ia E io T
I C Our bagels are baked
1t i fresh every morning!
www.thebagelbarn.com Sa calle poniente #2
Relax...it's just like home!
Yools Bungalo s Rooms Restaurant
All of them filled with filtered sea water which
is in constant renewal. Healthy composition of
seawater does not irritate your eyes, helps your
tan, leaves your skin smooth and looks better,
f as well as diminish skin problems.
from Sunday to Friday
S1 \ Sipacate, La Gomera Escuintla
I V i 1 Just 134 kilometers from Guatemala City
B .. ...n driving on excellent highway
Rancno Carrillo Reservations: 5413-9395,2366-3793,5517-1069
Si quiere participar en la
8a EDIC1ON ANNUAL DE FOTOGRAFIA
de REVUE en enero 2011, por favor
envie sus fotografias en alta resoluci6n
con el titulo/lugar, su nombre,
sitio web o como desea que
aparezca el credito a:
no mas tarde que dic. 10, 2010
Gracias, esperamos con ansias otro
mont6n de imigenes increibles.
If you would like to participate in the
8th ANNUAL PHOTO ISSUE
of the January 2011 REVUE,
please send your HI-RES photos
with caption/location and your name
and website for the credit line to:
no later than December 10, 2010
Thankyou, we look forward to
another batch of incredible images.
m -* A
r1T n II TI i
Exploring the Cloud Forest
Realm of the Resplendent
text and photographs by Thor Janson
Exclusivas casas y lofts, con diseflo clisico colonial
antigiieno, a s61o 5 cuadras del parque.
Listas para entrega inmediata.
Poniente, #23& Antigua Guatemala.
ilkCnran-. ilfl Eimki AifE II
to culture and
Comite de Becas Mary Sue
21 How the Grinch Stole Christmas
21 Celebrating the Sea Turtle
8 From the Publishers
112 Real Estate
117 El Salvador
118 Advertiser Index
ON THE COVER
The Resplendent 4
story on page 10
Art inauguration by Maria Eskenassy
services / shopping
Monterrico / Pacific Coast
Deadline for the
DECEMBER issue ) Nov. 10
WW w.]u l HI O LDD IIu PD. -III
FROM THE PUBLISHERS
We feel privileged and excited
Sto be bringing you this special
edition. For the past 30 years
Thor Janson has dedicated his abilities,
talents and resources to attain a goal that
any rational human would agree with.
Simply put, "To preserve enough cloud
forest habitat in Central America to ensure
that the quetzal may continue to be the
living, legendary symbol of freedom."
Through Janson's writing, anecdotes and
extraordinary photography, we get an ex-
clusive glimpse into the mist-enshrouded
realm of the cloud forest and its fascinating
inhabitants. The most noted, revered and
elusive of all is the Resplendent Quetzal.
Kulkulkin. The Quetzal-Serpent. Guate-
mala's national bird and the name of its
money. The quetzal appears again and again
throughout Maya tradition, lore and art.
The Maya even used the exquisite feathers
Just as Thor has woven an image for us,
we have woven his incredible stories and
photographs throughout the magazine. For
the story line just follow the ..continuedon page....
For his other photos, flip through the pages.
You will find his biography on page 10.
We thank Thor for sharing his passion
with us and we hope you enjoy this issue.
John & Terry IKovick 'Biskovich
A reminder to photographers:
if you would like to participate in the
Revue 8th Annual Photo Issue (January,
2011) please submit your photos to
no later than December 10, 2010.
Guatemala's English-language Magazine
Publishers: John &Terry Kovick Biskovich
Editor: Matt Bokor
Staff Writer: Dwight Wayne Coop
Art Director/Graphic Design: Rudy A. Gir6n
Proofreader: Jennifer Rowe
Club Fotografico de Guatemala: www.clubfotografico.org
La Antigua Manager: CesarTian
Production Director: Mercedes Mejicanos
Administrative Assistant: Alma Diaz Castillo
Systems: Jose Caal, Luis Juarez, Diego Alvarez
Distribution: Cesar Tian, Oscar Chac6n, Luis Toribio
Maintenance: Silvia Gomez, Maria Solis
Sales Representatives: Ivonne Perez, CesarTian,
Denni Marsh, Fernando Rodas, Lucy Longo de Perez,
Lena Johannessen, Lesbia Leticia Macal Elias
RevueWebmaster: Rudy A. Gir6n
Printed by: PRINT STUDIO
Publishing Company: SAN JOAQUIN PRODUCCIONES, S.A.
6a calle poniente #2 (Central Office)
PBX: (502) 7931-4500
Av. La Reforma 8-60, z.9, Edif. Galerias Reforma,
1 level, Of. #105 Tel: (502) 7931-4500
SAN CRISTOBAL: Denni Marsh Tel: 2478-1649 Fax: 2485-5039
EL SALVADOR firstname.lastname@example.org
El Salvador Regional Manager: Lena Johannessen
Col. Centroamerica Calle San Salvador #202, San Salvador
TelFax: (503) 2260-7475, 2260-1825 Cel: 7981-4517
Opinions or statements printed in the REVUE are not necessarily
those of the publishers. We welcome your comments.
20,000 issues monthly
REVUE is distributed free, and available at:
Hotels, Restaurants, Travel Agencies, Car Rental Agencies,
Embassies, Spanish Schools, INGUAT offices, Shops,
and other public places in the following areas:
Guatemala City, La Antigua, Quetzaltenango, Lake Atitlan,
Coban, Peten, Rio Dulce, Livingston, Monterrico, Retalhuleu;
as wellaslocations in El Salvador, Honduras, and Belize.
PRINT MOBILE ONLINE
PBX: (502) 7931-4500
'First seen in 1973, he became a common jungle personage. Like Lord Greystoke, he was suckled by
the wild beasts, crowned his head with the iridescent feathers ofquetzal, and drank directly from
the fountains of origin. Navigator, explorer, biologist, photographer, author, synergetic geometrician,
he walked in boustrophedon the four cardinal points, leaving testimony ofhis path everywhere.'
Sensei Manuel Corleto
AUTHOR/ PHOTOGRAPHER BIO
Oliver Thor Janson is a wildlife
conservationist who uses photography as a
tool to promote environmental education,
his life passion.
Born in Chicago, the son of a Swedish im-
migrant father and an Irish-Chippewa In-
dian mother, Thor began his career as an
explorer at the age of four when he ventured
out on his tricycle far beyond the home ter-
ritory. At the police station, he was asked to
reveal the names of his parents but little 01-
lie could only repeat the names of the two
beloved dogs who had raised him: "Jimi,
Pepe, Jimi, Pepe."
Childhood was spent between Chicago and
the forests of Northern Michigan. Ollie
took an early interest in nature studies and
loved to keep snakes as pets. From the age of
six Ollie summered at Camp Charlevoix in
the pristine boreal forest near Traverse City.
One dawn, he hurried down for the daily
reveille, flag raising and inspection by the
lake shore and stood in a line with the 300
other scouts. Inspection involved the camp
nurse checking to see if your fingernails and
ears were clean. When she came to little O1-
lie she suddenly screamed at the top of her
lungs. A water snake, ...contnued on page 34
Flysafely, fly TACAREGIONAL
We invite you to discover
the wonders of Guatemala li
origin /ei i Fg D au A il e n
4 i ,
Exploring the Cloud Forest Realm
of the Resplendent Quetzal-Serpent
text and photographs by Thor Janson
It has been five days since I last saw
the sun in my quest to observe
and photograph the resplendent
quetzal. Now I really know why
they call this cloud forest! I'm up
near the ridge of the Sierra Yalihux in the
mountains of Alta Verapaz at an elevation
of 7,000 feet. A bank of clouds has settled
around the mountaintop and doesn't want
Sitting by the open fire in the middle of our
little hut this evening, I give thanks that I
am in here, cozily writing, instead of outside
in a dank tent. Our host, whose name is
Rosendo Chun Pop, is a Kek'chi Indian.
Since he has no knowledge of Spanish
and I have only the most rudimentary
understanding of his Mayan dialect, our
communication is limited to gestures and
smiles. But, as we sit sipping sweet coffee,
he seems happy to share his little cabin and
warming fire with us and his smiles and
twinkling eyes convey his friendliness better
than words ever could.
The temperature outside is probably around
450 Fahrenheit, but the wet-cold of the
clouds makes it feel like it is below freezing.
I am here in the mountains of Verapaz with
naturalist Ver6nica Chavajay, a 34-year-old
Guatemalan native from Santa Clara La
According to documents left by the Spanish missionary Bartolome de las Casas,
to kill a quetzal was a capital offense:
"In the province of Verapaz they punish by death they who killed the bird with
the rich plumes because it was not found in other places and these feathers
were of great value because they used them as money":
Laguna in Sololi province, a town perched
above the sacred waters of Lake Atitlan.
Her ancestry includes both Mayan and
Spanish elements. From an early age she has
pursued an avid interest in studying nature
and bush medicine; we share an interest in
studying the quetzal in its natural habitat.
A CAPITAL OFFENSE
SIthough ornithologists have hailed the
f quetzal as the most spectacular bird
in the Americas, few people, outside of
the natives who live in the highland forests
of Central America, have ever seen the
emerald serpent bird.
The reason is simple: The cloud forest
habitats of the quetzal only remain in the
most remote and inaccessible regions where
the weather is unusually inclement. Also,
the bird has become increasingly rare and
surreptitious due to human depredation.
This is in sharp contrast to the way it
was before the conquest. According to
documents left by the Spanish missionary
Bartolomd de las Casas, to kill a quetzal was
a capital offense:
"In the province of Verapaz they punish
When the Spanish conquistadors visited the Aztec capital of Tenochtitlan, they
found the rulers, priests and dignitaries wearing elaborate headdresses made from
quetzal feathers. Bernal Diaz, who chronicled the conquest of "New Spain," de-
scribed how the great Montezuma, when he came to meet Cortes, was shaded by a
huge canopy of quetzal feathers.
by death they who killed the bird with the
rich plumes because it was not found in
other places and these feathers were of great
value because they used them as money."
The Maya had a symbolic system of colors:
black for weapons, obsidian; yellow for food,
corn; red for war; and blue for sacrifice. But
the royal color was green, the color of Kukul
-the serpent bird.
Highland Indians were allowed to trap
the birds and remove their tail feathers
(which grow back each year) but they were
forbidden to kill or keep them captive. After
the cacao bean, which was used as a form
of currency, the commodity that probably
contributed most to the native's wealth were
When the great Mayan cities fell the
highlanders continued to trade quetzal
feathers with the Aztec capital of Tenoch-
titlan, where Mexico City now stands.
When the Spanish conquistadors visited
the Aztec city they found rulers, priests and
dignitaries wearing elaborate headdresses
made from quetzal feathers.
Bernal Diaz, who chronicled the conquest
On the other side of the Motagua Valley a series of switchbacks took us up into the
mountains of Verapaz. Gradually, the sweltering desert gave way to pine forest and
then cool evergreen broad-leaf forest. An hour later we stopped in the little town of
Tactic and had lunch.
of "New Spain," described how the great
Montezuma, when he came to meet Corts,
was shaded by a huge canopy of quetzal
feathers. But Montezuma made a fatal
error. According to ancient texts left by
the Mexica, Quetzalcoatl, man or god, had
promised to return from the East in the year
1-reed (1519), and this was 1-reed.
Assuming that the Spanish who landed on
the coast of Veracruz were the returning
gods, the Aztec emperor failed to prepare a
defense. Before he knew what had happened,
Cortes and his mangy army of 400 had
defeated and sacked Tenochtitlin. And
along with plundered gold, silver and gems,
sent back to the courts of Europe were the
exquisite plumes of the quetzal.
Before long there was a growing demand for
the feathers. No longer would the serpent
bird be protected. The new rulers declared
them to be free game.
By the 16th Century central Europe had
been largely deforested and the Spanish
found a ready market for fine tropical
hardwoods. And so they began a process of
desertification that continues today.
WeS observed many l s k-
bl toucan, f s of li S e g e p ts
and several colonie of SS SSe
idnifal by thi stag net whc l-ook5
like miitr ha mok hagn hig upi
hu- kapo tres
Mary Sue Morris, born in Amarillo,
Texas, came to La Antigua in 1981 to
learn Spanish. She fell in love with the
country and in 1993 she came back, purchased
some land and built the impeccably appointed
Posada del Angel and the Joyeria del Angel, both
very successful businesses in Antigua.
When she became very ill she chose a group
of friends to make up the board of directors of
what had been her dream-a scholarship pro-
gram for very poor children in rural Guatemala.
She knew this group of friends would make good
use of the funds and would work as volunteers.
Mary Sue passed away in March 2007 having
set up a trust fund for Comite de Becas Mary Sue.
The mission of Comite de Becas Mary Sue is
to give Guatemalan children, who otherwise
would not get an education, the opportunity to
go to school.
The committee chose a school in Chichi-
castenango where the 45 scholarship recipients,
pre-school through first-year bdsico, could attend
school and receive an education. The scholarships
cover the cost of tuition, books and uniforms.
The committee does follow-up visits by trav-
eling to Chichi to get to know and encourage
the children with their studies. Since many of
the parents had no schooling, the children don't
45 children receive their scholarship onstage
receive much guidance or understand the value
of an education. The committee meets with the
children, teachers, supervisors and parents to
promote the program.
It has also provided an internet connection for
the school, allowing web access for 19 new Dell
computers that were donated by another entity.
After committee members heard many of the
students shouting, "We want to learn English!"
when they were visiting the school, they found a
local English teacher to give lessons.
The Psychology Department of the Univers-
idad del Valle de Guatemala has been working
with the committee to help motivate the chil-
dren, and more importantly to give them tools to
learn problem-solving skills, as well as guidelines
to eliminate bullying. Del Valle also works with
the teachers and parents, who are delighted with
To help pay for continued assistance from del
Valle, proceeds from the annual performances
of Handel's Messiah will be donated to the pro-
gram. Performances will be Nov. 30 at the Na-
tional Theatre in Guatemala City and on Dec.
1 at Casa Santo Domingo in La Antigua. Both
performances will begin at 7:30 p.m. IO
For more information contact Agnes Arathoon
de Molina at or
Irene de Grinnell at s. .',;....... ., gmail.com
I,.- jrri ii rii i i. rn r .- f Handel's Messiah will be held on Nov. 30 at the National Theatre in Guatemala City and on
I Dec. 1 at Casa Santo Domingo in La Antigua. Both performances will begin at 7:30 p.m.
Proceeds from this year's performance will benefit Comite de Becas Mary Sue, which provides scholarships to needy
children in the Chichicastenango area.
Performing this year will be J.J. Hobbs, soprano; Carlos Cardona, baritone; Sam Lowry, tenor; and Liz Cass, mezzosoprano.
An addition to this year's program will be The TrumpetShallSound with trumpeter Randy Sonntag ofJupiter, Florida.
Tickets will be available on Nov. 1 and prices will be Q200 for plateau and Q60 for balcony at the National Theatre;
Q300 for preferential and Q200 for general at Casa Santo Domingo.
Tickets can be purchased in Guatemala City at Geminis bookstore, Zurich's Chocolateria, Sophos Bookstore, IGA
and the National Theatre; in Antigua tickets can be purchased at Joyeria del Angel and Casa Santo Domingo.
T his will be the Grinch's
third year in his attempt
to steal Christmas, and this
time he's going to try in November and again in
December. You know how he flies into the most
horrible rage when he hears the sounds of happy
people in Cualcuiertenango getting ready to cel-
"No! No! No! They cannot be allowed to en-
joy themselves. They must be stopped."
Get ready to come and see if he will succeed
or if, wonder of wonders, maybe Christmas will
You know there's a sad and sorry family of
grinches out there. They come in all different col-
ors-not just green. They are persons united only
by their insecurity and the pleasure they get try-
ing to infect others. The quality of "grinchiness"
knows no limitations of age, sex, color or prefer-
ence in popsicles. You can find them everywhere.
You recognize them by their cynicism, insensitiv-
ity, selfishness and mean-spiritedness. The most
dangerous are the ones who don't realize the effect
they have on others. Watch out! There's probably
one quite close right now!
This year we have an international cast to em-
phasize the international theme of the Grinch.
Some 25 dancers, lots of helpers, the host and host-
ess, Max the dog, Masha the poodle and the narra-
tor are all Chapines. The Grinch is apanza verde!
The production manager is Paloma P6rez-
Templado from Spain; the artistic director is Mer-
cedes Blanco from Cuba; Bette van Lunteren, the
choreographer, is Dutch; Deborah DuFlon, in
charge of theatrical design and costumes, is U.S-
Guatemalan; Johnny Long, the producer is U.S.-
U.K.; and the one who distorted the portraits so
Whoville-like is Annette Weld, from England.
This just goes to show that without grinchi-
ness, everyone can get along just fine! 0
See DateBook forperformance schedules.
Information tel: 7832-1884
Weekend festival aims to
preserve a natural treasure
Wfith a goal of protecting the endangered sea
W turtle, an environmental group is plan-
ning a weekend festival Nov. 26-28 with events
centered around the Monterrico-Hawaii Natural
Preserve on Guatemala's Pacific coast.
Coinciding with peak turtle-nesting season,
the Festival de la Tortuga 2010 (Turtle Festival
2010) will feature turtle releases, nature tours,
concerts, arts and crafts, a horse show, sporting
events, fun activities for children and much more.
There will also be an exhibition of images
from the Guatemala Photo Club on Nov. 6-7,
from 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. at El Sitio in La Antigua.
The events, as well as a long-term campaign
to protect sea turtles, are being organized by
the Fundacidn Eterna Primavera (Eternal Spring
Foundation Director Thomas Stutzer said
festival organizers hope .111 ,.. who have turtle
eggs will come to the Nov. 26-28 event and sell
them to the environmental group. Stutzer said
80 percent of sea turtle eggs are stolen from Gua-
temala's beaches and sold for consumption. 0
More information: www.festivaldelatortuga.info
or to book lodging for the festival see
www. visitmonterrico. corn
Inewy I IdLIUU LUrL Inedub LU &ed (PHUIU BY LAKLUS VLtA)
revuemag.com ( 21
2Tues., 5:30pm (English) TALK:
Ninos de Guatemala, building a better
future for Guatemala: challenges and op-
portunities for education. In January 2009,
NDG opened a primary school, Nuestro Fu-
turo, in Ciudad Vieja, offering access to edu-
cation for children from under-privileged
families. Donation Q25. Rainbow Caf6 (tel:
7832-1919) 7a av. sur #8, LaAntigua.
Thurs., 7pm ART: Exposition of
recent works by artist Francisco Gar-
cia. Galeria El Tunel (tel: 2367-3284) Plaza
Obelisco, z. 10, Guatemala City. V
4Thurs., through Sat., 27th ART:
Colecciones Particulares, works by several
artists. El Attico, Sala Principal (tel: 2368-
0853) 4a av. 15-45, z. 14, Guatemala City.
4 Thurs., 7pm -
Canciones por la
Vida by Orquestina
flute, transversal flute, guitar, banjo, bat-
tery, drums, piano, xylophone, violin and
mandolin. Donation Q50. El Sitio (tel:
7832-3037), LaAntigua. V
5Fri. & Sat. 6, 7-9pm (English/Span-
ish) READING, Q &A, BOOK
PRESENTATION: An Evening with
Naticksqw, Chief Caring Hands. Come
meet Naticksqw of the Praying Indians
speak about her historic tribe along with
readings from her
new book, The Words
of the Father. Free.
(Book Q240 plus
IVA). El Sitio (tel:
tigua. See Highlight,
Revue Oct. 2010, on-
6Sat. & Sun. 7, llam-7pm PHO-
TOGRAHY: Tortuga Marina by Eter-
na Primavera Foundation, within the Tur-
tle Festival 2010. Free. El Sitio (tel: 7832-
3037), LaAntigua. See page 21 v
6Sat., 11am ART: Danzando el Ve-
nado en Atitldn, collective show by
several painters from the Highlands. Cole-
gio Mayor Santo Tomis de Aquino, la av.
norte #23, LaAntigua.
6Sat., 6-9pm WINE TASTING:
A Taste for Charity, organized by the
American Society of Guatemala; proceeds
benefit Fotokids and Wings. Palacio de
Dofia Leonor (tel: 7832-2281) 4a calle ori-
ente #8, La Antigua.
Mon., through Fri., 12 -ART: Exhi-
bition of works by ambidextrous artist
Hyona Angie Chung. Museo Ixchel, 6a ca-
lle final, z. 10, Centro Cultural Universidad
Francisco Marroquin, Guatemala City. V
8Mon. & Tues., 9th, 6pm THE-
ATER: C . : Children by Rich-
ard Stewart, performed by 12th graders
and directed by Fernando Mencos. Audi-
torium McVean, Admission: Donation for
Safe Passage (Camino Seguro). American
School of Guatemala, Vista Hermosa III, z.
15, Guatemala City.
9Tues., 5:30pm (English) TALK:
Cultural Survival is partnering with
Guatemalan NGOs to strengthen a network
of 140 community radio stations across the
country, many of which broadcast in indig-
enous languages. Donation Q25. Rainbow
Cafe (tel: 7832-1919), LaAntigua.
1 OWed., 5pm ART: Inauguration
10of Journey of Harmony, images cap-
turing the Buddhist spirit, by photographer
Mitchell Denburg, celebrating 45 years as
a photographer. Mes6n Panza Verde (tel:
7832-2925) 5a av. sur #19, LaAntifua. V
11 Thurs., 7pm DANCE: Noche de
Danza Acaddmica, by dancers from
the Danza Academica en Guatemala y
Centroamerica. Q15. Colegio Mayor Santo
Tomis de Aquino, la av. norte #23, LaAn-
Plae umt orDAEOO nryfrth E
l Thurs., 6pm PHOTO EXPO/
SALE & MUSIC: The Madre Proj-
ect, presented by Camino Seguro plus gui-
tar concert. Free. El Sitio (tel: 7832-3037)
5a calle poniente #15, LaAntigua. v
1 Thurs., 8:30pm ART: Inaugu-
ration of The Art of War: Warriors,
Prophets and Women of Power by artist
Maria Eskenassy. Galeria de Arte Rocio
Quiroa (tel: 2360-2935) 11 calle 3-36, z.
10, Guatemala City. v
12 Fri., 8pm MUSIC: Canciones de
SSiempre, a romantic evening by Ale-
jandro Vidal and Roberto Estrada. Q70. El
Sitio (tel: 7832-3037) 5a calle poniente #15,
S Fri. & 19 & 26, Fri. Dec. 3,
1 9:30am-12:30pm (Spanish)
WORKSHOP: Transform objects into real
works of art, given by well-known artist
Sergio Valenzuela, Valenz. Donation Q990.
Museo Ixchel, 6a calle final z. 10, Centro
Cultural Universidad Francisco Marroquin,
1 Sat., all day VOLCAN DE
IJ AGUA CLIMB: 13 Black Tears
combines art, culture and local participa-
tion in order to promote environmental
conservation and protection. Everyone wel-
come to join in, for more information con-
tact Aida Aguilar (tel: 5720-9855) Espacio
para las Artes Libdlula.
1 2Sat., through Thurs., 18th ART:
J Espacios Suspendidos by artist Alfredo
Garcia. El Attico, Sal6n del Coleccionista
(tel: 2368-0853), Guatemala City. v
1 Sat, 1pm- CULTURAL EVENT:
a glimpse at indigenous culture, a
Maya sacerdote (priest) presents an authen-
tic ceremony/ritual. Free. La Pefia de Sol La-
tino (tel: 7882-4468), LaAntigua.
1 Sat., 7:30pm ANNIVERSARY
1 BASH: Rainbow Caf6 18th anni-
versary party, featuring live music at 9pm
and salsa show by New Sensation salsa
academy. Free entrance. Rainbow Caf6 (tel:
7832-1919) 7a av. sur #8, LaAntigua.
Guatemalan Art F Learn about the fascinating
history of the Maya's clothing
Gallery & Museum MUSEO and weaving.
4a calle oriented #10 IXCHEL Buy Guatemalan handicrafts at
a A u our s eoihel.oshoponline at
Interior Casa Antigua, El Jauln DEL TRAJE INDGENA www.museoixche.org/shoponline
La Antigua Guatemala
www.centrodeartepopular.com Centro Cultural UFM
6ta. Calle Final, Zona 10
OPEN DAILY Ciudad de Guatemala
Telefaxes: (502) 2361 8081/82
Monday Friday 9:00 to 17:00
Saturday 9:00 to 13:00
Sin Unlversldad Frandsco Marroqun UM
MON FRI: 9:00 to 17:00
SAT: 9:00 to 13:00
6 Calle final zona 10
Universidad Francisco Marroquin
Tel: (502) 2338-7836, 2338-7837
The best thing
"The best thingfor you," the doctor said,
"is to cut out all sweets and fatty foods, give
up alcohol, and stop smoking."
"I see," the patient said. "To be honest, I don't
deserve the best. What's second best?"
ANTIGUA TOUR: Tues, Wed, Fri, Sat at 9:30am with Elizabeth Bell $20
Meet at the fountain in the main square
T O U -I SLIDE SHOW: Tuesdays at 6pm at El Sitio, 5a calle poniente #15 Q30
by EUiM betl Beill Inquire about othertours and travel arrangements in Guatemala
...... ......... .. .. Offices: *3a calle oriented #22 and *inside Casa del Conde (main square)
www.antiguatours.net Mon-Fri 8am-5pm Sat-Sun 9-1pm Tels: 7832-5821, 7832-0053
f REVUE tiene la circulaci6n mas grande: 20,000 ejemplares mensuales
Fi j Atpe Actual
The oldest Guatemalan Art Gallery.
Featuring more than 100 artists.
*NEW ADDRESS: Plaza Obelisco 16 calle 1-01, zona 10
Tels: 2367-3266, 5779-0000 email@example.com
THROUGHOUT THE IVMONTH
Monday New Orleans Blues with Nelson
Lunding. Piano & vocals.
Wednesday Live Jazz Trio; sax, piano, bass.
Thursday Buena Vista de Coraz6n; Cuban
Jazz. Conga and vocals by Ignacio.
Friday Latin Trio; guitar, conga and piano.
Sunday New Orleans Jazz with Nelson
Lunding. Piano & vocals.
Monday, 7-10pm Carlos Trujillo,
Classical & Latin Guitar music to complete
your intimate dining experience. Free.
Tuesday, 7-10pm Ramiro plays Trova
Wednesday through Sundays, 7-10pm -
Sol Latino plays Andean music (pan flutes).
- Ramiro plays Trova
When the power of love overcomes the
love of power the world will know peace.
Plas ubityurDAEOO ety orte E
Monday, 7:30pm Don Ramiro will serenade
you with some beautiful Latin folk music. Free.
Tuesday & Fridays, 7:30pm Sergio, reggae
Wednesday, 7:30pm Open Mike," 1,.. r...
by Juan-Jo and friends. A complimentary drink for
all performers. Free.
Thursday, 7:30pm Giiicho will astound
you with his guitar skills and improvisation of
Latino and pop classics.
Saturday, 7:30pm -At.One.Ment. Come
and listen to Luke and his band. You cannot
miss it. Enjoy a few drinks and relax to some
Sunday, 7:30pm La Raiz: Luis, Juan-Jo
& Choko, great improvised classics. Free.
WW2EfW1i ;m? !v; "' -P 2M I
Friday, 7:30pm Mark Weinstein's Marco
Trio will perform a variety of jazz, blues &
rock 'n' roll.
Saturday, 7:30pm La Trova del Lago
featuring Juan Sisay, Carlos Rangel and Noe
Poetry is like a bird, it ignores all frontiers.
YIf yurbr rreturn hs ie uico argua
CHECK DATEBOOK CALENDAR LISTINGS FOR MORE CONCERTS AND SPECIAL MUSICAL EVENTS
THROUGHOUT THE MONTH
Avenida de los A .. ,a a ,,
Monday The fabulous piano master Chris
Jarnach plays jazz and favorite tunes;
Circus Bar Latin Ensemble plays boleros, salsa,
son cubano and other Latin rhythms.
Tuesday Nayno Flamenco, Rumba and
Latin Ensemble, Trova del Lago.
Wednesday Nayno, Latin Ensemble.
Thursday, 7:30pm Carlos and Carlitos,
swing and Latin rhythms. Trova del Lago, trova.
Friday A fascinating show of Circus Bar
Saturday Los Vagabundos, hot rhythms in
a fusion of Rumba, Flamenco and Guatemalan
Sunday Latin Ensemble.
S Mon., through January 6, 2011
5- -ART INSTALLATION: Vitrina
Navidad 2010, antiques bazaar by Jos6 An-
tonio Maldonado Arriola. Proyecto Cultural
Callej6n del Fino, Edificio el Centro local
218, 7a av. y 9a calle, z. 1, Guatemala City.
S Tues., 5:30pm (English) TALK:
Iv Rescuing Guatemalan 'i j The
Wildlife Rescue and Conservation Associa-
tion is the leading advocate for the rights
of wild animals in Guatemala. Presentation
includes wild (non-releasable) animals. Do-
nation Q25. Rainbow Caf6 (tel: 7832-1919)
7a av. sur #8, LaAntigua.
SThurs., 6:30pm ART: Inaugura-
18tion of Sitios Propios by artists Ana
Lucrecia Sunum & Sergio Alvarado. Cock-
tail. Galeria de Arte DieAugen, 6a av, 4-61,
z. 10 (Centro Oftalmol6gico Le6n), Gua-
19Fri., 8pm and Sat 20, 7pm THEATER: Margo F Dances in Kandahar
J Province, a new play by Capt. Bob, starring Bette Van Lunteren and Charles Lewis.
A neurotic dancer wanting to meet an old boyfriend is haunted by the image of her hus-
band who was killed in Afghanistan. Q60. El Sitio, 5a calle poniente #15, LaAntigua. v
f bsr I ~
revuemag.com ( 27
NY pLB AP BOB
DANCES ti KSANAHAR pDOVAYCE
O 1* -OV
18Thurs., Tues., 23 & Thurs 25,
13-5pm (Spanish) WORKSHOP:
Ages 5-12, create art from clay, a new proj-
ect each day. Q20. Museo Popol Vuh (tel:
2338-7898) Universidad Francisco Marro-
quin, 6a calle final, z.10, Guatemala City.
1 QThurs., 7pm ART: Exposition
of recent works by artist Alfredo
Ceibal. Galeria El Tunel (tel: 2367-3284)
Plaza Obelisco, z. 10, Guatemala City.
2 Sat., 1pm DANCE & MUSIC:
vThe Nifios de San Antonio Aguas
Calientes, dancing and playing the marim-
ba, flutes and bombas. Donations benefit
educational pursuits. Free. La Pefia de Sol
Latino (tel: 7882-4468), LaAntigua.
I DateBook online: www.REVUEmag.com
22 3Tues., 5:30pm- (English) TALK:
3J Transitions helps disabled people
throughout Guatemala; services include
a custom-wheelchair manufacturing and
training facility, a clinic for prosthetics and
orthotics, a graphic design and offset print-
ing business, and a special education pro-
gram. Donation Q25. Rainbow Caf6 (tel:
7832-1919) 7a av. sur #8, LaAntigua.
2 3Tues., 6pm MUSIC: Piano con-
2J cert by students of Master Ricardo
Carranza. Q50. El Sitio (tel: 7832-3037) 5a
calle poniente #15, LaAntigua.
S/ Wed., through Sat., 27th, 10am-
"-8pm PRE-CHRISTMAS PAR-
TY: Activities for children and adults and
sale of products, presents, ornaments and
exclusive handicrafts for Christmas. Museo
Ixchel, 6a calle final z. 10, Centro Cultural
Universidad Francisco Marroquin, Guate-
_Va/erb we czt
"The finest in Latin American
and Caribbean works of art."
Review from New York Times
We represent over 100 artists from all
of Latin America, as well as featured
artists from around the world.
We also handle estate sales, auctions
and give qualified appraisals.
Make La Antigua a preferred stop on
your Guatemala itinerary, and stay up
to date with us by logging on.
4a calle oriented #15, La Antigua Guatemala
Tel: (502) 7832-2124 Fax: (502) 7832-2866
2 Wed., 7pm ARABIC DANCE:
r.Las Mily Una Noches and Amor Gi-
tano by Club Sherezada de Danza Arabe
and presented by Asociaci6n Cultural Nue-
va Acr6polis. Convento Capuchinas (tel:
7832-7664) 2a av. norte & 2a calle oriented,
corner, La Antigua.
Fri., Sat. 27, Sun. 28, all day-
26TURTLE FESTIVAL: Coinciding
with peak turtle-nesting season, the Festi-
val de la Tortuga 2010 will feature turtle
releases, nature tours, concerts, arts and
crafts, a horse show and sporting events,
fun activities for children and much more.
For details visit www.festivaldelatortuga.
info for lodging see www.visitmonterrico.
com, Monterrico. Highlight on page 21.
2 Fri., 7pm DANCE: Hambre by
contemporary dance group Otredad.
Q60. El Sitio (tel: 7832-3037), LaAntigua.
2 7Sat., 11am MUSIC: Year-end
/concert by the group Unicornio.
Colegio Mayor Santo Tomis de Aquino, la
av. norte #23, LaAntigua.
'Sat, 5:30pm (English/Spanish)
/ THEATER: How the Grinch Stole
Christmas, with an interna-
tional cast including some
25 dancers and perform-
ers. Free. Asociaci6n
Nuestros Ahjados carret-
era San Felipe #105, (tel:
2 tSat., 6pm DANCE: Ballet pre-
sentation to celebrate the day of
no violence against women. Free. Atrium,
Centro de Fomaci6n de la Cooperaci6n
Espafiola (tel: 7832-1276) 6a av. norte be-
tween 3a & 4a calle poniente, LaAntigua.
2 Sat., 7pm MUSIC: Rock, Jazz
/ e Fusion, by Hedras Ramos Jr.,
lead guitar; Helbert Arias, piano; Fernando
Ramos Sr., bass.
Q70. El Sitio
28Sun., through Tues., 30th, 10am-
U7pm PRE-CHRISTMAS PAR-
TY: Activities for children and adults and
sale of products, presents, ornaments and
exclusive handicrafts for Christmas. Museo
Ixchel, 6a calle final z. 10, Centro Cultural
Universidad Francisco Marroquin, Guate-
3 Tues., 5:30pm (English) TALK:
3 0Preview of CasaSitio's Second An-
nual Art Festival at La Cooperaci6n Espa-
iola. Learn more about the Dec. 4 festival
and participate in an interactive art activity
after the talk. You can also sign up to be
a volunteer. Donation Q25. Rainbow Caf6
(tel: 7832-1919) 7a av. sur #8, LaAntigua.
30Tues., 30, 7:30pm MUSIC:
S Handel's Messiah, the Christmas
encore portion will include audience favor-
ites including O Holy Night, a beautiful and
rarely performed modern version of Ave
Maria, Joy to the World and others. Tick-
ets Q200, Q60. Teatro Nacional, 24 calle
3-81, z. 1, Guatemala City. See highlight
on page 20.
THROUGHOUT THE MVIONTH
ART: An ongoing show of the latest works
by renowned Guatemalan artist Patrick
McGrath and other national and interna-
tional masters. La Antigua Galeria de Arte
(tel: 7832-2124), LaAntigua. v
ART: A Tres Bandas, material, aural and vi-
sual narrative of musical mestizaje present
in Latin America since the 16th century.
Centro de Fomaci6n de la Cooperaci6n
Espaiola (tel: 7832-1276) 6a av. norte be-
tween 3a & 4a calle poniente, LaAntigua.
ART: La Veneracidn a los Muertos: La
Tradicidn a Travis del Tiempo, archaeologi-
cal exhibition of ancient rites honoring the
dead. Museo VICAL de Arte Precolombino
y Vidrio Moderno, Casa Santo Domingo,
3a calle oriented #28, LaAntigua. v
A nursery with the most extensive variety of plants
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Development of a Green Gospel is now the focus of my environmental education efforts. Our arguments
must be elegant, simple and compelling. I want to put a "face" on the major forces of nature in order that
people can begin to understand what should be our relationship to the Earth. Since time immemorial
humans have spontaneously referred to "Mother Earth"and "Father Sun.' Everyone agrees that only the
most depraved lost soul would intentionally do damage to his or her own mother. -ThorJanson
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Telephone 2473 1941 2474 5194 Fax 24745254
Monday Friday hom 7 30 am to 5 30 pm
S Saturday h om 7 00 am to 6 00 pm
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Tels: 2220-2180, (502) 5293-7856, 5205-8252
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Be as a bird perched on a frail branch that she For man, as for flower and beast and bird,
feels bending beneath her, still she sings away the supreme triumph is to be most vividly,
all the same, knowing she has wings, mostperfectly alive.
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ThofJanson cont.from page 10
which he hadn't had time to put back in its
popsicle-stick house, was poking its head
out from the neck of Ollie's T-shirt. This
funny event became a permanent part of
Charlevoix's camp lore.
At university, young Janson focused on
biology and music. At Schiller International
University in Berlin, he studied music theory
under the famous organist Gerhard Blum. At
Southern Illinois University, he focused on
experimental electronic music and forestry.
At the University of San Francisco, he en-
tered a pre-med program and studied ocean-
ography, publishing a paper on Holothurians
and the life of deep ocean trenches.
"It seemed like the primary focus of most of my
coll'a-gue: was simply how to get themselves set
up for maximum money making, not liberating
their fellow human beings from the oppression
of disease. To take advantage of people when
they are down-when they are sick-in order
to extract as much money from them as they can
bear, that seemed wrong to me. Such an atti-
tude is not likely to endear a young student to
the medical faculty. So I decided to resign from
the university, hop on my Honda 350 motor-
cycle, and tune in to the wild blue yonder ...
heading south ... destination unknown!"
It was during this, his first trip around the
world in 1973, that Janson visited Guate-
mala, where he lived for a time with a Kaq-
chikel Indian family in a dirt-floor hut by
the shores of Lake Atitlan. "These humble
Mayan people ...contnuedon ollw page
GUATEMALA CITY)) Services
Authentic brick oven
Boulevard Los Proceres 12
Av. Esquina zona 10
ROM ANO San Crist6bal: 4003-0061
RANO Centro Comercial Mix, Local 19-B
P I Z Z E R I A www.pizzaromano.com
The bird a nest, the spider a web,
man friendship. -William Blake
Wi-Fi Lunch Specials
Happy Hour 11-5
Near all Major Hotels. 13 called laav, zona 10,
Slocal5 Torre Santa Clara II Tel:2331-2641
I realized that ifI had to choose, I would rather
have birds than airplanes. -Charles Lindbergh
Birds sing after a storm; why shouldn't
people feel as free to delight in whatever
remains to them? -Rose Kennedy
THE TALE IS SET,
The Fest in Fresh
Fruits ~f Vegetables
produced avd packaged
with ynur health in mind
M-F 8:307pn Sat 8:30-2pm
S1 calle 4-44, Z.10 a ,
uatemala City TelFax:2363-2682
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plaza iany t 23f
Best Buffalo Wings in Guatemala
60's & 70's Rock
Big Screen TV
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SPOfRTS BAR Darts Cold Beer
Mon-Sat 9am-lam and Sun Ipm-midnightish
13 calle 0-40, Z.10 T/F: 2368-2089
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...continued from previous page
taught me that happiness cannot be bought
with money; happiness is a quality of the spirit."
Janson continued around the world, sail-
ing to the most remote islands of Polynesia,
working in New Zealand, trekking across Af-
rica and Asia and finally returning to Califor-
nia. "I knew within minutes of stepping on
American soil that I would not stay there. It
was just too civilized. I guess I had gone native
sEBE ,. I L _.
somewhere in the jungles of Mesoamerica.
But where would I go? I remembered the
happy times I had spent with the Maya in
Guatemala and was determined to return."
It was February of 1976 and Janson was
working in Chicago to get some travel-
ing money together when the news of the
devastating earthquake in Guatemala came
over the wire. As soon as he could, he re-
turned to the land of the Maya to assist in
That fall he met and became friends with
Professor Mario Dary, Director of San Car-
los University's School of Biology, who in-
vited him to join the faculty, where Janson
instigated a project to study and protect the
endangered manatee. Janson's project led to
the establishment of the Choc6n-Machacas
Manatee Reserve at Rio Dulce, where he
was to be the park director.
In 1982, Janson established his own conser-
vation group, Defensores de la Naturaleza,
where he remained as director until 1987.
Dissatisfied with the government's handling
of forest conservation, he spearheaded an
innovative program to open the way for a
private organization to manage wild lands
with private-sector funding.
His project resulted in the establishment of
the Sierra de las Minas Biosphere Reserve,
which is managed by Defensores. At present,
Janson is focused on protecting the quetzal
and its habitat and is director of the Cloud
Forest Defense Project. 0
GUATEMALA CITY)) Dining
Dinn ((UTML CITY
A "Classic" in the center of
Guatemala City & now in Zone 10
Specializing in Spanish and Basque
Cuisine, Seafood and Paella
5a av. 12-31, Zona 1
Tels: 2251-7185, 2253-6743
10 calle 0-45, Zona 10 Tels: 2332-6576,
mATEBOO :tu page 30
Monday, 4:30pm; Tuesdays, 2:30pm;
Wednesday, 2:30pm; Thursdays, 4:30pm
- BRIDGE TOURNAMENTS: Guate-
malan Duplicate Bridge Association; con-
tact Denni: 2478-1649, Lucy: 2369-0103 or
Eva: (LaAntigua) 7832-4327. 12 av. 2-59, z.
15 Colonia Tecdn Um~n, Guatemala City.
Tuesday, 6pm (no show Nov. 30) -
(English) SLIDE SHOW: Antigua, Behind
the Walls with Elizabeth Bell. Q30 benefits
educational programs. El Sitio (tel: 7832-
3037) 5a calle poniente #15, LaAntigua.
Tues., Wed. & Thurs., 7:30pm (Span-
ish) TEATRO COMEDIA: Sdnese Quien
Pueda, una comedia que te contagiari de risa.
A beneficio de la fundaci6n para Sindrome de
Down Margarita Tejeda. Donaci6n Q100.
Reservaciones a los tels. 4917-9190, 2261-
0887. Restaurant La Estancia, 12 calle 7-69,
Plazuela Espana z. 9, Guatemala City. v
ACTIVITIES (Spanish) for children, teens
& adults incl. Reading Clubs; Art Work-
shop; Storytelling & Chess Workshop. For
more info., Libreria Infantil El Hormigue-
ro (tel: 2368-3855), Guatemala City.
Bad artists copy. Good artists steal.
[ Page-by-page online: revuemag.com
Friday, 5-6pm (English) READING
CLUB, also ask about the NEW BOOK
EXCHANGE PROGRAM. IGA (tel: 2411-
5555) 9a av. 0-31, z. 4, Guatemala City.
Saturday, 10:30am-12:30pm (Span-
ish) VACATION DRAWING WORK-
SHOP: Taught by Luis Arturo Arnvalo
Luarta, for teens 15 and older. Q450. Tel:
2368-0853. Galeria El Attico (tel: 2368-
0853) 4a av. 15-45, z. 14, Guatemala City.
Wed., Dec. 1, 7:30pm MUSIC: Han-
del's Messiah, the Christmas encore por-
tion will include audience favorites O Holy
Night, a beautiful rarely performed mod-
ern version of Ave Maria, Joy to the World
and others. Tickets Q300, Q200. Hotel
Casa Santo Domingo, 3a calle oriented #28,
LaAntigua. See highlight on page 20.
Fri, Dec. 10, 6pm THEATER: How
the Grinch Stole Christmas, with an interna-
tional cast including some 25 dancers and
performers. Tickets Q50. Teatro MIGUEL
ANGEL ASTURIAS, Teatro Nacional, 24
calle 3-81 z. 1, Guatemala City. See high-
light on page 21.
Fri., Dec. 17, 5:30pm THEATER:
How the Grinch Stole Christmas, with an in-
ternational cast including some 25 dancers
and performers. Free. Centro de Formaci6n
y Cooperac6n Espafiola, 6a av. norte be-
tween 3 & 4 calle, La Antigua. See high-
light on page 21.
Television is a medium because
anything well done is rare. -Fred Allen
SPrint. Web. PDF. Flashpaper. Facebook.
Lodgn (L C
A uwA O Comfortable Rooms,
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Breakfast, Wi-Fi, Patios,
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4a Av. "A' 13-74, zona 9 Weekly andMonthly rates
Guatemala City Meeting rooms 6 Parking
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oil 110111 11,4-,-Val!
We continued to slog up the muddy trail until we came to a clearing where there
stood a little thatched-roof cottage out of which arose a plume of blue smoke.
Rosendo Chun's place!
Resplendent Quetza cont. from page 18
CHUN'S PLACE AT LAST
On the other side of the Motagua
Valley a series of switchbacks took us
up into the mountains ofVerapaz.
Gradually, the sweltering desert gave way
to pine forest and then a cool evergreen
broad-leaf forest. An hour later we stopped
in the little town of Tactic and had lunch
at a restaurant called Comedor Bombil Pec,
where a beautiful young Mayan girl served
us bowls of the regional specialty Kak'ik, a
rich turkey and chile stew accompanied by
fresh roasted corn tamalitos.
After a short siesta we headed out in our Jeep
down a badly rutted track, which led us into
the Polochic Valley along the rushing river.
Down and down we went. After hours of
constant pounding we arrived at the village
of Tamahi, on the floor of the valley. Here
we took a right turn onto an even more
rustic roadway that led up into the coffee
plantations. It was hot and steamy. The
vegetation was very lush with many palms
and a profusion of epiphytes.
* Dorms starting at $10 per person
* Transportation airport/hostel/airport
* Highly recommended by Lonely Planet
* Breakfast included tl sy L Hosal
* Credit Cards accepted y i Ls VOLCANES
LIB BED & BREAKFAST
16calle 8-00zona 13, Aurora I
Guatemala City, Guatemala, CA.
Tels (502) 2261-3040,
A four star hotel in the Historic Center
4 Avenida 3-25, Zona 1, Guatemala City
PBX: 2285-3434 Fax: 2232-7759
I would rather learn from one bird how to sing
than to teach 10,000 stars how not to dance.
-e. e. cummings
Just tell 'em, "lo vi en la revista REVUE"
Bed P Breakfast
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Everywhere there were giant tree ferns, many growing to more than 40 feet in
height. More than a century ago the English naturalist William R. Brigham saw
these forests and wrote:
"Tropical vegetation cannot well be described. The real trouble that meets the nov-
ice on the threshold of the tropics is the utter inadequacy of the English language
to express the variety and luxuriance he sees in the vegetable world. Even in color
his vocabulary fails him and he must include in the name of'green' so many distinct
tints that he often fails to try":
We observed many beautiful birds: keel-
billed toucans, flocks of little green parrots
and several colonies of oropendola, easily
identifiable by their strange nests which
look like miniature hammocks hanging
high up in huge kapok trees.
It took us another four hours to climb up
through new and abandoned cornfields and
get to the forest edge. The misting rain,
called cheepy-cheepy by the natives, had
begun and it was getting cold. I was happy
that we were nearing our destination.
Entering the cloud forest was like stepping
into a vast cathedral bathed in perpetual
twilight. And as soon as I had entered I felt
that there was something unusual about
it. Something that seemed very ancient
and mysterious. Huge old oaks and alders
towered up to form a canopy 150 feet above
us. These massive trees were covered with a
profusion of mosses in which were rooted
ferns, herbs, shrubs and even small trees
along with countless species of orchids,
bromeliads, epiphytes and vines.
* 1-hour Zoom Whitening
" Smile Makeover
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USAC UB BARCELONA, SPAIN
Dr. Luis Bonilla
USAC UAB CHILE
Dr. Mario de LeOn
USAC CESO MEXICO
5a calle poniente #28, La Antigua Guatemala
Tels: 7832-7945 5096-6694 ~ English spoken
email@example.com ~ www.soldent.com
Master's Degree in Oriental
Clinic de Medicine and Acupuncture,
iEqunliar U.S. licensed.
Appointments: (502) 5517-1796
firstname.lastname@example.org 3a av. norte #20-A La Antigua
Sp Delia Orellana
a NANHGRA KINESI-THERAPHY
Cel: 5874-7749 La Antigua
Dra. Lotty Marie Meza Rezzio
Cirujana Dentista UFM
Monday Friday 8am-12pm & 2-6pm
Saturday 8am to 12pm
5a calle poniente final #27B, La Antigua
Tel:7821-5741 Email: email@example.com
Rodolto Laparra, M.D.
CLINICA y OPTICA SANTA LUCIA
Hinh Oialitv Ontical Sprvircp
r Dr. Manuel Antonio Samayoa
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No bird soars too high if he soars
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However, I learned something. I thought that
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Until he extends the circle of his compassion to all living
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A bird doesn't sing because it has an answer,
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Through the mist the only sounds that we could hear were made by water.
Gurgling streams and rivulets and drops, cascading down.
Resplendent Quetzal cont. from page 42
Everywhere there were giant tree ferns,
many growing to more than 40 feet in
height. More than a century ago the Eng-
lish naturalist William R. Brigham saw
these forests and wrote:
"Tropical vegetation cannot well be
described. The real trouble that meets the
novice on the threshold of the tropics is the
utter inadequacy of the English language to
express the variety and luxuriance he sees
in the vegetable world. Even in color his vo-
cabulary fails him and he must include in
the name of 'green' so many distinct tints
that he often fails to try."
It was very silent. Through the mist the only
sounds that we could hear were made by
water. Gurgling streams and rivulets and
drops, cascading down from one leaf to an-
other. We continued to slog up the muddy
trail and it was a surprise when, after what
seemed like a very short time, we came to a
clearing where there stood a little thatched-
roof cottage out of which arose a plume of
blue smoke. Rosendo Chun's place!
He was not home but his two daughters
came out to greet us with steaming mugs of
hot coffee. I used the rest of the daylight to
try to locate a quetzal with no luck. It was
raining steadily and all the forest creatures
were staying inside their warm nests and
burrows ..contnuedon aqe 62
deli & garden restaurant
Open D, il lOam-lOpm 3a avenida norte #11-B, La Antigua Tel: 7832-5545
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Each time I tried to say something in Kek'chi they all burst out laughing and
mimicking my pronunciation in high-pitched squeals.
When I got back I found that Rosendo
had returned from hunting and had pre-
pared slabs of wood at one end of the cabin,
which were to serve as our sleeping quar-
ters. He greeted me by saying "hass capey?"
which Veronica told me means "do you
want something to eat?"
I replied "oos," which means "good, affirma-
tive." Soon we were served hot stacks of yel-
low and blue corn tortillas along with a bowl
of cooked green herbs called "makui," which
tasted like spinach. It was a simple meal, but
one that tasted good enough for a king, es-
pecially after the day's exertion.
I tried to ask Rosendo about the quetzal.
"Rochoch Li Quetzal?" I asked, reading from
the list of phrases I had in my notebook.
This was supposed to mean "quetzal nest"
but Rosendo just sat there smiling and nod-
ding at me.
His whole family-wife, three daughters
and two sons-was sitting around the fire
watching with wide-eyed curiosity. Each
time I tried to say something in Kek'chi
they all burst out laughing and mimicking
my pronunciation in high-pitched squeals.
They laughed until they cried as if this
strange alien visitor trying to speak their
language was the funniest thing they had
It was then our turn. Ver6nica picked up
different articles giving their Spanish or
We spent the next few days getting to know the area and looking for signs
of the quetzal: fruiting trees where they might be found eating and poten-
tial nest sights.
English name and our host and his family
would attempt to repeat the words. This
only caused more uproarious laughter by
everyone. In this way we passed our first
THERE WAS NO ESCAPE
WX e spent the next few days getting to
know the area and looking for signs
of the quetzal: fruiting trees where they might
be found eating and potential nest sights.
One afternoon while I was trying to get a
photograph of an unusually large red snail,
Rosendo's youngest son Chung came by and
seemed fascinated that I was giving the snail
so much attention. I looked at him, then
pointed to the snail and smiled, nodding.
When I was finished photographing, the
boy picked up the eight-inch long snail and
put it in his pocket. He gave me a big smile,
nodded, and pranced away into the forest. I
went about my business, thinking nothing
about the incident, except that it was nice
that these people were so friendly.
Later that evening at dinner we were
brought our stacks of tortillas as usual, but
when I got my stew bowl I immediately no-
ticed a strange smell and saw strips of some-
thing weird in the broth.
Then I noticed an antenna. Oh no! Chung
had assumed that my interest in the snails
had gastronomic implications and collected
Sol ain 7:0Wdedythog udy P
Oh no! Chung had assumed that my interest in the snails had gastronomic
implications and collected as many as he could for our dinner. The whole
family sat there smiling at us.
as many as he could for our dinner. The
whole family sat there smiling at us. There
was no escape.
It was a beautiful gesture on his part but
I must admit that the slimy, half-cooked
snails were among the hardest things I have
ever had to eat ... right up there with raw
sea urchin and fermented whale blubber.
But we had to smile and eat it. Anything
else would have been an insult.
From then on if I was studying some
spider or worm and heard one of the
family coming, I would quickly divert my
gaze to the trees and hope that they would
not discover my true focus of interest.
Nevertheless, we were treated to a variety of
strange fare including wild pheasant, giant
tree maggots, and smoked monkey, which,
by the way, was not half bad.
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,a Ant' u Tel 782' 5
I h fee ar inga a inoRa
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5a calle poniente No. 8
(Closed on Wednesday)
Be grateful for luck. Pay the thunder no mind.
Listen to the birds. And don't hate nobody.
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There is nothing in which the birds differ more I don't ask for the meaning of the song of a bird
from man than the way in which they can build or the rising of the sun on a misty morning.
and yet leave a landscape as it was before. There they are, and they are beautiful.
-Robert Wilson Lynd -Pete Hamill
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If itlooks like duck, and quacks like a duck,
we have at least to consider the possibility that
we have a small aquatic bird of the family
anatidae on our hands. -Douglas Adams
Calle Ancha #27, La Antigua Tel: 7832-2732
He enjoys much who is thankful for little.
Without any warning a form-a bolt of shimmering emerald green-shot up
from the forest. It was a large male quetzal spiraling upward with long tail
feathers streaming behind.
'SOUNDS LIKE QUETZALS'
One morning I awoke before dawn.
Still in a dreamy state, I could hear
faint but distinct calls coming from all sides.
It was a sad, slow sort of cooing. I thought
it must have been Rosendo's turkeys digging
around for insects and worms outside the
cabin. I woke up Ver6nica to ask her what
"I can't be sure," she said, "but it sounds
Adrenaline shot into my blood and I was
up and dressed in an instant. In the past I
had heard one or sometimes two quetzals
singing while exploring the forest, but this
sounded like several dozen. We went outside
in the darkness. It was windy and I was
startled to find the sky absolutely clear and
full of the brightest stars I had ever seen.
The calling continued; some of the birds were
very near while others seemed to be calling
from across the valley. We stood listening
until the first brilliant rays of sunlight came
over the horizon. It looked like it would
be a bright, clear, sunny day, a rare enough
event in the cloud forest. Rosendo's youngest
daughter brought us hot coffee and we stood
at the edge of the clearing surveying the
forest above and below.
Over the next few minutes the cooing
diminished to almost nothing. Our next
60. Av Sur #7 Anigua Guoaemola
lel 78320648 e-mail: sisaberaco@holmail cor
KA IM K 11
6a avenida norte#14-A
I can recognize the calls ofpractically I never for a day gave up listening to the songs
every bird in North America. There are of our birds, or watching their peculiar habits,
some in Africa I don't know, though. or delineating them in the best way I could.
-Roger Tory Peterson -John James Audubon
A G Di
S Liie Mlusic
i, :."' available
CUCINA ITALIANA A f
e- '','0 LaAntigua
6a calleponiente#6-A Tel:7832-7180 (closedTue)
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El Rosario email@example.com
La AntiguaG. www.cafeana.com
move would be to go out in search of
whatever had been making the sound.
Suddenly, as the first beams of the sun began
to touch the canopy-a spectacular sight!
Without any warning a form, a bolt of
shimmering emerald green, shot vertically
up from the forest. It was a large male
quetzal spiraling upward with long tail
feathers streaming behind. As he continued
his skyward flight he made a loud, raucous
cry: WAKA WAKA WAKA WAKA.
He continued swimming up through the air
until he was several hundred yards above the
forest, after which he dove, with wings held
close to his body, streaking into the canopy
on the other side of the valley.
Then another quetzal shot up out of the
trees in vertical flight. Over and over
again this expression of sheer exuber-
ance, joy and freedom was repeated.
I could hear my heart pounding in my
chest. This was nothing like I had ever seen
or read about. Not just the amazing display
flight, but the loud, almost macaw-like cry
that the quetzal had made.
Then another quetzal shot up out of the
trees in vertical flight. Over and over again
this expression of sheer exuberance, joy
and freedom was repeated. It occurred to
me that no other creature I had ever seen
so embodied the symbol of the phoenix of
Egyptian mythology; rising immortal from
out of the ashes of destruction.
Rosendo came down to where we were
standing. "Li Kukul," he said smiling and
pointing to the forest below. We nodded!
A G Di
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Cakes made to order
Free Coffee Refills
Open Daily from 7am-7pm
Corner 3a av. & 4a calle T:7832-7652
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Avenida la Recolecci6n No. 55,
La Antigua Tel: 7832-3000
de lax l .. .
5a avenlda sur final #36'C' La Antigua Guatemala
Tel: 7832-7074 www.laescalonia.com
76 > revuemag.com
after bartending at the Monoloco
restaurant in La Antigua Guatemala
for four years, Zac Ballentine is returning
to the United States to enroll in college
and perhaps work as a ski instructor in
"I love Antigua and I love the Monoloco.
I could spend the rest of my life here, but I'm
approaching 30 and I can't do it forever," he
says. "I miss my family a lot, too I have
two fairly new nephews."
Before moving to Antigua from his
native Minneapolis in September 2006, Zac
had visited Guatemala twice, as his older
brother was working at a nonprofit here.
Zac learned of the Monoloco bartending
job through his brother.
"My most memorable experience was
when my brother and I lived together; we
overlapped here for a year. It made us so much
closer. That first year was so much fun."
Zac's first New Year's was another
memorable time. "It was incredible, I was
blown away with how busy it was and how
much fun it was."
And what will he miss most about
"Honestly, it's going to the Monoloco
and all the friends I met here-all the
staff, the managers, the owners-because
they've been so nice to me. I'll miss the easy
And those many friends will miss him,
too. iQud le vaya bien! 0
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According to tradition the quetzal's red breast color was caused from taking
part in the struggle between Spanish conqueror Pedro de Alvarado and the
great Mayan Chief Tecln UmAn.
Resplendent Quetza cont. from page 74
BLOOD OF THE DEAD
Standing there I wondered whether old
Rosendo had any idea of the role the
quetzal had played in the history of his
people. According to tradition, the quetzal
took part in the struggle between Spanish
conqueror Pedro de Alvarado and the great
Mayan ChiefTecdn Uman.
After Alvarado's mercenaries had slain
30,000 Maya on the battlefield near Xelajd
(Quetzaltenango) innumerable quetzals flew
down to earth and settled on the bodies of
the warriors. All through the night, keeping
deathwatch, the quetzals covered the bodies
of the slaughtered Indians.
At dawn the birds flew into the sky again,
but different than before: Their breasts had
soaked up the blood of the dead, and since
that day the quetzal has been red underneath.
Later that morning I was writing up some
notes and I decided to try and sketch what
the quetzal's display flight had looked like,
knowing that getting good photographs of
it would be next to impossible.
As I looked at my drawing it dawned on me
that the figure of the quetzal, flying straight
up into the sky with tail feathers rippling
behind, looked oddly reminiscent of the
Greek caduceus: two serpents intertwined
about a staff and topped ...contnued on page 9
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It is an unusual behavioral trait that the quetzal seems incapable of taking
a fruit while perched.
with a winged sun; carried by the ancient
messengers of the gods, Mercury and Hermes.
Could it be that the winged serpent of
the Maya and the Egyptian symbology,
which gave rise to the caduceus of Greek
mythology, had a common origin? Both
represented the herald of the forces of light,
the Life Force. Thousands of years before the
flowering of Egyptian civilization, the great
sages of India had used essentially this same
symbol. It stood for the serpentine power of
life-energy that they termed "Kundalini" in
the ancient Vedic scripture.
We spent three months living with Rosendo
in the cloud forest. We logged hundreds
of hours observing the quetzal's courting,
nesting, eating and rearing their young. I
was able to take many photographs, which
have been used in campaigns to promote the
conservation of this supremely beautiful bird.
Quetzals are sedate birds who perch
tranquilly for long periods. Their
flight is undulating with intermittent bursts
of rapid wing beats. Food is chiefly fruits,
especially of the Laurel family (Lauraceae),
and occasionally insects, both of which are
plucked from stems or foliage in mid-flight at
the end of a sudden upward or outward sally,
without alighting. It is an unusual behavioral
trait that the quetzal seems incapable of
taking a fruit while perched.
I have spent many hours observing quetzals
feeding in fruit trees and have noticed that
even if the bird is perched on a branch full of
fruit, and even if the fruit is within inches of
its beak, it is unable to take it. Only in flight
will the bird pluck the fruit. Sometimes a
lizard, frog or snail is taken.
The song is simple but often very melodious,
the most common being a melancholy coo-
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I consider myself to have been the bridge between
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Before I came along, the primary way to observe
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-Roger Tory Peterson
Watching birds has become part of my
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The male can be heard singing an unusually beautiful song of deep,
smooth, slurred notes in simple patterns.
cool, coo-cool. Sometimes the male can be
heard singing an unusually beautiful song
of deep, smooth, slurred notes in simple
patterns: keow kowee keow k'loo keow k'loo
keeloo. On a few occasions I have heard
them make sounds remarkably similar to a
Ritualized reproductive behavior begins
in March or April. Often male and female
quetzals can be seen flying through the
forest in small flocks, and it is at this time
of year when the male's spectacular vertical
display flight is most often seen.
Once the male-female pair is formed they
proceed immediately to search for a nesting
site. Often pairs will attempt to return to
nests used the previous year and intense
competition between pairs can ensue.
The male, especially, can be seen making
aggressive spiraling flights and calling
loudly if any other pair is seen near his
chosen nest, though I have never seen
actual physical combat.
Since quetzals, because of their relatively
weak beaks, are only capable of carving nest
holes in the most rotten tree trunks, there
are probably cases where some pairs are
unable to mate because of an insufficient
number of nesting sites.
Once a good site is found-and it may
be either in the middle of the forest or an
adjacent clearing-both male and female
go to work making the hole, usually from 5
to 27 meters (16 to 90 feet) above ground.
The hole is deep and similar to that of a
woodpecker. In fact, sometimes quetzals will
take over an abandoned woodpecker nest. 0