Title: Crochet Reef Patterns
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Permanent Link: http://ufdc.ufl.edu/UF00103272/00001
 Material Information
Title: Crochet Reef Patterns
Physical Description: Archival
Language: English
Creator: UF Marston Science Library Crochet Reef Team ; including Denise Bennett, Chelsea Dinsmore, and Sara Gonzalez
Publisher: UF Libraries
Place of Publication: Gainesville, FL
Publication Date: 2010
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Bibliographic ID: UF00103272
Volume ID: VID00001
Source Institution: University of Florida
Holding Location: University of Florida
Rights Management: All rights reserved by the source institution and holding location.

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Crochet Reef Patterns




Hyperbolic plane *

Foundation row: Ch 21, turn.

Rows 1-15 (or more): Work (3 sc in each of
next 3 stitches, increase in next stitch)
across. Ch 1, turn.

For great effect, work one final row in
contrast yarn. Fasten off.

We call this "n=4" because you're ,,. '
increasing in every 4th stitch. You can make
a larger piece by starting with ch 31 and increasing every 6th stitch. If you prefer dc, increase in every
2nd or 3rd stitch.




Sea anemones / pillars

To make pillars, start at the bottom with a pancake:
Round 1: Ch 4, join with slip stitch to 1st chain to form a ring.
Work 4 sc into ring.
Round 2: Work 2 sc in each sc (total 8 sc).
Round 3: Work 2 sc in each sc (total 16 sc).
Round 4: Work 1 sc in next sc, work 2 sc in next sc; continue ,
from around (total 24 sc).
To form sides, work even: 1 sc in each sc (total 24 sc) and
continue until you reach the desired length.
Stop and stuff the pillar (with fiberfill/pillow stuffing or a
plastic object) and then begin to decrease.
Decrease round 1: *Work 1 sc in each of 2 sc, work next 2 sc
together; continue from around (total 18 sc).
Decrease round 2: *Work 1 sc in next sc, work next 2 sc together; continue from around (total 12 sc).
Decrease round 3: *Work 2 sc together; continue from around (total 6 sc). Slip stitch in 3rd stitch from
hook. Cut yarn, draw through remaining loop, and tuck away.

Variations: change the diameter or height of your pillar.










To make a larger starting pancake, keep adding the same number of stitches in each round, such as
[Round 5: Work 1 sc in each of next 2 sc, work 2 sc in next sc;
Round 6: Work 1 sc in each of next 3 sc, work 2 sc in next sc; etc.]

To change the shape, try increasing or decreasing a few stitches in relevant rows. Lots of trial and error
here!




Fun with yarn ...

Have fun with your yarn! Use up your scraps!

Left: create stripes with different colored yarns. !




Bottom: use a variegated (or other fancy) yarn in the
last row.




The last row of this large coral was crocheted with 5
different balls!





For a lacy openwork look, work (1 dc, ch 2) in place of
each sc. Ignore the chains in the previous row; keep
working dc over dc. Make sure the last row has (dc, l
ch 2, dc, ch2) in each stitch for extra fullness. ,










Pseudosphere


Photos above are of the same sphere. At top, it is laid flat and looks like restaurant garnish. At bottom,
the center is poked down and the outer row rises to look like brain coral.

Foundation: ch 4, sl st in 1st ch to form a ring.

Round 1: ch 1, 6 sc in the ring (or whatever works with your yarn); ch 1.

Rounds 2-15 (or more): Work (3 sc in each of next 3 stitches, increase in next stitch) around. Work at
least 18 rounds. At least 15-20 rounds are needed for full convolution. Fasten off.

This basic pattern creates a pseudosphere for n=4 (inc in each 4th st.) Vary your n as desired. Increasing
every 2nd stitch makes a compact ball quickly.

Add a picot trim (ch 3 between each sc) in the last row or 2 to create more ruffle.










Coil / Corkscrew / Curlicue /
Fingerling

Row 1: Crochet a chain that is twice as .
long (maybe a little extra) as you want
the finished coil.

Row 2: SI st in 2nd chain from hook.
Work 3 sc in each chain across. At the
end, sl st into the chain of the previous
coil. Fasten off.

Variations:

Work another row, maybe in another color, of 2 sc in each stitch across.

Work in dcfor a longer, wider, looser look.

Vary your stitches around the coil (sc to hdc to dc to tr and down again) to alter the widths.

Make a round base (2-3 rounds) and work one coil out of each sc in base. At the end of each coil, sl st
into the next base sc to begin another coil. On a large base (think jellyfish), sc into several base stiches
between coils/legs.

For tendrils, work 2 sc in 1st several stitches. When you have enough of a coil started, continue with 1 sc
in each ch. To keep them straighter at the stem, chain out in one hook size larger than the one you use
to crochet back.






Non-hyperbolic shapes

Create your own marine life shapes that are
not necessarily hyperbolic, such as branches, .*
pillars, and sea fans. The orange piece looks
like a clam shell with tentacles. They all work!













Variations

Work as many rows or starting chains as you like; the bigger, the better!

Use different colors for each row, or just for the last row.

Work with 2 different yarns held together great use of fuzzy, eyelash, thin, slinky, or other novelty
yarn.

Decrease your n (inc more frequently) in the last 2-3 rows to create a slight ruffle.

Add a picot trim (ch 3 between each sc) in the last row or 2 to create more ruffle.







Techniques

Crochet over a pipe cleaner (or other wire) to force your tentacles into a stiff or straight position.

Use starch or Elmer's glue to stiffen items such as lace fans or sprays.

Stuff cylindrical objects with craft stuffing, cotton balls, bubble wrap, etc.




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