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MARTIN ST. THOMAS TORTOLA TRINIDAD
Cover photo by Chris Doyle: Deshaies, in tiorthern Guadeloupe, is a poptdar anchorage for passage staging arid furt ashore
Compass :Overs ine (4r.DD63ni From C.uD3 10 Tr.n.030 Irom
I an3m310 turDu03 ve gOI Ine news, ano so..-as inal 5.3*IOr;
*:an u?* W.- re in.- C 3r.DDean 2 moniniu 1001< 31 Fea sno more
...... TI e Bahames
MSX CO Compass gels our message to Ihe sailors by
.. keeping the publicallon Interesling and current
with lots oI musi-read articles.
Thank you, Compass'
,. Lanaa Prestraps
m ******* Dople Saumasters BVI Lia
mome ... am" r
...... HalU / Dominican
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Click Google Map link below to find the Calibbean Compass near you!
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Info & Updates......................4
Caribbean Eco-News........... 9
AII Ashore... ..........................24
Fun Pages.........................30, 31
Book Review .........................32
Dolly's Deep Secrets............32
The Caribbean Sky...............33
Cooking with Cruisers..........34
Readers' Forum..................... 35
What's on My Mind...............41
Calendar of Events...............42
vi 6.,= re .:. ....... c.,
a .i. .:. ...1 1 4. avis
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C M S
The Caribbean's Monthly Look at Sea & Shore
issw 1on- 99
the Harbour Group of Companies, noticeable changes have been made. Bridge
tender staff are more professional, courteous and accessible; and the appointment
of Eddy Johnson as the Maritime Department Head for Simpson Bay and the
Lagoon as well as Great Bay has made a dramatic difference. Most recently, post-
Hurricane Earl, safety and compensation issues were addressed immediately.
Wrecks and abandoned yachts have been removed and noticeable improvements
have been made to the channel-marking system in the Lagoon and in the ports
and waterways of St. Maarten.
The SMMTA Board supports a continuation of this successful dialogue with The
Harbour Group of Companies about the growth and health of St. Maarten's marine
sector and ways that both organizations can work together to rebuild it.
For more information contact infodsmmta.com or visit www smmta.com.
Summer Sailing Camps' Success
The Grenada National Sailing Academy and the Grenada Yacht Club enjoyed a
successful Summer Camp from 26th July to 6th August. The children enjoyed activi-
ties including learning the essential knots for boat rigging, sailing to Grand Anse
Beach, having a fun day on the Pirate Ship, capsizing their boats and putting
away me coats at me ena or eacn aay. Five girls from me tselair Home aTrenaea
the camp and, despite never having been in a dinghy before, became very knowl-
edgeable and enjoyed all the activities immensely. At the Graduation Party on
August 6th children were given certificates and prizes, which included T-shirts from
Budget Marine and water bottles from Lime.
Meanwhile, the Sint Maarten Yacht Club had six weeks of Summer Camps with
more than 30 kids participating. This year the camps were split into advanced and
beginners' camps to attract more nonmember sailors. During the beginners' camps
basic Optimist sailing was taught, and in the advanced camps the children got the
opportunity to sail Lasers and renew their sailing rules knowledge.
-Continued on next page
Tel: (246) 423 4600
^.usu. a sarena. ce remote curacao comina.
Star Marine Rosales Marina Kapiteinsweg #4 Dominica Marine Center
Jolly Harbour Caringena Netherland Antilles Roseau
Puerto Rico St Cmix, USEr Grenada
Atlantic Sails and Canvas Wilsons' Cruzan Canvas Turbulence Ltd.
Fajardo Christiansted Spice Island Boat Works
so. LucIs St. VIncent Trinldad & Tobago
The Sail Loft, St. Lucia Barefoot Yacht Charters Soca Sails, Ltd.
Rodney Bay Blue Lagoon Chaguaramas
fl H O
St. Maarten Yacht Fees to Be Reduced
The St. Maarten Marines Trades Association (SMMTA) is pleased to announce that
soon there will be a change to the Bridge and Mooring Fee structure for vessels in
the eight- to 18-metre (26- to 59-foot) category. Effective January 1st, 2011, the fees
for these vessels will be changed as follows:
There will be a 30-percent reduction in bridge fee rates; and
There will be two free weeks Harbour Fees given out of every eight consecutive
weeks spent in St. Maarten (i.e. pay for six weeks and stay for eight).
Bridge Fees are currently USS10 for boats from nine to 12 metres in length, and
USS30 for boats for boats from 12 to 15 metres in length. Harbour Fees are US$20 per
week for vessels eight to 13 metres in length, and US$40 per week for vessels 13 to 18
metres in length.
Representatives of the SMMTA have been concerned for some time now about
the high fees implemented by the Simpson Bay Lagoon Authority Corporation
(SLAC) on January 1st, 2008, prior to St. Maarten Harbour Group assuming its man-
agement. The SMMTA s concern was the rapid and almost devastating decline in
arrivals and stays for yachts in the eight- to 18-metre class. The SMMTA membership
at large had reported major declines in business activities relating to this category of
yacht. Mark Mingo, Chief Executive Officer of The St. Maarten Harbour Group of
Companies, stated in December of last year, when SLAC was moved to St. Maarten
Harbour Group of Companies, that yacht fees and the financial management of
SLAC and its assets were top priorities and would be addressed within the year.
Through research and analysis provided by MMC Consulting Services and in con-
junction with the Harbour Group of Companies management and administration
group, they were able to verify that this category of vessel was, in fact, the most
adversely affected by the sudden increase in fees and has experienced a drop of
more than 50 percent in arrivals since 2008. It was for this reason that the SMMTA
Board along with The St. Maarten Harbour Group of Companies felt it was so impor-
tant to tackle the fees for this group first.
The SMMTA would like to take this opportunity to thank Mark Mingo and his manage-
ment team, along with Jeff Boyd, Managing Director of MMC Consulting Services.
Their cooperation and understanding throughout these past months of discussions has
culminated in a final and successful meeting, which took place on September 15th.
SMMTA would also like to note that in the months that SLAC has been in the fold of
British Virgin Islands
Road Reef Marina
Tel: (284) 494 2569
-Continued from previous page
Yacht security Upgrades in Trinidad
Individual businesses, the Yacht Services Association of Trinidad & Tobago (YSATT),
marinas and boatyards are working together to ensure that the Chaguaramas
experience is a pleasant one for all visitors.
The Chaguaramas business group has formed a "neighbourhood watch" in the
form of patrols on the water in Chaguaramas Bay. Each night, members team up
and patrol the Bay to ensure the safety of the visitors and act as a deterrent to any
possible thefts. The boat for the patrols has been generously donated by a YSATT
member, Dynamite Marine Ltd.
YSATT collects details on incidents that happen in Chaguaramas Bay, whether in a
marina or otherwise. While the marinas and their security handle the incidents that
occur on their premises, they will inform YSATT should a major incident occur. All inci-
dents that are reported to YSATT are sent on to the relevant authorities, i.e. Coast
Guard, Maritime Services Division or Police, and circulated to the marinas and boat-
yards should the need arise.
The Trinidad & Tobago Coast Guard are encouraging all cruisers to continue to file
their float plans, whether arriving or departing Trinidad. Once a float plan is received
the TTCG will note the estimated time of departure and they will launch a patrol
from the Staubles Bay Base in Chaguaramas or the Coast Guard base in Tobago,
and will contact the yacht that has filed the float plan via VHF Channel 16. Please
answer them they can see you but you cannot always see them. Once you have
reached your destination, please cancel the float plan by contacting the Coast
Guard and letting them know that you have arrived safely. (The Coast Guard has
called YSATT on many occasions looking for yachts that did not cancel their plans.)
Paraquita Plan Placates Hurricane Earl
On August 30th, Hurricane Season 2010 came alive for the Caribbean when the
newly formed Hurricane Earl brushed the northern Leeward Islands and strengthened
into a category 4 storm. Earl caused damage such as beached vessels, power out-
ages, flooding in low-lying areas, eroded coastlines, toppled trees and roofless homes
on islands including St. Maarten, Anguilla and Antigua. The ports of the US Virgin
Islands and the Puerto Rican ports of Vieques, Culebra, Fajardo and San Juan were
closed, the US Coast Guard said.
The storm's center passed just north of the British Virgin Islands, home to hundreds
of yachts, including large fleets of bareboats a potential fiasco. However, yacht
charter broker Ed Hamilton reports: "Few people know what goes into safeguarding
all those bareboats when a storm threatens. In Tortola s Paraquita Bay, the compa-
nies have permanent storm moorings bow and stern, so more boats can be accom-
modated and damage between boats (always the biggest problem) is minimized.
once they move out after a storm, Paraquita is filled with empty rows of white moor-
Netherlands Antilles No More
Devi Sharp reports: On October 10th 2010 (10/10/10) the "Netherlands Antilles" will
no longer exist. Bonaire, Sint Eustatius and Saba (the BES Islands) will become munici-
, polities of the Netherlands with special status within the Dutch
2 Ungdom. Curacao and Sint Maarten become independent
states within the Dutch Ungdom with the same status that
Aruba attained in 1986.
a The municipalities will resemble ordinary Dutch municipalities
in most ways. They will have similar government structure and
will be able to vote in Dutch national and European elections.
Officials working for BES government offices will work for the
Dutch government. Curacao and Sint Maarten will follow
Aruba s lead as an autonomous country within the Kingdom
of the Netherlands, with its own constitution.
a What does this mean to cruisers? The biggest change for
most of us is that we will have to retire our well-worn
Netherlands Antilles courtesy flags and adopt the flag of
each island. The flags of Bonaire, Saba and Sint Eustatius
("Statia' will become Dutch municipality flags and should be
flown as the courtesy flag for the island.
While in Bonaire in July and August, I heard rumors that on
October 10th our visitation clocks would be reset and we
could stay past our initial 90 days. I also heard that the new
government would be more lenient and allow cruisers to stay
for more than 90 days. However, the Immigration agent said
that we should not expect any change in days permitted in
the BES islands. The time of 90 days is based on the time visitors
are permitted to stay in the Netherlands. This includes citizens
of most countries, except of course, citizens of the
Netherlands. There was also no indication that the current per-
mitted time of 90 days per calendar year is subject to change.
On January 1st, 2011 the US dollar will become the legal ten-
der on the islands of Bonaire, St. Eustatius and Saba, although
guilders will continue to be accepted for cash payments until
February 1st. The guilder will continue to be legal tender on
Curacao and Sint Maarten.
Continued on next page
Safe haven: bareboats in Tortola's Pamquita Bay the morning afrer Eart passed through
continue from previous page
Cruisers John DeLong and Stephen Aspey are starting a new website for cruisers in
Chaguaramas, Trinidad. This is the "son" of the Facebook site that started up earlier this
year but which will close in the coming months. John says, "We felt that the social net-
working emphasis of Facebook was not in keeping with the real interest of cruisers in
getting as much info as possible. The Yahoo Group format allows for more features
that we think will be of interest. Our aim is to provide a forum for discussion and sharing
information of interest between cruising sailors, local businesses and other interested
parties in Chaguaramas. Some of the interesting features of the site include a Q&A
where people can pose questions to fellow cruisers. There sa file library of useful infor-
mation, a picture feature, a calendar of local events, a phone book, links of interest to
cruisers and a treasures of the bilge section. All these features and the discussion forum
are open to anyone who joins a Yahoo membership (free) is all that s required. This
is a website run by and for cruisers and we hope it helps disseminate good information
among all who might be here, or interested in coming here, or who have been here
and have questions and helpful advice and information to share." Sign up at
* The Moniserrat Tourist Board s revamped destination website www.visitmoniserrat.com
is now live. The homepage allows users to view the latest weather, link to the local radio
station, read the latest news, view upcoming events, and at a click of a button, translate
the entire site into French, German or Spanish.
* Need quality photos of beautiful Dominica, The Nature Isle?
Visit www.imagesdominica.com and www.facebook.com/ImagesDominica. They ve
got great underwater shots, tool
* The new e-mail address of Hemingway International Yacht Club of Cuba is
* The free cruising guide to Haiti is now available at www.hailicruisingguide.com.
Essential Caribbean Cruising Reference Books
There are three recently published books you II want to have if you re cruising the
The second edition of Leeward Anchorages is a collection of large (10" by 8") aerial
photos of 43 popular yacht anchorages from Anguilla through Dominica. It is a com-
panion guide to Chris Doyle s Cruising Guide to the Leeward Islands, but could be
used along with any guides. In horizontal format, each spread is dedicated to an
anchorage, the bottom page shows a full-size aerial photo, and the top page con- I
tains a relevant chartlet, brief navigation notes, and a reduced version of the aerial
shot with overprinting highlighting anchoring and mooring areas, reefs and shoals, any
aids or hazards to navigation, clear channels, etcetera. The books are spiral bound to
lay flat. Seeing these bird s-eye-view photos makes the marks on a chart come alive.
The first edition of Windward Anchorages gives the same treatment to 47 anchor-
ages in the Windward Islands, from Martinique through Grenada. Retailing at
USS29.95 each (if you buy both books, that averages out to 67 cents per anchor-
e eme tbootoheh1 e i chandler nsd srpf sable Trinidad &
Tobago Boaters Directory. This is a free 176-page soft-cover book containing every-
thing visiting cruising sailors need to know about the boat service, repair and stor-
age facilities in Trinidad and a whole lot more.
-Continued on page 23
Now 23% smaller.
Visit www.CaribbeanNorthernLights.com for details
YOUr bottom is our concern
.Yacht storage maintenance and repair
phone+ (599) 468936 email. email@example.com vst w~uaamrn~o
IWW Grenada, Working with the Community
During the course of any cruising season extra items have probably been pur-
chased, be they kitchen or household utensils, non-perishable foods, clothing, bed-
ding, etcetera. When the time comes to leave the boat, some of these are no lon-
ger required. What is to be done with them? Island Water World, Grenada has the
answer. In Grenada the charity organization Grensave collects the type of items
mentioned above and distributes them to those in need. At the St. George s Island
On Curacao there was a need
for an inexpensive Chandlery
without compromising quality and service.
That is how ABC MARINE was born.
A LL Y OU NEED FOR BOAT I NG & FI SHING
CaraCaSbaaiweg 158 Curagao Neth. Antilles
Ph (+5999) 461 4476 Fax (+5999) 461 4925
O-en Mondan Frida" 08.30 17.30
saturday 09.00 13.00
Visit book swap day upstairs at Island Water World, Grenada!
Water World store, there is a 45-gallon barrel just inside the entrance. Cruisers can
leave Items no longer required in this barrel, and when it is full, Island Water World
delivers the contents to Grensave. At the IWW branch at Grenada Marine, just drop
items at the store and IWW s daily van service will bring them to St. George s.
Island Water World also helps The Grenada Heart Foundation. On the first
Wednesday of every month Island Water World Grenada holds a book-swap on
their balcony in St. George s, between the hours of 10 and noon. An ECS4 fee
includes access to the book swap plus coffee or tea (donated by Foodland super-
market) and biscuits. Also Le Phare Bleu Marina contributes their excellent bread to
be sold at the book swap. All the proceeds from this popular monthly event go to
The Grenada Heart Foundation.
While working with the above charities, Island Water World, Grenada was intro-
duced to the JJ Robinson Trust. Each year the Trust runs a summer camp for more
than 50 students over a four-day period in August. The trust asked IWW to give a talk
on the yachting and marine industry in Grenada. Besides explaining the industry
and the jobs available in it, a demonstration was given by one of the firm s employ-
ees of some of the items that Island Water World Grenada sells.
Island Water World, Grenada continually looks for ways to work with the cruising
and island community for the benefit of all.
For more information on Island Water World see ad on page 48
The ABC Marine of Curagao Challenge
ABC Marine of Curagao has all you need for boating and fishing at very afford-
able prices. They say, "We invite you to compare our prices with those of the com-
petition. Then you decide!"
For more information on ABC Marine see ad on this page.
Pampering for Boat-Weary Bodies in St. Lucia!
For the months of October and November, L Essence in Rodney Bay Marina is
offering a 20-percent discount on Hot-Stone Massages.
And for December, during the ARC arrivals, their specials continue with the
famous Karen's Yacht & Crew Massage do four massages, and get the fifth
FREE for any crew.
For more information on L Essence see ad in the Market Place section, pages 43
New Website for A&C Brokers of Martinique
A&C Yacht Brokers of Martinique, which welcomed past and prospective clients at
both the Cannes and Grand Pavois International boat shows in September,
announce the opening of their new website at www.bateaux-antilles.fr. On this site
you can find details of all A&C s new and pre-owned boats, updated in real time.
An English version of the website, dedicated to their worldwide customer base, is
available at www.bateaux-antilles.fr or at www.boats-caribbean.com.
For more information on A&C Yacht Brokers see ad in the Market Place section,
pages 43 through 45.
2011 Nautical Almanac Available
Now available from Paradise Cay Publications, the NaulicalAlmanac is the corner-
stone for all celestial navigation, listing the celestial bodies used for navigation, a
sight reduction table, and other information valuable to the offshore navigator.
Paradise Cay Publications is the only entity in the United States other than the US
Government legally authorized to publish the full contents of the NaulicalAlmanac.
The content of this edition is identical to the United States Naval Observatory edition.
For more information visit www paracay com.
New Laundry Service for Yachts in Grenada
PJ s Laundry Service is a new company based in the Lagoon area of St. George s, just
minutes from Port Louis Marina. They understand the needs of all aspects of the yacht-
ing community and are committed to providing a quality service. Whether it s the fast
turnaround for the charter boat market or the regular collection and delivery for the
liveaboard cruiser at anchor in any of the southern bays, PJ s is the laundry to call.
They are currently providing an on-demand service for boats in Port Louis Marina
and around the Lagoon area, as well as regular collections and deliveries to Prickly
Bay and Mount Hartman Bay. In the future there will a boat delivery service added
for yachts outside the Lagoon and other areas will also be covered.
continue on next page
SG RE NIAD AMA RI NE
HIGH PERFORMAANCE ANTIFOUU~NOS FOR
JdIUR .uELBMW~t 195 BM In sD 301Mihng Ofly
of efficiency and evc Ife
INIERMEDIATE-, SPECTIl.F AND TOPCO~l5.
Technseae Infomrmall and D~eler Inquiies
ECHO-MARINE QUALITY COATINGB.
Tel.r+1 868 6i34 4144 or 1072 I
mail 50lun~eCh0-manrbe COm
JOTUIN is also availbMe at all Tnnedlfan
shipyards as well as all branches of
ISLAND WATER WORLD **
BEUAVNUEI h RNDNB
-Continued from previous page
They are offering extremely competitive introductory rates with free delivery
""!,--"'?2" motion see ad in Market Place section, pages 43 through 45.
Jamaica's Port Antonio Marina Reopens
After numerous years of inactivity, "Di Ole Marina" or, more correctly, the Port
Antonio Marina, is open for business following a massive refurbishment. The facility
was recently leased to the Sir Henry Morgan Angling Association, which runs the
annual International Marlin Tournament at Port Antonio. Both the new English Pub
and the Seafood Restaurant will be open to the general public as well as to mem-
bers of the Angling Association. The marina will also play host to the 47th Port
Antonio International Marlin Tournament October 9th to 16th.
For more information visit www.diolemarina.com.
New Fast Ferry for the Grenadines
St. Vincent & the Grenadines now has a new high-speed inter-island ferry service.
One hundred and five feet long with a maximum capacity of 218 passengers,
Jaden Sun offers passenger service between mainland St. Vincent and the islands of
Bequia, Canouan and Union Island.
For more information and the latest schedule visit http://jadeninc.com/ferry/about
St. Maarten's Haul-Out capacity to Increase
The St. Maarten Marine Trades are poised for a significant increase in the service-
level capacity that they can provide to yachts this coming season. With St. Maarten
Shipyard s anticipated arrival of a new 75-ton KMI Sea-Lift, the Shipyard will be able
to haul vessels up to 85 feet in length and ma mum beam of 45 feet. Coupled with
the Cole Bay branch of Bobby s Marina Bobby s Megayard in early stages of
operation, the haul-out capacity on St. Maarten for catamarans and large motor
yachts is reaching new heights. The new Megayard facility will augment Bobby s
existing 90-ton and 75-ton travel-lifts with a new 150-ton travel-lift. The new lift can
handle vessels of 120-foot length with a maximum 35-foot beam.
Until last year, vessels of this size had to sail to Puerto Rico or Trinidad to haul out in
the Caribbean. In late 2009, St. Kitts acquired a 150-ton travel-lift and has been
experiencing growth in the marine sector because of it.
St. Maarten s continued investment in the marine sector, despite the economic
downturn and the decline in market share due to the increase in Dutch-side entry
fees in 2008 for the yachting tourist, provides a ray of hope that the coming season
will be stronger than the recent past.
For more information contact InfodSMMIA.com.
Chill at St. Lucia's 'De Kornah' Bar & Restaurant
Named for its location in Gros Islet town, St. Lucia, De Kornah Bar & Restaurant is
a great place to chill out! In the heart of all the action, especially on Fridays in Gros
Islet, De Kornah serves up a great lunch and dinner menu six days a week with per-
fectly mixed drinks and the prices are just right. The colorful bar, with balcony seat-
ing, is quickly becoming a town attraction. So next time you re in town, stop by and
have a seat at De Kornah!
For more information see ad in Market Place section, pages 43 through 45.
Better Win for Boats
The Wirie was invented in the Caribbean in April 2009 to provide a cost-effective,
user-friendly, long range WiFi solution for boats. Since the beginning, Island
Consulting has continuously made improvements to The Wirie.
The most recent development involves a high-end marine grade WiFi antenna.
L-com, a leading antenna manufacturer in the wireless connectivity business for
over 27 years, agreed to produce a marine grade antenna exclusively for The Wirie.
Designed to stringent specifications, the new Wirie antenna is an 8dBi omni-direc-
tional high performance marine antenna that features sealed collinear brass ele-
ments inside a durable UV-stable white fiberglass radome. The sealed end cap
ensures no water entry and drain holes in the base help prevent moisture build-up
inside the antenna.
"We believe our partnership with L-com has allowed us to turn The Wirie into the
M t fema a s on nge WiFi solution available for boats and RVs," states
The Wirie continues to offer many unique features: flexible stainless steel mounting
bracket, easy to install and use software, comprehensive user manual, powerful
1000mW WiFi adapter, IP67 waterproof box, and superior customer support. The
"MA easyn upa e s techno continues to advance.
Horizon Charters Offers SUPs in BVI
Horizon Yacht Charters has announced that charter guests can now rent stand up
paddleboards (or SUPs) for the duration of their Horizon Active package at the
British Virgin Island base
The SUPs are high-volume Bic longboards that you stand up on, maneuvering with
a single long paddle. They are stable enough for beginners to instantly "get it", but
maneuverable enough to satisfy the Laird Hamiltons of this world. An ideal way to
explore deserted coves tucked away around the islands, and work on your balance
and core strength at the same time, SUPs can be enjoyed by all the family.
Horizon Yacht Charters has an extensive fleet of catamarans and monohulls with
bases in Antigua, St. Martin, Grenada and the BVI. Horizon is the authorized
caribbean dealer for Fountaine Pajot catamarans and the regional dealer for
For more information visit www.horizonyachtcharters.com.
afl Can CO
Six Caribbean Countries Endorse Climate Change Accord
Panos Caribbean reports: Six Caribbean islands have now endorsed the controver-
sial Copenhagen Accord, a key outcome of the 15th United Nations climate change
conference held in Denmark last December. They include Antigua & Barbuda,
Barbados, The Bahamas, Guyana, Trinidad & Tobago, and Jamaica.
The six islands join some 131 other countries in endorsing the accord, a non-
legally binding agreement that critics say is woefully inadequate if the planet is to
win the battle against global climate change,
Climate -Mn:- r-=-3 the threat of rising sea levels, the loss of coastal livelihoods
and the - I I .... marine species, as well as an increase in extreme weather
events such as hurricane ... 1 1. .. _1..
The agreement makes .-. ..- I I li I countries to provide US$30 billion
for the period 2010 to 2012 for adaptation and mitigation efforts in tho do-ol-ping
world. Beyond that, developed countries committed to ...
lion annually by 2020 to address the climate change:. 1- II I .... countries,
Ulric Trotz, science adviser to the Caribbean Community Climate Change Centre,
said that there were some hopeful signs coming out of the accord and noted that it
was on these that the region would build going into the climate change negotiations
set for Mexico in November.
Dive Bequia's First Official Project AWARE Clean-Up
Divers and staff recently worked I 11. I 1 ... up one of Bequia's most popular
in? nd snorkeling sites, the .1 I .1 1 1, in conjunction with the PADI-
I environmental charity Project AWARE,
Project AWARE Foundation is a registered nonprofit organization. In partnership
Thumbs down to
those who left all
this trash on the
reef, and thumbs
up to Dive Bequfa
for cleaning it up!
with scuba divers, Project AWARE offices located in the United States, United
Kingdom, Australia, Switzerland and Japan combine efforts to conserve aquatic
resources in more than 180 countries and territories of the world,
Polly Philipson, Project AWARE organizer, said, "It was great fun for divem, stu-
dents and staff to work together to preserve a heavily used marine area which is
home to a healthy reef. Devil's Table has a huge variety of juvenile fish and critters,
and we hope to protect this area by being responsible water users."
A report was submitted from the clean-up to Project AWARE. Pla.1; 1 .;. 1 Ltles,
cans and fishing line were the most common debris although a 1. -1 1. and
tyres were found, too,
Project AWARE Foundation works in partnership with divem and watersports
enthusiasts to combat challenges facing underwater environments. Project AWARE
and volunteers are committed to conservation initiatives including underwater
cleanup and marine debris prevention; coral reef conservation, monitoring and data
collection; shark conservation; improved management policies and marine protec-
tion efforts; environrr-ntal training: for divem and education programs for kids,
All divers received .1.1. .1 1. ... Dive Bequia, and Cathy Sachs and the team
would like to thank them for their help.
For more information on Project AWARE visit www.projectaware.org.
Coral Scholars Work, Learn in Tobago
Coral Cay Consewation scholars Louis Augustin and Pascaline Cotte, both from the
Chaos archipelago and residing in the UK, spent the month of August in Tobago as part
of the coral reef conservation scholambip programme, developing their skills in reef con-
servation while working closely with the Speyside Eco-Marine Park Rangers. On April
1st, the British Government announced the creation of the Chagos Protected Area, at
over half a million square kilometres one of the largest marine resemes in the world,
On August 31st, Pascaline and Louis attended the Tobago Independence Day
reception, hosted by Chief Secretary of Tobago House of Assembly, The Honourable
Owille D. London. The Chief Secretary highlighted the importance of preseming
Tobago's natural beauty in order to sustain tourism, a key industry. Coral Cay
Conservation hopes to continue to support the 1 1 .. II >use of Assembly through
efforts in researching, mapping and protection ci II .. reef systems,
For more information on Coral Cay Conservation visit www.coraicay.org.
MPAs: Protect Corals with Reef Networks
^---rang t recent Reuters news release, a UN study showed that the world
I coral reefs with networks of small no-fishing zones, and shift from
favoring single, big protected areas. Peter Sale, a leader of the study at the UN
University's Institute for Water, Environment and Health, told Reuters, "You need a
network of protected areas... It's important to get away from single protected areas,
which has been the common approach."
Fish and larvae of marine creatures can swim or be carried long distances. That
means it is often best to set up a network of small no-fishing zones covering the most
vulnerable reefs, with catches allowed in between. Closing big zones can be excessive
for conservation and alienate fishermen who then ignore bans,
In the past, Sale added, countries had sometimes set up large protected areas for
I I .. 11. 1 I ... .. .. .1 ... .. I 11... I make way for hotels and
*** the Caribbean, snapped
and groupers spend their lives as juveniles in m ner---- nd sea :-.- heds," Sale
said. As adults the fish go back to live on I. 1- .1.... a :. II protected
zones on both reefs and in mangroves.
Scientists recently discovered that the spiny lobster, the most valuable fishery in
the Caribbean, has a larval stage lasting seven months, shorter than widely believed.
Understanding ocean currents can help to show how far they get dispersed within
seven months before settling on the seabed. That can also help in deciding where to
site protected zones.
On September 7th, Dr. Peter Jones and Dr. Geoff Jones released a guide for man-
agers of Marine Protected Areas (MPAs), arrin th-m to take a new approach to
..t -f th- reefs. They claim that I .. .- that support the wellbeing of
1 1 population are compromised by management practices that fail
to recognize ecosystem interconnections,
The guide outlines ways to assess management actions which ensure that the
lawae of coral reef species are able to disperse successfully from spawning sites to
the reefs where they will settle and grow. This in turn will effectively sustain biodi-
vemity and ecosystem functioning, as well as coastal fisheries.
Water quality Study in Venezuelan Tourism Complex
Venezuela's non-profit Fundaci6n La Tortuga has partnered with students from the
UniversityofSantaMariaOrientecampus, ..1..... 11. .. 1.1. I l"Evaluation
of the Water quality of the Canals in the I ....-... ...il 1 1 I .. This coastal
complex in Puerto La Crux contains condominiums, hotels, boatyards and marinas,
connected by a system of canals joined to the sea. The water-study project began in
2008, based on the obvious dete-
,,g -., rioration of water quality and pos-
sible mass mortality of marine life
in the canals. The participation of
the students will allow the project
to move forward in the face of
funding challenges. The El Morro
complex, designed by urban plan-
ner and yachtsman Daniel Camejo
Octavio, is the heart of tourism
and yachting activities in Puerto
For more information visit
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Why Sea Turtles are Important
Sea turtles play an important role in the marine eco-
system and our lives. Sea turtles' diet includes jellyfish,
which is the main diet for leatherbacks; sea turtles
and poaching of their eggs could drive turtles to extine-
tion within the next ten years, and the consequences are
clear: the demise of sea turtles causes the loss of impor-
tant amounts of fish species consumed by humans
Hawksbills protect reefs by I l.... on sponges,
clearing space for the formation I .. coral colonies.
Green turtles feed on sea grasses, keeping the beds
short and healthy, thus providing shelter to hundreds
of species of small fish and crustaceans. The decline of
the Caribbean Green turtles contributed to the die-off
of sea grasses and the disappearance of coastal fish.
Sea grasses protect the coastline from wave erosion
thus stabilizing beaches. .1, 1- feed on crusta-
ceans and discard the bit- 1 -1. II ... their feces; the
disintegration of the shells increases the nutrient rate
in the ocean-bottom ecosystems.
Ocean Life and Pollution
Stopping the harvesting and consumption of sea
turtles and their eggs is important not only to contrib-
ute to the health of marine eco-systems, but also to
preserve our own health. Sea turtles have been a tra-
ditional food supply for many peoples in the Caribbean,
but recent research has shown that turtle meat is
often heavily contaminated. By
eggs we can put ourselves at risk I
health damage and even death.
Our oceans have been massively polluted with heavy
metals, mercury in particular, for the past 40 years,
due to chemical industrialization.mYearlypu to 6,000
by Marina Fast ti
Above: Children with a healthy hawkshill turtle to be released. Sea turtles ,, .. ? . .. in. .if I ..,, in for
many peoples in the Caribbean, but recent research has shown that turtle ..
Inft: Youth group in Caniacou with a rescued green turtle, also ready for release
toxic form of mercury. Small fish feed on tiny con- high concentrations of methyl-merculy in their flesh,
taminated organisms; larger fish feed on small fish, blood, organs and eggs,
accumulating mercury in their bodies; unable to expel The Global Map of Human Impact on Marine
these heavy metals through digestion, these remain in Ecosystems (Science magazine, 15 February 2008)
the organic system, poisoning it. High in the marine shows that the Caribbean Sea ran:-= from
food-ch .;. ...;ernt-m species such as the largest fish Medium" to "Very High" impact in ....- I pollu-
(tuna, 11.-1. .....lin, sharks, king mackerel, etcet tion and overfishing,
era), dolphins, whales and turtles end up carrying very -Continuedon next page
Coal-burning and chlor-alkali industries use mercury
for producing chlorine (used in plastics, pesticides and
PVC pipes). Incine-st-r 1 ... an ---st 1.-10 ling our
,u Ire ur i the air, la id at d w2 ,
ing up in our oceans .
Turtles, in th ir 1 ne migrat-c 1. --umulate in
t irr di1n eenvirorI ent: I erculy, cadmipresend
(Persistent Organic Pollutants) and a cocktail of differ-
ent pesticides. Inorganic mercury, in contact with
water organisms, becomes methyl-mercury, a highly
Located opposite G.Y.E.
Sea Turtles arid Their Egs:
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Fish-eating mis--t-c species (including birds) have
been tested ... II .... I to be highly contaminated even
in the most remote areas of the pla.. I I ... ..-1. ......
that location is no longer a factor ol .1 1 1. ... I II..
tion. Pollutants are everywhere, spread through the
food-chain process of sea and air creatures, winds and
Connecting the Dots of a Larger Picture
Since 2002, the Barbados Sea Turtle Project, the
University of the West Indies and the Wider Caribbean
Sea Turtle Conservation Network (WIDECAST), includ-
ing the Kido Foundation, have being applying ID tags
to nesting and foraging turtles to monitor their migra-
tions. Some hawksbills nesting in the Eastern
Caribbean (as well as Green turtles that forage there)
travel to the heavily polluted Gulf of Mexico, and our
southern-born leatherbacks travel as far north as
Nova Scotia, Canada and across the Atlantic to
Britain's coastal waters,
Tuna is today a highly contaminated fish. In the USA
and Europe, labels on large fish packages in super-
markets warn consumers of possible health risks.
I an article in the September 16th, 2006
.. Scientist magazine, the level of cadmium
in sea turtles measures three times higher and mer-
cury ten times higher than in tuna!
High levels of cadmium, aluminum, chromium, lead,
silver, mercury and titanium were found in tissue
samples taken from nearly 1,000 whales over a five-year
period, from polar to equatorial waters. Mercury as high
as 16 parts per million was found in these whales.
Merculy-high fish (shark, swordfish), which health
experts warn children and pregnant women to avoid,
typically have levels of about one part per million,
The Wo 1 lil .111. *. .... .I. .. and EU have set
allowable .. ..I. .I. ..- I 11. I .nned pesticide DDT
and its breakdown products in food at no higher than
50 ppb (parts per billion). Sea turtles in the Atlantic
have showed concentrations of breakdown products of
DDT as high as 1,200 ppb.
Medical researchers warn of the insidious effects
that mercury toxicity may cause to the brain develop-
ment of unborn babies and younger children. Effects
include neuro-developmental diseases, mental retar-
dation, attention deficit disorder and autism. Other
serious risks for children and adults are neurotoxicity,
kidney disease and liver cancer.
Diseases and symptoms induced by mercury poison-
ing include chronic fatigue, fibromyalgia, depression,
anxiety, obesity, dementia, Parkinson's disease, can-
cer, heart failure and heart disease, memory problems,
Alzheimer's, amyotrophic lateral sclerosis, multiple
sclerosis, encephalopathy (non-specific brain malfunc-
tion), inability to concentrate, tremor, loss of balance,
impaired hearing, tunnel vision, slurred speech, head-
aches, muscle pain and twitches, insomnia, digestive
problems and food allergies,
Aphrodisiac or Impaired Sexual Function?
Sea turtle products have been prescribed over the
centuries as remedies for anemia, asthma and respira-
tory problems and, in the Caribbean, sea turtle eggs
are traditionally claimed to be an aphrodisiac, con-
sumed mainly by males hoping to boost their sexual
performance. According to doctors, the opposite is
true: the high concentrations of cholesterol and pollut-
ants in turtle eggs may impair sexual performance and
lower fertility; namely, it is the very consumption of
turtle eggs that likely caused the embarrassing physi-
cal failure in the first place!
of eating turtle meat.
Based on the mortality statistics related to turtle
poisoning, the public in particular women of child-
bearing age, numbing mother and small children -
should be discouraged from consuming any sea turtle
products. Though turtles may appear healthy, there is
a high risk that they carry internal tumors or danger-
ous bacteria and are contaminated with methyl-mer-
cury, cadmium, POPs and pesticides.
Tumors Affecting Sea Turtles
Turtles too suffer from the pollutants they ingest and
increasingly develop fibropapillomas (tumors or can-
cerous growths), which affect humans as well. On
March 21st, 2007 in Carriacou, a mature Green turtle
with a four-inch fibropapilloma bulging over her right
eye was purchased alive by Kido Foundation at the
fish market, thus preventing her contaminated meat
from being sold to the unsuspecting public. This turtle
had several smaller tumors on her neck, flippers and
plastron. An inquiry among fishermen revealed that it
was not the first sea turtle with fibropapillomas to be
sold to the public in Carriacou,
International fisheries records show that sea turtles
worldwide are afflicted with fibropapillomas. First seen
on Green turtles in the 1980s, this type of tumor has
now spread to other turtle species. It grows on soft tis-
sues, eyes and mouth, through the carapace and plas-
tron (belly), on lungs, kidneys, liver and intestines,
Bacteria Present in Sea Turtles
Ongoing studies show that sea ..
bacteria: mycobacteria (which m .
nella, vibrio (may cause cholera), E-coli, chlamydia
(causing a pneumonia-like disease), leptospira, arse-
nic and potentially lethal toxins from ingesting algal
blooms ('red tides').
Data from 2003 2004 showed that 80 percent of the
samples of Green turtles in Baja California exhibited
high antibody levels of leptospirosis. People infected
with leptospirosis often show no symptoms, but left
untreated, it can cause kidney damage, meningitis,
liver failure, respiratory distress or death.
P-+1n. may kill bacteria and fungi (although it is
ve, 1.11. ..11 to eliminate bacteria from your hands
and tools after 1. ... 11.... aw meat), but cooking does
not eliminate 1. I. .....I..I toxins, which once ingest-
ed remain in our bodies. It is important to underline
that cooking turtle meat or eggs cannot get rid of
Proposal for the Immediate Future
Common sense and deep concern for public health,
as well as basic environmental conservation, suggest
that authorities in charge need to establish a morato-
rium for hunting sea turtles in each Caribbean state,
banning the trade and consumption of turtle products,
It is ah ... .. 1 suggested that authorities and the
media l..I ...I .... the public of the health hazards
associated with the consumption of sea turtles and
eggs, as well as of other contaminated ocean crea-
tures, which may expose us and future generations to
serious health hazards.
MarinaFastigi, Ph.D. is DirectorofKido Foundation, a
not for pmft organization in Carriacou, Grenada. "Sea
Turtle as Food is a Health Hazard for Consumers" is a
Kido public awareness campaign, supported by the
it .li -- ... r . .. et ..... .l ... .. .D.wspa
.. . .. .1 ,* ... . .r ... ... .il a 73) 443-
7936 or e-mail email@example.com.
Above: This Green turtle with tumors was on sale at
the local fish market
Below: A hawkshill with fbropapillomas. Mrst seen on
Green turtles in the 1980s, this type of tumor has now
spread to other turtle species
Poisoning and Deaths
Reported globally, cases of poisoning and deaths
(especially among children) from eating sea turtle
meat, organs and eggs and drinking turtle blood,
reveal the seriousness of the problem. In June this
year, in Thailand, three persons died of chelonitoxism
from ingesting hawksbill turtle meat: a village woman,
an 11-month-old boy breast-fed by his mom who had
eaten the same turtle meat, and a 60-year-old woman,
Dozens of those who shared that turtle meat also suf-
fered from symptoms including respiratory difficulty,
stomach pain, nausea, vomiting, fever and double
vision, but survived. In the Solomon Islands six chil-
dren died out of the 28 people affected within five days
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n in holeshot, rned-range acceleration
and top-end speed.
wooden boat building is a heady matter for the nine-
to 14-year-olds registered for the August 1st junior
races during the 2010 Carriacou Regatta Festival. The
reality of this was illustrated by junior sailor Arkim's
father, "Uncle C". In response to a compliment about
his Carriacou sloop, Margeta s, racing success, he said
solemnly, "My son will take the helm one day." The
pressure is on with an ECS1,950 purse for juniors alone!
A Carriacou junior sailing program began in the early
1990s. With facilities and a fleet of Opti-like boats, Ted
Tuson and volunteers held Saturday sailing sessions
and periodic Fun Days attracting up to 17 youngsters.
It was informal, effective and chaotic. Tuson moved
to England in 2008 and the club struggled.
On islands like Bequia and Carriacou, junior sailing
lives by the brilliance of a dedicated few. For
Carriacou, it is now Teena Marie, a reluctant heroine.
Her background was not all about sailing, the way it
was for Ted Tuson or Mackie Simmons in Bequia. Marie
uses her smarts and motivation to see her pre-teen
son continue. She emphasizes teamwork, boat respon-
sibility and safety on and off the water. Additionally,
she teaches swimming, which she considers a prereq-
uisite to sailing, and runs Small Fish, a profit-sharing
craftwork company which markets regionally. Junior
sailor Tristan's mother, Patsy, helps on the beach.
Businesses such as In Stitches and Snagg s, and cruis-
ers including Roland O'Brien, "Bananas" and Jim
Hutchinson, have for a decade bridged gaps and
supported the club.
Kobe James, Kaya Wilson, Tristan Eischner,
Teena Marie, Arkim Compton, Miles Martineau
and Noah Snagg
Redheaded Kaya, Marie's son, took third place in
the regatta's junior division, sailing Fire Fox. Tristan,
whose German father sailed into the Windwards 24
years ago and whose mother is from L Esterre,
carriacou, tied for second with Lucas, the son of a
L Esterre merchant. Regatta winner, Noah, says, "I live
in Grenada with my mother. My father lives in
Carriacou. My Opti is here in Hillsborough."
Carriacou junior sailors straddle two worlds. One is
modern sailing. The Grenada Sailing Club and region-
al youth regattas use ISAF racing rules. The other is
their native open boat racing, where colloquial com-
munication and rules take the day. "Id like to see the
kids race regionally," Marie observes. "To do this, I
believe they need to learn international rules of right
of way and racing." Her plan for the year ahead is to
standardize and upgrade the fleet, and to increase
the number of active members to 15, all the while
encouraging more girls to participate.
Two Caribbean Junior Sailors Shine in Singapore
Fresh from competing in the |-420 World
Championships in Israel in July, lan Barrows of the US
Virgin Islands won a Gold Medal at the first Youth
Olympic Games held in Singapore in August, sailing in
the boys Byte 011 class. Barrows had hit the front on
the penultimate day of the regatta and made certain
of success with a third-place finish in the medal race.
His score of 44 points gave him a 16-point margin of
victory over Germany s Florian Haufe.
Netherlands Antilles sailor Just van Aanholt clinched
bronze after winning the race on the last day, shad-
ing out Finland's Kaarle Tapper by four points.
Barrows stayed very focused to the end, as he
maturely describes: "You ve just got to stay really
focused and not get too caught up in the results and
not get too nervous. I had really good boat speed on
the upwind and tactics, so that helped a lot and I
was super conservative."
Just van Aanholt s success brought two caribbean
nations to the medals podium and he was proud of his
experience in Singapore. "Im just very happy. I think I
am going to celebrate with all my friends. The
Caribbean sailors are having a very good generation!"
Light Airs for Non-Stop Round St. Lucia Race
Sean Fuller reports: After a seven-year gap, the Non-
Stop Round St Lucia Race returned on August 21st.
Windless conditions did not bode well for this 70-mile
race with a time limit of 15 hours. The start gun went off
at 0700 with six boats inching across the line in 1.5 knots
of wind just off the St. Lucia Yacht Club at Reduit
Beach, Rodney Bay. They headed towards Pigeon
Island to proceed west about the island. First over were
two St. Lucia-based boats: Affifude, a J/24, followed
by Cider with Rosie, a Frers 39. The fleet hoisted their
spinnakers as they came onto a reach but most strug-
gled to fill them. Geronimo, a two-tonner class, picked
up speed as she approached Pigeon Island. Onboard
was German skipper Bruno Bruchhof, his partner and a
scratch crew of seven regular J/24 sailors.
The fleet beat towards the northern tip of St Lucia with
Ciderin the lead followed by Attitude, Kaiso, a
Sovereign 40, and Geronimo. Following were Breeze
Away, a Morgan 50, and Sprit of the Wind, a Beneteau
50. The wind stayed light, averaging eight knots.
Halfway down the east coast, Breeze Away and Spirit
of the Wind retired, followed by Kaiso. With an aver-
age boat speed of only three knots, they would not
have arrived back in Rodney Bay until the early hours.
Geronimo s skipper says, "No wind presented monu-
mental problems for the captains of the three remain-
ing boats in the race that battled it out neck and
neck to the bitter end."
The wind gods brought the three leading boats
home before the cut-off time of 2100, with a serious
match race developing between Cider and
Geronimo in the closing stages. Cider s skipper, Ulrich
Meixner, says, "From Vieux Fort to the Pitons we had a
wonderful spinnaker run, doing hull speed and up to
ten knots over the ground. We were leading up to the
Pitons, perhaps 45 minutes ahead of Geronimo and
about one hour ahead of Affifude, but then were
stuck for two full hours! Only the current drift carried us
through the Bay of Soufriere and just at the moment
we decided to start the engine, the breeze kicked in
and off we went."
Line honours were taken by Geronimo, with Affifude
winning on corrected time leaving Cider with a dou-
ble second. Affifude remember Beth Lygoe says,
"A 14-hour sail really didn t feel that long as the
island s coastline is inspiring to sail against, ever-
changing wind conditions to kept us on our toes, two
turtles popped up to welcome us to their waters, and
numerous flying fish helped us along the way.
The day after, a party was held at the St. Lucia Yacht
Club with a buffet and free Cavalier Rum sampling.
Fastest boat around the island received an average
skipper s weight in rum, being 80 bottles, first prize on...
-Continuedon next page
Argy Resano, Agustina Barbuto, Nikki Barnes, Alec
Tayler, Heidi Coyle, lan Barmws, Alex Coyle and lan
Coyle at the I 420 World Championships in Ismel
This ambitious summer of sailing started with two
teams Alex Coyle with Alec Tayler, and Nikki Barnes
with lan Coyle competing at Kiel Week in Germany,
from June 24th to 27th. Light winds created challeng-
ing conditions, with only five races completed out of a
planned 11 for the regatta. Coyle/Tayler finished 17th
and Barnes/Coyle 82nd in the 204-boat fleet.
Next was the Volvo Youth Sailing ISAF World
Championship in Istanbul, Turkey, sailed July 8th to
17th by sailors aged 18 and under. Only one male
team and one female team per country may com-
pete in each class. Coyle/Tayler represented the Boys
Division for the USVI, while Barnes and Agustina
Barbuto raced in the Girls Division. As in Kiel, extremely
light, shifty winds proved difficult for all sailors. Only
three races were completed during the first two days
of racing. The boys had a difficult start under these
conditions and, while the girls performed better, they
were carrying a DSQ from the first race and they
hoped to get in enough races so they could drop this
worst score. In the end, the Coyle/Tayler finished 25th
out of 36 and Barnes/Barbuto 14th out of 28.
Finally, the USVI team traveled to the |-420 World
Championships in Haifa, Israel, held July 25th to July
31th. Coyle/Tayler sailed in the Open Class, as did lan
Barrows with lan Coyle, while Barnes/Barbuto compet-
ed in the Women s Class. The Virgin Islands sailors got
off to a great start with all three teams making it into
the top half of their respective fleets, qualifying them
for the Gold Fleet. Coyle/Tayler qualified by placing
26th out of 83 boats, Barrows/Coyle had a 17th place
finish, and Barnes/Barbuto an 11th place finish. Great
conditions meant the race committee was able to run
all 11 planned races in the Finals. Ultimately, Coyle
and Tayler finished 19th out of 83, Barrows and Coyle
12th out of 83 and Barnes and Barbuto 13th out of 74:
all spectacular finishes for a Worlds competition, with
the ages of the Virgin Islands 1-420 team members
ranging from 14 to 17 years.
The US Virgin Islands 1-420 Team was coached by
Agustin Argy Resano and chaperoned by Heidi and
For more information,
visit www facebookcom/usvi420sailing.
Carriacou Juniors Have Their Day
Ellen Birrell reports: A heritage steeped in sailing and
BAREBOAT CHARTERS FULLY CREWED CHARTERS ASA SAILING SCHOOL
Doyle Sail Loft & Canvas Shop Raymarine Electronics Refrigeration Work
Mechanical & Electrical Repairs Fibreglass Repairs Laundry
Vehicle Rentals Showers Air Travel
Ice & Water Diesel & Propane Moorings
Island Tours Surftech Sud Shop Hotel Reservations
Quicksilver Sud Wear Restaurant & Bar Boutique
On-site Accommodation Wi-Fi / Internet Cafe Book Exchange
PO Box 39, Blue Lagoon, St Vincent, West Indies
Tel. 1-784-456-9526 / 9334 / 9144 Fax. 1-784-456-9238
USVI Junior Sailors Excel at 1-420 Worlds
Six junior sailors from the US Virgin Islands represented
the territory and St. Thomas Yacht Club in the
International 420 (1-420) two-person dinghy this sum-
mer, some of them traveling to as many as three
maior salina events in Eurone.
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Rock Regatta, founded to highlight the historical ties
between the US and St. Eustatius (Statia). This year s
event takes place from November 13th to 17th,
Starting in St. Maarten, the Regatta consists of five
days racing from island to island. The route differs
from year to year, with "Statia Day" on November
16th as one of the event's consistent highlights. This
year the islands of Anguilla and St. Barth s are includ-
ed in the program.
For more information visit wwwgoldenrockregaffa.com.
Jolly Harbour Yacht Club Regatta, Antigua
The Jolly Harbour Yacht Club Annual Regatta will be
held Saturday, November 13th and Sunday, the 14th.
The skippers meeting will be on the 12th at the
redheocukr bar in Jolly Harbour, Antigua from 1630 to
This regatta will have three classes: Cruiser, Racer-
Cruiser and Racer. The entry fee is ECS6 per foot,
which includes dinner at the Regatta Party with a
band at the Foredeck bar on the Saturday, plus free
dockage and a skippers bag. There will be four races
on the Saturday and three races on the Sunday
(weather permitting). Antigua Barbuda Search and
Rescue will be present at all the races to ensure safe
sailing. Prizes will be presented on the Sunday at
All are welcome. Come sail and have fun with some
of the best skippers Antigua has to offers
For more information visit www JHYCAnfigua.com.
The Formula 18 St. Barth cata Cup
The St Barth Cata Cup is the leading Formula 18
regatta in the Caribbean, this year taking place from
November 18th through 22nd.
The Formula 18 class (F18) is one of the success sto-
ries in the sport catamaran scene. It was started in the
early 1990s and quickly grew to a full-sized ISAF recog-
nized class with big racing fleets all over the globe.
Currently the F18 class is serviced by 11 professional
boatbuilders who all have designed and built their
own F18 boat, this is possible because the F18 class is
a Formula class any boat that adheres to a certain
limited set of general design speci-
fications may participate in all
These F18s are equipped with
asymmetric spinnakers and require
a skilled and physically fit crew to
do well in races. They are quite fast
despite their heavy construction
and the skill level in the F18 class is
second only to the Olympic
Even if you are not racing, this
should be a very exciting event
For more information
Silver Jubilee ARC: Sail On to
On November 25th, 1986, the
starting cannon was fired from a
Spanish Navy frigate and 204
yachts from 24 nations set off from
Las Palmas de Gran Canaria on
the inaugural Atlantic Rally for
Cruisers (ARC), the longest trans-ocean race ever
staged. Twenty-five voyages later, the event has
etched its way into the records books, this time as the
world's largest annual trans-ocean rally.
For 20 out of those 25 years the ARC has ended in St.
Lucia, at Rodney Bay Marina, which has become
widely regarded as the home of the ARC. This year s
Silver Jubilee ARC begins on November 21st, and most
participants are expected to arrive in St. Lucia
between two and three weeks later.
The aim of the ARC both then and now is to
emphasize the amateur, Corinthian spirit as opposed
to the more professional nature of some ocean-sailing
events. For this reason rules are kept to a minimum.
Although one of the thoughts behind this Rally was to
add some zest and friendly competition to the long
passage, another consideration was to increase safe-
ty. One of the few rules stipulates that every boat
should carry a liferaft and an Emergency Positioning
Indicating Radio Beacon (EPIRB). Although planned
as a fun event, many crews expressed interest in
competing rather than simply cruising, so in 1989 a
Raci n rDvis ndusing the Channel Handicap System
With the event continuing to grow in strength, reach-
ing a record entry of 235 yachts and regularly
exceeding 200 entries, it has become firmly estab-
lished on the international sailing calendar.
Multimillion-dollar upgrades to the IGY Rodney Bay
Marina ensure that today s yachtspeople enjoy the
highest standard in facilities matched by equally
acclaimed international service delivery.
The ARC organizers, World Cruising Club, attempt to
satisfy everyone taking part by providing prizes for
performance, either on speed or on handicap, as well
as presenting other prizes such as those awarded for
thse ist mily performance, the oldest boat, and the
The Saint Lucia Tourist Board plays a lead role in coor-
dinating and spearheading some of the key on-island
activities for the participants and always seeks to
ensure buy-in and support from the local community.
Since the start of the rally 25 years ago, the ARC has
developed its own special character, forging many
friendships in the relaxed atmosphere and profound
sense of camaraderie that has become the hallmark
of this special event that entices people back year
It is a combination of all of those factors, along with
the excitement of new and innovative things planned
for commemorating this Silver Jubilee of the ARC,
which continues to fuel anticipation and added rich-
ness to the already colorful history of the Atlantic Rally
for cruisers... Sail on ARCI
For more information on the ARC
For more information on St Lucia visit wwwsitucia.org.
continue from previous page
...handicap was a free haul-out, scrub off and three
days storage ashore. Overall Winner: Affifude, skip-
pere Bethe a : : : Cider with Rosie,
Above: SLYC Sailing Captain Edgar Roe congratulates
Fastest Boat crew Nanette, Franck, Bruno, Daniel,
Nick, Paolo and Scott. In white Tshirt is Imah
of Cavalier Rums
Below: Edgar with trophy winners on handicap,
Edwin Chavez, Jerry Bethel, Jim Enright
skippered by Ulrich Meixner, fastest yacht: Geronimo,
skippered by Bruno Bruchhof.
Thanks go to sponsors IGY Rodney Bay Marina,
Renwick & Co (Cavalier Rum), Delirious, The
Boardwalk Bar, Rain Forest Sky Rides and Heineken.
For more information visit www.situciayachtclub.com.
The 'Willy T' Virgins Cup Race, BVI
This year s William Thornton Virgins Cup Race, pre-
sented by The Royal BVI Yacht Club, will take place
on Saturday October 9th, starting in Road Town
Harbour, Tortola. Registration takes place on October
8th from 6:00 to 8:00PM at the Royal BVI Yacht Club.
The Notice of Race, Sailing Instruciions, entry form
and courses are available at www rbviyccom/index
Volvo Triskell Cup, Guadeloupe
Start the new racing season with one of the most
popular events in on Guadeloupe s sailing calendar
- the Volvo Triskell Cup. It will take place from
October 30th to November 1st at Petit Cul de Sac
Marin and Baie du Gosier, Guadeloupe, just off the
capital city of Pointe a Pitre. The regatta offers partici-
pants and spectators alike an intense sailing competi-
tion and a very festive weekend.
For more information visit www.triskellcup.com.
6th Golden Rock Island-to-Island Regatta
Since 2005, St. Eustatius, historically known as The
Golden Rock, has been the destination of the Golden
can k ne wsa
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flights between W
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by Kirsty Morrison
The Carriacou Regatta, held over the early August
"bank holiday", is one of the highlights of this little
Grenadine island's calendar. It was started in 1965 for
the locally built traditional workboats. Back in its hey-
day in the early 1980s, some 20 of these decked sloops
competed, but only two remained for the 1984 regatta.
- Andrews' commissioning
I Genesis on the beach in
.* **)5, there has been a real
renaissance of the boatbuilding trade.
This year there were 13 competitors in the two
decked sloop classes. Among the growing fleet, on her
maiden voyage, sailed New Moon. Owned by Dave
Goldhill, a longtime resident of Carriacou, she was
launched just two weeks beforehand, on Sunday, June
11th. If you know your sea gods, you never launch a
boat on any other day of the week down island. A little
under 32 feet, she was built to race in the B Class.
Although thrilled by the growing numbers of the larger
boats in A Class, Dave was keen to revive the smaller
class and keep these boats within the pockets of the
layman. New Moon won her class, even without her
owner aboard. His second son helmed while Dave and
Alexis shot footage for a documentary they are making
about these magical vessels.
Izft: Building about under the seaside trees at
Windwad is traditional...
Above: ... but the cradle launching is not
The sails were borrowed just in time for regatta. And
there are still more lead ingots sitting in Dave s yard
e cohT g s c e attended by the whole
ing, as the traditional "cutting" of one row of supports
T I ...1 1.... of New Moon could be a documentary
in :1 II I stayed true to the Carriacou style of
:11. man 1 r-is=in mnt-rinl= --+-r-ver possible.
I ... St. Vincent,
still with all its original galvanized rigging; it had come
from an I . I hich nearly inspired Dave to intro-
nl ap n (whi Man. Ho ver, he stu 1hi
h a3 Fdandur ce
Margeta O I. -1. ... the fishing e. .... I- the
Classic Yacht Regatta she was the only truly work-
ing workboat to compete,
While sticking to the traditional ways, Dave chose to
s Im ek 1 rd nmle he40tha new he cand
Hurricane Ivan in 2004. A lifting barge was commis-
sioned and, after unimaginable complications, the keel
ended up in a backyard in Grenada along with an over
turned truck. The truck had landed on a dog kennel
and there were pit bulls running wild. But eventually
the lead was cut and transported to Carriacou where an
external keel and ingots for internal ballast were cast
while resting on wheel rims over a fire on the beach,
An old mast was found lying on the beach in
Windward and quickly one mast became two booms,
Aboovee: T bkee mee sea only two weeks
Izft: New Moon (at leff), rigged and ready to compete
and rolling her down the beach on her side was con-
sidered too risky with all that weight in her keel. She
was hauled by men, women and children alike and
eventually floated free to rapturous applause. The
party lasted deep into the night and New Moon could
only watch as the red flag bearing her new name flut-
tered in the breeze.
Old and Ne~
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berth to avoid a small reef and some shoal water.
When inside the bay you can anchor in ten feet of
water with good holding.
The village, called Caille Coq, is made up of a collection
of small buildings, houses and fishing boats. The hotel
occupies the hillside to the east and has a dinghy dock.
The people from the village speak mostly French and
Creole, but some can communicate in English as well.
You can easily find laundry services, and guided trips
to the market and nearby village of Madame Bernard.
There are no cars and the island has no electricity
other than an isolated generator, so there are also very
few lights at night. You will find the anchorage and the
village very, very safe.
Clearing in is simple anal -1. ...1.11 .. I .1 can
give your passports to the bil -1 .11 ... Ia l. .11 take
them to the small town of Les Cayes by boat and have
them processed for you, or you can go in you. 1... 1.
yourself. The town of Les Cayes is a little
nautical miles northwest on the mainland. It is a safe
town and I have gone there many times without inci-
dent. There are no Immigration facilities on Ile-A-
Vache, and many of the boats who stop only for a day
or two do not clear in or out. This is not a practice I
would recommend but many cruisers have told me
that they did not feel the formalities were necessary.
The Village of Caille Coq
.. ... .11 11.. ...1. 11. Village of Caille Coq and you
1 .11 1... I 11 .11 .. .. .. ... I clean. The villagers tend to
1...... I ... .. ... re than cordial. Most people are
1.. .. II ... I l... Ir to welcome cruisers,
ill. ...I. 11. .- .. I organized market, if you want
to purchase some of the village handicrafts, from time
to time you will have an opportunity. From oil paint-
ings, which are very well done and very Haitian in their
format, to hand-sewn items, you will see objects that
are handmade on the island and of good quality at
-Continued on next page
The anchorage at le-aVache (Cow, Island) is wuell protected and ucrowd
the conclusion of Part One, we
were anchored at Bahia de Las
Aguilas on the south shore of the
Dominican Republic, close to the
western border. We were anchored at 17050.91N,
071o38.260W in ten feet of clear water,
We have decided to set sail at 6:00PM, as the distance
to our destination is approximately 115 nautical miles.
Bahia de Las Aguilas is so large and so wide that we
can sail west without regard to any obstacles, even if
we do:. 1. ... ... ..1, 1.. In addition we are sail-
ing un I 11. I II ....I I .1 which most times
results in smooth seas. We will have the tradewinds as
well as the current:.. ... I . .111. .1. 1. 1. I ... 1-
will probably be n 1.. Ia l. ...I 1 11. 11 1 Ia l.
katabatic winds coming down from the mountains of
the Dominican Republic. These winds are cold air from
the mountains descending after the sun goes down.
They have a I .11.... IT et on the tradewinds within
the shadow la 1. .- I ... I
Our destination is a point at the southwest end of
Ile-A-Vache, Haiti. This arbitrary waypoint is at
18002.871N, 073o40.767W. Once we reach this point
we will turn north and then east.
Arriving at Ile-a-Vache
Ile-A-Vache is best approached from the west end of
the island, as entry is then straightforward. On the
east side of the island, there are numerous shoals and
coral heads, which while navigable, are not worth the
effort. The anchorage we seek, at the Port Morgan
Hotel (www.PortMorgan.com), is at the northwest end
of the island. The hotel answers VHF channel 16 and
will most times send out a guide boat if you would like
assistance. The entrance to the Baie & Feret, where the
hotel is located, is easy and most boats can go in
unassisted. You need only give the west shore a wide
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The gear-driven fresh water pump has a longer Ilfe and less to go wrong while the waste gate turbo
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-Continued from previous page
sounds and smells of a traditional marketplace in action. The market is reminiscent
of articles in National a in ... . ... .. 1 Co. Vhile you will be safe walk-
ing through the marke .. .11 1... I ... II : ..... 1. out of what you are famil-
iar with. Please keep in mind that the majority of Haitians do not like their picture
taken and if you attempt to take a pic-
ture without their permission you may
very well cause an incident,
Sister Flora is a small Canadian Catholic
nun who arrived on Ile-A-Vache nearly
50 years ago. She takes care of about
400 children in total, including some 60
orphans. Donations are strictly at your
discretion and you will not be solicited
by her or her organization. One of the
clinics in her hospital assist=
children who are seriously ill 2.. I
do choose to visit be prepared to leave
with wet eyes.
There are a number -f :r-lar that
assist Ile-A-Vache, .. .. 1- I Ile-A-
Clockwise fmm above: Sister Flora (at Vache Haiti, a non-profit organization,
right) runs the orphanage at Madame is dedicated to sustainable economic
Bernard a welcoming wave from a local development. They have done and are
jishing boat; the "no problem bank"; anoth doing a wonderful job. Every cent that
er view of the bay is donated to Friends of Ile-A-Vache
goes to the community as the organiza-
tion work, for free and there are aban
the girls have their hair braided. Their smiles and waves are worth more than a
shopping spree on 5th Avenue in Manhattan.
You can arrange to eat at one of the homes where they will cook for you at a mod-
est price, or arrange to have them cook your meal and have it delivered to you at the
dinghy dock. Additionally you can eat at the hotel, which has a fine menu as well as
wonderful vistas. They also have an internet connection for those who need to catch
up. There are a few local islanders who will come out from the village and offer you
their service if you need work on your boat. This is for basic work such a= -1- .
a bottom or sanding and so forth. Be sure you have a price established I
. start the job and be fair.
IF Haiti is a country of strong contrasts.
Economically there are rich and poor in the
1 II.. .1.. ... 1 1 tor everywhere else outside
vi II. l... .I. When you come to Ile-A-
Vache you will find a place that is tranquil
and that has a strong history of fishing and
of ----1--Train; cruising boats. The people are
full I -....I and their village is a model of
organization and cleanliness. There are, how-
ever, very few jobs, so money is always in
short supply. Donations of all types are
greatly appreciated. However, it is not a good
idea to give gifts directly to individuals, as
that always leaves someone feeling left out.
Seek out the island administrator, who is
$ p. readily available; he will accept donations of
food, clothing and supplies for the school and
will be sure that they are apportioned fairly.
While I have not heard in all my visits to Ile-
A-Vache of acase of theft, please keep in mind
. that your boat is seen as a floating castle and
... access to below decks should be avoided,
The Village of Madame Bernard
Madame Bernard is about an hour's walk from the anchorage at Caille Coq. You
could make your way there on your own, but it is much easier and more informative
to have a guide go with you. In settled weather you can make it there via a short
dinghy ride. Two days a week a market is held and people from all over the island
as well as others from the mainland come to trade. This is a spectacle you do not
want to miss. You will be transported back in time to experience all the sights,
lately no expenses. You can contact Friends of Ile-A-Vache through their website
(www.friendsofileavache.com) for information and details.
Last year cruising sailboat. i..-la-ling th-se participating in the Transcaraibes
rally, brought hundreds of .... 1- I .. I I supplies. Prior to that, the cruising
community brought in a number of rebuilt outboard engines for the fishermen.
Times are changing and I am sure there will 1. ...; ...troduced at Ile-A-Vache
in the not-too-distant future that will make it 1.11 ..I than it is today. If you
want a safe setting in which to experience the Caribbean as it was prior to 1960,
Ile-A-Vache should not be missed,
Next month we will up anchor and set course for Port Antonio, Jamaica and continue
our journey through the Forgotten Caribbean. For additional information on Haiti, see
the free cruising guide at www.haiticmisingguide.com.
b~~ay Pnlp ls ep
On a feather-gray, SPF tropical summer morning, I row ashore
with the dog, haul the tender up to the driftwood fence, tie off
and trek down a rocky road, through weeds, wildflowers, and
puddles, to the park where horses graze and kids play baseball.
Skip and I run for shelter to the touristic mall across the main
street, where we wait out a 30-percent-chance shower with other
pedestrians. On to the market, stopping to change a 1000-peso
bill (about 27 dollars) as few vendors will have that much money
Samani's market is a cornucopia of comestibles and more,
from T-shirts and towels to herbs and spices, a wide variety of
seasonal fruits and veggies at very reasonable prices. You could
spend the difference in the souvenir shops, more than willing to
bargain for a sale. Before the tourist season starts up again, hur-
ricane season is a good time to shop; salespeople don't have their
holiday vacationing customers yet, so we can freely discuss
value, and maybe arrive at a mutual agreement. In winter, whale
watching is a big attraction in Samand Bay, and the northern
hemisphere's snowbirds return to breathe some economic life
in rH s STon ni, on the Dominican Republic's northeast coast, is a safe harbor to
enjoy w ..1 ..1.... I ... .. Basting window: nearing the I afford-
able in ....- I l.... ... I ... .. with good provisioning for f. -1. I .1 1 1- inter-
net access, postal service, public transportation, water and fuel on-board delivery,
and many English-speaking descendants of Samani's founding fathers.
Quakers from Philadelphia shipped a number of freed slaves here long ago, to
make their way as best they could in the Caribbean climate. Martin, the translator/
guide who came aboard with the Navy's welcoming committee of La Marina de
Guerra (Una Profesibn Honorable is their motto) spoke English as a child before
learning Spanish. In Samand, guides take 1.....- -. 1.... 11. representatives of
the Dominican Republic's government in de .1.... .11. I .... .-.1 rs,
Almost every Dominican port has such a I ....... II.... I ..-....1 process, so it is
advisable to have small denominations of any currency on hand, to put up with
Forming one side of the anchorage, Samanas 'breezeway' or 'bridge to nowhere'
provides a long walk with great views
these entry procedures and to maintain a polite visitor's attitude. In Samand, the
translator is a plus, an option that can help you navigate the halls of Latin bureau-
cracy. The minimal cost is well worth the savings in hassle and frustration. Martin,
whose turn it happened to be on the Monday we landed here, was truly helpful. My
Spanish works, but I call on our translator/guide at times, for local knowledge, help
and a chat. Like many senior citizens of Samand, Martin was raised in an
speaking household, his Grandma Miller having been born into slavery in tl. I
-Continued on next page
despacho cost nothing but a little time, and I tipped the secretary just because,
A different delay in this process was the Public Health blood pressure person, who
appeared and volunteered free blood pressure readings for any and everybody. Mine
is okay, the secretalys was just fine. Martins is under control... Take it easy!
When we first arrived in Samana, we grabbed a mooring buoy marked BAHIA:
it costs between five and ten dollars a day, and Joe will come to you to collect,
-Continued on next page
continue from previous page
Straight across the bay, south-southwest. lies Sabana de la Mar, the sweetest little
fishing village ever. Dont even 1....1 .1 ..I ... 1. ..... there, the coral reefs offer little
protection, but there are six fel.. I..I 1. ... II. .mana muelle (dock). where you
tether your 1... 1. I she iron ladder behind the big gray Navy launch. Motoconchos.
motorcycle 1. ...11 ... erowd the end of the Sabana de la Mar muelle in hopes of a
Customer they can transport, but you needn't get involved: right near the ferry dock
and across the street from a big park. between the police station and the martel
(barracks) is a big bamboo structure you can t miss, with a trim little yard in front,
Inside or at a backyard table. you can relax. have a cool drink, and marvel at the
artistic wood architecture of this clean. conveniently located, spacious. rest stop,
In the park around the quay. different forms of Dominican fishing craft abound,
including the cayuco type carved from a single tree trunk.
this Parque Nacional de los Haitises by way of Sabana de la Mar, to see the Indian
cave-paintings, and marvel at the primeval beauty of this unique site,
La Bahia de San Lorenzo is part of Los Haitises, an easy sail southwest from
Samana. A bay within a bay. you need to experience this indescribably gorgeous,
natural hurricane hole. The entrance is wide and clear. youll probably see boats full
of visitors whizzing through. The bay goes deep into a river thal .
Ask for a despacho to visit Los Haitises when you check into -
following red-tape procedures. I overheard a local woman reporting theft of her open
boat. Her Spanish went beyond mine, but the commandant. busy dealing with her
charges, didnt take much interest in my despacho request, so I spent some time on
a couple of other errands and returned in less than an hour, while the secretary
typed up my permission slip. I gathered that so many tourist excursions of greater
proportions are dispatched to Los Haitises daily, one sailboat is of little import: the
A little further into town. Fon Vons 'comidas internacionales' restaurant is very
nice, charming, and helpful with any touristic information you need. After we
enjoyed a tasty lunch of fresh shrimp scampi with plantain puree. Our hosts hooked
us up with the honest, pleasant taxi driver we needed to take us further inland,
There are officially licensed guides who can show you around the area. which is
renowned for its pre-Columbian, indigenous Taino history. To the west, an impres-
sive expanse of virgin forest is preserved as a national park. Many Dominicans visit
-Continued from previous page
My neighbor Jeff, whose sailboat Janice Ann is moored here, put the moorings
down; Domingo, who dives to maintain them, showed me the humongous chains
that are wrapped around sunken cement pilings, probably intended to build the
docks that have been left in mid-construction at the end of Samana harbor. The
115 us *
6 - .- .".* -e" a
taurants, water and fuel, and lots of boat people. It is harder to leave than it is to get
there. The paperwork is a chore, as usual, and the list of taxes goes on and on. The
agriculture rep was the only official to take any notice of our dog since we bought
her veterinary certificate of good health in the US another tax. Clearing out, same
process, more taxes. (Still, the total of all the tips and taxes we've paid in the
Dominican Republic has not yet reached that bold Bahamian lump sum of US$300
for any boat over 36 feet.)
For local nautical help, Tommy, who does day-sailing trips with Hotel Luper6n
clients, is a good sailor. Tommy and crew are in and out of Luper6n Bay regularly on
the catamaran DreamSail he has working knowledge of maintenance, weather, and
general boating matter 1 ... 1 .". ... .u1.1 down the street from Customs, on a
corner past the Orange 11 I 1. .. -1. I 1. I us up with WiFi on board so we could
get our precious internet weather reports. There's cheap public transport to nearby
cities, and beautiful walks along trodden paths in the surrounding hills. Some peo-
ple never d : I .. .... 1 1 leaving Luper6n, it's just so comfortable, actually! We're
bound for 1. I .. I. -1 Indies, so we slipped away, all too soon, motoring east
with Bruce van Sants guide book, Passages South, a gift from a big old schooner not
yet ready to go, but always ready to help.
Inft: A typical dugout cayuco at Sabana de la Mar
Below: Peace in EL Valle my favorite anchorage on this coast
bottom is nasty mud, fairly good anchor holding, quite deep. There is a marina
past Samana westward, with condominium housing on the hillside.
True, Luper6n, on the Dominican Republic's north coast, is a perfectly well pro-
tected, popular venue for boated. We made Luper6n our very first port of call in the
Dominican Republic. Coming from the Bahamas 1.. ...1. He Turks & Caicos south-
east, Luper6n is a most convenient waypoint. Th II 1. Bahamian sunsets have
-t t- 1-e worth their weight in gold, but for provisioning... as we approached the
.1 hills of Hispaniola, we were looking forward to some fresh produce and
soon! Arriving in daylight, we could see and skirt the enormous half-sunken iron
barge smack dab in the middle of the Luper6n entrance (about 19054'N 17056'.77W).
On a moonless night, go slow,
By now Luper6n is so well known that from Martinique to Key West we hear rave
reviews about the place. Luper6n has almost all the yachting conveniences dinghy
docks, a cleaned beach, internet, cruisers' net, yacht club, tiki hut bar, cheap res-
We motomailed through the night to anchor at Rio San Juan, near Cabo Frances Viejo,
on the recommendation of a French couple we met in Luper6n. In no time we were
2 -1 II al. 1 ... .. .. a couple ofmilitaly types, and a fisherman's son in his
cl I I .1 1. I I.-i .1 1. 10 Samana we had paid for in Luper6n, so we swore we
would not set foot on land and got out of paying any entry fee, promising to leave within
24 houm. The welcome/ently fee guys were not particularly pleased, but they compli-
mented us on our navigating through the coral heads, and we parted on good terms,
-Continued on next page
-Continued from previous page
We stayed just long enough to buy a fresh fish from some passing fishermen, then
squeezed our way back out while it was still daylight, and anchored next to the Swim
Club, which is less tricky. The rocky bottom held our Danforth well enough. A bit of
R&R, and on we went, under cover of the night lee...
Our next anchorage on the way to Samand was E1Valle (a.k.a. Puerto Escondido),
my favorite. The entrance has these inverted-bowl signature islets, and the hills are
as fantastic as cloud shapes. The deepest valley leads to a quiet little beach where
we anchored in tranquillity; no welcoming brigade! 1..-1 11. ......1 green mountains,
tropical sounds, a stream of sweet water perfect I . .11 .11. the dear old dog,
and a much-needed siesta,
Rounding the double cape northeast of Samand Bay ... 1.1 sailed past the
bay and kept on south-southeast to Punta Hicaco, ea- I I 1. I. A crescent of
beach ringed with palm trees... sure enough, two guys from the cartel showed up,
and got the same Samand dispatch excuse instead of an ently fee. One of the
marines used his shorts to wrap his military issue revolver in, to keep it dry, travel-
ing in his wet briefs doesn't everyone?
From Punta Hicaco we motored down the coast to Punta Macao near the eastern
tip of the island. Basically we moved either during the night lee, or in the early dawn
hours, daytime invariably bringing on untenable east winds.
Punta Macao was a sweet anchorage. We found a way to buy diesel nearby, and gave
the comandante a 20-dollar bill to take care of whatever. His enlisted men do guard
the beach, which is well loved by parties of tcm-i=t= f-r--irn and Dominican. Punta
Macao's beach, Sol de Plata (silver sun), is an .. .... I. -1 with music, horseback
riding, dune buggies, souvenir hawked, food and drink. In the afternoon and evening,
the silver sun beams down -nh ., I people f--11+1n: in the surf. For yachts, little
Palomita Beach, nestled l.... I 11. profile-1.1 1.11 is the best-protected spot to
anchor in sand, grass and rocks. It's safe and secluded, guarded by the ownem of the
11. of Punta Macao. Yachties are welcome to stroll
11 coume just climb the staim to the tiki hut,
which will someday be part of a future marina named Roco Key.
From Punta Macao, if you need provisions or internet you hav- t- :1-.1- 1-us or a
motorcycle ride to La Ceiba, the next village inland. It s not far; y. .. 11 I I I ... time
for tea. An air-conditioned mini-bus will stop in front of the biggest fruit/vegetable
store on the west end of La Ceiba. Enjoy their specialty, coctel de frutas, and don't
forget to flag down your bus; its destination is on a sign on the windshield,
We almost crossed the Mona Passage from Punta Macao, however... Leaving at
dawn, a few miles underway what should we meet up with but a stray fishing buoy,
a horrific construction about the size and shape of a big old outboard engine, built
out of styrofoam, polypropy1. .. .. II.... I I.-1...tg line, and a black garbage bag,
with a rusty iron bar where I. -1. .11 I .. I ..Ill We weren't paying attention, as
we should have been. Our motor cut off when the whole mess was already tangled
up in the propeller. Too much swell to dive, so we sailed northeast, avoiding some
squalls we could see headed our way,
It gets worse. Skip decides to try and gaff away some of the trash we're trailing
before it gets into the rudder, too. So he clambers aft, poking away garbage wrapped
I the shaft, and ends up falling with one leg in a companionway and the
11 er the side owee! and bleeding away internally,
Which is quicker, east or west? We made it back to Punta Macao in a fraction of the time
it would have taken to reach Puerto Rico, and anchored in a big hurry, in the pitch dark,
A light was on at the cartel, where Jose, beach restaurateur/entrepreneur, parks
his pick-up. The enlisted men were helpful, quick, and sympathetic, hardly
an eye at Skip's miserable state of serion inine 1^-^ --s roused and the :
us, including one Marina de Guerra guy, 1. II ... .. 1. of an emergency Clinica
de Urgencia. (Before we fast-forward to the moral of this gory surgical story, let me
add that our accompanying Marine was so sleepy, having :-- .1-1- 1 th- fort and all,
being 20-something, he asked Jose to put on some music, ... I. ...I. search for
urgent medical help was to the tune of the great guitarist and songwriter Antony
Santos, very upbeat IAst, ast!)
Whenever we reached a crossroads, Jose would ask us which town we preferred to
try. Whichever is closer! iln mas cerca! So Jose remembers a Cuban doctor he
knows. That clinic, in Bavarro, is open at 2:00Alvi, but the Cuban doctor can't handle
this particular injury, and believe me, it was on its way to gangrene. We'd never even
imagined anything like the condition Skip's nether regions were in. Well, one good
Inside Punta Macao, a sweet anchorage near the eastern tip of the island,
It provides a good jumping-of point for the passage to Puerto Rico... and more
doctor leads to another, and by 3:00Alviw we were cruising the streets of Higuey by
night, an hour further inland,
Finally, we arrived at Clinica Balthazar, which has a resident general surgeon who
partners with a -n--1- ri.t and that's why we spent July 2010 at Punta Macao, Sol
de Plata. Back a:. II .11. to Higuey for weeks. That's why I know the Top 40 on the
Dominican hit parade. The moral is: Hey, look where you're going!
Amonthlater, Tropical Depression Colin sea--4 m int-1- -in:"F nd heading
back west, still with close ties to the urologist, -1.11 1. I l.... I -1 1 ... ...... .1 despa-
cho to Samand, which we had skipped past when we sailed from El Valle to Punta
Hicaco. The delay raised an eyebrow when the welcoming committee checked the
date (la fecha) on our despacho, but we had a doctor's excuse. And besides, the tax
collector was absent from his office on the day I went to pay the entry fee, so it was
waived indefinitely. Mafiana, man.
Stay tuned; this too shall pass. We're enjoying our stay in Samand, and we'll be
cruising again before you can say I told you so.
feet or broken shoes were announced.
Luckily, just a short clamber away from the river we found what seemed to be an
abandoned house on stilts about 20 feet up the bank. We scrambled up, getting
covered in wet mud, and took cover for a while underneath the house, dog and all.
As the rained started to ease, we navigated our way back to the river, hanging on to
roots and vines to stop us from sliding down on our bums.
After another 20 minutes or so we could see the road home running above us and
it was not long before we climbed up the bank and put our feet on flat solid ground
again. If we had carried on up the river for another five minutes we would have
reached a very small but pretty waterfall. If you time it right, you can enjoy the
waterfall as the sun shines through the gorge it falls from. But sadly (due to blistered
feet and broken shoes) this was not meant to be today.
Simeon and I arrived in Deshaies on the northwest corner of Guadeloupe after a
bumpy ride from Antigua aboard yacht Alianna, our 1983 Corbin 39. We had spent
several days in Antigua, boat bound due to unsettled weather, and were getting itchy
feet to go ashore.
Deshaies has always been one of our favourite stops. The deep bay protected by
the surrounding hills offers a safe and scenic anchorage for both sailors and fisher-
men alike. The small picturesque town is always an enchanting place to walk
around, relax and soak up the ambiance of the French West Indies. The little restau-
rants and cafes offer some of tl. I -1 ...... ... ... leloupe. Charming souvenir
shops adorn the streets, selling I. .. .. II -1 .. 1- batiks, sarongs and locally
There is always good walking to be found in Deshaies. At the north end of town
you can follow the road to a path that leads to one of Guadeloupe's best beaches. To
the south of town, by the fishermen's breakwater, you can walk to the park at Point
Batterie or to the delightful botanical gardens a little farther up. But our plan for
today was to walk up the cool tranquil waters of the River Deshaies.
Our friends Jon and Sam on Imagine of Falmouth had also just arrived so we din-
1.. 1 I n--ars them to come with us. After much discussion about the
11 (about a 5 out of 10) and the type of shoe required (one
that can wade through water and not skid) they reluctantly agreed to maybe give it
a go and would come ashore with us anyway, to clear in,
I ... past the fishermen's breakwater and tied up
ju-il I 11. l..I. ... II. -....II.. Havinggottheformalitiesoutofthewaywe
were ready to commence the walk. Things were not looking promising as the sun was
already high in the sky and sweat was pouring from us.
To join the river, just follow it back from the bridge at the south end of town. A
concrete road leads bad- isolain-1 al-ing=i-l- th- ri- -r until it leads you directly to it.
From this point on you .. I ....I ..... 1. ... I ..1 1 .- to boulder as the river winds its
way into the hillside.
With a sudden bout of enthusiasm we were bounding along from rock to rock like
a bunch of excited school children, zigzagging our way up the river with the cool
fresh water sparkling as it flowed past us. The large trees and vines formed a natural
.. to protect us from the heat of the sun. The shallow river, which is about 15
I runs over rocks and boulders and is not more than two feet deep in most
places. In spots it formed deeper pools, enticing us in.
Clockwuise from above: We encouraged our friends from Imagine of Falmouth to come
It seemed that we had gained a litth member on our trek. A stray dog had joined us
at the beginning of the trip and although we are all animal lovers we tried to shoo the
dog away and net -n--sirs:- him to follow us. However the gallant little mutt would
not be deterred 2.. II II I us farther and farther up river. He would always let his
human counterparts step first across the rocks and, although he seemed happy wad-
ing in water, he did not like to swim, which would leave him whimpering and whining
when he would get himself stuck on a rock by a deeper pool. He scraped and scram-
bled so much, slipping down the boulders, that after a while we were so far up the
river we felt obliged to help him, making sure he would get back to town with us later,
1 we called words of encouragement to the dog we now
l...npy or Rover, depending on who was talking to him.
After an hour of tramping up the river, despite the shade offered, we were hot and
bothered and in need of a good cooling off. We picked a pool to our liking and while
Sam and I already had our swimwear on, the boys, not wanting to get their clothes
wet, whipped off their shorts and jumped in naked to a chorus of giggles. We frol-
icked in the cool water, listening tc 11. ..11 .... I- I 11. ater slipping by and to
the strange songs of the tropical : -1 -, I 1..... I curled up in a shady
spot and rested, all the while ka ; ..., .. l..I I1. .1 his newfound friends
wouldn't leave without him,
No sooner had we dried off than the heavens opened up and the long-awaited rain
we needed to fill our I ... 11.... Iter tanks arrived while we were not on the boat
to catch it! Typical. .. soaked to the bone, and the clothes that the boys
had so carefully kept dry were wet through. The rocks soon became slippery to climb
over and our initial enthusiasm was starting to wane as complaints about blistered
Spot was still with us and seemed to know exactly where he was going as he led
us back down the hill to town. Our legs now cried out as they adjusted to the steep
decline of the hill we had climbed without realizing its angle. Mango trees lined the
side of the road and green pastures rolled down the slopes of the hill as we wound
Our way down. The views opened up to the bay below.
We were now ready for that much-needed beer as the town opened up before us,
Spot raced on ahead to th- :.1+ .:- disposal area, where we were accosted by more
animals: two more dogs, .. Ia l. ... with scarily human features, and the cutest
little kitten with a broken tail. They all started following us towards the town as
though we were the Pied Pipers. Only at the cattle grid did our mascot for the day
and his entourage turn left and cross the road onto the beach to frolic in the sand,
Now it was time to turn our attention to that well-deserved beer. But aghast! It was
still the end of the long lunch break during which the French close their businesses
until the cool I 11. .11 ... .. .1 ... I .. 11..... was open. We scoured the streets
until we final I .... I . I .. I II.... 1 1 1 ser and a place to rest our weary
? :- Our littk
II myone is looking for a free mini-adventure literally on your boat's doorstep, then
a walk up the Deshaies River is a must.
-Continued from page 6
? At the back are separate "yel-
e low pages" directories of marine
and related services in Trinidad
and in Tobago, arranged by
category; "blue pages" listings
/ r * 4 F of where to find items by trade-
e- mark; and "white pages" with
( ( & f entries listed alphabetically.
Available free at chandleries,
marinas and the YSATT office in
How You Can Lend a Hand
Tom and Harriet Linskey report:
Here s how Hands Across the
Sea is fighting low literacy in the
Caribbean: We ask school
teachers, principals, and Peace
Corps volunteers in the
Caribbean to assemble a Wish
List of books and materials they
. need and then we get what
... they need, and then we ship it
to them. This October, as part of
our Caribbean Literacy and
School Support program Hands
will ship approximately 43,000
books and 92 boxes of teaching
materials to 47 schools, 10,000
students, and eight community
Perhaps you re thinking, "This
seems like a worthy cause, but what can I do?" Here s some awesome news: we ve
just received a USS25,000 "challenge grant" commitment from two generous Hands
supporters. Which means that the way you can help children in the Caribbean right
now is to make a cash donation to Hands Across the Sea, with the aim of matching
the $25,000 grant and realizing our $50,000 goal, so Hands can fulfill all of the 2010
Wish Lists and bring positive change to thousands of Caribbean children.
To make a donation, visit wwwhandsacrossthesea.net/Donate.htm.
I.ife Membership Offer from Bequia Heritage Foundation
Any visitor to the annual Easter Regatta can feel it in their bones Bequia is all
about boats. The classy two-bowed, sprit-sailed Bequia "fishing boat", now built
more for the glory of the race than to bring fish home for the table, is descended
from the small craft carried by the whaling schooners plying the Caribbean in the
In an effort to preserve the rich history of the island s maritime culture the Bequia
Heritage Foundation is building a place to store and display some of the sea-going
vessels that helped build this tradition. A 26-foot open whaleboat, a blackfish boat,
and an ordinary Bequia dinghy are part of the collection. These vessels rely on the
natural bent limbs of the local cedar tree for ribs, and the design has a pointed
stern as well as bow, the better to cope with rough seas in the days before engines.
The original whaleboat would have found the bow-shaped stern useful in maneu-
vering around a targeted whale. To better understand the beauty of this design the
museum will show a contrasting Carib canoe made from a hollowed-out log, also a
marvel and efficient in its way, but a totally different animal.
This boat museum is being built on a remarkable lookout site above Friendship Bay,
thanks completely to the donations of many wonderful and disparate friends. The
rafters go up as you read this, but the galvanized roofing material, which ideally
should follow as quickly as possible, awaits further financing. The trustees are looking
use ralters go up ort me nequta nernage rourtuattorts new coat museum as you
read this. You can help complete the roof and becorne a life rnernber
for USS4,000 to finish the roof. Donations of all sizes are welcomed by Herman
Belmar, email@example.com, or Pat Mitchell, patmitchell@vincysurf .com.
The Bequia Heritage Foundation is offering Compass readers life membership as well
as their name inscribed on the donor plaque on donations of over USS200.
For more information call Pat Mitchell at (784) 458-3800.
In this issue of Compass we welcome new advertisers Insurance Consultants of
Grenada, on page 39; the Laurena Hotel of carriacou, on this page; Sparkle
Laundry of St. Lucia, on page 37; and De Kornah Ba of St. Lucia, Rogers Outboard
Service of St. Lucia, and PJ s Laundry Service on Grenada, all in the Market Place
section, pages 43 through 45.
Good to have you with us!
1here is a Carnacou waiting to be discovered, uncharted, unknown and unspoilt There's also the inviting Hotel Laurena, where
the rooms are spacious, comfortable and perfect for lovers, family, friends and business people. Enjoy a memorable Jerk Luncheon
at our magnificent beachfront property, savor the exotic flavors of the island's kgendary cuisine, it's all yours.
Visit www.HotelLaurena.com/vacationguide where youll find discount coupons and aFREE Vacation Planning Guide.
US Tou. FREE# 877-7554386 US# 909-547-5047 GRENADA# 473-4438759
Main photo: Drinking water and stout shoes are essential for hiking the Ingadishi Trail
Inset: The blowhole explodes
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into my third year on
Bonaire, I still haven't
hiked all the island
trails on my list. Two
ones are in "..1.... I .. Slagbaai National Park. There's a
good reason I II..- I usually hike with my dog, Sparky,
and dogs aren't allowed in the park. But it is time to move
on. The Kasikunda Climb and the Lagadishi Trail still
await me. I choose to trek the Lagadishi fixt.
Ingadishi means lizard in Papiamentu, the traditional
language of Bonaire, and this 3.7-kilometre trail lives up
to its name. T.nann= whiptails and anoles are prolific,
especially in a 1. 1.. I kilometre where the track winds
through thick cactus and scrub. PMkichis (brown-throated
parakeets) and chuchubis (tropical mockingbirds) are also
present in good n.....I - .. 11. ...1. 11. I.ail changes
from dirt and gr II ..... I ....I ... .... limestone,
Negotiating this 1. .11 ....... .1 ... .1 the trek a
solid two-hour endeavor,
There are several historic sites along this part of the
Lagadishi, The first is Pos di Undomingu Na Barbona Di
Kunuku Blanku (Undomingu's well by the cliff at White
Farm), a hand-dug well excavated by two farmers in 1898.
Peering into this deep, shadowed hole, I find it difficult to
see the bottom. I discover that all is parched. The well
went dry in 1925 during a very long drought,
There is another well along the way called Pos di
Undomingu Riba Klips (Undomingu's well on the lime-
stone). Also built in 1898, this catchment takes advantage
of water that naturally accumulates h-r 1--rin; fl-,-
goats and donkeys. It even had a roof covering the well to
provide shade for him and his animals. But in 1960 it,
too, dried up. Apparently, a newly formed crack in the
limestone allowed all the water to drain out.
Between the two wells, the Lagadishi Trail parallels "The
Ancient Wall". Hadrian, the brassy Roman ruler who com-
manded a wall be built to span the breadth of fixt cen-
tuly Great Britain, has nothing to worry about. Bonaire's
Ancient Wall stretches less than a kilometre and it is not
very ancient. The coral perimeter was first constructed in
1860 to keep herd animals contained on a plantation
called Amerika. It now serves as the eastern boundary for
the national park. Peering over the chest-high wall, I can
see a dozen high-tech wind turbines that are soon to sup-
ply 50 percent of the island's energy needs. It is a nice
contrast of old and new.
The trail soon bends to the sea and the silence of the
desolate limestone plateau is broken with a loud, intrud-
ing sound. Thwamp! Thwamp! The ominous sound comes
from one of several blowholes along this part of the coast.
As large waves smash against the shore, water is forced
up through a series of crevasses and propelled at great
speed through a hole on the surface. Looking down into
the blowhole, I see a violent churning of white foam. Then
once again, thwamp! The water shoots up five metres
above my head. Arawak Indians, Bonaire's first residents
who voyaged over from nearby South America, saw blow-
holes as powerful places. Prophets "read" the action of...
-Continuedon next page
l.,, J .,ra .. I. I J.,fs. II
Boelo: Flamiqoa t SakinaMai
What to Bring
Co~inudfrm pevius ageSunscreen, hat, hiking boots and at least one litre
...te bowhlesto redct rougts nd he tar oftheof water per person. There is no sade on thee trail.
ran seaon Thwamp! Isdhydrainoe
I~ ~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~ pres onaogte os oPly hkt (iteBac)-. I .. I .1 Il..g, pack binoculars.
where ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~~Getn ante autcson oints hera f h e
overhels hre. ave crsh nto hisfin san bechand sh ng he .I .. National Park is located on
as uchas woldlov tojum i tocoo of, reainon hethe north end I. II -;land and takes up about 17
E'i-bo un no ren B on ak nd cb Fom rlni
mangovesthe village and follow that road to the nortl I
B i l .. Oesoa d enalsine kesoen town. At the 'T', take a right and follow the green
eroed eepvaleyson he slad. s te sa lvelros, teselizard signs to the park entrance.
valeyswer filedwit sewatr. oda, tey re atual At the Park
ca rmrntsforranwae b sewaema etntess Washingt nabaa eNatann hPr kt isoper daily
birds.~8:0A The alsoP filter sediments fro stor waer wic
benfit th isans cralrees.As scn Sliia alis wth Year's Day. The admission to the park is US$10 for
my bnoclar, Icoun moe tan 00 lamigos Thy sim-adults and $5afor child en yourhgertan r 2 d pi st
moring su iscooing and my ate islow Itis imeto antdhrpi u st allbu in fo rmative mup d eseu at th
h a k tet I olef bot oa dh Taa snrok ers $1) ranceha isfrfooal to n he a i re i o
The ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ hr boto of myal Meril bootmaiv hasu seaatd Thtlmstn n ol rn
is~~~pr though stuff It ie time for reai andoy Ihr mutd t on h
Kasiund Clm isf callingelsloa suenrs na
P!n CREW VACANCIES
Main photo: lizaul (lagadishf) markers show the way
Inset: Tough on old boots!
a :, 1
Ahoy, Compass Readers! When in Grenada, pick
the Caribbean Compass at any of these location
appear in bold):
ST. GEORGE'S AREA
Grenada Yacht Club
Island Water World
o u sor rina
De Big Fish
Le Phare Bleu Marina
Prickly Bay Marina
icedIsla d arine
True Blue Bay
We eventually made our way to the lovely BVI in time for the E,
this was my fixt long trip in the Caribbean, it felt like sheer bliss ..I
to island and enjoying every day as a new adventure. Throughout this time, I was
using my debit cards to pay for fuel, food and marinas, conserving my cash as much
as possible. Please note that I did not use any ATM machines on the trip up until
this time such was my paranoia about ATM's in general prior to the trip.
However, after about four months, I had exhausted most of my cash and was
forced to withdraw some from an ATM. This occurred on St. Martin and I withdrew
a small amount of cash from one of my three accounts. Several days later, upon
arrival in Antigua, I discovered one of my debit cards was missing from my wallet. I
immediately called the bank and cancelled the card. I also checked my account on-
line, and naturally there were already several large fraudulent purchases on the
missing card. As upset as I was about having a bank card stolen, I nonetheless con-
gratulated myself that I still had two bank cards to use.
However, the flames of paranoia had once again been ignited and I began checking
my bank accounts on-line daily, or as often as I could while at sea. Thank goodness
I did! Two weeks later, a routine check on another bank account showed that new
fraudulent charges had occurred, virtually cleaning out the account which indi-
cated to me that the criminal not only knew my account number but also the exact
amount of money in that account. And yet the card was not physically stolen; I still
had it in my wallet. I 1 I .-1 .... ... 11 how could someone do this to me? How did
I become a victim of : I ..... I1. II .. I when would it end?
After canceling the second card, and after many discussions with the bank and
some on-line research, I still do not know the specific methods these computer hack-
ers used. I only know that these criminals are very clever, and once they get your
information, they can use it to make charges on your card from anywhere in the
world. In my case, many of the charges were made in Amsterdam while I was in
These hacker apparently prey on cruisers and other tourists, knowing that travel-
ers are less likely to frequently monitor their bank balance. They can apparently get
all the information they need from t ... .... 1. -l... 1. ... your bank card and tam-
per withATM machines for the PIN:......I I ..I .l.... .1 1 this has become a prob-
lem in the Caribbean. (Apparently in Antigua, someone once programmed an ATM
machine to copy all of the information from every card that was used on that
machine. Then the criminals used the card information to create new cards with the
stolen information.) I do wish someone had warned me about this before I went to
the Caribbean, but this can clearly happen anywhere in the world.
In my case, a couple of weeks went by and my third bank card was hacked into
- a perfect Trifecta for the criminal who stole my identity. I was deeply shocked,
and worse, I was suddenly without a bank card. I was also low on cash. At the time
of the third incident, I found myself on Martinique without any Euros. To make
matters worse, none of the stores on the island would accept m
100-dollar bills. I found out that there had been a problem with
100-dollar bills a couple of years ago, and many of the islands still do not accept
them. We were on anchor at Fort de France, and the only way to change my money
to Euros was to take an hour's bus ride to the airport, but I did not even have the
money to take the bus!
Consequently, we sailed to the next island, St. Lucia, because they used ECs
(Eastern Caribbean dollars) and I still had about 50 ECs left. Once in St. Lucia, I had
my parents wire money to me by Western Union. Then I attempted to open a bank
account in St. Lucia so that I could have money wired directly into my bank account.
I found out that it is not easy to open an account outside of the US. The Caribbean
banks want to know the exact source of your money and see original signed bank
references, which I assume is to curtail the use of money laundering by drug dealers.
I understand their regulations, but it was of no consolation to me as I tried to
straighten out the messy situation I found myself in.
It has now been several months since the problem began, and life is slowly return-
ing to normal. I now have a bank card from an account I set up in St. Lucia at Scotia
Bank, which has branches on many of the islands. After lengthy claim forms and
correspondence with the three US banks, I have been refunded most of the money
that was taken from my accounts. By federal law, the most you are liable for is $500
if you notify the bank immediately of the theft and complete the claim process.
However, the banks can take their time in crediting your account with the money.
Meanwhile, you are left to fend for yourself.
Hopefully, you will learn from my mistakes and take some precautions when cruis-
ing. One thing I now have on one of my accounts is insurance against identity theft
- a bargain at five dollar a month. I also check my accounts on-line daily or as
often as I can. I try not to use ATM machines if I can avoid it. I have added security
software to my computer. I avoid using public computers and make every attempt to
keep my passwords and al1vital bank information in a secure place that only I know,
not just laying around the top of my desk. I am making every effort to avoid identity
theft again, and I hope you will too. In the meantime, I still have a fear of ATM
machines and 100-dollar bills!
Nanette Eldridge and Bruno Batchhof are cruising the Caribbean aboard Geronimo,
a 42 foot custom-built, Peterson-designed ocean racer. Nanette says, "She was never
lived on until we bought the boat two years ago and believe me, there have been a
lot ofadjustments made, although I have never quite adjusted to not having much in
the way of a galley. But that is a small price to pay in order to sail amund the
Cadbbean and I feet blessed to have that privilege."
C SHINE D
00 01 D L BIL
by Nanette Eldridge
In January, my boyfriend and I set sail for our first trip to the Caribbean islands
and, in last six months, I have 1. .... I ... ... 11.....- .1 ..I al. Caribbean I had never
thought of before but that make I 11 I ..- I emple, we are currently
on the island of Grenada and today is a national holiday, Emancipation Day, which
is the day when the slaves were freed. This is a big holiday on all of the Caribbean
islands, because most of the population is descended from slaves,
Now there are other things you find out in the Caribbean that are not so interesting
to learn such as how little you can do if you have a problem with a bank in the
US when you are on a remote Caribbean island. Let me start from the beginning...
The process of preparing for an extended sail to the Caribb. ... .- ... 1....-1....
one, as any experienced cruiser will tell you. We spent months . ...... I 11. l...
and every time I turned around, it seemed there were three or four more things on
the to-do list. One of my many concerns was that I would have money while I was
overseas. I knew I could handle the sailing, but the last thing I wanted was to end
up thousands of miles away from home and penniless,
To this end, I made every effort to set up several bank cards that I could use on
the trip. In addition, having read the horror stories on identity theft, I also talked
to the branch managers before I left about the security and safety of my bank
cards. The banks all assured me that I had nothing to worry about, and that their
on-line banking systems were virtually impossible to hack into. In fact, the banks
pretty much treated my concerns like those of a raving lunatic. And naturally,
whenever someone tells me not to worry, I immediately know that's exactly the time
I need to worry!
I have always believed in hedging my bets. So I got three debit cards from three
different banks. Naturally, my logic consisted of the theory that if one card was lost
or stolen, I would still have the other two at my disposal,
Knowing we would be on some very remote islands that might not accept bank
cards, I also wanted to have some cash onboard. When I withdrew the money from
my bank, I asked the teller to give me the cash in 20-dollar bills. The teller gave me
a funny look and told me that 20s would be far too bulky, and that it would be best
to take the cash in 100-dollar bills. Oh, how I lived to regret it!
After months of preparation, we were finally off on our journey, sailing from Key
West past Cuba toward Puerto Rico, at times with brutal headwinds, but we sur-
vived. Many cruisers prefer inching their way cl .. 11.. ...1. the Bahamas, but our
boat, the Geronimo, is a two-ton ocean racer I -.... II beavy weather, and we
couldn't wait to get as far south as quickly as possible,
ailing in the Virgin Islands on our 46-foot
custom Hunter sailboat. Spidt. has always
been a source of great pleasure for my hus-
band. Tim, and me. especially during the last
week of June this year when we received a visit from
Texas family member. Our 17-year-old nephew Kypfer
and our cousin Ed had been recently certified as open-
water divers and were looking forward to some exciting
rendezvous diving. Sister and brother-in-law Kate and
Bill rounded out the group and were all warmly wel-
comed aboard at Crown Bay Marina in St. Thomas,
and I had little appetite,
We set off back to Puerto Rico and I dragged myself
from my bed to assist Tim on deck. We went by way of
Vieques for some exploration of the Bioluminescent
Bay area and spent the night in Esperanza.
Tim soon recovered from his cold but my symptoms
seemed to go on and on. I thought I wa-- l.... I.etter
when I noticed a red rash covering my I 1. ... toes
to neck! This had me worried and I checked out the
medical books, studying the different illnesses with
similar symptoms and rashes. Self-diagnosis suggest-
Palominos. a lovely island leased by a Puerto Rican
resort, we headed back to our usual dock.
Soon after being back dockside in Puerto Rico I felt
a little better. The rash was starting to fade al-n:---ith
the rest of the symptoms. I told my Puerto .
Nilda about how sick I had been and showed her the
remains of my rash. She knew exactly what I had.
Dengue fever: a nasty disease caused by a family of
viruses that are transmitted by mosquitoes.
The virus is contracted from the
that has previously bitten an infeet-
ed person. On the web. I read that
bite of an Aedes aegypti mosquito
the incubation period ranges from
three to 15 (usually five to eight)
days before symptoms appear.
Dengue starts with chills, head-
ache. pain upon moving the eyes,
and low backache. Painful aching in
the legs and joints occurs during
the first hours of illness. The tem-
perature rises quickly to as high as
104 F (40 C). with relative low
heart rate and low blood pressure.
""" The eyes become reddened. A flush-
ing or pale pink rash comes over the
face and then disappears. The
lymph nodes in the neck and groin
are often swollen.
Web articles stated that fever and
11. ....- II ...ue last for two to
I ... I ., I II I by a rapid drop
in temperature with profuse sweat-
ing. This precedes a period with
normal temperature and a sense of
wellbeing that lasts about a day. A
second rapid rise in temperature follows. A charac-
teristic rash appears along with the fever and
spreads from the extremities to cover the entire body
except the face. The palms and soles may be bright
red and swollen.
Another web source reports that most people with
dengue fever recover in about two weeks to a month by
getting plenty of rest, increasing fluid intake and tak-
ing acetaminophen (Tylenol) for fever and body aches.
Local friends mentioned that you should not take aspi-
rin or medications that contain aspirin with dengue
because it increases the risk of severe bleeding,
Information on the web agrees, stating that hospital-
ization and intensive care is required for people who
develop the life-threatening complications of dengue
Recently in San Juan. Puerto Rico s health secre-
tary. Lorenzo Gonzalez Feliciano. warned that the
island could face its worst outbreak of dengue fever
ever unless people eradicate bug-breeding areas. The
warning was issued after a 37-year-old woman from
the northern town of Hatillo died of the hemorrhagic
form of the tropical virus. Her death was the third
fatality from dengue fever this year on the island,
Besides attacking mosquito-breeding areas. officials
are urging people to sleep under mosquito nets and
wear repellent. Trucks are already being sent around
to spray a mosquito-killing mist and residents are
being urged to report neighbors who leave stagnant
water on their property.
MedicineNet.com reports that the a
mosquito is a daytime biter with peak
around sunrise and sunset. It may bite at any time of
the day and is often hidden inside buildings. espe-
eially in urban areas. There is currently no vaccine
available for dengue fever,
The internet is a great source of information on den-
gue. however, it is highly recommended that anyone
who believes they may have contracted the virus
should check with a doctor as soon as possible.
Whether I contracted dengue in Puerto Rico or the US
or British Virgin Islands remains a mystery, as we tray-
eled through each of these areas immediately prior to my
illness and the incubation period is fairly wide ranging,
I am feeling much better now: the rash has disap-
pearecl I I I. ..1, .110ther symptoms. It s amazing
how g, I I 1- 1 I I well again!
Angela Cordis and lier husband, Em, law aboad
Spirit, their Hunter 46, in the Virgin Islands.
'_1 '- L -(. ,7' -,
Prior to the familY visit we had been dockside in
southeastern Puerto Rico. where we generally spend
the hot summer months. We sailed back to St. Thomas
with a few days to spare before the family arrived,
The next morning we set out for Jost van Dyke to
visit the world-famous Foxys, the Soggy Dollar Bar
and Sydneys Peace & Love. Skies were grey with light
rain but the fair-skinned, heavily sunscreen-coated
familY member didn t mind one bit,
Early the next morning we headed for Norman
Island. After a lively sail in squally conditions we
picked up a mooring and rendezvoused with the high-
ly recommended dive company. Sail Caribbean Divers,
Both Ed and Kypfer enjoyed their dive and everyone
was impressed with the dive company. Later we
explored the local restaurant Pirates, then took a din-
ghy ride over to the caves where we discovered some
treasure before returning to Spirit for dinner aboard.
The next morning had us sailing off to Cooper Island
where our budding divers had another rendezvous
with the dive company. The guys found the diving
most enjoyable and were able to squeeze in an extra
dive on the RF-r th- n-- t m-rnin I st-r -- e sailed to
Bellamy Cay 0.. I I I- I ... II 11. 1..11 ... .. party and
enjoyed the delicious buffet ashore. The flame throw-
ers and Moko Jumbie acts were a pleasure to watch as
Aragorn s fireballs lit up the sky. Next day we visited
the Baths on Virgin Gorda and everyone oni-od their
trek through the age-old boulders, the ...1.1..1 warm
waters and golden sand,
Soon it was time to turn around and head back
towards the US Virgin Islands the family only had
one week to sail with us before heading back to the
States. Sounds like an idyllic time aboard. right?
Pat -larin the last couple of days of the family visit
I as if I had a very bad cold. Sore throat,
aches and pains together with coughing and general
weakness soon had me 7. 1.... I my bed at the earli-
est opportunity. It took I I: before Tim caught
my cold and he did not appear to suffer quite as
Back in St. Thomas we were sad to say goodbye to
the family. Tim ferried them and their bags ashore and
saw them safely on their planes back to Texas,
Meanwhile my cold seemed to be morphing into a
nasty flu-like virus. I had terrible headaches (normally
I am not subject to headaches at all): a tr-n: pain
behind my eyes, which had me taking li II .-
plus cold medicine to help me sleep. I also had pain in
mV neck, shoulders and back so bad I took Motrin to
t to ease it. My joints ached and that together with
the head. eyes, neck, shoulders and backache had me
mostly sta ng in bed. Glands in my neck were swollen
Abotw: Pretty Palominos Island in the Spanish Virgins
left: Before the bout Em, Kate, Kypfer, Angela,
Bill and Ed
Top right: The author uril again. ,
Below: Spirit sailing in the Virgin Islands
ed a toss-up between scarlet fever and chicken pox.
The next day we visited Punta Arenas and then
.1- -1 -;--n 1 ---hich turned out to be a most uncom-
: .1 .1 1 ... 1. .. for the :.n1.1 This did not help my
:. .. .1 1 1.... I misery. II another overnight at
by Anelordts lC ei ee
and lives in the shadows. But a friend, not a foe. In my experience, Winston is a
hundred percent. Don't know lan well enough to say, he's kind of a phantom."
Sarah's heart races.
It is a lovely row back... until she hears Tom's voice roaring from around the last
point. Her morning of peace and quiet is over. But what a morning it has been!
Tom is Captain Bligh. He's made his own breakfast! And ship's work isn't getting
done! Sarah offers to leave, so he can find better crew.
That evening at The End of the Beach, Irene of Jezebel shows up. She is one of very
few who can hold their own with Tom. Bar soon invokes the hundred-metre rule on
both of them, and they take their bottles beyond the pile of rocks on the beach.
"So, Sarah," Bar says now that they can talk, "how is life aboard the Enterprise?"
"Gonna jump ship?"
"Got a place to go?"
"Ever sleep on the beach?"
"Helps ifyou're drunk sand flies. There's a better place up in the rocks," he
indicates the pile that The End of the Beach leans into.
Back aboard, before passing out, Tom orders that she is not to take the dinghy in
In the morning she is marveling at the peacefulness of her surroundings with Tom
asleep 1 1. .. I .. ... a by,
"Care I '" she asks, "I'm taking some stuff in to Bar."
"She ain't going nowhere!" Tom roars from the companionway,
"Crew always gets Sunday off in port, Swift!" Peggy shouts back. "You know that!"
"She's restricted to the ship!"
"Give me a minute," Sarah responds, and ducks below to get her stuff,
"You leave now, you're though on the Enterprise!"
"Sounds good to me," Sarah answers as she climbs over the rail.
Peggy pulls hard to
HAVE YOU SEE THIS MAN escape the following
Notice that everybody
seems to row on
Shekima Creek. In part,
that is because there
are no cam on the island
no gasoline. We have
also not heard any ring
tones or Windows start-
up tunes. Great Iguana
is entirely off the grid
until its hundred-odd
politically or economi-
cally important enough
to warrant an undersea
cable. Only radio and
satellite work here, and
much of that is blocked
by the crater walls tow-
ering over the Creek.
ing VHF net! The accept-
ed ambiance is that no
bl yacht has to listen to
II another Shekima
Creek isn't for everyone.
1 That is why Enterphse
and Jezebel are alone,
quarantined as it were,
m Reach Bay, and on
opposite sides, at that,
441.8 Sarah is enchanted. Not
p just by the beauty and
SA *4% / has found her way into
by Jim Hutchinson
Sarah quickly does her morning chores, then calls down to Tom, who is sleeping it
off, about using the dinghy. He grumbles something and rolls over.
The quarter hour row to
Mtus takes an hour. Sarah
Shekima 2 is okay with the rowing and
n Creek E getting better; it is the expe-
9 rience that slows her, alone
in a small boat, in a bright
1.. tropical morning with a
gentle breeze, in the still-
ness of a mangrove creek,
Only during a blackout has
.. mal she heard such quiet, but
that was sterile. Here there
is the occasional squawk of
a heron, or thrashing flight
I of a pigeon, and a nearly
perceptible rustle of breeze
through the leaves. High in
the sky from a speck soar-
g over the walls of rock
towering above Shekima
Creek's north shore, comes a single "peep". Sarah ships her oars when a tropical
mockingbird starts, and drifts until it is finished. "Messing about in boats." The line
comes to her from childhood, along with a vague memory of a Sea Rat mesmerizing
a Water Rat
Mtus is only the second yacht Sarah has ever been aboard, after the Enterprise
- what a contrast! Samantha keeps a beautiful home below, but the cockpit, under
a big shade, is the living room. There they spend the morning talking, and Sarah
samples Samantha's laissez-fair interpretation of Shekima Creek society,
Samantha expands on names Bar mentioned, adds a few, then, as an afterthought,
mentions lan, who is a loner even by Creek standards. Hard to tell if he's here or gone,
tucks his boat into remote corner of the Creek when here. Seldom aboard, "lives in
the trees". She and Peggy met him while rowing the many creeks of Shekima Creek.
"In the trees?"
"Spends his time climbing around the crater or crawling through the mangroves,
Has a jungle hammock for nights. Maybe the name of his boat says it Go Mad."
Sarah's cup slips from her hand. "Oh!" she exclaims as her drink spreads on the
deck and Samantha reaches for a rag.
Bill's Blog had called Sailorman's boat Gonads. In the recording, Voices From the
Bush, one of Sailorman's friends said a name that sounded like Nomad Sarah wants
to shout, "Is Ian between 5'8 1/2" and 5'11" tall, 153 to 178 pounds, and 43 to 57
years old? Is he Aquarius or Pisces?" That is Sailorman's computer model. "Is he
clean shaven and a pipe smoker?" That from an artist's rendering of Sailorman's
encounter with the pirates. Does his boat fit its computer model?
"Uh, you say he comes and goes, might I have seen his boat at guiaquiav"
"Possible. Its a J/30..." seeing Sarah's blank look, "a 30-foot go-faster sloop."
Jackpot! Sarah is numb.
"You okay? Touch of heat exhaustion? Time for a swim anyway,
Diving into tropical waters from a yacht is to be experienced, not described. Its as
much of the mind as of the body.
Refreshed and back aboard, Sarah asks, "If lan doesn't stay on his boat, do you
suppose he might rent it for a few days?"
"Pretty rough aboard Enterprise? I'll ask Gollum if lan's here, and where. But I
think not. Your best safe house is Mtus."
"Sorry slip. Winston. Kind of a local version of lan, only no boat. Great guy,
fairly shy. He and Ian are friends. 'Gollum' because he's short, skinny, and dark,
SeTfood internarlore milarl
Sohnson Madware LA
ad A FOR YOUR MARINE HARDWARE, AND MORE
-Continued from previous page
She would be showing symptoms of cyber-withdray .1 I 11. I al..... -1.
would seek on-line is being found in Shekima Creek. : I .- -, ..I .... .. 1. I .... .
Creek liken it to legendary Shangri-La, Brigadoon, or Bali Hai. Sarah's sense is more
like Wendy in Never Never Land, where she hopes to meet Peter Pan,
Peggy hands over the stuff she packed back from Hard Bargain. Then Sarah's new
freedom is discussed. Bar mentions the nest up in the rocks behind The End of the
"Oh, that's nice," .. -... 1. 'Sam and I have stayed there. And Intus can
put you up for a wh I ....1.1 II ... about Go Mad." Bar gives her a strange look.
"Think lan may be a problem?" Peggy asks.
"Ian and a woman? He comes and goes. Maybe he has a girl in every port, and
comes here to recover. Maybe he's a monk. Or hangs out with the guys on Wident
Could be Jack the Ripper. I know less about lan than anyone on the Creek."
This brings more thrills to Sarah. Secrecy is Sailorman's trademark. Apparently
even Bar doesn't know. And Sarah, doubtless the web's leading expert on Sailorman,
must not breath a hint of what she knows.
Peggy lets Sarah row back to Intus. Nearly two weeks into her adventure, she is
beginning to be in shape, and is eagerly learning the lifestyle that she presumes normal
to yachting her entire experience so far being the Enterphse and Shekima Creek.
Same...II. . . I -1. ...- I .. 1. .... breakfast at the edge of the mangroves,
eating I II I1. I 1 .... I > ask about lan and whether he 11
lan would meet them at his boat if they brought lunch, a Sunday outing,
too, of course. Winston said he could find lan, but couldn't guess the answer. They
could take a chance. Samantha has everything prepared.
They have a swim. As they dress, Peggy comments on Sarah's cute bikini.
Samantha comments on her beautiful wrap. Neither is quite sure what to say when
Sarah adds a touch of makeup.
It is an excellent session of messing about in boats. Peggy expertly rows them
through a maze of basins and creeks, some so narrow that she sculls with an oar in
the transom notch. Seeing Sarah's interest, Peggy shows her how.
Winston is known to come out of the trees for an occasional meal in good company.
Ian is not. Yet both are aboard Go Mad when they find her.
Sarah's heart races as Ian invites them aboard. Ian nicely matches the robust end
of Sailorman's computer model, plus her favorite artists interpretation, which shows
him clean-shaven. If he smokes a pipe, that will clinch it.
"Glad we could tempt you with a feast," Peggy says. "All Sam's work, of coume.
Ought to be delicious!"
"I came out of curiosity," Ian replies. "Is that why you're here?"
"Got a friend in need, thought you might like to help," Peggy answers as Samantha
and Sarah lay out the fare. "Plus, I haven't seen you for quite a while. How you been?
You're looking good." Sarah thinks so too. In troll. I .. . ... ..I I .1riosity
- even with lan living in the trees, she doesn't tl....I 1. II .... .. .I. I .... on his
boat. And so it goes, though all pleasantly said. Go Mad, lan insists, has to be ready
when he goes mad. Sarah clearly undemtands a hero is always on call. Sarah
fancies that lan is trying not to stare at her too much,
Relaxed and fed, the talk wanders to m-ner---- -r----11ne which is useful to sailors
fo- Wine b~1ts in for a storm. But for Is... ... I ...-1 .. .. .sa way of travel.
...- I .. the expert," Ian explains. "Says I'm too clumsy, always scaring the
birds. That's how he finds me.
"Its an interesting environment, Sarah," Peggy says, "want to see? But we move
slow. These monkeys travel at a rate of knots, we mortals do furlongs per fortnight.
Slow and easy but don't stop on ant trails! May we, lan?"
As Ian pulls the bow into the mangroves, Winston springs from the rail and disap-
pears into the trees. Peggy climbs into the trees, slow, careful, but competent. Sarah
follows carefully, but steps too low on a root, where it is wet. Her leg slips down into
the oysters. Ian sees it happen, grabs her, lifts her aboard, and quickly inspects the
.n=h in her calf. He clamps it with his hand to slow the bleeding. "I'm not a
1. says. "The wound is deep. It must be cleaned and stitched. It will hurt
like hell. Do you want me to do it?"
Sarah is both angry with herself and scared it is a serious wound. "Yes,"
Ian quickly carries her aft and below, puts her on the bunk, and goes to work.
Samantha comforts, Sarah resists 1. ...... ...t as best she can. By the time lan
is finished, the pain pills are takir.. 11 1 I .. intently watching, says, "You've
done this before." Ian nods.
Then the decision, what next. The island has a clinic and a nurse; the doctor
makes a monthly visit on the mail boat. Infection is lan's concern. He starts her on
antibiotics and wants to keep an eye on her for several days. A dinghy trip back to
Intus is possible, but not advised she can stay aboard Go Mad. Samantha
decides to stay with her. Peggy goes for what they'll need from Intus. Winston
Ian, all business until now, sits down beside Sarah, takes her hand, and looks long
into her eyes. "Sorry about the pain," he says softly. Her smile is weak, but her heart
Thus begins the story of lan and Sarah. Because of Sailorman's extreme secrecy
and Sarah's resolve to honor it, it will be some time before she confirms whether Ian
is, in fact, the superhero she sought. By then, it won't matter.
Inft Winston eating oysters
Belowu: lan pulls the bow, into the mangroves
Chain & Rope
Anchors & Fenders
Lubricants & Oils
Flares & Life Jackets
Sanding Paper & Discs
Hand & Power Tools
Houseware & Cookware
Y ARIES (21 Mar 20 Apr)
8 TAURUS (21 Apr 21 May)
Concentrate on everything but romance, which covers
your hull with barnacles and at the end of the month will
head you toward the rocks
GEMINI (22 May 21 Jun)
and verbal acumen are fro- fl 1 Use
putes wit/ shipito furth lat 1 ook ro s-
been encouraged to attempt
CANCER 0 (22 Jun 23 Jul) whl be
0 LEO (24 Jul5 23 Ae )ra bumpy ride
in there; the tide
VIRGO (24 Aug 23 Sep)
This month is aspect free a month off, so to speak.
from the tribulations of boat11fe!
LIBRA (24 Sep 23 Oct)
This will be a good month for any intellectual pursuits
or 1pl e eit eass your boating life. You will make
A SCORPIO (24 Oct 22 Nov)
Its still love and lust aboard the "love boat" and a
reprieve from day-to-day frustrations.
f SAGITTARIUS (23 Nov 21 Dec)
You will have an -- -- --is.- ... 1.th. Plan a party for
Halloween and invite 11 ... 1.= .. I in the harbor to a
8 CAPRICORN (22 Dec 20 Jan)
You too should have a stress-free month. Give yourself,
and others, a break from the usual shipboard pressures
you put on yourself and have fun!
= AgUARIUS (21 Jan 19 Feb)
Creativity will be under full sall. Make new cruising
..1 1 1 .. fresh opportunities that are offered
PISCES (20 Feb 20 Mar)
Life w1111ead you on a romantic course in the first week.
Take the helm and navigate for love.
**Even though I can swim fast, can stay
under water for a long time and come
equipped with sonar, this is a lot more
fun. Thanks for letting me take it for
a ride. "
What calls me to go back to sea?
What force tugs so relentlessly in my subconscious mind?
When others seem content to be
At homeat peace and happily can face the daily grind?
I like my home, I really do
But look on it as one of few harbors where I may rest,
Before the ocean calls again,
To tell me I cannot remainthen tugs me east or west.
It's not to say that when I go
The sea is well behaved, oh no! Or does what is predicted.
The weather prophets have their say
On what shall be on a named day, but then they are restricted.
When Poseidon asserts his rule
Those prophets start to look like fools and waves are wild or worse.
When vomit rises in my throat
And I ask why am I afloat? And hear the skipper curse!
Is it perhaps those magic nights
With calm, dark sea and gentle lights from myriad stars?
Looking as if they fell somehow,
To rest within the ocean nowVenus and Mars,
Once it seemed the stars flew down,
Making a strange and hissing sound, a meteor shower
A night that was so full of wonder,
No storms to tear the peace asunder, God's awesome power
There was another night of calm
With nothing to provoke alarmwhen tides were slack
A moonlit Boca came in view,
Obligingly it pulled us through.A'Welcome back!'
Quite suddenly the air was changed,
As if the Heavens had arranged the welcoming chill
And then intoxicating scent
From long-abandoned gardens lent an added thrill.
The sea for all its breadth and length
Its challenge, pleasures, boredom, strength, will call to me
Till in some storm, a wild, mad shocker
I'll end in Davy Jones's locker, and there I'll be
Perhaps then angels, kind and good
Will tell me that maybe I should have come above,
And take me there way, way up high,
Persuading me it's time to try, God's Peace and Love!
ADO WATCHDOG GOL F
P Y B E R T H G K R B R I O L
RSRAG HOI CEOEGOE
I GEE YA W LETUD Y GT
SNAO VADBD TNAENc
L I DCLAOREUL RRI H
AL FEMTLN I CT I SAE
N D R A A U A S O F A Y R T R
DEUN 8 NTULCTAEPH
OE ICTAHI T I F GEAC
CST I ERWINEA Y NCN
TOMUREPONY F S I TA
OO I A Y TNUOBEH TAN
RERUTNEVDAS I UE L
Bonny clung to Aunty in terror but the old
lady was stubborn and she shouted. "No big
night. 11 1.. ... II burning!"
You can imagine how vexed the villagers
were to find themselves in the dark and
they at once blamed Aunty Sewell. They
got together with their lanterns and toreh-
lights and marched to the old woman s
cottage to demand that she repent and go
to church on All Souls morning like every-
one else and to stop lighting candles like
an ignorant heathen.
The villagers arrived outside Aunty
Swells door as the old lady was relighting
the candles. But before they could do any-
thing, the lost soul called upon other lost
souls and they flew down upon Aunty
Swells cottage pushing aside the villagers
like demons. Everyone too tt i 1s r lis 3haeirdli rl
ing all ove terrible creatures and
t s Aeu
all pray that she will repent and return to the church where we will
veA 1 y tehw le re 2 ?eT still keeps her candles burning on All
tBon aTe IPM1h so11jigMhl Souls morning and
by Lee KesseR
C ibab ama s1 11 geA atth ee 1 a len foarse oncae1rnountm1
Now Aunty had her little niece Bonny living with her and no matter
e; ma d e n
Well one year a lost soul decided to put an end to all this and blew out
ahed 111e liAmmemt uoera ay r emba wn emweutes os
at and for the second time Aunt d Bonny relit them. B now the ITt
with 1...11 ... I . ..11 ..td .
at the same time shutting 11 II. 1..1.1- ... 11. village. leaving everyone
including Aunty and Bonny in the pitch blackness.
Who brought breadfruit to the Caribbean? Captain Bligh, of Bounty fame!
Word Search Puzzle solution on page 34
life, causing untold resentment towards the oblivious tourist. The clueless white
to the idea that he has a real Jamaican friend while behind his back his
1" is plotting his demise. Winkler does not take sides and gives the tourist the
benefit of good intentions, while the poor tortured Jamaican contemplates the ulti-
mate evil after years of hidden resentment,
Since seeing the film of The Lunatic two decades ago, I have yet to read Winkler's
original novel, and I look forward to reading that and his other novels some day: The
Painted Canoe, He Great Yacht Race, Going Home to Teach, and The Duppy. The title
story of this collection, 'The Annihilation of Fish', was filmed in 1999 starring James
B. ... ... 1.....- I .. ..II. .. ...II has made a living freelance writing in the USA
and by writing academic texts, but his ear is finely tuned to Jamaica's patois, spirit,
peculiar manners, and dark humor.
His book is available at bookstores
or from www.macmillan calibbean.com.
ff ,f /',"'
by Elaine ORivierre
Unscramble the letters below to find a sea creature whose favourite food is
seagrass. What is it?
Of all the hard-shelled marine turtles, this is the largest. It averages 440
pounds (200kg) when fully grown although the 1.1-:-.t one on record weighed
over 800 pounds (395 kg). II .. I 1 ..gth I .1 ..I 3 to 5 feet (1.5 metres).
1 This is the Green turtle i. ? .. ..... I I so called because the fat under its
shell is greenish in colour. Baby turtles do eat small marine creatures such as
crabs and jellyfish, but when they grow they turn to marine vegetation. The
adult Green turtle is the only turtle that is a herbivore, feeding only on seagrass
How can you tell the difference between a Green turtle and a hawksbill, for
example? We'll make a list,
I The Green turtle's shell (carapace) is smooth and usually light brown in
colour. The sections of a turtle shell are called scutes and the Green turtle has
five approximately hexagonal scutes down the centre of the shell from neck to
tail vertebrael scutes). The hawksbill shell is darker in colour and has overlap-
ping vertebrae scutes,
The underside of the turtle is called the plastron. A hawksbill's plastron is a
darker yellow than a Green turtle's.
The hawksbill has a narrow head with a hooked beak and two paim of pre-
frontal scales in front of its eyes. The Green turtle has a roundish head with no
beak and only one pair of prefrontal scales.
The Green turtle has one claw on each front flipper: the hawksbill has two.
Green turtles migrate long distances between feeding grounds and nesting 1
sites. Every two or three years, females come ashore on sandy beaches and dig
out pits with their strong flippers. Each lays 100 to 200 eggs. The eggs hatch
around 40 to 80 days later and the baby turtles head for the water. Predator
like gulls and crabs snatch them up before they reach the water so its a very
dangerous journey for the 1. .1 1.1.... Some scientists think that juvenile turtles
then spend the next four 1. .. in the deep ocean before they come back
to the seagrass meadows near the shore,
Although Green turtles are on most e.. I .... I 1.-1- .0 is still legal to catch
and eat them during open season in th I ...I .. I al. Caribbean. However,
it's important to protect them in the closed season, not only for the turtles but
also : 11. ... - 11. .. ending activities of the turtles help to maintain the
BOOK REVIEW BY BOB BERLINGHOF
RT RC Of S 18 8
1me O TU blS
The Annihilation of Fish and Other Stories, by Anthony C. Winkler, Macmillan
Caribbean Writers, @2004, 166 pages. ISBN 1 4050 2639 1
Author Anthony Winkler has written 20 stories in this slim paperback which will
amuse and delight the reader. This is the fixt book I have seen of his in print since
I saw the film version of his earlier novel, The Innatic quite possibly the funniest
film ever produced in the West Indies. Though these stories fall short of that master-
piece, there are quite a few that stay with the reader due to Winkler's vivid, often
wacky character, who live in a sublime world of their own. The stories encompass
Jamaicans from all walks of life, from the poorest "Butus" to prosperous .
living in the USA. Winkler offers us the superstitions, dreams, fears, and I .1
his characters for the reader to savor, at times employing magic realism to make us
wonder about the bubbles we inhabit.
The opening story is a romp about a "tourist" couple who turn out to be aliens, and
the bewildered junior constable who has written a detailed Preliminary Report of the
bizarre incidents he witnesses. After being struck by a truck and coming back to life,
the male "tourist" leads a lively theological discussion with the incredulous crowd
that has gathered to gawk at the dead man, resulting in their burning a nearby
church. There are several levels of satire working here, as the clueless policeman is
both witty observer and comic foil.
The next selection, 'The Story of the Fifth Boy, is a sobering tragedy that unfolds
in th ... ... I 11. . .. ... I ..11.1..1 ... I.- regionss and shattered innocence.
Itis:. I al. ..I .-11..1 -1 I ..1 1 I .. 11. I I mostserious.'Unconventionality'
is a hilarious examination of one couple's religious faith when their Catholic priest
takes a dim view of their harmless bedtime habit, and A Sign of the Times' is an ode
to the hypocrisy of middle class Jamaicans.
There are stories of men 1. -. .11 al.... ith the Devil ('The Annihilation of
Fish'), of writing letters to a ... I I -1. l.... L poor tomato thief dead. Woman
is consumed by the idea that her bottom is too fat, and in another story a wealthy
... the States is haunted by the idea of an a-neine Ag coming after
Days of Dog Eat Dog' is an .Tn11=int st<. I I .- privilege, and
ra of socialism, and its title I I the good old days when a
wealthy man could bribe officials with no problem. The corruption doesn't change,
only its nature.
One of my favorite stories, called 'New Banana', examines in exquisite detail the
mixed feelings and misunderstandings between a repeat tourist (who feels he's hip-
per than other tourists) and a local waiter over their 20-something-year relationship.
The central irony is that the white man's unique nickname fe- hi -11nvaiter, 'New
Banana, is picked up by the older staff, and it follows the ..I I 11. rest of his
FREE CRUISING GUIDES
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ing. If you know how far apart you are and at what angles you see something you
can 'complete the triangle' and calculate how far away it is. This is how we first
measured the distances to nearby things such as the moon, sun, and planets.
Coming soon... in 2012... the Transit of venus!
An inferior conjunction is not a grammar term but rather the geometry of a planet
passing between the Earth and the sun. For example, new moon happens when the
moon is in inferior conjunction. Due to the relative tilts of the orbits of the Earth and
Venus, we typically see Venus either below or above the sun at inferior conjunction
October 19th at 18:45 hours: Moon, Jupiter and two northbound
Iridium satellites, as will be seen fmm Grenada
(below on the 28th). But sometimes, just as with solar eclipses, the Earth, Venus and
sun truly line up and you can see Venus move across the face of the sun over the coume
of several hours but not this year and not this conjunction. The next one happens
in 2012, but I'll mention here the weirdness of the pattern. A transit of Venus occurs
in an overall pattern that repeats every 243 years. Paim of transit occur separated by
.us on either side of 121 and 105 yeam. We had the first of the
I. next one is 2012 but after that it won't be until 2117! As for
the 2012 (June 5th 6th) transit, you'll need to be around Hawaii or Alaska to see it in
its entirety. Since we mainly travel by sailboat I thought I'd mention it now!
Historically, transit of Venus have had great importance in establishing a measur-
ing stick for the solar system with people around the globe marking the start of the
transit from their location. Via that triangulation method I mentioned above, accu-
rate distances to the sun and Venus could be established. The 1769 transit was
observed by Captain Cook in Tahiti and there is still a Point Venus on that island.
Excellent observations of this transit were also made by Mason and Dixon at the
Cape of Good Hope. Yes, these are the same guys who surveyed the early US and
established the Mason-Dixon line so Union and Confederate soldiers could accu-
rately fight a civil war 100 years later.
To Contemplate While Having a Glass of Wine on Deck
Since Hubble's observation of receding galaxies in the 1920s we have put together
a solid model of an expanding universe that began with the Big Bang 13.7 billion
years ago. Our basic physics would tell us that, since gravity is only an attractive
force, the -----line ralaries should be slowing down due to their mutual attraction.
Observatic..- 1. ... I *- however contradict this basic idea. Now we are pretty darn
sure that the galaxies are indeed moving away from each other and that they are also
accelerating! There is currently no known force for such acceleration and the name
Dark Energy (okay, that should be a comic book!) has been given to it. Experiments
are underway to search for the source of this Dark Energy. Maybe if they find it and
bottle it we can use it on our solar panels at night? Pass the wine!
Got a question for "Captain Science"? E mail Scott at email@example.com.
Scott Welty is the author of The Why Book of Sailing, Burfoni Books, @2007.
VC-oVUe-s are enu masslD I(Un UIClr2CmIII moLVler seetowrrses
Special treat on the 19th! If you can spot Jupiter and the moon at 1845 hours you
should also notice two satellites b 1.... .. .11. 11. .. . ..r of the Iridium satel-
lites. The upper one may go behi I l..t .1 .1 .. I .. .. ..- Grenada (see Figure
2, which shows the view from Grenada). Ifyou're up r. .. ..1.... she upper satellite
will pass between the moon and Jupiter. They tray li .-1 I1. 11 come up in the
southeast around 1840 hours and be off far to the north by 1850 hours! The fact
that the apparent position of these guys depends on where you are is simple survey-
by Scott Welty
The Planets in October
MERCURY Too close to the sun all month
VENUS Setting along with Mars at about 1900 hours early in the month, and
then earlier and earlier. Not visible later in the month as it heads toward inferior
conjunction on the 28th.
EARTH Has not returned my calls.
MARS Setting at about 1900 hours all month.
JUPITER Up in the east after sunset. Yep, it's 11, 1 .. 1.1 one!
SATURN Rising in the early morning between --- -- ... I 0600 hours all month
Sky Events This Month
7th New Moon
9th Venus, Mam and crescent moon set together at about 1830 houm (see Figure 1)
19th Jupiter right under the big gibbous moon, plus satellites! (see below)
21st peak of Orionids meteor shower. Meteors will appear to be emanating from
near the constellation Orion. At this peak time you may see between 20 and 40
meteors (shooting stars) per hour.
22nd Full Moon
28th Venus inferior conjunction (see below)
Guides that just
W keep getting
Soak bulgur (or oats) in a bowl with the cold water
for a half hour. Drain and mix grain with chopped
onions. If substituting cooked rice. just mix with
chopped onions. Add parsley and mint. Mix lemon
juice, oil. salt and pepper, then add to grain-parsley
mixture. Add chopped tomatoes and chill for at least
an hour before serving on a bed of lettuce. Sewes six.
1 medium onion, chopped
4 Cups chicken stock or vegetable bouillon
salt and spice to taste
1/2 Cup chopped pamley
Combine all ingredients except salt. spices and pars-
ley in 1 .u . ... 11 .... . 1 .1 I er the cooking
heat e.. I -....... I ... 1. ... -1.. ... .11 and spices to
taste. Puree if desired. Just before sewing add the
Parsley Fish Cakes
2 Cups mashed potatoes
1 ounce butter, melted
salt and spices to taste
1/2 pound skinned salmon fillet
1/2 pound skinned kingfish or earite fillet
1 medium onion, chopped
1/4 Cup chopped pamley
1/4 Cup chopped chives
1 egg. beaten
1/4 Cup biscuit (cracker : "rm,-i-") or bread crumbs
2 Tablespoons canola 0.1 I
Mix mashed potatoes with butter, salt and spices.
Cover the bottom of a medium fry pan with a half-inch
of water and poach the fish fillets until just tender and
then flake the fish apart with a fork,
In a suitable bowl mix the fish and potatoes togeth-
er with the onion, parsley and chives. Roll mixture
into balls and then flatten with a spatula. Place beat-
en egg in one small bowl and biscuit/bread crumbs in
another. Dip cakes first in the egg and then coat with
Heat the oil in a skillet and fry the cakes until crisp.
Drain on paper and serve with tartar sauce or your
Simple Parsley Rice
2 Cups boiling water
2 Cups rice (prefer brown rice)
salt and spice to taste
1/4 Cup chopped pamley
2 whole chives, chopped
Using a large pot. bring water to a boil, and then add
rice and spices. Seal pot with foil. reduce heat, and
simmer until rice is cooked. Stir in parsley and chives
Parsley Cookies for the Puppies
Does your pooch have bad breath? These treats
3 Cups chopped parsley
1/4 Cup chopped carrots
2 Tablespoon.. --;-t.1-1- -il
3 Cups flour I 1. I wheat)
1/4 Cup wheat bran
3 Tablespoons baking powder
1/2 Cup of water (more water may be necessary to
get the correct consistency)
Mix parsley. carrots, flour. bran and baking powder
with a half Cup of water. Mix and knead. Add more
water if mixture feels too dry. Roll dough into half-inch
thick logs. Cut the log= 1- 1111. to the size of your
dog. A big dog should II ... ... 1. pieces while small
pompeks get only one-inch pieces. Bake pieces on a
cookie sheet at 350 F for 30 minutes. This should
make three dozen dog biscuits. Cool and store in a
You see bottles of "green seasoning" for sale in mar-
kets and shops throughout the islands. It sa pureed
mixture of fresh herbs used for marinating fish. poul-
try and meat, and seasoning dishes such as soups
My homemade green seasoning depends on parsley,
Parsley is a familiar, bright green plant with a vibrant
taste and fresh aroma. Even though parsley unique
taste makes it a well-known seasoning, it maV also be
used as a medicinal herb. Originating along the
Mediterranean Sea. parsley has been cultivated for
over two millennia. Ancient Greeks considered parsley
to be a sacred gift from their gods. The queen of the
Greek gods. Juno. grazed her homes in fields of pars-
ley to keep them high-spirited. During the Middle
Ages, the French popularized pamley its a kitchen
herb. Parsley was introduced 1 T ...1 ... 1 ... the 1500s
and brought to the Americas .
The Cafibbean isla., b ;1----- th- t--ro most common
types of parsley, the ...I I ... I .1 I and the flat. We
love the sharp smell and almost sweet taste of the flat-
In manV restaurants, sprigs of curly parsley accom-
pany the dinner entree as a garnish. Don t push it
aside enjoy eating it, as it is not only tasty and
cures bad breath, it is also very healthy. Two table-
spoons of parsley contain about three calories with
anti-oxidants such as vitamin C. beta-carotene and
folk acid. These antioxidants fight manV diseases
such as arthritis. asthma. diabetes, colon cancer.
heart attacks and strokes. Two tablespoons of pamley
contain more than the recommended daily dose of
Vitamin K. By weight. parsley contains more than
twice as much vitamin C as orange juice. Parsley also
has a good amount of potassium.
To make a parsley tonic, steep a quarter cup of
fresh parsley in two cups of hot water for two hours,
Then pass through a sieve. Drink before meals.
Parsleys supply of vitamin A benefits skin tone and
its vitamin E fights wrinkles. Parsley fortifies the
immune sVstem, and benefits liver, spleen, digestive
and endocrine organs,
Pamley is a natural diuretic and can be used by
women to alleviate irregular menstrual cycles. Parsley
eaten raw or as tea may ease the bloating that occum
during menstruation. Chewing parsley will help with
bad breath from food odors such as garlic or onions. A
tea made from parsley will stimulate as much as a cup
of coffee. but watch out as parsley has been reported
to be an aphrodisiac! A poultice of its leaves can be
used for insect bites or stings.
Happy in a small container, parsley is a great cock-
pit or galley plant to be used fresh in dishes or as a
ai=h It in not difficult to grow from II....- yet
in to sprout directly from see 1- .1 the
dirt until it is fine. Carefully plant the seeds every
two inches. Carefully cover with about a half-inch of
dirt. Water carefully so as not to wash away the
seeds. Patience and constant watering is necessary
as parsley seeds germinate so slowly it is said.
Parsley goes to Hell and back again nine times
before it comes up".
Pamley is fragile, so wash it carefully in a colander
or by swishing it in a bowl of water. Parsley makes an
excellent addition to soups. salads and baking. To
obtain the maximum food value from parsley it should
be eaten raw. Heat from cooking .. 11 reduces the
vitamin content and the taste. :1 tre including
parsley in cooked recipes, use the flat-leaf type and
add it towards the end so it will retain most of its fla-
vor. color and food value,
Shirley's All Natural Green Seasoning
1 to 2 bunches of fresh parsley
1 entire head of garlic peel the individual cloves
10 to 20 chadon bene leaves cilantroo may be used
Place all ingredients in blender and process until
liquefied, adding a small amount of liquid e.g. lime
juice. vinegar or water as needed. Salt. pepper.
chives, onions, thyme, basil. etcetera maV be added to
your taste. Bottle and refrigerate.
3/4 Cup wheat bulgur (oats or cooked rice can also
2 Cups cold water
1/2 Cup chopped onions
2 Cups chopped fresh parsley
1/4 Cup chopped fresh mint leaves
1/4 Cup olive oil
2 Tablespoons lemon juice
salt and pepper to taste
2 medium ripe tomatoes, chopped
Ne Way S t
MUTINY ON THE BOUNTY
Read in Next Month's Compass:
Cruising the Eastern Caribbean with Your Dog
Re-Think Leeward St. Vincent
Side-Tied Through the Panama Canal
.. mid more!
The eloquent June article by Ruth Lund exactly spoke
to this. In Trinidad, if you make the effort to connect
with islanders, you really can. You can hike with
island Hashers, sit in upscale jazz venues, explore art
galleries near St. James, and enjoy the spontaneous
town-wide street party that the Port of Spain shopping
district becomes starting about 2:00PM on Fridays,
You can take courses in engine repair and mainte-
nance, or learn to play pan. You can go to the Saturday
fresh market regularly and develop your favorite set of
vendorswhoyouactuallymakea --int -f .--in::-- 1
bye to when you depart the islanel I ..I .. .. Ia l. -
things is available to someone who will not "venture
into town unless it is to one of the modern shopping
malls." And the canard that foreign women are victims
of verbal harassment is despicable you have the
wrong culture, Mr. Llewellyn. I have long found it
amusing to watch men watch women and throughout
the entire West Indies, :n-la-ling o'rini-1.1, I have
found the eye control and .. l..I I ... ... of males
around all women to be quite n=t .... 11n:
Finally, I find it I...I ......-.... 11. I .11 .. ... ., 1.-
of outrage about ....-.... I .1.1. in Trinidad, you
write concluding 7-r-:r Th= about excellent and
affordable medical < .. 1.. .. 11 and helpful" people,
good WiFi, yacht supplies, and available contractors in
the boatyards. Precisely,
You are right about two things: Trinis really do trash
their waters such a pity and the fishermen do
drive 1. .. .. ... 11.. ...1. the harbor in a dangerous
way, 1. .- ... I 11. last one: a competent coast
guard. Some day....
S/V Tashtego (vessel name proudly included)
Donald Stollmeyer, owner of Power Boats boatyard
in Chaguaramas and founding member of YSATT, has
now been given two opportunities to reply to letters in
the Readers' Forum. In both of these, rather than
address the concerns raised, he has resorted to deri-
sion and questioned the veracity of the writers,
Had Mr. -1 11... 1.. I 11. I I 1 1 ....11 -.
stand after 1..- 1.. -1 I I II I .1 I
hear them anyway over the noise of the support ele-
ments of the oil industry that invade the anchorage 24
hours a day,
My -riginal r-f r-n-- to the Customs dock was that
it was 1.1 ....1.. .. II ". Go alongside at low tide with
a speeding fishing boat going by and you will know
what I am talking about. Yet Mr. Stollmeyer wrote, "I
have tied up to the Customs dock day and night and I
have never had a problem." He must be lucky. My
observation has been adequately supported by Mr.
Minks' more colorful description, "steel-and-concrete
boat demolition dock".
I will not even qualify Mr. Stollmeyer's challenge
about "islands of rubbish". Maybe while he and Ruth
are out looking for howler monkeys they can pause by
the shore and watch them float past. They shouldn't
have to wait too long, especially after heavy rain when
the storm drains-cum-sewem-cum-refuse dumps are
It was interesting to note that Mr. Stollmeyer's reply
to Mr. l...I I 11 I ....- al .. Ia l..- 1.me, placed
under I. -.....1... 1 1 I I ... I .. I 1..11 ofYSATT.
After his reply to my letter, it would be understandable
if YSATT removed that privilege. When people have to
resort to personal attacks to try and defend their argu-
ments you know you are hitting home. Maybe it is time
for some of the other more progressive businessmen
and contractors who are genuinely concerned with the
ailing yacht industry, and hopefully the yachting com-
munity in Trinidad, to take up the reins.
There is a 1.11
because of 1.
(The Bay, Issue 12), or just the fallout from the eco-
nomic slowdown, the people whose livelihood relies on
the yacht industry are rightfully concerned. Before a
remedy can be found, those at the helm must first
recognize and accept that there are problems. For an
historical perspective of how long customers to T&T
have been ignored, have a look at the sidebar reports
for T&T on noonsite.com. Chaguaramas is, at present,
an un-policed, dirty, noisy, polluted, commercial port
made uncomfortable and dangerous by uncontrolled
speeding boats. Un-policed and dangerous can be
I find the July issue [Readers' Forum] attack on
Trinidad written by Mr. Llewellyn so unbalanced that
I have to write this letter of partial rebuttal. Yes, Mr.
Llewellyn, Chaguaramas has changed since you were
there in 2000. The government made a decision, based
on sensible economics, to give priority to its value as
a deep-water commercial port primarily serving the
petroleum industry. And yes, that presents a chal-
lenge to the Trinidad yachting industry, which has
spent the last decade building up the finest and most
professional yards and services in the Caribbean
south of St. Martin,
That is why all concerned parties, business owners,
... lad cruicore on 1 the now., 7-wrormnont
II. Yacht - - .I. .. I l..... I I
& Tobago (YSATT) and are actively addressing a num-
ber of important issues, in-la lin: the urgent one of
developing new mooring 1. I 1- ... I anchorages for
yachts in the larger Chaguaramas basin. It is true:
right now you should only anchor or moor in
Chaguaramas Bay if you like the bustle and noise of
an active commercial port that runs 24 hours a day,
seven days a week. I actually do but understand that
many cruisers would not; it certainly isn't what cruis-
ing magazines feature. However, your letter failed to
mention that existing ri, ,, ,, ,,,, .. marinas still offer
quiet waters and clea I .1.1. ...d the T&T Sailing
Association, on the east side of Hart s Cut, does a
heroic job of providing a quiet anchorage and moor-
ings, WiFi and shoreside amenities for visiting cruisers
while also trying to serve their own membership.
I look forward to the day when additional mooring
and marina facilities are built around Point Gourde,
currently an under-utilized resource, with free
shuttle bus service to the many yachting businesses
There is no question that the December 2009 piracy
event between Trinidad and Grenada was serious and
is having a negative impact on Trinidad yachting. That
aside, I left Trinidad in April of this year and am sur-
prised to hear about the thefts you describe. During
the entire. ..1.1 ... ..11.- I 1.... Our departure, there
had been a II .. l....I. 11. 11 reported on the net
and that dinghy had not been locked with cable.
Seemed like par for the coume in any harbor.
Much more importantly I wish to rebutyour sugges-
tion that cruisers and foreign visitors are in personal
danger in Trinidad. I spent 14 of the past 24 months
in Trinidad and in that entire time, the only crime
experienced by a cruiser was a ur.- ....t-hin: that
occurred in Port of Spain near li I p. .. It is
true that the crime level in Trinidad is very high but it
is entirely directed toward Trinidadians, and mostly
among people known to each other. I freely traveled all
around Port of Spain by myself, using maxi-taxis and
on foot. I dressed as I saw Trinidadian women of my
age (middle) dress except not nearly so stylishly -
and I travelled only in daylight houm. And of course I
didn't go into Laventille and nighttime excursions were
mostly with Jesse James' transportation service or
with a private car and other people. I frequently
walked at night between TTSA and Peake's, usually
with one or two other people but occasionally alone,
when family fishing groups were still around. And I
listened to many, many visiting yachties say they were
afraid to even leave their boatyards in Chaguaramas.
Apparently your wife and her friends are among that
group. All I can say is that people bring their own
... to these islands. I see
who live in gated com-
munities in the US and who equate poverty, especially
dark-skinned poverty, with ghetto crime. And many of
the West Indies islands, for whom tourism is the pri-
maly or only industry, work hard to create what I call
a "yachtie bubble" that cruisers can remain inside,
enjoying their idea of the Caribbean,
The glory of Trinidad is that THERE IS NO BUBBLE.
ms insun.s ano accepted ene fact enaL someone oacxec
into a corner feels the need to "shoot the messenger".
However, in the August issue he once more chose to
attack the messengers rather than to address the seri-
ous issues raised. His continued attacks against my
motives and veracity need to be called to order,
Re: no-wake signs: Mr. Stollmeyer wrote, "The no-
wake sign was removed when a building in its location
was removed many years ago; it was not stolen." Here
is a quote from Gina Hatt, who runs the YSATT office
in Chaguaramas, to a suggestion I made regarding
-. ...... f 'No Wake' signs: "Well, at one time there
II .1.... buoys with the signs etc. just as you
... .. 1 1 ut they were stolen. :-)" (Facebook
. .. 1..... 1. I for Cruising Sailors' Discussion. No
Re: howler monkeys: Mr. Stollmeyer wrote, "I have
been working in Chaguaramas harbor since 1981 and
have never seen a howler monkey." Ruth Lund wrote
in the June Compass, "The added bonus is that this
boating centre is rightin the middle of the Chaguaramas
Development Authority's land... Sitting in my cock-
pit... the tropical forest, filled with a startling variety of
birds, howler monkeys and butterflies... just a stone's
Howler monkeys or no howler monkeys, you couldn't
nxeu, one rest, wen,
I quote you the rules I have to abide by while using
the CrewsInn Marina facilities: "Owners are to
observe No Wake rules when operating their dinghies
within the Marina. International Rule of the Road
and the Laws of Trinidad and Tobago must be
observed and complied with by all Vessels operating
within, wr- chin: -r departing the Marina." Why
then do 1. I ..I II 1. Road' not apply to all those,
Trinis and cruisers equally, operating within the
The good ship "Trinidad" has been heading off
course for a while, perhaps it is now time for new blood
to relieve the helm and get her back on course,
Boat Name Withheld
PS A quick word to address the comments Chris
Doyle made about my letter of July. Let me assure
Chris that there is no anti-foul on my 1 - and the
reference to women being harassed a I .. beyond
'pssst. Viewed through his 'rose colored' glasses, he is
correct in saying that what he saw was "the same old
Trinidad". The matter I have raised have been here for
a long time. Polaroid glasses will allow you to look
deeper, Chris, and not just see what is on the surface.
Montinuedon next page
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-Continued from previous page
I have b .. . 1.... .th absolute amusement, the
"Trinidad .-1..... I 11 as well as those in defense
of the island that have been printed in your magazine,
This is much better than any television soap opera and
I cannot wait for the next issue of Compass to read the
continuing saga.... Will Donald Stollmeyer respond to
the best that they can to make life easier for cruisers?
Will Immigration ever stop being so discourteous and
rude? Tune in to the next issue, when....
It really is quite amusing to see how much interest
and time is being taken to point out the "bad" in
Chaguaramas Bay. But as we all know quite well, no
one ever points ou- th- :-- 1 If something good hap-
pens, you tell one .. 11 something bad happens,
you tell ten,
As an employee at one of the establishments in the bay,
I both agree and disagree with what is being written,
While we would like our three square miles of yacht-
ing industry to be perfect (yes, the entire yachting sec-
tor is located in this area), the sector is still a very
young one and getting everything in line for this indus-
tly will take time. There are some things that are
upfront unacceptable, like rude and obnoxious
Immigration and Customs officers, overcharging by
contractor, etcetera, and there are some things that
are unacceptable to us locals as well: things such as
cruise who sail to the island and don't check in until
it is convenient for them; or cruisers who ask for work
to be done, sign contracts and then refuse to pay the
final price or sail out without paying.
The gist of the letters on the bashing side is that the
bay is dirty, nothing has -Mn:-< -- er the yeam, no
one cares and no one is .... 11 yes the bay is
dirty. The :.1+ .: that floats in comes from the rivem
up in the I I
ously appear and disappear. The local fishermen do
not know what a no wake zone is. There is a lot more.
But what a lot of cruisers don't see and are not privy
to either, is the amount of work that YSATT, the
Chaguaramas Business Group and the Yachting
Steering Committee are doing to satisfy all the com-
plaints of the visiting cruise. Meetings upon meet-
ings are taking place with Coast Guard, government
ministers and relevant authorities to see how they can
I don't think that overnight everything will change,
but it will eventually. This new government seems to
be standing up and taking notice,
But there is one entity i. 1............- Bay that
gets bashed day in and day .. 1. ... .11 -. I -a and that
is YSATT. Every day both cruisers and contractors
alike complain that YSATT isn't doing anything for
them or that YSATT should do this and should do that,
- go to YSATT. Not happy with your contractor go
to YSATT. You want to see some of Trinidad and don't
know where to go go to YSATT. Looking for a dentist
- go to YSATT. Need to get your mail from home and
don't know where to send it go to YSATT. Need to
just freaking vent your frustrations go to YSATT,
.. and Customs looking for a yacht they
1 1 This organization takes it all. They hear
everything from cruisers and contractors but the one
thing they never or hardly ever hear is that they are
doing a good job. Is there a place in any of the other
islands where a cruiser can go to complain and receive
a smile in return? This is a not-for-profit organization
that bends over backwards to help cruisers and they
don't charge a thing. They don't get donations either.
No funding from government. Nothing. How they sur-
vive baffles me,
So, in essence I agree with Frank Virgintino, the
author of the Letter of the Month in your September
2010 issue. If you would like to go cruising, don't come
to Chaguaramas. There is no blue water and white
sandy beaches. Instead, we have excellent storage
facilities, brilliant contractor, culture and food that
really blows the mind. We have excellent health ser-
vices and most of all we have the people, people who
love people and who love to have a good time with food
and a good "lime".
The yachting sector is trying really hard to change
the wrongs to rights; however, what they cannot and
will never change are attitudes. As we say in Trini if
you give it, you will get it.
I was glad to read Neil Ladell's report on the new
Sandy Island/Oyster Bed Marine Protected Area in the
August 2010 issue of Compass, and would like to
share with readers a bit more from the interview he
conducted with me while preparing his report:
NL: What do you think about the decision to protect
CD: In principle the idea of protection is always
good. The devil is in the details. In the case of the
Tobago Cays, speeding boats :as 1 insumin: langer-
n eth vee e on so there was a pr e lats
need for action. Since the park became active there
has been significant improvement. In the case of
Sandy Island and the a ner---- swamp there is no
obvious problem, so wk 1. .. Obviously it is much
better to start protection before there is a problem, but
we should not create restrictions for no good reason.
For example, in this park, making th- nrea sur-
-andin: andy Island and ov I II -1 .. a non-
:.-1..... .. will give fish and conch a place where
they can thrive and thus help populate areas where
fishing is still allowed. There is hard science from
other parks to back this up. On the other hand, to ban
people from diving unless they go with a dive shop
seems to have no purpose based on evidence. The
Wreck of the Rhone Marine Park (BVI), the most
famous dive site in the Caribbean, encourages people
to dive on their own, as does the Bonaire Marine Park,
one of the best-run marine parks in the Caribbean,
where the majority of diving is done that way.
Furthermore, in many places where independent div-
ing is banned, such as Saba, the number of yachtspeo-
ple going with dive shops actually drops. Why? Well,
suppose I dive off my boat on the fringing reef at
Sandy Island. I have a delightful experience that
whets my appetite for more, but the other dive sites
are harder to get to. So I call up a dive shop and book
some dives. If independent diving is banned it is likely
I will just enjoy the beach.
P- mal-in:- n-hts use m--rin:= T ould like to see
a ..1.1. -1.. I done < 1 a l. .1 I where yachts
anchor, then introduce moorings and record the
changes; let's find out if we are really <-in: =-mething
worthwhile. In some cases moorings I 1..... I help.
For example free moorings in Anse de Colombier, St.
Barth's led to the recovery of seagrass beds in the
anchoring area, and now you can swim with turtles
right off your boat.
NL: Do you think this protected status will be
more attractive for people visiting by yachts? Why or
CD: Evely time you restrict an activity you discour-
age it. If you make people use moorings and charge
them for it, you are going to chase away at least some
of them. In addition, yachtspeople put their boats at
risk if the moorings are not good enough. Marine
parks generally don't have insurance, and in our
Caribbean parks quite a few moorings with yachts on
them hav- :-n- adrift,
I find I. I I that yachts will not be allowed to
anchor in L'Esterre, and neither will m--rin 1 put
in the near future, to be negative. : I 1.1- go
here anyway, but those that do spend money in the
nearby restaurants and help the local community. I
understand there is an algae problem in this area, but
this clearly has nothing to do with yachts. The idea
that they should be banned because they ... 1.. r
ther contribute to the problem is typical I
thinking with no evidentiary basis that is biased
against the yachting community. The way to deal with
a problem like this is take water samples, find the
point sources (usually land-based) and fix them.
The benefits of making the area a park are more long
term. If the area shows a significant increase in under-
sea life, and becomes a place people have to see
because the snorkeling is so good, it may bring more
people in, but the improvement would have to be as
dramatic as, say, the turtle pool in the Tobago Cays,
NL: Is 11. ... 11..... .. wanted to add/suggest?
CD: I .... ... I . I I parks based on science,
However: .1 I ... parks on dogma, we are
creating a system that is not necessarily for the
good of the environment or the public, but consists
of one set of individuals making decisions about
what they think is right for everybody. Clearly this
can breed resentment.
There is one way to fix this. Anytime a park decides
to bring in a new restriction, they should provide clear
evidence for the need of it. If there is no evidence, then
the measure should be brought in provisionally for a
test period. If it is not shown to provide a clear benefit
it should be removed.
It would also be very helpful in parks that affect
yachting, if some yachtspeople were included in the
decision-making. Having input from marine trades
associations that are connected with yachting is really
not the same thing,
DearCe]mpLa 11's arti-1- in th- ^--:--.t issue Chris
Doyle, on record as 2 -1. ... -... . I I regional con-
servation efforts, expressed skepticism about some
aspects of the SIOBMPA- but did Neil's article address
the "important concerns that deserve clarification"?
As Neil states, the biggest threat to Sandy Island is
nature. Lenny was a hurricane, not a tourist, and I am
a little unsure how SIOBMPA will help. It has been
fascinating to watch Sandy Island evolve over the
years without influence from mankind,
The mangroves are as healthy today as they were
ten years ago, a recent inspection revealed, despite
the reclaiming of land for the stalled marina project
in Tyrrel Bay. -Continued on next page
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The Food Fair has it all and a lot more
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-1 . -
-Continued from previous page
The biggest threat to them would appear to be
development of the land side: the loss of the salt
ponds into which the sediment and detritus settle
from the surrounding hillside during the rainy
season. Sediment chokes mangrove roots and they
die. The ponds, however, do not appear to be part
Current water-based use seems to damage nothing,
Future use will damage only your pocket as you pay
the user fee. Sorry Chris, your half hour of tranquility
now comes at a price,
"Its for the environment" claim the range as they
collect the mooring fees. Well, actually, its not.
Grenada's Marine Parks need half a million dollars a
year to operate and the tourist user must pay.
Re: .. I. ..... Fill no longer be permitted." We are
all at .. I a l. surveys showing that cruising
yachtspeople spend more per day than cruise ship
passenger. These dollars go directly into the local
economy that competes against other island destina-
tions. Effort has been expended in recent yeam to
make Tyrrel Bay more attractive to cruising yachts,
bringing more income and jobs to the community. This
is now at risk, the traditional anchorage on the north
side of Tyrrel Bay, sheltered from northerly swells, is
1 Cruisers will leave; the local econ-
Why the ...-h-rin 1 mi 0 The nearby Tobago Cays
Marine Parl li ... .....- I those that desire them;
the rest can anchor. The inevitable impression that the
SIOBMPAmoorings are placed only to generate income
will not encourage visitors. No one disagrees with the
need for moorings in sensitive areas, dive sites and
reefs, but is there an argument in favour of banning
anchoring on white sand?
structure that taxes tourist visitors in
I itself seems a strange way of achieving
conservation and fisheries management", the stated
aim of SIOBMPA and the Ministry of Agriculture,
Forestry and Fisheries. The need for "revitalization of
the fish population" is surely the result of over-fishing,
and I agree that the banning of fish pots within the
Park is a step in the right direction.
With the "Visitor Tax" (Grenadians continue to
use their Sandy Island and mangroves without
cost), comes the risk of reduced visitor numbers
resulting in lower revenues for tourist-related busi-
ness at a particularly difficult economic time and
also a loss to Government in the form of lower
cruising permit revenue-
Does the apparently healthy MP area actually need
"long term revitalization" or just fisheries control,
which should be quite straightforward within an
area under the jurisdiction of the Grenada Port
Few are critical of conservation efforts where
required, but are we not looking at over-regulation
(Re: article about the creation of the Sandy Island/Oyster
Bed Marine Prot--t- 1 r- i., th- ^--:--.t issue] What a
wonderful idea, at I I I ... ..... I .. II Carriacou.
Unfortunately in today's political climate no one dare
sound remotely negative about "green" or conservation
initiatives to save the planet, the reefs of Carriacou or
any other reefs for that matter, Pr--,. i. :-- 1 --...-r
ovation is essential. Such is the ... ... I ..- .
tion groups that any negative logic or comment is either
ignored or dismissed as being non-eco-friendly,
Despite his unassailable moral position, Neil Ladell
in his article "A Long Time C ......." seems to fall into
all the usual traps lying in ..1 1 those determined
to avoid or distort the real facts in order to further the
case for an argument that is beyond argument: We all
agree about conservation. In this case we [yachtsmen
of the Caribbean, only once alluded to in the article as
boatedm") strongly resent the platitudinous, patroniz-
ing, psycho-babble beloved of impenetrable NGOs,
pen= gassing-= 1111 -th-r self-elected organizations
f ... 1 1 ... ..... .. -1 I benefit, particularly when
used to obfuscate,
Havingreadof the 15years -f t-il in---1--in:"research,
planning and community ..-..Il ... .. "a dream
come true" for dive operator Max and "100-percent
positive feedback" (whatever all this means) it was no
surprise that Mr. Ladell was surprised by a note of
skepticism from someone. This someone obviously
prompted Mr. Ladell's memory and he concedes that,
having spoken to Chris Doyle, there exist "important
concerns that deserve clarification, particularly those
that may limit boating activities". Aha! Limiting of
boating activities. Could that mean yachtsmen?
At this point Mr. Ladell decides that rather than
enumerate these important concerns it would be more
illuminating for us mortals for him to launch into a
tedious, possibly spurious history of the SIOMBPA,
the "decisions behind the decision to protect" and its
further plans to "trial a series of plans for which feed-
back will be welcomed" and point out that only three
yeam ago were "human intervention measures for con-
servation needed". Oh, and by the way, no anchoring
except in emergencies. Could this mean yachtsmen?
And, we may ask, why are they doing all this for us?
Well, its "to promote safety at sea, particularly for swim-
ming, snorkeling and scuba diving" (not yachtsmen).
Please, let's be honest and cut the waffle! Not once
in a 750-word article did Mr. Ladell give any hint as
to how the SIOBMPA is to be funded. It's not conser-
vation that yachtsmen object to, or
financially to the cause, it is power in I
So what are SIOBMPAs plans to raise funds for the
future buoys in Tyrell Bay, buoys in east coast
anchorages? How will these plans be tripled in order to
get our welcomed feedback? Or are we to await anoth-
er fait accompli?
Unfortunately, it can be construed from Mr. Ladell's
reluctance to mention mooring charges, that it is only
by installing mooring buoys (with their doubtful ben-
efit to the environment), prohibiting anchoring, and
therefore fr 1117 rn==1n: nahtsmen to pay for their
use, that -l- *I II ... ..- funds. In that case, the
yachtsmen of the Caribbean are indeed subsidizing
the organization, the local dive industry, and all the
vested interests of the co-management board of
SIOBMPA including the "private associations", who-
ever they are. Not to mention the reefs. Perhaps we
should have more say.
Save the Planet.
Yacht Tropical Dream
Editor's Note: We asked Davon Baker, Chairman of
the SIOBMPA bount, for a response to Chris Inng's let
reply, below, is in response to Chris Inng's letter, but
addresses points raised in both.
The Sandy Island reef system and the Oyster Bed,
which this MPA is commissioned to protect, fall within
the sovereign territory of Grenada. The MPA cannot
happen without 11. I ..... ... .. Ir the Government of
Grenada. The -l- *I II .- .. I >me ad hoc, fly-by
:...1.1 . ... ... .. 1 1 .... to make money, as seems to
1 II. ... ... .. 1.. I I it is not even the first prior-
ity of the MPA to generate funds. Instead, we are, first
and foremost, interested in protecting our natural
3.-rit .;- ... 1 E- -ources for many generations ahead.
11. -l**I II board is comprised of many stake-
local Fisheries officer. The letter writer, Chris I
already knows that our MPA came into being .11
many years of preparations, which included much
interaction with stakeholders. The writer, however,
has already concluded that we are an unaccountable
bunch. This I find to be a rather reckless and irrespon-
At the same time, it seems that the writer is mostly
frustrated with Neil Ladell's article. Mr. Ladell, how-
ever, is not a member of our organization. He was,
instead, an intern with one of our stakeholder bodies,
the Sustainable Grenadines Project. The information
presented in the article was not vetted by our board
prior to submission for publication, and as such the
information is Mr. Ladell's opinion, and not that of the
"T^F' TP ... ... .; ... ..1 In fact, many local stakehold-
- - 1-** l* *- **-1* I II and water taxi operator) are
equally frustrated that the article did not adequately
represent their part in the process of establishing the
SIOBMPA. As such, the rash judgmental approach of
the letter writer may be easily excused.
However, I must say that I have discussed issues
raised here with the President of the Marine and
Yachting Association of Grenada, and it seems that
they do not support the attitude nor share the extreme
views of the writer. The question, therefore, of whom
does he/she speak when mention is made of "yachts-
men of the Caribbean"? What is his/her authority to
speak on behalf of such a group?
The bottom line is our organization is a young one,
and our initiatives impact persons of various back-
grounds, and not justyachters. It is a national organiza-
tion, with tremendous support from the local people,
including fisher whose livelihood and activities within
the area are also curtailed. We have many items to
revisit and new ones to give considerations to. While we
do not -, --t 01 t- 1 in --....1-t- ner--... ..t it 1=
highly:.. -i .
as this writer and othem have been doing. Our protected
area is small, and there remains open access to all other
areas around Carriacou. The idea of an MPAwith fees is
by no means new in the region, or even in the world,
Our board pledges to work with all affected groups,
but our first aim would remain the protection of our
precious resources. We welcome Compass readers'
comments, queries and observations; however, we do
expect that your complaints should be reasonable. I
am quite sure that anyone who is informed about the
natural history of Sandy Island and the Oyster Bed,
and who has a genuine passion for conservation,
would find it easy to share our vision to protect and
preserve these natural, cultural heritages of ours,
-Continuedon next page
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-Continued from previous page
Thanks, Compass, : .11 .... ..- the opportunity to
respond. Thank you .1- I .. l.... us in getting the
word out on the work I al. ... I 1sland/Oyster Bed
MPA. We will submit, for your next issue, a follow-up
to Neil's piece.
SIOBMA Management Board Chairman &
Representative of the
Permanent Secretary's Office
Ministry of Carriacou & Petite Martinique Affairs
Frank Pearce shared his humor and smarts by let-
ting us all aboard Samadhi for his misadventure in the
mid-Atlantic_ ..I .1 ........ ... I informative, thanks for
"Cobbler's Bo< 1- ... 11. .....- I Compass.
Crewing on Samadhi in the Saturday race of Julys
Carriacou Regatta Festival, 15 minutes after the start
we watched from slightly downwind as starboard
Sanctus barreled into Ginko, who was in irons trying to
get back onto starboard tack. The T-boning crunched
her hull, exploded aft starboard lifelines and sent a
Ginko remember flying. Gasping, seized in terror
from my front-row seat amidships on Samadhi, I
watched as moments passed. We continued galloping
along on port tack in 20 knots. The commotion died
down, boats stayed afloat, crewmembem were okay,
and gentle and soft-spoken Frank said, "I guess that
puts us in first."
Here's to that sailor, gentleman, scholar. Way to go,
Frank, on all fronts!
Ellen Ebert Birrell
S/V Boldly Go
Regarding Ruth and John Martin's letter in Augusts
Compass praising the east coast of Martinique and
Jerome Nouel's guide to the area, I could not agree
more. The east coast of Martinique is my wife Trich's
favorite cruising ground.
Despite wh2.1 ...... ..1 I . I ...ll. - sy to
the contrary, ..l.... I1. .- I .-1 I I ..l.... ,.. .-.not
that difficult. Since most of the harbor lie on an east-
west axis, it means you should not try to leave harbor
before about 1030, and you should be entering the
next harbor by 1500 at the latest. This means a lei-
surely breakfast and possibly a quick swim before
owine and you are in the next harbor with plenty of
I an afternoon swim before sundowners and
The first foreign yacht to sail the east coast of
Martinique was Iolaire, in September 1964. The crew
was myself, my late wife, Marilyn, our two-year-old
daughter Dory, a very small semi-working engine, and
Merde, our bi-lingual schipperke. I have cruised here
numerous times since,
The east coast of Martinique has been adequately
covered in all my guides; the latest Martinique to
Trinidad guide is available at all Island Water World
stores, Johnson's marine hardware in St. Lucia, and
I ..-t in n.-- :ni 1- fl. .t if you really want to explore
... p. especially if you draw less
than six feet, be sure to find a copy of Jerome Nouel's
guide. This guide was originally financed by Philipe
Lachnez Heude. Philipe lives on the east coast of
Martinique where he keeps his Carib 41. He states he
NEVER visits the west or south coast of Martinique as
the east coast is so much better.
More yachts should investigate the east coast
I read with interest Keith Bowen's article "Whats on
My Mind: A Deadly Combination" in the September
issue of Compass.
When I launched my catamaran in 2001 I bought a
WASI anchoring system from Echo Marine in Trinidad
that I suspect is identical to the one discussed in this
article. However, I only have 50 feet of chain so all the
chain is out every time I anchor and the contact to the
boat is via rope. So far the system looks and seems
fine, and I anchor all the time,
Prior to that, I had a Carib 41, which came with 12
feet of cheap Taiwanese stainless chain that was on
the anchor end of the rope. The chain dated from 1969
and some 30 years later, when I sold the boat in 2000,
it seemed in excellent condition,
Keith is quite right in having heard of a lot of failures
on these systems. However, I am not at all sure about
his conclusion. My own observation is that every time
there is a failure with stainless chain it is being used
as all chain connected from the sea to the boat via the
windlass. I ... .. 1 ...spect the reason for the chain's
failure is ... I .... of electrolysis, which would
explain why it took a few years to fail.
I would love to hear from others who have used
stainless chain as I do, in a chain-and-rope combina-
tion with no metallic contact to the boat. If anyone has
had a failure I would love to hear about it. There is no
question stainless chain has proved unreliable as a
complete anchor rode solution. It might still be an
excellent solution in a chain-and-rope combination,
However, my limited experience with two bits of chain
is not enough from which to draw conclusions.
A good lesson for all: Some months ago at Union
Island, a man took our dinghy and outboard from a
guarded and designated area, despite the guard's
attempt to stop him. The thief later returned the din-
ghy and outboard destroyed.
A report was made at the local police station. This
I .. ... I 11. ...1. I 11 cruisers and local
1... .......- .1.1 ..... .. I ..- 1 1 1 the matter go".
We waited for notification of our court date and, after
receiving same, appeared along with the guard (a wit-
ness) and the alleged thief. Sergeant Francis expertly
presented the case and a guilty verdict was handed
down by the Honorable Magistrate. The thief was
The lesson? Do not be afraid to report crimes the
police ARE here to "Protect and Serve". Thank-you to
Sergeant Francis of the Royal St. Vincent & the
Grenadines Police Force,
Thomas and Diana Olson
I'm sure we have all had great fun looking for birth-
day or Christmas presents while living in the Caribbean,
and sometimes being a bit, lets say, let down with
what we may or may not have found.
My husband and I decided to buy a joint present this
year, and decided we really needed a new pressure
cooker, so we set off in search of the right size. Finding
what we wanted we returned to the boat with high
expectations of that nights meal,
Having washed the cooker, I tried in vain to get the
lid to fit. My husband inspected it and found that the
handle on the lid had been screwed on upside down,
The problem was soon rectified and I was set to cook,
The new cooker was different from my very old
cooker, so I felt I should read the instructions which
sent us both into uncontrollable laughter. I believe it
was the best present we have given to each other in
years, and I still giggle when I reach for the cooker,
almost one year later,
The spelling and grammar are as they appear in
1) the cam interlocking mechanism makes sure that
this unit is safely. used in allaccessions.
2) this unit is not effected by the bangles.
3) the pulling-don style valve is used. It is reliable
4) the pressure condi valve and block proofcover is n/
made in either form of the tow using styles. That is,
additional cover style and automatic block proof style/
How to use
sketch. map ofhandeldnst allapton,
When in use for firs time. Apply some edible oic on the
cook cog for lubrication
Put in food: when cooking easely-swollen food.not
exceed V2 ofcapacity.
Steam comes out cover with pressure control vakye,
turn down the fre to exhaust at uneven intemal.
After cooking take out the sealing washer, clean the
blockproof vakye. Exhaust pipe and jioat adve.
Don tt try to open the lid strongly befor jioat valve falls
if jioat valve gets stuck, press lightly with CHORSTTCK.
If steam comes out greatly from pring safety valve
greately. Remove cooker.
Clean exhaust pipe. Block proot cover.put shaft of
ping of safely valve to correct position.
The service life of the product is eight years.
Dear Compass Readers,
We want to hear from YOU!
Please include your name, boat name or shoreside
address, and a way we can contact you (preferably by
e-mail) (clarification is required,
We do not publish individual consumer complaints or
individuat regatta results complaints. (Kudos are okay!)
We do not publish anonymous letters; however, your
name may be withheld from pdat at your request.
Litters may be edited for length, clarity and jair play.
Send your letters to:
Compass Publishing IAd.
St. Vincent & the Grenadines
Adm ral Ma
-3 - --
Im a dog. A smart one at that, but I cant figure out why two equally beautiful
countries such as St. Lucia and St. Vincent & the Grenadines can be so far apart,
Only 24 nautical miles separate these two jewels of the Caribbean. Ive had the plea-
sure of visiting both this summer. Dog. oh dog. what a difference,
My crew and I cavalierly arrived at Rodney Bay. St. Lucia late one afternoon, plan-
ning to visit for a few days. Themselves had not given much thought to my clearance
in St. Lucia. At Customs. my crew were welcomed by a very polite officer named
Marlon. Marlon informed my debonair crew that I needed to be "imported" with a
permit should I want off of my yacht! Marlon, on his own initiative, immediately
telepheno 1 the 7-or-mnont veterinarian. An appointment was set to meet my crew
at the ( ..-1 ...- II. 11. next day at 9:00Alvi. The veterinarian needed to make sure
my papers were in order and do a physical examination.
At the appointed time, a neat looking fellow (with great hair!). introduced himself.
Chris (spelled gris) quickly found the necessary documents for the application
form. which my lackadaisical crew had failed to send to the ministry. In the mean-
time, back on my yacht. I was eagerly waiting for Chris (spelled gris) visit to check
Dear Compass... Dang, it's tough to type with paws forget using the Blackbeny!
How do you spell quarantine'? Okay, I've typed the letter... spell check...
Now, liow's the WiH signal?
Dooh! The way he looked at me, touched me, made me feel special! He was sweet-
talking too. However it was close to 9:00A1VI and I hadn t been ashore for almost 20
hours. I needed to go! Chris (spelled gris) left my yacht promising clearance (and
relief) before noon. My importation permit would be issued. Customs would be noti-
fied. I would be free to conduct my business on shore. The importation permit would
be delivered the next day to the Customs office.
Had my delinquent crew applied for the importation permit and faxed all the par-
ticulars to the Ministry beforehand, the permit would have been printed and deliv-
ered to us at the time of examination. Since we had no working phone. Chris (spelled
gris) said he would phone the marina office to inform me the clearance was issued,
Thank you. Chris (spelled gris). Thank you. Marlon,
Chris (spelled gris) said that he knew I wasnt a threat to the island agriculture.
But. he added that agriculture is extremely important to the island economy. St.
Lucia could not afford the cost of remedial action should an outbreak of disease
occur. Consequently, the policy is one of due diligence when a non-human arrives.
He also mentioned he regretted that some visiting yachtsmen expose the island to
this low, but extremely dangerous risk. He added that his colleagues and himself
make a point of facilitating pet entry. Total cost: EC$43. My crew did it wrong. St.
Lucia made it right,
I stayed a whole month. What an island,
I ordered my crew chiefs to do it right next time! St. Vincent (Bequia) here
Twenty-four miles awaV. similar historically, both former British colonies, both
independent since 1979. Piece of meat, huh?
It was impossible to get the application form on the internet. The humans had to
e-mail ........11. .111.- 1. 1.....1 ... to request the application. The e-mail reply
was se1.1 1 .I. ... ... I .. I ... -mail address of "yahoo.ca". After several calls
the application requirements arrived. Once filled out, the application must be faxed
to the Animal Health and Production Division. Ministry -f ^;s-i---1t--1-- and Fisheries.
St. Vincent & the Grenadines: (784) 457-1688. It does .... I II. .I and efficient,
However. BIG problems. St. Vincent promotes archaic. colonial pet-importation
regulations. No matter the bloodwork (i.e. FAVN-OIE titre test). health certificates, or
my sweet disposition. I could enter directly into St. Vincent only if I were exported
from one of 12 named countries. Othenvise I would have to be quarantined in the
UK for six months (even though my titre test allows me to go to the UK without
quarantine). There is a serious logic problem in St. Vincent. I think,
-Continued on next page
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-Continued from previous page
My crew weren't keen on me touring England on my own, however. Serious mea-
sures were needed. Fortunately, St. Lucia is one of the countries from which an
animal can be imported directly into St. Vincent. The application was completed and
faxed, along with all my medical information and copies of all my medications to keep
me healthy and bug-free perhaps ten pages in all. I have always been well main-
tained. I am a Princess after all.
A few days later, my human assistants tried to get assurance that the confirmed-
received fax application was in order. Yes, the application was received and the
veterinarian would review it for completeness. She would telephone or e-mail us to
let us know if I could clear Customs. Right? No! No call or e-mail. I barked at my
irresponsible humans to get on the blower. Same message, same action. A few days
later, I growled a renewed request for status. Somehow, the application was lost! The
Ministry telephones were not working and the e-mail system was down as well.
Not to worry however. I commanded a re-fax and successive confirmation tele-
phone calls. At one point, I suggested that the supervisor of the Animal Health and
Production Division be addressed. The St. Vincent staff member refused to transfer
the call and refused to identify herself. Of course, the Chief Veterinarian was again
in a meeting as well. But at the next call we were informed that all was in order and
the permit had been issued. Right? No! Wait.
I said good-bye to my friends in Rodney Bay. I ordered the lifting of the anchor and
set the course for a staging at Soufriere for the next leg to St. Vincent. Before leaving
Soufriere, my dog senses were acting up. I insisted on another check with the vet-
erinarian's office to make sure all was well. The application had not been reviewed
after alL And yes, there was a missing document! An export permit from St. Lucia
was necessary. In that extremely complicated application package, my inept humans
had failed to notice that important point. Themselves know it was an oversight, but
believe that with the many, many calls to the Chief Veterinarian, something that
important should have been addressed.
What to do? The St. Lucia ChiefVeterinarian's office is in Castries, quite a distance
from the waterfront. A quick call to the vet s office and an appointment was made for
early the next day. The travel options for myself and crew were: a return sail to
Castries, a water-taxi and then a land taxi, or just a land taxi from Soufriere. Not
having seen the interior of St. Lucia, I opted for the scenic route. Did not see much
scenery. But what a thrill! An hour-and-a-half, white-paw, closed-eyes run each way
on a rollercoaster with a kamikaze driver. All for the price of US$150.
I d; 1 : 1 1 see my friend Chris (spelled gris) again while another doctor looked at
me. -1. 1.11 I out more papem and pronounced me good to go. This lovely doctor
reviewed my application for St. Vincent. She called the St. Vincent Chief Veterinarian
to make sure I had every requirement met! She reviewed my . 1.... I Ider and
found papem my unimproved crew didn't recognize the importa.. I -1. stapled
all the pertinent documents together to make it easy for our arrival in St. Vincent.
Before we left, this doctor -.... I I 1.11.... ..I 11. ..... I .1ton permit for our return
to St. Lucia! She gave me 11. 11. I 1. .. ... II .......1 -1 so that I could just call
ahead when I come back. I left: 1.... like "canine :rt ." ---ry good.
Safely back on the water, we 11 I St. Vincent, I 1. ...I. we just wanted to visit
Bequia, we were required to stop in St. Vincent at the ..... 1-1 ... 1 dock for my next
physical examination from the St. Vincent veterinarian -1. 1..... d out to be quite
pleasant and my examination was thorough. The importation permit was surren-
dered with instructions that it should be with me at all times when in this country.
There were no fees required.
We immediately left for Bequia where we would go 1.. ...1. ..- loms. As I had been
cleared to land I took my crew with me. The Custon.- II. .- incredulous when
he saw us, but after reviewing our documents, he did allow the humans to stay with
me in the country. Despite all our efforts to meet their standards, whenever I visited
shore I found a true lack of hospitality and at times was treated with 1
hostility. Many times I was rudely stopped by officials, and once a Custo...
raced down the street after us. He ordered us to the Customs office while taking my
importation permit away with no explanation! I am not used to such treatment, nor
are my crew.
We stayed three days and that w -
St. Lucia, St. Vincent. So close y 1
s/v Princess of Tides
Guy Hurtubise and Christine Kehler (the ingratiating crew)
Mflew47x 7 &Calariteran
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Glase bottom eve#able
Set up or beach foothrag
ato 4 IS sees L e
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tide the floods from west to east. Tirno, 74-on nro local
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WHATS ON MY MIND
In recent yeam we have read numerous articles in various Caribbean "news portals" which give any reader a
highly unsettling picture regarding attacks and robberies that take place on yachts throughout the Caribbean
chain particularly those reported in Venezuelan waters. I do find it extraordinary, however, that a well respect-
1 .toonsite (www.noonsite.com) can report a serious attack on a yacht quite so
.I. I do believe events involving crime in the Caribbean should be published
II I.e far more accurately reported by a website of noonsite's reputation.
Do the "writer/publisher" associations responsible for the content on noonsite realize the damage they can cause
when they report incorrectly? Without proper journalistic control, they can severely prejudice the views of any
innocent reader as to the safety of cruising any particular area in the Caribbean.
To illustrate this I copy the exact words published on noonsite immediately after an incident that happened in
St. Martin in July this year:
Serious Attack and Robbery in Guadeloupe
Created by vaL Inst modified on 2010-07 07 08:37:48
Posted 6th July 2010-07 06
Inst week, Mike Harker (a circumnavigator), suffered a sedous and brutal attack while asleep on his yacht,
At about 4am two large men swum out and bounded his boat, dragged him fmm his bunk, and assaulted him so
severely that he became unconscious. Utey then tied him up and ransacked the boat, and using his dinghy, escaped
with all the valuables and electronics they could jind.
In spite of having ripped out the microphone from the fixed VHFset, Mike was able to use the cockpit mike to make
a Mayday call and using an air horn, attract the attention of a neighboring boat. The police and medical help ardved
wry quickly and Mike was taken to hospital in Guadeloupe, where he remains, with severe faciat injuries and a
CAN WE BE LI EVE ALL
by John Burnie
His dinghy was found very soon of ter about 3 miles away and the police are studying the video surveillance foot-
age from the area.
Even though he is awaiting reconstruction surgery on his face, Mike says "I am now able to see again and my
spirits are good because the doctors did a good job of repairing me and I am not dead yet!"
Our thanks to Jimmy Cornell for sending us notice of this attack.
[It is worth mentioning that such attacks are rare in Martinique Ed.]
I noted this reported incident very quickly in view of my long-term past association with the island of Guadeloupe.
Guadeloupe is one of the largest islands in the Caribbean without some sort -f : -:1 1 1.i reference this report
by noonsite is highly diminished. Its like saying "there has been a crime in New . I I. specific "where' is par-
ticularly pertinent to cruisers who need to be advised. I find the thin information particularly disturbing as it is
stated that the source is none other than the distinguished cruising expert Jimmy Cornell.
Compounding the problem is the contentious editorial comment (from the Ed. in brackets) that such attacks
are rare in Martinique. So, was the attack in Martinique or Guadeloupe? And, having lived on a yacht in both
islands for some years, I happen to know that attacks are not "rare" in either island.
Any reader can see that the content of this report centres on the sensational and the one really sensational
fact is that this did not in fact happen anywhere near Guadeloupe or Martinique it actually took place in St
Martin. I will accept that noonsite (after a long delay) did eventually change th I I ... 11. . .. ...... ..fusion,
etcetera. I regret however that headline "news" in the manner they reported it ..1 1 .... I ..1 1 II 1. I 11 .1-. mark
- and only in a detrimental manner to Guadeloupe.
In recent years security and safety have become a major concern for cruisers visiting the Caribbean. Anyone
making spurious insinuations that one particular island is "safer" than another is vey wrong, to my mind, and
sets a dangerous precedent even wome when key facts reported are utterly incorrect.
Am I alone in thinking this is appalling? Are we to take any of the other noonsite "piracy reports" seriously? Or
do they just -1 ... 11..... 11. .1 is sent in to them? If so, this is a poor reflection on the new owners of noonsite,
none other tl.... .1 1 ....-.... Club Ltd., and they really need to do rather better! They are, after all, the ones
encouraging ... L 1.1- 10 cross from Europe to the Caribbean every year; they should take a vey deep
interest in the accuracy of what is reported about the islands they encourage their clients to visit.
May I suggest that noonsite take the advice of the many experts in the Caribbean, such as the Caribbean Safety
and Security Net and others who have contributed to Cadbbean Compass in a responsible, accurate and sensitive
way, before blandly reporting sensational (and wrong) "facts" of any event?
John Burnie and his partner Ann Inuise have been cruising the Caribbean island chain on their yacht Indaba for
the past six years.
Editor's note: We asked noonsite manager, Sue Richards, for her response, which follows.
Whil .. I 11. ..1..-. .. that surrounded the .1.... of the attack on Mike Harker (and are relieved that
he is : ..... 111 1 1 I .1 .4 important to state I. I I - we have them and to reiterate the editorial policy
of noonsite.com which your correspondent is questioning, in our view unjustly.
Our procedure with all security reports, including personal attacks such as this one, is to confirm they actually
happened, either via local press or other cruisers who witnessed the incident. We do not even publish anything
implicating a county unless we have confirmation. However, in this case both the source of the information and
the subject of the attack were known to us and reliable. And, yes it was Jimmy who provided the details having
received an e-mail direct from Mike.
Given Mike's injuries it is perhaps understandable that his account was a little rambling, and further confusion
was caused by mention of transfer to Guadeloupe in the initial report. Yes, an error occurred in our report for
which we apologize. However, as soon as we were made aware of the error, the report was corrected. The initial
report was received on July 6th; the correction was received on July 8th and a correction issued.
Did we sensationalize the report? Categorically no, We strive to report information accurately and Mike's injuries
were horrific; in fact we have photographic evidence to prove this statement.
Noonsite.com 1. .. 1 1 .1 1 .1ni many of whom are actively irr 1 I ... ..I..I ..1.... I the site, which aims
to disseminate:..I ....... .. I .1.. I :ruisem everywhere. It is and 1 .11 ....... 1. I ..- website, which puts
the interests of cruisers first. Personal safety is a high priority for our site users, so we have to report incidents. It
is our intention to provide a forum for impartial advice and reports so that cruisers can form their own opinions.
As for your correspondents attitude to World Cruising Club, his comments are without foundation or basis. For the
record, noonsite.com is run independently of World Cruising Club and uses exactly the same editorial policy and
checking procedures as were used by the previous editorial team, 80 percent of whom continue to work for noonsite.
Sue Richards, Site Manager
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2- 3 Pete Sheals Memorial Race (IC24 Match Racing), Tortola.
Royal British Virgin Islands Yacht Club (RBVIYC), tel (284) 494-3286,
3 9 43rd Bonaire International Sailing Regatta. www.bonaireregatta.org
9 Willy T Virgins Cup Race, BVI. RBVIYC
9- 16 Port Antonio International Marlin Tournament, Jamaica.
13 26th Annual Port Antonio canoe Tournament, Jamaica.
16 17 J/24 Invitational Championship, Barbados. http://sailbarbados.com
23 FULL MOON
27 Independence Day, St. Vincent & the Grenadines. Public holiday
29 31 13th Annual Foxy s Cat Fight, Jost Van Dyke, BVI.
West End Yacht Club (WEYC), Tortola, BVI, www.jollyrogerbvi.com
29 31 14th World Creole Music Festival, Dominica. www.wcmfdominica.com
30 31 BVI Schools Regatta. RBVIYC
30 1 Nov Triskell Cup Regatta, Guadeloupe. www.triskellcup.com
I All Saints Day. Public holiday in many places
2 All Souls Day. Public holiday in many places
3 Independence Day, Dominica. Public holiday
3 21st Annual Caribbean 1500, Virginia to Tortola, starts.
3 Bahamas Cruising Rally, Virginia to Abacos, starts. www.caribl500.com
6 St. Maarten Optimist Championship. St. Maarten Yacht Club (SMYC),
tel (599) 544-2075, fax (599) 544-2091, infoesmyc.com, www.smyc.com
6 Drakes Channel Treasure Hunt. RBVIYC
12- 14 3rd Heineken Regatta curacao. www.helnekenregattacuracao.com
12 20 20th Aruba Heineken Catamaran Regatta. www.arubaregatta.com
13 14 Jolly Harbour Yacht Club Regatta, Antigua.
Jolly Harbour Yacht Club (JHYC), Antigua. tel (268) 770-6172,
miramarsailing @hotmail.com, www.jhycantigua.com
13 14 IC24 Nations Cup (tentative). RBVIYC
13 17 Golden Rock Regatta, St. Maarten to Statia.
18 22 St. Barth Cata Cup (F18 catamaran regatta). www.stbarthcatacup.com
19 20 Caribbean Rum and Beer Festival, Barbados.
20 Round Tortola Race. RBVIYC
21 FULL MOON
21 25th Atlantic Rally for cruisers, Canaries to St. Lucia, starts.
26 28 7th Course de I Alliance Regatta, St. Maarten/St. Barths/Anguilla.
28 30 J/24 Barbados Match Racing Championships. http://sailbarbados.com
AI information was correct to the best of our knowledge
at the iime this issue of Compass went to press but plans change,
so please contact event organizers directly for confirmation.
If you would like a nautical or tourism event listed FREE in our monthly calendar,
please send the name and dates) of the event and
the name and contact information of the organizing body to
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lona I bl }mr: pbdib Ide y rnindcely I e,
suitable for refurbish. As is
wotc Cln 1/ Orton Kin
Tel (784) 458-3099/3831
36 PLEP~irct~(Rio t..laract
d7ailil3 n 2hSsdiBrnleter
Barient, Lewmar E-mail
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CW = Caribbean wide
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a dn u Ih st el 4 MARINE TECHNICIAN WANTED
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Bequia Sweet, Sweet, Sweet! email CV to enzamarines
BOATS FOR SALE IN TRINIDAD
ed at Young Island Cut St
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1990 HUNTER 433 Turn key,
USS70a03 Lyng Trinidad
Tel: (868) 683-7946
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Tel: (758) 721-7007
keeps you sailing E
lam, Cole Bay* SAD,5M.5510 Babbfs Madge + 595.5433119
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store prices gone whee stocks nees ad for the mona of actuaer ants
Prices in Curacao may be 10% bights
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