Citation
Caribbean Compass

Material Information

Title:
Caribbean Compass the Caribbean's monthly look at sea & shore
Place of Publication:
Bequia St. Vincent and the Grenadines
Publisher:
Compass Pub.
Publication Date:
Copyright Date:
2009
Frequency:
Monthly
regular
Language:
English
Physical Description:
v. : ill. ; 35 cm.

Subjects

Subjects / Keywords:
Boats and boating -- Periodicals -- Caribbean Area ( lcsh )
Yachting -- Periodicals -- Caribbean Area ( lcsh )
Genre:
serial ( sobekcm )
periodical ( marcgt )
Spatial Coverage:
Saint Vincent and the Grenadines

Record Information

Source Institution:
University of Florida
Holding Location:
University of Florida
Rights Management:
Copyright Compass Pub. Permission granted to University of Florida to digitize and display this item for non-profit research and educational purposes. Any reuse of this item in excess of fair use or other copyright exemptions requires permission of the copyright holder.
Resource Identifier:
54085008 ( OCLC )
1605-1998 ( ISSN )

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SEPTEMBER 2007 NO. 144


Carriacou Regatta Fes
See story on page 14
:


al 2007
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New Rules for Yachts in CARICOM
Yachts traveling from country to country within much of the English-speaking
Eastern Caribbean are looking at more paperwork.
Legislation has been passed which requires all air and sea carriers to submit passen-
ger information in advance when arriving at, and departing from, each of ten
Caribbean Common Market (CARICOM) member states. Participating CARICOM
member states are Jamaica, Antigua & Barbuda, St. Kitts & Nevis, Dominica,
Barbados, St. Lucia, St. Vincent & the Grenadines, Grenada, Trinidad & Tobago and
Guyana. These countries are collectively known as a "Single Domestic Space" (SDS).
Compass is informed that the term "sea carriers" includes both private and
charter yachts.
To comply with the new regulation, you fill out a form (available by registering at
www.caricomeapis.org) which asks for information such as passengers' names,
nationalities and passport numbers, and the vessel's dates and times of departure
and arrival.
There are three ways the form can be submitted:
* By sending as an e-mail attachment to maritime@impacsjrcc.org
* By filling it in on-line
* By faxing it to (246) 228-4040.
When arriving in the SDS from a port outside of the SDS, the form must be submitted
no later than 24 hours before arrival.
When departing from the SDS to a port outside of the SDS, the form must be submit-
ted no later than 15 minutes after departure.
When traveling between countries within the SDS, the form must be submitted no
later than one hour before departure.
For more information contact Diane Hazzard at (246) 429-7931 or
diane. hazzardimpacsjrcc, org.
The Dean Report
Hurricane Dean swept through the channel between the islands of St. Lucia and
Martinique on August 17th as a Category 2 storm. According to the US National
Hurricane Center, at 5:00AM local time the center of Hurricane Dean was located
near latitude 14.3 north, longitude 60.9 west. Madmum sustained winds were near
87 knots with higher gusts.
Continued on next page


Usually unrffled, the sea offTapion Point on St. Lucia's northwest coast was
whipped into breakers by hurricane force winds extending some 25 miles from
Hurricane Dean's eye



r -
We are fortunate to have such
a guaranteed excellent read
every month.
I Richard Roxburgh
s/v Mirounga

Join our growing list of on-line subscribers!
12 issues US$29.95, 24 issues US$53.95
Same price, same content faster delivery!

Swww.caribbeancompass.com


Cover Photo: MERRIMAN/BARTHOLOMEW
Carriacou Regatta Festival 2007


C


MPASS


The Caribbean's Monthly Look at Sea & Shore
www.caribbeancompass.com


Nice Nevis!
Tropical trail treks.................24
rc 1-.' -
O N "^^i5^^--^^^^ _. ^-^ _^^fcl-0B^^a


Carib Canoe Trip
Gli Gli in the Leewards.............6

Trinidad & Tobago
'We're glad we came!'.............21

.i r- i


What's a 'CUC'?
Cuba's Unique Cruising.........22


Port Antonio
Jamaican jaunt base.............26

Injury at Sea
And a silver lining ...............34


II.DEPARMENTS.


Business Briefs.....................9.
Eco-News...............................10
Regatta News....................... 1
Meridian Passage ..............19
Destinations .........................21
All Ashore............................24
Sailors' Horoscope ..............30
Island Poets ..........................30


r"' I ,I...
.. I
Tel: (784) 457-3409, Fax: (784) 457-3410,
compass@caribsurf.com
www.caribbeancompass.com
Editor. ................................... Sally Erdle
sally@carlbbeancompass.com
Assistant Editor ...................Elaine Ollivierre
jsprat@caribsurf.com
Advertising & Distribution ........Tom Hopman
tom@carlbbeancompass.com
Art, Design & Production......Wilfred Dederer
wlde@caribbeancompass.com
Accounting ............................Debra Davis
debra@caribbeancompass.com
Compass Agents by Island:





i. .... .. ... .
Ii i 1.. ,,


Cruising Crossword ...............31
Dolly's Deep Secrets.............32
Book Reviews.................32, 33
Cooking with Cruisers...........39
Readers' Forum ...................42
Classified Ads......................44
Advertisers' Index ...............44
Calendar.............................. 46


S m....i.. 1 i i ni i i ii .








xanadunarne@ ntnet. . .


ISSN 1605- 1998


I C I R I B B E A N I








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S...... i .. page
Frc... I I:,. ,-,,:1.i- :'~I :I cker reports that although some buildings were dam-
aged and trees toppled, and the island suffered considerable losses to banana
and sugarcane crops, the yachting sector fared relatively well. Her own Sea
Services chandlery in Fort de France was unharmed, and Ciarla says, "Annie Zaghes
of the Ponton du Bakoua marina in Trois Ilets reports no infrastructure damage. The
Ponton is up and running, as are the restaurant and the mooring buoy system.
Owners of boats in front of the Ponton had moved them to safe hurricane holes
and Mme. Zaghes has not heard of any damage to them."
Ciarla also spoke with manager Eric Jean-Joseph of Marin Yacht Harbor on the
island's south coast. "Eric reports that the marina at Marin suffered absolutely no
important damage, and all the boats moored correctly within the marina were
unharmed. All the marina docks held and marina buildings resisted the wind. The
various services of Marin village were, for the most part, also saved from destruction.
"However, about 30 boats anchored out in the Bay of Marin were swept away, and
four sank. Eric notes that owners who had problems with their boats after the pas-
sage of Hurricane Dean are owners who did not adequately prepare their boats.
The worst of it is that these owners, by their negligence, have caused damage to
other yachts which would otherwise have had no problems."
From St. Lucia, Lee Kessell reports that at the popular anchorage of Pigeon Island,
the shorelines on both sides of the causeway were battered, with the bay side
being eaten away by many feet. The jetty was severely damaged, and some dam-
age was done to virtually all of the National Park structures. The Park will re-open
slowly as areas are restored. The new dock at nearby Gros Ilet village lost its wood-
en planking. However, it was reported that the dock had been designed to lose its
planking before the stress of the waves could damage the concrete structure, and
restoring the planking is a simple job.
Also in St. Lucia, Rodney Bay Marina manager Cuthbert Didier reports that the marina,
located inside a lagoon, "stood up to the onslaught, successfully sheltering more than
200 yachts." Cuthbert said the marina had put its own emergency plan successfully
into effect. "We were able to allow each vessel to tie up in a double slip so Rodney
Bay Marina was able to berth 115 vessels in slips, and another 95 on dry dock. We
kicked in our emergency plan and everything worked -there was no damage to
the facility." Cuthbert complimented all the staff, dock attendants, security and boat-
yard staff for their work in ensuring that each vessel was properly secured. He said:
"Rodney Bay Marina markets itself as safe and secure and our staff has lived up to this
promise in this storm. We have braved several storms in the past and our track record
proves that we are in fact a safe haven for yachts in times of a storm."
Cuthbert raised the matter of re-insurers who were reluctant to cover yachts berthed
in this part of the Caribbean. He said: "We run a marina that is ideally located and
while people are quick to say that we are in the hurricane belt, we have proven that
we can survive very bad weather. We have also proved that the decision of re-
insurers against covering yachts in the south of the Caribbean is misguided."
In Castries Harbour, a fishing boat was washed up onto the road and against the mar-
ket steps, and a small old iron ship was washed onto the rocks along the shore near the
Customs shed. Lee Kessell echoes Eric Jean-Joseph's sentiments: "The owners of derelict
vessels should be liable for the damage they cause." She also says, "Since the man-
groves and reefs of Pointe Seraphine were destroyed and given over to the building of
the large shopping complex, complete with its breakwater, the Petit Carenage (Vigie
Creek) has suffered grievously. The storm surge sweeps unmolested right through to the
wharves and docks and whereas the mangroves absorbed the onslaught, the break-
water now whips the waves right into the Carenage. The Coalpot Restaurant, recently
closed for two months for a remake, is now destroyed, and the docks along with it."
The inner part of Marigot Bay on the west coast of St. Lucia lived up to its reputation
as a hurricane hole. The southern edge of the eye of Hurricane Dean hit Marigot at
4:00AM, with winds gusting to 75 knots from the southwest and five-metre breaking
seas sweeping into the outer part of the Bay. In the inner bay, The Marina at
Marigot Bay and the mangroves were packed with yachts seeking shelter. Molly
McDaniel reports: "No serious damage was caused to any yacht in Marigot Bay
and any minor damage was only caused by inadequately moored boats in the
mangroves. The Marina and Marina Village, Discovery at Marigot Bay, Chateau
Mygo, JJ's Paradise and the Rainforest Hideaway were completely undamaged.
Doolittle's at the Marigot Beach Club lost a jetty and suffered some roof damage
but opened for business as usual on the following evening. The Shack restaurant,
built over the waters of the outer part of the bay, is badly damaged."
Continued on next page


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Continuedfrom previous page
The Marina remains ready should severe weather
threaten the island again.
Farther south in St. Lucia, at the Soufriere Marine
Management Area, manager Kai Wulf reports: "We
lost three yacht moorings during the passage of
Hurricane Dean and the Soufriere Foundation jetty is
damaged. The use of the facility has been prohibited
until further notice. But the waterfront has already
been cleaned up by the fire service and the repair of
the jetty will start soon. A comprehensive assessment
has been scheduled, when we will dive key areas for
potential structural problems and environmental
impacts. However, we don't expect extensive storm-
related destruction, since there was no major wave
action within our area. Generally there has been little
disruption." Lee Kessell adds, "From Marigot south,
scuba diving was not affected to any degree."
Farther still from Dean's eye, Hubert Winston of the
Dominica Marine Center and the Dominica Marine
Association says: "Days before the hurricane was due
to hit the Leeward Islands, yachts were heading south
like crabs heading to their usual hole. For years, it has
been the cardinal rule that boats go south for cover
- without much regard to weather patterns. At the
Dominica Marine Center in Roseau, the last charter
yacht headed south to Martinique after off-loading its
passengers just 24 hours before Dean was due. Most
local boats waited until the last minute, probably
thinking Dean would change course or their boats
would be spared by divine intervention. Due to the
lack of suitable dry dock facilities, haul-out services,
trailers and lift mechanisms, the local port authority
was overwhelmed as these boatowners barraged the
port berth for the use of its crane, almost all at the
same time."
Meanwhile, at Portsmouth in the northern part of
Dominica, boats ranging from small wooden water
taxis to cargo vessels measuring up to 130 feet shel-
tered in the mouth of the Indian River, the deepest
river in the country. However, Hubert reports that a
new bridge planned to replace the old one over the
Indian River will not provide adequate clearance for
many vessels to reach safety.
Hubert notes that "the Dominica Marine Association is
working with all stakeholders in trying to create solu-


tions for local boat problems during hurricane season,
and also on making Dominica one of the Caribbean's
hottest spots for yachties." Plans are being made for a
marina in Dominica's Cabrits National Park that will
accommodate yachts up to 130 feet with modern
amenities and facilities.
From Guadeloupe, yacht rally organizer St6phane
Legendre reports little effect from the storm, which
brought a maximum wind of 45 knots. He notes that
some beaches and seaside restaurants suffered,
but Marina Bas du Fort at Pointe-d-Pitre was com-
pletely unaffected. He adds a navigation note:
"Caution should be observed at Ilet Gosier anchor-
age as a small wreck moved from one side of the
mooring to the other, losing its superstructure in the
process. The wreck is very visible on the west side of
the islet on a sand bank. The superstructure is lying
one foot underwater, close to the islet pontoon -
so watch out!"
And although Hurricane Dean passed just south of
Jamaica on its westward track across the Caribbean
Sea, Christine Downer of the Errol Flynn Marina at Port
Antonio on the island's northeast coast reports: "The
Errol Flynn Marina suffered no damage to its marina or
boatyard facilities. There were a number of vessels in
our wet slips and also on dry dock and there was no
damage to any of these boats. Port Antonio and Errol
Flynn Marina and Boatyard stand ready to accommo-
date yachts, and supply fuel and boatyard services
as usual."
Mexican Tall Ship Bound for Curagao
On invitation from the Curacao Sail Foundation, the
Mexican sail-training ship ARM Cuauhtemoc will visit
Curacao from October 13th to 18th.
For more information contact ceo@curacaosail com.
Excuse Us, We're Lost
The photo caption on page 24 of the August issue of
Compass should have read "Bocas del Toro", not
"Bocas del Rio". Apologies for any confusion caused.
Welcome Aboard!
In this issue of Compass we welcome aboard new
advertiser Sea and Sail of Guadeloupe, page 47.
Good to have you with us!


Boats Found Adrift
On August 20th, the catamaran S/V Kit-is (see photo)
was found approximately 51 nautical miles west of
Dominica by the oil tanker Goodrich Bay and towed


Dismasted but afloat, this cat was found adnft three
days after Hurricane Dean passed through the
St. Lucia Channel

to Point Lisas, Trinidad. It seems to have been dam-
aged by Hurricane Dean. Ship's papers in French were
found on board but the owner's name is indiscernible.
Anyone with knowledge of this yacht or its owners is
asked to contact the Caribbean Marine Association
at info@caribbeanmarineassociaiion. com
or (868) 634-4938
Also, a white 27-foot Albin Vega named Lorelei was
found adrift off the south side of St. John, US Virgin
Islands, on August 22nd. The sloop's anchor was
down, and a French passport in the name of Jacky
Millet was found aboard.
Anyone with knowledge of this yacht or its owners is
asked to contact Lindy at yachts@islands vi
or (340) 998-5149


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, S.3,1Ig
. .. . - 1 ,I ..1 1 1


G i Gli is a traditional Carib ..i.... gout
anoe, built in Dominica in I ... the
runk of -. -.;I-;-; t;--- 1997 she sailed
with ten Carib I... ...... Carib Territory
down the Windward Islands chain, through the
Orinoco Delta and into the river systems of northwest
Guyana. A~m p-n'rinn (-i Gliwon that voyage was
Carmela, i i I i ....... .built trading schooner,
which carried a multinational film and support crew.
One of the main purposes of that expedition was to
create awareness of the current status of the Carib
people. Expedition members researched the surviving
customs, language and material culture of the Caribs
in their original homelands.
On May 26th 2007, GU GU, with a crew of 11 Kalinago
Caribs from Dominica and accompanied by the support
vessel Fiddler's Green, arrived in Tortola after a 20-day


ii i .. .. i ii, i i i.i. i-from Antiguato
i i . - -, St. Barths, St.
Maarten/St. Martin, Anguilla and Sombrero.
Antigua
Having been based in Antigua for a year, and partic
:. ,,, ,, o Antigua Classic Yacht Regattas, the Gli
S. sad to leave its new friends. Our stay in
Antigua was a training ground for the new crew mem-
bers as well as an opportunity to generate awareness
ofi ...I ,i ... ... ..i... during the year, Gi Gl got
a I .11 ,,i, ,, ... i i. the local media and the
yachting community. It was the first time a truly
indigenous Caribbean boat had participated in the
ClassicY 1.1 II 1.. .. i I a lot of heads
turning. ... i , i . design sailing
amongst the most glamorous classic yachts in the
world, gave her Carib crew great pride and the fellow


others who did so much to make Antigua a perfect
starting point for our expedition.
On May 6th we sailed out of Nelson's Dockyard
accompanied by the topsail schooner Fiddler's Green,
owned and ... 1 by Captain Doug Watson of
Australia. L I i..i sail and with light winds on our
stern we set our course for Nevis.
Nevis
On arrival in Nevis our host, John Guilbert from the
Nevis Historical and Conservation Society, and a thick
crowd had gathered on the Charlestown waterfront.
Within minutes it seemed, we were at the Nevis muse
um, being officially greeted by the Hon. Minister
Hensley Daniel. We then gave the first of our present
stations in the packed courtyard.
We showed the BBC film of our first expedition and
the Gli Gli band performed traditional Carib music.


Under the masterful leadership of Paulinus
Frederick, the chief spokesperson and musician of
the expedition, speeches on Carib culture and lively
drumming performances were to become a major fea
ture of our trip.
Th "nr--itvf of the people of Nevis was over
I- i ....... I ... the Nevis Tourist Board to Teach, the
Carib taxi driver, and the Yearwood family of Oualie
Beach Resort: we were given everything from a free
lunch to island tours and resort accommodation. On
leaving we were very happy to give our hard-working
host John Guilbert a sail to St. Kitts -starting some
thing of a tradition on the trip of taking our hosts with
us to the next island!
St. Kitts
Once again blessed by good sailing conditions, we sailed
into Port Zante marina to the delight of a massive crowd


ATLANTIC OCEAN

w Ped#E 0"Im Rom
T __e_-_

EAA F LANTC





























The Gr G \ crew gave a musical performance in front ,,
wo hd s t muh of hs le
-Ys s ., ,r.






at." -y*N14

















participants a positive insight into an aspect of of excited school children, the public and the press. Our
Caribbean culture most barely knew existed. generous host here was Hazel Brooks from the St.
The Gi Gi crew gave a musical performance in front I i ii,,i. 1 I iii,,,, 1 1,.,
of the Admiral's Inn as a tribute to the late Desmond .,,.,,.,,, 11,.,,, .1, ,, 11i ii i i
Nicholson, who had spent much of his life researching I ii i i ,i ,1 11 1,
the pre-Columbian peoples of Antigua. His daughter, media. That first evening Paulinus spoke outside the
Nancy, was Gli Gi's special host, and we give our museum and the GUI i I, i,,, .... I ,,,. crowd
thanks to her as well as the Antigua National Trust, that was intrigued to ... -
the Yacht Club, the Yacht Club Marina staff and many -Continued on next page


by Aragorn Dick-Read


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V 1\1 %







Continued from previous page
Kalinago Caribs play an important part in the his
torical lore of St. Kitts, though sadly most noted for
their last stand against British and French invaders
and their final massacre at Bloody Point. It was here
we were taken the next day by a very interesting
Kittitian of old European descent, Greg Pereira. Greg

I I


Gli Gli's arrival in St. Kitts, where Kalinago Carib lore
plays an important part in local history


has a lifelong passion for the pre-Columbian history of
his island and has made a business sharing that
knowledge as a tour company owner. At Bloody Point
we were met by a large group of school children and
their teachers, who accompanied us on the walk to
Bloody River to see the site of the massacre and the
S 1 1 .. 1 on the cliffs. This was a
S i e in the group. John
.. . I i .r, led a ritual of
remembrance for I' I. 1 .. ... by singing the
ancient Carib spirit-calling songs. We also took the
opportunity to hold a minute's silence in honour of
Prince Hamlet, one of the key men on the 1997 Gli Gi
expedition, who passed away three years ago.
We left Bloody River to visit the old British fortress
at Brimstone Hill where, in one of the store rooms,
Paulinus discovered the bones of some of the victims
of the Bloody River massacre packed up in cardboard
boxes. We all gathered around to contemplate this
physical encounter with the remains of the souls we
had just been with. .- -... ..... I -i, k tobe
holding the skulls o: ,. I. I I. i** before.
Paulinus made a pledge to ensure that the authorities
of St. Kitts show due respect to his ancestors and
rebury their remains in a monument to their honor.
St. Kitts was a powerful experience for the Gli Gli
crew. We were sorry to have to leave so soon, but we
made sure we took our host Hazel for a sail in the har
bour and Greg a passage to Nevis, where we prepared
for the crossing to St. Barths.


St. Barths
The St. Barths -r-.71n: began with fair breeze. We
had an enlarged :i i. 1. .3 three yachts from Antigua
had caught up with us: Rush, Jadie and Cooie. This
-mera crew the first opportunities to shoot
... I riddler's Green sailing together.
We were alsc 1 1 f the extra safety boats, had we
needed them. I' most dangerous point of sail is
dead downwind in rolling seas and as we lost sight of
St. Kitts in the Sahara haze the swells started to pick
up, nearly swamping us a couple of times. Etiene
"Chalo" Charles, builder and captain of Gli Gli, called
for shortened sail, so we dropped the sprit and retied
the upper clew three feet lower down on the bamboo.
We haven't reduced sail in this way before; normally
we take out the sprit completely and sail with a fold
ed lateen rig. However it worked very well to reduce
the roll of the canoe as we slid down the swells, allow
ing us to continue safely through the afternoon heat
to St. Barths.
Having waited a while at the eastern tip of the island


for Fiddler's to catch up and deliver the drums and
cameraman, we made our way into Gustavia. We were
greeted by i. . .... ... 1.... 1 se to the
elite of St. I .. I.- ... i.. i . .. I i .. I- Lou Lou
and Jenny Magras, our very gracious host Daniel
Blanchard (an ex-mayor, now in charge of Club
UNESCO), Raymond, Lou Lou's brother (another ex
mayor), and the current mayor, Bruno Magras, and
his deputy Yves Greaux. A bond of language was
immediately made between the Carib crew and our
hosts, who all spoke the same Creole French.
The Gli Gli crew was given very special treatment by
Club UNESCO. We were accommodated in the munic
ipal lodge, used for visiting sports teams, and we were
provided with a mini-van. Our cultural expedition
turned into something of i i, 1. ..- ;i f;
a few days, a big change :. ,,, I, ,, i ..
and hammock-and-mat sleeping routine aboard
Fddler's Green.
The pre Columbian heritage of St. Barths is some
what lost in the cosmopolitan luxuries of this once
tranquil island. Aside from historical records of the
first settlers being forced off the island by Carib war
riors and the few artifacts in the museum, there is lit
tle evidence of Carib culture, except, as we discovered,
that the traditional fishing boats of St. Barths were
once dugout sailing canoes.
For an island with no trees to speak of this was a
strange choice of vessel. We learned from Daniel and
his cousin Edouard, the pirogue, or dugout, hulls were
S. .. 1. from Guadeloupe or Dominica and then
i .-1.. I.. I ..I fishing boats on St. Barths by the appli
cation of frames and boardage to raise the freeboard.
By co-incidence, before Daniel knew anything about
Gli Gli's intention to visit St. Barths, he and his cousin
had ordered the building of one of these boats. They
had contacted Prosper Paris in the Carib Territory of
Dominica and commissioned an 18-fc t i- i; t 1
made. Prosper gave the job to Chalo, .. ., i, ,
Before we arrived, Chalo had finished his work and
shipped the hull to St. Barths, where we met it set up
and being worked on in Edouard's workshop. They
were very excited to have the two master canoe
builders of the Caribs and their apprentice sons come
to view the work. It was very interesting to see a canoe
being made in a neat workshop with all available tools;
you could see Chalo and Papa Merlin's eyes light up at
the sight of it.
The next day we went up into the bush at la Grand
Fond, to cut some poywe (white cedar) ribs to attach
the boardage. The moon was good and the chain-saw
working. It was fun to go "en bois" again with the Gli
Gli canoe-buildi.r- t- ;1- ---ti ir new friend,
looking for the : .. -h1. i I I .... I the job.
St. Maarten
After taking our hosts for a sail on Gli Gli, we had to
move on. There was a strong wind and rolling sea, so














At various island stops
here Phillipsburg, St.
Maarten the Gli Gli
band performed tradi
tional Carib music







after a short stop at the dry and rocky Isle de Fourche,
we reduced Gli Gli's sail to a lateen and flew the 15
miles downwind into Philipsburg, St. Maarten, catch
ing a good sized tuna en route.
St. Maarten was fully awakened to the Gli Gli visit.
Our hosts, the St. Maarten Heritage Society, run by
Elsje Bosche, assisted by our friend Zdenka Kiric, had
spread the word and when we arrived to show our film
and perform some Carib music at the public library it
was standing room only. We are grateful to Ans Koolen,
who runs the library, for setting up this opportunity.
Many friends and family members of the crew, some
long lost, came out to see Gli Gli and give their support
to our mission. Being a regional economic centre, St.
Maarten has attracted many Kalinago Carib people
from Dominica, who came in search of work. Some of
them, under the leadership of Lindo Frederick, have
come together to form tli I. .i, 1.,,, ,I Group,
which raises money and .....-- I .... back in
the Carib Territory .
Continued on next page


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A highlight for the Gli Gli crew was a visit
to Anguilla's 'pre-Columbian cathedral' cave

great addition. What was to be a short trip around the
western tip of Anguilla and up the north side to Sandy
Ground turned 'it 1 1- .y's sail, delayed by a pic
nic lunch at one I .,,, 1 irresistible sandy coves,
and extended by a +-in? br-ze and an up-wind haul
to the bay. By late 11 ... .. still making long tacks
across the sound, we got the message on the radio
from our host, Damien Hughes, that the welcoming
crowd v II,,,. patientn. It was only when we got
within -..11 I i', beach that we quite understood
what he had meant by crowd -1,500 boat-loving
people of Anguilla had turned out and Gli Gli was
hauled up the beach by a hundred hands. It was an
overwhelming response that goes down in Gli Gli's his
tory as the mother of all welcomes!
The Anguillian people blessed us with shore-side
accommodation right behind the beach. Sydans guest
house donated two rooms, and former prime minister Sir
Emile Gumbs, who lives next door as his family has done
. gaveus .. i i i i ,
11 n Fiddler i 1 . -1 i .
up on the beach to be admired by the population.
Our next few days and nights were something close
to a fully fledged rock star tour, which doubled as an
intense Carib culture educational road show. One of
our first invitations was from Bankie Banks,


Continuedfrom previous page
Elsje Bosch, 1 ... behind the H it.: -- iety,
has created a -' i i museum full I ., We
had lunch there with various officials and the
International Association of Caribbean Archaeology's
Jay Haviser; acting Lt. Governor Mathias Voges
dropped by. An interesting debate ensued about pre
Columbian canoes and whether or not sails were in
use before Europeans arrived. No hard evidence has
been found of an ancient sail, possibly because sails
are usually made from -. t 1 .i t -i.1 For me,
the lack of evidence dc .. I ,'I II 11 IDssibility
that some form of sail was used before 1492. Trying to
paddle a canoe the size of Gli Gli, or bigger, in the
swells of the Caribbean Sea is no easy task. Chalo
firmly believes his ancestors used a sail of sorts. He
concedes that Gli Gli's sprit rig is quite possibly influ
enced by the early French Breton sail type, but it
could well be a modification of a pre-Columbian
design. The debate is on-going.
The museum has a steady contact with the Carib ter
ritory as Elsje buys crafts from there to sell in the shop.
At some point she had ordered a four-foot model pirogue
to be made for the museum's Carib display. Chalo spot
ted the canoe and recognized his own handiwork!
A gentle sail down the coast to Simpson Bay took us
to the beach bar Picante for another dinner and musi
cal event. The next day, after rowing under the bridge
and 1 --ii. 1 .il across the flat waters of the lagoon
we I i ,.,, i' side of the island and entered the
French side, where we were glad to use a free night to
relax and prepare for our next leg to Anguilla.
Our flotilla increased yet again at this point, with the
addition of Breath, captained by my good friend Peter
Muilenburg from St. John in the Virgin Islands. With
classic lines and rig, his home-built double-ender was
a good visual companion to Fiddler's Green. Peter has
been writing about the Caribbean for years and was
commissioned to write an article for Caribbean Travel
and Life on Gli Gli's voyage.
Anguilla
Our sail to the flat island of Anguilla was picture
perfect with smooth seas and an easy breeze. We invit
ed Zdenka to join us, and her sailing skills were a


Anguilla's international reggae star. We spent a great
evening out at his driftwood palace, "The Dune
Reserve", feasting and sharing musical inspiration.
Our official host .....".. ii..i arranged our stay
down to the last i I .i ii.. I- i vo days we under
took a tour of almost every school in Anguilla. At each
stop, under the now expert leadership of Paulinus, we
gave the children a brief talk about Carib history and
culture, followed by a musical performance. The
response was astounding; aside from intelligent ques
tions and genuine interest in the Carib legacy, the
children (sometimes to the dismay of their teachers)
went wild at the sound of the Carib music.
We managed to squeeze in a press session at the
National Trust office that soon turned into :- .1 i:
cussion about the pre-Columbian history ci 11'
Later we attended a workshop on Carib craft, tradition
al drumming and cassava bread at Ijahnya's cultural
centre. Ijahnya is a culture-woman in the Rasta tradi
tion, who has built a space for all people to come and
share and learn. Here the afternoon. ..t t 1.
groups of school children various i i, i i
al Carib culture, including basket-making, calabash
carving, drumming, and, working with a lively 85-year
old Anguillian lady called Ruby Read, baking cassava
bread. It was a wonderful afternoon that illustrated how
many aspects of what we call Caribbean Culture are
directly inherited from the pre-Columbian inhabitants.
The people's enthusiasm for the Gli Gli expedition
was one thing, but the real highlight of our visit to
Anguilla took place out of sight of the public, in a
sacred cave that has been closed to visitors since it
became recognized as a major archaeological site 20
years ago. The Fountain can be described as a pre
Columbian cathedral, a cave 60 feet underground that
houses i. 1 i 1.. ... 1 'arvings of the complete pan
then o: I. ... .... i.... gods as well as a spring of
crystal clear water. Archaeologists rank this site as
one of the most important cave sites in the Caribbean
and the evidence found inside it suggests that it was a
major ceremonial centre. Shards of pottery from as far
away as South and Central America have been found
inside, :.. i. .1,,. i, i. ,1 'as an important shrine for
traveler- i. ... 11.. ...i. .. the region. We were hon
ored to have been allowed into the cave by the Anguilla
National Trust and hope that our visit will help the
Anguillians' bid to get it recognized as a World
Heritage Site.
The Anguillian people's love of wooden boats made
us feel very much at home. Evenings like the one
spent at Laurie Gumbs' bar, The Pump House, made
leaving Anguilla hard.
We decided to change our sailing plan to the BVI.
Instead of crossing the Anegada passage in one long
run, we plotted a course for Sombrero, a tiny rock a
little north of the rhumb-line. Sir Emile knows more
about this desolate rock than anyone. Having been the
owner of the schooner Warspite that once supplied the
lighthouse keepers, he had many tales to tell of visit
ing in all conditions. His advice to us was "Go! The
seas are flat and the forecast says no wind; you don't
get many opportunities like that in a year to visit
Sombrero." So we slid out of Sandy Ground with a
light breeze coming from the southwest, Fiddler's
Green captained by Sir Emile for old times' sake. As we
reach i i. Land, the Gumbs family departed in
their -i I .1 The wind dropped to nothing and so
we unstepped Gli Gli's mast and Fiddler's Green towed
her the 20 miles to Sombrero through a flat glistening
sea and schools of dolphins.
Sombrero
Sombrero is a sheer, rocky outcrop not more than
400 metres long and 100 metres wide, alive with birds
and sea life. The whole flotilla managed to tie to the
rocks surrounding the tiny inlet by the island's land
ing ladder. Our team dispersed for a day to wander the
island, explore the abandoned lighthouse, fish, eat
and laze around. After the previous 20 days of high
profile presentations throughout the Leeward Islands,
being in an empty space, a total cultural void, where
we could immerse ourselves in pure nature, was a
needed psychological relief.
Two hours ahead of schedule nature told us clearly
when it was time to leave. A north swell came in with
little warning and our lines began to strain danger
ously. The conch shell was blown and within ten min-
utes Fiddler's Green and Gli Gli pulled out of the rocky
hole under power. There was still no wind, so after
much planning and anticipation fo. ... 1 ... -1 cross
ing under sail, it turned out that i, i, .- I ) make
the rest of the Anegada under tow. This was
something of a let-dowr. I 1' core sailors of the
Carib crew, but a chance for all to wind down and pre
pare for the end of our voyage.
Tortola
The welcome in the BVI was intentionally low key.
Family and friends gathered in Trellis Bay for a
relaxed dinner and an impromptu slide show of our
adventure. The Kalinago spirit was celebrated
amongst ourselves with drumming and singing
around the fire. Gli Gli was back on the beach in its
palm-shaded boat house and Fiddler's Green sat
lighter in the water, as all the equipment and i ;i
team were removed to our beach camp. The '
mission was accomplished for now.


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Tohatsu Outboards Choose Budget Marine
Japanese outboard engine manufacturers Tohatsu
have signed a formal agreement giving Budget
Marine the rights to be the distributor of the Tohatsu
brand in the Eastern Caribbean.
In July, Budget Marine Group Manager Robbie Ferron
visited Tohatsu's headquarters in Tokyo and new
state-of-the-art manufacturing plant in Komagane,
which has a production capacity of over 200,000 units
per year. He was guided by representatives of the
export agency handling the Budget Marine account
in the persons of Messrs Akita and Fujita of Santai
Trading. The agreement was signed on behalf of
Tohatsu by Mr. Sanada and on behalf of the Budget
Marine Group by Robbie Ferron.
Budget Marine, which has ten chandlery outlets within
the Caribbean, started retailing Tohatsu's two-stroke
engines in 2004. It quickly became apparent that
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provided an ideal solution for Caribbean boaters who


regularly have to lift and stow their motors on board.
As the demand for low emission, high fuel economy
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outboards throughout the island chain. We stock a
very broad range of Tohatsu parts and in June 2007,
as part of ongoing staff training, a Tohatsu delegation
made a presentation to our top technical sales and
purchasing personnel, reinforcing Budget Marine's
understanding of, and commitment to this brand and
its bright future in the Caribbean."
For more information on Budget Marine see ad
on page 2

Second Loft for Turbulence in Grenada
Turbulence Ltd, Grenada announces the opening this
month of a new Turbulence sail loft at Grenada
Marine, St. David's Harbour, in addition to their existing


loft at Spice Island Marine Services at Prickly Bay. The
new loft, equipped with three new sewing machines,
can accommodate even large catamaran mainsails.
Genoas and mainsails for boats up to 45 feet can be
fabricated on site. A full range of canvas work, from
winch covers to full awnings, is also available.
As the agent for Doyle's Sails in Grenada, Turbulence
can provide its customers with D4 racing sails (see
www.doylesails.com/sails-d4-home.htm). Also avail-
able is the latest in Hydra-net sails a non-laminate
woven material that will not separate or attract
mildew, and which offers a great weight saving for
large mainsails.
In addition, Turbulence's rigging department will set up
your catamaran or monohull with bowsprit and improve
your deck layout for the trouble-free use of gennakers.
Turbulence Ltd. also has a NAVTEC hydraulic repair
station at Spice Island Marine boatyard where their in-
house approved technician can perform repairs on
vangs, backstays and multi-function systems. All com-
mon seals are in stock.
For more information on Turbulence Ltd. see ad on
page 14.
For more information on Doyle Sails see ads on pages
I and 16.

MYBA Acquires St. Maarten Charter Show
The Mediterranean Yacht Brokers Association (MYBA)
has acquired the St. Maarten Charter Yacht
Exhibition. MYBA is a trade association founded in
1984 by a group of prominent yacht brokers with the
aim of promoting standards of professionalism and
ethics in the yachting industry.
The acquisition of the Sint Maarten exhibition will allow
MYBA to offer charter brokers a winter charter show
run specifically with their best interests in mind, as well
as those of their fleets' owners, captains and crews.
The show, which will continue to be managed on
behalf of MYBA by the St. Maarten Marine Trades
Association (SMMTA), will now be known as the MYBA
St. Maarten Charter Show. The first show under the
new arrangement will take place in Sint Maarten from
the 3rd through 7th of December, 2007. Registration
will be open for all qualified brokers, yachts, press,
and exhibitors at the new show website:
www.mybacaribbeanshow.com.
Both the MYBA and the SMMTA are committed to
bringing the same standards and quality which has
become synonymous with the MYBA sister show in
Genoa while at the same time preserving the
Caribbean flair of Sint Maarten.

New Luxury Marina Complex for Anguilla
Island Global Yachting (IGY) held a groundbreaking
ceremony on July 9th to announce their selection as
the master developer and operator of a new luxury
five-star marina and upland facility at Altamer Resort
on Anguilla.
The development, which will serve as the official port
of entry to Anguilla, will feature a 101-slip marina of
which 30 percent of the berths will accommodate
megayachts. Additionally, the complex will include
740,000 square feet of upland space which is currently
slated for a 164-unit resort plus a duty-free shopping
and restaurant promenade. Scheduled to open in
late 2009, the project is a partnership between IGY
and Altamer Resort owners Michael and Rebecca
Eggleton, and will be the first marina built on Anguilla.


For more information visit www.igymarinas com.

The Moorings Expands Tortola Base
The Moorings yacht charter company announced that
construction has commenced on a USS10-plus million
project which will enhance its flagship base in Road
Town, Tortola. The Moorings' new village will be locat-
ed on the southern end of the current property, which
is being extended. The complex is designed to take
advantage of the ocean views, with an open plaza
for retail shops and concierge-style customer service.
There will be a new customer reception area and
lounge with wi-fi service, multimedia-equipped briefing
area, club-style shower facility, over-the-water gazebo
bar and restaurant, a new conference area and new
oceanfront hotel suites. The new retail shops will open
onto an outdoor dining plaza overlooking the harbor.
As part of this expansion, a new breakwater will be
built to provide additional slip space and the new
waterfront area on the main harbor. The new docks
and jetty will allow for additional dockage of
approximately 120 yachts and provide easier access
for the beamier designs of the new monohulls and
continually expanding fleet of catamarans. The envi-
ronmentally responsible new breakwater is designed
with multiple channels to increase the natural sea-
water flow into the harbor. Natural circulation will fur-
ther be assisted through seawater pumps that move
existing water from the harbor entrance into the
innermost portion of the harbor, with filtration to
enhance its quality.
"The Moorings is proud to unveil this project which will
be the most environmentally friendly charter facility in
the Caribbean," commented The Moorings' presi-
dent, Lex Raas.
The construction is expected to be completed during
early 2008. The existing hotel, pool, restaurant and bar
along with the dockside amenities continue to remain
for the use of all guests of Wickhams Cay II marina.
For more information on The Moorings
visit www.moorings com.

Grenada's Port Louis Marina Helps Hildur
to New Home
A major part of the Port Louis Marina project in
Grenada has been the extensive clean-up of the
southwestern shores of St. George's Lagoon. Port Louis
Grenada has reportedly already spent more than ECS9
million dredging and removing garbage, scrap metal,
pylons and abandoned wrecks from the marina area.
The latest of the wrecks to be removed is the Hildur
Once a cargo boat sailing the Caribbean Sea, Hildur
became a casualty of both time and Hurricane Ivan.
Port Louis work crews spent 12 weeks patching and
welding the vessel, which was recently towed out to
sea and sunk in open waters outside of the village of
Moliniere. The Hildur will add to the many dive sites off
Grenada's coast.
Port Louis marina manager Danny Donelan explained
the significance of the careful removal of the Hildur to
their overall vision of the marina project: "We are
spending millions to clean up the marina," he said.
"We are doing this not only because we want the
best and most beautiful marina in the world, but
because we want this marina to enhance the envi-
ronment and not degrade it."
For more information on Port St Louis Grenada visit
www.portiouisgrenada. com.


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CARIBBEAN ECO-NEWS

Young St. Lucians

Learn 'Ridge to Reef'
By far the greatest sources of marine pollution are those that are land-based.
These include agricultural run-off (sometimes containing pesticides), sewage, waste
water and sediment. In the Caribbean, all too often rivers and drains are used as
dumps for both solid and liquid waste.
In July, 30 students in St. Lucia learned about watershed issues and their impact
on coral reefs at a Ridge to Reef Watershed Training Camp, hosted by the Forestry
Department at their rainforest camp near Micoud. The students braved intense rain
storms to learn the connections between the rainforest and the coral reefs, and how
land-based activities can affect the sea.
Students explored their home watersheds, went on a photo safari, learned how to test
water for contaminants, hiked in the rainforest, and viev I 11. I- .... .1. .ass
bottomed boats at the marine park. Many also learned to -.. i i I I 1 I- up.
Kiawa from Marigot couldn't believe all the fish she saw. As the group members
viewed each others' photo safaris, she asked, "So what can we do about the sediment
going onto our reefs?" The students' creativity was evident as they suggested ways to


reduce erosion and also catch the sediment before it reaches the sea. At the end-of
camp talent show, the students dramatized different ways to protect the water.
The students and teachers who participated are now designing watershed moni
touring and improvement programs in their home watersheds, using the training in
environmental education and watershed improvement techniques they received
from Al Stenstrup, Curriculum Director at Project Learning Tree, a Washington DC
based environmental training organization and Dr. Padgett Kelly, professor of envi
ronmental education at Middle Tennessee State University and board member of
National Marine Educators Association, as well as Caribbean SEA (Caribbean
Student Environmental Alliance) Executive Director, Mary Beth Sutton.
The innovative programme was led by Caribbean SEA and the Sustainable
Development and Environment Unit of the Ministry of Economic Affairs, and fund
ed by NOAA's Coral Reef Conservation Program. Communities and schools repre
sented included Vieux Fort Comprehensive School Campus B, George Charles
Secondary School, Dennery Primary, La Caye Primary, Soufriere, Choiseul,
Canaries, Dennery, Marigot and the Mabouya Valley.
The students also developed creative action plans for improving the water in their
local rivers. They will now set up water monitoring in their home watersheds, imple
Si the water and continue to monitor to see if they are suc
.. i I Ii i, e present their findings to local officials and make recom
mendations based on their results.


I


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Phone: (58-281) 267-7412 Fax: (58-281) 2677-810 VHF Channel 71 Web page:
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REGATTA


NEWS

Guadeloupe Goes Radio Racing
St6phane Legendre reports: A new sailing activity has
been born in Guadeloupe, to occupy racing enthusi-
asts during the summer when major regattas are over.
Fourteen owners of remote-controlled model Lasers

r_
LIM,


and the restaurant Le Plaisancier have initiated the
July Radio Controlled Lasers regatta series at Bas du
Fort marina at Pointe-a-Pitre.
For the inaugural race series, held July 4 to 25, a
space was cleared close to the restaurant area of the
marina for spectators to attend. Four very official
races included judges and security on the water.
Races started at 7:00PM and ended around 9:00 or
10:00PM. The evenings did not end there, though -
sometimes race-goers were at Le Plaisancier until 4
o'clock the next morning!
This year's series winner is St6phane Squarcioni from
WayPoint Electronics. When do we organize trans-
Caribbean regattas?
For more information visit: www.sailrcloser com or
hftp://rclaser fr
St. Lucia Juniors' Season Wrap-Up
Ted Bull reports:
July 6th saw the St. Lucia Yacht Club junior sailing pro-
gramme's 2007 end-of-season fun day, with sailing,
swimming and shoreside team events.
During the season these youngsters attended regular
sail-training sessions, starting with the very basics, pro-
gressing through various stages of instruction, and final-
ly sailing solo in Optimist dinghies. From there they took
advanced instruction in safety, boat maintenance, first
aid and finally the art of racing. At age 15, the young
sailors progress to the Olympic class Laser dinghy.
The all-day, season's-end celebration was organized


by coach Benjamin Todd, junior sailing events admin-
istrator Lily Bergasse, and assistants Jennifer
Spiegelberg, Sue Milner and Ulrich Meixner.
Twenty-five young sailors were on the water and later


received recognition for their achievements over the
period. The Chris Renwick Laser Championship Trophy
went to Dominic Lovell, with Luis Meixner in second
place and Fredrick Sweeney third. The Home Services
Optimist Championship Trophy was won by Raina
Bergasse, followed by Stephanie Lovell and Marcus
Sweeney. The Red Team, captain Luis Meixner, won
the team event. Special Achievement Awards went
to Sophia Spiegelberg, Most Determined; Mateo
Heinemann, Most Enthusiastic; and Dario Daniel, Most
Improved. Merit Certificates were received by Dylan
Charles, Andre Felix, Marion Bardies, Luc Chevrier and
Mark Spurway.
Caribbean Kids Sail Internationally
Some of the Eastern Caribbean's talented and hard-
working junior sailors are gaining world-class racing
experience at major international youth regattas.
Trinidad & Tobago sent five young sailors to the Laser
Radial Youth Worlds, held in the Netherlands. As this
issue of Compass goes to press, after five races with
one discard, Andrew Lewis is in 34th place out of 205
sailors; Stuart Leighton is 98th, Alistair Affoo 175th,
James Leighton 181st and Matthew Scott 198th.
Reports say that the North Sea's big waves and strong
currents are providing a real challenge to those
accustomed to Caribbean conditions.
Meanwhile, St. Lucian youth sailors Fredrick Sweeney
and Luis Meixner have set their sights on the 2012
Olympics. In preparation, Fredrick competed in the
2007 North American Laser Championships, where he
sailed a Laser Radial among the 58 competitors form-
ing the Silver Fleet, earning a very creditable 14th
place. As this issue of Compass goes to press, Luis is in
Canada, racing a Laser Standard at the 2007 Volvo
World Youth Championships.
Trinidad's Southern Caribbean Regatta
The Guardian Holdings Group will again sponsor the
Southern Caribbean Invitational Regatta, held in the
waters of Chaguaramas, Trinidad. This year's dates


are December 27th through 30th.
The organizing authority is the Trinidad & Tobago
Sailing Association. Classes include Optimist (two age
groups), Laser Standard, Laser Radial, MR 15 (a two-


-*-.


man dinghy with asymmetrical spinnaker) and SR Max
(a three-man keelboat with spinnaker). Boats will be
available for charter.
Pre-registration begins this month, and is on a "first
come, first served" basis. Complete registration takes
place on Thursday 27th December from 9:00AM. Off-
island participants ask about the interesting option
of staying with a local sailing family!
For more information visit www. ttsailing. org.
Register Online for St. Maarten Classic
Online registration for the St.Maarten-St.Martin Classic
Yacht Regatta, to be held the third week of January
2008, is now open at www.ClassicRegatta.com.
Regatta entry fees have been set at US$4 per foot if the
registration is received on line. Registration in St.Maarten
on the day before the start will cost US $6 per foot.
Organizers hope to attract over 30 classic yachts to the
event. The St.Barth's-based Lone Fox, captained by Ira
Epstein, has already been registered on line for the
2008 event. Lone Fox, a 65-foot ketch, was built in 1957
for Colonel Whitbread of Whitbread Breweries, the orig-
inal sponsor of the Whitbread Round The World Race.
2008 Yacht Rallies Announced
Want to sail in company with like-minded boaters to
Trinidad for carnival next year? The third annual Route
du Carnival rally will gather at Port du Marin,
Martinique, on January 26th, 2008, enjoying two free
nights at the marina. Rally participants will then sail to
the Grenadines for an overnight stop in Bequia and
two nights in the Tobago Cays, before sailing on to
Trinidad where special arrangements are made to
see "the greatest show on earth".
Or, if you'd like to join a rally heading to Cuba, the
9th edition of the popular Transcaraibes will depart in
late March 2008, from Marina Bas du Fort,
Guadeloupe, bound for Santiago de Cuba with fun-
filled stops in St. Martin, the BVI, and the
Dominican Republic.
Continued on next page







i i . . page
: : i, i :., :., :,,,, 3l and the Transcaraibes are
organized by Club Transcaraibes. The organizer
speaks French and English.
For more information visit www.transcaraibes com.

Rolex 2008 to Offer IRC Division
For the 35th annual running of the International Rolex
Regatta in March 2008, St. Thomas Yacht Club, USVI,
will welcome yachts sailing under the IRC rating rule
as well as those sailing under the CSA rating rule. The
move a first for the Rolex and possibly setting a
trend for other Caribbean regattas is intended to
make it hassle-free for racing sailboats from the United
States and Europe to compete. IRC is the only rule
endorsed by ISAF (the International Sailing Federation)
as an international rating rule and accepted through-
out the world.
"With the majority of new racing sailboats being
designed to IRC, it makes sense to allow them the
chance to race under the IRC rule in one of the
world's best venues," said Regatta Co-Director John
Sweeney. "We aren't abandoning CSA; we are simply
offering options to the sailors, and with that, encour-
aging a larger international fleet." Sweeney further
explained that CSA certificate holders are eligible to
obtain an IRC rating as well. "We encourage owners
to investigate the requirements, and local measurers
can assist in the process," he said.
"With this development, we expect to see competi-
tive racing under both rules and a growing potential
for IRC throughout the Caribbean," said US-IRC
Executive Director John Mendez, adding that the
event will again be part of the US-IRC Gulf Stream
Series. "Yachts that are from the US and already have
their certificates can easily join the regatta; I view it
like a passport that travels with you wherever you wish
to sail."
The three-day International Rolex Regatta, scheduled
for March 28th through 30th, 2008, is an annual
favorite on the Caribbean racing calendar, catering
not only to handicap yachts but also to one-design
sailboats of at least 24 feet and beach cats.
For more information on the US-IRC and CSA, visit
www us-irc.org and www.caribbean-sailing.com. For
information on the International Rolex Regatta visit
www.rolexcupregatta.com.

Fishing Lines
32.54LB KINGFISH TOPS ST. THOMAS TOURNAMENT
Nikolas Murdjeff of Florida fished last year's Annual


Bastille Day Kingfish Tournament in St. Thomas, USVI,
and caught nothing. Not so this year. The 14-year-old,
who has spent summers with his father in the Virgin
Islands for the past seven years, reeled in a 32.54-





^^^^kjl^^^L l~jJ^ .- -


pound kingfish from aboard a 30-foot Water's Edge
Sports rental boat to win the Largest Kingfish and Best
Junior Male Angler prizes.
Murdjeff pocketed US$2,000 in cash for his Largest
Kingfish, sponsored by N.E.M. (West Indies) Insurance
Limited, managed in the USVI by Red Hook Agencies,
Inc, and also a weekend for two at Divi Carina Bay
Beach Resort & Casino, with airline tickets compli-
ments of Seaborne Airlines, that his father is sure to
enjoy. Murdjeff also won US$250 in cash from Offshore
Marine and Yanmar for his Best Junior Male win.
The Second Largest Kingfish prize went to Ernest
Quetel, Jr., who caught a 29.40-pounder aboard 4Q2.
Quetel won US$750 in cash sponsored by FedEx
Express. Junior angler Peter Turbe, fishing aboard
WETKYAT, reeled in a 29.17-pounder to win the Third
Largest Kingfish cash prize of US$500, sponsored by
Offshore Marine and Yanmar.
With 16 fish caught total, Capt. Howard Griswold
aboard Gone Ketchin, won Best Boat and Best
Captain, and was awarded US$1,000 cash for each
title, from Offshore Marine and Yanmar. Ernest Quetel,
Jr.'s, catch of a total of 76.29 pounds of fish also
earned him Best Male Angler, and a US$500 cash
prize from Offshore Marine and Yanmar.


Marcia Griswold, aboard Gone Ketchin, reeled in a
total of 62.39-pounds to pick up the Best Female
Angler award and a US$500 prize from Red Hook
Agencies. Joanica Aubain caught 18.83 pounds from
aboard Rosaly to win Best Junior Female Angler and
US$250 cash from Offshore Marine and Yanmar.
All 34 registered junior anglers were eligible for a
"Catch In The Hat" award, sponsored by Hull Bay
Hideaway and Dan Perry. The first 16 names drawn
from a hat received US$50 cash and the last two won
US$100 dollars each. All registered junior anglers were
treated to complimentary Island Oasis fruit smoothies.
Each year, the Northside Sportfishing Club makes
donations to community organizations and individu-
als. This year's beneficiaries were The Joseph Sibilly
School, St. Thomas Rescue, the American Red Cross,
Kidscope and the Family Resource Center. The Club
also awarded college scholarships to Shanelle Brin
and Jason A. Brin.

NEW VENUE FOR ST. LUCIA BILLFISH EVENT
The Marina at Marigot Bay, St. Lucia, will be the new
venue for the St. Lucia Game Fishing Association's
annual billfish tournament. The 17th International Bill
Fishing Tournament, to be held September 25 to 29, is
being hosted by the SLGFA in conjunction with the
Marina and Discovery at Marigot Bay, the island's
newest five-star resort and marina village. Traditionally
the tournament has been held at the Rodney Bay
Marina in the north of the island, however organizers
decided to move the event to take advantage of
Marigot Bay's central location and new facilities. Over
100 anglers from throughout the Caribbean and from
the US are expected to take part in the event which
will feature activities on and off the water at
Discovery and neighboring JJ's Paradise, Chateau
Mygo and Doolittles.
The overall winner of the event wins entry into the 2008
Rolex/IGFA Offshore Championship and prizes includ-
ing fishing tackle, a 225-horsepower outboard engine
and a tournament trophy. In addition, there is a prize of
a Sports Utility Vehicle for breaking the tournament
record for blue marlin, currently held by Jean-Francois
Fredonic of Martinique who caught a 707-pound fish in
1996. Last year's winner was Hard Play from Trinidad &
Tobago who reeled in a 407-pound blue marlin.
There will be cash prizes for tag-and-release catches
of white marlin, sailfish, long-bill spearfish, swordfish,
mahi-mahi, tuna and wahoo, and prizes for the best
female and junior anglers.
For more information phone Annie Hamu (758) 716-8124.


















by Stephane Legendre


more professionally, like the famous Martinique yole
races. The skills of the participants have reached a
very high standard, and the championship is disputed
all year long. New boats are built to improve perform
ances within the rating.
Public attendance is greater every year. The beaches
at starts and finishes are packed with people, which
creates a friendly atmosphere during the summer hol
iday for kids and parents. Tents are installed to serve
food and host sponsors' products.
This year numerous media representatives were
there for the first time, and they followed every race
from beginning to end fitting for a major popular
event, which this race has become.


The Round the Island Race for i .... .i
craft of the French West Indian : -I ., i i i
was held this year from July 13th to 21st.
For the sixth running of this hotly contested event,
the course was different and interesting. A fleet of 35
open boats gathered in Les Saintes archipelago, south
of the butterfly-shaped Guadeloupe, then moved up
the leeward coast of Basse Terre, the butterfly's west
ern wing, for three races before heading to the wind
ward coast of Grande Terre. Eight legs in total were
sailed between Les Saintes and the village of Saint
Francois on Grande Terre's southeast coast. A weath
er forecast predicted a tropical wave to strike right in
the middle of the event, just to make things a bit more
difficult and selective than usual. But an even bigger
selection process t-- :-in:. t- take place along the
windless leeward . .- Terre, where local
knowledge is essential to succeed.
The jury came all the way from Martinique, neutral
because from a different island. Do not --t th .t
Guadeloupe is also nicknamed the "land ol I - "
and there is a lot of passion during this event!
All the leaders on the traditional boat scene were
present, many with new boats. Skippers came from
Les Saintes, la Desirada, Vieux Fort, Carenage (Pointe
a-Pitre), Sainte Anne, Deshaies, Saint Francois and
Marie Galante. Claude Thelier, the four-time winner of
the event, and the well-known Forbin boatbuilding
family also took part.
Although the first day's starting signal was i-An
with little wind, the breeze picked up as the 11
reached the Saintes Channel ... 1 -1 "n 1-,-t
from the northeast pushed the : I . .
to Vieux Fort at the southwestern tip of Basse Terre.
Things became difficult as the wind died in front of
Basse Terre city and the finish line. Claude Thelier, on
Foutefe, won that leg with a comfortable lead over the
others and took the lead in the regatta.
Legs Two and Three, to Vieux Habitants and Pointe
Noire respectively, were two days of nerve-racking
competition. Thelier's leadership was challenged and,
choosing a disastrous option in Leg Two, he lost his
chances of winning overall.
Then appeared the Forbin's family strategy: always
be close to the leader and above all never take a risky
option which you would have to "pay for in cash". That
strategy worked well for Patrick Forbin, on Ijala, who
was always close to the winner of the day.
Thelier trie-1 -lr...in:. t remainedof the, .. I
catch up by ......... i f the eight races, ,, I
..... i 1 I .... 1. to keep Patrick Forbin from
ii..... .1 i .. point. Thelier came second


overall with 36 points, and last year's second place
winner Alain Dabriou came third, with 52 points, on
Calin du Matin
The Forbin's family success story was confirmed
during this event: on Patrick Forbin's winning crew
was one of his sons; his brother Jean Forbin came
fifth, with 59 points, on Ti Bred'la; and another broth
er, Mathieu Forbin, was 12th only because he had to
abandon one race due to boat damage. Three of the
four Forbin brothers run boatyards, and one son is
working with his father, a family tradition which was
transmitted by the deceased father to all his sons. On
average, Jean and Patrick build five to six traditional
boats per year. This incomparable experience of both
-;nil-li;n -1 r .-.;; them explains the success of this
i ..... i ... ... .. . these difficult boats.
The Round Guadeloupe Race for traditional boats
has reached a new level and needs to be managed


Boatbuilder Patrick Forbin (inset) used a low-risk
strategy to sail Ijala to overall victory in
the eight day regatta



The conclusion to all this positive development is
that more professionalism in .... ...... i I
must be put in place to avoicl ..- -...
at protests.
Guadeloupe locals do not naturally turn towards the
sea and its activities, and this event is a real opportu
nity to foster appreciation of this new field of marine
recreation for many. Children are keen to learn and a
few schools are now teaching traditional sailing a
very good sign for future generations.
See you all next year!
For more information visit www.cgvt2000.com.


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,., 0 EGA TA FESIVAL 2007


Is August de 4th an' ah standing' on de beach at
Lesterre, Carriacou. Yo' want to know what's up?
Is de start ah de first boat race in de 42nd
anniversary regatta. An' ah tell yo', is ah replica ah
last time ah been here, two years ago. It hardly got ah
cloud in de sky, ah ain't seeing' no wind on de water, de
sun shinin' hot like fire. Ah sorry fo' dem poor sailors
out dey today.
Well, is ah open race, dat mean no matter what size
yo' be, all sailin' together, call it ah party race! Eight
boats altogether: Bluff, Cloudy Bay an' Limbo from
Bequia, an' Passion, Ace, Out Rage, East Wind an'
Ghost from Carriacou an' Petite Martinique. As ah say,
12 o'clock dey start after ah long wait. On de course
map, dem put down 11 o'clock start but, fo' tell yo' de
truth, when in Carriacou, stop worryin' 'bout time;
after all, 11 ain't far from 12. Anyway, dem start. De
wind dead light an' dem snailin' dem way up to de
mark in Hillsborough. As dem reach dat mark, it look
like dem not goin' any further. De little air say, "Ah


done wid dat": ah say dem go' call it off. Not to be, yo'
see, in Carriacou, dem accustom to dem conditions,
dat is why ah 20-foot boat got sails bigger dan any in
de other islands. Dem sailmakers does smile when
dem walk in! Dey slammin' to de outer mark den
downwind an' back up. Ah can't watch dem fo' long,
de sun glare on de water hurtin' me eye. An' I on de
land -sorry fo' dem in de boats all white sails out
dey. Ah hope dey got Raybans, ha ha! About 3 o'clock,
de first one finish: Passion, she slip past Out Rage
right at de finish, den Ghost, de others slammin' dey
way up. Ah hope we got better luck next day.
Ah decide fo' tek ah tour out to Windward, see how
de party going Yo' see, dem sloops does race around de
- island on de Saturday an' do dem party fo' demself up
dey. Well, ah was ah bit shocked when ah see de ero-
sion dat tek place during' Ivan an' Emily. Most ah de
mangrove an' de manchineel trees gone, de water
almost up in de road, an' de shore line up wid small
steel boats rustin' away. Yo' notice ah say shocked,
S well, Windward famous fo' its wooden boat-buildin' so
S ah surprise fo' see so much iron on de beach. Good
S news, though. Ah see two new sloops building dey;
might be ready fo' next year Regatta.
-Continued on next page


The Grenadines' open boats were originally designed
for fishing. Built for handiness and speed, they are
well suited to racing


Gear & Furlerswag up Io mm

Geor & Furlers in Stock An fittings in slack

*min


rer


ji., - 1-,- .I1 '1,. 11.







Continued from previous page
Well, all dem sailors partyin' an' arguin' who mek bad
tack an' who go' get dem ass cut tomorrow, very good,
back to town.
Well, is Sunday morning' an' ah look down on de har
bour an' fo' tell de truth, it pretty fo' so but fo' swim-
min' an' snorkellin' not fo' sailin'. Is like glass on de


a
Ai


Some 40 indigenous boats coming from seven islands
raced in ten classes at this year's
Carriacou Regatta Festival
water. : I .1. small tanker in de harbour -ah was
wonder... -1. pump out she oil in de bay, it so calm.
Eleven o'clock now an' ah feeling' ah little air on me skin
an' ah shadow on de water, good sign. De little air
coming' from de south so de land tekin' half. Dem got
two races today, about 40 boats sailin' including eight
deck sloops, nice fo' see dem increasing Last time ah
was here, dem had free left after de hurricane but now
dem building' back. Dey does look so nice downwind wid
all de pretty spinnakers. Well, as ah say, 40 boats out
in de harbour, looking' good, but my eyes on de long
open boats as dey call dem down dey. We also got
Tornado, Divine, Worries, Sweet Image an' My Love from
Bequia. Ah don't know all de names so, as de old peo
ple say, ah go' tell yo' what ah know. Dem do dey laps


an' coming' to de finish, Passion in de lead, Bluffin sec
ond place -but not fo' long. De wind cut about 100
feet from de finish. Ah stand up 'pon de end ah de
wharf, me heart in me mouth. Cloudy Bay 100 yards
behind an' got ah puff coming' wid ah bone in she troat.
Bam! She pass Bluff20 feet to de mark an' tek second
place. Ah couldn't believe it although ah see it happen
already right here in Carriacou. Limbo
beating' Ace by a long way, Sweet Image
just' beating' out Worries, an' Tornado
behind by ah long shot.
De second race start about half past two,
S still de same conditions, same course, not
much change only dis time, Bluffin second
place. So yo' know who behind. Ah hope it
S blow ah little wind tomorrow but de weath
erman say stable conditions affection' de
islands we go' see.
Well, Monday is here. Last race today an'
no change in de harbour, calm like a pond
as dey say. Eleven o'clock reach an' not
much difference, only some clouds hangin'
about, putting' doubt in dem skipper mind
it go blow or not: yo' t'ink we should
change de sail? Yo' t'ink we should carry
mo' ballast? Well, ah tell Bluffgo wid what
she carry yesterday, blow or not -she
stiff, she go' stand up. Dem start; down
wind dem go, Passion in de lead, Bluff,
Cloudy Bay. Dem in de second lap now an'
Same position but de wind doin' ah shift
around' every now an' den. As ah say,
Passion in de lead, Bluff right behind. Is de first time in
de four races dey ha' fo' tack, Passion on starboard,
Bluff on port -watch it! Bluff tack fo' get out she way
an' mo' tack to de finish, Passion still in front. About
100 feet to de finish, de wind drop. Passion stop in she
tracks, Bluffjump she sheets, tek de little air an' slide
right past Passion fo' tek de first! Ah know me friend
Leo nah like dat. But, after all, he know anyt'in' over 12
knot, Bluf is better dan Passion. Cloudy Bay trudgin'
behind, Limbo way ahead ah Ace, Sweet Image way
ahead ah Worries. Imagine, wind at five knots an'
Worries capsizing. Fo' all de year ah know Andy sailin',
he can't complete ah regatta without swimming !
All in all, ah enjoyed meself. It was ah very good
regatta, ah bit low-keyed, but so ah like it. I must
thank Leo an' Bernard an' de rest ah de regatta com-
mittee for mekin' my stay an enjoyable one an' putting'
on ah good show. Hats off -see yo' next year.


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Small Open Boat A
1) Ark Royal Roy Delisle, Petite Martinique
2) . .. .. 1 )mpton, Carriacou
3) .1 . I I Carriacou
Small Open Boat Al
1) Sweet Image, Robert Hazell, Bequia
2) Worries, Andrew Mitchell, Bequia
3) Tornado, Kingsley Stowe, Bequia
Small Open Boat B
1) Now For Now, Clayton DeRoche, Petite Martinique
2) Parasite, Clint Bethel, Petite Martinique
3) Perceive, Adlion Bethel, Petite Martinique
Small Open Boat C
1) My Love, Stanley Harry, Bequia
2) Bad Feelings, Samuel Forde, Mayreau
3) Hard Target, Victor Hazell, Mayreau
Small Open Boat D
1) Swift, Sean Martin, Sauteurs
2) Classic, Ted Richards, Gouyave
3) Passage, Nicholas Bethel, Sauteurs
Long Open Boat A (Budget Marine)
1) Passion, Matthew Joseph, Carriacou
2) asIl i Felli ....l F I ....
3), i-j B I I II II ii 4a
Long Open Ba B I i. I I ....
1) Limbo, Al I .... i
2) Ace, Devas Joseph, Carriacou
Stern Boat
1) i i, ...... .. uel Bethel, Petite Martinique
2) ...... ..... I Clement, Petite Martinique
3) East Wind, Gerald Bethel, Petite Martinique
Large Decked Sloop (Republic Bank)
1) ,.r 0 II, Bernard Compton, Carriacou
2) i ... heesman Patrice, Carriacou
3) Marie Stella Michael Bethel, Carriacou
Small Decked Sloop (Republic Bank)
1) Rosalina, Petroc Patrice, Carriacou
2) Run Away, Javid McLawrence, Carriacou
3) Small Pin, Hope McLawrence, Carriacou
Round-D-Island Race (PSV Resort)
1) Glacier, Cheesman Patrice, Carriacou
2) Marie Stella Michael Bethel, Carriacou
3) Margeta 0 II, Cyril Compton, Carriacou
Long Open Boat Saturday
1) Passion, Leo Joseph, Carriacou
2) '... .. uel Bethel, Petite Martinique
3) I ...... ..... I Clement, Petite Martinique







,.., O 0 A *ESIV-eII 0V07ml


'Benign' Race


Weekend for


Yachts

by Jerry Stewart
One thing you can count on 1. .. 1. 11i.. a
Caribbean regatta in August is the ... i .... i the
weather. That, coupled with the ability to track tropical
waves while still over the African continent, caused a
mas- ..- I ,-.I,,,. 1.1- from Carriacou when a
low - -. -I ', I ''.. I ... wave several thousand
miles to the east of the island. The low filled in, but at
this years annual Carriacou Regatta yacht races, held
August 3rd through 6th, Tyrrel Bay didn't quite see the
numbers of competitors as previous years.
Nonetheless, 20 yachts were on the start line for
Friday's Doyle Offshore Sails-sponsored two-handed
Round Carriacou Race, -5nin: from Phil and Fay
Atkinson's Tramontana at I I to the Laser sailed
by Michael Weber and crew Ryan.
With conditions of 12 to 16 knots of wind and a flat
sea, once again the day's "cruise" went very well, with
almost everyone finishing in time for the afternoon's
fundraising auction. (See story on page 17.)
Taking just over three hours, the Australian
Tramontana was fastest 'round the island, dropping
to third place on corrected time, with Phil Renfro's
Hughes 38 Otra Mundo showing us how they win
races in Texas. Carriacou-based regatta regular Andy
Smelt aboard his Spencer 44, Yellowbird, corrected
to second.
The CSA Fun Rule worked very well in this 11
with such disparate yachts as Dominique .
Sanctus, a Jeanneau Sun Kiss 47, correcting just 18
seconds in front of Uwe Gerstmann's Joshua Salai for
fourth and fifth places.
This .-1 has always attracted unusual yachts.
This .. -peedy" John Everton's 50-foot, Manuel
Campos-designed ketch Gaucho, at 60 years old,
added a classic touch to the fleet.


In CSA Class, Tim Sudell's Grenada-based S&S 44
Saga won line honours but on corrected time
Carriacou-based yachts dominated: Roy Hopper's
Beneteau First 38 Windborne recorded a convincing vic
tory, with my Hughes 38 Bloody Mary placing second.
Three multihulls joined us this year. Featured as
"the battle of the cruising multis", all at about 12
meters long, they sailed boat for boat. Surprising

















Looks like fim! Yellowbird placed second overall
in the Fun Class

some, but not Irish owner Paul O'Regan, the Wharram
cat Stillus finished over 30 minutes in front of
Dutchman Bram Van Dijk's trimaran Bad Dog, with
British Petra Kopp's Joubert Nivelt cat Kayen two
minutes behind in third place.
Th -- nine' celebration at the Lazy Turtle pizzeria
: .... i Mount Gay rum punch, courtesy of
I 1 I unt Gay who also provided a bottle
S i i ..... I .- all com petitors.
Saturday's Island Water World sponsored race start
ed punctually, as do all races controlled by race officer
James Benoit, who kindly came up from the Grenada
Yacht Club once again to run the yacli .11 i..-
year, the strong south coast currents i. I .. I ....,
and the lighter winds gave crews the opportunity to
appreciate the colours and surroundings offered by


the south coast of Carriacou as nine boats raced
between the scattered offshore islets.
In CSA Class, once again Windborne sailed to a com-
fortable win over Bloody Mary and Saga, whose long
lead gained by the enthusiastic young crew was
destroyed by the handicap system.
Tramontana beat Yellowbird into second and
Sanctus into third.
This evening's party was
held between Twilight restau
rant and the newly recon
structed Old Rum Shop, with
entertainment from the
Harvey Vale Drummers.
As in previous years,
Sunday was for watching the
decked sloops race in the
local boat regatta that the
also run over this weekend.
The light winds which were a
feature of this day, were to
continue through Monday.
In Monday's race, spon
scored by Budget Marine,
again starting in
Hillsborough, ten boats com
menced in less than ten knots
of wind. The occasional five
minute hole to contend with made the day a little frus
treating. Nonetheless, the pattern of results established
over the previous two races remained CSA Class:
Windborne, Bloody Mary and Saga and Fun Class:
Tamontana, Yellowbird and Sanctus
The Carriacou Yacht Club provided the venue for
prizegiving on Monday evening. Overall, it was no sur
prise that Windborne won CSA Class and Tramontana
Fun Class in what proved to be a typically benign
August weekend.
This I i .11 . prizes from Mount Gay
Rum, I I -I. -..1- Budget Marine, Island
Water World, The Round House Restaurant, Lumba
Dive, Lazy Turtle Restaurant, Fidel Productions (T
shirts) and After Hours Supermarket. Logistical sup
port was provided by Tyrrel Bay Yacht Haulout. Race
officer James Benoit was assisted by Barbara
Greenwood and Gus Pierre on the committee boat. The
organizers give thanks to all.


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Regatta-Time Benefit Breaks

Record for Carriacou Kids

by Majorie Mowry


The "Lucky" 7th Annual Carriacou Children's Education Fund (CCEF) benefit,
staged in Tyrrel Bay -lini;n Augusts Carriacou : . I -lival 2007, was a run
away success. The .. i -. various fun -and I,, I........ activities raised a
record-breaking EC$16,152 (almost 30 percent over last years tally) to provide edu
national assistance to local school children. At this waypoint, over EC$60,000 has
been contributed by yachtspeople and locals to the CCEF benefit, which was initiat
ed during the 2000 Regatta by cruisers wishing to express their appreciation for
Carriacou's warm-hearted hospitality.
Again, the lively CCEF Auction, held on August 3rd, proved to be the fundraiser's
highlight. A bumper-crop of auction inventory had already been stockpiled at the
Carriacou Yacht Club during the year, thanks to the combined generosity of CYC
management an I .-.i.... .... Eclectic additions included original watercolor
paintings, rare ... ... .I a boatload of bakery treats... even a seltzer
shooter! Magnanimous contributions from local businesses included a Tyrrel Bay
Yacht Haulout package; scuba sessions from Arawak Divers; and gift certificates
from Genevy's Massage, Lambi Queen Restaurant, Patty's Deli, Lazy Turtle Pizzeria
and Twilight Restaurant. An extraordinary and lucrative auction prize was volun
teered by the -, .1 i1 ... -.i.... xas mega-yacht Champagne Cher Their
five-star "part, I i I I .. I ..... I I bubbly and branded boatwear sparked
a fierce bidding battle amongst a posse of fellow Lone Star cruisers.
When the dust finally settled, a record high of over EC$11,000 had 1 .1 .. 1
by veteran CCEF auctioneer Mike Jordan of yacht Rhumb Runner. A "B .- . i .I
sale, craft table, shoreside diversions and cash donations helped top up the kitty.
This year, an expanded menu of Tyrrel Bay shoreside events was well-attended by
islanders and an impressive diversity of international cruisers. At least 20 nations
-including Iceland, New Zealand, Ecuador, Thailand and the Philippines -were
represented by over 60 visiting vessels, which ranged from the humble home-brew
tc '1 '- -.t class.
Si1 ....... I fundraising got off to a good start on August 1st at the 10th Annual
Welcome Potluck hosted at the Carriacou Yacht Club. Organizer John Pompa hon
ored the anniversary with a recap of the decade's achievements and a presentation
of commemorative plaques to longtime CCEF supporters. The evening's entertain
ment included a raucous :F.it.r ., 1 1- .- ing-along (thanks to pickers Steve
Wolfson, Richard Haner ... i I ... ... i i plus a "Dry T-Shirt Contest" (as
opposed to the infamous "wet" variety), in which sartorial sailors competed in "Best
Pirate-Wear," "Most Likely To Get You Arrested," and "Best Tall T-Shirt Tale" fash
ion categories. "Happy Hour" met the midnight hour as the camaraderie continued.
Another crowd-pleaser, the Beach Fun Day, featured Arawak Divers' Kayak


Klassic, Dirty Potato-Sack Derby, Tipsy Tug-of-War, the hotly-contested Beer
Chuggin' Challenge, and an Underwater Treasure/Trash Hunt. Event entry fees, a
dominoes tournament and book sales all contributed to the collection plate.
Finally, Carriacou Yacht Club's grand finale barbecue marked the end of a week's
worth of work and play. Hats off to hard-working volunteers from Arawak Divers,
Cayuga, Dreamcatcher, Drisana, Horta, Liward, M'Lady Kathleen, Nomad, North
Stand, Peregrine, Possible Dream and Second Millennium.
Cruisers and local supporters presented the 2007 CCEF tally to Susan Peters, the
Social Worker attached to the Ministry of Carriacou and Petite Martinique Affairs.
Guided by Ms. Peters' conscientious management, the Fund provides needy local
children with school uniforms, textbooks, supplies and other educational assis


Visiting cruisers and local supporters present a record setting tally to Social Worker
Susan Peters for the benefit of local schoolchildren

tance. CCEFs steady growth has also enabled the creation of two new initiatives:
"Meals from Keels," a school lunch program; and a set of full scholarships to
Carriacou's T.A. Marryshow Communit 11 ..ce its inception, CCEF has pro
vided educational assistance in over I I.... .1." I cases; its estimated that this
year's Fund can support another hundred or more.
Although its our "Lucky 7th" anniversary, good fortune has less to do with CCEF's
ongoing success than the hard work, dedication, vision anc ..- -1 I i .-..
porters. Congratulations go to organizers Melodye and John : "I i
Millennium Carriacou Yacht Club's owners and staff for their gracious hospitality;
and managers of Tyrrel Bay Haul Out for their loyal support. Special thanks go to
all sponsors, volunteers and participants, as well as cruisers who could only be pres
ent "in spirit" through donations a. -1 -. -1l 1 -
CCEF volunteer Marjorie Mowry .... -.. b ,- ibbean aboard S/V North Stand.


A banana daiquiri without a Northern Lights generator.












Marine Generators I www.northern-lights.com









NORTHERN LIGHTS


















































Bequia has always been known for its superb natural
harbour, Admiralty Bay. From Amerindian canoes thou
sands of years before Christ, to today's ferries and cargo
vessels, it has provided a safe haven for boats of all sorts.
Royal Navy officers wrote glowing reports of the harbour
-l;;~i; tI- "apoleonic Wars. For yachts, it has been a
i Fritz Fenger island-hopped from Grenada
to St* 'l i . iiI I] ... i i i i. ... I
and C i I i II ... II I I I I I
on the 46-foot ketch Carib in 1946.
In 1970, Don Street wrote in the Dukane Yachting
Guide to the Grenadines, "All true sailors love Bequia... [it
is] popular with yachtsmen as Admiralty Bay is an excel
lent anchorage in all weathers." Douglas Pyle noted in his
book about boatbuilding in the islands, Clean Sweet
Wind, that "Port Elizabeth, at the head of Admiralty Bay,
was still an active schooner port in 1972....
The island's population is increasing, tourism has
taken hold, development is taking place. Careened
schooners, whaling tryworks and thatched huts have
been replaced by villas, apartments and restaurants. And
harbour front redevelopment has not been forgotten.
Recently, Vincentian journalist Amal Thomas decid
ed to look at a project in _:- : ;furbishment of
the commercial wharf used i i ... ... I cargo ships.
He got two exclusive interviews: one with Brent Bailey,
a civil -;;;--r and the other with Johnny Ollivierre,
Port i i i, Grenadines Islands.
Interviews on the Wharf by Amal Thomas
On the 18th of June, I journeyed from St. Vincent to
Bequia on the ferryM/VAdmiral I. As the ship entered
the harbour, I noticed workmen with equipment work
ing studiously on the wharf. As I disembarked, I was
greeted by Johnny Ollivierre. He then introduced me
to the project manager, Brent Bailey.
Mr. Bailey told me that he has had experience in port
construction on a large project in Trinidad at Point Lisas,
and this is his second time around on Bequia. This proj
ect started llth May and is expected to finish llth
August 2007, at an estimated cost of EC$200,600.


He then explained the reasons for the refurbish
ment: "Firstly, the wharf was in a hazardous condi
tion and people may not have known that. The expo
sure of steel, and the cracks, are a potential threat to
lives and the environment. We saw the need to
replace fenders on the wharves, preventing boats
from hitting against the structure, replacing pile caps,
bollards and concrete curves. All this will help to keep
the wharf safe and able to withstand pressure. I think
it's a good project in the interest of people and the
environment and its good that you can take the time
to interview me."
I then targeted Johnny Ollivierre, who explained fur
their about the project at hand: "The work being car-
ried out is on the wharf and the ferry ramp area. There
are areas with damaged beams, and piles that are bro
ken, and this weakens the deck infrastructure. So we
decided on the replacement of piles, beams and fend
ers, making the wharf safe for vessels and lives."
I asked about plans for Admiralty Bay for the com-
ing high season and Mr. Ollivierre replied, "During
1, 1..,1. .... we make sure the ship channel is
S i yachts. And for the next season we
are hoping to get an updated chart provided by the
maritime agency showing where yachts, ferries and
other vessels are supposed to dock or anchor. The
authorities are organizing to purchase a vessel to
oversee all the ports in the Grenadine Islands to


includes items of special interest to yachts using
Admiralty Bay.
The jetty located near the vegetable market is used
by yachtsmen and fishermen, and sometimes as an
entry point for cruise ship passengers. According to
the project proposal, the jetty is not properly main
trained and the area surrounding it needs to become
ISPS (International Ship and Port Facility Security)
code compliant. This could be accomplished, accord
ing to the proposal, by extending the fenced area
around the ferry wharf to include the area at the foot
of the jetty. The proposal also includes plans to install
sheet piling and backfill along the existing rubble
beach to provide bow or stern-to berths within the
fenced area for small watercraft. Between the fence
and the berths will be a seaside walkway leading from
the jetty to the main wharf area.
On the other, south, side of the wharf, the area
around the popular public dinghy dock is slated for
major enhancement. As this area, under the historic
almond trees, is often the site for public events, for
which stages must be erected and then disassembled
each time, the proposal calls for construction of a per
manent bandstand under a gazebo. The almond trees
will be preserved. And as the market jetty would be
within the new ISPS compliant zone, the ISPS-inspired
chain-link and razor-wire fence currently at the foot of
the dinghy dock could be removed.


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Tel: (784) 458-7270 Fax: (784) 457-9917
E-mail: wallanch@caribsurf.com HAPPY HOUR 5-6








Bikinis and Bow-Ties:



Vt $

by Summer Westman

A birthday party at a beach bar in the Virgin Islands was interrupted when a slim,
dark-haired girl climbed onto the gift table and called for silence. When all eyes were
turned toward her, she announced, "True love is not about finding someone you can
live with, it:- .1 .. ... .... someone you can't live without. So on Valentine's Day I
asked him a.. I I .. I 'We're 'ettinl married!"


The celebrating friends -and a few tourists -cheered and demanded details.
Where, when and what could they do to help? "Where" was to be on the beach at
White Bay, Jost van Dyke, "when" was ten weeks away, and the list of things to do
was promptly commandeered.
The wedding couple, Michelle "Smo" Smothers and Kevin "Mongo" Raymond, made
their wishes plain: no muss, no fuss, all their friends would gather on the beach with
them to witness their marriage and celebrate afterward. A simple beach barbecue
would make these long-time St. Thomas residents happy. The groom figured about
30 people would show up; the bride knew that 30 people showed up for their birth
day parties. Perhaps they needed to make a guest list and take a head count.
Friends flew into action: reserving rooms at the Sandcastle, Perfect Pineapple, and
Ivan's on Jost; .. "... I ii. barbecue at Gertrude's; and .1 i .1 .... the amount
~f TT-.; i~ I i .i I i I ie bride's wishes were respect' I I II most part,
I .. thing: her girlfriends insisted that she buy a new white bikini to wear
at i i1.... Four friends dragged the shopping-phobic bride-to-be to the Bikini
Stc.1 1 I i Sale Mall to buy one.


The wedding day dawned clear and fair. Relatively flat seas allowed a hundred or so of
S I .. i i i I I .... i.. to make the trip from neighboring islands and anchor
S. I .I. i,-I II I. I I, ts waded or dinghied ashore, where they donned their
black bow ties, visited and drank champagne while eagerly anticipating 1 1 I.. -..
Finally, the crowd quieted, the music started and the bride dancer i 1.. ..I. 11
ered arch down to the water's edge. Two tall friends carried her tc 1. I I 11.
boat where her fiance and the minister waited. Family and friends and a few
tourists -gathered in the water and on the beach to witness the couple vow to love
each other forever, and cheered when the minister pronounced them man and wife.
It was just what they wanted.
Capt. J. Summer Westman lives in St. Thomas, USVI, with her husband, Bill. When
not out on their boat, Excellent Adventure, Summer writes boating articles and designs
websites. Reach her at summervi@earthlink.net or www.livingbydesigni.com.




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Welcomes you to
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A stepping stone as you
cruise through St. Vincent, Grenada and the Grenadines.
Come alongside our splendid jetty and replenish your
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Call sign: "Golf Sierra" VHF channel 16
For further information call Glenn Clement or
Reynold Belmar. Tel/Fax: (473) 443-9110

















Si. i. I I ..ribbean islands with a favorable tide will make your
S i I i .1 le. The table below, courtesy Don Street, author of
S I l I I I..... Iolaire charts, which shows the time of the neridian
.. 1 1 ie moon for this and next month, will help you calculate the tides.
I llll generally tries to run toward the moon. Th I .......
the east soon after moonrise, continues to run east until about .1 I I ......
reaches its zenith (see TIME below) and then runs we I I I .....
Ill l I II i I I nadir, the tide runs eastward; .. I II I
11 I ii h. I. II I runsA I T i Ti... w ,re local,
I .I tide is I.I III I I. ii new and full moons,
For more information, see ', I .,. I .... ..1I the back of all Imray Iolaire charts.
Fair tides!
September 2007 21 1941 11 1153 (new)
DATE TIME 22 2034 12 1235
1 0300 23 2126 13 1319
2 0354 24 2216 14 1405
3 0452 25 2306 15 1455
4 0552 26 2356 16 1546
5 0653 27 0000 (full) 17 1639
6 0753 28 0048 18 1732
7 0849 29 0142 19 1823
8 0940 30 0242 20 1914
9 1028 21 2002
10 1112 October 2007 22 2057
11 1154 1 0343 23 2141
12 1234 (new) 2 0446 24 2232
13 1314 3 0547 25 2326
14 1355 4 0645 26 0000 (full)
15 1437 5 0738 27 0024
16 1522 6 0826 28 0126
17 1610 7 0911 29 0231
18 1700 8 0953 30 0335
19 1753 9 1033 31 0436
20 1847 10 1113










In 1988 I read Gaylord Kelshall's inter-
esting history of the Allied forces' defeat of W ere in ere
the German submarine offensive in there
Caribbean during World War II. While in th e C i
Trinidad recently, I sought him out.
He is now curator of the Trinidad
Military and Aero Space Museum, not
far from the multitude of marinas and by Norman Faria
boatyards in the Chaguaramas area to
the west of the capital, Port of Spain,
and I went there one Monday afternoon
to talk with him.
i .. -..' .. ... .. I ... a house
ma I ... i .. i '* i -1 i containers. Ten metres in front of his verandah, the
...... 1 .. .i . of the Gulf of Paria lapped onto what was once the concrete
i ii seaplane base whose hangar still stood next door.
After the pleasantries, I decided to start with a query about the base, where US
forces were stationed -linri; t- "'r. It was the largest in Trinidad, wasn't it?
"No. They actually 1 i - ... Trinidad & Tobago during the war. The largest
was Fort Read, in which Waller Field air base was located. Fort Read alone com-
prised 241 square miles."
If you asked him, Kelshall could probably tell you the names of all the command
ing officers at the facilities. Among his personal library of 12,000 books, mostly on
military history, are several the 67 year-old former Trinidad & Tobago Coast Guard
pilot has himself authored, including the History ofAviation in Trinidad and Tobago.
He is perhaps more widely known though, and certainly received more royalties than
from any other book, for his book on the anti-submarine campaign. The UBoat War
in the Caribbean (ISBN 976-8054 11-5), as it is titled, has been reprinted in the US
and translated into German for sale in Europe.


.*w= ..


.***.
,. & S

in the Caribbean durig 1942 1943












terminology) were sent to the Caribbean area. The Allied forces (USA, UK, Commonwealth
countries and USSR) were unprepared. The submarines wreaked havoc. By the end of
that year, according to The U Boat War in the Cribbean, 36 percent of all worldwide mer
This map from Kelshall's book on 'the UBoat War' shows shipping losses


chant shipping losses had occurred in the Caribbean theatreduring 19421943ree hundred ad t
It is a seminal work. In February 1942, five German submarines ("U-boats" in popular
terminology) were sent to the Caribbean area. The Allied forces (USA, UK, Commonwealth
countries and USSR) were unprepared. The submarines wreaked havoc. By the end of
that year, according to The UBoat War in the Caribbean, 36 percent of all worldwide mer-
chant shipping losses had occurred in the Caribbean theatre. Three hundred and thirty-
seven ships totaling 1.87 million tonnes were sent to the bottom. Many were laden with
valuable oil and bauxite, war materials from Trinidad and British Guiana destined for
Britain. But the Allies built up their forces, including stationing anti-submarine planes in
Trinidad. By the end of 1943, the U-boat threat had been smashed. Kelshall chronicled
this little-known theatre of the War through excellent research over a ten-year period that
inr i iI .,i .i... 1. U-BoatArchives in Germany and the US Navy Historical Division.
i .11, -I. i i ,. .. ... i ... ... . viewpoint: it speaks of the bravery and
suffering of soldiers . II - i i, i, -., i they fought for. There was a need for
Allied governments' ,,, -1,I,,,. II .. i i .. 'tism during the War to maintain com-
mitment and productivity and even sacrifice, as some of the exhortations on period
posters in the museum reflect. He : i i .i1 in retrospect, it is good for all to look
at the side of the ordinary soldier I ii i
Kelshall insists that the German submarine service, despite having appalling


Bubmariners

la?


Gaylord Kelshall of Trinidad
researched this little known theatre
of the Second World War

casualties (32,000 of 40,000 enlisted perished), was not affected by a type of "poli
tics" as was, perhaps, the German Army which included the fanatically murderous
Nazi SS. "These [submariners] were ordinary servicemen. Generally speaking, both
the officers and rank andfile sailors didn't believe in the Nazi thing, those who
actively promoted Hitler's undemocratic, racist regime. There was only one German
submarine captain, Heinz Eck, who was tried and executed after the War for
machine gunning survivors of a sunken ship," said Kelshall.
Along with monuments in the Museum's yard to Allied servicemen and women,
including Trinidadians (58 died in air force action alone), there is a smaller memo
rial (a large plaque really) to the German submariners. It was erected by German vet
erans who had reunions over the years at the Museum, in the same way Allied vets
have their get together. Though it may seem insensitive to some, it can in no way
be compared, argues Kelshall, to the type of monument like the Yaksukini shrine
which venerates the WW II Japanese armed forces, including war criminals, and
which right-wing ultra-nationalist politicians use to try to revive militarism. A bust
of the great South American Independence fighter, Francisco de Miranda, is also on
the Museum compound, donated by the local Venezuelan Embassy.
U-boats ranged as far as the Gulf of Mexico and the northern coast of South America
I....... ,. I i. mans ever come ashore in the Caribbean? Kelshall answers:
i i There were many places where the home defence could not
guard. But, strangely, they didn't commit any sabot,.: -,, 1. 11 ;..: up a pipeline,
in Trinidad. They did, however, shell oil facilities in i ...
What of the story told of the German submariner who, when captured, was found
with two ticket stubs I i I ,, I ., i los, cinema in his jacket pocket?
"A Captain Adden, i. -1 'i I I .... I I vessel, reported after the War that he
was taken on board a German submarine and shown ticket stubs from the Globe
cinema in Port of Spain and was told 'I recommend the show. Go and see it'. But
there are variations of the story in French Guiana, Curacao and Barbados," said
Kelshall, who wondered if it really happened.
Another story is that the U-boat skippers took on local seafarers, perhaps from iso
lated islands, to help guide the subs through dangerous and uncharted channels.
Kelshall: "I have no evidence of that. What I do have is that they stopped at isolated
islands to get fresh fruit."
Kelshall said the residents of the p .tih t-rit-, i2n-l.-li;n; tq-n British Guiana,
were committed to British rule. They I 1. .. ... i i I .... I in home defence
units and overseas in Allied armies. For example, Kelshall's father, Ralph (who died in
1998), was Chief of Civil Defence in the southern Trinidad city of San Fernando and
I ... . .. in addition to serving as a sterling role model for his sons in
:..-1.11. 1 ... .. I . lifelong interest in military history. Among the duties of
home guard and civil i i ,, was to ferret out German spies, several of whom were
nabbed, including the head of the SS office in Caracas, Venezuela. German nationals
were also rounded up and detained. "People at the time had a feeling they belonged to
i-... i.. to the home country, the British Empire. They were very patriotic. This is
I. I i .. the lyrics of the calypsos at the time."
Kelshall sees the maritime dimension of his Museum as an important one. He laments
the dearth of maritime artifacts locally with very few historic boats of yesterday, for exam
ple, preserved. One exception is the yacht Humming Bird II, in which his countrymen
Harold and Kwailan La Borde circumnavigated the world, the first Trinidadians to do so.
A local archaeology group has dived on a Cri-ni=7 ll--n wreck in coastal waters,
Among the items recovered are "pieces ci ..1.1 -.1 coins, and blocks and
cordage, which are in the Museum.
Still writing i1,,,,. long hand ("Don't know how to use the computer -I let
my secretary ... 11 ii, .i he says), Kelshall looks over the Gulf of Paria waters as
I leave. He is daydreaming. Perhaps of the time when the harbour was full of cargo
boats, destroyers, and tankers waiting to set off in convoy to the UK. And as we
shake hands until next time, there is a glance below to the still serviceable concrete
ramp from where the armed seaplanes once departed to see the ships safely off.
Norman Faria, Compass's man in Barbados, recently vacationed in Trinidad. Next
month: "Changing Times at the Mission for Seafarers".


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or Yvonne and me the biggest dan
gers of Trinidad and Tobago are the
people. Thats right, the people who
tell you not to : 11. Throughout our
cruising in the ,' I ., I chain we have
met many new friends and spoken to
numerous people in the local hangouts. We
discuss our current cruising grounds and
our plans for the future.
Many so-called cruisers told us "Don't
go to Trinidad" or "You need to lock every
i.... everywhere" or "On your own head
S. It annoys me when people spread
this scaremongering. If you have been to
Trinidad or Tobago and have some useful criticism or
advice, great -we can all benefit. But many of the
"don't go there" haven't been there themselves.
Si. 11 .. their alleged "facts" from other "don't go
ti. read reports on websites that tell us of
the dinghy theft and the robbery. They forget to say (or
maybe don't notice) that these events have taken place
spread over five or six years. I read one report from a
well-known writer and cruiser that said "south of
Antigua is dangerous, the exception being Bequia".
I'd like to share experiences of our short visit to the
wonderful twin island state of Trinidad & Tobago and
its people. I'll briefly speak of our visit to Tobago
because there was a lovely article about Tobago in the
July 2007 issue of Compass.
Our daughter Susie booked a flight for herself and her
boyfriend to join us in Tobago. We'd not seen them
since we left Spain. Yvonne and I sailed south from
Grenada at the end of June for Trinidad (we had a
watermaker problem and the makers are there). We
arrived in Scotland Bay and spent the night there prior
to going into Chaguaramas. What a wonderful entry
into a new country! Scotland Bay was like being in a
creek in the jungle surrounded by parrots, pelicans and
vultures. The coastline at Chaguaramas is superb.
On arrival at the Customs dock, we cleared in and
explained our situation to the Customs officers. We
had already arranged for the repair of our watermak
er, so we knew we would only be in Trinidad for one
night before heading off to Charlotteville in Tobago.
Customs were so helpful, clearing us in and explain
:,. ,i. i, I I to sign and stamp our depar
C Iha ir 1o e i. and that upon arrival at
Charlotteville we'd present that same paper to
Customs who in turn stamp and sign it. On departure
from Tobago we'd get it stamped again. So no prob
lems there, and no charge.
We arrived in Charlotteville two days later, having
motorsailed from Chaguaramas to Gran Riviere on
Trinidad's northeast coast to overnight and get a bet
ter shot at Tobago. This worked well and we had a
good daysail north past Store Bay right up to
Charlottesville, .rri-in- t 3:00PM.
The following i 11 having our papers stamped
by Customs, we sailed back south to Store Bay to
anchor and wait for our daughter and her boyfriend.
Yvonne and I dinghied ashore and walked to the air
port. After all the hugs and kisses, we grabbed their
bags and walked down the road to the beach, stopping
for a couple of cold ones on route, of course. Our
dinghy isn't 11. 1 ,.. -. i1, world so we made two
runs out to i i. .I way to start a holiday!"
they both said.
A fortnight goes only too quickly so Yvonne and I
were keen to show our guests as much as possible of
Tobago; it was new to us as well. Store Bay is the com-
mercial end of the island, though hardly Las Vegas,
but there were a couple of hotels and a fast-food joint,
together with some lovely restaurants.
During our travels we stopped in Buccoo Bay, Mount
Irvine, Plymouth Bay, Castara Bay, Englishman's Bay
and Charlotteville. We also took a maxi to
Scarborough and toured the falls and rainforest. The


CVle '"twyws e





by Phil Chapman


highlights for us were Mount Irvine Bay, Castara Bay
and Charlotteville. All the guide books tell us of
Charlotteville and it is truly charming, as are the local
people we met, Streetly and Hilda to name two, a love
ly old couple.
However, Castara Bay, little mentioned in our "Doyle
Bible", was probably our favorite, followed closely by
Mount Irvine *.. I i ..-1 ..... Bay. Castara Bay has
local charm, ...i.I..I I. and amazing snorkel
ing -the best we've seen on our travels so far.


What, me worry? Not in tranquil Tobago.


Restaurants are quaint, charming and inexpensive.
The Cascreole restaurant is right on the beach. Its in
the Bible, but the Bible fails to mention the separate
bar and snooker room, which is huge, with four pool
tables and one table tennis table. It's well-used too, by
local people, holidaymakers and cruisers alike. Don't
get me wrong; it wasn't heaving, it wasn't noisy, nor
was there any of the bad behavior, violence or bad lan
guage that often frequents these places. It sure is a
lovely place to spend an evening.
In fact, we spent three nights in Castara Bay. Once
we had a very good late local meal in Loris and Hazel's
restaurant (L&H). In the morning we bought some
supplies: bread, rum, beer -you know, the kind of
things you need when you're on holiday. The bakery
was a treat: a large clay oven in a field behind the
Cascreole Restaurant. Just tell the lady your needs
and she'll have it for you in an hour, if she hasn't
baked it already.
Our family time was over quickly. 1i. ..i.... with
our daughter at the airport, we asked I .. ...- .1 they
would mind stamping and signing our piece of paper
rather than us having to bus back to Charlottesville.
The officer in charge sat us down, got out his rubber
stamp and pen, asked us a couple of questions (like,


FULL SERVICE BOATYARD





lip, w ar





W r W-


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"Have you had an enjoyable stay?"), then
told t- 1. .--1 --- 1 excellent!
So i..1 ... I .. i .... 1 ...I Tobago.
We walked the streets at night, no has
sle, no muggings; in fact we never even
chained the dinghy. Were we just lucky?
I don't think so.
So on to Trinidad. Having spent just
the two nights or so there previously,
Yvonne and I were really looking forward
to returning and exploring what
appeared to be a lovely country.
Let's get the crime thing out of the way
first. Trinidad has 1.3 million people con
centrated in a relatively small area. Of course there is
crime, some is drug related, but you get that through
out the world. Yvonne and I live in Spain, a beautiful
country, but it too has its share of murders, thefts and
muggings. So you don't walk some of the streets at
night, you lock anything that you leave in what one
would consider a "dodgy" area.
Now, Chaser II is in -i1. ......... .. Powerboats
Marina, our first real ........ i .... months. As
usual, we t _i some money to the local busi
nesses in .... I some services. They have all
been prompt, efficient and the quality of the work very
good. We've walked from one marina to another visiting
the sailmakers, chandlers, supermarkets and once or
twice the on-site bars and restaurants. If you don't
want to walk and ...', ..- ...1. YSATTprovide
a shuttle boat an i 1 i i I. ii ... US$1) it'll take
you from one place to another. Just call on VHF 68.
From a marina and service-centre point of view,
Chaguaramas has all you could wish for and more,
more being Jesse James at Members Only taxi service.
Jesse's business is to cater for cruisers, and what a
service he offers! He'll arrange sightseeing tours, shop
ping trips, market tours, ... 11 .1 1,,... I ntists, you
name it. He even arrang, I ... 1 i jabs. Not
that Yvonne and I need help, but it certainly makes our
stay here run smoother. We like the tours, help and
advice, but we also like to do our own thing and Jesse
can even advise how we can do that!
Maxi buses stop right outside the marina gates. In
fact they'll stop anywhere if you put your arm out, or
even if you don't, if the bus is half empty! Several
times we jumped on a maxi to a shopping mall or
supermarket down the road, or to go to Port of Spain,
a bustling city with good stores and history. The bus
drivers were all polite and the passengers all say good
-rnn as they get on. You don't get that in the UK!
met some very nice people during our stay
here. Some are expats who've lived here for many
years, like Richard and Sue of Dockyard Electronics at
CrewsInn; a great service they provide, too. And
there's Michael, the chairman of Powerboats Marina,
who has offered to take us for a tour and lime around
some of the small local islands.
So listen up all you "don't go theres. In our opinion,
Tobago is a lovely place with beautiful beaches, and
Trinidad is the best island for services we have traveled
to so far. If we have a problem here, I'll write and let you
know. Hopefully we won't, but it can happen anywhere.
So if any cruisers out there are considering coming to
Trinidad, DO IT! I'm sure you won't be disappointed.
Yvonne and I are glad we came. We wish we could
-t.-- 1-1n-r P -;t we have commitments in Venezuela,
... I1. I .. I 1 there" place. I only hope it is as nice
there as it is here in Trinidad. In fact our plans con
stantly change, and we are now thinking that if we
survive the turbulence ofVenezuela, the drug runners
of Colombia, the Panama pirates, the communists in
Cuba and the voodoo in Haiti, we'll probably come
back south to Trinidad -unless of course, we find
somewhere even nicer, before returning to our home in
Spain and a Mediterranean cruise.
Viva Trinidad and Tobago!



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Cuba, which we cruised in May and June 2007, is the safest
country we have ever been in. We had gentle winds all along
the Cuban coast, often able to sail wing-and-wing with
the genoa poled out and the spinnaker sheeted to
the main boom. The people are poor but most
generous; everyone we met wanted to give us
something or feed us as we wandered the
country. Truly a wonderful experience.
My wife, Yvonne, and I sailed our 1978
vintage Endeavour 43 ketch, Australia
31, from Jamaica, arriving at Santiago de
Cuba on the southeast coast. .
the narrow harbour, we headecl I 1i.
marina. We never use marinas, but Cuba
insists we use them wherever available. F r.


- Winds


mndly Fa


Luckily, there are only four on the south coast. However, they were
very secure and we left our boat often to travel inland.
"Wait, 1 ...l1. ... .. ....... the marina manage
er to I ..-... i Ii ,,.-. ome they did, for the
re-1 i a i i I ** .. all. We began to see
how many public servants Cuba has. We were
boarded by three doctors with assistants;
health, veterinary and plant quarantine
personnel; etcetera. Customs ..1. two
beautiful sniffer dogs aboard. I, .. i pro-
a d duced my camera, I was told that photos
were forbidden but finally I was allowed
just one picture of the great Labrador who
c s gallivanted excitedly inside our boat.
K- Continued on next page


Main photo: The anchorage at Baracoa. Founded in
1511, the settlement as originally called 'Villa by Bernie Katchor
Nuestra Senora de la Asunci6n de Baracoa' by its

,I i., I -..... ,, i .. .ii


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DT Represerttlve MattinI.ue
Telqhgnr i5,6 5S, IS ,,a
nulln.mrimsl~alt~iAiltitceit







Continuedfrom previous page
I must add that everyone here, unlike all other countries where we'd been boarded by
officialdom, took off their shoes and walked our decks barefooted (except for one who
donned cotton operating theatre shoes over his old boots). On and on they came, all
delightful people, I .... i I. I- -1 i,. could, apologizing for the intrusion, then sit
ting and sipping I. I I,, ,I II I before inviting us to their houses or offering
advice on what to do and where to go in their district. Some boaties whine and say they
keep losing days because of the authorities, but we enjoyed them.
Santiago de Cuba was our major check-in port. At other stops, the officials would

1:. .... ".





.. ...... ..--














.I.









Above: Some 'luxury items' may be in short supply in Cuba, but not cigars

Right: At some stops, officials would row out to us in fisherman's dinghy to check
passports and visas. I offered to tow them back to shore but this was forbidden

row out to us in a fisherman's dinghy to check passports and visas. Again, they were
always polite. In one case, they told us we could not come ashore directly, but sug
gested we go to a port of entry 40 miles away then come to their village by hire car
to see the magnificent lighthouse. I offered to tow them the mile or so back to shore
(so I could photograph this structure) but my devious plan was foiled as this was for
bidden, and they paddled away in the overloaded dinghy, bailing as they went.
The currency the tourist uses, and Cubans use for all luxury items, is "CUC"
convertible pesos. Luxury items include soap, shampoo and clothing for example.
The CUC shops were stocked with goods ranging from refrigerators and TVs (both
seemed subsidized) to toys and foods considered luxury, such as pasta and tinned
foods. One CUC equals one US dollar, or currently 24 Cuban pesos. Soap costs one
CUC, so a Cuban must take 24 Cuban pesos (eight percent of an average monthly
salary) to a government money changer to get the CUC to buy soap. In one of the
ii. we anchored off, a woman burst into tears after we gave her a cake of
4 -1. I as a fisherperson and traded her catch for stuff she needed: pork, veg
tables, etcetera, and had not seen a CUC for years. "Soap is the most ,, I i, 1 .'I
you could have 'i--n m-," she cried as she showered us with coffee, .1 .. i I
You can buy ', I i'- 1. the money changers, but if you tender US dollars, they are


devalued by 20 percent. We had Euros, which are taxed only two and a half percent
when changed.
I ...I . de Cuba, after all the authorities had inspected us, our vegetables, our
.... Ii i our music CDs, the inside of each drawer and cupboard, we were free
to enjoy Cuba. We walked to the bus stop, where a horse and cart awaited. We were
armed with some Cuban pesos someone gave us in Colombia. "One CUC," the man
S-l-li;n ti- reins asked.
I .,I i I lady paid five centavos; why should we pay 120 times as much?"
"The fare for '-r-. ,-r- is one CUC, while the fare for Cubans is five centavos. If I
am inspected, I 11 .. am, and cannot show CUC when I have foreigners aboard
this government-owned transport, I will be put in jail."
We explained we had no other money as we had just arrived and were heading to
a bank. He told us to hold the money until we wen I ,,,. off and hopefully at that
time no one would see us and ask him to show i he had none. A woman
aboard saved the day by asking for 26 pesos for the CUC she offered. All aboard
chastised her for asking too much and we were ordered by those gathered to give her
50, as she passed two CUC to the man at the reins. This was a lesson in Cuban soci
ology, as no one complained while this ten-minute transaction and discussion took
place -they just waited. Public transport is very unreliable, except for buses that
carry tourists. Often on the country roads, we saw hundreds of people waiting for a
bus that did not come. Private transport is uncommon in the Cuban countryside.
When we had a hire car, people waved CUC as we passed, trying to get a lift.

-4












..... --..













Clipping and clopping towards the town centre was an adventure in itself as we talked
to the six other passengers about markets and moneychangers. When I produced my
camera, they ordered the cart stopped while I alighted to photograph the waving pas-
sengers. The town was clean and had a wide pedestrian street crowded with shoppers
and controlled groups of tourists. Ice cream, at five Cuban pesos, was my first pur
chase. The line was long, as the chocolate ice on a stick had just arrived. We learnt to
buy what we saw when we saw it. No point coming back later, as it would be sold out.
We found a travel agency and Yvonne, a bird-watcher, organized a car and driver
to take us to her beloved birds. This was expensive and in CUC, but anything for
tourists is not cheap by our standards. A guide was compulsory and ours held a doc-
torate in biology, and several other degrees. We soon learnt that many highly quali-
fied people turn to tourism as a guide or taxi driver, because a US$5 tip is half a
month's salary. Our guide was exceptional and fou.. 1 T I...T .... 1 i.
see, the smallest bird in te world Cuba has many.
delighted with each birding expedition.
-Continued on page 37
Co~tinued on page 37


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I ALL A0SHORE...


Nevits- AC



on c


WValk


/6


Above: The view from our anchorage of Nevis Peak; it's unusual to see it not shrouded in clouds


Left: The welcoming Charlestown waterfront is clean and colorful


Nevis is a land of wonderful tropical trails. You
can walk through the rainforest on a carpet of
fine grass growing over small cobblestones laid
in the 1700s. Masked in the shadows under the
canopy and behind the shroud of green, you catch
glimpses of the sugarcane fields and cisterns of long
ago. The air is still and cool and only disturbed by the
sounds of chirping birds and the call of a monkey. The
peaceful silence allows the imagination to run wild,
envisioning horse-drawn carts burdened with piles of
sugarcane on their way to the mill.
We arrived on Nevis somewhat skeptical of what we
would find. We had only heard of it in passing from
another cruiser, who said he preferred to anchor at
Nevis and travel to St. Kitts by ferry. We selected this
option, as we favored the winds and weather by sail
ing on the east side of St. Kitts rather than the tradi
tional west side. This route took us through The
Narrows passage between St. Kitts and Nevis.
We soon arrived at our planned anchorage in Nevis,
at the south end of Pinney's Beach, which proved to be
secluded, sheltered from the south and beautiful.
There is a long sandy beach extending for three and a
half miles to the north. Along the south end of the
beach is a plantation of tall palms fronted by a rich,
green shrub windbreak. In the background is the tow
ering Mount Nevis with her peak shrouded in cloud.
When Columbus first saw it he 1. .. .1. .t looked like
snow and named it "Our Lad I ,I. Snows"
Nuestra Senora de las Nieves -and from that grew
the name Nevis.
The anchorage proved, through our four days on
the hook, to be one of the kindest and most beautiful
we have experienced so far. Only five minutes to the
south at the commercial dock is a dinghy dock lined
with automobile tires. T --in our dinghy chained to
a tire, any fear of 1... 1. II. 1 was immediately dis
pelled for at the en i i 11. I I was a public market
and square where we were greeted by friendly, smil
ing faces. We had a sense that we'd have no worries
about crime while on Nevis. What a refreshing
change, especially after our first few days in St.
Maarten, where 15 boat break-ins had occurred in
one week.
Continued on next page


S~c'


The Botanical Garden ofNevis, where, although it was dry season, we found wonderment at every turn


I., 1 j.al ,,


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Continued from previous page
As we entered the town we felt like we had gone back
in time. The buildings had been perfectly restored and
preserved. This was pleasing to the eye and confusing


Above: At Golden Rock Estate we were greeted by Pam
Huggins Barry, a descendant of the original owner


to the mind, as the only evidence of this modern age
was the flow of automobiles. What a great entry to a
new island for us and a pleasant surprise. No pushy
cabbies and no hucksters flogging wares greeted us.
People just went about their business, but taking the
time to give us a glance and a greeting.
Our first day was a day of discovery which meant vis
iting the tourist office, conveniently located on Main
Street next to the post office and :' .. 11. I... land
ing. We explored the downtown .. ... i .... I the
sidewalks narrow or non-existent. We just copied the
locals as they negotiated the traffic on the streets. At
one point there was a pick-up truck stopped on the
street and from the back the driver was selling a load of
bright yellow honeydew melons. Locals were gathered
around and he was passing out samples. We also had a
sample and purchased the juicy, sweet fruit. Also, to
our delight, we paid the same price as the locals.
Back at our boat it didn't take long to start invest
gating what else Nevis offered, as our first day was
completely delightful. The information obtained from
the tourist board office revealed an island that has
taken great care to preserve the evidence of their past
and maintain the natural beauty of their island.
(Guess what, no garbage strewn around.) Among the
main island attractions are the preserved sugar mills
whose towers can be easily seen from a distance.
On Day 2 we caught a local bus from Charlestown to
a side road leading to Golden Rock Estate, a sugar
plantation dating back to 1801. A fine quality resort
has replaced the crude sugar refining equipment, and
a 50-foot, mountain-spring-fed swimming pool was
......11i i cistern. This resort has been man
Si by Pam Huggins Barry, a direct
S ,, i ,i original owner. The management
encourages artists and eco-minded tourists to enjoy
their resort. For hiking, there are marked nature trails
which wind their way through the plantation grounds
and up Mount Nevis to the top. Another choice is a
shorter 30-minute route through the plantation, which
has been consumed by the rainforest. If exploring on
these trails from mid-afternoon onward you are highly
likely to spot wild African Green (Vervet) monkeys. The
monkeys occupying the forested plantation grounds
are nourished by mango trees which are in abundance.


We arrived at the plantation around noon and were
greeted by Pam Huggins Barry who provided us with
maps and intriguing stories about the plantation's past.
Before heading out to hike, we had lunch, enjoying a
delicious carrot soup and a cold beer in the out
door restaurant. The menu suggested high qual
ity cuisine choices with moderate prices. The
peace and quiet allowed us to focus on the beau
,,,i ., i ., and lush tropical surroundings.
'. ,t anticipation we set out, with a
hand-drawn map provided by Pam, along a
rainforest trail marked Upper Round Road
with hope of seeing the monkeys. The trail
marker is a black circle and has a triangle
S with a U in the center. This road runs midway
S up Mount Nevis and was the interconnecting
Road around the mountain for the sugar plan
stations built in the late 1600s. This trail fol
lows the contour of the mountain and though
designed to carry heavy carts, with a bedding
S.- of smooth round stones carpeted in short
grasses, it makes for excellent walking, 1 .
and horseback riding. It can take up
hours to cover the nine-mile trek of the com
plete road; however, our trek was but a short
l section of it giving us a sample of the pure
magic of this ancient road through the rainfor
est. Here we spotted at close range a Green
Monkey who stopped momentarily on the road
and looked at us in as much surprise as we
looked at it. Then in a single leap it went over the
embankment and disappeared into the forest.
We exited the forest, taking a short-cut back
to town on a residential road. Reaching the
main road, we hailed a bus and rode back to
the main dinghy dock.
SDay 3 t -.; with another visit to the tourist
board II. to ask whether the Botanical

them and confirmed they were. Learning we
were cruisers, the staff in the tourist board
office became enthusiastic and informed us
that the islanders are very serious about devel
hoping the island as a cruising stop. They then
introduced us to the Nevis Air and Sea Ports
Authority General Manager, Spencer Hanley.
Mr. Hanley informed us that beginning in
August 2007 they would commence the pro
gressive installation of 100 moorings for yachts
up to 60 feet. The moorings will run along the
west coast of the island from Oualie Beach to
Charlestown (including Pinney's Beach). In addition
there will be a designated area for mega-yacht moor
ings. They will also be improving their dinghy dock
and providing cruisers' services such as showers,
internet access, laundry services and water. Full boat
maintenance services are being planned for the
future.
We then visited a rustic mineral-spring bath facility
which is a 15-minute walk from the dinghy dock.
Located above the spring are the
remains of a hotel dating back to 1778.
The mineral-rich spring, with a faint
sulphur odor, is believed to contain
healing qualitie- i... .. I i .11
and a natural i i i i
runs alongside the Bath House are
both available for public use at no
charge. We tested the waters and they
were comfortably warm.
To reach the Botanical Gardens you
can take a bus to the road access, fol
lowed by a one-mile walk. We arrived
to find ourselves the only visitors. As
it was July, at the end of the dry sea
son, the flora and fauna was burned
by the sun and only the hardiest flow
ers were in bloom. There was still
interest and wonderment at every
turn. During the moist months, this
property (according to photos) trans
forms into a tropical wonderland of
lush colors and textures. The
Botanical Gardens are known for
their unique variety of orchids.
A one-half mile trek up the road led
us to the Montpelier Estate. On the
left side of the road is a very large,
old, silk cotton tree where the British
naval hero Lord Nelson married Fanny Nisbet, a beau
tiful Nevisian widow, in 1787. (Imagine a tree living
that long.) A short jaunt up the road was the sugar
mill for the plantation which has been converted into
a luxurious resort. We were free to roam the grounds
and house properties. We found them all very inter
testing, inviting and well-preserved including many
photos and paintings dating back to the 18th century.
We hiked back to the main road where we caught a
bus to Charlestown for EC$2.50 each. (Taxis are also
available for all locations.)
On Day 4 we took one of the hourly ferries which run
between Charlestown and Basseterre, the capital of St.
Kitts. The one-way fare per person was US$8 for the
ferry and EC$1 for the port tax. Ti ..... .took about
one hour on the Sea Hustler, i. .. i. I1 l aster Carib


Surf cat ferry takes only 35 minutes for the same price.
(We came back on Carib Surff) We explored Basseterre's
downtown area, which included a dressed-up cruise
ship dock facility and town square called Circus, fash
ioned after London's Piccadilly Circus.
Changir.: -: from the romantic Nevis to the met-
ropolitan . I L Kitts, we found ourselves hurrying
along to the bus depot by the harbour. From there we
caught a bus marked "Sandy Point" heading north
along the coast road to Brimstone Hill Fortress. The ride
was a shock as the bus drivers maneuver their vehicles
as though they were in a Grand Prix race, completely
'i.-rin.- road speed limits and any measure of safety.
I ... I ourselves tense, white-knuckled and totally
uncomfortablE .1. ...i. .ii locals appeared relaxed.
This gave us ... .. i that the buses actually
reach their destination.
The climb to the fort is a mile and a quarter up a
paved, steep and narrow winding road. Taking our
time, we reached the fort in about 40 minutes. On
the way up we stopped at a : ....1.... lime kiln
which was apparently built in tb I -~, .- I manufac
ture lime for the mortar used in building the fortress.
This kiln is a large stone cauldron with fire pits
around the base and steps leading to the top for load
ing. It was amazing to see the quality of the con
struction and to imagine labourers carting contain
ers of limestone or coral to dump into the cauldron.
These are things we have never seen before in our
travels as in most locations time has destroyed the
evidence of the engineering tools of the past. This
- us even more excitement about what we would
i... I at the top of the hill.
The name Brimstone is well suited as the fortress is
built on an 800-foot volcanic dome which still emits a
slight sulfurous odor. The fort tour cost US$8 each
plus an optional single cost of US$5 for an audio guide
of the site which we highly recommend. Though rec
ognized by the world as one of the best preserved 18th
century military architectural accomplishments, we
found the fort more interesting from the point of view
that it was a military assignment designed to protect
Britain's sugar interest on the island which was
threatened by France. Around the fort in all directions
lie the remains of sugar plantations including current
sugarcane fields. The site is in excellent condition con
sidering its age.
Arriving back in the city we were quick to get to the
ferry dock and catch the first ferry back to the tran
quality of Nevis. The contrast between the two islands
is dramatic and we found ourselves longing for the
beautiful anchorage where our floating home was
waiting. On the way, as we passed our anchorage
about a half mile offshore, we spotted a bright yellow
dinghy adrift. It appeared to be our neighboring
yacht's dinghy (as no other yacht in the area that we
were aware of had a yellow dinghy). We decided we
would recover 11, 1.. .1. r our neighbour, so as
soon as we got 11 11. I .. hopped into our dinghy
and headed straight for it. Our neighbours later


Taking aferry to St. Kitts one day, we toured the
18th century Brimstone fortress


explained they had left th i, .i, on the beach and
the tide and wind had i .11 I .1 away. They were
pleased to recover it.
Our four days spent in this anchorage provided
some of the most peaceful, interesting and eco-cen
tered adventures we've come across since leaving the
Bahamas. We cannot help but think that cruisers who
sail right on by Nevis are missing one of the cruising
life's best-kept secrets. It truly is a walk on the wild
side where man has kept the wild preserved and safe.
Bill and Bev Bate are cruising the Caribbean aboard
S/V El Shaddai.








IL^ ASHOR... I '0


We sailed to Errol Flynn Marina in Port Antonio,
Jamaica, from Santiago de Cuba near the end of
January 2007. The rugged setting is lush, tropical
jungle with towering, mountains in the background.
My husband, Bill, and I drank in the breathtaking
beauty as we approached. The marina is a wonderful,
modern facility with helpful, efficient staff and skilled
workers to 1 I .... .. We stayed
on a moorir,. I .11 I I - I ...... i. i - a night for
long term), with free wireless.
We learned that actor Errol Flynn, famous for star
ring in pirate movies such as the 1935 "Captain
Blood", first came here to Portland parish in 1946
when inclement weather ran his yacht ashore. He was
so impressed with the place he made his home here.
One day we took our dinghy and explored Navy Island,
across from the marina, which was previously owned
by Errol Flynn. As we munched on our brown-bag
lunch in the breezeway of his former home, now in
decay and consumed by time, we imagined him enter
training a host of famous Hollywood types, like Bette
Davis and Ginger Rogers, in elegant style.
Port Antonio
Port Antonio is an active little town, a bit rugged and
for the most part unscathed by tourists. The open
market, with an abundant variety of stalls with fresh
produce, souvenirs, wood -'r-inr- music and even
meat is bustling every day i Ii. I except Sunday,
when the town virtually shuts down. When the sun
1 ;- other vendors set up charcoal fires and the
.... sizzling jerk-seasoned pork and chicken
drifts over the market area. Free samples are offered,
tempting the taste buds to want more. Despite our
enjoyment of "hot and spicy" their jerk seasoning was
a little over the top for us.
The pr-'-.-'l- 1-.-ln from the marina along the
waterfr ,"i 11. ,,. i.1111 planted and well :''' 1
was a :. I Ii is and the locals .
stroll, or to sit and visit on the many benches along
the way. The ice cream parlor with multiple flavors
attracts non-stop traffic.
Jamaica's reputation for high crime was quickly dis
pelled in Port Antonio. We felt so secure we left our
boat o ... .... 1 .11 for five weeks while we returned
to Cai i i i, other country we have traveled
where we would have felt safe doing that was Cuba.)
Rafting on the Rio Grande
We asked other boaters for their recommendations
on sights to see from Port Antonio. The top item on
ev .. .- i. . ,,, i. down the Rio Grande.
I... .... i ,, i. ., /VOasis to go together.
The taxi ride was along winding, narrow roads through
remote villages. Houses were perched precariously on
mountainsides among the lush vegetation. In about 30
minutes we reached the check-in point where we were
assigned two separate handcrafted bamboo rafts with
captains (US$48 per raft). Albert Harley, our captain,
took particular care by arranging fresh-cut flowers in the


Above: Sweeping Long Bay is
but this day there were none

Below: Everyone's number on
the Rio Grande


: ......
.. . -_ .. -: -"_. :. "- ."' ;,,. I
--

S .. . ... .. ......
--
: ... : .... .. .. ... ..*....



popular with surfers, arduous task pushing against the current but they'd
in sight sure get to know the river intimately.
About halfway along the route we stopped for a
lunch break and a chance to take a refreshing dip in
e outing rafting on the river. We had no deadlines to meet so were happy
to enjoy all the perks along the way. The bathroom
facility was a squat in the bush.
A pleasant, cheerful lady, Belinda, prepared lunch
over an open fire: fried chicken, dumplings, bok choy,
peas and rice, breadfruit, and ackee and saltfish (the
national dish). Belinda does preliminary preparation
at home before '.rr-in- her load of food on foot about
one hour to the , I then boards a raft that fer
ries her to the other side. From there she hikes anoth
er 20 minutes or so to the lunch spot. At the end of her
day her pots are stashed in the bushes nearby as it is
physically impossible for her to cart i ...
each day. She inherited and learned I. I '. i
how to do the business. The care and attention
Belinda put into the meal and the variety of spices and
seasonings including onions, thyme, jerk sauce, all
spice, salt/pepper, was amazing.
Continued on next page


SSouvenirs, Craft,Tee Shirts, Pareos,
SBathing suits, Furniture and more...
ou IITel: (784) 458 8316
Union I/and Bougainvilla@vincysurf .com
Union I land *mm &
Seatood specialties, Live lobsters (Sept to
Apr), Bar Pizzeria, Pool, Table Games
Sand its Giant Aquarium
Res: VHF 16, Tel: (784) 458 8311
Seaquarium @vincysurf.com

Water Station, Dockage, Watertaxi, Ice
(Blocks & Cubes), Bakery (French bread)
Res: VHF 16, Tel: (784) 458 8878
windandsea @ vincysurf.com

Day Charter, Mayreau,Tobago Cays,
Palm Island, Mopion
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windandsea@vincysurf.com


cup holders on the raft and having an umbrella available
in case of rain. None of the other rafts displayed such
TLC. Heb i .... . .- ,, ..1, leRioGrandefor
the past ** ..- 111. ..I. 1, I, realize it at the
time, -- ....- .... 1." -1 -i captains for the
trip. ..i i I. .1. recommend Captain Albert.
We sat in the bamboo seat as Albert guided the raft
by standing at the front of it poling his way along the
river over calm waters, small rapids, shallow and
deeper sections. The scenery was spectacular with
towering mountainsides covered in thick jungle foliage
in a mass of varying shades of green and dotted with
red, white and purple flowers. The peace and tranquil
ity was awesome. Along the way we spotted some men
dragging rafts up the river on foot. Apparently there is
an initiation period where all potential captains spend
about two years doing this. It looked like a long and


by Bev Bate


4'-c








Continued from previous page
A friend of Belinda's arrived on foot Irrin 1-]d -f
refreshments in a basket on her head: 11 ... i i... I
drink' ur h-d th- mn t t1l t*l-l tnl-T nith-nti


a l -.... I .. . II ... I I I
a l .. I . ... I .. . I ,
n i ..I .... I I I '. 11 I I I i .1 1 I .-
sal 1 i11 1.. .. I . .... I -
a l .. ...... h I ,
th- . I I 1


Left: We also dined at Errol Fynn's ho;
romantically derelict and we brought o0


Boston Jerk and Long Bay
One day we took a route taxi to Ferry Hill where we
had an appointment at a local school to learn about
the education system and the needs of the school.
Afterwards we walked along the road a short distance,
S 1 i i ... i,, Winnifred Beach which
.o i .,,,. i ,,, i i i. area in the past but is
now vacated in preparation for development. Not far
beyond is Jamaica's world-famous Boston Jerk barbe
cue center. Several vendors had rustic lean-tos where
they prepared and served jerk-seasoned chicken and
pork. We had a tasty lunch, but we weren't convinced
it was worthy of the title "Jamaica's best".


Catching another route taxi, we continued along the
scenic coast to Long Bay. The beautiful beach was
practically deserted. The pristine turquoise waters and
large surf make it a popular hangout for surfers, how
ever, that day there were none in sight. We walked
along the beach and marveled at the beauty and pri
vacy we enjoyed.
Reach Falls and Blue Lagoon
Another day our destination was Reach Falls. We
took a route taxi to the turnoff where another route
taxi was waiting for a fare to the falls. We considered
walking but the climb was long, winding and steep
and we chose to ride. Reach Falls is a tourist destina


tion and very commercial
ized. The admission was
US$15. The scenery was
spectacular, with Reach
Falls set in a rainforest with
several cascading falls tum-
bling over limestone rock for
nations. A guide is available
to guard your belongings and
to assist tourists wishing to
climb from one side to the
Other, over the top of the
falls. He patiently helps
plant one's feet to ensure a
solid grip. We swam in the
pool, enjoyed the cool,
refreshing water and visited
with other tourists.
When we emerged we
I expected a route taxi would
probably be waiting to take
tourists to the bottom. This
was not to be, so we began
1 the long descent on foot to
the main road. Going down
was not that difficult and we
enjoyed stopping along the
way, taking photos of the
awesome scenery with the
misty Blue Mountains in the
background. We stopped fre
quently and chatted with
locals, including a man
me... but the house is doing woodcarving. He invit
ur own picnic ed us to view his room full of
beautifully handcrafted carv
ings where I spotted Jesus
and Buddha sitting side by
side on a table.
On the return trip we stopped at the Blue Lagoon for
a quick look. The Blue Lagoon (known as the Blue
Hole by the locals) was made famous by the movie
"Blue Lagoon" starring Brooke Shields, which was
filmed there, and by Jacques Cousteau who did a 52
meter dive. It is fed by freshwater springs and displays
every imaginable color of blue, emerald green and
turquoise throughout the day. We learned that the
Blue Lagoon has recently been purchased and future
development planned.
Next month, Bev and Bill moor at Turtle Bay and con
tinue their exploration ofJamaica.


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We left Prickly Bay, Grenada, before dawn, heading
for Venezuela's offshore islands of Los Testigos, and
made excellent progress under mizzen and genoa. The
equatorial current sped us onwards all day and was
sweeping through Los Testigos at a good three knots
as we made our way to Breakthrough Bay, where we
dropped anchor for the night. The palm trees and
sandy beach tempted us to stay, but we didn't want to
inflate and launch the dinghy just in order to check in
with the Guardia Nacional. Their office on Isla Iguana
was three miles away; three miles against wind and
current would be no small undertaking in the dinghy.
Instead we set sail at dawn the following morning for
S. I the anchorage at Porlamar in the after
noon. Behind the high-rise blocks that line the shore,
the sun was shining over the mountains. A few white
clouds clung to the summits. Pelicans, boobies and
frigate birds paraded through the air or perched pre
cariously on our pulpit.
There were some 60 yachts anchored in Porlamar
Bay. The water boat and the fuel boat wandered
amongst the yachts with cries of "Agua?" or "Diesel?"
This was our fourth visit to Venezuela and we were
i I to be back. Next .-rii;;: -e listened to the
i i radio "cruisers' : I 1I' were no security
problems. CJ gave an excellent weather forecast.
Going ashore, we were greeted on the dinghy dock
by a big Venezuelan in a straw hat. He took our line
and our bag of rubbish with a welcoming smile and a


"Buenos dias". The marina owner, Juan Baro, who is
also an agent for Customs and Immigration, took our
papers and passports, which he returned to us later
that I I. i. .i 1 a cruising permit. The cost was
abou I- -' .. i. ding his own fee. He also
exchanged a quantity of dollars for Venezuelan
Bolivars at what certainly seemed to me to be a good
rate. We then sat outside his office, listening to the
strains of Mozart over his speaker system to await the
shoppers' bus.
The bus runs to a giant out-of-town supermarket
and shopping mall. There are unbelievable bargains in
beers, wines and spirits and excellent value
Argentinean steak and almost every variety of gro
series. Perhaps a few items on our shopping list might
be out of stock. (This time -in the spring of 2007
they had no tinned sardines and no tonics. Last year
they had been short of coffee. They never seem to stock
wholemeal bread flAir -r :;;r:r .1-1 We forget any
shortcomings when" 11. i.. ... I veg area which
is piled high with mountains of pineapples, passion
fruit, bananas, plantains and almost every vegetable I
could wish for. Avocados and mangoes were nearly as
big as rugby balls. I certainly hadn't seen such variety
and quality since we left Trinidad in November 2006 to
cruise the Grenadines and Grenada.
We reached the checkout with a couple of seriously
overladen trolleys. Paying our bill, some furious men
tal arithmetic confirmed that the hundreds of thou
sands of Bolivars that we had been charged for gro
series amounted, in pounds sterling, to less than half
of what I might expect to pay back in the UK. Wine,
also, was about half British prices; beer and spirits
were barely ten percent.
It was then that the full merits of the shoppers' bus
service became apparent as our purchases were taken
over by a polite young man who pack I 11.....
into boxes. He couldn't have been :..... i .
Nothing soft or vulnerable was placed where it might
S- r .. 1 1; the box containing eggs was marked
..- I so that neither English nor Spanish
speakers could make any mistake. Every box was
numbered and the young man then took the whole lot


away, leaving us free to wander round the shopping
mall or to visit the cafeteria.
The bus departed at one o'clock back to Juan's
dinghy dock. There our boxes reappeared like magic to
be unloaded, identified and sorted for us. The bus run
is free, provided by the supermarket; but one is
expected to tip the box handlers. An adequate tip for a
good service is part of Venezuelan custom. In the past,
yachtsmen who :... .I have spent the equivalent of a
couple of hundr I I -. dollars or more in the super
market often only used to give a few cents as tip.
Nowadays, Juan insists on a minimum tip of US$1 per
person. As our pile amounted to 11 large boxes, such
a tip seemed barely adequate.
The man with the straw hat now appeared on the
scene with a big barrow on which he offered to trundle
our purchases to the far end of the dinghy dock. He
would also help to load the dinghy if needed. Again, the
customary tip is expected, but where else in the
Caribbean would one ; I such friendly, helpful and
unassuming service? I. .. prices ashore are no more
than a fraction of what one would pay up the island
chain, it is only reasonable that a tiny part of the prof
its are passed on in return for such valuable assistance.
The tide was low, and there was less than two feet of
water at the dinghy dock. An even shallower sand bar
lay a short distance offshore where small waves would
develop into 1 I .. .., .... .. . .. iming
and luck wo..I Ii .. I I .' I I I 11 con
tents of our overladen dinghy dry. But we made it safe

,, ,i r-,,,ih I Il u i*r -i i ,, ,,,,- h I,. , [, ,
Sf. ',, ',, ." ,,, , . ,I ,11 ,,,. .I


ly back to Skybird and Alan heaved the heavy boxes up
onto the deck. I hastily stowed the more vulnerable
items into the fridge and we opened a bottle of wine.
M .. ;I : .. ...... 1 ,1 ........ ; icretejun
gle i .i... i .. ..i.. . i i i Som e are
in ....- I I ."l, 11 ...' I i ,'tly aban-
doned. The largest of all is the empty shell of what had
once been a luxury hotel, closed since a disastrous fire
some 17 years ago. In any gaps amongst the high
rises are the shantytown dwellings of the Venezuelan
poor. Here, empty plastic bags line the roadsides and
small children play amongst the rubbish. It is not
unusual to see a young man scouring through the
contents of a rubbish skip in search of empty beer
cans to sell for scrap. Small wonder that there is a cer
tain element of crime coupled with such poverty. It is
also commonplace to see heavily-armed police wan
during round the streets and in the shops.
Venezuelan crime exists. But it has also become the
subject of much exaggeration. A fleet of between 50
and .-.. .. 1 i.i .. ..1 ... i. .. .. IPorlam ar.
M an 1 -I I . .. ,.- .. I i ..... ear after
year. Relative to these numbers I don't think there are
any more incidents in Porlamar than in many other
anchorages in the Caribbean. True, we are all advised
to lift our dinghy without fail every :...1i nd true,
there are certain "no go" areas ashoren I not the
same be true for many seaside towns the world over?
At the same time I don't wish to underestimate the
problem. I could name at least five excellent
Venezuelan anchorages which we have ourselves vis
ited over the years but which we have decided not to
visit this year due solely to reported incidents. Even in
past years we have never dared to explore much of the
mainland coast and have always stood well clear of the
Paria Peninsula.
After a few days, once we had our fill of retail thera
py in Porlamar, with our lockers loaded with whisky
and wine and our veg nets and fridge filled to burst
ing, we set sail without delay. Our next destination
was another Venezuelan offshore island, but a very
different one.
Next month: Splendid isolation at Isla Blanquila.


Skybird's Final Caribbean Season:


PROVISIONING AT PORLAMAR


by Mary Robinson


Blue Lagoon, St. Vincent & the Grenadines
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* Surfshop Watersports Centre Boutique
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have come to the conclusion that I might be addicted to boat shopping. Having
just made a jaunt out of Panama through Costa Rica, Nicaragua, Honduras,
San Salvador and into Guatemala and the Rio Dulce and returned boatless I'm
getting slightly uneasy.
One danger sign is that I liked lying back on a squishy bus seat, with twice the
room of economy class on a plane, and a foot rest. I liked having a pillow tucked
under my head and a soft blanket thrown over me, new movies shown to me, and
no ..i 11 ...1. 1 .i hes. I 1.1---1 V.;-.-;; -h. .r Min; ---;;; man peeling grapes for
me i i ... ... i,, her fa - 11 ii i I .... me food and beverages.
Most of all I liked Customs ., I ..... ., ,, ....... 1 I didn't evenhave to get
out of my seat.



BOATLESS IN

PARADISE
by Julia Bartlett

Then there are all the reunions as I keep meeting up with old friends. In every
n-.i-ri ~- there are parties waiting. Plus, boat shopping is a great way to make new
I ... I .... I see new places. I am having a ball. And I get to spend my days explore
ing other people's boats.
..... iI .. i. .. i i 1. I might know too much about boats. I can do the
.I, I' "II.'. ,1 I 1 .i. i. m my head as I just glance around.
When I bought my first boat I was a believer. When the own( i ,, i
gasoline-driven monster in the narrow dark cave and said i ... i

There might be another problem.

I might know too much about boats

engine for anyway? It's a sailboat I 1i ...1.1 II .ot a point." Duh!
God looks after drunks, fools, ,,I ... i ,,. -1 ii.. boat buyers and I was proba
bly all four. My first boat was a gem and it fitted me like a .1 i ...... -r -
first time buyer, and I'm savvy when it comes to boats., I've .. I ,.
months so I'm not sure I even qualify as a sailor. That only leaves one out of four. I
think that I might be on my own on this one.
The boats are entertainment in eir own right. Take this one. The ad said Yanmar
engine. I like Yanmlar n P;- t-ecause I am familiar with them. On board I found a
Yanmar prototype I .1,. I, ... 1066. It didn't bear any resemblance to today's
engines. The 20 something French male owner had thoughtfully left starting instruc
tions that went something like this: Open the seacock, put in neutral and crank like
hell. This time I am not exaggerating. I am female, weigh 110 pounds, and am near
er 70 than 20 so I thought that particular boat might be a tad ambitious for me.
The next one advertised that it was ready to go to sea, everything was included; all
I had to do was step on board. There were a couple of minor oversights; I'll mention
just a few. The foredeck :- ..:-t f:f 1-..- like a trampoline, a lightning strike had
taken out the advertised ...i .1 1 i I .nd VHF, and when the mast had been
restepped, they had forgotten to hook up the electrics.
Then there was the se: Ti. 1i i1 ,,i, I .... ..i. that I fell seriously in lust with,
only to find it .: 1- -i .. .. I. .. ...i..i I I termites and the owner would
n't accept my 1 I.. I. perhaps was a blessing.
I also found a pretty, but decrepit, pilot cutter where I would have had to lean over
the boomkin to haul up the outboard that drove it, a maneuver which the young
male owner, this time Italian, admitted periodically defeated him.
One owner showed me over his boat himself and he talked so fast and so loud that
I was reeling around like a cartoon character by the time I got off. All I can remem
ber is that he kept repeating that the boat had lots of Stuff, and that most of the
Stuff appeared to be rusty.
A beautiful Tartan almost seduced me until the owner admitted that the gasoline
engine was a bit of a problem because it had seized up when he got water in the oil.
I wasn't too keen on the fact that the gasoline tank was under a berth in the salon,
either, and he was rigid on a price that didn't reflect the minor inconveniences of
shipping a new engine in to a remote location.
Maybe I'm just a tad too fussy or, more likely, I just don't have enough money for
a boat that I really want.
What do I want?
Just an old fibreglass boat that's pretty enough to make me swoon, with rigging
that isn't about to fall down, a long keel, a tiller, perhaps a neat little Yanmar and
some nice woodwork. A windvane t-.-ri;: -ystem and tan sails would clinch the
deal. Is that too much to ask for I - ........ I promise I'd cuddle it every night.
Sailor and writer Julia Bartlett has done extensive research on subjects as diverse
as port rot, pets aboard and Caribbean hurricane holes. She can be contacted at
juliamary2000@yahoo.com.



Read in Next Month's Compass:


Up Guyana's Essequibo River by Steamer

Why Boats and Bees Don't Mix

What's New for Yachts in Grenada


... and more!


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SEPTEMBER 2007



Y ARIES (21 Mar 20 Apr)
Your sense of humor will help you afloat in dealings with
argumentative crew or cruising pals. Don't get your sails
aback at how silly it all is.
d TAURUS (21 Apr 21 May)
A female crewmember or i i i i i ,
11 l.1 l l.. 1i -d I ... .. Iii I II i iI ...


SGEMINI (22 May 21 Jun)
Tn.I ill1 1 time to patch the sails in any mis
I i crew. You may be in for a pleasant

SCANCER (22 Jn -23 Jul)
Misunderstandings may cause choppy conditions most
of the month, but in the last week, insight into the prob
lem will be like oil on the waters.

Q LEO (24 Jul 23 Aug)
Your love life will seem to be in irons until the 9th, when
good times and romance sail your way.
T VIRGO (24 Aug 23 Sep)
Your renowned attention to detail in business will be the
right sail to hoist on the 3rd. With creativity in your sign
now, you should be able to use this aspect to chart any
course you want.
LIBRA (24 Sep 23 Oct)
1. l ii, li ... I 1 1

and get everything back on an even keel.
TL SCORPIO (24 Oct 22 Nov)
fi-1 ~-nt v currents in love this month,
S. Try to maintain your sense of
i...... .. i I too picky with your mate.

SSAGITTARIUS (23 Nov 21 Dec)
While male crew or cruising companions will seem to
Si. .l es will be helpful and

SCAPRICORN (22 Dec 20 Jan)
Youll be feeling a rising tide of creativity, so take the
-rr-ri-;;-t- t- -- -1-l n.... --vs to deal with difficult

^ AQUARIUS (21 Jan 19 Feb)
This will be a month of verbal opposition and .
communications. The last half of the month will I I,
most trying. Unplug the radio and get out the signal flags.
SPISCES (20 Feb 20 Mar)
You will have romantic rough seas and could end up
on the rocks. But remember that every ending brings a
new beginning.





Crossword Solution

ACROSS 38) HOLES 17) NORM
1) BOAT 40) PILOT 20) KNEE
3) TAIL 41) ROPE 21) CATHEAD
6) LOOSE 43) 0' NINE TAILS 24) AND
8) OF 45) SAND 27) SET
11) CASTING 46) ROW 28) LAP
14) CLAWS 47) ODE 30) LARBOARD
15) SO 31) FALL
16) WIND DOWN 32) STOPPER
18) LEE 1) BLOCKS 36) SHIP'S
19) HOOKS 2) SEA 38) HEAD
22) EVEN 3) TACKLES 39) SKIN
23) ABEAM 4) LOT 42) PAW
25) CAT THE 5) RIG 44) TO
26) GUT 6) LASH
29) IDLE 7) OLD WIFE
33) AT 9) FISH
34) PURCHASE 10) HARPINGS
35) RATS 12) THE ANCHOR
37) TOM 13) NOOK


JslanJ oets

SA passing pirogue
Named Digrnt6,
r Ariler ison
like a Caco bird,
Ghosting along, fishes peacefully,
outward bound gently rocking,
from the Bocas, dipping to the swell.
slipping by "Wha' hoppenin' dere, mon?"
iridescent the owner shouts.
Grenadine shores,
with a cargo of While farther out,
Angostura bitters, the weekly
asked rums, Geest-boat arrives
cayenne and cocoa beans, with the dawn,
seeking green gold.
Ocean currents
leave feathery, Sliding past
foaming traces a sea graped shore
among inshore reefs, where,
home to the under leaning,
violet-black Negrita. wind-swept palms,
amongst
Far out at sea, tangled mangroves
in the standing proud
Islas de Barlovento, on a jungled shore,
summer squalls a boat's a-building
loose a new generation,
,i i,,. -.I wers to replace these
1 ..... i,, tired old timbers
slate-coloured of aged Acajou.
virga.
-Nicholas Lee


DINGHIES TODAY

-i ... rough the anchorage,
i drive so fast?
Have you r--.-n1, engagement?
What's 1. 11I . between this life and your last?

If you drive more slowly,
You have time to stop and say hello,
To watch i t i- tl- t1- -1+,i: up,
See the i.., .. i i I I 1. below!

To look at all the different boats,
And ponder whence they came,
To s .....i. ... .... ... wonder
The i i . ....

So why not drive more slowly,
Chat and wave to cruisers new.
Or better still lift your engine
And row it's good for you!
-Susie Stanhope








C j ia c ori 'CATS'

ACROSS
1) Cat : beamy yacht with only one sail
3) Cat : inner part of 21 Down
S4 5 6 7 6) I
8) 1 .1 "o" means in 42 Across
11) Act of heaving anchor with 1 Down and 3 Down
8 9 10 14) What cat does off lee shore?
15) Order to quit hauling on a 40 Across
16) Breeze or wrap
11 12 13 14 18) Downwind side
19) Catch anchor rings with cat
22) Catamarans sit on an keel
15 16 l7 23) At right angle to the vessel's length
25) anchor with 1 Down and 3 Down
(2 words)
18 19 20 26) Cat_: a tough cord used in music, sports
_, ... taking a cat nap is this
21 33) What cat and rat have in common
34) Mechanism that increases force applied
35) Ship's cat's prey
22 23 24 1 37) Male ship's cat
38) Cat : spaces in the quarter for springlines
40) Book of sailing directions
25 26 27 41) Cat back-__: line for h.ulin.1 19 Across
43) Cat : whip I.j
45) Litter box filler
28 29 o0 46) Use oars
47) to a Cat": poem

DOWN
34 35 36 1) Cat : rollers that pull anchor on board m
2) cat; Caribbean name for octopus
3) 1 Down and
37 4) Crew's allowance
5) Cat ....1 ... t carried well forward, m
often will .
86) Small II ....... cat 42 Across
7) 1.... I,1-'. I 'words) 0
9) .,- '. ,.I food
41 42 10) Cat_ : short ropes taking up slack in shrouds
12) Cat or raise (2 words) n
13) Corner where cat sleeps?
43 44 17) It is the for catamarans to be beamy
20) Support for 21 Down
21) This suspends anchor clear of the bow m
45 46 47 24) A cat __ mouse game
27) Make sure the anchor is this Z
28) Cat : slang for weak tea n
30) Port 0
31) Cat : rope rove for 34 Across to raise anchor
32) Rope or chain woven through anchor ring -0
Subscribe to the 38) Where a ship's toilet is located
39) Outer hull planking
42)bbean Cat'ompasss On:rufflneed surface of water caused by puff
44) Word with broach, heave or stern >

www.caribbeancompass.com Solution on page 30



parlumps marooned





Marine Survey throughout the Caribbean

PURCHASE- INSURANCE- DAMAGE

Bob Goodchild
Accredited Marine Surveyor

Society of Accredited Marine Surveyors
RYA Ocean Yachtmaster (Commercial)
Accreditation American Boat and Yacht Council

Tel: Grenada (+1 473) 407 4388
surveyor@flyingfishventures.com


Parlumps suddenly realizes he should _
have buried the shells after breakfast
Instead of taking a nap next tohcIn. Please Recycle this Paper








: B0 412lO0m K R IW S BYJLIA0BARI TIETT


M Pit] C iALLU'i 1!




An Ocean to Cross: Daring the Atlantic, Claiming a New Life, by Liz Fordred.
McGraw-Hill, 2001. Paperback, 272 pages, ISBN: 0071373942
Don't Kill the Cow Too Quick: An Englishman's Adventures Homesteading in
Panama, by Malcolm Henderson. universe Inc, 2004, paperback, 230 pages, ISBN
10: 0595319491
Last month I read two stunning books that are different in many ways but they are
both true stories, both are told with heart-warming honesty without a trace of self
pity and I will never forget either of them.
The first, An Ocean to Cross: Daring the Atlantic, Claiming a New Life, is written
by Liz Fordred who built a
boat with her husband, Pete,
and then sailed it from South
2 Africa to Florida. That on its
S.own is quite a feat but con
W side doing it when neither
( partner has the use of their
Body from the chest down. It
perhaps takes someone who
has spent time in a boatyard
I ' ,, ,r appreciating the
-I, 111. a wheelchair
must present. Then imagine
coping with a storm at sea,
getting to the head, being
seasick and getting in and
out of a dinghy.
The obstacles they met
were not just physical, they
were financial, emotional and
social, such as the blatant
prejudice from authorities
who wanted to veto the proj
ect by refusing to allow them
to go to sea after all their
Shard work.
That was contrasted by the
hard work and support of
friends and family: food just
appearing on the dock, a
small donation arriving by
mail every month from an old
lady they never met, and the selfless sharing of knowledge, expertise and time from
other sailors.
The yacht was built in Liz's mother's garden. Parts that had taken months to com-
plete had to be sawn off on its way to the ocean and it was dropped before making
it into the water.
This is t i .......- ... . i'.' I ,, to tears more than once, and I have
sincerely .... I ,,- I ii , II I .1 my legs sea, or land for grant
ed again.


The other book, Don't Kill The Cow Too Quick, by Malcolm Henderson, is the story
of a retired English art dealer I , i. mestead on one of the islands in Bocas
Del Toro on the Caribbean coa-
Why would boaters
be interested in this
book? Boats are an
essential part of life in
the Bocas and the sto
ries Malcolm tells
about learning the art
of boating are hilari
ous; I could identify
with more than one of
them. One night,
about midnight, I was
rolling around in bed,
doubled up with
laughter and with
tears rolling down my
face unable to put the
book down. The next
day I got some queer
looks from my
Panamanian neigh
bours. Perhaps they
thought that I had
snuck a man into my
apartment.
There is a percentage
of cruisers who are qui
etly on the lookout for
that special slice of
paradise where they
could settle when they
move ashore again,
and this book captures
exactly the sort of
learning experience
they can expect. I have
heard similar stories
from other sources but
Malcolm tells them
with a charming hon
esty and all the jokes
are at his own expense,
reminiscent of James
Herriots style in his
famous vet books. He
paints wonderful pic
tures of what it is really like to live immersed in a Caribbean culture on a small
island. If you are looking for a quiet life, don't do it!
I had a "blind date" with Malcolm one : .1. 1 ... 1.- wants to buy a larger ver
sion of the cat boat he already has and ........ i i.. .. I recommended that he ask
my a I .1 I !i .. .I .... -arolina to Panama. At 75, Malcolm looks 60 and
his e'..ll..- .... I , I ..... every page of his book. I wish he would find time
to write another.
Both books are available from Amazon.com.


I M PROUDLY SPNSOREDBYPE'eIT emi VINCENT RESOT


eS


DOLLY'S DEEP


by Elaine Olivierre


no known antidote. In Japan, the government has regulations on who can pre
pare and serve fugu so that no one dies by mistake!
When puffer fish are 'p* 'nin. there may be more poison in their bodies, so
fugu is served mostly ,,.I- I I the reproductive season. Japanese fishermen
who catch the puffers when the price is low often keep them in cages in the sea
until the price rises. Fish kept this way turned out to be less poisonous than wild
puffers. 1. . .1 University bred some puffer fish in captivity and
altered I .. ..-.... I I I shellfish and starfish. Their puffers turned out


RETS


- riT


Lets continue our look at fish farming. Perhaps one of the most unusual
Marine creatures farmed for human consumption is the puffer fish 1 i. 1'
porcupine fish in the Caribbean). There are many different types ci '"i II
worldwide, ranging in size from a few inches to over two feet but they all have the
same defence mechanism. The skin of a puffer fish is very tough, has no scales
and is covered with spines. When the puffer fish is in danger, 't ;-'1 .t-r into
I its body so that it swells up like a prickly balloon. This make .1 .11, ,, for a to have no poison at all.
predator to catch hold of it. The puffer fish also has a mouth which is strong The demand for fugu led the Japanese to raise puffers on fish farms because
Enough to bite off a finger! the farmed fish are less of a risk to the consumer. However, there have been
So, why is this strange fish so much in demand? reports of chemicals added to purify the water there which may actually be harm

t restaurants which is surprising because parts of the puffer fish are very poison- attractive option for gourmet diners.
ous. The liver in particular contains a deadly toxin called tetrodoxin. A tiny By the way, when the tetrodoxin is very diluted, it can be used as a painkiller
amount of this poison paralyses muscles and causes respiratory arrest. There is for rheumatism and arthritis.
--- ------ ---------- --------- I




















In Search of the Buccaneers, by Anthony Gambrill 2007. Macmillan
Caribbean. Hardback, 258 pages, with illustrations, maps, glossary, index, and bib-
liography. ISBN: 978-0-333-97652-4.
Anthony Gambrill has been interested in buccaneers since obtaining a rare copy
of Alexander Exquemelin's Bucaniers of America, published in 1684. He has lived
in Jamaica for 50 years and is chairman of a large advertising agency; in 1998 he
received his Master's degree in History. Mr. Gambrill has created a thoroughly
researched and beautifully illustrated text covering the glory days of the bucca
neers, from 1630-1700.
He posits that the buccaneers (whose name derived from their practice of smok
ing meat over a wooden barbecue grill, or boucan) were not pirates, though their
exploits -such as raping, pillaging, and plundering -came perilously close to
piracy. The difference, and it is a fine legal one, was that the boucaniers were mer
cenaries who were usually (but not always) engaged in state-sanctioned terrorism
against their enemies. Furthermore, the buccaneers experimented with a form of
democracy a century before Thomas Jefferson. This allowed the Dutch, French, and
English buccaneers to ally in sacking Spanish cities in the Caribbean. The bucca
neers' six decades of success and eventual dissolution ultimately led to the encour
.--t of greater colonization in the West Indies by Spain's European rivals.
11 olumbus, Spain ruthlessly pursued the New World's gold, silver, sugar
and dyes; they outlawed colonization by their rivals, and even trading with other
European powers was forbidden. This was as unenforceable as it was impractical,
and rogue traders from other nations found markets for their goods with Spanish
merchants. French pirates and "privateers" (those with Royal sanction) such as
Hawkins and Drake attacked Spanish settlements with gusto in the 16th century,
forcing Spain to fortify its ports. As the mineral-rich mainland settlements at Vera
Pr"- r'rt-,n P-rt-1-ello and Nombre de Dios drew colonists away from Santo
c ....... ... ... 1i ..- ... Western Hispaniola (Haiti) were abandoned and their live
stock roamed the countryside. In 1605 a Spanish decree was issued to abandon all
m;;; haciendas in Western Hispaniola, since the Crown couldn't afford to
I i 1'.I .... Owners were ordered to move to the city of Santo Domingo, which
was heavily fortified.
The boucaniers were frontiersmen living off the wild cattle and pigs from these
abandoned Spanish settlements on the north and west coasts of Haiti. Rough and
rugged, they honed their marksmanship skills by hunting, and they survived by
trading meat and skins for gunpowder and shot, living in camps much like the
indigenous Taino Indians. They cured their meat over open fires on raised sticks of
lignum vitae, lived in conical huts held up by a centre pole, and slept in hammocks.
Their members consisted of shipwrecked .i .- i i r,.i. ... i i, ,, i
colonists escaping religious persecution or ..... ... ,, ,,,
servants, freed slaves, and even a few Indians.
They were not averse to taking Spanish ships as prizes, which they originally
attacked from dories, until they became a nascent naval power. As their numbers
increased, the Spanish tried to wipe them out. This forced them to pool their
resources and develop leaders and plans for their common defense. Eventually,
many made the two-mile journey to the island of Tortuga, off Haiti's north coast,
to get farther away from their Spanish tormentors and built a defensible port.
Tortuga before 1630 had so many wild hogs that it was called the Island of Pigs
(L'isle de Porceaux). Some of the settlers were .. 1. -1. lonists from Nevis who had
been displaced by the Spanish attack there ... I- Tortuga became the first
colony '' .-;- -- t .----; 1. -lnial power. Alas, the experiment in democ
racy w: .. ..-.. --..I .- I ...I. and French settlers fought, and in their
weakness they were attacked again by the Spanish. Eventually Jean LeVasseur
S -i;t-1 r----r-r but once in power he became a despot solely interested in
.......... i .. fort was built overlooking the harbour, and LeVasseur
reigned like a king for 12 years.
The English buccaneers, meanwhile, had joined the armies of General Venables
and Admiral William Penn (the father of the founder of Philadelphia) in 1655 and
taken the island of Jamaica from Spain. Port Royal, the capital, became the Sodom
and Gomorrah of the western world and the base for such notable leaders of
English buccaneers as Christopher Myngs, Edward Mansfield and Henry Morgan.
As governor of Jamaica, Sir Thomas Modyford sold "commissions", or letters of


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marque, for 20 pounds each, legally allowing buccaneer captains to pillage Spanish
ships and towns so long as the Crown got its cut -16.66 percent.
Meanwhile, on board the buccaneers' ships, captains could be voted out if they
lost favour with their crew, and the crew's pay was strictly determined by a per
centage of the booty obtained ("no purchase, no pay" or "no prey, no pay"), after
expenses. Morgan's looting of Portobello, Panama, in 1668 netted his crew over
700 men on 12 ships -a massive 120 pounds per person, while his more daring
feat of taking Maracaibo, Venezuela, in 1669 netted a crewman only 30 pounds.
This money was generally squandered on drink and women in Port Royal, whose
purveyors were the great beneficiaries, but merchants and other colonists were
also positively affected by the sudden influx of such great wealth. The marvelous
cover art of In Search of the Buccaneers depicts such a debauched scene and is
taken from a French painting that now hangs in the Marine Museum in Paris.
The chapters of this book describe the buccaneers' campaigns geographically,


n Sct.erchl i uj

ccaneers


rather than chronologically, and are mind-bogglingly comprehensive in describing
the various Dutch, French, English and Spanish leaders, governors, admirals and
captains of the day. It is a little confusing to be backtracking in time during some
chapters, but the number and range of hostilities reported lead one to conclude life
was not easy for the early colonists, who were constantly being preyed upon by
agents of hostile nations as well as being victims of smallpox, yellow fever, dysen
tery and tuberculosis.
The buccaneers' story ends around 1700, although piracy flourished for another
half century and has continued to this day. By the 18th century the buccaneers'
type of legalized piracy was considered counterproductive by their rulers in Europe
-the galleons of Spanish gold and silver were in decline, and peace briefly flour
ished among the old adversaries. Instead of bringing in wealth, the buccaneers'
exploits were hurting the fragile stability of the colonial planters and deemed bad
for business.
In 1692 Port Royal suffered a cataclysmic earthquake; thousands drowned when
two-thirds of the port slid into the sea. By that time, Henry Morgan had beenjailed
to appease the Spanish, released from the Tower, knighted, and had lived out his
years as lieutenant-governor of Jamaica. When he died in 1688 he left an estate
worth over 5,000 pounds, but his grave sank into the sea when Port Royal was
submerged, a fitting end for the world's most famous buccaneer.


MAC'S PIZZERIA










In addition to our famous pizza we offer
seasonal specialties and fresh baked goods.
Open from 11:00am to 10:00pm.
Closed on Mondays
Situated in Admiralty Bay, Bequia between
the Frangipani and Plantation House.
For Reservations: VHF Ch68 or Tel: (784) 458 3474









A $*ebwetd feetqes,


4 $az44t.o% hiqkt-inse fatM,


ab a 5itMue Lisi

by Aubrey Millard


Departure
Planning a 1,200-mile passage to Cuba on our 1978
Ontario 32, Veleda V, we departed English Harbour in
Antigua by 0800, January 4th, with a double-reefed
main, as the winds were predicted to be 20 to 25 knots
for a few days. Within an hour we had shut off the
engine and were cruising along "wing and ." -
knots in brisk Force 6 easterly winds. I ii -.
seas caused quite a bit of yawing, but the Raymarine
self steering system worked quite well and held Veleda
on course in spite of the three-metre (ten-foot) over
taking swells. At least we were going in the right direc
tion, as we wcr- h---li;; west ....... ....
288. Com ing i ... uba .11 I 1 I 1.11 ..
situation, against these same winds!
In th- nin- we followed our usual sea routine
I, i .1 Judy went to bed shortly after sup
per while I took the first watch from about 1900 to
2400, with our friend Doug enjoying a nightcap of
whiskey with me after doing the dishes before he went
to bed. The winds held easterly at Force 5 to 6 (15 to
25 knots) all night and intc th- -rn-;;; --it-h three
metre swells. Judy had the :... I I i. ... I**) to
0400, and Doug the morning watch from 0400 to
0800. We enjoy .. i ,. c; --.r-1 ;.;;; especial
lyas he assumes I '. I ,.11 -.1 ... which he
insists on doing all the dishes after meals (maybe
that's why he always wants to take us out to local
restaurants while at anchor) and getting coffee and tea
ready for us first thing in the morning.
The Medical Emergency
I got up at 0700, and Doug apologized for not hav
ing my coffee ready as he thought I would not be up


before my 0800 watch. He went below to start get
ting it for me. I asked him if he was sure he wanted
to do so in this heavy following sea, to which he said,
"We'll see.
In the cockpit, I was familiarizing myself with the
morning weather and sea state when I looked below to
see Doug having some problems with the coffee. We
use a conical plastic basket with a paper filter and set
it on top of a steel thermos in the sink, pouring hot
water through the ground coffee. He had spilt the bas
ket and had the right sleeve of his white knit cardigan
messed up with coffee grounds. At first I thought he
had just spilt the basket and was cleaning up the
mess. He seemed busy at getting the thermos and bas
ket under control, and I thought, "I too have occasion
ally spilt the basket, with appropriate curses as I was
cleaning up the mess". Doug didn't curse. In fact it
was not until I noticed skin peeling from his left wrist
down his thumb that I was aware he had badly scald
ed himself. I immediately called Judy and went down
to see how serious it was.
It was bad! Rather than holding the basket, he had
held the thermos, and when the basket tipped the
boiling water he was pouring spilled over his left wrist
and hand. He still didn't yell or curse, and I think he
was still trying to clean up the spilt coffee grinds. I
took the thermos and basket out of the sink while he
flushed his hand with cool water from the tap to clean
the wound. I then got a two-litre measuring cup filled
with chilled water from the refrigerator to plunge his
hand in while Judy got some burn cream and band
ages to dress the area.
Continued on next page


~ ci


we thought n- ru eupuuCuba
we thought Cuba


CLEAR SKIES FORECASTED FOR SAFE HARBOR
CLEAR SKIES FORECASTED FOR 5ThJ SAFE HARBOR


Sen Boca Marina, Curaino'- firici ris.Ie h.brh,,r hI.h ..pirniq u
for k'.kasIC .lk ajlcd i'ul-iiJd tcl hurrm.ine Nil In ti x* pnll' red
*a. LL r of Spmni.h ateIr I.b. cru Hexa Marina i rim)nLkriJe
cont it Ihe i'lril ;ini ,1l l- r yachl unchorages in the ( iitrlhh',n

* Th' inrIl Jadiukte deL -'ia on Ciuragrra
* I ul'in' dik x: ritTnred in Hollnnd.-
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I I.. U I.i1 hIcl i n J.-. ing Ir.] d -l in.; Rir M1 uin.. ..
r I Is. 1I.1st- in h.x i'i'I Jppn-ipr.J. rI.nK0- a- nficTaJ.
3*$(ru ,Ka Iannr r .1 J.aIe hrt.ir Rti nller
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For infonnation on rates and facilities,

T Hw iu, PC K.I -I.Ir t .ra % 41
Scall 767"'1 : -i %-25 99
I ,TI .Ih.,r.rr- -lrl..tlJ nr -. PLr.ll..TIT..
TL. Arl.[..r '. .rir -l in..1lI... n im T W T.
i ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ' ,T...h ,l=,l'l' l',,l n;r


C,4
r







Continuedfrom previous page passed Montserrat and Nevis, and would have had to
She dressed his wrist and hand with Flamazine, a beat back against the wind to return to either. We
burn cream recommended by our doctors before we thought it best to get Doug to a clinic as soon as pos
left Toronto in 1998. (We have a very extensive med sible to assess and clean the burn, and to consider if
ical supply prescribed by our doctors before we left, he could stay with us for the rest of 11. ,i i,
and fortunately have not had to use much of it other should head immediately back to ... .i i .1
than a few bandaids and a couple of antibiotic treat ment which we could not provide on board. Looking at
ments for cuts.) To keep the cream in contact with the the charts again we realized that St. Croix in the US
burned area, she wrapped Saran Wrap around it, and "'ir-in T1 .1;-1 was only 75 miles to the northwest, and
taped it off. We made a sling out of some :. I .... ... ., e altered course for Christiansted on St.
rial we had left from the curtains Judy .... i i II Croix's north coast. This meant a night time first entry
main cabin, and gave Doug some Tylenol 3 to ease the into a port.

i i i

. ,, 'il .-, '
.. .
1 *



&


I
~ ' .,- "- i -


'. -. - l



A* X
S" ) ' S ? .. i u




pain. He was very stoic about the situation. If it had Chart showing our nocturnal course into Christiansted
been me, I would have hollered loud and clear when I Harbour and the Gallows Bay anchorage
did it and been c ..... .. i ,. i I i I the
pain. Not Doug. I I..... I I I I .. I i port
settee, his bunk while with us, and started to consid- A Hazardous Night-Time Entry
er our options. We made good time on a broad reach with the 25-
This was the second day out and we still had 1,000 knot winds on our starboard quarter. We had a limit
miles to go to Cuba. T holler t the computerized ed amount of information on St Croix, other than a
chart, Judy thought ol I .. I I Rey in Puerto Rico, 20-year-old Virgin Islands pilot and our computerized
145 miles away to the west-northwest. We had already mapping system. No other charts! The last sentence


in the pilot on the entry to Christiansted said, "It is
imperative that the entrance into Christiansted
Harbour be made in daylight..." as the entrance
around the east end of the island is shoal-studded
between Buck Island and the main island, and the
actual entrance into the harbour is a zig-zag course
between several shoals and 111 ... islands. Without
a doubt, this was our most 1.1. ..n and dangerous
night entry.
Judy did a great job of plotting the multiple legs on
the C-map on our laptop, and had it hooked into our
Garmin 128 GPS for our night entry to Christiansted.
The just past full moon didn't rise until after we were
in, and as a result we had a very black night with
nothingbut shore 1 .1 ... i i I .i.i I .. . ition
aids to guide us. 11 i 1 i 11 1. h r the
crestline of the island. We were totally dependent upon
the C-map, GPS, and our limited "mark one" eyeballs
(our depth sounder was not working, and we have no
radar). As we rounded the east end of St. Croix down
the channel between it and Buck Island, the wind kept
up at 30 knots astern of us, with one-metre following
seas, causing Veleda to yaw ten to 20 degrees to port
and starboard of our GPS course line. I wa 't--7.
using the ship's compass rather than the i .
didn't know how much leeway we had in the channel.
The compass did not have an operational compass
light, and I wore a red LED headlamp to see the com-
pass course. Judy was down below at the laptop
screen directing me from the C-map, and calling up
the magnetic course I should be steering.
Once past Buck Island we called the marina by radio,
just in case anyone was there. No such luck! However,
we got a response call from Avalon V, a Canadian boat
we met down at Hog Island in Grenada. They were at
anchor behind Protestant Island, at the far side of the
harbour, where we had anticipated going if not to the
marina. They recommended n-t -.in- t that anchor
Sas it was quite crowded, .. I ...I .... I us that the
i, I dock was at the far side of the marina.
To make matters worse, there was a one or two
knot tidal current astern of us, setting us down
i. .......... .. .. ..... ofwhich
1 i 1 .1 i I .. I II setdown
below the next buoys and had to crab our way against
the current to round, but not overshoot, them.
Another time Judy said there should be a buoy dead
ahead, and we should turn to port. But -there was
no buoy in sight! Turn anyway! Okay!
Continued on next page


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Continued from previous page
Additional confusion was created by the sight of
other buoys marking a secondary channel north
around Protestant Island, a direction we were not tak
i --i; these flashing green and red buoys in a
.,. i black harbour created a degree of uncer
tainty: were they for our intended channel or the other
channel? Both Judy and I trusted our C-map more
than the confusion of flashing buoys. The situation
reminded me of "Blind Pilotage" exercises I did for my
watchkeeper's certificate in the Canadian Navy when
all the bridge windows would be covered up and I had
to navigate on instruments only.



After Doug's galley mishap, he donated burn
dressings which we presented to Nurse Pansy
Franqois at Woburn, Grenada


As we worked our way cautiously around the last few
buoys towards the marina, we still could not see the
docks, or have any idea of how they were laid out. There
were no lights on the docks, just a black indistinct
stb 1... 1.. 1. F. 1.l .. 1 ... to even approach. I saw
a ..I ..1 .1 ... . tomyport, outsideofthe
entrance channel, and decided to go towards them and


if possible anchor between them. I had no idea of the
depths outside of the channel markers, but thought if
they could anchor there, so could we, as we draw only
four and a half feet. I crept Veleda up to the starboard
quarter of the outermost anchored boat and dropped
the hook. By the time we settled to a secure anchor, our
stern was a few feet out into the channel, but what the
hell, we were secure in the ominously named Gallows
Bay at Christiansted (1745.02N, 06441.96W) after a
scary night-time entrance.
Next morning we dinghied in to the fuel dock and
informed the people at the marina chandlery of our
situation. They were most helpful, checking with the
emergency department of
the hospital and calling
Homeland Security at the
airport for us to be able to
check in to US territory.
We walked to the Customs
and Immigration office a
couple of hundred yards
down the harbour where
we met with a very co
operative officer. He called
a cab for us from his
mobile phone to send
Doug and Judy to the
emergency clinic at the
hospital, and I remained
to do the check in formal
ties, after which he drove
me to the hospital.
I filled out an entry and a
departure form. The forms
were for a 48 hour period,
and if we were there longer
we would need to come
back for more paperwork. There was no charge for the
completion of these forms or any overtime incurred. I
was mildly surprised at this relatively simple efficient
entry formality, as I know airport security for the US
involves personal and baggage searches, and would not
have been surprised if he requested a search of Veleda
The reasonableness and co operation of the Homeland
Security officers was greatly appreciated.
At the hospital, we waited from 1100 to 1530 before
Doug was seen. The scald was inspected, cleaned and
re dressed with Silvadene cream (basically the same
as the Flamazine we had used) and wrapped with
gauze bandages. We were told the burn was bad


enough (deep second and possibly third degree) that
he should return to Canada for further treatment.
D o .. ,, ,, .1 .. i.....
go, I ,,I ,,I I, ,,,,I I .... .. I II.
his continuing with us.
This was the first serious injury we have had on
board during our nine years of cruising. We are aware
that any mis-step could result in a major accident
causing a broken limb, head injury, crushed fingers,
burns or scalds, or even a man overboard situation.
This incident has caused us to be that much more vig
ilant -and I have made more instant coffee at sea
since Doug's accident, rather than the more precari
ous filtered coffee!
A Silver Lining
In Toronto Doug was well cared for as an outpatient,
and he was given a large batch of dressings to protect
the wound between debriding sessions while it was
healing. He had many dressings left over, and gave
them to us on our spring visit to Canada to donate to
a medical facility on our travels.
There is a large international cruising community in
the T-: TI71-n-1 ..-. -r .- ;;-ir the village ofWoburn
on 1 I ... I In July, we donated the
dressings to the Woburn Medical Station, presenting
them to Nurse Pansy Francois, who then gave us a
tour of the facility. The medical station was re-com-
missioned by the Basic Needs Trust .. .....
in February of this year after damage. I... i i ...
Ivan which devastated Grenada in September 2004.
The rebuilding was funded by the Government of
Grenada, the Caribbean Development Bank and the
Canadian Internati .. .1 i ... ..i .. However
the station is still -1. .I I ... 1" .... .. and fur
nishings. We returned later in the day to donate an
electric kettle, and a gas bottle with regulator and hose
for their cooker, which we had noted were needed.
Thanks also go to Deborah and John Gerber of Sea
Witch long-time liveaboards located at Hog Island, for
the information about the needs of the station and for
transportation to and from the facility. We would
encourage more cruisers to donate to worthy causes in
communities in which they anchor or hunker down in
marinas, in addition to just buying groceries and sup
plies as their contribution to the economy.
PS -We never did reach Cuba, as after leaving St.
Croix we had to divert to Kingston, Jamaica, due to
storms and to repair steering problems. We arrived at
Kingston without charts or pilot book, but at least this
time we entered in daylight.


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a 19.roor hotel with bar and restaurant two pools. a
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Onsite amenities and services include a bank/ATM, a supermarket,
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Tel: 284 495-5500 Fax: 284 495-5706
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VHF Ch: 16







Continuedfrom page 23 ...Cuba
Music was a highlight, too. Tov ..-... i .11. had "music houses" where for a dol
lar you could hear exceptional .. i. ... 4:00PM to whenever. We bought CDs
from many groups and relive Cuba as they play.













"s
I.6



Orr



Cuba: No amps, no bling, no problem

Tourism is enormous in Cuba; the few US citizens who visit enter via Canada and
Mexico. The resort hotels are all-inclusive, keeping tourists away from the real Cuba
and the Cubans. We sat down at one such hotel's restaurant and ordered a bowl of
pistachio ice cream (the first for a month) and beers. We did offer to pay, but the staff
were confused at the offer of money. A one CUC tip solved the matter. At another
hotel's bar, I was challenged. "Are you in the marina?" I was asked as I looked down
at my wrinkled yachtie clothes. "If not, you must pay CUC 17 to be on our grounds,"
the waiter said. Then he added, "But that is ridiculous, so leave us a tip and you can
drink and eat all day."
Yvonne's brother, David, and his wife, Irene, arrived in Cienfuegos, where we were
waiting, and we toured inland before heading for the offshore islands and lobsters.
It seems there are no small lobsters in Cuba. Fishermen in rusty concrete boats with
bits falling off would throw lobster on our decks looking for a trade. A dollar's worth
of rum gave us five grand lobsters. We also ate -1..... and turtle given us. Many
islands had good snorkelling but due to the main ..11- f seafood, we had no need
to shoot fish. David did land an enormous tarpon, which we released.


ta .t^ h. B^^S9 ji&2 :


Havana has some wonderfully restored buildings (as well as dilapidated, unre
stored buildings) and we delighted in walking for miles. The Capitol, where the one
time democratic parliament operated, was a masterpiece and we spent hours explore
ing its nooks and crannies.
The Cuban family unit is very strong. Grandma is always in
the house to look after children while both parents work.
Unless the family owned the house before 1954, all houses are
m--m-nnt n- -I] The extended family lives in one house; we
I ....I I ... ,generations crammed into a house as best
they could manage. On our inland trips, we stayed with fami-
lies in beautiful homes which operate as guest houses. All the
pre-1954 furniture, paintings and porcelain are displayed.
STherewe. I I .1... delicate interior --"rt-r- 1n of
0 course, I i.i . ..,, hosts. We pa. i a
night, the Government-prescribed amount. The owner pays a
monthly fee to the Government and we filled out papers as we
arrived. Authorities can arrive at any moment to check the
books of such a house, and jail or large fines ,-il i-unish
any cheating. Neighbours count the number I ., -- and
report in. To one particularly generous family we tried to offer
a gift of an old electric drill. The head was aghast, "If I took
S that the neighbours would report it and how could I explain?
Why, I could end up in jail."
Private enterprise does exist and we bought great pizzas from
a vendor with a street oven for five Cuban pesos (20 US cents)
but these are intended for Cubans to buy, as tourists are not
meant to have Cuban pesos, only CUC.
Two months was all we were allowed in Cuba. We were
Headed next for Norfolk, Virginia, to refit our boat. As
Australians, we had been treated as inferior beings by USA
embassies in Colombia and Jamaica, who wanted us to wait
S.months for an appointment to get a visa for the States. In
Havana, at the United States Interests Section of the Swiss
Embassy, our visas were issued the next day. One fact that impresses or depress
es the USA citizens is that the United States Interests Section is a seven-storey
Ii I..1 ,. vithin at least three acres of secure f --in; and has a very large staff.
S1I I -I is processing over 200 visas a i I Cubans (as well as two
Australians) to visit the USA.
After David and Irene departed from Isla de Juventud, we sailed for Maria la Gorda
at the western end of Cuba, to check out. Then, before June 1, came Tropical Storm
Barry, the first named storm of 2007, so we sheltered along the northwest coast of
Cuba, island hopping each day. As soon as the weather improved, we sailed for
Beaufort, North Carolina, and entered the USA I I -...i the Customs simply
told us we could not come from Cuba to the I ... i I Iny Cuban cigars. We
showed our US visas, issued in Cuba, which amazed them.
We look forward to seeing many USA mates or at least talking to them when we
get to the internet.
Bernie and Yvonne Katchor have been cruising on Australia 31 for 13 years.
His book Around the Next Bend, about Australia 31's voyages
in the rivers of Venezuela and Guyana, is available at
www.adventurebooksofseattle.com/comingattractions.htm.



IT'S MUCH MORE
THAN A MARINA: IT'S HOME!

-'- r


Over and over again our guests refer to our marina as their "Home"!
Join us this summer and continue to enjoy the hospitality.

WE OFFER:
S24 hour security
S120 concrete slip berths
SElectricity: 220V/ 50amp; 110V/300amps
(single phase and three phase)
16ft channel
Fuel dock and bunkering
SFree satellite TV at each slip
Telephone hook-up
Shower facilities
SWireless internet, banks and laundry within the complex
Pick-up and drop-off from major supermarkets
We monitor VHF channels 16 & 79A (alpha American system)
P.O. Box 4540, Airport Road, Sint Maarten, N.A., Caribbean
Tel: 599-5442309 Fax: 599-5443378
Visit our website: www.sbmarina.biz E-mail: reservations@sbmarina.biz


EflFr~.

a' ',







1lrge part of what's so appealing about the
risingg life is the variety of peoples and places
experience. Sometimes these experiences
are a bit different than we are used to, but that's the
islands, Mon.
Fowl
Annually, we live aboard for a while in our favorite
boatyard. Cooking is a chore so when the marina's
grocery store bought a rotisserie, we took advantage of
the spicy chickens they cooked.
This was a chicken night. The Captain left me sip
wr


ping a "dark and diet" and admiring the golds of the
evening creeping over the harbor, while he went for the
chicken. He was gone a while, but the Captain's a
sociable type, so I didn't worry. Eventually he was
back with a warm bag. Plopping it on the table, he
said, "You're not going to believe this. I went into the
store and looked to make sure there were chickens in
the machine. Yes. So I went up to the cashier....
He says, "Is one of those chickens available?"
She says, "No, would you like to pay for it now?"
Pause, try again.
"Is one of those chickens available?"


by Betty Fries


This photo was taken 552 miles north ofSt. Thomas
en route from the Chesapeake. There was no wind,
so Captain Lany grilled what else? chicken

"No, would you like to pay for it now?"
T -nr pause, look around.
.. I have one of those chickens?"
"Yes, would you like to pay for it now?"
We chuckled all the way through dinner.
Fowler
Being a bit insular, we don't speak French. That


doesn't stop us from enjoying some of the lovely
advantages of the French islands. However, provision
ing can be an adventure.
i i -... ,, i'i. I .. of St. Pierre, on Martinique, we
' i 1 ... i i grocery, two streets back from
the wharf. Pate is always on the list, but this time we
were looking for a chicken for the grill. Happily, there
are usually pictures on the food wrappers. We brought
our purchases home. Now, the Captain has some very
firm ideas about cleaning chickens, so he goes at it. In
a few minutes I hear:
"Mate!" (Thats me.) "There's no breast on this chick
en!" .- .. .. 1. ..1 1 reast. Still, enough for two peo
ple f i 1..... i -I .11 plates are loaded with grilled
chicken and sides.
Bounce goes the fork. More determinedly, the
steak knives come out. No go. This is the original
rubber chicken!
Plan B: 24 hours later we have chicken soup, Yum.
Most Fowl
There ought to be a law in Tortola, BVI, that every
man, woman and child must eat roast chicken for
Sunday dinner. That ought to eliminate the genetical
ly defective birds that start crowing at 1:00AM thinking
it's morning.
Sort of Fowl
We were in one of the Grenadine islands, and opted for
grilled chicken and rice from a roadside stand. Taking
our hot foil packages, we sat under a tree looking out
over the bay. Unwrapping my chicken, I looked at it for
a moment before I realized the drumstick was eight inch
es long! Oh well, tastes just like chicken... sorta.
Absolutely the Fowlest!
According to the pickup truck driver turned impromp
tu tour guide in Great Inagua, Bahamas, traditional
Christmas dinner was/is roa=t fli;-n.;- Makes me
think that Inaguans must be ,, .1 1 .- f gravy, with
that much neck to work with. I also have to wonder how
they fit those drumsticks into the oven!


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The Versatile Christophene
We eat a lot of crunchy christophene in stir-fry. The flavor is similar to a zucchini sum
mer squash, but christophene has only a single seed. My husband calls it the 'West
Indian mushroom" since it tends to acquires the flavor of whatever is cooked with it
Christophene is a pear-shaped member of the squash family which originated in
Central America, cultivated by the Mayan and Aztec Amerindians. Christophene is
now cultivated in the world's tropics from Australia and Madagascar to China and
Algeria. It has many names, christophene to the French, chayote in Spanish, cus
tard marrow to the Brits, cho-cho for West Indians, and vegetable pear or mirliton
in the US. There are two basic varieties, smooth or prickly.
One cup of christophene has only 25 calories and almost no fat or carbohydrates.
However, it is a source of sodium (salt). It also has some fiber and Vitamin C. A tea
made from christophene leaves is a bush treatment for hypertension and is reported
to dissolve kidney stones. Christophene is very versatile and can be eaten raw (grat
ed or sliced) or cooked: boiled and mashed, fried (especially good in stir-fry) or baked.
Raw christophene juice is difficult to wash off, so oil hands lightly before peeling.
Baked Christophene
4 christophene, halved and seeded
2 Tablespoons olive oil or melted butter
1 bunch chadon bene, chopped
Salt and spice to taste
Wash, but do not peel christophene halves. Place in a baking dish with the cut side
down. Brush with olive oil or melted butter and sprinkle with the chadon bene, salt
and spices. Bake at 350F for 40 minutes.
Christophene Soup
4 Tablespoons olive oil
2 cloves of garlic, peeled and sliced thin
1 large onion (red preferred), chopped
2 christophene, peeled, seeded and cubed
large ripe tomatoes, chopped
1/bunch chadon bene, chopped
Salt and spices to taste
Half of a hot pepper, seeded and minced I
1/2 Cup water
Grated cheese and/or breadcrumbs to garnish
In a large skillet heat the oil before adding the garlic and onion. Then add
christophene, tomatoes, chadon bene, salt, spices and water Sinmmer for half an
hour. Top with grated cheese and/or breadcrumbs.
Christophene Onion Quiche
1 large onion, chopped
3 christophene, peeled, seeded and cubed
1/4 Cup butter
1 firm tomato, chopped
1/2 Cup grated cheddar cheese
Salt and spice to taste
2 eggs, beaten
1/4 Cup milk
I medium red sweet pepper, sliced into rings
1 unbaked pie shell
Saute onions and christophene in butter until cooked but still firm. Mix in the
tomato. Add half of the cheese, salt and spices and pour into the unbaked pie shell.
Mix the eggs with the milk and pour into shell. Cover with remaining cheese and
pepper rings. Bake at 350Fs for 45 minutes, or until the egg mixture is cooked
This can be changed into an omelet by omitting the pie shell.

Christophene Sweet Pepper Salad
2 christophene, peeled, seeded and sliced very thin
1 large sweet pepper, preferably red, cored, seeded and cut into matchsticks
1 Tablespoon olive oil
Juice of 2 limes
Salt and spices to taste
In a bowl, well mix the christophene and sweet pepper pieces with the oil, lime
juice and seasonings Let stand for at least 20 minutes before serving
Christophene Casserole
1 medium onion, chopped
2 cloves garlic, minced
1/2 pound minced beef (or chicken)
2 Tablespoons canola oil
1/2 sweet bell pepper, chopped
2 Cups christophene peeled, seeded, and I
1/4 Cup tomato sauce
1 leaf chadon bene, chopped
Salt and spice to taste
2 Tablespoons butter or margarine
1/4 Cup breadcrumbs
In a frying pan brown the onion and garlic with the minced meat in the oil, then
add sweet pepper and christophene pieces. Mix in tomato sauce, chadon bene, salt
and spices before dumping into a buttered casserole dish. Cover with breadcrumbs
before baking at 350'F for 45 minutes.
For the Gardeners
Perhaps you have seen the christophene plantation on the road from Arima to
Blanchisseuse in Trinidad Christophene grows as an attractive vine, but it takes a
lot of attention to grow. This vine loves the sun, but also needs plenty of water and
humidity, and a fence or a jammnrh (trellis). The easiest method to grow this veg
etable is to locate a farmer and beg a plant. Failing that, select two christophene at
the market. Ask the vendor if they have any that are over ripe and ', i i... If not,
set the christophene in a warm window, but not in direct sun. In a I I it will
start to shrivel and wrinkle and soon sprout a bud. Plant the seed, bud upwards, in
a clay pot with sandy soil. Lightly fertilize with 12 24 12. Once the plant catches,
move it outdoors where the vine can climb. Provide it with some shade, such as a
banana leaf or a board. Do not fully cover it. Water regularly and use 12 12 17 2 mix
when it begins to blossom. Christophene tends to produce better the second season.
Although christophene is 1- I ... I seems to like having brothers or sisters
around. You'll probably ge, .. ,,,'I -I .1 plant a second vine on a nearby fence.


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Our beautiful Cabo Rico, Spectre, got hauled out
here last week and joined the boats on Row D. We
have cleaned up everything inside (I admit I am fas
tidious) and put on the tarp. Tomorrow we head back
to the city, leaving the boat here until the next cruis
ing season.
It is a good yard: a bit pricey perhaps, with lots of
rules, but well-run and responsible. Trees all around
give great protection. With the sun on your skin and
the sand firm underfoot, it is a pleasant yard to work
in. Besides; we have lots of friends here. Billy and
Dawn, that couple we met in Sainte Anne, have their
Tayana 37 in our row. They have been cruising for
years. I don't think I have ever known a couple more
"at one" with their boat. Next to them is that family of
keen racers we met in Antigua with their brand-new
Beneteau. They sail everywhere. I suspect the engine
is too small. The two teenage sons talk about carbon
fiber and sheeting angles all the time. Beside them is
that reserved Canadian couple with the Alberg 37 who
seem very content with it.
You have to love the shape of boats. When they are
up on the stands you get a chance to admire their
underwater lines: the sleek overhangs of the Alberg;
the chubby cheeks of the Tayana; the delicate bowl of
the Beneteau poised on its fin keel. Each one is a dif
ferent creature.
We did not get very far this year because we had to
stay somewhere convenient for the grandchildren. We
read a lot and I did odd jobs around the boat. I must
say the jobs have been a little harder this year. My
body seems stiff. My loyal wife and longtime cruising
companion has evidently noticed it too. Last week she
was unusually blunt.
"Look at you. You are all hunched over like an old
man. Your hand trembles when you walk."
She made me go to a local quack who prescribed
some tablets. I don't believe in pills but I took one with
my coffee this morning just to keep her happy.
The travel lift is grinding up the yard with another
boat for our row. I have seen that beat-up Morgan
before. I remember the bent pulpit and the scars along
the topsides. It must h -- -; h-r-l .r r-;-n -n its
side at one time. Now I: 11 i 1. ... I met
him in Marathon, a single-hander with a .in-r beard
who was arguing with the marina staff. I-i ', I next
to us in the yard so we will have to get along. And here
he comes, -h -1-i;n mad about something.
"Look al I..- He is brandishing the marina
brochure. "They charge two hundred I...-. I ,cks to
put the boat on the stands and, on toI i i. .i twen
ty-five bucks every time you want to move a stand to
paint the bottom. Twenty-five bucks to move a frigging
stand? What a rip-off. No way, Jose!"
Well, it takes all sorts.
That pill I took this morning. It's quite remarkable. I
feel distinctly different, more limber. Look, I am walk
ing upright. My hand is not shaking. The doc said to
take one a day but I think I will try a few extra this
-.nin. and see how I am in the morning. That way I
., I. I out what these pills can really do. Anyway it
is encouraging. Perhaps I can get back to my old self
and be more adventurous next season.

It is ou. 1.-i ....1. Tl. boat is shut up so we are
--441-;; ..... i .... i trailer. God, it is stuffy. My
'' '. .ently. I can't sleep. I will go for a walk
until I get tired. I tip-toe out of the trailer. It is curi
ous, all my perceptions seem heightened. My muscles
are on edge, like a racehorse in the starting gate.
What a beautiful night!
How strange the yard looks in moonlight. It is quite
transfigured. The sand has turned to dazzling snow.
The black trees stand stiffly, alert as sentries, holding
their breath with expectation. The boats have grown
larger. Their swelling bodies lurk in deep shadow. In
the bluish light their covers gleam like wet fur. I imag
ine that I have strayed into the secret dormitory of
some huge marine mammals, giant walruses perhaps.
When the night breeze moves the covers these crea
tures seem to stir in their sleep. I hide in the shadows
so as not to disturb them.
What was that?
I thought I heard a voice. A cold shiver grips my neck.
I must be imagining things. I have noticed that when it
is very quiet, the mind makes sounds of its own.
No, there it is again, a moaning female voice.
"I am glad it is over...."
Now I am wild with fear, my hearing acute.
"They push me too hard...."
The voice is coming from that Beneteau! Some poor


woman has been left on board.
"We are always pounding upwind, straining the rigging."
I should rush to help but my limbs seem paralyzed.
Then, right behind me, an intake of breath. I turn
with horror. On the hull of the Tayana, close to the
bow, an eye has appeared, a small, shrewd elephant's
eye, with lashes. It closes and opens again.
A deep voice speaks: "The things we put up with.
But listen; if they look after your gear you will be safe
enough. Eventually they will get tired of it too. Long
ago I made a point of performing poorly up wind. It
took a while, but our lot finally gave up rt'in -nd-
waited until they could get to places on a re I'
they do that I try to give them a smooth ride."
The Beneteau shakes her covers. I can see the hull
move as she takes a breath.
"I don't mind carving upwind in flat water. That is
what I am made for. But this pounding....
The lips on the plumb bow compress tightly.
"You have to be patient." This quiet Canadian voice
is coming from the Alberg. "For a while, my couple car
ried too much sail. I had to pitch everything out of the
galley onto the cabin sole a few times before they
caught on. Now we get along fine."
I can hear other voices murmuring all down the row.
My eyes catch the open sores on the Morgan's flanks
oozing in the moonlight. The Morgan is talking to its
neighbour. Its neighbour? That is our boat! I refocus
my hearing.
The Morgan said "I would kill him if I got the chance.
He is so incompetent. Half the time he is drunk. We
have been aground, hit docks, hit other boats. He never
:. .... ..... .... .-.hamed to be seen like this."
i .. i. .. 11..11 ..... all around now. Conversations
.. .. .... .. all over the yard. I am frozen with fear.
I I -I - go places."
That is our boat answering! An eye, a moist, black,
whale's eye now glistens at the bow. A crescent of
white appears as the eye turns to the Morgan.
"I have a couple of old farts who never go anywhere.
Can you believe three months in Vero Beach? On a
mooring? Sure, they fuss about varnishing and remov
ing every speck of rust, but what for? I am an ocean
boat. I just wish they would sell me to a younger cou
ple who want to do blue water. I would show them
what a real boat can do."
I am furious! Old farts? I -, ,I .... i,,.i,
"How dare you say I.1 Ih I I i.
Caribbean several times."
All the boats are suddenly hushed. A silence sweeps
across the yard like a hiss. But I can tell they are just
h -l-l; their breath, listening. The whale's eye closes
... I i back into the hull.
"Come back," I shout.
"John. Is that you?"
It is my wife calling. She is coming down the yard in
. ..1 ... i 11 sailing boots.
.. i.. I ..... taking to? You sounded angry."

We are back in the city now with all its noise and
hurry. I have been dragging around to specialists.
They say I have a neurological disorder. It is progress
sive but it can be slowed. TI t.l-i;n: different pills
now. They seem to control -.1.. - and they don't
keep me awake all night.
Reluctantly, after repeated family discussions, I call
the boat yard.
"We have to sell our boat, Spectre. It is on Row D."
"Row D? Just a minute." A young cheerful voice. He
must be new on staff. I can hear shifting papers and
voices in the background.
Someone in the distance says, "Is he calling about
the Morgan?"
"No, Spectre."
There is more mumbling, then the young voice
comes back on the line.
"It is okay. Your boat is okay. So we will tell the bro
ker that 'Spectre' is for sale and have him advertise it.
You may be in luck. There was a young couple here
yesterday looking for a boat like yours to sail to New
Zealand."
He sounds way too glib and cheerful for a serious
moment like parting with a boat.
"Thank you. Please have the broker call me...what
was that about t]. .
"Are...are you i ,,
"No. Why?"
"Well I was not here at the time. I just started last
week. Apparently the owner moved the stands to paint
the bottom. We don't allow that, you know. Anyway
the boat fell on him."


HAUL OUT

by Peter Ashby










THE




MILLIONAIRES


by John Guy

At a marina somewhere south, former stockbroker Jack Chap joined J.P. Morgan on J.P.'s 56-foot Morgan Rico.
It must have been a bad day for J.P. "I tell you, Jack." said J.P, "This boat will eat you alive. My annual expense
es are at least a hundred and twenty-five thousand dollars. This marina wants more than eight hundred a month,
plus electricity. And everyone wants a bit of me, like that Manuel, the dock worker, always trying to get a bit more
out of me, and out of you. And my stockbroker. I called him last night, around ten, and he would not take the
call. I know my account is small, less than five million dollars, but he could at least take my calls, after all the
years I've been loyal to the guy."
Next day, they went out to dinner. J.P. bought them a bottle of wine for $20. "Jack, even this meal is expensive.
Look, my bill for this food, if you call it that, is going to be at least twenty-five bucks, yours probably the same.
But what really irks me today, and I mentioned it to you last night, are these dock workers. What do you pay
Manuel, by the way?"
"Around four dollars an hour."
"Ahh, you are the one! I've been loyal to Manuel. I promised him several months of guaranteed business, and
you know what he did? He said that you asked him to wash your boat, and he's leaving mine undone until tomor
row. But the bigger problem is that you are paying him too much! Everyone else here pays around two seventy
five an hour, but then you comr .1-;:. tr.' -r t- the marina, and you accept whatever he asks, taking him
away from me, and raising the g. .. I I I .. for all of us. We had a pretty solid agreement to stop that,
over in Puerto La Cruz, I think it was, but every once in a while some innocent neophyte, like you, comes in, pays
more, and causes problems for the rest of us. Damn it, Jack! Look what you've done!"


Every once in a while

some innocent neophyte,

like you, comes in...



At this point, Jack was not counting on a long-term friendship with J.P., but he only commented "Well, J.P., I've
gotten to know Manuel pretty well. His work is fine, and cruisers like him. Of his sixty years, he has worked here
almost thirty. But he lives day to day, without benefits, except some minor government programs, and there were
a couple of times I had to advance him a few pesos just so he could get over here to work. At the rate that you
say is the going rate, he takes home $23 per day, for him and his wife. Most weeks he works six days, some seven,
but occasionally no work is available from the cruisers. So, I give him a little more.
"Cut it out, will you Jack?" said J.P. "These people are just out to get us for all we've got, as though our vaults
were filled with gold. You just want to be sure he works for you instead of me, right? I've got to get things done
here too, you know. Hey, want another bottle of wine?"
The next morning, about five o'clock, Manuel came by, knocked on Jack's boat, and said he had to get some-
one else to do Jack's boat, and he was going to try to make special arrangements for J.P. and others he had prom
ised to help, but could not for a day or two. Jack asked what was going on. Manuel said, "My mother died last
night. I've got to go the funeral. It is in my pueblo, a couple of hours from here. Jack, can you advance me some
bus fare?"


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Dear Compass,
Further to the ongoing discussion of the use of
str( 1.. I .i 1 -

type chaps who left the I .... I, .,,,. ,,, i
and one of the first things that I learned was enpais qui
vai uzenzo que trove, which means "in countries where
you go, use what you find there".
In Venezuela, I find countless hundreds of fishing
boats using -....1 D-cell fisherman strobes, visible a
maximum ol I miles, usually set fairly low to the
water and just about the only thing that works when
seen against the backdrop of towns like Juangriego or
Porlamar here in Isl- M tre ritl It -in't -xactly a car
dinal light by any -I. I I I ,..,,, l, ,, but it does
get the old attention ..... i i I II I i ike a second
look -because, after all, it is what works, not what
suits all the maritime lawyers.
I was run over twice and now use whatever works to
keep this old engineless gaffer singlehander fool out of
harm's way. If you see a low intensity strobe -well,
back off. Maybe I am 45 miles i i i I i ...i...
As an oft-becalmed drifting ,l i ..'..'. I I
much fits the description of a drifting longliner
i i I, I.,,,, 1i,,, runs vertical, and might contain
,,i i ,,, ih I -I I of flying two vertical red lights,
signifying a vessel not under commar 1 ....1 1 ....
der who reduces sail to catch a bit of h n II ,, i ,
efits by posing as a drifting fisherman. When I lie ahull
or reduce speed, my normally towed surface, I1,,,,.
line becomes a deep line and Mermaid, :
remains i 1-i,.... .- ....... I ..i. .... I you will
and he. i 1 1 I ... ... ..... I I ... II use m y
fisherman's "marker strobe". Hopefully most marine
lawyers and pinball wizards might see the difference
between a marker strobe and a high-intensity mast
head rescue strobe.
I have spoken with several operators of ocean tugs,
large fishing vessels and even an occasional cruise
ship captain, all of whom agree that second to main
training a good watch (sometimes awkward when sin
glehanding) a low intensity strobe does get their atten
tion and that is exactly what I want to do. My small
strobe and often-encumbered : ......... 1 .1i- seem to
indicate a small fishing vessel .I ,,. I I hauling
gear. Then a small course change on their part of as
little a five degrees will keep their hull clear of any
potential fouling gear and, most importantly, clear of
my hull.
I replaced the single D-cell battery in my fisherman's
strobe when I left Sint Maarten over three v 1 .
and it still is working, as are similar lights o. .... I
the vess-1' 1,rr-iT-,i,- 1- i-r- in Juangriego, and I
have nc I I I I
On ... 1. . II 11 datura, called
Burundanga in Venezuela, Borrachio in Colombia,
and Angel's Trumpet or Zombie Cucumber in the
English-speaking islands, has hit the :.1. 1..1 ', .
scene. Persons under the influence i 11 .... i1
shade family drugs can be asked to release pass
words, empty bank accounts and engage in sexual
acts without their consent or even their full knowl
edge. "The victim cannot say no," says Dr. Camilo
Uribe, head of Bogota's foremost toxicology clinic, "It
is like chemical hypnosis, and from the moment it is
given the victim remembers absolutely nothing of
what happened." This substance can be given by liq
uid, cigarette or inhalant. It is tasteless and odorless.
So, with the way things are with Burundanga just
n I I I i .. ... I i..ting with a stranger
c' .I i i i 1 , ,i i -i i i There are probably
countless people trying to figure out what happened to
them on that long night out that they can't remember
when they were not careful with their drinks and woke
up penniless and lost.
Still nc ;-;i;- still not a lot of sense, but plenty of
success tay afloat and be a sailor" kind.
John Smith
Mermaid of Carriacou


Dear Compass,
I'. .. .... I usually snorkel out to check on the
ar, i ..... i -Ieeing the patterns made by anchor
chains as they scour the surface of the seabed have
clambered back aboard feeling guilty and a bit
depressed knowing that my anchor is going to be
doing the same and not knowing what to do about it.
I am one of the poorer folk afloat and have been an
instigator of campaigns to keep anchoring fees down.
Also I have treasured the right to drop my hook where
ever I like. But those days are gone because we pleas
ure cruisers have already done too much damage in
popular anchorages by our numbers, thank-you Mr.
GPS. Now I welcome Frank Pearce's suggestion in his
letter in the July issue of Compass that we should
support the provision of moorings in popular anchor
ages and maybe make some suggestions about their
type and maintenance.
For example, the moorings in Chaguaramas,
Trinidad, are a nightmare. During the several months
I used one, I tried every which way to stop the rode
winding around the eye and the metal can from bang
ing against the hull. From my favourt- ---.t-~;; h-1-
I could watch the can spin in the i .
boats. Eventually the rode was so short that when
more wake came the yacht yanked its bow straight up.
This action had led to the sand screws being pulled
out on occasion.
It would help me feel that I was II... value for
money if the port authorities had .1 i- describing
their moorings, the installation and the maintenance
of them; perhaps even including a recommended
method of tying up to them for those of us unfamiliar
with that particular type.
Julia Bartlett
Another Old Fart in Paradise

Dear Julia,
We asked Sharon Mclntosh, General Manager of the
Yacht Services Association of Trinidad & Tobago
(YSATT), to comment on the mooring situation in
Chaguaramas. Her response follows.
CC

Dear Compass Readers,
Chaguaramas is an extremely vibrant multi-use
harbour. The yachting community shares the bay
with the fishing industry, energy sector, commercial
maritime industry and local pleasure boat users. At
all times, there are high levels of activity in the bay.
Owing to the large and varied number of marine
craft using 'i,1 ....... Bay, the Yacht Services
Association 1..... i i n d Tobago (YSATT) was
mandated by the Marine Pilots to restrict the
anchoring of yachts to a specific zone and provide
clearly defined access channels to the inner parts of
the bay. Maritime Services Division, the Marine
Pilots and YSATT worked together to establish this
-h-r.- zone.
responded by establishing moorings to
demark two entrance channels -one runs east/west
along the northern shore and the other runs
north/south along the eastern shoreline, that is, along
CrewsInn's ship dock. Within this area, yachts may go
on anchor or rent one of the moorings that have been
placed and are managed by YSATT. There are moor
ings in the bay that have been placed and are man
aged by private persons, however, the YSATT moor
ings are the only moorings approved and recognized
by Maritime Services Division and the Marine Pilots
Association. YSATT cannot account for moorings
placed by other persons and users of these other
moorings must be aware of this.
Once a yacht takes up a YSATT mooring, the proce
dure i .......h ,i, .
Upon: i- i i, lb I, I i .. i r
Users" il .... i, I II..
1) EE, I ..... I tu
imately) concrete block, one inch thick nylon rope and
three-eighths-inch chain attached to an orange float
ing buoy. There is a steel hoop at the top of the buoy
for attachment of the boat's bow rope. All moorings
are clearly marked with "YSATT" and a number.
2) There are only six to eight feet of extra line
(scope) between the mooring block and the buoy. If
users prefer to lift the i.. .... i i, .i,11 .1 the
water to-r--- t 1t .-;; ,,. II, I,, i i i Lsed
at least I I I i i I ., the boat in times of bad
weather. This allows the boat to ride the waves with
SI 1.11... .I ... ....' block. For this reason, when a
1 ,. II ..... 11 ..I I on an YSATT mooring, even for
just a few hours, the buoy must be released by 12 to
15 feet. Chaguaramas Bay can be subject to unpre
dictable weather, particularly between the months of
June to November.
3) Boats that weigh more than 15 tons or have par
ticularly large superstructures are not permitted to
use the moorings.
4) Moorings are available on a first-come-first-served
basis. Boats are welcome to attach to an available
S... 1 ......i , at the YSATT office, located
.H I. hI .. i I, rews Inn, as soon as
possible. The cost I .. .. is TT$30 per day or
TT$750 per month (30 days).
Continued on next page


I have been in the insurance business
40 years, 36 with Lloyds, and my claims
settlement record cannot be beat.
Fax DM Street
Iolaire Enterprises (353) 28 33927
or e-mail: streetiolaire@hotmail.com
www.street-iolaire.com i







Continued from previous page
5) The moorings are checked every four months to
ensure that they are in good condition. If necessary,
maintenance work is carried out at that time. Should
you notice any problem or wear, please report this
immediately to the YSATT office.
We have also posted information about the ---
on our website at .1 ,. and in th i
office. At the YSATT II. .. always ready to lis
ten to and discuss the concerns of the visiting cruis
ers and encourage cruisers to provide us with con


Trinidad but he was a bit shy about taking up my sug
gestion to send them to Compass. I am pleased that he
overcame that shyness and I hope that other readers
enjoy them as much as I did.
Nice one, Steve.
Julia Bartlett
Still Boatless in Paradise

Dear Compass,
After reading the article "Common Sense, Common
Knowledge and Common Decency" in July's Compass,


\, / I


'Look darling, what irresponsible, dangerous behavior! Sailing in restricted
waters...They can run someone down!'


structive feedback in order for us to improve our serve
ice to them.
Kind regards,
Sharon McIntosh, General Manager
Yacht Services Association of Trinidad & Tobago

Dear Compass,
I thought that your other readers might be interest
ed in some background to Stephen "Nara" Bourassa's
article "Prankster Pilots" in July's edition.
Steve is one of the Caribbean's characters. He wan
ders around, often shoeless or in odd flip-flops, main
training his boat with ingenuity. If you don't need
something, Steve will find a use for it or will pass it
along to someone else along with a helping hand in fit
ting it. I would class him as a sailor rather than a
cruiser and he is one of life's gentlemen.
What shone through the whale tale was his immense
experience, compared to most of us, in sailing these
waters and his familiarity and comfort at close quar
ters with the some of the largest wild creatures left on
the planet.
Steve told me this story and many others back in


the pencil touched the pad and I couldn't help myself!
Sincerely,
Bela Almeida
Merlin of Seixal

Dear Compass Readers,
We want to hear from YOU!
Please include your name, boat name or address, and
a way we can contact you if clarification is required.
We do not publish individual consumer complaints or
individual regatta results complaints. (Kudos are okay!)
We do not publish anonymous letters; however, your
name may be withheld in print at your request.
Letters may be editedfor length, clarity andfair play.
Send your letters to:
sallytcaribbeancompass.com
orfax (784) 4573410
or
Compass Publishing Ltd.
Readers' Forum
Box 175BQ
Bequia
St. Vincent & the Grenadines


Retired Cruiser Shares the Dream

Millie and Earl O'Laughlin, of Rochester, New York, set sail in 1982 to cruise full time aboard their Youngsun
35, Sequin. The lived aboard for the next 22 years, spending much of that time in the Eastern Caribbean. Millie
lost Earl to cancer in 2003. The year before, Earl had made his last trip: a return to Grenada to prepare Sequin
for sale. It was sold to a British couple with a similar dream of using early retirement to sail the world.

Millie's heart is still at sea.
According to an article by Mike
McLaughlin in the July 19th edi
tion of the Laurel Leader news
paper of Laurel, Maryland,
Millie now gives a weekly pres
entation, "Sailing Aboard
Sequin", for residents of
Morningside House Assisted
Living Center. Every Wednesday,
the octogenarian recalls one of
the many places she and Earl
visited by using detailed recol
elections, plus charts, photos and
other visual aids.
McLaughlin wrote: "Millie
knows the map of the world like
the back of her hand. And like
any good sailor, she knows the
work involved in making the time
between places enjoyable, despite
the distances traveled. She
makes the world smaller for her
SE listeners, and allows them to
experience the joy of the journey.
poRT What really makes 'Sailing
Aboard Sequin' work, however, is
Millie's love of the places she's
been and the people she has met.
And of course, her .. -
Friends can cor..' I il. It
mnolaughlin@verizon.net.


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1988 30'JearwneauSunligh 30 USS 40.000
1989 35'Halbarg- Rassy USS 124.000
1986 36' Laano Tosca US$ 53,000
1989 36' Reinke Super 10 Seel Sop US$ 45.000
1977 37' Gin Fzz EUS 42.500
1968 39' Chey Lee Of Shore 40 USS 95.000
1978 40'Aanic 40 USS 70.000
1985 40' Otshoare40 U CEDIIf) USS 149,000
1987 42'TaChaoMermaid 42 USS 80,000
1999 43'WauquiezPlotSaloon EUS 247,500
1999 44' Flnnull USS 240.000
1992 45' Forna USS 150.000
1991 50' Cdestial Pilomouse USS 268.000
1987 51'Beneteauldytle15.5 USS 160,000
1995 53'SuperMaramu (REDUCEDII) USS 329.000
1982 53' Hatteas Luury Cruiser USS 254,000
1994 55' Oyster 55 USS 776,000
1973 56' V Motor Yacht USS 150.000

1993 36.5" Dean Catamaran (ROEDUCEII USS 99,500
2002 37' Founlaine Pjol US$ 325,000
1998 47' Gancel Catamaran USS 168.000
1980 54' Norman Cross Trimaran USS 295.000
1995 55' Custom Buit Tmaran USS 350.000
1991 55' Laoon Canmaran USS 559.000
1990 72' Alumarine (Loumoe") Catamaran USS 1.19.000









ICLASSIFIEDS


DUFOUR 34, 2006 perfect condi-
tion,well equipped, ready for
regatta management and
charter possibilities, good
revenue guaranteed lying
Guadeloupe, 150K$
www.seaandsail.fr E-mail
seasail@wanadoo.fr Tel (590)


Africa design by Oswald
Beckmeyer, built by Z-Craft in
Durban, SA. Yanmar 2GM20,
Zetus manudc windass, many
extras for cruising. Berthed at
Grenada Yacht Club. Contact
Selwyn Tel (473) 4354174
30 ACHILLES SLOOP fiberglass,
built in England 1974.
Attractive wood interior, new
cushion covers, auxiliary pow-
ered by 4 stroke 6hp OB, fast,
excellent liveaboard. Located
St. John, USVI US$10000 Tel
(340) 277-8884

[ I


Simpson Cat 40 175K,
1-iAA (P- 7-AA0oxnn


BRISTOL 35 1974 Alden
designed classic. As of 05 new
sails, new Imron paint, new
thruhulls, bottom job, new
head, Harken roller furling,
new bilge pumps & electron-
ics, shoal draft, in Caribbean
and ready to cruise $35K E-
mail ybutt2002@yahoo.com

ENDEAVOUR 38 in Trinidad
excellent condition, cruise in
comfort at a fraction of the
price. Northern Ughts gener-
ator, wind, solar, chart plot-
ter, Autohelm 6000, Sto-
boom main furling, cockpit
enclosure and much more.
Engines recently overhauled,
new paint. E-mail
donkirkwood@yahoo.com
or www.yachtworld.com
I[/1.


Garcia in 1984. Family bad with
space, grace & pace. Now
needing restoration she is seri-
ously for sdeas is, where is, Mng
Carracou, US$30,000 for
CANOUAN STAR Catamaran details & pictures Tel (473)
12m x 66m x 600kg. 2 x 27cv 404-4305/4436434 E-mail
n Mc Espnon de designsteeleyeyahoo.com
built by La Gdffe Marine. disle hc
Revdutionary boat in good con-
dtion and reasoncb/ pdced a
US6neg. For more ino call MASTS TURBULENCE GRENADA
liver or Dall Tel (784) 458-8888 has 3 masts suitable for

PEARSON 30 BUILT 1973. new r, .ie. ' .
Yanmar 2GM20, new Awlip, 2 Email turbsail@spiceisle.com
jibs, 2 mains, spinnaker, TV CD. GAS STOVE 4 burner, large
wheel steering, lots more. Good oven, good condition
condition US$30,000 Size 30 x3S x26 EC$1400 Tel
E-mail nicdal 11@bequia.net (784) 457-3646

CMS YACHT BROKER Hallberg
Rassy 15 US$35(K, Hallberg 4
POA, Bavarian 44 135 uro, FRIENDSHIP BAY, BEQUIA
Grand Soleil 52 US4285K, San Lovely 1250sqft cottage, 100
Juan 34 50K, Van der Stadt40 yards from beach. 2 master
139K, Pearson 36 45, Custom bedrooms, 1 guest bedroom,
Ketch 40 100K. Power Cat 72' full kitchen, laundry, level with
POA, Roger Simpson 42 86K, road -no stairs! 12,558 sq ft of
Craddock 40 110K, Roger land, fenced with mature


fruit trees. US$320,000, Term
rental available. E-mail
jocelyne.gautier@wanadoo.fr

CARRIACOU, ONE ACRE LOTS
and multi acre tracts. Great
views overlooking Southern
Grenadines and Tyrrel Bay
www.caribtrace.com

PROPERTY FOR SALE at Bells
Point, Lower Bay, Bequia. House
and Land. Serious buyers on
Sale by owner. Call (784)
4564963 after 6pm.


PUERTO LA CRUZ, VENZ. INSUR-
ANCE SURVEYS, electrical prob-
lems and yacl-t -I1l; -- T-4
Cris Robinson Ji 1J I
E-mail crobinson@telcel.net.ve

PET MOTEL & SPA True Blue,
Grenada. Boarding for almost
any type of pet from dogs &
cats to birds and hamsters.
Grooming for dogs & puppies -
bathing, dematting trimming,
cleaning eyes & ears, cutting
nails, etc. For details call Andrea
Tel (473)420-1874

NIMROD'S RUM SHOP, GRENADA
Eggs, bread, cheese, ice on
sale. Taxi service available,
propane tank fill-up,
personal laundry service.
Happy Hour every day from 5-
6pm Moonlight party every
full moon. VHF 16

COMPASS POINT MARINA, ST.
THOMAS has deep and shal-
low slips available for long
term, short term and tran-
sient rental. We also have
large lockers, Artists Studios
and Office Space available
at reasonable rates.
Tel (340) 775-6144 E-mail
kevin@compasspointmarina com

WATERMAKERS Complete sys-
tems, membranes, spares and
service available at Curacao
and Puerto La Cruz, Venezuela.
Check our prices at
wwwwatercraftwaermker.ccm
In PLC Tel (58) 416-3824187


COMMERCIAL
Caribbean bai
pany looking fc


DIVERS


AFFORDABLE BLUEWATER
CRUISING SAILBOAT 28-40 fair
to good condition. Project
boat considered. E-mail
franciscosavage@yahoo.com

CRUISING OPPORTUNITY
WANTED I am 58, male,
retired, fit and looking for a
cruising opportunity for 1 to
3 months in the Nov/Jan
timeframe. Have experi-
ence, am dependable and
easy to get on with. Willing
to share sailing, cooking,
chores and expenses.
Contact Bob E-mail
rmulcahy@volny.cz
'7APTAIrl NEEDED '- --'

John, USVI for August, 2007-08
season Mooring provided for
liveaboard Must have Masters
License, STCW, Crowd Control,
and Crowd Management
Great pay, plus bonuses for
experienced captain Tel
9340) 998-5564 E-mail
sheree@calypsovi com
MARINE TECHNICIAN WANTED
IMMEDIATELY Respected


HOME RENTAL BEQUIA Private
hilltop home available for rea-
sonable rates this winter from
mid-Nov to before Easter to
casual, flexible and friendly
people. A romantic spirit a plus
o enquiries wanted from
realtors and agents.
Tel (784) 458-3072 Email
tiare@vincysurf.com



EC$1/US 404 per word -
include name, address and
numbers in count. Line
drawings/photos accompa-
nying classified are
EC$20/US$8. Check or
International money order in
EC$ or US$ payable to
Compass Publishing must
accompany order.
Deadline is the 15th of each


month, preceding the
month of issue. Copy
received after deadline will
be held for next issue. Send
copy, photo and payment
to: Compass Publishing, PO
Box 175, Bequia, St. Vincent
and the Grenadines.
Fax: (784) 457-3410 or
tom@caribbeancompass.com


S o


I3 AD ETSR IN E


A&C Yacht Brokers
Admiral Yacht Insurance
Alkane Trinidad
Art Fabrnk
B & C Fuel Dock
Bahia Redonda Marina
Barefoot Yacht Charters
Bichik Services
Bogles Round House
Bougainvilla
Budget Marine
BVI Yacht Sales
Canvas Shop
Caralbe Greement
Caralbe Yachts
Carenantilles
Carene Shop
Caribbean Propellers Ltd
Caribbean Star Airlines
Caribbean Yachting
CIRExpress


Martinique
UK
Trinidad
Grenada
Pebte Marbnique
Venezuela
St Vincent
Martinique
Carriacou
Union Isand
Sint Maarten
Tortola
Grenada
Martinique
Guadeloupe
Martinique
Martinique
Trinidad
Anbgua
St Lucia
St Maarten


Cooper Marine USA 29
Corea's Food Store Mustique Mustique 39
Curagao Marine Curagao 35
Dockwise Yacht Transport Sari Martinique 22
Dominica Marine Center Dominica 21
Dopco Travel Grenada 37
Down Island Real Estate Carriacou 41
Doyle Offshore Sails Tortola 16
Doyle Offshore Sails Barbados 1
Doyle's Guides USA 41
Echo Marine Jotun Special Trinidad 5
Errol Flynn Marina Jamaica 27
First Mate Trinidad 18
Flamboyant Beachside Terrace Grenada 41
Flamboyant Owl Bar Grenada 41
Flying Fish Ventures Grenada 31
Food Fair Grenada 41
Grenada Marine Grenada 15
Grenadines Sails Bequla 4
Horizon Yacht Management Tortola 23
lolaire Enterprises UK 6/42


Island Dreams
Island Water World
Johnson Hardware
Jones Maritime
JYA
KP Marine
Lagoon Marina Hotel
Latitudes & Attitudes
Mac's Pizza
Maritime Yacht Sales
Mclntyre Bros Ltd
Mid Atlantic Yacht Services
Navimca
Northern Lights Generators
Peake Yacht Brokerage
Perkins Engines
Petit St Vincent
Ponton du Bakoua
Porthole Restaurant
Renaissance Marina
Santa Barbara Resorts


Grenada
Sint Maarten
St Lucia
St Crolx
Grenada
St Vincent
St Vincent
USA
Bequia
St Thomas
Grenada
Azores
Venezuela
Tortola
Trinidad
Tortola
PSV
Martinique
Bequia
Aruba
Curagao


Sea and Sail
Silver Diving
Simpson Bay Marina
Soper's Hole Marina
Spice Island Marine
St Thomas Yacht Sales
Superwind
SVG Air
Thomas Peake & Sons
Tikal Arts & Crafts
Trade Winds Cruising
True Blue Bay
Turbulence Sails
Tyrrel Bay Yacht Haulout
Vemasca
Virgin Gorda Yacht Harbour
Volles Assistance
Wallllabou Anchorage
Xanadu Marine
YSATT


Guadeloupe
Carriacou
St Maarten
Tortola
Grenada
St Thomas
Germany
St Vincent
Trinidad
Grenada
Bequia
Grenada
Grenada
Carriacou
Venezuela
Virgin Gorda
Martinique
St Vincent
Venezuela
Trinidad


i-


I. : I _-









Letter of


the Month


Dear Compass,

The July issue's Whats On My Mind contribution, titled "Common Sense,
Common Knowledge and Common Decency", claims some common truths that are
mostly nonsense i- '1 .i1. i I t lots of readers fell for some of them.
The "Common Sen- - I, is that "sailing a *';: heavy boat in a restricted
area is dangerous". Two examples are given. One :- a 32-foot boat sailing into
Tyrrel Bay while the writer watched from a : .1.... I .. But moments before, a
young girl had slid off the bar to swim back as . I1. of course, one sees the
mortal danger which is of twice the .1. 1 .... it's a "young girl". Apparently
the young girl would not be endangered' I I .. Ieavy boat in a restricted area"
coming or going under power. Apparently she was not endangered by all the yacht
dinghies blasting back and forth at several times the speed of a sailboat, doing a
hundred times the mileage in the anchorage of the occasional y 1i ..1.... in, back
and forth all day and late into thi- n ht i;-l ;;-li t- .;;-1 fr- I, ..."... bar from
whichtheyou-:. i 11, .1 1 1i- .. .... i1. i. .. i, ,,.. .. the author
him self says - . jJ .. g I i .. 11,.. 11 .. -. I- . of a bored
yachtie looking for a cause.
Nonetheless, bored yachties (and others looking for cause) endanger my lifestyle.
There will eventually come a time when, for instance, sailing into an anchorage is
banned. And by then, someone will have noticed that yachts motoring in without a
bow thruster also endanger young girls in the water. Unlimited blasting back and
forth through the anchorage in dinghies will remain unnoticed we need our sporty
utility vessels. They are the car we once had in the lifestyle that we are trying to bring
with us. Or the lifestyle from which we are commuting, as the case may be.
And so, this is all as it should be! The article asserts, "many of us know we can
competently sail onto and off an anchor, or at least hope we can in an emergency."
No! If you are not practiced at sailing in harbors, don't do it when you have an emer
agency! If you are preoccupied with an emergency and learning to sail in restricted
waters, you are endangering the young girl in the water -and the other yachts! It
probably won't endanger her as much as all the dinghy trips for e-mails, faxes,
Customs, and such to repair whatever the emergency was, but it will endanger her
more than if you knew what you were doing. Likewise, if you can't steer your boat
without a bow thruster, don't come in when it is broken. That's just common sense.
The other example is of a yacht sailing out of Rodney Bay under mainsail. The
author says it would have been okay under headsail. That shows how open-minded


the writer is -if you do it his way. Raising the main in harbor conditions, however,
.. - ... I I I II I fort, noise, and safety) over r .... ..
i ,i, 1 ,1 I " .... 1 1 could the skipper stop the i .
could :i-- :.- 1 .1. -.: -- iiig that (is anybody interested?), mostly things
you'd .,.. i ...i I I -1 i i ... but also, stopping. The writer proposes a ludi
crous maneuver and says you'd "have more chance with a stern anchor or sky hook!"
He's right! Stern (or bow) anchors are real good tools! Though probably not for the
stated situation. I'd stick with the sky hooks, the sails. All sorts of marvelous things
can be done under sail, even steering around swimmers! I'm not saying that every
one knows how to do it, or that every boat is capable....
The "Common Knowledge" section of the article tells us "it's common knowledge for
cruising folk, and should be for all [all?] that the text-book 'three times' scope is a
bare minimum...." I'd burn that text book. But that may explain some of the yachts
that drag down on us.
Finally, the article gives us a fill on "Common Decency", regarding peeing over the
rail -and worse. Peeing over the rail has already been discussed in the Compass,
but since its here again.... He uses the example of a yacht at 20 meters and implies
the guy is deliberately peeing toward him. That's pretty close to be anchored, so
there may be some cause and effect here. But that's far enough that anything he
actually sees is mostly in his mind's eye. Skinny dipping and such are okay, he says,
it's the "not so attractive parts" he doesn't like which in today's world, is a mat-
ter of taste, so to speak. But here's my system: I pee over the rail unless I have close
neighbors, or am within, say, 200 meters of shore. Then I use a jar. But if someone
anchors close enough that I can fling it onto their boat, I just might. Same thing for
dinghies blasting by as close as they can. My range is five to ten meters, depending
on the wind.
But let me end with this: sailing yacht, motoring yacht, planing dinghy, sailing
dinghy, or rowing boat, we are all required to keep a lookout. And the young girl in
the water almost always has the right of way. And she should keep a lookout, too.

Jim Hutchinson
Ambia


ST. THOMAS YACHT SALES
Compass Point Marina, 6300 Est. Frydenhoj, Suite 28,
St. Thomas, U.S.V.I. 00802

Tel: (340) 779-1660
Fax: (340) 779-2779
yachts@lslands.vi

38' 1992 Marine Trader Sedan, i -:;". 1 :, ,- i
210HP Cummins A/C : :.... .
$136,900 new chainplates
$139,000
Sail
33' 1973 Pearson 10M Sloop, refit, new eng. paint, $ 33,500
37' 1973 Irwin Sloop, Perkins 4-108, AC, AP, Genset $ 34,000
40' 1984 Endeavour sloop, Well maintained, ready to cruise, $ 95,000
55' 1956 Custom Yawl, Excellent charter business, CG cert for 18 $250,000

Power
26' 1991 Grady White, Sailfish, fully equipped $ 42,000
30' 1997 Salt Shaker SF, new 250HP Yamahas, cuddy cabin $ 79,000
36' 2002 Custom Catamaran, aluminum fishing cat,w/Tuna Tower $125,000
50' 1996 Carver CMY, Cat engs. Low hrs, new electronics $249,000

Call, fax or visit our website for a complete list of boats for sale
www.stthomasyachts.com








B.V.1. YACHT SALES
Located at Nanny Cay Marina
SAIL 40' Catalina 400, 2cab/2hd, Great Condition '95 $109K
64' Haj Kutter Schooner, Square Rig, 3 cab/1 hd'30 $475K 40' Jeanneau Sun Ody. 3cab/2hd, Well Priced '00 $112K
60' Palomba Pilothouse CC Ketch 5 cab/2 hd '70 $119K 40' Jeanneau Sun Ody. 3 cab/2 hd '99 $109K
58' Boothbay Challenger CC Ketch, 3 cab/2 hd '73 $249K 39' Tollycraft Fast Passage Cutter, 2 cab/l hd '83 $125K
54' Gulfstar 54, 3 cab/2 hd Luxurious & Spacious '86 $349K 38' Morgan 38 CC, Sloop, 2 cabll hd '98 $ 99K
53' German Frers, Ketch 3 cab/2 hd '01 $275K 37' Tartan 3700, 2 cab/1 hd, Upgrades '03 $219K
52' Jeanneau Sun Ody 3 cabl3 hd, Loaded! '03 $399K 37' Jeanneau Sun Ody. 2cabl1hd, Motivated '00 $109K
51' Formosa Cust. Ketch CC, 3 cab/3 hd '80 $199K 36' Beneteau, Sloop, 2 call hd '00 $69K
50' Beneteau 50, Cutter, 4 cabll crew/5 hd '02 $329K 36' S2 11.A, 1 cab/1 Qtr berth/1 hd '85 $ 49K
49' Ta Chiao CT49, Cutter CC, 2 cab/2 hd '85 $159K 36' Tiburon, Cutter/Ketch Icabflhd Solid Cruiser'76 $ 47K
47 Vagabond, Ketch CC 2 cab/2 hd '87 $249K 36' Beneteau M362 2 Cabflhd, Lowest on Market'00 $75K
46' Morgan 461 CC 3 ca/b2 hd '82 $ 87K 35' O'Day, 2 call hd, Great Condition '87 $42K
46' Kelly Peterson KP46 CC Cutter 2 cabl2 hd '88 $249K 33' Beneteau 331, Sloop, 2 cab/1 hd '01 $59K
46'Formosa Peterson Cutter, 2 cab/2 hd '79 $119K 32' NorthshoreVancouver 32, SbopCutter,1cabl hd'87 $125K
46' Hunter 460, 3 cab/2 hd 2 avail.from '00 $139K
45'Jeanneau Sun Ody. 3 cab/3 hd '99 $149K MULTIHULLS
45'Jeanneau Sun Ody, 2-3 cab/2 hd '01 $158K 82' Dufour Nautitech 8cab/8hd, Major refit '95 $895K
45' Bombay Explorer, 2 cab/2 hd World Cruiser '78 $ 59K 46' Fountaine Pajot Bahia 4 cab/4 hd, 2avafrom '01 $370K
45' Hunter Marine Passage CC, 2 cabl2 hd '98 $149K 42' Privilege 42, 4 cab/4 hd '00 $276K
44' Beneteau 44CC, 2 cab2 hd In Great Shape '94 $189K 40'Fountaine Pajot Lavezi, Owner'sVersion '03 $295K
44' CSY 44CC, Cutter 2 cabl2 hd, Redued-Motatled 77 $85K 38' Lagoon 4 cab/4 hd, Meticulous owners '01 $239K
44' CSY Walkover CC, 2 cab/2 hd Great Condition '79 $165K 27' Heavenly Twins, 2 cabl2 hd '92 $59K
43' Jeanneau Sun Od. 3-4 cabl2 hd 2 avail. from '01 $175K
42' Dufour Gibsea, 3 cabl2 hd, Well Maintained '01 $125K POWER
42' Hunter Deck Salon, 2 cabl2 hd, New Listing '03 $199K 56' Horizon Motor yacht, Immaculate Condition!'01 $690K
41 Morgan 416 Ketch CC 2 cabl2 hd '83 $78K 42' Hi-Star Trawler, 2 cab2 hd '88 $199K
41' Tayana V42 Sloop CC 2 cab/2 hd '85 $130K 42' Nova Marine Trawler, Sundeck trawler '98 $249K
40' Dufour Sloop 3 cab/1 d '05 $249K 42' Hershine 42, Motor yacht 4 cab/4 head '89 $99K
40' Island PacketCutter 2 cab/2 hd, Well Maintaned'98 $219K 36' Heritage East 36 2 cab/2 hd, 2 avail from '01 $187K
40' Beneteau M405 3 cab2 hd, Loaded '95 $119K 35' Maxum SCR 3500, 2 cab/l head '01 $129K
40 Bayfield, 2 cab1 hd, Ketch, Motivated Sellers '84 $99K 27' Eastern 27 Down East, 1 cab '06 $99K
P.O Box 638, Road Town, Tortola, British Virgin Islands
Tel: 284-494-3260 Fax: 284-494-3535 e-mail: bviyachtsales@surbvi.com
website: www.bviyachtsales.com / Call for a complete list of over 70 boats







PICK UP!

Ahoy, Compass Readers! When in St. Maarten/St. Martin, pick up your free
monthly copy of the Caribbean Compass at any of these locations (advertisers in
this issue appear in bold):


Budget Marine
Cafe Atlantico
Capt'n Oliver's
CIRExpress
Electec
FKG Rigging
Food Center
Immigration Simpson Bay
Island Water World
Marina Fort Louis
Sell Simpson Bay
Simpson Bay Marina
Simpson Bay Yacht Club
St. Maarten Sails
The Mail Box
The Yacht Club












SEPTEMBER

3 Labor Day. Public holiday in Puerto Rico and USVI
6 Bonaire Flag Day. Public holiday in Bonaire; boat races
8 Virgin of the Valley Festival, Venezuela. Religious boat parades
15 International Coastal Cleanup Day. Coastal Cleanups in many islands,
plus Underwater Cleanup, Bonaire (www.dive-friends-bonaire.com)
17 National Heroes day, Public holiday in St. Kitts & Nevis
19 Independence Day. Public holiday in St. Ktts & Nevis
24 Republic Day. Public holiday in Trinidad & Tobago
26 FULL MOON
TBA 24th Annual International Blue Marlin Tournament, Havana, Cuba. CNIH


OCTOBER

3 Thanksgiving Day. Public holiday in St. Lucia
6 7 Pete Sheals Match Racing, BVI. Royal British Virgin Islands Yacht
Club (RBVIYC), tel (284) 494-3286, fax (284) 494-6117, www.rbviyc.net
7 13 40th Bonaire International Sailing Regatta. www.infobonaire.com
8 Columbus Day. Public holiday in Puerto Rico and USVI
10 War of 1868 Anniversary. Public holiday in Cuba
13 Willy T Virgins Cup Race, BVI. RBVIYC
13 5th YSAT Marine Trades Show, Chaguaramas, Trinidad. See ad on page 9.
14 Chinese Arrival Dragon Boat Festival Kayak Centre,
Chaguaramas, Trinidad. maggi1902@wow.net
15 USVI Hurricane Thanksgiving Day (Public holiday in USVI
if no hurricanes occurred)
20 22 Trafalgar Race, BVI. RBVIYC
21 Antillean Day. Public holiday in Netherlands Antilles
21 St. Ursula's Day. Public holiday in BVI
21 Blue Food Festival (local cuisine), Bloody Bay, Tobago.
25 Thanksgiving Day. Public holiday in Grenada; boat races
26 FULL MOON
26 28 11th Foxy's Cat Fight multihull regatta, Jost Van Dyke.
West End Yacht Club (WEYC), Tortola,
tel (284) 495 1002, fax (284) 495-4184, mvh@surfbvi.com, www.weyc.net
27 Independence Day. Public holiday in St. Vincent & the Grenadines
30 Independence Day. Public holiday in Antigua
TBA Ladies' Laser Open, Antigua. Antigua Yacht Club (AYC),
tel/fax (268) 460-1799, yachtclub@candw.ag,
www.antiguayachtclub.com
TBA Laser Team Racing Championship, Antigua. AYC



All information was correct to the best of our knowledge
at the time this issue of Compass went to press but plans change,
so please contact event organizers directly for confirmation,
If you would like a nautical or tourism event listed FREE in our calendar,
please send the name and date(s) of the event
and the name and contact information of the organizing body to
*sally@caribbeancompass.com


Chaguaramas from a


Local Point of View

by Arlene Walrond

A lot has been written about Chaguaramas in the past year or so, i. ,, .
tive, :, .1 .i ,i ..I,,, crime in the area. But no one seems to i 11,
real i -. ,. ., 11 i... Chaguaramas from a local standpoint.
I decided to write this .n , an article in a magazine that caters to the
yachting community. Th i .- notion that *i, .." .'."..- wild and
uninhabited place when the Americans arrived in 1941. I .. - I .. i. ...' the truth.
Chaguaramas has a rich history that not many people seem to be aware of.
Originally inhabited by Amerindians who named it for the majestic Chaguaramas
palms that grew there profusely, many other families later moved in -these were
mainly of African descent with a few whites and some French Creoles.
Many villages existed there: Petit Bourg, Nicholas, Haskott, 1i, .... ....- Tetron
(where Trinidad's army barracks are situated) and Larry, t( ....... I When
Trinidad was under British rule, land w,.- 1 ,, 1., under Royal grant directly from
the Crown. Ranging in size from one to -- parcels of land were bought by
independent families paving one shilling (24 cents) tax per acre per year.


Today, Chaguaramas seems to mean forest of masts', but the area was named for
the handsome palms that were once its most prominent feature

As the United States
became involved in the
Second World War, the
US government gave
Great Britain 50 ships
in exchange for the right
to establish military
bases in strategic
British colonies: the
Bahamas (Great
Exuma), Jamaica,
Antigua, St. Lucia,
British Guiana and
Trinidad. When the
United States leased the
I. peninsu
; i ... a, 1 British
Government, signing a
99 year lease in 1940,
Chaguaramas was a thriving place with many plantations and holiday homes, and
Staubles .- d, .1 for people from other parts of the country who wished
to go "dov I is, visit the islets off Trinidad's west coast.
According to my sources, te majority, if not all of the homes and other buildings
were demolished by the Americans to make way for their specialized military struck
tures. My two uncles worked on the "American Base" during the construction peri
od. (I wish they were still alive to tell me what it was like. It's so true what they say:
"You never miss the water till the well runs dry".)
Contrary to media reports over the years, not all former residents received com-
pensation for their lands. I was told this by eI .,-- ., i I ....i.. dentt of
.i .. .. ....... .. five years old at the .... I .- I .... I.- I ... I He has
i ,I wo I to ,, f a group of people (children and grandchildren of landhold
ers) who have been agitating to get restitution for their properties, and travelled to
England to stage a demonstration in front of the Trinidad & Tobago High
Commission in July 2006. According to him, their claim is valid since the leases and
deeds were not signed on takeover. Some of these leases go as far back as 1886.
Mr. Noel says he has documents to support this claim. He also has in his possession
documents that prove the disparity with which payment was made to the different racial
groups. White residents were given $1,000 per acre while the Africans and others were
given as little as $30 per acre. He also claims that some residents got no compensation
whatsoever. He believes it was the .. I 1 1 ... I rpetrated in this country.
When in 1960 our then Chief ..'-I I .'" .....- led a march of protest
against the American occupation, the former residents of Chaguaramas (the major
ity of whom were relocated to Carenage; some went to St. James and Diego Martin)
had hopes of regaining their lands. But instead, when the peninsula was finally
returned to Trinidad & Tobago's control in 1977, he vested it to the Chaguaramas
Development Authority, rather than restoring the properties there to those who had

cheated from being owners of acres of prime agricultural land they were reduced
to being 99-year leaseholders of one lot of land barely big enough to fit a house.
Apparently it's not easy for these people to sit back and look at the development
taking place in Chaguaramas today while some of the descendants of the original
landowners are struggling to make ends meet and others are turning to drugs and
crime. This, then is the bone of contention among former residents -they want their
land back or to be compensated fairly.










Latest Edition of Hurricane Survival Book
The newly updated edition of The Cruiser's Guide To
Hurricane Survival is a practical manual to help you
prepare your yacht to weather gale-force to hurri-
cane level storms.
This book covers it all how to prepare your boat for
a storm at the dock, at anchor or hauled out, and the
risks of going to sea. Weather websites are listed,
along with how to read your barometer and what the
numbers mean in terms of wind velocity and duration
of the storm. Do you know how to estimate the direc-
tion the wind will be blowing? You will when you read
this book. There are even recommendations for deal-
ing with insurance issues in the aftermath of a storm.
Brad Glidden has lived on his 60-year-old Rhodes sloop
in the Caribbean since 1975. He has weathered at
least eight hurricanes. With a 100-ton USCG captain's
license and 25,000 miles at sea in a sailboat, his experi-
ence is the basis for sound, detailed advice to prepare
your vessel for a storm while minimizing personal risk.
For more information visit www cruisingguides.com.

Marine Travelift's Better Boat Mover
Marine Travelift Inc has unveiled the latest develop-
ment in its Mariner forklift series. The Mariner M2500 is


capable of lifting an impressive 25,000 pounds, thanks
to the Cummins QSB4.5 Tier III engine, which has 130-
horsepower output; while the four Michelin Stabil'X
XZM wide-track tyres keeps the Mariner M2500 firmly
on the ground. The four-speed power shift transmission
offers a top speed of 10.8 mph; and the side-mount-


ed cab, with stepped entrance and ext, gives per-
fect visibility for the operator.
For more information visit www.marinetravelift com.

Database-Driven Nautical Website
Sail-the-net.com is a site for "all things nautical"
according to its creators. It is predominantly about
yacht chartering worldwide, with a look at different
types of yacht charter, reports on yacht charter desti-
nations plus an extensive global marine directory with
2,800 yacht charter companies and a guide to har-
bours, moorings and anchorages. A basic listing in the
directory is free, with enhanced and premium paid
listings also available. The site has additional sections
that will be of interest to boaters including Sailing
Courses and Schools, Boat Jumble, Crew Swap and
Gear Guide. All are database-driven, allowing users to
post and share information.
Check out www.sail-the-net com.

New CD from Ed Teja
Former long-time Caribbean cruiser, Compass contrib-
utor and musician Ed Teja's new solo CD, "Soft
Dreaming Blues", is coming out this month from
Morrhythm (a label of Outstanding Records) in


California. It contains 11 songs and two instrumentals,
all loosely categorized as smooth jazz. You can hear
the title track on Ed's
myspace page (see
below). All the tunes
are originals (some
written with cowriters)
and the CD will initially
be available only via
the record company's
website www.out-
standingmusic.com.
However, diehard fans
can get an auto-
graphed copy for just
USS12 including ship-
ping by ordering direct
from Ed. "It's quite a
different musical direc-
tion for me, and one I
think you will enjoy,
.i- too," says Teja..
For more information
e-mail EdTeja@gilanet com or visit
www.myspace.com/edtejoa.


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Full Text

PAGE 1

MERRIMAN/BARTHOLOMEW TheCaribbeansMonthlyLookatSea&ShoreSEPTEMBER 2007 NO. 144Carriacou Regatta Festival 2007See story on page 14 On-line

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SEPTEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 2

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SEPTEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 3 Carib Canoe TripGli Gli in the Leewards.............6Trinidad & TobagoWere glad we came!.............21Whats a CUC?Cubas Unique Cruising.........22Nice Nevis!Tropical trail treks.................24Port AntonioJamaican jaunt base.............26Injury at SeaAnd a silver lining.................34 The Caribbeans Monthly Look at Sea & Shore SEPTEMBER 2007 € NUMBER 144 DEPARTMENTS Business Briefs........................9 Eco-News...............................10 Regatta News........................11 Meridian Passage.................19 Destinations...........................21 All Ashoreƒ...........................24 Sailors Horoscope................30 Island Poets...........................30 Cruising Crossword...............31 Dollys Deep Secrets.............32 Book Reviews...................32, 33 Cooking with Cruisers...........39 Readers Forum.....................42 Classified Ads........................44 Advertisers Index.................44 Calendar................................46Caribbean Compass welcomes submissions of short articles, news items, photos and drawings. See Writers Guidelines at www.caribbeancompass.com. Send submissions to sally@caribbeancompass.com. We support free speech! But the content of advertisements, columns, articles and letters to the editor are the sole responsibility of the advertiser, writer or correspondent, and Compass Publishing Ltd. accepts no responsibility for any statements made therein. Letters and submissions may be edited for length and clarity. Compass Publishing Ltd. accepts no liability for delayed distribution or printing quality as these services are supplied by other companies. ©2007 Compass Publishing Ltd. All rights reserved. No reproduction, copy or transmission of this publication, except short excerpts for review purposes, may be made without written permission of Compass Publishing Ltd. Caribbean Compass is published monthly by Compass Publishing Ltd., P.O. Box 175 BQ, Bequia, St. Vincent and the Grenadines. Tel: (784) 457-3409, Fax: (784) 457-3410, compass@caribsurf.com www.caribbeancompass.comEditor...........................................Sally Erdle sally@caribbeancompass.com Assistant Editor...................Elaine Ollivierre jsprat@caribsurf.com Advertising & Distribution........Tom Hopman tom@caribbeancompass.com Art, Design & Production......Wilfred Dederer wide@caribbeancompass.com Accounting.................................Debra Davis debra@caribbeancompass.comCompass Agents by Island:Antigua: Ad Sales & Distribution Lucy Tulloch Tel (268) 774-6657 lucy@thelucy.com Barbados: Distribution Norman Faria Tel/Fax: (246) 426-0861 nfaria@caribsurf.com Curaçao: Distribution Cees de Jong Tel: (5999) 767-9042, Fax: (5999) 767-9003, stbarba@attglobal.net Dominica: Distribution Hubert J. Winston Dominica Marine Center, 24 Victoria Street, Roseau, Tel: (767) 448-2705, info@dominicamarinecenter.com Grenada/Carriacou/Petite Martinique: Ad Sales & Distribution Bob and Judi Goodchild Tel: (473) 443-5784, goodchilds@141.com Guadeloupe: Ad Sales & Distribution Stéphane LegendreTel/Fax: + 590 (0) 5 90 84 53 10 Mob: + 590 (0) 6 90 49 45 90contact@transcaraibes.com Martinique: Ad Sales & Distribution Isabelle Prado Tel: (0596) 596 68 69 71, Mob: + 596 (0) 696 93 26 38 isabelle.prado@wanadoo.fr St. Lucia: Distribution Wayne Barthelmy Tel: (758) 584-1292, waynebarthelmy@hotmail.com St. Maarten/St. Barths/St. Kitts & Nevis: Distribution Eric Bendahan (599) 553 3850 Ad Sales Stéphane LegendreTel/Fax: + 590 (0) 5 90 84 53 10 Mob: + 590 (0) 6 90 49 45 90contact@transcaraibes.com St. Thomas/USVI: Distribution Bryan Lezama Tel: (340) 774 7931, blezama1@earthlink.net St. Vincent & the Grenadines: Ad Sales Debra Davis, Tel: (784) 457-3527, debra@caribbeancompass.com Tortola/BVI: Distribution Gladys Jones Tel: (284) 494-2830, Fax: (284) 494-1584 Trinidad: Ad Sales & Distribution Giselle Sankar Tel: (868) 634-2055, Fax: (868) 634-2056 giselles@boatersenterprise.com Venezuela: Ad Sales & Distribution Patty Tomasik Tel: (58-281) 265-3844 Tel/Fax: (58-281) 265-2448, xanadumarine@cantv.net www.caribbeancompass.com ISSN 1605 1998 Info& Updates We are fortunate to have such a guaranteed excellent read every month. Richard Roxburgh s/v Mirounga KATCHORCover Photo: MERRIMAN/BARTHOLOMEW Carriacou Regatta Festival 2007 BATEJoin our growing list of on-line subscribers! 12 issues US$29.95, 24 issues US$53.95 Same price, same content — faster delivery!www.caribbeancompass.com New Rules for Yachts in CARICOM Yachts traveling from country to country within much of the English-speaking Eastern Caribbean are looking at more paperwork. Legislation has been passed which requires all air and sea carriers to submit passenger information in advance when arriving at, and departing from, each of ten Caribbean Common Market (CARICOM) member states. Participating CARICOM member states are Jamaica, Antigua & Barbuda , St. Kitts & Nevis, Dominica, Barbados, St. Lucia, St. Vincent & the Grenadines, Grenada, Trinidad & Tobago and Guyana. These countries are collectively known as a Single Domestic SpaceŽ (SDS). Compass is informed that the term sea carriersŽ includes both private and charter yachts. To comply with the new regulation, you fill out a form (available by registering at www.caricomeapis.org) which asks for information such as passengers names, nationalities and passport numbers, and the vessels dates and times of departure and arrival. There are three ways the form can be submitted: € By sending as an e-mail attachment to maritime@impacsjrcc.org € By filling it in on-line € By faxing it to (246) 228-4040. When arriving in the SDS from a port outside of the SDS, the form must be submitted no later than 24 hours before arrival. When departing from the SDS to a port outside of the SDS, the form must be submitted no later than 15 minutes after departure. When traveling between countries within the SDS, the form must be submitted no later than one hour beforedeparture. For more information contact Diane Hazzard at (246) 429-7931 or diane.hazzard@impacsjrcc.org. The Dean Report Hurricane Dean swept through the channel between the islands of St. Lucia and Martinique on August 17th as a Category 2 storm. According to the US National Hurricane Center, at 5:00AMlocal time the center of Hurricane Dean was located near latitude 14.3 north, longitude 60.9 west. Maximum sustained winds were near 87 knots with higher gusts. „Continued on next page Usually unruffled, the sea off Tapion Point on St. Lucias northwest coast was whipped into breakers by hurricane-force winds extending some 25 miles from Hurricane Deans eyeLEE KESSEL

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SEPTEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 4 GRENADINES SAILS & CANVASBEQUIACome in and see us for all your SAILS & CANVAS needs including CUSTOM-MADE stainless steel BIMINI & DODGER frames at competitive pricesLocated opposite G.Y.E. (northern side of Admiralty Bay) Tel (784) 457-3507 / 457-3527 (evenings) e-mail: gsails@vincysurf.com VHF Ch16/68 REPRESENTATIVE YACHT MANAGEMENT SALE AND REPAIR INBOARD & OUTBOARD ENGINES METAL FABRICATION & WELDING STAINLESS STEEL& ALUMINIUM BOAT ENGINEERING, HYDRAULICS AND PLUMBING JYA at SIM Boatyard, Prickly Bay, GrenadaLEAVE YOUR BOAT IN SKILLED HANDSƒ€ Tel/Fax Office: 473-439-4913 € Cell: 473-409-2264 € @: jya@caribsurf.comManager Jean-Yves Rouseré „Continued from previous page From Martinique, Ciarla Decker reports that although some buildings were damaged and trees toppled, and the island suffered considerable losses to banana and sugarcane crops, the yachting sector fared relatively well. Her own Sea Services chandlery in Fort de France was unharmed, and Ciarla says, Annie Zaghes of the Ponton du Bakoua marina in Trois Ilets reports no infrastructure damage. The Ponton is up and running, as are the restaurant and the mooring buoy system. Owners of boats in front of the Ponton had moved them to safe hurricane holes and Mme. Zaghes has not heard of any damage to them.Ž Ciarla also spoke with manager Eric Jean-Joseph of Marin Yacht Harbor on the islands south coast. Eric reports that the marina at Marin suffered absolutely no important damage, and all the boats moored correctly within the marina were unharmed. All the marina docks held and marina buildings resisted the wind. The various services of Marin village were, for the most part, also saved from destruction. However, about 30 boats anchored out in the Bay of Marin were swept away, and four sank. Eric notes that owners who had problems with their boats after the passage of Hurricane Dean are owners who did not adequately prepare their boats. The worst of it is that these owners, by their negligence, have caused damage to other yachts which would otherwise have had no problems.Ž From St. Lucia, Lee Kessell reports that at the popular anchorage of Pigeon Island, the shorelines on both sides of the causeway were battered, with the bay side being eaten away by many feet. The jetty was severely damaged, and some damage was done to virtually all of the National Park structures. The Park will re-open slowly as areas are restored. The new dock at nearby Gros Ilet village lost its wooden planking. However, it was reported that the dock had been designed to lose its planking before the stress of the waves could damage the concrete structure, and restoring the planking is a simple job. Also in St. Lucia, Rodney Bay Marina manager Cuthbert Didier reports that the marina, located inside a lagoon, stood up to the onslaught, successfully sheltering more than 200 yachts.Ž Cuthbert said the marina had put its own emergency plan successfully into effect. We were able to allow each vessel to tie up in a double slip so Rodney Bay Marina was able to berth 115 vessels in slips, and another 95 on dry dock. We kicked in our emergency plan and everything worked „ there was no damage to the facility.Ž Cuthbert complimented all the staff, dock attendants, security and boatyard staff for their work in ensuring that each vessel was properly secured. He said: Rodney Bay Marina markets itself as safe and secure and our staff has lived up to this promise in this storm. We have braved several storms in the past and our track record proves that we are in fact a safe haven for yachts in times of a storm.Ž Cuthbert raised the matter of re-insurers who were reluctant to cover yachts berthed in this part of the Caribbean. He said: We run a marina that is ideally located and while people are quick to say that we are in the hurricane belt, we have proven that we can survive very bad weather. We have also proved that the decision of reinsurers against covering yachts in the south of the Caribbean is misguided.Ž In Castries Harbour, a fishing boat was washed up onto the road and against the market steps, and a small old iron ship was washed onto the rocks along the shore near the Customs shed. Lee Kessell echoes Eric Jean-Josephs sentiments: The owners of derelict vessels should be liable for the damage they cause.Ž She also says, Since the mangroves and reefs of Pointe Seraphine were destroyed and given over to the building of the large shopping complex, complete with its breakwater, the Petit Carenage (Vigie Creek) has suffered grievously. The storm surge sweeps unmolested right through to the wharves and docks and whereas the mangroves absorbed the onslaught, the breakwater now whips the waves right into the Carenage. The Coalpot Restaurant, recently closed for two months for a remake, is now destroyed, and the docks along with it.Ž The inner part of Marigot Bay on the west coast of St. Lucia lived up to its reputation as a hurricane hole. The southern edge of the eye of Hurricane Dean hit Marigot at 4:00AM, with winds gusting to 75 knots from the southwest and five-metre breaking seas sweeping into the outer part of the Bay. In the inner bay, The Marina at Marigot Bay and the mangroves were packed with yachts seeking shelter. Molly McDaniel reports: No serious damage was caused to any yacht in Marigot Bay and any minor damage was only caused by inadequately moored boats in the mangroves. The Marina and Marina Village, Discovery at Marigot Bay, Chateau Mygo, JJs Paradise and the Rainforest Hideaway were completely undamaged. Doolittles at the Marigot Beach Club lost a jetty and suffered some roof damage but opened for business as usual on the following evening. The Shack restaurant, built over the waters of the outer part of the bay, is badly damaged.Ž „Continued on next page

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SEPTEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 5 „Continued from previous page The Marina remains ready should severe weather threaten the island again. Farther south in St. Lucia, at the Soufriere Marine Management Area, manager Kai Wulf reports: We lost three yacht moorings during the passage of Hurricane Dean and the Soufriere Foundation jetty is damaged. The use of the facility has been prohibited until further notice. But the waterfront has already been cleaned up by the fire service and the repair of the jetty will start soon. A comprehensive assessment has been scheduled, when we will dive key areas for potential structural problems and environmental impacts. However, we dont expect extensive stormrelated destruction, since there was no major wave action within our area. Generally there has been little disruption.Ž Lee Kessell adds, From Marigot south, scuba diving was not affected to any degree.Ž Farther still from Deans eye, Hubert Winston of the Dominica Marine Center and the Dominica Marine Association says: Days before the hurricane was due to hit the Leeward Islands, yachts were heading south like crabs heading to their usual hole. For years, it has been the cardinal rule that boats go south for cover „ without much regard to weather patterns. At the Dominica Marine Center in Roseau, the last charter yacht headed south to Martinique after off-loading its passengers just 24 hours before Dean was due. Most local boats waited until the last minute, probably thinking Dean would change course or their boats would be spared by divine intervention. Due to the lack of suitable dry dock facilities, haul-out services, trailers and lift mechanisms, the local port authority was overwhelmed as these boatowners barraged the port berth for the use of its crane, almost all at the same time.Ž Meanwhile, at Portsmouth in the northern part of Dominica, boats ranging from small wooden water taxis to cargo vessels measuring up to 130 feet sheltered in the mouth of the Indian River, the deepest river in the country. However, Hubert reports that a new bridge planned to replace the old one over the Indian River will not provide adequate clearance for many vessels to reach safety. Hubert notes that the Dominica Marine Association is working with all stakeholders in trying to create solutions for local boat problems during hurricane season, and also on making Dominica one of the Caribbeans hottest spots for yachties.Ž Plans are being made for a marina in Dominicas Cabrits National Park that will accommodate yachts up to 130 feet with modern amenities and facilities. From Guadeloupe, yacht rally organizer Stéphane Legendre reports little effect from the storm, which brought a maximum wind of 45 knots. He notes that some beaches and seaside restaurants suffered, but Marina Bas du Fort at Pointe-à-Pitre was completely unaffected. He adds a navigation note: Caution should be observed at Ilet Gosier anchorage as a small wreck moved from one side of the mooring to the other, losing its superstructure in the process. The wreck is very visible on the west side of the islet on a sand bank. The superstructure is lying one foot underwater, close to the isletpontoon „ so watch out!Ž And although Hurricane Dean passed just south of Jamaica on its westward track across the Caribbean Sea, Christine Downer of the Errol Flynn Marina at Port Antonio on the islands northeast coast reports: The Errol Flynn Marina suffered no damage to its marina or boatyard facilities. There were a number of vessels in our wet slips and also on dry dock and there was no damage to any of these boats. Port Antonio and Errol Flynn Marina and Boatyard stand ready to accommodate yachts, and supply fuel and boatyard services as usual.Ž Mexican Tall Ship Bound for Curaçao On invitation from the Curaçao Sail Foundation, the Mexican sail-training ship ARM Cuauhtémoc will visit Curaçao from October 13th to 18th. For more information contact ceo@curacaosail.com. Excuse Us, Were Lost The photo caption on page 24of the August issue of Compass should have read Bocas del ToroŽ, not Bocas del RioŽ. Apologies for any confusion caused. Welcome Aboard! In this issue of Compass we welcome aboard new advertiser Sea and Sail of Guadeloupe, page 47. Good to have you with us! Boats Found Adrift On August 20th, the catamaran S/V Kit-is (see photo) was found approximately 51 nautical miles west of Dominica by the oil tanker Goodrich Bay and towed to Point Lisas, Trinidad. It seems to have been damaged by Hurricane Dean. Ships papers in French were found on board but the owners name is indiscernible. Anyone with knowledge of this yacht or its owners is asked to contact the Caribbean Marine Association at info@caribbeanmarineassociation.com or (868) 634-4938. Also, a white 27-foot Albin Vega named Lorelei was found adrift off the south side of St. John, US Virgin Islands, on August 22nd. The sloops anchor was down, and a French passport in the name of Jacky Millet was found aboard. Anyone with knowledge of this yacht or its owners is asked to contact Lindy at yachts@islands.vi or (340) 998-5149. Dismasted but afloat, this cat was found adrift three days after Hurricane Dean passed through the St. Lucia Channel

PAGE 6

SEPTEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 6 REAL SAILORS BUY STREETS GUIDESReal sailors use Streets Guides for inter-island and harbor piloting directions, plus interesting anecdotes of people, places and history. Streets Guides are the only ones that describe ALL the anchorages in the Eastern Caribbean. Real sailors also buy the other guides, that have pretty pictures and describe hotels, bars, restaurants and anchorages that are popular with bareboaters. Real sailors circle in Streets Guide the anchorages that are not described in the other guides. This enables them to find quiet anchorages far from The Madding CrowdŽ.Streets Guides are available at bookshops and chandleries, or from www.iUniverse.com and www.seabooks.com STREETS GUIDES ARE MORE ECONOMICAL!Written by an author with 50 years of sailing experience in the Caribbean, the series four volumes cover the Eastern Caribbean from Puerto Rico down through the islands and the coast of Venezuela to the ABCs. DONT LEAVE PORT WITHOUT ITGli Gli is a traditional Carib sailing dugout canoe, built in Dominica in 1996 from the trunk of a gommier tree. In 1997 she sailed with ten Carib crew from Dominicas Carib Territory down the Windward Islands chain, through the Orinoco Delta and into the river systems of northwest Guyana. Accompanying Gli Gliw on that voyage was Carmela , a 120-foot Dominica-built trading schooner, which carried a multinational film and support crew. One of the main purposes of that expedition was to create awareness of the current status of the Carib people. Expedition members researched the surviving customs, language and material culture of the Caribs in their original homelands. On May 26th 2007, Gli Gli , with a crew of 11 Kalinago Caribs from Dominica and accompanied by the support vessel Fiddlers Green , arrived in Tortola after a 20-day expedition through the Leeward Islands from Antigua to the BVI, with stops at Nevis, St. Kitts, St. Barths, St. Maarten/St. Martin, Anguilla and Sombrero. Antigua Having been based in Antigua for a year, and participating in two Antigua Classic Yacht Regattas, the Gli Gli crew was sad to leave its new friends. Our stay in Antigua was a training ground for the new crew members as well as an opportunity to generate awareness of Carib culture in Antigua. During the year, Gli Gli got a lot of attention from both the local media and the yachting community. It was the first time a truly indigenous Caribbean boat had participated in the Classic Yacht Regatta, which resulted in a lot of heads turning. Seeing Gli Glis ancient dugout design sailing amongst the most glamorous classic yachts in the world, gave her Carib crew great pride and the fellow participants a positive insight into an aspect of Caribbean culture most barely knew existed. The Gli Gli crew gave a musical performance in front of the Admirals Inn as a tribute to the late Desmond Nicholson, who had spent much of his life researching the pre-Columbian peoples of Antigua. His daughter, Nancy, was Gli Glis special host, and we give our thanks to her as well as the Antigua National Trust, the Yacht Club, the Yacht Club Marina staff and many others who did so much to make Antigua a perfect starting point for our expedition. On May 6th we sailed out of Nelsons Dockyard accompanied by the topsail schooner Fiddlers Green, owned and rigged by Captain Doug Watson of Australia. Under full sail and with light winds on our stern we set our course for Nevis. Nevis On arrival in Nevis our host, John Guilbert from the Nevis Historical and Conservation Society, and a thick crowd had gathered on the Charlestown waterfront. Within minutes it seemed, we were at the Nevis museum, being officially greeted by the Hon. Minister Hensley Daniel. We then gave the first of our presentations in the packed courtyard. We showed the BBC film of our first expedition and the Gli Gli band performed traditional Carib music. Under the masterful leadership of Paulinus Frederick, the chief spokesperson and musician of the expedition, speeches on Carib culture and lively drumming performances were to become a major feature of our trip. The generosity of the people of Nevis was overwhelming, from the Nevis Tourist Board to Teach, the Carib taxi driver, and the Yearwood family of Oualie Beach Resort: we were given everything from a free lunch to island tours and resort accommodation. On leaving we were very happy to give our hard-working host John Guilbert a sail to St. Kitts „ starting something of a tradition on the trip of taking our hosts with us to the next island! St. Kitts Once again blessed by good sailing conditions, we sailed into Port Zante marina to the delight of a massive crowd of excited school children, the public and the press. Our generous host here was Hazel Brooks from the St. Christopher Heritage Society, who worked extremely hard to arrange a smooth arrival for us with the authorities and conjured up island-wide support for our visit through the media. That first evening Paulinus spoke outside the museum and the Gli Gli band performed to a huge crowd that was intrigued to see real CaribsŽ. „Continued on next page Carib Canoe's Leeward Island Expeditionby Aragorn Dick-Read

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SEPTEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 7 „Continued from previous page Kalinago Caribs play an important part in the historical lore of St. Kitts, though sadly most noted for their last stand against British and French invaders and their final massacre at Bloody Point. It was here we were taken the next day by a very interesting Kittitian of old European descent, Greg Pereira. Greg has a lifelong passion for the pre-Columbian history of his island and has made a business sharing that knowledge as a tour company owner. At Bloody Point we were met by a large group of school children and their teachers, who accompanied us on the walk to Bloody River to see the site of the massacre and the numerous petroglyphs carved on the cliffs. This was a very moving place for everyone in the group. John Francis, the Gli Gli projects co-director, led a ritual of remembrance for the fallen ancestors by singing the ancient Carib spirit-calling songs. We also took the opportunity to hold a minutes silence in honour of Prince Hamlet, one of the key men on the 1997 Gli Gli expedition, who passed away three years ago. We left Bloody River to visit the old British fortress at Brimstone Hill where, in one of the store rooms, Paulinus discovered the bones of some of the victims of the Bloody River massacre packed up in cardboard boxes. We all gathered around to contemplate this physical encounter with the remains of the souls we had just been with. It was something of a shock to be holding the skulls of those who fell 400 years before. Paulinus made a pledge to ensure that the authorities of St. Kitts show due respect to his ancestors and rebury their remains in a monument to their honor. St. Kitts was a powerful experience for the Gli Glicrew. We were sorry to have to leave so soon, but we made sure we took our host Hazel for a sail in the harbour and Greg a passage to Nevis, where we prepared for the crossing to St. Barths. St. Barths The St. Barths crossing began with fair breeze. We had an enlarged flotilla as three yachts from Antigua had caught up with us: Rush,Jadie and Cooie . This gave our camera crew the first opportunities to shoot Gli Gli and Fiddlers Green sailing together. We were also glad of the extra safety boats, had we needed them. Gli Glis most dangerous point of sail is dead downwind in rolling seas and as we lost sight of St. Kitts in the Sahara haze the swells started to pick up, nearly swamping us a couple of times. Etiene ChaloŽ Charles, builder and captain of Gli Gli , called for shortened sail, so we dropped the sprit and retied the upper clew three feet lower down on the bamboo. We havent reduced sail in this way before; normally we take out the sprit completely and sail with a folded lateen rig. However it worked very well to reduce the roll of the canoe as we slid down the swells, allowing us to continue safely through the afternoon heat to St. Barths. Having waited a while at the eastern tip of the island for Fiddlers to catch up and deliver the drums and cameraman, we made our way into Gustavia. We were greeted by a happy gathering „ something close to the elite of St. Barths, including our good friends Lou Lou and Jenny Magras, our very gracious host Daniel Blanchard (an ex-mayor, now in charge of Club UNESCO), Raymond, Lou Lous brother (another exmayor), and the current mayor, Bruno Magras, and his deputy Yves Greaux. A bond of language was immediately made between the Carib crew and our hosts, who all spoke the same Creole French. The Gli Gli crew was given very special treatment by Club UNESCO. We were accommodated in the municipal lodge, used for visiting sports teams, and we were provided with a mini-van. Our cultural expedition turned into something of a relaxing island sojourn for a few days, a big change from the confined conditions and hammock-and-mat sleeping routine aboard Fiddlers Green . The pre-Columbian heritage of St. Barths is somewhat lost in the cosmopolitan luxuries of this once tranquil island. Aside from historical records of the first settlers being forced off the island by Carib warriors and the few artifacts in the museum, there is little evidence of Carib culture, except, as we discovered, that the traditional fishing boats of St. Barths were once dugout sailing canoes. For an island with no trees to speak of this was a strange choice of vessel. We learned from Daniel and his cousin Edouard, the pirogue , or dugout, hulls were brought over from Guadeloupe or Dominica and then fashioned into fishing boats on St. Barths by the application of frames and boardage to raise the freeboard. By co-incidence, before Daniel knew anything about Gli Glis intention to visit St. Barths, he and his cousin had ordered the building of one of these boats. They had contacted Prosper Paris in the Carib Territory of Dominica and commissioned an 18-foot pirogue to be made. Prosper gave the job to Chalo, his wifes father. Before we arrived, Chalo had finished his work and shipped the hull to St. Barths, where we met it set up and being worked on in Edouards workshop. They were very excited to have the two master canoe builders of the Caribs and their apprentice sons come to view the work. It was very interesting to see a canoe being made in a neat workshop with all available tools; you could see Chalo and Papa Merlins eyes light up at the sight of it. The next day we went up into the bush at la Grand Fond, to cut some poywe (white cedar) ribs to attach the boardage. The moon was good and the chain-saw working. It was fun to go  en bois Ž again with the Gli Gli canoe-building team, along with our new friend, looking for the right shape of branch for the job. St. Maarten After taking our hosts for a sail on Gli Gli , we had to move on. There was a strong wind and rolling sea, so after a short stop at the dry and rocky Isle de Fourche, we reduced Gli Glis sail to a lateen and flew the 15 miles downwind into Philipsburg, St. Maarten, catching a good-sized tuna en route. St. Maarten was fully awakened to the Gli Gli visit. Our hosts, the St. Maarten Heritage Society, run by Elsje Bosche, assisted by our friend Zdenka Kiric, had spread the word and when we arrived to show our film and perform some Carib music at the public library it was standing room only. We are grateful to Ans Koolen, who runs the library, for setting up this opportunity. Many friends and family members of the crew, some long lost, came out to see Gli Gli and give their support to our mission. Being a regional economic centre, St. Maarten has attracted many Kalinago Carib people from Dominica, who came in search of work. Some of them, under the leadership of Lindo Frederick, have come together to form the Kalinago Support Group, which raises money and awareness for issues back in the Carib Territory . „Continued on next page Gli Glis arrival in St. Kitts, where Kalinago Carib lore plays an important part in local history At various island stops „ here Phillipsburg, St. Maarten „ the Gli Gli band performed traditional Carib music

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SEPTEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 8 ENGINES(DUTY FREE PRICES)SPARES SERVICE MARINE EQUIPMENTLocated CALLIAQUA, St. Vincent opposite Howards MarineTEL: (784) 457 1806 FAX: (784) 456 1364 E-mail: kpmarine@caribsurf.com P.O. Box 17, Kingstown PAIE LTDY AMAHA MA R INE DISTRIBUTORKMRN YAMAHAParts Repairs Service Outboard Engines 2HP-250HP Duty-Free Engines for Yachts McIntyreBros. Ltd.TRUE BLUE, ST. GEORGES, GRENADA W.I. PHONE: (473) 444 3944/1555 FAX: (473) 444 2899 email: macford@caribsurf.com TOURS & CRUISES CAR & JEEP RENTAL MID ATLANTIC YACHT SERVICESPT-9900-144 HORTA / FAIALAZORESTEL +351 292 391616 FAX +351 292 391656 mays@mail.telepac.ptwww.midatlanticyachtservices.comProviding all vital Services & Repairs for Trans-Atlantic Yachts Electronics,Chandlery,Rigging Bunkered Fuel (+10,000lt) EU-VAT (15%) Importation „Continued from previous page Elsje Bosch, the energy behind the Heritage Society, has created a wonderful museum full of artifacts. We had lunch there with various officials and the International Association of Caribbean Archaeologys Jay Haviser; acting Lt. Governor Mathias Voges dropped by. An interesting debate ensued about preColumbian canoes and whether or not sails were in use before Europeans arrived. No hard evidence has been found of an ancient sail, possibly because sails are usually made from fast-decaying material. For me, the lack of evidence does not write off the possibility that some form of sail was used before 1492. Trying to paddle a canoe the size of Gli Gli , or bigger, in the swells of the Caribbean Sea is no easy task. Chalo firmly believes his ancestors used a sail of sorts. He concedes that Gli Glis sprit rig is quite possibly influenced by the early French Breton sail type, but it could well be a modification of a pre-Columbian design. The debate is on-going. The museum has a steady contact with the Carib territory as Elsje buys crafts from there to sell in the shop. At some point she had ordered a four-foot model pirogue to be made for the museums Carib display. Chalo spotted the canoe and recognized his own handiwork! A gentle sail down the coast to Simpson Bay took us to the beach bar Picante for another dinner and musical event. The next day, after rowing under the bridge and a relaxing sail across the flat waters of the lagoon we left the Dutch side of the island and entered the French side, where we were glad to use a free night to relax and prepare for our next leg to Anguilla. Our flotilla increased yet again at this point, with the addition of Breath , captained by my good friend Peter Muilenburg from St. John in the Virgin Islands. With classic lines and rig, his home-built double-ender was a good visual companion to Fiddlers Green . Peter has been writing about the Caribbean for years and was commissioned to write an article for Caribbean Travel and Life on Gli Glis voyage. Anguilla Our sail to the flat island of Anguilla was pictureperfect with smooth seas and an easy breeze. We invited Zdenka to join us, and her sailing skills were a great addition. What was to be a short trip around the western tip of Anguilla and up the north side to Sandy Ground turned into a long days sail, delayed by a picnic lunch at one of Anguillas irresistible sandy coves, and extended by a dying breeze and an up-wind haul to the bay. By late afternoon, still making long tacks across the sound, we got the message on the radio from our host, Damien Hughes, that the welcoming crowd was getting impatient. It was only when we got within sight of the beach that we quite understood what he had meant by crowd „ 1,500 boat-loving people of Anguilla had turned out and Gli Gli was hauled up the beach by a hundred hands. It was an overwhelming response that goes down in Gli Glis history as the mother of all welcomes! The Anguillian people blessed us with shore-side accommodation right behind the beach. Sydans guest house donated two rooms, and former prime minister Sir Emile Gumbs, who lives next door as his family has done for generations, gave us his backyard cottage. A skeleton crew was left on Fiddlers Green and Gli Gli stayed high up on the beach to be admired by the population. Our next few days and nights were something close to a fully fledged rock star tour, which doubled as an intense Carib culture educational road show. One of our first invitations was from Bankie Banks, Anguillas international reggae star. We spent a great evening out at his driftwood palace, The Dune ReserveŽ, feasting and sharing musical inspiration. Our official host, Damien Hughes, arranged our stay down to the last detail. The first two days we undertook a tour of almost every school in Anguilla. At each stop, under the now expert leadership of Paulinus, we gave the children a brief talk about Carib history and culture, followed by a musical performance. The response was astounding; aside from intelligent questions and genuine interest in the Carib legacy, the children (sometimes to the dismay of their teachers) went wild at the sound of the Carib music. We managed to squeeze in a press session at the National Trust office that soon turned into a general discussion about the pre-Columbian history of the region. Later we attended a workshop on Carib craft, traditional drumming and cassava bread at Ijahnyas cultural centre. Ijahnya is a culture-woman in the Rasta tradition, who has built a space for all people to come and share and learn. Here the afternoon was spent teaching groups of school children various elements of traditional Carib culture, including basket-making, calabash carving, drumming, and, working with a lively 85-yearold Anguillian lady called Ruby Read, baking cassava bread. It was a wonderful afternoon that illustrated how many aspects of what we call Caribbean Culture are directly inherited from the pre-Columbian inhabitants. The peoples enthusiasm for the Gli Gli expedition was one thing, but the real highlight of our visit to Anguilla took place out of sight of the public, in a sacred cave that has been closed to visitors since it became recognized as a major archaeological site 20 years ago. The Fountain can be described as a preColumbian cathedral, a cave 60 feet underground that houses petroglyphs and carvings of the complete pantheon of the Amerindian gods as well as a spring of crystal clear water. Archaeologists rank this site as one of the most important cave sites in the Caribbean and the evidence found inside it suggests that it was a major ceremonial centre. Shards of pottery from as far away as South and Central America have been found inside, indicating that it was an important shrine for travelers from throughout the region. We were honored to have been allowed into the cave by the Anguilla National Trust and hope that our visit will help the Anguillians bid to get it recognized as a World Heritage Site. The Anguillian peoples love of wooden boats made us feel very much at home. Evenings like the one spent at Laurie Gumbs bar, The Pump House, made leaving Anguilla hard. We decided to change our sailing plan to the BVI. Instead of crossing the Anegada passage in one long run, we plotted a course for Sombrero, a tiny rock a little north of the rhumb-line. Sir Emile knows more about this desolate rock than anyone. Having been the owner of the schooner Warspite that once supplied the lighthouse keepers, he had many tales to tell of visiting in all conditions. His advice to us was Go! The seas are flat and the forecast says no wind; you dont get many opportunities like that in a year to visit Sombrero.Ž So we slid out of Sandy Ground with a light breeze coming from the southwest, Fiddlers Green captained by Sir Emile for old times sake. As we reached Dog Island, the Gumbs family departed in their speedboat. The wind dropped to nothing and so we unstepped Gli Glis mast and Fiddlers Green towed her the 20 miles to Sombrero through a flat glistening sea and schools of dolphins. Sombrero Sombrero is a sheer, rocky outcrop not more than 400 metres long and 100 metres wide, alive with birds and sea life. The whole flotilla managed to tie to the rocks surrounding the tiny inlet by the islands landing ladder. Our team dispersed for a day to wander the island, explore the abandoned lighthouse, fish, eat and laze around. After the previous 20 days of highprofile presentations throughout the Leeward Islands, being in an empty space, a total cultural void, where we could immerse ourselves in pure nature, was a needed psychological relief. Two hours ahead of schedule nature told us clearly when it was time to leave. A north swell came in with little warning and our lines began to strain dangerously. The conch shell was blown and within ten minutes Fiddlers Green and Gli Gli pulled out of the rocky hole under power. There was still no wind, so after much planning and anticipation for our biggest crossing under sail, it turned out that Gli Gli was to make the rest of the Anegada passage under tow. This was something of a let-down for the core sailors of the Carib crew, but a chance for all to wind down and prepare for the end of our voyage. Tortola The welcome in the BVI was intentionally low key. Family and friends gathered in Trellis Bay for a relaxed dinner and an impromptu slide show of our adventure. The Kalinago spirit was celebrated amongst ourselves with drumming and singing around the fire. Gli Gli was back on the beach in its palm-shaded boat house and Fiddlers Green sat lighter in the water, as all the equipment and project team were removed to our beach camp. The Gli Glis mission was accomplished for now. A highlight for the Gli Gli crew was a visit to Anguillas pre-Columbian cathedral cave

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SEPTEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 9 Business BriefsTohatsu Outboards Choose Budget Marine Japanese outboard engine manufacturers Tohatsu have signed a formal agreement giving Budget Marine the rights to be the distributor of the Tohatsu brand in the Eastern Caribbean. In July, Budget Marine Group Manager Robbie Ferron visited Tohatsus headquarters in Tokyo and new state-of-the-art manufacturing plant in Komagane, which has a production capacity of over 200,000 units per year. He was guided by representatives of the export agency handling the Budget Marine account in the persons of Messrs Akita and Fujita of Santai Trading. The agreement was signed on behalf of Tohatsu by Mr. Sanada and on behalf of the Budget Marine Group by Robbie Ferron. Budget Marine, which has ten chandlery outlets within the Caribbean, started retailing Tohatsus two-stroke engines in 2004. It quickly became apparent that these reliable, compact and affordable outboard engines, with their terrific horsepower-to-weight ratios, provided an ideal solution for Caribbean boaters who regularly have to lift and stow their motors on board. As the demand for low emission, high fuel economy outboard engines increases, Tohatsus four-stroke and award-winning TLDI series (direct fuel injection system, precisely controlled) that exceed EPA and CARB requirements, are also being introduced in Budget Marine stores. Robbie Ferron says: Our chandlery group is in an ideal position to provide after-sales service for Tohatsu outboards throughout the island chain. We stock a very broad range of Tohatsu parts and in June 2007, as part of ongoing staff training, a Tohatsu delegation made a presentation to our top technical sales and purchasing personnel, reinforcing Budget Marines understanding of, and commitment to this brand and its bright future in the Caribbean.Ž For more information on Budget Marine see ad on page 2. Second Loft for Turbulence in Grenada Turbulence Ltd, Grenada announces the opening this month of a new Turbulence sail loft at Grenada Marine, St. Davids Harbour, in addition to their existing loft at Spice Island Marine Services at Prickly Bay. The new loft, equipped with three new sewing machines, can accommodate even large catamaran mainsails. Genoas and mainsails for boats up to 45 feet can be fabricated on site. A full range of canvas work, from winch covers to full awnings, is also available. As the agent for Doyles Sails in Grenada, Turbulence can provide its customers with D4 racing sails (see www.doylesails.com/sails-d4-home.htm). Also available is the latest in Hydra-net sails „ a non-laminate woven material that will not separate or attract mildew, and which offers a great weight saving for large mainsails. In addition, Turbulences rigging department will set up your catamaran or monohull with bowsprit and improve your deck layout for the trouble-free use of gennakers. Turbulence Ltd. also has a NAVTEC hydraulic repair station at Spice Island Marine boatyard where their inhouse approved technician can perform repairs on vangs, backstays and multi-function systems. All common seals are in stock. For more information on Turbulence Ltd. see ad on page 14 . For more information on Doyle Sails see ads on pages 1 and 16. MYBA Acquires St. Maarten Charter Show The Mediterranean Yacht Brokers Association (MYBA) has acquired the St. Maarten Charter Yacht Exhibition. MYBA is a trade association founded in 1984 by a group of prominent yacht brokers with the aim of promoting standards of professionalism and ethics in the yachting industry. throughout the M The acquisition of the Sint Maarten exhibition will allow MYBA to offer charter brokers a winter charter show run specifically with their best interests in mind, as well as those of their fleets owners, captains and crews. The show, which will continue to be managed on behalf of MYBA by the St. Maarten Marine Trades Association (SMMTA), will now be known as the MYBA St. Maarten Charter Show. The first show under the new arrangement will take place in Sint Maarten from the 3rd through 7th of December, 2007. Registration will be open for all qualified brokers, yachts, press, and exhibitors at the new show website: www.mybacaribbeanshow.com. Both the MYBA and the SMMTA are committed to bringing the same standards and quality which has become synonymous with the MYBA sister show in Genoa while at the same time preserving the Caribbean flair of Sint Maarten. New Luxury Marina Complex for Anguilla Island Global Yachting(IGY) held a groundbreaking ceremony on July 9th to announce their selection as the master developer and operator of a new luxury five-star marina and upland facility at Altamer Resort on Anguilla. The development, which will serve as the official port of entry to Anguilla, will feature a 101-slip marina of which 30 percent of the berths will accommodate megayachts. Additionally, the complex will include 740,000 square feet of upland space which is currently slated for a 164-unit resort plus a duty-free shopping and restaurant promenade. Scheduled to open in late 2009, the project is a partnership between IGY and Altamer Resort owners Michael and Rebecca Eggleton, and will be the first marina built on Anguilla. For more information visit www.igymarinas.com. The Moorings Expands Tortola Base The Moorings yacht charter company announced that construction has commenced on a US$10-plus million project which will enhance its flagship base in Road Town, Tortola. The Moorings new village will be located on the southern end of the current property, which is being extended. The complex is designed to take advantage of the ocean views, with an open plaza for retail shops and concierge-style customer service. There will be a new customer reception area and lounge with wi-fi service, multimedia-equipped briefing area, club-style shower facility, over-the-water gazebo bar and restaurant, a new conference area and new oceanfront hotel suites. The new retail shops will open onto an outdoor dining plaza overlooking the harbor. As part of this expansion, a new breakwater will be built to provide additional slip space and the new waterfront area on the main harbor. The new docks and jetty will allow for additional dockage of approximately 120 yachts and provide easier access for the beamier designs of the new monohulls and continually expanding fleet of catamarans. The environmentally responsible new breakwater is designed with multiple channels to increase the natural seawater flow into the harbor. Natural circulation will further be assisted through seawater pumps that move existing water from the harbor entrance into the innermost portion of the harbor, with filtration to enhance its quality. The Moorings is proud to unveil this project which will be the most environmentally friendly charter facility in the Caribbean,Ž commented The Moorings president, Lex Raas. The construction is expected to be completed during early 2008. The existing hotel, pool, restaurant and bar along with the dockside amenities continue to remain for the use of all guests of Wickhams Cay II marina. For more information on The Moorings visit www.moorings.com. Grenadas Port Louis Marina Helps Hildur to New Home A major part of the Port Louis Marina project in Grenada has been the extensive clean-up of the southwestern shores of St. Georges Lagoon. Port Louis Grenada has reportedly already spent more than EC$9 million dredging and removing garbage, scrap metal, pylons and abandoned wrecks from the marina area. The latest of the wrecks to be removed is the Hildur. Once a cargo boat sailing the Caribbean Sea, Hildur became a casualty of both time and Hurricane Ivan. Port Louis work crews spent 12 weeks patching and welding the vessel, which was recently towed out to sea and sunk in open waters outside of the village of Moliniere. The Hildur will add to the many dive sites off Grenadas coast. Port Louis marina manager Danny Donelan explained the significance of the careful removal of the Hildur to their overall vision of the marina project: We are spending millions to clean up the marina,Ž he said. We are doing this not only because we want the best and most beautiful marina in the world, but because we want this marina to enhance the environment and not degrade it.Ž For more information on Port St. Louis Grenada visit www.portlouisgrenada.com.

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SEPTEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 10 NEW A T XANADU MARINE: AMER ON ABC 3 TIN FREE ANTIFOULING P AINT Marlin Bottom Paint * Delco * Underwater Metal Kit * Z-Spar * Cetol * Mercury Seachoice * Marpac * Teleflex * Tempo * Ritchie * Breeze * Whale * Ancor Racor * Wix * Shurflo* Johnson Pumps * 3-M * Flags * Perko * Jabsco * Groco Boatlife * Starbrite * Camp Zincs * Marine Padlocks * Orion * Sunbrella Weblon * Clear Vinyl * Canvaswork Supplies * Marinco * Garmin * Uniden Apelco * Harken * Sta-lok * 316 SS Rigging * Cordage * West System * ShieldsDinghy Accessories * Waterproofing * Aqua Signal * Imray lolaire ChartsCORNER OF MIRANDA & GUARAGUAO, PUERTO LA CRUZ,VENEZUELATELEPHONE:(58) (281) 265-3844 FAX:(58) (281) 265-2448E-mail:xanadumarine@cantv.net Standby VHF Channel 72DISCOUNTS ON ARTIGIANA BATTELLIAND CARIBE DINGHYSTHE CRUISING SAILORS CHANDLERY SINCE 1990€ PERSONALIZED ATTENTION BY OUR EXPERIENCED STAFF € REPLACEMENT PARTS & MAINTENANCE PRODUCTS No hurricanes 270sq. miles of calm seas Full amenities Phone: (58-281) 267-7412 Fax: (58-281) 2677-810 VHF Channel 71 Web page: http://bahiaredonda.com.ve E-Mail: brmi@cantv.net marina internacionalEl Morro Tourist Complex Puerto La Cruz VenezuelaLat. 10° 12 ' 24"N Long. 64° 40 ' 5"W Young St. Lucians Learn Ridge to ReefBy far the greatest sources of marine pollution are those that are land-based. These include agricultural run-off (sometimes containing pesticides), sewage, waste water and sediment. In the Caribbean, all too often rivers and drains are used as dumps for both solid and liquid waste. In July, 30 students in St. Lucia learned about watershed issues and their impact on coral reefs at a Ridge to Reef Watershed Training Camp, hosted by the Forestry Department at their rainforest camp near Micoud. The students braved intense rain storms to learn the connections between the rainforest and the coral reefs, and how land-based activities can affect the sea. Students explored their home watersheds, went on a photo safari, learned how to test water for contaminants, hiked in the rainforest, and viewed the reefs through the glass bottomed boats at the marine park. Many also learned to snorkel to see the fish close up. Kiawa from Marigot couldnt believe all the fish she saw. As the group members viewed each others photo safaris, she asked, So what can we do about the sediment going onto our reefs?Ž The students creativity was evident as they suggested ways to reduce erosion and also catch the sediment before it reaches the sea. At the end-ofcamp talent show, the students dramatized different ways to protect the water. The students and teachers who participated are now designing watershed monitoring and improvement programs in their home watersheds, using the training in environmental education and watershed improvement techniques they received from Al Stenstrup, Curriculum Director at Project Learning Tree, a Washington DCbased environmental training organization and Dr. Padgett Kelly, professor of environmental education at Middle Tennessee State University and board member of National Marine Educators Association, as well as Caribbean SEA (Caribbean Student Environmental Alliance) Executive Director, Mary Beth Sutton. The innovative programme was led by Caribbean SEA and the Sustainable Development and Environment Unit of the Ministry of Economic Affairs, and funded by NOAAs Coral Reef Conservation Program. Communities and schools represented included Vieux Fort Comprehensive School Campus B, George Charles Secondary School, Dennery Primary, La Caye Primary, Soufriere, Choiseul, Canaries, Dennery, Marigot and the Mabouya Valley. The students also developed creative action plans for improving the water in their local rivers. They will now set up water monitoring in their home watersheds, implement strategies to improve the water and continue to monitor to see if they are successful. Next year they will present their findings to local officials and make recommendations based on their results. CARIBBEAN ECO-NEWS

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SEPTEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 11 DOCK, BAR&RESTAURANTOpen 7/7 VHF: 16/68€ deep water stern-to berth € water/ice/laundry € tel+fax+internet € gas stationCUSTOMS CLEARANCETel: (+) 596 596 66 05 45gas station: (+) 596 596 66 17 30e-mail: leponton@wanadoo.fr1433N 6103WPOINTE DU BOUT, MARTINIQUE THE SPECIALIST FOR BOAT MAINTENANCE IN MARTINIQUE Centre de Carenage 97290 Le MarinTel: +596 (0) 596 74 74 80 Fax: +596 (0) 596 74 79 16 carene.shop@wanadoo.fr Zinc Anodes Plumbing Marine Paints Batteries Epoxy Antifouling Le Marin REGATTANEWSGuadeloupe Goes Radio Racing Stéphane Legendre reports: A new sailing activity has been born in Guadeloupe, to occupy racing enthusiasts during the summer when major regattas are over. Fourteen owners of remote-controlled model Lasers and the restaurant Le Plaisancier have initiated the July Radio Controlled Lasers regatta series at Bas du Fort marina at Pointe-à-Pitre. For the inaugural race series, held July 4 to 25, a space was cleared close to the restaurant area of the marina for spectators to attend. Four very official races included judges and security on the water. Races started at 7:00PMand ended around 9:00 or 10:00PM. The evenings did not end there, though „ sometimes race-goers were at Le Plaisancier until 4 oclock the next morning! This years series winner is Stéphane Squarcioni from WayPoint Electronics. When do we organize transCaribbean regattas? For more information visit: www.sailrclaser.com or http://rclaser.fr St. Lucia Juniors Season Wrap-Up Ted Bull reports: July 6th saw the St. Lucia Yacht Club junior sailing programmes 2007 end-of-season fun day, with sailing, swimming and shoreside team events. During the season these youngsters attended regular sail-training sessions, starting with the very basics, progressing through various stages of instruction, and finally sailing solo in Optimist dinghies. From there they took advanced instruction in safety, boat maintenance, first aid and finally the art of racing. At age 15, the young sailors progress to the Olympic class Laser dinghy. The all-day, seasons-end celebration was organized by coach Benjamin Todd, junior sailing events administrator Lily Bergasse, and assistants Jennifer Spiegelberg, Sue Milner and Ulrich Meixner. Twenty-five young sailors were on the water and later received recognition for their achievements over the period. The Chris Renwick Laser Championship Trophy went to Dominic Lovell, with Luis Meixner in second place and Fredrick Sweeney third. The Home Services Optimist Championship Trophy was won by Raina Bergasse, followed by Stephanie Lovell and Marcus Sweeney. The Red Team, captain Luis Meixner, won the team event. Special Achievement Awards went to Sophia Spiegelberg, Most Determined; Mateo Heinemann, Most Enthusiastic; and Dario Daniel, Most Improved. Merit Certificates were received by Dylan Charles, Andre Felix, Marion Bardies, Luc Chevrier and Mark Spurway. Caribbean Kids Sail Internationally Some of the Eastern Caribbeans talented and hardworking junior sailors are gaining world-class racing experience at major international youth regattas. Trinidad & Tobago sent five young sailors to the Laser Radial Youth Worlds, held in the Netherlands. As this issue of Compass goes to press, after five races with one discard, Andrew Lewis is in 34th place out of 205 sailors; Stuart Leighton is 98th, Alistair Affoo 175th, James Leighton 181st and Matthew Scott 198th. Reports say that the North Seas big waves and strong currents are providing a real challenge to those accustomed to Caribbean conditions. Meanwhile, St. Lucian youth sailors Fredrick Sweeney and Luis Meixner have set their sights on the 2012 Olympics. In preparation, Fredrick competed in the 2007 North American Laser Championships, where he sailed a Laser Radial among the 58 competitors forming the Silver Fleet, earning a very creditable 14th place. As this issue of Compass goes to press, Luis is in Canada, racing a Laser Standard at the 2007 Volvo World Youth Championships. Trinidads Southern Caribbean Regatta The Guardian Holdings Group will again sponsor the Southern Caribbean Invitational Regatta, held in the waters of Chaguaramas, Trinidad. This years dates are December 27th through 30th. The organizing authority is the Trinidad & Tobago Sailing Association. Classes include Optimist (two age groups), Laser Standard, Laser Radial, MR 15 (a twoman dinghy with asymmetrical spinnaker) and SR Max (a three-man keelboat with spinnaker). Boats will be available for charter. Pre-registration begins this month, and is on a first come, first servedŽ basis. Complete registration takes place on Thursday 27th December from 9:00AM. Offisland participants „ ask about the interesting option of staying with a local sailing family! For more information visit www.ttsailing.org. Register Online for St. Maarten Classic Online registration for the St.Maarten-St.Martin Classic Yacht Regatta, to be held the third week of January 2008, is now open at www.ClassicRegatta.com. Regatta entry fees have been set at US$4 per foot if the registration is received on line. Registration in St.Maarten on the day before the start will cost US $6 per foot. Organizers hope to attract over 30 classic yachts to the event. The St.Barths-based Lone Fox , captained by Ira Epstein, has already been registered on line for the 2008 event. Lone Fox , a 65-foot ketch, was built in 1957 for Colonel Whitbread of Whitbread Breweries, the original sponsor of the Whitbread Round The World Race. 2008 Yacht Rallies Announced Want to sail in company with like-minded boaters to Trinidad for carnival next year? The third annual Route du Carnival rally will gather at Port du Marin, Martinique, on January 26th, 2008, enjoying two free nights at the marina. Rally participants will then sail to the Grenadines for an overnight stop in Bequia and two nights in the Tobago Cays, before sailing on to Trinidad where special arrangements are made to see the greatest show on earthŽ. Or, if youd like to join a rally heading to Cuba, the 9th edition of the popular Transcaraibes will depart in late March 2008, from Marina Bas du Fort, Guadeloupe, bound for Santiago de Cuba with funfilled stops in St. Martin, the BVI, and the Dominican Republic. „Continued on next page STEPHANE LEGENDRE

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SEPTEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 12 „Continued from previous page Both the Route du Carnival and the Transcaraibes are organized by Club Transcaraibes. The organizer speaks French and English. For more information visit www.transcaraibes.com. Rolex 2008 to Offer IRC Division For the 35th annual running of the International Rolex Regatta in March 2008, St. Thomas Yacht Club, USVI, will welcome yachts sailing under the IRC rating rule as well as those sailing under the CSA rating rule. The move „ a first for the Rolex and possibly setting a trend for other Caribbean regattas „ is intended to make it hassle-free for racing sailboats from the United States and Europe to compete. IRC is the only rule endorsed by ISAF (the International Sailing Federation) as an international rating rule and accepted throughout the world. With the majority of new racing sailboats being designed to IRC, it makes sense to allow them the chance to race under the IRC rule in one of the worlds best venues,Ž said Regatta Co-Director John Sweeney. We arent abandoning CSA; we are simply offering options to the sailors, and with that, encouraging a larger international fleet.Ž Sweeney further explained that CSA certificate holders are eligible to obtain an IRC rating as well. We encourage owners to investigate the requirements, and local measurers can assist in the process,Ž he said. With this development, we expect to see competitive racing under both rules and a growing potential for IRC throughout the Caribbean,Ž said US-IRC Executive Director John Mendez, adding that the event will again be part of the US-IRC Gulf Stream Series. Yachts that are from the US and already have their certificates can easily join the regatta; I view it like a passport that travels with you wherever you wish to sail.Ž The three-day International Rolex Regatta, scheduled for March 28th through 30th, 2008, is an annual favorite on the Caribbean racing calendar, catering not only to handicap yachts but also to one-design sailboats of at least 24 feet and beach cats. For more information on the US-IRC and CSA, visit www.us-irc.org and www.caribbean-sailing.com. For information on the International Rolex Regatta visit www.rolexcupregatta.com. Fishing Lines 32.54LB KINGFISH TOPS ST. THOMAS TOURNAMENT Nikolas Murdjeff of Florida fished last years Annual Bastille Day Kingfish Tournament in St. Thomas, USVI, and caught nothing. Not so this year. The 14-year-old, who has spent summers with his father in the Virgin Islands for the past seven years, reeled in a 32.54pound kingfish from aboard a 30-foot Waters Edge Sports rental boat to win the Largest Kingfish and Best Junior Male Angler prizes. Murdjeff pocketed US$2,000 in cash for his Largest Kingfish, sponsored by N.E.M. (West Indies) Insurance Limited, managed in the USVI by Red Hook Agencies, Inc, and also a weekend for two at Divi Carina Bay Beach Resort & Casino, with airline tickets compliments of Seaborne Airlines, that his father is sure to enjoy. Murdjeff also won US$250 in cash from Offshore Marine and Yanmar for his Best Junior Male win. The Second Largest Kingfish prize went to Ernest Quetel, Jr., who caught a 29.40-pounder aboard 4Q2 . Quetel won US$750 in cash sponsored by FedEx Express. Junior angler Peter Turbe, fishing aboard WETKYAT , reeled in a 29.17-pounder to win the Third Largest Kingfish cash prize of US$500, sponsored by Offshore Marine and Yanmar. With 16 fish caught total, Capt. Howard Griswold aboard Gone Ketchin , won Best Boat and Best Captain, and was awarded US$1,000 cash for each title, from Offshore Marine and Yanmar. Ernest Quetel, Jr.s, catch of a total of 76.29 pounds of fish also earned him Best Male Angler, and a US$500 cash prize from Offshore Marine and Yanmar. Marcia Griswold, aboard Gone Ketchin , reeled in a total of 62.39-pounds to pick up the Best Female Angler award and a US$500 prize from Red Hook Agencies. Joanica Aubain caught 18.83 pounds from aboard Rosaly to win Best Junior Female Angler and US$250 cash from Offshore Marine and Yanmar. All 34 registered junior anglers were eligible for a Catch In The HatŽ award, sponsored by Hull Bay Hideaway and Dan Perry. The first 16 names drawn from a hat received US$50 cash and the last two won US$100 dollars each. All registered junior anglers were treated to complimentary Island Oasis fruit smoothies. Each year, the Northside Sportfishing Club makes donations to community organizations and individuals. This years beneficiaries were The Joseph Sibilly School, St. Thomas Rescue, the American Red Cross, Kidscope and the Family Resource Center. The Club also awarded college scholarships to Shanelle Brin and Jason A. Brin. NEW VENUE FOR ST. LUCIA BILLFISH EVENT The Marina at Marigot Bay, St. Lucia, will be the new venue for the St. Lucia Game Fishing Associations annual billfish tournament. The 17th International Bill Fishing Tournament, to be held September 25 to 29, is being hosted by the SLGFA in conjunction with the Marina and Discovery at Marigot Bay, the islands newest five-star resort and marina village. Traditionally the tournament has been held at the Rodney Bay Marina in the north of the island, however organizers decided to move the event to take advantage of Marigot Bays central location and new facilities. Over 100 anglers from throughout the Caribbean and from the US are expected to take part in the event which will feature activities on and off the water at Discovery and neighbouring JJs Paradise, Chateau Mygo and Doolittles. The overall winner of the event wins entry into the 2008 Rolex/IGFA Offshore Championship and prizes including fishing tackle, a 225-horsepower outboard engine and a tournament trophy. In addition, there is a prize of a Sports Utility Vehicle for breaking the tournament record for blue marlin, currently held by Jean-Francois Fredonic of Martinique who caught a 707-pound fish in 1996. Last years winner was Hard Play from Trinidad & Tobago who reeled in a 407-pound blue marlin. There will be cash prizes for tag-and-release catches of white marlin, sailfish, long-bill spearfish, swordfish, mahi-mahi, tuna and wahoo, and prizes for the best female and junior anglers. For more information phone Annie Hamu (758) 716-8124.

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SEPTEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 13 The Round the Island Race for the traditional sailing craft of the French West Indian island of Guadeloupe was held this year from July 13th to 21st. For the sixth running of this hotly contested event, the course was different and interesting. A fleet of 35 open boats gathered in Les Saintes archipelago, south of the butterfly-shaped Guadeloupe, then moved up the leeward coast of Basse Terre, the butterflys western wing, for three races before heading to the windward coast of Grande Terre. Eight legs in total were sailed between Les Saintes and the village of Saint François on Grande Terres southeast coast. A weather forecast predicted a tropical wave to strike right in the middle of the event, just to make things a bit more difficult and selective than usual. But an even bigger selection process was going to take place along the windless leeward coast of Basse Terre, where local knowledge is essential to succeed. The jury came all the way from Martinique, neutral because from a different island. Do not forget that Guadeloupe is also nicknamed the land of passionsŽ and there is a lot of passion during this event! All the leaders on the traditional boat scene were present, many with new boats. Skippers came from Les Saintes, la Desirada, Vieux Fort, Carénage (Pointeà-Pitre), Sainte Anne, Deshaies, Saint François and Marie Galante. Claude Thélier, the four-time winner of the event, and the well-known Forbin boatbuilding family also took part. Although the first days starting signal was given with little wind, the breeze picked up as the fleet reached the Saintes Channel and a good 20 knots from the northeast pushed the fleet for a fast crossing to Vieux Fort at the southwestern tip of Basse Terre. Things became difficult as the wind died in front of Basse Terre city and the finish line. Claude Thélier, on Foutefe , won that leg with a comfortable lead over the others and took the lead in the regatta. Legs Two and Three, to Vieux Habitants and Pointe Noire respectively, were two days of nerve-racking competition. Théliers leadership was challenged and, choosing a disastrous option in Leg Two, he lost his chances of winning overall. Then appeared the Forbins family strategy: always be close to the leader and above all never take a risky option which you would have to pay for in cashŽ. That strategy worked well for Patrick Forbin, on Ijala , who was always close to the winner of the day. Thélier tried, during what remained of the regatta, to catch up by winning five of the eight races, but unfortunately it was not enough to keep Patrick Forbin from winning overall by only one point. Thélier came second overall with 36 points, and last years second place winner Alain Dabriou came third, with 52 points, on Calin du Matin . The Forbins family success story was confirmed during this event: on Patrick Forbins winning crew was one of his sons; his brother Jean Forbin came fifth, with 59 points, on Ti Bredla ; and another brother, Mathieu Forbin, was 12th only because he had to abandon one race due to boat damage. Three of the four Forbin brothers run boatyards, and one son is working with his father, a family tradition which was transmitted by the deceased father to all his sons. On average, Jean and Patrick build five to six traditional boats per year. This incomparable experience of both building and racing them explains the success of this family in managing these difficult boats. The Round Guadeloupe Race for traditional boats has reached a new level and needs to be managed more professionally, like the famous Martinique yole races. The skills of the participants have reached a very high standard, and the championship is disputed all year long. New boats are built to improve performances within the rating. Public attendance is greater every year. The beaches at starts and finishes are packed with people, which creates a friendly atmosphere during the summer holiday for kids and parents. Tents are installed to serve food and host sponsors products. This year numerous media representatives were there for the first time, and they followed every race from beginning to end „ fitting for a major popular event, which this race has become. The conclusion to all this positive development is that more professionalism in organization and jury must be put in place to avoid endless discussions at protests. Guadeloupe locals do not naturally turn towards the sea and its activities, and this event is a real opportunity to foster appreciation of this new field of marine recreation for many. Children are keen to learn and a few schools are now teaching traditional sailing „ a very good sign for future generations. See you all next year! For more information visit www.cgvt2000.com. Traditional Boats Race Round Guadeloupe Boatbuilder Patrick Forbin (inset) used a low-risk strategy to sail Ijala to overall victory in the eight-day regattaby Stéphane Legendre

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SEPTEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 14 New Sail Loft New Sail Loft Is August de 4th an ah standin on de beach at Lesterre, Carriacou. Yo want to know whats up? Is de start ah de first boat race in de 42nd anniversary regatta. An ah tell yo, is ah replica ah last time ah been here, two years ago. It hardly got ah cloud in de sky, ah aint seein no wind on de water, de sun shinin hot like fire. Ah sorry fo dem poor sailors out dey today. Well, is ah open race, dat mean no matter what size yo be, all sailin together, call it ah party race! Eight boats altogether: Bluff, Cloudy Bay an Limbo from Bequia, an Passion, Ace, Out Rage, East Wind an Ghost from Carriacou an Petite Martinique. As ah say, 12 oclock dey start after ah long wait. On de course map, dem put down 11 oclock start but, fo tell yo de truth, when in Carriacou, stop worryin bout time; after all, 11 aint far from 12. Anyway, dem start. De wind dead light an dem snailin dem way up to de mark in Hillsborough. As dem reach dat mark, it look like dem not goin any further. De little air say, Ah done wid datŽ: ah say dem go call it off. Not to be, yo see, in Carriacou, dem accustom to dem conditions, dat is why ah 20-foot boat got sails bigger dan any in de other islands. Dem sailmakers does smile when dem walk in! Dey slammin to de outer mark den downwind an back up. Ah cyant watch dem fo long, de sun glare on de water hurtin me eye. An I on de land „ sorry fo dem in de boats all white sails out dey. Ah hope dey got Raybans, ha ha! About 3 oclock, de first one finish: Passion , she slip past Out Rage right at de finish, den Ghost , de others slammin dey way up. Ah hope we got better luck next day. Ah decide fo tek ah tour out to Windward, see how de party goin. Yo see, dem sloops does race around de island on de Saturday an do dem party fo demself up dey. Well, ah was ah bit shocked when ah see de erosion dat tek place durin Ivan an Emily. Most ah de mangrove an de manchineel trees gone, de water almost up in de road, an de shore line up wid small steel boats rustin away. Yo notice ah say shocked, well, Windward famous fo its wooden boat-buildin so ah surprise fo see so much iron on de beach. Good news, though. Ah see two new sloops building dey; might be ready fo next year Regatta. „Continued on next page The Grenadines open boats were originally designed for fishing. Built for handiness and speed, they are well suited to racing Light Air, Hot Sun, Long Open Boats by Orbin Ollivierre CARRIACOU REGATTA FESTIVAL 2007 ALL PHOTOS: MERRIMAN/BARTHOLOMEW

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SEPTEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 15 True Blue Bay Marina Resort & Villas Dock, moor or set anchor at True Blue Bay located in the south coast of Grenada and enjoy our full service marina and fabulous accommodation. Caribbean cocktails and delicious dishes are a must at our waterside Dodgy Dock Lounge Bar and True Blue Restaurant. Located five minutes walk from Spice Island Marine Services and five minutes drive from the airport. Aquanauts Dive Center Indigo Car Rentals & Horizon Yacht ChartersVHF Channel 16 473 443 8783 mail@truebluebay.com www.truebluebay.com „Continued from previous page Well, all dem sailors partyin an arguin who mek bad tack an who go get dem ass cut tomorrow, very good, back to town. Well, is Sunday mornin an ah look down on de harbour an fo tell de truth, it pretty fo so but fo swimmin an snorkellin not fo sailin. Is like glass on de water. It got ah small tanker in de harbour „ ah was wonderin if she pump out she oil in de bay, it so calm. Eleven oclock now an ah feelin ah little air on me skin an ah shadow on de water, good sign. De little air comin from de south so de land tekin half. Dem got two races today, about 40 boats sailin including eight deck sloops, nice fo see dem increasin. Last time ah was here, dem had tree left after de hurricane but now dem buildin back. Dey does look so nice downwind wid all de pretty spinnakers. Well, as ah say, 40 boats out in de harbour, lookin good, but my eyes on de long open boats as dey call dem down dey. We also got Tornado, Divine, Worries, Sweet Image an My Love from Bequia. Ah dont know all de names so, as de old people say, ah go tell yo what ah know. Dem do dey laps an comin to de finish, Passion in de lead, Bluff in second place „ but not fo long. De wind cut about 100 feet from de finish. Ah stand up pon de end ah de wharf, me heart in me mouth. Cloudy Bay 100 yards behind an got ah puff comin wid ah bone in she troat. Bam! She pass Bluff 20 feet to de mark an tek second place. Ah couldnt believe it although ah see it happen already right here in Carriacou. Limbo beatin Ace by a long way, Sweet Image just beatin out Worries ,an Tornado behind by ah long shot. De second race start about half past two, still de same conditions, same course, not much change only dis time, Bluff in second place. So yo know who behind. Ah hope it blow ah little wind tomorrow but de weatherman say stable conditions affectin de islands „ we go see. Well, Monday is here. Last race today an no change in de harbour, calm like a pond as dey say. Eleven oclock reach an not much difference, only some clouds hangin about, puttin doubt in dem skipper mind it go blow or not: yo tink we should change de sail? Yo tink we should carry mo ballast? Well, ah tell Bluff go wid what she carry yesterday, blow or not „ she stiff, she go stand up. Dem start; downwind dem go, Passion in de lead, Bluff, Cloudy Bay .Dem in de second lap now an same position but de wind doin ah shift aroun every now an den. As ah say, Passion in de lead, Bluff right behind. Is de first time in de four races dey ha fo tack, Passion on starboard, Bluff on port „ watch it! Bluff tack fo get out she way an mo tack to de finish, Passion still in front. About 100 feet to de finish, de wind drop. Passion stop in she tracks, Bluff jump she sheets, tek de little air an slide right past Passion fo tek de first! Ah know me friend Leo nah like dat. But, after all, he know anytin over 12 knot, Bluff is better dan Passion . Cloudy Bay trudgin behind, Limbo way ahead ah Ace, Sweet Image way ahead ah Worries . Imagine, wind at five knots an Worries capsizing. Fo all de year ah know Andy sailin, he cyant complete ah regatta without swimmin! All in all, ah enjoyed meself. It was ah very good regatta, ah bit low-keyed, but so ah like it. I must thank Leo an Bernard an de rest ah de regatta committee for mekin my stay an enjoyable one an puttin on ah good show. Hats off „ see yo next year. Carriacou Regatta 2007 WinnersSmall Open Boat A 1) Ark Royal , Roy Delisle, Petite Martinique 2) Pimpy , Verrol Compton, Carriacou 3) Wet , David Noel, Carriacou Small Open Boat A1 1) Sweet Image , Robert Hazell, Bequia 2) Worries , Andrew Mitchell, Bequia 3) Tornado , Kingsley Stowe, Bequia Small Open Boat B 1) Now For Now , Clayton DeRoche, Petite Martinique 2) Parasite , Clint Bethel, Petite Martinique 3) Perceive , Adlion Bethel, Petite Martinique Small Open Boat C 1) My Love , Stanley Harry, Bequia 2) Bad Feelings , Samuel Forde, Mayreau 3) Hard Target , Victor Hazell, Mayreau Small Open Boat D 1) Swift , Sean Martin, Sauteurs 2) Classic , Ted Richards, Gouyave 3) Passage , Nicholas Bethel, Sauteurs Long Open Boat A (Budget Marine) 1) Passion , Matthew Joseph, Carriacou 2) Bluff, Lashie King, Bequia 3) Cloudy Bay , Arnold Hazell, Bequia Long Open Boat B (Budget Marine) 1) Limbo , Alec Daniel, Bequia 2) Ace , Devas Joseph, Carriacou Stern Boat 1) Out-Rage , Emmanuel Bethel, Petite Martinique 2) Ghost , Emmanuel Clement, Petite Martinique 3) East Wind , Gerald Bethel, Petite Martinique Large Decked Sloop (Republic Bank) 1) Margeta O II , Bernard Compton, Carriacou 2) Glacier , Cheesman Patrice, Carriacou 3) Marie Stella , Michael Bethel, Carriacou Small Decked Sloop (Republic Bank) 1) Rosalina , Petroc Patrice, Carriacou 2) Run Away , Javid McLawrence, Carriacou 3) Small Pin , Hope McLawrence, Carriacou Round-D-Island Race (PSV Resort) 1) Glacier , Cheesman Patrice, Carriacou2) Marie Stella , Michael Bethel, Carriacou 3) Margeta O II , Cyril Compton, Carriacou Long Open Boat Saturday 1) Passion , Leo Joseph, Carriacou 2) Out-Rage , Emmanuel Bethel, Petite Martinique 3) Ghost , Emmanuel Clement, Petite Martinique Some 40 indigenous boats coming from seven islands raced in ten classes at this years Carriacou Regatta Festival

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SEPTEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 16 One thing you can count on when holding a Caribbean regatta in August is the uncertainty of the weather. That, coupled with the ability to track tropical waves while still over the African continent, caused a mass exodus of visiting yachts from Carriacou when a low pressure system formed in a wave several thousand miles to the east of the island. The low filled in, but at this years annual Carriacou Regatta yacht races, held August 3rd through 6th, Tyrrel Bay didnt quite see the numbers of competitors as previous years. Nonetheless, 20 yachts were on the start line for Fridays Doyle Offshore Sails-sponsored two-handed Round Carriacou Race, ranging from Phil and Fay Atkinsons Tramontana at 52 feet to the Laser sailed by Michael Weber and crew Ryan. With conditions of 12 to 16 knots of wind and a flat sea, once again the days cruiseŽ went very well, with almost everyone finishing in time for the afternoons fundraising auction. ( See story on page 17. ) Taking just over three hours, the Australian Tramontana was fastest round the island, dropping to third place on corrected time, with Phil Renfros Hughes 38 Otra Mundo showing us how they win races in Texas. Carriacou-based regatta regular Andy Smelt aboard his Spencer 44, Yellowbird, corrected to second. The CSA Fun Rule worked very well in this regatta, with such disparate yachts as Dominique Webers Sanctus , a Jeanneau Sun Kiss 47, correcting just 18 seconds in front of Uwe Gerstmanns Joshua Salai for fourth and fifth places. This regatta has always attracted unusual yachts. This year, SpeedyŽ John Evertons 50-foot, Manuel Campos-designed ketch Gaucho , at 60 years old, added a classic touch to the fleet. In CSA Class, Tim Sudells Grenada-based S&S 44 Saga won line honours but on corrected time Carriacou-based yachts dominated: Roy Hoppers Beneteau First 38 Windborne recorded a convincing victory, with my Hughes 38 Bloody Mary placing second. Three multihulls joined us this year. Featured as the battle of the cruising multisŽ, all at about 12 meters long, they sailed boat for boat. Surprising some, but not Irish owner Paul ORegan, the Wharram cat Stillus finished over 30 minutes in front of Dutchman Bram Van Dijks trimaran Bad Dog , with British Petra Kopps Joubert Nivelt cat Kayen two minutes behind in third place. The evenings celebration at the Lazy Turtle pizzeria featured free Mount Gay rum punch, courtesy of regatta sponsor Mount Gay who also provided a bottle of extra old rum for all competitors. Saturdays Island Water World-sponsored race started punctually, as do all races controlled by race officer James Benoit, who kindly came up from the Grenada Yacht Club once again to run the yacht regatta. This year, the strong south coast currents did not feature and the lighter winds gave crews the opportunity to appreciate the colours and surroundings offered by the south coast of Carriacou as nine boats raced between the scattered offshore islets. In CSA Class, once again Windborne sailed to a comfortable win over Bloody Mary and Saga , whose long lead gained by the enthusiastic young crew was destroyed by the handicap system. Tramontana beat Yellowbird into second and Sanctus into third. This evenings party was held between Twilight restaurant and the newly reconstructed Old Rum Shop, with entertainment from the Harvey Vale Drummers. As in previous years, Sunday was for watching the decked sloops race in the local boat regatta that the Carriacou Regatta Committee also run over this weekend. The light winds which were a feature of this day, were to continue through Monday. In Mondays race, sponsored by Budget Marine, again starting in Hillsborough, ten boats commenced in less than ten knots of wind. The occasional fiveminute hole to contend with made the day a little frustrating. Nonetheless, the pattern of results established over the previous two races remained „ CSA Class: Windborne, Bloody Mary and Saga ; and Fun Class: Tramontana, Yellowbird and Sanctus . The Carriacou Yacht Club provided the venue for prizegiving on Monday evening. Overall, it was no surprise that Windborne won CSA Class and Tramontana Fun Class „ in what proved to be a typically benign August weekend. This low-key regatta receives prizes from Mount Gay Rum, Doyle Offshore Sails, Budget Marine, Island Water World, The Round House Restaurant, Lumba Dive, Lazy Turtle Restaurant, Fidel Productions (Tshirts) and After Hours Supermarket. Logistical support was provided by Tyrrel Bay Yacht Haulout. Race officer James Benoit was assisted by Barbara Greenwood and Gus Pierre on the committee boat. The organizers give thanks to all. CARRIACOU REGATTA FESTIVAL 2007 Benign Race Weekend for Yachtsby Jerry Stewart Looks like fun! Yellowbird placed second overall in the Fun ClassCAROL EBERHART

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SEPTEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 17 Regatta-Time Benefit Breaks Record for Carriacou Kidsby Marjorie MowryThe LuckyŽ 7th Annual Carriacou Childrens Education Fund (CCEF) benefit, staged in Tyrrel Bay during Augusts Carriacou Regatta Festival 2007, was a runaway success. The benefits various fun „ and fundraising „ activities raised a record-breaking EC$16,152 (almost 30 percent over last years tally) to provide educational assistance to local school children. At this waypoint, over EC$60,000 has been contributed by yachtspeople and locals to the CCEF benefit, which was initiated during the 2000 Regatta by cruisers wishing to express their appreciation for Carriacous warm-hearted hospitality. Again, the lively CCEF Auction, held on August 3rd, proved to be the fundraisers highlight. A bumper-crop of auction inventory had already been stockpiled at the Carriacou Yacht Club during the year, thanks to the combined generosity of CYC management and visiting cruisers. Eclectic additions included original watercolor paintings, rare NASA memorabilia, a boatload of bakery treatsƒ even a seltzershooter! Magnanimous contributions from local businesses included a Tyrrel Bay Yacht Haulout package; scuba sessions from Arawak Divers; and gift certificates from Genevys Massage, Lambi Queen Restaurant, Pattys Deli, Lazy Turtle Pizzeria and Twilight Restaurant. An extraordinary and lucrative auction prize was volunteered by the hospitable owners of visiting Texas mega-yacht Champagne Cher : Their five-star party packageŽ of onboard brunch, bubbly and branded boatwear sparked a fierce bidding battle amongst a posse of fellow Lone Star cruisers. When the dust finally settled, a record high of over EC$11,000 had been bagged by veteran CCEF auctioneer Mike Jordan of yacht Rhumb Runner . A Bargain BilgeŽ sale, craft table, shoreside diversions and cash donations helped top up the kitty. This year, an expanded menu of Tyrrel Bay shoreside events was well-attended by islanders and an impressive diversity of international cruisers. At least 20 nations „ including Iceland, New Zealand, Ecuador, Thailand and the Philippines „ were represented by over 60 visiting vessels, which ranged from the humble home-brew to mega-yacht class. The fun and fundraising got off to a good start on August 1st at the 10th Annual Welcome Potluck hosted at the Carriacou Yacht Club. Organizer John Pompa honored the anniversary with a recap of the decades achievements and a presentation of commemorative plaques to longtime CCEF supporters. The evenings entertainment included a raucous guitar-and-banjo sing-along (thanks to pickers Steve Wolfson, Richard Haner and John Womack); plus a Dry T-Shirt ContestŽ (as opposed to the infamous wetŽ variety), in which sartorial sailors competed in Best Pirate-Wear,Ž Most Likely To Get You Arrested,Ž and Best Tall T-Shirt TaleŽ fashion categories. Happy HourŽ met the midnight hour as the camaraderie continued. Another crowd-pleaser, the Beach Fun Day, featured Arawak Divers Kayak Klassic, Dirty Potato-Sack Derby, Tipsy Tug-of-War, the hotly-contested Beer Chuggin Challenge, and an Underwater Treasure/Trash Hunt. Event entry fees, a dominoes tournament and book sales all contributed to the collection plate. Finally, Carriacou Yacht Clubs grand finale barbecue marked the end of a weeks worth of work and play. Hats off to hard-working volunteers from Arawak Divers, Cayuga, Dreamcatcher, Drisana, Horta, Liward, MLady Kathleen, Nomad, North Stand, Peregrine, Possible Dream and Second Millennium . Cruisers and local supporters presented the 2007 CCEF tally to Susan Peters, the Social Worker attached to the Ministry of Carriacou and Petite Martinique Affairs. Guided by Ms. Peters conscientious management, the Fund provides needy local children with school uniforms, textbooks, supplies and other educational assistance. CCEFs steady growth has also enabled the creation of two new initiatives: Meals from Keels,Ž a school lunch program; and a set of full scholarships to Carriacous T.A. Marryshow Community College. Since its inception, CCEF has provided educational assistance in over 400 qualified cases; its estimated that this years Fund can support another hundred or more. Although its our Lucky 7thŽ anniversary, good fortune has less to do with CCEFs ongoing success than the hard work, dedication, vision and generosity of its supporters. Congratulations go to organizers Melodye and John Pompa of yacht Second Millennium ; Carriacou Yacht Clubs owners and staff for their gracious hospitality; and managers of Tyrrel Bay Haul Out for their loyal support. Special thanks go to all sponsors, volunteers and participants, as well as cruisers who could only be present in spiritŽ through donations and cash pledges. CCEF volunteer Marjorie Mowry is cruising the Caribbean aboard S/V North Stand. Visiting cruisers and local supporters present a record-setting tally to Social Worker Susan Peters for the benefit of local schoolchildren

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SEPTEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 18 WALLILABOU ANCHORAGEWALLILABOU BAY HOTELVHF Ch 16 & 68(range limited by the hills) ... PORT OF ENTRY MOORING FACILITIES WATER, ICE, SHOWERS CARIBEE BATIK BOUTIQUE BAR AND RESTAURANT TOURS ARRANGED CREDIT CARDS ACCEPTED HAPPY HOUR 5-6 P.O. Box 851, St. Vincent & the Grenadines, West Indies. Tel: (784) 458-7270 Fax: (784) 457-9917 E-mail: wallanch@caribsurf.com Bequia has always been known for its superb natural harbour, Admiralty Bay. From Amerindian canoes thousands of years before Christ, to todays ferries and cargo vessels, it has provided a safe haven for boats of all sorts. Royal Navy officers wrote glowing reports of the harbour during the Napoleonic Wars. For yachts, it has been a favorite since Fritz Fenger island-hopped from Grenada to St. Thomas aboard the sailing canoe Yakaboo in 1911 and Carleton Mitchell cruised from Trinidad to Maryland on the 46-foot ketch Carib in 1946. In 1970, Don Street wrote in the Dukane Yachting Guide to the Grenadines , All true sailors love Bequiaƒ [it is] popular with yachtsmen as Admiralty Bay is an excellent anchorage in all weathers.Ž Douglas Pyle noted in his book about boatbuilding in the islands, Clean Sweet Wind , that Port Elizabeth, at the head of Admiralty Bay, was still an active schooner port in 1972ƒ.Ž The islands population is increasing, tourism has taken hold, development is taking place. Careened schooners, whaling tryworks and thatched huts have been replaced by villas, apartments and restaurants. And harbour front redevelopment has not been forgotten. Recently, Vincentian journalist Amal Thomas decided to look at a project in progress: refurbishment of the commercial wharf used by ferries and cargo ships. He got two exclusive interviews: one with Brent Bailey, a civil engineer, and the other with Johnny Ollivierre, Port Officer for the Grenadines Islands. Interviews on the Wharf by Amal Thomas On the 18th of June, I journeyed from St. Vincent to Bequia on the ferry M/V Admiral I . As the ship entered the harbour, I noticed workmen with equipment working studiously on the wharf. As I disembarked, I was greeted by Johnny Ollivierre. He then introduced me to the project manager, Brent Bailey. Mr. Bailey told me that he has had experience in port construction on a large project in Trinidad at Point Lisas, and this is his second time around on Bequia. This project started 11th May and is expected to finish 11th August 2007, at an estimated cost of EC$200,600. He then explained the reasons for the refurbishment: Firstly, the wharf was in a hazardous condition and people may not have known that. The exposure of steel, and the cracks, are a potential threat to lives and the environment. We saw the need to replace fenders on the wharves, preventing boats from hitting against the structure, replacing pile caps, bollards and concrete curves. All this will help to keep the wharf safe and able to withstand pressure. I think its a good project in the interest of people and the environment and its good that you can take the time to interview me.Ž I then targeted Johnny Ollivierre, who explained further about the project at hand: The work being carried out is on the wharf and the ferry ramp area. There are areas with damaged beams, and piles that are broken, and this weakens the deck infrastructure. So we decided on the replacement of piles, beams and fenders, making the wharf safe for vessels and lives.Ž I asked about plans for Admiralty Bay for the coming high season and Mr. Ollivierre replied, During the high season, we make sure the ship channel is clear of anchored yachts. And for the next season we are hoping to get an updated chart provided by the maritime agency showing where yachts, ferries and other vessels are supposed to dock or anchor. The authorities are organizing to purchase a vessel to oversee all the ports in the Grenadine Islands to make management more efficient.Ž As more commercial vessels use the port, I asked, What is going to be done with the ferry wharf when there are more boats?Ž Mr. Ollivierre told me, Well, it was built for four ferries and if theres any problem, they will have to rotate to allow a smooth flow. If problems still persist the authorities will step in and ask for cooperation.Ž Is there anything you would like to say in closing?Ž I asked. Well,Ž he said, I would like to say Bequia is moving to higher heights. I would also like to add that work on the Canouan jetty will be started soon after Bequia is finished. We also did some work on the Ashton jetty in Union Island, and that is completed. And there is another project coming soon, whenever the government is ready. This project is to give the harbour proper navigation aids, to control water taxis and yachts, and ensure safe zones for sea bathers. And a facelift will be given to the Port Elizabeth waterfront.Ž Belmars Waterfront Plan What will this facelift be? Under the auspices of Deputy Director for Grenadines Affairs, Herman Belmar, a project proposal has been drawn up for Bequias Harbour Front Development 2007Ž, which includes items of special interest to yachts using Admiralty Bay. The jetty located near the vegetable market is used by yachtsmen and fishermen, and sometimes as an entry point for cruise ship passengers. According to the project proposal, the jetty is not properly maintained and the area surrounding it needs to become ISPS (International Ship and Port Facility Security) code compliant. This could be accomplished, according to the proposal, by extending the fenced area around the ferry wharf to include the area at the foot of the jetty. The proposal also includes plans to install sheet piling and backfill along the existing rubble beach to provide bow or stern-to berths within the fenced area for small watercraft. Between the fence and the berths will be a seaside walkway leading from the jetty to the main wharf area. On the other, south, side of the wharf, the area around the popular public dinghy dock is slated for major enhancement. As this area, under the historic almond trees, is often the site for public events, for which stages must be erected and then disassembled each time, the proposal calls for construction of a permanent bandstand under a gazebo. The almond trees will be preserved. And as the market jetty would be within the new ISPS compliant zone, the ISPS-inspired chain-link and razor-wire fence currently at the foot of the dinghy dock could be removed. BEQUIAS WATERFRONT REFURBISHMENT WILFRED DEDERERROLAND MINDER Above: A proposal to upgrade Port Elizabeths waterfront includes new small-craft berths near the market (lower left) and a paved launching ramp for trailerable boats (upper right) Right: As Amal Thomas reports, work has already been done on the main commercial wharf

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SEPTEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 19 Your Expert Guide to Carriacous Best Diving Find us right in the town of Hillsborough! Phone/Fax (473) 443-7882 and VHF CH 16 scubamax@spiceisle.com www.scubamax.com €Daily dives at 9.30 am and 1.30 pm or individually €Air-Fills at PADI 5 * Standard €Scuba and Snorkel Gear Rental € PADI Courses from Beginner to Instructor & 15 Specialties in English & Deutsch €Rendezvous Service for Sailors at Hillsborough, Sandy Island & Tyrrel-Bay €Special Group Prices for Sailors INSTRUCTOR TRAINING Crossing the channels between Caribbean islands with a favorable tide will make your passage faster and more comfortable. The table below, courtesy Don Street, author of Streets Guides and compiler of Imray-Iolaire charts, which shows the time of the meridian passage (or zenith) of the moon for this and next month, will help you calculate the tides. Water, Don explains, generally tries to run toward the moon. The tide starts running to the east soon after moonrise, continues to run east until about an hour after the moon reaches its zenith (see TIME below) and then runs westward. From just after the moons setting to just after its nadir, the tide runs eastward; and from just after its nadir to soon after its rising, the tide runs westward. Times given are local. Note: the maximum tide is 3 or 4 days after the new and full moons. For more information, see Tides and CurrentsŽ on the back of all Imray Iolaire charts. Fair tides! MERIDIAN PASSAGE OF THE MOONSEPTEMBER & OCTOBER September 2007 DATE TIME 10300 20354 30452 40552 50653 60753 70849 80940 91028 101112 111154 121234(new) 131314 141355 151437 161522 171610 181700 191753 201847 211941 222034 232126 242216 252306 262356 270000(full) 280048 290142 300242 October 2007 10343 20446 30547 40645 50738 60826 70911 80953 91033 101113 111153(new) 121235 131319 141405 151455 161546 171639 181732 191823 201914 212002 222057 232141 242232 252326 260000(full) 270024 280126 290231 300335 310436 B & C FUELS ENTERPRISEWelcomes you to Petite MartiniqueA stepping stone as you cruise through St. Vincent, Grenada and the Grenadines. Come alongside our splendid jetty and replenish your supplies of FUEL, OIL, WATER and ICE at the cheapest prices in the Grenadines. Call sign: Golf SierraŽ VHF channel 16 For further information call Glenn Clement or Reynold Belmar. Tel/Fax: (473) 443-9110 New environmentally friendly haulout 50-ton hoist, 18ft beam, 8ft draftFuel Dock, WaterDo it yourself or labour availableMini MarinaChandlery Phone/Fax: 473.443.8175 VHF: 16 E-mail: tbyh@usa.net TYRREL BAY YACHT HAULOUTCARRIACOU Bikinis and Bow-Ties:A Boater's Weddingby Summer WestmanA birthday party at a beach bar in the Virgin Islands was interrupted when a slim, dark-haired girl climbed onto the gift table and called for silence. When all eyes were turned toward her, she announced, True love is not about finding someone you can live with, it is about finding someone you cant live without. So on Valentines Day I asked him and he said, Yes. Were getting married!Ž The celebrating friends „ and a few tourists „ cheered and demanded details. Where, when and what could they do to help? WhereŽ was to be on the beach at White Bay, Jost van Dyke, whenŽ was ten weeks away, and the list of things to do was promptly commandeered. The wedding couple, Michelle SmoŽ Smothers and Kevin MongoŽ Raymond, made their wishes plain: no muss, no fuss, all their friends would gather on the beach with them to witness their marriage and celebrate afterward. A simple beach barbecue would make these long-time St. Thomas residents happy. The groom figured about 30 people would show up; the bride knew that 30 people showed up for their birthday parties. Perhaps they needed to make a guest list and take a head count. Friends flew into action: reserving rooms at the Sandcastle, Perfect Pineapple, and Ivans on Jost; arranging for the barbecue at Gertrudes; and calculating the amount of champagne to buy (lots). The brides wishes were respected for the most part, except for one thing: her girlfriends insisted that she buy a new white bikini to wear at her wedding. Four friends dragged the shopping-phobic bride-to-be to the Bikini Store at Port of Sale Mall to buy one. The wedding day dawned clear and fair. Relatively flat seas allowed a hundred or so of the wedding couples closest friends to make the trip from neighboring islands and anchor their boats just off the beach. Guests waded or dinghied ashore, where they donned their black bow-ties, visited and drank champagne while eagerly anticipating the big event. Finally, the crowd quieted, the music started and the bride danced through a flowered arch down to the waters edge. Two tall friends carried her to the back of the boat where her fiancé and the minister waited. Family and friends „ and a few tourists „ gathered in the water and on the beach to witness the couple vow to love each other forever, and cheered when the minister pronounced them man and wife. It was just what they wanted. Capt. J. Summer Westman lives in St. Thomas, USVI, with her husband, Bill. When not out on their boat, Excellent Adventure , Summer writes boating articles and designs websites. Reach her at summervi@earthlink.net or www.livingbydesignvi.com.

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SEPTEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 20 Chain & Rope Anchors & Fenders Electric Wire Marine Hoses Bilge Pumps Lubricants & Oils Stainless Fasteners Stainless Fittings VHF Radios Flares & Life Jackets Snorkeling Equipment Fishing Gear Antifouling Paint Paint Brushes Epoxy Resins Sanding Paper & Discs Hand & Power Tools Houseware & CookwareFOR YOUR MARINE HARDWARE, AND MORE Johnson Hardware Ltd. Rodney Bay, St. Lucia Tel: ( 758 ) 452 0299 Fax: ( 758 ) 452 0311 e-mail: hardware@candw.lc In 1988 I read Gaylord Kelshalls interesting history of the Allied forces defeat of the German submarine offensive in the Caribbean during World War II. While in Trinidad recently, I sought him out. He is now curator of the Trinidad Military and Aero Space Museum, not far from the multitude of marinas and boatyards in the Chaguaramas area to the west of the capital, Port of Spain, and I went there one Monday afternoon to talk with him. He was sitting in his study in a house made of joined-up 40-foot steel containers. Ten metres in front of his verandah, the surprisingly clear waters of the Gulf of Paria lapped onto what was once the concrete ramp of a World War II seaplane base whose hangar still stood next door. After the pleasantries, I decided to start with a query about the base, where US forces were stationed during the War. It was the largest in Trinidad, wasnt it? No. They actually had 225 bases in Trinidad & Tobago during the war. The largest was Fort Read, in which Waller Field air base was located. Fort Read alone comprised 241 square miles.Ž If you asked him, Kelshall could probably tell you the names of all the commanding officers at the facilities. Among his personal library of 12,000 books, mostly on military history, are several the 67-year-old former Trinidad & Tobago Coast Guard pilot has himself authored, including the History of Aviation in Trinidad and Tobago . He is perhaps more widely known though, and certainly received more royalties than from any other book, for his book on the anti-submarine campaign. The U Boat War in the Caribbean (ISBN 976-8054-11-5), as it is titled, has been reprinted in the US and translated into German for sale in Europe. It is a seminal work. In February 1942, five German submarines (U-boatsŽ in popular terminology) were sent to the Caribbean area. The Allied forces (USA, UK, Commonwealth countries and USSR) were unprepared. The submarines wreaked havoc. By the end of that year, according to The U Boat War in the Caribbean, 36 percent of all worldwide merchant shipping losses had occurred in the Caribbean theatre. Three hundred and thirtyseven ships totaling 1.87 million tonnes were sent to the bottom. Many were laden with valuable oil and bauxite, war materials from Trinidad and British Guiana destined for Britain. But the Allies built up their forces, including stationing anti-submarine planes in Trinidad. By the end of 1943, the U-boat threat had been smashed. Kelshall chronicled this little-known theatre of the War through excellent research over a ten-year period that involved tapping the U-Boat Archives in Germany and the US Navy Historical Division. Kelshalls book is fascinating from another viewpoint: it speaks of the bravery and suffering of soldiers, regardless of which side they fought for. There was a need for Allied governments instilling of fervent patriotism during the War to maintain commitment and productivity and even sacrifice, as some of the exhortations on period posters in the museum reflect. He feels though, in retrospect, it is good for all to look at the side of the ordinary soldier of both sides. Kelshall insists that the German submarine service, despite having appalling casualties (32,000 of 40,000 enlisted perished), was not affected by a type of politicsŽ as was, perhaps, the German Army which included the fanatically murderous Nazi SS. These [submariners] were ordinary servicemen. Generally speaking, both the officers and rank-and-file sailors didnt believe in the Nazi thing, those who actively promoted Hitlers undemocratic, racist regime. There was only one German submarine captain, Heinz Eck, who was tried and executed after the War for machine-gunning survivors of a sunken ship,Ž said Kelshall. Along with monuments in the Museums yard to Allied servicemen and women, including Trinidadians (58 died in air force action alone), there is a smaller memorial (a large plaque really) to the German submariners. It was erected by German veterans who had reunions over the years at the Museum, in the same way Allied vets have their get-togethers. Though it may seem insensitive to some, it can in no way be compared, argues Kelshall, to the type of monument like the Yaksukini shrine which venerates the WW II Japanese armed forces, including war criminals, and which right-wing ultra-nationalist politicians use to try to revive militarism. A bust of the great South American Independence fighter, Francisco de Miranda, is also on the Museum compound, donated by the local Venezuelan Embassy. U-boats ranged as far as the Gulf of Mexico and the northern coast of South America during the war. Did the Germans ever come ashore in the Caribbean? Kelshall answers: I would say it was possible. There were many places where the home defence could not guard. But, strangely, they didnt commit any sabotage, such as blowing up a pipeline, in Trinidad. They did, however, shell oil facilities in Curaçao.Ž What of the story told of the German submariner who, when captured, was found with two ticket stubs to a Bridgetown, Barbados, cinema in his jacket pocket? A Captain Adden, the skipper of a Trinidad vessel, reported after the War that he was taken on board a German submarine and shown ticket stubs from the Globe cinema in Port of Spain and was told I recommend the show. Go and see it. But there are variations of the story in French Guiana, Curaçao and Barbados,Ž said Kelshall, who wondered if it really happened. Another story is that the U-boat skippers took on local seafarers, perhaps from isolated islands, to help guide the subs through dangerous and uncharted channels. Kelshall: ŽI have no evidence of that. What I do have is that they stopped at isolated islands to get fresh fruit.Ž Kelshall said the residents of the British territories, including then British Guiana, were committed to British rule. They served honourably, for example, in home defence units and overseas in Allied armies. For example, Kelshalls father, Ralph (who died in 1998), was Chief of Civil Defence in the southern Trinidad city of San Fernando and the surrounding environs in addition to serving as a sterling role model for his sons in instilling from an early age a lifelong interest in military history. Among the duties of home guard and civil defence was to ferret out German spies, several of whom were nabbed, including the head of the SS office in Caracas, Venezuela. German nationals were also rounded up and detained. People at the time had a feeling they belonged to something, to the home country, the British Empire. They were very patriotic. This is reflected in the lyrics of the calypsos at the time.Ž Kelshall sees the maritime dimension of his Museum as an important one. He laments the dearth of maritime artifacts locally with very few historic boats of yesterday, for example, preserved. One exception is the yacht Humming Bird II, in which his countrymen Harold and Kwailan La Borde circumnavigated the world, the first Trinidadians to do so. A local archaeology group has dived on a Spanish galleon wreck in coastal waters, Among the items recovered are pieces of eightŽ, silver coins, and blocks and cordage, which are in the Museum. Still writing everything long hand (Dont know how to use the computer „ I let my secretary handle that,Ž he says), Kelshall looks over the Gulf of Paria waters as I leave. He is daydreaming. Perhaps of the time when the harbour was full of cargo boats, destroyers, and tankers waiting to set off in convoy to the UK. And as we shake hands until next time, there is a glance below to the still serviceable concrete ramp from where the armed seaplanes once departed to see the ships safely off. Norman Faria, Compasss man in Barbados, recently vacationed in Trinidad. Next month: Changing Times at the Mission for SeafarersŽ. CARIBBEAN MARITIME HISTORY Were There Submariners at the Cinema?by Norman FariaGaylord Kelshall of Trinidad researched this little-known theatre of the Second World War This map from Kelshalls book on the U-Boat War shows shipping losses in the Caribbean during 1942-1943PARIA PUBLISHING CO LTD

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SEPTEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 21 UNIQUE IN DOMINICA SITUATED IN THE CITY OF ROSEAUCapitainerie Tel: +7672752851 Fax: +7674487701 VHF: 16 Working CH: 19 info@dominicamarinecenter.com www.dominicamarinecenter.com€ Dinghy Bar € Fuel (Marine Diesel) / Water at the dock € Dinghy dock € Nearby laundry service € Secured moorings € Night security € Ice & Provisioning (Grocery store) € Bakery € Clean restrooms and showers € Garbage disposal € Telephone & internet WIFI connection € Yacht chandlery agents of Budget Marine & soon Mercury Marine € Light boat repair and cleaning € Activity desk (Tours, diving and water sport activities) € Visa / Master Card accepted For Yvonne and me the biggest dangers of Trinidad and Tobago are the people. Thats right, the people who tell you not to go there! Throughout our cruising in the Windward chain we have met many new friends and spoken to numerous people in the local hangouts. We discuss our current cruising grounds and our plans for the future. Many so-called cruisers told us Dont go to TrinidadŽ or You need to lock everything everywhereŽ or On your own head be itŽ. It annoys me when people spread this scaremongering. If you have been to Trinidad or Tobago and have some useful criticism or advice, great „ we can all benefit. But many of the dont go theresŽ havent been there themselves. Theyve gotten their alleged factsŽ from other dont go theresŽ; theyve read reports on websites that tell us of the dinghy theft and the robbery. They forget to say (or maybe dont notice) that these events have taken place spread over five or six years. I read one report from a well-known writer and cruiser that said south of Antigua is dangerous, the exception being BequiaŽ. Id like to share experiences of our short visit to the wonderful twin-island state of Trinidad & Tobago and its people. Ill briefly speak of our visit to Tobago because there was a lovely article about Tobago in the July 2007 issue of Compass . Our daughter Susie booked a flight for herself and her boyfriend to join us in Tobago. Wed not seen them since we left Spain. Yvonne and I sailed south from Grenada at the end of June for Trinidad (we had a watermaker problem and the makers are there). We arrived in Scotland Bay and spent the night there prior to going into Chaguaramas. What a wonderful entry into a new country! Scotland Bay was like being in a creek in the jungle surrounded by parrots, pelicans and vultures. The coastline at Chaguaramas is superb. On arrival at the Customs dock, we cleared in and explained our situation to the Customs officers. We had already arranged for the repair of our watermaker, so we knew we would only be in Trinidad for one night before heading off to Charlotteville in Tobago. Customs were so helpful, clearing us in and explaining that they would need to sign and stamp our departure the following day and that upon arrival at Charlotteville wed present that same paper to Customs who in turn stamp and sign it. On departure from Tobago wed get it stamped again. So no problems there, and no charge. We arrived in Charlotteville two days later, having motorsailed from Chaguaramas to Gran Riviere on Trinidads northeast coast to overnight and get a better shot at Tobago. This worked well and we had a good daysail north past Store Bay right up to Charlottesville, arriving at 3:00PM. The following day, after having our papers stamped by Customs, we sailed back south to Store Bay to anchor and wait for our daughter and her boyfriend. Yvonne and I dinghied ashore and walked to the airport. After all the hugs and kisses, we grabbed their bags and walked down the road to the beach, stopping for a couple of cold ones on route, of course. Our dinghy isnt the biggest in the world so we made two runs out to Chaser II . What a way to start a holiday!Ž they both said. A fortnight goes only too quickly so Yvonne and I were keen to show our guests as much as possible of Tobago; it was new to us as well. Store Bay is the commercial end of the island, though hardly Las Vegas, but there were a couple of hotels and a fast-food joint, together with some lovely restaurants. During our travels we stopped in Buccoo Bay, Mount Irvine, Plymouth Bay, Castara Bay, Englishmans Bay and Charlotteville. We also took a maxi to Scarborough and toured the falls and rainforest. The highlights for us were Mount Irvine Bay, Castara Bay and Charlotteville. All the guide books tell us of Charlotteville and it is truly charming, as are the local people we met, Streetly and Hilda to name two, a lovely old couple. However, Castara Bay, little mentioned in our Doyle BibleŽ, was probably our favorite, followed closely by Mount Irvine and Englishmans Bay. Castara Bay has local charm, beautiful beaches and amazing snorkeling „ the best weve seen on our travels so far. Restaurants are quaint, charming and inexpensive. The Cascreole restaurant is right on the beach. Its in the Bible, but the Bible fails to mention the separate bar and snooker room, which is huge, with four pool tables and one table tennis table. Its well-used too, by local people, holidaymakers and cruisers alike. Dont get me wrong; it wasnt heaving, it wasnt noisy, nor was there any of the bad behavior, violence or bad language that often frequents these places. It sure is a lovely place to spend an evening. In fact, we spent three nights in Castara Bay. Once we had a very good late local meal in Loris and Hazels restaurant (L&H). In the morning we bought some supplies: bread, rum, beer „ you know, the kind of things you need when youre on holiday. The bakery was a treat: a large clay oven in a field behind the Cascreole Restaurant. Just tell the lady your needs and shell have it for you in an hour, if she hasnt baked it already. Our family time was over quickly. While waiting with our daughter at the airport, we asked Customs if they would mind stamping and signing our piece of paper rather than us having to bus back to Charlottesville. The officer in charge sat us down, got out his rubber stamp and pen, asked us a couple of questions (like, Have you had an enjoyable stay?Ž), then told us to have a good voyage. Excellent! So that is our brief insight into Tobago. We walked the streets at night, no hassle, no muggings; in fact we never even chained the dinghy. Were we just lucky? I dont think so. So on to Trinidad. Having spent just the two nights or so there previously, Yvonne and I were really looking forward to returning and exploring what appeared to be a lovely country. Lets get the crime thing out of the way first. Trinidad has 1.3 million people concentrated in a relatively small area. Of course there is crime, some is drug related, but you get that throughout the world. Yvonne and I live in Spain, a beautiful country, but it too has its share of murders, thefts and muggings. So you dont walk some of the streets at night, you lock anything that you leave in what one would consider a dodgyŽ area. Now, Chaser II is in Chaguaramas at Powerboats Marina, our first real marina for many months. As usual, we need to give some money to the local businesses in exchange for some services. They have all been prompt, efficient and the quality of the work very good. Weve walked from one marina to another visiting the sailmakers, chandlers, supermarkets and once or twice the on-site bars and restaurants. If you dont want to walk and cant use your dinghy, YSATT provide a shuttle boat and for TT$5 (less than US$1) itll take you from one place to another. Just call on VHF 68. From a marina and service-centre point of view, Chaguaramas has all you could wish for and more, more being Jesse James at Members Only taxi service. Jesses business is to cater for cruisers, and what a service he offers! Hell arrange sightseeing tours, shopping trips, market tours, turtle-watching, dentists, you name it. He even arranged our yellow-fever jabs. Not that Yvonne and I need help, but it certainly makes our stay here run smoother. We like the tours, help and advice, but we also like to do our own thing and Jesse can even advise how we can do that! Maxi buses stop right outside the marina gates. In fact theyll stop anywhere if you put your arm out, or even if you dont, if the bus is half empty! Several times we jumped on a maxi to a shopping mall or supermarket down the road, or to go to Port of Spain, a bustling city with good stores and history. The bus drivers were all polite and the passengers all say good morning as they get on. You dont get that in the UK! Weve met some very nice people during our stay here. Some are expats whove lived here for many years, like Richard and Sue of Dockyard Electronics at CrewsInn; a great service they provide, too. And theres Michael, the chairman of Powerboats Marina, who has offered to take us for a tour and lime around some of the small local islands. So listen up all you dont go theresŽ. In our opinion, Tobago is a lovely place with beautiful beaches, and Trinidad is the best island for services we have traveled to so far. If we have a problem here, Ill write and let you know. Hopefully we wont, but it can happen anywhere. So if any cruisers out there are considering coming to Trinidad, DO IT! Im sure you wont be disappointed. Yvonne and I are glad we came. We wish we could stay longer, but we have commitments in Venezuela, another dont go thereŽ place. I only hope it is as nice there as it is here in Trinidad. In fact our plans constantly change, and we are now thinking that if we survive the turbulence of Venezuela, the drug runners of Colombia, the Panama pirates, the communists in Cuba and the voodoo in Haiti, well probably come back south to Trinidad „ unless of course, we find somewhere even nicer, before returning to our home in Spain and a Mediterranean cruise. Viva Trinidad and Tobago! The Dangers of Trinidad & Tobago by Phil Chapman What, me worry? Not in tranquil Tobagoƒ

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SEPTEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 22 Cuba, which we cruised in May and June 2007, is the safest country we have ever been in. We had gentle winds all along the Cuban coast, often able to sail wing-and-wing with the genoa poled out and the spinnaker sheeted to the main boom. The people are poor but most generous; everyone we met wanted to give us something or feed us as we wandered the country. Truly a wonderful experience. My wife, Yvonne, and I sailed our 1978vintage Endeavour 43 ketch, Australia 31, from Jamaica, arriving at Santiago de Cuba on the southeast coast. Entering the narrow harbour, we headed for the marina. We never use marinas, but Cuba insists we use them wherever available. Luckily, there are only four on the south coast. However, they were very secure and we left our boat often to travel inland. Wait, the authorities are coming,Ž the marina manager told us in perfect English. Come they did, for the rest of the day. About 30 in all. We began to see how many public servants Cuba has. We were boarded by three doctors with assistants; health, veterinary and plant quarantine personnel; etcetera. Customs brought two beautiful sniffer dogs aboard. When I produced my camera, I was told that photos were forbidden but finally I was allowed just one picture of the great Labrador who gallivanted excitedly inside our boat. „Continued on next page D D D D E E E E S S S S T T T T I I I I N N N N A A A A T T T T I I I I O O O O N N N N S S S S Cuba :Fair Winds and Friendly Facesby Bernie Katchor Main photo: The anchorage at Baracoa. Founded in 1511, the settlement was originally called Villa Nuestra Señora de la Asunción de Baracoa by its founder, Diego Velásquez Inset: Australia 31 at Cienfuegos, where we left her safely to tour inland

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SEPTEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 23 Horizon Yacht Management . . . a dedicated private management service.Antigua Grenada St. Martin 268 562 4725 473 439 1000 599 544 3329 info@antiguahorizon.com horizonyachts@spiceisle.com horizonsxm@gmail.com Authorized dealers Secure Moorings & Dockage Routine Maintenance Technical Installations New and Used Yacht Brokerage Full Service Marinas Professional DeliveryThree great locations, one great management service www.horizonyachtmanagement.com www.horizon-yacht-sales.com Horizon Yacht Management „Continued from previous page I must add that everyone here, unlike all other countries where wed been boarded by officialdom, took off their shoes and walked our decks barefooted (except for one who donned cotton operating theatre shoes over his old boots). On and on they came, all delightful people, doing the job as best they could, apologizing for the intrusion, then sitting and sipping the cool drinks we offered before inviting us to their houses or offering advice on what to do and where to go in their district. Some boaties whine and say they keep losing days because of the authorities, but we enjoyed them. Santiago de Cuba was our major check-in port. At other stops, the officials would row out to us in a fishermans dinghy to check passports and visas. Again, they were always polite. In one case, they told us we could not come ashore directly, but suggested we go to a port of entry 40 miles away then come to their village by hire car to see the magnificent lighthouse. I offered to tow them the mile or so back to shore (so I could photograph this structure) but my devious plan was foiled as this was forbidden, and they paddled away in the overloaded dinghy, bailing as they went. The currency the tourist uses, and Cubans use for all luxury items, is CUCŽ „ convertible pesos. Luxury items include soap, shampoo and clothing for example. The CUC shops were stocked with goods ranging from refrigerators and TVs (both seemed subsidized) to toys and foods considered luxury, such as pasta and tinned foods. One CUC equals one US dollar, or currently 24 Cuban pesos. Soap costs one CUC, so a Cuban must take 24 Cuban pesos (eight percent of an average monthly salary) to a government money changer to get the CUC to buy soap. In one of the tiny villages we anchored off, a woman burst into tears after we gave her a cake of soap. She was a fisherperson and traded her catch for stuff she needed: pork, vegetables, etcetera, and had not seen a CUC for years. Soap is the most wonderful gift you could have given me,Ž she cried as she showered us with coffee, cake and fish. You can buy CUC from the money changers, but if you tender US dollars, they are devalued by 20 percent. We had Euros, which are taxed only two and a half percent when changed. At Santiago de Cuba, after all the authorities had inspected us, our vegetables, our tinned food, our music CDs, the inside of each drawer and cupboard, we were free to enjoy Cuba. We walked to the bus stop, where a horse and cart awaited. We were armed with some Cuban pesos someone gave us in Colombia. One CUC,Ž the man holding the reins asked. But that lady paid five centavos; why should we pay 120 times as much?Ž The fare for foreigners is one CUC, while the fare for Cubans is five centavos. If I am inspected, as I often am, and cannot show CUC when I have foreigners aboard this government-owned transport, I will be put in jail.Ž We explained we had no other money as we had just arrived and were heading to a bank. He told us to hold the money until we were getting off and hopefully at that time no one would see us and ask him to show CUC, as he had none. A woman aboard saved the day by asking for 26 pesos for the CUC she offered. All aboard chastised her for asking too much and we were ordered by those gathered to give her 50, as she passed two CUC to the man at the reins. This was a lesson in Cuban sociology, as no one complained while this ten-minute transaction and discussion took place „ they just waited. Public transport is very unreliable, except for buses that carry tourists. Often on the country roads, we saw hundreds of people waiting for a bus that did not come. Private transport is uncommon in the Cuban countryside. When we had a hire car, people waved CUC as we passed, trying to get a lift. Clipping and clopping towards the town centre was an adventure in itself as we talked to the six other passengers about markets and moneychangers. When I produced my camera, they ordered the cart stopped while I alighted to photograph the waving passengers. The town was clean and had a wide pedestrian street crowded with shoppers and controlled groups of tourists. Ice cream, at five Cuban pesos, was my first purchase. The line was long, as the chocolate ice on a stick had just arrived. We learnt to buy what we saw when we saw it. No point coming back later, as it would be sold out. We found a travel agency and Yvonne, a bird-watcher, organized a car and driver to take us to her beloved birds. This was expensive and in CUC, but anything for tourists is not cheap by our standards. A guide was compulsory and ours held a doctorate in biology, and several other degrees. We soon learnt that many highly qualified people turn to tourism as a guide or taxi driver, because a US$5 tip is half a months salary. Our guide was exceptional and found a Bee Hummingbird for us to see, the smallest bird in the world. Cuba has many endemic species and Yvonne was delighted with each birding expedition. „Continued on page 37 Above: Some luxury items may be in short supply in Cuba, but not cigars Right: At some stops, officials would row out to us in a fishermans dinghy to check passports and visas. I offered to tow them back to shore but this was forbidden

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SEPTEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 24 Nevis is a land of wonderful tropical trails. You can walk through the rainforest on a carpet of fine grass growing over small cobblestones laid in the 1700s. Masked in the shadows under the canopy and behind the shroud of green, you catch glimpses of the sugarcane fields and cisterns of long ago. The air is still and cool and only disturbed by the sounds of chirping birds and the call of a monkey. The peaceful silence allows the imagination to run wild, envisioning horse-drawn carts burdened with piles of sugarcane on their way to the mill. We arrived on Nevis somewhat skeptical of what we would find. We had only heard of it in passing from another cruiser, who said he preferred to anchor at Nevis and travel to St. Kitts by ferry. We selected this option, as we favored the winds and weather by sailing on the east side of St. Kitts rather than the traditional west side. This route took us through The Narrows passage between St. Kitts and Nevis. We soon arrived at our planned anchorage in Nevis, at the south end of Pinneys Beach, which proved to be secluded, sheltered from the south and beautiful. There is a long sandy beach extending for three and a half miles to the north. Along the south end of the beach is a plantation of tall palms fronted by a rich, green shrub windbreak. In the background is the towering Mount Nevis with her peak shrouded in cloud. When Columbus first saw it he thought it looked like snow and named it Our Lady of the SnowsŽ „ Nuestra Señora de las Nieves „ and from that grew the name Nevis. The anchorage proved, through our four days on the hook, to be one of the kindest and most beautiful we have experienced so far. Only five minutes to the south at the commercial dock is a dinghy dock lined with automobile tires. Leaving our dinghy chained to a tire, any fear of dinghy theft was immediately dispelled for at the end of the dock was a public market and square where we were greeted by friendly, smiling faces. We had a sense that wed have no worries about crime while on Nevis. What a refreshing change, especially after our first few days in St. Maarten, where 15 boat break-ins had occurred in one week. „Continued on next page Nevis Ð A Gentle Walk on the Wild Side by Bill Bate ALL ASHOREƒ Above: The view from our anchorage of Nevis Peak; its unusual to see it not shrouded in clouds Left: The welcoming Charlestown waterfront is clean and colorful The Botanical Garden of Nevis, where, although it was dry season, we found wonderment at every turn ALL PHOTOS: BATE

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SEPTEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 25„Continued from previous page As we entered the town we felt like we had gone back in time. The buildings had been perfectly restored and preserved. This was pleasing to the eye and confusing to the mind, as the only evidence of this modern age was the flow of automobiles. What a great entry to a new island for us and a pleasant surprise. No pushy cabbies and no hucksters flogging wares greeted us. People just went about their business, but taking the time to give us a glance and a greeting. Our first day was a day of discovery which meant visiting the tourist office, conveniently located on Main Street next to the post office and near the dinghy landing. We explored the downtown area and found the sidewalks narrow or non-existent. We just copied the locals as they negotiated the traffic on the streets. At one point there was a pick-up truck stopped on the street and from the back the driver was selling a load of bright yellow honeydew melons. Locals were gathered around and he was passing out samples. We also had a sample and purchased the juicy, sweet fruit. Also, to our delight, we paid the same price as the locals. Back at our boat it didnt take long to start investigating what else Nevis offered, as our first day was completely delightful. The information obtained from the tourist board office revealed an island that has taken great care to preserve the evidence of their past and maintain the natural beauty of their island. (Guess what, no garbage strewn around.) Among the main island attractions are the preserved sugar mills whose towers can be easily seen from a distance. On Day 2 we caught a local bus from Charlestown to a side road leading to Golden Rock Estate, a sugar plantation dating back to 1801. A fine quality resort has replaced the crude sugar refining equipment, and a 50-foot, mountain-spring-fed swimming pool was originally built as a cistern. This resort has been managed since 1975 by Pam Huggins Barry, a direct descendent of the original owner. The management encourages artists and eco-minded tourists to enjoy their resort. For hiking, there are marked nature trails which wind their way through the plantation grounds and up Mount Nevis to the top. Another choice is a shorter 30-minute route through the plantation, which has been consumed by the rainforest. If exploring on these trails from mid-afternoon onward you are highly likely to spot wild African Green (Vervet) monkeys. The monkeys occupying the forested plantation grounds are nourished by mango trees which are in abundance. We arrived at the plantation around noon and were greeted by Pam Huggins Barry who provided us with maps and intriguing stories about the plantations past. Before heading out to hike, we had lunch, enjoying a delicious carrot soup and a cold beer in the outdoor restaurant. The menu suggested high quality cuisine choices with moderate prices. The peace and quiet allowed us to focus on the beautiful gardens and lush tropical surroundings. With great anticipation we set out, with a hand-drawn map provided by Pam, along a rainforest trail marked Upper Round Road with hope of seeing the monkeys. The trail marker is a black circle and has a triangle with a U in the center. This road runs midway up Mount Nevis and was the interconnecting road around the mountain for the sugar plantations built in the late 1600s. This trail follows the contour of the mountain and though designed to carry heavy carts, with a bedding of smooth round stones carpeted in short grasses, it makes for excellent walking, biking and horseback riding. It can take up to five hours to cover the nine-mile trek of the complete road; however, our trek was but a short section of it giving us a sample of the pure magic of this ancient road through the rainforest. Here we spotted at close range a Green Monkey who stopped momentarily on the road and looked at us in as much surprise as we looked at it. Then in a single leap it went over the embankment and disappeared into the forest. We exited the forest, taking a short-cut back to town on a residential road. Reaching the main road, we hailed a bus and rode back to the main dinghy dock. Day 3 began with another visit to the tourist board office to ask whether the Botanical Gardens were open. The tourist office phoned them and confirmed they were. Learning we were cruisers, the staff in the tourist board office became enthusiastic and informed us that the islanders are very serious about developing the island as a cruising stop. They then introduced us to the Nevis Air and Sea Ports Authority General Manager, Spencer Hanley. Mr. Hanley informed us that beginning in August 2007 they would commence the progressive installation of 100 moorings for yachts up to 60 feet. The moorings will run along the west coast of the island from Oualie Beach to Charlestown (including Pinneys Beach). In addition there will be a designated area for mega-yacht moorings. They will also be improving their dinghy dock and providing cruisers services such as showers, internet access, laundry services and water. Full boatmaintenance services are being planned for the future. We then visited a rustic mineral-spring bath facility which is a 15-minute walk from the dinghy dock. Located above the spring are the remains of a hotel dating back to 1778. The mineral-rich spring, with a faint sulphur odor, is believed to contain healing qualities. A large concrete bath and a natural spring-fed creek which runs alongside the Bath House are both available for public use at no charge. We tested the waters and they were comfortably warm. To reach the Botanical Gardens you can take a bus to the road access, followed by a one-mile walk. We arrived to find ourselves the only visitors. As it was July, at the end of the dry season, the flora and fauna was burned by the sun and only the hardiest flowers were in bloom. There was still interest and wonderment at every turn. During the moist months, this property (according to photos) transforms into a tropical wonderland of lush colors and textures. The Botanical Gardens are known for their unique variety of orchids. A one-half mile trek up the road led us to the Montpelier Estate. On the left side of the road is a very large, old, silk cotton tree where the British naval hero Lord Nelson married Fanny Nisbet, a beautiful Nevisian widow, in 1787. (Imagine a tree living that long.) A short jaunt up the road was the sugar mill for the plantation which has been converted into a luxurious resort. We were free to roam the grounds and house properties. We found them all very interesting, inviting and well-preserved including many photos and paintings dating back to the 18th century. We hiked back to the main road where we caught a bus to Charlestown for EC$2.50 each. (Taxis are also available for all locations.) On Day 4 we took one of the hourly ferries which run between Charlestown and Basseterre, the capital of St. Kitts. The one-way fare per person was US$8 for the ferry and EC$1 for the port tax. The crossing took about one hour on the Sea Hustler , though the faster Carib Surf cat ferry takes only 35 minutes for the same price. (We came back on Carib Surf .) We explored Basseterres downtown area, which included a dressed-up cruise ship dock facility and town square called Circus, fashioned after Londons Piccadilly Circus. Changing gears from the romantic Nevis to the metropolitan area of St. Kitts, we found ourselves hurrying along to the bus depot by the harbour. From there we caught a bus marked Sandy PointŽ heading north along the coast road to Brimstone Hill Fortress. The ride was a shock as the bus drivers maneuver their vehicles as though they were in a Grand Prix race, completely ignoring road speed limits and any measure of safety. We found ourselves tense, white-knuckled and totally uncomfortable although the locals appeared relaxed. This gave us some confidence that the buses actually reach their destination. The climb to the fort is a mile and a quarter up a paved, steep and narrow winding road. Taking our time, we reached the fort in about 40 minutes. On the way up we stopped at a fascinating lime kiln which was apparently built in the 1700s to manufacture lime for the mortar used in building the fortress. This kiln is a large stone cauldron with fire pits around the base and steps leading to the top for loading. It was amazing to see the quality of the construction and to imagine labourers carting containers of limestone or coral to dump into the cauldron. These are things we have never seen before in our travels as in most locations time has destroyed the evidence of the engineering tools of the past. This gave us even more excitement about what we would find at the top of the hill. The name Brimstone is well suited as the fortress is built on an 800-foot volcanic dome which still emits a slight sulfurous odor. The fort tour cost US$8 each plus an optional single cost of US$5 for an audio guide of the site which we highly recommend. Though recognized by the world as one of the best preserved 18th century military architectural accomplishments, we found the fort more interesting from the point of view that it was a military assignment designed to protect Britains sugar interest on the island which was threatened by France. Around the fort in all directions lie the remains of sugar plantations including current sugarcane fields. The site is in excellent condition considering its age. Arriving back in the city we were quick to get to the ferry dock and catch the first ferry back to the tranquility of Nevis. The contrast between the two islands is dramatic and we found ourselves longing for the beautiful anchorage where our floating home was waiting. On the way, as we passed our anchorage about a half mile offshore, we spotted a bright yellow dinghy adrift. It appeared to be our neighbouring yachts dinghy (as no other yacht in the area that we were aware of had a yellow dinghy). We decided we would recover the dinghy for our neighbour, so as soon as we got off the ferry we hopped into our dinghy and headed straight for it. Our neighbours later explained they had left the dinghy on the beach and the tide and wind had drifted it away. They were pleased to recover it. Our four days spent in this anchorage provided some of the most peaceful, interesting and eco-centered adventures weve come across since leaving the Bahamas. We cannot help but think that cruisers who sail right on by Nevis are missing one of the cruising lifes best-kept secrets. It truly is a walk on the wild side where man has kept the wild preserved and safe. Bill and Bev Bate are cruising the Caribbean aboard S/V El Shaddai. Above: At Golden Rock Estate we were greeted by Pam Huggins Barry, a descendant of the original owner Taking a ferry to St. Kitts one day, we toured the 18th century Brimstone fortress

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SEPTEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 26 Okaou BoutiqueSouvenirs, Craft,Tee Shirts, Pareos, Bathing suits, Furniture and moreƒ Tel: (784) 458 8316 Bougainvilla@vincysurf .comSeaquarium Restaurant & BarSeafood specialties, Live lobsters (Sept to Apr), Bar, Pizzeria, Pool, Table Games and its Giant Aquarium Res: VHF 16, Tel: (784) 458 8311 Seaquarium@vincysurf.comThe DockWater Station, Dockage, Watertaxi, Ice (Blocks & Cubes), Bakery (French bread) Res: VHF 16, Tel: (784) 458 8878 windandsea@vincysurf.comWind and SeaDay Charter, Mayreau,Tobago Cays, Palm Island, Mopion Res: VHF 16, Tel: (784) 458 8878 windandsea@vincysurf.com BougainvillaUnion Island We sailed to Errol Flynn Marina in Port Antonio, Jamaica, from Santiago de Cuba near the end of January 2007. The rugged setting is lush, tropical jungle with towering, mountains in the background. My husband, Bill, and I drank in the breathtaking beauty as we approached. The marina is a wonderful, modern facility with helpful, efficient staff and skilled workers to take care of your boating needs. We stayed on a mooring ball for US$10 a night (US$7 a night for long term), with free wireless. We learned that actor Errol Flynn, famous for starring in pirate movies such as the 1935 Captain BloodŽ, first came here to Portland parish in 1946 when inclement weather ran his yacht ashore. He was so impressed with the place he made his home here. One day we took our dinghy and explored Navy Island, across from the marina, which was previously owned by Errol Flynn. As we munched on our brown-bag lunch in the breezeway of his former home, now in decay and consumed by time, we imagined him entertaining a host of famous Hollywood types, like Bette Davis and Ginger Rogers, in elegant style. Port Antonio Port Antonio is an active little town, a bit rugged and for the most part unscathed by tourists. The open market, with an abundant variety of stalls with fresh produce, souvenirs, wood carvings, music and even meat is bustling every day of the week except Sunday, when the town virtually shuts down. When the sun goes down, other vendors set up charcoal fires and the aroma of sizzling jerk-seasoned pork and chicken drifts over the market area. Free samples are offered, tempting the taste buds to want more. Despite our enjoyment of hot and spicyŽ their jerk seasoning was a little over the top for us. The promenade leading from the marina along the waterfront, thoughtfully planted and well groomed, was a favorite place for us and the locals to go for a stroll, or to sit and visit on the many benches along the way. The ice cream parlor with multiple flavors attracts non-stop traffic. Jamaicas reputation for high crime was quickly dispelled in Port Antonio. We felt so secure we left our boat on a mooring ball for five weeks while we returned to Canada. (The only other country we have traveled where we would have felt safe doing that was Cuba.) Rafting on the Rio Grande We asked other boaters for their recommendations on sights to see from Port Antonio. The top item on everyones list was a rafting trip down the Rio Grande. We arranged with friends on S/V Oasis to go together. The taxi ride was along winding, narrow roads through remote villages. Houses were perched precariously on mountainsides among the lush vegetation. In about 30 minutes we reached the check-in point where we were assigned two separate handcrafted bamboo rafts with captains (US$48 per raft). Albert Harley, our captain, took particular care by arranging fresh-cut flowers in the cup holders on the raft and having an umbrella available in case of rain. None of the other rafts displayed such TLC. He had been guiding rafts along the Rio Grande for the past 20 years. Although we didnt realize it at the time, passengers can request specific captains for the trip. We would highly recommend Captain Albert. We sat in the bamboo seat as Albert guided the raft by standing at the front of it poling his way along the river over calm waters, small rapids, shallow and deeper sections. The scenery was spectacular with towering mountainsides covered in thick jungle foliage in a mass of varying shades of green and dotted with red, white and purple flowers. The peace and tranquility was awesome. Along the way we spotted some men dragging rafts up the river on foot. Apparently there is an initiation period where all potential captains spend about two years doing this. It looked like a long and arduous task pushing against the current but theyd sure get to know the river intimately. About halfway along the route we stopped for a lunch break and a chance to take a refreshing dip in the river. We had no deadlines to meet so were happy to enjoy all the perks along the way. The bathroom facility was a squat in the bush. A pleasant, cheerful lady, Belinda, prepared lunch over an open fire: fried chicken, dumplings, bok choy, peas and rice, breadfruit, and ackee and saltfish (the national dish). Belinda does preliminary preparation at home before carrying her load of food on foot about one hour to the river. She then boards a raft that ferries her to the other side. From there she hikes another 20 minutes or so to the lunch spot. At the end of her day her pots are stashed in the bushes nearby as it is physically impossible for her to cart everything home each day. She inherited and learned from her mother how to do the business. The care and attention Belinda put into the meal and the variety of spices and seasonings including onions, thyme, jerk sauce, allspice, salt/pepper, was amazing. „Continued on next page ALL ASHOREƒ Exploring Jamaica from Port Antonioby Bev Bate Above: Sweeping Long Bay is popular with surfers, but this day there were none in sight Below: Everyones number-one outing „ rafting on the Rio Grande

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SEPTEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 27 Contact John Louis € 876-715-6044 € 876-873-4412 e-mail: info@errolflyn nmarina.com€VHF Channel 16 www.errolflynnmarina.com Navigating the good life Out of the Water Storage Up to 95 FeetThe only 100-ton travel lift in this part of the Caribbean, servicing yachts up to 95' in length.PROTECT YOUR INVESTMENT ON THE WATER THIS HURRICANE SEASONFull Service Marina100 Ton Travel-lift24 Hour FuelPaint ShedsEngine and Part SpecialistsDuty Free Zone in MarinaProtected HarborDepth Up to 25 Feet at Face DockOpen Air Market 1 Minute by FootDowntown Nightlife24 Hour Security Gated MarinaRestaurant,Beach Bar & Grille Introducing the NEWErrol Flynn Marina & BoatyardPORT ANTONIO,JAMAICA „Continued from previous page A friend of Belindas arrived on foot carrying a load of refreshments in a basket on her head: beer, soft and fruit drinks. We had the most delectable, truly authentic Jamaican meal we experienced during our entire stay. The rest of the ride was filled with a mixture of rain and sun but remained beautiful. We saw egrets, white and blue herons and vultures along the way. Albert not only guided the raft skillfully but also sang songs such as the famous Jamaica FarewellŽ as we glided along. The boat captains rely on tips and in our case the service was first class. Boston Jerk and Long Bay One day we took a route taxi to Ferry Hill where we had an appointment at a local school to learn about the education system and the needs of the school. Afterwards we walked along the road a short distance, stopping briefly at picturesque Winnifred Beach which showed signs of being a public area in the past but is now vacated in preparation for development. Not far beyond is Jamaicas world-famous Boston Jerk barbecue center. Several vendors had rustic lean-tos where they prepared and served jerk-seasoned chicken and pork. We had a tasty lunch, but we werent convinced it was worthy of the title Jamaicas bestŽ. Catching another route taxi, we continued along the scenic coast to Long Bay. The beautiful beach was practically deserted. The pristine turquoise waters and large surf make it a popular hangout for surfers, however, that day there were none in sight. We walked along the beach and marveled at the beauty and privacy we enjoyed. Reach Falls and Blue Lagoon Another day our destination was Reach Falls. We took a route taxi to the turnoff where another route taxi was waiting for a fare to the falls. We considered walking but the climb was long, winding and steep and we chose to ride. Reach Falls is a tourist destination and very commercialized. The admission was US$15. The scenery was spectacular, with Reach Falls set in a rainforest with several cascading falls tumbling over limestone rock formations. A guide is available to guard your belongings and to assist tourists wishing to climb from one side to the other,over the top of the falls. He patiently helps plant ones feet to ensure a solid grip. We swam in the pool, enjoyed the cool, refreshing water and visited with other tourists. When we emerged we expected a route taxi would probably be waiting to take tourists to the bottom. This was not to be, so we began the long descent on foot to the main road. Going down was not that difficult and we enjoyed stopping along the way, taking photos of the awesome scenery with the misty Blue Mountains in the background. We stopped frequently and chatted with locals, including a man doing woodcarving. He invited us to view his room full of beautifully handcrafted carvings where I spotted Jesus and Buddha sitting side by side on a table. On the return trip we stopped at the Blue Lagoon for a quick look. The Blue Lagoon (known as the Blue Hole by the locals) was made famous by the movie Blue LagoonŽ starring Brooke Shields, which was filmed there, and by Jacques Cousteau who did a 52meter dive. It is fed by freshwater springs and displays every imaginable color of blue, emerald green and turquoise throughout the day. We learned that the Blue Lagoon has recently been purchased and future development planned. Next month, Bev and Bill moor at Turtle Bay and continue their exploration of Jamaica. Above: Jamaicas famous chefs du jerk concoct a tasty barbecue Left: We also dined at Errol Flynns homeƒ but the house is romantically derelict and we brought our own picnic

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SEPTEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 28 Barefoot Yacht Charters& Marine CentreBlue Lagoon, St.Vincent & the GrenadinesSt.Vincents Best Full Service Facility for Visiting YachtsmenRaymarine ElectronicsPADI Dive ShopRestaurant, Bar, dinghy dockSurfshop Watersports Centre BoutiqueInternet Café Fax and weather serviceSpare parts ordering Apartment Doyle Barefoot the only sail repair loft in St. Vincent professional sail, bimini & dodger repairs at great pricesBareboat & Crewed Charters ASA Sailing SchoolTel:(784) 456-9526 Fax:(784) 456-9238 E-mail: barebum@caribsurf.com http://www.barefootyachts.com PORTHOLE RESTAURANT & BAR& Shoreline Mini-MarketA friendly atmosphere where you can sit and meet people.Admiralty Bay, Bequia Noelina & Lennox Taylor welcome you! VHF CH68 Phone (784) 458-3458 We serve breakfast, lunch and dinner We left Prickly Bay, Grenada, before dawn, heading for Venezuelas offshore islands of Los Testigos, and made excellent progress under mizzen and genoa. The equatorial current sped us onwards all day and was sweeping through Los Testigos at a good three knots as we made our way to Breakthrough Bay, where we dropped anchor for the night. The palm trees and sandy beach tempted us to stay, but we didnt want to inflate and launch the dinghy just in order to check in with the Guardia Nacional. Their office on Isla Iguana was three miles away; three miles against wind and current would be no small undertaking in the dinghy. Instead we set sail at dawn the following morning for Isla Margarita. We reached the anchorage at Porlamar in the afternoon. Behind the high-rise blocks that line the shore, the sun was shining over the mountains. A few white clouds clung to the summits. Pelicans, boobies and frigate birds paraded through the air or perched precariously on our pulpit. There were some 60 yachts anchored in Porlamar Bay. The water boat and the fuel boat wandered amongst the yachts with cries of Agua?Ž or Diesel?Ž This was our fourth visit to Venezuela and we were delighted to be back. Next morning we listened to the local VHF radio cruisers netŽ. There were no security problems. CJ gave an excellent weather forecast. Going ashore, we were greeted on the dinghy dock by a big Venezuelan in a straw hat. He took our line and our bag of rubbish with a welcoming smile and a Buenos dias Ž. The marina owner, Juan Baro, who is also an agent for Customs and Immigration, took our papers and passports, which he returned to us later that day together with a cruising permit. The cost was about US$56 including his own fee. He also exchanged a quantity of dollars for Venezuelan Bolivars at what certainly seemed to me to be a good rate. We then sat outside his office, listening to the strains of Mozart over his speaker system to await the shoppers bus. The bus runs to a giant out-of-town supermarket and shopping mall. There are unbelievable bargains in beers, wines and spirits and excellent value Argentinean steak and almost every variety of groceries. Perhaps a few items on our shopping list might be out of stock. (This time „ in the spring of 2007 „ they had no tinned sardines and no tonics. Last year they had been short of coffee. They never seem to stock wholemeal bread flour or ginger ale.) We forget any shortcomings when we see the fruit and veg area which is piled high with mountains of pineapples, passionfruit, bananas, plantains and almost every vegetable I could wish for. Avocados and mangoes were nearly as big as rugby balls. I certainly hadnt seen such variety and quality since we left Trinidad in November 2006 to cruise the Grenadines and Grenada. We reached the checkout with a couple of seriously overladen trolleys. Paying our bill, some furious mental arithmetic confirmed that the hundreds of thousands of Bolivars that we had been charged for groceries amounted, in pounds sterling, to less than half of what I might expect to pay back in the UK. Wine, also, was about half British prices; beer and spirits were barely ten percent. It was then that the full merits of the shoppers bus service became apparent as our purchases were taken over by a polite young man who packed everything into boxes. He couldnt have been more careful. Nothing soft or vulnerable was placed where it might get squashed; the box containing eggs was marked eggs/huevosŽ so that neither English nor Spanish speakers could make any mistake. Every box was numbered and the young man then took the whole lot away, leaving us free to wander round the shopping mall or to visit the cafeteria. The bus departed at one oclock back to Juans dinghy dock. There our boxes reappeared like magic to be unloaded, identified and sorted for us. The bus run is free, provided by the supermarket; but one is expected to tip the box handlers. An adequate tip for a good service is part of Venezuelan custom. In the past, yachtsmen who might have spent the equivalent of a couple of hundred US dollars or more in the supermarket often only used to give a few cents as tip. Nowadays, Juan insists on a minimum tip of US$1 per person. As our pile amounted to 11 large boxes, such a tip seemed barely adequate. The man with the straw hat now appeared on the scene with a big barrow on which he offered to trundle our purchases to the far end of the dinghy dock. He would also help to load the dinghy if needed. Again, the customary tip is expected, but where else in the Caribbean would one get such friendly, helpful and unassuming service? When prices ashore are no more than a fraction of what one would pay up the island chain, it is only reasonable that a tiny part of the profits are passed on in return for such valuable assistance. The tide was low, and there was less than two feet of water at the dinghy dock. An even shallower sand bar lay a short distance offshore where small waves would develop into breakers. A bit of careful navigation, timing and luck would be needed if we were to keep the contents of our overladen dinghy dry. But we made it safely back to Skybird and Alan heaved the heavy boxes up onto the deck. I hastily stowed the more vulnerable items into the fridge and we opened a bottle of wine. Margarita is an anomaly. Porlamar is a concrete jungle of high-rise hotels and apartment blocks. Some are in use; a few are partly built and apparently abandoned. The largest of all is the empty shell of what had once been a luxury hotel, closed since a disastrous fire some 17 years ago. In any gaps amongst the highrises are the shantytown dwellings of the Venezuelan poor. Here, empty plastic bags line the roadsides and small children play amongst the rubbish. It is not unusual to see a young man scouring through the contents of a rubbish skip in search of empty beer cans to sell for scrap. Small wonder that there is a certain element of crime coupled with such poverty. It is also commonplace to see heavily-armed police wandering round the streets and in the shops. Venezuelan crime exists. But it has also become the subject of much exaggeration. A fleet of between 50 and 100 visiting yachts regularly anchors in Porlamar. Many yachts stay for months and return year after year. Relative to these numbers I dont think there are any more incidents in Porlamar than in many other anchorages in the Caribbean. True, we are all advised to lift our dinghy without fail every night. And true, there are certain no goŽ areas ashore. Would not the same be true for many seaside towns the world over? At the same time I dont wish to underestimate the problem. I could name at least five excellent Venezuelan anchorages which we have ourselves visited over the years but which we have decided not to visit this year due solely to reported incidents. Even in past years we have never dared to explore much of the mainland coast and have always stood well clear of the Paria Peninsula. After a few days, once we had our fill of retail therapy in Porlamar, with our lockers loaded with whisky and wine and our veg nets and fridge filled to bursting, we set sail without delay. Our next destination was another Venezuelan offshore island, but a very different one. Next month: Splendid isolation at Isla Blanquilla. Skybirds Final Caribbean Season:PROVISIONING AT PORLAMARby Mary Robinson An overnight stop at Breakthrough Bay in Los Testigos broke the trip from Grenada and allowed us to rest up for a big shopping spree in Porlamar Our Advertisers Support the Compassƒ Please Support Them.

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SEPTEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 29 Call Ron Cooper (727) 3675004 € www.coopermarine.com CATAMARANS NEW 63 SAIL CAT SEATING FOR 90 PASSENGERSNEW€ 63 x 24 Power Cat USCG Stability test for 149 PAX € Available as single or double deck € Fast delivery € Twin Diesel Base Price $299,000 AVAILABLEFORIMMEDIATEDELIVERY All new Offshore 53 catamaran Twin diesel, 49 passengers, Base price $199,000 CREW V ACANCIES! email: info@tradewindscruiseclub.comTradeWinds Cruise Club operate a fleet of catamarans across six destinations in the Caribbean. We are the fastest growing charter company, operating TERM CHARTERS, all inclusive, 7 days. We are looking for crew, mainly teams in the form of a Captain and a Chef/Hostess. We prefer couples that are married OR have been living together for at least a year. The nature of the job is such that the better the understanding and teamwork between Captain and Chef the more successful your charters will be. Requirements: Captain with a Skipper’s licence. Chef/Hostess with a basic understanding of cooking. Dive master/ instructor for either the Captain and/or Chef is a plus. We offer full training onsite in the Caribbean. This is a FUN job with great earning potential. If you are willing to work hard and have a positive disposition to life this could be your DREAM job. Anyone with an interest is welcome to apply. If you would like more information about this job or send your CV to us, please use this email address: info@tradewindscruiseclub.com or by mail to: Bequia Marina, P.O.Box 194, Port Elizabeth, Bequia, St Vincent & the Grenadines Tel. St Vincent +784 457 3407 Tel. St Maarten +599 5510550 Caribbean Yachting B. J. IncYACHT CHARTERS, BROKERAGE, SERVICES, RACESST. LUCIA, RODNEY BAY MARINATEL: (758) 458 4430 FAX: (758) 452 0742Beneteau 41S592 $ 90 000Princess 50 $ 550 000 Jeanneau 35 03 $ 90 000 Lagoon Cata 55S $ 590 000 Nauticat 52 84 E 230 000 63Ž Catamaran $ 800 000 Beneteau 50 01 $ 219 000 House Boat $50 000 Van der Stadt 46 $ 75 000 35Ž Racing Extreme$50 000 Wauquiez 38 $ 75 000 Beneteau 411 from $ 115 000 Beneteau 38S5 $ 75 000 Jeanneau 45.2 from $ 145 000BAREBOAT, RACE, CREWED CHARTERS … REPAIRS, EXOTIC MATERIALS AGENT FOR NEW JEANNEAU YACHTSWWW.CARIBBEANYACHTINGBJ.COM Read in Next Months Compass :Up Guyanas Essequibo River by Steamer Why Boats and Bees Dont Mix Whats New for Yachts in Grenada ƒ and more! Ihave come to the conclusion that I might be addicted to boat shopping. Having just made a jaunt out of Panama through Costa Rica, Nicaragua, Honduras, San Salvador and into Guatemala and the Rio Dulce and returned boatless Im getting slightly uneasy. One danger sign is that I liked lying back on a squishy bus seat, with twice the room of economy class on a plane, and a foot rest. I liked having a pillow tucked under my head and a soft blanket thrown over me, new movies shown to me, and no squally night watches. I liked having a charming young man peeling grapes for me (let a woman have her fantasies, will you?) after serving me food and beverages. Most of all I liked Customs and Immigration coming to ME! I didnt even have to get out of my seat. Then there are all the reunions as I keep meeting up with old friends. In every anchorage there are parties waiting. Plus, boat shopping is a great way to make new friends and see new places. I am having a ball. And I get to spend my days exploring other peoples boats. There might be another problem. I might know too much about boats. I can do the arithmetic of putting a boat right in my head as I just glance around. When I bought my first boat I was a believer. When the owner showed me the green gasoline-driven monster in the narrow dark cave and said What do you need an engine for anyway? Its a sailboat,Ž I thought, Hes got a point.Ž Duh! God looks after drunks, fools, sailors and first-time boat buyers and I was probably all four. My first boat was a gem and it fitted me like a glove. I am no longer a first-time buyer, and Im savvy when it comes to boats., Ive been for ashore for nine months so Im not sure I even qualify as a sailor. That only leaves one out of four. I think that I might be on my own on this one. The boats are entertainment in their own right. Take this one. The ad said Yanmar engine. I like Yanmar engines because I am familiar with them. On board I found a Yanmar prototype dating from 1066. It didnt bear any resemblance to todays engines. The 20-something French male owner had thoughtfully left starting instructions that went something like this: Open the seacock, put in neutral and crank like hell. This time I am not exaggerating. I am female, weigh 110 pounds, and am nearer 70 than 20 so I thought that particular boat might be a tad ambitious for me. The next one advertised that it was ready to go to sea, everything was included; all I had to do was step on board. There were a couple of minor oversights; Ill mention just a few. The foredeck was sort of sprung, like a trampoline, a lightning strike had taken out the advertised autopilot, GPS and VHF, and when the mast had been restepped, they had forgotten to hook up the electrics. Then there was the sexy Fiji ketch with tan sails that I fell seriously in lust with, only to find it was being eaten from the inside out by termites and the owner wouldnt accept my offer, which perhaps was a blessing. I also found a pretty, but decrepit, pilot cutter where I would have had to lean over the boomkin to haul up the outboard that drove it, a maneuver which the young male owner, this time Italian, admitted periodically defeated him. One owner showed me over his boat himself and he talked so fast and so loud that I was reeling around like a cartoon character by the time I got off. All I can remember is that he kept repeating that the boat had lots of Stuff‘ and that most of the Stuff appeared to be rusty. A beautiful Tartan almost seduced me until the owner admitted that the gasoline engine was a bit of a problem because it had seized up when he got water in the oil. I wasnt too keen on the fact that the gasoline tank was under a berth in the salon, either, and he was rigid on a price that didnt reflect the minor inconveniences of shipping a new engine in to a remote location. Maybe Im just a tad too fussy or, more likely, I just dont have enough money for a boat that I really want. What do I want? Just an old fibreglass boat thats pretty enough to make me swoon, with rigging that isnt about to fall down, a long keel, a tiller, perhaps a neat little Yanmar and some nice woodwork. A windvane steering system and tan sails would clinch the deal. Is that too much to ask for US$10,000? I promise Id cuddle it every night. Sailor and writer Julia Bartlett has done extensive research on subjects as diverse as port rot, pets aboard and Caribbean hurricane holes. She can be contacted at juliamary2000@yahoo.com.BOATLESS IN PARADISEby Julia Bartlett THIS CRUISING LIFE There might be another problem. I might know too much about boats

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SEPTEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 30 SEPTEMBER 2007Crossword Solution ACROSS 1) BOAT 3) TAIL 6) LOOSE 8) OF 11) CATTING 14) CLAWS 15) SO 16) WIND 18) LEE 19) HOOKS 22) EVEN 23) ABEAM 25) CAT THE 26) GUT 29) IDLE 33) AT 34) PURCHASE 35) RATS 37) TOM 38) HOLES 40) PILOT 41) ROPE 43) O NINE TAILS 45) SAND 46) ROW 47) ODE DOWN 1) BLOCKS 2) SEA 3) TACKLES 4) LOT 5) RIG 6) LASH 7) OLD WIFE 9) FISH 10) HARPINGS 12) THE ANCHOR 13) NOOK 17) NORM 20) KNEE 21) CATHEAD 24) AND 27) SET 28) LAP 30) LARBOARD 31) FALL 32) STOPPER 36) SHIPS 38) HEAD 39) SKIN 42) PAW 44) TO ARIES (21 Mar 20 Apr) Your sense of humor will help you afloat in dealings with argumentative crew or cruising pals. Dont get your sails aback at how silly it all is. TAURUS (21 Apr 21 May) A female crewmember or buddy-boater will be emotionally high maintenance and demanding of attention in the second half of the month. GEMINI (22 May 21 Jun) This will be a good time to patch the sails in any misunderstandings with crew. You may be in for a pleasant surprise after the 5th. CANCER (22 Jun 23 Jul) Misunderstandings may cause choppy conditions most of the month, but in the last week, insight into the problem will be like oil on the waters. LEO (24 Jul 23 Aug) Your love life will seem to be in irons until the 9th, when good times and romance sail your way. VIRGO (24 Aug 23 Sep) Your renowned attention to detail in business will be the right sail to hoist on the 3rd. With creativity in your sign now, you should be able to use this aspect to chart any course you want. LIBRA (24 Sep 23 Oct) This will be a good time to review and clear up any imbalances that have remained from the past few months, and get everything back on an even keel. SCORPIO (24 Oct 22 Nov) You may find contrary currents in love this month, especially after the 9th. Try to maintain your sense of humor and not be too picky with your mate. SAGITTARIUS (23 Nov 21 Dec) While male crew or cruising companions will seem to resist everything you ask, the females will be helpful and stimulating, especially after the 9th. CAPRICORN (22 Dec 20 Jan) Youll be feeling a rising tide of creativity, so take the opportunity to develop new ways to deal with difficult problems left unsolved until now. AQUARIUS(21 Jan 19 Feb) This will be a month of verbal opposition and garbled communications. The last half of the month will be the most trying. Unplug the radio and get out the signal flags. PISCES (20 Feb 20 Mar) You will have romantic rough seas and could end up on the rocks. But remember that every ending brings a new beginning.Island Poets Irie MemberGhosting along, outward bound from the Bocas, slipping by iridescent Grenadine shores, with a cargo of Angostura bitters, casked rums, cayenne and cocoa beans. Ocean currents leave feathery, foaming traces among inshore reefs, home to the violet-black Negrita. Far out at sea, in the Islas de Barlovento, summer squalls loose sparkling showers from slanting, slate-coloured virga. A passing pirogue Named Dignité , crimson like a Caco bird, fishes peacefully, gently rocking, dipping to the swell. Wha hoppenin dere, mon?Ž the owner shouts. While farther out, the weekly Geest-boat arrives with the dawn, seeking green gold. Sliding past a sea-graped shore where, under leaning, wind-swept palms, amongst tangled mangroves standing proud on a jungled shore, a boats a-building „ a new generation, to replace these tired old timbers of aged Acajou. „ Nicholas LeeDINGHIES TODAYWhizzing through the anchorage, Why do you drive so fast? Have you a pressing engagement? Whats the difference between this life and your last? If you drive more slowly, You have time to stop and say hello, To watch the turtles bobbing up, See the myriad shades of blue below! To look at all the different boats, And ponder whence they came, To see their national flags and wonder The derivation of their names. So why not drive more slowly, Chat and wave to cruisers new. Or better still lift your engine And row „ its good for you! „ Susie Stanhope

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SEPTEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 31 CompassCruising CrosswordSubscribe to the Caribbean Compass On-line!www.caribbeancompass.com 1 2 3456 7 8 910 11 12 1314 15 1617 1819 20 21 222324 25 2627 28 29 30 313233 34 3536 37 383940 41 42 4344 45 4647 parlumps marooned CATSACROSS1) Cat ____: beamy yacht with only one sail 3) Cat ____: inner part of 21 Down 6) Let go 8) What oŽ means in 42 Across 11) Act of heaving anchor with 1 Down and 3 Down 14) What cat does off lee shore? 15) Order to quit hauling on a 40 Across 16) Breeze or wrap 18) Downwind side 19) Catch anchor rings with cat____ 22) Catamarans sit on an ____ keel 23) At right angle to the vessels length 25) ___ ___ anchor with 1 Down and 3 Down (2 words) 26) Cat___: a tough cord used in music, sports and surgery 29) Someone taking a cat nap is this 33) What cat and rat have in common 34) Mechanism that increases force applied 35) Ships cats prey 37) Male ships cat 38) Cat _____: spaces in the quarter for springlines 40) Book of sailing directions 41) Cat-back-____: line for hauling 19 Across 43) Cat _ ____ _____: whip (3 words) 45) Litter box filler 46) Use oars 47) ____ to a CatŽ: poemDOWN1) Cat ______: rollers that pull anchor on board 2) ___ cat; Caribbean name for octopus 3) 1 Down and _______ 4) Crews allowance 5) Cat ___: single mast carried well forward, often with gaff 6) Small cord forming cat 42 Across 7) Triggerfish (2 words) 9) Cats favorite food 10) Cat_____: short ropes taking up slack in shrouds 12) Cat or raise ___ ______ (2 words) 13) Corner where cat sleeps? 17) It is the ____ for catamarans to be beamy 20) Support for 21 Down 21) This suspends anchor clear of the bow 24) A cat ___ mouse game 27) Make sure the anchor is this 28) Cat ___: slang for weak tea 30) Port 31) Cat ____: rope rove for 34 Across to raise anchor 32) Rope or chain woven through anchor ring 36) _____ cat: vessels rodent hunter 38) Where a ships toilet is located 39) Outer hull planking 42) Cats ____: ruffled surface of water caused by puff 44) Word with broach, heave or stern rare +exotic arts + crafts interior designyoung street st. georges grenada tel: 440-2310e-mail: fisher@caribsurf.comJewelry, Wooden-Ware & Hammocks Flyingfish Ventures Ltd Marine Surveyors, Grenada Marine Survey throughout the CaribbeanPURCHASE – INSURANCE DAMAGEBob GoodchildAccredited Marine Surveyor Society of Accredited Marine Surveyors RYAOcean Yachtmaster (Commercial) Accreditation American Boat and Yacht CouncilTel:Grenada (+1 473) 407 4388 surveyor@flyingfishventures.com Please Recycle this Paper ©Caribbean Compass 2007 „ Solution on page 30

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SEPTEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 32 Lets continue our look at fish farming. Perhaps one of the most unusual marine creatures farmed for human consumption is the puffer fish (hedgehog or porcupine fish in the Caribbean). There are many different types of puffer fish worldwide, ranging in size from a few inches to over two feet but they all have the same defence mechanism. The skin of a puffer fish is very tough, has no scales and is covered with spines. When the puffer fish is in danger, it gulps water into its body so that it swells up like a prickly balloon. This makes it difficult for a predator to catch hold of it. The puffer fish also has a mouth which is strong enough to bite off a finger! So, why is this strange fish so much in demand? The puffer fish is called fugu in Japan. It is a delicacy at certain Japanese restaurants which is surprising because parts of the puffer fish are very poisonous. The liver in particular contains a deadly toxin called tetrodoxin. A tiny amount of this poison paralyses muscles and causes respiratory arrest. There is no known antidote. In Japan, the government has regulations on who can prepare and serve fugu so that no one dies by mistake! When puffer fish are spawning, there may be more poison in their bodies, so fugu is served mostly outside of the reproductive season. Japanese fishermen who catch the puffers when the price is low often keep them in cages in the sea until the price rises. Fish kept this way turned out to be less poisonous than wild puffers. Researchers at Nagasaki University bred some puffer fish in captivity and altered their usual diet of crabs, shellfish and starfish. Their puffers turned out to have no poison at all. The demand for fugu led the Japanese to raise puffers on fish farms because the farmed fish are less of a risk to the consumer. However, there have been reports of chemicals added to purify the water there which may actually be harmful to humans. Still, whatever the risk, fugu continues to be an expensive but attractive option for gourmet diners. By the way, when the tetrodoxin is very diluted, it can be used as a painkiller for rheumatism and arthritis.ELAINE OLLIVIERRE 2007 © PROUDLY SPONSORED BY PETIT ST. VINCENT RESORT Hello!MynameisDollyandmyhomeisinthesea.DOLLYS DEEP SECRETSby Elaine Ollivierre An Ocean to Cross: Daring the Atlantic, Claiming a New Life , by Liz Fordred. McGraw-Hill, ©2001. Paperback, 272 pages, ISBN: 0071373942 Dont Kill the Cow Too Quick: An Englishmans Adventures Homesteading in Panama ‘ by Malcolm Henderson. Iuniverse Inc, ©2004, paperback, 230 pages, ISBN 10: 0595319491 Last month I read two stunning books that are different in many ways but they are both true stories, both are told with heart-warming honesty without a trace of self pity and I will never forget either of them. The first, An Ocean to Cross: Daring the Atlantic, Claiming a New Life , is written by Liz Fordred who built a boat with her husband, Pete, and then sailed it from South Africa to Florida. That on its own is quite a feat but consider doing it when neither partner has the use of their body from the chest down. It perhaps takes someone who has spent time in a boatyard to get near appreciating the difficulties a wheelchair must present. Then imagine coping with a storm at sea, getting to the head, being seasick and getting in and out of a dinghy. The obstacles they met were not just physical, they were financial, emotional and social, such as the blatant prejudice from authorities who wanted to veto the project by refusing to allow them to go to sea after all their hard work. That was contrasted by the hard work and support of friends and family: food just appearing on the dock, a small donation arriving by mail every month from an old lady they never met, and the selfless sharing of knowledge, expertise and time from other sailors. The yacht was built in Lizs mothers garden. Parts that had taken months to complete had to be sawn off on its way to the ocean and it was dropped before making it into the water. This is truly an inspiring story that moved me to tears more than once, and I have sincerely promised myself that I will never take my legs „ sea, or land „ for granted again. The other book, Dont Kill The Cow Too Quick , by Malcolm Henderson, is the story of a retired English art dealer starting to homestead on one of the islands in Bocas Del Toro on the Caribbean coast of Panama. Why would boaters be interested in this book? Boats are an essential part of life in the Bocas and the stories Malcolm tells about learning the art of boating are hilarious; I could identify with more than one of them. One night, about midnight, I was rolling around in bed, doubled up with laughter and with tears rolling down my face unable to put the book down. The next day I got some queer looks from my Panamanian neighbours. Perhaps they thought that I had snuck a man into my apartment. There is a percentage of cruisers who are quietly on the lookout for that special slice of paradise where they could settle when they move ashore again, and this book captures exactly the sort of learning experience they can expect. I have heard similar stories from other sources but Malcolm tells them with a charming honesty and all the jokes are at his own expense, reminiscent of James Herriots style in his famous vet books. He paints wonderful pictures of what it is really like to live immersed in a Caribbean culture on a small island. If you are looking for a quiet life, dont do it! I had a blind dateŽ with Malcolm one night because he wants to buy a larger version of the cat boat he already has and a mutual friend recommended that he ask my advice about sailing it from Carolina to Panama. At 75, Malcolm looks 60 and his enthusiasm for life permeates every page of his book. I wish he would find time to write another. Both books are available from Amazon.com. BOOK REVIEWS BY JULIA BARTLETT MEETING CHALLENGES

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SEPTEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 33 MAC'S PIZZERIAIn addition to our famous pizza we offer seasonal specialties and fresh baked goods. Open from 11:00am to 10:00pm. Closed on MondaysSituated in Admiralty Bay, Bequia between the Frangipani and Plantation House. For Reservations: VHF Ch68 or Tel: (784) 458 3474 Buccaneers Buccaneers vs. Pirates vs. PiratesIn Search of the Buccaneers , by Anthony Gambrill ©2007. Macmillan Caribbean. Hardback, 258 pages, with illustrations, maps, glossary, index, and bibliography. ISBN: 978-0-333-97652-4. Anthony Gambrill has been interested in buccaneers since obtaining a rare copy of Alexander Exquemelins Bucaniers of America , published in 1684. He has lived in Jamaica for 50 years and is chairman of a large advertising agency; in 1998 he received his Masters degree in History. Mr. Gambrill has created a thoroughly researched and beautifully illustrated text covering the glory days of the buccaneers, from 1630-1700. He posits that the buccaneers (whose name derived from their practice of smoking meat over a wooden barbecue grill, or boucan ) were not pirates, though their exploits „ such as raping, pillaging, and plundering „ came perilously close to piracy. The difference, and it is a fine legal one, was that the boucaniers were mercenaries who were usually (but not always) engaged in state-sanctioned terrorism against their enemies. Furthermore, the buccaneers experimented with a form of democracy a century before Thomas Jefferson. This allowed the Dutch, French, and English buccaneers to ally in sacking Spanish cities in the Caribbean. The buccaneers six decades of success and eventual dissolution ultimately led to the encouragement of greater colonization in the West Indies by Spains European rivals. After Columbus, Spain ruthlessly pursued the New Worlds gold, silver, sugar and dyes; they outlawed colonization by their rivals, and even trading with other European powers was forbidden. This was as unenforceable as it was impractical, and rogue traders from other nations found markets for their goods with Spanish merchants. French pirates and privateersŽ (those with Royal sanction) such as Hawkins and Drake attacked Spanish settlements with gusto in the 16th century, forcing Spain to fortify its ports. As the mineral-rich mainland settlements at Vera Cruz, Cartagena, Portobello and Nombre de Dios drew colonists away from Santo Domingo, many farms in Western Hispaniola (Haiti) were abandoned and their livestock roamed the countryside. In 1605 a Spanish decree was issued to abandon all remaining haciendas in Western Hispaniola, since the Crown couldnt afford to defend them. Owners were ordered to move to the city of Santo Domingo, which was heavily fortified. The boucaniers were frontiersmen living off the wild cattle and pigs from these abandoned Spanish settlements on the north and west coasts of Haiti. Rough and rugged, they honed their marksmanship skills by hunting, and they survived by trading meat and skins for gunpowder and shot, living in camps much like the indigenous Taino Indians. They cured their meat over open fires on raised sticks of lignum vitae , lived in conical huts held up by a centre pole, and slept in hammocks. Their members consisted of shipwrecked sailors, deserters, English and French colonists escaping religious persecution or Spanish retribution, former indentured servants, freed slaves, and even a few Indians. They were not averse to taking Spanish ships as prizes, which they originally attacked from dories, until they became a nascent naval power. As their numbers increased, the Spanish tried to wipe them out. This forced them to pool their resources and develop leaders and plans for their common defense. Eventually, many made the two-mile journey to the island of Tortuga, off Haitis north coast, to get farther away from their Spanish tormentors and built a defensible port. Tortuga before 1630 had so many wild hogs that it was called the Island of Pigs ( Lisle de Porceaux ). Some of the settlers were English colonists from Nevis who had been displaced by the Spanish attack there in 1629. Tortuga became the first colony in America not governed by a colonial power. Alas, the experiment in democracy was unsuccessful as the English and French settlers fought, and in their weakness they were attacked again by the Spanish. Eventually Jean LeVasseur was appointed governor, but once in power he became a despot solely interested in amassing a fortune. A fort was built overlooking the harbour, and LeVasseur reigned like a king for 12 years. The English buccaneers, meanwhile, had joined the armies of General Venables and Admiral William Penn (the father of the founder of Philadelphia) in 1655 and taken the island of Jamaica from Spain. Port Royal, the capital, became the Sodom and Gomorrah of the western world and the base for such notable leaders of English buccaneers as Christopher Myngs, Edward Mansfield and Henry Morgan. As governor of Jamaica, Sir Thomas Modyford sold commissionsŽ, or letters of marque, for 20 pounds each, legally allowing buccaneer captains to pillage Spanish ships and towns so long as the Crown got its cut „ 16.66 percent. Meanwhile, on board the buccaneers ships, captains could be voted out if they lost favour with their crew, and the crews pay was strictly determined by a percentage of the booty obtained (no purchase, no payŽ or no prey, no payŽ), after expenses. Morgans looting of Portobello, Panama, in 1668 netted his crew „ over 700 men on 12 ships „ a massive 120 pounds per person, while his more daring feat of taking Maracaibo, Venezuela, in 1669 netted a crewman only 30 pounds. This money was generally squandered on drink and women in Port Royal, whose purveyors were the great beneficiaries, but merchants and other colonists were also positively affected by the sudden influx of such great wealth. The marvelous cover art of In Search of the Buccaneers depicts such a debauched scene and is taken from a French painting that now hangs in the Marine Museum in Paris. The chapters of this book describe the buccaneers campaigns geographically, rather than chronologically, and are mind-bogglingly comprehensive in describing the various Dutch, French, English and Spanish leaders, governors, admirals and captains of the day. It is a little confusing to be backtracking in time during some chapters, but the number and range of hostilities reported lead one to conclude life was not easy for the early colonists, who were constantly being preyed upon by agents of hostile nations as well as being victims of smallpox, yellow fever, dysentery and tuberculosis. The buccaneers story ends around 1700, although piracy flourished for another half century and has continued to this day. By the 18th century the buccaneers type of legalized piracy was considered counterproductive by their rulers in Europe „ the galleons of Spanish gold and silver were in decline, and peace briefly flourished among the old adversaries. Instead of bringing in wealth, the buccaneers exploits were hurting the fragile stability of the colonial planters and deemed bad for business. In 1692 Port Royal suffered a cataclysmic earthquake; thousands drowned when two-thirds of the port slid into the sea. By that time, Henry Morgan had been jailed to appease the Spanish, released from the Tower, knighted, and had lived out his years as lieutenant-governor of Jamaica. When he died in 1688 he left an estate worth over 5,000 pounds, but his grave sank into the sea when Port Royal was submerged, a fitting end for the worlds most famous buccaneer. BOOK REVIEW BY BOB BERLINGHOF

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SEPTEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 34 Departure Planning a 1,200-mile passage to Cuba on our 1978 Ontario 32, Veleda IV , we departed English Harbour in Antigua by 0800, January 4th, with a double-reefed main, as the winds were predicted to be 20 to 25 knots for a few days. Within an hour we had shut off the engine and were cruising along wing and wingŽ at six knots in brisk Force 6 easterly winds. The following seas caused quite a bit of yawing, but the Raymarine self-steering system worked quite well and held Veleda on course in spite of the three-metre (ten-foot) overtaking swells. At least we were going in the right direction, as we were heading west on a magnetic course of 288. Coming back from Cuba will be a totally different situation, against these same winds! In the evening, we followed our usual sea routine whereby my wife Judy went to bed shortly after supper while I took the first watch from about 1900 to 2400, with our friend Doug enjoying a nightcap of whiskey with me after doing the dishes before he went to bed. The winds held easterly at Force 5 to 6 (15 to 25 knots) all night and into the morning, with threemetre swells. Judy had the middle watch from 2400 to 0400, and Doug the morning watch from 0400 to 0800. We enjoy having Doug on board again, especially as he assumes the role of galley slaveŽ, in which he insists on doing all the dishes after meals (maybe thats why he always wants to take us out to local restaurants while at anchor) and getting coffee and tea ready for us first thing in the morning. The Medical Emergency I got up at 0700, and Doug apologized for not having my coffee ready as he thought I would not be up before my 0800 watch. He went below to start getting it for me. I asked him if he was sure he wanted to do so in this heavy following sea, to which he said, Well see.Ž In the cockpit, I was familiarizing myself with the morning weather and sea state when I looked below to see Doug having some problems with the coffee. We use a conical plastic basket with a paper filter and set it on top of a steel thermos in the sink, pouring hot water through the ground coffee. He had spilt the basket and had the right sleeve of his white knit cardigan messed up with coffee grounds. At first I thought he had just spilt the basket and was cleaning up the mess. He seemed busy at getting the thermos and basket under control, and I thought, I too have occasionally spilt the basket, with appropriate curses as I was cleaning up the messŽ. Doug didnt curse. In fact it was not until I noticed skin peeling from his left wrist down his thumb that I was aware he had badly scalded himself. I immediately called Judy and went down to see how serious it was. It was bad! Rather than holding the basket, he had held the thermos, and when the basket tipped the boiling water he was pouring spilled over his left wrist and hand. He still didnt yell or curse, and I think he was still trying to clean up the spilt coffee grinds. I took the thermos and basket out of the sink while he flushed his hand with cool water from the tap to clean the wound. I then got a two-litre measuring cup filled with chilled water from the refrigerator to plunge his hand in while Judy got some burn cream and bandages to dress the area. „Continued on next pageA Medical Emergency, a Hazardous Night-Time Entry, and a Silver Liningby Aubrey Millard Veleda IV in Antigua, prior to departure for „ we thought „ Cuba

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SEPTEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 35 New marine center presents the latest Dutch innovation in boat handling equipment. Hauling capacity 45 tons and Catamarans up to 33ft beam. Safe dry storage with 24 hours security Long-term storage. AWLGRIP® indoor spray painting and many other services. We are located in the safe harbor of Willemstad. Curaçao Marine Email: curacaomarine@interneeds.net Phone: +(599 9) 465 8936 Fax: 465 8941 www.curacaomarine.com „Continued from previous page She dressed his wrist and hand with Flamazine, a burn cream recommended by our doctors before we left Toronto in 1998. (We have a very extensive medical supply prescribed by our doctors before we left, and fortunately have not had to use much of it other than a few bandaids and a couple of antibiotic treatments for cuts.) To keep the cream in contact with the burned area, she wrapped Saran Wrap around it, and taped it off. We made a sling out of some netting material we had left from the curtains Judy made for the main cabin, and gave Doug some Tylenol 3 to ease the pain. He was very stoic about the situation. If it had been me, I would have hollered loud and clear when I did it and been cursing myself for the accident and the pain. Not Doug. We got him settled down on the port settee, his bunk while with us, and started to consider our options. This was the second day out and we still had 1,000 miles to go to Cuba. Looking at the computerized chart, Judy thought of Puerto del Rey in Puerto Rico, 145 miles away to the west-northwest. We had already passed Montserrat and Nevis, and would have had to beat back against the wind to return to either. We thought it best to get Doug to a clinic as soon as possible to assess and clean the burn, and to consider if he could stay with us for the rest of the voyage or if he should head immediately back to Canada for treatment which we could not provide on board. Looking at the charts again we realized that St. Croix in the US Virgin Islands was only 75 miles to the northwest, and so at 0830 we altered course for Christiansted on St. Croixs north coast. This meant a night-time first entry into a port. A Hazardous Night-Time Entry We made good time on a broad reach with the 25knot winds on our starboard quarter. We had a limited amount of information on St. Croix, other than a 20-year-old Virgin Islands pilot and our computerized mapping system. No other charts! The last sentence in the pilot on the entry to Christiansted said, It is imperative that the entrance into Christiansted Harbour be made in daylight...Ž as the entrance around the east end of the island is shoal-studded between Buck Island and the main island, and the actual entrance into the harbour is a zig-zag course between several shoals and offlying islands. Without a doubt, this was our most difficult and dangerous night entry. Judy did a great job of plotting the multiple legs on the C-map on our laptop, and had it hooked into our Garmin 128 GPS for our night entry to Christiansted. The just-past-full moon didnt rise until after we were in, and as a result we had a very black night with nothing but shore lights and the few lighted navigation aids to guide us. We could not see the shoreline or the crestline of the island. We were totally dependent upon the C-map, GPS, and our limited mark oneŽ eyeballs (our depth sounder was not working, and we have no radar). As we rounded the east end of St. Croix down the channel between it and Buck Island, the wind kept up at 30 knots astern of us, with one-metre following seas, causing Veleda to yaw ten to 20 degrees to port and starboard of our GPS course line. I was steering using the ships compass rather than the GPS, as I didnt know how much leeway we had in the channel. The compass did not have an operational compass light, and I wore a red LED headlamp to see the compass course. Judy was down below at the laptop screen directing me from the C-map, and calling up the magnetic course I should be steering. Once past Buck Island we called the marina by radio, just in case anyone was there. No such luck! However, we got a response call from Avalon V , a Canadian boat we met down at Hog Island in Grenada. They were at anchor behind Protestant Island, at the far side of the harbour, where we had anticipated going if not to the marina. They recommended not going to that anchorage, as it was quite crowded, and informed us that the fuel dock was at the far side of the marina. To make matters worse, there was a oneor twoknot tidal current astern of us, setting us down towards the various navigational buoys, some of which were not lighted. On a couple of legs we were set down below the next buoys and had to crab our way against the current to round, but not overshoot, them. Another time Judy said there should be a buoy dead ahead, and we should turn to port. But „ there was no buoy in sight! Turn anyway! Okay! „Continued on next page Chart showing our nocturnal course into Christiansted Harbour and the Gallows Bay anchorage

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SEPTEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 36 Full Service Marina Facility VIRGINGORDAYACHTHARBOUROur facility located in the heart of beautiful Virgin Gorda comprises a 111-slip marina and a boatyard with 12 acres of dry storage space offering insurance approved hurricane pits to secure your vessel during hurricane season. Onsite amenities and services include a bank/ATM, a supermarket, chandlery, restaurant, bakery, clothing store, dive shop, phone and fax facilities, free wireless internet access, fuel, water and ice, laundry facilities, and an office of the BVI Tourist Board all in a pristine and relaxing environment. BVI Customs and immigration located within convenient walking distance. Tel: 284 495-5500 284 495-5318 Fax: 284 495-5706 284 495-5685 Web: www.vgmarina.biz VHF Ch: 16LEAVE YOUR BOAT IN OUR CARE THIS SUMMER „Continued from previous page Additional confusion was created by the sight of other buoys marking a secondary channel north around Protestant Island, a direction we were not taking. Seeing these flashing green and red buoys in a featureless black harbour created a degree of uncertainty: were they for our intended channel or the other channel? Both Judy and I trusted our C-map more than the confusion of flashing buoys. The situation reminded me of Blind PilotageŽ exercises I did for my watchkeepers certificate in the Canadian Navy when all the bridge windows would be covered up and I had to navigate on instruments only. As we worked our way cautiously around the last few buoys towards the marina, we still could not see the docks, or have any idea of how they were laid out. There were no lights on the docks, just a black indistinct shoreline which frightened me to even approach. I saw a couple of sailboats anchored to my port, outside of the entrance channel, and decided to go towards them and if possible anchor between them. I had no idea of the depths outside of the channel markers, but thought if they could anchor there, so could we, as we draw only four and a half feet. I crept Veleda up to the starboard quarter of the outermost anchored boat and dropped the hook. By the time we settled to a secure anchor, our stern was a few feet out into the channel, but what the hell, we were secure in the ominously named Gallows Bay at Christiansted (17°45.02N, 064°41.96W) after a scary night-time entrance. Next morning we dinghied in to the fuel dock and informed the people at the marina chandlery of our situation. They were most helpful, checking with the emergency department of the hospital and calling Homeland Security at the airport for us to be able to check in to US territory. We walked to the Customs and Immigration office a couple of hundred yards down the harbour where we met with a very cooperative officer. He called a cab for us from his mobile phone to send Doug and Judy to the emergency clinic at the hospital, and I remained to do the check-in formalities, after which he drove me to the hospital. I filled out an entry and a departure form. The forms were for a 48-hour period, and if we were there longer we would need to come back for more paperwork. There was no charge for the completion of these forms or any overtime incurred. I was mildly surprised at this relatively simple efficient entry formality, as I know airport security for the US involves personal and baggage searches, and would not have been surprised if he requested a search of Veleda . The reasonableness and co-operation of the Homeland Security officers was greatly appreciated. At the hospital, we waited from 1100 to 1530 before Doug was seen. The scald was inspected, cleaned and re-dressed with Silvadene cream (basically the same as the Flamazine we had used) and wrapped with gauze bandages. We were told the burn was bad enough (deep second and possibly third degree) that he should return to Canada for further treatment. Doug flew out next afternoon. We were sad to see him go, but further treatment was far more important than his continuing with us. This was the first serious injury we have had on board during our nine years of cruising. We are aware that any mis-step could result in a major accident causing a broken limb, head injury, crushed fingers, burns or scalds, or even a man overboard situation. This incident has caused us to be that much more vigilant „ and I have made more instant coffee at sea since Dougs accident, rather than the more precarious filtered coffee! A Silver Lining In Toronto Doug was well cared for as an outpatient, and he was given a large batch of dressings to protect the wound between debriding sessions while it was healing. He had many dressings left over, and gave them to us on our spring visit to Canada to donate to a medical facility on our travels. There is a large international cruising community in the Hog Island anchorage near the village of Woburn on the south coast of Grenada. In July, we donated the dressings to the Woburn Medical Station, presenting them to Nurse Pansy François, who then gave us a tour of the facility. The medical station was re-commissioned by the Basic Needs Trust Fund Programme in February of this year after damage from Hurricane Ivan which devastated Grenada in September 2004. The rebuilding was funded by the Government of Grenada, the Caribbean Development Bank and the Canadian International Development Agency. However the station is still short of some equipment and furnishings. We returned later in the day to donate an electric kettle, and a gas bottle with regulator and hose for their cooker, which we had noted were needed. Thanks also go to Deborah and John Gerber of Sea Witch , long-time liveaboards located at Hog Island, for the information about the needs of the station and for transportation to and from the facility. We would encourage more cruisers to donate to worthy causes in communities in which they anchor or hunker down in marinas, in addition to just buying groceries and supplies as their contribution to the economy. PS „ We never did reach Cuba, as after leaving St. Croix we had to divert to Kingston, Jamaica, due to storms and to repair steering problems. We arrived at Kingston without charts or pilot book, but at least this time we entered in daylight. After Dougs galley mishap, he donated burn dressings which we presented to Nurse Pansy François at Woburn, Grenada

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SEPTEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 37 IT'S MUCH MORE THAN A MARINA: IT'S HOME!WE OFFER: € 24 hour security € 120 concrete slip berths € Electricity: 220V/ 50amp; 110V/300amps (single phase and three phase) € 16ft channel € Fuel dock and bunkering € Free satellite TV at each slip € Telephone hook-up € Shower facilities € Wireless internet, banks and laundry within the complex € Pick-up and drop-off from major supermarkets We monitor VHF channels 16 & 79A (alpha … American system) P.O. Box 4540, Airport Road, Sint Maarten, N.A., Caribbean Tel: 599-5442309 Fax: 599-5443378 Visit our website: www.sbmarina.biz E-mail: reservations@sbmarina.biz Over and over again our guests refer to our marina as their "Home"! Join us this summer and continue to enjoy the hospitality. „Continued from page 23 ...Cuba Music was a highlight, too. Towns and villages had music housesŽ where for a dollar you could hear exceptional jazz groups from 4:00PMto whenever. We bought CDs from many groups and relive Cuba as they play. Tourism is enormous in Cuba; the few US citizens who visit enter via Canada and Mexico. The resort hotels are all-inclusive, keeping tourists away from the real Cuba and the Cubans. We sat down at one such hotels restaurant and ordered a bowl of pistachio ice cream (the first for a month) and beers. We did offer to pay, but the staff were confused at the offer of money. A one CUC tip solved the matter. At another hotels bar, I was challenged. Are you in the marina?Ž I was asked as I looked down at my wrinkled yachtie clothes. If not, you must pay CUC 17 to be on our grounds,Ž the waiter said. Then he added, But that is ridiculous, so leave us a tip and you can drink and eat all day.Ž Yvonnes brother, David, and his wife, Irene, arrived in Cienfuegos, where we were waiting, and we toured inland before heading for the offshore islands and lobsters. It seems there are no small lobsters in Cuba. Fishermen in rusty concrete boats with bits falling off would throw lobster on our decks looking for a trade. A dollars worth of rum gave us five grand lobsters. We also ate stingray and turtle given us. Many islands had good snorkelling but due to the many gifts of seafood, we had no need to shoot fish. David did land an enormous tarpon, which we released. Havana has some wonderfully restored buildings (as well as dilapidated, unrestored buildings) and we delighted in walking for miles. The Capitol, where the onetime democratic parliament operated, was a masterpiece and we spent hours exploring its nooks and crannies. The Cuban family unit is very strong. Grandma is always in the house to look after children while both parents work. Unless the family owned the house before 1954, all houses are government owned. The extended family lives in one house; we found four or five generations crammed into a house as best they could manage. On our inland trips, we stayed with families in beautiful homes which operate as guest houses. All the pre-1954 furniture, paintings and porcelain are displayed. There were 18-foot ceilings, delicate interior courtyards and, of course, delightful, generous hosts. We paid CUC 25 for a night, the Government-prescribed amount. The owner pays a monthly fee to the Government and we filled out papers as we arrived. Authorities can arrive at any moment to check the books of such a house, and jail or large fines heavily punish any cheating. Neighbours count the number of guests and report in. To one particularly generous family we tried to offer a gift of an old electric drill. The head was aghast, If I took that the neighbours would report it and how could I explain? Why, I could end up in jail.ŽPrivate enterprise does exist and we bought great pizzas from a vendor with a street oven for five Cuban pesos (20 US cents) but these are intended for Cubans to buy, as tourists are not meant to have Cuban pesos, only CUC. Two months was all we were allowed in Cuba. We were headed next for Norfolk, Virginia, to refit our boat. As Australians, we had been treated as inferior beings by USA embassies in Colombia and Jamaica, who wanted us to wait months for an appointment to get a visa for the States. In Havana, at the United States Interests Section of the Swiss Embassy, our visas were issued the next day. One fact that impresses or depresses the USA citizens is that the United States Interests Section is a seven-storey building within at least three acres of secure fencing and has a very large staff. The USIS is processing over 200 visas a day for Cubans (as well as two Australians) to visit the USA. After David and Irene departed from Isla de Juventud, we sailed for Maria la Gorda at the western end of Cuba, to check out. Then, before June 1, came Tropical Storm Barry, the first named storm of 2007, so we sheltered along the northwest coast of Cuba, island hopping each day. As soon as the weather improved, we sailed for Beaufort, North Carolina, and entered the USA. Interestingly, the Customs simply told us we could not come from Cuba to the USA and took my Cuban cigars. We showed our US visas, issued in Cuba, which amazed them. We look forward to seeing many USA mates or at least talking to them when we get to the internet. Bernie and Yvonne Katchor have been cruising on Australia 31 for 13 years. His book Around the Next Bend , about Australia 31 s voyages in the rivers of Venezuela and Guyana, is available at www.adventurebooksofseattle.com/comingattractions.htm. Cuba: No amps, no bling, no problem

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SEPTEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 38 Alarge part of whats so appealing about the cruising life is the variety of peoples and places we experience. Sometimes these experiences are a bit different than we are used to, but thats the islands, Mon. Fowl Annually, we live aboard for a while in our favorite boatyard. Cooking is a chore so when the marinas grocery store bought a rotisserie, we took advantage of the spicy chickens they cooked. This was a chicken night. The Captain left me sipping a dark and dietŽ and admiring the golds of the evening creeping over the harbor, while he went for the chicken. He was gone a while, but the Captains a sociable type, so I didnt worry. Eventually he was back with a warm bag. Plopping it on the table, he said, Youre not going to believe this. I went into the store and looked to make sure there were chickens in the machine. Yes. So I went up to the cashierƒ.Ž He says, Is one of those chickens available?Ž She says, No, would you like to pay for it now?Ž Pause, try again. Is one of those chickens available?Ž No, would you like to pay for it now?Ž Longer pause, look around. Can I have one of those chickens?Ž Yes, would you like to pay for it now?Ž We chuckled all the way through dinner. Fowler Being a bit insular, we dont speak French. That doesnt stop us from enjoying some of the lovely advantages of the French islands. However, provisioning can be an adventure. Stopping in the town of St. Pierre, on Martinique, we headed for our favorite grocery, two streets back from the wharf. Paté is always on the list, but this time we were looking for a chicken for the grill. Happily, there are usually pictures on the food wrappers. We brought our purchases home. Now, the Captain has some very firm ideas about cleaning chickens, so he goes at it. In a few minutes I hear: Mate!Ž (Thats me.) Theres no breast on this chicken!Ž Sure enough, no breast. Still, enough for two people for dinner. Shortly, plates are loaded with grilled chicken and sides. Bounce goes the fork. More determinedly, the steak knives come out. No go. This is the original rubber chicken! Plan B: 24 hours later we have chicken soup, Yum. Most Fowl There ought to be a law in Tortola, BVI, that every man, woman and child must eat roast chicken for Sunday dinner. That ought to eliminate the genetically defective birds that start crowing at 1:00AMthinking its morning. Sort of Fowl We were in one of the Grenadine islands, and opted for grilled chicken and rice from a roadside stand. Taking our hot foil packages, we sat under a tree looking out over the bay. Unwrapping my chicken, I looked at it for a moment before I realized the drumstick was eight inches long! Oh well, tastes just like chickenƒ sorta. Absolutely the Fowlest! According to the pickup truck driver turned impromptu tour guide in Great Inagua, Bahamas, traditional Christmas dinner was/is roast flamingo. Makes me think that Inaguans must be great fans of gravy, with that much neck to work with. I also have to wonder how they fit those drumsticks into the oven! FOWL PLAYby Betty Fries This photo was taken 552 miles north of St. Thomas en route from the Chesapeake. There was no wind, so Captain Larry grilled „ what else? „ chicken

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SEPTEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 39 Your #1Choice for Provisioning in the Grenadines.Fine Wine, Cheeses, Fresh Fruits, Vegetables and Choice MeatsMonday-Saturday: 8am to12pm & 3pm to 6pm Sunday: 9am to12pmTHE FOOD STORE Corea  s MustiqueTel: (784) 488-8479 Fax: (784) 456-5230 Packages Pick Ð up call:+ (599) 553-3850 / + (590) 690-222473 Int.001-3057042314 E-mail:ericb@megatropic.comIf you need to transport parcels,pallets, magazines,newspapers etc...CIRExpress give fast and efficient COURIER SERVICES to the Dutch and French side of St.Maarten/ St.Martin,offer the new delivery system collect and deliver door to door local the same day,Express packages and documents, Overnight Packages,Freight,Documents etc. All you need is contact us to fast pick up and deliver all your goods.S S S S t t t t . . . . M M M M a a a a a a a a r r r r t t t t e e e e n n n n SERVING AT SEA BY SHIRLEY HALL The Versatile ChristopheneWe eat a lot of crunchy christophene in stir-fry. The flavor is similar to a zucchini summer squash, but christophene has only a single seed. My husband calls it the West Indian mushroomŽ since it tends to acquires the flavor of whatever is cooked with it. Christophene is a pear-shaped member of the squash family which originated in Central America, cultivated by the Mayan and Aztec Amerindians. Christophene is now cultivated in the worlds tropics from Australia and Madagascar to China and Algeria. It has many names, christophene to the French, chayote in Spanish, custard marrow to the Brits, cho-cho for West Indians, and vegetable pear or mirliton in the US. There are two basic varieties, smooth or prickly. One cup of christophene has only 25 calories and almost no fat or carbohydrates. However, it is a source of sodium (salt). It also has some fiber and Vitamin C. A tea made from christophene leaves is a bush treatment for hypertension and is reported to dissolve kidney stones. Christophene is very versatile and can be eaten raw (grated or sliced) or cooked: boiled and mashed, fried (especially good in stir-fry) or baked. Raw christophene juice is difficult to wash off, so oil hands lightly before peeling. Baked Christophene 4 christophene, halved and seeded 2 Tablespoons olive oil or melted butter 1 bunch chadon bene, chopped Salt and spice to taste Wash, but do not peel christophene halves. Place in a baking dish with the cut side down. Brush with olive oil or melted butter and sprinkle with the chadon bene, salt and spices. Bake at 350°F for 40 minutes. Christophene Soup 4 Tablespoons olive oil 2 cloves of garlic, peeled and sliced thin 1 large onion (red preferred), chopped 2 christophene, peeled, seeded and cubed 4 large ripe tomatoes, chopped 1 bunch chadon bene, chopped Salt and spices to taste Half of a hot pepper, seeded and minced (optional) 1/2 Cup water Grated cheese and/or breadcrumbs to garnish In a large skillet heat the oil before adding the garlic and onion. Then add christophene, tomatoes, chadon bene, salt, spices and water. Simmer for half an hour. Top with grated cheese and/or breadcrumbs. Christophene Onion Quiche 1 large onion, chopped 3 christophene, peeled, seeded and cubed 1/4 Cup butter 1 firm tomato, chopped 1/2 Cup grated cheddar cheese Salt and spice to taste 2 eggs, beaten 1/4 Cup milk 1 medium red sweet pepper, sliced into rings 1 unbaked pie shell Sauté onions and christophene in butter until cooked but still firm. Mix in the tomato. Add half of the cheese, salt and spices and pour into the unbaked pie shell. Mix the eggs with the milk and pour into shell. Cover with remaining cheese and pepper rings. Bake at 350°F for 45 minutes, or until the egg mixture is cooked. This can be changed into an omelet by omitting the pie shell. Christophene Sweet Pepper Salad 2 christophene, peeled, seeded and sliced very thin 1 large sweet pepper, preferably red, cored, seeded and cut into matchsticks 1 Tablespoon olive oil Juice of 2 limes Salt and spices to taste In a bowl, well mix the christophene and sweet pepper pieces with the oil, lime juice and seasonings. Let stand for at least 20 minutes before serving. Christophene Casserole 1 medium onion, chopped 2 cloves garlic, minced 1/2 pound minced beef (or chicken) 2 Tablespoons canola oil 1/2 sweet bell pepper, chopped 2 Cups christophene peeled, seeded, and cubed 1/4 Cup tomato sauce 1 leaf chadon bene, chopped Salt and spice to taste 2 Tablespoons butter or margarine 1/4 Cup breadcrumbs In a frying pan brown the onion and garlic with the minced meat in the oil, then add sweet pepper and christophene pieces. Mix in tomato sauce, chadon bene, salt and spices before dumping into a buttered casserole dish. Cover with breadcrumbs before baking at 350°F for 45 minutes. For the Gardeners Perhaps you have seen the christophene plantation on the road from Arima to Blanchisseuse in Trinidad. Christophene grows as an attractive vine, but it takes a lot of attention to grow. This vine loves the sun, but also needs plenty of water and humidity, and a fence or a jammrah (trellis). The easiest method to grow this vegetable is to locate a farmer and beg a plant. Failing that, select two christophene at the market. Ask the vendor if they have any that are over-ripe and budding. If not, set the christophene in a warm window, but not in direct sun. In a few days it will start to shrivel and wrinkle and soon sprout a bud. Plant the seed, bud upwards, in a clay pot with sandy soil. Lightly fertilize with 12-24-12. Once the plant catches, move it outdoors where the vine can climb. Provide it with some shade, such as a banana leaf or a board. Do not fully cover it. Water regularly and use 12-12-17-2 mix when it begins to blossom. Christophene tends to produce better the second season. Although christophene is self-pollinating, it seems to like having brothers or sisters around. Youll probably get more fruit if you plant a second vine on a nearby fence.

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SEPTEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 40 Dave & Jane RoyceDodgers, Biminis, Awnings, Stak-paks & Sailcovers, Laying-up Covers & Dinghy Covers Exterior & Interior Upholstery Leathering Steering Wheels & GrabrailsAgents forSCIENTIFIC SAILMAKINGNEW L OCA TION Le Phare Bleu Marina,Petite Calivigny Grenada,West Indies Tel/Fax (473) 443 2960 dave@TheCanvasShopGrenada.com In fact anything you can think of we have it covered! Our beautiful Cabo Rico, Spectre , got hauled out here last week and joined the boats on Row D. We have cleaned up everything inside (I admit I am fastidious) and put on the tarp. Tomorrow we head back to the city, leaving the boat here until the next cruising season. It is a good yard: a bit pricey perhaps, with lots of rules, but well-run and responsible. Trees all around give great protection. With the sun on your skin and the sand firm underfoot, it is a pleasant yard to work in. Besides; we have lots of friends here. Billy and Dawn, that couple we met in Sainte Anne, have their Tayana 37 in our row. They have been cruising for years. I dont think I have ever known a couple more at oneŽ with their boat. Next to them is that family of keen racers we met in Antigua with their brand-new Beneteau. They sail everywhere. I suspect the engine is too small. The two teenage sons talk about carbon fiber and sheeting angles all the time. Beside them is that reserved Canadian couple with the Alberg 37 who seem very content with it. You have to love the shape of boats. When they are up on the stands you get a chance to admire their underwater lines: the sleek overhangs of the Alberg; the chubby cheeks of the Tayana; the delicate bowl of the Beneteau poised on its fin keel. Each one is a different creature. We did not get very far this year because we had to stay somewhere convenient for the grandchildren. We read a lot and I did odd jobs around the boat. I must say the jobs have been a little harder this year. My body seems stiff. My loyal wife and longtime cruising companion has evidently noticed it too. Last week she was unusually blunt. Look at you. You are all hunched over like an old man. Your hand trembles when you walk.Ž She made me go to a local quack who prescribed some tablets. I dont believe in pills but I took one with my coffee this morning just to keep her happy. The travel lift is grinding up the yard with another boat for our row. I have seen that beat-up Morgan before. I remember the bent pulpit and the scars along the topsides. It must have been hard aground on its side at one time. Now I recollect the owner too. We met him in Marathon, a single-hander with a ginger beard who was arguing with the marina staff. He will be next to us in the yard so we will have to get along. And here he comes, choking mad about something. Look at this.Ž He is brandishing the marina brochure. They charge two hundred effing bucks to put the boat on the stands and, on top of that, twenty-five bucks every time you want to move a stand to paint the bottom. Twenty-five bucks to move a frigging stand? What a rip-off. No way, José!Ž Well, it takes all sorts. That pill I took this morning. Its quite remarkable. I feel distinctly different, more limber. Look, I am walking upright. My hand is not shaking. The doc said to take one a day but I think I will try a few extra this evening and see how I am in the morning. That way I can find out what these pills can really do. Anyway it is encouraging. Perhaps I can get back to my old self and be more adventurous next season. It is our last night. The boat is shut up so we are bedding down in a friends trailer. God, it is stuffy. My wife is snoring gently. I cant sleep. I will go for a walk until I get tired. I tip-toe out of the trailer. It is curious, all my perceptions seem heightened. My muscles are on edge, like a racehorse in the starting gate. What a beautiful night! How strange the yard looks in moonlight. It is quite transfigured. The sand has turned to dazzling snow. The black trees stand stiffly, alert as sentries, holding their breath with expectation. The boats have grown larger. Their swelling bodies lurk in deep shadow. In the bluish light their covers gleam like wet fur. I imagine that I have strayed into the secret dormitory of some huge marine mammals, giant walruses perhaps. When the night breeze moves the covers these creatures seem to stir in their sleep. I hide in the shadows so as not to disturb them. What was that? I thought I heard a voice. A cold shiver grips my neck. I must be imagining things. I have noticed that when it is very quiet, the mind makes sounds of its own. No, there it is again, a moaning female voice. I am glad it is overƒ.Ž Now I am wild with fear, my hearing acute. They push me too hardƒ.Ž The voice is coming from that Beneteau! Some poor woman has been left on board. We are always pounding upwind, straining the rigging.Ž I should rush to help but my limbs seem paralyzed. Then, right behind me, an intake of breath. I turn with horror. On the hull of the Tayana, close to the bow, an eye has appeared, a small, shrewd elephants eye, with lashes. It closes and opens again. A deep voice speaks: The things we put up with. But listen; if they look after your gear you will be safe enough. Eventually they will get tired of it too. Long ago I made a point of performing poorly up wind. It took a while, but our lot finally gave up trying and waited until they could get to places on a reach. When they do that I try to give them a smooth ride.Ž The Beneteau shakes her covers. I can see the hull move as she takes a breath. I dont mind carving upwind in flat water. That is what I am made for. But this poundingƒ.Ž The lips on the plumb bow compress tightly. You have to be patient.Ž This quiet Canadian voice is coming from the Alberg. For a while, my couple carried too much sail. I had to pitch everything out of the galley onto the cabin sole a few times before they caught on. Now we get along fine.Ž I can hear other voices murmuring all down the row. My eyes catch the open sores on the Morgans flanks oozing in the moonlight. The Morgan is talking to its neighbour. Its neighbour? That is our boat! I refocus my hearing. The Morgan said I would kill him if I got the chance. He is so incompetent. Half the time he is drunk. We have been aground, hit docks, hit other boats. He never fixes anything. I am ashamed to be seen like this.Ž I can hear fluttering all around now. Conversations are starting up all over the yard. I am frozen with fear. At least you go places.Ž That is our boat answering! An eye, a moist, black, whales eye now glistens at the bow. A crescent of white appears as the eye turns to the Morgan. I have a couple of old farts who never go anywhere. Can you believe three months in Vero Beach? On a mooring? Sure, they fuss about varnishing and removing every speck of rust, but what for? I am an ocean boat. I just wish they would sell me to a younger couple who want to do blue water. I would show them what a real boat can do.Ž I am furious! Old farts? I burst out into the moonlight. How dare you say that? We did the whole Caribbean several times.Ž All the boats are suddenly hushed. A silence sweeps across the yard like a hiss. But I can tell they are just holding their breath, listening. The whales eye closes and fades back into the hull. Come back,Ž I shout. John. Is that you?Ž It is my wife calling. She is coming down the yard in her nightie and yellow sailing boots. Who on earth are you taking to? You sounded angry.Ž We are back in the city now with all its noise and hurry. I have been dragging around to specialists. They say I have a neurological disorder. It is progressive but it can be slowed. I am taking different pills now. They seem to control the stiffness, and they dont keep me awake all night. Reluctantly, after repeated family discussions, I call the boat yard. We have to sell our boat, Spectre . It is on Row D.Ž Row D? Just a minute.Ž A young cheerful voice. He must be new on staff. I can hear shifting papers and voices in the background. Someone in the distance says, Is he calling about the Morgan?Ž No, Spectre .Ž There is more mumbling, then the young voice comes back on the line. It is okay. Your boat is okay. So we will tell the broker that  Spectre  is for sale and have him advertise it. You may be in luck. There was a young couple here yesterday looking for a boat like yours to sail to New Zealand.Ž He sounds way too glib and cheerful for a serious moment like parting with a boat. Thank you. Please have the broker call meƒwhat was that about the Morgan?Ž Areƒare you a relative?Ž No. Why?Ž Well I was not here at the time. I just started last week. Apparently the owner moved the stands to paint the bottom. We dont allow that, you know. Anyway the boat fell on him.Ž COMPASS FICTION HAUL OUTby Peter Ashby

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SEPTEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 41Remember to tell our advertisers you saw their ad in Compass! Stock Upon the widest selection and the best prices in Grenada at our two conveniently located supermarkets. Whether its canned goods, dairy products, meat, fresh vegetables or fruits, toiletries, household goods, or a fine selection of liquor and wine, The Food Fair has it all and a lot more.Hubbards JONAS BROWNE & HUBBARD (Gda.) Ltd. The Carenage: Monday Thursday 8 am to 5:30 pm Friday until 8:45 pm Saturday until 1:00 pm Tel: (473) 440-2588 Grand Anse: Monday Thursday 9 am to 5:30 pm Friday & Saturday until 7:00 pm Tel: (473) 444-4573 CARRIACOU REAL ESTATELand and houses for sale For full details see our website: www.islandvillas.com or contact Carolyn Alexander atDown Island Ltd e-mail: islander@caribsurf.comTel: (473) 443 8182 Fax: (473) 443 8290We also handle Villa Rentals & Property Management on Carriacou BEACHSIDE TERRACE RESTAURANT & BARBeachside Terrace your special place in Grenada for fun and fine foodMonday: Grenada Buffet & Crab Races Wednesday: Steel Band Music Friday: BBQ Dinner & Extempo Calypsonian Open Daily 6:00AM… 10:30PMLocated at The Flamboyant Hotel Information & Reservation: (473) 444-4247 The home of Grenadas Longest Happy Hour!! 4PM-7PM& 11PM-midnight (50% off all drinks) OPEN until 3AMDaily Cocktails *** Relaxation *** Parties *** Pool *** Sports TV ***Located directly on the beach at The Flamboyant HotelTel: (473) 444-4247 THE MILLIONAIRESby John GuyAt a marina somewhere south, former stockbroker Jack Chap joined J.P. Morgan on J.P.s 56-foot Morgan Rico . It must have been a bad day for J.P. I tell you, Jack.Ž said J.P, This boat will eat you alive. My annual expenses are at least a hundred and twenty-five thousand dollars. This marina wants more than eight hundred a month, plus electricity. And everyone wants a bit of me, like that Manuel, the dock worker, always trying to get a bit more out of me, and out of you. And my stockbroker. I called him last night, around ten, and he would not take the call. I know my account is small, less than five million dollars, but he could at least take my calls, after all the years Ive been loyal to the guy.Ž Next day, they went out to dinner. J.P. bought them a bottle of wine for $20. Jack, even this meal is expensive. Look, my bill for this food, if you call it that, is going to be at least twenty-five bucks, yours probably the same. But what really irks me today, and I mentioned it to you last night, are these dock workers. What do you pay Manuel, by the way?Ž Around four dollars an hour.Ž Ahh, you are the one! Ive been loyal to Manuel. I promised him several months of guaranteed business, and you know what he did? He said that you asked him to wash your boat, and hes leaving mine undone until tomorrow. But the bigger problem is that you are paying him too much! Everyone else here pays around two seventyfive an hour, but then you come along, a stranger to the marina, and you accept whatever he asks, taking him away from me, and raising the general level of expenses for all of us. We had a pretty solid agreement to stop that, over in Puerto La Cruz, I think it was, but every once in a while some innocent neophyte, like you, comes in, pays more, and causes problems for the rest of us. Damn it, Jack! Look what youve done!Ž At this point, Jack was not counting on a long-term friendship with J.P., but he only commented Well, J.P., Ive gotten to know Manuel pretty well. His work is fine, and cruisers like him. Of his sixty years, he has worked here almost thirty. But he lives day to day, without benefits, except some minor government programs, and there were a couple of times I had to advance him a few pesos just so he could get over here to work. At the rate that you say is the going rate, he takes home $23 per day, for him and his wife. Most weeks he works six days, some seven, but occasionally no work is available from the cruisers. So, I give him a little more.Ž Cut it out, will you Jack?Ž said J.P. These people are just out to get us for all weve got, as though our vaults were filled with gold. You just want to be sure he works for you instead of me, right? Ive got to get things done here too, you know. Hey, want another bottle of wine?Ž The next morning, about five oclock, Manuel came by, knocked on Jacks boat, and said he had to get someone else to do Jacks boat, and he was going to try to make special arrangements for J.P. and others he had promised to help, but could not for a day or two. Jack asked what was going on. Manuel said, My mother died last night. Ive got to go the funeral. It is in my pueblo, a couple of hours from here. Jack, can you advance me some bus fare?Ž COMPASS FICTION Every once in a while some innocent neophyte, like you, comes inƒ CHRIS DOYLE'S GUIDESCheck out the features that make them the Caribbean's best sellers!Full Color sketch charts Aerial and scenic color photography Up-do-date, lively and relevant text Downloadable waypoints & updates on the web at www.doyleguides.comHave you got the latest Venezuela guide yet?Ž All the info you need if you are planning a cruise!

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SEPTEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 42 Dear Compass, Further to the ongoing discussion of the use of strobe lights on boats. I am one of those totally anarchy-plagued, survivalisttype chaps who left the USA for more than half my life and one of the first things that I learned was en pais qui vai uzenzo que trove , which means in countries where you go, use what you find thereŽ. In Venezuela, I find countless hundreds of fishing boats using single D-cell fisherman strobes, visible a maximum of two miles, usually set fairly low to the water and just about the only thing that works when seen against the backdrop of towns like Juangriego or Porlamar here in Isla Margarita. It aint exactly a cardinal light by any stretch of imagination, but it does get the old attention and forces folks to take a second look „ because, after all, it is what works, not what suits all the maritime lawyers. I was run over twice and now use whatever works to keep this old engineless gaffer singlehander fool out of harms way. If you see a low intensity strobe „ well, back off. Maybe I am 45 miles of shark-filled longline. As an oft-becalmed drifting gaffer, Mermaid pretty much fits the description of a drifting longliner „ except my fishing line runs vertical, and might contain only four hooks. Short of flying two vertical red lights, signifying a vessel not under command, a singlehander who reduces sail to catch a bit of a nap often benefits by posing as a drifting fisherman. When I lie ahull or reduce speed, my normally towed surface fishing line becomes a deep line and Mermaid , in fact, remains a fishing vessel „ a mini-longliner, if you will „ and her hull becomes my marker pole and I use my fishermans marker strobeŽ. Hopefully most marine lawyers and pinball wizards might see the difference between a marker strobe and a high-intensity masthead rescue strobe. I have spoken with several operators of ocean tugs, large fishing vessels and even an occasional cruise ship captain, all of whom agree that second to maintaining a good watch (sometimes awkward when singlehanding) a low-intensity strobe does get their attention and that is exactly what I want to do. My small strobe and often-encumbered running lights seem to indicate a small fishing vessel alongside of or hauling gear. Then a small course change on their part of as little a five degrees will keep their hull clear of any potential fouling gear and, most importantly, clear of my hull. I replaced the single D-cell battery in my fishermans strobe when I left Sint Maarten over three weeks ago and it still is working, as are similar lights on most of the vessels surrounding me here in Juangriego, and I have no intention of turning it off. On another safety matter, datura, called Burundanga in Venezuela, Borrachio in Colombia, and Angels Trumpet or Zombie Cucumber in the English-speaking islands, has hit the nightclub/party scene. Persons under the influence of these nightshade-family drugs can be asked to release passwords, empty bank accounts and engage in sexual acts without their consent or even their full knowledge. The victim cannot say no,Ž says Dr. Camilo Uribe, head of Bogotas foremost toxicology clinic, It is like chemical hypnosis, and from the moment it is given the victim remembers absolutely nothing of what happened.Ž This substance can be given by liquid, cigarette or inhalant. It is tasteless and odorless. So, with the way things are with Burundanga just now, forget sidewalk romance! Flirting with a stranger could lead to a real Lost Weekend. There are probably countless people trying to figure out what happened to them on that long night out that they cant remember when they were not careful with their drinks and woke up penniless and lost. Still no engine, still not a lot of sense, but plenty of success of the stay afloat and be a sailorŽ kind. John Smith Mermaid of Carriacou Dear Compass , After anchoring I usually snorkel out to check on the anchor and after seeing the patterns made by anchor chains as they scour the surface of the seabed have clambered back aboard feeling guilty and a bit depressed knowing that my anchor is going to be doing the same and not knowing what to do about it. I am one of the poorer folk afloat and have been an instigator of campaigns to keep anchoring fees down. Also I have treasured the right to drop my hook wherever I like. But those days are gone because we pleasure cruisers have already done too much damage in popular anchorages by our numbers, thank-you Mr. GPS. Now I welcome Frank Pearces suggestion in his letter in the July issue of Compass that we should support the provision of moorings in popular anchorages and maybe make some suggestions about their type and maintenance. For example, the moorings in Chaguaramas, Trinidad, are a nightmare. During the several months I used one, I tried every which way to stop the rode winding around the eye and the metal can from banging against the hull. From my favourite watering hole I could watch the can spin in the wake of passing boats. Eventually the rode was so short that when more wake came the yacht yanked its bow straight up. This action had led to the sand screws being pulled out on occasion. It would help me feel that I was getting value for money if the port authorities had leaflets describing their moorings, the installation and the maintenance of them; perhaps even including a recommended method of tying up to them for those of us unfamiliar with that particular type. Julia Bartlett Another Old Fart in Paradise Dear Julia, We asked Sharon McIntosh, General Manager of the Yacht Services Association of Trinidad & Tobago (YSATT), to comment on the mooring situation in Chaguaramas. Her response follows. CC Dear Compass Readers, Chaguaramas is an extremely vibrant multi-use harbour. The yachting community shares the bay with the fishing industry, energy sector, commercial maritime industry and local pleasure boat users. At all times, there are high levels of activity in the bay. Owing to the large and varied number of marine craft using Chaguaramas Bay, the Yacht Services Association of Trinidad and Tobago (YSATT) was mandated by the Marine Pilots to restrict the anchoring of yachts to a specific zone and provide clearly defined access channels to the inner parts of the bay. Maritime Services Division, the Marine Pilots and YSATT worked together to establish this anchorage zone. YSATT responded by establishing moorings to demark two entrance channels „ one runs east/west along the northern shore and the other runs north/south along the eastern shoreline, that is, along CrewsInns ship dock. Within this area, yachts may go on anchor or rent one of the moorings that have been placed and are managed by YSATT. There are moorings in the bay that have been placed and are managed by private persons, however, the YSATT moorings are the only moorings approved and recognised by Maritime Services Division and the Marine Pilots Association. YSATT cannot account for moorings placed by other persons and users of these other moorings must be aware of this. Once a yacht takes up a YSATT mooring, the procedure is to immediately register with the YSATT office. Upon registration, the office supplies Information for UsersŽ to the cruiser with the following information: 1) Each mooring consists of a 2,000-pound (approximately) concrete block, one-inch-thick nylon rope and three-eighths-inch chain attached to an orange floating buoy. There is a steel hoop at the top of the buoy for attachment of the boats bow rope. All moorings are clearly marked with YSATTŽ and a number. 2) There are only six to eight feet of extra line (scope) between the mooring block and the buoy. If users prefer to lift the mooring buoy slightly above the water to prevent banging, the buoy MUST be released at least 12 to 15 feet from the boat in times of bad weather. This allows the boat to ride the waves without lifting the mooring block. For this reason, when a boat is left unattended on an YSATT mooring, even for just a few hours, the buoy must be released by 12 to 15 feet. Chaguaramas Bay can be subject to unpredictable weather, particularly between the months of June to November. 3) Boats that weigh more than 15 tons or have particularly large superstructures are not permitted to use the moorings. 4) Moorings are available on a first-come-first-served basis. Boats are welcome to attach to an available mooring but must register at the YSATT office, located in the Shipwrights Building at Crews Inn, as soon as possible. The cost of a mooring is TT$30 per day or TT$750 per month (30 days). „Continued on next page Readers Forum Full Service Station:Fuel/Diesel/Gas Laundry Call Station Grocery Ice Cigarettes Cold Drinks Breakfast (Coffee, Croissants) Fishing Items Conveniently located at Carenantilles Dockyard LE MARINTel: +596 74 70 94 Fax: +596 7478 08 Mobile: +696 29 28 12 Open 7am to 7pm Sundays: 7am to 1pm M M M M A A A A R R R R T T T T I I I I N N N N I I I I Q Q Q Q U U U U E E E E B B B B I I I I C C C C H H H H I I I I K K K K S S S S E E E E R R R R V V V V I I I I C C C C E E E E S S S S Voiles AssistanceDidier and MariaLE MARIN/MARTINIQUESails & Canvas (repairs & fabrication) located at Carenantilles dockyardOpen Monday to Friday 8-12am 2-6pm Saturday by appointment tel/fax: (596) 596 74 88 32 e-mail: didier-et-maria@wanadoo.fr Marine Insurance The insurance business has changed. No longer can brokers talk of low rates. Rather,the honest broker can only say, "I'll do my best to minimize your increase!" There is good insurance,there is cheap insurance,but there is no good cheap insurance.You never know how good your insurance is until you have a claim. Then,if the claim is denied or unsatisfactorily settled, it is too late.I have been in the insurance business 40 years, 36 with Lloyds, and my claims settlement record cannot be beat. Fax DM Street Iolaire Enterprises (353) 28 33927 or e-mail: streetiolaire@hotmail.com www.street-iolaire.com

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SEPTEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 43 www.maritimeyachtsales.come-mail: yachts@viaccess.net cell: 340-513-3147 office: 340-0714-6271 fax: 340-777-6272Independent Boatyard St. Thomas, USVISAIL 47 Stevens, 1981$ 210,000 44 Beneteau Oceanis , 1994 $ 185,000 44 CSY walkover, 1978 $ 79,000 42 Hunter Passage, 1995 $ 159,000 42 Catalina MKII, 1996$ 121,900 40 Passport Sloop, 1981 $ 75,000 38 Morgan/Catalina, 1996 $ 119,000 37 C&C, 1985$ 48,600 36 Frers, 1985$ 48,500 36 Cabo Rico Ketch, 1976 $ 28,000 34 Tartan, 1988$ 49,000 POWER 55 Cheoy Lee LRC, 1980$ 329,000 50 Marine Trader, 1980$ 149,000 45 Silverton MY, 2003 $ 415,000 42 Hershine Trawler $ 40,000 42 Cruisers Express, 1999 $ 249,000 41 Sea Ray Express, 2001 $ 245,000 37 Fountaine Pajot Power Cat$ 445,000 27 Grady White, 1997$ 40,000 A&C YACHT BROKERSBOATS FOR SALEPort de plaisance du MARINMARTINIQUEwww.acyachtbrokers.com E-mail: acyb@wanadoo.fr „Continued from previous page 5) The moorings are checked every four months to ensure that they are in good condition. If necessary, maintenance work is carried out at that time. Should you notice any problem or wear, please report this immediately to the YSATT office. We have also posted information about the moorings on our website at www.ysatt.org and in the YSATT office. At the YSATT office, we are always ready to listen to and discuss the concerns of the visiting cruisers and encourage cruisers to provide us with constructive feedback in order for us to improve our service to them. Kind regards, Sharon McIntosh, General Manager Yacht Services Association of Trinidad & Tobago Dear Compass , I thought that your other readers might be interested in some background to Stephen NaraŽ Bourassas article Prankster PilotsŽ in Julys edition. Steve is one of the Caribbeans characters. He wanders around, often shoeless or in odd flip-flops, maintaining his boat with ingenuity. If you dont need something, Steve will find a use for it or will pass it along to someone else along with a helping hand in fitting it. I would class him as a sailor rather than a cruiser and he is one of lifes gentlemen. What shone through the whale tale was his immense experience, compared to most of us, in sailing these waters and his familiarity and comfort at close quarters with the some of the largest wild creatures left on the planet. Steve told me this story and many others back in Trinidad but he was a bit shy about taking up my suggestion to send them to Compass . I am pleased that he overcame that shyness and I hope that other readers enjoy them as much as I did. Nice one, Steve. Julia Bartlett Still Boatless in Paradise Dear Compass , After reading the article Common Sense, Common Knowledge and Common DecencyŽ in Julys Compass , the pencil touched the pad and I couldnt help myself! Sincerely, Bela Almeida Merlin of Seixal Dear Compass Readers, We want to hear from YOU! Please include your name, boat name or address, and a way we can contact you if clarification is required. We do not publish individual consumer complaints or individual regatta results complaints. (Kudos are okay!) We do not publish anonymous letters; however, your name may be withheld in print at your request. Letters may be edited for length, clarity and fair play. Send your letters to: sally@caribbeancompass.com or fax (784) 457-3410 or Compass Publishing Ltd. Readers Forum Box 175BQ Bequia St. Vincent & the Grenadines Retired Cruiser Shares the DreamMillie and Earl OLaughlin, of Rochester, New York, set sail in 1982 to cruise full time aboard their Youngsun 35, Sequin . The lived aboard for the next 22 years, spending much of that time in the Eastern Caribbean. Millie lost Earl to cancer in 2003. The year before, Earl had made his last trip: a return to Grenada to prepare Sequin for sale. It was sold to a British couple with a similar dream of using early retirement to sail the world. Although no longer cruising, Millies heart is still at sea. According to an article by Mike McLaughlin in the July 19th edition of the Laurel Leader newspaper of Laurel, Maryland, Millie now gives a weekly presentation, Sailing Aboard SequinŽ, for residents of Morningside House Assisted Living Center. Every Wednesday, the octogenarian recalls one of the many places she and Earl visited by using detailed recollections, plus charts, photos and other visual aids. McLaughlin wrote: Millie knows the map of the world like the back of her hand. And like any good sailor, she knows the work involved in making the time between places enjoyable, despite the distances traveled. She makes the world smaller for her listeners, and allows them to experience the joy of the journey. What really makes Sailing Aboard Sequin work, however, is Millies love of the places shes been and the people she has met. And of course, her love of sailing.Ž Friends can contact Millie at mnolaughlin@verizon.net. ALMEIDA

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SEPTEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 44 A&C Yacht BrokersMartinique43 Admiral Yacht InsuranceUK28 Aikane TrinidadTrinidad7 Art FabrikGrenada40 B & C Fuel DockPetite Martinique19 Bahia Redonda MarinaVenezuela10 Barefoot Yacht ChartersSt. Vincent28 Bichik ServicesMartinique42 Bogles Round HouseCarriacou4 BougainvillaUnion Isand26 Budget MarineSint Maarten2 BVI Yacht SalesTortola45 Canvas ShopGrenada40 Caraibe GreementMartinique13 Caraibe YachtsGuadeloupe42 CarenantillesMartinique12 Carene ShopMartinique11 Caribbean Propellers Ltd.Trinidad7 Caribbean Star AirlinesAntigua38 Caribbean YachtingSt. Lucia29 CIRExpressSt. Maarten39 Cooper MarineUSA29 Corea's Food Store MustiqueMustique39 Curaçao MarineCuraçao35Dockwise Yacht Transport Sarl Martinique22 Dominica Marine CenterDominica21 Dopco Travel Grenada37 Down Island Real EstateCarriacou41 Doyle Offshore SailsTortola16 Doyle Offshore SailsBarbados1 Doyle's GuidesUSA41 Echo Marine Jotun SpecialTrinidad5 Errol Flynn MarinaJamaica27 First MateTrinidad18Flamboyant Beachside TerraceGrenada41 Flamboyant Owl BarGrenada41 Flying Fish VenturesGrenada31 Food FairGrenada41 Grenada MarineGrenada15 Grenadines SailsBequia4 Horizon Yacht ManagementTortola23 Iolaire EnterprisesUK 6 / 42 Island DreamsGrenada40 Island Water WorldSint Maarten48 Johnson HardwareSt. Lucia20 Jones MaritimeSt. Croix6 JYAGrenada4 KP MarineSt. Vincent8 Lagoon Marina HotelSt. Vincent36 Latitudes & AttitudesUSA39 Mac's PizzaBequia33 Maritime Yacht SalesSt. Thomas43 McIntyre Bros. LtdGrenada8 Mid Atlantic Yacht ServicesAzores8 NavimcaVenezuela21 Northern Lights GeneratorsTortola17 Peake Yacht BrokerageTrinidad43 Perkins EnginesTortola4 Petit St. VincentPSV32 Ponton du BakouaMartinique11 Porthole RestaurantBequia28 Renaissance MarinaAruba47 Santa Barbara ResortsCuraçao34 Sea and SailGuadeloupe47 Silver DivingCarriacou19 Simpson Bay MarinaSt. Maarten37 Soper's Hole MarinaTortola30 Spice Island MarineGrenada14 St. Thomas Yacht SalesSt. Thomas45 SuperwindGermany10 SVG AirSt. Vincent33 Thomas Peake & SonsTrinidad7 Tikal Arts & CraftsGrenada31 Trade Winds CruisingBequia29 True Blue BayGrenada15 Turbulence SailsGrenada14 Tyrrel Bay Yacht HauloutCarriacou19 VemascaVenezuela10 Virgin Gorda Yacht HarbourVirgin Gorda36 Voiles AssistanceMartinique42 Wallilabou AnchorageSt. Vincent18 Xanadu MarineVenezuela10 YSATTTrinidad9 ADVERTISERS INDEX ADVERTISERLOCATIONPG# ADVERTISERLOCATION PG# ADVERTISERLOCATION PG# ADVERTISERLOCATION PG# CLASSIFIEDS Simpson Cat 40' 175K, Trinidad, Tel (868) 739-6449 BRISTOL 35 1974 Alden designed classic. As of '05 new sails, new Imron paint, new thruhulls, bottom job, new head, Harken roller furling, new bilge pumps & electronics, shoal draft, in Caribbean and ready to cruise $35K Email ybutt2002@yahoo.com ENDEAVOUR 38 in Trinidad excellent condition, cruise in comfort at a fraction of the price. Northern Lights generator, wind, solar, chart plotter, Autohelm 6000, Stoboom main furling, cockpit enclosure and much more. Engines recently overhauled, new paint. E-mail donkirkwood@yahoo.com or www.yachtworld.com STEELEYE 43' STEEL KETCH , built by Garcia in 1984. Family boat with space, grace & pace. Now needing restoration she is seriously for sale as is, where is, lying Carriacou, US$30,000 for details & pictures Tel (473) 404-4305/443-6434 E-mail designsteeleye@yahoo.com MASTS TURBULENCE GRENADA has 3 masts suitable for mono/multihulls. 16-17 & 22 meters. Tel (473) 439-4495/415-8271E-mail turbsail@spiceisle.com GAS STOVE 4 burner, large oven, good condition Size 30"x35"x26" EC$1400 Tel (784) 457-3646FRIENDSHIP BAY, BEQUIA Lovely 1250 sq ft. cottage, 100 yards from beach. 2 master bedrooms, 1 guest bedroom, full kitchen, laundry, level with road no stairs! 12,558 sq ft of land, fenced with mature PROPERTY FOR SALE MISC. FOR SALE fruit trees. US$320,000, Term rental available. E-mail jocelyne.gautier@wanadoo.fr CARRIACOU, ONE ACRE LOTS and multi acre tracts. Great views overlooking Southern Grenadines and Tyrrel Bay www.caribtrace.com PROPERTY FOR SALE at Bells Point, Lower Bay, Bequia. House and Land. Serious buyers only. Sale by owner. Call (784) 456 4963 after 6pm. PUERTO LA CRUZ, VENZ. INSURANCE SURVEYS, electrical problems and yacht deliveries. Tel Cris Robinson (58) 416-3824187 E-mail crobinson@telcel.net.ve PET MOTEL & SPA True Blue, Grenada. Boarding for almost any type of pet from dogs & cats to birds and hamsters. Grooming for dogs & puppies bathing, dematting, trimming, cleaning eyes & ears, cutting nails, etc. For details call Andrea Tel (473) 420-1874NIMRODS RUM SHOP, GRENADAEggs, bread, cheese, ice on sale. Taxi service available, propane tank fill-up, personal laundry service. Happy Hour every day from 56pm Moonlight party every full moon. VHF 16 COMPASS POINT MARINA, ST. THOMAS has deep and shallow slips available for long term, short term and transient rental. We also have large lockers, Artists Studios and Office Space available at reasonable rates. Tel (340) 775-6144 E-mail kevin@compasspointmarina.comWATERMAKERS Complete systems, membranes, spares and service available at Curacao and Puerto La Cruz, Venezuela. Check our prices at www.watercraftwatermaker.com In PLC Tel (58) 416-3824187COMMERCIAL DIVERS Caribbean based diving company looking for qualified/experienced commercial divers for project in the Grenadines. Send CV with summary of training/experience E-mail divepro122@yahoo.com WANTED SERVICES DUFOUR 34, 2006 perfect condition, well equipped, ready for regatta management and charter possibilities, good revenue garanteed, lying Guadeloupe, 150K$ www.seaandsail.fr E-mail seasail@wanadoo.fr Tel (590) 590 207-524 31' (9.35M) MURIA 1992 Bermuda sloop. Popular So. Africa design by Oswald Beckmeyer, built by Z-Craft in Durban, S.A. Yanmar 2GM20, Zetus manual windlass, many extras for cruising. Berthed at Grenada Yacht Club. Contact Selwyn Tel (473) 435-4174 30' ACHILLES SLOOP fiberglass, built in England 1974. Attractive wood interior, new cushion covers, auxillary powered by 4 stroke 6hp OB, fast, excellent liveaboard. Located St. John, USVI US$10,000 Tel (340) 277-8884 CANOUAN STAR Catamaran 12m x 6.6m x 6000kg, 2 x 27cv engines. Marc Espagnon design, built by La Griffe Marine. Revolutionary boat in good condition and reasonably priced at US$60K/neg. For more info call Olliver or Dalli Tel (784) 458-8888 PEARSON 30' BUILT 1973 , new Yanmar 2GM20, new Awlgrip, 2 jibs, 2 mains, spinnaker, TV, CD, wheel steering, lots more. Good condition US$30,000 E-mail nicola111@bequia.net CMS YACHT BROKER , Hallberg Rassy 15' US$350K, Hallberg 45' POA, Bavarian 44' 135 Euro, Grand Soleil 52' US4285K, San Juan 34' 50K, Van der Stadt 40' 139K, Pearson 36' 45K, Custom Ketch 40' 100K, Power Cat 72' POA, Roger Simpson 42' 86K, Craddock 40' 110K, Roger BOATS FOR SALE AFFORDABLE BLUEWATER CRUISING SAILBOAT 28'-40' fair to good condition. Project boat considered. E-mail franciscosavage@yahoo.com CRUISING OPPORTUNITY WANTED I am 58, male, retired, fit and looking for a cruising opportunity for 1 to 3 months in the Nov/Jan timeframe. Have experience, am dependable and easy to get on with. Willing to share sailing, cooking, chores and expenses. Contact Bob E-mail rmulcahy@volny.czCAPTAIN NEEDED for high-end Day Sail charter business on St. John, USVI for August, 2007-08 season. Mooring provided for liveaboard. Must have Masters License, STCW, Crowd Control, and Crowd Management. Great pay, plus bonuses for experienced captain. Tel 9340) 998-5564 E-mail sheree@calypsovi.com MARINE TECHNICIAN WANTED IMMEDIATELY Respected marine engineering Co. in Grenada seeking all round experienced technician for electrical, electronics, diesel & water makers. We can assist with work permit. Ideal for cruiser or independent tech looking for the stability of an established company in Grenada. Tel (473) 439-2049 or CV E-mail enzamarine@caribsurf.comHOME RENTAL BEQUIA Private hilltop home available for reasonable rates this winter from mid-Nov to before Easter to casual, flexible and friendly people. A romantic spirit a plus! No enquiries wanted from realtors and agents. Tel (784) 458-3072 E-mail tiare@vincysurf.comEC$1/US 40¢ per word … include name, address and numbers in count. Line drawings/photos accompanying classifieds are EC$20/US$8. Check or International money order in EC$ or US$ payable to Compass Publishing must accompany order. Deadline is the 15th of each CLASSIFIED ADS PROPERTY FOR RENT month, preceding the month of issue. Copy received after deadline will be held for next issue. Send copy, photo and payment to: Compass Publishing, PO Box 175, Bequia, St. Vincent and the Grenadines. Fax: (784) 457-3410 ortom@caribbeancompass.com Your Classified Ad is On-line DONT LEAVE PORT WITHOUT IT CASIMIR HOFFMANN

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SEPTEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 45 P.O Box 638, Road Town, Tortola, British Virgin Islands Tel: 284-494-3260 Fax: 284-494-3535 email: bviyachtsales@surfbvi.comwebsite: www.bviyachtsales.com / Call for a complete list of over 70 boatsSAIL 64 Haj Kutter Schooner, Square Rig, 3 cab/1 hd30$475K 60 Palomba Pilothouse CC, Ketch, 5 cab/2 hd70$119K 58 Boothbay Challenger CC, Ketch, 3 cab/2 hd73$249K 54 Gulfstar 54, 3 cab/2 hd, Luxurious & Spacious86$349K 53 German Frers, Ketch, 3 cab/2 hd01$275K 52 Jeanneau Sun Ody, 3 cab/3 hd, Loaded!03$399K 51 Formosa Cust. Ketch CC, 3 cab/3 hd80$199K 50 Beneteau 50, Cutter, 4 cab/1 crew/5 hd02$329K 49 Ta Chiao CT49, Cutter CC, 2 cab/2 hd85$159K 47 Vagabond, Ketch CC, 2 cab/2 hd87$249K 46 Morgan 461 CC, 3 cab/2 hd82$ 87K 46 Kelly Peterson KP46 CC, Cutter, 2 cab/2 hd88$249K 46Formosa Peterson Cutter, 2 cab/2 hd79$119K 46 Hunter 460, 3 cab/2 hd 2 avail.from00$139K 45Jeanneau Sun Ody. 3 cab/3 hd99$149K 45Jeanneau Sun Ody, 2-3 cab/2 hd01$158K 45 Bombay Explorer, 2 cab/2 hd World Cruiser78$ 59K 45 Hunter Marine Passage CC, 2 cab/2 hd98$149K 44 Beneteau 44CC, 2 cab/2 hd, In Great Shape94$189K 44 CSY 44CC, Cutter 2 cab/2 hd,Reduced … Motivated77$ 85K 44 CSY Walkover CC, 2 cab/2 hd, Great Condition79$165K 43 Jeanneau Sun Od. 3-4 cab/2 hd,2 avail. from01$175K 42 Dufour Gibsea, 3 cab/2 hd, Well Maintained01$125K 42 Hunter Deck Salon, 2 cab/2 hd, New Listing03$199K 41 Morgan 416, Ketch, CC, 2 cab/2 hd83$78K 41 Tayana V42, Sloop, CC, 2 cab/2 hd85$130K 40 Dufour, Sloop, 3 cab/1 hd05$249K 40 Island Packet, Cutter, 2 cab/2 hd, Well Maintained98$219K 40 Beneteau M405, 3 cab/2 hd, Loaded95$119K 40 Bayfield, 2 cab/1 hd, Ketch,Motivated Sellers84$99K 40 Catalina 400, 2cab/2hd, Great Condition95$109K 40 Jeanneau Sun Ody. 3cab/2hd, Well Priced00$112K 40 Jeanneau Sun Ody. 3 cab/2 hd99$109K 39 Tollycraft Fast Passage Cutter, 2 cab/1 hd83$125K 38 Morgan 38 CC, Sloop, 2 cab/1 hd98$ 99K 37 Tartan 3700, 2 cab/1 hd, Upgrades03$219K 37 Jeanneau Sun Ody. 2cab/1hd, Motivated00$109K 36 Beneteau , Sloop, 2 cab/1 hd00$ 69K 36 S2 11.0A, 1 cab/1 Qtr berth/1 hd85$ 49K 36 Tiburon, Cutter/Ketch 1cab/1hd Solid Cruiser76$ 47K 36 B eneteau M362, 2 Cab/1hd, Lowest on Market00 $75K 35 ODay, 2 cab/1 hd, Great Condition87$42K 33 Beneteau 331, Sloop, 2 cab/1 hd01$59K 32 Northshore Vancouver 32, Sloop/Cutter, 1 cab/1 hd87$125K MULTIHULLS 82 Dufour Nautitech 8cab/8hd, Major refit95$895K 46 Fountaine Pajot Bahia 4 cab/4 hd, 2 avail fromƒ01$370K 42 Privilege 42, 4 cab/4 hd00$276K 40Fountaine Pajot Lavezzi, Owners Version03$295K 38 Lagoon 4 cab/4 hd, Meticulous owners01$239K 27 Heavenly Twins, 2 cab/2 hd92$59K POWER 56 Horizon Motor yacht, Immaculate Condition!01$690K 42 Hi-Star Trawler, 2 cab/2 hd88$199K 42 Nova Marine Trawler, Sundeck trawler98$249K 42 Hershine 42, Motor yacht 4 cab/4 head89$99K 36 Heritage East 36 2 cab/2 hd, 2 avail from01$187K 35 Maxum SCR 3500, 2 cab/1 head01$129K 27 Eastern 27 Down East, 1 cab06$99KST. THOMAS YACHTSALESCompass Point Marina, 6300 Est. Frydenhoj, Suite 28, St. Thomas, U.S.V.I. 00802 Tel: (340) 779-1660 Fax: (340) 779-2779 yachts@islands.viSail33 1973 Pearson 10M Sloop, refit, new eng. paint, $ 33,500 37 1973 Irwin Sloop, Perkins 4-108, AC, AP, Genset $ 34,000 40 1984 Endeavour sloop, Well maintained, ready to cruise,$ 95,000 55 1956 Custom Yawl, Excellent charter business, CG cert for 18 $250,000Power26 1991 Grady White, Sailfish, fully equipped$ 42,000 30 1997 Salt Shaker SF, new 250HP Yamahas, cuddy cabin $ 79,000 36 2002 Custom Catamaran, aluminum fishing cat,w/Tuna Tower $125,000 50 1996 Carver CMY, Cat engs. Low hrs, new electronics $249,000Call, fax or visit our website for a complete list of boats for sale www.stthomasyachts.com 38 1992 Marine Trader Sedan, 210HP Cummins A/C $136,900 50 1990 Morgan Catalina, 3 strm + crew, new Yanmar, new chainplates $139,000PICK UP! Ahoy, Compass Readers! When in St. Maarten/St. Martin, pick up your free monthly copy of the Caribbean Compass at any of these locations (advertisers in this issue appear in bold ): Budget Marine Café Atlantico Captn Olivers CIRExpress Electec FKG Rigging Food Center Immigration Simpson Bay Island Water World Marina Fort Louis Sell Simpson Bay Simpson Bay Marina Simpson Bay Yacht Club St. Maarten Sails The Mail Box The Yacht Club Letter of the Month Dear Compass ,The July issues Whats On My Mind contribution, titled Common Sense, Common Knowledge and Common DecencyŽ, claims some common truths that are mostly nonsense „ though Ill bet lots of readers fell for some of them. The Common SenseŽ assertion is that sailing a large, heavy boat in a restricted area is dangerousŽ. Two examples are given. One is of a 32-foot boat sailing into Tyrrel Bay while the writer watched from a floating bar. But moments before, a young girl had slid off the bar to swim back ashore....Ž There, of course, one sees the mortal danger „ which is of twice the weight because its a young girlŽ. Apparently the young girl would not be endangered by a large, heavy boat in a restricted areaŽ coming or going under power . Apparently she was not endangered by all the yacht dinghies blasting back and forth at several times the speed of a sailboat, doing a hundred times the mileage in the anchorage of the occasional yacht sailing in, back and forth all day and late into the night, including to and from the floating bar from which the young girl had slid, where some of the drivers were drinking „ the author himself says he was enjoying a cold oneŽ. I think this is another case of a bored yachtie looking for a cause. Nonetheless, bored yachties (and others looking for cause) endanger my lifestyle. There will eventually come a time when, for instance, sailing into an anchorage is banned. And by then, someone will have noticed that yachts motoring in without a bow thruster also endanger young girls in the water. Unlimited blasting back and forth through the anchorage in dinghies will remain unnoticed „ we need our sporty utility vessels. They are the car we once had in the lifestyle that we are trying to bring with us. Or the lifestyle from which we are commuting, as the case may be. And so, this is all as it should be! The article asserts, many of us know we can competently sail onto and off an anchor, or at least hope we can in an emergency.Ž No! If you are not practiced at sailing in harbors, dont do it when you have an emergency! If you are preoccupied with an emergency and learning to sail in restricted waters, you are endangering the young girl in the water „ and the other yachts! It probably wont endanger her as much as all the dinghy trips for e-mails, faxes, Customs, and such to repair whatever the emergency was, but it will endanger her more than if you knew what you were doing. Likewise, if you cant steer your boat without a bow thruster, dont come in when it is broken. Thats just common sense. The other example is of a yacht sailing out of Rodney Bay under mainsail. The author says it would have been okay under headsail. That shows how open-minded the writer is „ if you do it his way. Raising the main in harbor conditions, however, has serious advantages (effort, comfort, noise, and safety) over raising it in a seaway. But the articles question is, How could the skipper stop the boat if necessary?Ž I could spend several pages answering that (is anybody interested?), mostly things youd want to do instead of stopping, but also, stopping. The writer proposes a ludicrous maneuver and says youd have more chance with a stern anchor or sky hook!Ž Hes right! Stern (or bow) anchors are real good tools! Though probably not for the stated situation. Id stick with the sky hooks, the sails. All sorts of marvelous things can be done under sail, even steering around swimmers! Im not saying that everyone knows how to do it, or that every boat is capable.... The Common KnowledgeŽ section of the article tells us its common knowledge for cruising folk, and should be for all [all?] that the text-book three times scope is a bare minimum....Ž Id burn that text book. But that may explain some of the yachts that drag down on us. Finally, the article gives us a fill on Common DecencyŽ, regarding peeing over the rail „ and worse. Peeing over the rail has already been discussed in the Compass , but since its here again.... He uses the example of a yacht at 20 meters and implies the guy is deliberately peeing toward him. Thats pretty close to be anchored, so there may be some cause and effect here. But thats far enough that anything he actually sees is mostly in his minds eye. Skinny dipping and such are okay, he says, its the not so attractive partsŽ he doesnt like „ which in todays world, is a matter of taste, so to speak. But heres my system: I pee over the rail unless I have close neighbors, or am within, say, 200 meters of shore. Then I use a jar. But if someone anchors close enough that I can fling it onto their boat, I just might. Same thing for dinghies blasting by as close as they can. My range is five to ten meters, depending on the wind. But let me end with this: sailing yacht, motoring yacht, planing dinghy, sailing dinghy, or rowing boat, we are all required to keep a lookout. And the young girl in the water almost always has the right of way. And she should keep a lookout, too.Jim Hutchinson Ambia GUY DEAN

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SEPTEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 46 CALENDAR SEPTEMBER3 Labor Day. Public holiday in Puerto Rico and USVI 6 Bonaire Flag Day. Public holiday in Bonaire; boat races 8 Virgin of the Valley Festival, Venezuela. Religious boat parades 15 International CoastalCleanup Day. Coastal Cleanups in many islands, plus Underwater Cleanup, Bonaire (www.dive-friends-bonaire.com) 17 National Heroes day, Public holiday in St. Kitts & Nevis 19 Independence Day. Public holiday in St. Kitts & Nevis 24 Republic Day. Public holiday in Trinidad & Tobago 26 FULL MOON TBA 24th Annual International Blue Marlin Tournament, Havana, Cuba. CNIHOCTOBER3 Thanksgiving Day. Public holiday in St. Lucia 6 7 Pete Sheals Match Racing, BVI. Royal British Virgin Islands Yacht Club (RBVIYC), tel (284) 494-3286, fax (284) 494-6117, www.rbviyc.net 7 13 40th Bonaire International Sailing Regatta. www.infobonaire.com 8 Columbus Day. Public holiday in Puerto Rico and USVI 10 War of 1868 Anniversary. Public holiday in Cuba 13 Willy T Virgins Cup Race, BVI. RBVIYC 13 5th YSATT Marine Trades Show, Chaguaramas, Trinidad. See ad on page 9. 14 Chinese Arrival Dragon Boat Festival … Kayak Centre, Chaguaramas, Trinidad. maggi1902@wow.net 15 USVI Hurricane Thanksgiving Day (Public holiday in USVI if no hurricanes occurred) 20 22 Trafalgar Race, BVI. RBVIYC 21 Antillean Day. Public holiday in Netherlands Antilles 21 St. Ursulas Day. Public holiday in BVI 21 Blue Food Festival (local cuisine), Bloody Bay, Tobago. 25 Thanksgiving Day. Public holiday in Grenada; boat races 26 FULL MOON 26 28 11th Foxys Cat Fight multihull regatta, Jost Van Dyke. West End Yacht Club (WEYC), Tortola, tel (284) 495 1002, fax (284) 495-4184, mvh@surfbvi.com, www.weyc.net 27 Independence Day. Public holiday in St. Vincent & the Grenadines 30 Independence Day.Public holiday in Antigua TBA Ladies Laser Open, Antigua. Antigua Yacht Club (AYC), tel/fax (268) 460-1799, yachtclub@candw.ag, www.antiguayachtclub.com TBA Laser Team Racing Championship, Antigua. AYCAll information was correct to the best of our knowledge at the time this issue of Compass went to press „ but plans change, so please contact event organizers directly for confirmation. If you would like a nautical or tourism event listed FREE in our calendar, please send the name and date(s) of the event and the name and contact information of the organizing body to €sally@caribbeancompass.com Chaguaramas from a Local Point of Viewby Arlene Walrond A lot has been written about Chaguaramas in the past year or so, most of it negative, mostly about escalating crime in the area. But no one seems to be aware of the real issues that are affecting Chaguaramas from a local standpoint. I decided to write this piece after reading an article in a magazine that caters to the yachting community. The writer was of the notion that Chaguaramas was a wild and uninhabited place when the Americans arrived in 1941. This is very far from the truth. Chaguaramas has a rich history that not many people seem to be aware of. Originally inhabited by Amerindians who named it for the majestic Chaguaramas palms that grew there profusely, many other families later moved in „ these were mainly of African descent with a few whites and some French Creoles. Many villages existed there: Petit Bourg, Nicholas, Haskott, Chaguaramas, Tetron (where Trinidads army barracks are situated) and Larry, to name a few. When Trinidad was under British rule, land was bought under Royal grant directly from the Crown. Ranging in size from one to 377 acres, parcels of land were bought by independent families paying one shilling (24 cents) tax per acre per year. As the United States became involved in the Second World War, the US government gave Great Britain 50 ships in exchange for the right to establish military bases in strategic British colonies: the Bahamas (Great Exuma), Jamaica, Antigua, St. Lucia, British Guiana and Trinidad. When the United States leased the Chaguaramas peninsula from the British Government, signing a 99-year lease in 1940, Chaguaramas was a thriving place with many plantations and holiday homes, and Staubles Bay was the gateway for people from other parts of the country who wished to go down the islandsŽ, that is, visit the islets off Trinidads west coast. According to my sources, the majority, if not all of the homes and other buildings were demolished by the Americans to make way for their specialized military structures. My two uncles worked on the American BaseŽ during the construction period. (I wish they were still alive to tell me what it was like. Its so true what they say: You never miss the water till the well runs dryŽ.) Contrary to media reports over the years, not all former residents received compensation for their lands. I was told this by Mr. Augustine Noel, a former resident of Chaguaramas who was five years old at the time of his familys displacement. He has been at the forefront of a group of people (children and grandchildren of landholders) who have been agitating to get restitution for their properties, and travelled to England to stage a demonstration in front of the Trinidad & Tobago High Commission in July 2006. According to him, their claim is valid since the leases and deeds were not signed on takeover. Some of these leases go as far back as 1886. Mr. Noel says he has documents to support this claim. He also has in his possession documents that prove the disparity with which payment was made to the different racial groups. White residents were given $1,000 per acre while the Africans and others were given as little as $30 per acre. He also claims that some residents got no compensation whatsoever. He believes it was the biggest land scam ever perpetrated in this country. When in 1960 our then Chief Minister, Eric Williams, led a march of protest against the American occupation, the former residents of Chaguaramas (the majority of whom were relocated to Carenage; some went to St. James and Diego Martin) had hopes of regaining their lands. But instead, when the peninsula was finally returned to Trinidad & Tobagos control in 1977, he vested it to the Chaguaramas Development Authority, rather than restoring the properties there to those who had owned them before the war. This was a bitter blow for the former residents who felt cheated „ from being owners of acres of prime agricultural land they were reduced to being 99-year leaseholders of one lot of land barely big enough to fit a house. Apparently its not easy for these people to sit back and look at the development taking place in Chaguaramas today while some of the descendants of the original landowners are struggling to make ends meet and others are turning to drugs and crime. This, then is the bone of contention among former residents „ they want their land back or to be compensated fairly. WHATS ON MY MIND Today, Chaguaramas seems to mean forest of masts, but the area was named for the handsome palms that were once its most prominent featureCASIMIR HOFFMANN

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SEPTEMBER 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 47 PRODUCT POSTINGSLatest Edition of Hurricane Survival Book The newly updated edition of The Cruisers Guide To Hurricane Survival is a practical manual to help you prepare your yacht to weather gale-force to hurricane level storms. This book covers it all „ how to prepare your boat for a storm at the dock, at anchor or hauled out, and the risks of going to sea. Weather websites are listed, along with how to read your barometer and what the numbers mean in terms of wind velocity and duration of the storm. Do you know how to estimate the direction the wind will be blowing? You will when you read this book. There are even recommendations for dealing with insurance issues in the aftermath of a storm. Brad Glidden has lived on his 60-year-old Rhodes sloop in the Caribbean since 1975. He has weathered at least eight hurricanes. With a 100-ton USCG captains license and 25,000 miles at sea in a sailboat, his experience is the basis for sound, detailed advice to prepare your vessel for a storm while minimizing personal risk. For more information visit www.cruisingguides.com. Marine Travelifts Better Boat Mover Marine Travelift Inc has unveiled the latest development in its Mariner forklift series. The Mariner M2500 is capable of lifting an impressive 25,000 pounds, thanks to the Cummins QSB4.5 Tier III engine, which has 130horsepower output; while the four Michelin StabilX XZM wide-track tyres keeps the Mariner M2500 firmly on the ground. The four-speed power shift transmission offers a top speed of 10.8 mph; and the side-mounted cab, with stepped entrance and exit, gives perfect visibility for the operator. For more information visit www.marinetravelift.com. Database-Driven Nautical Website Sail-the-net.com is a site for all things nauticalŽ according to its creators. It is predominantly about yacht chartering worldwide, with a look at different types of yacht charter, reports on yacht charter destinations plus an extensive global marine directory with 2,800 yacht charter companies and a guide to harbours, moorings and anchorages. A basic listing in the directory is free, with enhanced and premium paid listings also available. The site has additional sections that will be of interest to boaters including Sailing Courses and Schools, Boat Jumble, Crew Swap and Gear Guide. All are database-driven, allowing users to post and share information. Check out www.sail-the-net.com. New CD from Ed Teja Former long-time Caribbean cruiser, Compass contributor and musician Ed Tejas new solo CD, Soft Dreaming BluesŽ, is coming out this month from Morrhythm (a label of Outstanding Records) in California. It contains 11 songs and two instrumentals, all loosely categorized as smooth jazz. You can hear the title track on Eds myspace page (see below). All the tunes are originals (some written with cowriters) and the CD will initially be available only via the record companys website www.outstandingmusic.com. However, diehard fans can get an autographed copy for just US$12 including shipping by ordering direct from Ed. Its quite a different musical direction for me, and one I think you will enjoy, too,Ž says Teja.. For more information e-mail EdTeja@gilanet.com or visit www.myspace.com/edteja.

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Published by Compass Publishing Limited, St. Vincent & the Grenadines, and printed by Trinidad Publishing Company Limited