Title: Wave transformation in the surf zone
Full Citation
Permanent Link: http://ufdc.ufl.edu/UF00099075/00001
 Material Information
Title: Wave transformation in the surf zone
Physical Description: xv, 169 leaves : ill. ; 28 cm.
Language: English
Creator: Dally, William R. ( Dissertant )
Dean, Robert G. ( Thesis advisor )
Hannack, Joseph L. ( Reviewer )
Malvern, Lawrence E. ( Reviewer )
Ochi, Michel K. ( Reviewer )
Vince, Andrew J. ( Reviewer )
Shafer, D. J. ( Degree grantor )
Publisher: University of Florida
Place of Publication: Gainesville, Fla.
Publication Date: 1987
Copyright Date: 1987
Subjects / Keywords: Wave-motion, Theory of   ( lcsh )
Engineering Sciences thesis Ph. D
Water waves -- Mathematical models   ( lcsh )
Dissertations, Academic -- Engineering Sciences -- UF
Genre: bibliography   ( marcgt )
non-fiction   ( marcgt )
Abstract: The transformation of wave height during the processes of shoaling, breaking and reformation as waves cross the nearshore region is investigated. Previous work by the author on regular breaking waves is extended to a random wave field, and two closed form solutions for the probability density function (pdf) of breaking and non-breaking wave height for a planar beach are derived. These solutions are unique In that the shape of the pdf is not assumed a priori, but is determined using an exact transformation of random variable from the initial (offshore) pdf. For more complex bottom profiles such as those containing multiple bar/trough systems, the initial pdf is discretized into a histogram and each representative wave is transformed numerically across the surf zone. The behavior of statistically representative waves can then be monitored and histograms of height are generated. The random wave model is verified to field data and good agreement is obtained for both statistically representative waves and histograms, without additional calibration. The effect of a collinear current on the breaking process of regular waves is then investigated theoretically and experimentally. A governing equation is proposed and verified to the laboratory data with good results, except for the combination of a short-period wave and a strong opposing current. The effects of long waves such as surf beat (which can be depicted as a slowly varying current and mean water level) on the transformation of random wind-waves is investigated by incorporating the results of the regular wave/current study. If no correlation between the wind-wave group and the surf beat is assumed, only a slight (~ 4%) increase in decay of the root mean square wave height, Hrmg , is observed. However, if the relative phase of the group and beat is such that high waves enter the surf zone when the beat opposes, a marked (~ 15%) increase in decay in H is found.Attempts to verify the surf beat model to the field data of the Nearshore Sediment Transport Study were unsuccessful, believed due to severe low-pass-filtering of the original raw data.
Statement of Responsibility: by William Renneker Dally.
Thesis: Thesis (Ph. D.)--University of Florida, 1987.
Bibliography: Bibliography: leaves 164-167.
General Note: Typescript.
General Note: Vita.
 Record Information
Bibliographic ID: UF00099075
Volume ID: VID00001
Source Institution: University of Florida
Holding Location: University of Florida
Rights Management: All rights reserved by the source institution and holding location.
Resource Identifier: alephbibnum - 001025257
oclc - 18007570
notis - AFA7193


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