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T. HATCHARD, 187, PICCADILLY.
G. J. PALMER, SAVOY STREET, STRAND.
To MY YOUNG READER,-
PERHAPS, as you read this book, you will some-
times say, I wonder if it is all true ?"
So I must tell you, that all the places visited in
Italy, by Harry Brightside and his friends, I saw
myself, in 1844-45, just as he saw them, with one
or two exceptions, but he and his friends are all
If you should ever take a similar tour, and
suffer some inconveniences as he did, you must
try and remember him, and make the best of
them, and not only then, but every day try and
look at the bright side of things, and also be
more thankful than ever for the blessings enjoyed
in Protestant England, then I shall not have
written about him in vain, and you will have
the hearty good wishes of
Page 34, line 8, for Mrs. read Mr.
46, 2, for his read her.
90, 14 for Baia read Baie.
105, 4,for Mrs. read Mr.
120, 22, for Cumeans read Cumweans.
S148, 8, for pick read pack.
148, 10, for hem read them.
178, 26, for anyread many.
199, 22,for descended read ascended.
Harry Brightside's birth and baptism-Goes to school-Starts
for Italy-Arrives at Boulogne-Marseilles-Genoa-Explores
the city-Leghorn-Pisa-Its cathedral, baptistery, and leaning
tower-Steams away again, passing Corsica and Elb--Thunder-
storm at sea-Civita Vecchia-Naples Page 1
Moves into lodgings-Letter from Mrs. Hugh Vernon-First
Sunday in Naples-Mr. and Mrs. Ferguson and their children
call Mrs. H. Vernon, Mary, and Hugh arrive Sunday
Bible reading-Puzzuoli, its temple and amphitheatre-Street
of tombs-The Solfatara-Church of the Capuchins-The mira-
cle of St. Januarius's blood-Mrs. Ferguson invites the chil-
dren to tea 31
Evening at Mr. Ferguson's-Donald Campbell-Cabinet of cu-
riosities-Game of charades-Villa Rocca Romana-Sea-dog
and butterfly-fish-Harry goes to study with Mr. Ferguson-
Museum of Naples-Pompeian relics, &c. 51
Picnic to Bay of Baia-Ruins of palace of Julius Caesar-Bathsof
Nero-Cape Misenum-Account of the destruction of Pompeii-
The ascent of Vesuvius determined upon-Tomb of Agrippina
-Lunch-Lakes of Lucrine-Avernus and Agnano-Grotto
del Cane-Mosquitoes-Grotto of Posilipo-Virgil's tomb 68
Edith's birthday-Ascent of Vesuvius-Edith's fall-Mr. Hugh
Vernon arrives-Bagpipes-Christmas presents to the king-
Christmas Eve-Christmas Day-Representation of the Nati-
vity in a Jesuit church 83
Visit to Pompeii-Railroad-Cotton-fields-Villa of Diomedes-
Street of tombs-Sentry-box-Lunch and sketching match-
Baths-Forum-Temple of Venus Amphitheatre Harry
sorts his relics-Ride to Cumae-Grotto of the Sibyl-Violets
Herculaneum-Twelfth night- A visit from the Neapolitan
Sibyl-Pictures--The "Formidable "-Mr. and Mrs. Hugh
Vernon leave Naples-Explanation of the Sibyl-Museum
scrolls of Papyri-Statue of Aristides 123
Farewell visits-Villa Reale-Temples of Pastum-Salerno-
Ferry-Ruins-Evening at Mr. Verguson's-Game in the
garden-Packing up-Leave Naples-Mola di Gaeta-Villa
of Cicero-Terracina-Pontine marshes-Appii Forum-Cis-
terna, or the Three Taverns-Albano-Rome 140
The Capitol-Church of Ara Coeli and its doll-Flight of steps-
The Forum-Arch of Titus-Coliseum-St. Peter's-Pan-
theon-Church of St. Paul-St. Paul's letter-Palace of the
Caesars-Mr. Montague- Nero's golden house Vatican -
Catacombs-Church of St. Augustine-Miraculous image of
the Virgin Mary 156
Letters from Colonel Vernon and Naples-Mr. and Mrs. Mon-
tague call-Palm Sunday in St. Peter's Good Friday-
Illumination of St. Peter's -Fireworks Tomb of Cecilia
Metella-Fountain of Egeria-Tomb of the Scipios-Sack of
frogs-Harry's birth-day-Tivoli Lago di Tartaro Lake
Solfatara-The falls Birth-day presents-The Inquisition-
Church of Santa Croce-Pilate's staircase-Mamertine prisons
-Tarpeian rock-Vatican-St. Peter's-Gibson- Statue of
Pompey-Leave Rome 181
Civita Castellana Terni Clitummus Perugia Etruscan
tomb-Thrasimene-Battle-field-Arezzo Cathedral Flo-
rence-Flower girl-Bellosguardo-Galileo and Milton-Pa-
lazzo Vecchio-Convent tale of horror-Pictures in palace-
Procession of donkey-Bologna-Ferrara-Padua-Venice-
Hotel and ferry Campanile-Galileo-Clock-Isola Lido-
Piazzo St. Marco 206
Doge's palace-Bridge of Sighs-Rialto-Arsenal-Cathedral-
Galileo -Hall of Padua-Antenor-Verona-Amphitheatre-
Lago di Garda-Milan-Cathedral-Tomb of St. Carlo Borro-
meo- Sunday service in hotel--Fresco painting-Ascend
Cathedral-Como-Row on the lake-Madame Pasta-Letter
from Mrs. Ferguson-Leave by steamboat -Disembark at
Colico-Chiavenna-Silk worms-Splugen Pass-Fall of the
Medissima-Hotel at the summit-Via Mala 231
HARRY BRIGHTSIDE VERNON was the only child
of Mr. and Mrs. Vernon, of Belmont, near York.
We must only give a slight sketch of his early
life, as the principal object of this book, is to de-
scribe a tour he enjoyed in Italy when eleven
The name of Brightside was given to him for
this reason. Mr. Vernon had a very dear sister,
of the name of Mary. She died at the age of
eighteen, some months before Harry was born.
From a child she had been so accustomed to look
at the bright side of things, so anxious to make all
around her happy, that by some of her family she
was called Mary Brightside," others nicknamed
her the Sunbeam," for she seemed to bring joy
and gladness everywhere; others preferred calling
her the Skylark," for though very fond of her
home on earth, her thoughts, and hopes, and joys,
seemed ever soaring heavenward.
But the name by which she was most familiarly
known was Mary Brightside.
She died after six days illness, So happy," as
she often said, in the thought of being with
Jesus, in His own sinless, and glorious home;
that she begged none around to weep for her as
dead, when she was gone, but to rejoice with her,
and for her, as alive for evermore."
Mr. and Mrs. Vernon did thus rejoice, but their
loss was very great, and every one who knew her
felt that one was taken from them, whose place
could never be filled up again.
Mr. and Mrs. Vernon determined, when Harry
was born to name him Brightside, after this dear
Aunt Mary, whom he could never know on earth.
When he was five weeks old, therefore, on a lovely
Sunday afternoon in May, he was taken to the
village church to be baptized: and there in the
presence of a large congregation enlisted as a
soldier of Christ. Many a true prayer went up
to God in that solemn service, that he might fight
manfully under Christ's banner, and when, as he
lay quietly in the clergyman's arms, and the name
of the child was asked, his godmother, in a clear
tone, which was heard by all present, said Henry
Brightside ;" a thrill of deep interest touched all
hearts, for his sweet Aunt Mary seemed to speak
to them in that baby boy, and a full burst of
prayer went up to God, that he might prove such
a blessing to others as she had been.
In the evening as the baby lay asleep in its
cradle, Mr. and Mrs. Vernon knelt by the side,
and long and fervently did he pray, that his boy
might not only look at the bright side of things on
earth, but be led by them to the far brighter
things of heaven.
When he was seven years old, his parents de-
cided he should go as a day boarder to a school in
York; where there were several other boys about
his age; for though he had been a very attentive
pupil to his mamma, she thought it would be far
better for him to have some playfellows and com-
panions in his lessons.
On a Saturday afternoon his mamma used ge-
nerally to attend the evening service at York
Minster, and as this was a special treat to Harry,
he was glad to find that his going to school did
not prevent it. One of these Saturday afternoons
in September, four years after Harry first went to
school-the sun was beginning to set most glo-
riously, and the beautiful old Minster had so
caught its rays, that it was quite illuminated by
the golden light. Harry entered it with his mo-
ther-more than ever struck with its beauty. The
anthem too was one of exulting praise, and as the
lessons were read, and Harry thought what a dif-
ferent book the Bible was to any other, he felt
very happy, remembering what a good thing it was
to be born in England, for his mamma had been
talking about other countries on their way. As
soon as they had left the cathedral he told his
mamma what had been in his thoughts.
Well Harry, I have been thinking so too,"
was his mamma's reply, and she spoke to him of
the blessings which the Bible had spread over
our Protestant land, and then to Harry's great sur-
prise told him, that his father had that morning
determined to spend the next winter in Italy.
Harry clapped his hands for joy, having often
wished to go there, and by this time they were
out in the fields, he capered about, and quite
shouted, because he felt so happy. As they
stopped again to look at the cathedral, he asked
his mamma, if they would see any so beautiful as
that in Italy ?
She told him the Roman Catholics were very
proud of their churches, and justly so, but she
did not think even St. Peter's at Rome would give
them half the pleasure their own Minster did,
for their was something in the showy services of
the Church of Rome, so unlike the religion of
Jesus Christ, that however much they might ad-
mire the buildings she felt sure it would make
When Harry reached home he ran into the
library to talk with his papa about Italy. He was
then told, they were to start in a fortnight, and
though Mr. Vernon regretted his lessons should
be thus interrupted, he hoped Harry would deter-
mine to study with his papa.
The next Monday morning, Harry quite aston-
ished his schoolfellows, by telling them of the great
treat he had in store. One exclaimed, Why
you will see Vesuvius;" another, "and Virgil's
tomb, how I should like to learn my Virgil
Yes," said Harry, and Rome! only think of
being in Rome! I shall take Arnold's History
of Rome' with me, and find out all the spots he
mentions, and walk in the forum, and see the
Palace of the Caesars, and the Coliseum."
And then all the boys shouted Hurrah!" and
all wished they were going too.
Harry found it a hard matter to attend to his
lessons, but he was determined to keep up the
good character he had gained for attention and
obedience, so he would not look round at any of
the boys, but fixed his eyes on his books.
He left school two days before they left England
that he might have time to pack up. Different
friends called to say good-bye, and to those who
felt interested in their route, Mr. Vernon showed
it them on the map, and one of them greatly
pleased Harry by giving him, as a parting present,
a pocket map of Italy.
The journey to London delighted Harry, for he
felt that they had really started on their travels;
but alas, what a contrast a few hours brought him.
They sailed from London in a large steamboat,
in the middle of the night; and at first they all
slept quietly enough in their berths, but all at
once Harry began to dream very uncomfortably,
something about rolling down a steep hill, and
then he woke, feeling so sick and ill, that he
very soon came to the conclusion he should not
like to be a sailor. He was very bad for four
hours-then feeling rather better, his mamma
consented to his going on deck. So he dressed
himself as fast as he could, for every now and
then the vessel rolled about so much that he had
either to run for it all across the cabin, or cling
to anything that would bear him. Though he
still felt very uncomfortable he laughed heartily
at some of his mishaps. His papa helped him
up the stairs, and as the sea was now becoming
calmer, they both walked up and down the deck,
but the motion of the vessel was too great still
to continue it long. He felt very sick, and in the
hurry of sitting down only noticed some cloaks
on the seat; but to his dismay, something moved
under him, and gave a groan; up he jumped,
when a gentleman's pale face appeared from un-
der the wrappers. He smiled when he saw Harry's
look of dismay, and asked him to remember he
was not a cushion. Harry begged his pardon,
and they both laughed as heartily as they could,
considering that both felt rather bad. By-and-
bye Boulogne appeared in sight, and as soon as
they stepped on to the pier Harry's troubles seemed
over. His mamma found the walk very fatiguing,
for she had been worse than any of them in the
voyage. Harry was so sorry to see her look ill,
and ran on first to try and find a seat. He saw
one about half way down the pier, and came
running back to tell his mamma of it, and
then," he said; You know, dear mamma, if you
can rest a little perhaps you will not mind the
walk being so long, for it will warm us capitally
as we are all shivering now."
"That's right, my boy!" said Mr. Vernon;
"when any trouble or annoyance comes, try and
find some good in it."
After showing their passports, they got into a
carriage, and drove to the hotel.
It was quite amusing to them all to see the
poor people walking about in wooden shoes, and
all talking French so fast.
After dinner, Harry and his papa walked up to
the ramparts, or city walls, as they are sometimes
called, and quite enjoyed the view from them.
The next morning they started early, and for
five days travelled as fast as they could, through
France to Marseilles. Here, for the first time,
they saw the Mediterranean Sea; and as they sat
at the window of their hotel, and watched its
beautiful clear blue waters, Mr. Vernon reminded
his boy of how many countries its waves broke upon.
Spain, France, Sardinia, Italy, Turkey, Greece,
Syria and the Holy Land, Egypt, and Africa.
How I should like to go with it to all these
countries !" exclaimed Harry.
Mrs. Vernon smiled, saying, But who was so
sea-siek, and had such bad dreams ?"
And who was so bad that he must needs sit
down on a poor unfortunate gentleman for a soft
warm seat ?" added Mr. Vernon.
Harry laughed, and replied, But it does not
follow, papa, that because I was ill once at sea, I
am always to be so."
Ah, well," said Mr. Vernon, to-morrow will
Very early in the morning Harry jumped out of
bed to see if the sea was rough; it looked rather
so; and his heart misgave him. However," he
thought to himself, after pain comes pleasure.
How I enjoyed the walk along Boulogne Pier!
I will hope for the best."
None of the party much enjoyed their breakfast;
and there lay the steamboat in the harbour, hiss-
ing and puffing away, as if it wished to remind
everybody it was going to do great things. So
Harry thought, as he looked at it; and when he
found himself really on her deck, he thought too
it would be an admirable invention if some one
could make a vessel that would not rock on the
For two long days he had to bear its tossing,
often wishing the Mediterranean were as pleasant
to be upon, as it was to look at.
At last he was roused from a very uncomfortable
sleep by his papa's voice, Italy, my boy! Genoa
is in sight !" but he could not move till the vessel
entered the harbour; then it was calm, and when
he got on deck, he was greatly surprised. The
houses were quite unlike those in England, and
so large and grand ; and then the people on the
quay were dressed so differently too,-all the
women in white muslin or lace veils, and no bon-
nets, and with very pretty white aprons. They
went to an hotel, although the vessel was to remain
only one night. In the afternoon they quite en-
joyed a drive. The streets are so narrow that
there is only just room for two carriages to pass,
and in some of them no room for carriages at all;
and yet in these very streets are the most magni-
ficent palaces, belonging to different noblemen.
Mr. Vernon reminded Harry that Genoa is
called A city of palaces;" and added, that as he
found one belonging to Prince Doria was open to
the public, they would visit it. They soon drove
up to the door, and all the party were delighted
with the noble rooms; the ceilings all beautifully
painted, and the walls too, and both looking as
gay as colour and gilding could make them. But
what charmed Harry most was the garden. First
of all they came out on a terrace overlooking the
Bay of Genoa, with many a white sail skimming
along over its blue waters; then the pier and its
lighthouse; then, far away to the right, a long
range of mountains called the Maritime Alps, and
all bounded by the glorious sea!
From this terrace was a flight of steps into the
garden, where they saw orange trees with their
green and ripe fruit, and the sweet scented white
blossoms, all on the same trees. These, and the
cyprus, with its dark sombre green, growing on
either side of the walks, formed a beautiful con-
trast in their foliage; there were vases, and sta-
tues, and fountains in different directions. All
this made it quite unlike anything Harry had seen
before. No one lived in the palace. Prince
Doria, to whom it belonged, never coming to look
after it; so that both the house and garden had a
"How different it would look, would it not,
mamma," said Harry, "if we lived here? what
gay beds of flowers we would have, and how proud
our gardener James would be of his garden, for
he said to me before we left home, he did not be-
lieve we should see finer flowers, or a prettier
garden in Italy than we have at Belmont."
Just then they came to a grotto, but, sad to say,
it was in so ruinous a state, it was not safe to
enter. Near it was a monkey, which jumped
about expecting them to give him something.
Harry and Mr. Vernon searched their pockets in
vain. Mrs. Vernon said the only thing she had
was a piece of gum, which she gave him; but
poor Mr. Monkey soon found it stuck his teeth
together, and he made such wry faces, and tried
so hard to get it out of his mouth, that all the
party laughed heartily, and the monkey grinned
away to see the amusement he gave them.
As they left the palace, or palazzo, as it is called
in Italian, they noticed another garden opposite,
which belongs to the Prince. Here the vines
were trained over Corinthian columns, the grace-
ful architecture of which formed a beautiful sup-
port to the clinging branches, with their rich
clusters of purple fruit. The vines were festooned
from one column to another, and as this was the
first time Harry had seen the grapes of Italy, he
was delighted enough, especially when the gar-
dener came forward, and offered him a bunch,
which proved very sweet and refreshing to them
Mr. Vernon wished to see something of the
fortifications, so he ordered the coachman to drive
to the outer wall, for Genoa has three walls; the
first is nearly ruinous, the second was built as the
city grew in extent, but the third has strong for-
tifications, and is seven miles in circumference.
You can trace it, crowning hill after hill. Harry
at once thought of the walls of his own city York,
which he so liked to walk upon.
But, papa," he said, why is it that London
and the large towns in England have not such
walls as these ?"
Is not England an island, Harry ?" said Mr.
Vernon. "Here an enemy can march troops
from France or Austria easily enough, but it is
not quite so easy to find vessels to carry troops to
attack old England. Remember the Spanish
Armada; how God interfered for us there, and let
us be thankful, my boy, for our island home.
York, you know, was much more exposed to
danger than London, at the times of the Picts
and Scots, and the border wars too. You re-
member, in the Museum gardens, part of the
old Roman wall which used to surround our fine
city, is still to be seen; and no wonder, the
Romans felt it necessary to have such a means of
defence, when they had no right to be in England
at all. They were always accustomed too to for-
tify their towns, as we shall see as we travel fur-
ther in Italy."
0 yes, papa," said Harry; "I can hardly yet
believe we really are going to Rome itself! How
little I thought I should so soon be there, when,
in our midsummer holidays, I often went with
you to our Museum of Roman antiquities; and
don't you remember those two gold chains, which
were afterwards sent to the British Museum in
London, they were dug up near York, you told
me, and we fancied they might belong to the
Emperor Severus; for I don't forget he died at
York. I think the old Romans in Italy must
have been sorry their emperor was not buried in
Perhaps they were," said Mr. Vernon; but
I do not fancy they loved their emperor as we love
our own Queen."
No, papa, but there never was such a Queen
as ours before, I'm quite sure."
"You are indeed quite right, Harry, but we
must remember the Romans were a very won-
derful people,-more powerful than any others
that ever lived; and though they had many cruel
and wicked sovereigns, still the same qualifica-
tions for ruling them were not needed as those
for ruling us; so we must admire their wonderful
enterprise and perseverance, for no difficulty
seemed too great for them to overcome."
The carriage now stopped; it had been ascend-
ing a long hill, and the coachman, pointing to
the splendid view around, with a bright smile
said, "Genova la Superba!"
Yes, indeed," said Mr. Vernon; it is well
called La Superba;' for this is the most superb
city I have ever seen ;"-and then he talked for
some time in Italian with the coachman, who
seemed proud enough of his native place.
Mrs. Vernon said she should like to get out of
the carriage and walk about to enjoy the view.
They all stood silently admiring the calm beauty
of the scene. The city is built in the form of a
crescent, the harbour forming the centre. There
were vessels of different nations safely at anchor;
while one fine large ship in full sail, was just
entering the harbour, and seemed to give life to
Harry remembered that his mamma intended
to press some flowers, as relics of Italy, so he
quietly stole away to gather some.
He soon found a piece of germanda speedwell,
and, running back, said, Look here, dear
mamma, is a flower for you, a regular English
flower; would you like to press it to remember
this beautiful view by, the flowers are just the
colour of the bright blue Mediterranean."
Yes, my Harry," said Mrs. Vernon, "and I
shall remember you by it too ; for it will be the first
in my book, and its very name, 'speedwell,' is so
suitable for the commencement of our tour in Italy."
They walked on up the hill, and soon came to
a hedge of the prickly pear, as it is called, or
common cactus. There are many such hedges in
Italy; they look very peculiar, but not nearly so
pretty as the hawthorn hedges of England.
They soon arrived at one of the forts, and very
strong it looked, but no strangers were allowed to
enter it. The road now turned off through a
more cultivated part of the country. The olive
tree grew in abundance, and was quite new to all
the party. The silver green of the leaf made the
trees look, as Mrs. Vernon said, as if they were
seen by moonlight. Some of them were very
old; for they grow and bear fruit to a great
age. Everything seemed novel to Harry, and as
they still saw Genoa below them, entirely free
from smoke, for no coal, only wood is burnt; and
then, as he looked round and saw the sky so
clear, and such a deep blue, and the distant
mountains so far more distinct than he had ever
seen in any landscape before; he exclaimed,
" Why, papa, I had no idea Italy was so very
They drove quickly to the hotel as it was din-
ner-time, and hungry enough they were, for they
had not been able to eat much for two days be-
fore. The room in which they sat was the grand-
est Harry had ever had a meal in.
The Hotel Feder was once a palace, and the
gilded ceilings and painted walls told a tale of
other days, when many a festive scene had been
witnessed there, in the time of Genoa's glory.
After dinner they all went to the Goldsmith's
Street, as it is called, being filled with shops
where the pretty gold and silver filagree ornaments
are made. There were flowers for the hair, and
brooches, and bracelets, all so beautiful it was
difficult to choose. Mr. and Mrs. Vernon bought
several, and then went into a shop which Harry
liked better than the rest, full of coral ornaments,
some white, but principally red.
Here, again, some purchases were made; but
as the coral is very hard to cut, and it is difficult
to find large pieces which are generally required
for the work, the price was high; so that Harry
could not see anything cheap enough to buy for
himself. His papa told him the coral fishery was
not very far distant, between Genoa and the Gulf
of Spezzia. Harry took out his little pocket map,
and there his papa showed him the spot. The
shopman was interested in Harry, who through
his papa asked many questions about the work;
so the man very kindly took him into his work
shop, and showed him his tools, and then asked
him if he would like to try with the chisel and
cut the coral. He did, but in vain; so then the
man began to work, and very hard it seemed.
He gave Harry a small piece of the coral, but
from not being polished, the colour was not
Mrs. Vernon was now too tired to go anywhere
else; so after they had returned with her to the
hotel, Mr. Vernon and his boy started off for a
walk in the streets, which were so narrow that
in many there was no room for carriages, and
mules were used instead.
Mr. Vernon was anxious to find, if possible,
some of the Roman remains; for Genoa was the
first city of Liguria which submitted to Rome.
But, alas! he soon lost his way. They wandered
up one street and down another, till they were
quite tired, and obliged to give up the search.
They came to a shop with all sorts of things cut
out of the fig wood, which is stained as black as
ebony, but is the lightest in weight of all wood.
Harry bought a very pretty little cup and saucer
for his cousin Mary.
How I wish she could come to us, papa, and
see Italy too !"
Mr. Vernon smiled, and told his boy that he
should not be very much surprised if she and her
mamma were to come, and little Hugh with
"Capital! capital!" said Harry; "when do
you think they will come, papa ?"
Mr. Vernon could not answer this question,
but he promised to let Harry know as soon as he
heard from his aunt, whether they intended to
join them or not.
The idea of having his cousins with him made
him so happy, that although he was feeling very
tired before, he seemed to forget that, and walked
quite briskly along with his papa to the hotel.
As he laid down in bed that night, he thought
no bed had ever felt so comfortable before; hav-
ing rolled about in a hard berth for two nights,
sick and ill, it was not to be wondered at that he
thought this. He had only just time to settle in
his mind that it was really worth having two such
nights to know the great comfort of such a bed,
when off he went to sleep, and did not wake till
his mamma's maid, Pearce, woke hNm the next
morning. The steam-boat was to sail at ten
o'clock. Mr. Vernon said at breakfast, that if
Harry liked they should have time to go into the
cathedral. It was the first church they had
visited in Italy, and as they entered and saw so
many of the people on their knees, Harry was
very much struck, but to his surprise some of
these people at once left off praying to beg money
of them. Then there were the priests at the
altar, so frequently turning about and bowing,
that he thought it very strange men should like to
The church looked very gay with red cloth
hung about it, and there were a great many pic-
tures too, and artificial flowers at the altar; alto-
gether it looked so different from the churches of
England, and so tawdry, that it did not give
Harry any pleasure. As they walked away, Mr.
Vernon told him that the priests were repeating
prayers in Latin, with their backs to the congre-
gation, which few of the people heard or under-
stood, and that the people were repeating the
Lord's Prayer in Latin, and prayers to the Virgin
Mary, over and over again, the oftener they said
them, the greater the merit.
Harry told his papa that it was, he thought,
very much like the vain repetitions of the hea-
then which he had been reading about at home.
"Yes," said Mr. Vernon, Romanism and
heathenism are alike in many points, I am sorry
As the steamboat left the harbour, the view of
Genoa was splendid; happily enough the sea
was calm, and as, at first, they kept near the
coast, they enjoyed themselves thoroughly.
Do you see those little white cottages
sprinkled about the mountain, Harry," said Mr.
Vernon; they are inhabited by the velvet-
makers, for you know that is a very staple ar-
ticle of commerce here."
Harry said, he should so like to have seen it
made; but we cannot see everything in Italy,
can we, papa?"
They arrived at Leghorn the next morning at
twelve o'clock, after a good voyage this time.
There is a range of mountains behind Leghorn
of such a singular outline, that Mr. Vernon
sketched it off in his book, introducing Leghorn
in the foreground. He did it so well and so
quickly that Harry determined, as he watched his
papa, to try again more industriously than ever to
learn to draw too.
Leghorn is a very busy, cheerful-looking place,
and when Mr. Vernon told his boy that it was
often visited by the Caesars, and that the Emperor
Nero was so pleased with it that he built a mag-
nificent palace there, and a temple to Diana,
both Harry and Mrs. Vernon looked at it with
They asked Mr. Vernon if they should have
time to see the palace; so he went to ask the
captain how long he intended to remain
Till eight o'clock to-morrow, sir."
"And when does the next train start for Pisa ?"
said Mr. Vernon.
Four o'clock, sir, and there is another you
can return by at half-past seven."
Mr. Vernon had business to attend to, and
then there was dinner; so that Harry was obliged
to content himself with looking into the shops
with his mamma. The coral ornaments were a
finer colour than at Genoa, and they found that
this coral came from the coast of Barbary, and is
very fine indeed.
Mrs. Vernon inquired about the Roman palace
and temple, but there did not appear to be much
of it left, and as she and Harry were very anxi-
ous to visit Pisa, they made the best of their
disappointment. The train carried them there
in less than an hour. They then got into a car-
riage, and drove off to see the famous leaning
tower. All at once they turned the corner of a
street, and there on the soft green turf, quite
apart from any house, was the most beautiful
group of buildings,-the cathedral and the bap-
tistry, the campo santo or cloisters, and burial-
ground, and the campanile or bell-tower
The sky was a deeper blue than is ever seen
in England, and formed just the right back-
ground for the marble buildings.
Mr. and Mrs. Vernon stood for some time quite
fixed to the spot; Henry preferred walking round
the leaning tower. But, alas! when he came to
the side that inclined towards him, and looked
up, he thought it really was falling over at last,
and pretty quickly moved out of the way. How-
ever it did not fall, so he laughed at his own
fears, and went again and stood quite under it.
His papa and mamma now joined him, and
they too felt rather queer as it so leaned over
them. They then went into the cathedral: it
had a great many pictures in it, which took
Mr. and Mrs. Vernon some time to see; but
what most delighted Harry was a bronze lamp
which hung suspended from the ceiling in the
nave. His papa told him that one day, as that
wonderful astronomer, Galileo, was looking at it,
and watching its movement backward and for-
ward-which is caused by the draught of air-it
suggested to him the theory of the pendulum, and
how usefully it might be employed. So Harry
sat himself down to watch it too, for he had learnt
in his lessons on astronomy at school about Ga-
lileo and Sir Isaac Newton, and other such won-
derful men. There swung the lamp gently back-
ward and forward, and there sat Harry still
watching it, for he had fallen into a long thought
of home. At length hi: papa and mamma said
" they would go on into Lne cloisters."
Their form is an oblong square; they enclose
the burial-ground, which is of a most sacred kind
to the Romanist: the earth having been brought
from the Holy Land, in fifty-three ships, by Arch-
bishop Ubaldo, who was contemporary with our
The walls of the cloisters, inside, are covered
with paintings; on the floor is a large collection
of Roman sarcophagi and ancient statues, and
other curiosities, some of which very much in-
terested Harry: but the windows round the clois-
ters were so very beautiful, that all the party
seemed to enjoy looking at those the most.
They next visited the baptistry, which is a
circular building with a cupola, and some little
way removed from the cathedral. Mr. Vernon
explained to Harry that it was not unusual in
Roman Catholic countries to have a separate
building in which to administer baptism.
As they entered, they were immediately struck
with the reading-desk or pulpit. It is made of
pure white alabaster, and rests upon nine pillars,
finely carved, of the Corinthian order; the acan-
thus leaf, which formed the capital, falling over
We shall see the acanthus leaf growing in
many parts of Italj," said Mr. Vernon to Harry;
" and we will gather one and press it to take
0 yes, papa," he replied; I wish we could
get a plant too."
Just as he had said this, the sacristan, who was
showing them the building, sang three notes of a
chord; and then, far up in the roof, came the
echo, not of the three notes singly, but all at once,
forming the chord, gradually dying away, as an
echo always does. And then came three notes
more, with three beautiful responses. Mrs. Ver-
non next sang, and her clear bell-like tones were
a striking contrast to the man's full bass.
Mr. Vernon asked Harry to sing: he felt timid,
but he was always accustomed to obey when his
papa or mamma made any request; still his voice
was so faint the echo could hardly catch it.
" Try again, Harry; sing louder," said his
mamma: and he did try, and three such sweet
notes came, that as echo returned the chord, you
could almost fancy earth had caught a passing
note of the angel's song.
The setting sun was pouring in its rays of
glory, and it seemed impossible to leave the place.
They lingered till the daylight began quite to
fade, singing again and again.
Very sorry were they to go, for each felt they
should never grow tired of such sounds: but as
they opened the door a new wonder awaited
0, papa, what is it ? just look here at these
bright little lights moving about all round us;
they sparkle and twinkle like stars. O how pretty
They are fire-flies, my boy; very little things,
are they not, to carry such bright lights ?"
Twilight lasts a very short time in Italy, so it
soon grew dark As they walked on the soft
grass, the stars shining brightly above, and the
little fire-flies flitting around them, the moon too
rising gloriously-all these, with the deep silence,
made it a scene of such perfect beauty, that Mr.
and Mrs. Vernon and Harry agreed, if they had
come to Italy to see nothing else, this would quite
have repaid them.
Harry had gathered some daisies for his
mamma, the only flower growing there; but when
they got into the train he felt so uncommonly
sleepy, he was afraid he should lose them, so he
asked her to carry them.
He was enjoying a very comfortable nap, when
they arrived at Leghorn, and glad enough he was
to lie down in his bed, at an hotel close by the
The next morning was very sultry, with large
heavy clouds in the sky, and the sea was so calm
that as the steamboat left the harbour the water
looked like glass. In two or three hours, Harry
saw land before them: he looked at his map,
and thought it must be the Island of Corsica;
and so it proved. The mountains on it are high,
and can be seen a long way off. Presently came
another sight of land.
O, papa, this must be Elba," said Harry.
Here, again, he was right, and then they had a
talk together about Buonaparte who retired to
Elba for a long time.
He died at St. Helena, did he not, papa ?"
Yes, Harry; and when I was in the Botani-
cal Gardens at Kew, near London, I saw a wil-
low tree which was a slip from the one growing
over his tomb. The parent tree is now dead, so
that this young one is valuable to all relic lovers."
It was very pleasant to have the sea quite
smooth, and the day passed off very well. Harry
asked his papa what place they stopped at next.
Civita Vecchia, my boy; as you look at it on
your map, you would not pronounce it right, I
dare say, but you must remember that in Italian,
ci and ce are always pronounced as if they were
spelt chi and che, as in cheek in English; so this
place is Chivita Vecchia. We must make an
Italian scholar of you some day. This place is
called the port of Rome, for, although it is forty-
seven miles from the city, it is the nearest point
for sea communication. I do not think there is
much to interest us there, though in the time of
the Emperor Trajan, it was a large and flourish-
ing place, and had a beautiful villa built by him
for his own use."
Night came on, and with it a regular tempest.
Harry was awoke out of his sleep by a tremendous
clap of thunder, and as he opened his eyes, and
looked out of the cabin window, the lightning
seemed to cover the sky with one blaze of light.
The vessel began to toss about, the waves dashed
against its sides; the wind howled through the
cordage; and altogether, it was a scene to make
a much older boy than Harry shake with fear.
He was quite too much afraid to feel sick. Mrs.
Vernon asked him if he was frightened.
"Yes, mamma, very. I do not mind a storm
at home much, but THERE we cannot be ship-
Who was it, my dearest boy," inquired Mrs.
Vernon, who said to the mighty waves, when a
storm threatened shipwreck to a much smaller
vessel than ours, Peace, be still! and there was
a great calm ?' That same gracious Deliverer is
watching over us. He holdeth the seas in the
hollow of his hand.' So we will trust Him even
Another loud clap of thunder came pealing over
their heads, and when it ceased, Mrs. Vernon
again talked to her boy in the same kind and
soothing manner, so that he began to tremble
less; presently, after a little silence, his mamma
repeated these two lines to him-
This awful God is ours,
Our Father and our Friend."
Again she was silent, and Harry said, I I do
not feel half so afraid now, dear mamma, it is
very kind of you to comfort me; you always know
how to do it better than any one else."
Because no one loves you half so much, ex-
cepting papa. Let us remember what God says
about this, Harry,' As one whom his mother
comforteth, so will I comfort you;' do not de-
pend only on my comfort, but look upward to One
who loves you infinitely more than I can, and
who has all strength and power to help and take
care of you."
The storm somewhat abated, and just as it was
getting light, the vessel ceased tossing; for the
harbour of Civita Vecchia was reached at last.
Harry went sound asleep, and did not wake till
ten o'clock. It rained heavily, so that it was not
worth while to land, and in a few hours off they
Two more uncomfortable nights had poor
Harry and Mrs. Vernon to endure, (Mr. Vernon
was a good sailor,) and then Vesuvius came in
sight; but Harry could only raise his head
enough to look out of the cabin-window. At
last, to his great joy, his papa came down to tell
him that they were just entering the harbour of
Naples. He helped his boy on deck, and there
the most glorious sight awaited them!
The sun was setting, a large volume of smoke
hanging over Vesuvius, had caught the red glow
and looked like a cloud of fire, and every moun-
tain was tinged with the same, and the town of
Naples looked quite illuminated Mr. \ernon
and Harry sat watching the scene till, all at once,
it was gone, and night came quickly on. Harry
felt very impatient to leave the vessel, and almost
30 HARRY BRIGHTSIDE.
cross at one delay after another, for examining
passports and luggage. He complained to his
mamma about it, but as he looked at her very
pale face, and saw how ill she was and yet so
patient, he felt quite ashamed of himself.
I was thinking, my boy," said Mrs. Vernon,
of our voyage being finished, and of God's
care over us vhen exposed to so much danger,
and then my heart seemed to fill with gratitude to
God, and with gratitude came happiness. So we
will try and forget small troubles. I dare say
papa will soor come for us now."
FOUR days after Mr. and Mrs. Vernon's arrival,
they were comfortably settled in a suite of rooms,
in a very large house belonging to an Italian
The view from their windows of the bay and
Vesuvius, and the range of mountains reaching to
Sorrento, was most beautiful. Just before the
house were the public gardens, and a wide street,
where there was always plenty to be seen. As
Harry was standing on the balcony, first came
"Punch and Judy;" it was invented in Naples,
and is the most favourite street amusement.
Then came a small cart laden with oranges, and
a number of small children, only half clothed,
crowded round it; some of the boldest trying
hard to steal a few when the man's head was
turned. While Harry was watching it all, he
heard his papa call him, Here is a letter from
your aunt, my boy; and when do you think she
is coming ?"
when, when, papa?"
"About the 18th of October, and as this is the
14th, it is less than a week, you see; and Mary
and little Hugh are so delighted about it."
"And so am I, papa, more than I can tell
Mrs. Vernon now came into the room, and
Harry was much pleased to be the first to tell her
the good news.
Dear little Hugh! do you remember, mamma,
when he was staying with us at home, how he
puzzled old nurse ?"
"What do you mean, dear ?" said Mrs. Vernon.
"Why, mamma, you know he was rather afraid
of the dark, and one night, after nurse had put
him to bed, she found she had forgotten the
night-light; so she told Hugh that she must leave
him in the dark to fetch it, and that he ought not
to be afraid, but put his trust in God. 'But
suppose, nurse,' he said, 'you leave me the can-
dle, and then you can go in the dark and trust in
O yes, Harry," said Mrs. Vernon smiling; I
remember. I hope we shall find him braver
now, for he is nearly five years old, and it was a
year ago he was with us."
Sunday came, and Harry was surprised to find
there was no church like those in England, but a
very large room had been fitted up in a house.
However, it had pews, and a gallery, and an organ,
and looked like a church inside. Before they
entered, Mrs. Vernon reminded her son, that the
same beautiful service, the same Scriptures would
be read in England; and when Harry thought of
this, particularly in the Psalms and Lessons for
the day, he was quite pleased, to feel how near it
seemed to bring his dear home to him; and this
made him listen all the more attentively to the
service. The singing, too, was very sweet; and
the sermon from that text, My presence shall go
with thee, and I will give thee rest."
It was so very appropriate to the travellers, that
Mr. and Mrs. Vernon agreed when walking home
it was quite made for them. This first Sunday
in Naples was a very happy one. The only thing
to make it sad was its being such a complete
holiday amongst the people.
There was the band playing in the gardens,
and hundreds of people dressed very gaily walking
about, to whom it was just enough to hear mass
in the morning, and repeat a few prayers. No
Bible, no sermon, very little, if any, prayer from
the heart, but showy ceremonies, with priests
dressed very splendidly in gold, and lace, and
scarlet silk, muttering Latin prayers, and often
bowing towards the altar.
Mrs. Vernon reminded Harry of that hymn,-
I thank the goodness and the grace,
Which on my birth has smiled,
And made me in these Christian days,
A happy English child."
On the Tuesday morning Mrs. Vernon left his
card at Mr. Ferguson's, the clergyman who had
conducted the service on Sunday, and the next
day the call was returned. He told Mr. Vernon,
amongst other things, that he had no boy of
his own, but two little girls,-Rose and Edith,
to whom he should have much pleasure in intro-
ducing Harry. Mrs. Vernon saw, by her boy's
smile, he would like that very much. She
thanked Mr. Ferguson, and then he settled that
in a day or two he would bring them and Mrs.
Ferguson to call on Mrs. Vernon.
They came, and the little folks soon made
friends together. Harry told them that the next
day he hoped to see his cousins Mary and Hugh,
and then they should begin to see some of the
Rose and Edith told him of so many inter-
esting things they had seen, that Harry thought
they would have to stay a long time at Naples
to see it all.
But we have never been up Vesuvius," said
Edith, for papa has thought us too young."
But perhaps, if Mary and I go," said Harry,
SMr. Ferguson will let you both go too."
They thought this very likely, and hoped they
would be able to see many things together.
The next day Mr. Vernon and Harry went to
the pier, hoping to see the steamboat which was
to bring Mrs. Hugh Vernon and her children.
But upon inquiry, they found it was not ex-
pected till the evening. After tea, when Mr.
Vernon rose to go, Harry jumped up too; but his
papa told him he could not take him, as it was too
late for little boys to be standing about
Harry had so counted upon going, that it was
a very great disappointment, and he began to beg
hard to be allowed to go, but his papa, in a kind,
firm tone, said, My boy, I have told you you are
not to go." IH ~id not turn sulky, as some chil-
dren would have done, but, after thinking for a
minute, he turned to his mamma, and said, '* We
can watch for the steamboat from the window,
cannot we, dear mamma ? and if the moon is up
in time, it will be a pretty sight, and then you will
not be left alone."
Mrs. Vernon stooped down and kissed his
bright face, just whispering, My happy boy !"
It got dark, and as they looked out of the win-
dow, Vesuvius was throwing out such bright
flames and red hot stones shooting up into the
air, that they were quite amused to watch it; and
then the moon rose, and the beautiful bay looked
more beautiful than ever.
There is an island called Capri, twenty-four
miles from Naples, but quite opposite to it.
Presently, on one side of this island, Harry
spied a small white line of smoke.
Look, mamma, there they are!" Very
slowly this little black spot, with its white line,
looking, as Harry said, like a white flag, came
nearer and nearer, and, at last, the vessel seemed
to grow to quite a respectable size; it passed
across the bay, and in an hour more, some little
feet were heard trotting up the stairs, and a couple
more were trotting down as fast; and then there
were such warm welcomes, and dear little Hugh
got so many kisses that he woke up quite bright
at last, for he had had a good nap in the carriage.
The steamboat in which Mrs. Hugh Vernon
had left England had come by the Bay of Biscay
and the Straits of Gibraltar. As it did not touch
at Naples, they were obliged to go with it to the
island of Malta, and from thence back again to
Naples. But the weather had been fine, and as
each of the children were good sailors, after just
the first, and their mamma too, Mary quite laughed
when Harry told her of all he and his mamma had
The following day was Sunday, and, in the
evening, Mary, and Harry, and little Hugh went
into the drawing-room to Mrs. Vernon, to have
their Scripture reading.
Mrs. Vernon told them she thought they would
feel great interest in the last chapter of the Acts
of the Apostles. But before we read that," said
Mrs. Vernon, I think the collect for the day had
better be repeated."
Harry and Mary knew it quite perfectly. Hugh
was too young to learn it. But, dear aunty," he
said, "(I know a new hymn, which mamma told
me this morning, was just the one to say to you
in this pretty place."
I should like to hear it, my dear little Hugh,"
said Mrs. Vernon; and when she had taken him
on her knee, he began:-
All things bright and beautiful,
All creatures great and small,
All things wise and wonderful,
The Lord God made them all.
Each little flower that grows,
Each little bird that sings,
He made their glowing colours,
He made their tiny wings.
The rich man in his castle,
The poor man at his gate,
God made them high and lowly,
And ordered their estate.
The purple-headed mountain,
The river running by,
The sun-set, and the morning
That brightens up the sky.
The cold wind in the winter,
The warm summer's sun,
The ripe fruits in the garden,
He made them every one.
The tall trees in the greenwood,
The meadows where we play,
The rushes by the water,
We gather every day.
He gave us eyes to see them,
And lips that we might tell,
How great His power and goodness,
Who hath made all things well !"
Mrs. Vernon was much pleased with the
hymn, and so was Harry; indeed he said he
must learn it, and Hugh promised to teach it
They then read the chapter through, and Mrs.
Vernon told them that the Puteoli, mentioned as
the place where St. Paul landed in Italy, after his
dangerous voyage, was now called Puzzuoli, and
that she hoped they would all drive there to-mor-
row; so she thought her little Bible class would
like to read about it first.
They were to remember St. Paul was being
taken prisoner to Rome, to appear before the
cruel Emperor Nero. His voyage had been very
long and dangerous,-he was shipwrecked, and
cast upon the island of Melita, which is generally
supposed to be Malta, to which Mary and Hugh
had been taken in the steamboat.
"Now, Mary," said Mrs. Vernon, "read the
twelfth, thirteenth, and fourteenth verses."
"' And landing at Syracuse, we tarried there
three days. And from thence we fetched a com-
pass, and came to Rhegium, and after one day the
south wind blew, and we came the next day to
Puteoli: Where we found brethren, and were de-
sired to tarry with them seven days; and so we
went towards Rome.'"
Mrs. Vernon told them this happened sixty-two
years after Christ. They asked her many questions
about the chapter and the place, and all agreed
they should see Puteoli with double interest, now
that they had read and heard so much about it.
Soon after lunch the next day, the carriage
drove to the door, and all started off.
A little way from their house, Harry pointed out
to Mary a fine palm tree, its beautiful fan-like
branches looked very unlike any tree they had
The road along which they drove was most
lovely, skirting one side of the bay.
Mr. Vernon laughed and said, "he thought
they should soon want some new words to express
their admiration, for 'splendid,' 'lovely,' and
Beautifull' came so many times over."
At last they reached Puzzuoli. It is now a
large fishing village, and some of the houses are
built partly in the sea, for there is no tide in the
Mediterranean. The children of the place came
to the carriage with pieces of paper full of shells.
Mr. Vernon bought a packet for each of the
They then visited the ruins of a large temple,
dedicated to Jupiter Serapis. It was once very
magnificent, but nearly destroyed by an earth-
quake a few years after St. Paul had landed at
the place. After this temple, the amphitheatre
interested all the party very much, for there it
was that so many of the early Christians were put
to death, and probably some of those very men
who had desired St. Paul to tarry with them, were
amongst the martyrs, for the persecution broke
out a few years after the apostle's visit.
Mr. Vernon showed Harry the den where the
wild beasts were kept, it was called "the Vomito-
rium," and it had a passage from it, by which the
wild beasts rushed into the arena of the theatre;
that is, the open space in the centre of the am-
phitheatre, where the prisoners were placed to be
devoured by them.
Harry quite shuddered as he stood on the
ground where so much Christian blood had been
spilt; but when his papa reminded him of the
wonderful courage which animated them, so that
the thought of heaven made them welcome death,
and the honour of dying for the name of Jesus,
who had died to save them, was far more than
enough to compensate them for any suffering-
then Henry felt less sad.
Mary ran to her uncle to know where the roof
of the building was gone, for look uncle,"
she said, "the stone seats go up nearly to the
None of the amphitheatres had roofs, Mary,"
said Mr. Vernon, the old Romans you know
were a sturdy set, and such was their love for these
shocking sights, that they would sit for a whole
day in the most scorching sun to see them, and
as this place held forty-five thousand people, you
can imagine how universal this cruel taste must
have been. Sometimes an awning was drawn across
to shelter the spectators from the sun."
The next place they drove to was the street of
tombs. The road was very rough, and Mary seve-
ral times screamed out she was sure they would
be turned over." Harry felt inclined to ridicule
her at first, but he thought he should not like that
himself, so he advised her to sit down in the mid-
dle of the carriage, and then whichever side it
turned over some of them would make a soft
cushion for her to fall upon.
Mary laughed at this, and as for little Hugh,
he laughed away finely, and said, perhaps he
should just do for a little pillow for his sister.
The coachman now stopped, and said he could
drive no further, so out they all jumped, and soon
came to a road paved with large stones.
This," said Mr. Vernon, "is called the Ap-
pian Way-these are the very stones which were
laid down by the Romans. The road has only
been discovered within the last few years. You
know, Harry, the Romans made better roads than
any people that have lived since."
"Where does this road lead to, papa ? "
To Rome, my boy, and is the one up which
St. Paul went bound as a prisoner to Rome. He
trod on these very stones, I have no doubt, for
foot travelling was the common mode of going
from one place to another in those days."
Yes," said Harry, so mamma told us last
night, we read about St. Paul's going to Rome.
I never thought so much about it before. I should
have been dreadfully afraid to be taken as a pri-
soner before cruel Nero."
And so should I," said Mary and Hugh toge-
It says, if you remember," said Mr. Vernon,
that after meeting many brethren at Appii
Forum, he thanked God and took courage,' so
perhaps even the brave St. Paul, felt rather down-
cast, but help came from God through these good
Christian men, who had come so many miles to
There were tombs cut in the rock on each side
of the road, they had all been opened, and were
empty, but as if nature would do her best to close
them, numbers of creeping plants were hanging
in festoons before the open doors, so that none of
the party entered the vacant rooms, but only
looked in. The children were busy gathering
flowers. Violets had begun to bloom again, and
Harry ran with a beautiful bunch of them to his
mamma. She asked him to dig up a root if he
could: Mary came to help him, and at last with
the aid of a pocket knife, they got up two good
roots. Hugh brought them some large leaves to
wrap round the ball of earth, and then after
showing them to Mrs. Vernon, they hid them in
a safe place till they came back.
Suppose we all sit down on this green bank,"
said Mrs. Vernon, it looks so cool and shady.
It is never so hot as this in England, at the end
of October, is it Harry?"
0 no, mamma! but just look at the sky, is it
not a beautiful blue? Why is it, mamma, the
Romans had their tombs in a street instead of a
burial ground as we have ? "
Mrs. Vernon said his papa had just been telling
her and aunty, that in every ancient city in Italy,
the principal street leading to it, but not inside
the city, was the street of tombs, as it was consi-
dered a useful means of reminding men of their
After lingering some time in this most inter-
Sesting spot, Mr. Vernon looked at his watch and
found there would just be time to visit the Sol-
fatara." This is the crater of an extinct volcano :
a small plain encircled with steep hills. One half
of it is a perfect garden of evergreens and flowers.
Heaths of different kinds, and the myrtle were in
full bloom, and all growing wild; but the earth
in the other half of the ground is too hot to allow
of vegetation. As the party walked on, the smell
became most disagreeably sulphurous, and pre-
sently, with handkerchiefs up to their noses, they
arrived at a hole between two stones, out of this
came a quantity of smoke and steam, so impreg-
nated with sulphur, that all the stones round
were covered with little crystals of it. A bubbling
noise was heard of water boiling, and the earth
was quite hot!
Mary began to be frightened again, and pre-
sently some of the boys who had come with them
as guides, took up some large stones and threw
them on the ground; such a hollow sound came
that poor Mary cried out, she was sure the earth
was not strong enough to bear them." And then
her fears made little Hugh timid also. Mr. Ver-
non told Mary that if she were frightened at this
he could not allow her to go up Vesuvius, for she
would only be a trouble to all the party. Harry
said he would walk a little way back with her to
where the flowers were growing, and Hugh went
with them. They picked up some of the stones
covered with sulphur, but they had passed all the
best. Harry was sorry to find this, but he felt he
could not ask Mary to go back again, so he saia
nothing about it; but she knew how fond her
cousin was of minerals, and knew also that her
fears, selfish as they were, had prevented his get-
ting them, and she felt so ashamed of herself, and
vexed about it, that she determined to be a braver
girl in future. She proposed to Harry to go to
meet his uncle, and as they joined him, one of the
guides had just buried a piece of silver money in
the earth for a minute. When it was taken out
it had turned quite black, and was too hot to hold
The whole party thought this Solfatara a very
wonderful place. Mr. Vernon told Mary there
was not much fear of the earth falling through
with them, though it did sound so hollow, for the
guide, who was a most intelligent man, had been
telling him, that when Buonaparte visited the
place he had the crater bored, and found that
there was two hundred feet depth of earth, and
then boiling water, with a strong deposit in it of
sulphur, ammonia, and some iron.
When leaving this place, they noticed a church
built close on one of the hills, which form the
side of the crater. It is called the Church of the
Capuchins-that is an order of monks-but, poor
fellows, the smell from the Solfaltara is so strong,
that they are obliged to go away all the summer
and had not yet returned.
But how foolish to build a church in such a
place," said Harry.
Mr. Vernon-" I will tell you how it is, my boy.
Do you not remember in the amphitheatre, we
noticed when leaving, a small chapel built in one
of the passages. I told you it was in honour of
St. Januarius. Now our guide has been telling
me that the Romanists teach the people this non-
sense, they say that Januarius was once in a time
of persecution exposed to bears, in the amphi-
theatre, to be devoured by them: but as soon as
they saw the saint, they fell down before him,
five thousand people were converted to Christian-
ity by this miracle, and Timotheus, a lieutenant of
the Emperor Diocletian, was so angry about it,
that he cut off the saint's head, just where this
church stands. If it were open the monks would
show you the stone on which it was done, with
the mark of his blood. But to make the miracle
more wonderful, it is said, a Neapolitan lady col-
lected two vials full of his blood, during his mar-
These, with the saint's head, were taken to ',e
cathedral in Naples. Three times a year, that is
in May, September and December, this blood be-
comes as they pretend, miraculously liquid.
Hundreds of persons assemble in the church
to see it. The priests hold the bottles up to show
the people how thick it is, and then if it continue
so long, all present cry and groan, because they
think some evil will happen to the city: but at
last, after putting the bottles close to the skull of
the saint, the blood becomes quite liquid. Then
the people shout for joy, and press forward in
crowds to kiss the bottles !"
Harry--" And do all the people really believe
it, papa ?"
Mr. Vernon--" Yes, I fear they do; you see
the priests wish them to believe it, because it
gives them great power when the people thus
think they can work miracles.
But I must tell you, that once, a few years
ago, the blood was so long before it liquified, and
the people became so excited, the king feared an
outbreak amongst them, and as he was not at all
popular, he did not know where it might end:
so he sent word to the priests, that if the miracle
did not take place at once, he would march down
his soldiers upon the people. Of course this
liquified the blood very soon. So you see, Harry,
he must know it is a trick of the priests altoge-
ther, and yet for two or three hundred years this
tricking has gone on, and I am afraid will con-
tinue to go on."
Mrs. Vernon reminded Harry that they had
noticed one day a large figure of the saint on a
bridge in the road to Vesuvius.
O yes, mamma, and he was holding up his
hand towards the mountain, as if he would stop
the lava from coming to the city. I remember
you told me the Neapolitans prayed to this saint,
when an eruption came, instead of to God."
Mary was greatly astonished, and little Hugh
too, when they heard this; and as the carriage
drove home, and they were talking over all they
had seen, Mr. Vernon reminded them of the
contrast between the time when St. Paul landed
at Puteoli a prisoner, bound by a chain to a
Roman soldier, ready to die, for having simply
and boldly preached the gospel of our Lord Jesus
Christ, and now with the people still calling them-
selves Christians, yet worshipping images and
bones and blood, the very name of Jesus scarcely
being known amongst them, and the saints and
the Virgin Mary being prayed to instead.
Just after their arrival at home, Mr. Ferguson
called. He said he could not stay long, but he
had come to ask Mr. and Mrs. Vernon if they
would allow Harry to come to tea at his house
the next day; and then, turning to Mrs. Hugh
Vernon, he asked her to let Mary and Hugh
Leave was soon given, to the great pleasure of
each of the children, and then Mr. Ferguson
said to them he should have a new friend to
introduce, Donald Campbell. He told Mr. Ver-
non that this boy was an orphan: his parents
had been most intimate friends of his and Mrs.
Ferguson's, and that he had come to live with
them for awhile.
50 HARRY BRIGHTSIDE.
Harry was pleased enough to hear he was
only a year older than himself, and he and Mary
settled that their little party at Naples would
now be very complete.
THREE merry light hearts had Harry, Mary, and
Hugh, as they walked with the maid, Pearce, to Mr.
Ferguson's; they were tellingher all about the places
they had visited the day before, when they arrived
at the house. Rose and Edith came running
down the stairs to meet them, and after they had
taken off their things, they went into the draw-
ing-room, where Donald was standing by the side
of Mr. and Mrs. Ferguson. He was a very hand-
some boy, and considerably taller than Harry,
with dark hair and eyes, which formed quite a
contrast to the light hair and clear blue eye of
In the course of the evening Mr. Ferguson
showed them his cabinet of curiosities. He had
only been one year in Naples, having been ap-
pointed chaplain to the English there, so that his
drawers were not nearly full. First of all there
were specimens which he had collected of the
various granites, and different lava found on
Vesuvius; and the green, and pink* and blue,
and purple jewels, as they are called, which are
thrown out of the crater, and when cut and set in
gold, look very pretty, just like emerald, and
topaz, and amethyst.
Rose and Edith showed Mary some hearts
made of these stones which their mamma had
Underneath the drawers was a closet, in which
were ancient lamps and jugs and vases; they had
been found in different Roman tombs in the
Mr. Ferguson then opened a box in which he
said was something very precious to him.
What is it?" said Harry.
It is called a scarabeus, and was dug out of
an Etruscan tomb near Rome; and here also is
a small vase which came from another tomb."
That thing you call a scarabeus," said Donald,
looks to me only like a beetle."
That is just what it is, Donald," said
Mr. Ferguson. "This is a charm, and was
once worn round the neck of an Etruscan.
The Etruscans were of Egyptian origin, and
both nations used this charm.. They saw in this
beetle an image of the Creator, because it forms
a ball of earth with its hind legs, in which it
deposits its eggs, an emblem of this world of
ours, created and influenced in every part by
This charm was always made of some opaque
substance to signify that the Creator is only half
understood. They were first worn as an orna-
ment only, and some have been found which are
believed to be of an earlier date than the pa-
triarch Abraham, but afterwards they were wor-
How long ago did the Etruscans live, sir ?"
Mr Ferguson-" Etruria was in its glory at the
time of the foundation of Rome, seven hundred and
fifty-three years before Christ; and Veii, an Etrus-
can city, was destroyed by Camillus, four hundred
and fifty years before Christ; indeed, the all-
conquering Romans and the Gauls gradually
brought the Etruscans into subjection, and we
know little more of them than we can learn from
Harry--"Well, I thought when I came to
Italy the oldest things I should see would be
Roman, but I suppose now that these Etruscans
must have been cousins to Ham, the son of Noah,
who went into Egypt after the flood."
Mr. Ferguson laughed. "Not quite so near
as cousins, my boy, but descendants of his at
any rate. Look, here is a model of an Etruscan
tomb I bought the other day. You see they did
not burn their dead like the Romans. Here is
the skeleton; and look at all the vases placed
round. Sometimes very beautiful jewels are
found with the dead, and if you should go to
Rome, you will see a fine collection of them in
"Now, dear papa," cried Edith, "let us bury
these Etruscans, for I so want a game."
No," replied Donald; we wont come for
"Wait a minute, my child," said Mr. Fergu-
son; "I must show Harry a few more things.
Here, Harry, is another scarabeus; you see there
is a very ugly figure cut in the stone on the back
of it. The Etruscans thought the more ugly the
figure engraved, the more fortunate and the
greater the charm."
After looking through the cabinet, Donald
wanted to show Harry some crystals he had
brought from Scotland, but Harry proposed a
game at charades, as he knew that then Rose and
Edith would join them; for Donald's rude and
sharp remark to Edith, determined him to be
more polite than ever.
They chose the word "Porcupine ;" and their
first scene was in Egypt; they pretended to be
building the Pyramids, and, like true sons of
Ham, made a hearty meal on pork.
Mr. and Mrs. Ferguson laughed heartily at the
young Egyptians, with a large bean hung round
their necks as a charm, in pretence for scarabei.
While they were busy preparing, Mrs. Ferguson
asked little Hugh where his papa was.
"In India I think," was the reply; "but
mamma wrote to tell him she was well enough to
come here; and only think she says papa may
come here too, we have not seen him such a very
long time! Mary and I were born in India."
"That will indeed be delightful," said Mrs.
Just then the charade-players burst into the
room, and as they had then come to the whole
word Porcupine," there was not much difficulty
in guessing it; for, with merry bursts of laugh-
ter, they brought in a loaf stuck all over with real
porcupine's quills, which had been given to Rose
Harry had cut the loaf into something like the
right shape, but still it was a very comical-looking
I think," said Mr. Ferguson. if you were to
take it to the Villa Rocca Romana, the gardener
would show you his stuffed porcupines with great
triumph in contrast to yours."
"What villa do you mean, sir ?" said Donald
and Harry both together.
O, I must leave my girls to tell you about it."
And so they did; and told them too of such
wonders to be seen, that it was settled Mr. and
Mrs. Ferguson should take all the party to the
gardens of the villa, the first spare afternoon, and
ask Mr. and Mrs. Vernon to go too.
Fortunately one soon came, and off started the
whole party. The children had filled their poc-
kets with bread and biscuits, and were chatting
away as fast as children's tongues could go (and
that is very fast sometimes), when Edith cried out,
" Here we are !"
The garden gate was opened, and Mr. Ferguson
asked the gardener if his master would allow their
party to walk through the gardens. He gave him
his card, and the man soon returned to say his mas-
ter would be most happy to allow them to do so.
First of all they came to a number of rare
birds, and amongst them some white peacocks.
Two of them spread out their tails as soon as
they saw the children; and as they picked up
some biscuit, and then walked away with their
proud strut, Mrs. Vernon said she could only
compare their fan-like tails to beautiful lace. As
the party were just walking away, a coloured pea-
cock, such as we commonly see, put up his tail
too; and the contrast between his colours and the
pure white of the others, was very pretty.
There was a summer-house built just at the
edge of the rock over the sea; it was in the
shape of a Chinese pagoda, and beautifully
painted inside, with sofas all round; a bookcase
filled with books, and everything to help you to
spend a morning most agreeably there. The
children were delighted with it, for the chairs
and the tables were all so curiously carved in
wood, and there were many curiosities of dif-
ferent kinds; but as they were looking at them
they heard such an odd sound, near at hand, of
the barking of a dog. Donald and Harry has-
tened out of the summer-house, and Edith with
them, but they could see nothing. Presently
they heard it again, and the gardener pointed
to a path leading to the shore. Off they started,
for they saw by the man's face, and knew by the
sound that it was no common dog making such a
noise. They came near to the water's edge, and
there, in a large pond, they saw some animal
swimming about. At first Donald and Harry
thought it really was a black boy; for there was
a large round hairy head, and two fine large eyes
looking at them, but, as they came nearer, they
saw it was a fish; and yet it began barking away
at them, and, raising itself in the water, its two
fins looking like the fore-feet of a dog.
As Edith watched the surprise of the two boys,
she laughed heartily.
Why, Edith," said Harry, this cannot be the
little pet dog you told us there was in the gar-
dens ? You surely cannot love such a queer animal
"Indeed I can, Harry," replied Edith; you
shall see what fun I have with him. Now,
Doggy, you must beg; here is a biscuit for you."
The fish swam a little way towards her, fixing
his bright and beautiful eyes on the biscuit; and
then raised himself, hanging down his fins, just
as a dog does his fore legs, to beg.
Good fellow," said Edith, and as she threw
the biscuit he caught it in his mouth quite cle-
Just then the rest of the party were in sight,
and as the path was somewhat steep, Harry ran
back to help them. Donald smiled quite scorn-
fully as he saw this polite and kind act; for
though he pretended to despise Harry for it, it
was, in fact, the self-reproach at his own selfish-
ness which made him dislike to see a good action
in another boy.
Harry saw this look in Donald, and he thought
to himself, I shall only leave this queer fish for
a minute or two, and I can puzzle Mary and Hugh
about it. I wonder Donald does not come too !"
So on he ran. O, Mary," he said, I have just
seen Edith Ferguson's pet dog. Hark! don't you
hear him barking ?"
"Is it a dog like mamma's, Harry?" said
Not exactly; but it begs like little Flora, and
perhaps you will like to nurse it. Here it is."
Mary started back with surprise, and Hugh,
who was holding Rose's hand, laughed and said,
O, cousin Harry, how could Mary nurse such a
great big fellow as that ?"
You shall stroke him though," said Edith.
And then the gardener put a common hurdle into
the water to form a ladder, and though of course
the fish-dog had no legs, it managed to riggle
itself up the hurdle, and rolled over at the chil-
dren's feet. It opened its large mouth, and poor
silly Mary felt sure it would bite them; so as
she backed and backed, quite forgetting there was
another pond behind her; her foot came to the
edge, and had it not been that Mr. Ferguson saw
her danger just in time to catch hold of her, she
must have fallen in. As it was, she had a much
worse fright than if she bad remained with the
rest. The children patted the soft sides of the
great fish, and then Mr. Ferguson told them it
was of the seal tribe: it was covered with hair,
but so like a dog that it was called the sea-dog.
It had been caught in the Mediterranean, and as
the gentleman to whom the gardens and villa be-
longed was known to be a great naturalist, the
sailors always brought any rare fish, or shell, or
coral to him, knowing they should find a sale for
The gardener said that at first the sea-dog was
very shy, but it soon began to learn any trick, and
had become quite tame. He then told it to go
back into the water, and down it plunged, and
them came begging for some more biscuit. And
you shall have it, my good doggy," said Edith,
and away went one biscuit after another into his
Now," said Rose, you must all come and
see my favourites," and she led them to another
pond close by, where they were swimming about.
O how beautiful!" said all the party; what
O, these are my pretty butterfly-fish; look at
their fins, they are just the shape of the wings of
the butterfly! and look at the colours-first red,
then blue, orange, and white !"
Yes," said Harry, and their bodies like the
gold fish in our pond at home. 0 how very beau-
tifully they swim about!"
The gardener knelt down at the water's edge,
and asking Rose for a piece of bread, held it
down, and all the fish came gathering round it,
eating it out of his fingers.
Most of the party liked Rose's favourites the
best; but Edith did not care for that, and ran
back, not," as she said, to give her old dog a
bone, though old Mother Hubbard's dog was not
at all more clever than her old favourite, but to
give him a little plum bun, which she had saved
for the last, as he was so fond of them."
Mr. Ferguson now led the way to the museum
of stuffed animals, and shells, birds, and insects,
&c. Now, Harry," he said, "how far .is your
porcupine like this real one, think you ?"
Why, just about as much, sir, as Edith's sea-
dog is like a real dog! so we will call mine the
sea-porcupine, for it certainly had no legs amongst
They all laughed. And here," said Mr. Fer-
guson, is the sea-horse;" and a great ugly
stuffed animal it was, about eight feet long, with
a fish's body, and a head very much like a
The museum interested them all very much,
though the scorpions preserved in spirits, which
were collected in the neighbourhood, looked so
very ugly and venomous, that the children agreed
they had rather see them dead than alive.
Mr. Ferguson said they had missed one sight
which he thought they would regret, and he led
them back again to the ponds of the sea-dog and
butterfly-fish, to a dark passage cut in the rock;
this opened into a large hall, with smaller rooms
round it, all cut in the rock. There were small
lamps of different colours, like those used at an
illumination, hung in festoons in different direc-
tions: one end of the hall opened on the water's
edge. Mr. Ferguson told them that this had
been excavated by the master of the villa as a
bal-room, and that concerts were sometimes held
Mrs. Vernon stood listening to the waves as
one after another broke on the shore, and turn-
ing to Harry, asked him if he could not fancy
their measured sound quite beating time to the
music? And then she proposed they should sit
down and rest themselves, and sing one of their
So she and Mr. Vernon and Harry began In
the days when we went gipsying," and Mr. and
Mrs. Ferguson joined in till all the rocks seemed
to echo the sound, and the waves, too, gave their
quiet solemn music. There was the beautiful
bay before them, that matchless bay! and the
clear blue sky above, forming a lovely contrast to
the yellow brown sand rock where they were all
seated. As soon as the glee was finished another
was proposed, and then another, for all felt very
happy in that lovely spot.
Not far off was a very small bay with its pebble
shore; and this was a great treat to the children,
for they found some shells there, which are rare
things at Naples, for the shore in every direction
is occupied either with fishing boats, gardens, or
The time at last came for the party to leave:
the carriage was waiting, and took them all, ex-
cepting Mr. Vernon and Mr. Ferguson, who pre-
ferred to walk home. They had a long talk toge-
ther about Donald and Harry, and it was then
arranged most kindly by Mr. Ferguson that Harry
should study with Donald under his care.
Both the boys, when they heard it, were very
well pleased, and as the time was only to be from
nine o'clock till one, they felt there would be
plenty of time to see the many sights around.
For a whole fortnight after the happy visit to
the gardens of the Villa Rocca Romana, the most
heavy, ceaseless rain prevented all excursions;
and sometimes as Harry braved it on his way to
Mr. Ferguson's every morning, he felt quite glad
we have not such rain in England: and then to
add to the difficulty of walking in it, all the
houses in Italy have a waterspout at the top, quite
hanging over the path, so that unless you are very
careful, a perfect deluge of water comes pouring
down, which no umbrellas can resist.
At last a fine afternoon came, and Mr. Vernon
proposed a visit to the Museum.
Little Hugh was to have a walk in the gardens
with his nurse, as he was not old enough to go
with the rest; and even Harry and Mary found
there was much to be seen there which did not
interest them. However, when they came to the
rooms containing all the bronze vessels, and other
relics from Pompeii, they were delighted enough.
Mr. Vernon pointed out to them, first of all, a
round table in the centre of the room, containing
jewels and other small things. In one case was a
very old looking purse, with money in it, and laid
by the side were several gold bracelets and rings,
found on the arm and hand of a skeleton in the
cellar of a house at Pompeii, which, from an in-
scription outside, was found to belong to Dio-
medes. It is supposed this was his wife, who
fled into the cellar for protection, and there pe-
rished. The purse was found in her hand.
In another case were rings, necklaces, ear-rings,
brooches, chains, and nets of gold; and also silver
pins for ornamenting the hair, like those now
worn so universally in Italy.
When was Pompeii destroyed, papa?" asked
Seventy-nine years after Christ, my boy; and
is it not wonderful that these gold and silver orna-
ments should have been made in such perfection
then! Look, here is a small looking-glass which
belonged to some Pompeian lady; it is made of
polished metal, you see, instead of glass."
In other cases round the room were different
kinds of food. Two small loaves of bread, made
in the shape of a tea-cake, with the name of the
baker stamped on one; eggs, and a honeycomb,
and a large bronze saucepan full of soup, which
was being boiled on the fire when the destruction
of the city took place. A bottle containing oil,
and another filled with olives; nets for catching
birds and fishes, and a large quantity of paints,
which, with the brushes, were found in a painter's
All the party felt great interest in looking at
one case after another, and then they went into
the next room, filled with kitchen furniture all
made of bronze.
The floor of each of the rooms is paved with
mosaics which were brought from Pompeii; these
are different figures made of small pieces of
coloured pottery or stone, and all fitted together just
as carefully as a puzzle. At a distance they look
like pictures. In this room the weights and scales
were the most admired-the chains being made
in a great variety of beautiful patterns. There
were also kettles, stewpans, and saucepans lined
with silver, a portable stove for heating water,
moulds for jellies; indeed, Mrs. Vernon said,
" she felt sure if her cook were brought there,
she would find all that was necessary to furnish
her kitchen with things for cooking."
In another room were lamps, and candelabra
(or candlesticks) in every variety of pattern, and
all most elegantly and richly ornamented.
Look here, Harry," said Mr. Vernon, these
are the idols or lares of the Pompeians; they
were called their household gods: and here is a
brush just like those now used in Romanist
churches to sprinkle the holy water. You re-
member I told you heathenism and Romanism
were often alike, and here is a proof of it; for
this brush was used by the Pompeian priests to
sprinkle purifying water, as they called it, over dif-
ferent things These vessels, too, were for in-
cense to burn before their gods. You remember
you saw the priests burning incense the other
day in the Romanist church near our house. I
wish you, my boy, to take notice of these things,
and prize our own Protestant religion more than
Mr. Vernon then showed him the helmet and
shield, together with part of the skeleton of a
Roman soldier. They were found in a sentry-
box at Pompeii. True to his duty, it is supposed
that he braved death at his post rather than safety
Near these interesting relics were some iron
stocks found in the prison,-children's toys, and
musical instruments, with flutes made from
Harry and Mary felt quite tired at last with
looking at so many things, and as Mr. Vernon
told them he hoped they would pay many visits
to the museum, and that too after having seen
Pompeii itself, when they would feel double
interest in looking over these treasures, when
they had seen the very houses in which they were
discovered, they quite willingly drove away.
THE following week Mr. Vernon invited Mr.
and Mrs. Ferguson, Donald, Rose, and Edith, to
join them in a pic-nic to the Bay of Baive. So
off they all started in two carriages.
The road is the same as to Puzzuoli, for this
town is in the Bay of Baie ; but soon after pass-
ing this place, they noticed the remains of villas
quite in the sea, and then they came to much
larger ones, and the sea being as clear as glass,
you could trace room after room in the water.
Baime was a very favourite residence of the Roman
emperors and their people.
Mr. Ferguson pointed out some ruins, which
are said to be the palace of Julius Csesar. A
part of it only is in the water, so the children
went scrambling about the old walls. Mr. Ver-
non called them, and told them that, possibly, as
the emperor sat in one of the rooms they were then
visiting, with the blue sea sparkling before him,
he might have planned his invasion of England.
Harry-" But he did not conquer us, did he,
Yes, he conquered our rude forefathers, though
he did not extend his conquests into the heart of
the country, and soon abandoned it. ItwasAgricola,
a most wise and able general who commanded in'
Britain in the reign of Domitian, who first so far
conquered and subdued the Britons as to be able
to influence and civilize them; and when you are
able to read his life by the historian Tacitus,
(who was his son-in-law,) you will feel that we owe
very much to him for having really subjugated
and so wisely ruled them. The Romans ruled in
Britain 500 years."
After gathering some flowers, on they went to
the Baths of Nero. They are in perfect preserva-
tion, and supplied from the very same hot spring
which used to form such luxurious baths for the
emperor, whose monstrous cruelties have made
his name infamous.
The spring-head is at the end of a dark pas-
sage, where it comes bubbling up boiling hot;
so that a man actually took some eggs, and re-
turned in three minutes, having boiled them in
Donald and Harry managed to eat two a piece.
After driving a mile farther, three ruined tem-
ples came in sight, dedicated to Venus, Mercury,
There is a small inn here, with a pretty garden,
where it was determined they should lunch. So
the baskets of provisions were taken out of the
carriage, a very pretty spot chosen in the gar-
den, and a servant left to get all ready, while the
rest drove on to Cape Misenum, where the town
Misenum used to stand, but now only a few ruins
here and there show it to have been once in-
Mr. Vernon reminded the children that it was
in the harbour of Misenum, that Pliny was at
anchor with all his fleet, when that awful eruption
of Vesuvius took place, which destroyed Pompeii
O, please tell us all about it, papa," said Harry.
I will tell you something about it at any rate,"
replied Mr. Vernon. You remember I said that
it was seventy-nine years after Christ, when these
cities were destroyed. Pliny, the Younger, wrote
an account of it to his friend Tacitus, the his-
torian. He tells him, that his father was in this
bay, and all at once, in the middle of the day,
clouds of ashes quite obscured the sun, and made
it as dark as night. The air became so hot and
sulphurous, that it seemed impossible to breathe.
One shock after another of earthquake filled the
people on the land with horror, the sea was most
violently troubled, and receded from the land a
considerable distance. This continued for three
days. Meanwhile Pliny, believing the sea to be
safer than the land, started off in one of his
ships, to a place called Castelamare, near Pom-
peii. Here he landed, hoping to aid some of
the inhabitants who were flying in all direc-
tions; many of them with pillows on their heads
to shield them from the cinders and ashes which
were falling thick and fast. Pliny had one, too,
to protect him, but he was an old man, and suf-
fered much from his breath, a sort of asthma
it is supposed, so that he soon sunk down quite
exhausted from the fumes and smoke of the
volcano, though four or five miles distant from it,
and there he died.
An immense column of smoke burst out from
the summit of Vesuvius, with hot water and
ashes too, which deluged Pompeii; so that in
the course of two days the city was entirely
"Besides this, a large stream of lava poured
out of the crater, and came slowly creeping down
the mountain; for melted lava is much thicker
even than melted glass, and it does not run fast;
these streams of fire came all over the city of
Herculaneum, till not a trace of that large and
splendid place could be seen: nothing but lava,
black and cold; silence and desolation all
But, Mr. Vernon," said Donald, "why did
they build the cities so near Vesuvius ?"
It is supposed, Donald, that no one knew
Vesuvius to be a volcano, or, at any rate, they
thought it was extinct, for the crater was over-
grown with grass, and cattle fed there; but as
Pompeii is paved with lava, they must have ima-
gined that some time or other the mountain had
poured it forth."
Yes," added Mr. Ferguson, but it is strange
even now to see houses built quite on the moun-
tain; I was much struck with this when I as-
cended it; the people seem so accustomed to
danger that they do not heed it."
Now, papa," said Edith, do settle when we
are to go up the mountain. Harry and Donald
both want to go as much as I do, and Rose too."
"Well, my Edith, suppose we ask Mr. and
Mrs. Vernon to let it be your birthday treat ? for
it will be so pleasant if they will join our party.
But then you must promise to be very obedient
and careful-as steady and demure as a girl nine
years old on that day ought to be."
0 yes, dear papa! what a beautiful treat that
will be for my birthday! Do go, Mr. Vernon,
and let Harry go. And shall not you enjoy it
very much too, dear Mary ?"
"I shall be so afraid," replied Mary, "that
some lava will come pouring out on us."
0 no, Mary," replied Mr. Ferguson, "there
never is an eruption without a great many signs
first. One you can easily tell yourself,-no smoke
comes out of the crater for days before, so that
you would not know it to be a burning moun-
"When is your birthday, Edith ?" asked Mrs.
"The 19th of December, Mrs. Vernon; that
is to-morrow week."
The children all vastly enjoyed chatting over
the treat; and as they were talking about it, Mrs.
Vernon reminded Harry she should want a flower
to press from the place. They all began to ga-
ther some, and Harry ran to his mamma with
one such a bright yellow, almost flame-colour.
He laughed and said, That would just do to
remind her of fiery Vesuvius, which they had been
hearing so much about."
As they returned from the Cape Misenum, Mr.
Ferguson pointed out a tomb by the road side,
which is said to be that of Agrippina, the mo-
their of Nero. She was murdered by her own
son, and a few years afterwards he killed himself.
When the party arrived at the little inn they
were glad to find the lunch ready. The cloth was
laid on a piece of marble which once belonged to
some house, and the children were sent to roll
some smaller stones as seats. Harry thought it
would make it more comfortable to get a cushion
of moss for his mamma, and aunt, and Mrs. Fer-
guson; he found a little and some very small
twigs, so he made them quite a pleasant seat. A
merry and a hearty meal they all had of it.
The scene before them was so very beautiful, that
for a long time all sat still to enjoy it. The
round Temple of Mercury was just below them,
and then the pier of Baise, with quite a bustling
group of fishermen on it; the quiet and deep-
blue water of the bay reflected a few passing
clouds; Puzzuoli beyond, and then Vesuvius
smoking and fuming away in the distance.
Mr. Ferguson turned to Mr. Vernon, remark-
ing, "That often since he had been in Italy,
he had remembered what is recorded in the
first chapter of Genesis. After the creation of
the world and all in it, it is written, And God
saw everything that He had made, and, behold,
it was very good.'"
Yes," added Mr. Vernon, "and then, as David
says, All thy works praise Thee.' How well such
works accord with the title of the God of love!'"
Little Hugh was seated on his uncle's knee;
he looked thoughtful for a moment, and then,
turning up his pretty bright face, he said, Un-
cle, it is not kind of God to make burning
mountains, is it ?"
Mr. Vernon smiled, and replied, "Yes, my
little Hugh, it is very kind; for inside this
world of ours there is a great deal of fire, and
heat, and smoke; and then these burning moun-
tains are just like great chimneys. Look at
Vesuvius now, what a large cloud of smoke is
hanging over it. If it were not for that we
should have earthquakes and many sad things.
You see it lets out the fire."
Hugh's face brightened, and he said, Then it
is kind of God to make Vesuvius; but I am very
glad, uncle, we have not such a great chimney in
And so am I," added Mary.
Well, we shall see," said Edith, I do not
believe we shall feel frightened, even when clam-
bering up the sides of this great chimney. We
are to go, are we not, Mrs. Vernon ? "
And then all the children came to her, begging
that such a treat might be given them.
Mrs. Vernon asked her husband, what he
thought of it ?
After a little talk amongst the papas and
mammas, it was settled that if the 19th of De-
cember were fine, they would go and peep down
into the crater.
Mrs. Hugh Vernon and her little boy were to
remain at home, as she was not well enough for
such fatigue, and Hugh not old enough.
In driving home they stopped to see three
small lakes-the first was the Lucrine Lake. Mr.
Ferguson made the children laugh by telling
them that Pliny says, that, in his time, a large
dolphin lived in it, and was made so tame by a
boy, that he would sit upon the fish's back, and
cross the lake in this manner.
How I should like to have had a ride too,"
said Harry; but do you think it is true, Mr.
Well, my boy, I can hardly say, but as Pliny
was a great naturalist, I am quite inclined to be-
lieve it. This lake used to be very famous for
its oysters, too."
The other lake was called Avernus. It is sup-
posed to be the crater of an extinct volcano, and
Virgil, and other ancient writers say, it was called
Avernus, because no bird could fly over it, as they
always died when they came near, but now water-
fowl swim about it.
Harry asked Mr. Ferguson if the grotto were
near this place, in which a dog is put and seems
No, Harry," replied Mr. Ferguson, but it is
not very far off," so they all drove to the Lake
Agnano. This water appears to boil, from the
numbers of bubbles at the surface. The children
put in their hands and it was quite warm. Mary
screamed all at once, for near her were lying four
large snakes. Mr. Vernon went up to them and
found they were dead. The guide explained to
him, that these snakes and other reptiles fall into
the water from the hills around, and the water
being hot and salt they are soon killed by it. The
guide now led them to the famous Grotto del
Cane," as it is called. This means Grotto of
the dog." Pliny mentions this curious place, and
there it is, just the same as he saw it.
It looks nothing more than a small cave, and
near it were some large dogs. One of these
is held by the neck just at the entrance of the
grotto, he first struggles violently, and then seems
to die, but after bringing it into the fresh air it
soon recovers again.
None of the party wished to see the poor dog
operated upon; so the man lighted a torch, and
the instant he put it into the cavern it went out.
A pistol was loaded and held in and he pulled the
trigger, but no sound came, the gas inside pre-
vented its going off.
At the bottom of the grotto a small light vapour
is seen to rise out of the ground, and this causes
Mr. Vernon thought they had all seen enough
for one day, so they drove home.
How I do enjoy being in Italy," said Harry,
" I had no idea there would be so much to see."
"I suppose you are very happy at night," added
Donald; for my part, these horrible mosquitoes
put me in such a passion, that I wish myself any-
where else. I thought at first they were only like
our gnats, but dear me! I would rather have
twenty of them buzzing about me, than one mos-
quito, and they sting me so badly, I declare it
makes me hate Italy."
Harry-" They tease me too sometimes, and at
first I was angry enough with them; but do you
know, Donald, I found that made them worse.
So now before I put out my candle, I lie on my
bed very quietly watching for my enemy. I catch
first one, then another, and then I look carefully
all round my gauze curtains, and after a little pa-
tience I generally kill them, put out my candle,
and go off to sleep so soon, that I do not care if
any more come to attack me, for if I do get a
bite, I try not to touch it, and then it soon goes
Donald--" But I cannot bear to sleep with
gauze curtains all round me, and should never
have patience to catch them as you do."
Harry-," Well, I always think when I dislike
anything, how shall I get rid of it ? or how shall
I bear it? and after all, Donald, we must have
some troubles with so many pleasures; dear
mamma often tells me this."
Donald-" 0 yes! and tells you to look at the
bright side of things! for my part, I cannot help
going into a great passion with these wretched
stinging, buzzing, creatures."
Harry-" Then you will suffer much more than
I do; I don't like pain."
In returning they came a shorter way home,
passing through a very ancient tunnel, called the
Grotto of Posilipo. It is more than two thousand
years old. The air in it is very close and un-
pleasant, a few lamps are lit to guide the traveller,
and about half way through, is a small Romanist
chapel, in which a box is put to receive money, a
priest who is called the hermit of the place, being
generally there to receive it, to attract notice by
rattling coppers in a box as you pass.
A few days after this pleasant excursion to
Baiae, Mr. Ferguson asked Harry to remain the
next day to lunch with them. He also begged
Mr. Vernon to come too, and then with Donald
they all four started to Virgil's Tomb. It is just
outside the top of the grotto of Posilipo, on the
As it is more than half way up the steep hill,
they kept ascending, till all at once the road made
a turn, and then, as they stopped for a moment
the view burst upon them! A cold rainy night
had given all the distant mountains a beautiful
covering of snow, even Vesuvius had a crown of
it; the sun was shining with great brilliancy, but
still there were large white clouds occasionally
hiding its rays, and giving fine lights and sha-
dows to the scenery! But it is a view quite im
possible to describe.
No wonder," said Mr. Ferguson, that Vir-
gil so constantly made this beautiful spot his
study, and selected it for his burial place! The
name of the hill, Posilipo,' means A cessation
of sorrow,' and certainly if earthly beauty can
banish trouble, this must."
It is indeed beautiful," added Mr. Vernon.
They now entered a garden and vineyard, the
vines were festooned from one tree to another, the
leaves wore their bright autumn tints of red and
yellow, a little way beyond there were a number
of tombs. This used to be the English bury-
ing ground. Many of them were broken, and
Mr. Ferguson said, that a very bad spirit amongst
some of the Neapolitans had led them to injure
the tombs of the heretics, as they consider us.
So the king had granted another spot of ground
nearer the city, which was safely and reverently
A little farther on, shaded by trees, and creep-
ing plants, was the tomb of Virgil. The urn
which contained his ashes and the door too are
"How old is this tomb, papa ? said Harry.
"Virgil died nineteen years before the birth of
our Lord, so it is more than eighteen hundred
years old. He was only fifty when he died, but
how much he did in his lifetime! You remember,
he wrote the Georgics at Naples, by the desire of
the Emperor Augustus, to encourage the taste for
agriculture amongst the Romans."
Yes," replied Mr. Ferguson, and how well he
was respected amongst them, so that whenever he
entered the theatre, however crowded, all the au-
dience rose up to him as to an emperor. I think,
boys, you will feel a double interest in learning
your Eneid now that you have seen Virgil's
0 yes, we shall," added Harry; I should
like, Donald, to bring our lessons here to learn
82 HARRY BRIGHTSIDE.
Very well," he replied, we can try it for
They then scrambled up the hill, hoping to en-
joy a pleasant walk and fine view along the top of
it; but to their surprise and disappointment, the
road they entered had a high wall on each side
of it. On they went hoping it would soon end;
but they found it did not for more than a mile.
A steep rough road then led them down into the
bustling, dirty streets of Naples.
THE 19th of December came at last; and,
strange to say, four different children in Naples
jumped out of bed before sunrise, to see if the
day were fine!
Edith was queen of the day, and as she dressed,
a gentle tap came at the door. She opened it,
but nothing was to be seen excepting a basket of
beautiful flowers. They covered, as she soon
found, several parcels done up in white paper;
first came a beautiful Prayer-book from her papa
and mamma, with a gold clasp, then a box full of
beads, arranged in different colours, with needles,
and silk, &c., from Rose.
Donald, too, had sent his gift, the figure of a
sailor asleep in his fishing-basket, all cut out of
the different coloured lava of Vesuvius. Mrs.
Vernon had given her a doll, with clothes made by
herself, all excepting the cap, which was Mary's
present; and Harry had bought her a box very
prettily inlaid with different sorts of wood. This,
he told her afterwards, he thought would do to
hold her shells, and anything else they might
bring from Vesuvius. Little Hugh, too, was as
anxious as any one to remember Edith's birthday,
so he had spent all his money in buying her a
fine piece of white coral.
Edith was delighted with her basket full of
flowers and presents; but before she had looked
at them half long enough, the breakfast bell rang.
Many kind wishes were waiting for her in the
breakfast-room, and many true, hearty thanks
were returned by Edith.
Now children," said Mr. Ferguson, remem-
ber, one rule I lay down to-day, which is not to
be broken, you must not think and then act for
yourselves, but in everything obey me or Mr. Ver-
non and the guides."
You must quite understand this, because the
ascent of a mountain like Vesuvius, more than
two thousand, nearly three thousand feet high, is
They all promised faithful obedience, and with
very thick shoes, and thick sticks for the gentle-
men of the party, off they all started. They met
the Vernons at the railway station; the horn was
blown, for the guard uses one at starting instead
of a bell, or whistle as with us, and twenty
minutes brought them to the small town of Re-
Here they all left the train, and went to a
house in which the principal guide lives. He
had received orders, so eight horses and ponies
were in readiness, some guides, and a few ragged
boys who went for their own pleasure.
Mary was not of the party, she had a cold;
besides which, being such a coward, Mr. Vernon
felt it quite the best plan to leave her at home.
Edith was amused to find her pony named
Macaroni;" he was rather a frisky little fellow,
but she rode well, and soon understood how to
manage him. The party trotted on pretty com-
fortably at first, but then large stones in the road
made it necessary to walk the horses. Edith was
very fond of taking the lead, so when a smooth
piece of road came, she pressed on, passing all
Mind, you Queen Edith," said her papa, it
needs steady and slow riding here."
Oh yes, papa, but I so like being first."
Harry felt the same, and asked Mr. Ferguson
if he might pass to ride by the side of Edith.
So there the two went, leading the procession, the
guides of course keeping close to them.
There were vineyards part of the way, growing
on the lava, a little earth giving them sufficient
nourishment, but soon they ceased; and miles of
black, desolate lava, raised in heaps like waves of
the sea, were seen, and not a sound was to be
heard but the tramp of the horses' feet.
After an hour's ride they reached the Her-
mitage, as it is called, a small inn; here the
baskets of provisions were left, and again they
The horses had sometimes to take a long step
from stone to stone, and a hard matter some of
the party found it to keep their seats.
Edith's merry laugh was heard above all the
rest, as she looked back and saw one horse after
another slowly straining up the ascent after her.
At last all had to dismount and clamber up the
cone of the mountain as best they could. The
ladies had straps put round their waists, and were
pulled up by the guides.
As for the children, they clambered up like
goats, but soon turned into very black goats, from
the ashes and rubbish which they had to climb
over. They got on quicker than the rest, but
were called to a halt by Mr. Ferguson. For more
than an hour were they toiling and climbing up
the cone. Every now and then the ground
trembled under them, and a rumbling noise came
like thunder. Edith and Harry gained the top