Title: Caribbean Compass
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Permanent Link: http://ufdc.ufl.edu/UF00095627/00043
 Material Information
Title: Caribbean Compass the Caribbean's monthly look at sea & shore
Physical Description: v. : ill. ; 35 cm.
Language: English
Publisher: Compass Pub.
Place of Publication: Bequia St. Vincent and the Grenadines
Bequia, St. Vincent and the Grenadines
Publication Date: September 2010
Frequency: monthly
regular
 Subjects
Subject: Boats and boating -- Periodicals -- Caribbean Area   ( lcsh )
Yachting -- Periodicals -- Caribbean Area   ( lcsh )
Genre: periodical   ( marcgt )
Spatial Coverage: Saint Vincent and the Grenadines
 Record Information
Bibliographic ID: UF00095627
Volume ID: VID00043
Source Institution: University of Florida
Holding Location: University of Florida
Rights Management: All rights reserved by the source institution and holding location.
Resource Identifier: oclc - 54085008
issn - 1605-1998

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lMonthiv Look at Sea & Shore


SEPTEMBER 2010 NO. 180


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C M PASS

The Caribbean's Monthly Look at Sea & Shore
www.caribbeancompass.com

SEPTEMBER 2 I N, MB[, 1 80


Cruisers Net...
Funds for Charity, That Is.... 13
r,


A Unique Cruise
An Eagle Eye's View ............. 26


There's More!
The Forgotten Caribbean ...... 20

Isla Providencia
A Welcome Passage Break .... 22


We Love...
Pandora's Island Favorites.... 24


Ilie Unicorn
St. Lucia's Film Star............. 27


I DEPARTMENT


Info & Updates................... 5
Business Briefs ...................... 8
Caribbean Eco-News........... 10
Regatta News........................ 18
Meridian Passage.................28
Sailors' Hikes........................ 28
Book Review........................ 29
Fun Pages........................30, 31
Dolly's Deep Secrets............ 32


1'" .I I . I..
Tel: (784) 4573409, Fax: (784) 457 3410

Editor..................... ............ Sally Erdle
sally@carlbbeancompass.com
Assistant Editor...................Elaine Ollivierre
jsprat@vincysurf.com
Advertising & Distribution........Tom Hopman
tom@caribbeancompass.com
Art, Design & Production......Wilfred Dederer
wlde@carlbbeancompass.com
Accounting ...............................Debra Davis
debra@caribbeancompass.com
Compass Agents by Island:

.i...i- i .i ..
AI I I II I .


The Caribbean Sky............... 32
Compass Fiction ................. 33
Cooking with Cruisers.......... 35
Readers' Forum..................... 36
What's on My Mind..........40, 41
Monthly Calendar .............. 42
Caribbean Market Place.....43
Classified Ads..................... 46
Advertisers' Index................ 46


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Cover photo: Mark Kilty, Carriacou Regatta Festival 2010

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Info






Get Weather on Grenada's Cruiser Net
Since Hurricane Ivan in 2004, Island Water World Grenada, a leading yacht chan-
dlery in the Windward Islands, has become a trusted source of weather reports
broadcast on VHF radio channel 68 at 0730 hours, Monday through Friday.







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Two weather reports are currently offered on this Grenada Cruiser's Net. The first, a
local weather report intended for people staying on the island, contains information
taken from the weather station at Maurice Bishop International Airport. For the sec-
ond report, all the information is taken from the US National Hurricane Centre in
Miami, giving information on Tropical Waves; a synopsis for the area from seven


degrees north to 22 degrees north, and 55 degrees west to 65 degrees west; and
then the five-day forecast for the same area. Following the weather reports, the tidal
predictions for Prickly Bay for the day are given.
For more information on Island Water World see ad on page 48.
Puerto Rico: New Buoy Provides Weather and Water Data
Beachgoers, mariners, rescue workers, and response crews in Puerto Rico now
have new information available when making decisions such as whether it is safe to
head out to sea or where to find mariners in distress. NOAA partners within the
Caribbean Integrated Coastal Ocean Observing System recently deployed a data
buoy in 110 feet of water off Escambr6n Beach, near San Juan, to provide data on
winds, waves and currents in areas including the port of San Juan and the island's
Atlantic coast.
Real-time data provided by this buoy will include wind measurements, air tempera-
ture, atmospheric pressure, wave information, near-surface water temperature and
salinity observations, and ocean currents throughout the water column.
The new buoy, called PR2, was deployed on July 23rd, following the successful
deployment and operation of another buoy, PR1, to the southeast of Caja de
Muertos, serving the port of Ponce and the island's Caribbean coast. It is now oper-
ational and the data it collects can be viewed in near-real time online at http://
gyre.umeoce.maine.edu/caricoos.
"Easier access to timely and useful water and weather information saves lives, prop-
erty, and resources," said Zdenka Willis, director of NOAA's Integrated Ocean
Observing System (IOOS). "It's the information that the sailor, state and local agen-
cies, or beachgoer needs in order to make safe and informed decisions before
heading out on the water or to the beach."
These data buoys are financed by NOAA IOOS, constructed by the University of
Maine buoy group, and operated jointly by the University of Maine and researchers
from the University of Puerto Rico Mayagiez campus.
IOOS is a federal, regional and private-sector partnership working to enhance our
ability to collect, deliver and use ocean information. IOOS delivers the data and
information needed to increase understanding of our oceans and coasts, so deci-
sion makers can act to improve safety, enhance the economy and protect
the environment.
For more information visit www.noaa gov
Eight Bells: Norman Faria
Norman Faria passed away unexpectedly on May 25th in Barbados
after a brief illness.
Norman has been Caribbean Compass's Barbados correspondent since shortly
after this magazine began publication in 1995. Barbadian born, Norman was a
graduate in Political Science from York University in Toronto, Canada. A former mer-
chant seaman, he was a keen recreational sailor and member of the Barbados
Cruising Club. He also served for the past 16 years as Guyana's Honorary Consul to
Barbados. As Eric Smith wrote in The Nation newspaper of Barbados, "Almost every-
thing he undertook he did passionately, whether it was sailing and fishing, journalism,
or speaking out in defence of the voiceless."
In the Compass, Norman wrote thoughtfully and prolifically on subjects ranging
from sailing, shipping and boatbuilding to coastal development issues, watersports
safety and Caribbean maritime history.
Continued on next page


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Continued from previous page
Social justice and appre
citation of Caribbean nau-
tical heritage were recur-
ring themes. His series of
kr indus. r l cDifferent Folks"iin which
"Different Boats for
Different Folks", in which
he interviewed the crews
Sof unusual yachts visiting
his home waters, was a
popular long-running fea-
ture in these pages.
Compass has a number of
Norman s articles on file
for future publication, and
we look forward to bring-
ing these remaining works
to his fans.
He is survived by his wife,
Bibiana, four children and
many friends. He will be
sincerely missed.


The late Norman Faria,
Our Man in Barbados


Beach Cleaners' Seminar Held in Grenada
Members of the Grand Anse Beach Task Force and those charged with the clean-
ing of the Grand Anse and Morne Rouge beaches are now more informed about
key aspects of Grenada's tourism industry. A recently convened training pro-
gramme by the Grenada Board of Tourism at the Conference Room of the
Flamboyant Hotel was tailored to increase their level of understanding of the work-
ings of the industry and the important role that they play in providing positive experi-
ences to all beach users.
Among the presentations was 'Understanding Tourism and its Importance to
Grenada', where participants were apprised of the linkages that tourism perpetu-
ates within the economy and the multiplying effects that are associated with its
impact. They were also given clearer perspectives about their roles within the bigger
framework of improving the visitor experiences in Grenada.
Another training programme will be held during the first two weeks of September.
The current training emphasis of the Grenada Board of Tourism is part of the overall
challenge to make Grenada more welcoming and amenable at a time when
potential visitors are increasingly selective about their choices of destinations.

Cruisers' Site-ings
* St. Lucia and its marinas were featured in the May/June issue of Marina World
magazine. Read the story at www.marinaworld.com.


* Active cruisers Glenda and Eddy have updated their blog. Check it out at www.
sailing-helena.blogspot.com.
* Dominica's Portsmouth Association of Yacht Security now has a facebook page.
Helen of Cabrits Dive says, "We want to use it both to build a community of people


who love Dominica, and to promote the beauty of the island and the volunteer
work of the group. The page is a work in progress and any suggestions or photos
that you have would be most appreciated!" PAYS now has its own e-mail address,
too: paysdominica@yahoo.com.

Update: Serial Yacht Thief Sentenced
In the May 2009 issue of Caribbean Compass, we reported on the theft of the
Beneteau Cyclades 43.3 Ishtar, which was chartered from VPM charters in Le Marin,
Martinique in February of last year and not returned as agreed. The yacht was
found some 1,600 nautical miles away at Cucumber Beach Marina in Belize, repaint-
ed and bearing a new name.
The men aboard, most of whom carried passports from the Czech Republic, were
taken into police custody. It is reported that one of them, Milos Gaspar, 43, had
been found three years earlier in the Canary Islands, having rented a Lagoon 410
catamaran from Guadeloupe and failed to return it. That yacht was later recovered
in the Cape Verde Islands.
Gaspar was expelled from Belize on April 17th, 2009, and flew to the United States.
Through the assistance of the FBI, he was arrested at an airport in Houston, Texas
later the same day.
Continued on next page


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Continued from previous page
In January, he was found guilty by a Platte County, Missouri jury for renting and
then failing to return a recreational vehicle in 2002, and in March he was sentenced
to three years in prison. He declined to testify in his own defense in large part
because he would have had to account for the two stolen yachts. He reportedly






9













admitted, however, to helping illegal aliens enter the United States. Platte County
Prosecuting Attorney Eric Zahnd said, "This defendant is an international con man
who evaded justice for seven years."
The US Immigration and Customs Enforcement Agency has begun a process that
could result in Gaspar's deportation from the United States following his prison term. If
you see this man, don trent him a boat!

Tobago: Buccoo Reef Rules Explained
Cruisers visiting Tobago asked cruising guide author Chris Doyle: "When anchored
in Store Bay, we used to be able to dinghy out to Buccoo Reef and snorkel there.
But now we are told the reef is off limits to us, although apparently not to tourists
snorkeling off the glass-bottom boats. What's the story?"
Chris contacted Kenneth Caesar, Director of Tobago's Department of Marine
Resources and Fisheries, who explains:
"The Buccoo Reef was declared a restricted area in 1973. This is in accordance
with Act 1 of 1970 referred to as the Marine Areas Preservation and Enhancement
Act of the Laws of Trinidad and Tobago.
"In 2008, the year declared by the UN the International Year of Coral Reefs, the
Tobago House of Assembly decided to enforce the part of the Act that deals with
persons alighting on the reef. This was an attempt to stall the further deterioration of
the reef due to reef walking. The Act stipulated that no one shall alight from a boat
unless permission is granted by the Minister or his delegate."
Presumably the local glass-bottom boat operators have obtained such permission,


although we hear that some visiting cruisers who have requested it have been denied.
The solution? If the restriction is specifically against "alighting from a boat", perhaps
you could just swim out to the reef from Store Bay, Buccoo Bay or the shore. But
those in the know say that Buccoo Reef is in very poor condition from over-use (or
abuse). and there is much better snorkelina on the northeast end of the island. You


Heavily used Buccoo Reef lies just offPigeon Point on Tobago's southwest coast


can anchor at Anse Bateau, and nearby'the snorkeling on the leeward side of
Goat Island and Little Tobago ('Bird of Paradise') Island is really nice, and they are
well protected".

Paper Boat Wanted!
Jerry Blakeslee, Dockmaster at Fantasy Island Marina in Roatan, Honduras, says,
"We need help! Privilege Hotels is offering US$1,000 for the transportation of approxi-
mately 1,000 pounds of paperwork from Fantasy Island, Roatan to Isla Mujeres some-
time around mid-November. If you are interested or know someone that might be,
please contact me ASAP."
Jerry can be reached at fidockmaster@yahoo.com or cell (504) 8798 5495.

Welcome Aboard!
In this issue of Compass we welcome new advertisers The Lure restaurant of
Trinidad, page 9; and Village Cay Marina of Tortola, page 11.
Good to have you with us!















BUSINESS




BRIEFS


IWW Pleased with Reception in Curagao
Sean Kennelly reports: Island Water World opened a
new store in Curacao on July 9th, and we are very
pleased with the reception so far. This is a large, "full








keeps o -ld


assortment" store, which means it carries a broad
range of products from Anchoring to Safety in
depth and, we believe, fairly priced. The store also
incorporates our "store within a store" concept: Dive
Buddy, a snorkeling, diving and watersports store; and
Fish Tales, our comprehensive fishing store. With nearly
7,000 square feet of total space we plan not to disap-
point in terms of choice and availability. Our Store
Manager is Jimmy Dunker, who is well respected,
experienced and very knowledgeable, having run for
many years his own chandlery in Curacao.
For more information on Island Water World see ad
on page 48.
The Moorings Comes to Port Louis, Grenada
The Moorings charter company has chosen Camper
& Nicholson's Port Louis Marina in St George's,
Grenada as its newest Caribbean base. More than 30
charter yachts will be based at the marina, together
with offices, briefing rooms and other support facilities.
Beginning in October, The Moorings will offer var-
ied itineraries for bareboat charters and all-inclu-


sive crewed vacations on a fleet of custom-built
catamarans and monohulls from Robertson &
Caine and Beneteau.
"We're delighted to have been selected by The
Moorings as their southern Caribbean base," says
James Beaver, C&N's operations director. "The
momentum has been building in Port Louis since we
first opened some 18 months ago, and we already
have sailmakers, provisioners, tour operators and other
businesses operating out of the marina. This shows the
potential for Grenada as an international yachting
destination now that the right facilities are in place."
Sunsail will be coming to the marina as well.
For more information on Port Louis Marina see ad on
page 12
The Next Wave in Hurricane Protection
Doyle Sailmakers BVI, with more than 30 years' expe-
rience building storm protection for world cruisers, has


uppi))l- u inrll I cr luluyy lu Irlull u rlu uuslrlts- p)o-
tection. Using fabrics that pass the Dade and Broward
County (Florida) Large Projective Test and Air Pressure
Test, the Doyle Caribbean Storm Shields are easily
deployed with a minimum of effort and will protect
your property while providing some light and airflow.
The fabric is similar to that used on a gymnastics
trampoline, able to absorb tremendous impact load-
ing. The ability to stretch upon impact is the key to the
Storm Shield's effectiveness and is why there needs to
be a space between the screen and the window or
door for maximum protection. The fabric is a tightly
woven mesh that allows some light and air to pass
through; once the Storm Shields have been deployed,
the house continues to be comfortable with light and
ventilation. All attachment points are reinforced with
stainless steel rings and webbing designed to with-
stand loads in excess of 3,000 pounds.
Why live behind plywood or aluminum shutters when
you don't have to?
For more information, contact Bob Phillips, Tortola, at
bob@doylecaribbean.com or (284) 494-2569.
For more information on Doyle Sails see ad on page 3.
Barefoot Yacht Charters Opens
New Brokerage Division
Barefoot Yacht Charters of Blue Lagoon, St. Vincent
has announced the opening of Barefoot Yacht Sales,
a brokerage division of the well-known charter com-
pany and marine centre group.
Leading the new venture will be professional US
yacht broker Daniel Voorhees, who has recently
arrived in St. Vincent after a highly successful tenure
with Vallarta Yachts in Mexco.
The brokerage will sell both new yachts and used
yachts, regionally and internationally, both for charter
and private ownership.


The sales office can be contacted directly at dan-
iel@barefootyachts.com or (784) 456-9334/9144.
For more information on Barefoot Yacht Charters
see ad on page 15
Northern Lights Holds 2010 Caribbean
Dealer Conference
Northern Lights, Inc., leading manufacturer of diesel
power generation and marine propulsion systems,
held their Caribbean Dealer Conference in Road
Town, Tortola on July 28th and 29th. This biennial con-
ference is a gathering of Northern Lights' Caribbean
dealer network designed to discuss new products, ser-
vice techniques, industry trends and other issues that
lead to more customer satisfaction. A two-hour
Customer Service Seminar was hosted by Service
Trainer Mary Finley Jones, which received very positive
feedback. This was also an unparalleled opportunity
for dealers to have direct input on product design
and development. In addition, customer comments,
criticism and feedback were discussed, reviewed and
passed on directly to Northern Lights leadership.
"This is one of very few manufacturers who actively
solicit feedback from dealers and their customers in
the Caribbean," says Parts & Power sales manager
Drew Bremner, "and the only one we know of who
comes down here and puts on a show like this. It is
clear why Northern Lights is the most popular genera-
tor in the Caribbean."
Other topics in the Conference included new prod-
ucts being launched, Technicold Air Conditioning, EPA
and EU emissions regulations and their impact on the
industry, electronic service tooling and the Northern
Lights Caribbean website
(www.CaribbeanNorthernLights.com).
Dealers representing St. Thomas, St. Croix, St. John, BVI,
St. Maarten, Antigua, Dominica, Martinique, St. Lucia, St.
Vincent, Grenada and Trinidad were in attendance.
Founded in 1958, Northern Lights is a leading manu-
facturer of marine diesel generators, Lugger propul-
sion engines and Technicold marine systems. The
company's products are distributed through a global
sales and service network to more than 40 countries.
For more information on Northern Lights visit
www.northern-lights.com.
Ultrasonic Antifouling Available at Grenada Marine
Ultrasonic Antifouling the world's leading electron-
ic antifouling brand is expanding its global network
of approved installers to meet demand.
The technology uses low energy, high frequency
ultrasonic waves to create movement in the water
molecules surrounding the boat hull, cocooning it in
an invisible shield of protection from algae and barna-
cles. Ultrasonic Antifouling is simple to install.
Transducers are bonded to the inside of hulls with no
through-hull drilling. Earlier this year, Motor Boat &
Yachting magazine named Ultrasonic Antifouling
"Product of the Month" with a five-star rating in its
antifouling review.
The effectiveness of the company's non-toxic
marine antifouling is well proven in the warm waters of
the Caribbean, leading to the addition of new
Approved Installation Centres at Grenada Marine, St
David's, Grenada, and Standard Motor Supplies, Port
of Spain, Trinidad.
For more information on Ultrasonic Antifouling visit
www ultrasonic-anfifouling.com.
For more information on Grenada Marine see ad on
page 24.
International School St. Lucia Celebrates
its First Graduation Ceremony
On June 25th the International School St. Lucia's...
Continued on next page


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I~~~~~~ ~ ~~ Rone BaS.Lca0Tl 78 5 290Fx (5)4201 -al adaecnw














the first students of a St. Lucian school to achieve the
the first students of a St. Lucian school to achieve the
cmansrlin Pani R, Inair q.nr.l ..m4ns qh1l ninl-mn


Principal June Harkness (at left) congratulates
Co Valedictorian Filamena Day

Joint Valedictorians Filamena Day and Isaac
Golding delivered an inspirational speech to their
peers about the importance of making good choices,
and their class's educational journey through the
tough demands of the New Brunswick Secondary
School Diploma.
With the help of ISSL's Student Guidance service,
graduates have made successful applications to uni-
versities in the USA, Canada, the UK, Cuba and
Mexico, and between them have earned more than
ECS450,000 in scholarships. Degree subjects range
from Medicine and Engineering to Journalism,
International Business and Interior Design.
The International School St. Lucia proudly congratu-
lates the Class of 2010 on achieving their goals, and
wishes them great success as they take their next step
into the future.
For more information on The International School visit
www.intschoolstfucia.org.

New Oil-Spill Response Boat for Barbados
Alnmaritec Limited, one of the UK's leading special-
ist aluminium boat builders, is gaining recognition for
oil spill response/pollution control vessels. The most
recent delivery was a boom deployment and spill
response boat, which was delivered to the Barbados
National Terminal Company Ltd. for operation on their
oil export facility at Oistins Bay.
The new vessel, Responder 1, is based upon the
successful Wave Worker class from Alnmaritec. She
is a 12 metre long and 5.3 metre wide displacement
catamaran powered by twin 150 bhp Cummins die-
sel engines driving conventional fixed pitch propel-
lers that give her a top speed of 12 knots.
Responder I is equipped with an air conditioned


wheelhouse, small WC, a five-tonne hydraulic deck
crane, freshwater wash facilities and a range of oil
spill equipment. This equipment includes diesel-
powered dispersant spray pumps and extendable
spray arms as well as a hydraulically powered
boom reel with 1,200 feet of oil containment boom
that can be deployed and recovered over a stern
roller system.
Martin Smyth of Crawford & Massiah Associates says,
"We are a small firm of marine surveyors and consul-
tants in Barbados, and are the Caribbean agents for
Alnmaritec. I think that this vessel might set a trend
wherever tankers have to load or discharge crude oil,
and there are pristine beaches in the offing.
Responder's main job in Barbados will be laying an oil
boom around the tankers that are loading crude oil
here for shipment to Trinidad. This is just a precaution-
ary measure, in case there are any spills while they are
loading the oil from the sub-sea pipeline while moored
off Oistins.
"They used to bring the boom down to the beach in
a trailer behind a Land Rover, and then tow it out with
a fishing boat, but it will be much easier now with this
new boat, where the boom can just be hydraulically
wound up on its reel."
Further information and photographs can be found
at www.ainmaritec.co.uk/boats/alboats90.html.
For more information on the Responder in Barbados
contact Martin Smyth of Crawford & Massiah
Associates at finsmyth@caribsurfcom or (246) 230-1532

Changes at Fantasy Island, Roatan
As of October 31st, Privilege Hotels, the manage-
ment group currently operating Fantasy Island Resort,
Marina and Dive Center on the island of Roatan,
Honduras, will terminate their contract with the own-
ers of the property. As of this writing a new manage-
ment group has not yet been selected but the resort
will continue to function under the control of the
property owner.
In a meeting with the owner, marina manager
and dock master Jerry Blakeslee was assured that
all operations of the resort would continue and that
significant improvements would be made to the
infrastructure, including the marina. Specifically, the
marina docks would be repaired or replaced as
necessary, new electrical and cable TV boxes
installed, additional dockside lighting installed,
grounds maintenance improved and areas in front
of the docks dredged.
Over the last year, Fantasy Island Marina has
become a cruisers' favorite in Roatan, thanks in part
to its location near the best shopping, provisioning
and marine services of the island. Guests of the mari-
na also have full use of the resort facility, plus meals
and scuba diving at a discounted price. All of these
services are available to cruisers anchored out for a
small fee. Jerry Blakeslee is the Cruising Station Host for
the Seven Seas Cruising Association.
For more information contact Jerry at
fidockmaster@yahoo.com.

New Tapas in Grenada
LeBistro, overlooking Grenada's Grand Anse Beach,
opens up this season by serving tapas a wide vari-
ety of cold and warm appetizers in the Spanish cui-
sine. Says Patrick Tobelem, chef at LeBistro: "It is a wel-
come addition to the full-course Mediterranean style
meals we normally serve at LeBistro."
LeBistro is a small restaurant with a top quality gour-
met kitchen. Its formula is table d'hote, which means
that it normally serves the meal the chef has chosen
to prepare for the week. But if you contact Chef
Patrick 24 hours in advance, he will customize the
meal to fully match your taste.


Open daily except Sundays and Mondays.
For more information, phone Chef Patrick
at (473) 533-1262.

Nanny Cay Pledges More Support to
BVI Spring Regatta
After eight consecutive years of hosting the BVI
Spring Regatta (BVISR), Nanny Cay Resort and Marina
(Nanny Cay) has committed to supporting the territo-
ry's largest regatta for an additional five years. The
renewed contract confirms Nanny Cay as the pre-
senting sponsor and host venue provider
through 2016.
"Nanny Cay is very pleased to renew its arrange-
ment with the BVISR," said general manager, Miles
Sutherland-Pilch. "Over the years, we have substan-
tially improved the infrastructure and honed our prep-
arations for the regatta from planning dockage and
the supply of reliable electrical and plumbing services,
to providing manpower to set up the village. We work
with the organizing committee and other external
organizations to ensure the security, health and safety
- and, of course, fun of all visitors.
Nanny Cay Marina has the capacity to accommo-
date the majority of the participating yachts, which
has numbered more than 160. The boatyard, on-site
chandlery, marine contractors and shops also pro-
vide the boaters with extensive stock, repair and
maintenance services.
The Regatta Village, located on the beach at
Nanny Cay, receives more than 1,500 visitors during
the four-day regatta period. The Village includes
sponsor and vendor booths as well as bars and restau-
rant concession stands.
2011 marks the 40th anniversary of the BVI Spring
Regatta, which started as a sailing event for a handful
of 19-foot Squibs and 14-foot Sunfish. The three-day
Sailing Festival was introduced as a prelude to the
regatta in 2003. The organizing committee in partner-
ship with the BVI Chamber of Commerce and Hotel
Association will be rolling out special events through-
out the week of sailing to mark the occasion.
For more information on Nanny Cay visit
www.nannycay com.
For more information on the BVI Spring Regatta visit
www.bvispringregatta.org.

Air Service for Anguilla
Cape Air adds a new island destination in the
Caribbean with two daily flights between Anguilla and
San Juan, Puerto Rico beginning on December 22nd.
This new Caribbean route complements Cape Air's
existing Caribbean service for San Juan, St. Thomas,
St. Croix, Tortola, Vieques, Mayaguez and Ponce.
Tickets can be purchased on Expedia or Travelocity or
at 866-Cape-Air.

Flagship Charter Yacht Services Announces
New In-House Charter Broker
The Virgin Islands Charter Yacht League, located on
St. Thomas, USVI, has announced the addition of Kelly
Kiernan to its Flagship clearing house staff as in-house
charter broker. Fleet marketing and recruitment will be
at the forefront of her responsibilities. Kelly was former-
ly the Operations Manager of On-Deck Ocean Racing
on St. Thomas.
Flagship has been the premier charter clearing
house in the Caribbean since its inception some
39 years ago. Flagship represents not only the
Flagship charter yacht fleet, but also looks forward
to the addition of its new Day Charter tour desk to
be located at their offices at Yacht Haven
Grande marina.
Kelly can be contacted at Kelly@flagshipvi com or
(340) 776-5630.


Ouldoor T h "01d T Oerig H~ours:
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V-- I M
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Caribbean



Eco-News

Free BVI Marine Awareness Guide Available
The BVI Ministry of Natural Resources and Labour and the Conservation and
Fisheries Department recently launched the second edition of their Marine Awareness
Guide. Acting Permanent Secretary in the Ministry of Natural Resources and Labour,
Janice Rymer, said, "The magazine is aimed at educating the public about the
marine environment, and in turn will allow persons to become better stewards of the
environment."
Chief Conservation and Fisheries Officer, Bertrand Lettsome, said, "The guide will
continue to provide information on the conservation and preservation of the marine
environment and its species, as well as provide information on the laws and policies
that underpin the conservation efforts."
Mr. Lettsome also noted that the Marine Awareness Guide highlights areas of the
marine environment that benefit BVI residents and visitors. Some areas include
food, recreation and economic benefits through tourism, and the guide will raise
awareness on how important protecting these resources is.
The Marine Awareness Guide was produced as a collaborative effort between the
Conservation and Fisheries Department, A Looking Glass Ltd. and local photogra
phers, while funded by the Foreign and Commonwealth Office, Victor International,
Nanny Cay Marina, Mosaka Ventures, CCT, Sail Caribbean, Action Quest, Sea Trek,
The Moorings, Sunsail, BVI Tourist Board, Horizon Yacht Charters, Rosewood Little
Dix Bay, Sotheby's and Road Town Wholesale.
The Marine Awareness Guide is an annual publication and features marine habi
tats, marine species, marine-related laws, conservation practices, potentially danger
ous Ir.i* -r.ri'-m .;;-.1 .f-t-r measures.
To. I . i .. .. .. .. .bvimarineawareness.com.

Leatherback Nest Relocated on Klein Bonaire
Sea Turtle Conservation Bonaire reports: It has been two years since the last leath
erback turtle was -- -1- 1 1 .-- -. -s on Bonaire. On June 7th, a STCB field crew
found a fresh nesi 1.1 ... I ... The nest was relocated to a safe area of the
beach because it was laid too close to the waterline and the eggs were flooded.
"These animals are returning now from their nesting -r-n- t- .. i...
homes and sometimes they have the urge to lay one last - ......
ager Mabel Nava. "They look for the nearest beach and try their best to deposit their
eggs. Klein Bonaire is not an optimal nest site for leatherbacks." Using best prac
tices, STCB staff relocated more than a hundred leatherback eggs to a higher and
drier part of the beach.
Sea Turtle Conservation Bonaire (STCB) is a non-governmental research and con
servation organization that has been I i,,,. i... les since 1991. Our mission
is to ensure the protection and recove, I .. ... - turtle populations through
out their range. Funding for STCB comes from conservation and research grants,
merchandise sales and donations.
For more information contact stcb@bonaireturtles.org.
Dominica MPA Highlights Regional Policy Discussion
Indi Mclymont-Lafayette, regional director community, media and environment at
Panos Caribbean, reports: About four percent of the Eastern Caribbean's marine
shelf is under some form of protection. However, less than 20 percent of these areas
are judged I I 1 I ....... I With the growth of tourism, fisheries, and other
developer. ... I I -.rine protected areas are an important tool for
safeguarding coral reefs.
A marine protected area (MPA) is a protected area whose boundaries include some
area of ocean. According to a study called Reefs at Risk published in 2004, more


than 285 MPAs have been declared across the Caribbean, but the level of protection
afforded by them varies considerably. The Reefs at Risk Project found only six per
cent of MPAs to be rated as effectively managed and 13 percent as having partially
,ff--t:- -- m----.t
i i, I 1 ., i .. 1 ] i-i --t -i tl Soufriere/Scotts Head Marine Reserve
,- I i ...... ... i 1. hI h. I. I.. 1. in a regional policy discussion held in
Roseau, Dominica on July 20th. The research was done by the Centre for Resource
Management and Environmental Studies (CERMES) of the University of the West
Indies, Cave Hill Campus, in collaboration with The Nature Conservancy (TNC), a
'--1... I .1. .. .... with funding from the United States Agency
Dr. Patrick McConney of CERMES stressed that while the SSMR was ecologically
sound, t'r ----r- i7-- i.n;-. -*i- t i-sues that needed improvement. He made
specific : ........ i. .. i ....... inch -li;; r- tri-ti. ri; ti T-- 1l r-
Management Authority (LAMA) to have a small i i .1 I i, I ,
supported by a broader stakeholder advisory group, both of which have clear terms
of reference. At the meetings many community members agreed with McConney's
research findings and recommendations, including the need for more systematic and
continued communications between themselves, the managing body of the LAMA
and other critical stakeholders.
McConney said that the exchange of information between islands was one of the
key recommendations in his study. During the discussions in Dominica, it was clear
that the LAMA still had to do a fair amount of public education to get people to
understand the value of the marine protected areas.
Tobago Cays Marine Park News: Training and Turtles
On July 23rd, the Tobago Cays Marine Park (TCMP) and the OECS Protected Areas
and Associated Livelihoods (OPAAL) Project concluded a five-day training to certify
mariners from four southeastern Caribbean states as Boat Masters Grade 3. The
training was held in collaboration with the Organization of Eastern Caribbean States
(OECS) and the Nova Scotia Community College.
The purpose of the training was to build capacity in protected area planning and
n .-...t n i; support of sustainable -. i.i. i. i .... i .i .
, i i i i training enabled 18 ........ .... .. .
Mayreau and Union Island to be trained and certified as Boat Masters Grade 3.
Mariners who attended the training represent marine protected areas, water taxi opera
tors, fishers, watersports/tour operators, and government fisheries departments.

Towing training at Tobago Cays Marine Park



. .. ,.. .... . .. -.
W! -7*7*7 -- -

---- -

The training focused on both theoretical and practical elements of c I .... -....
craft in accordance with the International Maritime Organization staid, ., I .
Master 3. Course topics covered I 1,... II,.. emergency situations, preventing
collisions at sea, seamanship, "-- ... I weather, engineering knowledge,
and prevention of pollution.
The training was held as part of the OPAAL project, a five-year development project
being executed by the OECS Secretariat through its Environment and Sustainable
Development Unit (ESDU), in partnership with the International Bank for
Reconstruction and Development (the World Bank) acting as ... i ...
Agency of the GEF; and the Fond Francais de 1'Environnement ,, .1
the Government of France.
In other TCMP news, TCMP and the OPAAL project are pleased to announce new
funding from the Organization of Eastern Caribbean States (OECS) to conduct a sea
turtle assessment in the Tobago Cays Marine Park.
-ontinued on next page


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continued from previous page
The assessment will be undertaken with partner organization the Wider Caribbean
Sea Turtle Conservation Network (WIDECAST), an international scientific network
comprised of sea turtle experts, natural resource professionals and community
based conservationists in more than 40 Caribbean nations and territories.
In 1991-1993, WIDECAST facilitated the development of the Sea Turtle Recovery
Action Plan for St. Vincent & the Grenadines, which investigated the status and


of seA t.ut rI. p u I I' ', ..


distribution of sea turtles nationally. Since then, personnel from the Fisheries
Division have been trained by WIDECAST in sea turtle biology and conservation.
Executive Director of WIDECAST, Dr. Karen Eckert, commented, "We are excited
about the opportunity to focus on the Tobago Cays Marine Park, and to share the latest
in scientific knowledge and research practices related to the sea turtles in the park."
The new project will assess not only the status of sea turtle populations in the
park, but also the habitat used by the turtles. To this end, WIDECAST, together with
the Barbados Sea Turtle Project, will train TCMP staff in sea turtle research and
conservation techniques.
The park's marine biologist, Olando Harvey, explained, "In the park we see green
turtles, which are considered endangered worldwide, and some hawksbill turtles,
which are considered critically endangered. These sea turtles, like all flora and
fauna, are fully protected within the park and we look forward to implementing a
long-term sea turtle monitoring programme."
For more information about the Tobago Cays Marine Park and the OPAAL project in
St. Vincent & the Grenadines please contact either Sharon Gulick or Lesroy Noel at
(784) 485-8191 or tcmpl91@hotmail.com.

Sustainable Grenadines Project to Continue as 'Inc.'
The Sustainable Grenadines Inc. will be launched on September 2nd with a cere
mony on Union Island and a recruitment drive on the Grenadine islands. The launch
is the culmination of eight years as the Sustainablr hn)t--rtl -- l---1 .--nt and
Biodiversity Conservation in the Grenadine Islands :. I I -..-* I ....I. ted by
the Centre for Resource Management and Environme.. .1 -1.. I 111 -J at the
University of the West Indies with funds from the Lighthouse Foundation based in
Germany. This final phase sees the transition to a Grenadine NGO, to continue
...rl-71;; -;; tainable livelihoods and coastal conservation.
Ii' i, ,, of the independent, Grenadine NGO is important to allow Grenadine
organizations t- ini--t their ideas about sustainability and development and give
direction to -..- .. says SusGren Project Manager Martin Barriteau. "We are
seeking Grenadine .. . i ...- Irom both Grenada and St. Vincent to sign up as
Members and to r ... i. I .. I of Directors."


During its first eight years in action, the Sustainable Grenadines Project has been
instrumental in bringing outside funding and generating benefits for the Grenadines.
Its focus has been both on the ground, such as small grants for mini-projects to
include litter clean-ups, signage and island beautification, developing a seamoss
farm, and starting an Ashton Lagoon restoration project, as well as at higher levels
of policy and planning, such as a transboundary initiative to harmonize conservation
objectives and marine resource users with Marine Multiuse Zones.
Recently, SusGren was proud to see the designation of the Sandy Island Oyster
Bed Marine Protected Area (SIOBMPA) on Carriacou become a reality after many
years of planning and facilitation.
SusGren has also been important for cultural exchange and attracting internal
tional talent. The project has partnered with Coady Institute and Dalhousie
University, Canada and has also c .I. I 1.. I .1 .i 1... . .. I ..
such as The Nature Conservancy, II,. ,i I... I I-. .... I 11. I ,,I 1 II .
US National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration, and the Society for the
Conservation and Study of Caribbean Birds.
Sustainable Grenadines Inc. will be a member organization consisting of represent
tatives from registered .... i.... .... .. Member organizations will be able to
help develop ] -li- i. i i i.. 1i, .1-3 having access to the many capacity
building and I I ... ..i .... i.... benefits that SusGren works tirelessly to secure.
For more information, contact Project Manager Martin Barriteau at (784) 485-8779 or
visit www.cavehill.uwi.edu/cermes/susgrenadinesIndex.html.

Join 25th International Coastal Cleanup this Month!
Jo-Anne Nina Sewlal reports: In the Caribbean, it is easy t I ....1.1 ..,. .. Ihe
beauty above the waterline and to forget the beauty that lies .. .11. i. -, .... of
us may not realise is that what we do above water affects the fauna and biodiversity
in the water.
A good example of this is the creation of marine debris. Marine debris is simply the
term given to any piece of garbage found in the ocean, for example ., i i ,. I .i.
was blown overboard. It may seem trivial but this plastic bag can I i i .....
For instance, the favourite food of sea turtles is jellyfish. To a hungry sea turtle a
plastic bag suspended in the water resembles a jellyfish. However, when the turtle
consumes it, it chokes and dies of asphyxia.
Another notoriously harmful piece of marine debris is the plastic ring that holds
six-packs of soft drink and beer cans together. These rings can get around the necks
of animals and of course they are not able to remove them. If they are adults it is
only a matter of time before it starts to: .. .. ... ... .- .......... arching
for food and escaping predators) and tl. .... .... I i i ... ,-..... As the
animal gains we .1i 11. .... 1 ... - tight around its neck that it cannot breathe
or feed and will ,.1, 11 I, .11. ., asphyxia or starvation.
If these rings entrap juveniles it restricts how much they can eat, so that they are
not fully nourished and are thus susceptible to diseases and predators. This lack of
nutrition also means that juveniles might not reach adulthood and reproduce.
Therefore the size of the population of that species is decreased.
Marine debris also washes up on our shores and is a source of diseases, as you
can get pierced by debris such as used hypodermic needles, rusty metal cans and
other items. We also have to look at marine debris from an economical point of view,
as items such as discarded polypropylene line can get stuck in propellers, causing
delays and costly repairs.
However, marine debris : ... 11i.,. Most everybody has some control over and
we can do something abot~l .1 *I ... the most obvious solution is that preventn
tion is better than cure". For instance we boaters should stow our garbage in a
secure way until we come ashore and dispose of it properly on land.
Every year in September there is an international beach clean-up organized by the
Ocean Conservancy. In my homeland, Trinidad & Tobago, the national coordinator
is the Caribbean Network for Integrated Rural Development. I -;;---r-- ---, if you
are on any island this month, to contribute a couple of hourn- I ... .... to this
cause. Check the national NGOs on the island for details. This is notjust an ordinary
beach clean-up: the type and abundance of marine debris is recorded in order to get
data to determine the source of this type of marine pollution in an effort to put an
end to it.
The 25th Annual International Coastal Cleanup is slated for Saturday,
September 25th.
For more information visit www.oceanconservancy.org.













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Cruisers' Fundraiser Nets


Big Bucks for the Education


of Carriacou Children

by Ed Kalinka


Have you ever attended one of those Boat
Jumbles where a handful of cruisers attempt
to sell their used boat gear? You know what
I'm talking about. They bring a sorry mixture
of worn out, broken junk and price it way
above its value. Well, the annual auction
and sale of boat gear at the Carriacou
Children's Education Fund (CCEF) fund
raiser is a breath of fresh air. Throughout
the year, cruisers with boat gear and other
items taking up too much room on their
overloaded yachts drop them off at the
Carriacou Yacht Club in Tyrrel Bay. The
Yacht Club collects and stores these donated
gems until the annual CCEF fundraiser
takes place. This year's fundraiser was again
held in Tyrrel Bay at the time of the Carriacou
Regatta during the last week of July.
The main event for the CCEF fundraiser is
the auction and sale of donated items. 'Wow.
There's some good stuff here," was one of the
most frequently heard comments at the
fundraiser. One oft 1...1.1..1.1 i ..
tionwasadonated .1.1. .i ....l le
haul-out at the Tyrrel Bay Yacht Haulout
(TBYH) facility, including travel-lifting out
and in, power washing, checking and five lay CCEFful
days. This year, the auctioned items include Thefuimd
ed WiFi amplifiers (one of which was a brand
new W iriel ,i . I i 1i i-1 I .1 I
by yachtIr ,. 1.11^ 1.... . .. i 1 I I I
top computer, power tools, a Data Scope containing a
digital fluxgate compass, i... .1 ..... attractive
brass oil lamps, a 12-volt band DVD
player with an auxiliary cable to connect an MP3
player, and three prints by cruising artist Anna Allegra
Desio of yacht Maxima Yachties and locals had the
opportunity to bid on a 14-inch TV, a Dell desktop
computer loaded with sc Fi ... i. .. ..1.1
person offshore liferaft, ... ... I II .. ... I .. .1
deal of lightly used electronics and boat hardware.
Arawak Dive donated a certificate for a two-person,
two-tank dive and LumbaDive donated a certificate for
an introductory dive course for two. Local restaurants
donated certificates for dinner at the Lazy Turtle Pizzeria,
th e ,I ,i.i. ... ....I II I ....I .. .. ...... ....
T h e, .h h .I I .. ... I I .... -
from Patty's Deli and a massage from Genevy's Massage.
Cruisers snapped them all up with big smiles.
While volunteer auctioneers were selling the more
valuable items, there was a lot more gear for sale at
the bargain tables. "How much for these two cabin


naraiser 2010 volunteers display the total amount raised to aat,
Is gathered 'make a difference, one kid at a time'

fans?" asked a prospective buyer.
"How much do you want to offer?" answered
the volunteer.
"Will you take fifty EC?"
"Sold. It's for the kids."
Reasonable offers turned into happy purchases of
T-shirts, hats, electronics,'- t *- books, DVD mov
ies, music CDs, handmal .11- ornate shopping
bags, note cards with island scenes, jewelry, charts
and cruising guides. Cruisers even snapped up hats
rumored (unfortunately falsely) to have the emblem of
an exclusive European bordello.
In addition to the auction, cruisers had a great time
at a lively dominoes tournament hosted by Ed and
Dorothy Kalinka (yacht Prism). The potluck barbecue
dinner hosted by Gordon and Judy Evans (yacht
Dreamcatcher) at the Carriacou Yacht Club was a feast.
After cruisers polished off their plates, Gordon raffled
off two bottles of rum, a T-shirt, a canvas shopping bag
and pistachios. If you like to eat, drink and be merry,
don't miss next year's fundraiser opening potluck.
The proceeds from this year's CCEF fundraiser will


be channeled into three areas to help disadvantaged
school children in Carriacou and Petite Martinique. A
disbursements committee composed of four cruisers
and three local businessmen will be allocating about
45 percent of the funds raised this year to supply full
scholarships and textbooks for four students at the TA
Marryshow Community College in Carriacou. Another
40 percent will go toward uniforms and school sup
plies for primary school students in Carriacou and
Petite Martinique. Finally, about 15 percent will be
allocated toward school lunches for li+--l'nt-^1
students at the Harvey Vale Primary ScL I i
we can't change the world, but we are damn
well going to try -one child at a time,"
explained John Pompa (yacht Second
Millennium).
John and his wife Melodye are the driving
force behind the CCEF fundraiser. "This pro
gram is now 11 years old and, with this
years proceeds of nearly EC$16,000, we
have raised a total of EC$124,500. All of the
money has gone, and will continue to go,
straight into education of kids. Not one
I . '. I''' I ..'. I

purely volunteer basis," said Melodye.
John added, "We have been doing this
fundraiser long enough that we can now see
positive results. Some of the kids that we
helped with uniforms and school lunches at
Sthe primary level have graduated from the
TA Marryshow Community ii i the
CCEF scholarship program. i ,, i n' kids
who graduated from the community college
on a CCEF scholarship is now a teacher in
the Carriacou school system. There are lim-
ited opportunities for kids in the islands.
Education is one way out of the downward
spiral. We can make a difference one kid at
a time. No, let me rephrase that. We are
making a difference one kid at a time."
Carriacou is a very cruiser-friendly island.
The local business owners and bus drivers
are among the friendliest people in the
Caribbean islands. The TBYH provides cruisers in
Tyrrel Bay with 24-hour WiFi in exchange for dona
tions to the CCEF on an honor basis. The Tyrrel Bay
anchorage is situated below 1240'N, which is the
southern extreme of the hurricane season "box" for
some yacht insurance companies. The holding is good
in sand patches and mooring balls have not taken up
the good anchoring spots. Boat boys will not pester
you before you can even get your anchor down, as in
some of the islands.
If you want to find deals on everything for your boat,
you can do it at next years CCEF fundraiser in Tyrrel Bay
at the end of July. Enjoy the fun and excitement of the
regatta and help with education of kids at the same time.
Come to Tyrrel Bay -l1.in- th- Carriacou Regatta.
Together, we are making 1i11 . through education.

Ed Kalinka and his wife, Dorothy, cruised the
Caribbean on Prism for more than three years before
heading west on their six year circumnavigation. They
arrived back in the Caribbean this past February.


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,.,0 ^ R^E GAI'* 1TTA FESTIVAL 2i0


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On the beach the older sloop Khaleb C has about six
shipwrights working on her. A new lead keel has been
. .1- 1 .i, ..1.i rtzroy "Nero" McLaren is boring
S. I i I I i Khalebhas ,I, i ,.i, ,,, I
45 feet, a new rudder and sternpos I' i -' i I
go can she really be ready? "Yes, Frank. She be
ready in time." And she is. Built by the late and leg
endary Cheeseman Patrice and sailed by Adrian
Patrice, she proves herself to be stiff and fast.
The 42-foot bright red Glacier, owned and sailed by
Calvin Patrice, while being a true Carriacou sloop used
to have the appearance of an 8 Metre yacht. Slim and
fast, she was difficult to beat, but not fast enough for
Calvin, so some weeks ago she was pulled ashore in
Windward. Her topside planking was removed, she
was lengthened and widened, and now she looks more
like a 12 Meter yacht.
Frank Bethel's Deep Vision has had a new transom,
keel, mast and sails and is ready to do battle. I am not
sure that a large "For Sale" sign on the transom is appro
private, though! The Margeta O, a past winner at Antigua
Classic Regatta built in Carriacou in 2007, has had a
refit. Owned and sailed by Cyril "Uncle C" Compton, she
will be stiff competition to Glacier and Deep Vision.


-__-r.





Summer Cloud built by Baldwin de Roche in Petite Main photo: Glacier, winner of all races in her class,
Martinique in 1997, has just arrived from Antigua. Te etite Ma quebuit Summer Cloud came
She is owned and sailed by Andrew Robinson of from Antigua to race
Woodstock Boatbuilders in Antigua. He and the guys Belo: Yachts sometimes loan sails
in his yard had recently i ,., 1. i her and fitted a
huge rig; seems like his :,II -1 1 i ilere.
1i ... i. I ... .I I -areGenesis, builtbyAlwyn
fo: I .- .. I ,... a new launch, Zemi, built
fo: I i. ..11 .i i- I ,,,. and Beauty, built last year
in Petite Martinique, owned and sailed by Jeff Stevens.
In the smaller sloop class we have the just launched
New Moon, built by Bernard Compton for Dave Goldhill.
The mast has just been stepped and the rig is being
finally fini I -1 I irove herself a fast, win
ning and I... i .1 i r size, she is easily han-
died by two when not racing. The smallest vessels are
Malutka, a 25 year-old decked-in Bequia double-ender,
skippered by Stanley Quashie; Small Pin, a delightful
double-ender or "two bow" boat sailed by Junior
Martineau; and Runaway sailed by Evelyn Enoe.
I am lucky enough to sail on Genesis for the Sunday
race. We are fortunate to have Winsley McLawrance in
the role of tactician.
Continued on page 16


XI
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'Anything Goes':





Improved of Carriacou and
Bequia Pride competed in by Orbi Oivierre
Long Open Boats Class A by Orbin O vierre

SIt got ah saying' dat time pass
an tings change, but when it
come to Carriacou Regatta, dat
not true. Nothin' change! Ah
goin' to Carriacou fo' about 40
years off an' on, an' when it
come to starting' de races, dem
always late an' ah ain't talking'
minutes, ah talking' hours. We on
4 Lesterre beach, Saturday de 31 Ist
July. Dey say race go' start ten
o'clock but, fo' me, ah know bet
ter. The course: leave Lesterre
upwind to ah mark in
Hillsborough, up to Windward,
< around ah navigation mark den
up to ah mark between Petit St.
Vincent an' Petite Martinique,
downwind to one at Sandy
Island, back to Hillsborough an'
finish. So ah like dat; dat is a good change ah course!
We start ah little after 12 o'clock, winds touchin' 12 knots an' skies fair to fine. Is ah
open race so all who want fo'sail could sai .... I I... I ,. ... I ,,. .
Double Bluff Iron Duke, an' Limbo; from C ... ... I .... .J.....
turn de Petit St. Vincent mark den hoist dem spinnaker. Downwind dem gone: all we
could do is watch in disbelief. Is de first time in me years ah racin' ah see spinnaker on
ah double ender! Ah will ha' fo' see what de race committee ha' fo' say 'bout dat when
we : I ..1, But all dem say when we protest was, is ah open race, anyt'in' goes. Ah
bit I c I but now we know. Dem cut we racin' spirit on de spot. But at least dem
say dem can't use dem tomorrow or dem will get disqualify. Amen to dat. I
Sunday is here an' de real t'ing start today: de best ah three, ah bit overcast an' de
weather man say rain an' gusts in squalls. Ah count 37 boats on de beach an' 13
sloops outside wid sails up, i, 1 I ii I o'clock reach an'dey say all boats
get re FI I tss going' 1 I ...' lightningg ain't readyso dey saylet
off de .1 I .. I In de mean time, dem got Double Bluffan' Bequia Pride holding' Above: Limbo from Bequia, skippered by sailmaker Alick Daniel
in de water like ah bunch ah damn fools. Ah could find ah better way to put it, but Below, left to right: Limbo, Lightning, Ace and Double Bluff at L'Esterre Beach,
leave it at dat. At last we go, Double Bluff, Bequia Pride an' Lightning, no Skyler. We preparing for the Saturday's Long Open Boats Race
go over de committee boat an' down to de Sisters. We headin' downwind an' Lightning
headin' north to another mark. We shouting' dem an' letting dem know is downwind
because ah consult me chart again fo' mek sure but no, he headin' north an' me an'
BequiaPride headin' down. Anyway, we do we course, Double Bluffleadin' all de way
to de finish. Is when we get ashore, we hear dem give Lightning de wrong chart. But
ah did looking' fo' she to complete she course. Instead, she do one lap an' come
ashore. An' ah hear dem gi' she ah horn at de finish line! On top ah dat, he ain't de
only one wid de wrong chart. In de 18-foot class, is all from Bequia an' Canouan:
Nerissa J1 an' Nerissa J2 from Canouan an' from Bequia is More Worries an' Uncle
Lacey in Devine de man ain't givin' up! Dey get dem chart sayin' go around a buoy
off Cistern Point, but when dey get down dey no mark. How dem go settle dat, ah
don't know. Is two race today: ah hope dem get through before night.
After three o'clock, we start de next race but nothing' ain't settle from de first one.
All boats goin' down, little one, big one an' in between, yo' know what ah mean. Ah
only hope we goin' right dis time but ah know ah following' de chart dem give me. We
i 1. 1 dusk, Lightning first, Skyler second, Bequia Pride third an' Double Bluff
,I I late an' everybody wet because it rainin'. All ah want is ah cold beer an'
ah warm sheet an' hope tomorrow go' be better.
Continued on next page








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Continuedfrom page 14 ... Decked Sloops Classes
Winsley has owned and sailed working boats up and down the islands all his life
and is now building to his own design a very fast looking 45-foot sloop in Windward.
Given the job of looking after the mainsheet I quickly become aware of how soft my
hands have become: blisters in the first half hour.
A singular lack of racing rules possibly makes life simpler and eliminates protests,
but one does need a degre f -f-- ..1- 1 -. --- ith very loud voices. There are no
handicaps, just a Big and -... 11I - i.. -1 I .1 1 I wins. What is more confusing is
that when the first boat crosses the start line, which could be an hour or so after the
planned start, that is the start of the race. Maybe you can't eliminate protests though;
Summer Cloud was so fast that Andrew was accused of using his engine. He loved it:
"Come down see, man. I have no engine in de boat!" No engine, no protest.


V N


Maristella, smallest of the Large Decked Sloops Class, in the Round the Island Race


I don't think there is any limit to the amount of sail that one may use. On the run,
spinnakers (which may be discarded from or loaned by yachts) are rapidly set.
Spinnaker poles are stout bamboos, maybe 30 feet long, lodged inside the bulwarks.
"Water sails", perhaps old jibs or tarpaulins, are set underneath the booms to catch
that extra bit of air.
After the racing, Hillsborough takes on the appearance of Carnival. This week is
not just about the racing, its about Carriacou, and there is a full program of activi
ties during the day and evening.
A wonderful event and not to be missed by anyone interested in traditional boat
building and Caribbean culture. Make it a date for next year.
Yachtsman, tugboat captain, and Past Vice-Commodore of the Antigua Yacht Club,
Frank Pearce commissioned the rebuilding of the Carriacou sloop Tradition in 2008.





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Continuedfrom previous page ... Open Boats
Tomorrow reach but not better. It rainin' like hell an' de weather man say it go' get
worse later in de day wid gusts up to 35 knots. 10 o'clock an' no sails set. Like
everybody holding' back. We set off about 12 o'clock downwind fo' de last time. But
no Lightning; she stay back fumblin' wid she sails. We turn de Sisters an' upwind we
coming Skyler in de lead, Double Bluff an' Bequia Pride battlin' it out. But in de east
,. ii.. I I. I an'visib.i., II...'low. As we get by Sandy Island, all hell break loose.
i .ith tack ..."I.. I shore but we can't see nothing We say we go tack
fo' get away from de reef. We sails flappin', we mainsheet tangle around de traveler.
Dat is de time ah know why dey call dem boat double-ender because v--t -t -
astern just as fast as we been goin' ahead! We manage to get it clear an' .' II 11.I


Left to right: In Long Open Boats Class B, Ace, Limbo and the century-old seine boat
Iron Duke running wing-and wing
goin' north dis time. Lucky t'ing it ain't last long as it begin fo' clear. We just in time
fo' tack away from Jagadam. After dat, it get calm an' nice, still rainin' but we finish
de course. We passing' smaller boats all de way in de water, trying' to free demself ah
hope somebody come fo' rescue dem.
We get back in time to see de sloops start, 13 ah dem. Dem look real good goin'
downwind wid dem spinnaker of all colours. Ah watch all de way but it look kinda
one-sided to me. It got one by de name ah Glacier. It was one ah de old ones but dey
rebuilt it. Dey lengthen it an' give it more beam an, of course, more mast and sails:
fo' tell de truth ah lot more dan de others. It beat de second sloop by 20 minutes to
de finish in ah ten-mile course, not fair. De last one finish at dusk around 7 o'clock.
Ah know dem fellers goin' hit some good Jack Iron fo' warm dem tonight.
Prize-givin' was ah bit on de flat side because it rainin' all de time an' de only t'ing
West Indians run away from is rain. An' to dampen things ah bit more is when dey
announce Lightning in de overall first position fo' de Big Open Boats. Is den every
body realize dat dem don't know what dem doin'. Ah tell yo' what, ah enjoy de sailin',
squall an' all, fo' is ah long time ah ain't flap one at sea. But ah will advise de Sailin'
Committee fo' get dem act together before next year because ah sure Mr. Rigg ain't
please wid dis one!
Boatbuilder, racer and fisherman Orbin Olivierre is the Commodore of the Bequia
Sailing Club.





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. 0ARRIACOU *EGATTA FESTIVAL


J uly was a sleepy month, with few yachts anchored in Tyrrel
Bay and the hurricane season fast approaching. So it was
with great pleasure that Carriacou Regatta 2010's Mount
Gay-sponsored yacht race series welcomed 25 entries for the
2010 Doyle Two-Handed Round Carriacou Race.
This race always attracts one or two really pretty yachts and this
year was no exception, with Susie Stanhope's 56-foot sloop, Spirited
Lady, and Frank Pearce's 50-foot schooner, Samadhi. Both added a
touch of class to the fleet, which was split into three classes: Cruising,
Fun and Multihull.
Race officer Randy Mainwaring from Grenada started cruisers at
0830 on Friday morning, July 30th, with winds light out of the east
southeast. As the leading yachts had rounded the windward reef, a
significant squall, the downside of summer regattas, greeted the rest
of the fleet and permitted the leaders to escape. Mike Bingley's
Beneteau 38, Tulaichean II 'i.. as Team Palm Tree Marine, record
ed a fine win, with Tim -" I II S&S 44, Saga, second and Jerry
Stewarts Hughes 38, Bloody Mary, third.
In Fun Class, with frequent winner Andy Smelt from Yellow Bird suf
fering from dengue, the race was wide open. After 15 years of compete
in th- r-itta, Uwe Gerstmann and his Salai, with new sails,
: 11 I I his first win. The 40-foot Joshua-type steel ketch tri
umphed over Samadhi, with third place going to the immaculate
41-foot Dutch steel cutter, Boyo, skippered by Bob van der Hoeven.
The hotly favoured catamaran, Don Marmo's Ned Kelly, was not
equal to the squall, i-in. --i-tory to the aluminium cat Kayen, skip
pered by Auro. Paul * i ., Warram cat, Stillus, recorded second.
Mount Gay rum punch made to a secret Bajan recipe enlivened the
post-race party at the Lazy Turtle pizzeria, where the race was relived
all evening.
.... ,, i the diehards on the Saturday, when the Island
W.,l -i ..1 i Frigate Island Race was sailed in fine condi


7FFMitRcces:

Wmieabkers. W"TO dpical

Wave and a Touch of Class

_-by Jerry Stewart


with crewmembers Sebastian and Judy
Left: Salai, overall winner of FunM Class
Above: Yachts raced into the sunset
Insets: A knowing look from Jerry as he dispenses
Skippers' Briefing info; and Spirited Lady taking the
cut on south side of Frigate Island
tions (although a little lumpy on the northeast corner
of Frigate). Saga won Cruising Class convincingly, with
Bloody Mary in second and Tulaichean II third. In Fun
Class, Samadhi beat Jon Constantine's Feeling 39,
Imagine, and Salai came in third.
On Regatta Sunday the yachts don't race as we take
the opportunity to watch the local sloops while
anchored off Sandy Island sampling the major spon
sor's product. Sandy Island is now part of Carriacou's
marine park, which we hope will assist in its preserve
tion and management.
Monday's Budget Marine Race featured typical Tropical Wave weather. Saga, while
well in front, tried to relocate the tiny islet of Jack A Dan without success and the
ensuing delay permitted Bloody Mary to achieve her first win in this year's regatta.
Tulaichean II was second and Alex Johnstone's Chao Lay third.
Dominique Weber's Jeanneau Sun Kiss 47, Sanctus, finally found her form to win Fun
Class, with Salai second and Samadhi third. Kayen soloed in the Multihull Class.
Overall, after tiebreakers in both Cruising and Fun classes, Bloody Mary won
Cruising and Salai Fun Class. Kayen was champion multihull.
I would like to thank race officer Randy Mainwaring, sponsors Mount Gay, Doyle
Sails, Island Water World, Budget Marine, Fidel Productions, Round House and Lazy
Turtle -this regatta could not run without your support.
And thank you, competitors. Please come again next year!
Yacht skipper and tugboat captain Jerry Stewart is the proprietor of Thrrel Bay
Yacht Haulout.


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NEWS

Gouyave's Junior Sailing Talent in Grenada
On June 27th, 23 talented young sailors competed in
the first Gouyave Sailing School Junior Sailing
Championship, organized by instructor Kevin Banfield.
A new feature of the village's annual Fisherman's
Birthday celebrations, the event was sponsored by
Budget Marine, with Catfish Boats, Marine
Management, the Grenada National Sailing
Academy, the Grenada Yacht Club, the Grenada
Sailing Association and the Grenada Sailing Festival
providing additional support.
The 16 competitors from the Gouyave Sailing School
and seven sailors from the Grenada National Sailing
Academy had a range of experience, so there were
two Classes: Beginners and Advanced. In the series of
exciting races all sailors showed the competitive skills
and race tactics they had learned, along with the
ability to deal with changing conditions in a strength-
ening breeze.
Nicholas George, manager of Budget Marine
Grenada, presented medals and certificates to every-


one who took part, plus trophies and medals to the
first, second and third place winners in each Class:
Beginners' Class
1)Jakim Young
2) Kivon St. Paul
3) Sherkim Robertson
Advanced Class
1) Kwesi Paul
2) Noah Bullen
3) Dennis Bernadine
Thanks also go to Nick Walters of the Grenada
National Sailing Academy and Michael McQueen,
Junior Sailing Instructor at the Grenada Yacht Club,
for their on-the-water safety supervision and race sup-
port, and to Barry Alexis for his excellent job oversee-
ing some busy start lines.
For information on the Gouyave Sailing School con-
tact Kevin Banfield at (473) 533-7142, and the
Grenada National Sailing Academy contact Nick
Walters at (473) 420-9411.

J/24s Top St. Lucia's Rodney Bay-Marigot-Return Race
Despite an unsettled weather forecast, nine boats
turned out for the second annual Emancipation Day
Race organized by the St. Lucia Yacht Club on July
31st. The fleet ranged in size from a 16-foot Fireball din-
ghy to Breeze Away, a 50-foot sloop, to a scattering of


J/24s, two of which were crewed by youth teams.
Race conditions were great: a 12- to 14-knot north-
east breeze for the 10:00AM start off Reduit Beach. The
J/24 Claudia Vogeltook an early lead, with the main
fleet closely grouped as they headed towards a
rounding mark at Pigeon Point. The fleet then headed
south to Marigot Bay on a run, with the J/24s putting
up spinnakers and in the lead. Just outside Rodney
Bay, near Barrel O' Beef Rock, the two-crew Fireball
capsized. The IGY safety RIB was close by and towed
the boat back to the Club.
Claudia Vogel was first to reach the finish line outside
Marigot Bay, followed by sister J/24s Attitude and
Jabal. After lunch in Marigot Bay, the fleet started its
return leg at 2:00pM.
Overall first three places on handicap went to the
J/24s Claudia Vogel, Attitude and Jabal.
Congratulations to the youth team of Luis Meixner,
Marcus Sweeney, Stephanie Lovell, Jasia King and
Scott Anthony on Claudia Vogel.
Thanks go to prize sponsors Heineken, Digicel, Rain
Forest Skyrides, St Lucia Rums, Cafe Ole, as well as
Edwin Chavez from IGY Marina for assistance with
race support, Ted Bull and Adam Slayed (Rodney Bay
start and finish line) and Bob Hathaway from Marigot
Bay Marina (Marigot finish line). Special thanks to the
organizers Sean Fuller and Danielle De Rouck.
For more information visit www.stluciayachtclub.com.

Sint Maarten Yacht Club's Keelboat Series Winners
On July 3rd, the Sint Maarten Yacht Club held the
prizegiving for their 2010 Keelboat Series and the
S unofficial opening of the new club bar, big
enough for the 80 skippers, crew and sup-
porters representing the 16 local boats racing
in the series over the last nine months.
Homemade, complimentary food and bever-
ages were served by volunteers.
While last year saw a small number of boats
racing, the fleet increased to two classes this
year: Spinnaker and Non-Spinnaker.
Winner of the Spinnaker Class was the
Beneteau 36.7 Kick 'em Jenny, skippered by
lan Hope-Ross. Hope-Ross and his crew fought
three Melges, Coors Light Sailing Team,
Budget Marine Too and French Connection,
as well as the Open 750 Panic Attack. Later in
the season these were joined by Wild, a Kiwi
35. Most boats in this class also race in international
competitions, missing more local racing than those in
the Non-Spinnaker Class. But with Kick em Jenny miss-
ing only one race of the series, she took an easy lead
of 12 points over Coors Light Sailing Team skippered by
Frits Bus. Third was Jan van den Eynde's Panic Attack.
The competition in the Non-Spinnaker Class was
fiercer, with only two points separating first and sec-
ond. Both Garth Steyn's Catalina 36, Pelican Marina
Residences, and Ronnie van Sittert's Contention 33,
Tamaya, missed few races and were very close in the
results. While Tamaya often beat her rival over the line,
Pelican Marina Residences had higher overall points
for sailing more races and thus placed first. Third was
Sir Bobby Velasquez's LEsperance.
The first race for the Keelboat Series 2011 will be on
November 21st, open to visitors as well as local boats.
For more information visit keelboats@smyc com.

Barbados Sailing Team at 2010 CAC Games, Puerto Rico
The Barbados Olympic Association and the Barbados
Sailing Association sent eight athletes and two man-
agers to compete in sailing events at the Central
American and Caribbean Games, held in Cabo Rojo,
Puerto Rico, July 17th to August 1st. Barbados was rep-
resented in the Sunfish, Laser Radial and Laser
Standard dinghies, and in the J/24 class.


The sailing conditions were not the best, as the cours-
es were one-and-a-half hours' tow/sail away from the
beach venue, and the winds were stubbornly light
and fluky. However, the sailors shared the waters with
dolphins and sea turtles, and the Bajan sailors learned
every day, both on the water and off!
The competition was fierce not surprising when
one is racing against Olympic and world-class sailors
in all fleets. That is one of the very things that make
our CAC Games so important for our regional athletes
to compete in.
Congratulations go out to the Barbados sailors: Amy
Cox placed 11th in Laser Radial, Jason Tindale placed
18th in the Laser Standard, Charlie Gloumeau placed
15th on the Sunfish, and the J/24 team comprised of
lan Mayers, Kwami Hinds, Eddie Cheeseman, Russell
Corrie and Peter Thompson placed 8th.

Caribbean 1500 to Include Bahamas Class
The Cruising Rally Association will be expanding its
21st Annual Caribbean 1500 to include a Bahamas
Class, open to power and sail boaters. It leaves
Hampton, Virginia on November 1st, the same day the
main Caribbean 1500 fleet leaves for Tortola, to sail
directly to Marsh Harbor in the Bahamas. The Bahamas
Class fleet will include divisions for racers and cruisers.
Bahamas Class Ralliers will enjoy all of the pre-event
social events, briefings, and inspections of the
Caribbean 1500. There will also be lectures about explor-
ing the Bahamas. Kate Christensen and Bernie Jakits,
owners of RogueWave Yacht Sales in Annapolis, will lead
the Bahamas Class on their new Valiant 42 Mahalo.
Cruising Rally Association events retain some of the
competitive elements of traditional sailboat races, but
offer social, educational and technological enhance-
ments that broaden the appeal of the events to cou-
ples, families and racers experienced and first-timers.
For more information visit www. carib 1500. com.

Join Kate for 6th Annual Golden Rock Regatta!
Juul Hermsen, Committee Chair for the 6th Annual
Golden Rock Regatta, to be held November 13th
through 17th, has announced that the Caribbean-
based, gaff-rigged 12 Metre sloop Kate has been
chartered by a US team to participate in the event.
Launched in 2006, Kate was built on St. Kitts by Philip
Walwyn and was precisely designed to the "First Rule"
(1907) of the International 12 Metre specification. She
has been featured in Wooden Boat magazine and
other international boating publications, and Wooden
Boat is sponsoring the wooden vessel class in this
year's Golden Rock.
The Golden Rock Regatta fleet gathers in Great Bay
at Philipsburg, St. Maarten for the start of Race One: a
run up to Road Bay, Anguilla. The next day, the fleet
races to Gustavia, St. Barth's, followed by a single-leg
run to a finish line off the cliffs below Fort Oranje on
Statia (St. Eustatius.) On November 16th, in commem-
oration of the first salute accorded the flag of the
United States, the First Salute Race will take place in
front of Fort Oranje, followed that evening by a party
and trophy presentation at the fort.
The Golden Rock Regatta has four races going from
island to island. Participants from surrounding islands are
invited to join at any point of the regatta. Each day has
its trophy and entries are accepted on a day-by-day
basis at a fee of US$70 per race for CSA members.
For more information visit www.goldenrockregatta.com.

Around Hispaniola Race: A Unique Experience
The Around Hispaniola Race offers sailors in the
Caribbean a challenging sailing event and a unique
cultural experience a three-week race/rally around
the island of Hispaniola, stopping at 12 ports, marinas...
Continued on next page













... ... . page
:,:I :' :. :i-.: :,,i ,-- 1l -.- Dominican Republic and at
beautiful Ile-d-Vache in Haiti.
The event runs from November 16th to December
5th, covering 1,300 nautical miles in 16 sailing days.
For more information visit wwwvueltalahispaniola. com.

Happy 25th ARC-iversary!
2010 is a significant milestone year for the famous
Atlantic Rally for Cruisers, as the 25th edition of the














ARC will set off from Las Palmas de Gran Canaria to
Rodney Bay, St. Lucia this November. To help cele-
brate the occasion, event organizers World Cruising
Club hope to hear from some of those who took part
in the historic first rally in 1986, especially from anyone
who was under 16 years old when they sailed in
ARC'86. They'd like to know your story, your memories
of the ARC, and whether you still sail now as an adult.
The 2010 rally has already achieved full capacity,
almost three months ahead of previous years.
Commenting on the popularity of the 25th ARC,
Managing Director of World Cruising Club, Andrew
Bishop, said: "In its 25-year history, the ARC has
become the 'must-do' event on the cruising calendar.
However, interest in the ARC 2010 has been truly aston-
ishing and we have had to start a waiting list already."
For more information visit www.worldcruising.com/arc.

Support Bequia Youth Sailing
Renata Goodridge reports: In the early days of the
J/24 Windward Islands fleet, the Bequia Rotary Club
made a fantastic gesture and bought a J/24 for
young Bequians to sail, train on and race. However,
there is no consistent maintenance funding for the
boat. The young Bequia sailors have struggled over
the years with support occasionally but generously


offered, and have managed to keep the boat sailing
and racing through the Bequia Rotary Club.
The young Bequia Team raced their J/24 in the
Mount Gay Rum/Boatyard Regatta in Barbados in
May this year and beat a boat in a regatta for the first
time (although later disqualified for rule infringement).
Other J/24 owners very generously donated equip-
ment in Barbados at the Mount Gay Rum/Boatyard
Regatta. The Bequia boat really is in need of some
help now. Many other J/24s have found corporate
sponsorship, as the cost of maintaining these boats is
significant. But the Bequia boat and team need bet-
ter support if they are to continue to improve, and for
others to benefit from what the Bequia Rotary Club
very kindly set in motion.
S Please contact Sylvester Simmons of the Bequia
Rotary Club at (784) 458-3412 or 458-3484 if you can
help in any way.

January's Mount Gay Rum Round Barbados Race
The Barbados Cruising Club in association with Mount
Gay Rum and The Barbados Tourism Authority is orga-
nizing a very special sailing race in Barbados on
January 21st, 2011.
The tradition of racing around Barbados started back
in the days of the trading schooners and continues to
this day. The event will be held annually on January
21st a bank holiday in Barbados in honour of Errol
Barrow, the island's first Prime Minister and one of the
founder members of The Barbados Cruising Club.
Classes include Classics, Monohull Open (unlimited
length) and Multihull Open (unlimited length). The aim
is simple the fastest time around Barbados.
For more information visit
www.mountgayrumroundbarbadosrace.com.

Voiles de Saint Barth 2011 Dates Set
The second edition of the Voiles de Saint Barth will
take place between April 4th and 9th, 2011, as con-
firmed by Francois Tolede and Luc Poupon, represent-
ing St. Barth's Yacht Club, organizers of the event.
Following a well-received first edition this past April,
this date on the Caribbean racing calendar is now
well established, and the aim is to make it bigger.
The first Voiles de Saint Barth brought together some
30 magnificent yachts, including classics, maxis and
racer-cruisers from all around the Caribbean and the
United States.
Francois says, "We would like to see this event become
a fixture on the calendar and one of the must-attend
events for skippers and owners. We paid particular


attention to taking care of the boats, setting up top-
quality races on the water and ensuring everyone
enjoyed themselves back on the island. It would seem
that everyone racers, owners, spectators and partners
-were more than pleased with the event. We are look-
ing forward to seeing even more boats here in 2011."
All of the major regatta partners from 2010 have
already confirmed they will be alongside the St.
Barth's Yacht Club in 2011, starting with the watch-
maker Richard Mille. Taittinger and Remy Cointreau
will also be there.
Skipper Loick Peyron says, "The setting is magnificent.
If the Voiles de Saint Barth did not exist, someone
would have to invent it. It is in place now and they
have intelligently brought together all sorts of boats. It
is fascinating watching them all sailing together.
Everything that makes sailing so interesting can be
found here and the concept has a great future
ahead of it."
For more information visit www.lesvoilesdesainibarth.com.

New Start Line for Transcaraibes 2011
The annual Trans-Caribbean rally to Cuba will start
from Saint Martin in 2011. Special pre-rally haulout
packages will be available.
For more information visit www transcaraibes.com.

World ARC 2012 Entry List Open
World ARC, the round the world yacht rally, is gear-
ing up for another circumnavigation and the entry list
has opened for the 2012 edition. World ARC 2012 will
leave St. Lucia in January 2012, cruising across the
World's great oceans on a circumnavigation of the
globe, returning to the Caribbean 16 months later.
Twenty-nine yachts from 13 nations are currently par-
ticipating in the 2010 Rally, which set off from St. Lucia
in January. Since then they have cruised into the
Pacific via the Panama Canal, down to Ecuador and
on to the Galapagos Islands and the Marquesas.
During April and May, they cruised through the
Marquesas, Tuamotos and Society Islands before
departing from Bora Bora in mid-May heading towards
the Cook Islands, Tonga, Fiji and Vanuatu. As this issue
of Compass goes to press, the fleet is in Australia,
regrouping for the leg across the top of Australia to
Darwin and the start of the Indian Ocean stage.
The daily logs being uploaded onto the World ARC
website provide insights into the experience see
www.worldcruising.com/worldarc2010/dailylogs.aspx.
For more information
visit www.worldcruising, com/worldarc. aspx














0I' 0; 0 OG TENC RBENin BY.Nl] F.B FRANK d.nl4Vl INTNlOl[]


SOUTH COAST OF THE


DOMINICAN REPUBLIC


When "the Caribbean" is discussed by cruising sailors and cruising guide authors,
it is generally meant to denote the Eastern Caribbean: the Lesser Antilles.
The Caribbean 1500 yacht rally leaves the Chesapeake Bay in late fall of each year
and heads for the British Virgin Islands. Many refer to this trip as "coming south to
the Caribbean". The lure of the Virgin Islands, Antigua and points south such as
Grenada has always stirred our visions of palm trees and warm weather, of white
sand beaches and beautiful coves. Additionally, as most sailors coming south come
from Canada and the United States, the vast majority speaks English and is comfort
able with those islands that use the English language.
The result of our mindset has been to create the "beaten track". It is not a bad
track, just one that has been sailed so many times.
The Caribbean is Much Larger
The Caribbean is actually a much larger geographic location than just the Lesser
Antilles (the Virgin, Leeward and Windward Islands). It encompasses islands that
include Cuba and Hispaniola -the two largest in the Caribbean -as well as many
others including the ABC islands: Aruba, Curacao and Bonaire. It also includes
Jamaica, the Cayman Islands, Puerto Rico and the San Bias Islands.
Mainland countries such as Venezuela and Colombia are also part of the
Caribbean; so are Central American countries that border the Caribbean Sea. Most
sailors would agree that the Caribbean extends from Cuba in the northwest to
Trinidad in the southeast and includes everything in between.
How is it then that the Lesser Antilles so domina ...... ..i .... ...
community that they are the islands most visited, i' i .. .. I
thus, except for those sailors arriving from across the Atlantic, the hardest to get
to? Simply put, we accept what we are told and we have been told that the Eastern
Caribbean is the place to cruise in the Caribbean. Yet if you look at the map on page
4 of this issue of Compass, you'll see that either Cuba or Hispaniola (the Dominican
Republic and Haiti) could easily encompass virtually every other island in the
Caribbean and have space left over. However, our perception of those islands is that
they are hard to negotiate because they are Spanish speaking, or in the case of
Haiti, French speaking. Jamaica is English r -.l-i- but has had bouts of high
crime that has kept sailors away. Cuba has 1.11 ..I problem: for US citizens, it
is off limits.
The result is that the western part of the Caribbean, and in particular the north
western part, has been forgotten. This area is not frequently cruised as a destination
but used more for stopping points on the way east. Luper6n, on the north shore of
the Dominican Republic, is an excellent example. Those -r'i.7li boats that come
south from the East Coast of the US and do not take th 11-1. route take the
"thorny path". That path is taken by island hopping through the Bahamas and the
Turks & Caicos and then going southeast to Luper6n. From Luper6n one makes
one's eating along the north shore of the Dominican Republic, not -r*'' n.
destination but as a means to get to the Mona Passage to transit the ,,I, -, ,
Puerto Rico to the Virgin Islands. The Dominican Republic is overlooked, and all of
its immense shoreline and many virgin and pristine harbors bypassed.
Easier Easting


Isla Saona, a national park, is an idyllic spot
to start a forgotten Caribbean' cruise


We could, as an alternative, come i. .... i. ... I ..d Passage on a reach and
avoid all that beating to windward. TI ... i ., I .. which cuts between Haiti
to port and Cuba to starboard, is usually a reach to a broad reach headed south. It
is a safe passage without a need to call at any harbor in Haiti or Cuba. The US naval
base is at Guantanamo at the southeast corner of Cuba and the US-owned island of
Navassa is just west of the corner of Haiti. (The United States uses Navassa from
time to time to stage naval vessels that work at drug interdiction.) Going through the
Windward Passage is normally an enjoyable sail under prevailing conditions, and a
safe one as well.
Once through the Passage, to starboard is Jamaica -an easy landfall with the
wind and current in your favor. To port is the island of Ile-a-Vache, Haiti, which is
both beautiful and very safe. And then you have the south coast of the Dominican
Republic. Because the DR is so mountainous, after sunset the heavy cold air from
the mountaintop falls to sea level (katabatic wind) and causes a stall of the
tradewinds within a three to five-mile shadow of the coast. As a result, eating is
not difficult. Other times, if it is early in the tradewind season, a Norther will come
through and allow you to sail on a close reach while going east, but unlike on the
north shore, you will not be on a lee shore and will not have the Atlantic swell and
sea to contend with.
However you get to the Northwest Caribbean, you will not be disappointed.
A West-Bound Cruise


Lets take a cruise from the eastern end of the Dominican Republic to the western
end of Jamaica. In such a cruise we can experience the Caribbean and its culture
through three different colonial lenses -Spanish, French .. i i ..1. i as well as
experience the current contemporary cultures. The DR is 1.1I 11. I inland excur
sions, extraordinary anchorages and harbors, and Latin music and culture. Ile-a-
Vache, Haiti is the best example of Haitian culture in a setting that is both beautiful
and safe. The island has no cars, no electricity and is equivalent to a visit back in
time. Visiting Jamaica, "the island of wood and water" as it was once called, is an
experience that has no equal in the Caribbean. It is the center of Caribbean-African
culture and art and a visit will leave you with impressions that will last a lifetime.
The Blue Mountains, Jamaican coffee, jerk pork and chicken and Red Stripe Beer
are all unique. Best of all, you will see Jamaican smiles and Jamaican sunsets.
How much time the entire trip from the eastern DR to western Jamaica would take
depends on how much detail you want out of the trip, but an entire cruising season
(November through June) would not be too much.
Continued on next page


FULL SERVICE BOATYARD



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Crossword Solution

ACROSS 39) BINARY 16) RUT
1) REGULUS 40) CYGNUS 18) GEMINI
6) MIA 43) MINIAPP 20) ALDEBARAN
9) NIGHT 44) BEARER 22) STEER
10) WISH 47) LOL 23) RED
11) ARIA 48) NAVIGATE 26) BATS
15) ANTARES 49) COAL 29) SEE
17) ORB 50) TAURUS 30) SOU
19) UP 51) DUST 31) HEMISPHERE
20) ALTAIR 52) HER 32) DOUBLE
21) VEGA DOWN 33) BUOY
22) STAR 1) ROAD 36) CAPELLA
24) AST 2) GAIA 37) BY
25) DUBHE 3) URSA 38) SPICA
27) LIT 4) DIM 40) CORVIS
28) DENEB 5) WHEEL 41) UM
29) SEA 6) MINOR 42) SIRIUS
30) SOUTH 7) IS 44) BOAT
32) DIPPER 8) AHAB 45) REAR
34) SET 12) ANKAA 46) MAID
35) AQUARIUS 13) REPAID
38) SHIP 14) BOARD














-ontinuedfrom previous page
The DR's South Coast
ISLA SAONA AND CASA DE CAMPO
We find ourselves anchored off of the southeastern end of the Dominican Republic
at the island of Saona. The island is part of a national park reserve and is virgin:
there are no hotels or infrastructure. Over the 42 square miles of the island, you will
find only a few small settlements and fishermen's shacks.
Day-trippers take tourists (from Bayahibe, just to the west) to the island to spend
the day on catamarans or powerboats. The sand on the beach is as white as any you
will find in the Caribbean and the water turquoise and clear. We are anchored in ten
feet of water at the northwest corner of the island and will spend the day gunkholing
Paso de Catuano, which is the pass between the mainland of the DR and the island
of Saona. There are two cays at the eastern end, facing the Mona Passage, and we
can spend our day there swimming and exploring. We were fortunate in the morning
to hail a Dominican
fisherman to our boat
and we purchased some
beautiful fresh snapper
for a price that we did
not expect (pleasantly).
When we returned to
the boat we cooked the
fresh fish with rice
before watching a great
sunset as we listened

music of the DR.
In the morning we
bo*r4J c head a few miles west
S. and call at the Casa de
Campo Marina. This
Take a taste of 16th century Europe at Altos de Chavon will be our :il ; on
this part ol I, I.rip.
i ll II,,,. ... I1 i)
in spend the rest of the day in the marina area, Ih I I -n .I I .11
rI IBoI I CWe will take a little lunch in the courtyard with beautiful views of
the harbor. The next morning we can go to Altos de Chavon, which is located within
the Casa de Campo complex. Altos de Chavon is a replica of a 16th century
Mediterranean town, complete with Coliseum. As we walk the cobblestone streets we
notice that we are elevated and that we have wonderful views of the river and land
scapes below.
BOCA CHICA AND INLAND TRIPS
The following morning we continue west. We have the current with us as well as a
20 knot easterly, which is the ..i.... adewind. We head for Boca Chica, a har
bor located just a few miles e. -, .,,I Domingo, the capital of the Dominican
Republic. The sail is good and we make Boca Chica easily by mid afternoon. Once
inside the harbor we can anchor or take a mooring or slip at the marina facilities,
which are new and very accommodating. Boca Chica is a tourist town filled with
Latin music and restaurants. There are miles of white sand beaches.
From Boca Chica we can easily access Santo Domingo where we can visit the old


colonial city. Santo ....... is so large and so modern that we can also restock
our boat at any one I 11. immense supermarkets as well as hunt down some
replacement parts we might need. If we are inclined we can head inland the fol
lowing day and visit the mountain towns of Jarabacoa and Costanza. The DR has
the highest mountain range in the Caribbean, with Pico Duarte being over 10,000
Si 1..1, The mountain towns are filled with artists' colonies, waterfalls and
..i... II panoramas.
From Boca Chica we head west to Las Salinas and Palmar de Ocoa (Province of Bani).
These two towns are located at the east side of the bay just west of Punta Beata.
LAS SALINAS TO ISLA BEATA
Both Las Salinas and Palmar de Ocoa, six miles north of Las Salinas, are small
towns in the south of the DR, which area is largely agricultural. The scenery and the
anchorages are beyond description.
Across the bay is the town of Barahona (Province of Barahona). If we choose to sail
across the bay we can obtain a safe anchorage close to the Coast Guard station and
then make our excursion inland to Lago Enriquillo. Lake Enriquillo is the largest
lake and lowest point in the Caribbean, and the lowest point on any ocean island. It
is one of only a few saltwater lakes in the world inhabited by crocodiles. You will find
the vast majority of them going about their business on Isla Cabritos, an island in
the lake. There is also a plethora of other wildlife.
Once we depart from Barahona we head down the bay to Isla Beata; a short sail of
just a few hours with the wind on our beam or aft of it. We can cut through the Beata
Channel, which carries a controlling depth of about 12 feet. Once through the chan
nel we round up at the northwest corer of the island and drop anchor in ten feet of
clear water. We wonder why there are no other sailboats anchored here. The boat is
still and the fishermen have finished for the day. We watch the sunset to the west
and call it a day.
BAHIA DE LAS AGUILAS
The next day we make our last port of call in the DR: Bahia de las Aguilas (Province
of Perdenales). It is less than a two-hour sail north of Isla Beata. The Bay of Eagles
is a bay of approximately five miles' span. There are no roads, homes or hotels. You
will see only a white sand beach -and miles of it. Our anchor will drop in clear, clear
water and we will be protected from wind and sea in normal tradewind conditions.
There are a few fishermen going about their business, but otherwise no one else is
there. After we have anchored in the northwest part of the bay we can dinghy to the
beach where we find no footsteps in the sand.
In General
For those that have yet to cruise the Dominican Republic, there are a number of
questions that should be addressed. You do not need to speak Spanish but if you do
speak a little, it is helpful. As far as safety is concerned, I know of no reports of any
attack against a cruising sailboat in the Dominican Republic. Some ports have had
reported dinghy and outboard motor theft, but not where proper prevention was
taken. The authorities are friendly but can appear intimidating as they are in mili
tary uniform. Most are quite nice; a few will try to push you for tips and gifts.
Clearing in and out of the DR is fairly straightforward and can be accomplished in
any one of many ports in the country.
For detailed information on the DR relating to cruising through the country, see
the free cruising guide, which can be easily downloaded at
1 ....... .... 1 . .. .. ... .. .I ..
... 1 . .. .. ... I . i lasAguilasto Ile-aVache, Haiti.


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PRCVJCENCEA



by Bernie Katchor


Australia 31, our 43-foot ketch, had been waiting for me and my wife Yvonne in
Isla Mujeres, Mexico, for eight months and was itching for a sail. Good-byeing all our
friends, saying, as one does, "we11 ill n.- -t..i" -. t really knowing if this will hap-
pen, we headed out to sea with .... I -i 1 forecast, all sails set.
,i,,, south towards Honduras, we moved rapidly along through the water but
the ,ii Stream current held us back. Progress was far too slow so we tacked for
Cuba. After a few hours this too seemed futile, as we were being pushed north by
the current, so back to the south again. For five days, we repeated this process,
sometimes once a day, often many times a day, and made only 300 miles away from
Isla Mujeres.
Decision time. Cuba was appealing but now was too far away and Honduras, if we
made it, was a long way to the west. As we intended to pass through
the Panama Canal, we headed through the banks towards Providencia.
The wind god agreed and we made 300 miles in two days, sighting
the spectacular green peaks of Providencia on our horizon as we
bowled along.
Sk ee..... thel, 1. I i,.j, .y ei I i ,, the reds and greens
S . d rig .1 ..... .. I 1.1 ... -1 the world, which is
opposite). The folk from the Northwest Caribbean Net (6209 fre
quency at 1400 Zulu), who took our position twice a day and gave
us weather reports, told us to go carefully between the beacons as
reef abounds.
Si 11 J 1 we motored into nine feet of water and the anchor bit.
i I w n a bay protected from all but a westerly wind. All
around us was the green of Providencia's jagged hills with scattered
houses and churches by the dozen near the shore, an appealing sight
after a week ol I I .... about. Connected by a 500-metre decrepit
bridge at the h I I a bay on our west side was Catalina Island,
with a long paved walk along its shore and, again, scattered, very
colourful houses.
Cold beer in one hand, binoculars in the other, we absorbed the
grand sight. "This gives me a good feeling. We will be here for a while,"
Yvonne said and I murmured agreement.
I found a Colombian flag and the yellow quarantine flag and hoisted
them better late than never and we showered and slept.
Next -rnin i w--1- f-r tBh- --vrf -nd f-a;nd u-. dock to tie the
1... 1. i1 I . 11 i i i 1 1 I .. .. I I .- People called to
.i . .. ... i ,. Ih... -, ,h ". English was
spoken everywhere, to my joy. Ten years cruising in Spanish-speaking
countries and still, I have no Spanish.
To a person, Providencians tell us how lucky they are to be there
and how they love their island and will never leave. This is unique to
Providencia, as inhabitants wherever we sail often talk about greener
,,,-- : b- 1 else.
il of ra a .. dinghy; everything is safe here", one cried, and more "Allrights",
flowed as we surveyed our surroundings. Christmas was coming in 14 days and the
decorative .i. i I 11. i.. .. landed on were almost ready. For a week, a group
of men with I i ., ,, I e I isers had been trying to get power to the maze of
wires stretching around the square. Work ceased as our desires of clearing Customs
and Immigration were discussed.
"Mr. Bush is the man you have to see," the Immigration officer told us (as he was
"-lin --iti the lights).
," I I along turning left up a hill, passing three supermarkets with the
possibility of fresh produce. Finally we found Mr. Bush. Everyone wanted to help and
some had no idea where Mr. Bush lived but as usual, in the Third World, gave
imaginary directions. A tall, quiet gentleman, Mr. Bush bade us sit in rocking chairs
on his upstairs balcony where we enjoyed the colour of Providencia passing in the
street below. Brilliantly clothed people with skin tones ranging from coal black to lily
white and every shade between drove myriads of motorcycles. The most beautiful
women walked by, and I thanked their Colombian blood for this. There are only 17
kilometers of road around the island but it seemed everyone had a motorcycle and a
cell phone into which they shouted as they drove by.
Mr. Bush appeared with the port master and we sat around filling out forms. Next,
we walked with Mr. Bush to Immigration and as we approached, the Immigration
man left the mess of the lights and we sat in his office. One minute later, he was
ii.. .. .. i ii i ... I sports later that afternoon. Mr. Bush was a wealth
Sh i s. O I m io I ... I ris fee of US$100 was unlimited information, on a
i C i ..... .oie f 1 a to buy this, where to fix that. The enthusiastic tour
ist office personnel were also a great help as to where to go and what to do.
The passports were another story. After three days Yvonne asked what the problem
was. Shrugging his shoulders the man told her the stamp for the passports is issued
to a certain person and that person is on holidays but he may be back soon and we
will get our passports returned then.
There are many walks on the island and we crossed the bridge, which is floating
in parts and has steps rising in the middle to allow fishing dinghies to pass under.
Isla Catalina was spotlessly clean, as was Providencia, and we began walking along
the shore on the paved concrete walkway. At each house, we were questioned as to
where we came from and details of our family and, most importantly how we liked
i .... ,-1,, i ,, every one told us how they adored their islands and we could see
S. this. One old man told us he had not crossed the bridge from
Catalina to Providencia for 11 years, as it was too busy over there.
At the end of the walkway we climbed hundreds of steps over a hill on which is
situated a fort, with a couple of cannons to prove the point. Then we clambered back
down an equal number of -t-i- 1-n-. a dirt trail with rich green jungle growth alter-
nating with tiny beaches, i. .11 i. ... later, we were at a large rock shaped like a
head, Morgan's Head, named after Morgan the pirate, who used Providencia as a
base and is revered. On Providencia, above the Catholic Church, is a hill with a deep
crevice at its summit which the locals call Morgan's Arse.


Around the point were lush coconut tree-covered beaches and later we explored all
of these in the dinghy. Coconut trees by the thousands clung precariously to stony
cliffs that swept down to tiny beaches. Caves abounded, some with bat colonies. One
was called Morgan's Cave, naturally.
There were many jobs to do aboard but we fitted in a long walk each morning
t.l-i; -liff-rent route. We found that if you see fresh fruit or vegetables in a
I ...... i or stall, you should buy it on the spot. It may not be there an hour
later and then may be unavailable for a week. It was explained that the population
is from pirate and fishing stock, and vegetables and fruit are not grown commer
cially, apart from for one's own use, but this will happen one day. Everything comes
from San Andreas, an island every Providencian told us was dangerous and defi
nitely undesirable.
Tourism only attracts 14,000 persons annually, mainly from Colombia. The island
needs more tourists. There are pleasant hotels and resorts. Diving is popular, as are
the tranquil walks. The governing body of Providencia is strict on foreigners, even
Colombian nationals, and six months is all you can stay on the island even if you
own a house. This has kept the population at a reasonable 4,000. Too many islands,
such as San Andreas, have allowed unlimited immigration, over-taxing resources
with sad results.
One morning at 0600 we dinghied to the wharf where two motorcycles awaited us.
We were to climb the highest peak on the island with a guide who, thankfully, would
carry our pack of water and lunch.
With the fresh island air on our faces, we sped halfway around the island to
Bottom Hill. People walking on the narrow road waved at us and we passed many
brightly painted houses. The islanders love colour on clothes, vehicles, and houses.
Racism does not exist amongst the people of Providencia and all get along well. The
Police and other public servants are from Colombia itself, however, speak no English,
and seem left out of the bubbling community spirit.




rsr1


'We were deep in a bay protected from al but a westerly wind.
All around us was the green ofProvidencia's jagged hills...'


Arriving at the trail, we took up our walking sticks and followed our guide who
pointed out birds and points of interest. 'T the birds local names such as Old
Man Bird. "That is -. ;- .;--- cuckoo," :.. .1 a bird specialist, corrected.
"No, it is 'old mai. I .. I i se repeated. I had to intervene as the bird book was
being pulled out to prove the "real" name and said, "Yvonne, his grandfather called
it 'old man', let it be 'old man bird' for his grandchildren too."
1. 1...i .1 .,. i. I 1I I ..... .... I 1 1 semi-tropical jungle was arduous
an i -1 I 11 1 1 1 ...- .... o sunlight and palm trees as we
walked on. The trail steepened and we puffed on for another hour. It was a thrill to
be at the top. The view all around was spectacular. The crisp white line of the surf
indicated the reef edge of the coral reefs that encircle Providencia. Beyond it was the
blue-black ocean and inside the multi-coloured blues, greens and browns of shallow
reef. Below us to the northwest was the bay between the two islands and this view
was enhanced by our sailboat. Lunch was a pleasure with this vista below.
The descent took only an hour but without our sticks to balance us, it too would
have been difficult.
The motorbikes continued around the island to get back to the dinghy and we
passed many I i,.1i,,i1 .ches ., 1,1. 1
Dinghying tI I i we : .... I i.. -. I .,, around the islands.
Every job took a day. We went to get propane but our new USA bottle, with all the
safety precautions that USA citizens need, could not be filled with the equipment on
the island. I asked to change the tap and it was done and the bottle filled. We spent
hours talking to people and learning about the island while we waited. Another day
gone but enjoyed.
Mr. Bush advised whom to see to rethread a Staylock fitting. "If he cannot do it
then it cannot be done on the island," he told 1.- :_r1,-- In 20 minutes, it was done,
albeit with different threads, and our mast i.11 I .11 "Buy me a soda," was the
cost. Surely, this is the way the world should be.
They made great whole-meal bread on the island but after four days of it being
"sold out", I asked what time I should call at the shop to buy it. I was told, "We have
no whole-meal flour until next year." Ti......- .... .. I the island. "This is the first
Christmas we have propane for sale," ii 1 11 I I I .
It is good that the peacefulness and ambience of Providencia are being guarded by
the people. They are determined their treasure will not be overrun by settlers and
the land will be protected from developers. Accordingly, I believe Providencia will
remain as it is and not develop in the heartbreaking way many other one-time island
treasures have. Go visit.

Editor's note: Friends of the Katchor's will be sad to learn that in July, while sailing
to Raiatea in the Pacific, Yvonne suffered a cerebral embolism and as of this writing is
in a coma. Well wishers can e-mail Bernie at Bernie@berniekatchor.com.
































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As the sun sets on another season of cruising the islands, it's time again to
celebrate those places and people that have achieved standards of 'par excel
lence'. Your dedicated crew of the good ship Pandora have diligently been col
lating all the evidence and are now ready to publish. Yes, start the fanfare,
break out the -h.ri-..- r--ple -here are
TV this season's I .'- I .. I-", in our opin
ion, the best of the best.
SBAnchorage for peace and quiet: Chatham
Bay,
Union Island
With no roads to it, coupled with no WiFi or
even a mobile phone signal, and just a couple
of beach bars, this large, green hill framed bay
is a haven for the yachtie looking to get away
from it all just as long as you don't mind
sharing it with the fish and the pelicans.
Bar: Firefly, Mustique
Basil's is the famous one, but up the hill
Firefly is the place to go for the sunset view
over your boat in Britannia Bay, the sensa
tional martini cocktails mixed by Patrick (the
best barman ever), and the salted toasted coco
nut that goes with them.
Beach Bar: Sun Beach & Eat, Chatham
S Bay,
Union Island
The author celebrates the best Vanessa and Seckie's Bar is a shack powered
of another season by a car battery, but after Seckie has cooked your
lobster on an outdoor fire, and Vanessa mixes a
rum punch .i .. ....I. . I u sit with your toes in the sand .-in. t
the tranquil ..I I t .f I you know this is the definition I
beach bar.
Beach (leeward): Paradise Beach, Carriacou
A perfectly calm, whiteedged crescent with see through water and a view across
to Union Island. Just a couple of sleepy beach bars, a couple of fishing boats and
some very large starfish complete te picture.
Beach (windward): Macaroni Beach, Mustique
Still the most fun you can have in the sea without a boat or a snorkel. The
regular but safe big waves and shady nooks to recover never fail to please.
Beer: Stag, Grenada
A lovely hoppy tang that refreshes as it should but still has some bite.
Matched only by Hairoun Gold in St. Vincent & the Grenadines.
Best thing we bought for the boat: Bimini from Grenadines Sails,
Bequia
It's huge (the largest Avell has ever made), it cleverly folds back into a mini
bimini when we sail, and yet its clean lines still stop it from looking like a tent.
We love it.
Boat Boy and Tour Guide: 'Seacat', Roseau, Dominica
To appreciate what Dominica has to offer you simply can't do without a
guide and Octavius .,, I II known as Seacat) is your best man for the
job. His knowledge I II, -,. from island botany to the best hikes and
Sa.1. cI is fantastic and his genuine enthusiasm
n e , task is infectious. Plus he has secure
SI you hooked to the internet and
Sy b I f your washing while you're out
Staking in the scenery. Indispensable.
runs a very close second.
Bread: De Breadman, Grenada
Lovingly crafted and individually numbered,
these heavy loaves of goodness are free of the
sugar and artificial preservatives so prevalent in
the imported American sliced offerings that you
usually find. You can locate them at IGA in
V'D." na B Spiceland Mall and Foodland near the lagoon.
Pandora's award winning Chandlery: Budget Marine, Grenada
tour guide inDominica Itmaybe partofa i ..... ... i I I I
in the Caribbean but its a winner purely becau'- I i I "1 '
manager Nicholas George, for whom nothing is too much trouble, and typified
by the alwayssmiling lady at the checkout who only needs to meet you once to
know your boat name for the rest of the season.
Cocktail: 'The Pandora'
Shameless self promotion admitted, but honestly this has u 1r.
research and testing and is our favourite sunset tipple. Go on, .'- .
A generous measure of Mount Gay Rum, a slug of ginger syrup (the sirop de
gingembre from the French islands is best), topped up with pink grapefruit juice
and plenty of ice. Serve in a tall glass.
Customs and Immigration: Any French Island
It's still the French who make this cruising "necessary evil" the most efficient
and painless.
But credit must also go to Dominica with their one stop check in and check
out process (providing you are staying less than two weeks), evenI I,' I, -. ,i,
Customs office in Roseau is harder than locating a smile on a I I
officer's face.
DVD Rental and Book Swap: Erika's Marine Services, Union Island
From Spanish and French art house films (e.g. Jean de Florette) and slushy class
sics (Breakfast at 7ffany's) through comedies to Hollyw( I i I II .. .
series box sets, Erika's is the only excuse to drag your I
and onto your boat's small screen. The book swap is equally broad ranging.
Continued on next page












Continuedfrom previous page
Event: Antigua Classic Yacht Regatta
Possibly more like a beauty parade than a regatta, this an., i .i1 .1...
extraordinary nautical design and painstaking maintenance is a ... I I i 1.
eyes. The addition of some classy parties and the location of Antigua's historic south
coast make this well worth a date for your diaries for next year April 14th through
19th, 2011.
For afternoon of decadence: Nikki Beach Club, St. Barth's
In this most hedonistic of islands, nothing makes you feel more "St. Tropez de
Carib" than Nikki Beach. Sip sexy cocktails, gorge on fresh sushi then lie back on
the white linen-covered day beds soothed by the sounds of the mellow house DJ.
For therapeutic rest and relaxation: Screws Spa, Wotten Waven, Dominica
Capturing naturally occurring hot sulphur springs, the rather unfortunately
named Screws Spa diverts them into a cascading series of picturesque pools of
varying degrees of temperature, where you wallow to your heart's content and fin
ish with an invigorating cold-pool splash. You'll feel like a million dollars afterwards
and will have only spent twenty! Heaven.
Fuel Dock: B & C Fuels, Petite Martinique
Easy access with a big dock pointing into the wind, coupled with quality fuel
(diesel and gasoline) at bargain prices make the stop well worth it. While you're
there, pop to Matthew's down the road for duty-free booze and you'll be properly
fuelled up for your travels.
Internet Cafi: Bougainvilla Hotel, Union Island
Not really an internet cafe, but a bar with free WiFi and very comfy sofas. Whether
you're wanting to check your e-mails at breakfast with -. :t;- press or update
facebook at Happy Hour, this place is open seven days a i i, ... early to late and
is a very civilised location to get connected.
Laundry: Maude's Laundry, All Saints, Antigua
The peerless (and very tall) Maude stands literally and figuratively head and
shoulders above the competition in a very crowded class. She says she'll wash,
fold and deliver but what she won't say is that your clothes will come back so
totally re-invigorated and immaculately presented that you'll almost be embar
rassed to sully them by wearing them.
Local Food Store: Doris' Fresh Foods, Bequia
Her inn -inr ability of knowing just what it is that you've been missing but didn't
know I 11i 11. excellent St Vincent ginger yoghurt) and locating it on her tightly
packed shelves makes Doris a winner again. Just don't go there when you are hungry!
Location with a view: by the church, Mayreau
At the top of the only road on the island, just above the Catholic church, the
360-degree view from the hill will give you as far as St. Vincent to the north,
Grenada in the south and all bits in between. But it's the view out east to the
Tobago Cays that is probably the most special.
Marina: Marigot Bay Marina, St. Lucia
The personal touch of Bob and his fabulous team, combined with the gorgeous
setting and the access to five-star resort facilities make this a winner again.
Mechanic: Quick & Reliable Mechanical Services, Rodney Bay, St. Lucia
Unfailingly prompt, polite, hard-working and with a very reasonable rate, Alwin
Augustin may not be imaginative with company names but he does live up to his.
After he finished, our generator was purring like a contented cat.
Most amazing moments: seeing dolphins, humpback whales and manta rays
Abig thank you to the dolphins that cheered us up in the middle of a 30-knot squall near
Guadeloupe, the humpbacks that put on a splashy show on the way to Nevis, and the mas
sive manta ray that cruised the breaking surf at Macaroni Beach in Mustique. You were all
wonderful.
Most underrated island: St. Vincent
With an occasional reputation as the bad pirate of the Caribbean, the truth and/
or the rumours overshadow the fact that the breadbasket of the southern Caribbean
is a stunning, verdant, lush island with breathtaking vistas and a fabulous Saturday
i ........ I. ,i .. I veg market. Even if you just take the ferry there from Bequia, you
c 11 to take a look and make up your own mind.
Naturally beautiful place: Ti Tou Gorge, Dominica
On an island blessed with spectacular beauty it's hard to pick just one place, but
Ti Tou Gorge is an enchanting watery grotto punctuated with occasional shafts of
brilliant sunlight that you swim through to a waterfall at the end. Totally magical.
Restaurant (dinner): Ti Kez La, Terre de Haut, les Saintes
Combine a beachside location and chef who trained with Pierre Kauffman at the
Savoy in London and the result is exquisitely beautiful food that tastes amazing, too.
Restaurant (local): BB's Crabback, St. George's, Grenada
S Brian Benjamin takes food from his farm
and other locally sourced fresh ingredients
and spins them into flavour sensations that
leap from the plate to your grateful palate.
CRestaurant (lunch): Golden Rock Inn,
Gingerland, Nevis
Newly restored with a blend of modem
design while preserving te original heritage
means the setting, the view towards
Montserrat and the lobster salad are well
worth a stop on the tour of historic
Gingerland.
Rum: Dark Mount Gay, Barbados; White
Brian Benjamin of BB's -Rhum Bologne, Guadeloupe
Crabback restaurant in Grenada Barbados may not be on the regular cruisers'
is tickled to be chosen path, but its quality rum always is, and :...
Sthe best dark all rounder by far. But I
rum, and te Pandora favourite, 'Ti Punch, only that made in Guadeloupe will do.
Fortunately they do sell it in 4.5litre casks.
Supermarket: L'Epicurean, St. John's, Antigua
The only serious contender worthy of competition with the awesome hypermarkets
of the French islands of St. Martin and Martinique. Worth a taxi ride to load up, or
a visit to Jolly Harbour where they have a second store.
T-shirts: Fidel Productions, Carriacou
Sandra Presig and her team take a variety of local art and carefully print it on
quality T shirts, creating by far the most wearable (and durable) T shirts in the
Caribbean.
Yachtie service: Cruiser's Net, Grenada
7:30AM every day except Sundays on VHF channel 68, and you can find out about
everything from the weather to "Treasures of the Bilge" and who's playing live music
where. An invaluable free resource, the major credit of which should go to the ever
cheerful Jonathan of Island Water World.
Nicola Cornwell and Mike WIlkie have been living aboard Pandora, a Hanse 470e
yacht, and cruising the islands for the past two seasons.


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A Caribbean
crouse light Young St. Thomas
sound like an
opportunity for a non-
stoprt ty f Sailor Takes a
time. i i I.
US Coast Guard Academyr
(CGA), based in New Different Caribbean
London, Connecticut, it's
serio tr..i...i. beit
with .... ....i i in. Cruis
Rian Bareuther, a third
class cadet and lifelong
resident of St. Thomas,
USVI, was onboard the Carol Bareuther
Coast Guard's Tall Ship,
Eagle, for the first six
weeks of the vessel's sum
-r trin-n -r*uise, which
li i ... San Juan,
Puerto Rico, and stopped
at Cartagena, Curacao
and Cozumel.
"When I learned the sum- .
mer cruise would be to the
Caribbean, I thought'great,
it'll be good to get back
home where its warm and
maybe see some of my old
friends'," says Bareuther,
who has just completed his -
first year at the CGA. ~
The CGA is one of the
US's five federal service
academies. Following four
years of study and military
r cadets graduate .m
"W CGA with a
Bachelor of Science degree
in majors ranging from
government to five areas of
engineering, and are com-
missioned as ensigns into
the US Coast Guard. Five
years of -1-lic t- duty are t 77
required .11 ,-aduation
from the tuition free acad
emy that only accepts some
300 candidates from a Main photo: The Eagle in port in San Juan, Puerto Rico
pool of more than 2,000 Inset: Rian, far right, and fellow cadets, who officially
applications annually. went from being 4th Class (or freshman) to 3rd Class
For Bareutheran -n (sophomores) while at sea
with more than .... -
fellow third class cadets as well as an equal number of first class or senior cadets,
the cruise meant a break from classroom studies and a chance to learn hands on
from Eagle's 50 plus permanent enlisted and officer crew. The cadets on Eagle's
first tour flew to San Juan the day after they finished Final Exams.
"We were handed a list with all the essential items we needed to pack the night
before we left," says Bareuther. "Everything had to be packed into one sea bag, plus
a uniform bag. Once onboard Eagle, we went below decks, stowed our gear in the
racks and made our beds. There were 18 bunks in our room, so it's close quarters."
Eagle is a 295 foot, three masted tall ship. It's the seventh in a line of same named
vessels that dates back to the Coast Guard's inception as the Revenue Cutter Service
in 1792, which was founded by Nevis born US Treasury Secretary, Alexander
Hamilton. The present day Eagle was built in 1936 at the Blohm & Voss Shipyard
in Hamburg, Germany. Adolf Hitler christened her the Horst Wessel and the vessel
was used to train German Naval Cadets. The US took the vessel as a war prize after
World War II and commissioned her into the US Coast Guard in 1946. Eagle, which



F Ak --1 &r--Kt A A&-& -i ---- |i I


homeports out of New London, has served as a seagoing good will ambassador and
cadet training ship ever since.
i ........ .s no joke. For example, cadets handle more than 20,000 square feet of
,I I i, miles of rigging. There are more than 200 lines that need to be handled
;;;i.. i-, ',- ship's maneuver and cadets are tasked with learning the name and
I:.... and every line.
"Years of sailing dinghies, and on bigger boats in regattas like Rolex, BVI and
., Sailing Week, helped me know what to do, how to fill the sails, tack and
j.1 lys Bareuther. "But what I liked best, and what you really can't do on a
dinghy, was climbing up to the royals when something needed to be fixed or adjust
ed. I like to be active and hands-on, and Eagle provided a lot of opportunities to do
just that."
Hands-on training started the minute the cadets pulled out of San Juan on
May 10th.
"The first 24 hours we did several drills like basic damage control, firefighting,
manning lifeboat stations and man overboard," says Bareuther.
Then came some fun couched in another lesson: anchoring.
"We anchored off Cabo Rojo (Puerto Rico) and were all allowed to go swimming,"
says Bareuther. "Some kids dove for conch, i, I.- .... .. ind. Even Captain
Jones (Captain Eric C. Jones, commanding 11. I -' Eagle) jumped in
for a swim. It was pretty cool."
Afterwards, it was time to hoist the sails for a ten-day voyage to Cartagena,
Colombia.
A typical day at sea, Bareuther tells us, meant waking at 6:30AM, followed by
breakfast and morning muster on deck for announcements and assignments.
Training for the third class cadets meant learning what the enlisted personnel did
onboard. (The first class cadets shadowed the officers, with the goal being for cadets
to have knowledge of all jobs shipboard by the time they graduate and are in a com-
mand position.) This meant anything from polishing the brass to learning pipe
patching, celestial navigation, basic rudder commands, steering, scullery duty and
cleaning the heads. Cadets could be called any time, day or night, to maneuver the
sails during :- wears, which says Bareuther, "is a fancy word for a square
S.. doing j.
Ii i ......... ,. ii i I .... thatyou are always busy and always working
I I. I.... . i. 1I ... .. I- "saysBareuther, whois r.' i' i : 1--tr- .1
engineering. Cadets all receive a sea training packet at the sta. i i :. ....- .11.
all the proficiencies they are to learn during their time onboard.
Eagle, along with a dozen other majestic tall ships and fanfare escort of official and
private vessels, arrived in Cartagena on the morning of May 19th as part of Vela
Sudamerica, I I .... ..1.- i ... ..th American Tall Ships regatta that celebrate
ed the bicente..... 1 ... I ,, I ,, of many South American nations.
"There were official functions like representing the Coast Guard at a concert,
military parade and church service, and then inter-company sports," says
Bareuther. "For example, we played Panama and Uruguay in soccer on the beach.
It was a great time."
Eagle experienced its roughest weather of the trip during the passage from
C-.rt:-n. to Curacao.
', 1. cadet and I were on the midnight to four watch and all of a sudden it
started pouring, ju- i. i.... with wind and rain," Bareuther says.
The two cadets, I I ... 1.1 jackets, went to the front of the vessel by the anchor
chain, clipped on their safety harnesses, and continued their watch up by the bow
sprit where it proved to be a wild, or as Bareuther calls it, "pretty cool" ride.
He was on daybreak duty when Eagle sailed into Curacao for three days.
"I was down working below decks when I got a call that there were some folks
looking for me," he says. "When I came up, there were about 20 Optimist sailors and
their parents on board from Curacao Youth Sailing. I gave them a tour and then took
them into the mess for some juice. I knew a couple of them, and several of them
knew my younger sister, Nikki, from when she sailed in the Opti North American
Champions, . I i. -1 I ... Curacao two years ago. It was great to maintain that
Caribbean I
Eagle pulled out of Curacao on June 1st, sailed north and then west along the
south coast of Haiti, past Jamaica, right through the Caymans, and docked in
Cozumel on June 11th. This is where Bareuther's group of cadets off-loaded onto a
C-130 aircraft for ii. i,.1, I i 1 mnecticut and the other half of the third and
first year classes -. I I 1. .. i ''1 up the Eastern seaboard.
"The Coast Guard Academy isn' 1.1i ...i.. collegee where you have all summer
off and can party any time," says : .. .. I. I .I .. .1 place if you really want
to learn a lot and help people stay safe on the seas.




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Main photo: 'he Unicorn, a class act in St. Lucia
Inset: St. Lucia's Pirates of the Caribbean crew! Back row, left to right: Winston
Chiqo, Hilloron Pierre, Ronald Belizere, Captain Wellington Lawrence, and
Christopher Rameau. Seated is Wayne James, and kneeling is Brandon Herbert.
All but James, Belizere and Rameau are still employed on the Unicorn
IF you want a date with St ... ... I ,,, .- it can be arranged. She's
appeared in films, epics ... i .11 ... ...... 1 1i isior, i 1 '. 1, n - She's
a big star at 148 feet long and weighing 190 tons ,,-, -. .n with
wind... still interested?
Of course you are. She's the Unicorn and you can go out with her on a Sunset
Cruise, a Treasure Hunt (including a mock battle with those wicked British on
Pigeon Island) or even a private date. However, like any film star she has a past...
and here it is:
The Unicorn is a softwood schooner that was built in Finland in 1948, only then
she was the Lyra The ... .- .. .i11 I 'ii .H ,, .. .. engine. Back then marine
engines w ere expensive i, , I i I, I i.. IT I ... I ... I- i... ...... I i i
ping lost in WWII was a priority. This was to have ... i.. ...- ... 1 11 '
down the line.
Her owner, HF 1 T 1 ..... .. definitely had an eye for boat design: the two-masted
schooner has I ...i.1..1 eping sheer line. The distinct up-thrust at her bow
sweeps down to amidships and then lazily up to the stern. The wooden decking
accentuates the curve and delivers the whole cosmetic package.
The Lyra might not have had an engine but she did have an ancient semi-diesel
powered -. i.-.- for the heavy work, she was (and still is) a working girl. For 23
summers I i ,,, i cargoes around Finland.
During the long winters in this part of the world she was often frozen into the ice,
however, things were about to change. Jacques Thiry, a former US Air Force and
UNICEF photographer, decided the Lyra was for him. He purchased the hard-work
ing Lyra from Johansson back in 1971 and renamed her Unicorn. He and a partner
took her to southern Sweden for a rebuild and a conversion. Old Jacques' dream was
to rig Unicorn as a traditional trading brig and put her back to work.
Fourteen months later, he realized his dream when the Unicorn sailed south to the
Solent in England, where she made an impact... a large one.
The story goes that one night at anchor, with the crew at dinner below, the ship
was rocked by an amidships collision. A sloshed captain (dressed in full evening wear)
in a slowly sinking speedboat had made a large impact. Evidently drink had gotten
the better of the captain and he thought the Unicorn an apparition. So, as it was
merely an apparition, there was no need to go around it -simply go ii..1.., .I'
The damage to Unicorn was minor, however, the same couldn't I I the
launch, which was a complete loss -a sobering thought for some.
Plain Sailing
Unicorn eventually sailed to the Canary Islands, then across the Atlantic to
Barbados in the spring of 1973. After this it was off to the US East Coast before
tramping fc;' 1--, the islands.
The brig .... I I. ..1 between Grand Cayman and the Spanish colonial port of
Trujillo, Honduras. Here a dock and a warehouse were leased to collect and store
goods. Times were good. Ferrying fresh fruits and all manner of cargoes was the
Unicorn's bread and butter, but some rotten luck was just around the corner.
What Rotten Luck
A cargo of fruit (mainly bananas and melons), already past their sell-by date, was
delivered to the ship. Jacques, for some reason, couldn't say no to the cargo. It's
rumored that the shipper had threatened (promised is more likely) to murder him if
he didn't sail with the defective load.
So the crew reluctantly set sail for Georgetown in Grand Cayman. When your luck's
out it's really out. As if murder threats and over-ripe fruit weren't enough, along came
some headwinds. The fruit soon went from ripe to rotten with some alarming conse
quences. The temperature under the hatches shot up as the ethylene gas, courtesy
of the rotting bananas and melons, triggered a ripening of the rest of the cargo.
Melons exploded due to the rise in temperature and cockroaches multiplied to
biblical proportions. The ship's cook decided to put some distance between himself,
the cockroaches, and the rest of the crew by -l1ifn-i; th- mast to the main top. Here
he stayed like a nesting seagull for the rest ( I .
By the time the wind picked up and the Unicorn eventually made landfall in the
S. ... .. ,-e a mess. The exploded cargo had now liquefied and gorged
I, ., I itheship.


Port authorities weren't keen on let
ting our stinking star dock but even
tually relented, much to the cook's
delight no doubt. What was left after
the cockroaches and explosions had
to be shoveled away for pig food,
much to the chagrin of the owner,
whose cash flow forecast had just
gone the way of the melons.
Back to Her Roots
All of this is a long way from how

her nine-man crew. Movies, sunset
cruises, treasure hunts, mock battles
and private charters have replaced
i .id fermenting fruit. The
S I movie role was that of
the slave ship Lord Liganeer, in Alex
Hailey's television adaptation of his
ii,, book Roots, which was
i n I I the lesser developed Sea
Islands off Georgia.
There was also a German pirate film,
a children's travel series, and an English
documentary on square riggers; how
ever, bigger and better things were on
the horizon: Disney and the Pirates of
the Caribbean trilogy, and in 2010 she
played host to the popular reality dat
ing show The Bachelor.
A Dream Comes True
The Unicorn portrayed the Henrietta
in the first Pirates of the Caribbean
film and Terrasaw in the second and
third. The Henrietta was skippered by
St. Lucia's premier pirate, Barbados
born Sam Alleyne.
With over 35 years' sailing experi
ence from square riggers to cargo/

is a licensed Master Mariner. Sam described tlI. ,......I. ii i I
dream come true".
"I was captain of the Unicorn in the early '90s for around nine years, and the six
weeks of shooting the film were probably the most memorable," said Sam.
H,.. 1 ... 11 ..... 1 .. c ci...... JI.. i. she's never forgiven him for the photograph
sh( I I I ...... 11 a very down-to-earth guy, he mixed with
everyone," said Sam about his pirate pal. In the scene where he steps off his sinking
boat onto the wooden dock, he tripped and fell.
"Are you okay, Mr. Depp?" asked a concerned director.
Depp got back on his feet, laughed and said: "Of course I am, do you think I'm
some sort of softie? I'm a pirate!"
"We made St. Lucia proud. The boat performed admirably, but before filming we
had to take the top off the bar! A historian checked everything for accuracy,"
laughed Sam.
There are future plans to utilize the Unicorn both for pirate parts and upgrade her
for more roles in series such as The Bachelor filmed in St. Lucia earlier this year.
Affable St. Luci ,, ii,.... .. I .iD) Lawrence is the current Unicorn skipper and
has been for the -' I I His background ranges from Cunard Liners to
yacht deliveries and everything in between and, similar to his predecessor, he also
appeared in the Disney trilogy.
"There were seven other local pirates who appeared in Pirates of the Caribbean:
Dead Man's Chest and in Pirates of the Caribbean: At World's End," said Wello with
a smile. "We were on set for around six weeks and filming took four and a half weeks.
I i... I never thought possible!" he said.
I, ., II I hear you ask. Well, things like a miniature moon that lit up the whole
of St. Vincents Wallilabou Bay. Then there was the varnish applied to the Unicorn to
give her an aged look. "It was applied similar to boot polish," said Wello.
One thing both of the pirate captains have in common is the ease in which they
learned their lines there weren't any.
"We ad libbed in a pirate sort of way," agreed Sam and Wello. "Lots of 'arrs' and
'ayes'. It was more for effect than anything else but, hey, we looked good and sound
ed even better!"
I suppose you could say better by faaaaaaarrrrrrr!
St. Lucia resident Bruce McDonald is an OGM Communications journalist.


DOB:
LOAX
Length of Hull:
Beam:
Loaded Draft:
Weight:
Engine:
Horsepower:
Fuel Capacity:
Fresh Water Capacity:
Sail Area:
Rigging:
Created by:


1948
45.1 meters (148 feet)
28.7 metres (94 feet)
6.7 metres (22 feet)
2.7 metres (9 feet)
190 tonnes
Caterpillar diesel, turbo-charged
335 rated HP
1,900 US gallons
1,250 I .ii
7,362 i .... I I I... I.. I.,. stun'sls)
3 1/2 miles worth
Helge Johansson in Sibbo, Finland


















































































make your f t;- and more comfortable. The table below, courtesy Don
Street, autd i -1. I Guides and compiler of Imray-Iolaire charts, which
shows the time of the meridian passage (or zenith) of the moon for this AND next
month, will help you calculate the tides.
Water, Don explain -nr--ll' tries to run toward the moon. The tide starts
running to the east ...11 .noonrise, continues to run east until about an
hour after the moon reaches its zenith (see TIME below) and then runs westward.
From just after the moon's setting to just after its nadir, the tide runs eastward;
and from just after its nadir to soon after its rising, the tide runs westward; i.e.
tide the floods from west to east. Timrn- i--n nr" local.
Note: the maximum tide is 3 or 4 i .11 1I new and full moons.
For more information, see "Tides and Currents" on the back of all Imray Iolaire
charts. Fair tides!


September
DATE TIME
1 0519
2 0614
3 0712
4 0810
5 0908
6 1005
7 1100
8 1124 (new)
9 1247
10 1341
11 1435
12 1531
13 1627
14 1752
15 1816
16 1908
17 1957
18 2043
19 2126
20 2207


21 2248
22 2328
23 0000 (full)
24 0009
25 0052
26 0137
27 0224
28 0315
29 0408
30 0504

October
1 0600
2 0656
3 0751
4 0845
5 0938
6 1031
7 1124
8 1219 (new)
9 1315
10 1413


1510
1607
1701
1751
1839
1923
2005
2046
2126
2207
2250
2334
0000 (full)
0021
0111
0204
0259
0355
0451
0545
0637


SAILORS' HIKES BY CHRIS DOYLE




PEGGY'S ROCK:

A Dizzying View of Bequia


While anchored in Admiralty Bay, Bequia, scan the hill line that leads down to
West Cay. Take your binoculars and focus around the highest point. In that area (a
bit to the east) you will see a big bare rock sticking up clear of the vegetation. That
is Peggy's Rock (also called Mount : .. I 1..1 e to this point offers a spectacular
panorama of Admiralty Bay, so don 1 i I camera. A lightweight pair of bin
oculars might be fun to have, too.
While you might be able to get to Peggy's Rock from the harbour, it is not the
easiest way. The best place to start is on the other side of the island at the Bequia
Whaling and Maritime Museum. The hike takes two or three hours round trip.
Tb- u-in; i lust challenging enough to be interesting. Towards the top are many
S. i edged and sword-pointed yucca plants. The leaves, while sharp, are
fairly thin; a small cutlass or even a good big pair of scissors would enable you to
remove the tips those that encroached onto the path. Otherwise, long trousers help
protect your legs.
From Port Elizabeth you can catch a dollar van heading toward "southside" (Paget
Farm) and the airport; ask the driver to let you out at the Whaling Museum.
Start with your back to the museum, turn left and take the first concrete road on your
left. It climbs uphill and has a three-barred white wooden fence along the right-hand
side. (If you take a taxi to the starting point ask the driver to put you off at the road
where Johnny Ollivierre lives; same place.) This is a private road, do so not drive up;
walk up without making too much of a ruckus so you don't disturb the residents.
Walk to the top of this road; it
turns to dirt after a while. You will
see a house at the top on your right.
Turn left here. Up the hill you will
see some utility poles and wires
ahead. Go in their general direction
and you will come to another, rather
hidden house. Leave it on your left
and pass round the back and head
uphill. Sometimes there is a trail,
sometimes just goat tracks, but
when you get into the prickly stuff at
the top you need to find the path; it
is not hard.
The path takes you through a
stony thicket to a rounded r-
plain; head straight up the :,, I II The hike starts here
There isa iia trei inii h .
offto the I 1 '
on upwards.
As you climb you will see a little hill right ahead. The path starts a bit to the left
of the center of the hill then climbs right into it. From here it is hard to go wrong;
just follow the trail upwards. Towards the top you start getting into the yucca, but
by way of compensation the landscape is delightful like a wild rock garden. You
ii I .... .... ip rocks from time to time. You get a couple of glimpses of
I I, i .. I you reach the top, but don't take too much notice the view
is to come.
Finally you climb up to a peak with some big rocks. This is Peggy's Rock. You can
sit here and see the whole of Admiralty Bay spread out below you, dotted with
yachts, without a tree in the way. Lower Bay and Tony Gibbons (Princess Margaret)
Bay are almost directly below. St. Vincent is to the north. No other view in Bequia
beats this.
If you are smart you will return the same way you came up and catch a dollar van
back to the harbour. But if you don't want to backtrack, I am told there are three
trails down to Lower Bay. I can only tell you about the one my friend Paul and I used.
First we headed back the way we came and then took the first fairly major path on
the left. I II .,. I ..Il tered out a couple of hundred yards down, so don't
take tha b in I ,e I .Ii back there is another trail on your left; it is recog
nizable because it looks like it is heading out to an open viewpoint. (If you are lucky
the red logging tape someone marked it with will still be there.) There really is no
good view but there is a fair trail off to the right. This seems to end in a big patch of
yucca, but if you stand at the edge of the yucca you can see the good trail just a few
thousand razor sharp prickles away on your right. Take a few steps back and find
your way over. The trail after that is quite clear and the first part is marked here and
there with red tape (this may be the only time I have been thankful for red tape).
At first it is clearly a cut trail, then it turns into a dry streambed. It is very steep
and full of slippery dead leaves, so take it slow. Down, down, down, slipping, scram
bling, grabbing for trees (thinking all the time I was glad I did not try to come up this
way) and eventually you come out on a road that will lead you to the beach in Lower
Bay -a good place to stop for a long refreshing drink or a swim.
















ALL TOGETHER..o WHEN?


A High Tide in the Caribbean by Peter Morgan. Caribbean Communications,
Barbados. Paperback, 280 pages. ISBN 976 8083024-7.
A High Tide in the Caribbean was written by an English-born Barbados citizen,
Peter Morgan, who attained a wealth of knowledge and experience of West Indian
culture through his participation in both tourism and politics in Barbados, and
extensive travel throughout the Caribbean archipelago.
The story depicts the
political, social and cul
tural happenings -1:ri;,;
the period 1998 to 11*
is set in the fictitious
island of St. Cecilia and
revolves around a seem-
,r-ending
,^ ,, ... ,, the obj ec
tive "to make one more try
l Dto foster Caribbean unity
and integration".
Recall the saga of the
West Indies Federation?
Well, Mr. Morgan has
broached the issue again,
even expanding the
Conference participants to
include the Dutch depen
dencies, the French
Departments, the
Ame ican territories, the

Dominican Republic. The
Foreign and
ejCommonwealth Office in
SLondon, p the office of the
Prime Minister of Canada
and the State Department
a in Washington are fea
turned in the story too.
a P T R R What takes place during
:A A the unusually long confer
Seance is, in local parlance,
"jokey". Mr. Morgan enliv-
ens page after page of the
book with characteristic
West Indian flavour and British style, meshing a cast of northern participants and a
colorful set of regional characters with memorable names such as Tin Tot, Fahda,
Puddle, Gookie and Hardback, who will put smiles on your face. You may even find
yourself laughing out loud. Those who appreciate British humour will especially
enjoy reading this book.
The author's involvement in the political and social sphere of the Caribbean (in
Barbados as a Senator, an elected member of the House of Assembly and
Government Minister, as Barbados High Commissioner to Canada, and as founding
Chairman of the Caribbean Tourism Research Centre) clearly helped provide the
material for this book. i -a i a.lt. fi -; in the many humorous sideshows that suc
ceed in reflecting some I IId a IIe and social aspects of the Caribbean such as
a wake in the country, a political street protest, picketing, a nightclub scene and a
fishing excursion.
One chapter relates to a favourite Caribbean sport a game so near and dear to
both English and West Indian hearts -cricket. For West Indians, half the fun of
attending a cricket match is taking in the animated "getting on" of the crowd, which
r wu g y tro ,I ,.... where he e thecrowd is notedfor its enthusiasm andexper
tise in the fine points of the game, rather tha for its elegance and sobriety, Puddle
eased himself through a mass of pulsating humanity and tired to settle himself into a
non existent seat between Hardback and Gookie.
"Mann Hardback, ease up a dite, man, an gi' muh a scotch, nuh?"
"Man Puddle, you is too big an' ugly to it yub arse in there man. Me an' Gookie wuz
here early, man, where yuh bin all morning? "
"Man, that woman I got did gi' me fit this morning' man she does humbug me too
bad I tell yuh I like to throw she out the house. Any woman goin' to mek a man late
fuh the game en' oth a damn, replied Puddle angrily but all the while gaining teri
tory on the sitting area.
"Man Puddle, yuh is too foolish and easy pon she, man. I tol' yuh long since that
creature wud gi' yuh trouble. She too don't carish. Yuh should buss she arse ever
since, man. A few good licks is al a woman r like that does unerstan'."
"So, wha' yuh bettin' onde game now, Gookie?" said Puddle, eager to take his mind
off the offending female now that he had achieved his territorial objective. "Yuh still
suh assified to think them Orstralians gunna beat we? eh?"... "Man, hush yuh mount ,
Puddle, yuh don't see dey 'bout to start the game?Man, Iproudenuffto be here today.
Cricket! Lovely cricket!"
Nonetheless, in tandem with the sideshows is a renewed call for Caribbean unity.
Mr. Morgan's theme is telling us nothing new. However, he is saying something that
needs reinforcing that this search for Caribbean unity and integration will go on
and on and on until we make it happen. For, as the quote from V. Schoelcher's Les
Colonies Franqaises (Paris, 1852) at the beginning of the book reminds, "...One can
not help but think that they may well come together some day to form a distinct
social body in the modern world... They might well unite in confederation, joined by
a common interest, and possess a merchant fleet, an industry, arts and a literature
all their own. That will not come about in a year, nor in two, nor perhaps in three
centuries, but come about it some day shall, for it is natural that it be so."
Although out of pint, this book is available at www.swaptree.com, on e Bay and at
book swaps.


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SEPTEMBER 2010



Y ARIES (21 Mar 20 Apr)
Business is still experiencing headwinds for you as
Saturn is in Libra, whice ---;. opposite. Romance will
join it in the last week. : a little and gather boat
speed in other aspects of your life.
d TAURUS (21 Apr 21 May)
Romance is in the doldrums for you this month and if
you insist o. i. i, i ,... I i 11 iI ... willget
S ... .. i i ...... .. i and let

SGEMINI (22 May 21 Jun)
'11 ,De reluctant to get ;n- -- but busi
'I ... a bit of a breeze I.. .. 11. first week
so make the most of that.
CANCER 0 (22 Jun 23 Jul)
Your love life will conti.... I i 1 1 fect, so
take time off to optimize : .. I .
Q LEO (24 Jul 23 Aug)
Shipboard romance will be a pain in the aft for you this
month. Get off the boat for a while, go inland and give boat
life a rest.

H VIRGO (24 Aug 23 Sep)
.. the boat projects you should have
Get as much as possible done
before the 23rd when the working aspect moves out of
your sign.
^ LIBRA (24 Sep 23 Oct)
I ... .i .. ... before the
15'. i. .... .
TSCORPIO (24 Oct 22 Nov)
It's love and lust galore for you this month, Sailor
you'll know what to do.
SSAGITTARIUS (23 Nov 21 Dec)
Sii11 make
... i ii I your

SCAPRICORN (22 Dec 20 Jan)
Use the creative --i- ..1 --r ails to finish any boat
projects left over f. ... I I ... .. I before the 23rd. Don't
let business or personal worries backwind your jib.
SAQUARIUS (21 Jan 19 Feb)
Dedicate the first week to serious b"-- pr"f-t- --i
don't let romantic squalls knock you off 1
off later.
SPISCES (20 Feb 20 Mar)
Ah, romance! You will be feeling lusty and will find a
willing cohort, so drop the hook and enjoy it.







DON'T

LEAVE PORT

WITHOUT IT








COMPASS


14d


What makes us do it
I could never really say.
When we jump the fence
Are we just carried away?
The grass must seem greener
So we go have a look,
Then time usually shows
We have really been took.

So this is the sad story
Of my old friend Joe
And his First Mate,
Her name was Flo.
She was a fabulous mate
and could do it all:
Nothing was too much,
He had only to call.

I was never quite sure
What caused the day,
But he and Flo split
Then he sailed away.
Now Flo wasn't glitter,
And surely not glamour,
But a true, loving woman,
So why all the clamour?

It wasn't much time,
But was near the same date,
And back sailed Joe;
He'd found a new mate.
Curiosity got the best
And I went over to see
What new equipment
Joe was taking to sea.

When she extended her hand
To say "Hello,"
S i nails
II i aglow.
I couldn't get close,
I had to stand back:
Ten pounds of chest
In a five-pound sack!

He said, "This is Kim,
She is my new mate,
And with Flo long gone
Now things are just great!"
But something then told me
It was not so fine,
That heartache and trouble
Were coming in time.

Now Joe was my friend,
So I wanted to say,
"Think this thing over;
You might rue the day."
But nothing I could do,
Surely nothing to be said
At that point in time
Was going to turn Joe's head.

There was work to do
Before they could depart,
And watching the scene
would break your heart.
Lounging in the cockpit
Or out sunning on deck,
As Joe did all the work,
She gave not a speck.


Then Joe set sail
With his new-found crew,
Not knowing that the Devil
Would soon collect his due.
The fun had been great
But soon became Hell:
Looking good was all
That Kim could do well.

Now "Twinkies" have value,
And I'm here to say
That what they do best
Is done in the hay.
Joe was soon overworked
And much underfed;
His Cupcake could do nothing
Outside of the bed.

Flo had stood that watch, too,
And was quite ideal,
Then into the galley
And out with a great meal.
We never miss the water
Till the well runs dry,
But Joe made his choice
And could now only cry.

Flo was now gone
And Joe was unsure
With his new Twinkie diet
How long he could endure.
He was tired 1 .. 1
Itwastheenc 11' i
i. .. .. i.I before the boat
i in the way.

He fired the flares
And he put out a call.
I answered quickly,
But then that was all.
The message was brief
That he had hit a reef;
Tired of his new fun **
And now sick with grief.

He had no raft
But I knew his location.
A friend was in need
So I forgot my vacation.
But when I got to the spot
There was just no sign.
How could it all go
In such a short, short time?

I continued my search;
It seemed such a useless quest.
"Why aren't they here?
I know they had vests!"
Then there she was,
I could finally see,
Dancing like a cork
There upon the sea.

She seemed to be alright
But the sun was getting low;
I had to keep looking,
I had to find Joe!
It was the right spot
But I was beginning to know:
Somehow she had made it,
But not my friend Joe.


A i;--1;n. problem
I.. I ... the rear,
Then up alongside
It all became clear.
With so much foam
Implanted within,
Who needs a vest
Or to know how to swim?!?

They wouldn't let her sink,
ili. .. .1. ... i. way to swim,
- I11. ...I to the doc
Who had handcrafted them.
As I gathered her in
I knew Joe's mistake,
But too late to call Flo,
Joe's first First Mate.

Now men are men
And I'm one, too,
But Joe made a mistake;
Don't let it happen to you.
These "Twinkies" and "Cupcakes"
Are there for the show,
But to keep a boat floating
You need a mate like Flo.


Bob Burdick












Compass Cruising Crossword 'nd a Star to Steer Her By'
A( R(o)SS
3 4 5 6 7 S
i I
] l I I _ .. .I
0I I

1 1 1 ,13 14
] I I I I ,
15 1 II ...17I
: lI hI,,, Ih .I 1 ihI I I I I .11,
"18 Il I I ,....1 I .. .


4_ Ih I -,25 26 I




32 33 34







I I Ijerry-toonI, I .... I I,
-39 4--41 4



















Swww.cari bbeancom pass.com
'1. I I . _




je rry -to o n ... ......... .... ..











iWe're on the Web!



Swww.ca ri bean co pass. com


"You pacAed so much u applies, there's
not enough room for me. I hope it was
just an innocent miAItAe. "


C MPASS













I,, THE CAR^^IBBEA SKY:F'REl SH' OWl N-' ll']iGH 'TLYI^


The Sky in




September


by Scott Welty


The Planets in September
MERCURY -A morning 'star' all month. Brightest later in the month.
VENUS -Setting around 1900 hours all month.
EARTH Trying to take its own temperature.
MARS Riding along just to the right of Venus all month.
JUPITER -At its brightest this month! Rising in the east at about 2100 early in the
month and 1900 later.
SATURN -Sets about an hour before Venus/Mars.
Sky Events This Month
7th If you are lucky, have a clear east view, and are able to get up early (about
0500 hours) there should be a nice combination of Mercury sitting just under the
very thin sliver of a moon.
8th New Moon
10th Moon, Venus, Mars and the bright star Spica (in Virgo) setting together at
about 1900 hours.
22nd Autumnal Equinox (see below)
23rd -Full Moon
Autumnal Equinox
No, that's not a band name*. Equinoxn r *. .. .1 ...1.1 qual day and night.
It happens on the 22nd and marks the ........ I .. ....... As the sun moves
south in its yearly north-south motion, this is the day when it is half way in its
southerly passage. On this day the sun will rise due east and set due west. If you
stand up nice and straight at noon and happen to be on the equator you will cast no
shadow (vampires can do this on any day). NOTHING else happens. Eggs do not bal
ance on their small end, rabbits do not recite Shakespeare, there is no lessening of
the Earth's magnetic field.
Just as the vernal equinox was a sign.i I I ..I i ...... I ts the autumnal
equinox a signal to harvest and maybe ., .. i .... ..coming! In fact
September 25th is called Harvest Home -an ancient pagan holiday celebrating the
sacrificing of the barley, which is personified in the mythical being John Barleycorn,
so that many may live. In song form:
There were three men came out of the West,
Their fortunes for to try,
And these three men made a solemn vow,
John Barleycorn must die...
John Barleycorn Must Die became a quite popular album title for Steve Winwood
and Traffic in 1972. One of Jack London's autobiographical essays is titled John
Barleycorn and explores his own bout with alcoholism. Interesting that the Anglo
Saxon pagan tradition was that John Barleycorn must die a horrible death, but then


by eating his body (bread) or drinking his blood (wine or beer) many will be saved.
Hey, that sounds vaguely familiar!
The Great Square of Pegasus
August is a great time to sort out the Great Square of Pegasus (see Figure 1). Look
to the east-northeast. Look about halfway up to the zenith. You should see the bright
stars that form the body of this mythical winged horse. Jupiter is very bright now
and may help you locate the square. The two strings of stars lining up off of the
upper left corner represent the forelegs while the star' --ni;; r;i from the upper
right star are the horse's head. I guess you're on your I .... tail and back
legs. The lower left star is actually the first star in the Andromeda constellation.
Right between the top two stars and up a little is 51 Pegasi. This star is somewhat
famous for being the first star to conclusively have extra solar planets.
To Contemplate While Having a Glass of Wine on Deck
I've been writing this column for over a year now. Perhaps I keep missing something
you'd really like to hear about, so instead of contemplating anything this month why
not drop me a line and ask a question that's been bugging you about the universe. I'll
incorporate what I can in future columns. As Professor Irwin Corey once said, "You
ask why I am lecturing today about the universe. Well... what else IS THERE?"
Ask Captain Science: i .. .... ..
Actually after writing .. I I I I.. I ,, .d on Facebook called Autumn Equinox:
Fall. That's close!
Scott Welty is the author of The Why Book of Sailing, Burford Books, 2007.


Looking east-northeast on September 15th at 2100 hours


Sf $ r / they also leak nutrients that can nourish the epiphytes. The epiphytes are not
mostly at the top of the leaves where they can get more sunlight, but they prevent
pI f * sunlight from reaching the leaves. The leaves then can't make food by photosyn
thesis so they die and break off. Dead seagrass may wash up on beaches. Manatee
S r T grass in particular floats well because its circular cross-section holds lots of air so
SI I. the dead and broken leaves can travel great distances. The seagrass can be col
SA t.f elected from the beach as it makes good mulch for gardens.
C Excess nutrients which enter the sea from human activity on shore will promote
the growth of algal seaweeds that smother the seagrass. Cleaner water will allow
DIE E P S E C R E T S seagrass to grow as it can absorb nutrients from mud around its roots. The sea
by Elaine Ollivierre grass environment is important to the health of the oceans and its inhabitants so
y we must take care not to damage it.
Seagrass leaves do not always 1 1 -- and clean. If you look closely at them, Missing Word Puzzle
you will see that they are fuzzy :.. I I smooth. The 'fuzz' is made up of .1 The letters of 11 words are shown in the chart below. Cross off the letters of each of
and tiny animals that have made a home attached to the smooth surface ci 1l. the ten words given then unscramble the remaining letters to find the eleventh word.
Leaves. They are called epiphytes, which is the name for any organism that lives
on a plant. 1. BRYOZOANS I
What kinds of organisms live there? Lets look . ... ... ... .... order of size. 2. DIATOMS i i I II II
Algae are simple underwater organisms. Mor ,I .... 1.11 ,,i types of algae 3. EPIPHYTES i H I.
live on seagrass leaves, :.. i,, 1.... i and brown algae. Some algae look like little 4. FF- I 11 iii I l- II
boxes with two curved -. i 11I.1 1.1 together like a pill box. These are called 5. 1 - '
diatoms. Slightly larger but still microscopic are the foraminifera (forams). They 6. MICROSCOP i .-. f II
are calcareous zooplankton. This means that they are very tiny animals that 7. NUTRIENTS T T I- I F I II
produce snail-shaped shells made of calcium carbonate. Hydrozoans are polyps 8. SEAGRASS H I I
with waving tentacles around a single body opening that takes in nutrients and 9. SUNLIGHT
also expels waste matter. Bryozoans look like hydrozoans with a hard covering. 10. TUNICATES
They grow in colonies. Tunicates start life as tadpole-shaped plankton with
backbone and gills. They eventually settle and swap the backbone and gills for a
.-ri lil- tini- Answer on page 45
S ....... unlikely to be knocked off the seagrass because wat
eraa currents are slowed down by the tangle of leaves. But they might be eaten by
the small animals like sea urchins, crabs and shrimp, which find a home beneath
the seagrass. Seagrass leaves absorb nutrients from the mud of the sea floor but
u---------------------------------m













0 0RBE CO PSF


SARAH'S




SEAR(

Part 1

by Jim Hutchinson


oC


W W J it not for Sarah, there would
be no legend of Sailorman.
Sarah and Bill discovered
VEE him whi ..... he
tropical island of Quiaquia. Bill overheard a man .i -,. II I I1,, I a
bush ii... his friend a most remarkable adventure. The friend had
called 111111 ailorman". Sarah returned to the table in time to record the
f.. I ii... tie tale to another friend.
i' I ..' Sailorman online he shot to stardom. Bill's Blog is an
amazing and fanciful retelling of Sailorman, single-handed and unarmed,
defeating three armed pirates on the hiTh N ,.- > ln on t-, .-1--i-P1
J . ,, ... .. It is one of those I- ,,. ,, I I I I
S.. 1 heck this out!" The blog links to Voices From the
Bush (which has a factual account of the incident) and to Sarah's
Search, which out-clicked them both.
The fruits of Sarah's Search are where the soul of Sailorman is found.
Sarah's worldwide search of the web revealed Sailorman to be a serial
hero, not just a one-timer. He has been thwarting evil in the world's
ports and on the Seven Seas for many years. A signature trait is his
secrecy -nobody knows who did the deed. Sometimes the deed itself is
unknown. Sarah's long, tireless, dedicated, imaginative, and, in the end,
passionate research presents a real-life superhero with qualities of char
acter that compare with the best in the pantheon.
Sarah has returned to the small island of Quiaquia in search of her
hero. Even now she is hard at work. At her table in the :1 .. i -i
of the Old Frangi overlooking beautiful It We Bay, her -
her screen. Her finger occasionally slides and bounces the touch pad.
She doesn't hear the tropical mockingbirds, is unaware of the .- 11-
eating her banana bread, and is oblivious to the continuous :
voice out-shouting everyone at the Crab Pot, a hundred metres down
the beach. Oblivious until the voice roars the words "SHEKIMA CREEK".
That is the name of Sailorman's hideout! But neither Don Street nor
Google can tell Sarah where it is.
Sarah packs, pays, and runs. The voice roars on.
There are four at a table in the Crab Pot when she comes in, and two


at the bar. The four at the table fall silent, and notice
her eyes are fixed on Tom, holding forth at the bar.
Then Tom sees her.
"WELCOME TO QUIAQUIA!" he roars. "I'M TOM
SWIFT, MASTER OF THE ENTERPRISE! YOU'LL
HAVE HEARD OF ME! WHAT ARE WE DRINKING?!"
Now that Tom is part of the story, I'll turn him down
some. "Where you from?! Where you staying?! You
need to visit the Enterprise! What's your name?!"
And on.
The four at the table, Crab Pot regulars always
hungry for anything new, quietly speculate Tom's
odds of getting her aboard. They've got it wrong
this time.
Aboard the Enterprise, Sarah states her case. She
has heard the call of the sea and wants to learn all
that she can and feel the freedom. As a first step, to
confirm her vision, she must sail to a place that
nobody has heard of.
Tom knows just such a place, Shekima Creek. He
names a charter fee to which she readily agrees. So he adds half the cost of provi
sioning, as well. Since she wants to start right away, that will cost more, some kind
of port fee. She winds up paying for all of thb pr,-i-iinnin qpp-qrntl i his half is
already aboard. When she comments on .... ..... i i ... I ....... -1 is l-4' in
Tom replies, "Where we're going, money doesn't work!" Then he "borrow ...
money to settle his accounts well enough for him to leave and return.
Sarah can afford the cost. It is the Enterprise that tests her resolve. A survey would
condemn her, to which Tom would reply, "I ain't lost her yet!" He knows how to sail
her, which is good -the engine hasn't run for years. But Sarah, a total landlubber,
has no eye for such details. It is the state of the Enterprise downstairs ("Below!") that
is the test. Visions of Sailorman harden her will.
Great Iguana Island is over the horizon from everywhere, and a day-after-day pas
sage from Quiaquia. The Enterprise becomes a world of its own, bounded by its
horizon, full of sights, sounds, and sensations Sarah never imagined. She begins to
learn the motions and sounds of a small ship under sail, begins to see the sky, the
sea, and the set of the sails. Sarah is in Sailorman's world now, and enthusiastic
cally receptive.
Such is one of her realities. Another is Tom Swift -Tom Swift III, actually, third
in a line of seriously famous role-model heroes about whom books have been writ
ten, of which Sarah was previously unaware. Furthermore, the Enterprise is one of
many distinguished vessels of that name. Tom and his Enterprise seem to have
shared in the famous adventures of them all. Tom himself might be Sailorman
except that neither he nor the Enterprise resembles the computer models. Also, Bill
had actually heard Sailorman's voice -had it been Tom's, surely more would have
been said.
Despite being in pretty good shape already (she belongs to a gym), the passage to
Great rTun; begins hardening her body, particularly the long sessions at the bilge
pump. .. xlen boat has to leak! Otherwise she'd sink!" l ... .... .... ....
aboard the Enterprise is an "Authentic Experience!" With ... .... i I 'I
readily sees that it follows, "A captain never does ship's work!" Which seems con
firmed by the state in which Sarah found the Enterprise, and the fact that all ship's
work since then has been done by her. One might question i1.. .i. ...... account
executive's sanity, but once aboard, it was that or mutiny .. I ... I the work
needed to be done. As for her recklessness in trusting Tom Swift in other matters,
Sarah has a practical and determined competence when her mind is in control. Yet
the driving force evoked by "Shekima Creek!" is spurred by her heart... which, of
course, can explain anything.
They have good weather, a nice passage, and wait off the Creek for high tide.
Shekima Creek lies in a blown-out volcano crater at the spectacularly rugged south
end of Great Iguana.
Even for a shallower vessel with a working engine, the extensive shoals offlying the
invisible entrance and the maze of mangrove creeks within require good light, local
knowledge, and keen pilotage. Sailing in significantly increases the challenge.
Continued on next page














Continued from previous page ... SAHRA S SEARCH


So Tom's loud boasting to his crew as they sail into Reach Bay under Hog Island
is well earned.
"Swift's back," says Bar, lying in his hammock at The End of the Beach. "End of
quiet hour." Gizmo, who's come in for a cold one, groans in reply.

1 .1


Sam, who might have gone north or south, had been several months on the Creek
recovering from an armed pirate attack on his little cutter, Monad. A combination
of clever sailing, bad judgment, 1, 1 .. .. ... 1. 1 iim the victory. None of that
is mentioned. Bar is one of four i I I1 1 .11 -1 all sworn to secrecy bound
by friendship.
Well into the evening, Peggy and Samantha come in. Peggy is dressed as she will
for the arduous hike to Hard Bargain tomorrow, except barefoot, and has come for
the shopping list. Sarah had barely met them when Bar tells Tom to leave. So it is
time for Sarah to row the captain home.
Samantha invites her by in the morning
Lotus, anchored under the crater wall in the
north basin, Maho Bay.
Next month: Part Two.

S Author's note: It is an advantage when visit
ing exotic places such as Canouan, Mayreau,
and Wallilabou to pronounce the name as the
locals do. Quiaquia is pronounced "kway
kway" rhymes with Bequia.


I .. --- OW iJ


-I.-,


As at guiaquia, ,i .. i .... ... 1, . ... h .
learning nicely, ,, i 1 I ........ , i.. h I
Sailorm an, shew ,i ...i- I I ,,,
again. Hermind 1.. . i 1 ....i i i .
competence now t l .1 I I ...... I I II I,,,,
harbor where Sai .... ... i ii, ,
here or just one of them? Do they know of him or is he a secret
here as well? Firmly fixed at the top of her strategy is that no
hint of Sailorman can come from her until he is discovered,
maybe not even then. And she must not seem inquisitive except
in nautical matters, must be seen only as an eager newcomer.
They land at the other end of the beach from The End of the
Beach. Tom loads her with a case of rum and one of beer, and
takes a case himself -he'll send her back for the rest.
"Making our deposit!" Tom says at a nearly normal volume. A
subtle change has overcome him. In Quiaquia, he can get
thrown out of bar after bar and still have someplace to go.
Here, there is only Bar's place, The End of the Beach... which
isn't really a bar. At a small pile of rocks a hundred metres
from The End of the Beach, he mutters, "Hundred metres,
Tom, hundred metres!"
Bar takes Sarah's story at face value. Tom gives updates on
Quiaquia and a tale of the passage here while Sarah fetches the
rest of the "deposit". Then Bar gives a rundown on who is in
residence, in which Sarah is keenly interested.
Tamiko is here, of course, and Peggy and Samantha. Also
Trident and Jezebel Captain Tony is still alive. Ian's said to be
Si 1 .... 1 -. 1 '. reek. Max and Minnie on
S ii, . -1i,11 ,,,, i i "weather window"... been
S i .... -;ailed out several days ago
said north, but the wind favored south. Phil, Madeira, came
and went. No mention of Sailorman.


Read in Next Month's Compass:


Bonaire's Sea-Leg Stretching Hike


Yacht Crime Reporting: Can We Believe All We Read?


Some Favorite Caribbean Anchorages

... and more!


ANCHORAGE MOORING FACILITIES


S C 1 CARIBEE BATIK BOUTIQUE
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(range limited by the hills) BAR AND RESTAURANT
TOURS ARRANGED
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E-mail: wallanch@vincysurf.com































NICE, NICE,


VERSATILE


RICE!

by Ross Mavis
Rice is absolutely the perfect staple to have on
board. It is both easy to store and cook and versatile
in how it can be served.
It would be impossible to know how many people eat
rice today, but it certainly would be more than three
billion. Rice is one of the most important staples eaten
by humans in all parts of the world. This grain can be
traced back to at least 3,000 BC. It is thought that
India was its original home from where it quickly
spread to other places in Asia.
Rice was brought to North America in the late 1600s
and quickly became a cash crop. It was introduced to
the Caribbean and South America by European colo
nists as well as African slaves in both South America
and the Caribbean.
Both warmth and moisture are necessary for this
member of the r .in family to flourish. It grows
between two and -. I I tall in wet lands and has a
flower that produces the grain we enjoy today. The
countries of India, Japan, China, Thailand, Burma,
Indonesia and Bangladesh account for more than 90
percent of the world's rice production. Today you can
get many dozens of types of rice and some of the more
popular varieties fall into several main commercial
categories: Long grain, medium grain, short grain,
white and brown plus wild rice.
The long grain variety produces grains that separate
easily when cooked. Some, such as East Indian
Basmati rice, have a sweet perfumed flavour. The
short grain variety tends to be stickier when cooked.
i 1, .i-, ,I .... varieties is the Italian Arborio
] . I ... I ,I II creamy risottos.


The primary difference between white and brown rice
is the bran coating that is found naturally on all rice.
Brown rice has had the coarser husk removed, leaving
the bran in place giving the rice a light brown colour.
Rice that is polished has had the high-fibre bran
removed leaving a white polished product. One note of
caution, brown rice has a shelf life of about six months
and can become rancid if left ... i .... i,,-
Wild rice is not really a true :. I .. i I -a grass
seed. It provides a completely different texture and taste
from that of its distant cousins. Originally harvested
from lakeshores and shallow wetlands as a wild uncul
tivated crop, it is now grown commercially in parts of
North America. This almost black grain is coarse and
nutty, requiring washing beforehand to remove any
i .1,,. 1 .if. Although it needs longer to cook (about
i '- .... i the results are worth the effort. The nut
like flavour of wild rice can be used to advantage in
soups and some salads. It is more expensive than most
ot'; 1-. -f commercially produced rice.
quick-cooking rice, both white and
brown, have already been pre-cooked and dehydrated.
Like so many pre-cooked products, much of the vita
mins and other benefits of the raw product are lost.
Rice is such a great staple to have ready for first
course, entree or dessert.
The truly nice 1..... .1 . .. cooked and served as
a starch entree i i I il, . often there is rice left
over. Many cooks deliberately plan to make enough
for leftovers.
A delicious rice salad can be made from cooked


-C




white rice tossed with a vinaigrette dressing, diced
chicken or shrimp, and freshly minced red pepper,
green pepper and celery. The joyful colours will also
make your stomach laugh with delight.
My wife, Willa, and I love to take leftover rice and make
delicious fried rice that varies with our imagination.
Any additional rice over and above the amount
needed for fried rice or rice salad is turned into a
creamy pudding with the addition of raisins, cream,
egg and cinnamon.
Here's how we make fried rice from last night's left
over white rice:
Shrimp Fried Rice
2 Cups cooked rice per person
1 Tablespoon cooking oil
1 small onion, diced
1 stalk celery, diced
1 teaspoon sesame oil (optional)
Red, yellow or green pepper, diced
Cooked shrimp (or chicken)
Salt and pepper or soy sauce to taste
In a large frying pan over medium high heat, add
oil, diced onion and celery. Fry until onion is
lightly brown, stirring occasionally. Add diced pep
pers and wilt; then add the cooked rice and stir to
incorporate well. Continue to heat, adding sesame
oil or more regular cooking oil if necessary. Taste,
and season with salt and pepper. Add cooked
shrimp or cooked chicken at this point. Mix well
and continue to heat until ready to serve with soy
sauce as a condiment.


CREW VACANCIES!

Semail: crew@tradewindscruiseclub.com
TradeWinds Cruise Club operate a fleet of catamarans across
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We are looking for crew, mainly teams in the form of a Captain and a Chef/Hostess.
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We offer full training onsite in the Caribbean.
This is a FUN job with great earning potential. If you are willing to work hard and
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Anyone with an interest is welcome to apply.
If you would like more information about this job or send your CV to us, please
use this email address:
crew(atradewindscruiseclub.com
or by mail to: Bequia Marina, P.O.Box 194BQ, Port Elizabeth,
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Tel. St Vincent +784 457 3407 Tel. St Maarten +599 5510550


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- ......


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Friday until 8:45 pm
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_


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afford being in Sandy Island.
Summer is the season of cruisers in Carriacou. They
stay here two or three months, spending money on
food, repairs, scuba diving, taxis, tours, etcetera. Now,
because of the fee in Sandy Island, some of them are
gone, and others will not come to Carriacou, staying
instead around Union and PSV -free and nice
Sn-h-r..-= Please understand that many cruising
i .... i been very disappointed about this; some
left for Martinique, others for Trinidad or Venezuela,
only because they cannot afford Sandy Island any
more. Shops and tourist operators lose money because
cruisers have left Carriacou.
Would the MPA authorities please try to amend the
current fee for cruisers? A small "one time" fee, to be
paid at the same time during the clearing in process?
A lower (much lower!) package for two weeks or a
month? Or charge only during the peak season,
December to June?
i.... ."iy in-clearing process at Customs, before
S implemented, I asked the Customs officer
about it. He answered, "It is free!" I said I'd heard
about a US$10 fee, and his answer was, "Oh, no! That
would be a shame!"
I thank you for your attention.
Best regards,
Fred Dalle
Nemo


Dear Sally and Fred,
Don't panic yet; the US$10 fee is under review.
Under a co-management arrangement, the new
Sandy Island/Oyster Bed Marine Protected Area
(SIOBMPA) is now overseen by a board representing
non governmental organizations, community-based
organizations, Government Ministries, para-statal and
private associations.
Grenada's National MPA Coordinator advised that
this board begin charging for use of the moorings at
Sandy Island, using the fee of US$10 as currently
stipulated by government. This, however, is an inter-
im measure. As this issue of Compass goes to press,
members of the other MPAs in Grenada are in Carriacou
discussing several things, including coming up with
new fees to propose to the Cabinet. They will also con
sider the suggestion of having weekly/monthly/yearly
rates, or even consider whether long-term moorage
should be encouraged in MPAs. Yachts are allowed to
stay overnight.
To support the management of the protected area, the
Government of Grenada has hired and trained two
community members to serve as SIOBMPA wardens.
The wardens, who come out to collect fees, have report
ed increased acceptance of the fee following the initial
exodus of yachts from Sandy Island when the fee was
first implemented.
The board also realizes that some of the moorings at
Sandy Island were placed too close to each other and
this will be corrected. Some boundary markers are also
to be adjusted.
We'll announce when and if a new fee has been
decided on for Sandy Island.
Meanwhile, for more information on SIOBMPA con
tact Roland Baldeo, MPA Coodinator, Fisheries
Division, Grenada, at rolandbaldeo@hotmail.com or
(473) 440-3814.
CC

Dear Compass,
One might hope that Zipporah Gichumbi's pleasant
article on Trinidad's Scotland Bay in the August
Compass might do something to encourage yachts to
spend some time exploring Trinidad's anchorages.
Unfortunately, below the article is a note from
Compass about Trinidad regulations. Once again, you
have to take your papers to Customs and get stamped
permission from them every time you want to move
your boat in Trinidad waters.
While the Customs probably sincerely believe they
need to enforce this law, I find no evidence to support it.
The law, which has been on the books forever, was not
applied for many years as the yachting industry devel
oped. As far as I know this did not lead to any major
problems, so why start again? Most yachts ,,,
Trinidad are slow and more than a little scareci .
anywhere near Venezuela because of the I
pirates, so the idea that T&T Customs needs special
vigilance on foreign yachts because of the proximity to
South America does not make sense. If they were really
worried about smuggling they might put similar restrict
tions on Trinidadian boats, which include many fast
pirogues far more capable of a fast trip to the mainland.
Furthermore, if Customs really needs to know the
location of every foreign yacht at all times, it would be
simple to allow yachts to call up and let them know
every time they move. We are living in the 21st cen
tury, and all of us have phones or access to them;
there is really no excuse for the burdensome red tape
that has now been reintroduced.
The sad thing is this comes at a very bad time for the
yachting industry in Trinidad. I know of several very
good businesses, businesses that have served us well,
that are currently struggling.
Continued on next page


Dear Compass,
I own a sailboat, which I keep at Carriacou, Grenada.
Just before we left for the States in April we became
aware through an article in your great publication that
St. Vincent & the Grenadines was considering imple
meeting a requirement that all boats entering the
Tobago Cays must be equipped with, and using, hold
ing tanks for black water sewage.
Can you enlighten us as to the status of this regular
tion? Also, if it is to be implemented, do you have any
knowledge as to how it is to be enforced, how boaters
at large are to be made aware I i... ,, 1 .. (such
as boats just arriving in the i ...i i ... I. ... listant
countries), whether plans are in place to provide
pump-out facilities f I .- 1i .... i ... I what
penalties are to be it... i i .. ... 1 i ...
We are regular visitors to the Cays, usually spending
two or three-day visits six or seven times per season,
and we are trying to determine whether we must now
spend the large amounts of time and money to equip
our 1977 boat (with two heads) with holding tanks and
the additional plumbing.
If you do not have such information perhaps you
could direct us to an appropriate source?
Thanks for your help.
Harry Rezzemini

Dear Harry,
We contacted Tobago Cays Marine Park manager
Lesroy Noel, who says, "No regulations are in place as
yet in regard to holding tanks. The matter is being looked
atseriously. Boats without holding tanks are still allowed
to enter the TCMP with the hope that they will not dis
charge their waste where it will affect other visitors."
CC

Dear Compass,
Regarding the new Marine Protected Area announced
Si. ,,.. -i ..... of Compass, would anyone please
I i ...... I only me, but all other yachtspeo
ple, the exact proposed rates for the new moorings
that have been put down off Sandy Island, Carriacou?
At present I seem only to hear rumbling rumours.
Also how is the money to be paid? Will someone
come out and collect?
And talking of rumours, if you take a mooring at
Sandy Island are you allowed to stay the night? Or do
you pay only for the day and leave in the evening?
Would be grateful if these points could be clarified
for us all.
Thank you,
Sally O'Regan
Yacht Stillus

Dear Compass,
I spent all summer in Carriacou last year. I have
seen so many turtle nets around Sandy Island, and I
hope they will stop fishing turtles in this so special
eco-region. I understand that the new Marine Protected
Area is a nice and fair initiative. These areas need to
be protected, and to charge the users is the only way
to keep the park alive.
But the US$10 per night fee is far too much for
cruisers. It is okay for charterers, who will spend only
one or two nights in the park. But the situation is far
different for cruisers, who like to spend weeks or
months within the same area.
Cruisers take great care of environment; we clean
the beaches anytime we could because our children
are playing there, and because we find this a shame to
have plastics or cans in nature.
Sandy Island was the most attractive place for cruis
ers in Carriacou. Tyrell Bay is overcrowded, noisy, and
full of mosquitoes. Hillsborough is not a calm pro
tected anchorage.
Before the collection of the fee, there were ten or 12
private boats with children, families, using the moor
ing buoys in Sandy Island. And now, only one or two
boats can be seen in the park. Cruisers now cannot













-ontinuedfrom previous page
It would be impossible to develop a land-based tour
ist industry if visitors were subject to the same kind of
restrictions every time they wanted to move around
the country. It is exactly the same with marine tour
ism. I have spent some wonderful times exploring
most of Trinidad's anchorages. I almost certainly will
not bother to do so again while these restrictions are
in place, and I am sure there are many other cruisers
who feel the same way. Foreign boat owners will still
visit Trinidad to get work done; my boat is there now.
But, with these regulations in place, visitingyachtspeo
ple will not want to hang out and relax in Trinidad in
the way they need to if Trinidad is going to fully ben
efit from the: 1 .... industry.
Trinidad is .. I the few countries that have not
changed its Customs regulations in light of the mod
ern yachting industry. It is high time these laws were
reviewed and modernized and made yacht-friendly.
Sincerely,
Chris Doyle
Ti Kanot

Dear Compass,
In response to Chris Doyle's letter in the August
issue regarding Trinidad, there are points of fact that
cruisers need to be aware of. There have been six inci
dents of yachts threatened by pirogues or fishing ves
sels in the past two years in waters between Trinidad
and Grenada (excluding numerous incidents in
Venezuelan waters to the west). Four of these involved
I ....... men aboard. In three instance
I i I I and in two instances shots
were fired on the yacht. There was one successful
boarding. Of the four, three incidents occurred in
international waters between 35 and 42 nautical miles
north of the Boca de Monos (near the location of the
Hibiscus oil platform). The last incident was in
December 2009 (after a seven month hiatus).
As Mr. Doyle notes, there are hundreds of yacht
crossings annually and the fact of no reported inci
dents since December 2009 is good news. But to sur
mise that this is due to activity on the part of the
Trinidad & Tobago Coast Guard (TTCG) is unfounded
and speculative. The unnamed "different sources" that
Mr. Doyle "believes" need to be challenged. The addi
tional ships that the TTCG has received are berthed
next to me in Hart's Cut Bay and sortie only very
rarely (awaiting trained staff). The location of the inci
dents is well outside of Trinidad territorial waters and
not subject to normal patrols.
It strikes me as irresponsible to claim, on the basis
of hearsay, without even calling the TTCG to ask what
their activities might be, to claim that there is "extra
heat" applied. I would welcome confirmation that this
is so -but absent some facts, Mr. Doyle's "confi
dence" is nothing more than unfounded hope.
As an addendum, we have advised cruisers to ensure
that their VHF radio is DSC enabled, fitted with a MMSI
number and linked to their GPS. With this set-up, a
push of a button can send a distress signal with your
position and yacht particulars to all commercial, military
and DSC-enabled vessels in your vicinity. This is very
cheap insurance in the event of any security incident.
Regards,
John DeLong
S/VAlouette

Editor's note: We passed John's letter on to Chris
Doyle for comment, which follows.

Dear Compass,
It is true the new fast patrol boats are awaiting the
finishing of training of personnel, but there are other
boats, and one of my sources is a couple who were
stopped and questioned by the T&T coast guard
between Trinidad and Tobago, so they are out there.
My other source is hearsay, stories that have been
going around Trinidad, and I cannot be sure wheth
er they are true or not. Trinidad does now have an
agreement with Grenada so that the TTCG can cross
over into Grenada waters.
Chris Doyle
Ti Kanot

Dear Compass,
In reference to Daniel Mead's letter in August's
Compass questioning the ethics of boat boys claiming
fees for "-1i-:T yachts in distress, Mr. Mead glosses
over one I I that boat boys are making their living
assisting yachts, and thus they charge for their services
in emergencies as well as non--.-r.--i-- Thii-l- -f it
like Sea Tow, a US company w .. II - -. -1 ., to
vessels in trouble for a fee. Sea Tow won't save you for
free, and any country's coast guards aren't working for
free either: the taxpayers pay them. We cruisers, on the
other hand, are out here for fun, and we are free to
volunteer our assistance anywhere, any time and to
anyone we please, and that's a great 1l.. i ,, i .,
boys are in the business of assistance: ' .. 1
whether that assistance is -li"-rin. 1 l-lf -f r--d -r
re-anchoring a drifting boat I i ii, i i h II ... ...
mrn'-Tn-- th-- child be compensated accordingly.
... I .- of life or death, everyone should
assist and not count the cost. But if it's a choice


between iT-;;r; ; recious gas money and possibly
risking ... 1 .,, I your boat to help out some bozo
who didn't tie up his boat properly, or keeping your
means of livelihood and yourself safe and putting food
on your family's i .1 .1 1 . ...
As travel writer: - FirstWorld is not
invariably corrupting the Third, we are sometimes apt to
leap to the opposite conclusion: that the Third World, in
fact, is hustling the First. As tourists, moreover, we are
so bombarded with importunities from a variety of
locals... that we begin to regard ourselves as beleaguered
innocents and those we meet as shameless predators.
"To do so, however, is to ignore the great asymmetry
that governs every meeting between tourist and local:
that we are there i ... I i i I
stance; that we a. i ... ... 11 i .. .
adventure and romance, while they are mired in the
more urgent business of trying to survive; and that we,
often courted by the government, enjoy a kind of unof
ficial diplomatic immunity, which gives us all the
perks of authority and none of the perils of response
ability, while they must stake their hopes on every
potential transaction."
Sid Goodyear
S/V Peripatetic

Dear Compass,
In response to Name Withheld's letter in the August
issue regarding their experience with Portsmouth,
Dominica boat vendors, I'd like to share our own expe
riences with these vendors.
Our first year in the Caribbean, three years ago, we
bypassed Dominica due to the negative reputation of
the local boat vendors which we'd read and heard
about. By our second season, we'd learned that many
of the problems of the past were being addressed, so
we decided to stop in Portsmouth and check things
out for ourselves.
As we approached the bay, sure enough, one of the
vendors flew out to meet us in his pirogue. I thought,
"Here we go; I wonder what this is going to be all
about." We were warmly greeted and I called out,
"We're working with Martin!" (as suggested in the
guide book). He acknowledged with a wave and a smile
and returned to the bay.
Prior to this, we'd not had any first-hand experience
with assertive boat vendors and being a somewhat
private individual, I was a bit outside my comfort zone
when they approached us. Dave, however, readily
engaged these men in conversation and we got to know
them as individuals. That year we dealt with Martin,
who always presented himself in a kindly and profes
sional manner. He served as our guide on a couple of
island tours and hi-= 1-;----- 1- 1 .4 love for his island
shone through. -I .1 .... i i I island, I'd have to
say that every Dominican we've gotten to know
expresses a deep affection and appreciation for their
homeland -for good reason, because Dominica is
truly an exceptional gem.
As I mentioned, early on I felt out of my comfort zone
interacting with boat vendors I did not know, primary
ily because I didn't know what to expect. However, as
we got into the habit of quickly getting on a first-name
basis with each vendor and expressing an interest in
them as individuals, our experiences were enriched.
Most recently, this past April, we stopped in Dominica
for a few days. As we approached the bay, Alexis came
alongside in his pirogue, calling out to us, 'Welcome to
the most beautiful paradise in the Caribbean!" (the same
kind of greeting one would expect to receive upon arrive
ing at a tropical resort). We thanked him and invited him
to stop by once we'd completed our anchoring. He gave
us plenty of time and I Ill 1 inandthen
stopped by, telling ust1 .I' 1II I .- ... I tours.
Earlier, while we were in the process of -n-.-r:
few other boat vendors came near by and .11 ...
hello, I invited them to stop by once we were settled in.
Again, they gave us plenty of space and time. After we
were settled, Antonio, the fruit guy, stopped by to
show us his produce. As we sat and chatted, he
glanced out at one of the local "vendors" on a surf
board who seemed to be having a problem with the
outgoing current. Antonio excused himself, drove out
to make sure the other guy was not in trouble, and
then came back to continue our conversation. I made
a few purchases of fresh fruit.
In our own experience, we've found that going to a
new place with some negative preconceived expect
tions tends to taint our initial reactions, which for us
have quickly proven unfounded. We've also found that
in almost every case respect begets respect, hospitality
begets hospitality. Most Caribbean boat vendors are
honest and reputable entrepreneurs seeking to make
a living providing services and information to visiting
cruisers. But beyond that, they are respectable indi
viduals with whom we've had the pleasure of -:
in many interesting and lively conversation' I ,1I
sake of getting to know each other a bit more.
I hope that Name Withheld will give Portsmouth,
Dominica another chance. On the other side of that
coin, I hope that boat vendors of any island will con
tinue to find the vast majority of cruisers coming to
their islands do so with an appreciation for their ser
vices, information and hospitality.
Continued on next page


fBoat Insurance

Any Cra41 Aiy Use, Any Age, Anywhere


f O B00Ei


Admir alM


I www














-ontinuedfrom previous page
The cruising community is truly an international com-
: ...... i.... countries from around the world. I
i i...,i i I. relationship between boat vendors
and cruisers as one of bridge builders of a sort.
Michelle Daniels
S/V Daniell Storey

Dear Compass,
My wife and I have been cruising the Lesser Antilles
for the past four years. We have visited each island at
least three tim.-= 1n-h-r-i;. =-mewhere for periods
ranging from ..... i. I ... months. Sure, each
island is different and sometimes you can only scratch
your head, wondering what their officials are thinking
(or are they?).
We enjoy reading the Compass each month, with
peculiar interest in the Readers' Forum. After a while
you can tell the difference. i I .. ...',. and reality
but its still fun. I have I .. .1 ."' I the idea of
submitting a letter in response to something outra
geous or to reinforce a comment that rings true despite
popular opinion.
But after the response from Mr. Donald Stollmeyer
on behalf of the Yacht Services Association of Trinidad
S i Ron Llewellyn's observations in the July
: -. I I1 the overwhelming need to point out the
truth in his statement. Sometimes a politician actually
says something one can understand.
Mr. Stollmeyer stated, "Perhaps it is because when I
visit other islands my approach is cordial, I maintain
a friendly disposition and I keep an open mind to the
customs and the character of the island. I enjoy the
good and avoid the not-so-good."
In boat-speak he is saying his island is the way it is
and you, as a visitor, should maintain a cordial and
friendly attitude towards their "customs" (e.g. treat
ment by the Customs and Immigration officers) and
their "character" (pirates, pollution, local boats speed
ing through the *..--rt.- r---ing crime rate). It
sounds like he is .... i ,, ... heart into it or get
your boat out". I think we should take his advice and
avoid the not-so-good.
By the way, the French Islands have figured it out.
Make it easy and cheap to visit and cruisers will spend
money ashore: win-win.
Tony Grim
S/V Neshuma

Dear Compass,
Most yachties visiting our waters are pleasant
adventurers, who are interesting and usually not in
the first bloom of youth. Then there are the others.
These I put in the GY (Grotty Yachty) category. I sup
pose it takes all kinds....
However, I was incensed by Rob Minks' blistering,
unwarranted and vicious attack in the August issue of
Compi-- -n '-- -- friend Donald Stollmeyer, who is
not "''. i -.... or "childish" in defense of his
work and his country. Donald has worked steadily
and devotedly over many years to improve our yacht
maintenance product.
Yachties have their radio net where they "r-hPnl.-"
goods and exercise their daily moans and, .
there are some who feel that constantly complaining
puts them a cut above their peers. Trinis are not stu
pid, nor do we think we are perfect, but we keep trying
- and we refuse to grovel to visitors who are deter
mined to find fault with everything.
Where else, by the way, can you take on free water
and reasonably priced fuel and have free use of a
club's maintenance workshop?
Our Coastguard is presently understaffed as 80 of
their personnel are undergoing training in England.
We have great hopes in Trinidad in our newly elected
governments improved efficiency, but we also know
that this won't happen overnight.
Nan Hatch
Trinidad

Dear Compass,
In late January of this year my husband and I
relaxed in the cockpit, enjoying the sunset in Clarke's
Court Bay, Grenada, and reveling in our recent near
perfect passage up from Trinidad. Only the fact that
we made such good time and had to heave-to until
sunrise kept it from being a perfect "10". But who
could blame us for not slowing down when barreling
along at more than seven knots on a beam reach
under a full moon?
Anyway, as we enjoyed our sundowners we dis
cussed plans for some major boat upgrades and how
to manage the project while we were home in Ohio and
the boat was in Trinidad. Eventually we came up with
the idea to head back to the States in May 2011, find
a good boatyard in North Carolina, and return to the
Caribbean that fall. Sealing the deal was a friend's
offer to use her house during the project. And so, with
that plan in place, we settled back and enjoyed yet
another wonderful season sailing the Windwards.
That plan lasted right up until we returned to
Trinidad (for the fifth year in a row) in early May for
hurricane season haul-out. Ti .....1,I i ,|I was one
of our best sails of the s .- .. ... I .11 a rather
comical boarding by the T&T Coast Guard in


Chaguaramas Bay, we headed to the Customs dock. At
6:30AM as we passed CrewsInn Marina, we noticed the
dock master waving at us and welcoming us back
"home". Right then and there we knew it would be very
difficult to skip a season in Trinidad. The difficult
became the impossible as we met up with the accom
modating folks at Peake's boatyard and were warmly
appreciated as returning customers. So, within a
week, after interviewing several tradespeople, we had
all of the boat projects lined up for the off-season. So
far, work is progressing as expected and we receive
updates and pictures as requested.
We offer our experience as a contrast to the unfortu
nately common negative opinions of Trinidad within
the cruising community. Yes, Trinidad does have its
i, ..1 I .. -I many other islands. For us, the
i -. i i ... i i the issues. The range of services
offered in the Chaguaramas area is unmatched in the
Windwards, and the Trinidadians are among the few
people who "get" my husband's sense of humor. And
don't get us started on the food! Suffice to say one of
our first stops in January will be for either doubles or
shark and bake.
Pat Ripple
S/V Mirus

Dear Compass,
In April my husband, son and I had planned to
spend two weeks in St. Vincent. We had been buddy
boating with friends in the Grenadines for a while but
said our farewells in Bequia. They were all skipping St.
Vincent because of its bad reputation.
We had enjoyed some time in St. Vincent several
years ago, but being sucked into today's negative hype
I was not so sure what to expect this time round.
Due to unforeseen circumstances, we ended up
being there two and a half months. Over the course of
this tim i I Ii ...i. unguided and by our
selves, .... ... I .. .. 1 Vincent. We hiked to
waterfalls, the volcano and Vermont Nature trails and
even walked through Mesopotamia Valley. We bused
our way to the start of all of these trails (a ride that can
most often be compared to that in a theme park); no
taxis required. At no time did we ever feel threatened
or hassled. The Vincentians we met in passing were all
very friendly and welcoming.
We noticed a lot of effort T--if;; t -ito the island,
which is very encouraging : i I and tourists.
National Parks has built little offices with toilets and
information boards at the bigger sites and all the trails
were well maintained. In Young Island Cut there is a
new boardwalk under construction, which stretches
all the way along the waterfront restaurants and then
down to the beach.
We had an incident in Young Island Cut where my
husband had dropped his wallet (with a substantial
amount of money in it) without noticing, and it was
delivered back to the boat -with everything inside
-by a local man we didn't even know at the time.
On another occasion, I was in the dinghy with my
son when the outboard started giving trouble. A local
fisherman jumped into his boat and kindly towed us
all the way back home.
Kingstown can seem a little rough -let's not f -t
that St. Vincent is a poor island. I spent plenty I I..
riding ..- ... .ii .... - 1, I I ..... -I .. w ith
m y yoei.. .. ... I .. 1 .1 I .. .. able.
People were happy to answer questions, quick to give
directions and dish out information about particular
places. The vegetable market is a colourful experience
with a variety hard to beat. This goes for the fish mar
ket too. Supermarket shopping is great, with low
prices for stocking up. Some supermarkets even offer
discounts for boats.
It does depend on your level of "home-comfort"
required when traveling, so if you like things just the
way they are back at home, give it a miss. For rugged
beauty and a genuine Caribbean experience, I highly
recommend paying St. Vincent a visit. People are too
quick to jump on the bandwagon and harp on about
any negative experience they've had or heard about.
People so seldom take the time to mention the good
stuff. When you look at the crime that's really done to
VISITORS of these Caribbean Islands, I think you'll
find a lot less going on in St. Vincent than some of the
other much more visited islands.
Kate Rushby
S/V Free Spirit

Open letter to the Grenada Board of Tourism
My name is Marjut Valtanen and I have visited
Grenada and especially Carriacou Island for four con
secutive years now. I come every year during the sum
mer and spend at least four weeks. In the past two
years I have also brought other people with me (in fact
well over a dozen visitors from my own country), as I
wanted to share my great experience with them.
I come to Carriacou mainly because of nesting sea
turtles, but also because Carriacou is still a great
place to enjoy Caribbean lifestyle and people, nature
and animals. Every time I enjoy new encounters with
different animals like pelicans, frigate birds, boobies
and terns near shore, feeding on tiny coastal fish; then
K'u'nn' lizards and tree boas, manicou, morocoy
I ... I I rtoises); and of course the marine life, corals


and fish. I have taken thousands of photographs dur
ing my visits and shared these with my friends and
family, as well as publicly in on-line media. I believe in
showing to many people good photographs of nature,
because I feel that we appreciate and care less for what
we do not know, or do not know of.
Unfortunately during my visit this time I saw some
very disturbing things, which just proved this point.
I was very sad to see jewelry made out of critically
e. I. I .. ,. 1.. 1 -i ,1 .i . 1 ale on the street
01i 1.111 . I .. ... 1i of legal troubles
for tourists, who do not understand what they are
buying. In most of their countries it is illegal to bring
any product made of endangered animals or plants.
And most importantly, sea turtles are globally
endangered and we should protect them, help them
survive their present dire straits, so that their stocks
can recover and future generations could see them too.
Barbados and Trinidad have long protected their tur
tles and tourism business flourishes.
Another case that really shocked me happened on
my last day, in early July, when I was snorkeling near
Anse La Roche in the north of Carriacou. I had been
e"immnin. around for a while and taking photos of
........ 1.1 when three guys came in by speedboat and
started to spear fish close to where I was swimming.
This is a very shallow area where many species come
to mate and lay their eggs.
Afterawh:1 1. ..... I 1. i 1 to me,
while I was ,1 .... I, i i I 1 1, 1 1, there-
fore, concern I .1 .. ... .1 I ... I fish, I
decided to leave. While swimming back, I encountered
one of the guys who had many non-edible reef fishes
and two lobsters in his floating line.
I had to stop and ask him, why he is killing lobsters
during the closed season, according to Grenada's law?
He may have understood that I wanted to buy the lob
ster and handed one of them to me and there I saw the
cluster of hundreds r ..- n her belly! He speared
and killed a female I -1 i..11 of eggs ready to spawn!
I could not help but feel very angry and sad.
I told him I had a camera and took some photos,
which I attach here.


I was told that the very next day the same boat and
11,-- ---r there in the same area, carrying on their
SI i .. fishing", as they themselves called it when I
spoke to them while in the water.
I hope that Carriacou officials do more to educate
local users about what is acceptable to take out of the
coastal sea resources and about what is very negative
for the state of the country's fisheries and the sustain
ability of the coastal ecosystem. I got the clear impres
sion that these fishers hadn't a clue of what they were
catching: all that mattered was that whatever moved
could be speared.
Later on they were reportedly seen speeding away
with their outboard at full throttle. One can assume
that money was not their prime concern, given the
gasoli;.- T -- do not yet appreciate enough
how .. ... i ... the balance between habitat,
nature, humans and animals is.
Most Caribbean islands have great beaches and cer
tainly friendly people. But it is the natural character of
this island and its rare wildlife that makes Carriacou
special to me and those who came with me. When the
beautiful nature is gone, also gone are the reasons for
us to return and to promote Carriacou as an extraor
dinary travel destination to anyone.
Yours sincerely,
Maijut Valtanen
Finland

Dear Compass,
I write in response to an e-mail letter forwarded to
me, 27th July 2010, citing illegal fishing activities in
Carriacou. I believe the complainant to be the same
person who came into my office on July 1st, and left
with me copies of the photos.
Continued on page 45
















Letter of




the Month


Dear Compass,
In the July issue of Compass, there was a letter regarding Chaguaramas, Trinidad
as well as a poem. Both had negative commentary concerning the port.
There is no question tli, -i ... .. is a commercial harbor. As such and with
the presence of oil rigs .. I p .11 the harbor lacks what cruisers look for in
the Caribbean, i.e. clean water and white sand beaches. However all things are not
equal and thus should not be compared.
Chaguaramas, Trinidad
............ T. .idad is a support facility. In fact, it is unquestionably the larg
e -1 1 ... the Caribbean.
Between Peake's Boat Yard, Power Boats and Crewslnn, the combined tonnage of
the marine hoists is well over 400 tons. Nowhere in the Caribbean, and indeed in
many places in the world, will you find such facilities. In addition there are number
ous shops and technicians that have expertise in every aspect of marine repair and
maintenance. They are all in one central location. Competition to get work is fierce
and prices are moderate as industry rates go. The rates are certainly much less than
in the States and markedly lower than in the northeastern Caribbean in areas such
as Antigua and St. Maarten. There are large and well-stocked chandleries (Budget
Marine, Peake's and others) and parts are easy to come by. Whatever is not in stock
can be brought in easily as there is no duty on parts for "boats in transit". They are
simply sent to Customs, located at the CrewsInn Marina, and can be retrieved there
with little difficulty. One does not go to Chaguaramas, Trinidad to cruise. One goes
there to store one's boat for hurricane season and perhaps to get work done.


Over the last few months, it has become very much the vogue to "Trinidad bash".
The "bashers" now find everything wrong with Trinidad. Immigration and Customs
are rude! The Coast Guard does not answer calls! The harbor is dirty! There is crime
in Trinidad! The workmen are no good and the prices to do work on the boat are
high! Moreover a boat has been attacked crossing from Grenada to Trinidad and the
trip is dangerous, so why go? It is amazing to me how once we fall out of love, we
quickly notice all of the shortcomings someone or someplace has that we did not
notice before.
This will be my 15th consecutive year that I have brought my boat to Trinidad for
hurricane season. I want to say hello to Jesse James who has organized so many
wonderful trips for the cruising community. I want to visit with my expat American
friend Billy Wray, delivery captain, rigger and surveyor. I want to say hello to Fabian
at Budget Marine and the men that work at the yard at Peake's. I want to have lunch
at Power Boats and eat dinner at Joe's Italian restaurant. I also want to speak to Ron
from the yacht "Name Withheld by Request" to find out why he was so negative in
his letter that was posted in the July Compass about his experience in Trinidad. He
even complains that his wife is the victim of wolf whistles. Perhaps I am married to
an ugly woman, for no one has ever whistled at her in Trinidad. However, like Chris
Doyle asserts about St. George's, Grenada, I think she is the prettiest one in town.
When Ron says that "many people now will not even bother reporting incidents (to
the Coast Guard), as they .. .. i..... ii done", I would like to know who the
many people" are and wh 11 i ... i .I -" they endured. I do not know what
type of medical problem keeps Ron "trapped" in -i .... ...... but I agree with Don
Stollmeyer of Power Boats when he says that. I ... dulously through the
writer's plethora of exaggerations, blatant inaccuracies and half-truths". My experi
ence does not match up to Ron's comments and I agree with Ruth Lund who wrote
in the June Compass, "The good in Trinidad far outweighs the bad and I am happy
to be here". I think she sums it up succinctly.
I will also have some work done on my boat from my never-ending "To Do" list of
maintenance and repairs. I have no illusions about Chaguaramas and know what it
is. I know that I may get a quirky Customs officer on entry who will speak tersely to
me. I understand that the water will not be pristine in the harbor. And crossing from
Grenada to Trinidad I will not forget that the Yacht Triton was boarded en route by
Venezuelan pirates on December 21st, 2009. This is the "price" I will pay to be in
Chaguaramas. There are some offsets however. There always are. I will not react to
the terse Customs officer and he will get tired of being terse and I will go back to my
boat with my entrance papers in hand. Last year I told him "I was sorry" for a mis
take I made in n I ., i,, o Customs at 4:00 in the morning when I arrived and
he told me that I .... i ..I .. i. ii i 1 L county). I smiled and
waited for the verdict o ... I o I .,... .11 I", I, 1 --I imped my papers and
I went on my way. Additionally I will not swim in the water in the harbor for I know
that it is foul. I will go somewhere else to swim in the sea, or else swim in the pool.
Follow the oil rigs and your route is predictable
As to crossing from Grenada to Trinidad, I will take every precaution. The one that
I never see mentioned is the most effective one and that is the method I will employ.
Pirates are bullies but they are not particularly bright and they are, on the average,


bad seamen. I will not take the "oil rig route" to get to Trinidad.
If the wagon trains going from the Eastern US to California had always taken the
same route, California would never have been settled, as traveling through the same
Native American territory each time would have resulted in a turkey shoot for the
"Indians". I will not follow the rhumb line and this will reduce significantly the prob
ability of being encountered by them. If they are there waiting at the oil rigs or close
by, it is usually when the seas are reasonably calm. Eight men do not go out in a
high-powered pirogue in six-foot seas when it is blowing 20 knots.
The pirates who attacked Titon
were Venezuelan. If you spend
time in Latino countries you will
quickly come to realize that they
have a great respect for, or in
many cases, a tremendous fear of
the sea. We are -ri=in.r sailors
and the sea is ,,, Ih We can
outsmart pirates because we can
sail and understand wind and
current, whereas they rely solely
on guns and high horsepower
outboards. There has been one
documented boarding on this
crossing and it has shaken the
cruising community deeply.
However, where do you find com
plete safety today as a cruiser?
There have been attacks against
cruisers in Antigua, in St. Lucia,
in Dominica, in Venezuela, in St.
Vincent and most recently in
Simpson Bay, St. Martin (see
report in last month's Compass).
Some of the attacks have resulted
in death and in other cases inju
ry. There have been cases of reported theft in virtually every location in the
Caribbean. Crime against yachtsmen is not something new. Joshua Slocum, in his
book, Sailing Alone Around the World told of repelling boarders more than a hun
dred years ago.
For all of the above, I understand that this is the price I have to pay to be in
Chaguaramas, Trinidad. For the price, what do I get in return? First and most impor
tantly, I am out of the hurricane zone. Secondly, I can get the work I want done well
and at a competitive price with the greatest number of choices to suit my whim and
fancy. Some say that prices in Trinidad have risen and that the quality of work has
-n ----ni ii t there is no proof for that statement and in fact it is highly subjective,
I I i. I Prices usually always rise and what cruiser among us is not sensitive
to that? What keeps prices down is competition and nowhere is competition for work
more fierce than in Chaguaramas. As to the quality of work, that always depends on
who you choose, no matter where you are.
Grenada after Hurricane Ivan
There are alternatives to Trinidad. Grenada is an excellent one. We get to avoid
making the trip to Trinidad. The water where I will be anchored will be clean and the
beaches will be white sand. There will be many of my fellow sailors around to keep
me company. The entry process and the officials have become in recent years very
user friendly". And there are facilities that I can use to work on my boat. They are
not equal to those in Chaguaramas in sheer size or number, but they are excellent
and there are sufficiently welltrained technicians available should I need help. That
is a great deal of benefit and as a result everyone is high on Grenada.
The well known cruising guide author Chris Doyle is quoted in July's Compass as
saying that St. George's, Grenada "has always been the prettiest town in the
Caribbean". I would agree that St. George's is one of the nicest looking girls at the
dance, but I cannot agree that only she is the prettiest. Certainly English Harbour,
,I,.,, a and Gustavia, St. Barth's would be in the runnn; James Michener, the
I .... American author, called St. Lucia's Marigot li I, most beautiful in the
Caribbean". It seems when we are in love, there is none other as pretty. But in
Grenada, the price to be paid for all the beauty and lack of commercial work harbor
atmosphere is that the island is not out of the hurricane zone. In 2004 Hurricane
Ivan brought enormous amounts of 1 n
The poem in July's Compass says - I growing sure and fast, for Ivan's
blow is in the past". Ivan's blow is most assuredly in the past, but Hurricanes Bert
or Harry are in the future and where they will make landfall, no one knows. What I
know is that I want to be certain, or as certain as can be, that I will not be where it
will strike.
No 'one size fits all'
Many cruisers now leave their boats in the British Virgin Islands for hurricane
season. There are also boats left in St. Maarten and in St. Lucia. Some even choose
Venezuela. There are in fact many good choices and all the,. I .- ...- i, .1 with
those choices as to where to pass hurricane season. No on I I .- ...I. I very
one. I have no commercial interest of any kind in Trinidad and do not recommend it
for everyone, for as any location that can be chosen, it has its own shortcomings.
However, I can choose it, without having to invalidate the other choices that can be
made. It can be the right choice for me, but I do not have to prove it to be sure I am
right about the fact that I am right.
Chaguaramas, Trinidad is a fantastic and marvelous resource for all cruising sail
ors. For those who cruise the Caribbean, the Caribbean is "our sea" and the resource
es that exist support our lifestyle. I would not dismiss a resource as unique and
excellent as Chaguaramas without careful thought and consideration, for while
pirates are dangerous and commercial areas unpleasant, hurricanes are no less
dangerous and unpleasant. In fact they impact many more lives and much more
property in a single event, than any one isolated pirate attack. Many believe that
another hurricane touching down on Grenada is unlikely. Perhaps they are right.
But in the final analysis, one has to consider the cost-benefit ratio as it applies to
our own personal tastes and preferences.
I think if we want Chaguaramas, Trinidad to improve, we need first to applaud
their many years of commitment to the yachting industry and all of the investment
that has been made. I have spoken to many of the people that work in the yachting
industry in Trinidad and they feel as if they have been written off and condemned
without sufficient cause. They are very aware of their shortcomings and the Yacht
Services Association in Trinidad, YSATT, is working to implement the changes that
the yachting community wants and needs. A public "stoning" is not what is needed
to maintain and improve the resource that Chaguaramas is. What is needed is a
clear n-1 r=t .--.li that pluses do not come without minuses, and that no one loca
tion :- 1 I I that the invalidation of an entire industry in a given area is to
throw out the "baby with the bathwater".
Frank Virgintino, Author
Free Cruising Guides




















































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becky @huskysalvage.com


WHATS ON MY MIND






by Michelle Fleming

Men, men, and more macho men.... After two years of cruising along the Windward and Leeward Islands, this
journey along the south coast of the Dominican Republic has me culture shocked. Sure, speaking Spanish is an
issue, and yes, dealing with all the ., .,i ... i I -. i... .... .... But in the Dominican Republic you don't
send a woman to do the man'sjob ... I i .1.., .11, ,II .1- ',, I Ir in Territory. So, gals, if you are frustrated
with all the forms to fill out in Antigua or are annoyed by the overtime charges for Saturday Immigration in Dominica,
pull up a gin and tonic and read on.
I ts March 2010. My husband, Roy, and I
are in Barahona, an unexpected stop on our
way out of the DR. Finding it impossible to
g I I ....... I .. Illecountry
ihl -aI liw I. y ..... I fivehour
motor trek across the bay yesterday.
As we have come to expect, the Immigration
official came out to the boat within minutes
of our arrival. He picked up our passports
and returned them with the requested inter
national departure stamps within the hour.
He said the despachos would be ready in the
morning. Sounds good, we'll just go pick
them up.
The next day I head over with Roy to the


SLeft: Ting up the dinghy at the wharf in
SBarahona. Maybe I should have stayed in it...

S .- s R Below: Everything was fine once Captain Bill
Sa and Captain Roy joined the two Marina de
S Guerra officers and Fernando


Marina de Guerra office. I'm doing pretty
well with the Spanish phrases, so Roy
waits in the dinghy while I walk up to the
building. We have forgotten that this is
Man Land.
Off I go into my folly where much
hand shaking and holas and 'wine
despacho ensues. I'm told that the i i
man" is just pulling up in a car. He
walks up and we are introduced. I shake
his hand and take in the full military
dress. Clean, pressed and new, the uni
form is a little tight in the midsection,
but impressive enough. He gives a few
orders and two young Marina de Guerra
officers go inside to the offices. Someone
finds me a plastic chair to sit on. I get .
the feeling that I'm going to be here for a
while and I wonder about the somewhat
quizzical looks cast in my direction.
The "head man" is a take charge kind
of guy and once he settles in under a
shady tree beside the office, he indicates
that I should go inside and talk to the
Commandant. My Spanish is getting me
nowhere and by now there are several young men of undeterminable rank following me. The Commandant is
behind his desk and he asks me some questions in Spanish with a very cranky tone. I answer pleasantly with my
four year old's vocabulary. Neil. I ..- .- i. .,I .i. . ...i s of this conversation. He leaves the room and I'm
still standing there when the y .... I ...... i .. .... ... -; me back outside. By now "head man's" girlfriend
has arrived and she's sitting in my chair. I'm relegated to the bench along with the youngest officer. Finally it
dawns on me: the folks here are expecting someone else! Someone a lot taller with a deeper voice, perhaps.
Soon, along comes one of the port workers. Fresh out of a spectacularly grimy engine room, his formerly white
T shirt and bluejeans look stiff enough to stand up all on their own. A big black smear of something highlights his
one cheek. Fernando arrives at my bench and reveals that he is the translator. I am pleasantly and completely
shocked as the best English I've heard all week flows out of this mouth. Fernando quickly explains i .'. Ii.... the
despacho is no problem, but really, he wonders, where is the captain? Its only proper that both 1 I ....- I the
two Canadian boats there's another in the harbour should be present for this process. Fernando is somewhat
incredulous that I don't know this.
Now I understand. The issue isn't a lack of communication; it's a lack of testosterone. No problem, I tell him. I
can see Roy has abandoned the dinghy, climbed up on the cement pier and is walking towards us. Fernando tells
Roy about the captain shortage, so Roy heads back over to find Bill from Voyageur C. I go back to my bench under
the shade tree. The "head man" has called for the domino table to be brought out and his girlfriend nuzzles his big
-tr- 1 arms. Sheesh. At least I can chat with Fernando. Fluent in English and Greek, he reassures me that we'll
I I to leave the DR tomorrow, but there will be a fee of $30 per boat.
Captain Roy and Captain Bill arrive and they are immediately ushered into the office by two Marina de Guerra
officers, followed closely by Fernando. I wait for ten minutes under the tree then decide to go on inside as well. I
find the men standing around in the office opposite to the Commandants, watching the youngest officer fill out
the forms. Fernando explains that this is the new guy and he's a bit slow. Who wouldn't be slow? The lad is care
fully typing our information into a form on a manual typewriter. He is using carbon paper and you can bet he
doesn't have any "white out" in case of mistakes. No wonder he is taking his time. I've already heard him get
loudly reprimanded twice in the past hour. He bravely completes the forms striking each key slowly, but surely.
When he is finished we celebrate with a photo shoot. I feel like I'm on a movie set with that manual typewriter
and ancient office furniture. Everyone has fun having their pictures taken. I give Fernando 50 pesos for helping
with the translations. He seems i. .1 ,1 .i. 111at. Roy and Bill fork over the money to the Marina de Guerra
officer who was supervising the: .... I . I', the coveted despachos in hand we head for the door. Outside,
we all wave and thank the "hea ...... .- .11 quickly past the dominos table. I notice that the girlfriend is
very excited and appears to be winning the game.
No doubt about it, it's a man's world here in the DR. When it comes to -1I-lin. with officials, gals, be prepared
to put on a pretty smile and let your man do th- tll-'.;1 ow when the I', .1- come onboard I imagine myself
traveling back in time to an idealized day in ,-,, I ,, I sing up from the galley, "Can I get you and the
Customs gentlemen another Presidente beer?"
Michelle Fleming is cruising the Caribbean aboard S/V Bonanza.

















Expensive, Slippery and Shiny:

A DEADLY COMBINATION

by Keith Bowen



yachtsmen can end up being
the not so proud owners of
equipment that is not only unfit
for purpose, but has the poten
tial for inflicting severe damage
to our own and other vessels as
well as being the source of
physical harm to those aboard.
I refer to stainless steel
ground tackle, anchors, swivels
and chain.
In deference to the stated
policies of the Compass maga
zine in this regard, I have omit
ted any inclusion of the names of the specific companies involved in this saga, but
as the safety issues are so obviously of great import, I felt that this problem should
be aired.
This tale of woe starts in the Eastern Caribbean, whe-- -Irin: nn T became
aware of a particular anchor design that happened to be :i ..... ....- I I I 1out of
stainless steel, and after investigation decided to purchase one.
The loc -1--r nt r--- -- that I purchase the complete system manu
factured II ... ..... 1. ... -- .- ting not only the stainless steel anchor, but
also the stainless steel ball and socket type swivel and most importantly (in order to
avoid electrolytic action between dissimilar materials) their 10mm stainless steel
chain made from 316 TI (Tungsten enhanced) material.
After much soul searching, I decided that I would take his advice, and purchase
the "system" including 75 metres of the chain, even though this .. -
myself of my existing galvanized chain and paying a considerable i ......... i I
chain. The vendor and I parted company with his assurance that I had made a wise
decision that I would never regret.
Initially the system worked exactly as I was assured it would, that was until a few
weeks ago when we were at anchor and a squall c ... Il.... using 35 to 40
knots. Suddenly we were traveling through the fleet. I I to admit that we
were in fact dragging. Fortunately it was 0900 hours, and both my wife and I were
on board, and so we were able to start the engine and control the situation with no
damage to either ourselves or any other yacht in the vicinity.
During this process, when attempting to ..1. he anchor, you can imagine our
amazement in finding that we had no ancld re anchored using our backup
system, after which we went diving to find our missing stainless steel anchor. I am
pleased to report that we were able to locate and retrieve the anchor, together with
18 metres of chain still attached to it and the swivel. (At the time of anchoring we
had approximately 50 metres of chain deployed.)
We were also able to retrieve most of the failed link, and we were again amazed to
discover that the failure was caused by disintegration of the metal from the inside,
and not due to any external 1 -'-'. corrosion. Furthermore, it was evident that
the nature of the material at 1I I l.I'-, point was black and crystalline in texture
and appearance, the failure point forming an annulus immediately adjacent to the
weld point. (See photograph.)
Correspondence with the vendor has failed, despite my explicit requests, to elicit
any direct contact with i' i ... ... 1. 'hom held 1. .... i. i.. .i
replies emanating from i i.. .- -... whoatthe i i I ',
that I have no recourse in this matter.
I have also written many times directly to the management of the European com-
pany that provided the equipment, in an attempt to allow them the opportunity to
confirm or deny their agreement with the Caribbean vendor's standpoint -none of
which even produced an -1-- --1- 1- t -f --l t let alone a definitive response,
until eventually in respori- I ,.. 1.111. I 11 I Jed a letter totally I n-in? -ny
responsibility, and inferring that the chain was not of their manufact .. i is
despite the vendor having provided me with the contact details of their firm, and
without them having seen the chain in question.)
Subsequently, due to the attitude of both these com]l nI 1 -1. 1 .li ;-. -
own enquiries in this regard, and have found that the :. I I, il i .. i .. ...
unique, with many other users of stainless steel ground tackle having experienced
the same problem; :. 1. i... I.... being that the failure is due to the fact that dur
ing the fusing proc - i ........ ,I. link, the high temperatures required to fuse the
metal can, and frequently do, cause the carbon and chromium elements of the steel
to combine to form chromium carbide crystals either directly on or immediately
adjacent to the weld point.
This being the case, it has become evident that the chain is "not fit for use" and
that the cause of the failure is in fact either a latent or even a patent defect.
The huge concern, apart from the possibility of the failure of any link in the chain
at any time, is the fact that as far as I can ascertain there is no visual means of
identifying potential failure areas, which makes anchoring a definite contender for
"Russian Roulette" status.
In conclusion, for those of you who may, despite the foregoing, still consider invest
ing in this product, I copy below some of the comments made by the spokesperson
of the supplying company. These were contained in the letter in which they denied
all responsibility. It is important to realize that these conditions of treatment of the
product, non-specific and vague though they may be, are only brought to light after
the product has been purchased and suffered a failure.
"The reason of corrosion is mostly not the material, so not the fault from the pro
ducer or the dealer. Handling stainless steel chain isn't so easy, because you have
really take care about it. For example: It is important to wash the chain periodically
with fresh water. Also the winch has to be installed completely isolated from external
electrical sources and so on."
Keith ("Taffy") and Shirley Bowen cruised the Caribbean aboard the South African
sailing yacht The ROAD. They are now in the Pacific. John Rowland profiled them in
the December 2009 issue of Compass.


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Tel: (340) 779-1660
Fax: (340) 779-2779
yachts@lslands.vi


42' 1971 Grand Banks
CG Cert. 42 passengers
Excellent condition $99,000


46' 2000 Jeaeau 45.2
Twin helms, 3 staterooms
Great Condition $124,900


Sail
34' 1983Hunter Freshwater boat, well equipped
40' 2001Jeanneau Sun Odyssey, 3 storms, great condition
44' 1977 CSY Excellent cruiser, great condition
60' 1982Nautical Ktch 4 staterooms, great charter vessel


32,000.00
119,500.00
115,000.00
219,000.00


Power
30' 2002 Hydrocat 300X Exp. CC Obv. Twr, Diesel Ymrs230 HP, exc. cond. 69,000.00
32' 2003 Sea Ray 350HP Mercruisers 95,000.00
34' 1989 Sea Ray Express Twin Diesels, 465 hrs. Genset, A/C 55,000.00
48' 1999 Dyna Craft MY Cruiser with, 435HP, 2 Strms, A/C, Low Hrs. 299,500.00

Call, fax or visit our website for a complete list of boats for sale
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IMULTIHULLS: 42' Beneteau First 42s7'95, Fast 95K m
82'Dufour Nautitech'95, 10cab/10 hd 795K 41'Bavaria 2003,Well Maintained 120K
58'Voyage 580 2005; Luxury Cat 990K 41'Formosa CT 41 '74;Many Updates 110K
56' Fountaine Pajot Marquises'99 750K 40' Beneteau M 405'94.Spacious 95K
.,.i I ., 11, .,,,, I .,I ., e 465K 40'Bavaria2002;Great Price 99K .
41 L,1....r, h 0 .". I.',.I'i 299K 38'(2) Freedom'86/'88;Great Layout 85K
,.., .. ,:,, I I. I, i. 230K i e- r- l i, -iiC .'.'- ; :, 75K
SAIL: *. i. 1 I :. I .- 39K
,r .i .... ... .. .. 399K 36'Moody36CC'97;StrongCruiser 109K
Ii, Hl,, I .1., ,jr. .11 .. -,... 590K 36'Beneteau Oceanis 361 2000.Clean 75K
S .. .1 r. i .j 1 239K i- I 3lmc.ci n, i t '.., t lat"J i"-i4 39K
50'Beneteau Oceanis50'07; Nvrchrtd 299K i.- *' .. ... I. ..... 125K
49'Jeanneau49DS'05/'06;2 avail start: 369K 32'Beneteau321 1998;PerfectCruiser 39K
46'Hunter 466'02; Immaculate 217K 32'(2) Bavaria'O2/'03;AirConditioning 45K
45'Downeaster'79, Rare Schooner 99K
45'Columbia45DS'73Tripp Design 55K POWER:
44'ME *... i. kI .. '. i 239K 63'Johnson MotorYacht'91 Luxury 375K
44'CSS, OAhi.-, ? .A t.I.tfl n 'ri 1 74K 52'JeffersonTrawler'89:4cab/4hd 144K
43'Gulfstar43 MKII 1977 Spacious 69K 48' Sunseeker Manhattan'97,3cb/2hd 325K
43'Beneteau Idylle'84; New Yanmar 89K 48'1988 Hi Star Trawler Total Refit 269K
43'Jeanneau43DS2002;Great Crsr. 134K .... T ,.i;,, i..., T. i ;i 29K
42'Endeavour'90;Great Liveaboard 99K 3 r,.,u 7.,-: Fu .-'iC..':i- 99K
42'Albin Nimbus'81 Cutter 75K I I 1 ..., I 1.....1 1 .. ,. I 95K
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Client Service This is an entry level position you must be personable, happy and ready
to make our client's vacations special boating knowledge is a plus.
Parts Clerk-we need a detail oriented OCD person to help us keep track of all our loose
screws boating knowledge and computer skills are a big plus.
PART TIME
Charter Briefer -This is an ideal job for the semi retired cruiser that wants to earn extra
money You will meet and greet charter clients, familiarize them with their charter boat and
take them for a brief test sail. You must be able to demonstrate all of the mechanical
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ease and then, after a brief test sail send them off on a great vacation. You can work as
much or as little as you desire.
All candidates must be legal to work in the US. Apply by email to kirsten@cyoacharters.com


SEPTEMBER


4-5 Back to Schools Regatta, Tortola. Royal British Virgin Islands Yacht Club
(RBVIYC), tel (284) 494-3286, rbviyc@rbviyc.com, www.rbviyc.net
6 Labor Day. Public holiday in USVI
10 Date statistically most likely to host a hurricane
12 Barbados National Dinghy Championships, Day One.
http://sailbarbados.com
19 Barbados National Dinghy Championships, Day Two.
http://sailbarbados.com
23 FULL MOON
25 Open Sail to Norman Island, RBVIYC




OCTOBER

2-3 Pete Sheals Memorial Race (IC24 Match Racing), Tortola. RBVIYC
3 9 43rd Bonaire International Sailing Regatta. www.bonaireregatta.org
9 Willy T Virgins Cup Race, BVI. RBVIYC
9- 16 Port Antonio International Marlin Tournament, Jamaica.
rondq@mail.infochan.com
13 26th Annual Port Antonio Canoe Tournament, Jamaica.
rondq@mail.infochan.com
16 Anegada Pursuit Race (Tentative), BVI. RBVIYC
16- 17 J/24 Invitational Championship, Barbados.
23 FULL MOON
27 Independence Day, St. Vincent & the Grenadines. Public holiday
29-31 13th Annual Foxy's Cat Fight, Jost Van Dyke, BVI. WEYC
29 31 World Creole Music Festival, Dominica. www.wcmfdominica.com
30 1 Nov Triskell Cup Regatta, Guadeloupe. www.triskellcup.com


All information was correct to the best of our knowledge
at the time this issue of Compass went to press but plans change,
so please contact event organizers directly for confirmation.
If you would like a nautical or tourism event listed FREE in our monthly calendar,
please send the name and date(s) of the event and the name
and contact information of the organizing body to
sally@caribbeancompass. com.


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S Carriacou


Grenada


TechNick Ltd.
Engineering, fabrication and
welding. Fabrication and repair of
stainless steel and aluminium items.
Nick Williams, Manager
Tel: (473) 536-1560/435-7887
S.I.M.S. Boatyard, True Blue, Grenada
technick@spiceisle.com


continued on next page -


LUMBADIVE PADI Hewn
rynabw. K"bmwh, Cwnswu. Gnime"wesi bno*s
RK (4731443,85M CaC (473) 4574539
Skype: kiffOW" VH11i 16
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4DI
Cirt ea Com as Iare I II


Martinique













Voiles Assistance
Didier and Maria
LE MARIN/MARTINIQUE
Sails & Canvas (repairs & fabrication]
located at Carenantilles dockyard
Open Monday to Friday 8- 1 2am 2-6pm
Saturday by appointment
tel/fax: (596] 596 74 88 32
e-mail: didier-et-maria@wanadoo.ff


LMOO4N6 FofL FAS ?



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Shipchandler. Arihmer
Le Marin. Marlinique
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Contact us at
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Dominique AMICE
Portde Plaisance, 97290 Le Marin, Martinique, FW.I.
Tel: 05.96.74.94.02 Fax: 05.96.74.79.19
Mobile: 06.96.28.70.26 m acyb@mediaserv.net
www.acyachtbrokers.com www.bateaux-antilles.fr

St. Lucia

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Steaks Seafood Pizzas
Marigot Bay, St Luci
Third Generation locally.
owned & operated.
Happy Hour All Day & -II IJ.. ht
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Free docking for yachts dining with us!
Free Water Taxi Pick Up
from your yacht to our dock!
5 and more people & captain eats for free!
Phone: 758-451-4772 VHF 16


Specialistin .1 1_,
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C C DYNAMIC

Director
Lawrence Lim Chee Yung
ala ChinamanI .
Fabrication or pulpits, sta-hions, davits, cahinplates,
anchor Irakets, solar panel arces 6mo
Rodney Bay Boatyard, Gros Islet, St. Lucia
Tel: (758) 485-0665 or (758) 384-0665
e-mail: ..... 1....34@yanoo.com


( REMEMBER
to tell our advertisers you
saw their ad in Compass!


St. Maarten

SCIRExpress
COURIER SERVICES
St. Maarten/ St. Martin, collect
and deliver door to door
ST. MAARTEN
Packages Pick up call:
Tel/Fax: + (599) 544-3276
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rm.








[ Trinidad



GITTENS ENGINE

-- Marin Diesel Engine

Cenett rao

YANMAR C FORD LANCInG




f iDock
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ELECTROPICS
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Pt5RUSQ
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contain on next page

continued on next page --














I Uarbb a Co p s Iare I~e I


Trinidad


CARIBBEAN MARINE
ELECTRICAL LIMITED WO9'
-----AC & DC SYSTEMS

Hi. h Output Alhrr O-atn & iRgulaton
h- C r'ger & Irnerier Chafges
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-n t Ia Lt.MA1I -" iM


L Caribbean-wide









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IcPrsor Cr&ylrp WiSu" tyn R Cagutramas Tnhrda W.i I
- 'Ph '147ia I 37 4 1 71 I VHF Cf4 @ re n]n


-Continuedfrom page 38 ...Readers' Forum
The information was immediately forwarded to the
local police for investigation. On receipt of this e-mail,
I also consulted with the local Fisheries Extension
Officer on the exact regulations regarding spear fishing
and trade in hawksbill turtle products.
The findings were that the boat pictured was not
from Carriacou, but from a neighboring island. As
such, it is hard to identify who the exact alleged cul
prits are. At the same time, however, the writer seems
to be misinformed about a few details.



r rinnm .mjth



i II.LLUl,.I. ,.rI 'ii...
Turtle Ip of v an
Si-ie of Turtle rom
Nes.l al may Linm
CI sed or Open Seaon).


First of all, the hawksbill turtle (as well as the green
back) is not on the endangered list in Grenada. These
can be harvested for local consumption during the
open season. However, with Grenada being a signatory
-i i -i ,i' ,1 .11 ,I I ,'' ., Ih I,,' I I
turtle meat, shells, or even whole live creatures. The
Leatherback, on the other hand, is endangered.
Therefore, there should be absolutely no harvest,
trade, or consumption of that species.
With regard to lobsters and other creatures, the
Fisheries Regulations provide for the following:
The Minister responsible for Fisheries pursuant to
the Fisheries (Amendment) Regulations 1996 hereby
gives notice that he has declared the periods hereinaf-
ter mentioned as CLOSED SEASON for lobsters and
turtles and a CLOSED FISHERY with regards to sea
urchins (sea eggs).


Prpeleesl uiio
an. #1n
QwftbtVow
hbptten
uair



^^,, ipwyy
4rrrra
hhdr fhSLI1 .e rr
lW I moh y
r In \ -fc
Y lit a~sn15m


LOBSTERS 1st May to 31st August
TURTLES 1st May to 31st August
SEA URCHINS (SEA EGGS) CLOSED FISHERY
Public notice of the same has been posted at several
locations throughout the nation over the years.
Additionally, the regulations also stipulate and notify
the pui i1 f... i.. i.... visitors) of the following:
All f I i the General Public are hereby
WARNED that it is ILLEGAL to remove Turtle Eggs of
any Specie of Turtle from nests at any time (Closed or
Open Season).
Fisheries (Amendment) Regulations SRO 2 of 2001.
It is therefore the responsibility of all persons within
the state, i :-l.i;: visitors, to be aware of existing
rules and I.. to them. While it may be true that
there are local and ---;;nl i-rsons who infringe on
the rules, the market I I II. products are created
primarily by non-locals who may not be aware of the
regulations. These unsuspecting visitors, especially
the yachties, are often targeted and approached by
violators, who are generally the exception, and who
would not take the illegal catch ashore to the islands,
for fear of legal repercussions.
I think the writer suggested it herself, that this is not
a very common practice in Carriacou. In four years,
she has encountered only one infringement. This is
testimony to the fact that the Fisheries Division has
been educating local fisher folks on fishing regulations
over the years. Many have gotten used to the rules and
are mostly acting in accordance. Copies of the notices
placed throughout the stat, .- 1. -;- i ttn-..- .
Thank you very much, rI., I I ......... this to
our attention. We anticipate that you would continue
to assist us in educating your readers on what are
acceptable practices in Carriacou, Petite Martinique
and the rest of the Grenadines. Please continue to
,;--;;-r.^ th- t visit and enjoy Carriacou, the gem

Sincerely,
Allison Caton
Carriacou & Petite Martinique Office
Grenada Board of Tourism
Dear Compass,
I write at the moment that the Curacao Coastguard
have just got off our boat with their size 12 hobnail
boots on, and I am fuming. Curacao has to be the least
cruiser-friendly island we have visited in either Europe
or the Caribbean where we have been cruising for
seven months. We understand that Curacao has a
potential smuggling problem with their nearest neigh
bour, but the system for clearing in and clearing out of
yachts is confusing at best, and it has very much
tainted our visit here.
To explain. When you arrive in, say, Spanish Water,
you trek into Willemstad by bus and visit Customs.

Dolly's Answer: The missing word is PLANKTON


Home of the
S Year 50,000
Mile Guarantee





3DOYLE
WW doylecarlbban womr


With clvren
locations from
Purto Rico to
Panama


Then cross the river and go to Immigration, then, if
someone has told you that you need to do it, and nei
their Customs nor Immigration know what to do either,
you visit the Harbour Office for an anchor permit. Here
you are allowed to buy for US$10 a permit to anchor
in any of the four anchorages in Spanish Water or one
of four more --l-r-*. in Curacao -and you have
to be specific I .. ...i to then move your boat to
any other anchorage, you have to go back to the office
and get another permit. If you don't have a permit, and
you are boarded by the ever-present Coastguard, then
they will either fine you or move you on. So to comply
it means another bus ride and wasted half-day.
Anyway, we had played by the rules, and the time
had come to leave for Aruba. We checked out of
Customs and Immigration, and don't get me wrong
the individual experiences are perfectly pleasant. Then
at the Harbour Office you tell them your route (and
also, laughably, have to draw a sketch of your vessel,
and I'm no artist). We wrote Willemstad -Santa Cruz
Aruba. This was not questioned, and I'm sure I was
very clear in asking if I needed a permit to anchor at
Santa Cruz, and the answer, just as clearly, was, "no".
Well, here we are in a lovely anchorage where we
thought we would spend two nights, and have been
told by the coastguard to be on our way at first light,
because we do need a permit! You can imagine the
annoyance at being moved on when we thought we'd
done everything right. Our only choice is to return the
20 nautical miles upwind to Willemstad, or leave the
island tomorrow -;-rn;; We're off, and won't be sorry
to see the back o '... bureaucracy.
I hope these experiences will help other cruisers get
it right.
Kind regards,
Colin and Liz Price
S/V Pacific Bliss
Dear Compass Readers,
We want to hear from YOU!
Please include your name, boat name or shoreside
address, and a way we can contact you (preferably by
e-mail) if clarification is required.
We do not publish individual consumer complaints or
individual regatta results complaints. (Kudos are okay!)
We do not publish anonymous letters; however, your
name may be withheld from print at your request.
Letters may be edited for length, clarity and fair play.
Send your letters to:
sally@caribbeancompass.com
or
Compass Publishing Ltd.
Readers' Forum
Box 175BQ
Bequia VC0400
St. Vincent & the Grenadines


O ': IALt IN i IIG i I 0III. .

-- Stainless Stee Boat Filtings
--- Epoxy Rieins
-- Polyester Resins


I















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I






YOUNG SUN 46 VENUS 1984 KECH


Pilot, EPIRB, SSB, Water Maker,
Air-Con, Solar Panels, Wind
Generator & more Full specs at













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Yanmar Diesels this is a project
catamaran which still needs
some work. Lying Martinique
89B0DD ono. For more info &
photos www.lavezz40forsale
webs.com or to make offer
Tel: (596) 69607 429 or E-mail
venus46@live.com
BOATS FOR SALE IN TRINIDAD
Tel (868) 739-6449
www.crackajacksailing.com







I n I f;I rj.: iA. A.*.Lt
Fiberglass hull. 671 GMDiesel.
Based in Tyrell Bay, Caarr ou.
Good pce egotiable.
Tel (473) 415-9323


36 riAHO,-:AII A. ILIAC.
SLOOP copper fastenings
good condition Tel (784)
458-4969 E-mail seabreeze-
tours@vincysurf.com








46' PETERSON PERFORMANCE
CRUISER 1988 Center cock
pit, single owner, lovingly
maintained. Sailed through-
out the Caribbean and now
located in Trinidad. Ready
for you to start cruising tomor-
row. USD 189,999 E-mail
SailingOnFree@aol.com


I BOATS FOR SALE


bath & cabin, 2-300hp Volvo,
40 + cruising speed, only 200
hrs, sacrifice asking $69K
OBO, includes trailer, exec.
cond. &maint., seldom used
see pics & specs at www.
SunSeekerVI.com, Tel (941)
730-5036 Make Offers!





p I


iu *-0.DCO I --A I A t

Tel: (758) 721-7007
34' BOWEN MARINE PIROGUE,
2-150 Mercury engines, needs
work, sitting in dry dock in St.
Lucia, survey is $75,000 EC$,
must sell, contact Janet at
(758) 723-6509 or Christine
E-mail christinewommack
@hotmail.com







1E
anchored in Carriacou. Tel:
(473) 443-8730/ 457-5088/
459-3316 __


i-e: C.J I-AD. iO- AC


n A ,, -- 1,,- - 1 1 ,
I i i" i- - ..- 1
lines, complete set of racing
and delivery sails, rigging has
only 2 seasons. Willing to assist
buyer in showing how to the
set up, tune andmaintain the
boat. US$16500 open to all
negotiation. E-mail:
Christopher.marshall
@budgetmarine.com.

54' 40 PASS. DAY CHARTER
CATAMARAN S/V Loafer Tel:
(868) 650-1914 E-mail
jandutch@tstt.net.tt
I I II ,

PURE BEQUIA HONEY availa-
ble from Trinity Point Apiary
Bee Keeper Hodge Taylor, in
280ml Jars. Wholesale and
retail FOB Bequia. E-mail
bequiaboy@yahoo.com
Bequia Sweet Sweet, Sweeti

SAILBOAT PROPS used 3 blade
from 13" to 22" diameter
Selftailing winches. Barlow
Barient, Lewmar E-mail
Yachtsdies@dsl-yachflng.com
Tel (758) 452 8531

SAILS AND CANVAS
EXCEPTIONALLY SPECIAL
DEALS at http://doylecarib-
bean.com/specials.htm

TACKTICK WIRELESS/SOLAR
INrISIiMFUMTTS Fncn intnrir:


-rn -o n (0ncc oem o REMEMBER
.ii,] 0to tell our advertisers you
saw their ad in Compass!
TORTOLA Busy, bay side, BVI
Arts and Craft center is look-
S in g for a live-aboard couple
Of']l ..iLi -; : : "*i. to help run the operation
west systemTwin ruddes, next season. Ideal applicants
Hydro auto pilot. Profurl furl- will be artistic, energetic.
ers, Dyform rigging. Kevlar organized, multi-lingual, with
code 0. Fast cruiser with excellent communication
accommodations, electric and sales skills. For more info
toilet, double bed, stove please send CV to
fridge, computer. Tel (473) dreadeye@surfbvi.com
415-8271 E-mail Richard.
turbulence@spiceisle.com MARINE TECHNICIAN WANTED

Co in Grenada is seeing d
round experienced technician


for marine diesel
rical, electronics,
wind generators,
eration. Ideal
independent te
email CV to
spiceisle.com


CARRIACOU LA
multi-acre tra
views overlook
Grenadines an
www.caribtrac


CYOA YACHT
St Thomas has
time openings.
ad on page 42


EAST COAST
Waterway c<
Kennedy Spaci
amenities, sa
www.caribtrace
LA POMPE, BEC
Large 2 bedroor
or Tbed studio
Big verandah
stunning view,
Internet, cable
minimum, exc
term rates. Tel: (
email: louisjan @



MEDICAL
USS5.000.000 wc


US 50 per wod Include name,
address and numbers in count Line
drowings/photos accompanying
doassifeds are US$10 Pre-paid by the
151h ct the month No replies


ADVERTISERS INDEX


ADVERTISER
A&C Yacht Brokers
ABC Manne
Admiral Yacht Insurance
ARC Dynamic
Art & Design
B & C Fuel Dock
Barefoot Yacht Charters
Barrow Sails & Canvas
Bequia Venture
Blue Water Sailing
Budget Manne
Business Development Co
BVI Yacht Sales
Camper & Nicholsons
Caralbe Greement
Caralbe Greement
Caralbe Yachts
Canbbean Marine Electrical
Canbbean Propellers Ltd
Canbbean Woods
Carnacou Silver Diving


LOCATION PG#
Martinique MP
Curagao 25
UK 37
St Lucia MP
Antigua MP
Petite Martinique 17
St Vincent 15
Tnnldad MP
Bequia MP
USA 28
Sint Maarten 2
Tnnldad 6
Tortola 42
Grenada 12
Martinique 10
Martinique MP
Guadeloupe 40
Tnnldad MP
Tnnldad MP
Bequia MP
Carnacou MP


ADVERTISER
Chateau Mygo Restaurant
CIRExpress
Clippers Ship
Cooper Manne
Conviasa Airline
Curagao Manne
CYOA help want
Dominica Marine Center
Down Island Real Estate
Doyle Offshore Sails
Doyle's Guides


LOCATION
St Lucia
St Maarten
Martinique
USA
Venezuela
Curagao
St Thomas
Dominica
Carnacou
Tortola
USA


Echo Manne Jotun Special Tnnldad
Eduardoho Boats Colombia
Edward William Insurance International
Electropics Tnnidad
Food Fair Grenada
Free Cruising Guides DR/Jamacia
Glttens Engines Tnnldad
Grenada Marine Grenada
Grenadines Sails Bequia
lolaire Enterpnses UK


ADVERTISER
Island Water World
Johnson Hardware
Jones Maritime
Kingfisher Marine Services
Le Phare Bleu
Lulley's Tackle
LumbaDive
Marc One Manne
Mangot Beach Club


LOCATION PG#
Sint Maarten 48
St Lucia 8
St Cromx 37
Bequia MP
Grenada 18
Bequia MP
Carnacou MP
Tnnldad MP
St Lucia 16


Mclntyre Bros Ltd Grenada
Mercury Manne Caribbean Wide
Mid Atlantic Yacht Services Azores
Mygo Pnncess 4 sale St Lucia


Navimca Venezuela
Off Shore Risk Management Tortola
Perkins Engines Tortola
Petit St Vincent PSV
Porthole Restaurant Bequla
Power Boats Tnnldad
Renaissance Manna Aruba
Sea Services Martinique


40
23
MP
MP
20


ADVERTISER
Spice Island Manne
St Thomas Yacht Sales
SVG Air
SVG Tourism
Technick
The Lure
Tikal Arts & Crafts
Trade Winds Cruising
Trans Caraibes Rallies


LOCATION
Grenada
St Thomas
St Vincent
St Vincent
Grenada
Tnnldad
Grenada
Bequia
St Maarten


Turbulence Sails Grenada
Tyrrel Bay Yacht Haulout Carnacou
Vemasca Venezuela
Village Cay Manna Tortola
Virgin Gorda Yacht Harbour Virgin Gorda


Volles Assistance
Wallace & Co
Wallilabou Anchorage
WIND
Xanadu Marine


Martinique
Bequia
St Vincent
Martinique
Venezuela


CW = Caribbean wide
MP = Market Place pages 43 to 45


engines, dec- BEQUIA, KMS MARINE SERVICES
watermckers, marine/land mechanical servic-
AC and reffig- es, electrical/refigeration/weld-
for cruiser or ing/diesel/outboard repair.
ch. Pease Mooings available.
enzamaine@ VHF 68 KMS" Tel (784) 530-
8123/570-7612 E-mail vanessa
kerry_l@hotmail.com

ND, Lots and
cts. Great
ing Southern
d Tyrrel Bay.
e.com

ri E rIorjj AID Li E i-i
CHARTERS in acA :
full and part powerboat rental/tour
Check our company in beautiful St
Thomas, owner ready to
retire and willing to sell busi-
ness for the price of the
boats. Business is 10 yrs. old,
FLORIDA, very profitable, and web
ondo near pages come up on first
e Center, all page of Google. US$75,000
ilboat slips. Tel: (340) 690-6015
e.com www.pocketyachtsvi.com
UUIA RYASAILINGANDPOWERBOAT
n house and/ training available now in
apartment. Antigua by recognied com-
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cool breeze. Crew to Yachtmaster Ocean
TV. 2 weeks available. Pease call (268)
ellent ong- 562 6696 E mail eb@ondeck-
784) 495 1177 oceanracing.com or visit us in
incysurf.com Antigua Yacht Club Marina,
Falmouth Harbour, Antigua.
HOMESTAYS GRENADA
Would you like to spend some
INSURANCE time on shore? We offer rooms
worldwide "A" and apartments in local
homes all over Grenada at
affordable rates. US$30-120
per night. Come and be part
of the family!
Tel: 473 444 5845 473 456 9378,
: Tel 4735334281
www.homestaysgrenada.com


, I , :: :: 11: :: :!
7 1 ..........................


[ -I.I1.11"1. I.I I I I.l.ll.I








iU __/ IIi
teS














shop


islandwaterworld.com


what's new?
STARBRITE SEA SAFE
CLEANERS & DEGREASERS
A great line of environmentally friendly all-
purpose cleaners and degreasers:A Degreaser that
haresses the natural cleaning power of citrus to
remove greasy marks, grime, fish blood, spilled
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IMRAY EASTERN CARIBBEAN
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on a USB Stick.
Priced at $111.00
~ -


what's on sale in store?


ALL DIVE BUDDY BOOTIES
Protect your feet from rocks, sea urchins and
nasty scrapes or cuts while exploring.
These Dive Buddy nature shoes are
ideal for snorkeling or beach combing.
2 mm Neoprene Lycra with
toe cap & heel reinforce-
ment and rubber soles.
Now Just $13.00 A


DYLAN 1500W 12V
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For Boats up to 50 ft Vertical windlass in Stain-
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on a single gypsy; manual Free-Fall system;
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pressure lever Inspection lid; IP67 watertight
motor and anodized aluminium gearbox.
Includes Solenoids. 3 Year Warranty.
Priced at $2,699.95


Store prices good while stocks last and for the month of September only.
Prices In Curacao may be 10% higher.


what's on the web?
10% Discount online
SFree-Freight Deals
Great Giveaways!


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A great deal on our complete range of automatic and traditional non-automatic pumps: From
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I ALL BURKE WET WEATHER GEAR
Burke Marine of Australia offer a great range of
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for coastal and offshore calling, jackets offer many
extra features usually found on high-end Offshore
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Prices range from $72 to $157





Island

Water World 1

/keeps you sailing! -E


St. Maarten, Cole Bay: + 599.544.5310 Bobby's Marina: + 599.543.7119


4tiiil: +P .452.1222 Grenada: + 473.435.2150 Curacao: + 599.9.461.2144

..-----s S___


'~n

L~Y




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