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LOTHFOP PUBL1 MI 0 G ( OPANY
YOUNG AMERICANS ABROAD
Being a Family Flight by four young people and
their parents through France and Germany
EDWARD EVERETT HALE AND SUSAN HALE
ILL USTRA TED
LOTHROP PUBLISHING COMPANY
LOTHROP PUJBLISHING COMPANY.
ARE YOU READY? Go ....................... .................. 15
ON DECK ......... ................ ...................... ....... 24
H ow IT CAME ABOUT ............................................ 31
W HAT CAME ABOUT ............................................... 41
THE VOYAGE .................................................... 49
THE BELLS ..................... .............. ................... 60
THE ARRIVAL...................................... ............... 66
DEAR PARIS ................. .................... ................ 76
SIGHT-SEEING ........... ..................... ...................... 83
A V ISIT............. ..... .. .......... ..... ..... ......... ....... 96
VERSAILLES.................. ................... .... .............. 107
TOMMY'S LARK .............. ..... ......................... ....... 116
THE LOUVRE .,.................................................. 123
LAST DAYS IN PARIS ..................... ........................ 135
OUT OF FRANCE ............... ...................... ........... 144
INTO GERMANY. .................................................. 151
CHRISTMAS. ...................................................... 160
MR. HERVEY.................................................... 170
W EIMAR ....................... ................................. 181
D RESDEN....... ................................................. I92
ST. ELIZABETH. ................................................... 205
EISENACH ........ ............................................... 214
A BOMB. ........................................................ 223
BERLIN............ .................... ..... ....................... 234
YOUNG AMERICANS ABROAD
ARE YOU READY? GO!
HERE is Tom!"
It was certainly the fifth time that this question
has been asked since breakfast. To the some-
what excited apprehension of Mr. Horner, it
seemed the twentieth. For Mr. Horner, though
a man of affairs, was a little thrown off his bal-
SI don't care where he is," said he. "Let
him stay with the newsboys, if he wants to."
The occasion was the filing under sheds, be-
tween piles of oranges and cotton bales, news-
boys and draymen, of a procession, male and
female, old and young, which tumbled out, both
hands of everybody full, from carriages on the
street, and in disorderly order came in sight of the
black hull of the St. Laurent, on the outside of the landing-sheds of the
Compagnie Gen6rale Trans-Atlantique. This procession was the Horner
family, leaving New York for Havre. Tom was the youngest of this
family, and he had now disappeared for the fifth time since breakfast.
"Never fear for Tom," said Philip, who had risen to the emergencies
of a departure, and allied himself to the side of authority. "Never
fear for Tom, I will see to him as soon as I leave mamma's things
A FAMILY FLIGHT.
in her state-room. This way, mamma. This way, Bessie. Papa, you
are quite wrong."
For Phil had been on board three times already with other boys from
AT THE PIER.
Mr. Newell's school, on one pretext or another, and was proud of
being the pilot.
Across the gangway, where even the most timid could not tremble;
between chattering French bonnes and dirty travelling pedlars; declining
endless invitations to purchase rosebuds, neglecting all overtures from
*" _who wished to take
from him his mother's
oTkj umbrella, camp-stool,
novel, Bible, and plaid
which, at the last mo-
ment, Phil had taken
in charge, he threaded
the way through the
large, dark saloon. He
pushed between a box
of Apollinaris water
and a steward with a
tray, carrying cham-
pagne; he threw open
a state-room door, and
SROSEBU Y. said with exultation,
A OSEBUI BOY.
"There !" This was
the large and spacious apartment of which Mrs. Horner had heard so
much. Alas for human expectations and the limitations of language !
ARE YOU READY? GO!
"Now," said Phil, "I will find Tom."
SIn Jacob Abbott's travelling directions the instructions for finding a
lost boy are these: "Look for him where the monkeys are." These
directions Phil remembered. But there were no monkeys within a mile
of the pier. Phil thought of the steerage passengers.
He ran down the pier to the place where they were buying their tin
mugs, and the rest of their outfit.
For, if you be a child of the public, and travel in the steerage, Europe
requires none of the long preparations which luxury exacts. If yoc,
are so fortunate as to travel' as the masses do, you say at eleven
o'clock, I think I will go across, and see the old folks You take an
Eight Avenue car up-town, for five cents; you run to the ticket office
on the pier, as if it were the ferry to Jersey City, and you buy your
ticket there. There is a woman handy at a bench, who will sell you a tin
mug, a towel if you need, a basin if you are particular, and a brush and
comb if you are luxurious; and having bought these, you go on board.
As you cross the gangway, the man in charge cries, "All ashore!" the
landsmen leave the ship, and you cross the ocean and see your father.
For the Horners, alas because they were more luxurious, more prepara-
tion had been necessary; and so it was that they had lost Tom, and that
Phil was in search of him.
But Phil's first dive for Tom was wrong. He was not buying a tin
cup nor a wash-basin.
Here's your nice oranges, seven for a shilling," said a stout woman
holding an orange in one hand, and opening a paper box with
Phil did not lose his temper, but asked if a little boy had bought
oranges. Not a boy had been near the place.
Phil looked for an officer. Nobody but the uniformed men of the
steamer were to be seen. They were amused, interested, but
stupid; and spoke no language to any purpose, but French.
Phil tried the boys selling newspapers, also, but they were amused,
and did their best to sell him. He tried a bootblack with no better
At this moment, a very portly policeman in full metropolitan
18 A FAMILY FLIGHT.
uniform, strutted with dignity through the spectators and idlers, and
touched the gangway man with his baton.
Go and call the
*l rl l ship's doctor! "
T 1 ~l -~:aii I The first mate was
r UF lA L standing close by, and
L L N DST R am quickened the man
r -a m e who was underneath:
Vlte, vite; par ici! "
'i tDg bo his he cried out, pointing
S_ to the upper deck,
-s where the doctor was
I fact, n-o y standing. The police-
man turned slowly up,
/N-- saying quietly to the
Frenchman, The boy
has broken his leg."
Phil's heart sunk
within him. But he
rushed up through all
the sheds, -jostling
porters and express-
.. men, and steerage peo-
A BOOTBLACK. ple with indifference,
came out into the
sunlight, and there was master Tom, sitting on an upturned bucket,
with a little dirty baby lying across his knees, whose mother, on her
knees, was washing the child's face.
In fact, nobody's leg was broken. That was the policeman's exag-
geration. The incident was well-nigh exhausted. Tom had not been
able to resist the temptation to help these people out from the furniture
wagon which had brought their trunks. The baby was rolled in the mud
by a big dog. Tom went into the mud for him, as his costume well
indicated. And when Phil led him from the scene in triumph, he was
more dirty than he ever remembered to have been before.
ARE YOU READY? GO!
Here's your Sun, Herald, Express, Graphic, and all the late
second editions, for a quarter!"
"Here's your seven fresh oranges for a shilling! "
"Here's your nice new cups--no soft soder about them- towels,
"Please take some flowers," said a shabby girl, courtesying.
But Phil resisted
"Come across the
forward passage here, OE O E WjIB
Tom I can clean ,
you before mamma
sees you "dn w
Actually, the boy l ItI
succeeded in leading u. w"
his'muddy brother to
their state-room unde-
tected. In a minute
Tom's valise was open ; ,
he was bidden to dress
himself in his "next
better-most" clothes. !
Phil loitered on deck,
as if unconcerned, just
as Mr. Horner was
adjusting his wife's I
arm-chair. Mr. Horner
had already forgotten ONE OF THE FLOWER GIRLS.
that Tom was lost.
But Mrs. Horner said, "Oh, Phil, are you there? I was afraid you
were lost too. What have you done with Tom?"
Oh, Tom is in our state-room, mamma. He will be up in a minute."
Thus did the prudent lad save his brother from one reprimand.
"That's better than could be hoped," said his mother. When they
asked for the doctor, I was afraid Tom's neck was broken."
A FAMILY FLIGHT.
One worry had driven out another, and the boys found, not for the
first time, that Tom's absence had not been so much noticed as it
really deserved; the cause of anxiety now was the non-appearance of
Miss Augusta Lejeune.
"I knew it would be so," plaintively said Mrs. Horner. My plan
was a great deal better, that she should spend the night with us and
be all ready to start in the morning. To be sure, she hates an early
"I never could find out," said Mr. Horner, "why we had it an
hour earlier than usual, as the boat does not start till twelve."
"My dear, we should never have got here, if we had had a minute
less time," rejoined his wife.
He looked at his watch. "It is only half-past eleven," he said.
"She is sure to be here."
They were all anxious, though. The two girls, Mary and Bessie, stood
watching the streams of people passing up the gangway, hoping to
catch a glimpse of Miss Lejeune, while they kept up a desultory talk
with their cousins, who had come to see them off, and who stood about
without much to say, beyond envying them the trip, and urging them to
be sure to write. The moment is too confused for deep thought or
the interchange of serious sentiment, and it is hard to fill up the time
At last there seemed an unusual movement at the passage way nearest
them; the buzz of voices, laughter, and gay chattering; and Miss Lejeune
appeared below, escorted by two or three gentlemen and one or two
ladies, all carrying bouquets or parcels.
Here we are," called Philip, leaning over the rail. Miss Augusta
looked up and nodded, and with her escort joined them above
in a few moments.
"Well, Augusta, I knew you would be late !" reproachfully said
"My dear, there is half an hour yet, but I did mean to be here
sooner. It is so hard to get away, though! And we had a lovely
breakfast. See all these flowers! What shall I do with them?
Mr. Strain, do not hold them any longer. Put then down anywhere.
ARE YOU READY? GO! a
Has anybody seen my ship-chair? Oh, thank you, Mr. Horner; how
thoughtful Here it is, close by the others. Are we all here? Where
is my friend Tommy?"
At this precise moment Tommy appeared from below. A vague
thought passed through his mother's mind that those were not the clothes
she had seen him in last; but the idea was diverted by talk and introduc-
tions, and last words to all the friends.
Mr. Agry, the partner of her father, had a great deal of teasing
with Bessie, by way of farewell.
SNow, Bessie, what do you expect to see abroad that will repay you
for going ?" he asked.
Oh, a great many things," said Bessie, rather embarrassed.
"Such as what? Come, now," he persisted.
"Well, mountains and churches -" the child began vaguely.
"ChurchesI now I will venture to bet with you, Bessie, a pound
of the best sugar-plums you can buy in Europe, that you do not see
a single church finer than Trinity church, in New York."
"I do not believe I know how Trinity church looks," replied the
frank Bessie, blushing. "I must have passed it ever so many times,
but I do not look at these things much."
The laugh was against her.
Take care and buy yourself a new kind of spectacles," said Mr.
Agry, "or when you come badk you will not know whether you
have gained your bet or not."
Bessie promised to look particularly at churches in all the cities
she should visit; and it was agreed that the first thing on her return,
Mr. Agry was to take her to thoroughly inspect Trinity church.
and pronounce upon its architectural merits, compared with the
cathedrals of the old world.
A FAMILY FLIGHT.
A ND now they could begin to see what wisdom and what folly com-
bines, in a space not large, as three hundred people from one
continent leave it for another.
Pretty Miss Wither reclined in her chaise-longue, and received the
homage of her admirers, who came to say good-by, while tired Mrs.
Wither, her mother, sat bolt upright beside her, and received very
little homage. One young gentleman had brought a splendid nosegay,
of fifty jaqueminot roses. Another, more modest, had brought fifty
white lamarques. Miss Wither, gracious to both, had one in one
hand and one in another. Then blushing Mr. Jourdan, more demon-
strative, brought fifty moss-roses, and Miss Wither, still trying to be equal
in her courtesy, was fain to lay the jaqueminots in her lap, that she
might have a hand free for the moss-roses. Young Mr. Macullar
sauntered round the group, quite indifferent. But the others all
looked as if they would eat him, because he was going on the ship,
and would be perpetually in Miss Wither's presence, while, alas!
their nosegays would certainly fade. And fade they did; but one,
she had promised to keep, lasted longer than the rest.
On the other side the deck was more tragedy. There, sweet, pale
Mrs. Lampe, in her widow's cap, was kissing,--she could not kiss
often enough, Agatha and Laura, who were on their way to Wiesbaden
to see the grandfather and grandmother whose dear faces they knew
so well, but whom they had never seen.
There's the boy! there's the boy! cried Mr. Macullar. This way,
this way, quick! "
The boy was bringing Mr. Macullar's hat-box, which had been
forgotten at the Windsor.
ON DECK. 25
"Has any one seen a man or a boy from the druggist's at the corner
of Twenty-Sixth street?"
This question was drawled out to Phil by an old lady, who, at
the last, had telephoned for toilet-powder.
His brother Tom joined him, after his rapid toilet, and, dashed a
'''[I'I !.i E ,
,I I I_
,,l:_,-" --,i .. .u:l
HERl FAVORITE ROSE.
little by Phil's brief bat solid exhortations, which, to say truth, affected
the boy more than his father's or mother's did, he kept quite closely
A FAMILY FLIGHT.
glued to him through the half hour which remained to them of
Of a sudden the horses on the pier were checked and drawn back,
and eight or ten policemen, in a column of two, pressed forward. Two
of these men took possession of one gangway, two of another. They
would let no one pass either way. Even the orange-men and newsboys,
impressed by the spectacle, stopped their clamor and gathered around the
gangway, to look on. The commander of the policemen spoke to the
mate of the ship, and in a moment more, four of them, with as many
men wearing the ship's
uniform, were hurried
Phil and Tom were
o a highly excited, a n d
ran and called their
Clearly," he said
to them, "'they hope
to find some fugitive
from justice, or some
\man or woman who
is trying to escape
to Europe; probably
some thief who has
stolen valuable prop-
erty." And as the
S boys looked on and
wondered, they saw,
-- .-in a minute more, that
no one below was
permitted to come up
to them; that no one on their deck was permitted -to go down; no
person aft was permitted to go forward, and no person forward,
to come aft. In a minute more the captain of the policemen, who
wore a newer cap and more gold lace than the others, passed
ON DECK. 21
the guard at the companion way and came upon their deck. He
touched his hat civilly, two or three times, as he passed gentlemen
whom perhaps he knew; he looked very carefully at every one, not
coming near to anybody. Then he strode by the boys upon the
bridge, and looked down on the forward deck. Alas! in a moment
all was over. From the depths of the ship up came a gabbling French
sailor in his red shirt sleeves; and behind him followed the poor
prisoner, with a parcel done up in a newspaper containing his pos-
sessions, and the policeman who had arrested him following the two.
"That is the man," said the officer hastily. "I am much obliged
to you, captain."
Then he called to his men below, "Take him to the station! Good-
day, sir; good-day, sir," and things began as before.
"Here's your seven oranges for thirteen cents!" :
"Here's your. Sun and Herald!" and the boys were: left to wonder
what had been stolen and what the prisoner's name was. Nobody knew,
and, excepting themselves, nobody cared.
And now, very soon, people who were particularly afraid of being
carried to France without their own consent, took leave. Miss Lejeune's
friends bowed and shook hands; there was much kissing of the two
ladies who had accompanied her, and a few last words in a low tone.
You know, if the lace is eight inches wide it will do. I had rather
have the pattern just right, than the width. Still, nine inches is better,
"I know, my dear, exactly what you want; and then I am to give
It to the Smiths if they are coming over; and if they spend the winter
I shall easily find some one else."
There were plenty of well-wishers for each of the party. Phil's
friends and Tom's were, alas! ignominiously caged in their respective
schools, where the masters, tyrants that they were, could not be
made to say that the sailing of the St. Laurent was an occasion of
sufficient national importance to justify a holiday. But many of the girl
friends of Mary and Bessie were there. And one by one they took
Phil aside, and pressed on him little notes for Bessie which he was to
keep secret. one till the fourth day, one till the fifth, and one till the
A FAMILY FLIGHT.
sixth of the passage, when they were to be put on her plate at breakfast
as a surprise. And, lest Phil should forget, Tom received presents of
barley sugar and candied fruit, in return for which he gladly promised
to remind Phil. But Phil said, rather grimly and quizzically, that he
thought he should remember better than Tom.
Thus there was much chaffing and laughing, but Miss Lejeune, even,
was beginning to get tired
of it, and Mr. Horner, who
was unusually nervous on
this occasion, and rather fus,
sy, was bored by all these
admirers. He heartily wished
they would carry themselves
"There is a bell!" he said
pointedly, and true enough,
something did sound some-
where. Every one started,
and the parting-guest-speeders
gathered themselves together
with renewed hand-shaking
and kissing, and promises to
write. If the Horners had
..- written all the letters they
AT THE GUN. then agreed to, they would
have had no time, through
the year of their absence, to go anywhere, or see anything.
The friends now disposed themselves in favorable positions on the
pier, for waving of handkerchiefs and other solemnities of good-bye.
More hardy people, who had done the same thing often before, waited
with audacity, till they should be ordered on shore by the officers.
The sailors were at their posts. Few carriages came down the pier, and
it was fairly still. For every cabin passenger had come half an hour
early, and the steerage people came by street cars, and walked down the
pier. But a messenger would hurry up with flowers, or an expressman
with state-room stores which had been delayed. And at last, with great
fuss and display, came the gaily painted wagon with Uncle Sam's mails.
These were bundled on board with much more parade, Phil thought,
than the occasion justified. When they were fairly hidden away, Mr.
Agry seemed to think the time had come.
Give yourself no anxiety, old fellow," he said to Mr. Horner, as he
gave his hand the last shake; "it will be all right."
"Good-bye, Mrs. Horner," as he turned to her. If your husband
writes a line about business, put it into the fire; if he says a word
about it, kill him."
One kiss, Miss Mary," to that young lady; "you are looking better
"Don't forget a yellow feather for your bonnet, Bessie. Rue Tom
Dick and Harry, Num6ro 99, remember." This was some further non-
sense between them.
"My dear Miss Lejeune, why did not you ask me to come? I
would have exploded dynamite under the offices, killed all the clients
and customers, and joined you gladly.
Phil, 'my lad, good-bye; you are the only level-headed person
in this crowd. Do not let them work too hard, and take Tom
to the Zoo.
Tom, I heard you were lost, but you seem to be all right. Good-
bye, all! Good-bye !"
"All ashore I all ashore I cried the officer in good French-American
Mr. Agry ran ashore. The gangway rolled on shore. The bell rang,
the whistle sounded and the screw turned slowly. Phil saw, with a
certain reverence, the great piston slowly rise. In a moment he and
Tom were on the bridge, and the others resting on the rail. Their
handkerchiefs were flying, the school-girls on the pier were waving
theirs. They could see Mr. Agry tie his upon a stick.
Are you sick, yet*?" cried Emma Fortinbras to Mary, as she waved
her parasol. Everybody laughed at Emma's joke, and these were, as
it happened, the last words which America addressed to the voyagers.
Phil staid on the bridge till the last handkerchief was out of sight;
A FAMILY FLIGHT.
to his surprise and disgust, as he put his own away, he found he was
wiping fresh tears from his cheeks. How they came there he did not
know. He led Tom to see the man at the wheel.
And so in less than half an hour, the pier was deserted.
A few people to whom the parting was a serious one, since those who
now left them were going for a long time, perhaps never to return,
lingered at the edge of the water to follow the receding steamer, as,
after turning her huge bulk with difficulty, she was under way, and
moved off with dignity through the heaving waves. When the long
line of smoke was utterly confounded with the masts a.nd confused
lines of distance, even these with a sigh turned away, and slowly walked
back through the empty warehouses to. busy Broadway.
HOW IT CAME ABOUT'
HOW IT CAME ABOUT.
M ARY was not very well in the spring. They took her out of
school for a while, but she missed the society of the girls, and
went back again. Her eyes troubled her when she was over a
German dictionary, but she did not think of it when she was
reading the novels which would get into the house, although Mrs.
Horner did not altogether approve of any of them, and especially
not of the fine print of cheap editions.
Decidedly Mary read too much and played too little. She was
growing fast, and felt a little superior to the sports of the children,
while she found herself shy and silent in the society of older people.
She took no interest in breakfast, was apt to be late in the morn-
ing, and after looking with scorn upon the cold toast and warmed-
over chop, to hastily drink some milk, snatch an apple for luncheon
and start off for school, in a state of mind described as "cross"
by the younger children. Her mother, having compassion on her,
did not call such hard names, but thought this would never do,
turned it over and over in her mind, and consulted her friends.
Why don't you send her abroad," said a chance visitor.
Don't you think it would be well to send her abroad?" said
an elderly friend of the family.
"Change of scene," pronounced the family doctor. "Send her
In fact a chorus of voices filled the air, echoing, reverberating the
advice "send her abroad."
Now this is a very dangerous influence to creep into a family.
It soon pervaded the atmosphere, and undermined the stability of
A FAMILY FLIGHT.
the very foundations of the house. There began to be a feeling
that perhaps Mary would go abroad, which unsettled the routine
of every day. After such an idea was admitted, anything might
happen. The very suggestion had given a little extra importance
to the girl. She carried her head a little higher, and the color, too
rare of late, showed itself in her cheeks. Almost without discussion
it came to be an established fact that Mary was to go abroad, but
the how, when and where, were still a mighty problem to be solved.
There was in the circle of the family a certain person much
valued and considered by them all, young and old. She was not
a relative, although called aunt Gus by the younger children, Augusta
by the parents. She was supposed to have been an intimate friend
of mamma's, ages ago, in that mystical period when she was a girl.
Papa seems to have taken kindly to her at the time of his marriage
to mamma, and since then she gradually became built into the
family. She did not live with them, but in another part of New
York, very independently, in rooms by herself. For aunt Gus
was not married, but a spinster; one of that valuable class whose
merits are growing more and more to be appreciated as the world
grows older, and they grow younger; since it is a singular fact
that whereas such persons used to be called "old maids" they are
now acknowledged to possess the advantage of perennial youth.
Miss Augusta was highly accomplished, well-informed and agreeable.
She had been abroad several times, and spoke several languages,
"well enough to get along," as she herself expressed it. The very
first thing Mrs. Horner thought of about Mary's going, she confessed
to her husband, would be to have Augusta take her.
But would Augusta go again and leave her cosy little apartment,
all her charities and philanthropies, her book-clubs and cook-clubs,
her Decorative and Useful Arts, her tiles and her embroideries?
For Miss Lejeune dabbled a little in everything.
Miss Augusta would go. She would sell her shares in the Arizona-
Smelting and Mining Company, and go with that. It was now five
years since she had tasted Europe, and she would like to try it
again, and besides she felt it a duty to relieve poor dear Jeanni"
HOW IT CAME ABOUT.
of her worry about Mary. Jeannie was Mrs. Horner. Persuade
any single woman that a pleasure is a duty, and she is secured
And now about the heads of the Horners, came tumbling avalanches
of advice, suggestion and warning. Guide-books and maps poured
in, as it were, at the doors and windows. Experienced travellers
talked to them by the hour of what Mary must and must not do,
as if the future of the American nation depended upon the arrange-
ment of her plan of travel. Long before they had really begun
to think what she should do, or where she should go, or how long
she should stay, all these things had been discussed and decided
by friends and relatives, far and near, who thus had themselves all
the pleasure, and none of the anxieties, of planning the trip.
Mr. Horner contemplated these ominous symptoms rather gloomily,
although he had assented at first to the plan. He was very fond
of Mary, and liked to have her about. He had never been abroad,
and had an idea, perhaps exaggerated, of the size, and especially of
the depth, of the Atlantic ocean. On general principles, he disap-
proved of American girls travelling, and he professed a vague fear
that Mary might be snapped up by some foreigner, by which he
But who can resist the attraction of travel, when it once is in
the air! Miss Lejeune came round in the evenings, and different
routes were discussed. Little time-tables of steamers were lying
about, and the conversation turned frequently on the respective
merits of the different lines. Mr. Horner was all for a Cunarder.
He had always heard they were so safe, and a number of wise saws
of the same description, as that Britannia rules the seas; that the English
steamers are the best in the world; that the captains sit up all night
and change the watch themselves, and that speed is not so impor-
tant as a steady keel. He was even a little disposed to have them
go to Boston and sail from there; since the Boston Cunard steamers,
being smaller and dirtier than the New York ones, would be in
Miss Augusta Lejeune, on the other hand, was in favor of the
36 A FAMILY FLIGHT.
White Star line. She had been put off with Cunarders, -yes, once
even with a Boston Cunarder, all her life, on account of the safety,
and had always longed for a White Star. The reputation of this
line is more estaLished every year, and really it was ridiculous in
her estimation, to doubt its safety, and to allow such doubts to
outweigh the great comfort and enjoyment of the clean, big state-
rooms, and well-ordered management.
Thus they talked ; but as it happened, Miss Augusta even now
failed to go by her favorite White Star line. There seemed to be
no real reason for going first to England, as one of their settled
wishes was to get soon to Paris. The Homers liked to please them-
selves with the idea that so much outlay and expense was for the
benefit If Mary's languages, as well as of her health; it appeared,
in en. sense, to be a waste of material to be travelling in England,
where no dictionary is needed. Miss Lejeune had spent a good deal
of time in Paris, and felt more at home there than in London, and
then the Stuyvesants were in Paris, old friends, who would be
delighted to have Mary come straight to them. And so they one
day decided to cut the little island entirely for the present," as
Miss Lejeune expressed it, and to take a state-room in the French
steamer St. Laurent.
In this way they would avoid crossing the channel, and if they
chose to stop at Brest, they would avoid the channel altogether.
This was Mr. Horner's proposal, whose feeling was that every drop
of the ocean was one drop in the bucket too much; Miss Augusta
held her peace, knowing pretty well that when they were fairly on
the voyage, twenty-four hours more or less would not make much
difference, and that Havre would prove to be, most likely, their des-
tination. Miss Augusta hated so much discussion, though she bore
it pretty well. "If only once we get off," she thought a dozen
times a day, "we can settle everything as we please."
One thing being established, their steamer, plans began to
take a definite aspect; and the delightful task of adopting and
rejecting became the sole occupation of the little circle. Pater
families was getting interested. He talked Eurore with people
M1SH AUGUSTA LEJE]UJ-..
HOW IT CAME ABOUT.
down town who convinced him, by turns, of the absolute importance
of a great many things. One day he came home full of the Fair
at Nidji Novgorod, which they must not miss whatever they did;
other time he brought the prospectus of a pension in Bachiarach,
A FAMILY FLIGHT.
a small town in the western part of Bavaria, where they could talk
the language, and learn more than by any amount of travelling.
On one particular day Mr. Horner came home with an air of
something unusual about him. He got through dinner talking less
than ordinary, and when towards the end, the children slipped off;
as they usually did, especially if the pudding lacked attraction, even
Mary on this occasion, though she of late stayed to talk with the
elders, going away to prepare for a concert,-
"My dear, -" said the father of the family, and then paused.
"Well, what is it, Philip?" said Mrs. Horner. "I see that something
is on your mind."
"Well, Jeannie," he continued, then paused again; but added
with a jerk, "Brown thinks we had better all go!"
All go!" repeated Mrs. Horner in amazement.
There was no question in her mind about the words, though they
might seem to require amplification. "Go" meant go abroad"
and "all" meant the Horners, en masse, The subject had so filled
their minds of late that there was no. room' for any other.
Mrs. Horner gasped a little, and then said calmly, Why not!"
WHAT CAME ABOUT.
WHAT CAME ABOUT.
THUS it was settled that the whole family should go abroad, and
this is why they were al to be found on the deck of the
steamer St. Laurent in the first chapter.
The plan once admitted, excellent reasons were found to cover
each member. Mr. Horner
needed a change. Stocks
had been rising and travel-
ling is always a safe in-
vestment. Its dividends
are good health and good
spirits, funds of informa-
tion and retrospect, with-
out mentioning photo-
graphs and carved work,
Sor the clothes from Paris
-which are brought back
in the trunks of the re-
I I turning tourists.
Bessie was delighted.
AllIn the original plan, no-
body had much thought
S.-about her interests. She
BESSIES BEST DOLL. was one of the plump,
easy-going children, whom
no one thinks much about, because they have a knack of looking after
themselves. She was a year younger than Mary, perfectly well, per-
A FAMILY FLIGHT.
fectly good-natured, quiet in her movements, and prone to accept the
existing order of things. So she had not grumbled at "all the fuss,"
as she might have called it, about Mary's health and Mary's trip; but
now it was decided that all were to go, her round face beamed like
a full moon; she immediately set about packing a small box with
her favorite dolls,- for she was one ,of the girls who kept up her affec-
tion for dolls, even to the age of thirteen, and promised herself that
pleasure until she should be married.
The oldest son of the family was named Philip, but as this was
his father's name, he had come to be called Jack, very generally, no
one knew why, exactly. He at once recognized the advantages of a
long holiday, and total freedom from school. More than any of the
rest, he dwelt on the pleasures of the voyage, and looked forward
with impatience to the trip on the steamer. His mother had to caution
him, in private, not to talk too much about this part of it before his
father, who detested the sea and boats of every description, who visibly
flinched whenever he thought of ten days on the steamer, and wished
they could wait till balloons, or a tunnel, were invented for crossing
Master Tommy rejoiced in the general excitement, and that some-
thing was going to happen. Mary told him he would have to learn
French, or he might starve if he got left by himself anywhere by acci-
dent; he therefore applied himself to acquiring the French names for
things to eat, but his slight lisp, and heedless ear, prevented any very
rapid progress in the language.
It was feared that Miss Augusta Lejeune might not altogether like
the change of plan; but she did.
To tell the truth, Jean, it is a great relief," she said to her friend,
as soon as they had a chance to talk it over.
After the first glow of assenting to go with Mary, I have been
torn with anxiety!"
"You worry!" exclaimed Mrs. Horner, "what -nonsense; as if
single women ever had any real worry."
"I mean on account of the responsibility," continued Miss Lejeune,
if Mary had been homesick, or ill, or anything. Now, you can take
WHAT CAME ABOUT. 43
care of her, ana vesiaes she will not be; and if any admirers make up
to her, you can take care of them."
Mrs. Horner laughed: "No, I think I shall leave that department
to you. You will know best how to handle them."
Ah, my dear," replied Augusta, "that is what I want to say now.
As you are all going, I think I may as well stay at home. I was the
what-do-you-call-it, round which we built the arch, but now it is done,
you may as well take me out."
She said this lightly and pleasantly, but before her sentence was half
through, Mrs. Horner began to interrupt her, hastening to say:
"What nonsense, Augusta, we were afraid you might begin to talk
like that; but we shall not hear of it. Philip says he should not
think of going without you, and I'm sure I shouldn't. We have neither
of us been abroad, and we depend upon you entirely, and as for the
More was said of this sort, and it may be that Miss Lejeune only felt
the need of being urged a little; for she soon gave in, only ending
the subject by saying as she laughed, "Very well, then, I go in the
capacity of female courier to the party."
After this all was bustle and joy for the children, and bustle and
misery for the parents. The servants all gave warning at once, though
the greatest pains had been taken to shut the door whenever the sub-
ject was to be discussed; but Tommy admitted telling his nurse that
he was going to Africa, he believed, one Saturday night when she was
emptying his pockets.
The house, which was advertised to be let, was overrun by applicants
coming to look at it, whose only real object seemed to be finding out
what was kept in the closets. When it was let, which luckily happened
at once, it had to be put all in apple-pie order, and every housekeeper
knows what that means. Mrs. Horner was quite worn out.
But the worst of all was the advice of friends, which had indeed
begun very early in the matter, and the quantity of comforts for the
voyage which poured in upon this travelling family. Mary received
four brush-bags, three shoe-bags, seven catch-alls, and nine omnium-
'atherums, all to be nailed on the walls of her state-room. The other
A FAMILY FLIGHT.
members of the family got almost as many, and while they were trying
to persuade themselves that they would all be useful, Miss Lejeune
roundly ordered that every one must be left at home, as superfluous
on the voyage, and a perfect
nuisance after you got any-
Some of the things people
gave them however were good.
An india-rubber bottle with
a screw-top, to hold hot water
for the feet, Miss Augusta
said one day might go, "al-
though," she added "I never
need any of these things, but
you may some of you be sick."
Mr. Horner left the room,
as he always did when the
voyage was mentioned. The
others laughed, and Mary said,
poor papa I feel as if I were
dragging him to the stake."
POOB MAMMA. Never you mind," cried
Miss Lejeune, "he will like
the stake well enough when he gets to it; I dare say it will be
still harder to bring him home again!"
The fact is that for the Atlantic voyage, which after all is but
a matter of ten or eleven days, it is unwise to encumber the small state-
rooms with superfluous things. Take of course everything you
want, but why accompany your toilet on these days with machinery
which stands untouched on your dressing-table, year in and year
out? If a sea-passenger is sick, the very sight of these decorations
of the cabin is odious to him, and it is a burden to have to move
them about when they are in the way, as they always are, of his totter-
ing steps. If by good luck he is well and jolly, the last thing he desires
is to stay one minute longer than necessary in his close and stuffy
WHAT CAME ABOUT.
state-room. The deck is the goal he longs for in the morning when he
hears the water splashing and slopping about over his head, as the
sailors are scrubbing it down. A brief, though thorough toilette, is all
he can stay for, in his haste to reach the bracing breeze above, for a
brisk walk of several turns up and down before breakfast.
Thus discoursed Miss Augusta Lejeune, the wary old voyager; but
she allowed the excellence of a few things, sea-chairs on the deck, lots
of wraps and rugs, a good novel or two, and above all a bottle of
smelling salts, the kind called "Preston being her favorite.
My dear," she said to any "dear in general who might chance to
be on hand, "you can have no conception of the immense number of
bad smells that keep coming. There are periods when every smell
seems to be a bad one, and then, if you can just put your salts to
your nose for a moment you tide over the sensation, and very likely
you are all right again."
Mr. Horner was so much impressed with this that he ordered a
gross of smelling-salts of the kind she described, and thus each member
of the family was supplied. Miss Augusta herself had an imposing
bottle with a gold top, which some one had given her for her first
voyage; but she declared that the common ones were much better, as
indeed they were.
A flower-pot, containing a tall and branching plant, a sure preventive
of sea-sickness, the gift of an anxious admirer of Mrs. Horner, was left
at home. A.miniature edition of Shakespeare in thirty-seven volumes,
was left out of the state-room valise, and it is feared never crossed the
water. Bessie petitioned hard for her favorite game of Authors,
consisting of fifty cards, and Miss Lejeune reluctantly yielded this
But you will hate them," she groaned, when the ship is rolling
some day, and every one of the fifty cards comes sliding down from
the shelf into a. different place under the sofa." And this prediction
was verified, on the third day out.
On the whole, the packing and preparations went on very well. As
soon as the decision was made for a general departure, an early time
was fixed for sailing. Luckily the French steamers were running not
A FAMILY FLIGHT.
very full at that time and excellent state-rooms were secured for all the
party in the St. Laurent, sailing October first.
It was not without much discussion, and inspection of different lines,
that Mr. Horner made the difficult decision in favor of this one. Where
AN EXCURSION STEAMER.
all are so good, chance is perhaps the best guide in selecting. Miss
Lejeune sighed as she thought of her beloved White Stars, but her
WHAT CAME ABOUT. %7
familiarity with the French steamers, in one of which she "had crossed "
before, consoled her.
One of the steamers was at the wharf at the time they were making
up their minds, and Jack and Tommy went with their father to inspect
it, and see what kind of accommodations there were for the passen-
gers. It was a beautiful day, the harbor was full of ferry-boats and
excursion steamers, the sea' rough, but sparkling and bright, tempting
them to cross the Atlantic at once. The boys gazed with awe at the
immense size of the hull, and with wonder at the extreme smallness of
the cabins; the two were to share one state-room, and they were a good
deal impressed with the limited space to put all their things. Jack, who
had a reflective turn, went home, and considerably reduced the pile
of indispensables he had set aside to be packed for him. Tommy,
who never reflected at all, described joyfully the ladder by which he
was to ascend to his upper berth.
The day came. It was fine. The tide served to sail at noon, so they
had all the morning before them. Mr. and Mrs. Horner, the' girls and
Tommy, were packed into the carriage, while Jack mounted with the
driver. This was because Mrs. Horner, turning nervous at the last,
could not bear to be separated from her family. For the same rea-
son, the luggage, twelve large trunks, and the three portmanteaus for
the voyage, followed close on behind in an express wagon. Miss Lejeune
was to meet them at the boat (a horrible arrangement, Mrs. Horner
thought), but it could not well be otherwise, as she was receiving a
parting breakfast from a few of her intimate friends. However she was
sure to be there in time.
So they drove off, the neighbors looking out of windows, for it
was quite a procession, the servants waving aprons and smiling, the
cook shedding a few natural tears. Ann, the nice woman who had
been with them for years, came out to the carriage with an armful of
wraps, tucked the mamma into her place, poked handbags under the
seats, scolded the girls a little, gave a final tug to Tommy's coat, and
shut the door with a bang. The impatient horses departed at the
They started off Sown the street, the family looked back waving and
A FAMILY FLIGHT.
nodding. Ann seemed to be making frantic signs to the driver. Some-
thing must be forgotten. With infinite pains he was induced to stop;
she screamed out to him:
"Be sure you don't miss the boat."
That was all.
And he did not.
NEIGHBORS AT WINDOW.
T HEY were off. The pier looked in the distance like the
smallest speck, and waving handkerchiefs were indiscriminate
among masts and smoke. Even the fondest love could descry no
further sign of the vanishing friends, and the passengers now turned
to see what could be made of their present surroundings for conso-
lation or amusement.
There is a sad element in the departure of a steamer, even when
you are accompanied by all your household gods. Mrs. Horner sat
with her handkerchief near her eyes. The girls stood quietly by her
side. Tommy and Jack were with their father at the stern of the
ship, the former leaning over the side to watch the churning of the
screw upon the foamy water.
Miss Lejeune was already scanning the deck, to find out, if possible,
the nature of their fellow passengers, and the chance of agreeable
companions, but not much was to be learned as yet, for only a'few
were scattered about upon the seats. Almost every one was below,
"shaking down" into the cabins; and, to create a diversion, she pro-
posed that they should follow this example. Hand-bags, shawl-straps,
bouquets, were now assembled, and an inspection was made of the
premises. Nothing could be more convenient than the arrangement
of their state-rooms, the girls close to their mother, the boys not far
off, Miss Lejeune near at hand.
On the French steamers, the salle d manger stretches across the stern
of the ship, with windows all round, just under the upper deck. This
brings all the state-rooms down below, opening on long narrow passages
running the whole length of the vessel. There are no deck state-
1 A FAMILY FLIGHT.
!ooms, but those below are large and comfortable, each with a sofa
which may be a third berth.
Mrs. Horner privately thought them very small, and could not
imagine why the term "large" had been used in their description.
She wondered how she could ever get through ten days in that "mite
of a place," but decided she should pass most of the time on deck.
Alas! that day was not over before. she was glad to come back to
her cabin, and it was some days before
she made a regular appearance in the
But it is not worth while to dwell
ol tie early sufferings of the Horner
family during the
voyage. Suffice it
to say that after
three days they
were all acclima-
ted, and ready to
enjoy the delight-
ful life on the
S.ocean waves. Mis,
j Augusta is never
sick; her example,
and the salt water
) plunge bath which
it is always possi-
ble to have on the
kept the two girls
we ll up to the
mark. Mary, the
STERN OF STEAM-SHIP.
delicate, was the
one who minded least the motion. Bessie-but we are to say noth-
ing of that. As for Mr. Horner, it was wonderful how he enjoyed it.
All his dread of the mighty Atlantic vanished. He was the first on
THE, STErAMER, h
deck in the morning, the gayest of the party at breakfast, and al-
ways all day in the best of spirits. Freedom from routine and the
cares of business was, most unexpectedly, so great a relief to his
mind, that his wife began to think the great merit of the trip was
going to be this renewal of his youth and spirits.
One morning, about four days out, our party assembled for the first
time in a bevy on deck, in the place where it afterwards became their
custom to establish themselves. It was the first appearance of Mrs.
Horner. She was carefully installed in her sea-chair, and tucked in
with wraps. Now was the time to put to use all the travelling appli-
ances given her by anxious friends. The india-rubber hot water bottle
was at her feet; a patent air-cushion at her back, a knit head-rest
behind her, a crochet affghan on her knees, an embroidered shawl upon
her shoulders; a marvellous sea-hood protected her ears, an uncut
French novel was on her lap, and the celebrated Preston salts in
"Now, mamma," said Mary, "you look like the typical traveller,
"and we shall leave yoc for our usual exercise on deck."
Mary already had a soft color in her cheeks and looked gay and
aniihr.t.d. Bessie was waiting for her below, outside the saloon
windcr and the ti'o started off, to make the whole length of the
deck to the bqws, no slight excursion, and excellent exercise when
repeated half-a-dozen times or more.
"That old lady has come out of her state-room, and is sitting in
there," said Bessie. I was going in to write some more on my letter,
but she looks so pale and miserable, I guess I will leave her alone."
"Oh yes, come along and walk," said Mary. "You will have
plenty of time for your letter."
Mr. Horner settled himself near his wife and Miss Lejeune, who
was sitting upright without any wraps or veils, closely buttoned into
a thick tightly fitting jacket, with her book at her side and her
knitting in her hand. A strip of plain knitting, about four inches
wide was the inevitable companion of Miss Lejeune. Yards upon
yards fell from her rapid needles. No one knew what became of the
stripes. She always said they were for an -ffghan, but the affghan
A FAMILY FLIGHT.
was never seen. She now began, in a low voice, to point out some
of their fellow passengers, and to describe them, as far as she could,
at present. Tommy came and sat down at his mother's feet, and
Phil lingered about to join in the talk.
"Those people are Germans," said Miss Augusta; "odd they should
THE VOYAGE. 55
be on a French steamer. I think they are Jews. See the diamonds!
That fat one is the mother of the little ones, I think -their nosep
are so exactly alike, all of them -but I guess the daughters arn
by another marriage, for they don't treat the mother very well."
56 A FAMILY FLIGHT.
"There's the father," said Jack. He is named Mr. Levi. I heard
the steward call him so."
The captain was walking up and down upon the bridge, a stout
man, with a gold band round his cap.
"He is real cross," said Tommy. "I fell against his legs once,
and asked his pardon, and he did not say it was no consequence."
"Did you try him in French, Tom? asked his mother.
"See," said Jack, "I think that is a very nice family sitting over
on the other side. They are near us at table, and they seem very
jolly, now they are over being sick."
It was all very bright and pleasant on deck. The sun was shining,
a soft wind was blowing, but it was not too cold with wraps. The
gentle thumping of the screw came in like an undertone suggesting
steady progress, with the wash of the water along the sides of the
ship. The sea was covered with bobbing little waves, and all around,
in every direction, nothing was to be seen but the great round world
of water, and the bright glowing sky shutting down over it. Sails
in the distance, and
as yet birds occasion-
ally, were the only
objects to be seen,
except the plunging
porpoises that some-
times followed their
course, humping their
curved backs out of
the water, like a
school of submarine
boys turning somer-
MARY'S FIRST SKETCH. saults.
On the deck of the
St. Laurent all was tranquil. Little groups of passengers chatted
together, enjoying the scene, counting the bells, which strike every
half-hour, and either dreading or longing the approach of luncheon
Mary even attempted. in her sketch-book, a few studies of attitudes
in charcoal, without much success.
"That reminds me," said Miss Lejeune, "that I have made an
acquaintance at dinner, and I want to show him to you. We have
had our end of the table quite to ourselves once or twice, and had
a good deal of talk. He is Mr. Hervey; don't you remember the
Herveys we met at Mount Desert once? They are Boston people,
I seem to remember, and I should think so by his accent; in fact I
believe they have the very best Boston grandmothers. Anyhow he is
agreeable, and is apparently alone, but perhaps all his party are below."
Pretty soon Mr. Hervey came along, and was introduced all round.
He proved to be the very man with whom Mr. Horner had smoked
A FAMILY FLIGHT.
the first cigar he ventured upon. They were soon laughing and
talking of the miseries and comforts of the voyage, and before it was
clearly understood how things got so far, Tommy was perched upon
the new gentleman's knee. For Tommy, though he was getting a
big boy, retained some of the habits of a baby.
Mr. Hervey proved a valuable addition to their party. He was
alone, and confessed he liked travelling alone, and picking up
his companions as he went along. Mr. Horner liked him. They
shared those mysterious rites of smoking and shaving and discussing
stocks which occupy men when they are left to themselves. Mrs.
Horner liked him because he was nice with the children, and for
the same reason he was liked by the children themselves. Mary,
the reserved and dreamy, and the easy-going Bessie, alike took him
into favor. Philip thought he was "splendid," and Tommy must
THE VOYAGE. ,59
have bored him dreadfully, for there was no moment when he was
not close at his heels. But he never betrayed any such feeling,
though he had a skilful way of disengaging himself when he chose,
by attracting the boy's attention to something far off on the ship.
Very early in their acquaintance, he introduced the young people
to the live-stock in the forward part of the steamer. There were
cocks and hens, turkeys, lambs, and an immense great dog not allowed
to move about, but shut up in the charge of the butcher. It is quite
surprising how often he reminded Tom of these animals, and fostered
the interest which Tom readily got in their welfare. Perhaps the
butcher did not enjoy it as well as the others did at their end of
the ship. There was some little stir one day when our young friend
let the dog loose, in the interests of humanity, and as a member of
the S. P. C. A., so that he rushed up on deck and came suddenly
in contact with the legs of a second class passenger, Who was taking
his first walk after sickness, and rather unsteady. It cook several
sailors, and a good many minutes, to secure Master Bruno, and put
him back in his place. Tom prudently retreated from. the scene, and
never was actually known, though suspected, to be the author of
It is well to be able to record that none of the party were very
seriously affected by sea-sickness, and that after some days every
one was in good condition to enjoy the fine weather and the excellent
table of the St. Laurent. They readily fell in with the French
system which is in use on the steamers of this line.
A FAMILY FLIGHT.
E VERY morning Michel, the steward, brought a cup of coffee
and a crooked Vienna roll to the berth of each of the ladies.
Michel was a vivacious, lean little Frenchman, clad in dark blue,
with alert and softly gliding steps, who fulfilled the duties of a
chambermaid very adroitly, making the beds, tucking in and turning
down the blankets, with more than the skill of a woman.
In France, the Horners got used to seeing this, but at first this
man-maid was an anomaly. Michel was very obliging, and it was
cheering to have him come in every morning, with his plateau and "bon
A good comfortable breakfast at nine or later, and dinner at four,
were the meals of the day. There was lunch at some time be-
tween, but the Horners, except Tommy, seldom went down to it,
preferring to pass the long day on deck, and here after dinner they
again assembled, having the coffee brought to them then. And this
was the pleasantest part of the whole, comfortably digesting a good
dinner, reposing on well arranged chairs and pillows, with plenty
of wraps, to see the day pale and the stars come out, chatting gayly
or quietly on all possible subjects. Every one was surprised to find
how agreeable every one else was; there was plenty of time to talk
and think, and discuss, which is seldom the case in our busy American
At four bells in the evening the little party broke up, for only
Tommy was sent off earlier. Mrs. Horner and the girls went to.
bed at once and slept like tops. Mr. Horner smoked a final cigar,
at this time, while Miss Lejeune and Mr. Hervey had a way of stopping
in the dining-room for a Welsh rare bit and a bottle of Apollinaris
which they both declared was the very best thing to go to bed
The business of the bells and dog-watches was a fruitful subject for
talk. The boys understood it at once, the girls got at it after many
explanations; Mrs. Horner did not pretend to understand it, and Miss
Augusta asserted that it was useless to try, because they changed it
so often, a statement Mr. Hervey pronounced unfair, seeing the system
was invented by Columbus, and had been used ever since his first voy-
age without the slightest change.
Tommy was a little puzzled by this, but Philip and Bessie told him
afterwards that once for all, he had better believe nothing that either
aunt Gus or Mr. Hervey said when they were chaffing."
You can believe papa always," said Philip, "and mamma too, only
she does not know much."
And Mr. Hervey," added Bessie, "when he is alone; it is only
aunt Gus that makes him tell lies."
The real fact about the bells is that they are planned for the- benefit
of the sailors, and not for the passengers. The intention is to divide
the day of twenty-four hours, into six watches, of four hours each.
The bells strike every half-hour, first ONE, then Two, till they reach
EIGHT, which of course takes four hours, and then they begin again.
At noon, when eight bells strike, is the time they are most generally
noticed by passengers; at half-past twelve, the light stroke is little per-
ceived. Two bells at one o'clock, suggests to many a biscuit, a tumbler
of iced champagne and a nap, and so on through- the day, each set of
bells has an association that long after the voyage is over, comes back
with the familiar sound. There are two places, one near each end
of the ship, where the bells are struck, so that one set is heard first,
then the other, remote and faint like an echo.
So much seems easy to understand, but now comes the dreadful
subject of the "dog-watch." The watch means six different sets of
sailors who are on duty by turns, for four hours at a time. It would
not be fair to have the same set always on duty at night, which is the
most disagreeable time, and so they change the order by making
A FAMILY FLIGHT.
two half-watches instead of one long one, between four and eight
P. M., thus:
Eight o'clock, P. M. is eight bells.
Midnight, twelve o'clock is eight bells.
Four o'clock, A. M. is eight bells.
Eight o clock, A. M. is eight bells.
Noon, twelve o'clock is eight bells.
Four o'clock, P. M. is eight bells again.
But the sixth watch only lasts two hours, from four to six p. M., and
the seventh, also two hours, from six to eight; so as there are only
six sets of men the time of watching is uneven, and never the
The daily variations of time caused much talk among the children,
and indeed the older ones were sometimes puzzled in trying to explain
these subjects clearly. Bessie had a little watch which had been given
her as a parting present, and as it was her first, she took much pleasure
in winding it up and consulting it. She did not like to "jog it ahead "
as Jack urged her, half an hour every day, and so it grew more and
more behindhand, until it was really easiest to tell time by the bells
and verify it by the watch.
The fact is," she said, we are cheated out of half an hour every
day. To-day we breakfast at nine o'clock and dine at four. Day after
to-morrow we shall seem to be doing the same thing, but in reality we
breakfast and dine a whole hour sooner. So the day we start we break.
fast at nine and dine at four, but the day we get there those hours will
be four o'clock in the morning for breakfast, and eleven o'clock for
You will have the hours made up for you going home," suggested
Miss Lejeune, "then you have to wait half an hour to catch up
with the bells and it seems very long."
Don't speak of going home !" exclaimed Mary gayly. "I wish
we were going all round the world in this very steamer."
Her mother groaned gently. Although her ill feelings were over
she was not fully reconciled to the motion of the ship; but it was
a great pleasure tQ see Mary so soon recovering her good spirits.
The seat at table next to Bessie was always vacant through the
first week of the voyage, but on Sunday, after all were seated, there
was quite a little stir in the dining-room as a majestic old lady sailed
ii, followed by her maid carrying a cushion and wraps. This was
the old lady she had noticed before, Mrs. Chevenix, making her
nineteenth trip across the Atlantic. She was gorgeously arrayed
in a lace cap with scarlet poppies nodding at one side, and a cashmere
shawl was drawn over her shoulders. A delicate girlish color, sug-
gestive of rouge, mantled her cheeks, and the light puffed curls on
her brow were marvellously black. She was led to the vacant seat
by Bessie, and the young Horners gazed at her with awe and
amazement. The captain, who spoke but little in general to the
others, saluted her with great deference, and she at once began a
lively French conversation with him across the table.
"You can leave me, now, Mary," she said to the maid, who had
been adjusting the cushion to her back, and a foot-warmer at her
feet. "I shall do excellently now. I mean to make an excellent
dinner. Everything is sure to be au meilleur on a French ship, and
garpon, tell them to send me a bottle of vin extraordinaire."
She looked about graciously upon her companions, and even put
up her glasses to scan them more closely, whereupon:
You have forgotten me, I fear, Mrs. Chevenix; I am Mr. Hervey
Mr. Clarence Hervey, of Boston," said that gentleman.
Ah my dear sir, not at all; delighted!" replied the old lady
"I should have recognized you at once, but I am so myope, you know;
absolutely nothing without ny glasses."
Mr. Hervey now Introduced the Horners, and a great deal of amusing
talk followed; for Mrs. Chevenix was still a delightful woman of the
world, very agreeable, in spite of her affectations. She told a number
of her adventures on previous voyages with great spirit; but alas!
before the salad was removed, an unfortunate lurch of the ship was
too much for her; she turned pale under her rouge, and moved back
"Mary: I must have Mary!"
Mary Horner, who was remarkably quick and observant, sprang
54 A FAMILY FLIGHT.
forward at once, and half-supporting the old lady with one arm
around her, led her quickly to the door of the salle d manger, where
the faithful maid, who was not far off, received her, and bore her away
to her state-room.
After this Mary Horner became a great favorite with Mrs. Chevenix,
who soon recovered from this last little attack of sea-sickness, and
took her place regularly at meals, entertaining the whole party by her
vivacity and shrewd remarks.
Otherwise, they made few intimacies, but many acquaintances on
the ship. There was a shy and awkward young man named Buffers,
who hovered about the girls a good deal, and finally gained courage
to join them in their walks up and down the deck. He had a small
moustache, which he fostered much, and a cane with which he was
not yet very familiar; but when they came to know him, Bessie did
not laugh at him very much, and Mary pronounced him to be a
There was a pretty wom-
an travelling alone, Mrs.
Freeman, who received a
great many attentions from
all the gentlemen on board,
until one of them grew so
devoted as to drive away all
other aspirants. She was
said to be a
widow, and be
was said to be a
rich bachelor. It
was hoped by all
observers that it
would be a
MRS. FREE MAN. match, and the
assiduities of the gentleman, and the coyness of the lady, were
much watched and criticised.
Tommy found several boon companions of his own age, who bada
fair to make existence miserable by tearing up and down the stairway,
climbing booms, and endangering their lives by hanging over the rail;
but the discipline of the ship was strict, and elders were in the
majority, so that the nuisance of a horde of ill-disciplined children let
loose upon a steamer, was happily escaped. Strange to say there was
no boy of Philip's age, which kept him much with his sisters, and in
the society of his father's friends.
Thus the voyage drew quietly towards its end; an exceptional
passage, every one said, in regard to weather, for they had no storm,
and only a few days of drizzling rain. That it had been remarkably
pleasant, even Mrs. Horner was willing to allow.
On their approach to France, the question came under discussion,
whether they should land at Brest, or go on to Havre. As Miss
Lejeune had anticipated, it was easily decided for the latter course.
Not only most of the passengers, but the pleasantest ones were to
keep on to Havre, and it seemed a pity to break up their agreeable
party till the last moment. As it happened, the stop at Brest was
made in the middle of the night, a few travelling agents were put on
shore in a boat, and the rest saw nothing of the ,place, but- the next
day steamed along the channel with afresh .breeze, and some distant
glimpses of the rocky coast of northwestern France.
A FAMILY FIGHT
IT was low tide when the St. Laurent came to anchor, and it
was necessary to land by means of a tug which came alongside
of the steamer for that purpose. Being Americans, all the passengers
were in a hurry to get off, and each one wished to be tile first to
leave the ship; they crowded about the gangway long before it
was time to go. There was a good deal of wind, and the harbor
was full of little waves, which kept the tug bobbing up and down,
so that now it was high up above the level of the steamer, and now
down below, and it was no easy matter to keep the plank between
the vessels steady long enough for the passengers, one by one, to
Our party stood a little aside, watching the exodus with some
gloom. Much as she had longed for the end of the ten days and for
terra firma, Mrs. Horner wished now she need not leave the dear
St. Laurent, all her fear of the sea returning which had been
forgotten during the prosperous voyage. The boys longed to spring
upon the tug, and were only kept back by moral and physical
suasion. "No hurry," there is plenty of time," their mentors
were obliged to keep saying; they were forced to content themselves
with watching those who went before.
Among the rest came dear old Mrs. Chevenix, of whom they had
become very fond at last, she was so good-natured, in spite of her
little foibles, which they began by laughing at. Mr. Hervey sprang
forward through the crowd to help her; she was quite stout and
rather blind, and decidedly timid. With the captain, who himself
deigned to show her this attention, at one elbow, and Mr. Hervey
at the other,
and with her excellent maid Mary
close at hand, she came to the gang-plank.
Now, Madam !" said the cap-
tain; but before she could ad-
vance, down went the tug
into a trough of water.
"Wait one mo-
ment, Mrs. Cheve-
nix," said Mr. Her-
vey, as up flew the
tug in their faces. THE COAST OF NORMANDY.
Now! "Not yet I "Now now! were the directions following
close upon each other, till it seemed as if years went by, before the
plucky old lady was deposited in safety on the grimy, smoky little
boat, which looked like an impudent little puppy, after their big
A FAMILY FLIGHT.
Newfoundland of a steamship. The Horners followed close upon
Mrs. Chevenix and Mr. Hervey, and the latter, turning quickly as
soon as he saw she was safe, succeeded in swinging the ladies across
from Mr. Horner, who stood on the steamer. They all joined Mrs.
Chevenix, who was in high spirits at her prowess, and very talkative.
"Very polite, that captain, and you too, Mr. Hervey; always
trust a Frenchman for gallantry to the ladies; but I told him that
was the worst landing I ever made, and he ought to have it attended
to. With all the talk about the docks at Havre, it is a pity you
can not get into the country without being drowned and breaking
your neck. But that is the French all over, they are all for la
Bessie did not see the connection in these remarks, for she had
not paid enough attention to the old lady to understand her style.
The tug went pufing and bobbing on its way, and they could
enjoy the sunset light on the water. A packet, crossing the channel
from England, swept along, from which the passengers had. evidently
been watching their late struggle. The people at the bow of the
little steamer all looked fresh and in good order, as if the dreaded
channel had not kept up its reputation for roughness.
Land was soon reached, but'the trials of the party were not yet
over. The stone docks are very magnificent, but very steep, especially
at low tide; there is a long flight of steps, very damp and slippery
at first, built into the stone rampart. It had taken so long to get
off the steamer, that it was already growing dark, and very grewsome
it was to climb one by one the many steps which led to the top;
but at last it was reached. The children, dazed and bewildered
with the jargon of a new language, and by the sudden change from
their sea life, could hardly now take note of events. Philip said
afterwards the only thing he remembered was the queer feeling of
a real bed, at the hotel where they passed the night. He felt the
motion of the ship more now than at any time since the beginning, and,
in fact, it was two or three days before any of them were wholly
rid of it.
No time was to be wasted at Havre. Miss Lejeune and Mr. Hervey
ON THE PACKET.
cast longing eyes in the direction of Trouville sur-mer, only about
half an hour off, and told the girls some amusing tales of that gay
watering place. As the train which they intended to take did not
A FAMILY FLIGHT.
leave till afternoon, a part of the family strolled about the city, saw
the statue of St. Pierre, the author of Paul and Virginia, and the
many modern, not very interesting, buildings of the handsome town.
Far more amusing Philip found it, to look into shop-windows, and to
stare at the strong muscular horses, drawing heavy loads.
The first foreign town in one's experience seems very foreign, even
HAVRE FROM A DISTANCE.
if it is cosmopolitan and modern. The commonest sights and sounds
of the street are strange and new, and it is these that at first absorb
the whole attention. Tommy was amazed and awed. He walked
along silently, holding pretty tight to his father's hand.
Tommy did not practice his French in Havre but once, when, left
alone with the garpon, who was arranging the tray with coffee and
eggs in their salon in the morning, he said to him rather softly,
" Parlez-vous Franpais. "
The waiter did not notice the question at all, he was so busy with
spoons and cups, and Tommy was glad he did not, especially when the
man, tapping immediately afterwards at the door of Mrs. Homer's
room, said with a strong Irish accent:
"Breakfast is ready, mum.''
Everything in the hotel struck them as odd; the windows and doors
d deux battants opened like folding-doors, never shutting very tight,
but with a tremendous clang, with handles like corkscrews, large and
clumsy. This waiter was an amazing creature, who climbed countless
stairs with a tray on his shoulder, containing coffee and cups and long
beams of bread, and oevfs d la coque, which was all they were allowed
for breakfast. They could have ordered beefsteak and even buck-
wheat cakes; but this subject had been talked over before, and they
all agreed with Miss Lejeune's advice, viz: not to carry their national
habits about with them, but to do, in each country, as its inhabitants
do. Their life on the French ship had accustomed them somewhat
to the plan of a light breakfast. They also prepared themselves man-
fully for going without iced-water without grumbling, till they reached
again the land of Tudor and refrigerators.
Mr. Hervey very simply fell into their party for the present. He
joined them in the morning, went with Mr. Horner to look after the
luggage at the Douane, and, indeed, was of great service, from his
knowledge of French and travelling. The French of Mr. Horner,
like many another paterfamilias, was that of the classics, rather
than of daily life. He could recite you pages of Phedre, and was
familiar with the Code Napol6on in the original, but to call suddenly
in French for a bootjack, was beyond him.
It was not long before they were in the train, flying express from
Havre to Paris, and, once for all, it
may be here described how they
usually shook down into their com-
partment. Mrs. Horner and Miss
Lejeune in the seats of honor, the
gentlemen opposite them, and he
children appropriating the win-
1 2 1 3 4
i. Mary. 4. Tommy. 6. Mr. Hervey.
2. Miss Lejune. 7. Mr. Horner.
3. Mrs. Homer. 5. Bessie. 8. Jack.
I 5 6 7 8 I
A FAMILY FLIGHT.
dows. Of course there were changes from time to time
in this arrangement.
It worked very wel1. though not previously planned, that their number
JusL ~lled a railway carr Age; and this they owed, among many nice
things, to the addition ,f Mr. Hervey. There is, to be sure, some-
thing to be said on the other side. A large party, filling up one car-
riage, and always together, is shut out from that corntact- with other
travellers, which is a sciuce of much amusement, and often great
pleasure, to a smaller one. but this' cannot be helped, and the com-
pensation is being free from the annoyance of disagreeable intruders.
On the present occasion, as the train was very full, at a way station
a French woman was crowded in upon them, in spite of their number.
She was very voluble, and full of apologies. She had a parrot in a
ST. OUEN, ROUEN.
cage in one hand, and she put a basket under the seat, which, she
afterwards explained, contained kittens. She would have told her
whole history to Miss Lejeune, who was the only person who could
understand half what she said, but that another place was found for
her by and by, in a "third class," where she belonged.
She left the travellers rather discouraged about their French, but
Mr. Hervey assured them that she talked a patois that nobody could
With this exception, their whole attention was turned to the
scenery from the windows, as the train hurried them along through
a level, somewhat monotonous, but very pretty country, looking "just
like pictures of France," as Bessie observed. Long rows of poplar
trees, or willows, and far-stretching fields with neat little houses on
them, were all delightfully different from Springfield and Hartford.
The trim, well-ordered condition of the road-bed, the tidy little stations,
almost always surrounded by neat, bright patches of flowers, enchanted
and surprised them; they amused themselves by trying to pronounce
A FAMILY FLIGHT.
the funny names of the stations, as they flew by the white boards on
which they were painted. The quiet and method, the absence of
hurry, so different from the bustle and confusion of travel in America,
even now began to impress them, and to tell upon the nerves of the
elders, giving them a feeling of repose, even while in motion.
The trip from Havre to Paris is only five hours, direct, and they
had decided not to stop at Rouen and see the cathedral, while resolv-
ing to do so later. Many travellers have made this resolution, and
failed to come back; but it is not possible to turn aside for every
monument on the road, and Paris is a magnet that draws, with a
steady pull, those who are set towards it.
HOUEN FROM THE RIVER.
So they contented themselves with the pretty view of Rouen, from
the river, as they crossed the Seine.
It was nearly dark, as they drew near Paris, but not enough so to
prevent them from seeing everything distinctly, and the sunset light
gilded the windows, and spires, and little bits of water, making them
-- -L- =i---~
THE ARRIVAL. 15
sparkle. There was real excitement, which they need not pretend to
hide, for all were in harmony, and they had no wish to appear bored
or indifferent, as they approached the great capital of the world,
which has been so often the centre of human interest. Crossing and
recrossing the Seine, they caught glimpses of St. Germain, and saw
and heard the names of places they had been reading about all their
lives; before they could take it all in, through tunnels and by bridges,
and over and under streets they found themselves at a standstill
in the gare (or station) of the Rue St. Lazare.
T6 A FAMILY FLIGHT.
T was dark; the station appeared vast, strange, and gloomy. Our
party was hustled, with the rest of the crowd, into an immense
dreary barn of a place, where they sat upon a hard bench, to wait for
the inspection of the luggage. The gentlemen hovered about near
them, at the same time watching their chances of identifying their
trunks. The first thing had been to secure outside a small omnibus
which would contain them all.
All over Europe the system of baggage checks, used in America,
is unknown. Good Americans wonder why it is not introduced uni-
versally, and perhaps it will be, one of these days. Meanwhile, at
every arrival, it is necessary for each passenger to go and pick out
his own pieces. The boxes are all brought and tossed down upon
a long sort of counter, pell-mell, as they are in our stations, only a
big, separate room is devoted to them, with the hard bench running
round it. Each trunk must be identified, and, what is more, in-
spected by the Custom House officer, and marked with a white
cross, in chalk. This inspection does not amount to much, in the
case of a long train full of trunks, like the present, and the whole
affair passes off more quietly and quickly than might be supposed.
"There is no hurry," is the great lesson which Americans begin to
learn the moment they go out of their own country.
Twelve trunks to be found and identified, seemed like looking for
a whole paper of needles in a hay-stack, in all that mass of big and
little luggage; but thanks to the red and yellow bar, and other
conspicuous signs, Mr. Horner got his things together, crossed off,
and away, in not much more than half an hour, which they were
DEAR PARIS. 77
told was surprising luck. Mr. Hervey, meanwhile, had found his
own convenient little valise, and they now went to their omnibus,
which seemed just a pattern for them. While the tired and timid
Horners sat within, the powerful French porters piled the luggage on
top of the omnibus, climbing up by a little ladder. As each great trunk
crashed down upon the slight roof, they started, and it was indeed
an alarming sight to see such a pile upon so apparently slight a
foundation. But it appeared to be a mere matter-of-course to the
porters; there were, indeed, no Saratogas, and not much sole-leather.
So they rattled off at a brisk trot, and heard, for the first time, the
click of horses' feet upon the Paris asphalt, driving through the
narrow streets to the broad and brilliant boulevard, now all lighted
with streams of gas, within and without the shops, and columns
of electric light. Gaiety, light, movement, are the characteristics of
Paris. New York, which follows fast in its footsteps, has not reached
yet the air of joyous living which pervades the French city.
Even at this hour, people were sitting at the little tables
before the cafis ordering ices or absiithe.
On arriving at Havre, Mr. Horner had found a letter telling him
A FAMILY FLIGHT.
that his rooms were engaged, as he wished, at the Hotel du Rhin,
Place VendOme. He had then only to tele-
graph the hour of his arrival, in order to
be expected at the right time. So now they
travelled down the brilliant Rue de la Paix,
S and round the column to the opposite cor-
ner, and under the archway into the odd
S Little court of the ancient hotel.
r Here Mr. Hervey left them for the present.
He was to put up, much against his will, at
the Grand Hotel, on account 6f a business ap-
pointment there. Promising to see them often,
without any more definite arrangement, he
drove off alone in their omnibus, leaving
'them to shake down in their new quarters.
The Stuyvesants, who were the chief
WAITER, friends in Paris of the Horners, lived' irt
an apartment in the Rue Josdphine, which is one of the
streets of the newer part of Paris, and quite at a distance
from the Place Vendome. But urged by their mentor, Miss Lejeune,
the Horners wisely decided to place themselves in the heart of the
city, near the shops and theatres, the river and bridges. The hotels
are old, and without modern conveniences for the most part, but that
in itself makes them more foreign than the modern apartments, which
are too much like New York houses to be amusing for their novelty.
The older part of the town is more essentially French, and foreign
than the other, and therefore "a great deal better fun." So the
narrow entry and stairway, rather dirty and not very well. lighted,
pleased them more than a splendid modern hotel entrance would
have done. For that, they should have gone to the Grand Hotel,
whose immense courtyards, with wide stairways, elevators, fountains,
gilding and mirrors, remind an American of a New York hotel, and
fail to give that impression of novelty and antiquity combined, which
we ask for in Europe.
So they found themselves soon in a pleasant salon, which formed
the chief room of their apartment, sitting down to a comfortable little
dinner brought to them there. Doors opened from this room, on
either side, into bedrooms for Mr. and Mrs. Horner and their
daughters. Miss Lejeune appropriated a pleasant bedroom near at
hand, although not en suite. The boys, to their great glory, were
relegated to a room au cinquieme, by themselves. This was the first
time that Tommy had ever gone so far from the maternal wing to
roost. Philip good-naturedly consented to look after him, and they
went off to bed in great state, followed by the anxious eyes of their
mother, who feared something might happen to them in that strange
hotel. And thus ended the first whole day of the Horners in a
The next morning, when the boys woke up, the first thing that
met their ears was the click, click, trot, trot, of the horses' feet in the
Place VendOme, on which their room looked. Suddenly followed a
burst of music, from a band in the square. They both sprang from their
beds, and ran to look out. Their window, literally in a French roof,
was reached by a high step and window-seat, from which they could
conveniently look down, far into the place below, and across to the
Vendsme column., just
before them in the
middle of the square. -
My Is it not just
like our paper-weight I" _
The celebrated Ven- _-
dme column has been
reproduced, in reality,
almost as often as it
has in miniature for a
table ornament. It was
originally built by the
first Napoleon, to com-
memorate his victories, VENDOME COLUMN.
in 1803. It was taken down by the, Communists in May, 1871; but
A FAMILY FLIGHT.
as the fragments were preserved, it has since been again erected.
The statue of Napoleon on top has gone through similar changes.
The original one, which he put there himself, made of Russian and
Austrian cannons, melted up for the purpose, was taken down by
the Royalists in 1814, and the metal employed to cast an equestrian
statue of Henry IV. on the Pont Neuf. It was replaced by a monster
fleur-de-lis, surmounted by a large white flag.. In 1831, Louis Philippe
caused a new statue of the Emperor to be put on the top of the
column, cast of the metal of guns captured at Algiers. This was
removed in 1863 to Avenue de Neuilly, and replaced by the present
one, representing the Emperor in his imperial robes, and supposed
to be just like the original one. The other statue, in the Avenue de
Neuilly, was thrown into the Seine by the Communists, in 1871.
Such are the ups and downs of the effigies of the great men of
France, as well as their own, and the dynasties they represent. M.
Mar6chal, the proprietor of the hotel where the Horners were, is said
to have offered the Communists five hundred thousand francs, if they
would spare the Vend8me column. They said: Make it a million,
and we will see." M. Marechal kept his money, and the column
The boys were so absorbed, half-dressed with their heads out of
window, in watching the lively movement of the street, which
was full of little carriages and cabs, the sidewalks crowded with people,
gay uniforms, maids with caps, workmen in their blue blouses, and all
different from the long lines of busy passengers they were used to
in Broadway, that they heard no knock at the door, when their father
came to call them, nor his voice, until he crossed the room and put
a hand upon the shoulder of each.
Oh, papa! is it not splendid fun! Can we go down there right
off?" cried Tommy.
"Dress yourselves first, and stop for coffee at No. 27,"
replied his father. "After that you can go out, if Phil will
The boys thought the view from their parlor was less amusing than
that they had left, for the windows looked upon the street which
leads from the Place VendOme to the Rue St. Honor&. It is narrow
and crowded, and not so gay as the wide square. They found
their family, however, refreshed and animated by the sound sleep of
the night, and soon Miss Lejeune joined them. The boys were per-
suaded not to go out till some plan of action had been made for the
day; and they were glad of this, by and by, when a tap at the door
announced Mr. Hervey, who came thus early to rejoin the party
which he had found so attractive hitherto.
"Forgive me," he said, turning to Mr. Horner, "for mentioning
the word plans, since you and I are agreed on the two essential
rules of travel: First, never to have any; second, never to mention
"You are always saying that," exclaimed Philip, rather impatiently;
"but I'm sure I do not know what you mean."
He means, Phil," said his father gravely, "that it is wise in
travelling not to allow yourself to be hampered by a plan, made before
starting, so much as to lose doing a great many things which may
turn up afterwards."
And then," cried Miss Augusta, "after you have decided to do
a thing, do not go and tell everybody, and thus grow tired of your
plan before carrying it out."
"However," continued Mr. Horner, "an able general must reveal
some plan of battle, I believe, to his troops, before opening the campaign;
and I must say I should like to consult with my aids and lieutenants
seriously before we advance further. Mrs. Horner thinks," he went on,
addressing Mr. Hervey, that we imay as well settle down here for
a month or more, before going further, and thus do up Paris now.
This will accustom us to foreign life, and to the sound, at least, of
French ; and as we mean to leave the real travelling part till summer,
there is no reason for hurrying away from here now."
The young people exchanged glances of delight which was mod-
erated a little as their father went on.
'"Miss Lejeune thinks it might be worth while for the girls, at
any rate, to take regular French lessons, and perhaps Philip; at all
events, we want to have some system in our sight-seeing, and not
A FAMILY FLIGHT.
devour oar Paris like a box of bonbons. Many people go away with
very little idea of the historical monuments of the city; and yet, in
that regard alone, it is one of the most interesting places in the world."
The others agreed. Bradshaw and Murray, maps and plans were
brought out, and a deliberation seemed about to ensue, when Mr.
Hervey, observing the long faces of the younger ones, said, laughing:
"Do not you think they might begin with a nibble at the bonbon
box? Let every one go out and amuse himself as he- likes for to-day.
They can not get lost, if they use their Yankee wits."
The grateful children added their entreaty, and, with the condition
only that Tommy should keep with one at least of the elders, and
with pocket money in moderation, the four youngest members of
the party sallied forth from the courtyard of their hotel for their
first expedition in brilliant, bewildering Paris.
HOTEL DE VILILE.
T HE result of these deliberations was, that the "famille Horner"
were to settle down for a month, at least, in Paris. They soon
fell into a certain routine of life which proved very agreeable. Every
morning, after the usual cup of coffee and delicious bread and butter,
some out-door excursion to "see sights" was made, either in groups
or by the whole party, at noon, or later, they lunched at any good
restaurant which happened to be in their way; but generally, every
one came home to rest or study during the afternoon. At six,
or later, a cosy little dinner was served in their own apartment.
Two evenings in the week, a French abb6, M. Burin, accomplished,
instructed, and agreeable, came to talk French, and to direct the
French exercises of May and Bessie, who found time in the after-
noons, to write and learn what he gave them to do. He proved
so pleasant that every one was glad to join these French conversa-
tions, and he soon came to be considered an important member of the
family group. His suggestions were most useful as to the direction
of their search after objects of interest in and about Paris, and he
sometimes went with them to some favorite point of historic or pict-
The boys were allowed to be free from regular lessons during this
time. It may be thought that too little attention was given to study;
but Mr. and Mrs. Horner considered that the monuments of Paris,
intelligently considered, were in themselves an education for their
children, while the language was surrounding them on all sides.
In fact, they tried to keep themselves as much as possible in a French
atmosphere; and, though careful not to neglect their numerous Ameri-
A FAMILY FLIGHT.
can friends. they
avoided all din.
ners and invita.
tions of a simply
They went oft-
en to the theatre,
stayed at home
in the evening;
the rest and quiet
were most wel-
come after their
active day; and
maps and guide-
of history and ref-
a the tables of their
pretty salon, and
came out every
night for consul-
had not -been
committed to any
agreement to stay
as long as they
did; no one asked
him his plans,
and he said very
little about them.
The Horners un-
derstood that he
had some busi-
ness, and many friends, to attend to in Paris. Nevertheless, he was not
seldom found in their gay little evening-circle, and often joined or
led the morning excursion. Boys and girls grew equally fond of
him; his presence was felt by all to be an addition, his absence a
In the excursions about the streets of Paris, the party seldom went in
a body. Sometimes Mr. Horner headed one expedition, Mr. Hervey
another. Miss Lejeune was often missing on these, which she called
PLAN OF THE TUILLERIES AND LOUVRE.
rudimentary trips, being, as she said, too familiar with many things
to care to repeat; so she spent that time in visiting old friends.
Mrs. Horner saved her strength by resting at home nearly every
other day. But Mary and Bessie, Philip and Tommy, were inde-
fatigable sight-seers, and often slipped off a second time in the afternoon.
They soon got an insight into the topography of Paris, and could
find their way easily, even in the narrow and intricate streets, on the
right bank of the river, wherever they found the most interest.
Their first excursion of importance was the walk through the
boulevards, so wisely recommended by their beloved Baedeker's Guide.
A bird's-eye view of old Paris, which shows the bulwarks as they
6 A FAMILY FLIGHT.
looked before the time of Louis
XIV., gave them a very good idea
of the old limits of the city, and
an understanding of how it came
to be thus laid out.
In the year 1670, Louis XIV.
had these fortifications which then
surrounded Paris, removed, and
the moats filled up. In their place
a line of streets grew up, ever
since called boulevards, and these
streets are still as gay and brill-
iant as the newer ones built to rival
them. Starting from one end of
them at the Place de la Bastille,
and walking to the Madeleine,
gives a chance to see some of the
most striking features of Paris.
The Place de la Bastille itself is
interesting as the place where stood
the celebrated old prison of which
the children had already heard
and read. This building was
destroyed at the beginning of the
SRevolution of 1789, and no sign
-- s of its gloom remains in the modern
column which marks the spot; but
it was easy to call up the vision
of the dismal old dungeon, where
COLOGNE DE JUILLET.
COLONE DE JUILETfor more than four centuries prison-
ers of state were shut up, often for no reason at all but some caprice
ot government. The column of July is erected over the remains or
the so-called July Champions, who took part in the revolution of
1880, which made Louis Philippe king. It is of iron, one hunaredt
and fifty-four feet high. with a figure on top of Liberty, holding a
torch and a broken chain. Near by is the place where Archbishop
Affr6 was killed, in 1848, which again was the last stronghold of
the Communists, in 1871.
Walking through the streets towards the Madeleine, they become
gayer and gayer, the shops larger, with huge windows filled with
all sorts of amusing things. The children took up the plan proposed
in Miss Ticknor's charming book, Young Americans in Paris, which they
had all read and liked very much, of trying to see how many of the
things in the shops they could name in French as they passed by. Bessie
lingered long before a window full of delicious dolls, dressed to rep-
resent a wedding. The bride, a fair young blonde doll, was attired
in a white satin dress with a long train; she wore a veil with orange
blossoms. The little bridegroom stood by her side in irreproachable
costume; the parents, the priest, the bridesmaid and "assistants," as
the French say, were all there.
As they came through the Place du Chateau d'Eau, a flower-market
was going on. The large square was filled with rows of tables heaped
with all sorts of flowers from the country, and although it was late
in the season, the va-
riety of bright and
gay flowers was great.
They passed the
Grand Opera House,
and the Grand Ho-
tel, and came on
through the brilliant
boulevard des Capu-
cines to the Made- THE OPERA.
The three older children, Mary, Bessie and Philip, had made this
trip by themselves; for with the help of a plan of Paris, they found
their way about easily, and they grew to enjoy more and more these
excursions of discovery. Things they found out themselves seemed
far more important than those which were pointed out to them by
experienced elders, and some historical fact, told by a chance ol^
A FAMILY FLIGHT.
woman in a doorway, became far more real than if they had read
it in a guide-book.
They were to meet the elders at a restaurant on the Place de
la Madeleine at twelve o'clock. For a wonder, no one was very late,
and they had a merry lunch together. Philip, in the hope of becoming
a connoisseur in such matters, always studied the bill of fare with
great attention, and sometimes ordered a dish purely for the singular
name it had; as for instance, potage d la gibier de l'enfer. He made,
CHURCH OF THE MADELEINE.
in this way, some discoveries of dishes that were excellent; but in
general the Horners found it wiser to order "un bon bifstek," or
to confine themselves to the dishes which they knew to be solid
and good, from their experience on the St. Laurent. They believed
in good, hearty, nourishing food, and plenty of it; for nothing is so
fatiguing as sight-seeing on an empty stomach. Mary was especially
sensitive to these physical conditions, as her appetite was still delicate.
When she began to be nervous and a little irritable, Philip was in
the habit of saying, "Do be quick, and let Mary have something to
eat! She is getting cross." People are not enough aware how much
amiability of temper depends on a good digestion, caused by regular
and wholesome food.
It is an easy and short walk from the Madeleine through the broad
and straight Rue Royale to the Place de la Concorde. The Horners
especially wished to see the obelisk of Luxor, which stands in the
PLACE DE LA CONCORDE.
middle of that square, to compare it with the one just put up in
their own Central Park, in New York.
"How different it looks!" was Tommy's first exclamation, and
a true one; for although the obelisk itself is much like the one in
New York, the pedestal is different, and the rough corners and the
crabs which are such an important feature in the mounting of
ours, are wanting. The difference is, however, more in the surround-
ings of the two. The French one looks slight and elegant, but
dwarfed at the same time, in the middle of its square, by
fountains and statues and high buildings, and appears less at home
A FAMILY FLIGHT.
than the one in Central Park, standing alone and grand in the midst
of simple and natural scenery, away from the noise and bustle of
The monoliths themselves are very much alike, and the Horner
children were pleased to recognize the cartouche of their friend, Ramses
II., which they had learned to know at home. The French obelisk
was presented to Louis Philippe in 1830,
Sby Mohammed Ali, who was then Pasha of
1 Egypt; in the next year a vessel was sent
to bring it home. The task was so difficult
that the ship did not return with its costly
freight till 1833, and the obelisk was not
erected in its present position till 1836. The
expenses of the whole undertaking amounted
to two millions of francs, and as the obelisk
Weighs five hundred thousand pounds, it used
to be said in Paris that the stone of which
it consists, cost four francs per pound.
While Mr. Horner and the boys, with Bes-
sie, remained in the Place de la Concordo
to further recall its historical associations,
Mary and her mother, summoning one of the
brisk little fiacres which are always to be
had at a signal of the hand or parasol, stepped
into it and were soon rolling lightly over
CLEOPATRA'S NEEDLE AT HOME. the asphalt pavement of the Champs
Elysees. Miss Lejeune had been standing with them, a little undecided
what to do; for an open carriage such as they preferred, only holds
two comfortably, though there is a little seat at the back of the driver's
box, where a young person like Mary may be precariously wedged in.
At that juncture Mr. Hervey was seen rapidly crossing the street
towards them, through the many vehicles, horses and passengers that
crowd that part of busy Paris. He was looking for the party, knowing
it was their plan to meet in the Place at that hour.
'* Ah, here you are!" he cried. "I was afraid I should miss you.
LE PARC MONCEAU. 93
I have been waiting more than an hour for my man with whom I
had an appointment for this morning, but as he has not come yet,
I determined to cut him."
"How fortunate we did not miss you," said Mrs. Horner; "to
meet by chance in Paris seems like looking for a needle in a hay-
Cleopatra's needle, mamma, is easier to find than most," remarked
Bessie, rather pertly.
The Horners did not snub their parents as much as many American
children do, but it sometimes happened.
We are going to see the Stuyvesants," said Miss Lejeune to Mr.
Hervey, "will you walk up with me, and join the others there?"
He smiled. With pleasure," he replied, "but either they must
make a very long call, or we must walk tremendously fast."
"I'll tell you," said Miss Lejeune. "Jeannie, you shall drive
round the Arc de l'Etoile and get out and look at it, if you like, which
will fill up the time, and we will meet you later at the Stuyvesants."
So it was agreed; the driver received the proper directions, and
CHAPTER R X.
OUBTLESS the Champs
Elys6es is the most beauti-
ful street in the world; it is
very wide, sloping gently
upward, for a little more
than a mile, to the Arch of
w h i. Triumph, flanked by hand.
th' some buildings and planted
with elm and lime trees.
The first part of it is -full
of cafds-chantants, juggler's-
Sshows, marionettes, and all
sorts of. gay entertainments,
which make it more amus-
"ing to walk than to drive.
Nurses in white caps pushing perambulators, little goat-carriages con-
taining happy children, girls -with button-bouquets, and a con-
stantly moving mass of passengers fill the broad sidewalks, while
the street is crowded with gay equipages, high-stepping horses elegantly
harnessed, handsome liveries and gorgeously dressed women; for from
two to six are the fashionable hours for driving to the Bois de Boulogne,
which is reached by this avenue.
These things so absorbed Mary and her mother that. on this occasion
they hardly saw the palaces and buildings on their way. Dismissing
their little carriage at the Arch of Triumph, they spent some time
looking at this graceful and and beautiful monument, called the Arc de
l'Etoile, because it stands in the centre of a star of avenues which radiate
from it, called boulevards, after the other boulevards, although without
the same right to the name.
The first Napoleon meant to erect four triumphal arches in comn
memoration of his victories. Two, only, have been completed; the one
in the Place du Carousel, near the Louvre, by himself, and this one,
later, by Louis Philippe. There is a little staircase within the side
of the arch, leading
to the platform, from
which there is a beau-
tiful prospect; but this
ascent was postponed
for the active legs
and easy motion of
the boys. Mrs. Homrer
reserved her strength
for the top of the mUM L H
Tower St. Jacques, which gives the 'best bird's-eye view of Paris, on
account of its central position.
The Stuyvesants lived in an apartment directly on the corner of
Avenue de la Reine Hortense, with a beautiful view looking directly
down the Champs Elysdes. Their rooms, to be sure, were au cin-
quieme, but the stairs were easy and the situation charming when
they reached them, with a little balcony overlooking the street, into which
they could look down and watch the carriages and people made
small by the distance, and hear the gay trot, trot, of the horses' hoofs
on the pavements, and the peculiar cracking of the whips of the
Miss Stuyvesant, the daughter of the house, took Mary out on
the balcony, where they rather shyly began an acquaintance, while
the mammas conversed within. The ladies were old school-friends,
but they had not met for several years, during which time the
Stuyvesants had been living in Paris, and had become a part of that
large American colony, which stays on year after year, thinking itself
on the apex of earthly bliss, but, in fact, having but a dull time of it.
Paris, in the judgment of people like the Horners, is a delightful
A FAMILY FLIGHT.
place to visit for a time, and the best place in the world to study
art, or pursue any special object of intellectual culture; but to live
in without any such aim, it must be monotonous, at least, for good
Americans who are better employed at home in helping the progress
of their young country.
Miss Stuyvesant was a pale, rather pretty girl, a little older than
Mary, wonderfully well-dressed, with very little to say, after she had
asked a great many questions about the voyage, and regretted repeat-
edly that the Horners were so far down town, a thing she took very
much to heart.
Mary was glad when she saw in the distance Miss Lejeune
and Mr. Hervey, coming briskly along towards the house. They,
of course, were the only people she recognized, though Miss
Stuyvesant could tell the names of a number of ladies rolling along
in their open carriages, with bright parasols over their heads. Although
it was now late in October, the day was warm and sunny.
Well, that visit is off my mind," said Mrs. Horner with a sigh of
relief, when they were in the street again, "although we are in for a
dinner there. I' begged Mrs. Stuyvesant to postpone it, however,
till we are a little more settled."
"Mamma, I think Mr. Stuyvesant is a great deal nicer than the
others," said Mary.
"Yes, that is true," her mother replied; "he is an old friend of
your father's and he is very-fond of him."
"So you did not get on very well with Miss Emily ? asked Mr.
"Well, no," said Mary; "it seems as if I had seen more of Paris
already than she has, though I have only been here three days."
Are you tired ?" he asked of the ladies in general; "for if not,
it would be a nice chance to see the Parc Monceau, which is only
a little way off on this street."
These grounds, which formerly belonged to the domain of Monceaux,
were bought by the father of Louis Philippe, in 1778, and laid out.
in a style intended to be entirely novel, differing from both French
and English established notions, so as to surprise and delight the
visitor at every step. Thus the park became at that time one
of the most fashionable resorts of the gay world; balls, plays, and
fetes of the most brilliant description were celebrated there.
The Revolution converted the park into national property; at
the Restoration it again fell to the house of Orleans, but eventually
PARIS UNDER GROUND.
came into the possession of the city and' is now a public promenade;
and although not to be compared with the Bois de Boulogne, it has
the advantage of being within the precincts of the city. The original
fantastic character of the grounds has been to some extent restored,
as in the Nau'machie, an oval sheet of water bounded by a semi-circular
The party were not too tired to spend a little time looking at the
rather gaudy, but handsome decorations in the Russian church, which
happened to be open on that day, and they then returned to their
quiet dinner in their apartment, easily persuading Mr. Hervey to
They found the others still talking of what they had seen; for
A FAMILY FLIGHT.
they had been walking all the afternoon. They crossed the rivel
by the Pont de la Concorde, on leaving that Place, and saw the Hotel
des Invalides, the public buildings along the Seine, the Quai Voltaire
with its open stalls of old second-hand books, where book-lovers were
searching for bargains amongst a mass of apparent rubbish, and so
along the river to the island and Notre Dame. Crossing by two
bridges they were again back on the upper side; passed the Hotel
de Ville, the Tower St. Jacques and the Louvre, with whose facade
they were now very familiar, but whose inside treasures were post-
poned for the present. This was only a sort of preliminary trip, "to
get used to the outside of the places," Philip said. They did go,
however, to see the tomb of Napoleon, under the dome of the Invalides,
and all of them, even Mr. Horner, climbed to the top of the Tower
"Three hundred and ten steps, mamma!" cried Tommy, "and
you must go up there."
"'You really must .though, mamma," urged Bessie, "for it is lovely
HOTEL DES INVALIDES.
A VISIT. 103
up there. You can see everything,-the river and the streets,--it is
just like a map; and off into the distance the sky and the sunset
At dinner they were all talking, more than listening; but every one
laughed when Philip was heard to say: "All the places in Paris seem
to be scenes of bloodshed, and monuments put up by one man and
pulled down by another. I could be a guide to Paris now. All you
have to do at each place is to say:
This was founded by Louis XIV., and destroyed in the Revolution,
rivers of blood, &c.; Napoleon I. restored it; Louis Philippe took
down everything Napoleon put up. Then Louis Napoleon made an
entirely new city of it, and put N on everything, and then the
Communists destroyed all, and there were more rivers of blood."
That is not a bad account of it, Philip," said Mr. Horner gravely,
"but you must not get in the habit of thinking lightly of these rivers
of blood, although you hear so much of them at every turn. When
M. 1'abbd comes this evening, who stayed in Paris all through t!e
A FAMILY FLIGHT.
siege and insurrection, he will tell you that it was no laughing matter
to witness those scenes."
"It is a. pity that the French have such a passion for destroying
their own monu-
( 7 Mr. Hervey.
When I re-
member ho w
S \ i magnificent the
ih a Tuilleries, t h e
SHotel de Ville
and other build-
l.l ings were in
1 1867, at the time
of the great Ex-
was at the height
of his glory, and
then see, as we
i I do now, the
the ravages of
a ,, Kthe Commun-
ists, I wonder
how long it will
NAPOLEON'S TOMB. be before all is to
do over again."
"The French are now building on firm foundations," said Mr.
Horner. "I have a good deal of faith in their new republic."
But only think," said Mary, who had left the table over which
the others lingered with nuts and grapes, turning over the leaves
of her Baedeker, "how many times the Place de la Concorde has
changed its name:
Place Louis Quinze,
Place de la RBvolu-
Place Louis Seize,
Place de la Con-
"And all the differ-
ent statues that have
been up and down in
the middle of it," said
Bessie, looking over
her sister's shoulder.
Now that they have
this good, inoffensive
TOWER ST. JACQUES.
A FAMILY FLIGHT.
obelisk there, it may be left unmolested, I hope," said Mrs. Horner.
"But, mamma, they have had a fight there since, in the Communists'
times, but 'notwithstanding the violence of the conflict, the obelisk
fortunately escaped injury.' "
It was late; Mr; Hervey said good-night, and all retired to sleep