ingredients:
2 1/2 Cups of white baking flour (use 3 if you have a house oven, not a boat oven)
1/4 teaspoon of dried instant yeast
2 teaspoons of salt
Half as much water as flour (1 1/4 Cups for a boat oven, 1 1/2 for a house oven)


Let the dough rest overnight, bake the next morning, and you'll have ajresh, crusty
peasant loaf for lunch or supper

Start this bread in the evening. Mix the dry ingredients well in the bowl. Add the
water, mix thoroughly. Put the plastic over the bowl and seal it with a rubber band.
Leave overnight. (This standing time is what makes no-kneading possible, so don't
shortcut it.)
Next morning, dust a cutting board with cornmeal; scrape the ingredients out of
the bowl onto the cutting board with the rubber spatula (or whatever). Gently flop it
over, being sure there is still enough cornmeal beneath the dough. (This flopping
over gets you cornmeal on top of the bread so the tea towel does not stick). Cover
loosely with a clean tea towel and leave for two hours.
After one and half hours, begin getting the oven and pot ready. Put your saucepan
or baking dish with the lid on in the oven. Turn it on and set to 450F. If you have
a boat oven with no temperature gauge on it, put it on the very highest setting.
After half an hour of pre-heating, remove the saucepan or dish and take the cover
off. Flop the bread mix into the saucepan or dish, put the lid back on, and put it in
the oven. Bake at 450F for half an hour, then remove the lid, and bake for anoth
er quarter of an hour. You are now finished except for removing the bread from the
oven and turning it out onto a board.
I suggest making this bread for the first time with white flour. After that, experi
ment with multigrain, whole wheat, or whatever. You can also add half a cup of oil
cured pitted olives cut in two to make an excellent olive bread.
Boat ovens can present certain problems. If you find the bread burns at the back
or bottom, the flame is probably too close to the pan. The fix is to cover the shelf
with cheap pottery tiles.
You may find you want to adjust the amount of liquid in this recipe just a little.
You will need to scrape the bread mixture onto the cutting board, but you should
be able to use your hands to flop the bread over, once it has a little cornmeal on the
outside. If you find it way too wet for this, sprinkle a little cornmeal on top to pro
tect the towel and then scrape the mixture into the pot with a spoon (the bread will
still be fine), but next time try just a tad less water. It should not be too dry, how
ever, as the moisture in this method is essential to the rising.


Enjy tasty food and your favourite


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a Basil's Bar

SMustique


Vsitors to Mustique are invited to:
BASILS BAR AND RESTAURANT: Basil's Bar in Mustique was named one of the
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tion. Recently renovated the new f II I I I I is all that and more
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Now equipped with WIFI you can enjoy sunset cocktails and catch up on the web.
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6,2008. II I i '" AM, Lunch is served 11:00 AM 6 PM,
Dinner at ' I i I I for Cocktails anytime and plan to attend the
Wednesday night Jump up and BBQ. Call 784-488-8350 or VHF 68.
BASILS BOUTIQUE Fabrics as I 1, 1 I 1 1 1 air.. perfect for
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Shipping is easily I II I arranged. Call 784-488-8407

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BASILS BAR: In St Vincent near the port o I is an 18th --n..t ob-
blestone I where you may find Basil's Restaurant and Bar. Air I ,
you will enjoy cocktails most delightful, I II I and the meals, some
of the best on the island. Call 784-457-2713

lVsit Basil's in Mustique or St. Vincent
www.basilsbar.com basilst@caribsurfcom
WE SIAR0UD TEWRD!










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Kitchen open Monday to Saturday 10am 10pm
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THE YUMMY YAM

The array of root vegetables in Caribbean markets c ... 1 ..r...;.; Cassava, tan
nia, eddos, yam, sweet potato and dasheen are thi ... i .....I .. names in the
Eastern Caribbean; on the western side of the Caribbean you'll hear boniata, bata
ta, otoe, name, hampi, yucca, malanga and yautia.
There is often confusion between "sweet potatoes" and "yams"; many North
Americans use the names interchangeably. But yams and sweet potatoes are not the
same thing. They don't even belong to the same family. Real yams belong to the
Dioscoreaceae family with hundreds of edible varieties -and not very many recipes.
Yams are perennial vines with shiny heart-shaped leaves and underground tubers,
usually buried deep and difficult to dig up. The edible tuber is long and cylindrical
and its skin is rough and scaly, almost like a tree's bark. Sweet potatoes, on the
other hand, belong to the
Morning Glory, or ) 1
Convolvulacae, family, and I e,
have a smooth red skin. .
eties of yams, with brown,
black, white or pink skin,
and with white, yellow, or
purple flesh. They can grow
up to seven feet and weigh
200 pounds!
The name yam came from
the i,., word
"inham II, Spanish
word "name," both of which
are derived from an African
word "nyami," meaning "to ..-
eat." In the English speak
ing Caribbean, traditional r
ly, all root crops are called .
ground provisions" or
ground food". This term came from the sugar plantation days when food for the
workers was scarce. Ground food was a reliable source of nutrition, since these roots
could survive extreme dry spells and the wrath of tropical storms. Also, roots such
as yam, dasheen and cassava could be grown inconspicuously with the
crop. The yam remains a staple food in many of the Caribbean islands, Ic... I
South America.
Yams' sugars and complex carbohydrates are absorbed into the bloodstream slow
ly and, because yams are high in fiber, yams fill you up without filling out your hips
and waistline.
When buying yams at the market, look for solid, hard roots which are heavy for their
size, with no soft shrunken spots, cracks, or mold. Pick the best by pricking through
the skin with a fingernail. The fl 1, 1. ..1 11 .f., ... 1 i..: Store the yams in a cool,
well ventilated place. In a cool, I. I I e II I I i I w weeks, but in less than
ideal conditions, they will only keep for a week. Use before they get soft.
Yams taste more like an Idaho potato than any other tropical tuber. Yams can be
boiled then mashed with milk, butter and cheese to make yam pie. Or yams can be
just mashed with plenty of butter and seasoned to complement meat, chicken or fish
dishes. Yams can be finely sliced into chips or simply baked in their skins. Yams are
a wonderful addition to many soups, especially fish broth. Cold boiled yam can be
made into a type of potato salad by i ..... i. ........ union and celery. Yam
chunks can be added to stir fry or -. .. I .I- I I .1 Roasted yams, fen
nel, onions, and mushrooms are a delicious combination.
It is not advisable to eat raw yam. In any case, the skins are difficult to peel until
the vegetable has been cooked. Wear gloves if peeling raw yams, since they secrete
an acrid juice that can irritate the skin. Scrub yams before cooking.

Recipes from Mary Heckrotte
Bourbon and Beer Yamcakes
1 1/2 Cups flour
1 Tablespoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon salt
3 ..- separated
1/l, up milk
1/2 Cup beer
2 Tablespoons bourbon
1 Cup yams, boiled and mashed
2 Tablespoons butter, melted
Pinch each, ground cardamom and ginger
Cooking oil
Maple syrup
In a small mixing bowl, sift together the flour, baking powder, and salt. Beat the
ii .... I them to the flour mixture. Add milk, beer, bourbon, mashed yams,
i -1 Stir until all ingredients are moistened. Beat egg whites until stiff
peaks form, then fold into batter.
Heat slightly oiled skillet or griddle over medium-high heat. Pour 1/4 Cup batter
into pan and cook until edges are dry and center has bubbles. Turn and cook other
side until golden. Serve with maple syrup.
Baked Garlic Yam
1 small yam
2 Tablespoons butter
Garlic salt
3 Tablespoons sour cream
Bake yam at 400F for 45 to 60 minutes or until yam is fork-tender. Remove from
oven and split yam in half. Holding halves with a potholder, use a spoon to scoop out
insides. Discard skin.
Heap on a plate and spread with butter then sprinkle on garlic salt to taste. Top
with a dollop of sour cream.
Makes one serving. Multiply ingredients for more servings.
Scotchie Yams
2 small yams
1 quart water
Pinch salt
Continued on next page







Continued from previous page
1 small onion, sliced thinly
2 to 4 Tablespoons butter
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1/2 Cup water
Boil yams in 1 quart water (or to just cover) until
barely fork-tender. Drain, peel, and slice in 1/4-inch
slices. Put in skillet with remaining ingredients. Cover
and cook over medium-low heat until yam slices and
onions are tender. Add more water if needed to prevent
scorching. Serves two.

True Yam and Apple Casserole
2 Cups yams
4 Tablespoons butter, divided
1/2 Cup brown sugar
1/2 Cup corn syrup
2 Tablespoons dry sherry
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/8 teaspoon salt
2 medium tart apples, peeled, cored, sliced
1/2 Cup pecans, chopped
Boil yams until fork-tender. Grease a 10-inch round
oven-proof pan or dish. Process yams in food processor
with 2 Tablespoons of the butter, sugar, corn syrup,
sherry, cinnamon, and salt until smooth. Spread half
of mixture in dish. Layer on half of apples and half of
pecans. Repeat. Brush with remaining butter.
Bake uncovered at 325 for 30 minutes. Serve hot.

Caribbean Bubble and Squeak
1 pound yams
One-half pound cabbage
1 medium onion, minced
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
Butter
Oil for frying
Peel, boil and mash yams. Shred and steam cabbage.
With fork, mix -- -1 onions, salt and pep
per. Add a little ,. ,i .... .- dry.
Heat a small amount of oil in large skillet and turn
mixture into it. Flatten mixture and brown. Stir all
then flatten again. Brown, then turn and brown other
side. Serve hot.

Yammy Chips
2 small yams
Oil for frying
Salt, garlic salt, and/or chili power as desired
Boil yams until fork-tender. Peel and place in refrig
erator overnight. Next day, slice as thin as possible
then fry slices a few at a time in very hot, deep oil.
Drain on absorbent paper, sprinkle with salt and
desired spices while hot.

Trini Fish Patties
1 1/2 Cup cooked fish, flaked
1 1/2 Cup yams, boiled and mashed
1 egg
1 Tablespoon onion, minced
1/2 teaspoon salt
Freshly ground black pepper to taste
Flour to coat
Oil for frying
Combine all and form into balls. Roll in flour and
flatten between hands. Heat oil in skillet over medium
heat and brown patties on each side.


Recipes from Shirley Hall
Healthy Yammy Chips
2 pounds yams
2 Tablespoons lemon juice
3 Tablespoons canola oil
li ... 1 .. .;. to taste
I ...... I,,,, I as possible. Rinse slices in cold
water mixed with the lemon juice to keep the flesh
from turning gray. Lay slices on a baking sheet, sprin
kle with oil and toss so both sides of the chips are
coated with oil. Sprinkle chips with salt and pepper for
spicy chips or use nutmeg, cinnamon and sugar for
something different.

Gingered Chicken and Yams
1 pound yams
2 Tablespoons olive oil, divided
1 red onion, peeled and chopped
1/2 pound boneless chicken breasts
2 Tablespoons minced ginger root
4 chives, chopped
3 Tablespoons soy sauce
3 Tablespoons water
1 Tablespoon brown sugar
1 Tablespoon cornstarch
Salt and spices to taste
Slice yams and chop into matchstick-sized pieces.
Chop chicken into small pieces.
Heat one Tablespoon of the oil in a large frying pan
on medium heat. Add yam sticks, and onion. Cook for
five minutes stirring frequently. Spoon off into a cov
ered bowl and keep warm.
Increase heat to high and add the other Tablespoon
of oil, chicken, and ginger. Cook for five minutes till
chicken is no longer pink inside. Return the yams and
onion to the pan with the chicken and mix in the
remaining ingredients. Bring to a boil and simmer for
three to five minutes.
Remove from heat and serve with rice or pasta.

Yam Biscuits
1 pound yams
2 Cups baking flour
1 Tablespoon baking powder
1 teaspoon salt
2 teaspoons brown sugar
1/2 cup shortening or vegetable oil
1/2 cup milk
Bake yams, mash and set aside. In a large bowl sift
all dry ingredients together. Use whisk or an electric
mixer (set on medium) to mix in the mashed yams and
shortening for about two minutes. Slowly add milk to
the yam mixture.
Spread wax paper on your countertop to reduce the
mess, and then dump the bowl's contents onto it.
Knead for about a minute, until just slightly moist.
Lightly roll out mixture to about an inch thick.
Cut out biscuits about two inches in diameter.
Place about two inches apart on an ungreased bak
ing sheet. Roll all leftover pieces together to make
more biscuits.
Bake in the oven at 450F for about 15 minutes or
until biscuits are lightly browned on top.

Mango and Yam Surprise
1 pound yams


4 to 6 nice-sized mangos, ripe to overripe
1/2 Cup brown sugar
3 Tablespoons baker's flour
1/4 teaspoon grated nutmeg
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
2 Tablespoons butter or margarine
1/2 Cup peanuts or almonds
1 Cup miniature marshmallows (optional)
Boil, peel and chop yams. Peel and slice mangoes.
In a large bowl, mix together sugar, flour, nutmeg,
and cinnamon. Add butter and nuts and mix until
mixture starts to crumble.
In a two-quart oven-proof dish, arrange mixed
yam and mango pieces. Cover with sugar mixture,
and marshmallows if used, and bake at 350F for
35 minutes.

Simple Yam Soup
3 pounds yams
2 medium-size sweet peppers (prefer red for color)
5 Cups chicken broth
1/2 hot pepper, seeded and minced (optional)
1/2 red or yellow onion, chopped
2 cloves garlic, minced
2 Tablespoons minced chadon bene
Salt and seasoning to taste
Peel and slice yams. Combine all ingredients in a
large pot and simmer on medium heat until vegetables
are tender.

Stuffed Yams
3 pounds yams (about a pound each)
1 pound medium shrimp
2 Tablespoons butter or margarine
1 medium onion, peeled and chopped
4 chives
2 cloves garlic, minced
1/2 Cup milk
salt and spice to taste
Peel yams and cut in half lengthwise. Boil in salted
water, careful to avoid breaking. Scoop out center of
yam halves so that only an inch of the shell remains.
Mash the scooped-out yam.
Boil, peel and de-vein shrimp
In butter, saute onion, chives, shrimp, and gar
lic. Mix in the mashed yam and the milk. Season
to taste. Fill yam hollows with mixture and broil
until browned.

Yam Fritters
2 pounds yams
1 Cup flour
1/2 Cup grated cheddar cheese
3 eggs, beaten
1 medium onion, grated
1 clove garlic, minced
1 .li .. 1 -. . .; ; to taste

Peel and chop yams. Boil yam pieces until tender.
Drain the liquid but retain about a half-cup.
In a large bowl, mash yams, adding the cooking liq
uid until the yams are almost creamy. Add flour,
cheese, eggs, onion, garlic and seasonings.
In a frying pan or wok, place three inches of oil and
heat to high. Carefully place yam mixture by the
spoonful into hot oil and fry for three to four minutes
until golden brown.


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recently purchased oil painting depicting the rescue of
some shipwrecked sailors. Unable to identify any infor
mationaboutthea -1 i 11. ........ i it appears to be
aH.W.STiestley) Ic. i i .1 i 1 painting (1900)
and a name on the rescue vessel in the i ...' -i.
In earlier investigation I found an .. I I I. ... the
New York Times which mentions the steamer Hubert
returning from St. Vincent with a group of five men
from the wrecked ship Grace Linwood (spelled
"Lynwood" in Mr. Richardson's article). While in the
harbor of Barbados on September 10, the hurricane
hit, and the Grace Linwood's anchor line fouled with
another sailing ship, the Luenda (spelled "Loanda" in
Mr. Richardson's article). They beat against one
another but finally the Grace Linwood's anchor chain
parted and all the next day was driven west until
wrecking on the shore of St. Vincent, 96 miles from
the harbor of Barbados.
Thanks to Duncan's article; it helped me identify the
exact location where the wreck and rescue occurred!
Donovan Rafferty

Hi, Compass,
I have just sailed down from Spain to Brazil and
have been looking/asking for info on Venezuela
regarding boat storage and berthing. I got very little on
the net, with many sites inoperable. Bahia Redonda
was the only one that managed a reply, courtesy of
Josilene.
Then a fellow yachtie passed me an October 2007
issue of Compass. Hey, a few pages were missing, but
all in all I got a lot of info very, very quickly. Anyone
who does not think that advertising works should
think again, as I will most likely visit/berth/moor at
many of the places featured in the mag.
From the magazine, I then found your Readers'
Forum on the net. Your reply to Mary Draker on the
yacht Kristina, regarding fees in Venezuela, told me
just about all I need to know. Thank you.
John C.
Yacht Wild Card


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40 years, 36 with Lloyds, and my claims
settlement record cannot be beat.
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Iolaire Enterprises (353) 28 33927
or e-mail streetiolaire@hotmai.com r


. i


Hi, Compass,
I just picked up my first issue of the Compass the
other day (the November 2007 issue). Tall have put a
lot of effort into a great complimentary publication.
While I am not a cruiser, I do live in the Caribbean,
and have my own 17-foot pleasure boat, but don't go
far -and won't after today. I think that if I was aspir
:. I ...- I now would wake up in cold sweats, and
i i i I -. a boat, I'd place a full-page ad in your
classified to off it quickly, and not tell anyone why.
While r .li -.- -f your articles, I came across the
one abo II'..- I [Editor's note: the Advanced
Passenger Information System is no longer being applied
to yachts]. APIS does not concern me personally, but I am
an advocate of freedom (one of the many reasons that I
would never want to return to the Communist States of
America). I am an advocate of no more regulations. There
are enough already. There is one way to solve the APIS
problem: all you ;-;;: ;- i'.t 1 ,n't go to those particular
islands. Simple. ...- Look at the globe. LOTS
of blue water. Go elsewhere. Problem solved.
But I was most disturbed by some of the letters to
the editor. There were two readers ,,i,. .bout their
experiences with law enforcement II .1- and the
judicial systems in the USVI and BVI. It was scary,
reading what happened to these folks.
I am not sure about BVI law, but I know the corruption
in the US, and the corruption in the judicial system, and
all' .. .. I ,-ii i11 11 ... -and see thatin
the i 'I .. 1 .i- i .. well) the lesser
the offense, the harsher the penalty. This is outrageous,














It's possible that this
1900 painting
depicts a scene from
the 1898 hurricane
That swept ships out
-" fe of their Barbados
,anchorage to be
4.i wrecked on the coast
of St. Vincent









officials terrorizing these folks for such petty mis steps
while all the real criminals run away with the bacon.
Then there was the poor fellow who got scammed
and extorted after running aground on Union Island,
when they charged him outrageous amounts of cash
to free his boat it 1.1 have been easier and cheap
er to light the .1 .1h and take a commercial flight
back.) Ironically, you placed this letter in the same
issue as you focused on that part of the Caribbean!
I realize that being a cruiser, for many people,
means having a lifetime of savings either in the rig, or
to live on, and many bad guys know and take advan
tage of this fact. There are more and more unscrupu
lous people in the world.
Anyway, thanks for the enlightenment. I will contain
ue to seek your publication, but I think any ideas of
cruising are now confirmed dead.
Ayo,
JP
Bonaire

Dear JP,
Thanks for the kind words about Compass. It's a real
group effort, and everyone involved from Cockpit Crew
to advertisers, contributors, pointers, island agents and
distributors to first time letter writers like yourself
deserves a hand
The things that you say have turned you off the idea of
ever cruising the Caribbean instances of bureaucracy,
unfair application of the law, and the actions of unscrupu
lous people -certainly exist in the region. But they also
exist universally. As you say, ifyoufollow the news in the
US, or anywhere else (except where the news is state con
trolled propaganda or tourist orientedfantasy), you'llfind
plenty of examples. I'll bet you could cite examples ashore
in Bonaire, too staying put doesn't make you immune to
these kinds of trouble. But we think that on balance, the
cruising lfe in the Caribbean is pretty good You'll have to
think of better excuses for not taking the plunge.
CC
Continued on next page


Dear Compass,
Thank you for the April 2007 article entitled
"Reappearing Wreck Linked to 1898 Hurricane".
Imagine my surprise when I came across Duncan
Richardson's article while researching the origin of a




P.







Continued from previous page
Dear Compass,
The possible death' i ... ....... . I I Cruises,
founded by Mike 1 "I ... I i - 1 orted by
Norman Faria in the November issue of Compass. I
say "good riddance".
I saw Burke's operation from the early days.
Frequently, when crew walked off the boat for non
payment of wages, Burke flew in a replacement crew
that quickly departed with the boat, leaving the
unpaid crew stranded on the beach.
Safety was abominable. In the 1970s Jeff Hammond,
an editor of Yachting and Motorboating and Sailing,
wrote that over the years until then, at last seven pas
.1 crew were lost overside and not recovered.
.11 I -ow of the tragic fate of the Windjammer
fleet's Fantome, lost with 31 crew aboard in 1998's
Hurricane Mitch. _-r-lin t- the book The Ship and
The Storm by Jim .... 0-07-135526-X), her
stability was so bad she may have capsized when it
was blowing only 45 to 50 knots. Would the Fantome
have passed a proper safety inspection done by an
internationally recognized authority?
Can any of the Windjammer fleet pass a proper safe
ty inspection done by an internationally recognized
body? The crew, many of them West Indians, are
young, enthusiastic and trying, but are they properly
trained? Are the officers properly licensed to be cap
t t- l -t-1 i-..s of the size of
,, ,I ........ i.. i I .1 , law passed w ell
S . 1. I . two cruiseships
.* ,-,. .. .. .... . i.. high casualties)
S, ... ... i ... .. ssels with wood
en decks?
Name Withheld by Request

Editor's note: For more information on Windjammer
Barefoot Cruises current status visit www.windjam
mer.com/pressrelease.html and www.consumeraf
fairs.com/travel/windammer. html

Dear Compass,
A few months ago, a Sr. Gomez wrote a controversial
letter about Venezuelan politics to the Compass which
generated numerous responses. The Compass then
stated that enough was enough, and would only pub
lish further comments on the political situation here if
the safety of cruisers was involved. Roger that, matey!
It was therefore a disappointment to read an article
in the November 2007 issue that quoted a highly
charged political phrase. It made my blood boil, as no
doubt it did amongst Venezuelans. This cruiser was
visiting a children's zoo! So why use that rhetoric dur
ing an innocent day out? I assure you it had nothing
to do with the admission price. Cruisers who perpetu-
ate this nonsense seem intent on spreading collateral
damage wherever they go.
Politics aside, also in the November Compass a visi
tor stated that the patrols and curfews in the canal
system at Puerto La Cruz, Venezuela, were "crimping
their fun" as they can no longer go to the MareMares
marina for dinner by dinghy. If you can afford to eat
there a couple ,,, .1i week, you can afford a taxi,
which is more I ,, I, .1 to the community. This cur
few has been imposed for nearly a year and is paying
dividends. I live on a canal that has a short-cut to the
sea for dinghies and small powerboats. Before the cur
few and patrols, Venezuelans as young as ten tried to
re-enact the golden age of flying boats in rubber ducks
that papi had bought them, powered by 60-horsepow
er motors -they were out of control. It therefore came
as no surprise to hear about a serious accident which
resulted in the death of one Venezuelan who became
shark bait when he came into contact with the prop.
There are some cruisers who also act in an irrespon
sible manner. They load their dinghies up at the Plaza
Mayor and take the short cut, full ahead and to hell
with bank erosion.
At the beginning of 2007, another visitor stated that
the non-availability of diesel in Puerto La Cruz was
due to "unscrupulous cruisers", Give me a break. How
much fuel does the average sail boat carry, 600 or 700
liters? Thats not worth smuggling. The problem was
with the Venezuelan fishermen who converted their
fish holds into fuel tanks and were supplying Asian
longliners in the islands. This same person also chas
tised another cruiser for insulting the marina staff.
The phrase that was used is not considered an insult
here; it is commonly used as an expression of frustra
tion, much the same as we would use four-letter
words if something had dropped into the bilge.
Peter Phillips
Venezuela

Dear Peter,
We appreciate your long-term resident's perspective on
the scene in Venezuela, but disagree with a couple of
the criticisms of other Compass contributors.
For readers who didn't see the November edition, the
cruiser who visited the zoo in Merida, Venezuela,
praised the reasonable price of admission, saying,
"Like many places we've seen so far here in Venezuela,
they're not out to rip you off I'm sure they could charge
a lot more but then people couldn't afford to go.... That
is, I suppose, socialism, which is blatantly advertised


on walls and buildings everywhere: 'Socialism,
Patriotism or Death!'" It seems clear that the writer of
the article was simply relating what he'd seen posted
on walls during his trip, just as many tourists in Cuba
take souvenir photos of all the Che Guevara portraits,
without considering it a political act.
"Socialismo, Patria o Muerte" (perhaps more accu
rately translated as "Socialism, Motherland or Death")
is a catch phrase used by Venezuelan President Hugo
Chavez. This phrase might raise some people's hack
les, no matter what the context, while to others it prob
ably seems no more offensive than New Hampshire's
state license plate motto, "Live Free or Die".
The idea that the words "Socialismo, Patria o Muerte"
must not be repeated, but that it's okay for a visitor to
say "cono de tu madre" ("your mother's c.**") to marina
staff strikes us as a cultural anomaly, to say the least.
Sally

Dear Compass,
I read "A Question of Murder" by Lorna Rudkin
(Caribbean Compass, December 2007) with great
delight; funny and clever at the same time. I hope that
she treats us to some more articles like that.
Julia Bartlett
S/Y Haleiva

Editor's note: For those of you who didn't see Lora's
article, don't panic -it was about exterminating
insects on board!

Dear Compass,
I am Peter Hughes, the Managing Director of the
company that operates "the large blue-and-white live
aboard dive vessel" that was, I am assuming, the ves
sel referred to in Scott Nichols' letter in the January
edition of the Caribbean Compass.
I am at a certain disadvantage here, because the let
ter published on the subject offers no time line as to
when the alleged incident occurred.
ITi .1 I ... .. I concerns me greatly because by
I i ... I .. - interests we operate many such
"liveaboard dive vessels" around the world and were
arguably, one of the first operators ever to install per
manent -i-rIi. (=. long as 30+ years ago) for the
benefit ol 11 ..... I and in particular, for the ben
efit of the environment. We have always done so in
compliance with all local laws and with the safe oper
ation of all other vessels traversing the area in mind.
With this in mind I can assure you we NEVER use
"invisible" moorings ANYWHERE for ANY REASON, for
the most obvious of reasons (e.g.: the situation
referred to being the perfect example) and I can fur
other assure you that we have always marked the Isle
De Ronde mooring as we always do, using a large
white float with a blue stripe around it.
As has unfortunately happened in the past, and I
assume must have this time too, our -n--ri;; floats
have been all too frequently cut away by -... for
"whatever" reasonss?
I also dare to suggest that other vessels frequently uti
lize the moorings and recently a certain research vessel
operating in the area was seen to use the mooring in
question. This vessel is considerably larger than the
M/V WindDancer and is also a considerably larger ves
sel than the mooring was ever intended for -perhaps,
this larger vessel might have damage i 11 ...
I can assure you that prior to the I i .
leaving the area for an unscheduled repair at the
Interisle Fabrication & Construction Co. Ltd, in
Trinidad recently, there ABSOLUTELY WAS a mooring
float on il. .........' 1. i1. vessel's absence it would
appear 1. .. .... ... .. has chosen to cut away
and/or perhaps inadvertently damage the mooring
I-.... i......... .. ii. ... I lijat.
. ... ... I ., -. to Scott Nichols of the
schooner Satori and should Mr. Nichols wish to dis
cuss the matter further, I can be reached at this
address but I DO NOT ACCEPT OR ASSUME
RESPONSIBILITY for the actions of others that are
totally beyond my control i.e. Whoever it was that
cut away or caused to be cut away the mooring mark
er float in our absence.
I hope I have made my position on this most unfor
tunate incident clear and that Mr. Nichols will accept
our sincerest apologies.
Thank you,
Peter A. Hughes
Managing Director
Wind Dancer (Grenada) Limited
PO Box 386
St. George's, Grenada

Dear Compass Readers,
We sailed to Aruba from Europe on our 42-foot
Bavaria via (yawn) hundreds of ports and islands. This
is the best place we have been. But, do not anchor
here -come into the Renaissance Marina.
The marina management is the best we have ever
encountered. Security is excellent. The marina service
es are excellent. All work we have had done has been
controlled by the marina office with effortless efficient
cy. You also get all the services of the two 4 or 5 star
hotels 'cause they own the marina.
Continued on next page


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Continued from previous page
The whole town is within walking distance: enter
tainments, food, nightclubs beyond imagination.
Jennifer's (the wife) hobbies are shopping and gam-
bling. She is in heaven here.
For the girls, the .... 1. 1..1 .. full of tall Dutch
young men, average .. I For the boys, leggy
i, and Venezuelan girls who are a subtle mix
SI1 .. blood, Indian blood and plastic surgery.
Sail here if you can.
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Dear Compass,
Chris Doyle wrote about progress in the Tobago
Cays Marine Park in January's Compass.
For many years, full-time liveaboard cruisers have
worked tirelessly to protect the natural beauty of the
Tobago Cays by picking up trash on the islands and
helping bareboaters anchor in the proper places. I can't
count the number of times I and other cruisers have
cleaned up the garbage on the islands, putting it on our
boats and taking it to Union Island to dispose of prop
erly. Or the number of times we went over to a bareboat
charter party and suggested that they anchor in a place
that would not damage the ecosystems.


Should frequent repeat visitors to marine parks such as
the Tobago Cays be able to purchase multiple entry
annual passes?
I had the opportunity to talk with Father Andrew
Roache, Chairman of the i .. Cays Marine Park
Board, in early January. i. i a nice discussion
about the .. i ...i .i 1 .... .-.... 1 ;. ;;.
marking 11ii 1i, , .- I I i ... .... i i
the area where there are now numerous Green Turtles
--int and restoring the dinghy m--;-i;n near the
: for snorkelers so that the : i- .. protected.
Their work is making a difference!
During my conversation with Reverend Father
Andrew, I made a suggestion that he said warranted
further consideration by the Board of Directors of the
TCMP. My suggestion was to have a system that would
allow private yachts crewed by the liveaboard owners
to purchase an annual pass to the Tobago Cays
Marine Park.
Unlike the charter boats, where the people are pay
ing vast sums for a short vacation, many long-term
cruisers are living on fixed-income retirement checks
or limited budgets. Under the per person per day entry
fee system, spending a few weeks every season in the
Tobago Cays is now out of reach for many cruisers. We
who have for years helped take care of the Tobago
Cays can now no longer afford to enjoy them as we did
in years past.


It is also important to consider the impact to the local
economy if we bypass the Cays and sail on to other des
tinations. I spent some time visiting with Walter, one of
the old-time locals servicing the boats in the Cays. He
confirmed that a numTr-- -f -1-iii fri-;--= h- has
made over the years I .... .." ., i,. not
been here recently, or, when they come, spend just a
few days and move on. This has impacted his business
and to make ends meet he has had to raise his prices
for bringing bread, ice, and other supplies to the cruis
ers because there are fewer cruisers enjoying the Cays.
"The charter boats are still here," he said, "but my
friends are no longer coming or staying just a few days."
I also spent some time with Heather Grant, who
manages Erica's Yacht Services in Clifton on Union
Island, talking about this. She is also on the Board of
Directors of the TCMP and thought my -.... -1. .. of
an annual pass was worth considering. .11 i a
while about a price that might be acceptable to both
the cruisers and the Board. The local service boats all
pay an annual fee of EC$250 for a permit to work in
the park. I suggested a similar fee for private yachts
crewed by their owners for an annual pass. The pass
would be sold at the TCMP office in Clifton, which
would verify that the pass was issued to liveaboard


cruisers on their private yacht, not in commercial use.
Charters of any kind and private yachts with paid pro
fessional crew would still pay the daily park fee col
elected by the park rangers as would private yachts
who did not wish to purchase an annual pass.
Another suggestion was to have some sort of a flag for
pass holders to fly just below the St. Vincent & the
Grenadines courtesy flag that announces to all that the
boats a "Friend ci 1, I .. [Editor's note: There
is a registered . I .." t St. Vincent & the
Grenadines called Friends of the Tobago Cays, so this
name would not be available to park pass holders
unless, of course, they also joined this worthy environment
tal watchdog organization. For more information on Frends
of the Tobago Cays, contact marlon.mills@gmaiLcom.]
The intent of this is two-fold: First to recognize the sig
nificant work that cruisers have done to support the
Tobago Cays in the past and to foster a sense of co-oper
action between the cruising community and the TCMP.
And second, cruisers who are granted an annual pass
would be expected to help the park rangers by continuing
to assist newcomers to the park to anchor in the proper
places and 1 ample of conduct in the Cays.
Heather t i I .,, 11, benefit to cruisers from the
new park rules. Service boats are now held strictly
accountable for their actions and courtesy to guests of
the Tobago Cays.
Continued on next page


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Continued from previous page
A particular "bad boy" recently had his permit to work
in the Cays revoked for 30 days with the warning that
any further complaints against him would result in a
permanent ban from any future work servicing guests
of the Cays.
So far this is just a suggestion from myself to the
TCMP Board. If you support my suggestion and would
like to enjoy the Cays without the worry of daily fees,
please let your voice be heard through the Compass or
by writing directly to the TCMP Board at
tcmpl91@hotmail.com, phoning Father Andrew at
(784) 485-8191, or stopping by the TCMP office in
Union Island for a chat.
Sincerely,
Dalton Williams
S/V Quietly
Dear Compass,
I believe in giving credit when it really is due. Just
short of three years old, my Kiss wind generator died.
The instruction booklet that came with my unit
claimed a three-year warranty. Upon my return in the
spring, I dropped it off at their business in
Chaguaramas to be repaired. I eagerly awaited the
opportunity to put it back in operation as wind gener
ation of electricity sure beats running the engine and
heating up the boat.
I couldn't test it then until my return to Sirius
Endeavour in the early fall as I readied her for a new
season of cruising. We left almost as soon as we
splashed the water and within one week we were in
Martinique. Alas, the newly re-conditioned wind gen


erator failed almost immediately, suffering a seizure in
the real sense.
After an unreturned e-mail to Kiss, I phoned and
spoke with Doug. Explaining the situation and asking
for advice on what might be wrong, he paused and
said, "Why don't I just send you a new unit, minus the
blades and control?"
AND HE DID! It was waiting for me upon our
arrival in St. Martin, just like he said. Thanks, Doug,
for standing behind your products with service and
integrity a cut above.
Don Freeman
S/V Sirius Endeavour
Dear Compass Readers,
We want to hear from YOU!
Please include your name, boat name or address,
and a way we can contact you (preferably by e-mail) if
clarification is required.
We do not publish individual consumer complaints or
individual regatta results complaints. (Kudos are okay!)
We do not publish anonymous letters; however, your
name may be withheld from print at your request.
Letters may be edited for length, clarity andfair play.
Send your letters to:
sally@caribbeancompass.corn
or fax (784) 4573410
or
Compass Publishing Ltd.
Readers' Forum
Box 175BQ
Bequia
St. Vincent & the Grenadines


We're on the Web!
www.caribbeancompass.com


C MPASS


ATTENTION,

PLEASE!

Anyone who sent e-mail to
ill * i,',i ,i ,, .. iii. . -1 - .. ..i b etw een
January 16th and January 22nd, please
re-send it. That e-mail in-box sprang a
leak and sank without a trace!
Please do not send any spam, jokes,
etcetera -just Compass-related e-mail.
Thanks


(unpri ,n druler

7EL400 O&AL
./;- SO


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5) International Oceanographic Data
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6) Indian Ocean Tsunami Warning System
7) Marine Information Alliance
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Letter of



' the Month


Dear Compass,
Regarding the article in the August 2007 issue of Compass by Aubrey Millard
about his night time entrance to Christiansted Harbor, St. Croix. Sailors who know
the area advise against doing this, as through the years so many boats have ground
ed here (some ending up as total losses) that no one has an accurate count.
A medical emergency, however, made it imperative that i .. .I ... 1. With
it blowing hard, and a strong westerly set of the current, i ..., I II 11. I. .rbour
entrance was not an option.
The use of a 20-year-old pilot book is acceptable, IF it were written by someone
familiar with the area. But looking at the courses sailed by Veleda, it seems the
author of the pilot book was not familiar with the island of St. Croix nor the entrance
to Christiansted Harbour.
Aubrey and his wife safely got into the harbour and anchored by dint of good nav
igation, good piloting, good boat handling and a bit of good luck. I say this as Veleda
passed between Buck Island and St. Croix; luckily they did not hit Channel Rock
that has nailed a number of boats in the past.
The sailing directions in my first guide -the privately printed 1964 Yachtsman's
Guide to the Virgin Islands- recommended :.ii ---i.t was locally referred to as the
"schooner channel". The guide said, rougl- i i 1 i for the radio tower by Fort
Louise Augusta, stand on in, leave flashing red 4 to starboard continue on in until
you are very close aboard, run along the shore and gradually bear off." Then direc
tions are given to the anchorage west of Protestant Cay.


These directions were repeated in my 1966 Cruising Guide to the Lesser Antilles,
and again in its 1979 revision and expansion. In the '79 guide i .i, ..1 com-
mended not following the normal marked channel (as Veleda i. II .-....... this
channel requires two right angle turns, a 500-yard run dead downwind, and usual
ly two gybes -and then still you are not home free as you can easily clip the
unbuoyed Little Middle Ground.
These directions have been re-printed in all Street's Guides since then, but in the
later guides I said not to anchor west of Protestant Cay as the area is too crowded
with local boats.
Also to keep in mind is the fact that electronic charts are no better than the charts
they are copied from. The C Map chart of St. Croix is taken from an inaccurate NOAA
chart. I can say without fear of contradiction that the Imray Iolaire chart A234 is the
most accurate chart of St. Croix available.
The NOAA and BA charts of St. Croix have been compiled from surveys done in the
middle 1930s, with updates. The Christiansted Harbor update is from a dredge com-
pany's 1990 survey that I discovered was in error when we were making our A234
in the early 1990s.
In about 1990 Captain Nick Castruccio, USN Ret., said that, racing in the regat
tas off St. Croix, the locals had an "-lrntl^- as they knew where the coral heads
and shoals were and could "rock i. I ..... better than visiting yachtsmen. He
asked if Imray could do a very detailed chart from Salt River, east. We agreed to do
it as I knew that in the middle 1980s NOAA had done an unpublished but very
detailed survey of St. Croix, so detailed that they lost two inshore survey boats in
the surf Captain Nick promised that he and other members of the St. Croix Yacht
Club would help.
I was given a copy of the dredge company's survey by the Harbor Master. The east
ern side of the harbour did not look correct, so I got in the dinghy and, with a sound
ing pole, checked and found eight feet of water to within a boat length of shore,
where i. I l . -.... -iowed shoal water. I asked questions and dis
coverecl 11. .. I 11.I I.- I .. The dredge company needed a place to moor
their equipment clear of the channel, so they dredged the eastern side of the har
bour. But that was not allowed on their EPA permit, so they left it off their survey.
D.M. Street, Jr
Ireland











The



Missionary Position



for Cruisers

by Julia Bartlett

The Missionary Position is where you lie back on your air-conditioned bunk and
ask -well, beg, might be a better word -for the money to maintain a cruising
lifestyle. It works; that's all you have to do, and I jest not.
Now, in case you are thinking that such a cruising lifestyle means scraping by
on a tiny sailboat, no air conditioning, no refrigeration, rowing ashore, only drink
ing at happy hour and eating enough for the week at Tuesday's pot luck, let me
disillusion you.



SCruising on a
c "'..SJ!!!!& 'heavenly'
budget: the
.V 70ofoot,fully
loaded Jireh







I am talking an immaculately maintained 70-foot trawler yacht, the best marina in
town, a center-console RIB dink with a 50-horsepower outboard, a shoreside vehi
cle to : -.1 , ;.; .1 11. : mall in the next town, and a night guard to keep an eye on
it all .. 1 i -
This is not a scam: cruisers Brent and Sharon Borthwick are right up front about
i, , i I. .'hl the money they receive in donations. Their website is com
I I i i ,, buttons and, if you are moved to help these good folk, you
can do so by credit card.
Here are some excerpts from their website, www.windword.ca, to give you an idea
of their cruising needs:

January 2007
I do not have the money to haul the boat, but we have to do it. I do not have the
money to fuel it up, but we have to do it. I just keep putting it all on my Credit Card,
but how are we going to pay the bill? I know God will provide, but He wants me to tell
you our needs. I am asking, please, anything you can do to help. Whatever God lays
on your heart, ifyou are not sure it is God and it might be you, then double it, triple it,
I don't know, maybe just give the whole bank! I am praying that $10,000.00 to come
in right now. Maybe $20,000.00, we really need it now. I do not think you have ever
heard me ask like this before, but if you usually give $25.00, maybe give $250.00 or
$2,500.00. Maybe take $100.00 to $1,000.00, or even $10,000.0. We have no option
if we continue as missionaries to make money other than through you all. We are
God's servants asking His people for help. Can you imagine just 20 people at
$1,000.00 each is $20,000.00! Please ifyou can, help us ....


May 2007
Please be in prayer as we are all exhausted. The stress of all that has happened,
plus all the work we have been doing on the boat while getting it fixed. I am tired and
my herniated disk in my back has been acting up again, so a fair amount of pain. I
checked on the new invasive disk surgery down here, 30 minutes and up and about
the same day, $25,000.00!!! Why does Canada do the old-fashioned surgery with 6
weeks recovery and lots of pain, plus waiting how long for the surgery? I have put all
our expenses on my Master Card, and I do not know how we will pay the bill when it
comes in. Diesel fuel bottom repair, generator repair, stocking up on food, dockage,


The Borthwicks, whose liveaboard missionary lifestyle is funded by donations
solicited on their website


etc.... plus I have yearly boat insurance due the first week ofJune, about $7,000.00....
June 2007
Pray for ourfinances as we need to pay $7,900.00 for boat insurance for another
year, due by June Oth. Seems impossible as our accounts are depleted, but I know
God is in control, and He does not want us to stop now. We need fuelfor the boat for
this last leg of this part of God's ministry journey! Pray for strength.
July 2007
Please pray as we need to purchase a vehicle as soon as possible. We use the little
boat to get to the villages on the river, but we need a vehicle to get to the churches and
100s of other villages in the area, and for teams. There is a perfect small Chevy pick
up for sale, four doors and seats 6, 4x4, turbo diesel so good on fuel, year 2000, and
Guatemalan registry which is what we need. It is a little rough with dents, paint fade,
oil leaks, etc., but it would be a great vehicle for us. They want $7,000 US, but I would
like to try to get itfor $5,000 ifI can afford it. Another step offaith, so for now we walk,
but please be in prayer about a vehicle for us.

Now, I always had a vision of missionaries as folk who moved into a community and
lived, more or less, as the local people lived. It involved a lifestyle that really didn't do much
for me, which goes to show how out of date I am. Nowadays, you swan up a river through
the jungle, with all those horsepower of engines guzzling fuel, and arrive in the local vil
1 crisp and neat fresh from your luxury yacht, full of the love of God. Cool.
S lon't believe that it's possible to fund luxury cruising by having a lot of peo
ple praying for you and exercising their credit cards, have a look at www.wind
word.ca. Now are you a believer?
There is a down side though. You have to preach to parents who send their chil
dren to Casa Guatemala, an orphanage, during the week because they can't afford
to feed them at home. The volunteers at the orphanage live in rough wooden dormi
stories with no electricity, which means no fan, let alone air conditioning, and have
to time their showers for the couple of hours a day the water is on, and manage with
candles after dark. But I am sure that when they have read the Borthwick's web
-- they'll be moved to spare a little towards these cruisers' pressing needs.
i. am I left feeling that something's wrong here?
Perhaps I am just having one of my cynical days.








ST. THOMAS YACHT SALES
Compass Point Marina, 6300 Est. Frydenhoj, Suite 28,
St. Thomas, U.S.V.I. 00802


Tel: (340) 779-1660
Fax: (340) 779-2779
yachts@ islands.vi


40' 1984 Endeavour Sloop
$95,000


49' 1979 Transpacific Ketch
$199,000


Sail
33' 1973 Pearson 10M Sloop, refit, new eng. paint,
40' 1984 Endeavour sloop, Well maintained, ready to cruise,
49' 1979 Transpacific Ketch, Bluewater cruiser, Excellent cond.
55' 1956 Custom Yawl, Excellent charter business, CG cert for 18

Power
30' 1987 Luhrs Alura, Lobster/Picnic boat, diesel
31' 1998 Sea Ray Sundancer, Excellent Condition
43' 1990 Marine Trader, A/C, radar, never chartered
44' 1986 Tollycraft MY, Cockpit, twin cats


$ 33,500
$ 95,000
$199,000
$250,000


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$ 85,000
$129,500
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5 :.trmi.-.r,,. n1l 52'Jeanneau Sun Odyue'03.3 cab 42514 K r.ir3r. 3SC: '. li3 .db hI h '
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46 Hunle 460 Ol.4 cab 169K it. Mo..d, Ci rj I rt 139K
46 F,-rrfmn.a P *i, rnn '" CuI-i .' c 99K 36 CheoyLeeClipper'71 Ketch.I cab 40K
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42 Hunier Passage 95 2cabi2 hd 139K 56'HorzonMotorYachlt1 4cab/3hd 690K
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42BeneteauOcans42'03CC2cab 165K 36'HeitageEast36'01.2avall. 187K
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heather@baysldyacyhtscom. alain@bayislandyachdscom


Because of the large new Imri ;;. t-: hed in St. George's Lagoon, this
subject is very much in the : 1. minds in Grenada. But before
people get too excited and start offering half baked, and in some cases impossible,
schemes to eliminate yacht-generated pollution in St. George's Lagoon, let us look
at the situation harbor by harbor in the Eastern Caribbean, starting with St.
Thomas and continuing south to Grenada.
Fifteen years ago in St. Thomas, USVI, I was walking along the Charlotte Amalie
waterfront, when a pick-up truck driver offered me a lift. It was an old friend whom I
had not seen in 20 years. During that time he had gone to the States, obtained an engi
;-- T-- returned and had been working as an engineer for the VI government
: ...... The subject of sewage treatment came up. He reported that, at that
time, St. Tii .. . .I ..... i i ,, was so overloaded that 50 percent of it went
into the ..... .i .I .. 11. I ... ras broken down so all the sewage went in
untreated. In the light of that, the amount of sewage generated by yachts in St.
Thomas Harbor was immaterial. I mention this because the same situation exists
today in many islands where population growth has out-stripped the infrastructure.













Although land-based sources may create the most marine pollution, yachts do
contribute. In years gone by, although none had holding tanks, yachts were small
er and fewer. Their gradual discharge of sewage dissipated, broke down and caused
little problem. But the exponential expansion of yachting, including increasing num-
ber -f -, 1-,t: 1,. --.;: 1 i. l -lem in some places.
F I i .11, i I .. .i11 .. I 1. similar to that ofthe BritishVirgin Islands
which states that holding tanks cannot be discharged within 1,000 yards of shore. This
means that sewage in any quantity is discharged in deep water where there is a strong cur
rent The effluent is quickly dissipated, breaks down and is not a pollution problem.
Yacht-generated pollution has been less of an issue in some harbors than in oth
ers. In Christiansted, St. Croix, for example, the ocean swell comes in over the long
reef, filling a harbor that has as its only exit a narrow channel. This creates a real
ly 1 if Icleaning current.
S.- Cay, Tortola, on the other hand, is an enclosed body of water with no
circulation and plenty of yachts. But still, in comparison to the shore-created pollu
tion the yacht pollution is minimal. When Village Cay Marina was being built there,
the marina's general manager at the time, John Ackland, hired a local team to do a
survey of all the houses on the hillside that drains into Wickham's Cay. They tallied
all the out houses, the homes with improperly installed septic systems or no septic
tanks at all, how many people lived in each house, etcetera. The result was rather
horrific; the amount of sewage draining into the harbor produced by the houses on
the watershed was infinitely greater than whatever could be produced by the yachts.
Maya Cove, the home of the BVI bareboat fleets, I do not think has too much of a
problem as crews join a bareboat and depart, or arrive on a bareboat and depart; no
large group of people resides permanently on boats in Maya Cove. Marina users are,
of course, encouraged to use shoreside toilets.
Most other harbors in the BVI are wide open, with plenty of natural water flow.
Likewise, Anguilla, Barbuda, Statia, St. Kitts, Nevis, Montserrat and Dominica all
have large, open harbors.
But Simpson Lagoon, St. Maarten, has a problem. It is an enclosed body of water,
shallow, without sufficient tidal circulation through its two narrow entrances to
flush it out. In addition to land-based pollution t mn, knnrlrvqP there is as yet no
"no discharge" rule, or even one forbidding i- ..i. I I I i, tanks. Each year
this lagoon becomes more polluted, to the point that I do not know which is worse:
to fall into it and drown or fall into it and be rescued.
Jolly Harbour in Antigua is one of the most environmentally friendly marina develop
ments in the Caribbean. The way they save, use and re-use every drop of rainwater that
fallsis toolongto describe here, a ii . I i ..... ii .,. i.-
al plant. Again,'. t : ...t-1-... I I I... ........... .... .
induced marine1 I, ,, 1 . i -,11 . I
i ..1 .. -i ,,,I I... .. problem. Although the marinas there encourage use of
I I ,,I I i. ,1,, i I pump-out-truck service for holding tanks, in Falmouth
Harbour I know of no regulation that actually requires yachts to go out of the harbor
to discharge their holding tanks. As a result, an unknown quantity of yacht sewage is
pumped directly into the harbor. Residents point out that annually, almost all the
yachts have departed by June, leaving Falmouth Harbour virtually empty until late
November when the yachts start arriving for the season. They report that during the
summer, the harbour starts cleaning itself, to the point that by October it is a pleas
ure to swim in. But in November, the whole pollution process starts again.
Continued on next page


Read in Next Month's Compass:


Hummingbird's Cuban Cruise

The Chartering Life Revisited

Notes from a Carriacou Sloop

... and more!







Continued from previous page
English Harbour has less of a problem: the outer harbour is quite clean; only the
inner harbour is stagnant and polluted. It was proposed in Nelson's time, 200 years
ago, to dig a ditch through the narrow neck of land between English and Falmouth
Harbours to provide water circulation to minimize pollution. This almost happened
in the 1980s. Why it did not is too long a story to present here.
Falmouth .. I .. .1.i I I -; can be cleaned up considerably if the Government
I I... I .. I, I government: require all yachts to be 1,000 yards off
-, I I I ..... their holding tanks. But would this drive the mega-yachts
to St. Maarten, where they can discharge while in Simpson Lagoon? It is time for the
yachting industry in St. Maarten and Antigua to co-operate and BOTH get their gov
ernments to pass a "no holding-tank -1Vi-br- law.
In the French islands, the amount I discharged by the yachts is minimal
in comparison to the municipal sewage discharge.
In St. Lucia, an independent survey done a number o I .. i
showed that there, too, the majority of pollution was If ,,, I I I ... .. II
from outhouses, poor septic tanks and untreated sewage from Castries and other towns.
St. Lucia has, at present, the yacht based pollution situation pretty much under
control, however. When Rodney Bay Marina was built 25 years ago, they installed a
state-of the-art sewage treatment plant, adeq';t- f-r th- -rii;n;l ri;;.n I1l-: other
marinas, they encourage yachtspeople to use I. -1. -. I ,I- II I. .. treat
ment plant is expanded to take care of the expanded marina, and yachts with holding
tanks are forbidden to discharge inside Rodney Lagoon, and the same thing is done in
in,-r 4-.M7-t P v, the situation in St. Lucia should be well under control.
SI I I I. T. -t-.-.l --"r i-.n c't "Incent are all open with plenty of cur
rent to dissipate I.- I, ... ... ..... I I 1 s. In the Grenadines, too, nearly all
anchorages are or .. 11. il I I .1 11 So all is well, as long as yachts with
holding tanks do not discharge them until they are, as is required in the BVI, 1,000
yards offshore. The Tobago Cays Marine Park has a "no discharge" rule.
Now we come to St. "-- -'. T --, Crmnada. Pollution in this lagoon cannot be
blamed on the yachts, .. I :. ... I in Grenada on lolaire in March of 1961,
the channel into the lagoon had been 1i 1 1 -. .1 ;;t --- i -usly. There
were just two other boats in the lagoon Ii I,* I I ... I .I .1 i ., )with Dodd
German sitting on the stern, and a 45-foot gaff sloop owned by Laddie McIntyre's
older brother. But the lagoon was already well polluted by the run-off from out
houses and poor septic tanks and direct sewage from the local system. As years
went by, the area around the lagoon became more and more populated and pollu
tion increased accordingly.
Port Louis Marina does have options, like building their own sewage treatment
plant and urging those on yachts to use the marina toilets. Then make it an absolute
rule that there can be no discharge from holding tanks within the lagoon. If it is
impossible to build an adequate sewage treatment plant, another solution would be
to run the sewage untreated through a T Czr' -li-V:.-- pipe, long .. ...1, i reach
deep water and h- =tr-n i-rt -,outh I .... .. i II. i est coast oli .. i
On the south .-1 i .. i the harbors are large enough, and the yachting
population small enough (so far) that sewage from yachts is not a problem and will
not be a problem as long as yachts, especially mega-yachts, do not discharge their
holding tanks in harbors.
It is time for ALL the islands to enact the same law as has been enacted in the
BVI: no discharge of holding tanks within 1,000 yards of shore.



CA TA MA -A NS


*63 x 24 Power Cat USCG Stability test for 149 PAX
*Available as single or double deck
Fast delivery Twin Diesel Base Price $299,000




NEW 63' SAIL CAT
SEATING FOR 90 PASSENGERS







i-
-- . .






All new Offshore 53' catamaran Twin diesel,
49 passengers, Base price $199,000

I ...-oi I wloiUl(lll lilllJ.I.I.IJJ..LIai.lJ m


LISTING OF VESSELS FOR SALE PRICES LISTED ARE NEGOTIABLE
EAR TYP PRICE YER TYPE PRICE
1992 29' l..cr- ."l,**... .;iRevducIn USS 18000 1985 43' Gian USS 115O00
1999 30' :-r.. ,.,,..,F i.,',..,c.i $ S 60,O 1999 44 Finngul (Reducedo US 209,000
1978 34' S el SloopROB USS 4.000 1988 44' Hyta USS 250,00
1986 36' Latwrn Tosca US 538.0 1992 45' Fortun US$ 150.000
19M 36' Reinke Super 10 SleeStoop USS 45.000 11t 50 Cesltial PiMahoue USS 68.000
1977 36' P- U.M:-Mii US$ 40,000 1987 51' Bentelau lye55 US5 160.00
1977 3T ,i... .- i-",M .. .-1 EU$ 30E80 1988 52 GrandSaele US$ 275,000
1987 38' .,s. USS 120,00 19 6 53 SuperMaramu Reducewd) US$ 329000
1968 39' ClWyLee OfShomr40 USS 9.000 1982 53' Halras Luy Cruiser US 254,000
1978 40' Allantc4 0 ISS l70.04 1994 55' 1--.tr US 776,000
2002 40' Panoramer40 ( urminiuini SOID! 1973 5~' '', i sI r ,.r US$ 150.000
1999 43' WiquiezPilotSalown EUS 247500


TEAR flfl
19G3 36. ew, Cslan lR&clud for qukk sAi)
20M 31 Fwtnm Pao
2(1 43! Lag= Caeriearni Reducd forqukk SaMIG
19M6 4T GnMac Canswan
19N 54' NwmanCr Tnmiraw
19%6 55 CnutmBuilt T'iaI
1991 55 Lago Caolhwa
IS0 7Z Akin (Lougabiel CfAtiW


PME
Uss 99,500
USS 32sa.0
US$ WWIOC
USS 168,00
US$ 295.0M
USS 36fl,0
USS 559,000
USsI.10,000


CREW VACANCIES!
Semail: crew@tradewindscruiseclub.com
T,.: .- 'Vinds Cruise Club operate a fleet of catamarans across
six destinations in the Caribbean
TRAIIWINDS
We are the fastest growing charter company,
operating TERM CHARTERS, all inclusive, 7 days
We are looking for crew, mainly teams in the form of a Captain and a Chef/Hostess
We prefer couples that are married OR have been living together for at least a year
The nature of the job is such that the better the understanding and teamwork
between Captain and Chef the more successful your charters will be
Requirements Captain with a Skipper's licence
Chef/Hostess with a basic understanding of cooking
Dive master/ instructor for either the Captain and/or Chef is a plus
We offer full training onsite in the Caribbean
This is a FUN job with great earning potential If you are willing to work hard and
have a positive disposition to life this could be your DREAM job
Anyone with an interest is welcome to apply
If you would like more information about this job or send your CV to us, please
use this email address
crew(tradewindscruiseclub.com
or by mail to Bequia Marina, PO Box 194BQ, Port Elizabeth,
Bequia, St Vincent & the Grenadines
Tel St Vincent +784 457 3407 Tel St Maarten +599 5510550

r---- -- ------- -I

I Always enjoy the I

I Compass which allows me I

to stay current on 'de

SCaribbean ting'! I


Bob Mercer

SS/V Ooh La La I



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ICaib I Market aaee ::


I A i


Marketing, Advertising, Consultancy,
Design, Photography Art.
., l. rh-I,.I., i.u11 I 268 720 6868



TEAK
US$10 11 Iboard foot

aribbean Waloods
Bequia, St. Vincent
Phone: (784) 457-3000
caribwoods@vincysurf.com


SFor a safe berth...
SSERU BOCA MARINA!
SWe sell
I and service
Yamaha engines
stbarba@attglobal.net
L www.santabarbaraplantation.com-


Making your stay a memorable one.

he M r I 1 IjI'.m JI SV "


/F[IpENI:~. FIC Fl

THE SPECIALIST FOR
BOAT MAINTENANCE
IN MARTINIQUE


A F" r


Outboard
Propellers!

m< orrptquBerutdnes

I| .Ltd
-- ---,rg


FIRST LTD.

Phone (+596) 596 74 77 70 R Tn, d
carenantilles.marin @ wanadoo.fr Raft
www.carenantilles.com
ae______H_ YaciSh -u 10 l


TechNick Ltd.
Engineering, fabrication and
welding. Fabrication and repair of
stainless steel and aluminium items.
Nick Williams, Manager
Tel: (473) 536-1560/435-7887
S.I.M.S. Boatyard, True Blue, Grenada
technick@spiceisle.com


THIS COULD BE


YOUR
MARKET PLACE AD
Book it now:
tom@caribbeancompass.com


D DOCTORS L tEiartin

SPlu Jtbing
High Tquuali Sin iitgie


Barefoot Yacht Charters
& Marine Centre
Blue Lagoon, St Vincent
Bareboats -Fully Crewed Yachts
ASA Sailing School -Full Service Marine Centre
1 784-456 9526 / 9334






ilb Cp Market alae


To advertise in Caribbean Compass Market Place, see list of island agents on page 4
or contact Tom at (784) 457 3409 tom@caribbeancompass.com


Home of the
5 Year 50,00O0
Mile Guarantee



DOY LE WiE eleven
Bak M*iFa Itocllon* from
www-doyctrlibbeanr om PutlO RIc*O t0
Pa"am4






Marine Distributors
www IslandWaterWorld.com
sales@lslandWaterWorld. com
St Thomas, St Maarten,
St Lucia, Grenada
P: 599-544-5310 F: 599-544-3299


CARIBBEAN CHANDLERIES
BUDGET See our ad
on the
MARINE inside cover

The Caribbean's
Leading Chandlery


Gourmet Ice Cream
Fresh Yogurt
i Frozen Yogurt
Fresh Fruit Sorbets
Toppings
Sundaes
Qts. & Half Gal.'Tubs

Ter BEQUIA
Tel: (784) 458 3041
New Location at Gingerbread Cafe



We are online:
www.caribbeancompass.com


S S










NORTHERN LIGHTS






Ma ineGneaor ww .norher-lights-- ...-com.

Antigu Grenda StCroixSt Marten Dckyar.. . . . .arts. .Powe





















COAA i J i" J ," ,rr
and upgrades in 05 including
new up sized rig, all electron-
ics, separate diesel alterna-
tor/water-maker, batteries,
frdge/freezer interior ground
tackle cockpit cushions/cov-
ersradar/arch, dinghy/davits,
far too much to list, must be
seen, hauled in Antigua, well
below current survey, asking
119,000 Canadian, for
specs/pictures E-mail
Sbentfleysrolls@yahoo.ca







VENUS 46, 194 KETCH fiber-
glass, gc, new engine, very
well equipped, excellent live
aboard and cruiser
US$199,000, lying St. Lucia. For
more info and pictures E-mail
venus46@live.com

33' STEEL CUTTER, MURRAY 1984
Ted Brewer design, 3cyl
Yanmar, self-steering, autpilot
solar, wind generator, water-
maker, SSB, inverter, dinghy,
outboard and much more.
Cruise ready, located in St.
Crox. Just completed 4 year
Caribbean : ... '. ..
Tel (340) .... i-
jddaison2034@yhoo.com
Tel (784) 458-8888

FORMULA III 25' SPORTS
FISHERMAN, 2001, excellent
condition, 200HP Yamdha out
board; high spec including SST-
Top, windshield, rod holders
bow rails, stereo, GPS. New
uphdstery end 2007. Valued
US$35K will accept closest
offer. Located Grenada Tel
(473)-405-3827 or E-mail
kletton@tvaconsultants.com
36' DUTCH STEEL CUTTER 1976
Profurl, Yanmar, B&G instru-
ments & pilot, Lying Trinidad,
repairs needed. Sacrifice
US$7500/offers E-mail
kenm@ufl.edu


CLASSIFIED

PACIFIC SEACRAFT CRE- 6pm Moonlight party every
ALOCK 34 highly regarded full moon. VHF 16
blue water cruiser US$75K


Details on www.petetheno-
mad.com Tel (473) 415-1026


S86 i. *. MASS TURBULENCE GRENADA
ion. plenty of new upgrades has3massstitddefarmono/mrd-
ready to sail, located Palm thuls. 16-17 & 22 meters.
Island, SVG. Info on Tel (473) 439-4495/4158271
www.artandsea.com. E-mail turbsail@spiceisle.com
Tel: (784) 458-8829 E-mail:
palmdoc@caribsurf.com 36HP YANMAR OUBOARD DIESEL
Tel (868) 650-1914
PEARSON 30 BUILT 1973, new (868) 1914
anma 2GM20 new A AVON 19T JE S DINGHY
2 jibs, 2 mains, spinncker iv AVON IFT JE SK DINGHY
CD, wheel steering, lots more. 84hp, 2 years old.
Good condition, OFFERS "" Email
PLEASE !E-mail ': :
nicolal 11 @bequia.net

Irtf .~7~I .


3PEC ArLA IA i .- i.,,
England 1993 strong and com-
forable, good condition, lyin
Margarita US$20,000 E-mail
masha uber@hotmail.com







2001 LAGOON 43 POWER
CAT excellent condition,
loaded electronics, 12'x21
upper deck w/full cover, 9 x
170w solar panels, 16 Trojan
batteries, new inflatable
-irl-l .. '10hp Mercury.
S" Tel (868)
i -_ " E-m ail
zazenzafaun@hotmail.com





L 0'

J. c a IPA.. E Pc "t i ,
"1 l 1 I'l'l" e4 .L



bunks, bait well, tackle stor-
age, radar, GPS, auto
lo.Trinidad Tel (868) 6804210


BEQUIA BEQUIA CANVAS
Interior/exterior/cus-
tomized canvas specialist
Tel (784) 457-3291 E-mail
beqcan@caribsurf.com
FEELING STRESSED?
www.clearthemind.5u.com
Grenada (473)414-1274

CARIBBEAN VIRTUAL OFFICE
providing concierge,
catering, errand services,
mail management and for-
warding, bill payment, pur-
chasing, sourcing, reserva-
tions and a host of other
services. Tel (473) 404-2707


ST. VINCENT NZIMBU ARTS &
CRAFTS for high quality indige
ni l hnnnr crafc ind rirrie


FRIENDSHIP BAY, BEQUIA drum Tel (784) 457-1677/531-
Lovely 1250 sq ft. cottage, 100 2897 www.reimbu-browne.com
yards from beach. 2 master E-mail rimbu000@yahoo.com
bedrooms, 1 guest bedroom,
ful kitchen, laundry, level with
road no stairs! 12558 sq ft of UNDEWATER DIVING SERVICES
land, fenced with mature sdvage/emegency/moogsii
fruit trees. US$320000, Term f ba Al under 71ate s/5evi
rental available. E-mail Tel (473) 537-9193/538-468
jocelyne.gautier@wanadoo.fr E-mdl fasiorboat@yahoo.fr


CARRIACOU, ONE ACRE LOTS
and multi acre tracts. Great
views overlooking Southern
Grenadines and Tyrrel Bay
www.carbtrace.com


WATERMAKERS Complete sys-
tems, membranes, spares and
service available at Curacao
and Puerto La Cruz Venuela.
Check our prices at
wwwwatercrafwaterm aker cn
In PI C Td (8d) 416-3894187


Road Town, Tortda, BVI. Must diesel, electrical, electronics,
have excellent organizational water makers & refrigeration.
skills, ability to write service Ideal for cruiser or independ-
reports and prepare warranty ent tech looking for the stabili-
claims, strong communication- ty of an established company
al skills, project management in Grenada CV to; E-mail
and cost accounting skills, and enzamarine@caribsurf.com
the ability to handle quality Tel (473) 439-2049
control issues. Mechanical
background wth marine Ir
experience preferred. Fax CV
(284) 494-6972 E-mail
tom partsandpower.com
TORTOLA ARAGORNS STUDIO
employees.WelderWorkshop
manager and shop assistant
required at our busy Art Studio
in Trellis Bay, BM.ldeal candi-
dates are a couple with arlsf icA
inclinaion living on their own Admiral 38 Catamaran. or
boatand looingfor shore side Sale Summer 2008. You can
employment in a USS econo- follow her adventure now at
my Still interested to hear from web mac corn/amouspo o-es2
a lone welder! Info contact
Arago Tel (284) 495-1849 E-
mail dreadeye@surfbvi.com
MARINE TECHNICIAN WANTED EC$1/US 400 per word -
IMMEDIATELY Respected include name, address and
Marine Engineering Co, in numbers in count. Line draw-
Grenada seeking all around ings/photos accompanying
experienced technician for classified are EC$20/US$8.


N.W. GRENADA Recently refur-
bished 3 bedroom house on -
1/4 acre land 300 yds from sea
overlooking Crayfish Bay iet YACHT CHARTER BUSINESS -
location, good anchoraage YACHT CHARIER BUSINESS-
lUSoci$20 n(473)442-189 BVI Turnkey, long term, prof-
itable Sail & SCUBA business
with broad Trade License, all
BEQUIA, Lower Bay, Bells operating permits and room
Point, House and Land to expand. This is a limited
Serious buyers only Sale by companythaallowsall assets
owner. Call (784) 456 4963 to be transferred by shares.
after 6pm. Sale includes a large 12 Pcax
E-mail lulleym@vincysurf.com multihull which averages 20 to
30-week long charters per
year with an appox tuover
of $400,000. In Dec 07 boat
PUERTO LA CRUZ, VENZ was surveyed at above aver-
INSURANCE SURVEYS, electric age condition structurally and
INal prNl SURVYd aecht cosmetically This is an excep-
cal problems and yacht tional opportunity to establish
deliveries. Tel Cris Robinson tonal opportunity to establish
(58) 416-3824187 E-mail yourself in the charter capital
crobinsontece.net.ve of the world. Asking price
crobinsonelcel.ne.e $60 www.charteryachts-
forsaleonline.com


NIMROD'S RUM SHOP, GRENADA
Eggs, bread, cheese, ice on
sale. Taxi service available,
propane tank fill-up,
personal laundry service.
happy Hour every day from 5-


SERVICE ADMINISTRATOR
needed for busy Marine
Industrial Service business in


A&C Yacht Brokers
Admiral Yacht Insurance
Angostura Ltd
Anjo Insurance
Art Fabrnk
B & C Fuel Dock
Barefoot Yacht Charters
Basil's Bar
Bay Island Yachts
Bequia Sailing Club
Bichik Services
Bogles Round House
Budget Marine
BVI Yacht Sales
Captain Gourmet
Caralbe Greement
Caralbe Yachts
Carenantilles
Carene Shop
CIRExpress
Cooper Marine
Corea's Food Store Musbque
Curagao Marine
Diesel Outfitters
Diginav


Martinique
UK
Trinidad
Antigua
Grenada
Petite Martinique
St Vincent
Mustique
Trinidad
Bequia
Martinique
Carriacou
Sint Maarten
Tortola
Union Island
Martinique
Guadeloupe
Martinique
Martinique
St Maarten
USA
Mustique
Curagao
St Maarten
Martinique


Dockwise Yacht Transport Sari Martinique


Dominica Marine Center
Dopco Travel
Doris Fresh Food
Douglas Yacht Services
Down Island Real Estate
Doyle Offshore Sails
Doyle's Guides
Echo Marine Jotun Special
Errol Flynn Marina
Falmouth Harbour Marina
Fernando's Hideaway
Flying Fish Ventures
Food Fair
Franglpani Hotel
Fred Marine
Grenada Marine
Grenadine Island Villa
Grenadines Sails
GRPro-Clean
Horizon Yacht Management
lolaire Enterprises
Island Dreams
Island Water World
Jack's Bar


Discovery Marlgot St Lucia 38 John Cawsey


Dominica
Grenada
Bequia
Martinique
Carriacou
Tortola
USA
Trinidad
Jamaica
Antigua
Bequia
Grenada
Grenada
Bequia
Guadeloupe
Grenada
Bequia
Bequia
Martinique
Tortola
UK
Grenada
Sint Maarten
Bequia


Johnson Hardware
Jones Maritime
KP Marine
Lagoon Marina Hotel
Le Phare Bleu
Le Ship
LIAT
Lulley's Tackle
Mac's Pizza
Maranne's Ice Cream
Bequia Marina
Mclntyre Bros Ltd
Mid Atlantic Yacht Services
Navimca
Northern Lights Generators
Peake Yacht Brokerage
Perkins Engines
Petit St Vincent
Ponton du Bakoua
Port Louis
Porthole Restaurant
44 Prickly Bay Marina
Renaissance Marina
Salty Dog Sports Bar
Santa Barbara Resorts


Bequla 36 Schip-O-Case


St Lucia 35
St Crolx 30
St Vincent 30
St Vincent 11
Grenada 18
Martinique 46
Caribbean 31
Bequla 37
Bequla 40
Bequla 52
Bequla 37
Grenada 30
Azores 47
Venezuela 33
Tortola 53
Trinidad 51
Tortola 13
PSV 36
Martinique 28
Grenada 12
Bequla 40
Grenada 29
Aruba 22
Bequla 42
Curagao 6
Guadeloupe 46


Sea and Sail
Sea Services
Sevenstar Yacht Transport
Shelter Bay Marina
Silver Diving
Simpson Bay Marina
Sopers Hole
Spice Island Marine
St Thomas Yacht Sales
Superwind
SVG Air
Tikal Arts & Crafts
Trade Winds Cruising
True Blue Bay
Turbulence Sails
Tyrrel Bay Yacht Haulout
Vemasca
Virgin Gorda Yacht Harbour
Volles Assistance
Volvo
Wallace & Co
Walliabou Anchorage
Xanadu Marine
Yacht Shipping Ltd


Guadeloupe
Martinique
UK
Panama
Carriacou
St Maarten
Tortola
Grenada
St Thomas
Germany
St Vincent
Grenada
Bequia
Grenada
Grenada
Carriacou
Margarita
Virgin Gorda
Martinique
Martinique
Bequia
St Vincent
Venezuela
UK



















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What's New

1 a a a W Febuar


ODYSSEY AIR FLOOR 270 INFLATABLE:

-in ,--%sbe t sh sE, y-r-w:4, jTIC'13:T 1 .jrd I,. v. II k
o:,~. Ftl- Wrr.E -'r: i r,, ,',: Ienflt hell

J''.l l. l- ,?b L jIf ,L I. h ii P .A L .H ull "r .

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-F v ~v ., I t.k j.-.i .i mr v j ,d1',tr j-. bt
Shpp:man, Learph E l its 3 ewhpyE 10
Pnce 1 20 00 (ind lscount)

SmA mAIeN WATER HEATERS IGMAR mlnode
COMPACT SERIES:

and oddonlo generafor wafer heatIg drtdoion porSL
Manufocfrurd n 316 tess smtel and based in a sjftrd
mpa p~ic shaft


Is


QK31218
QK31228
QK31418
QK31428


S32095 20b L 110IO
I 32095 2 OLbtr 220MV
S46695 40 ter 110 i
S466 95 40 LOe 220 oV


SIN 14 3"W 14 'PH
. 17' 14 3W 14 1'H
-26'L 14 3 w 14 1'H
- 2 '1 14 W x 14 H


MUNIDN SOLLARRATS:
tmlprpsew Mddar wetrae iyrfr ynant

.*.PTiTFIrP ,l r.'-irf.1r ,a T] i .'lTl 1i i ti.- ,-r.
.'j'... Ir.'jl! IIn,.L L,' n r.N r 'B l GB t 10050
SI B 5 woaft


What you need ,n
SAFETY EQUIPMENT: -59 Snaoh anet g
-& O$fshore 25mm AleArt/Loe 1- '-


12 Gauge High Reom once
Aleer Plus AaI S ignol Kit


Whats on Sale
SEAHAWK ISLANDS 77 PLUS ANTIFOUUNG
L." ,.fd .. nalJC,-.ity v :. ho
De.j d I*.' :0% di .:w
APX MAR r WIND GEN rmr. en'
,acr m -, r ."th Fr i.-
., l-i, Nr n-L -.Jri Irnr.ILb,

AIR-X MARINE WIND GENERATOR


A Much sound
*mpmwwd borf f
chaing" m
- MoAaienance free

Spw-l ptr
S 95Uog


DIVE BUDDY BC COMBO

BMLCD ne +
Me IMo rudoaor +
Odopus Ib regulator +
Consol ompad 2 gauge


$I549.0



I sdnKiU i apedfe ombINaLon
Di adSB Jsirmptifo pevnnanoe aondk hi

D's*acoqr viasdfo Febtcr, 2C8t jf lakriod1laa.


Irs btIo to know nw about Boaton Wfiw ony I Authorzed dealer of ElNiE
./A ly unrd bfe b ho r? V tsltad Wate wl 1 .r rl -
St. Thomas, U.SV.I. St. Maorlen, N.A St. Maarten, N.A St. Lucia, W.I. Grenada, W.. Grenada, W.I.
cht Haven Grande Cole Bay Bobby's Marina Rodney Bay Marina St. Georges Grenada Marine
Tel 3407140404 Tel. 599.544.5310 Tel. 599 543 7119 Tel 758452 1222 Tel: 4734352150 Tol 473443 1028
Foa 340 714 0405 Fax 599 544.3299 Fax 599 542 2675 Fao' 758 452.4333 Fax: 473 435 2152 Fax 473 443 1038
Prices may vary in St. Thomas, St. Lucia and Grenada as a result of customs charges and environmental levies.
I ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ 1 11 ll[-i.F -]d''''J l,.r"; ] ] 3r l 1.111'11111111 -,1- .1(1 '1111 11111-1,I ti1M n -I ] ~ rt-t %[ t4 ''tT I-Pl .,




Full Text

PAGE 1

FEBRUARY 2008 NO. 149TheCaribbeansMonthlyLookatSea&Shore © KOS/KOSPICTURES.COM Antiguas Superyacht Cup See story on page 13 On-line

PAGE 2

FEBRUARY 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 2

PAGE 3

FEBRUARY 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 3

PAGE 4

FEBRUARY 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 4 Small Islandƒƒbig launching!....................17Labor of LovePlastic classic renewed..........18Getting FreshA jungle river cruise..............20Bombs Away!Visiting Vieques.....................24Accidental CruiserWhy he loves Trinidad...........30Boat BuddiesCamaraderie, community......32 The Caribbeans Monthly Look at Sea & Shore FEBRUARY 2008 € NUMBER 149 DEPARTMENTS Business Briefs........................8 Eco-News...............................10 Regatta News........................14 Different Boats.......................16 Destinations...........................20 All Ashoreƒ...........................26 Meridian Passage.................32 Sailors Horoscope................34 Island Poets...........................34 Cruising Crossword...............35 Cartoons................................35 Cruising Kids Corner............36 Dollys Deep Secrets.............36 Book Reviews........................37 Cooking withCruisers............41 Readers Forum.....................44 Whats On My Mind..............49 Caribbean Marketplace......52 Classified Ads........................54 Advertisers Index.................54Caribbean Compass welcomes submissions of short articles, news items, photos and drawings. See Writers Guidelines at www.caribbeancompass.com. Send submissions to sally@caribbeancompass.com. We support free speech! But the content of advertisements, columns, articles and letters to the editor are the sole responsibility of the advertiser, writer or correspondent, and Compass Publishing Ltd. accepts no responsibility for any statements made therein. Letters and submissions may be edited for length and clarity. Compass Publishing Ltd. accepts no liability for delayed distribution or printing quality as these services are supplied by other companies. ©2008 Compass Publishing Ltd. All rights reserved. No reproduction, copy or transmission of this publication, except short excerpts for review purposes, may be made without written permission of Compass Publishing Ltd. Caribbean Compass is published monthly by Compass Publishing Ltd., P.O. Box 175 BQ, Bequia, St. Vincent and the Grenadines. Tel: (784) 457-3409, Fax: (784) 457-3410, compass@caribsurf.com www.caribbeancompass.comEditor...........................................Sally Erdle sally@caribbeancompass.com Assistant Editor...................Elaine Ollivierre jsprat@caribsurf.com Advertising & Distribution........Tom Hopman tom@caribbeancompass.com Art, Design & Production......Wilfred Dederer wide@caribbeancompass.com Accounting.................................Debra Davis debra@caribbeancompass.comCompass Agents by Island:Antigua: Ad Sales & Distribution Lucy Tulloch Tel (268) 774-6657 lucy@thelucy.com Barbados: Distribution Norman Faria Tel/Fax: (246) 426-0861 nfaria@caribsurf.com Curaçao: Distribution Cees de Jong Tel: (5999) 767-9042, Fax: (5999) 767-9003, stbarba@attglobal.net Dominica: Distribution Hubert J. Winston Dominica Marine Center, 24 Victoria Street, Roseau, Tel: (767) 448-2705, info@dominicamarinecenter.com Grenada/Carriacou/Petite Martinique: Ad Sales & Distribution Valreece Joseph Tel: (473) 536-7492, valreecejoseph@hotmail.com Guadeloupe: Ad Sales & Distribution Stéphane LegendreTel/Fax: + 590 (0) 5 90 84 53 10 Mob: + 590 (0) 6 90 49 45 90contact@transcaraibes.com Martinique: Ad Sales & Distribution Isabelle Prado Tel: (0596) 596 68 69 71, Mob: + 596 (0) 696 93 26 38 isabelle.prado@wanadoo.fr St. Lucia: Distribution Wayne Barthelmy Tel: (758) 584-1292, waynebarthelmy@hotmail.com St. Maarten/St. Barths/St. Kitts & Nevis: Distribution Eric Bendahan (599) 553 3850 Ad Sales Stéphane LegendreTel/Fax: + 590 (0) 5 90 84 53 10 Mob: + 590 (0) 6 90 49 45 90contact@transcaraibes.com St. Thomas/USVI: Distribution Bryan Lezama Tel: (340) 774 7931, blezama1@earthlink.net St. Vincent & the Grenadines: Ad Sales Debra Davis, Tel: (784) 457-3527, debra@caribbeancompass.com Tortola/BVI: Distribution Gladys Jones Tel: (284) 494-2830, Fax: (284) 494-1584 Trinidad: Ad Sales & Distribution Jack Dausend Tel: 868) 634-2622 Mob: (868) 620-0978 jackd@boatersenterprise.com Venezuela: Ad Sales & Distribution Patty Tomasik Tel: (58-281) 265-3844 Tel/Fax: (58-281) 265-2448, xanadumarine@cantv.net www.caribbeancompass.com ISSN 1605 1998 Were on theWeb!www.caribbeancompass.com Articles & Photos • Advertisers' Directory • Check It OutÉ Tell Your Friends! Cover: Aboard the 100-foot Swan Virago at Antiguas Superyacht Cup 2007 Some of the best racing ever!Ž CALENDAR FEBRUARY 2 4 Martinique Carnival Regatta. Club Nautique Le Neptune (CNN), info@clubnautiqueleneptune.com, www.clubnautiqueleneptune.com 3 6 Carnival Monday and Tuesday in most Dutch and French islands, Puerto Rico, Dominica, Carriacou, Trinidad & Tobago, Venezuela, and other places 7 Independence Day. Public holiday in Grenada 9 10 St. Croix International Regatta. St. Croix Yacht Club (SCYC), www.stcroixyc.com 13 17 Casa de Campo Regatta, Dominican Republic. www.casadecamporegatta.com 15 17 30th Annual Sweethearts of the Caribbean and 26th Annual Classic Yacht Regatta, Tortola. West End Yacht Club (WEYC), mvh@surfbvi.com, www.weyc.net 17 Sailors and Landlubbers Auction, Bequia. (784) 457-3047 18 Presidents Day. Public holiday in Puerto Rico and USVI 20 Lunar Eclipse visible throughout the Caribbean 21 FULL MOON 21 24 Grenada Classic Yacht Regatta. www.ClassicRegatta.com 22 Independence Day. Public holiday in St. Lucia. Yacht races 24 Bonaire International Fishing Tournament. www.infobonaire.com 27 Independence Day. Public holiday in Dominican Republic TBA Non-Stop Around Martinique Race. CNN TBA Semaine Nautique Schoelcher, Martinique. Schoelcher.Nautique@wanadoo.frMARCH1 Spanish Town Fishermens Jamboree and 12th Annual Wahoo Tournament, BVI 3 H. Lavitty Stoutes Birthday (celebrated). Public holiday in BVI 6 Budget Marine Commodores Cup, St. Maarten. www.heinekenregatta.com 6 9 28th St. Maarten Heineken Regatta. www.heinekenregatta.com 6 9 13th Annual Tobago Game Fishing Tournament. www.tgft.com 7 9 Blues & Rhythms Festival, St. Vincent. www.svgtourism.com 7 10 11th Annual Dark and Stormy Regatta, BVI. WEYC 8 International Womens Day 9 23 6th Annual St. John Blues Festival. www.stjohnbluesfestival.com 10 Commonwealth Day. Public holiday in some places 14 National Heroes Day. Public holiday in St. Vincent & the Grenadines 14 16 Culebra Heineken International Regatta and Culebra International Dinghy Regatta, Puerto Rico. www.culebrainternationalregatta.com 15 16 Le Trophée Gardel Race, Guadeloupe. www.Trophee-gardel.com 17 St. Patricks Day. Public holiday in Montserrat; festival in St. Patricks, Grenada 20 Holy Thursday. Public holiday in USVI 20 International Earth Day. Beach and dive clean-ups in many places 20 24 Bequia Easter Regatta. www.begos.com/easterregatta 20 24 Easterval, Union Island, St. Vincent Grenadines. melissaj@vincysurf.com 21 FULL MOON 21 Good Friday. Public holiday in many places 21 23 Grenada Round-the-Island Easter Race. www.aroundgrenada.com 22 Emancipation Day. Public holiday in Puerto Rico 24 25 Goat and Crab Races, Mt. Pleasant and Buccoo Village, Tobago 23 Easter Sunday 23 Nevis to St. Kitts Cross-Channel Swim 24 Easter Monday. Public holiday in many places 27 30 St. Barths Bucket Race. www.newportbucket.com/StBarthsIndex.htm 28 30 35th International Rolex Regatta, St. Thomas, USVI. www.rolexcupregatta.com 29 Apr 20 Transcaraibes Rally, Guadeloupe to Cuba. www.transcaraibes.com 30 Spiritual Baptist Liberation Day. Public holiday in Trinidad & Tobago 31 Apr 6 BVI Spring Regatta & Sailing Festival. www.bvispringregatta.org TBA Carlisle Bay Cruise Weekend, Antigua. Antigua Yacht Club (AYC), www.antiguayachtclub.com TBA Antigua Laser Open. AYC TBA Antigua Mega Yacht Challenge. AYC All information was correct to the best of our knowledge at the time this issue of Compass went to press „ but plans change, so please contact event organizers directly for confirmation. If you would like a nautical or tourism event listed FREE in our calendar, please send the name and date(s) of the event and the name and contact information of the organizing body to sally@caribbeancompass.com

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FEBRUARY 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 5[2600 words. PHOTOS in Photos for FebŽ folder for: New Fees for St. Maarten New bridge fees as amended by St. Maartens Island Council went into effect as of January 1st. The hike in fees is intended to provide Simpson Bay Lagoon Authority Corporation (SLAC) with increased revenue to make necessary investments in, for example, the Simpson Bay Bridge. The new departure fees, commonly called bridge fees, for cruise ships (megayachts) per one-week stay or part thereof range from 18 Netherlands Antilles florins (NAf.) for vessels with a length of nine meters or more but fewer than 14 meters, to NAf. 153 for vessels with a length of 36 meters or more. US$1.00=NAf 1.79. The new harbor fees that are due for passenger ships or yachts per one-week stay or part thereof will range from NAf. 36 for vessels with a length of 8 meters or more but fewer than 13 meters, to NAf. 324 for vessels with a length of 38 meters or more but fewer than 43 meters. Singlehander Scores a First A British sailor celebrated the New Year by becoming the first European to have both flown solo and sailed single-handed across the Atlantic. Tristan Gooley, 34, arrived at Marigot Bay, St. Lucia, on the afternoon of the 1st of January in a 32-foot yacht called Golden Eye after 26 days at sea alone. In May 2007 he flew from Goose Bay, Canada to Oxford, England in a single-engine Cessna Caravan, re-fueling in Greenland, Iceland and Scotland during the epic two-day flight. The only other person to have achieved both is the legendary American navigator, Steve Fossett, who is still missing after a flight in Nevada in September 2007. Tristan is using his achievements to raise awareness of prostate cancer. He says, Men are notoriously bad at discussing their health issues. If my efforts lead to one more person learning a little about the disease of prostate cancer, it will have been worthwhile. It has been a difficult and unusual challenge but that has been a large part of the attraction. I like the fact that more people have walked on the moon than tackled the Atlantic by air and sea alone.Ž Eight Bells Buddy Stockwell reports: On December 16, 2007, the cruising community of Bonaire lost a wonderful, talented and trusted friend. Edward Alton Ridley, known to all as ChileŽ, took his own life at the age of 58. Chile was born in Valentine, Texas, and had battled the disease of depression all of his life. He is survived by his wife, Linda Ridley of Marfa, Texas. The Ridleys began their cruising life aboard their Valiant 42, Natural Selection , by departing Galveston in 1998 and sailing to St. Petersburg, Florida, where their boat was part of the 1998 boat show there. Then, they cruised down the Eastern Caribbean chain, arriving in Bonaire five years later on Valentines Day of 2003. As avid scuba divers, both Chile and Linda fell in love with Bonaire and remained there as residents living aboard Natural Selection. Chile was manager of Capture Photo and also worked as a dive master. Most important, Chile was an indispensable volunteer for environmental organizations such as REEF, STINAPA and the Bonaire Sea Turtle Conservation Project. Chile completed 300 Level 5 surveys for REEF, collected hundreds of amazing underwater images on film, and completed almost 2,000 dives. Chiles True GritŽ Texas spirit, fine character, and exceptional skills combined to make him an unflagging champion of the environment like no other. „Continued on next page Info& Updates Singlehander Tristan Gooley with St. Lucian Member of Parliament Robert Lewis

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JANUARY 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 6 „Continued from previous page Chile was not just a gentleman but a gentle man, always willing to lend a hand and always the first to volunteer. He will be missed by all who knew him, including the beautiful sea creatures of Bonaire that he loved so well and fought so hard to protect. The family asks that in lieu of cards or flowers, donations should be made in his name to support the Sea Turtle Conservation Project by visiting https://www.supportbonaire.org. Yachtsmans Family Establishes Charity Trust The family of Irish yachtsman John Thompson, who died as the result of head injuries received in a fall aboard his yacht while sailing to the Caribbean during the 2007 Atlantic Rally for Cruisers, is setting up a charity organ-transplant network in Barbados in his memory. Thompson carried a card as a donor for all his major organs, but when he died in a Barbados hospital after being transferred there from his yacht by a cruise ship, his family discovered there were no facilities in the area for conducting transplants. Donations can be made by cheque payable to J.D. Thompson Donation Account, c/o Charles Stewart, Stewarts Solicitors, 3 Regent Street, Newtownards, BT23 4AB, UK. Hotspots While the majority of harbors remain trouble-free, cruisers are being warned to avoid certain anchorages until it has been confirmed that crimes against yachts in those areas have stopped. According to the January 11, 2008, edition of The Searchlight newspaper of St. Vincent, a spate of yacht robberies in Chateaubelair on that islands north leeward coast has caused the authorities to increase the number of law enforcement officers in the area. Between December 10th and 26th, 2007, five yachts anchored there were known to have been robbed by masked men armed with knives, cutlasses and, in some cases, guns. Police Commissioner Keith Miller told Searchlight that although plans were already in place to install a Rapid Response Unit in Chateaubelair, a three-member Criminal Investigation Department unit will also be stationed in the area and there will be increased water patrols by the coast guard. Investigations are ongoing. According to the Venezuelan maritime safety organization ONSA, on January 15th the French catamaran Ti Ve , with four people aboard, was boarded and robbed by five men carrying firearms at Robledal, Isla Margarita. One of the crew was seriously injured. Reports were made to local authorities and the French Consulate. Investigations are ongoing. For updated information on yacht-crime reports in the Caribbean visit www.safetyandsecuritynet.com. On-Line Maritime Discussion Forum Speaking of ONSA, the Venezuelan maritime safety organization has recently announced a new web platform for its Discussion Forums, at www.onsa.org.ve/comunidad/forum/ The moderator invites cruisers to register and participate on the websites English Speaking Section for Caribbean Cruisers and English-speaking users: www.onsa.org.ve/comunidad/forum/viewforum.php?f=16. There you can comment on and discuss any issues related to life at sea: maritime safety, tourism, incidents, etcetera. For more information contact info@onsa.org.ve. Leewards Updates Herbert Hirsch reports: The following observations were made during a cruise between December 12th, 2007 and January 5th, 2008, aboard a Lagoon 38 from Corail Caraib. CLEARANCE In Guadeloupe, the Capitainerie at Marina Bas du Fort faxed my clearance form to Point-à-Pitre for a nominal fee; within half an hour the fax was returned. I checked out to Dominica via Marie Galante. At Iles des Saintes, on the back side of the Mairie, I checked in and out at the same time, bound to Antigua via Deshaies; again the filled form was faxed to Point-à-Pitre and answered within half an hour. No charges. At Portsmouth, Dominica,I found that no visa was required for Austrian citizens (contrary to the tourism boards website). Checking in and out at the same time was uncomplicated, with a stay of possibly two weeks. As it was a holiday (Christmas Day), I paid an overtime fee of US$40. The entire procedure took ten minutes. Note: Clearance from last port of call is absolutely required. (For a tour guide in Dominica we had Martin Carriere, alias Providence. He did really a great job: punctual, very friendly and extraordinarily competent.) I arrived at Customs in English Harbour, Antigua, at 3:00PM. After being questioned about why I had eight crewŽ and no passengersŽ, I was given forms to take back to the boat for each crewmember to fill in and instructed to proceed to Immigration the next day at 10:00AM. Never before in my experience have all the details of a yacht-clearance form been checked more precisely or more times as they were at Immigration. I arrived promptly at 10:00AMand the procedure ended at 11:50AM. Note: The Immigration form has six copies, so you must write with a hard hand to avoid filling in the copies a second time. Although I planned to leave early in the morning, it was not possible to check in and out at the same time. I was told to come back at 3:00PMfor the check out, which took until 4:00PM. It was a pity to waste the better part of a day on clearance procedures. „Continued on next page CHRIS DOYLEThe waters around Guadeloupe are spread with a lot of fishing gear; its best to have a good lookout

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FEBRUARY 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 7 New marine center presents the latest Dutch innovation in boat handling equipment. Hauling capacity 45 tons and Catamarans up to 33ft beam. Safe dry storage with 24 hours security Long-term storage. AWLGRIP® indoor spray painting and many other services. We are located in the safe harbor of Willemstad. Curaçao Marine Email: curacaomarine@interneeds.net Phone: +(599 9) 465 8936 Fax: 465 8941 www.curacaomarine.com „Continued from previous page FISHING GEAR The coasts around Guadeloupe and the surrounding islands are spread with a lot of fishing lines and buoys „ found singly and in pairs „ up to six miles offshore. They are not marked with lights or poles, so are invisible at night or in bad weather. Some buoys are as small as cricket balls. Many of these hazards can be found around Marie Galante and outside Deshaies on Guadeloupes west coast. To be on the safe side, its best to have a good lookout throughout the whole cruising area. RIVIERE SALEE Passing from north to south: after the rivers entrance, one of the green buoys is missing and the other is adrift on Ilet Colas (hazardous in the night). Of the three mooring buoys at the Bridge LAlliance, one is missing, the second is only three metres from the mangroves, and the third one, which we used, was okay. The further buoys after the bridge were, in order: red okay, red missing (instead, there was an unlit yellow plastic buoy the size of a basketball), red okay, red unlit, green unlit, green okay. At Pont de La Gabarre, red okay, green okay! Of the four mooring buoys listed in Doyles Guide, we found only one okay; the second was half sunk, and the further two were visible but adrift in the mangroves. Sailors and Landlubbers Auction, Bequia Bequias annual Sailors and Landlubbers Auction to benefit the Sunshine School for Children with Special Needs will be held on Sunday, February 17th, at LAuberge des Grenadines on the shore of Admiralty Bay. A preview begins at 1:00PM, and the Auction starts at 2:00. It all begun in 1990 when Norwegian sailors Mariann and Peter decided to give backŽ to their favourite island, and held a Marine Gear Auction aboard their doubleended ketch Fredag . Cruisers brought items they wanted to sell and put a price on them. Any amount over this price went to the Sunshine School. Mariann says, It struck me how many people just gave things and did not want to receive any money at all. Here was a chance to really make money for the school!Ž In subsequent years, more and more items have been donated that have nothing to do with the sea. Recently, in between the anchors, winches and deck prisms, appear paintings by well-known local artists, wall hangings, lawn furniture and more, and landlubbers are happy to join in. Refreshments are also on sale. Come and join the fun, but keep the good cause in mind and bid as high as your purse can manage! In 2007 the result was EC$22,937 „ lets make it bigger this year! Even if you are not going to be in Bequia on February 17th, look around your boat or home at all that stuff which is just too good to toss, and pass it on. Drop off donated items before February 16th at the Sunshine School between 9:00AMand 3:00PMweekdays. The jumble sale that used to coincide with the Auction will be held separately this year, on Sunday, March 2nd, at 1:00PMunder the Almond Tree in Port Elizabeth. Preceding the jumble sale will be a Fun Walk sponsored by The Gym at Aqua, also to raise funds for the Sunshine School. Registration is EC$20 per person; top fund-raisers will receive gym memberships of a week or more! The walk starts at 10:00AMunder the Almond Tree, goes around the Mount Pleasant loop and returns to the starting point. Back under the Almond Tree, cool down and partake in the sale of refreshments and baked goods, books, students crafts, Sunshine School merchandise AND the Annual Jumble Sale. For information on the Fun Walk contact Lisa at (784) 458-3761 or 431-6332 For information on the Auction and Jumble Sale contact Mariann Why Knot?Ž VHF 08; phone (784) 457-3047, cell 432-3232; skype: whyknotbequia. For information about the Sunshine School visit www.bequiasunshineschool.org. Total Lunar Eclipse this Month Jeannie Kuich reports: All of the Caribbean will be treated to a Total Eclipse of the Moon on the evening of February 20th. The Moon will be high and accompanying it will be pearly Saturn and the star Regulus in Leo. This double event will be the only one of its kind occurring within the next millennium. Binoculars will enhance the view but all you really need is your eyes, maybe a sweet young thing beside you to hold your hand (dont you wish!) and a big chocolate chip Moon cookie. In any case, stupendous eclipses of the Moon are always enhanced by having someone with you. Eclipse times are: First contact of Moon with Earths umbra:9:43PMTotal eclipse begins:11:01PMMiddle of eclipse:11:26PMTotal eclipse ends:11:52PMLast contact of Moon with Earths umbra:1:09AMUnless atmospheric effects (such as those created by dust from volcanic eruptions at Montserrat) influence the Moons disk, it should appear fairly bright, especially right around the beginning and end of totality. The lower part of the Moon will likely appear brightest with a ruddy or coppery hue, whereas the upper half should look more gray or chocolate color. This is the only total lunar eclipse we may see in the Caribbean this year, so enjoy this glorious event! CCEF Wants Your Stuff! Are you thinking that you should raise your boats waterline? Too much stuff in your lockers or on deck? Think about this: any spare parts you dont need, any clean used clothing, any household goods „ leave them at the Carriacou Yacht Club for the annual charity auction in August, which benefits the Carriacou Childrens Education Fund. AND, think about this: come join us for the fun and the fundraising! For more information contact boatmillie@aol.com. Errata WHERES THAT AGAIN? Perceptive readers will have noticed that the photo of docked ARC yachts on page 22 of last months Compass was taken in Las Palmas, Canary Islands, before the start of ARC 2006, not in Rodney Bay, St. Lucia, after its finish „ same fleet, different place! LETS SEE, 30 DAYS HATH... Perceptive readers will also have noticed that in the tables for the Meridian Passage of the Moon in last months Compass , we got carried away and extended leap year by giving February 31 days. Woops! Wheres Sandi? Compass contributor Sandi Pomeroy, please contact Sally at sally@caribbeancompass.com. Welcome Aboard! In this issue of Compass we welcome aboard new advertiser Port Louis Marina of Grenada, page 12; and all the new faces in our Caribbean Marketplace ads on pages 52 and 53. Good to have you with us!

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FEBRUARY 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 8 Horizon Yacht Management . . . a dedicated private management serviceBVI Antigua Grenada St. Martin 284 494 8787 268 562 4725 473 439 1000 599 544 3329 info@horizonyachtcharters.com info@antiguahorizon.com horizonyachts@spiceisle.com horizonsxm@gmail.comAuthorized dealers Secure Moorings & Dockage Routine Maintenance Technical Installations New and Used Yacht Brokerage Full Service Marinas Professional DeliveryFour great locations, one great management service www.horizonyachtmanagement.com www.horizon-yacht-sales.com HorizonYacht Management BAVARIA YACHTS BUSINESS BRIEFSGrenada: A New Marina for the New Year Developer Peter de Savary and his team delivered the Port Louis Marina and Creole Village open and operational for the Christmas and New Year holidays in Grenada. The Port Louis Marina, which is already accepting some of the worlds largest yachts and boats, was officially opened on January 4th. The Opening Ceremony came just days after the news of a major joint venture arrangement between the de Savary Group and the largest marina developer in the world, Camper & Nicholsons. In the new partnership, Camper & Nicholsons have pledged to invest US$ 24 million to market and develop the Port Louis marina into one of the best and most exclusive in the world. The opening was attended by His Excellency Governor General Sir Daniel Williams; Minister of Tourism the Hon. Claris Modeste Curwen; Minister of Works, the Hon. Brenda Hood; Developer, Peter De Savary; and Technical Director of Camper Nicholsons, Bill Green. Minister of Tourism Curwen told the gathering that the project would bring great benefits to Grenada. The Port Louis Development and the new joint venture with Camper & Nicholsons have the full backing of the Government and people of Grenada. Government knows that this project will not just benefit the many visitors who will come here but will also bring thousands of good jobs to Grenadians.Ž De Savary described the joint venture as a huge benefit for Grenada. Port Louis Marina and Grenada will now be marketed not only by us, but Camper & Nicholsons will also put their world-class marketing machine behind this project. In addition, the new venture will mean that the marina project will now be completed even faster, as we will now concentrate on the development of the residential, hotel and commercial aspect while Camper & Nicholsons focus on the marina.Ž Both the marina wall and 100-metre trestle dock are open with a capacity of up to 50 vessels „ including 14 superyachts „ all with full power, water and necessary infrastructure. The Maltese Falcon , the worlds largest private sailing yacht at 289 feet, and the mega-motoryacht Reverie , at 230 feet, were amongst the first yachts to berth at Port Louis, in December 2007. Ultimately the marina will have berths for up to 300 vessels. The Victory Bar and village with its dutyfree shops are also open ready to welcome the marinas first guests and the general public. For more information see ad on page 12. Benedettos to Open at Le Phare Bleu From next month, sailors and landlubbers alike will be able to enjoy the flavours of Italy at BenedettosŽ at Le Phare Bleu in Grenada. The new restaurant, lounge and bar, located alongside the beach and the swimming pool, will be open seven days a week for breakfast, lunch and dinner, with a happy hour between 5:00 and 6:00PM. There will also be regular live music events and parties. Benedetto La Fiura, an Italian chef with over 30 years experience, has joined Le Phare Bleu team, and will be overseeing an Italian, casual dining experience at the new venue. Those familiar with Le Phare Bleu Marina will no doubt be aware of the already popular fine-dining restaurant onboard the historic lighthouse ship. With the opening of Benedettos, Le Phare Bleu will be ready to welcome customers looking to enjoy snacks and light meals in a laid-back atmosphere, surrounded by the tranquillity of beautiful Petit Calivigny Bay. Le Phare Bleu is also pleased to announce the completion of its full-service marina, with the availability of a fuel dock and a Customs office on site from early March. Also up and running in March will be the laundry service, car rental and De Big Bamboo watersports boutique. For more information see ad on page 18. Clipper Round-the-World Race to Visit Port Antonio They first came to Port Antonio, Jamaica in 2006 as an afterthought. Now after their first experience at what is arguably the Caribbeans most beautiful and wellequipped yachting facility, it has been announced the competitors in the 2007-2008 Clipper Round the World Race will once again be stopping at Port Antonio for several days R&R after a long leg from Panama. After leaving Port Antonio in late May, the ten internationally-sponsored 68-foot yachts will head for New York. Included in the fleet is a Jamaican entry, skippered by Simon Bradley of Errol Flynn Marina and Shipyard. „Continued on next page In addition to the restaurant aboard its signature lightship, Le Phare Bleu Marina will soon offer an Italian dining spot ashore Its official! The opening ceremony for Grenadas newest marina was held on January 4th

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FEBRUARY 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 9 „Continued from previous page The yacht is appropriately emblazoned with the Jamaica tourism slogan: Once You Go, You Know.Ž If the visiting crews are looking for a real taste of Jamaica when they make landfall, then they need look no further than NormasŽ at the Errol Flynn Marina. There they can sample Normas red pea soup, along with her oven front whole-wheat garlic bread garnished with her secret spread, and perhaps followed by grilled bangers and sautéed potatoes. That should really set them up for the next leg! For more details of the race visit www.clipperroundtheworld.com. For more information on the marina see ad on page 39. New Grenadines Airways Service between St. Vincent and St. Lucia As of Sunday February 10th, Grenadine Airways will be operating a Sunday service between St. Vincent & the Grenadines and St. Lucia (Hewanorra). The service is designed to connect with the international flights (Virgin Atlantic, British Airways, Air Canada, West Jet, US Airways, Air Jamaica, Delta and American) arriving and departing from Hewanorra, St. Lucia. If demand is good, then additional days may be added. Cost will be US$150 one way plus US$25 fuel surcharge and US$15 per person head tax. For more information contact Grenadines Airways: tel (246) 418-1654/5, e-mail info@grenadineairway.com. Dutyand VAT-Free Chandlery for Dominica? The Dominica Marine Center (DMC) is working with the Government of Dominica to implement a dutyfree and VAT-free chandlery on the island. Currently, DMC will order duty-free and VAT-free items for visiting yachts and other vessels through their international partners, but the management is looking for full dutyand VAT-free status for visiting vessels to be available throughout their store in Dominica. Also, in response to increased demand, the Dominica Marine Center is expanding with a second store and other marine services in the islands northern port city of Portsmouth. Before the end of March, you should be able to get your marine items „ including electronic goods, mechanical services, boat repairs, Mercury Marine engines, Yanmar engine and parts and Doyle sailmaker services „ all in one stop. The Dominica Marine Center has also expanded its services to include sport fishing, which has become an increasingly popular attraction on the island. For more information see ad on page 47. See My Sea „ Boat-Swapping for Boatowners Not all boatowners are retired and free to cruise wherever they want, far from their home port. Up until now, chartering a boat in those distant places has been the only realistic option for those who have to keep their boat close to home. SeeMySea is a new venture, operating much like the very successful and popular house-swapping agencies. Their goal is to make it possible for boatowners to discover new sailing destinations as well as share with others their local knowledge and experience in an atmosphere of open-minded and free exchange. Once joined up (the cost is around US$100 per year, but the first 300 applicants are free!), boatowners will have access to all the boat-exchange offers and the various services of the site, for the next 12 months. Introducing new members will qualify you for a discount on your next annual subscription. For more information visit www.seemysea.com or email contact@seemysea.com. Left: Dominica Marine Center is branching out to the northern town of Portsmouth Below: Interested in boat-swapping? Picture yourself here, or in the Baltic, Great Lakes, Medƒ

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FEBRUARY 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 10 CARIBBEANECO-NEWSCoral Concerns Mountƒ As the cartoon character Pogo famously said, We have met the enemy and he is us.Ž A study published last month in the journal Nature has singled out human activity, especially coastal development and agriculture, as the main culprit in the continuing degradation of coral reefs, even more so than warming sea waters and acidification linked to global warming. The study focuses on the Caribbean, where the decline of reefs is endangering species of wildlife as well as tourism and fishing that are vital for the local economy, says lead author Camilo Mora of Dalhousie University in Halifax, Canada. The continuing degradation of coral reefs may be soon beyond repair if threats are not identified and rapidly controlled,Ž he said. Mora and University of Miami marine biologist Robert Ginsburg compared several large-scale databases that had never before been systematically crossreferenced. Focusing on corals, fishes and seaweed in 322 sites across 13 countries in the Caribbean, the study matched environmental and ecological data against patterns of human population density, coastal development and agricultural land use. Also included were data on hurricanes, biodiversity, fish populations and coral disease. The statistics showed clearly that the number of people is the main driver of the mortality of corals. But different kinds of human activity resulted in different impacts, the study revealed. Higher population density in coastal areas produces more sewage and depletes fish stocks, both of which are directly responsible for coral mortality. Chemical discharges from agricultural land drives an increase in macroalgae (seaweed), which is indirectly linked to coral loss. Warmer sea surfaces are also contributing to coral decline, but hurricanes are not, said the study. The study also concluded that while Marine Protected Areas help restore fish populations, they do nothing to protect coral. A fifth of the worlds marine reefs have already been destroyed and half are threatened because of human impact, whether directly or as a consequence of rising temperatures driven by climate change, according to the World Conservation Union. ƒ While New Corals are Discovered Two new species of soft corals were discovered during an October 2007 expedition to Saba Bank, Netherlands Antilles, the largest atoll in the Caribbean. A team that included researchers from the University of Miami Rosenstiel School of Marine and Atmospheric Sciences Biology and Fisheries Division, Texas A&M University at Corpus Christi, and the Universidad de los Andes in Colombia collected 40 species of soft corals and nearly a hundred different species of crustaceans in just ten days of diving. One of the likely new species was found in deep water (70 metres), and the other was found to be common in shallow water (20 metres). Since the gorgonians of the Caribbean are a well-known group of corals with only a limited number of species, the discovery of a new species in the shallowest parts of the Bank was unexpected. The scientists have concluded that it belongs to the genus Pterogorgia , in which so far only three species are known. The expedition is part of an ongoing effort by the Department of the Environment of the Netherlands Antilles to develop a sound management plan for the Bank and legislation to support it. The goal is to have the Saba Bank designated as a Particularly Sensitive Sea Area (PSSA), which will help to regulate shipping over the parts of the Bank that lie outside the territorial waters of Saba, but are still located within the Exclusive Economic Zone of the Netherlands Antilles. Blue Award for St. Lucias Solar Ferry Discovery at Marigot Bay on St. Lucias west coast has been awarded the Blue Award from US-based Islands magazine in recognition for environmental achievements. The Blue List, published in the December 2007 issue of Islands , recognizes 100 leaders in responsible tourism who, according to the magazine, ensure that islands remain environmentally and culturally sound for future generations.Ž Discoverys locally designed and built solar-powered ferry, the Sunshine Express , was number 63 on the list. The ferry was launched in July 2007 to transport guests of the marina resort to the bars and restaurants dotted around Marigot Bay „ all with zero emissions. Resort owner Judith Verity said, One resource the Caribbean has in abundance is solar power and solar power technology is becoming rapidly more efficient. We hope that the Sunshine Express will be the first of many solar powered boats not just in St. Lucia but throughout the Caribbean.Ž Turtle Conservationist Honored Four Caribbean nationals have been named 2008 winners of the Anthony N. Sabga Caribbean Awards for Excellence (ANSCAFE) for their work in fields ranging from the arts to science, technology and the environment. Among them is Annette Arjoon of Guyana, the founding secretary and project coordinator of the Guyana Marine Turtle Conservation Society. She has been instrumental in protecting Shell Beach, a 100-mile ecosystem in the northwest coastal region of Guyana, where four species of marine turtles nest. All sea turtle species in the Caribbean are considered endangered. ANSCAFE laureates receive a gold medal, a citation and TT$500,000 (US$80,000). The 2008 laureates will be given their prizes in a gala ceremony in Trinidad on April 12th. Heineken Regatta Supports Nature Groups The Nature Foundation of Sint Maarten and the St. Martin Réserve Naturelle each received a donation from Heineken St. Maarten recently, to put towards conservation programmes on both the French and Dutch sides of the island. The funds were raised through the sale of white serious clean funŽ bracelets during the St. Maarten Heineken Regatta 2007. The new bracelets for the 2008 St. Maarten Heineken Regatta will be on sale soon, and the 2007 bracelets are still available from the Nature Foundation offices and Heineken St. Maarten. For more information on conservation projects on St. Maarten contact the Nature Foundation at info@naturefoundationsxm.org or Réserve Naturelle at reservenaturelle@domaccess.com. Statias National Marine Park The St. Eustatius Marine Park celebrated its tenth anniversary in December 2007, with the official opening of the National Park Visitor Centre. The highlight of this event was when Paul Hoetjes of the Department of Environment and Nature of the Netherlands Antilles announced that the St. Eustatius Marine Park had been designated a National Park. The Park Manager, Nicole Esteban, gave an insight into the diverse habitats that attract divers from around the world, and described the development of the Marine Park over the past ten years, acknowledging the important work of the Dutch Caribbean Nature Alliance for their work to provide long-term financial security through establishment of a conservation trust fund. The dive centres were represented by Rinda Hees from Dive Statia who explained some of the direct benefits for the dive industry, Buoys were a great help in both saving the coral and finding the dive sites, training new staff is now much quickerƒ fish life has flourished with larger fish, more pelagics and also the rarer species.Ž Relaxed evening seminars were held at different restaurants during early December to inform the local community and visitors about various aspects of the Marine Park. The guest speaker was Kalli de Meyer, Executive Director and former Manager of Bonaire National Marine Park, who discussed the Marine Parks of the Dutch Caribbean with a focus on the development of Statia National Marine Park. „Continued on next page Left to right: Kim van Loo (Shipwreck Shops), Heather Tackling (Heineken Regatta), Marisa Brandy (Nature Foundation), and John Leone and Mandy Renkens (Heineken St. Maarten)

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FEBRUARY 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 11 YACHT SHIPPING LTDTel: +44 (0)23 8022 3671 Fax: +44 (0)23 8033 0880/1UK Agents forSEVENSTAR YACHT TRANSPORT B.V.E-mail: info@ysl.wainwrightgroup.com www.yachtshipping.comRegular sailings to and from the Mediterranean, USA and Caribbean Specialist water to water service „Continued from previous page Other seminars included a very well attended presentation about the conservation of turtles around Statia by Sea Turtle Programme Coordinator, Arturo Herrera, and an overview of the benefits of the Marine Park in terms of nature and the economy by Nicole Esteban. Still Keeping Bequia Clean Alexandra Paolino reports: On December 1st, 2007, a group of friends in the Bequia community pursued their monthly clean-up efforts, this time along the Paget Farm waterfront. Joining forces with the Paget Farm Government Primary School students and teachers, the group ensured that this was only an initial attempt to clean up the area. The terrain was very difficult to tackle, consisting of numerous little rocky bays where fishing boats are pulled ashore and garbage accumulation is dense. The group included approximately 35 children and ten adults. They filled 55 black garbage bags, mainly with plastic „ engine-oil bottles, beverage bottles, bags, wrappers, cups and forks „ plus aluminum packets and cans, old clothes and shoes, and some rubber items. The school children were enthusiastic about keeping their country clean. The main aim of the Paget Farm waterfront clean-up effort is to raise community awareness of the importance of keeping our natural environment clean, not only to beautify our surroundings but also to minimize environmental hazards. The group is grateful for support and donations. Many thanks to Bequia Venture, the Bequia Tourism Association, Karib Cable, and Hutchinson Construction Company. Whither Cubas Marine Environment? A December 25th, 2007, article by Cornelia Dean in The New York Times notes that through accidents of geography and historyŽ, Cuba retains one of the most undamaged natural environments in the Caribbean. But what will become of it after Fidel Castro and his associates leave power and, as is widely anticipated, the United States government relaxes or ends its trade embargo? Dean writes: [Cuba now] has an abundance of landscapes that elsewhere in the region have been ripped up, paved over, poisoned or otherwise destroyed in the decades since the Cuban revolution, when development has been most intense. Once the embargo ends, the island could face a flood of investors from the United States and elsewhere, eager to exploit those landscapes.Ž Conservationists, environmental lawyers and other experts, from Cuba and elsewhere, met recently in Cancún, Mexico, to discuss the islands resources and how to continue to protect them. Cuba has done what we should have done „ identify your hot spots of biodiversity and set them aside,Ž said Oliver Houck, a professor of environmental law at Tulane University Law School (US) who attended the conference. Cubas relatively large underwater coastal shelves are crucial for numerous marine species. Like corals elsewhere, those in Cuba are suffering as global warming raises ocean temperatures and acidity levels. But they have largely escaped damage from pollution, boat traffic and destructive fishing practices. Diving in them is like going back in time 50 years,Ž said David Guggenheim, a conference organizer. In a report last year, the World Wildlife Fund said that in dramatic contrastŽ to its island neighbors, Cubas beaches, mangroves, reefs, seagrass beds and other habitats were relatively well preserved. Their biggest threat, the report said, was the prospect of sudden and massive growth in mass tourism when the US embargo lifts.Ž

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FEBRUARY 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 12 Prominent Caribbean racing sailor and cancer warrior Andrew Burke aims to draw attention this month to the need for support for cancer patients by sailing solo AND one-handed around his home island of Barbados. Barbados is 21 miles long and 14 miles wide. After a long period of suffering from pain in his left hand, Andrew was diagnosed with cancer in 2003. After an initial operation and extended periods of radiation treatment and chemotherapy, Andrews entire left arm and shoulder blade were removed in 2005. Despite having only one arm, Andrew continued to campaign the yachts Bruggadung I and II to victories in highly competitive regional regattas such as the St. Maarten Heineken Regatta, Angostura Tobago Race Week and the Mount Gay-Boatyard Regatta in Barbados. [ See Bajan Racer Burke is Bringing It All Back HomeŽ, Caribbean Compass , December 2007. ] Recently Andrew has been diagnosed with a cancerous growth in his amazingly courageous heart. Treatment of this is ongoing. So his latest sailing challenge comes straight from his heart. The Barbados Cancer Society aims to re-appoint an Education Officer and a Welfare Officer. They will address the early detection and post-diagnostic needs of cancer patients , thereby reducing the islands death rate from cancer. Andrews goal is to raise a minimum of Bd$150,000 in order to make this cancer program effective for the people of Barbados. All sponsors will be recognized appropriately. Donations should be written directly to: The Barbados Cancer Society, Henrys Lane, Collymore Rock, St. Michael, Barbados, and identified with Andrews name. For more information phone (246) 436-8888. Andrew plans to make his solo, single-handed circumnavigation of Barbados on February 10th. Sail from the HeartAndrew Burkes Single-Handed, One-Armed Round Barbados Sail CRUISING GUIDE PUBLICATIONS

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FEBRUARY 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 13 Palma de Mallorca in the Mediterranean and Antigua in the Caribbean: two of the most important superyacht destinations in the world „ with some of the most enviable sailing conditions. With the second Superyacht Cup in the Caribbean imminent, Antiguas Minister for Tourism, The Right Honourable Harold Lovell, had talks with Juan Gual, President of the Chamber of Commerce for Mallorca, at the 2007 Monaco Yacht Show to discuss the developing trade links specializing in the marine industry. And from December 12th to 15th, 2007, Antiguas second Superyacht Cup, sponsored by Camper & Nicholsons and SLAM, was held amidst fantastic sailing conditions with six entries ranging from 29 to 44 metres competing in three days of pursuit racing off English Harbour. Race One saw Tenacious , the Ted Hooddesigned 35-metre sloop, start first in a stiff breeze, followed by Patient Falcon , the Nelson Marek-designed 30-metre, then by Yanneke Too , a 36-metre Bill Dixon design. With a big sea running and more than 25 knots of wind, the sailing was exciting. Easing sheets onto a broader reach down to Curtain Bluff, Yanneke Too, Timoneer and Sojana all displayed their downwind sails. This was followed by a dramatic beat into a black squall with gusts of up to 45 knots, off Turtle Bay. Yanneke Too crossed the finish line first, winning by 2 minutes and 11 seconds. Second was Patient Falcon , and third Sojana , finishing with less than 6 minutes between them! Race Two was blessed with stunning sailing conditions off the Pillars of Hercules at the entrance to English Harbour. The 44metre Dubois-designed ketch Timoneer overtook Yanneke Too on the first leg, keeping her full main and mizzen staysail in the gusty trades, and then overtook the smaller Patient Falcon on the reach down to Curtain Bluff. Kenny Coombs, founder of the Antigua Classic Yacht Regatta, who was sailing on the 100-foot Swan Virago told me that it was some of the best ocean racing he had ever enjoyed. Wild wind shifts of 20 degrees on the beat back up the coast tested the helmsmen, and those with local knowledge (and a forgiving draft!) could hug the coast to take the lifts and tack out of the heavy seas. Finally, Timoneer won the second race. Race Three brought very close sailing with all the yachts finishing within 10 minutes. Again, exhilarating weather conditions with 25 to 30 knots of breeze and a big sea tested these impressive vessels with Yanneke Too and Sojana sailing through the fleet and finally overtaking Timoneer minutes before the finish. At Curtain Bluff, the 38-metre Farr-designed Sojana tacked around the mark just after Virago , before hardening up to beat up the coast. Sojana was forced to tack off for clean air and soon started to make her gains on the whole fleet farther off the coast. The larger, heavier ketches Timoneer and Yanneke Too headed out to sea on long tacks, while Sojana sailed up the middle of the course, benefiting from any wind shifts and wind speed variations. Timoneer approached the line from way out to sea but did not lay the pin end of the line, giving Sojana the opportunity to overtake her and storm through the finish line. By the triple point ratingŽ for the last race, Sojana won The Superyacht Cup Antigua 2007 by just 0.3 points. Captain Marc Fitzgerald of Sojana , who had made it to the start only by gybing on the finish line of the Rolex Transatlantic Challenge and heading straight to Antigua, told me that he thought Antigua is perfect for this kind of event, both with outstanding conditions and tradewinds, as well as the hospitality ashore and rum on the table!Ž For more information visit www.thesuperyachtcup.com. ANTIGUAS SUPERYACHT CUP 2007 Racing at its Best! for the Big Boatsby Lucy Tulloch Virago heading for the start. The Superyacht Cup joins Sailing Week and the Classic Yacht Regatta as a stellar Antiguan event

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Regatta NewsToo Much Fun at SLYC Fun Day! On December 16th, 2007, the St. Lucia Yacht Club (SLYC) hosted its inaugural sailing Fun Day, inviting local and Atlantic Rally for Cruisers (ARC) sailors to the Laser and Optimist Dinghies event. An overwhelming 45 Laser sailors and 12 Opti sailors were geared for racing. This response, however, meant that not only did courses have to be shortened, but due to a limited number of boats, only 30 Laser sailors were able to take to the waters. The second race for the Optis was canceled due to deteriorating weather, as the gusty winds became challenging for the young sailors. Despite the long wait to sail a race or two, all sailors enjoyed the day and many have been seen since, proudly wearing their free SLYC Fun Day T-shirts. The day was wrapped up with the prizegiving, and the following placed for prizes: Mark Spurway, Dario Daniel, Marcus Sweeney, Edgar Roe, Andreas Melia, Nick Casey, Benn Atkinson, Christopher Uppheim, Sid Payne and Leo Sogden. This day was such a success that the SLYC intends to make it an annual event (they may need to find some more Lasers!). Of course, a day like this makes or breaks on the volunteer help, so thanks go to: Danielle, who did an excellent job of organizing the event; Gary and Faye for providing the committee boat Hullabaloo ; Angela at the registration desk; Ted and Peter on the start and finish lines, and many other yacht club volunteers including Uli, Lily, Teresa, Fred and Barbara. Many thanks to the main sponsors: Ferrands Dairy, Marintek, Johnsons Hardware, Peter & Co., Spinnakers, Cats, Island Water World and Chris Doyle Publications, who allowed everyone to get on with the sailing, and enjoy a great day on land and sea. SR-Max Upset at Guardians Southern Caribbean Regatta This regatta, held from December 27th through 30th, 2007 in Trinidad, has built up a tradition of great dinghy racing for the Southern Caribbean, pulling sailors of all ages and from several Caribbean nations into the boats. Although only three types of boats were raced (Optimist, Laser and SR-Max), the sailors raced the following classes: Opti Under 12, Opti Over 12, Laser 4.7, Laser Radial, Laser Standard and the locally designed and built SR-Max. Winds are notoriously light in and around Trinidad, so sailors were happy that it was only on the final day that they had to sail past Five Islands in order to find a breeze. By the end of that morning the wind came in strong, allowing all classes to complete the last two races and thus be allowed a drop from the nine races sailed. In the Opti Under 12 class, Derek Poon Tip (TTSA) and Russell Franklin (Vessigny) placed respectively first and second again this year. Third place went to Kelly-Ann Arrindell (TTSA) who managed to keep both Abigail Affoo and Myles Kaufmann just behind her in the last day of racing (placing fourthand eighth). The dropped race came in handy for Nicholas Knox (TTSA), who happily dropped his 11th place (a victim of the dreaded capsize!), just beating his club-mate Wesley Scott (TTSA) and taking home first place in the Opti Over 12 class. In the Laser 4.7 and Laser Standard classes, the results stayed more or less the same from one day of racing to the next. However, in the Laser Radial class, the Leighton brothers had to give up first place to Andrew Lewis, who clinched his position with a first and second on the last day of races, leaving brothers Stuart and James Leighton with respectively second and third place. Perseverance is definitely a must for any good sailor, so no doubt next year will see these enthusiastic brothers making a bid for first one more time. The biggest surprise of the regatta this year was in the SR-Max class. Paul Amon, the champion of this class for the last three years in a row, was finally dethroned by Peter Baillie and his crew. No doubt Peter and his crew will enjoy the glory of this position for the next year, and prepare to defend their title in December 2008. The best female sailor for the regatta was Abigail Affoo, and the best male sailor was Christopher Sposato of Barbados. Medical Issue Raised at Nelsons Pursuit Race, Antigua John Burnie reports: Rumor has it that the fifth edition of this New Years Eve race, held out of Antigua Yacht Club (AYC), was absolutely splendidŽ. Thanks go out to Tommy Patterson and the AYC for all their organizational skills and giving of their time. This pursuit race was not for the faint of heart, as winds with gusts of more than 35 knots passed through, creating swells and chaos in their wake. The big boats prevailed through the weather and the spoils of the best elapsed timeŽ were shared equally between Carlo Falcones beautiful 80-foot Fife, Mariella , and the Swan 651 Tihama . Vessels of all sizes and fashions participated, including several of the new Dragons based at the recently founded Harmony Hall Yacht Club „ their crews sailed magnificently. The competitive Swan 56 Lolita (past overall winner of Antigua Sailing Week) was even specially chartered for the event. The race was partly clouded by an accident on one of the yachts. Unpleasant though this accident was, it was not life-threatening, and the incident was well handled by the Race Committee and coordinated by the extremely professional ABSAR (Antigua and Barbuda Search and Rescue) inshore lifeboat supporting the race. In addition, the onshore medical facilities are very good in Antigua, and are always prepared to aid sailors. Despite this, facilities to deal with critical trauma, such as limb-saving operations, are perhaps not as sophisticated in Antigua as they are in neighboring Guadeloupe. The French Government has invested in the medical staff, facilities and equipment needed to deal with these most serious injuries and life-threatening conditions. And Guadeloupe is only a short helicopter flight from Antigua (less than 70 km). Recently much work has been done by Neil Forrester (Chairman of Antigua Sailing Week) and Jean Michel Marziou (Triskell Sailing Organisation, Guadeloupe) in promoting closer sailing ties between Antigua and Guadeloupe. This endeavor has been hugely supported by the likes of Tommy Patterson and Stan Pearson in Antigua, as well as other active members of the French and Antiguan sailing clubs. However, a fail-safe agreement between the Governments of Antigua and Guadeloupe to allow bureaucratically freeŽ emergency medical evacuation flights directly to the hospital in Guadeloupe has yet to be ratified. As more sailing events take place in Antigua (creating large influxes of people onto the island), the potential for straining the islands medical resources increases. A medical entente cordialeŽ between the islands would enhance the safety considerations of all sailors participating in sailing regattas in Antigua (and allow all mothers of sailors to rest more easily during the racing season!). Fast Barbados Round-the-Island Race 2008 Renata Goodridge reports: Barbados likes to commemorate one of its sailing statesmen, past Prime Minister Errol Barrow, by holding a race around the island. This is not for novices, as the east coast of the island carries its share of shoals and big waves. This year, the event was held on January 20th, the day before the bank holiday (allowing the sailors a day of rest before getting back into the work week). Three boats participated this year „ all 80-foot maxi racing boats. The local company Ocean Racing Challenge entered their two Whitbread maxis, Athina and Martella. The visiting IMS maxi Longo Barda, owned by Paul Edwards of the UK, also joined In the race. This latter maxi is a little bit wider and has a taller mast than the other two, so was able to carry more sail, which helped her push ahead to win the race. The boats all raced equally, with a start at 1015 hours. „Continued on next page FEBRUARY 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 14 March 20thMarch 24th € Yacht Races € J/24 Races € Local Double-Ender Races € Coconut Boat Races € Crazy Craft Race € Sandcastle Competition Notice of Race & Yacht Pre-Registration: www.begos.com/easterregattaTel: (784) 457-3649 e-mail: bsc@caribsurf.com SLYCs first-ever Fun Day saw a high turnout and high winds!

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FEBRUARY 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 15 „Continued from previous page These boats are fast! The visiting yacht won the race, with a time of 5 hours 29 minutes; Martella was not far behind with a time of 5 hours 35 minutes. Athina fell behind a bit due to some sail difficulties, but finished with a time of 6 hours 3 minutes. The racing conditions were demanding, with consistent northeast tradewinds blowing at a minimum of 25 knots, and the big sea swell ensured that all crews (even the seasick ones) needed to stay focused. Paul Edwards had said before the race that he would donate Bds$1000 to the crew that won the race. When his boat ended up winning, he promptly asked ORC what their favorite charity was. So the Barbados Cancer Society, through Andrew Burkes Sail from the Heart campaign (see story on page 12), will benefit from Pauls generosity. ORC is also donating their boats and time for this event, and will be in the flotilla that will sail alongside Andrew on the final leg of his journey (down the calmer west coast of the island!). These maxi men and women sure know how to support not only local sailing, but local charities as well. Heineken Regattas for 2008 For 30 years, Heineken has been involved in sponsoring sailing regattas in the Caribbean. And they are adding a new one for 2008: the Curaçao Heineken Regatta, whose motto is Serious FunŽ. The Curaçao Sailing Festival will hold this regatta from November 7th through 9th this year, with racing held in and around historic and colorful Willemstad. This will bring the number of large Heineken regattas to seven. The St. Maarten Heineken Regatta (March 6th through 9th), probably the best known Heineken-sponsored set of races, annually draws over 2,500 sailors from over 40 countries. Within the sailing world, St. Maarten is synonymous with quality and racing fun, and increases the number of visitors to the island every year. The Culebra International Regatta, held this year from March 14th through 16th, is always a well-contested event „ over 70 boats raced the event in 2007. „Continued on page 33 Left: Curaçaos Sailing Festival is now included in the roster of regional Heineken-sponsored regattas Below: Maxis charge across the starting line at the 2008 Around Barbados Race

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FEBRUARY 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 16 SVAAP SISTERSHIPby Norman FariaFrom the shores of the Carlisle Bay anchorage this past December, the ketch rigged 30-footer riding gracefully at anchor looked familiar. Rowing out to her, I found her to be the sistership of the John Alden-designed Svaap in which American William Albert Robinson made one of the earliest solo circumnavigations (during 1928 to 1931). On board the later version, named Walkabout and built in Australia by the Driscoll Brothers in 1952, was another singlehander, Britisher Clive Ellis. Clive, a retired shipwright, said he bought the still immaculately maintained long keeler from the Saunders family of Zimbabwe who had sailed her from Mozambique to England in the 1960s. I bought her in 1974. At the time I was living aboard an old Dutch barge, built in 1916, in a marina in Chichester, and Mike and Liz and their kids were in the boat nearby. When they decided to move ashore, I took it over. I rebuilt the cabin interior and put in a new Beta 35-horsepower diesel to replace the BMC Captain. Also an electric anchor winch and roller furling for the jib and a few other luxuries.Ž This is the second visit to the Caribbean for Clive in Walkabout . In 1979, he visited Barbados and other islands during a leisurely Atlantic sojourn. The Driscolls had built her hull to last. It is of the really hard jarrah ( Eucalyptus marginata ) wood with copper-riveted, steam-bent frames. The laid decking, very beautifully done, is also of a type of eucalyptus. The boats length overall is actually 33 feet (10 metres). Basically, except for the few luxuriesŽ, most of the original gear, including the wooden spars and bronze fittings, are still there and functioning well. The Aries selfsteering is the same one used on the previous Atlantic crossing. On this trip, Barbados was raised after an uneventful 16-day run from the Cape Verdes. Clive said he wasnt particularly looking for a vintage wooden boat when he bought her. I knew about Robinson and the Svaap and in fact have his book Deep Water and Shoal on board. I just happened to be there at the time (when the Saunders decided to sell). Now, Ive had the boat so long, its part of me. I have a son bumming around, as they say, on a bus in New Zealand. I am heading there now and I guess I will pass on the boat to him.Ž From Barbados, Clive was due to head for Carriacou in the Grenadines and then Grenada on this still fine example of American boat design know-how and Australian boatbuilding expertise.Ideal Wave Will Doby Norman FariaIn 1966, American film director/writer Bruce Brown made the still-memorable movie called The Endless Summer which chronicled the world-wide travels of two young surfers searching for the perfect wave. Also in that year, a young Swedish boat designer, Per Brohäll, came up with a remarkable little pocket cruiser which he called the Albin Vega . Recently, young German surfer Holger BeuleŽ Sander sailed his Vega to Barbados, starting a Caribbean quest for a good, ideal „ he wouldnt go so far as to say perfectŽ „ wave. Back in the mid-1960s, the movie Endless Summer was influential in popularizing the sport outside traditional areas like Hawaii and California. Holger, on his beach-hopping so far, isnt any trail-blazer in that respect. The sport is all over the world now, he tells you as he makes coffee for us aboard Liza in the Carlisle Bay anchorage. How is the surfing in Barbados? Ive been to a couple places on the east and south coast here, including Bathsheba which I understand is the place for internationally recognized championships. The waves in the island are okay, but it depends on the weather which changes the wave sizes and patterns. Im looking forward to visiting some of the other islands.Ž Holger, who hails from Cologne and started surfing in 1985, said he bought the Vega in June 2006 from his friend Kyle Taylor after both of them had sailed it across the Bay of Biscay. Holger then sailed Liza across the Atlantic, accompanied by old friend Tony Chavez, who naturally, is a surfer from California. Also on board is a dog of unknown breed called Guvvy, whom they found while staying at a campground in Morocco (world class waves there,Ž Holger chips in). Beside the other gear on board, including the surfboards, are two life vests for Guvvy. Everything has gone well so far. Liza made a fairly slow (28 days) crossing from the Canary Islands to Barbados. The German-made Wind Pilot self-steering gear performed exceptionally well. The Albin Vega turned out to be a good choice, too. The 27-foot (8.25-metre) sloop was well built out of fiberglass by the Larsson Marine yard in Sweden in 1972. Over 3,000 were built and many are sailing all over the world. Liza (original name) bears sail number 634. A review of the design in Good Old Boat magazines website noted: sailboat performance is the distilled essence of a series of compromisesŽ but went on to say that Brohäll came up with a really outstanding, fast, reasonably roomy, and inexpensive pocket cruiser. Holger, who does carpentry and shipwright work when necessary, may have some disagreements with the description roomyŽ. While in Barbados he was thinking of buying a Morgan Out Island. Gazing at the waves coming home to break over the reef in front of the new Hilton Hotel at Needhams Point, he hasnt as yet found his ideal wave. The two stars in the film Endless Summer found theirs off the southeast coast of Africa, if I remember from seeing the movie 40 years ago (!). Holger doesnt feel he has to go that far. From what hes seen of the Caribbean so far, it could be right here.DIFFERENT BOATSƒ ƒFOR DIFFERENT FOLKS This is Clives second visit to the Caribbean in Walkabout Holgers Albin Vega, Liza, is a proven pocket cruiserPHOTOS (2): NORMAN FARIA

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FEBRUARY 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 17 BAREBOAT CHARTERS FULLY CREWED CHARTERS ASA SAILING SCHOOLPO Box 39, Blue Lagoon, St Vincent, West Indies Tel. 1-784-456-9526 / 9334 / 9144 Fax. 1-784-456-9238 barebum@caribsurf.com www.barefootyachts.com Barefoot Yacht Charters & Marine Centre € Doyle Sail Loft & Canvas Shop€ Raymarine Electronics€ Refrigeration Work € Mechanical & Electrical Repairs€ Fibreglass Repairs€ Laundry € Vehicle Rentals€ Showers€ Air Travel € Ice & Water€ Diesel & Propane€ Moorings € Island Tours€ Surftech Surf Shop€ Hotel Reservations € Quiksilver Surf wear€ Restaurant & Bar€ Boutique € On-site Accommodation€ Wi-Fi / Internet Café€ Book Exchange Since1984Launch de boat! Launch de boat!Ž The crowd was getting anxious. Many of them had been there on the beach on the tiny Grenadine island of Petite Martinique since 9:00AM. It was now late afternoon and there were still a few feet of sand between the boat and the shore. They had already listened to the speeches from various dignitaries, including the Prime Minister of Grenada, of which PMŽ and Carriacou are part. (The P.M. was on PM in the PM.) Film crews had abandoned their tripods, now gloriously employed to hold the boatowners bottle of Guinness. One last heave and the crowd gave a loud cheer, followed by a collective sigh as the bow embedded itself firmly into the shoreline, the stern still on land. This was a heavy boat for a 40-footer and the method of launching her was a bit unusual too, at least by local standards. We had arrived a bit late, sailing the Spencer 44 Yellowbird upwind from Carriacous Tyrrel Bay to Petite Martinique that morning, Sunday, January 13th. I was disappointed, thinking we had missed the cutting down. Its a real delight to see all those strong West Indian men wielding large axes slashing at the supports in unison until a vessel gently rests on her side, but since this boats keel was already attached and loaded with 3,500 pounds of lead, they chose to roll the boat to the water while still in her cradle, which explains why it was taking so long. The rollers themselves were a bit too small for the job and, since they were soft galvanized pipes, they were flattening under the excessive load. Though not his first choice, the builder was forced to use whatever was available „ thats the nature of boatbuilding in this neck of the woods. And he will learn from the experience and it will be better next time. LuckyŽ Jeff gets a Mulligan. Jeff Stevens is captain of Jambalaya , a 65-foot Carriacou-built wooden schooner that plies the Grenadines on charter, a breathtaking sight under full sail, postcard perfect. He had this new sloop built to take smaller groups of guests out on day charter, but it was not meant to be. Before the vessel was completed he had received a purchase offer. Now all he had to do to close the deal was get her rigged and ready to race in the Port Louis Grenada Sailing Festival at the end of January. Then he could start the whole thing over again and build the next boat. But first there was the troubling matter of a little sand. Magic was first up. Her day job is school bus, taking children from PM to Carriacou and back, but she wasnt strong enough to pull the sloop out to sea. Next up was the Adelaide , a big cargo vessel that carries all sorts of freight to and from Grenada. She was up for the job, but the line let go on the first try, giving us time to move Yellowbird out of the way. Another bit of fiddling with lines from speedboat to cargo ship and suddenly Savvy was afloat. Raucous cheering was immediately followed by a hasty retreat of the spectators boarding the last ferry returning to Carriacou, satisfied that they got what they came for. Boatbuilding on Carriacou and Petite Martinique is still a way of life for a handful of families that have been doing this work for generations. The youth arent as interested in this skill as much as the old folks would like. Dem young fellas just wanna lime around,Ž I hear many of the old craftsmen complain. Its hard work and can be tedious, doesnt pay as well as construction and there are no tips from tourists. There are many idle days when they cant get the material they need, or sometimes just because its raining and they havent proper shelter. Simple things with seemingly simple solutions. Its a rare sight to see politicians, police and the press at a launching. Its usually a priest, a bloody chicken and a bottle of rum. But boatbuilding is enjoying a resurgence, thanks in part to people like Jeff, and the powers-that-be are starting to take notice. Young men can take pride in building a boat, something rare in these days of mass production, and the old men are delighted when they can get a commission to keep their boys working and pass on their experience and knowledge. Baldwin DeRoche has been building boats since he was a boy and talks articulately about his craft. Next time hell use stronger rollers, maybe bigger. They were lucky to get the lead they needed, it has been a scarce commodity and its much better than the alternative, a hull full of stones that can shift dangerously. Handling the lead is risky business, too. The last launching in Carriacou was delayed while the owners slowly collected old batteries to melt down for the lead content. Theres recycling for you! Too bad we cant reuse all those aluminum beer cans to make a mast. And when the next vessel is launched Ill be sure to be on time, just in case they cant get lead for the ballast and go back to cutting her down.Launching in Petite Martiniqueby Susan Payetta Above: Afloat at last! Left: Local cargo vessel Adelaide pulling Savvy into the sea

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FEBRUARY 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 18 Le Phare Bleu Marina & Resort Petite Calivigny Bay St. Georges -GRENADA www.lepharebleu.com phone 473 444 2400 POS 12°0011N/61°4329W At Le Phare Bleu Marina, Grenada, you can feel at ease knowing that you and your boat will be well looked after. Located 15 minutes from the airport and town, the marina has 60 slips for yachts up to 100 feet, buoyed entrance ISLAND DREAMS Yacht Services Guardianage & Yacht Managementmark@islandreamsgrenada.com www.islandreamsgrenada.com tel 473 443 3603 Tel/Fax 473 443 2960 Cell 473 449 0780 dave@TheCanvasShopGrenada.com Tel/Fax: (473) 444-5108 Tel: (473) 444-5180 Cell: 409-5108/409-5180 brockle9@hotmail.comChristopher PascalP.O.Box 3636 St. Georges GrenadaC&JAuto Rentals ENRY`S SAFARI OURS LTD. tel 444 5313/443 5296 fax 444 4460 Email: safari@spiceisle.com Everything you need in one place: Marine Diesel & Electrical Engineering, Generator Maintenance & Servicing, Emergency Repairs, 24 Hours Water Taxi & Water Tours Private Taxi Service, Yacht Services, Eco-Friendly Tours, Laundry Services, Special Request, Filling Gasbottles were open now! She was built in 1965, one of 12 fiberglass training vessels for the US Naval Academy midshipmen in Annapolis, Maryland. She replaced a nearly identical but engineless mahogany yawl of the same name. Hundreds of midshipmen, ten or 12 at a time, cruised and raced her sturdy blue hull while practicing command and control at sea. The Luders 44 yawl Frolic , NA-5, was transferred in 1987 to the US Coast Guard Academy, painted white and renamed Kittiwake . The government of the Virgin Islands bought her in 1994, but had no resources to restore her after Hurricane Lenny washed her ashore in November, 1999. When the VI government auctioned her in July 2006, there were no bidders. It seemed as though she would end her life as a hurricane victim in St. Croix, USVI. Her hull was a living reef, her decks soft, her interior a termite banquet. Her hull was covered by oysters, a sharp line on her bulkhead marked where the waters of Salt River lay for nearly seven years, and who knew in what condition her rigging, sails, engine and cushions would be? Joe McCants grew up on St. Simons Island, Georgia, and had rebuilt several wooden and fiberglass boats in the past: Aleria , a John Alden sloop damaged by Hurricane Lenny; Hobo , a John Hammond 44-foot sloop; Ghost Dancer , a Hunter 30, and others. He also has a horse farm near the Rio San Juan in the Dominican Republic, that is now for sale. Yawls are still new to me,Ž he says. „Continued on next page Frolic: Gaiety, a prank, merrymaking; gambol: to leap, to frisk in sportby Ellen Sanpere Before. These photos taken in October 2006 at the Christiansted boardwalk show that Frolics interior and exteriorƒ um, needed a little workHAYES / MCCANTS

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FEBRUARY 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 19 „Continued from previous page Joe sailed Vigilant , a Luders 44, on the Chesapeake Bay in 1982, and knew hed like to have a Navy yawl someday. Vigilant , NA-12, and Alert , NA-2, had retired from Academy duty and were in use at the Navy Sailing Club in Patuxent, Maryland. Closer to Joes home, Resolute , NA-3, (renamed Osprey when transferred to the Coast Guard Academy), is now owned by Lee and Larry Best of St. John, USVI, and has visited St. Croix often. When Joe saw Frolic at a Department of Planning & Natural Resources mooring after the unsuccessful auction, he could tell that 1) the Luders lines were as beautiful as hed remembered, and 2) immediate action was needed or his dream would sink before the next auction, in October. A rented pump kept her afloat until Joe submitted the only bid. A good friend of the late artist Gabby Hayes, Joe introduced Gabbys widow, Diane Given Hayes, to sailing. She had lived and worked within sight of the harbor since 1987, and had loved childhood camping vacations in her native California. After coming to St. Croix on a ten-day vacation trip from which she never returned, Diane worked as a commercial artist, doing ad design for newspapers and at Caribbean Printing. For extra income, she waitressed. After Gabbys death, in 2003, Diane helped restore Ghost Dancer , then moved aboard with Joe. Living aboard a 30-foot sloop was not too different from camping. They knew they could restore the graceful 44-foot yawl. Having a tiny mizzen would keep the boat head to wind at their mooring. Diane and Gabby were full-time painters after Hurricane Hugo destroyed many of the islands homes and offices and much of its artwork. They sold many of their paintings through displays at Baggys Too, a popular restaurant in Gallows Bay, where Diane worked as a waitress. He taught me patience,Ž Diane says, an especially important skill when working in watercolors, where you have to save the white space for last.Ž Living on a boat, however, meant she had to limit the size of her works to 11Žx15Ž. Her desire to make larger paintings was satisfied in part by commissions for murals. Her most visible murals are in several St. Croix restaurants: Golden Rail, Styxx, Shenanigans and Smugglers Cove boast large, colorful, ocean-oriented acrylic pieces. The public murals have led to private commissions in acrylic and smaller watercolors. With Joe aboard Ghost Dancer , she sailed to Venezuela, where they explored islands and inland, including a rare visit with the Yanomami Indians near Rio San Carlos in southern Venezuela. She is eager to see more of the Caribbean islands and their people. Frolics recovery began in October 2006, with a tow to the Christiansted boardwalk, where multiple layers of paint were power-washed away into many five-gallon pails. During a month hauled out at St. Croix Marine, Joe hammered off the oysters and replaced the boats engine and propeller shaft. At her mooring in the harbor, Joe and Diane continued the work and moved aboard as soon as they could after selling Ghost Dancer . They were pleased to find the hull and spars were sound, the lights worked and that 17 sails, cushions for the nine bunks, and an awning had been stored ashore and were in good condition. The heavy bronze portlights were watertight. Frolic now has new rigging, new non-skid on her new decks, and a new electrical panel. New wood, including a native mahogany table, replaced termite-damaged furnishings. Joe has serviced and reinstalled seven of the 15 winches. Still on the list: roller furling and topsides paint. The bunks amidships will be converted to a dinette and settee. When the hull is painted, blue, the name on the transom will return to Frolic . While Diane worked at the Paradise Café last summer, she noticed when the space above Judith Kings Yellow House Gallery became available and seized the opportunity to have a studio of her own. Named after the warning sign on its ancient stairway, the Watch Your Step Studios grand opening was during November 2007s Art Thursday. I like the light, theres a cooling breeze, and I can do larger paintings,Ž she says. The studio has a bathroom with a shower! You know how important that can be to a cruiser, especially one with a cockpit shower, during the winter.Ž A mural on one wall portrays the adjacent walls bare stone and brick as a bougainvillea-framed ruin, beyond which one could almost step into Trunk Bay. Bright red shutters hang on windows overlooking Queen Cross Street. When the work on Frolic is finished, Joe and Diane will cruise the Caribbean for two to three years, then look for their next project. For Diane, that might be learning about oil painting, where the white is painted on last. For Joe, it might be another yacht restoration „ or not. Postscript: A major overhaul of Vigilant has also been done, and she participated in the Annapolis Sail Boat Show in October 2007. The US Naval Sailing Association has been given permission to raise money and find a home for Intrepid , a sister ship of Frolic . She is currently on the hard in Annapolis, about to be disposed of if USNSA cannot find the resources to keep her. For more information contact Bob Howe at usnsa@usna.edu. After. Joe and Diane are rightly proud of their beautifully transformed plastic classic SANPERE

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FEBRUARY 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 20 by Devi SharpIt is nice to feel welcome in a new anchorage, and the local Chamber of Commerce is on hand to welcome us to Pelican Island on the Macareo River, one of the main tributaries in Venezuelas Orinoco Delta. Nine brown pelicans are lined up on a partially submerged log behind the island and wait until our anchors are set to fly off, leaving us to ponder the fact that we had broken suctionŽ from Chaguaramas, Trinidad, and now floated in the fresh water of the Macareo River. As we enjoy our first sundowner, we watch and photograph Scarlet Ibis, Brown Pelicans, Snowy Egrets and Little Blue Herons landing and roosting on the island. The Scarlet Ibises look like Christmas decorations on the mangrove islands. We sleep with new wonderful jungle noises and wake to howler monkeys calling nearby. I think I hear barnacles on the hull giving their last breath as they die in the fresh water. We are four boats: Arctic Tern, Asseance, Camille and Good Time Charlie . I have named our fleet the Macareo Meander. Bob on Good Time Charlie has been up this river twice before and we listen to his advice to sneakŽ by the first village, Barra Macareo Cosaria, so we do not get stripped of all of our trade goods at this village of about 300 people. We dont manage to actually sneak past, but we decline to trade and tell them that we will be back in a few weeks. The river is broad, about half a mile across, and silty. We minimize the oneto three-knot current by staying close to the shore and on the insides of bends. The bird-watching is better near the shore, and that makes me happy. We pass a few houses and three canoes come to greet us and ask us for  cambio ,Ž the word used for trade. Blue and Yellow Macaws are flying over the house platform. We trade T-shirts and shampoo for a few small baskets and beaded necklaces. „Continued on next page D D D D E E E E S S S S T T T T I I I I N N N N A A A A T T T T I I I I O O O O N N N N S S S S MACAREO MEANDER Good Time Charlie has been up this river twice before

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FEBRUARY 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 21 „Continued from previous page By the end of the day we pass another settlement and, to our great surprise, a pink sun hat is a hit. More beaded necklaces are offered and traded for toothbrushes and toothpaste, more T-shirts, magazines, fish hooks and D-cell batteries. Several boating magazines and newspapers have just increased their circulation. National Geographic magazines are popular „ everyone loves to look at the photos of animals and other people. The people living on Macareo River are Wareo Indians and are called the Canoe People.Ž That is an apt name. The Wareo houses are platforms built only a few feet above the river. Hammocks, baskets and bags hang from the structure and hold the possessions of the occupants. Most of the house platforms have no walls. The canoes are hollowed-out logs and it is hard not to notice that some are very leaky. In many respects the Wareo live as they have for centuries, but change is coming fast. Bob provides us with a sense of what has changed since his last visit three years ago. Several of the settlements now have some buildings with tin roofs and there are many more outboard motors. The larger settlements also have generators. The government has provided the generators and outboards, but the Wareo need to find cash to buy the gas and oil. We are witnessing a profound change in this culture as they move into the cash economy. At several of the settlements we are asked for flour and sugar since these food commodities are very scarce. We are surprised that there is some interest in non-traditional foods „ more than we were led to believe from the notes from previous cruisers. This is more evidence of change. The traditional foods come from the river and the land. Palm trees provide hearts of palm, moriche (a fruit of the palm) and a paste that is made into flour for baking bread. Fish is the main source of protein with the occasional addition of river turkeys (horned screamers), wild boar and caiman. The settlements that have dry land have chickens and pigs. There is little organized gardening because it does not work well in this seasonally inundated environment. Many of the people living in the settlements in the lower 20 miles of the river move upriver in the dry season because the river becomes salty without rain and the constant influx of fresh water. One morning we invite a young fisherman aboard for a cup of coffee. We show him a National Geographic and he recognizes elephants, but not zebras. „Continued on next page Above: We spent a portion of almost every day, and sometimes whole days, exploring side caños Left: Scarlet Ibises roosting for the night; the bird-watching is best near the shore

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FEBRUARY 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 22 „Continued from previous page It is hard to know how much of the outside world the Wareo are familiar with „ why elephants and not zebras? There are two schools in the first 60 miles and many more settlements. Many of the children do not have the advantage of schooling. At Boca la Pela (also called Barra de Latal) we befriend the schoolteacher and give him a notebook and pencil for each of his 28 students. His primary curriculum is to teach the children to speak VenezuelanŽ (Spanish). All along the river children ask for cuaderno and lapiz (notebook and pencil). It is comical to see a canoe coming toward us with water rhythmically flying out of it. One boy is paddling and the other is madly bailing. They ask for libros (books). Young kids in canoes, whose combined age is about ten, manage their boats almost flawlessly. When they have an out-of-control moment there is much giggling and chatting. We all laugh. Most of the people we trade with understand and speak Spanish and, since I am the only Spanish speaker in our fleet of cruisers, I do a lot of translating. But, truth be known, this whole trip could be done with minimal Spanish, good skill in charades, and a big smile. We are floating trading posts. The number one request is for flanelas (T-shirts) and a very close second is tela „ fabric for making dresses. Scraps or small pieces will not do. A dress requires at least a yard and a half of cloth, depending on its width, and maybe more for a larger woman. As we float by a settlement, the experienced traders come dashing out in their canoes and set a course to meet us at our boats. I dont know if the Wareo have learned to approach sailboats carefully and use the side with the fenders, or it is just good boat sense, but they are very careful and polite about approaching us. The old hands at cambio bring samples of what they would like to acquire. We see toothbrushes that look worse than the old brush I use for cleaning stainless steel. Toothpaste tubes that have been slit open and the contents carefully scraped out serve as models for their needs. By the end of the trip we have all scoured our lockers for extra toothpaste, toothbrushes, shampoo and bars of soap. We can re-provision in Trinidad. Trading wears us out and we are happy for an early stop for the evening. We spend a portion of almost every day, and sometimes whole days, exploring side caños. These are the side streams and old river channels off of the main river. Some of the caños offer a welcome change from the silty water of the main Rio Macareo. Some of the caños are deep and open enough to allow us to take the big boats up them. Caño Tucupita has access to the Rio Macareo at both ends, so on our way back down river we follow it and do not retrace our up-the-mainstream route. We spend three days in this 18-mile stretch of river. One early morning, my husband, Hunter, caught three fish in a side caño off of the Caño Tucupita. We later ask some men in a motor canoe if the fish were piranha and they say yes and that piranha are very good to eat. Caño Nabasanuca is very open and deep and we take the big boats up about five miles, where we anchor for a swim and lunch. The bird-watching is excellent and the lack of silt in the tannin-brown water makes for a nice swim. Hoatzins fascinate all of us. These primitive birds look like something in the chicken or pheasant family that is having a very bad hair day. They have a spiky crest and our signal for them becomes an outstretched hand on top of our heads. Hoatzins eat leaves of the giant arum plant and are found only in swampy or other locations where these grow. The young have a claw on each wing that assists them in climbing around in vegetation, and when disturbed or frightened the young simply drop into the water, swim to safety and climb back into the jungle. The claw and ability to swim are lost as they grow into adults. Although these are shy birds they do not hide well because of falling young and the noise of the adults clambering about the leaves. They appear a bit clumsy, but we find them hard to photograph. „Continued on next page Wareo houses are platforms built only a few feet above the river

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FEBRUARY 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 23 € Excellent dockage for Super-yachts up to 350 LOA, 21 Draft € 30 stern-to berths, 30 alongside berths with full marina facilities € Electricity (110, 220 & 380 3-phase), water, fuel, telephone & internet, cable TV, 24hr security, garbage disposal & washroom € Drive-down dock providing easy access for large shipments & marine services www.antigua-marina.com falmar@candw.ag Tel: +1 268 460 6054 Fax: +1 268 460 6055 Falmouth Harbour Marina REAL SAILORS BUY STREETS GUIDESReal sailors use Streets Guides for inter-island and harbor piloting directions, plus interesting anecdotes of people, places and history. Streets Guides are the only ones that describe ALL the anchorages in the Eastern Caribbean. Real sailors also buy the other guides, that have pretty pictures and describe hotels, bars, restaurants and anchorages that are popular with bareboaters. Real sailors circle in Streets Guide the anchorages that are not described in the other guides. This enables them to find quiet anchorages far from The Madding CrowdŽ.Streets Guides are available at bookshops and chandleries, or from www.iUniverse.com and www.seabooks.com STREETS GUIDES ARE MORE ECONOMICAL!Written by an author with 50 years of sailing experience in the Caribbean, the series four volumes cover the Eastern Caribbean from Puerto Rico down through the islands and the coast of Venezuela to the ABCs. „Continued from previous page Towards the end of the three weeks, we are beginning to run low on trade goods and we dig deep into our lockers and our creativity. The little kids often ask for bombas and our supply of balloons is low. Hey, we all know the trick of blowing up a latex glove and tying it off and calling it a chicken. We show the kids how to make bombas de gallo (rooster balloons). More giggling erupts from the kids. We are very aware that our presence has an impact upon the Wareo. Many needs that they feel are in a large part brought on by the intrusion of modern society. The government has been involved in the villages during the last two years. Tin roofs, generators, outboards, schools, and visiting health workers are changing the expectations of the Wareo. The river, mangroves and forest have sustained them for years, probably centuries, so one could argue that they do not need shampoo and T-shirts, but you can also see that this is a culture involved in the steep part of the change and developmentŽ curve. We try to be mindful of our impact and make a positive impact on the Wareo culture. During our time on the river we make use of the Rio Macareo navigation package that was put together by other cruisers in 1999 and recently updated. It is now available at the Members Only Maxi Taxi Service office (Jesse James) in Chaguaramas. The text is very useful and accurate and we used the chartlets in the package. This is not a trip for everyone. Not all bottom paint will remain effective after a prolonged immersion in fresh water. (It would be a shame to ruin that new bottom paint in a few quick weeks on the river.) Most importantly, you need to be self-sufficient. There is no place to re-supply. You are the chandlery, grocery and hardware store. You are also the mechanic and the doctor. Our trip was during the rainy season and there were bugs. We on the four yachts had our sundownersŽ and shared meals at mid-day in order to avoid the evening onslaught of mosquitoes. Bob had made his previous trips in the dry season and he said that the overall number of mosquitoes was lower in the dry season. But the upper caños and lagoons definitely supported healthy mosquito populations even in the dry season. I have many wonderful photos and memories of the Rio Macareo „ and by the way, the barnacles did die. Devi and her husband Hunter are currently exploring the Caribbean in their sailboat Arctic Tern. Exploring the Orinoco Delta by yacht is a radical change from Lesser Antilles island-hopping. You must be completely self-sufficientUNIVERSITY OF TEXAS

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FEBRUARY 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 24 Full Service Marina Facility VIRGINGORDAYACHTHARBOUROur facility located in the heart of beautiful Virgin Gorda comprises a 111-slip marina and a boatyard with 12 acres of dry storage space offering insurance approved hurricane pits to secure your vessel during hurricane season. Onsite amenities and services include a bank/ATM, a supermarket, chandlery, restaurant, bakery, clothing store, dive shop, phone and fax facilities, free wireless internet access, fuel, water and ice, laundry facilities, and an office of the BVI Tourist Board all in a pristine and relaxing environment. BVI Customs and immigration located within convenient walking distance. Tel: 284 495-5500 284 495-5318 Fax: 284 495-5706 284 495-5685 Web: www.vgmarina.biz VHF Ch: 16LEAVE YOUR BOAT IN OUR CARE THIS SUMMER D D D D E E E E S S S S T T T T I I I I N N N N A A A A T T T T I I I I O O O O N N N N S S S S I had taken off from Culebra for Vieques to check out a neat bay on the eastern end, a former military practice range where our good US government bombed and strafed from the 1950s until just a few years ago. Bahía Icacos has a tricky entrance between a small island and a coral reef. I pulled in on a Wednesday to a beautiful bay with no one else there. I was walking forward to anchor when a truck pulled up on shore and the uniformed guy got out and kindly explained that they were defusing unexploded ordnance and I was not allowed to anchor there except on the weekends. I motored back out between the reefs and set sail west for Isabella Segunda, the small capital of Vieques. It was a smooth sail with a southeast wind coming over the island holding me just offshore of the extensive reef system. So, on a weekend, I took off again to visit the bombed end of Vieques, sailing a light east wind the eight miles south across Vieques Sound. As I neared Bahía Icacos, I was disappointed to see not one, but seven large sportfishermen already in the anchorage behind the reef. As I closed with the island, three more big sportfishermen pulled in. Now, I am always one for a party and have raised a fair amount of hell in my time, but few hold a candle to the party power of the Puerto Rican. They can drink and yell and play loud music all night from their big boat stereos and then go to sleep in their ice castles with their generators running all night to keep them cool. Not what I was looking for in the least. As I sailed into the harbor, I noticed the next bay to the east was empty. Although my chart showed a continuous reef enclosing the bay, with the sun overhead I could clearly see a narrow pass in through the reef. I doused the sails and went for it under power. Just then, a giant plume of cloud lifted up from some boiling cumulus hanging over Vieques, making eyeball navigation way less exact. I had a good picture in my mind from before the cloud, though, and went on in with memory and the depth sounder. Spinning the boat around in a tight circle to smooth the water for a look, I found good bottom in seven feet of water over grass and dropped the plow. There was almost no wind and I saw a big dark spot about 50 yards behind the boat and decided to investigate it later. To the east was a large sheer cliff of layered yellow rock going out into a precipice like a small Rock of Gibraltar. After lunch of raw onion and cabbage sandwiches with hummus, I rowed ashore to find world-class sand burrs lining the beach. There were also big signs saying KEEP OUTŽ, with graphic depictions of exploding bombs. I figured that the roads were safe, as I had seen the guards driving on them, so I headed off for a completely illegal survey of the island, walking only on fresh tire tracks. „Continued on next page EXPLORING EAST VIEQUESby John St. John

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FEBRUARY 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 25 IT'S MUCH MORE THAN A MARINA: IT'S HOME!WE OFFER: € 24 hour security € 120 concrete slip berths € Electricity: 220V/ 50amp; 110V/300amps (single phase and three phase) € 16ft channel € Fuel dock and bunkering € Free satellite TV at each slip € Telephone hook-up € Shower facilities € Wireless internet, banks and laundry within the complex € Pick-up and drop-off from major supermarkets We monitor VHF channels 16 & 79A (alpha … American system) P.O. Box 4540, Airport Road, Sint Maarten, N.A., Caribbean Tel: 599-5442309 Fax: 599-5443378 Visit our website: www.sbmarina.biz E-mail: reservations@sbmarina.biz Over and over again our guests refer to our marina as their "Home"! Join us this summer and continue to enjoy the hospitality. „Continued from previous page There were bomb craters everywhere and no trees of any large size. The landscape here is gently rolling and I noticed port-o-potties everywhere „ more than in most public parks. I guess defusing dud bombs can have an adverse effect on the sphincter muscle. There were plenty of roads running every direction and sharp-edged shrapnel everywhere, including on the roads. As I came around a curve, I discovered three lowsided steel boxes full of bombs and mortars. My determination to stay on the roads was certainly strengthened. I climbed to the top of the yellow cliff to survey the boat, now that the sun had returned, and learned I had anchored just ahead of a small isolated inner reef. I headed back down into the valley and as I was crossing to the south side of the island, I passed what appeared to be a simulated truck convoy made up of old heavy-construction equipment „ bulldozers, road graders, pay loaders, tractors and such. It stretched for a quarter of a mile and had had the literal living ____ (rhymes with skit) shot out of it. Large iron castings were shattered, hard steel-cogged drive wheels three feet in diameter and five inches thick were broken like cheap china, giant diesel engines were smashed and thrown clear of the vehicles and every piece of sheet metal remaining was ripped and perforated with bullet holes of all sizes (Swiss cheese has fewer holes). On the south shore I climbed a hill where a large Sherman tank had sat for years on a promontory. This had always been a landmark when sailing down the south side of Vieques. The tank was now in the process of being dismantled with a cutting torch, the parts placed in a big pile of scrap. The large air-cooled engine and transmission had been removed, the turret had been cut off, and the gun barrel had been cut up like sausage links. They had started cutting up the body of the tank where the metal was easily one and a half inches thick. Somebody was going through a bunch of tanks of oxygen. Then it was back across the island by a different route, skirting a large dried-up salt pond with craters of dark blue-green water pocked throughout. I figured they would make great hot-tub mineral baths, but for the exotic metals in the explosives probably lingering in the water. I headed back towards the boat down the road running beside all of the sportfishermen, and over the hill to my boats anchorage. Just as I was crossing the last hill, I heard a truck coming up behind me and figured I was screwed „ caught trespassing red-handed. And I had been so close to getting away with it! I had always wondered about the big red-and-white lookout tower in the middle of the island on the highest hill, and was looking at the bright side of being arrested by figuring that I would be taken there and at least get to see it. The guy pulls up beside me and rolls down his window. I say Hi!Ž He is a nice-looking Hispanic in a guard uniform. He looks at me with a smile and says in Spanish-accented English, Stay on the roads!Ž Apparently the east Vieques mantra! I agreed to do so, saying that I figured if he could drive on them, I could walk on them. And that was that. He drives on and I walk on, still a free man and still always willing to take a chance. Back to the boat for a swim on my private little reef, just off the stern, where I saw plenty of sea life including large yellowtail worthy of whacking. Then a beautiful sunset with the yellow cliff lit up by the red setting sun and a quiet night with all the sportfish noise and lights downwind behind the hill. Fair winds, and remember „ Stay on the road!Ž Below left: Peaceful landscapes contrast with the islands former role as a bombing practice site Right: Searching for solitude, our correspondent found an unusual spot to anchor at Bahía SalinasGrenadaGEORGE BLANN CRUISING GUIDE PUBLICATIONS

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FEBRUARY 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 26 Chacachacare: A TROPICAL GHOST TOWNby Jo-Anne SewlalOf the 14 islands off the northwestern coast of Trinidad, Chacachacare is the largest and westernmost. Presently, Chacachacare is relatively uninhabited (lighthouse keepers are present), as are most of the other Bocas Islands. Although most of these islands have been inhabited at some time, Chacachacare remains the best known, because of the leper colony placed there in the 1920s. I first visited the island during a Tropical Island Ecology field trip, as an undergrad. We camped in the abandoned Nuns Quarters at Marine Bay on the north side of the island. I fell in love with the island. What attracted me was that it is a huge ghost town, with eroding roads and abandoned houses in various stages. What events they have seen! Besides homes, there were once hospitals and quarters for the nuns and doctors that cared for the lepers. There were also Catholic and Anglican churches and a Hindu temple for East Indian patients. There was a jail and a cinema; sadly all that is left of it is some of the equipment. Not much is left of many of the buildings except for their foundations along with some concrete stairs. Dont be surprised to see a solitary set of stairs or a flat pad of concrete when you are walking in the bush. There are a few cemeteries on the island. Except for the small, well-kept one near the nuns quarters, they have gotten covered with vegetation and their exact locations are not known. During World War II, a battalion of US Marines was stationed here and nine barracks were built to house them; three around the convent area in Marine Bay, one at Perruquier Bay in the east, three around the lighthouse, and two above Rusts Bay, also in the east. These sites were given back to the Trinidad & Tobago Government in 1947. Small portions of the buildings remain, as well as some deepdug and concrete ammunition dumps. Why was an entire island abandoned? Let me give you a brief history of the island. The first inhabitants were the Amerindians and evidence of their presence was found in middens at Sanders Bay on the south side. By 1777 there were no more Amerindians and the Spanish had settled on the island and established sea island cotton plantations. You can see remnants of the plantations in clumps of cotton trees along the way from Sanders Bay to Marine Bay. Cotton disappeared as a commercial crop sometime around 1850 and was replaced by whaling, which only lasted for 50 years. However, ruins of the old whaling establishment at Bulmers Bay on the southwest of the island are still seen today, in particular the rail tracks that were used to pull the whales up on land to extract the meat. All the while Chacachacare was growing and was once home to 300 people. In 1921 all this changed when the government of Trinidad decided to turn the island into a leper colony and evicted the inhabitants. The island was chosen because of its isolation, decreasing the chance of the lepers spreading the disease. In September 1984, after the introduction of successful treatment by multi-drug therapy, the last of the lepers were sent home. If you spend a few days on the island you will get the feel of life here during the last century. There is no freshwater source, so former inhabitants depended on the rain. If you are camping or boating, bring your own. Camping can only be done by permission of the Chaguaramas Development Authority (www.chagdev.com). If you intend to camp in one of the many abandoned buildings, exercise caution as they may be unstable „ the roof could come crashing down on you. This caution should be extended to any buildings you plan to explore, as most floors are wooden and parts have decayed after the years. Eventually all the buildings will be taken over by the vegetation and nature will reclaim what was hers. Because of its once relatively large population, the island had a network of roads. Those inland have become trails, while most of the coastal roads have eroded and fallen into the sea. If you come ashore to explore, youll see that the trails are paved with asphalt. In some places, where the asphalt has eroded, pieces of coral are visible. Coral was used as gravel when the roads were constructed. „Continued on next page ALL ASHOREƒ Chacachacare boasts the only salt pond in Trinidad & Tobago

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FEBRUARY 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 27 True Blue Bay Marina Resort & Villas Dock, moor or set anchor at True Blue Bay located in the south coast of Grenada and enjoy our full service marina and fabulous accommodation. Caribbean cocktails and delicious dishes are a must at our waterside Dodgy Dock Lounge Bar and True Blue Restaurant. Located five minutes walk from Spice Island Marine Services and five minutes drive from the airport. Aquanauts Dive Center Indigo Car Rentals & Horizon Yacht ChartersVHF Channel 16 473 443 8783 mail@truebluebay.com www.truebluebay.com „Continued from previous page (This is also seen in such areas in Trinidad as Point Gourde on the northwestern coast.) This is all that is left of these roads. Most of the verges have been taken over by shrubs and short vegetation. The only maintained road leads to the lighthouse, which is functioning. One road takes you past a natural wonder of the island: the salt pond. Many of the smaller islands in the Lesser Antilles, such as St. Kitts and Anguilla, have numerous salt ponds; however, this is the only place you will find one in Trinidad & Tobago. Most of Chacachacares vegetation is desert-type. There are also vultures, and it is common to see a vulture sitting on a cactus or on old electricity lines, adding to the ghost-town atmosphere. To me, this is part of the fascination of the island. After hiking, enjoy a swim on one of the beaches. Many are shallow for many metres before ending in a sharp drop, perfect for people who cannot swim or just want to laze in the sea. So, whether you are a visitor or a local of our shores, if you get the urge to visit a ghost town, why not try our Caribbean version? GETTING THERESounds good so far? But how do you get to this island? For locals and land-based visitors, the usual way is by water taxi. This can be expensive, but the larger the group, the lower the cost per person. On my visits to Chacachacare, we have docked at the small jetty at the Nuns Quarters at Marine Bay and the larger jetty at Sanders Bay. You can also sail to Chacachacare in your own boat. Its about five miles from the yachting centre of Chaguaramas to the island. There are four or five anchorages in Chacachacare Bay. According to Chris Doyles Cruising Guide to Trinidad and Tobago (third edition): Chacachacare Bay offers excellent cruising.ƒ The wind tends to blow from either the southeast or the northeast, so one side is often more protected and you have to be prepared for a change in wind direction. The bay is very deep, and when it shelves it does so rapidly. The distance between anchoring depth and aground may be less than 100 feet. Therefore it pays to approach any anchorage cautiouslyƒ. Sanders Bay probably offers the best all-round anchorage.Ž Above: What attracted me was that it is a huge ghost townƒ Below: Except for the small, well-kept one near the nuns quarters, the cemeteries are covered with vegetation CONNELLY-LYNN SEWLAL CRUISING GUIDE PUBLICATIONS

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FEBRUARY 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 28 DOCK, BAR&RESTAURANTOpen 7/7 VHF: 16/68€ deep water stern-to berth € water/ice/laundry € tel+fax+internet € gas stationCUSTOMS CLEARANCETel: (+) 596 596 66 05 45gas station: (+) 596 596 66 17 30e-mail: leponton@wanadoo.fr1433N 6103WPOINTE DU BOUT, MARTINIQUE THE SPECIALIST FOR BOAT MAINTENANCE IN MARTINIQUE Centre de Carenage 97290 Le MarinTel: +596 (0) 596 74 74 80 Fax: +596 (0) 596 74 79 16 carene.shop@wanadoo.fr Zinc Anodes Plumbing Marine Paints Batteries Epoxy Antifouling Le Marin Think Mustique and most peoples minds will turn to the rich and famous. However, as the other Grenadine islands get taken over by a land-selling and house-building frenzy, Mustique might soon be better known as one of the least spoilt and most natural of the Grenadine islands; a place where you can hike or bike or wander in peace „ through an often wild landscape. The Mustique Company, which manages the island, is owned by the landowners, who have decided to limit the number of houses outside Lovell Village to 90. By limiting the supply of houses, they have shown that you can not only preserve the environment but do well in real estate. House prices there are not in millions of dollars, but in tens of millions of dollars. Luckily, yachting visitors are welcome to wander the roads and use the trails, a welcome difference from some newer and brasher developments that use keep outŽ signs and guardhouses to stop you getting anywhere on the property. Yachtspeople would do well to suppress any groupie tendencies that might incline them to search for the rich and famous and instead take advantage of some the great trails in the conservation areas. The wonderful thing is that you can start right from the anchorage at Britannia Bay and walk to beautiful, undeveloped places. The following will help you find your way. The Salt Pond Trail (45 minutes to an hour) Our first exploration led us southward along the shore. We soon left the spanking new road and found ourselves on a coastal pathway with palms and beach. There comes a point at which the salt pond almost touches the beach. Here we found ourselves on the salt pond trail, which goes right round the lagoon. A side trail leads to a cute observation blind with seats and windows, where you can hang out with binoculars and identify any birds. (We did not have our binoculars, but we saw a fine gecko inside on the ceiling.) The path emerges in Lagoon Bay with a perfect swimming beach. We continued east along Lagoon Bay to the roadway where the trail starts again round the east and north side of the pond. Way back through the mangroves you catch glimpses of the Mustico work buildings. This helped with orientation on our next days walk. A clearing allowed us to see sandpipers and a whimbrel. They have several signs on trees so you can add black, white, and button mangrove to the red mangrove you probably already know. East Coast Hike (three to three and half hours). The next morning we set out on a more ambitious hike that would cover the southern and wildest third of the island. We left the boat at 0715 hours, and would not have wanted to start out later as, by the time we got back, the day was getting hot. The first part was on road; it was shady and cool, and we saw our first red-legged tortoise of the day ambling along the roadside. We followed the road south back towards Lagoon Bay, but this time stayed on the road rather than following the beach, which meant going one block east. After 20 minutes or so, there comes a point as you get close to the salt pond, where you see first a works driveway on your right, and the road down to Lagoon Bay. At this point the road goes uphill and has two gateposts in either side „ uphill past the posts is the way to go. If you stay on the main road, it is hard to go wrong until you come to a sharp left turn. On the corner of this turn is a concrete shed and a cattle grid goes across the road. Turn left here. If you fail to do this, you will come to Obsidian House; an indication you have missed it. It is uphill again, but early in the morning, it is shady and cool. You come to a big house on your right. Here you have a choice of roads: take the less obvious right fork, which is a dirt road. This leads to Obsidian Bay where there is a sign that says conservation area.Ž It took us about 45 minutes to walk to this point, including time for getting lost and taking plenty of photos. From here we followed the remains of an old road over to the east coast and headed north along the trail. It is very wild and beautiful, with hundreds of barrel cactus and small plants bent to the wind. Tortoises became so commonplace that we stopped photographing them. The trail is poorly marked and we went astray several times, but often we could see a bit of trail ahead and figured out how to rejoin it. We followed a false trail right down to the coast close by Wilks Island and had to cut back inland to get back on the real thing. „Continued on next page MUSTIQUE TRAILWAYSYou can start from the anchorage at Britannia Bay and walk to beautiful, undeveloped places

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FEBRUARY 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 29 Icom VHF Garmin GPS Accessories Leatherman Penn Reels Penn Parts Penn Service and repair Phone/Fax: 784 458 3360 wallco@caribsurf.comSome people call us the most interesting shop in the Caribbean.Ž Wander around. You will find things you have been seeking for ages. We offer a wide range of hardware as well as necessary accessories and spares. Looking for a table hinge, a hatch spring, or a ladder? Come to us and get the right screws with it one time. Want to catch fish? Get a simple hand line with a lure just right for the speed of your boat, or go for a rod and reel to help you win the next fishing tournament. We take pride in sharing our expertise with you because we want YOU to succeed. Diving or snorkeling? We have it all: suits, tanks, belts, masks, fins and snorkels. We even have prescription lenses for the masks. Electronics, marine electronics, 12 & 24 volts, inverters, lights, sockets, navigation, charts, guides, marine hardware, blocks, cleats, SS fasteners, rope, Spectra, pumps, hoses, complete diving, snorkeling and fishing gear.The ONLY Duty Free Chandlery in Bequia Hablamos EspañolNous parlons FrançaisWir sprechen Deutsch „Continued from previous page At the headland just before Pasture Bay, we failed to find a coastal path over the headland (if there is one), and found ourselves instead climbing a well-made path back to the road. We were happy about this, because just as we saw the road, we also saw another trail that led back down to a roofed seating shelter with a perfect view of Pasture Bay. An excellent shady trail led us from this shelter down to the beach. We had now been walking two and a half hours, and my original plan was to continue along the beach and over the headland to Macaroni Bay, which is great for swimming. (You cannot swim in Pasture Bay as the currents are too strong.) But even at this time of the morning, the sun was heating up and we decided instead to head west on the shady roads over the center of the island back to Britannia Bay. We were back in time to buy Marannes Ice Cream at the coffee shop. There are other trails in the northeast of Mustique that I have not explored, but they are on my to doŽ list. Below: The red-legged tortoise is Mustiques unofficial mascot

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FEBRUARY 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 30 ENGINES(DUTY FREE PRICES)SPARES SERVICE MARINE EQUIPMENTLocated CALLIAQUA, St. Vincent opposite Howards MarineTEL: (784) 457 1806 FAX: (784) 456 1364 E-mail: kpmarine@caribsurf.com P.O. Box 17, Kingstown PAIE LTDY AMAHA MA R INE DISTRIBUTORKMRN Every sailor caters to good luck by keeping all boat systems in good condition and the radio and cell phone charged and ready. We all should practice safety by wearing harnesses when out on deck and having life jackets and fire extinguishers at the ready. Also it is for good reason that friends should know our itinerary when making passages, should we go lost. But what if bad luck hits, something happens at sea or ashore, and no one knows where we are? If medical assistance is required, do you know a doctor? Will insurance help? There are times when bad luck can actually be good. Better the halyard sticks going up rather than coming down. Better the engine doesnt start when youre anchored at a crowded harbor with mechanics available. I never believed in insurance. My Sea Cow is unsinkable, as my many instances of negligence have proven. Life insurance is another sure bad bet, as no one benefits from their own policy, but it makes life easier for a surviving few. Then theres health insurance. Who can afford that? Would it really put me in good hands when I needed them? Then there are friends. Having good friends has been my best insurance. This isnt really about insurance or accidents, but about Trinidad, a very good place to find friends. My serious bad luck started with Hurricane Lenny in 1999. The old Sea Cow took severe licks hooked behind the not-so-protective Sandy Island of Carriacou. After weathering the reverse seas I needed a proper boatyard. Tyrell Bay didnt really seem to have an operating one then, St. Davids in Grenada was too remote, and at that time Spice Island was too cramped. I turned south for Chaguaramas and IMS (Industrial Marine Services). As perhaps a premonition,the Sea Cow stalled entering the Bocas. Its Perkins had only cut out once before, from water in the fuel. Not knowing the tides and currents, I frantically bled the injectors, sent flares as fishing vessels passed, and called the Coasties. All I got was nauseous. Then she started as if of her own mind. Sea Cow was on the hard at IMS the same day. That was the seventh of December and every mechanical and cosmetic repair was completed in just ten days. It was the holiday season and I didnt know anyone in Trinidad. As soon as a new zinc came for my prop shaft, I planned to head back to buddies in Prickly Bay, Grenada, and then on to Old Years Night at Basils Bar in Mustique. It was late afternoon on Saturday, one week before Christmas. I rented a ten-year old Nissan Sentra for the weekend to tour around Trinidad. It was a dusky five in the afternoon and Western Main Road was empty as I turned into Tropical Marine. I awakened in Port of Spain Hospital. I didnt know what happened. I didnt know that Trini drivers are great at overtaking cars making signaled turns. My right shoulder was dislocated. A later look showed the Sentra had saved my life. The seat belt did its job better than my shoulder. If I had literally been two seconds further into the turn it would have been gonzo for Ralph. I was stretchered on the hospital floor, a spotless floor. After the nurse told me Id been in an auto accident, I explained I was seemingly in shock as I had no pain, but it would come. She returned with a syringe of Darvon and I joked that that was for womens monthlies. It was then that nurse put my life at that moment in perfect perspective. Sir, you are in the Third World. You will take what I give you.Ž Being a tourist, I expect I got preferential treatment and within an hour I had X-rays and then was wheeled to a room with two doctors, a man and a woman. The man explained my right arm had serious problems and repair would require a specialist. They then set my shoulder and sent me on my way. Absolutely no charge! Socialized health care got my immediate vote. Then I realized all of my papers were in my rucksack stowed in the trunk of the now smashed rental car. All my engine oil, filters, and spares were also in there. Oh well, that all could be sorted out „ the least of my worries. „Continued on next page Bad Luck in a Great Place Part OneBy Ralph Trout Above: Folks like Tanty Elsie are a major reason why I fell in love with Trinidad Left: Calypso King of the World, the Mighty Sparrow, at the Mas Camp Pub in Port of Spain during last years Carnival YAMAHAParts Repairs Service Outboard Engines 2HP-250HP Duty-Free Engines for Yachts McIntyreBros. Ltd.TRUE BLUE, ST. GEORGES, GRENADA W.I. PHONE: (473) 444 3944/1555 FAX: (473) 444 2899 email: macford@caribsurf.com TOURS & CRUISES CAR & JEEP RENTAL

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FEBRUARY 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 31 „Continued from previous page After a painful, restless night I went to Sinclair Private Nursing Facility and the doctor there said nothing could be done to repair the damaged tendons holding the shoulder joint together. I did get a better pain prescription. The following evening, the police from the Carenage Station requested I make a formal statement as to what I remembered about the accident. I walked with my right arm in a sling to and from that police station after dark without any hassles. That probably wouldnt happen in todays Trinidad. The father of the young driver who hit me was also there and said the accident was my fault since as a foreigner I had no right to be on Trinidad roads. Liability started to raise its head. The rental car sat, bent and irreparable, at the stations gate. Then the car rental company actually tore up my credit card slip so I didnt owe them anything. I tried to move the light aluminum ladder resting alongside the Cow and pulled my shoulder out of joint. In a grimacing maneuver à la Mel Gibson in Lethal Weapon 1 , I pushed it back into place against my boat. I knew with certainty that unless my shoulder got some magic, my boating days were finished and life as I knew it would change dramatically. If I couldnt hold a ladder, I couldnt reel in a fish, pull an anchor, or lift a dive tank. I didnt know a doctor anywhere, in the islands or stateside. My shoulder needed specialized attention, yet that was probably not affordable. Then came the friends. I returned to Tropical Marine and re-met Mike Lancer, the man I was told had pulled me from the wreck. We had previously played some pool at Tropicals Wheelhouse Saloon along with his brother Mark, and fellow fisherman Derick. Another cruiser at the dock had my rucksack and told me who was holding my box of parts and oil. Everything was returned with smiles of pleasure that I had actually survived the accident. Again, the Caribbeans rule of, Its not who you know, but who you drink withŽ came into action. While sucking down some libations, Mike Lancers father, John, the owner of Tropical Marine, put me on to Trinidads foremost orthopedic surgeon, Dr. Louisang, who was also an avid fisherman. The Doctor said he could bring back my arm, but it would take an operation and at least three months of recuperation. It worked, with no scar. Three months went on to five before my shoulder tendons were healed enough that the screw implanted in my shoulder could be removed. The doctor laughed when I said I wanted the screw. Probably so cheap a yachtie youre going to reuse it on your boat,Ž he said. No,Ž I told him. As Ive never married, this is the most expensive screw of my life!Ž Actually my total Trinidad physical repairs, with apartment rental, came to less than US$3,000! My arm was almost as good as new. The Cow would sail again! In those five months I fell in love with Trinidad. For good reasons, I had to rent an apartment away from the toxic boatyard environment. Maxi drivers would drop their hire sign and take me directly to my doctors office. I tried to walk everywhere and met with no problems. No one tried to take advantage of my condition. I became a regular at Jennys Wok Friday limes and Smokey and Buntys, and knew every one of the many green spaces Port of Spain has to offer. The Savannah, with the more-than-adequate zoo, botanical gardens, art and history museum, coconut water, and shark-and-bakes, occupied many afternoons. Once my arm healed, I rented cars and headed to the end of every road on the island as none go all the way round Trinidad. Through another quirk of fate, I got referred to probably the only Trinidad attorney who would handle my accident/insurance claim on contingency. Those tall buildings in Port of Spain werent built because insurance companies easily pay claims. I won the case after two and a half years. (But to get the settlement in arbitration I have to return for court sessions twice a year, for four years so far!) Next month: In Trinidad today. And yes, Trinidad does have palm trees and beaches, tooƒ

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FEBRUARY 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 32 CHRIS DOYLE'S GUIDESCheck out the features that make them the Caribbean's best sellers!Full Color sketch charts Aerial and scenic color photography Up-do-date, lively and relevant text Downloadable waypoints & updates on the web at www.doyleguides.comHave you got the latest Venezuela guide yet?Ž All the info you need if you are planning a cruise! Crossing the channels between Caribbean islands with a favorable tide will make your passage faster and more comfortable. The table below, courtesy Don Street, author of Streets Guides and compiler of Imray-Iolaire charts, which shows the time of the meridian passage (or zenith) of the moon for this and next month, will help you calculate the tides. Water, Don explains, generally tries to run toward the moon. The tide starts running to the east soon after moonrise, continues to run east until about an hour after the moon reaches its zenith (see TIME below) and then runs westward. From just after the moons setting to just after its nadir, the tide runs eastward; and from just after its nadir to soon after its rising, the tide runs westward. Times given are local. Note: the maximum tide is 3 or 4 days after the new and full moons. For more information, see Tides and CurrentsŽ on the back of all Imray Iolaire charts. Fair tides! MERIDIAN PASSAGE OF THE MOONFEBRUARY & MARCH 2008 February 2008 DATETIME 10723 20814 30907 41000 51053 61153(new) 71232 81320 91406 101453 111541 121632 131737 141825 151927 162029 172130 182226 192319 200000(full) 212342 220000 230007 240057 250135 260217 270259 280342 290427 March 2008 DATETIME 10656 20748 30841 40932 51022 61110 71158(new) 81246 91335 101426 111521 121620 131721 141823 151924 162021 172123 182202 192247 202330 210000(full) 220012 230054 240136 250221 260307 270356 280447 290539 300630 310721My husband and I have been sailing on our 37-foot catamaran, Jacumba , for one year now, which leads to a little introspection. One reason I wanted to become a cruiser was to experience the camaraderie of other boaters, something I had read so much about. Im a native New Yorker and had gotten used to the anonymity that came with living there. I wanted to make friends when I moved to Arizona but in 13 years, the only thing I learned about my neighbors was what kind of car they drove. Thats all I ever saw of them, quietly slipping into and out of their garages. After more than a decade, I still knew no one outside my work circle. So when my husband and I decided it was time for a break from the usual and bought a boat, I had great expectations of being drawn into a tight-knit community. We had a strong desire to establish connections that could only be created between people experiencing similar adversities and adventures. After one year out on the seas, I can happily say that I have not been disappointed. When money was tight, boaters brought us leftovers and gave us canned goods they knew theyd never eat. When we had a close call during a rageŽ in the Bahamas and questioned our right to be out here in this dangerous place, cruisers rallied, lifting our spirits and guaranteeing us that our confidence and skill would only grow if we persevered. When we were hemming and hawing about where we should spend hurricane season and getting the cold feet that lots of other boaters get, in Georgetown, Bahamas (also called chicken harborŽ for that very reason), pals on a trawler pushed us to head south, a decision weve never regretted. Whats been really interesting though, is how often we see the same boats over and over. Or how we meet other cruisers simply through relationships we already have. A typical example of this happened to us recently. While in Little Harbour, Bahamas, we met a couple on Fine Line. Although we were in the anchorage together only a short time, we continued to e-mail and read each others blogs in order to keep tabs on each others whereabouts. While we were in the British Virgin Islands, Anne on Fine Line told us to look out for friends of theirs on Appleseeds, Eileen and Peter. During an overnight motorsail to St. Martin, we heard Appleseeds being hailed on the VHF and were pleased to discover that they too were on their way to Marigot. We sought them out after a couple of days and introduced ourselves and talked about our connection. We told them where we had been and they wondered if we had crossed paths with Merengue . Merengue ?! We love those guys! So now we had something else in common. We were then generously invited to meet up with them and other boaters who were trying to catch a bus to Philipsburg and watch a parade. While we were waiting at the dock, we saw another couple that looked familiar and realized that we had helped them when their dinghy engine conked out in Salinas, Puerto Rico. What were the chances? Turned out they were part of the crowd going to the parade, so now we were going to get to know them better. Folks from two other boats rounded out the troop and we had a new group of friends with whom we could explore and share stories. Whats truly wonderful is that no matter what we do for each other „ dinghy tows, boat repairs, assistance during a drag „ no one expects anything in return other than that we help someone else in the future. Ive met more people in a year of sailing than I have in my past 42 years on land. Ive had my faith in humankind renewed over and over again. And you cant deny that the six degrees of separationŽ appears to be a true phenomenon, at least in the world of cruising, although I havent seen Kevin Bacon out here yet. THIS CRUISING LIFE ITS A SmallWORLDby Renee Petrillo Just one year out, we have a group of new friends with whom we can explore and share stories. We love these guys!

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FEBRUARY 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 33 frangipaniBequiaHOTEL €RESTAURANT €BARTel: (784) 458-3255 Fax: (784) 458-3824 E-mail: reservations@frangipanibequia.com Website: www.frangipanibequia.comDont miss our famous barbecue and jump upThursday nights!the SERVICES Mechanics and Electricity Boat Maintenance Engine diagnosis Breakdown service 24/7 Haulout and hull sand blasting Equipment for rent Technical shop GOODS Genuine parts Yanmar & Tohatsu Basic spare parts (filters, impellers, belts)Filtration FLEETGUARD Anodes,Shaft bearings Electric parts, batteries Primers and Antifouling International Various lubricants FOR RENT High pressure cleaners 150/250bars Electrical tools Diverse hand tools Vacuum cleaner for water ScaffoldingTOHATSU LEAVE YOUR BOAT IN SKILLED HANDS Phone: +590 590 907 137 Fax: +590 590 908 651 E-mail: fredmarine@wanadoo.fr Marina Point a Pitre 97110 Guadeloupe F.W.I.SALES REPAIRS MAINTENTENANCE MARINE MECHANICS (ALL MAKES) HAUL OUT 24h BREAKDOWN SERVICE „Continued from page 15 ƒRegatta News The BVI Spring Regatta is another huge event with plenty of Heineken in evidence. This year, the dates for this regatta are April 3rd through 6th. The legendary Antigua Sailing Week (April 27th through May 3rd, 2008) also has Heineken as a sponsor, as does the Puerto Rico Heineken Regatta. Somewhat smaller events, such as the Bequia Easter Regatta [ see ad on page 14 ], also enjoy Heineken sponsorship. And the Aruba Heineken Regatta, which has been going on for 18 years, continues to push the envelope in catamaran racing. This year, their regatta will be held on November 13th through 21st. Over the years, many of these regattas have changed from small local races to large international sailing events, resulting in visitor investment in many of the Caribbean islands economies. Next Budget Marine Commodores Cup, St. Maarten Last year was the first year that the Budget Marine Commodores Cup (BMCC) was added to the St. Maarten Heineken Regatta. It was a huge success, with 58 entries. It was easily won by the Volvo 70 ABN AMRO who shocked everyone with her speed as well as the sailing abilities of her crew. The rest of the fleet enjoyed tight racing with close results. Budget Marine is pleased to be the title sponsor of this added day and invites all eligible to participate this year on Thursday, March 6th, the day before the start of the St. Maarten Heineken Regatta, creating an extra day of racing for the spinnaker classes. The difference in the extra day lies in the courses. The usual format at the regatta is for courses raced along the coast to a destination, or all the way around the island. During the BMCC, the courses will be windward-leeward courses, always much more competitive for the hard-core racers. To sign up for the Budget Marine Commodores Cup and the Heineken Regatta visit www.heinekenregatta.com IRC Splash for Rolex Regatta, St. Thomas, USVI The Notice of Race and on-line entry forms for this years regatta (March 28th through 30th) are now available at www.rolexcupregatta.com. (Entries before March 6th avoid a late fee!) The website also has helpful travel information such as lodging options in St. Thomas, and passport and visa needs. IRC will make a big splash in the Caribbean this year. The International Rolex Regatta joins the Presidente Cup and BVI Spring Regatta in offering IRC and CSA classes. These three events make up the southern circuit of the hotly contested 2008 US-IRC Gulf Stream Series (GSS: www.yachtscoring.com). John Sweeney, co-director of the International Rolex Regatta claims, There will be competitive racing under both the IRC and CSA rules. With the addition of IRC for 2008 we are encouraging a larger international fleet. Weve had positive feedback from both Stateside and European boats.Ž Dockage for the deeper-draft IRC boats can now be accommodated by the new Yacht Haven Grande in Charlotte Amalie (www.yachthavengrande.com). Sweeney added that the International Rolex Regatta caters not only to the handicapped racing yachts, but also to Beach Cats and one-design sailboats 24 feet and longer „ the most popular being the home-grown IC24 fleet, which always has an impressive turnout. The regattas popularity is attributable to its professional race management, dependable trade winds and varied and challenging schedule of races, including a mix of round-the-buoys and round-theislands courses that make for serious competition,Ž said Sweeney. After racing, beachside social activities blend St. Thomas Yacht Clubs island-style hospitality with the outstanding camaraderie that hundreds of participants have come to expect each year. For information on the regatta, visit www.rolexcupregatta.com or contact Co-Director Bill Canfield at styc@vipowernet.net or phone (340) 775-6320. For more information on the US-IRC and CSA, visit www.us-irc.org and www.caribbean-sailing.com. Combined Virgin Islands Race Week Giving sailors and their families another good reason to put the International Rolex Regatta on their holiday calendar is the opportunity to participate in the inaugural Virgin Islands Race Week, presented by the US Virgin Islands Department of Tourism. VI Race Week bridges the International Rolex Regatta (March 28th through 30th) in St. Thomas, USVI, with the BVI Spring Regatta & Sailing Festival (March 31st through April 6th), hosted out of Tortola and Virgin Gorda, creating a ten-day holidayŽ that offers both intense racing and quality family time. Sailors can customize their vacations by mixing and matching hard-core racing, just-for-fun racing, and leisurely cruising with family activities such as shopping and golf outings on St. Thomas. There is no additional fee for entering, and prizes will be awarded to the top overall IRCand CSA-handicapped yachts competing. For more information contact Judy at judy@bvispringregatta.org.

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FEBRUARY 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 34 FEBRUARY 2008 ARIES (21 Mar 20 Apr) The month starts with a continuation of the romantic bad weather you slogged through last month. This should last into the third week when the sun will finally break through. TAURUS (21 Apr 21 May) The steady winds of romance will continue to fan the flames of your desires until the 18th when they will join your creativity on a downwind course. GEMINI (22 May 21 Jun) Although communication may be weak and full of static, your creativity will be strong „ especially in Weeks Two and Three when love sails in to give you a hand. CANCER (22 Jun 23 Jul) The squalls of the last week of December will continue until the 19th. Clearing weather will be a real relief after the rough seas of the last few weeks. LEO (24 Jul 23 Aug) Its always something! The contrary currents in creativity and communications you beat against last month will continue until the 19th, when squalls in your love life will take over. VIRGO (24 Aug 23 Sep) Business is still in the doldrums, so let your love life put some wind in your sails until the 18th. LIBRA (24 Sep 23 Oct) The island of romance will be an unattainable landfall until the 18th when your patience pays off and the winds of change bring success in your creative course. SCORPIO (24 Oct 22 Nov) Stay off the radio: whatever you say will have a tendency to come out wrong and throw you off course. But keep your radar on, as your romantic life will be on a collision course after the 18th. SAGITTARIUS (23 Nov 21 Dec) Business is still wishy-washy, so take this time to reinforce relationships with crew or cruising pals before the last week when even your love life takes a dive. CAPRICORN (22 Dec 20 Jan) Your sense of humor will assist in giving your business a lift. Good relationships with crew and boat buddies will help until the 18th, so find ways to make these aspects work for you. AQUARIUS(21 Jan 19 Feb) The vessel full of creative energy you sailed aboard last month will continue underway until the 19th. Romance will be right off its stern, sailing into your harbor of love. Enjoy. PISCES (20 Feb 20 Mar) Business will still be in the doldrums for the first two weeks. Attempts to stimulate some activity will be in vain and may cause counter-currents in the last week, so you might as well douse the sails and relax.Island Poets Crossword Solution ACROSS 5) SEACAT 7) GUMPUS 9) INCH 10) CAT 11) FLAT 12) WRASSE 13) NEEDLE 15) BAND 17) DOLPHIN 18) TANG 20) ALE 21) HERRING 22) KING 23) FLYING 27) ALBACORE 29) JELLY 31) BOATS 32) MINNOW 33) CARP DOWN 1) GAR 2) MACKEREL 3) PUFFER 4) CUTTLE 6) ANGELFISH 8) SAW 14) DOG 15) BARACUDA 16) EGGS 17) DEVIL 18) TUNA 19) TRIGGER 24) CAPT 25) DRUM 26) BLACK 28) MONK 30) PIPECarriacouMy island is a special place, A spot where I can slow the pace Of living, and absorb a life Thats free from worries, challenge, strife. Theres nothing here that can invade The sweet tranquility thats made From having lots of things to do, But nothing pressing, and if you Should choose to spend the hours just gazing At vistas which are quite amazing, Enjoy it! It sounds great to me, Bone idleness with conscience free. Having a willing friend to hand a Drink to me on the veranda, And if Im hot, why then I cool Myself down in the hillside pool. But, if perhaps I feel a surge Of energy, why I can splurge And walk the beach, or take a sail To nearby cays, which never fail To convince me that heaven is not As far away as once I thought! The negatives are there its true, And hurricanes have come which blew The sea into a wild, mad frenzy, And when it passed, no one would envy Us the task to clear away The devastation left, but hey! Good neighbors come and lend a hand To clear the debris, grit and sand. Life can be hard at times its true, But Ill spend mine in Carriacou!„ Nan Hatch Memories of FelixThe lagoon is flat. Not a ripple, not a whisper. The gray-green surface Reflecting the darkening sky. The sun has retreated, Sinking in the sea beyond the channel, As the rest of us wait; Thirty boats, their crews and the lagoon. Out of the darkness they come; At first, a breeze and a drizzle; Building to twenty knots, Building to a driving rain. The gathering gloom thickens, Twenty builds to thirty-five, Rain in blinding sheets Bombarding the empty decks. The banshee gusts spring from the dark, Whipping the lagoon into a froth, Blending it with the horizontal torrents, til the surface seems to disappear. The boat seems suspended, Adrift in a malevolent chaos, Direction is meaningless, Lost in the enveloping din. Anchor rode groan, rigging whines, Hulls dance to a hypnotic song, Hells gates open, its fury unleashed. My soul is frightened and cold. The new days dawn pierces the gloom As the raging storm moves off, Building its strength, on a westward heading, To haunt some other sailors dreams.„ John Rowland CANUTE CALLISTE

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FEBRUARY 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 35 CompassCruising Crossword FISHESACROSS5) Caribbean nickname for octopus 7) Fish that allows itself to be caught 9) Unit for measuring fish length 10) A ___fish has whiskers 11) ____ fishes include flounder and sole 12) Blueheaded is a common type of this 13) Shorter 30 Down fish 15) ____ or ribbon fish 17) _______ fish: dorado or mahi-mahi 18) Blue reef fish 20) ___ Wife or Old Wife 21) Northern fish, popularly served marinated 22) West Indian fish with no side bones 23) A ______ fish has wingsŽ 27) Type of 18 Down 29) A _____fish has no bones 31) Fishermens vehicles 32) Small bait fish 33) Large Asian ornamental pond fishDOWN1) Fish with green bones 2) Smaller version of 22 Across 3) A ______fish inflates itself when fearful 4) Squid bone 6) Large beautiful reef dweller 8) A rare fish related to sharks and rays 14) A _____fish is a type of shark 15) This toothy fish is alternatively spelled barracuda, barracouta, picuda, becuna or ________ 16) Some fish are born from ____ 17) Another name for 28 Down 18) Popular food fish 19) Large colorful reef fish resembling 6 Down 24) ____ fish: abbreviation for gurnard nickname 25) Grunt fish 26) Color of 15 Across or 25 Down 28) ____fish lives in a monastery? 30) You cant smoke this fish! „ Solution on page 34 1 23 4 56 7 89 10 11 1213 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 2425 26 27 28 2930 3132 33 Chain & Rope Anchors & Fenders Electric Wire Marine Hoses Bilge Pumps Lubricants & Oils Stainless Fasteners Stainless Fittings VHF Radios Flares & Life Jackets Snorkeling Equipment Fishing Gear Antifouling Paint Paint Brushes Epoxy Resins Sanding Paper & Discs Hand & Power Tools Houseware & CookwareFOR YOUR MARINE HARDWARE, AND MORE Johnson Hardware Ltd. Rodney Bay, St. Lucia Tel: ( 758 ) 452 0299 Fax: ( 758 ) 452 0311 e-mail: hardware@candw.lc ©Caribbean Compass 2008 parlumps maroonedPARLUMPS@HOTMAIL.COM Bela ToonBELA ALMEIDA

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FEBRUARY 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 36 Do you remember how much of the earth is covered with water? Oceans cover approximately 71 percent „ thats nearly three-quarters „ of the earths surface. Yet the importance of the oceans to life on earth has only recently been acknowledged. Last month, we looked at the November 2007 meeting in New Zealand of the scientists from the Census of Marine Life . At the end of that month, another important meeting was held, this time in South Africa when the members of GEO, the Group on Earth Observations , met for their annual conference. Lets look at the history of this group and its activities. In 2002, at the World Summit on Sustainable Development, it was recognized that it was very important to coordinate world-wide observations on the state of the Earth and its environment. Participants at the First, Second and Third Earth Observations Summits held in Washington, D.C. (2003), Tokyo (2004) and Brussels (2005) respectively, established a framework for a GEOSS, Global Earth Observation System of Systems . The GEO , which is a voluntary partnership of governments and international organizations, was formed to devise and then implement a ten-year action plan for the GEOSS . Representatives of over 70 countries and nearly 50 non-governmental organizations attended the 2007 GEO conference in Cape Town to discuss the progress of the plan. It focuses on nine areas: disasters, health, energy, climate, water, weather, ecosystems, agriculture and biodiversity. One of the organizations involved in GEO is the Partnership for Observation of the Global Oceans . The idea for POGO was first raised in 1999 when the directors of several oceanography institutions around the world met and discussed how to coordinate efforts to study the marine environment. New technologies were becoming available to monitor marine systems more closely. The information collected could be used to predict changes in weather and sea patterns that may adversely affect human beings, as well as those that can improve human health, wealth and safety. Temperature changes in the sea, over-fishing and pollution are all issues that can be investigated through global observation systems. At the end of the GEO meeting, participants issued the Cape Town declaration. This noted the achievements already made by its members and confirmed their commitment to further work. They also resolved to meet again by 2010 to review their progress and to ensure implementation of the GEOSS plan. GUESS WHAT? The following acronyms belong to some of the organizations in partnership with POGO. Can you guess what the initials stand for? 1)CoML 2)GOOS 3)IGOS 4)IOC 5)IODE 6)IOTWS 7)MIA 8)OOPC 9)SCOR 10)WMO Answers on page 47 PROUDLY SPONSORED BY PETIT ST. VINCENT RESORT Hello!MynameisDollyandmyhomeisinthesea.DOLLYS DEEP SECRETSby Elaine Ollivierre CRUISING KIDS CORNER O lors, Ernie, yo shoulda seen de body jump!Ž Trevor, who lives in the mountainous island of St. Lucia, was visiting his cousin Ernie over in Barbados by the wild Atlantic coast, just up the ridge from Sweet Bottom. As a special Christmas treat Trevors parents had packed him off for Christmas and the New Year. There was so much to do in Barbados, so many wonderful adventures to go on, that at first, Trevor and Ernie had forgotten all about that dreadful earthquake that had struck the Caribbean islands in November. But now, when things had settled down a bit, the two boys had started to tell each other scary stories when they had been sent to bed and the lights were out. Ernies little sister Nyna could hear them whispering together because her bedroom was right next to theirs and she wished she were a boy and could join in all their adventures. As it was, they wouldnt let her near their room and ran off whenever she tried to join in their games. Its not fair!Ž Nyna complained to her mother, Josephina. And as for her father, Solly, he just picked her up, put her on his knee and told her he much preferred his little princess to all the boys in Barbados! Now, before Trevor got to this spooky part of the story, he had to explain to Ernie all about the funeral. He had to start off with explaining to Ernie how the chapel was built on top of the Morne and then he had to explain that the Morne was right behind the city of Castries. Castries surround by hills!Ž Trevor boasted, but de Morne is high high much higher dan here. It so high dat two tunnels running under it and you shoulda hear de noise of de cars an trucks gon thrum, thrum as dey wheels hit de concrete.Ž Ernie could only sigh and hope that one day his parents would send him over to St. Lucia to stay with his big city cousin. Trevor then boasted that of course everyone in St. Lucia had felt the earthquake much more than in Barbados because his island is so mountainous and Barbados is so flat „ well, all except for those high hills and cliffs above Sweet Bottom. Trevor didnt know whether he was right saying this about the earthquake and who felt what, but it sounded good and Ernie wouldnt know anyway. So, there they were, he and his father attending the funeral of a distant uncle in the big, tall chapel on top of the Morne. As usual the coffin was placed in front of the altar and as usual the coffin was open. Trevor took great pains in describing to Ernie how the uncle in the coffin was dressed up in his best dark blue suit. He have clean white shirt, stiff collar and black tie about he neck, so tight he mus feel pressure fo so. He even have shoe on and white sock and de shoes polish bright bright. But yo shoulda seen de face! It powder bright orange and de lips bright purple and de eyes closed with copper penny to stop de evil eye from getting yo.Ž Ooh, Trevor, wish I does been there!Ž We all look serious, serious an den de chapel begin to shake! Oh, de fella next we shout, dis man be strong, strong! He fight like crazy to stop we bury he! Next ting shaking be worse and every man an woman an chile run out de chapel. I go follow but me fadder grab me shoulda and shout, Why you does run? Dis be de house of de Lord! God protect we! And den big big rumble and shaking so bad de chapel walls sway and bend and den de body does start jumping up, trying to get out de coffin and run like all de rest. But me fadder grab hold de body and force it back where it belong and he pray all de time, Oh Lord, keep dis brother from hell fire. Take yo servant on high. There be second big big rumble and crash goes all de ting on de altar, de cross, de chalice, de candles, de book and de pews does dance round and crash over and I does stand frighten so and me fadder hold dat body down with all he strength, calling pon de Lord to protect us poor sinners. More shaking den little little and me fadder straighten he uncle in he coffin, pull he suit proper, straighten de legs, wipe de shoes, pull de necktie tight and make all neat and proper. Then he hold me hand and we find we car and drive home.Ž By this time, Trevor was so excited that his whisper had turned to a shout and the next thing Uncle Solly had thrown open the door and told them not another word or he would send Trevor back home. Aunt Josephina was huffing in their bedroom down the hall and little sister Nyna was all ears and big eyes in her moonlit room. Trevor and Ernie slunk down in their beds and once Uncle Sollys door closed with a thud, Ernie lent over to Trevor, touched him on the shoulder and whispered: That story worse dan de coffins flung all round de vault up dere in de churchyard of Christchurch. Boy, just yo wait till night come round agen, yo hair gon stand on end!Ž And Ernie grinned at the thought that he had a cool cool spooky story to tell his cousin Trevor that would shut him up for good. THE ENDTrevor and theEarthquakeby Lee Kessell Day Skipper & YachtmasterShore Based Courses over 8 Days in BequiaStarts Monday 3rd Dec 2007 until 14th April 2008 Cost 1900$ECJohn Cawsey,Yachtmaster, Instructor Write John c/o Jean Webb PO Box 30, Port Elizabeth, Bequia or phone(784) 457-3623 or text 0780 781 3123 with your phone number

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FEBRUARY 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 37PICK UP! Ahoy, Compass Readers! When in Bequia, pick up your free monthly copy of the Caribbean Compass at any of these locations (advertisers in this issue appear in bold ): Bequia Bookshop Bequia Post Office Bequia Tourism Assn. Dawns Beach Café De Reef Restaurant Doris Fresh Food Frangipani Hotel Friendship Rose Office Grenadine Sails GYE Lulleys Tackle Macs Pizzeria Max Marine PortHole Restaurant Salty DogRestaurant Tradewinds Cruise Club W&W Supermarket Wallace & Co. GRENADINES SAILS & CANVASBEQUIACome in and see us for all your SAILS & CANVAS needs including CUSTOM-MADE stainless steel BIMINI & DODGER frames at competitive pricesLocated opposite G.Y.E. (northern side of Admiralty Bay) Tel (784) 457-3507 / 457-3527 (evenings) e-mail: gsails@vincysurf.com VHF Ch16/68 REPRESENTATIVE LULLEYS TACKLE SHOPFISHING & DIVING GEAR DUTY FREETEL: (784) 458-3420 FAX: (784) 458-3797 EMAIL: lulley@caribsurf.comOur stock, quality, price, know-how and fishing experience is unsurpassedVisit us for all your needsFRONT STREET BEQUIA WEST INDIESSERVING FISHERMEN AND YACHTSPEOPLE SINCE 1950Penn & Diawa Rods & Reels Mustad Hooks Anglers Lures Rigged & Unrigged Leaders Fresh Bait Foul Weather Gear Snorkeling & Diving Gear Courtesy Flags Collectable KnivesYOUR #1 CHOICE IN FISHING GEARWire, Floats, Nets, Twines, Ropes Children's Tale of a Family SailAway to Bequia , written by June Stoute, illustrated by Jehanne Silva-Freimane. © 2007. Published by Oraef Inc. Full color. ISBN 976 8215 86 0. Barbadian writer June Stoute is no stranger to Bequia. She and her husband, amateur racing sailor Dick Stoute, have been cruising the Grenadines for many years on their yacht, Shangri-La . June has been shore crew while Dick, a familiar face on the racing circuit, has crewed with fellow Bajan sailor Andrew Burke on Nefertiti, Bruggadung I and Bruggadung II , and with Carriacou-based Jerry Stewart on his Bloody Mary . June Stoute describes herself as a business executive by day and a creative writer, publisher and photographer after hours. She wet her feet in the book industry in 2000 by publishing her husbands book, The Fear Factor . In December 2006 she moved front stage with her own work, an illustrated childrens book, Would You Please Fetch Me A Pail? For this she teamed up with her daughter, Jehanne SilvaFreimane, who illustrated the story. This was followed in April 2007 by Giant African Land Snails + Snail Facts . At last years National Independence Festival of Creative Arts (NIFCA) in Bridgetown, Barbados, Stoute received a Bronze Award for Would You Please Fetch Me A Pail? and a Silver Award for Giant African Land Snails + Snail Facts . Stoute believes she has the ingredients for a Gold in Away To Bequia . Stoute has been successful in several local literary competitions over the years and her poetry has been published in the University of the West Indies Cave Hill Literary Annual. Away To Bequia is the story of young Rogers first inter-island crossing „ a trip which turns into a voyage of discovery and wonder when his grandfather sets a course towards the setting sun. Bequian book reviewer Cherian Gordon writes about Away to Bequia : There have been many great storybooks written from yesteryear to this present day. Of the many I have read, I must say that this one isnt just great „ its amazing. From its beautifully written words to its vibrant pictures, everything blends uniquely to form a vast image of the whole adventure in the readers mind. You can see, feel, hear and even smell all the exotic textures in the story. The eccentric flow of rhythm and rhyme cultivates a cascade of poetic Caribbean flavor, when every word is read. The most amazing thing about the story, though, is that it is a family adventure and though today such a thing is dwindling rapidly, this writer depicts its beauty as though it happens every day. As a true Bequian, I salute June Stoute for basing this adventure as a family expedition to my blessed home and I would recommend that it be read by all children. Available at bookstores or from the author at jestoute@sunbeach.net. Bequia MarinaOpen Monday to Saturday 8:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m.Look for the Big Blue Building and ask for Stan or Miguel! Water, Diesel, Ice, Bottled Water and Dockage available. The Yacht Club, Bequia Marina, Port Elizabeth, Bequia, St. Vincent & The Grenadines VHF 68; Telephone 784-457-3361

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FEBRUARY 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 38DIRECT(ORY) FROM GUADELOUPE!Guadeloupe Marine Info 2008 „ the Guadeloupe Nautical Directory. Edited by Club Transcaraibes Association, Stéphane Legendre. Paperback, 163 pages, full color throughout. Free. Neither a cruising guide nor a tourist guide, this handy and well-researched reference „ available in both print and online (www.guadeloupemarine.info) versions „ gathers in one place a wealth of information for sailors and other watersports enthusiasts about the archipelago of Guadeloupe. Both versions are bi-lingual (French and English), with a different font used for each in the print version for quick orientation. There are five chapters: General Information, Practical Information, Flora and Fauna, Nautical Information and a Directory (organized by trade). The chapters in the print version are color coded for easy reference. Of particular interest to cruisers will be the sections on clearing in and out, pets on board, marina services, bridge opening times on the Rivière Salée, weather forecasts and provisioning. There is also a calendar of the islands nautical events. A unique feature is a section introducing key personalities in Guadeloupes sailing and watersports sector; if you spot one of these faces on the beach or on the dock, youll know who it is! Color photos, especially those in the Flora and Fauna chapter, are a plus, as are the useful island, town and marina maps. A separate page listing emergency phone numbers and radio frequencies could be pulled out and posted aboard. The book is small enough to carry ashore. Best of all, its free. Pick up a copy in Guadeloupe or visit www.guadeloupe-marine.info. St. Lucias Environmental ArtistLlewellyn Xavier: His Life and Work, series editor Edward Lucie-Smith, Macmillan Caibbean Art Collection. Hard cover, 208 pages, full color throughout. ISBN 978-4050-8649-3. Llewellyn Xavier is St. Lucias pre-eminent visual artist, known worldwide for strong conceptual work that has explored such issues as race, sex, spirituality, and the environment. A new retrospective of work by Xavier has been published by Macmillan Caribbean as part of its series on Caribbean artists. The book is narrated by both Xavier and series editor Edward Lucie-Smith, and provides an in-depth look at the artists 40-year creative journey. Twenty years ago, Xavier made statements about the ongoing destruction of the natural world through his masterpiece series Global Council for Restoration of the Earths EnvironmentŽ. Inspired by impending threats on St. Lucia that he discovered upon returning to the island in 1987 after living abroad, the artist hoped this work would raise awareness about dire ecological issues. Now, 20 years later, Xaviers concerns are forefront in the international political arena. In addition to his environmental work, Xavier is esteemed widely for his abstract watercolours and oils inspired by the dynamic Caribbean weather and for his striking and colorful depictions of the Pitons, which are featured on the books cover. The book offers an inclusive look at Xaviers most significant work from the 1960s through the present. It also features Xaviers second environmental series, Environmental FragileŽ, which involved conceptual works made entirely from recycled cardboard and ends of commercial paint, and embedded with shards of 24carat gold representing the millions of trees that have been ground into dust for commercial purposes, the finality of earths resources, and the preciousness of our environment. Xavier is currently completing his third series of environmental work titled Global WarningŽ, which has not yet been shown to the public. Available at bookstores or www.amazon.co.uk.

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FEBRUARY 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 39BOOK REVIEW BY BOB BERLINGHOFClose to a ClassicJust Another Day in Paradise , by Julia Bartlett, ©2004, 257 pages. ISBN 9781-4303-2709-7 This tale of a plucky solo sailor, Morgane, and her travels between islands in the Caribbean contains something I have never before come across in sailing literature „ a realistic, harrowing account of the aftermath of a tragic hurricane. The island on which she survives, wisely called St. Bertha, was modeled on St. Martin and the damage done to it by Hurricane Luis over a decade ago. At the time, the dimensions of the tragedy were largely glossed over by the news media. Bartletts account of countless lives lost, both at sea and on land (a mudslide killed uncounted illegal immigrants when the hill they lived on collapsed), shows a country in chaos and distress. It is not pretty, but it is one of the best features of this novel. The supporting characters are generally well-drawn. Morganes boyfriend, Jimbo, and their sidekick, Terry, who each have their own boats, are particularly vivid. The dialogue between these three sparkles with wit and authenticity. This reader feels like he has tipped a few beers with them. Morganes cat, Nelson, is also featured with internal monologues, which should please cat lovers, but I found this a little too cute. Of her local characters, Ronnie, the bartender, Yves, the escaped convict, and Isabel, a woman crushed by the death of her friend, are well-portrayed. For comic relief there is a nutty taxi driver and an eccentric self-taught chiropractor. This book is chiefly about surviving a hurricane, but there is quite a bit of humour stuffed in between the devastations. There is also a parallel story to Morganes, concerning her English friend Victoria. We are told in the first chapter that Morgane fled a whining husband and whining kidsŽ to become a self-reliant sailor. Victoria, a cog in the wheel of the English penal system, is seeking to escape a mundane job, and a family that doesnt appreciate her, by visiting Morgane. The hurricane alters her travel plans and causes her to have the adventure of her life by forcing her to wing it.Ž The hurricane description is quite good, but its aftermath is even better, told from the points of view of Morgane, who manages to get ashore only to be buried under the mud, and Yves, an escaped prisoner who is searching for the remnants of his family while dodging the soldiers and police who are shooting at looters. Unfortunately, the realistic and bleak tone of this novel is upstaged by a jarring Hollywood ending. There are three or four miracles towards the end of this book which indicate that Ms. Bartlett was hoping to please everybody with an alls well that ends wellŽ smiley-face attitude. This somewhat trivializes the horror of what has come before by undercutting the novels serious tone. The side story of Faye, an albino who feels victimized by local prejudice, is not enough to balance the contrived happy ending of all the characters. Morganes brush with a drug baron is particularly weak. Some of the local dialect fails to ring true, but that is a minor complaint. Although uneven in tone, I would still recommend this book, although I cant help but wonder what a classic it could have been had the author set out to write a funny and bleak Caribbean novel without the miraculous ending. This book is available from www.lulu.com or www.amazon.com. Contact John Louis € 876-715-6044 € 876-873-4412 e-mail: info@errolflyn nmarina.com€VHF Channel 16 www.errolflynnmarina.com Navigating the good life Out of the Water Storage Up to 95 FeetThe only 100-ton travel lift in this part of the Caribbean, servicing yachts up to 95' in length.PROTECT YOUR INVESTMENT ON THE WATER THIS HURRICANE SEASONFull Service Marina100 Ton Travel-lift24 Hour FuelPaint ShedsEngine and Part SpecialistsDuty Free Zone in MarinaProtected HarborDepth Up to 25 Feet at Face DockOpen Air Market 1 Minute by FootDowntown Nightlife24 Hour Security Gated MarinaRestaurant,Beach Bar & Grille Introducing the NEWErrol Flynn Marina & BoatyardPORT ANTONIO,JAMAICA

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FEBRUARY 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 40 Stock Upon the widest selection and the best prices in Grenada at our two conveniently located supermarkets. Whether its canned goods, dairy products, meat, fresh vegetables or fruits, toiletries, household goods, or a fine selection of liquor and wine, The Food Fair has it all and a lot more.Hubbards JONAS BROWNE & HUBBARD (Gda.) Ltd. The Carenage: Monday Thursday 8 am to 5:30 pm Friday until 8:45 pm Saturday until 1:00 pm Tel: (473) 440-2588 Grand Anse: Monday Thursday 9 am to 5:30 pm Friday & Saturday until 7:00 pm Tel: (473) 444-4573 MAC'S PIZZERIAIn addition to our famous pizza we offer seasonal specialties and fresh baked goods. Open daily from 11:00am to 10:00pm. Situated in Admiralty Bay, Bequia between the Frangipani and Plantation House. For Reservations: VHF Ch68 or Tel: (784) 458 3474 Tel: ( 784 ) 458-3758 in Lower Bay,Bequia Come and find us amongst the trees!Candelight Dinners Monday to SaturdayPLEASE RESERVE!PORTHOLE RESTAURANT & BAR& Shoreline Mini-MarketA friendly atmosphere where you can sit and meet people.Admiralty Bay, Bequia Noelina & Lennox Taylor welcome you! VHF CH68 Phone (784) 458-3458 We serve breakfast, lunch and dinner Transatlantic with Street. DVD. Produced and directed by Gavin Shaw, © Gavin Shaw Marine Marketing. Distributed by Bennett Media Corporation. 120 minutes, color. In many ways sailing across the Atlantic in 1985 was more like it had been a century before than it is like today „ especially if you were doing it aboard an 80-year-old, engineless wooden boat. But some things about sailing seem eternal: the joy of a fair-weather sunrise at sea after a long night watch, watching dolphins speed effortlessly in your bow wave, the satisfaction of learning seamanship from an experienced and patient skipper, the conflicting emotions of a longawaited landfall. This DVD is a re-release of the 1986 video made by British advertising executive Gavin Shaw, who took a three-month sabbatical to sail 5,000 miles with Don Street aboard the 44-foot Iolaire from Glandore, Ireland to English Harbour, Antigua, via Vigo, Spain, the islands of Porto Santo and Madeira, and the Salvage, Canary and Cape Verde island groups. Street says, We had no electronic navigation, only a Brooks and Gatehouse RDF, a sextant and a radio to check time signals.There were no cruising guides: we knew nothing of Porto Santo, the Salvage or the Cape Verde islands, and very little of the Canaries. We sailed in and out of everywhere as we had no engine.Ž With no self-steering gear either, the crew of five took turns hand steering, by tiller, all the way. Gavin adds that Iolaire was a wee bit wetter to sail than the modern craft his skipper refers to as two-string plastic bathtubsŽ, remarking that often she feels like shes sinking out from under youŽ. (No fear: the tins of food may have gotten rusty, but Iolaire had enormous and regularly exercised bilge pumps.) As Gavin said at the end of the trip, arriving in Antigua, We felt more like explorers than tourists.Ž The DVD has a very you are thereŽ feel, giving a real sense of what its like to do a long ocean passage on a small boat. A little too real sometimes „ the format of Day One, Day Two, Day Three, Day Fourƒ (three months, remember) occasionally gets just as tedious as living through a long voyage when nothing much of interest is happening and youve run out of your favorite foods. But, as in bluewater voyaging, with all its sidetracks and slow spots, there are also moments of exhilaration and transcendent natural beauty found nowhere but at sea. Gavin has an eye for shots which capture the moment, and the original background music by Craig Wrigley, mostly acoustic guitar, adds to the overall aesthetic appeal. The educational components of this DVD will be greatly appreciated, especially those concerning sail trim. Gavins clear line drawings show the various rigs (such as poor mans twin headsailsŽ) used on the trip, and Dons voice-over explains them. Also throughout are seamanship tips that are just as valid today as they were 23 years ago. Of the making of the original video, Gavin writes: When Don saw the JVC equipment we hoped would survive the three-month passage from Ireland to Antigua, he said: Electricity, copper and salt water make green gunge. However, electricity itself was in short supply on Iolaire and cooling the skippers beer was the first priority for the wind and water generators. Diverting enough power to charge the video batteries was one challenge. However, death by green gunge was the biggest threat to the camera on Dons dear old boat. In 85, a thousand gallons were hand pumped [from the bilge] every day when Iolaire was working in the Trades. We kept the filming equipment in an airtight case with a kilogram of desiccating crystals which were dried in the oven after the mornings bread making. On deck, the camera was protected from spray and rain by a strong but lightweight plastic hood. With this regime the camera and recorder kept working all the way and had successfully captured 13 hours by the time Dons Herreshoff bower anchor hit the bottom in English Harbour.Ž Many viewers today, accustomed to television and films current fad for quick, choppy cuts (three seconds is now a longŽ shot) and a dozen car crashes per hour might find this DVDs pace „ well, as slow as sailing itself can sometimes be. Just ease your mainsheet. Its worth taking 120 minutes to settle in with a favorite beverage or two, a big bowl of popcorn and a few sailing buddies and take this historic yet timeless trip. Sailing doesnt lose its magic. Available from www.bennettmarine.com and Armchair Sailor.SOME THINGS NEVER CHANGE The reviewer apologizes for the authentic saltwater splashes on the cover of our copy!

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FEBRUARY 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 41 Basils Bar Mustique WE SHIP AROUND THE WORLD! Visit Basil's in Mustique or St. Vincentwww.basilsbar.com basils@caribsurf.comVisitors to Mustique are invited to:BASIL'S BAR AND RESTAURANT: Basil's Bar in Mustique was named one of the World's Ten Best Bars in 1987 by Newsweek magazine and today lives up to that tradition. Recently renovated the new face of Basil's Bar in Mustique is all that and more offering the freshest seafood, steaks and pastas for dinner. Terrific lunches and breakfasts. Now equipped with WIFI you can enjoy sunset cocktails and catch up on the web. Basil's Bar is home and originator of the Mustique Blues Festival, January 23 February 6, 2008. Breakfast service begins at 8:00 AM, Lunch is served 11:00 AM6 PM, Dinner at 7:30 until late. Come to Basil's for Cocktails anytime and plan to attend the Wednesday night Jump up and BBQ. Call 784-488-8350 or VHF 68. BASIL'S BOUTIQUE Fabrics as bright as the sea and as light as air... perfect for island joy. Elegant island evening and playful day wear. For women, men and children, plus lots of T-shirts to take home. Basil's Boutique also offers silver and gemstone jewelry. BASIL'S GREAT GENERAL STORE: There is nothing general about Basil's Great General Store stocked with fine French wines, cheeses from Europe, sauces and gourmet jams. Imported cigars. Fine foods in Paradise. Call 784-488-8407 ACROSS FOREVER: Imagine, decorating your home with Antiques from Bali and India contemporary pieces and fabulous lighting. Across Forever has a magnificent collection of furniture and home accessories from Asia. Shipping is easily and efficiently arranged. Call 784-488-8407Visitors to St Vincent are invited to:BASIL'S BAR: In St Vincent near the port of Kingstown is an 18th century cobblestone building where you may find Basil's Restaurant and Bar. Air conditioned, you will enjoy cocktails most delightful, the staff most welcoming and the meals, some of the best on the island. Call 784-457-2713 Forget kneading and fussing, new recipes have been developed for really easy bread making. Compared with the old way, it is like GPS compared to celestial navigation. Its perfect for galley dummies and single-handers. The following recipe is adapted from Mark Bittmans article in the New York Times , which described the no-knead bread of Jim Lahey, owner of New York Citys Sullivan Street Bakery. It has been modified here to minimize the mess, and also with comments on making it work with a boat oven. The bread you get looks much like sour-dough bread and has a wonderful crust. You need the following equipment: € An oven € A pottery dish or metal saucepan with a well-fitting lid that fits in the oven (about 8 inches diameter and 3 1/2 inches high) € A largish cutting board € A large clean tea towel € A bowl large enough to mix four and one-half cups € A plastic bag, Caribbean plastic bathing hat, or a bit of plastic, which you can put over the top of the bowl to stop any moisture escaping. Unless you get the Caribbean bathing hat, you will also need a rubber band to hold it tightly over the bowl € A rubber spatula (you can get away with a spoon, but it is not as easy) € Some cornmeal to stop things sticking (if cornmeal is a problem, you can get away with flour, but the result will be messier, cornmeal is far better) That is most of the work right there: making sure you have the gear. Next, the ingredients: 2 1/2 Cups of white baking flour (use 3 if you have a house oven, not a boat oven) 1/4 teaspoon of dried instant yeast 2 teaspoons of salt Half as much water as flour (1 1/4 Cups for a boat oven, 1 1/2 for a house oven) Start this bread in the evening. Mix the dry ingredients well in the bowl. Add the water, mix thoroughly. Put the plastic over the bowl and seal it with a rubber band. Leave overnight. (This standing time is what makes no-kneading possible, so dont shortcut it.) Next morning, dust a cutting board with cornmeal; scrape the ingredients out of the bowl onto the cutting board with the rubber spatula (or whatever). Gently flop it over, being sure there is still enough cornmeal beneath the dough. (This flopping over gets you cornmeal on top of the bread so the tea towel does not stick). Cover loosely with a clean tea towel and leave for two hours. After one and half hours, begin getting the oven and pot ready. Put your saucepan or baking dish with the lid on in the oven. Turn it on and set to 450°F. If you have a boat oven with no temperature gauge on it, put it on the very highest setting. After half an hour of pre-heating, remove the saucepan or dish and take the cover off. Flop the bread mix into the saucepan or dish, put the lid back on, and put it in the oven. Bake at 450°F for half an hour, then remove the lid, and bake for another quarter of an hour. You are now finished except for removing the bread from the oven and turning it out onto a board. I suggest making this bread for the first time with white flour. After that, experiment with multigrain, whole wheat, or whatever. You can also add half a cup of oilcured pitted olives cut in two to make an excellent olive bread. Boat ovens can present certain problems. If you find the bread burns at the back or bottom, the flame is probably too close to the pan. The fix is to cover the shelf with cheap pottery tiles. You may find you want to adjust the amount of liquid in this recipe just a little. You will need to scrape the bread mixture onto the cutting board, but you should be able to use your hands to flop the bread over, once it has a little cornmeal on the outside. If you find it way too wet for this, sprinkle a little cornmeal on top to protect the towel and then scrape the mixture into the pot with a spoon (the bread will still be fine), but next time try just a tad less water. It should not be too dry, however, as the moisture in this method is essential to the rising. NO-KNEAD BREAD ON BOARDby Chris Doyle Let the dough rest overnight, bake the next morning, and youll have a fresh, crusty peasant loaf for lunch or supper

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FEBRUARY 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 42 BEQUIA, Port Elizabeth, Admiralty Bay Tel: (784) 457 3443 €e-mail: saltydog@vincysurf.comBequia Restaurant Great Cocktails & Fun Full Cable TV • Air Conditioning • Sportsbar • Pool TableBar open daily untilƒ Sunday 6pm 2am Kitchen open Monday to Saturday 10am 10pm Menu: Burgers, Flying Fish, Philly Steak Sandwiches,Fajitas, Salads, Chicken Wings, Conch Fritters, etc. Dinner Menu will be available from Dec 07 NEW A T XANADU MARINE: AMER ON ABC 3 TIN FREE ANTIFOULING P AINT Marlin Bottom Paint * Delco * Underwater Metal Kit * Z-Spar * Cetol * Mercury Seachoice * Marpac * Teleflex * Tempo * Ritchie * Breeze * Whale * Ancor Racor * Wix * Shurflo* Johnson Pumps * 3-M * Flags * Perko * Jabsco * Groco Boatlife * Starbrite * Camp Zincs * Marine Padlocks * Orion * Sunbrella Weblon * Clear Vinyl * Canvaswork Supplies * Marinco * Garmin * Uniden Apelco * Harken * Sta-lok * 316 SS Rigging * Cordage * West System * ShieldsDinghy Accessories * Waterproofing * Aqua Signal * Imray lolaire ChartsCORNER OF MIRANDA & GUARAGUAO, PUERTO LA CRUZ,VENEZUELATELEPHONE:(58) (281) 265-3844 FAX:(58) (281) 265-2448E-mail:xanadumarine@cantv.net Standby VHF Channel 72DISCOUNTS ON ARTIGIANA BATTELLIAND CARIBE DINGHYSTHE CRUISING SAILORS CHANDLERY SINCE 1990€ PERSONALIZED ATTENTION BY OUR EXPERIENCED STAFF € REPLACEMENT PARTS & MAINTENANCE PRODUCTS THE YUMMY YAMThe array of root vegetables in Caribbean markets can be confusing. Cassava, tannia, eddos, yam, sweet potato and dasheen are the most familiar names in the Eastern Caribbean; on the western side of the Caribbean youll hear boniata, batata, otoe, ñame, ñampi, yucca, malanga and yautia. There is often confusion between sweet potatoesŽ and yamsŽ; many North Americans use the names interchangeably. But yams and sweet potatoes are not the same thing. They dont even belong to the same family. Real yams belong to the Dioscoreaceae family with hundreds of edible varieties „ and not very many recipes. Yams are perennial vines with shiny heart-shaped leaves and underground tubers, usually buried deep and difficult to dig up. The edible tuber is long and cylindrical and its skin is rough and scaly, almost like a trees bark. Sweet potatoes, on the other hand, belong to the Morning Glory, or Convolvulacae , family, and have a smooth red skin. There are nearly 200 varieties of yams, with brown, black, white or pink skin, and with white, yellow, or purple flesh. They can grow up to seven feet and weigh 200 pounds! The name yam came from the Portuguese word inhameŽ or the Spanish word ñame,Ž both of which are derived from an African word nyami,Ž meaning to eat.Ž In the English-speaking Caribbean, traditionally, all root crops are called ground provisionsŽ or ground foodŽ. This term came from the sugar plantation days when food for the workers was scarce. Ground food was a reliable source of nutrition, since these roots could survive extreme dry spells and the wrath of tropical storms. Also, roots such as yam, dasheen and cassava could be grown inconspicuously with the sugarcane crop. The yam remains a staple food in many of the Caribbean islands, Africa, and South America. Yams sugars and complex carbohydrates are absorbed into the bloodstream slowly and, because yams are high in fiber, yams fill you up without filling out your hips and waistline. When buying yams at the market, look for solid, hard roots which are heavy for their size, with no soft shrunken spots, cracks, or mold. Pick the best by pricking through the skin with a fingernail. The flesh should be crisp and juicy. Store the yams in a cool, well-ventilated place. In a cool, dry place theyll keep for a few weeks, but in less than ideal conditions, they will only keep for a week. Use before they get soft. Yams taste more like an Idaho potato than any other tropical tuber. Yams can be boiled then mashed with milk, butter and cheese to make yam pie. Or yams can be just mashed with plenty of butter and seasoned to complement meat, chicken or fish dishes. Yams can be finely sliced into chips or simply baked in their skins. Yams are a wonderful addition to many soups, especially fish broth. Cold boiled yam can be made into a type of potato salad by mixing it with mayonnaise, onion and celery. Yam chunks can be added to stir fry or a pan of roasted vegetables. Roasted yams, fennel, onions, and mushrooms are a delicious combination. It is not advisable to eat raw yam. In any case, the skins are difficult to peel until the vegetable has been cooked. Wear gloves if peeling raw yams, since they secrete an acrid juice that can irritate the skin. Scrub yams before cooking.Recipes from Mary HeckrotteBourbon and Beer Yamcakes 1 1/2 Cups flour 1 Tablespoon baking powder 1/2 teaspoon salt 3 eggs, separated 1/2 Cup milk 1/2 Cup beer 2 Tablespoons bourbon 1 Cup yams, boiled and mashed 2 Tablespoons butter, melted Pinch each, ground cardamom and ginger Cooking oil Maple syrup In a small mixing bowl, sift together the flour, baking powder, and salt. Beat the egg yolks and add them to the flour mixture. Add milk, beer, bourbon, mashed yams, butter, and spices. Stir until all ingredients are moistened. Beat egg whites until stiff peaks form, then fold into batter. Heat slightly oiled skillet or griddle over medium-high heat. Pour 1/4 Cup batter into pan and cook until edges are dry and center has bubbles. Turn and cook other side until golden. Serve with maple syrup. Baked Garlic Yam 1 small yam 2 Tablespoons butter Garlic salt 3 Tablespoons sour cream Bake yam at 400°F for 45 to 60 minutes or until yam is fork-tender. Remove from oven and split yam in half. Holding halves with a potholder, use a spoon to scoop out insides. Discard skin. Heap on a plate and spread with butter then sprinkle on garlic salt to taste. Top with a dollop of sour cream. Makes one serving. Multiply ingredients for more servings. Scotchie Yams 2 small yams 1 quart water Pinch salt „Continued on next page

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FEBRUARY 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 43 Special 8-grain bread Fresh Croissants daily New location at former Le Petit Jardin Wir sprechen Deutsch Credit Cards welcome! Fine Wines Imported Cheeses & Pastas Daily Fresh Herbs & Produce and other Gourmet FoodsVHF 68 Tel (784) 458-3625 Fax (784) 457-3134 doris_freshfood@yahoo.com in BequiaYACHTPROVISIONING Your #1Choice for Provisioning in the Grenadines.Fine Wine, Cheeses, Fresh Fruits, Vegetables and Choice MeatsMonday-Saturday: 8am to12pm & 3pm to 6pm Sunday: 9am to12pmTHE FOOD STORE Corea  s MustiqueTel: (784) 488-8479 Fax: (784) 456-5230 „Continued from previous page 1 small onion, sliced thinly 2 to 4 Tablespoons butter Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste 1/2 Cup water Boil yams in 1 quart water (or to just cover) until barely fork-tender. Drain, peel, and slice in 1/4-inch slices. Put in skillet with remaining ingredients. Cover and cook over medium-low heat until yam slices and onions are tender. Add more water if needed to prevent scorching. Serves two. True Yam and Apple Casserole 2 Cups yams 4 Tablespoons butter, divided 1/2 Cup brown sugar 1/2 Cup corn syrup 2 Tablespoons dry sherry 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon 1/8 teaspoon salt 2 medium tart apples, peeled, cored, sliced 1/2 Cup pecans, chopped Boil yams until fork-tender. Grease a 10-inch round oven-proof pan or dish. Process yams in food processor with 2 Tablespoons of the butter, sugar, corn syrup, sherry, cinnamon, and salt until smooth. Spread half of mixture in dish. Layer on half of apples and half of pecans. Repeat. Brush with remaining butter. Bake uncovered at 325° for 30 minutes. Serve hot. Caribbean Bubble and Squeak 1 pound yams One-half pound cabbage 1 medium onion, minced Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste Butter Oil for frying Peel, boil and mash yams. Shred and steam cabbage. With fork, mix yams, cabbage, onions, salt and pepper. Add a little butter if yam is dry. Heat a small amount of oil in large skillet and turn mixture into it. Flatten mixture and brown. Stir all then flatten again. Brown, then turn and brown other side. Serve hot. Yammy Chips 2 small yams Oil for frying Salt, garlic salt, and/or chili power as desired Boil yams until fork-tender. Peel and place in refrigerator overnight. Next day, slice as thin as possible then fry slices a few at a time in very hot, deep oil. Drain on absorbent paper, sprinkle with salt and desired spices while hot. Trini Fish Patties 1 1/2 Cup cooked fish, flaked 1 1/2 Cup yams, boiled and mashed 1 egg 1 Tablespoon onion, minced 1/2 teaspoon salt Freshly ground black pepper to taste Flour to coat Oil for frying Combine all and form into balls. Roll in flour and flatten between hands. Heat oil in skillet over medium heat and brown patties on each side.Recipes from Shirley HallHealthy Yammy Chips 2 pounds yams 2 Tablespoons lemon juice 3 Tablespoons canola oil Salt and seasoning to taste Slice yams as thinly as possible. Rinse slices in cold water mixed with the lemon juice to keep the flesh from turning gray. Lay slices on a baking sheet, sprinkle with oil and toss so both sides of the chips are coated with oil. Sprinkle chips with salt and pepper for spicy chips or use nutmeg, cinnamon and sugar for something different. Gingered Chicken and Yams 1 pound yams 2 Tablespoons olive oil, divided 1 red onion, peeled and chopped 1/2 pound boneless chicken breasts 2 Tablespoons minced ginger root 4 chives, chopped 3 Tablespoons soy sauce 3 Tablespoons water 1 Tablespoon brown sugar 1 Tablespoon cornstarch Salt and spices to taste Slice yams and chop into matchstick-sized pieces. Chop chicken into small pieces. Heat one Tablespoon of the oil in a large frying pan on medium heat. Add yam sticks, and onion. Cook for five minutes stirring frequently. Spoon off into a covered bowl and keep warm. Increase heat to high and add the other Tablespoon of oil, chicken, and ginger. Cook for five minutes till chicken is no longer pink inside. Return the yams and onion to the pan with the chicken and mix in the remaining ingredients. Bring to a boil and simmer for three to five minutes. Remove from heat and serve with rice or pasta. Yam Biscuits 1 pound yams 2 Cups baking flour 1 Tablespoon baking powder 1 teaspoon salt 2 teaspoons brown sugar 1/2 cup shortening or vegetable oil 1/2 cup milk Bake yams, mash and set aside. In a large bowl sift all dry ingredients together. Use whisk or an electric mixer (set on medium) to mix in the mashed yams and shortening for about two minutes. Slowly add milk to the yam mixture. Spread wax paper on your countertop to reduce the mess, and then dump the bowls contents onto it. Knead for about a minute, until just slightly moist. Lightly roll out mixture to about an inch thick. Cut out biscuits about two inches in diameter. Place about two inches apart on an ungreased baking sheet. Roll all leftover pieces together to make more biscuits. Bake in the oven at 450°F for about 15 minutes or until biscuits are lightly browned on top. Mango and Yam Surprise 1 pound yams 4 to 6 nice-sized mangos, ripe to overripe 1/2 Cup brown sugar 3 Tablespoons bakers flour 1/4 teaspoon grated nutmeg 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon 2 Tablespoons butter or margarine 1/2 Cup peanuts or almonds 1 Cup miniature marshmallows (optional) Boil, peel and chop yams. Peel and slice mangoes. In a large bowl, mix together sugar, flour, nutmeg, and cinnamon. Add butter and nuts and mix until mixture starts to crumble. In a two-quart oven-proof dish, arrange mixed yam and mango pieces. Cover with sugar mixture, and marshmallows if used, and bake at 350°F for 35 minutes. Simple Yam Soup 3 pounds yams 2 medium-size sweet peppers (prefer red for color) 5 Cups chicken broth 1/2 hot pepper, seeded and minced (optional) 1/2 red or yellow onion, chopped 2 cloves garlic, minced 2 Tablespoons minced chadon bene Salt and seasoning to taste Peel and slice yams. Combine all ingredients in a large pot and simmer on medium heat until vegetables are tender. Stuffed Yams 3 pounds yams (about a pound each) 1 pound medium shrimp 2 Tablespoons butter or margarine 1 medium onion, peeled and chopped 4 chives 2 cloves garlic, minced 1/2 Cup milk salt and spice to taste Peel yams and cut in half lengthwise. Boil in salted water, careful to avoid breaking. Scoop out center of yam halves so that only an inch of the shell remains. Mash the scooped-out yam. Boil, peel and de-vein shrimp In butter, sauté onion, chives, shrimp, and garlic. Mix in the mashed yam and the milk. Season to taste. Fill yam hollows with mixture and broil until browned. Yam Fritters 2 pounds yams 1 Cup flour 1/2 Cup grated cheddar cheese 3 eggs, beaten 1 medium onion, grated 1 clove garlic, minced Salt and seasoning to taste Oil for frying Peel and chop yams. Boil yam pieces until tender. Drain the liquid but retain about a half-cup. In a large bowl, mash yams, adding the cooking liquid until the yams are almost creamy. Add flour, cheese, eggs, onion, garlic and seasonings. In a frying pan or wok, place three inches of oil and heat to high. Carefully place yam mixture by the spoonful into hot oil and fry for three to four minutes until golden brown.

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FEBRUARY 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 44 Dear Compass , Thank you for the April 2007 article entitled Reappearing Wreck Linked to 1898 HurricaneŽ. Imagine my surprise when I came across Duncan Richardsons article while researching the origin of a recently purchased oil painting depicting the rescue of some shipwrecked sailors. Unable to identify any information about the artist of the painting (it appears to be a H.W.S Tiestley) I did have a date of the painting (1900) and a name on the rescue vessel in the painting. In earlier investigation I found an article from the New York Times which mentions the steamer Hubert returning from St. Vincent with a group of five men from the wrecked ship Grace Linwood (spelled LynwoodŽ in Mr. Richardsons article). While in the harbor of Barbados on September 10, the hurricane hit, and the Grace Linwoods anchor line fouled with another sailing ship, the Luenda (spelled LoandaŽ in Mr. Richardsons article). They beat against one another but finally the Grace Linwoods anchor chain parted and all the next day was driven west until wrecking on the shore of St. Vincent, 96 miles from the harbor of Barbados. Thanks to Duncans article; it helped me identify the exact location where the wreck and rescue occurred! Donovan Rafferty Hi, Compass , I have just sailed down from Spain to Brazil and have been looking/asking for info on Venezuela regarding boat storage and berthing. I got very little on the net, with many sites inoperable. Bahia Redonda was the only one that managed a reply, courtesy of Josilene. Then a fellow yachtie passed me an October 2007 issue of Compass . Hey, a few pages were missing, but all in all I got a lot of info very, very quickly. Anyone who does not think that advertising works should think again, as I will most likely visit/berth/moor at many of the places featured in the mag. From the magazine, I then found your Readers Forum on the net. Your reply to Mary Draker on the yacht Kristina , regarding fees in Venezuela, told me just about all I need to know. Thank you. John C. Yacht Wild Card Hi, Compass , I just picked up my first issue of the Compass the other day (the November 2007 issue). Yall have put a lot of effort into a great complimentary publication. While I am not a cruiser, I do live in the Caribbean, and have my own 17-foot pleasure boat, but dont go far „ and wont after today. I think that if I was aspiring to cruise, I now would wake up in cold sweats, and if I had such a boat, Id place a full-page ad in your classifieds to off it quickly, and not tell anyone why. While reading some of your articles, I came across the one about this APIS [ Editors note: the Advanced Passenger Information System is no longer being applied to yachts ]. APIS does not concern me personally, but I am an advocate of freedom (one of the many reasons that I would never want to return to the Communist States of America). I am an advocate of no more regulations. There are enough already. There is one way to solve the APIS problem: all you cruisers just dont go to those particular islands. Simple. End of worries. Look at the globe. LOTS of blue water. Go elsewhere. Problem solved. But I was most disturbed by some of the letters to the editor. There were two readers writing about their experiences with law enforcement officials and the judicial systems in the USVI and BVI. It was scary, reading what happened to these folks. I am not sure about BVI law, but I know the corruption in the US, and the corruption in the judicial system, and all one needs to do is just follow the news, and see that in the US (and apparently its territories as well) the lesser the offense, the harsher the penalty. This is outrageous, officials terrorizing these folks for such petty mis-steps while all the real criminals run away with the bacon. Then there was the poor fellow who got scammed and extorted after running aground on Union Island, when they charged him outrageous amounts of cash to free his boat. (It might have been easier and cheaper to light the boat afire and take a commercial flight back.) Ironically, you placed this letter in the same issue as you focused on that part of the Caribbean! I realize that being a cruiser, for many people, means having a lifetime of savings either in the rig, or to live on, and many bad guys know and take advantage of this fact. There are more and more unscrupulous people in the world. Anyway, thanks for the enlightenment. I will continue to seek your publication, but I think any ideas of cruising are now confirmed dead. Ayo, JP Bonaire Dear JP, Thanks for the kind words about Compass. Its a real group effort, and everyone involved „ from Cockpit Crew to advertisers, contributors, printers, island agents and distributors to first-time letter writers like yourself „ deserves a hand. The things that you say have turned you off the idea of ever cruising the Caribbean „ instances of bureaucracy, unfair application of the law, and the actions of unscrupulous people „ certainly exist in the region. But they also exist universally. As you say, if you follow the news in the US, or anywhere else (except where the news is state-controlled propaganda or tourist-oriented fantasy), youll find plenty of examples. Ill bet you could cite examples ashore in Bonaire, too „ staying put doesnt make you immune to these kinds of trouble. But we think that on balance, the cruising life in the Caribbean is pretty good. Youll have to think of better excuses for not taking the plunge. CC „Continued on next page rare +exotic arts + crafts interior designyoung street st. georges grenada tel: 440-2310e-mail: fisher@caribsurf.comJewelry, Wooden-Ware & Hammocks Marine Insurance The insurance business has changed. No longer can brokers talk of low rates. Rather,the honest broker can only say, "I'll do my best to minimize your increase!" There is good insurance,there is cheap insurance,but there is no good cheap insurance.You never know how good your insurance is until you have a claim. Then,if the claim is denied or unsatisfactorily settled, it is too late.I have been in the insurance business 40 years, 36 with Lloyds, and my claims settlement record cannot be beat. Fax DM Street Iolaire Enterprises (353) 28 33927 or e-mail: streetiolaire@hotmail.com www.street-iolaire.com Readers Forum Its possible that this 1900 painting depicts a scene from the 1898 hurricane that swept ships out of their Barbados anchorage to be wrecked on the coast of St. Vincent

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FEBRUARY 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 45 CARRIACOU REAL ESTATELand and houses for sale For full details see our website: www.islandvillas.com or contact Carolyn Alexander atDown Island Ltd e-mail: islander@caribsurf.comTel: (473) 443 8182 Fax: (473) 443 8290We also handle Villa Rentals & Property Management on Carriacou Flyingfish Ventures Ltd Marine Surveyors, Grenada Marine Survey throughout the CaribbeanPURCHASE – INSURANCE DAMAGEBob GoodchildAccredited Marine Surveyor Society of Accredited Marine Surveyors RYAOcean Yachtmaster (Commercial) Accreditation American Boat and Yacht CouncilTel:Grenada (+1 473) 407 4388 surveyor@flyingfishventures.com „Continued from previous page Dear Compass , The possible death of Windjammer Barefoot Cruises, founded by Mike Burke in 1947, was reported by Norman Faria in the November issue of Compass . I say good riddanceŽ. I saw Burkes operation from the early days. Frequently, when crew walked off the boat for nonpayment of wages, Burke flew in a replacement crew that quickly departed with the boat, leaving the unpaid crew stranded on the beach. Safety was abominable. In the 1970s Jeff Hammond, an editor of Yachting and Motorboating and Sailing , wrote that over the years until then, at last seven passengers and crew were lost overside and not recovered. We all know of the tragic fate of the Windjammer fleets Fantome , lost with 31 crew aboard in 1998s Hurricane Mitch. According to the book The Ship and The Storm by Jim Carrier (ISBN 0-07-135526-X), her stability was so bad she may have capsized when it was blowing only 45 to 50 knots. Would the Fantome have passed a proper safety inspection done by an internationally recognized authority? Can any of the Windjammer fleet pass a proper safety inspection done by an internationally recognized body? The crew, many of them West Indians, are young, enthusiastic and trying, but are they properly trained? Are the officers properly licensed to be captains, mates and engineers on ships of the size of Windjammers ships? What about the law passed well over 20 years ago that (as a result of two cruiseships catching fire and sinking with very high casualties) outlawed carrying of passengers on vessels with wooden decks? Name Withheld by Request Editors note: For more information on Windjammer Barefoot Cruises current status visit www.windjammer.com/press_release.html and www.consumeraffairs.com/travel/windjammer.html Dear Compass , A few months ago, a Sr. Gomez wrote a controversial letter about Venezuelan politics to the Compass which generated numerous responses. The Compass then stated that enough was enough, and would only publish further comments on the political situation here if the safety of cruisers was involved. Roger that, matey! It was therefore a disappointment to read an article in the November 2007 issue that quoted a highly charged political phrase. It made my blood boil, as no doubt it did amongst Venezuelans. This cruiser was visiting a childrens zoo! So why use that rhetoric during an innocent day out? I assure you it had nothing to do with the admission price. Cruisers who perpetuate this nonsense seem intent on spreading collateral damage wherever they go. Politics aside, also in the November Compass a visitor stated that the patrols and curfews in the canal system at Puerto La Cruz, Venezuela, were crimping their funŽ as they can no longer go to the MareMares marina for dinner by dinghy. If you can afford to eat there a couple of nights a week, you can afford a taxi, which is more beneficial to the community. This curfew has been imposed for nearly a year and is paying dividends. I live on a canal that has a short-cut to the sea for dinghies and small powerboats. Before the curfew and patrols, Venezuelans as young as ten tried to re-enact the golden age of flying boats in rubber ducks that papi had bought them, powered by 60-horsepower motors „ they were out of control. It therefore came as no surprise to hear about a serious accident which resulted in the death of one Venezuelan who became shark bait when he came into contact with the prop. There are some cruisers who also act in an irresponsible manner. They load their dinghies up at the Plaza Mayor and take the short cut, full ahead and to hell with bank erosion. At the beginning of 2007, another visitor stated that the non-availability of diesel in Puerto La Cruz was due to unscrupulous cruisersŽ, Give me a break. How much fuel does the average sail boat carry, 600 or 700 liters? Thats not worth smuggling. The problem was with the Venezuelan fishermen who converted their fish holds into fuel tanks and were supplying Asian longliners in the islands. This same person also chastised another cruiser for insulting the marina staff. The phrase that was used is not considered an insult here; it is commonly used as an expression of frustration, much the same as we would use four-letter words if something had dropped into the bilge. Peter Phillips Venezuela Dear Peter, We appreciate your long-term residents persective on the scene in Venezuela, but disagree with a couple of the criticisms of other Compass contributors. For readers who didnt see the November edition, the cruiser who visited the zoo in Mérida, Venezuela, praised the reasonable price of admission, saying, Like many places weve seen so far here in Venezuela, theyre not out to rip you off. Im sure they could charge a lot more but then people couldnt afford to goƒ. That is, I suppose, socialism, which is blatantly advertised on walls and buildings everywhere: Socialism, Patriotism or Death!Ž It seems clear that the writer of the article was simply relating what hed seen posted on walls during his trip, just as many tourists in Cuba take souvenir photos of all the Che Guevara portraits, without considering it a political act. Socialismo, Patria o MuerteŽ (perhaps more accurately translated as Socialism, Motherland or DeathŽ) is a catch phrase used by Venezuelan President Hugo Chavez. This phrase might raise some peoples hackles, no matter what the context, while to others it probably seems no more offensive than New Hampshires state license-plate motto, Live Free or DieŽ. The idea that the words Socialismo, Patria o MuerteŽ must not be repeated, but that its okay for a visitor to say coño de tu madreŽ (your mothers c€**Ž) to marina staff strikes us as a cultural anomaly, to say the least. Sally Dear Compass , I read A Question of MurderŽ by Lorna Rudkin ( Caribbean Compass , December 2007) with great delight; funny and clever at the same time. I hope that she treats us to some more articles like that. Julia Bartlett S/Y Haleiva Editors note: For those of you who didnt see Lornas article, dont panic „ it was about exterminating insects on board! Dear Compass , I am Peter Hughes, the Managing Director of the company that operates the large blue-and-white liveaboard dive vesselŽ that was, I am assuming, the vessel referred to in Scott Nichols letter in the January edition of the Caribbean Compass . I am at a certain disadvantage here, because the letter published on the subject offers no time line as to when the alleged incident occurred. The alleged incident concerns me greatly because by way of my business interests we operate many such liveaboard dive vesselsŽ around the world and were arguably, one of the first operators ever to install permanent moorings (as long as 30+ years ago) for the benefit of all concerned and in particular, for the benefit of the environment. We have always done so in compliance with all local laws and with the safe operation of all other vessels traversing the area in mind. With this in mind I can assure you we NEVER use invisibleŽ moorings ANYWHERE for ANY REASON, for the most obvious of reasons (e.g.: the situation referred to being the perfect example) and I can further assure you that we have always marked the Isle De Ronde mooring as we always do, using a large white float with a blue stripe around it. As has unfortunately happened in the past, and I assume must have this time too, our mooring floats have been all too frequently cut away by someoneŽ for whateverŽ reason[s]? I also dare to suggest that other vessels frequently utilize the moorings and recently a certain research vessel operating in the area was seen to use the mooring in question. This vessel is considerably larger than the M/V Wind Dancer and is also a considerably larger vessel than the mooring was ever intended for „ perhaps,this larger vessel might have damaged the mooring? I can assure you that prior to the M/V Wind Dancer leaving the area for an unscheduled repair at the Interisle Fabrication & Construction Co. Ltd, in Trinidad recently, there ABSOLUTELY WAS a mooring float on this mooring! In the vessels absence it would appear that again. someoneŽ has chosen to cut away and/or perhaps inadvertently damage the mooring thus eliminating the marker float. I offer my sincerest apologies to Scott Nichols of the schooner Satori and should Mr. Nichols wish to discuss the matter further, I can be reached at this address but I DO NOT ACCEPT OR ASSUME RESPONSIBILITY for the actions of others that are totally beyond my control „ i.e. Whoever it was that cut away or caused to be cut away the mooring marker float in our absence. I hope I have made my position on this most unfortunate incident clear and that Mr. Nichols will accept our sincerest apologies. Thank you, Peter A. Hughes Managing Director Wind Dancer (Grenada) Limited PO Box 386 St. Georges, Grenada Dear Compass Readers, We sailed to Aruba from Europe on our 42-foot Bavaria via (yawn) hundreds of ports and islands. This is the best place we have been. But, do not anchor here „ come into the Renaissance Marina. The marina management is the best we have ever encountered. Security is excellent. The marina services are excellent. All work we have had done has been controlled by the marina office with effortless efficiency. You also get all the services of the two 4 or 5 star hotels cause they own the marina. „Continued on next page

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FEBRUARY 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 46 Full Service Station:Fuel/Diesel/Gas Laundry Call Station Grocery Ice Cigarettes Cold Drinks Breakfast (Coffee, Croissants) Fishing Items Conveniently located at Carenantilles Dockyard LE MARINTel: +596 74 70 94 Fax: +596 7478 08 Mobile: +696 29 28 12 Open 7am to 7pm Sundays: 7am to 1pm M M M M A A A A R R R R T T T T I I I I N N N N I I I I Q Q Q Q U U U U E E E E B B B B I I I I C C C C H H H H I I I I K K K K S S S S E E E E R R R R V V V V I I I I C C C C E E E E S S S S Voiles AssistanceDidier and MariaLE MARIN/MARTINIQUESails & Canvas (repairs & fabrication) located at Carenantilles dockyardOpen Monday to Friday 8-12am 2-6pm Saturday by appointment tel/fax: (596) 596 74 88 32 e-mail: didier-et-maria@wanadoo.fr A&C YACHT BROKERSBOATS FOR SALEPort de plaisance du MARINMARTINIQUEwww.acyachtbrokers.com E-mail: acyb@wanadoo.fr S C H I P O C A S EGuadeloupe Ð F.W.I Your Caribbean Marine Flea MarketNew & Second-Hand Chandlery Charts … Sails Book Exchange etcƒ Close to Marina Bas-du-Fort Pointe à Pitre Open 6 days a week except Sundays Phone : + 590 (0) 590 831 775 E.mail : anke.beunis@wanadoo.fr Contact : Anke Dutch … English … French … German spoken All the Supplies, Chandlery & Safety Equipment for your Boat Port de Plaisance 97290, Le Marin Tel: +596 74 87 55 Fax: +596 74 85 39email: le-ship-martinique@wanadoo.frOpen 7/7MARTINIQUE „Continued from previous page The whole town is within walking distance: entertainments, food, nightclubs beyond imagination. Jennifers (the wife) hobbies are shopping and gambling. She is in heaven here. For the girls, the nightclubs are full of tall Dutch young men, average height 6 foot 5. For the boys, leggy Dutch girls and Venezuelan girls who are a subtle mix of Spanish blood, Indian blood and plastic surgery. Sail here if you can. Capn Dicko and Jen Blamey Dear Compass , Chris Doyle wrote about progress in the Tobago Cays Marine Park in Januarys Compass . For many years, full-time liveaboard cruisers have worked tirelessly to protect the natural beauty of the Tobago Cays by picking up trash on the islands and helping bareboaters anchor in the proper places. I cant count the number of times I and other cruisers have cleaned up the garbage on the islands, putting it on our boats and taking it to Union Island to dispose of properly. Or the number of times we went over to a bareboat charter party and suggested that they anchor in a place that would not damage the ecosystems. I had the opportunity to talk with Father Andrew Roache, Chairman of the Tobago Cays Marine Park Board, in early January. We had a nice discussion about the wonderful work the organization is doing in marking off the turtle grass to keep anchoring out of the area where there are now numerous Green Turtles living, and restoring the dinghy moorings near the reefs for snorkelers so that the reefs are protected. Their work is making a difference! During my conversation with Reverend Father Andrew, I made a suggestion that he said warranted further consideration by the Board of Directors of the TCMP. My suggestion was to have a system that would allow private yachts crewed by the liveaboard owners to purchase an annual pass to the Tobago Cays Marine Park. Unlike the charter boats, where the people are paying vast sums for a short vacation, many long-term cruisers are living on fixed-income retirement checks or limited budgets. Under the per person per day entry fee system, spending a few weeks every season in the Tobago Cays is now out of reach for many cruisers. We who have for years helped take care of the Tobago Cays can now no longer afford to enjoy them as we did in years past. It is also important to consider the impact to the local economy if we bypass the Cays and sail on to other destinations. I spent some time visiting with Walter, one of the old-time locals servicing the boats in the Cays. He confirmed that a number of cruising friends he has made over the years who came year after year have not been here recently, or, when they come, spend just a few days and move on. This has impacted his business and to make ends meet he has had to raise his prices for bringing bread, ice, and other supplies to the cruisers because there are fewer cruisers enjoying the Cays. The charter boats are still here,Ž he said, but my friends are no longer coming or staying just a few days.Ž I also spent some time with Heather Grant, who manages Ericas Yacht Services in Clifton on Union Island, talking about this. She is also on the Board of Directors of the TCMP and thought my suggestion of an annual pass was worth considering. We talked a while about a price that might be acceptable to both the cruisers and the Board. The local service boats all pay an annual fee of EC$250 for a permit to work in the park. I suggested a similar fee for private yachts crewed by their owners for an annual pass. The pass would be sold at the TCMP office in Clifton, which would verify that the pass was issued to liveaboard cruisers on their private yacht, not in commercial use. Charters of any kind and private yachts with paid professional crew would still pay the daily park fee collected by the park rangers as would private yachts who did not wish to purchase an annual pass. Another suggestion was to have some sort of a flag for pass holders to fly just below the St. Vincent & the Grenadines courtesy flag that announces to all that the boat is a Friend of the Tobago Cays.Ž [ Editors note: There is a registered non-profit NGO in St. Vincent & the Grenadines called Friends of the Tobago Cays, so this name would not be available to park pass holders „ unless, of course, they also joined this worthy environmental watchdog organization. For more information on Friends of the Tobago Cays, contact marlon.mills@gmail.com. ] The intent of this is two-fold: First to recognize the significant work that cruisers have done to support the Tobago Cays in the past and to foster a sense of co-operation between the cruising community and the TCMP. And second, cruisers who are granted an annual pass would be expected to help the park rangers by continuing to assist newcomers to the park to anchor in the proper places and to set a good example of conduct in the Cays. Heather told of another benefit to cruisers from the new park rules. Service boats are now held strictly accountable for their actions and courtesy to guests of the Tobago Cays. „Continued on next page Should frequent repeat visitors to marine parks such as the Tobago Cays be able to purchase multiple-entry annual passes?

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FEBRUARY 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 47UNIQUE IN DOMINICA SITUATED IN THE CITY OF ROSEAUCapitainerie Tel: +7672752851 Fax: +7674487701 VHF: 16 Working CH: 19 info@dominicamarinecenter.com www.dominicamarinecenter.com€ Dinghy Bar € Fuel (Marine Diesel) / Water at the dock € Dinghy dock € Nearby laundry service € Secured moorings € Night security € Ice & Provisioning (Grocery store) € Bakery € Clean restrooms and showers € Garbage disposal € Telephone & internet WIFI connection € Yacht chandlery agents of Budget Marine & soon Mercury Marine € Light boat repair and cleaning € Activity desk (Tours, diving and water sport activities) € Visa / Master Card accepted MID ATLANTIC YACHT SERVICESPT-9900-144 HORTA / FAIALAZORESTEL +351 292 391616 FAX +351 292 391656 mays@mail.telepac.ptwww.midatlanticyachtservices.comProviding all vital Services & Repairs for Trans-Atlantic Yachts Electronics,Chandlery,Rigging Bunkered Fuel (+10,000lt) EU-VAT (15%) Importation For SaleBACCHANAL TOO Cheoy Lee Offshore 50 John Alden designed Fiberglass classic, long keelLOA: 50 6Ž / LWL: 34 2Ž / Beam: 13 8Ž / Draft: 6 5ŽLying St. Vincent, US 99,000 Tel (784) 458-4283 beachcombers@cariaccess.com „Continued from previous page A particular bad boyŽ recently had his permit to work in the Cays revoked for 30 days with the warning that any further complaints against him would result in a permanent ban from any future work servicing guests of the Cays. So far this is just a suggestion from myself to the TCMP Board. If you support my suggestion and would like to enjoy the Cays without the worry of daily fees, please let your voice be heard through the Compass or by writing directly to the TCMP Board at tcmp191@hotmail.com, phoning Father Andrew at (784) 485-8191, or stopping by the TCMP office in Union Island for a chat. Sincerely, Dalton Williams S/V Quietly Dear Compass, I believe in giving credit when it really is due. Just short of three years old, my Kiss wind generator died. The instruction booklet that came with my unit claimed a three-year warranty. Upon my return in the spring, I dropped it off at their business in Chaguaramas to be repaired. I eagerly awaited the opportunity to put it back in operation as wind generation of electricity sure beats running the engine and heating up the boat. I couldnt test it then until my return to Sirius Endeavour in the early fall as I readied her for a new season of cruising. We left almost as soon as we splashed the water and within one week we were in Martinique. Alas, the newly re-conditioned wind generator failed almost immediately, suffering a seizure in the real sense. After an unreturned e-mail to Kiss, I phoned and spoke with Doug. Explaining the situation and asking for advice on what might be wrong, he paused and said, Why dont I just send you a new unit, minus the blades and control?Ž AND HE DID! It was waiting for me upon our arrival in St. Martin, just like he said. Thanks, Doug, for standing behind your products with service and integrity a cut above. Don Freeman S/V Sirius Endeavour Dear Compass Readers, We want to hear from YOU! Please include your name, boat name or address, and a way we can contact you (preferably by e-mail) if clarification is required. We do not publish individual consumer complaints or individual regatta results complaints. (Kudos are okay!) We do not publish anonymous letters; however, your name may be withheld from print at your request. Letters may be edited for length, clarity and fair play. Send your letters to: sally@caribbeancompass.com or fax (784) 457-3410 or Compass Publishing Ltd. Readers Forum Box 175BQ Bequia St. Vincent & the GrenadinesDollys Answers1)Census of Marine Life 2)Global Ocean Observing System 3)Integrated Global Observing Strategy 4)Intergovernmental Oceanographic Commission 5)International Oceanographic Data and Information Exchange 6)Indian Ocean Tsunami Warning System 7)Marine Information Alliance 8)Ocean Observations Panel for Climate 9)Scientific Committee on Ocean Research 10)World Meteorological Organization ATTENTION, PLEASE!Anyone who sent e-mail to sally@caribbeancompass.com between January 16th and January 22nd, please re-send it. That e-mail in-box sprang a leak and sank without a trace! Please do not send any spam, jokes, etcetera „ just Compass-related e-mail. Thanks Were on theWeb!www.caribbeancompass.com Articles • Advertisers' Directory • Links • Check It OutÉ Tell Your Friends!

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FEBRUARY 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 48 Your Expert Guide to Carriacous Best Diving Find us right in the town of Hillsborough! Phone/Fax (473) 443-7882 and VHF CH 16 scubamax@spiceisle.com www.scubamax.com €Daily dives at 9.30 am and 1.30 pm or individually €Air-Fills at PADI 5 * Standard €Scuba and Snorkel Gear Rental € PADI Courses from Beginner to Instructor & 15 Specialties in English & Deutsch €Rendezvous Service for Sailors at Hillsborough, Sandy Island & Tyrrel-Bay €Special Group Prices for Sailors INSTRUCTOR TRAINING B & C FUELS ENTERPRISEWelcomes you to Petite MartiniqueA stepping stone as you cruise through St. Vincent, Grenada and the Grenadines. Come alongside our splendid jetty and replenish your supplies of FUEL, OIL, WATER and ICE at the cheapest prices in the Grenadines. Call sign: Golf SierraŽ VHF channel 16 For further information call Glenn Clement or Reynold Belmar. Tel/Fax: (473) 443-9110 New environmentally friendly haulout 50-ton hoist, 18ft beam, 8ft draftFuel Dock, WaterDo it yourself or labour availableMini MarinaChandlery Phone/Fax: 473.443.8175 VHF: 16 E-mail: tbyh@usa.net TYRREL BAY YACHT HAULOUTCARRIACOU Packages Pick Ð up call:+ (599) 553-3850 / + (590) 690-222473 Int.001-3057042314 E-mail:ericb@megatropic.comIf you need to transport parcels,pallets, magazines,newspapers etc...CIRExpress give fast and efficient COURIER SERVICES to the Dutch and French side of St.Maarten/ St.Martin,offer the new delivery system collect and deliver door to door local the same day,Express packages and documents, Overnight Packages,Freight,Documents etc. All you need is contact us to fast pick up and deliver all your goods.S S S S t t t t . . . . M M M M a a a a a a a a r r r r t t t t e e e e n n n n WALLILABOU ANCHORAGEWALLILABOU BAY HOTELVHF Ch 16 & 68(range limited by the hills) ... PORT OF ENTRY MOORING FACILITIES WATER, ICE, SHOWERS CARIBEE BATIK BOUTIQUE BAR AND RESTAURANT TOURS ARRANGED CREDIT CARDS ACCEPTED HAPPY HOUR 5-6 P.O. Box 851, St. Vincent & the Grenadines, West Indies. Tel: (784) 458-7270 Fax: (784) 457-9917 E-mail: wallanch@caribsurf.com Dear Compass , Regarding the article in the August 2007 issue of Compass by Aubrey Millard about his night-time entrance to Christiansted Harbor, St. Croix. Sailors who know the area advise against doing this, as through the years so many boats have grounded here (some ending up as total losses) that no one has an accurate count. A medical emergency, however, made it imperative that Veleda enter at night. With it blowing hard, and a strong westerly set of the current, heaving to off the harbour entrance was not an option. The use of a 20-year-old pilot book is acceptable, IF it were written by someone familiar with the area. But looking at the courses sailed by Veleda , it seems the author of the pilot book was not familiar with the island of St. Croix nor the entrance to Christiansted Harbour. Aubrey and his wife safely got into the harbour and anchored by dint of good navigation, good piloting, good boat handling and a bit of good luck. I say this as Veleda passed between Buck Island and St. Croix; luckily they did not hit Channel Rock that has nailed a number of boats in the past. The sailing directions in my first guide „ the privately printed 1964 Yachtsmans Guide to the Virgin Islands „ recommended using what was locally referred to as the schooner channelŽ. The guide said, roughly, Head for the radio tower by Fort Louise Augusta, stand on in, leave flashing red 4 to starboard continue on in until you are very close aboard, run along the shore and gradually bear off.Ž Then directions are given to the anchorage west of Protestant Cay. These directions were repeated in my 1966 Cruising Guide to the Lesser Antilles , and again in its 1979 revision and expansion. In the 79 guide I strongly recommended not following the normal marked channel (as Veleda did), as using this channel requires two right-angle turns, a 500-yard run dead downwind, and usually two gybes „ and then still you are not home free as you can easily clip the unbuoyed Little Middle Ground. These directions have been re-printed in all Streets Guides since then, but in the later guides I said not to anchor west of Protestant Cay as the area is too crowded with local boats. Also to keep in mind is the fact that electronic charts are no better than the charts they are copied from. The C Map chart of St. Croix is taken from an inaccurate NOAA chart. I can say without fear of contradiction that the Imray Iolaire chart A234 is the most accurate chart of St. Croix available. The NOAA and BA charts of St. Croix have been compiled from surveys done in the middle 1930s, with updates. The Christiansted Harbor update is from a dredge companys 1990 survey that I discovered was in error when we were making our A234 in the early 1990s. In about 1990 Captain Nick Castruccio, USN Ret., said that, racing in the regattas off St. Croix, the locals had an advantage as they knew where the coral heads and shoals were and could rock hopŽ much better than visiting yachtsmen. He asked if Imray could do a very detailed chart from Salt River, east. We agreed to do it as I knew that in the middle 1980s NOAA had done an unpublished but very detailed survey of St. Croix, so detailed that they lost two inshore survey boats in the surf! Captain Nick promised that he and other members of the St. Croix Yacht Club would help. I was given a copy of the dredge companys survey by the Harbor Master. The eastern side of the harbour did not look correct, so I got in the dinghy and, with a sounding pole, checked and found eight feet of water to within a boat length of shore, where the dredge companys survey showed shoal water. I asked questions and discovered the reason for the discrepancy. The dredge company needed a place to moor their equipment clear of the channel, so they dredged the eastern side of the harbour. But that was not allowed on their EPA permit, so they left it off their survey. D.M. Street, Jr Ireland Letter of the Month STREETS GUIDES

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FEBRUARY 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 49 The Missionary Position is where you lie back on your air-conditioned bunk and ask „ well, beg‘ might be a better word „ for the money to maintain a cruising lifestyle. It works; thats all you have to do, and I jest not. Now, in case you are thinking that such a cruising lifestyle means scraping by on a tiny sailboat, no air conditioning, no refrigeration, rowing ashore, only drinking at happy hour and eating enough for the week at Tuesdays pot luck, let me disillusion you. I am talking an immaculately maintained 70-foot trawler yacht, the best marina in town, a center-console RIB dink with a 50-horsepower outboard, a shoreside vehicle to go shopping at the mall in the next town, and a night guard to keep an eye on it all „ just for starters. This is not a scam: cruisers Brent and Sharon Borthwick are right up front about what they are doing with the money they receive in donations. Their website is complete with donate nowŽ buttons and, if you are moved to help these good folk, you can do so by credit card. Here are some excerpts from their website, www.windword.ca, to give you an idea of their cruising needs: January 2007 I do not have the money to haul the boat, but we have to do it. I do not have the money to fuel it up, but we have to do it. I just keep putting it all on my Credit Card, but how are we going to pay the bill? I know God will provide, but He wants me to tell you our needs. I am asking, please, anything you can do to help. Whatever God lays on your heart, if you are not sure it is God and it might be you, then double it, triple it, I dont know, maybe just give the whole bank! I am praying that $10,000.00 to come in right now. Maybe $20,000.00, we really need it now. I do not think you have ever heard me ask like this before, but if you usually give $25.00, maybe give $250.00 or $2,500.00. Maybe take $100.00 to $1,000.00, or even $10,000.00. We have no option if we continue as missionaries to make money other than through you all. We are Gods servants asking His people for help. Can you imagine just 20 people at $1,000.00 each is $20,000.00! Please if you can, help us ƒ. May 2007 Please be in prayer as we are all exhausted. The stress of all that has happened, plus all the work we have been doing on the boat while getting it fixed. I am tired and my herniated disk in my back has been acting up again, so a fair amount of pain. I checked on the new invasive disk surgery down here, 30 minutes and up and about the same day, $25,000.00!!! Why does Canada do the old-fashioned surgery with 6 weeks recovery and lots of pain, plus waiting how long for the surgery? I have put all our expenses on my Master Card, and I do not know how we will pay the bill when it comes in. Diesel fuel, bottom repair, generator repair, stocking up on food, dockage, etc.ƒ plus I have yearly boat insurance due the first week of June, about $7,000.00.ƒ June 2007 Pray for our finances as we need to pay $7,900.00 for boat insurance for another year, due by June 10th. Seems impossible as our accounts are depleted, but I know God is in control, and He does not want us to stop now. We need fuel for the boat for this last leg of this part of Gods ministry journey! Pray for strength. July 2007 Please pray as we need to purchase a vehicle as soon as possible. We use the little boat to get to the villages on the river, but we need a vehicle to get to the churches and 100s of other villages in the area, and for teams. There is a perfect small Chevy pickup for sale, four doors and seats 6, 4x4, turbo diesel so good on fuel, year 2000, and Guatemalan registry which is what we need. It is a little rough with dents, paint fade, oil leaks, etc., but it would be a great vehicle for us. They want $7,000 US, but I would like to try to get it for $5,000 if I can afford it. Another step of faith, so for now we walk, but please be in prayer about a vehicle for us. Now, I always had a vision of missionaries as folk who moved into a community and lived, more or less, as the local people lived. It involved a lifestyle that really didnt do much for me, which goes to show how out of date I am. Nowadays, you swan up a river through the jungle, with all those horsepowers of engines guzzling fuel, and arrive in the local village cool, crisp and neat „ fresh from your luxury yacht, full of the love of God. Cool. If you dont believe that its possible to fund luxury cruising by having a lot of people praying for you and exercising their credit cards, have a look at www.windword.ca. Now are you a believer? There is a down side though. You have to preach to parents who send their children to Casa Guatemala, an orphanage, during the week because they cant afford to feed them at home. The volunteers at the orphanage live in rough wooden dormitories with no electricity, which means no fan, let alone air conditioning, and have to time their showers for the couple of hours a day the water is on, and manage with candles after dark. But I am sure that when they have read the Borthwicks web page theyll be moved to spare a little towards these cruisers pressing needs. Why am I left feeling that somethings wrong here? Perhaps I am just having one of my cynical days. WHATS ON MY MIND The Missionary Position for Cruisersby Julia Bartlett The Borthwicks, whose liveaboard missionary lifestyle is funded by donations solicited on their website Cruising on a heavenly budget: the 70-foot, fully loaded JirehWWW.WINDWORD.CA (2)

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FEBRUARY 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 50 ST. THOMAS YACHTSALESCompass Point Marina, 6300 Est. Frydenhoj, Suite 28, St. Thomas, U.S.V.I. 00802 Tel: (340) 779-1660 Fax: (340) 779-2779 yachts@islands.viSail33 1973 Pearson 10M Sloop, refit, new eng. paint,$ 33,500 40 1984 Endeavour sloop, Well maintained, ready to cruise,$ 95,000 49 1979 Transpacific Ketch, Bluewater cruiser, Excellent cond.$199,000 55 1956 Custom Yawl, Excellent charter business, CG cert for 18$250,000Power30 1987 Luhrs Alura, Lobster/Picnic boat, diesel$ 49,500 31 1998 Sea Ray Sundancer, Excellent Condition $ 85,000 43 1990 Marine Trader, A/C, radar, never chartered$129,500 44 1986 Tollycraft MY, Cockpit, twin cats$110,000Call, fax or visit our website for a complete list of boats for sale www.stthomasyachts.com 40 1984 Endeavour Sloop $95,000 49 1979 Transpacific Ketch $199,000 Read in Next Months Compass :Hummingbirds Cuban Cruise The Chartering Life Revisited Notes from a Carriacou Sloopƒ and more! Because of the large new marina being established in St. Georges Lagoon, this subject is very much in the forefront of everyones minds in Grenada. But before people get too excited and start offering half-baked, and in some cases impossible, schemes to eliminate yacht-generated pollution in St. Georges Lagoon, let us look at the situation harbor by harbor in the Eastern Caribbean, starting with St. Thomas and continuing south to Grenada. Fifteen years ago in St. Thomas, USVI, I was walking along the Charlotte Amalie waterfront, when a pick-up truck driver offered me a lift. It was an old friend whom I had not seen in 20 years. During that time he had gone to the States, obtained an engineering degree, returned and had been working as an engineer for the VI government for many years. The subject of sewage treatment came up. He reported that, at that time, St. Thomass sewage treatment plant was so overloaded that 50 percent of it went into the sea untreated. Often the plant was broken down so all the sewage went in untreated. In the light of that, the amount of sewage generated by yachts in St. Thomas Harbor was immaterial. I mention this because the same situation exists today in many islands where population growth has out-stripped the infrastructure. Although land-based sources may create the most marine pollution, yachts do contribute. In years gone by, although none had holding tanks, yachts were smaller and fewer. Their gradual discharge of sewage dissipated, broke down and caused little problem. But the exponential expansion of yachting, including increasing numbers of mega-yachts, has caused a real problem in some places. Hopefully the USVI authorities will enact a law similar to that of the British Virgin Islands which states that holding tanks cannot be discharged within 1,000 yards of shore. This means that sewage in any quantity is discharged in deep water where there is a strong current. The effluent is quickly dissipated, breaks down and is not a pollution problem. Yacht-generated pollution has been less of an issue in some harbors than in others. In Christiansted, St. Croix, for example, the ocean swell comes in over the long reef, filling a harbor that has as its only exit a narrow channel. This creates a really good self-cleaning current. Wickams Cay, Tortola, on the other hand, is an enclosed body of water with no circulation and plenty of yachts. But still, in comparison to the shore-created pollution the yacht pollution is minimal. When Village Cay Marina was being built there, the marinas general manager at the time, John Ackland, hired a local team to do a survey of all the houses on the hillside that drains into Wickhams Cay. They tallied all the out-houses, the homes with improperly installed septic systems or no septic tanks at all, how many people lived in each house, etcetera. The result was rather horrific; the amount of sewage draining into the harbor produced by the houses on the watershed was infinitely greater than whatever could be produced by the yachts. Maya Cove, the home of the BVI bareboat fleets, I do not think has too much of a problem as crews join a bareboat and depart, or arrive on a bareboat and depart; no large group of people resides permanently on boats in Maya Cove. Marina users are, of course, encouraged to use shoreside toilets. Most other harbors in the BVI are wide open, with plenty of natural water flow. Likewise, Anguilla, Barbuda, Statia, St. Kitts, Nevis, Montserrat and Dominica all have large, open harbors. But Simpson Lagoon, St. Maarten, has a problem. It is an enclosed body of water, shallow, without sufficient tidal circulation through its two narrow entrances to flush it out. In addition to land-based pollution, to my knowledge there is as yet no no dischargeŽ rule, or even one forbidding the emptying of holding tanks. Each year this lagoon becomes more polluted, to the point that I do not know which is worse: to fall into it and drown or fall into it and be rescued. Jolly Harbour in Antigua is one of the most environmentally friendly marina developments in the Caribbean. The way they save, use and re-use every drop of rainwater that falls is too long to describe here, and besides that, they have an excellent sewage-disposal plant. Again, boaters are urged to use shoreside toilet facilities, thus minimizing yachtinduced marine pollution. Hopefully the management will add a no dischargeŽ rule. Farther east, Antigua has a problem. Although the marinas there encourage use of their toilet facilities and offer a pump-out-truck service for holding tanks, in Falmouth Harbour I know of no regulation that actually requires yachts to go out of the harbor to discharge their holding tanks. As a result, an unknown quantity of yacht sewage is pumped directly into the harbor. Residents point out that annually, almost all the yachts have departed by June, leaving Falmouth Harbour virtually empty until late November when the yachts start arriving for the season. They report that during the summer, the harbour starts cleaning itself, to the point that by October it is a pleasure to swim in. But in November, the whole pollution process starts again. „Continued on next page WHATS ON MY MIND A Look at Marine Pollutionby Don Street

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FEBRUARY 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 51 CREW V ACANCIES! email: crew@tradewindscruiseclub.comTradeWinds Cruise Club operate a fleet of catamarans across six destinations in the Caribbean. We are the fastest growing charter company, operating TERM CHARTERS, all inclusive, 7 days. We are looking for crew, mainly teams in the form of a Captain and a Chef/Hostess. We prefer couples that are married OR have been living together for at least a year. The nature of the job is such that the better the understanding and teamwork between Captain and Chef the more successful your charters will be. Requirements: Captain with a Skipper’s licence. Chef/Hostess with a basic understanding of cooking. Dive master/ instructor for either the Captain and/or Chef is a plus. We offer full training onsite in the Caribbean. This is a FUN job with great earning potential. If you are willing to work hard and have a positive disposition to life this could be your DREAM job. Anyone with an interest is welcome to apply. If you would like more information about this job or send your CV to us, please use this email address: crew@tradewindscruiseclub.com or by mail to: Bequia Marina, P.O.Box 194BQ, Port Elizabeth, Bequia, St Vincent & the Grenadines Tel. St Vincent +784 457 3407 Tel. St Maarten +599 5510550 Call Ron Cooper (727) 3675004 € www.coopermarine.com CATAMARANS NEW 63 SAIL CAT SEATING FOR 90 PASSENGERSNEW€ 63 x 24 Power Cat USCG Stability test for 149 PAX € Available as single or double deck € Fast delivery € Twin Diesel Base Price $299,000 AVAILABLEFORIMMEDIATEDELIVERY All new Offshore 53 catamaran Twin diesel, 49 passengers, Base price $199,000 Join our growing list of on-line subscribers! 12 issues US$29.95, 24 issues US$53.95 Same price, same content — faster delivery!www.caribbeancompass.com Always enjoy the Compass which allows me to stay current on Ôde Caribbean ting'! Bob Mercer S/V Ooh La La „Continued from previous page English Harbour has less of a problem: the outer harbour is quite clean; only the inner harbour is stagnant and polluted. It was proposed in Nelsons time, 200 years ago, to dig a ditch through the narrow neck of land between English and Falmouth Harbours to provide water circulation to minimize pollution. This almost happened in the 1980s. Why it did not is too long a story to present here. Falmouth and English Harbors can be cleaned up considerably if the Government of Antigua would do as the BVI government: require all yachts to be 1,000 yards offshore before discharging their holding tanks. But would this drive the mega-yachts to St. Maarten, where they can discharge while in Simpson Lagoon? It is time for the yachting industry in St. Maarten and Antigua to co-operate and BOTH get their governments to pass a no holding-tank dischargeŽ law. In the French islands, the amount of sewage discharged by the yachts is minimal in comparison to the municipal sewage discharge. In St. Lucia, an independent survey done a number of years ago by a group from the UK showed that there, too, the majority of pollution was from land-based sources „ runoff from outhouses, poor septic tanks and untreated sewage from Castries and other towns. St. Lucia has, at present, the yacht-based pollution situation pretty much under control, however. When Rodney Bay Marina was built 25 years ago, they installed a state-of-the-art sewage treatment plant, adequate for the original marina. Like other marinas, they encourage yachtspeople to use the shoreside toilets. If the sewage treatment plant is expanded to take care of the expanded marina, and yachts with holding tanks are forbidden to discharge inside Rodney Lagoon, and the same thing is done in inner Marigot Bay, the situation in St. Lucia should be well under control. Except for Blue Lagoon, anchorages in St. Vincent are all open with plenty of current to dissipate discharge from marine toilets. In the Grenadines, too, nearly all anchorages are open with plenty of water flow. So all is well, as long as yachts with holding tanks do not discharge them until they are, as is required in the BVI, 1,000 yards offshore. The Tobago Cays Marine Park has a no dischargeŽ rule. Now we come to St. Georges Lagoon, Grenada. Pollution in this lagoon cannot be blamed on the yachts. When I first arrived in Grenada on Iolaire in March of 1961, the channel into the lagoon had been dredged only about a year previously. There were just two other boats in the lagoon: the 40-foot motorboat Papagayo with Dodd Gorman sitting on the stern, and a 45-foot gaff sloop owned by Laddie McIntyres older brother. But the lagoon was already well polluted by the run-off from outhouses and poor septic tanks and direct sewage from the local system. As years went by, the area around the lagoon became more and more populated and pollution increased accordingly. Port Louis Marina does have options, like building their own sewage treatment plant and urging those on yachts to use the marina toilets. Then make it an absolute rule that there can be no discharge from holding tanks within the lagoon. If it is impossible to build an adequate sewage treatment plant, another solution would be to run the sewage untreated through a LONG discharge pipe, long enough to reach deep water and the strong north-south current off the west coast of Grenada. On the south coast of Grenada, the harbors are large enough, and the yachting population small enough (so far) that sewage from yachts is not a problem and will not be a problem as long as yachts, especially mega-yachts, do not discharge their holding tanks in harbors. It is time for ALL the islands to enact the same law as has been enacted in the BVI: no discharge of holding tanks within 1,000 yards of shore.

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FEBRUARY 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 52 Bequia Antigua Grenada St Vincent St Vincent Curaao Martinique Caribbean Compass Market Place Barefoot Yacht Charters & Marine Centre Blue Lagoon, St VincentBareboats Ð Fully Crewed Yachts Ð ASA Sailing School Ð Full Service Marine Centre1-784-456-9526 / 9334 barebum@caribsurf.com www.barefootyachts.com SAILMAKING, RIGGING, ELECTRONICS Grenada Marine € Spice Island Marine Tel/Fax (473) 439-4495 turbsail@spiceisle.com LE MARIN, MARTINIQUE € GRENADAwww.caraibe-greement.fr cgmar@wanadoo.frPhone: +(596) 596 74 8033 Cell: (596) 696 27 66 05 R I G G I N GS H I P C H A N D L E R Boatyard Le Marin Martinique Phone (+596) 596 74 77 70 carenantilles.marin@wanadoo.fr www.carenantilles.com Centre de Carenage 97290 Le MarinTel: +596 (0) 596 74 74 80 Fax: +596 (0) 596 74 79 16 carene.shop@wanadoo.fr THE SPECIALIST FOR BOAT MAINTENANCE IN MARTINIQUE For a safe berthÉSERU BOCA MARINA We sell and service Yamaha enginesstbarba@attglobal.net www.santabarbaraplantation.com THIS COULD BE YOURMARKET PLACE AD Book it now: tom@caribbeancompass.com TechNick Ltd.Engineering, fabrication and welding. Fabrication and repair of stainless steel and aluminium items. Nick Williams, Manager Tel: (473) 536-1560/435-7887 S.I.M.S. Boatyard, True Blue, Grenada technick@spiceisle.com Trinidad High quality indigenous BANANA CRAFT & DJEMBE DRUMSwww.nzimbu-brown.com Tel: 457-1677 / 531-2897 email: nzimbu2000@yahoo.com

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FEBRUARY 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 53 Caribbean Compass Market Place Caribbean-wide To advertise in Caribbean Compass Market Place, see list of island agents on page 4 or contact Tom at (784) 457 3409 € tom@caribbeancompass.com Marine Distributors www.IslandWaterWorld.com sales@IslandWaterWorld.com St Thomas, St Maarten, St Lucia, Grenada P: 599-544-5310 F: 599-544-3299 BEQUIATel: (784) 458 3041New Location at Gingerbread Café We are online:www.caribbeancompass.com

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FEBRUARY 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 54 A&C Yacht BrokersMartinique46 Admiral Yacht InsuranceUK44 Angostura Ltd.Trinidad15 Anjo InsuranceAntigua29 Art FabrikGrenada45 B & C Fuel DockPetite Martinique48 Barefoot Yacht ChartersSt. Vincent17 Basils BarMustique41 Bay Island YachtsTrinidad50 Bequia Sailing ClubBequia14 Bichik ServicesMartinique46 Bogles Round HouseCarriacou42 Budget MarineSint Maarten2 BVI Yacht SalesTortola50 Captain GourmetUnion Island40 Caraibe GreementMartinique9 Caraibe YachtsGuadeloupe46 CarenantillesMartinique21 Carene ShopMartinique28 CIRExpressSt. Maarten48 Cooper MarineUSA51 Corea's Food Store MustiqueMustique43 Curaçao MarineCuraçao7 Diesel OutfittersSt. Maarten32 DiginavMartinique28 Discovery MarigotSt.Lucia38 Dockwise Yacht Transport SarlMartinique10 Dominica Marine CenterDominica47 Dopco Travel Grenada25 Doris Fresh FoodBequia43 Douglas Yacht ServicesMartinique24 Down Island Real EstateCarriacou45 Doyle Offshore SailsTortola3 Doyle's GuidesUSA32 Echo Marine Jotun SpecialTrinidad5 Errol Flynn MarinaJamaica39 Falmouth Harbour MarinaAntigua23 Fernando's HideawayBequia40 Flying Fish VenturesGrenada45 Food FairGrenada40 Frangipani HotelBequia33 Fred MarineGuadeloupe33 Grenada MarineGrenada27 Grenadine Island VillaBequia49 Grenadines SailsBequia37 GRPro-CleanMartinique47 Horizon Yacht ManagementTortola8 Iolaire EnterprisesUK23/44 Island DreamsGrenada45 Island Water WorldSint Maarten56 Jack's BarBequia41 John CawseyBequia36 Johnson HardwareSt. Lucia35 Jones MaritimeSt. Croix30 KP MarineSt.Vincent30 Lagoon Marina HotelSt. Vincent11 Le Phare BleuGrenada18 Le ShipMartinique46 LIATCaribbean31 Lulley's TackleBequia37 Mac's PizzaBequia40 Maranne's Ice CreamBequia52 Bequia MarinaBequia37 McIntyre Bros. LtdGrenada30 Mid Atlantic Yacht ServicesAzores47 NavimcaVenezuela33 Northern Lights GeneratorsTortola53 Peake Yacht BrokerageTrinidad51 Perkins EnginesTortola13 Petit St. VincentPSV36 Ponton du BakouaMartinique28 Port Louis Grenada12 Porthole RestaurantBequia40 Prickly Bay MarinaGrenada29 Renaissance MarinaAruba22 Salty Dog Sports BarBequia42 Santa Barbara ResortsCuraçao6 Schip-O-CaseGuadeloupe46 Sea and SailGuadeloupe47 Sea ServicesMartinique16 Sevenstar Yacht TransportUK55 Shelter Bay MarinaPanama19 Silver DivingCarriacou48 Simpson Bay MarinaSt. Maarten25 Sopers HoleTortola34 Spice Island MarineGrenada26 St.Thomas Yacht SalesSt.Thomas50 SuperwindGermany11 SVG AirSt. Vincent33 Tikal Arts & CraftsGrenada44 Trade Winds CruisingBequia51 True Blue BayGrenada27 Turbulence SailsGrenada26 Tyrrel Bay Yacht HauloutCarriacou48 VemascaMargarita42 Virgin Gorda Yacht HarbourVirgin Gorda24 Voiles AssistanceMartinique46 VolvoMartinique20 Wallace & CoBequia29 Walliabou AnchorageSt.Vincent48 Xanadu MarineVenezuela42 Yacht Shipping Ltd.UK11 ADVERTISERS INDEX ADVERTISERS INDEX ADVERTISERLOCATIONPG# ADVERTISERLOCATION PG# ADVERTISERLOCATION PG# ADVERTISERLOCATION PG# CLASSIFIEDS COAST 34 , 1984, major refit and upgrades in '05 including new up sized rig, all electronics, separate diesel alternator/water-maker, batteries, fridge/freezer, interior, ground tackle, cockpit cushions/covers,radar/arch, dinghy/davits, far too much to list, must be seen, hauled in Antigua, well below current survey, asking 119,000 Canadian, for specs/pictures E-mail bentleysrolls@yahoo.ca VENUS 46, 1984 KETCH fiberglass, gc, new engine, very well equipped, excellent live aboard and cruiser US$199,000, lying St. Lucia. For more info and pictures E-mail venus46@live.com 33' STEEL CUTTER, MURRAY1984 Ted Brewer design, 3cyl Yanmar, self-steering, autopilot, solar, wind generator, watermaker, SSB, inverter, dinghy, outboard and much more. Cruise ready, located in St. Croix. Just completed 4 year Caribbean cruise. US$50,000 Tel (340) 626-2186 E-mail jddavison2004@yahoo.com Tel (784) 458-8888 FORMULA III 25' SPORTS FISHERMAN , 2001, excellent condition, 200HP Yamaha outboard; high spec including SS TTop, windshield, rod holders, bow rails,stereo, GPS. New upholstery end 2007. Valued US$35K will acceptclosest offer. Located Grenada Tel (473)-405-3827 or E-mail kletton@tvaconsultants.com 36' DUTCH STEEL CUTTER 1976 Profurl, Yanmar, B&G instruments & pilot, Lying Trinidad, repairs needed. Sacrifice US$7500/offers E-mail kenm@ufl.edu 1986 Beneteau 51 Nice condition, plenty of new upgrades, ready to sail, located Palm Island, SVG. Info on www.artandsea.com. Tel: (784) 458-8829 E-mail: palmdoc@caribsurf.com PEARSON 30' BUILT 1973 , new Yanmar 2GM20, new Awlgrip, 2 jibs, 2 mains, spinnaker, TV, CD, wheel steering, lots more. Good condition, OFFERS PLEASE!E-mail nicola111@bequia.net SUPER ATLANTA VIKING 27' Built England 1993, strong and comfortable, good condition, lying Margarita US$20,000 E-mail mashagruber@hotmail.com 2001 LAGOON 43 POWER CAT excellent condition, loaded electronics, 12'x21' upper deck w/full cover, 9 x 170w solar panels, 16 Trojan batteries, new inflatable dinghy w/10hp Mercury. US$329,000 Tel (868) 312-2993 E-mail zazenzafaun@hotmail.com 30 RAMPAGE EXPRESS Twin diesel engines 315hp ea. 5kw generator, AC, head, shwr, refrig/freezer, cook Top/Corian counters, V-berth & double bunks, bait well, tackle storage, radar, GPS, auto pilot.Trinidad Tel (868) 680-4210 PACIFIC SEACRAFT CREALOCK 34 highly regarded blue water cruiser US$75K Details on www.petethenomad.com Tel (473) 415-1026MASTS TURBULENCE GRENADAhas 3 masts suitable for mono/multihulls. 16-17 & 22 meters. Tel (473) 439-4495/415-8271 E-mail turbsail@spiceisle.com36HP YANMAR OUTBOARD DIESELTel (868) 650-1914 AVON 19FT JET SKI DINGHY 84hp, 2 years old. US$10,000 OBO E-mail info@FirstMateLtd.com FRIENDSHIP BAY, BEQUIA Lovely 1250 sq ft. cottage, 100 yards from beach. 2 master bedrooms, 1 guest bedroom, full kitchen, laundry, level with road no stairs! 12,558 sq ft of land, fenced with mature fruit trees. US$320,000, Term rental available. E-mail jocelyne.gautier@wanadoo.fr CARRIACOU, ONE ACRE LOTS and multi acre tracts. Great views overlooking Southern Grenadines and Tyrrel Bay www.caribtrace.com N.W. GRENADA Recently refurbished 3 bedroom house on 1/4 acre land 300 yds from sea overlooking Crayfish Bay, quiet location, good anchorage, US$200,000 Tel (473) 442-1897 BEQUIA , Lower Bay, Bells Point, House and Land. Serious buyers only. Sale by owner. Call (784) 456 4963 after 6pm. E-mail lulleym@vincysurf.com PUERTO LA CRUZ, VENZ. INSURANCE SURVEYS, electrical problems and yacht deliveries. Tel Cris Robinson (58) 416-3824187 E-mail crobinson@telcel.net.veNIMRODS RUM SHOP, GRENADAEggs, bread, cheese, ice on sale. Taxi service available, propane tank fill-up, personal laundry service. Happy Hour every day from 56pm Moonlight party every full moon. VHF 16 BEQUIA BEQUIA CANVAS Interior/exterior/customized canvas specialist Tel (784) 457-3291 E-mail beqcan@caribsurf.comFEELING STRESSED?www.clearthemind.5u.comGrenada (473) 414-1274 CARIBBEAN VIRTUAL OFFICE providing concierge, catering, errand services, mail management and forwarding, bill payment, purchasing, sourcing, reservations and a host of other services. Tel (473) 404-2707ST. VINCENT NZIMBU ARTS & CRAFTS for high quality indigenous banana craft and djembe drum Tel (784) 457-1677/5312897 www.nzimbu-browne.com E-mail nzimbu2000@yahoo.com UNDERWATER DIVING SERVICES salvage/emergency/moorings/li ft bags. All underwater services Tel (473) 537-9193/538-4608 E-mail fashionboat@yahoo.fr WATERMAKERS Complete systems, membranes, spares and service available at Curacao and Puerto La Cruz, Venezuela. Check our prices at www.watercraftwatermaker.comIn PLC Tel (58) 416-3824187 YACHT CHARTER BUSINESS BVI Turnkey, long term, profitable Sail & SCUBA business with broad Trade License, all operating permits and room to expand. This is a limited company that allows all assets to be transferred by shares. Sale includes a large 12 Pax multihull which averages 20 to 30-week long charters per year with an approx turnover of $400,000. In Dec '07 boat was surveyed at above average condition structurally and cosmetically. This is an exceptional opportunity to establish yourself in the charter capital of the world. Asking price $600,000 www.charteryachtsforsaleonline.com SERVICE ADMINISTRATOR needed for busy Marine Industrial Service business in Road Town, Tortola, BVI. Must have excellent organizational skills, ability to write service reports and prepare warranty claims, strong communicational skills, project management and cost accounting skills, and the ability to handle quality control issues. Mechanical background with marine experience preferred. Fax CV (284) 494-6972 E-mail tom@partsandpower.com TORTOLA ARAGORNS STUDIO looking for 2 employees.Welder/Workshop manager and shop assistant required at our busy Art Studio in Trellis Bay, BVI.Ideal candidates are a couple with artistic inclination living on their own boat and looking for shore side employment in a US$ economy. Still interested to hear from a lone welder! Info contact Aragorn Tel (284) 495-1849 Email dreadeye@surfbvi.com MARINE TECHNICIAN WANTED IMMEDIATELY Respected Marine Engineering Co, in Grenada seeking all around experienced technician for diesel, electrical, electronics, water makers & refrigeration. Ideal for cruiser or independent tech looking for the stability of an established company in Grenada CV to; E-mail enzamarine@caribsurf.com Tel (473) 439-2049 FAMOUS POTATOES 2005 Admiral 38 Catamaran. For Sale Summer 2008. You can follow her adventure now atweb.mac.com/famouspotatoes2EC$1/US 40¢ per word … include name, address and numbers in count. Line drawings/photos accompanying classifieds are EC$20/US$8. CLASSIFIED ADS BOAT FOR SALE WANTED BUSINESS FOR SALE SERVICES PROPERTY FOR SALE MISC. FOR SALE BOATS FOR SALE

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FEBRUARY 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 55 IJMUIDEN € SOUTHAMPTON € GIBRALTAR € MALLORCA € FORT LAUDERDALE € CARIBBEANYACHT TRANSPORT OVER SEVEN SEAS www.sevenstar.nl headoffice tel; +31 20 4488590 € uk representative tel; +44 23 80223671 Yacht transport is an art May 10-20 2008 Tortola > Southampton Tortola > Palma & La Spezia 071015-01B Sevenstar ad CC.indd 1 19-10-2007 15:39:50

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Published by Compass Publishing Limited, St. Vincent & the Grenadines, and printed by Trinidad Publishing Company Limited