These smooth running and
quiet generators are designed
to operate efficiently in
moderate winds and start
charging at 5-6 knots. Aerogen
uses high efficiency three
phase magnet alternators that
are protected from overload and
stress by thermal cut outs.
Designed for live-aboard
yachtsmen with high power
usage who want smooth
and VERY quiet operation.
ST THOMAS NANNY ST. MAARTENI
ST CROIX ANTIGUA
Finally we bring you a Quality
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Available in three sizes: 90 watt,
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These Polycrystaline panels
built to ISO 9001:2000
standards offer a 25 year limited
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and are well suited for Marine
Volume discounts available for
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If you do a bit of camping or
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you consider a solar shower
2-1/2 Gallon should be enough
for two showers, 5 Gallon serves
This product is PVC Freel
Made in USA; 4 ply construction
& double welded seams.
HIGH POWER LED
The Multi Light is designed to
be used in many ways. The light
can be either surface mounted
or recess mounted, by simply
removing the back housing.
The Multi Light can be used in
'hard knock' environments or
even outside, as they come with
hardened glass and they are
waterproof. Perfect for cockpit
lighting, under boom, or spread-
ers. Equally at home inside
where bright low consumption
lighting is required.
Features 3 one Watt Luxeon
Caribbean Duty Free List Prices. Check your local store for final pricing.
CARIEBBEAN CMHA NDLERI ES
ANTIGUA ARUBA BONAIRE CURAO GRENADA ST. CROIX ST. MAARTEN ST. MARTIN ST. THOMAS TORTOLA TRINIDAD
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Antigua & Barbuda
Atlantic Sails and Canvas
Bazurto Sec La Cuchilla
St. Croix, USVW
Wilsons' Cruzan Canvas
The Sail Loft, St. Lucia
Dominica Marine Center
Barefoot Yacht Charters
Spice Island Boatyard
Trinidad & Tobago
Soca Sails, Ltd.
C M PASS
The Caribbean's Monthly Look at Sea & Shore
AUUS l 2010NMmlBER [ 1 79J
Why Rally Giants
ARC & Caribbean 1500 explain ..10
How NOT to...
Leave the Caribbean, that is... 18
Yay, Scotland Bay!
The 'Other' Trinidad.............. 25
That King Thing
New Reign in Redonda.......... 28
A Long Time
New marine reserve in Carriacou... 15
Cruisers become fishers........ 34
Business Briefs.................... 8
Caribbean Eco-News........... 12
Regatta News..................... 16
Meridian Passage................. 18
All Ashore........................... 20
Book Review........................ 29
Fun Pages........................30, 31
Cruising Kids' Corner............32
Tel (784) 457 3409, Fax (784) 457 3410
Editor.................. ................ Sally Erdle
Assistant Editor...................Elaine Ollivierre
Advertising & Distribution........Tom Hopman
Art, Design & Production......Wilfred Dederer
Accounting................................ Debra Davis
Compass Agents by Island:
A I .. .
. . ... ..i, l ...., ..
Dolly's Deep Secrets............ 32
The Caribbean Sky............... 33
Cooking with Cruisers.......... 36
Readers' Forum..................... 37
What's on My Mind...............41
Monthly Calendar .............. 42
Caribbean Market Place.....43
Classified Ads..................... 46
Advertisers' Index................ 46
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Cover photo: Simon Walsh captured this image of the seaside village of Soufriere, Dominica
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Gulf of Ma c ue We re Ire Car.bben 5 .T.ornr.ly I look a Iea and r.ore
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Click Google Map link below to find the Caribbean Compass near you!
http://aps .google com/maps/ms?t=h&hl=en&ie=UTF8&msa--&msid=112776612439699037380.000470658db371bf3282d&11=14.54105 65.830078&spn=10 196461,14.0625&z=6&sourcenmbed
New Buoyed Channel in Great Bay, St. Maarten
St. Maarten Ports Authority has put in a buoyed channel for marine traffic in Great
Bay. It aoes to and from the Captain Hodae wharf and to the marinas in the north-
go to Bobby's Marina for services can call their offices or contact them on VHF
Channel 69 for further information. Anchoring is not allowed in the channel.
Mariners must use this channel for traffic to and from these locations as well as
local traffic to and from the Cruise Tender Pier in Pointe Blanche unless there are
The International Collision Prevention Regulations 1972 are applicable in this chan-
nel as well as on all inland waters of St. Maarten.
Efforts are being made to void this area of any anchored vessels. If you should find
yourself in this area please make all efforts to remove your vessel and re-anchor so
that in any wind direction your vessel does not cross the channel.
For more information contact Eddy_Johnson@portofstmaarten.com or visit www.
USVI and Puerto Rico Now Accept Electronic Check-Ins
As reported July 12th in The Triton (http://thetriton.com): US Customs and Border
Protection has begun accepting electronic submissions for clearing in for partici-
pants in the Local Boater Option (LBO). The web-based, automated check-in adds
to the phone and in-person options of reporting private vessel arrivals from a for-
The LBO is a pre-clearance system in limited US Coast Guard sectors (including
Tampa, Miami, Puerto Rico and the US Virgin Islands) that enables mariners to be
interviewed and cleared in advance. Only US citizens and lawful permanent resi-
dents are eligible. Once they are approved, they receive a number and then can
phone in their arrival instead of having to report in person. Under the new Small
Vessel Reporting System, they can now also report in on-line.
It is intended for boaters to be able to file and update their float plan on-line.
Once a float plan is entered and activated, SVRS will issue a float plan number.
Upon arrival in US waters, LBO members can check-in using the float plan number
on the CBP website, www.cbp.gov, and click on the "travel" and then "small vessel
reporting system" areas.
Singlehander Attacked in St. Martin
On June 28th, 63-year-old solo circumnavigator Mike Harker was attacked and
beaten aboard his Hunter 49, Wanderlust 3, while anchored at St. Martin. Wanderlust
was in Simpson Bay Lagoon below Mt. Fortune ("Witch's Tit"),...
-Continued on next page
-- .- '
east side of the bay. This new channel is meant to guide mariners safely to these
destinations and maintain clear anchorage areas. The channel is marked in accor-
dance with the IALA Maritime Buoyage System Region B. This means when entering
from the sea, vessels must keep the red channel marker on their starboard side. The
channel and anchorage area is a No Wake Zone. Operators must maintain a safe
speed at all times. Adjust your speed to the prevailing circumstances and conditions
and so that you can take proper and effective action to avoid a collision and/or be
stopped within an appropriate distance. Remember, when reducing your speed
you may not always reduce your wake. Look back and check your stern wave and
adjust your speed until you have a minimal wake.
The sea side entrance to the channel buoys has red and green flashing lights and
is located at 1801 .085 North and 06302 .086 West. The maximum draft for vessels
using the channel is approximately seven feet. Vessels with deeper draft wishing to
:i -, -, : i I I: : : I : l- :i-.:.i-.-1 along the French/Dutch border with no other
boats to the south, west or north.
Mike reported that two men swam out to his boat at about 4:00AM and demanded
money. When he said all he had was the cash in his wallet, they beat him, tied him up
and ransacked the boat. He was able to call a Mayday on VHF 16 and says, "The
police and the emergency medical boat were all at my side within 15 minutes". Live-
aboards from two yachts anchored to the northeast of Wanderlust also responded.
Video security cameras at a nearby dinghy dock have gotten photos of the
attackers and the police obtained DNA samples.
Mike has been released from the hospital and intends to sail south for the hurri-
Link to Gold in Skipper's Death in Panama Disputed
On June 29th, 61-year-old Bo Kjaer-Olsen was shot in the leg and bled to death
aboard his 70-foot, 1949 Sparkman and Stevens schooner, Antares, while at anchor
near Bajo Pipon in the Republic of Panama. Bajo Pipon is a sparsely populated
stretch of river roughly eight miles south of the town of Pedregal. Bo's son Zach and
daughter-in-law Sujey were also injured in the attack.
According to Don Winner of www.panama-guide.com, Bo was a famous salvage
diver and treasure hunter who probably had about 200,000 dollars worth of gold on
his boat a presumed reason for the attack by five gunmen. Winner reports that
Bo had recently completed a salvage operation in Honduras of a sunken treasure
ship and the government of that country had paid him with the 17th century
Spanish gold. He adds: "Panama is a very safe country, relatively speaking. This was
apparently not just a random attack against a boater.... There was a hefty motive
- money and gold."
However, Panama resident and family friend Don Ray writes at www.chiriquichat-
ter.net, "From the family talking with Bo's boating friends, they learned that no boat-
er would be foolish enough to store extreme valuables on board a ship, and Bo's
friends said the thought was absurd. Let me make this very clear! There is no gold
and there was no gold."
First Inductees at Trinidad & Tobago's Sailing Hall of Fame
Pierre La Borde reports: On Saturday July 3rd, the Trinidad & Tobago Sailing
Association (TTSA) inaugurated its very own Sailing Hall of Fame during its annual
prizegiving dinner. The first four inductees are as follows:
Harold La Borde: the first national of T&T to sail around the world, which he did
with his family in 1973 in his home-built yacht Humming Bird II, having sailed across
the Atlantic in the 26-foot Humming Bird in 1960. He also made a second circum-
navigation with his family, via Cape Horn, in Humming Bird IIi in 1986. Two more
transatlantic crossings took place, in 1992 and in 2000. Harold and his wife Kwailan
hold the nation's highest award the Trinity Cross.
Rawle Barrow: a racing and cruising yachtsman who in the 1960s competed for
T&T in several PanAm games, CAC games and the Olympics in the Flying Dutchman
dinghy. He has also competed in regional regattas for many years in his yachts Petit
Careme and Sweet Luv. He has long been instrumental in the development of TTSA,
and of sailing in local and regional waters.
Sidney Knox: a World War II pilot, businessman, and longtime sailor who was one of
the founders of both the San Fernando (Trinidad) Yacht Club and TTSA. For many
years he was the President of TTSA, guiding its evolution to where the club is today.
He also helped to develop the Tobago Regatta and competed for many years in
regional regattas in his yachts Mayumi and After Hours, among others.
Dougie Myers: a well-known racing yachtsman on the local and regional scene,
Dougie passed away in 2004. He competed in many Tobago, Grenada, Barbados,
Carriacou, and Antigua regattas on his yachts Legacy, Hooligan, Huey, Huey Too
and Domani. It is a testimony to his dedication to racing that several marker buoys
in these regattas are named in his honour.
Inaugural T&T Sailing Hall of Fame inductees (left to right): Rawle Barrow,
Douggie Myers's brother Harry, Harold La Borde and Sidney Knox
Two Waterfalls Currently Off Limits in St. Vincent
If anchored along or otherwise visiting the Leeward coast of St. Vincent, please
note that that the popular tourism sites of Trinity Falls and the Falls of Baleine are cur-
rently closed due to the danger of flash floods and landslides in the rainy season.
If you want to visit a beautiful waterfall in St. Vincent, Dark View Falls is open as of
For more information contact tourism@vincysurf com.
Cruisers' Breakfast Highlights T&T Directory Launch
Ruth Lund reports: On July 14th some 65 cruisers and 40 yacht-related contractors,
company representatives and interested officials met over a delicious "Trini" break-
fast at Sails Restaurant, Chaguaramas, Trinidad. This event was sponsored by the
Chaguaramas Business Community (CBC), an informal group of business people
who, since April of this year, have been meeting regularly to find ways to improve
service quality, foster better customer relations and promote Trinidad's leisure
The purpose of this breakfast was to launch the new Boaters' Directory of Trinidad
& Tobago and provide a forum for information sharing between yacht service pro-
viders and visiting cruisers. Donald Stollmeyer, Chairman of the Yacht Services
Association of Trinidad & Tobago (YSATT), spoke about the Boaters' Directory, now in
its 15th edition, and the integral role publisher/editor Jack Dausend has played, ...
Continued on next page
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:i ,j ,-' ,-' :i :.. : :,,',.. i',.t to improve the relationship between the
cruising foreign boat-
ers and the citizens of
Trinidad & Tobago
Cruisers then filled
.. .... out a small question-
I: naire regarding their
cL I experience in
which the buffet
. "_Trinidad for Cruising
Sailors", has generat-
Jack Dausend addressing the breakfast meeting ed much discussion,
then spoke about
what the CBC was trying to achieve; Jesse James reported on the situation regard-
ing bringing pets into T&T: and Dr. Arthur Potts of the T&T Institute of Marine Affairs
made a presentation regarding the economic impact study on the boating industry
currently being done.
Mark De Freitas, Manager of the Trinidad & Tobago Sailing Association, facilitated
the discussion session, during which concerns about safety and security in the yards
and on the water, Customs and Immigration issues and other problems were raised.
The new Officer in Charge at Customs, Mr. Ramkissoon Gina Carvalho of YSATT and
various CBC members gave responses where appropriate.
Cruisers expressed appreciation for the event. The information gathered will serve
to guide marine service providers. The intention is to organize similar sessions in
future, hopefully with the relevant officials/representatives present. The CBC interest
group works in close liaison with YSATT (many are both CBC and YSATT members)
and recognizes that while some things are best channeled through an official body,
there is much that individual contractors and companies can do to improve and
revitalize the yacht service industry.
New T&T Boaters' Directory Now Available
Cathryn Winn reports: For 15 years, the Trinidad 1
& Tobago Boaters' Directory has been providing L 3
yachtsmen with an annual guide so helpful it has
been called "the cruiser's Bible". Jack Dausendwi
editor and publisher for all of these years, along
with his co-directors Ryan Nunes and Phillip Lewis, bl DJ I
are proud to announce the arrival of the 2010-
As usual, the full-colour front section is designed
to help you get to know Trinidad better. You'll
find maps of Chaguaramas; Customs and
Immigration rules; pet owners' guidelines; and
much more of interest.
The yellow pages are set up in business cate-
gories, and there is a separate section of blue
pages of brand names, plus a listing at the back --
of all the active marine businesses.
With this one compact book in hand, you can
find a doctor or a dentist; navigate the telephone
and postal services; talk to your Embassy; and find
that elusive part for your outboard engine.
The Boaters Directory as always is free of
charge and found at all the marinas and chandleries in Chaguaramas. You can
also get the entire Boaters' Directory on-line at www.boatersenterprise.com.
New Sloop Launched in Carriacou
On July 1 1th a 32-foot traditional Carriacou sloop designed and built by
Bernard Compton and commissioned by Dave Goldhill was launched in
Dave tells Compass: "Since Genesis was launched in 2005 (see "Traditional Launch
n of Carriacou Sloop Genesis"
Sby Alexis Andrews, Compass
April 2005), the Carriacou
workboat has taken on signif-
icantly different economic
proportions. The boats were
getting bigger and bigger
and dearer and dearer,
which has resulted in a pow-
erful A Class, well represent-
ed in Antigua, but leaving a
gaping hole in the size that a
layman could afford: i.e. the
B Class, 32 feet and under.
"With the recent resur-
gence of boat building in
both Windward and Petite
Martinique I wanted to build a vessel that was a traditional design but built to with-
stand time not the usual ten-year plan, but, with modern epoxies and the avail-
ability of bronze fastenings and power tools, something that would endure the ages.
"This will not be a work boat as such, so the emphasis is more on simplicity rather
than the dependence on six strong men always available to hoist and tweak. The
rig will be as traditional as possible but the word hybrid seems to creep into our
terminology these days...."
The name of the new boat is New Moon.
The new, comprehensive Jamaica Cruising Guide is available at www.jamaica-
cruisingguide.com. It is a free download. The author of the guide is Frank Virgintino,
who recently cruised Jamaica extensively. Frank is also the author of the on-line
guide to the Dominican Republic.
There is an interesting discussion on the topic "Is the Caribbean Safe to Cruise?"
at the Women and Cruising Blog: www.womenandcruising.com. Visit the new sec-
tion on cruising families while you're there.
Also check out The Interview with a Cruiser Project at
Visit www.seaworthy.com for Bahamas and Caribbean Cruising Advisories.
For a master's course on hurricanes go to www.street-iolaire.com where you will
find the following articles: "Securing for a Hurricane", "Tracking Hurricanes",
"Hurricane Holes", "Hurricanes Exploding Some Myths", "Leaving a Boat
Unattended in Hurricane Season", "Reflections on Hugo" and "Reflections on Ivan".
Recently a survey was sent to participants in Antigua Sailing Week. A number of
replies have been received but insufficient to reach firm conclusions. You may not
have taken part in recent years or you may never have taken part but, as a result of
business or other connections, you may have an intimate knowledge of Sailing
Week and your opinions will be as valuable as those who have taken part.
Complete the survey www.surveymonkey.com/s/P9KMFST
Loose Cannon Found After a Month Adrift
As we reported last month, a J/24 called Loose Cannon went missing from
Carlisle Bay, Barbados on May 23rd. The boat was found adrift north of Curacao
by the sailing yacht Fayole exactly one month later, on June 23rd. The J/24 was
towed to the Coast Guard base in Curacao, where it was inspected. Basic gear
including folded sails, lines, diving masks, flares, fire extinguishers and life vests were
aboard. The authorities reported that they found no evidence of a man-overboard
situation or vandalism, and concluded that the boat had probably gone adrift
accidentally. The St. Lucia-based boat had been in Barbados to race in the Mount
New St. Maarten Yacht Rates Not Set Yet
We reported in the May issue of Compass that the body in St. Maarten responsible
for collecting yacht fees, the Simpson Bay Lagoon Authority, has been reorganized
and was making proposals to the government for a new fee structure. While a
review and studies have been done, these have not yet led to a decision on the
For current rates visit www.sxmlagoonauthority.com.
Grenada's Marine Industry Supports National Sailing Academy
The Grenada National Sailing Academy, based at the Grenada Yacht Club,
received generous support from the local marine industry for its Summer Camp run-
ning from July 26th through August 6th. The camp trains complete beginners, aged
between eight and 14, the basics of sailing. The marine industry is experiencing
rapid growth in Grenada and many youngsters welcome the opportunity to learn
about sailing and its possible career opportunities.
Budget Marine has been supporting the youth sailing programmes in Grenada for
many years and has once again demonstrated that support by contributing, along
with Spice Island Marine, three racing Optimists to the GNSA. Significant help in
repairing some of the boats has come from Grenada Marine, and GNSA has also
secured generous discounts on sail repairs by Turbulence Sails. Port Louis Marina
offered use of their extensive premises and the Camper & Nicholson waterfront and
pontoons for the Treasure Hunt and other sail-training games. Also there have been
donations from James and Jacqui Pascall at Horizon Yacht Charters, Anita Sutton of
Island Dreams, Bob Goodchild of Flyingfish Ventures and Bryden & Minors.
After the Summer Camp, the GNSA will be looking to expand its current race-
training programme with a new group of beginners.
Act Fast for Grenada Carnival!
Carnival Monday in Grenada is August 9th. If you're in Grenada and reading this
in the first week of August, there's still time to get involved in Grenada Carnival by
joining Ricardo Keens-Douglas's visitor-friendly carnival band VAT: "Very Attractive
Tourist". No feathers, sequins or beads required -just come dressed as a Very
Attractive Tourist. Most of you might have the tourist outfits in your locker already:
beach dresses, wraps, bikinis, Hawaiian shirts, surf shorts, beach bags, sunglasses,
straw hats and guess what? There's a Sailor Tourist section, too!
For more information call 440-2385/459-5332, e-mail email@example.com or visit the
mas camp located on Green Street, St George's.
Amendments to Selected Shortwave Weather Broadcasts
We are glad to have been informed of corrections to the Selected Shortwave
Weather Broadcast schedule that appeared in the June issue of Compass:
0630 AST The Trinidad Emergency Net (Eric) on 3855 has been off the air since
sometime in March.
0630 AST the Caribbean Emergency and Weather Net on 3815 was removed
from the list but is still on the air.
0730 AST KP2G (George) is no longer broadcasting weather on 7086 at this time,
although he continues at 1630 for the cocktail and weather net.
Compass Now Available
W in Tobago
SCaribbean Compass is now avail-
Rae Mable in Tobago. Editions will be
stocked exclusively at Store Bay
Marine Services (SBMS) shop at
;.* Cable Beach. Based in the south-
west of Tobago, SBMS offers inter-
net (Wi-Fi at the anchorage at Store
Bay) and laundry facilities to visiting
S- yachts and also has a team of
... marine engineers to enable quick
and quality repairs island-wide. The
company has distribution contracts
with major marine suppliers in the
US, and in Trinidad and other
.-..... CARICOM countries, which allows
for efficient ordering and delivery of
.. marine parts. Tobago is located
outside the hurricane belt an
unspoiled cruising ground with
numerous idyllic, safe and secure
anchorages for those sailing
between Grenada and Trinidad.
To pick up your latest edition of
Caribbean Compass go to Store Bay Marine Services, Unit B, Bago s Beach Bar,
Pigeon Point Road, Crown Point. For more information on Store Bay Marine Services
In this issue of Caribbean Compass we welcome new advertisers the Round DR
Race, on page 17; Mercury Marine, on page 24; and Chateau Mygo Restaurant of
St. Lucia and Lumba Dive of Carriacou, both in the Market Place section, pages 43
through 45. Good to have you with us!
Your bottom is our concern
* Yacht storage maintenance and repair r
* Teakworks, stainless and aluminum fabrication cur
" AWL grip application and many other services
phone.+ (5999) 4658936 email. info~curcaoarnarine.com
On CuraSao there was a need
for an inexpensive Chandlery
without compromising quality and service.
That is how ABC MARINE was born.
ALL YOU NEED FOR BOATING & FISHING
Caracasbaaiweg 158 Curagao Neth. Antilles
Ph (+5999) 461 4476 Fax (+5999) 461 4925
Open Monday Friday 08.30 17.30
Saturday 09.00 13.00
Yachting Could Lead Bahamas' Economy
According to a June 22nd report in IBI Magazine, the Bahamas' Minister for the
Environment Earl Deveaux said that yachting could eventually become the leading
contributor to the Bahamian economy. Deveaux told the local press, "If you look at
the marine environment of the Bahamas and what Bahamians can do and what
the world demands, then you will see we have the most beautiful cruising destina-
tion in the world."
Deveaux told the Bahamas Weekly newspaper that the recent passage of a yacht
code should help grow the Bahamas Maritime Authority. "Right now, yachts repre-
sent less than one percent of the register of the Bahamas Maritime Authority," he
said. "We seek to grow the BMA in every respect, but probably the most significant
area where we can grow it in the short run is the yacht registry." He envisions ten
percent growth by the end of this year.
Deveaux also wants to target boaters in Florida as potential visitors and to prepare
Bahamians for job opportunities at sea. "Captains, engineers, stewards, deckhands
and the onshore opportunities for provisioning the boat with fuel and water, clean-
ing them, and guiding them through some of our waters represents a huge opportu-
nity to grow the Bahamian economy.
Deveaux noted that a yacht he visited recently was registered in the Caymans,
while the crewmembers were from Australia, England and Ireland. "Any one of
those jobs by a Bahamian would represent a huge leap, and if you multiply one by
78,000, you get the idea of the potential I speak about," he said. "The registry is
good, but the bigger opportunity is getting Bahamians on yachts."
Do You Have the Right Marine Insurance?
Offshore Risk Management reports: Storm season is here. Do you have the right
marine insurance? The cost of insurance for boats, marinas and anything else
marine-related has increased so much over the past few years many people can-
not afford to insure properly. Or they have cut back on coverage to get the premi-
ums to an affordable level, often underinsuring.
In addition, insurers have pulled out of the market, tightened their rules or imposed
conditions to protect underwriters rather than you, their customer.
You could be impacted by reduced coverage or no coverage for storm damage;
punitive depreciation penalties for boats over five years of age; inexperienced per-
sonnel managing your claim; or no service and no coverage.
Offshore Risk Management offers customized insurance coverage: no need to pay
for things you don't want or need. Premiums can be tailored to fit your budget. For
a business operator in the slow season, this can be a lifesaver. We have experi-
enced adjusters on staff to assist from claim to settlement, and on-line filing and
instructions anytime to get your information to us and help to you quickly.
Expertise since 1972. We know what we are talking about. Our staff includes boat-
ers, long-distance cruisers and sailors, captains and other marine insurance experts.
Lower insurance costs. Most clients experience a 15 percent or more savings in
their insurance costs. And better service, no charge.
For decades we have insured thousands of boats and marine professionals worldwide.
For more information see ad on page 19.
Le Phare Bleu Marina Invests in Its Staff
Lynn Fletcher reports: While others are looking to reduce their staff costs during the
low season, Le Phare Bleu is investing in its team of 40 employees.
Marina & Boutique Hotel,
located at Petit Calivigny
Bay, Grenada offers bene-
fits including the Employee
of the Month Award, in-
house Training and
Development Courses, a
Staff Appreciation Party at
Hog Island, and the
Employee of the Year
Awards Ceremony on
Board te lthe lighthouse ship
Vastra Banken Restaurant.
The 2010 Employee of the
Year Award was won by
Le Phare Bleu's owners, Jana Caniga (left) and Dieter Head Gardener Enoch
Burkhalter, jlankng Employee of the Year Enoch Fraser Isaac Fraser who has
worked at Le Phare Bleu since August 2008. Enoch wins a two-week trip to the mari-
na owners homeland, Switzerland. After the ceremony all the staff and manage-
ment got into party mode and danced into the night.
During his trip, Enoch will not only visit tourist attractions, but also will gain knowl-
edge of how another gardening/landscape company operates and bring back
useful ideas to develop some new projects at Le Phare Bleu. These projects include
creating compost beds using the vegetable waste from the marina's two restau-
rants. The compost will fertilize the marina's well-maintained gardens.
As part of the staff training and development program, special vouchers were
given to long-serving members of staff to enjoy a night's stay at the hotel, including
breakfast and lunch at the Poolbar Restaurant plus dinner on board the lighthouse
ship Vastra Banken Restaurant. This will enable staff to sample the Le Phare Bleu
guest experience and help them to understand the importance of customer care.
For more information visit www lepharebleu com.
ISO Standards to Improve Quality of Marine Fuels
New editions of two ISO standards on marine fuels have been developed to meet
higher international requirements for air quality, ship safety, engine performance
and crew health.
The development of "ISO 8217:2010, Petroleum products Fuels (class F) -
Specifications of marine fuels", the fourth edition of this standard, was driven by a
request from the International Maritime Organization to have it ready by the July 1st
implementation date of the revised Annex VI of the International Convention for the
Prevention of Pollution from Ships (MARPOL).
ISO's work in this area has led to improved quality of marine fuels and greater confi-
dence and transparency between buyers and suppliers in the global market for
marine fuels which is, in turn, a significant factor in maritime transport and global sup-
ply chains. In the past, local environmental legislation and other local conditions have
varied considerably, leading to a large number of categories of fuels being available.
Continued on next page
f , ge
ThI ..- +:1i..:. :1 : 7 and ISO 8216 will help to increase the international
harmonization of marine fuel categories and raise the bar for quality. They tighten
exsting limits and add new parameters to meet with the evolution of technology in
the sector and increased stakeholder expectations.
For more information visit www.iso org.
Errol Flynn, Jamaica, Installs New Dinghy Dock
The pleas of those who anchor out while visiting Jamaica's Port Antonio will soon
be answered with the installation of a 40- by eight-foot aluminum dinghy dock and
20-foot aluminum access ramp provided by Errol Flynn Marina. The new floating
dock will be positioned on the waterfront near the marina administration building.
With the ramp access, visitors will be able to take dock carts directly down the ramp
to load provisions directly into their tenders.
Prior to the new dinghy dock, visitors had to bring their dinghies to the main dock
and climb up some four feet to the top of the dock. The new dock will be low profile
to facilitate loading and unloading and have ample cleats so visitors can lock their
dinghies to the dock if desired.
It is expected the dock installation will be completed by November.
For more information visit www.errolflynnmarina.com.
Roll and Tip the Forgotten Painting Method
Philippe Richard of Aikane Trinidad Ltd. shares his experience regarding this time-
tested method currently used by his specialist catamaran company to achieve
results that can compete with any modern spray job:
Fifteen to 20 years ago, when I was doing the job myself, I had the opportunity to
paint boats or parts of boats. At the time, not being equipped for spray, I used the
simplest and easiest method: rolling the paint. I later saw these paint jobs ageing
well and I have found it very strange how unknown this paint application is, which,
parable with a spray job.
I ve since left the team and now
as coach I have for a long time
Encouraged our boatyard staff to
change their method of paint
application from the spray to the
roller and brush, but obtaining this
change took time.
Today the spraying of "yacht-
quality paint" has taken over and
Ua we have completely forgotten the
tried and tested method of
Sf brushed paints and varnishes. But
despite the apparent abandon-
ment by users, all major manufac-
turers have in their product list a
paint to be rolled or brushed on.
SThis method needs to be looked at
as a cost-effective alternative.
Recently I decided to enforce
the rule in our yard: no more spray
guns. In the beginning it took a lit-
tle extra effort on everyone s part
to credit the quality of the prom-
ised result, but rapidly, one after
the other, they were convinced
beyond my expectation by the efficiency of the roll-and-tip method during the
painting of a 45-foot catamaran.
Later reviewing the figures using this application we noted the following benefits:
t We didn't have to use the costly protection required by the spray for the boat
itself and for its immediate surrounding.
* We didn't need any compressed air and didn't use power to produce it.
* We didn t need any of the costly equipment the spray requires.
* The men s protection was much lighter and more comfortable.
* We used less than 20 percent of the paint needed for spraying the same job.
SUltimately, something we could only perceive: the negative environmental
impact must have been drastically reduced.
I am glad I was able to convince the people working with me of the efficiency of
the roll-and-tip method. I think professionals should sometimes look further than the
tip of their spray gun and try some more economical ways to actualize a job. In
reducing the cost per job our skills can become accessible to those with smaller
budgets and we will see an increase in our business volume.
I have seen many fiberglass boats ten years old and over needing care, but the
gel coat repair is not so easy due to discoloration and the spray paint is just too
costly for some budgets.
I encourage everyone to try the roll-and-tip method. Simply get the proper paint
and the slow solvent from your supplier, ask for the data sheet and respect the
application requirements to the letter; it works.
Follow the Yellowbrick Road
OC Technology, part of OC Group the global sports-marketing company specializ-
ing in professional sailing, has signed a new strategic partnership with Yellowbrick
Tracking. This establishes Yellowbrick as the leading company in the offshore yacht-
tracking market with the largest fleet of Iridium-based tracking units available.
The new partnership will see all operational delivery of tracking services carried out
by Yellowbrick, including the provision of the hardware and the on-line manage-
ment system, while OC Technology will continue to market their integrated commu-
nication systems that have been developed over the last decade.
The standard OCTracker unit will be renamed YellowbrickMAX and Yellowbrick will
now manage all the tracking operations of the combined business. The Yellowbrick
units are self-contained, battery-powered, lightweight tracking devices capable of
reporting a boat s position, speed and course at pre-determined intervals, and are
programmable remotely. In addition, Yellowbrick will also manage the OCTracker+
units, to be renamed YellowbrickMAX+, which allow for a hard-wired installation and
extended data transfer capabilities, such as true wind speed and other data.
Since 2006, Yellowbrick have provided tracking and information display solutions
for sailing events including the Atlantic Rally for Cruisers.
For more information visit www.yellowbrick-tracking. com.
RBVIYC Offers Summer Discounts
The Royal British Virgin Islands Yacht Club has negotiated discounted rates for
yacht charter and adult learn-to-sail training this summer! Yachts are available to
charter for long weekends and training is available on either yachts or
For more information visit www.rbviyc org.
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ISLAND WATER WORLD **+ +
BEQUIA VENTURE In the GRENADINES
bequlavpenure@vncysurf comn (784) 458 3319lf
event. The ARC is the originator of the many *
cruising rallies now taking place around the globe.
Since its inception by yachting journalist Jimmy Cornell, more than 4,000 yachts and
23,000 crew have participated in the 2,700-nautical-mile course from Las Palmas de
Gran Canaria to the Caribbean. The first four ARC rallies finished in Barbados, and
in 1990 the Rally relocated to the new marina at Rodney Bay, St. Lucia.
Since January 2006, WCC has been an independent ,--t n-.. -i-nt -~ -
running a portfolio of 1-. -: r-.11: f- ed on the family' .. i 1 ... i i ....
pioneered by the ARC. *. * .. include World ARC Round the World Rally,
ARC Europe and Rally Portugal. WCC also runs a series of seminars in association
with ... Iu i ,,.. .. ... and runs www.noonsite.com, a one-stop website pro
viding ...I ....1 I i. .... on all maritime nations of the world.
About the Cruising Rally Association
The Cruising Rally Association, founded in 1990 by Steve Black, -n.;. :- a year
round calendar of offshore cruising rallies including the Caribbea. I -'* and the
Atlantic Cup, a return rally from the Caribbean to the US. CRA also organizes regu
lar ocean sailing seminars. More than 750 cruisers and future cruisers attend CRA
events each year. To date, more than 1,200 boats have sailed the Caribbean 1500
and Atlantic Cup Rallies and more than 2,250 crewmembers have prepared for ocean
sailing by attending CRA's ocean sailing seminars.
From January 2011, the CRA rallies will be run by World Cruising Club.
Steve Black tells Compass, "I am thrilled to have our events under the same
umbrella as the Atlantic Rally for Cruisers and the World ARC. Joining with WCC is
a real endorsement of our events. I am sure that we will eventually have more
European participants in our events, and more Americans and Canadians will enter
the ARC and World ARC. As part of a r.-.l 1.;-; -. -.i-.ti- --- ensure the
continuity of events like our Caribbean * i ..' I .. I 'I1. Ihopeyou
will join with ... ... 1 ..... ,, v -- .nn-..n:. f our events."
Caribbean. .. I I I I .- -i. ..- I ... Caribbean sailors -including
both past rally participants and independent passage-makers -about this major
merger. We put them to WCC's Communications Director, Jeremy Wyatt:
Interview with Jeremy Wyatt
CC: Both individual rally organizers
have a good track record. What factors
went into the decision to merge?
JW: In a nutshell, Steve wants to
ensure the long term continuation of
the events he started and to spend
more time sailing! We've worked with
CRA for a number of years, co promote
ing seminars and other activities, so
World Cruising Club was a natural
choice to take on the CRA events.
There is an obvious benefit to WCC in
having a significant presence in North
America: it will help us to serve our
participants more effectively, and we
hope to welcome more American and
Canadian sailors into our other events,
particularly World ARC, our round
the-world rally, which will set sail from
Saint Lucia in January 2012.
CC: How will the merger affect
WCC and CRA? What form will "the
umbrella" take? Will there be a new
name for the combined organization?
A single website?
JW: from our perspective we will
take a gradualist approach: small but
Every year for the past decade, more than 200
yachts embarking from Europe have arrived in the
Caribbean at the start of the ...... -eason as part of
the Atlantic Rally for Cruiser- i i i a transatlantic
sailing event that began in 1986.
And every year since 1990 a fleet of some 60 yachts
embarking from the East Coast of the US has arrived
at around the same time as part of the Caribbean 1500
It was announced on June 30th that the organizers
of these two rallies, the UK-based World Cruising Club
(WCC) and the US-based Cruising Rally Association
(CRA), would merge.
About World Cruising Club
...I. event organizers WCC are best known for the
I. world's largest annual trans-ocean .....
Above: The Caribbean 1500 fleet's in at
its Caribbean homeport, Nanny Cay
Left: Jeremy Wyatt of World Cruising Club
Right: The Cruising Rally Association's
Steve Black says, We expect an all time
record turnoutfor ourfall rallies, which I
attribute to improvements in the economy
and several years of pentup demand from
people who postponed their dream trip'
CC: How will the merger affect rally
departure and destination ports? Does
the combined organization want to pro
mote certain destinations, or the activity
of passage-making itself, or both?
JW: We already have a long-term
commitment to our port sponsors in
Saint Lucia and Tortola so there will not
be any changes there. There is certainly
potential to combine the Atlantic Cup
and ARC Europe, which both start from
Nanny Cay, Tortola, to create a larger
event for the benefit of participants and
sponsors alike, but nothing has been
announced yet, and would be unlikely
to take effect until 2012.
Continued on next page
BAREBOAT CHARTERS FULLY CREWED CHARTERS ASA SAILING SCHOOL
Doyle Sail Loft & Canvas Shop Raymarine Electronics Refrigeration Work
Mechanical & Electrical Repairs Fibreglass Repairs Laundry
Vehicle Rentals Showers Air Travel
Ice & Water Diesel & Propane Moorings
Island Tours Surftech Surf Shop Hotel Reservations
Quiksilver Surf Wear Restaurant & Bar Boutique
On-site Accommodation Wi-Fi / Internet Cafe Book Exchange
PO Box 39, Blue Lagoon, St Vincent, West Indies
Tel. 1-784-456-9526 / 9334 / 9144 Fax. 1-784-456-9238
barebum@vincysurf. cor www. barefootyachts. cor
constant improvements that benefit our event partici-
S pants. It is important that we appreciate and under
Si s stand the needs of the loyal following that CRA has
built over the years and we don't want to make any
R A L L Y hasty -h-n-e However, it is likely that we will use the
name I I rising Club America for our profile in
North America. CRA events will continue to be man-
aged from the US and there will definitely be an
American accent running the rallies.
E R CC: How will the merger affect rally sponsors?
E R S JW: We take a holistic view of our sponsors, working
hard to offer them exposure across all our events and
building a long-term relationship with them. Unlike
R G E .many sailing-related sponsorships, our title sponsors
and Corporate Members have been involved with
World Cruising Club for many years -for example,
Marina de Lagos has been an event sponsor in
Portugal for over 15 years. World Cruising Club
already works with some CRA sponsors and so the combined offering will benefit all
our sponsors with whom we aim to maintain long-term working relationships. The
merged group will have an even wider impact, which will enhance the offering to our
continued from previous page
CC: How will the merger affect rally participants? On June 30th you announced,
"Our combined events will provide more opportunities for cruising sailors wishing to
sail offshore in company, while strengthening safety standards and procedures and
facilitating the sharing of knowledge and experience amongst cruisers." Please give
and the ARC fleet's in at Rodney Bay Marina, St. Lucia
JW: A key area in which World Cruising Club is recognized as a trend leader is in
encouraging safety and best practice amongst cruising sailors. We invest much time
and effort promoting appropriate safety standards, ensuring that crews have the
right equipment and, importantly, that they know how to use it. We will also be look
ing to share the knowledge generated from many thousands of ocean sailing miles
and collected in our surveys, which we pass on at seminars, via our in-house maga
zine and via online events and noonsite.com.
CC: You've noted that that the merger will produce "the largest global organization
dedicated to the sport of passage-making". How is passage-making a sport, exactly?
Historically, it seems that both WCC and CRA have acted as service organizations,
smoothing the way of ocean-crossing sailors who will go en masse with them. Will
promotion of a sport now take precedence?
JW: A cruising rally is a fun event, but sailing is still called a sport. All our events
have an element of fun competition; it adds to the enjoyment of an ocean crossing
and appeals to our participants. However the events we run are not ocean races; they
are intended for typical offshore cruising sailors, not professional racers. We aim to
keep it that way.
CC: Will the merger encourage "cruising" in the sense that ARC founder Jimmy
Cornell understood it back in the day? Or will the combined organization be doing
something different -promoting a sport or enabling the timid, perhaps? How many
participants are "real cruisers" (i.e. how many continue to cruise) and how many are
getting an item crossed off their "bucket list"?
JW: This is an interesting question. World Cruising Club encourages many poten
tial cruisers to take the first step in expanding their cruising horizons. That they
then go on to cruise further and longer with or without ;.11 i 1 news and
maintains the ethos behind the reasons for the original -I .1 i.-i .... . i the rallies
by Jimmy Cornell.
Our organization can provide a framework to help people plan and prepare for
offshore ....... i .- -i ...... ,.. .....I. .. and experiences from other cruisers.
Noonsite ... 1. i.'.i i .1 I .imunity of cruisers and we publish
extensive preparation advice via v1 ---l;1 ;- i. -- f- Club members.
However, the ARC is so wellkn(c I. .1 .- I l....iI "on the bucket list". Around
40 percent of ARC sailors give their primary reason for participation as "wanting to
take part in the ARC" while just 20 percent say their major reason was to be part of
a large trans-ocean fleet.
CC: Since their beginnings, what changes have WCC and CRA seen in the physical
aspects of the boats (e.g. size, preparation) and in demographics (e.g. age of partici
pants, nationalities, experience)? How will these trends affect future plans?
JW: Over 60 percent of the ARC fleet are between 40 and 50 feet and there is no
doubt that over the past 25 years the size of a typical -ri in yacht has grown larger:
the median size in the ARC has gone from 42 feet tc I I Changes in navigation
and sail-handling technology, the introduction of bow-thrusters and relatively cheap,
reliable, powered anchor windlasses have all made it easier for cruisers to cope with
larger boats. The boat builders have r--.ni-1 this trend and now produce a huge
range of family cruising boats in the I 1* -I I category. Rising incomes and the
relative fall in the cost of a cruising yacht, thanks to mass production by builders,
have also added to the growth in demand for larger cruising yachts.
Despite the mantra of "keep it simple" we have definitely seen the introduction of
more sophisticated i-hn-1-f- on board the typical yacht. Take communications
equipment as an exa.. I I. .. the ARC first started in 1986, most, though not all,
of the yachts had a VHF radio. Some also had an HF radio and we were lucky if we
got more than 50 percent of the fleet positions every two or three days. Now almost
all the boats carry a satellite telephone, around 50 percent also have an HF radio,
and all the boats are tracked by satellite. You could spot the same trends in the use
of refrigeration, electronic charts, power generation and other areas.
The added complexity of modern cruising boats means that people are hungry for
information. We want World Cruising Club to be recognized as experts and a key hub
for circulating knowledge and information about cruising.
Demographics haven't changed dramatically, though one ar i i ,I
in the number of people taking a sabbatical -a year or two . i ........ I II
often with young families. What was once considered as "career suicide", has now
become much more acceptable as employers, at least in Europe, recognize the
importance of a work/life balance.
The ARC has always been an international event, but with each year its scope
extends further. This has been notable with the opening up of Eastern European
countries. In the 2009 event we had 32 different nationalities represented in the
fleet, including virtually every country in Europe, North America and Australasia.
CC: Can the combined organization do more to get internet access aboard vessels at
sea, so participants can browse "noonsite"for example? A Pactor subscription service,
JW: In our experience, the growth of land-based WiFi networks, especially within
h- r'ri .--;n1 r-i--n has changed the way cruisers use the Internet. The "go-any
I' . I ,. ., I, as Sailmail are used for e-mail communications when offshore
or out of range and then local WiFi is used for "band hungry" activities such as
updating 1 1 .- sending h-t-- t .;-1 r- -.-r-hi;n ports via the Internet. On noonsite.
com, we l... I that very I .- I i Ii site via slow-speed connections.
However we are planning to revamp the site to make it available for mobile browsers
CC: Where is the combined organization trying to go in the future -literally as well
as figuratively? What events will be added/deleted from the calendars? Anything
JW: Well, it is far too early to be talking in detail about specific events. We cer
tainly plan to grow our American events and the round-the-world rally World ARC,
and we are constantly looking at ways to enhance the rallies. The added profile from
'i--lin;;. 'RA events will help us pull together more tangible benefits for cruisers,
: .... i of key equipment, charts and insurance. Already one leading European
insurance company is offering lower premiums to members because our boats are
all fitted with satellite tracking devices. The dispersed geographic location of our
participants means that we are also looking for ways to build our community online
and w .. ... .... developments in the pipeline for noonsite.com.
CC:' i. ..... i, u you would like to tell Compass readers?
JW: We certainly hope that our reputation speaks for itself; our proven track
record over many years has seen both the ARC and Caribbean 1500 act as the
launch-pad for thousands of sailors into the world of offshore cruising and we look
forward to welcoming even more onboard.
For more information on World Cruising Club visit www.worldcruising.com. For more
information on the Cruising Rally Association visit www.caribl500.com.
To/From TolFrom Toffrom 4 "
BARBADOS GRENADA ST. VINCENT Pkl\ \TE JP T HANDLING SERVICES
* BEQUIA BEQUIIA UNTIL Prire J arer rLable
*CANOUAN *CANOUAN *CANOUAN
-CARRIACOU UrNIN UNION to und from alpoims wihiln Sth
* MVSTIQE *CARRIACOU CAKIBtIIEAN & SOITH AMRWKICA
Untangled! A Humpback Whale Released
Caroline Rinaldi reports: Seventy metres of line and
buoys, an incre 1.1 1 1 .,.1 1 mess, was found rolled
up around the 1 I .1 1i. )f a humpback whale by
the research team of the Association Evasion Tronicale
Top: After being released from its drogue of discarded
fishing gear, the whale stayed close to the boat for
Bottom: Some of the lines, buoys and pieces of wood
that were taken off the entangled whale
(AET) on April 8th on the west coast of Guadeloupe.
The captain of the research .. 1. 1 i 3 hump
back whales turning around II -... One of
them approached the boat very closely and he noticed
some buoys "following" the whale.
Realizing what had happened, the captain and his
crew began to grab and slowly lift the mess of lines
into the boat while cutting them off the animal, who
stayed close to the boat. After the lines were all cut
away, the humpback remained next to the boat for
some minutes before it realized that it was free. It then
joined its companion, who had remained by its side.
Then th- -- --;n; r-tte north at a speed of eight
knots. I. 1I I them at a distance for a while
to make sure the untangled whale was okay.
It is hoped that the whale will be able to recover
from the experience of 1. .... ... than 40 kilos of
line and buoys from h,, I ., here it became
entar7.--1 n-1 f-r h--- 1-n: r-in' m-t-r-i Without
this cI ... . . I II 1 i I I n able to
make the 1,500-mile (or more) journey back to its
This event was the first of its kind recorded in the
Guadeloupe archipelago waters. It is difficult to say
how many more marine animals might be affected in
the Caribbean. Drifting pieces of discarded nets and
line can be lethal traps for marine mammals, turtles
and other sea creatures.
r- .... ...1 ... ..I efforts are very dangerous and
Si .1, I Iliques so as not to injure humans
or animals. They should only be attempted by those
with extensive field experience with whales. Specific
rescue teams have been specially trained in disen
..1 ... .. n the US East Coast since 1984, having
.1, I i. I more than 90 great whales and many
other marine animals. But the best help remains to
prevent entanglement by not leaving old nets, gear
and other trash in the ocean and working with fisher
ies to modify gear.
For any stranding or distress of marine mammals in
Guadeloupe, contact the French Marine Mammals
Stranding Network: (690) 57 19 44 or evastropic@
For the rest of the Eastern Caribbean contact the
Eastern Caribbean Cetacean Network: nath51 @verizon.
net or visit www.eccnwhale.org.
What To Do with a Beached Whale?
In the Wider Caribbean Region, there is an urgent
need for capacity building in the area of on-the-ground
response to marine mamm-l ftrn-1ii.:. collection of
relevant data, training in :.. 11. i- I -ample collec
tion, archiving of samples and establishment of an
on-line database for findings.
Regional workshops for stranding response have
been completed in the Dutch, French and Spanish
speaking Caribbean countries and territories.
Curacao, Netherlands Antilles, hosted a workshop in
November last year, followed by one in Bouillante,
Guadeloupe, in January, and one in Panama City,
Panama, in April.
The goal of the workshops was to review the tech
niques and protocols for responding to stranding inci
dents for marine mammals and to facilitate possibili
ties for collaboration and harmonization of a French/
Dutch/Spanish stranding network for the Wider
Caribbean Region. This Caribbean network will col
elaborate with an international network of stranding
responders. Another workshop goal is the establish
ment of a centralized archive of samples and a data
b I ,,,, ,, .- I countries in the region.
i- .1. I i. of the workshops included:
Establishing standardized data collection methods;
Continued training of individuals throughout the
Caribbean i; -*rni;- -."i 1 tr.-li;;.1 r,-n-
allow ing for : ... ......... 1 ... i .. i
Training participants in the use of standardized
techniques and protocols for preparation, handling,
transport and storage of marine mammal specimens
when -=-'1"..-n t- marine mammal strandings to
ensure 11 ...1 collection for research;
Establishing a clear "Incident Command System"
on each island to organize stranding events with
clearly defined roles for all involved agencies/organiza
tions, and a set pyramid of authorization;
Reinforcing national and regional coordination
needs for stranding response, analytical capabilities,
and technology and information exchange; and,
Creating a link with other sub-regional stranding
networks in the Caribbean such as the Eastern
Caribbean Cetacean Network and Southern Caribbean
Cetacean Network, ensuring better communication
and cataloging of stranding events.
Because marine mammals are transboundary ani
mals, successful conservation of marine mammals in
the Wider Caribbean Region will ultimately depend
upon the commitment of countries here to build and
maintain, with international assistance, internal
capacities for setting conservation priorities and
achieving high standards of population and habitat
The attendees valued the opportunity to have a
forum to discuss their shared challenges. The discus
sions addressed the future establishment of regional
cooperation programs to increase scientific, technical,
and educational exchange among relevant national,
regional, and international organizations. Specifically,
it was recommended that a regional stranding data
base be developed, which would be attainable by the
different stranding networks of the region and which
would include the expert contacts from all the territo
ries and countries.
A complete report of each workshop is available at
Eastern Caribbean Students Draw Attention
Three school children, from Dominica, '...... and
Martinique, have secured their schools I ** for
books on nature conservation. Emma Farley, Jordan
Simmons and Christelle Brunot are the winners of
Environmental Protection In the Caribbean's (EPIC)
Eastern Caribbean poster competition, "Why are
Seabirds Important?" The pupils will also receive
prizes of binoculars and copies of the book Birds of the
West Indies by H. Raffaele et al
Continued on next page
22% more (sea) horses
The Perkins Sabre M225Ti is designed to replace the Perkins
M200 and M235 and provides more than 22% additional available
horsepower in the same package.
This large capacity 6 liter engine comes in a compact package and only takes out 225 hp.
By comparison, our nearest competition takes that out of a 4 liter engine. Running at a low 2500 rpm
versus the competition's 3300 rpm or higher, the M225Ti will have a longer life (minimum 12,000 hour
TBO) and quieter operation.
The gear-driven fresh water pump has a longer life and less to go wrong while the waste gate turbo
charger gives better performance at lower rpms. An integral plate-type oil cooler combines fewer hoses
with longer life and better efficiency.
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Emma Farley of Ross University Preparatory School,
Dominica, wins the .1. ... 1 ..... year old category
with her colourful i i i ending terns. Lisa
Sorenson, President of the Society for the Conservation
and Study of Caribbean Birds (SCSCB) applauded
Y r '_ _
Emma's lively poster: "This artist showed how the sea
birds and humans alike depend on a healthy marine
ecosystem to survive."
Winner of the ten-and-eleven year old category is
Jordan Simmons, of St. John's Catholic Primary
School, Antigua, with his striking depiction of a variety
of seabird species and their relationship with man
groves. Nils Navarro Pacheco artist and coordinator of
the Caribbean Wildlife Art Working Group praised the
artist for his "interesting, creative and technical use of
Christelle Brunot of College Dillon 2, Martinique,
wins the 12-plus category with her bold poster of a
Brown Pelican. Natalia Collier, President of EPIC, com-
plimented the artist on her portrayal of the pelican
gliding over a pristine sea and Christelle's plea to
Caribbean people to "protect our flora and fauna".
EPIC is currently creating a Seabird Breeding Atlas
of the Lesser Antilles, which will provide much needed
data on the breeding populations of seabirds and their
distribution throughout the region. As well as field
work, Katharine and David Lowrie of EPIC undertake
outreach throughout the area explaining why seabirds
are important and should be conserved.
Katharine explains, "The competition was to raise
awareness of 11 ... ...I. I .1i i. that live on our
islands. We : I ... I .. .-i, poster entries; it
was very difficult choosing the winners and so we
decided to award Seabird ID cards to the runners up:
Florian Magloire, Ecole elementaire Pierre Cirille,
Martinique; Melissa Adams, Kingstown Preparatory
School, St. Vincent; and Linaique Legendry of College
Dillon 2, Martinique. A special highly commended
vote went to Daniel de Bruin, Lynch Plantation
School, St. Eustatius and Ruth Joseph, College Dillon
"The entries illustrated how our next generation of
teachers, politicians, scientists and artists view sea
birds as an integral part of island culture. Seabirds are
also a crucial part of the marine environment, main
training healthy ecosystems. In many parts of the
world, declines in seabirds have heralded collapses in
EPIC would like to thank the : .... onserva
tion charities i .. I. i .. -* I for the
cash prizes, B.. i i .i ii' .. ... i .- the birdbooks
and The Royal Society for the Protection of Birds for
For more information visit www.epicislands.org.
New Tools: Grenadines Marine
The Grenadines Marine Information System MarSIS
is a Geographical Information System that has been
created to integrate existing scientific information with
a variety of local knowledge of the Grenadines' marine
resources, areas important for conservation and liveli
hoods. It also includes hundred of underwater pic
tures and videos across the Grenadines.
fscnooateacners jrom across tne urenaamnes receive
hands-on training in the use of the first underwater
mapping information system of its kind
in the Caribbean
This information system has been collaboratively
developed over the past five years with a range of com-
munity members within each Grenadine Island in order
to provide a wide information base about the marine
environment. This will allow for more informed decision
making and ultimately promote sustainable marine
resource management in the Grenadines. Community
members involved i. tli.: i i t -t i 1 t-1.t -- .1
shopsbe held for I , 1. I . ... - '
can learn how Grenadines MarSIS can be shared with
the school children and used by the wider public.
The Public Affairs Section of the US Embassy,
Barbados and the Eastern Caribbean, provided the
funding to conduct these workshops.
From June 7th through 11th more than 50 primary
and secondary school teachers from across the
Grenadines received hands-on training in the use of
the cutting-edge technology that created the Grenadines
Marine Resource and Space-use Information System,
the first underwater mapping information system of its
kind in the Caribbean.
Using the same i, i i .i i.. -Google Earth,
the powerful geogi I.. ... .....I. .. -. tems technol
ogy was used by Kim Baldwin, a PhD researcher, and
another geospatial technologist with the Centre for
Resollr-- -n.-i mnt ind Environmental Studies at
the ... -' I -1 I Cave Hill, to show teach
ers how the marine information system (including the
3D seafloor model) of the Grenada Bank was created.
They also gave training to the teachers in the use of
Google Earth in order to increase access to this locally
derived information and
incorporate it within sci
ence, technology and geog
The first workshop took
place in Carriacou at the
Multi-Purpose Centre in
Hillsborough on June 7th;
the second on June 8 in
Union Island at the
SProject office; the third
workshop at the Canouan
Government School on
June 9th; the fourth work
shop in Mustique on June
10th; and the final work
shop at the Bequia
Community High School on
For more information visit
conm From the website the
Grenadines MarSIS dataset
can be downloaded into
Google Earth. Also included
is a link to a YouTube video
tutorial and a Google Earth
Users Manual is available.
Trinidad Boaters 'Clean and Beautify'
Down the Islands
Steven Valdez reports: As part of the nationwide
"Clean and Beautify Trinidad & Tobago" campaign on
June 27th, several powerboat enthusiasts and mem-
bers of the Trinidad & Tobago Yacht Club arranged a
clean up of Scotland Bay, Turtle Bay and Chacachacare
on the northwestern coast of Trinidad.
Stuart and Suzanne Dalgliesh of Finesse, Rodrick
and Pauline Clarke of Fun Hog and Christine and
Roger De Freitas of North Star cleaned the inner man
grove area in Scotland Bay as well as the two main
campsites. They collected more than 50 jumbo bags of
mostly plastic and Styrofoam waste. The Hefty garbage
bags were donated by Alston's Marketing.
Continued on page 23
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The new marine protected area will shield the mangrove swamp from development
but still allow its use as a hurricane hole
When Silver Diving owner Werner "Max" Nagel first arrived in Carriacou, Grenada
in 1993, he knew the vibrant coral reefs needed I 1 .r ; .. 1 1 through conserve
tion efforts. "I've been diving in the Far East, I. I II .I- I ... pe and throughout
the Caribbean but there's no place quite like the reef here," explains Max.
Max was not the only one who saw the need for coastal and marine protection around
the island. Concerns were also spreading throughout the community and government
offices at that time. Brian Whyte, of the Carriacou Historical Society, recalls that the
once-popular seine fishery in L'Esterre Bay had started to decline around the same
time. He comments, "Previously [the seine fishery] attracted people from Bequia to
Union Island. It used to have well over 100 people involve I ,, i .. i
they caught, such as jacks, have widely declined in the -
The late 1990s saw Carriacou's marine conservation efforts gain momentum as com
munity members began campaigning to "Save Sandy Island" while independent research
ers and the Fisheries Division assessed the status of marine resources. Then, in 1999,
swells from Hurricane Lenny hit with ferocity. Sandy Island, Carriacou's hallmark cay,
was split in two and denuded of its prized almond and palm trees. Adding to the devas
station, Lenny's tsunami-like surges tore out corals and mangrove trees. Overnight, the
need to protect the marine ecosystem had become more apparent than ever.
In the years that followed, a strategy was developed to protect a 787-hectare area
encompassing the Tyrrel Bay mangroves, Sister Rocks, Mabouya and Sandy Island.
After 15 years of research, planning and community consultation the Sandy
Island/Oyster Bed Marine Protected Area (SIOBMPA) was officially launched on July
31st, 2010. For Max its a dream come true. "Everyone is congratulating [the Board]
because we took the steps to protect the area," he smiles. "It's been a 100 percent
Having seen all the enthusiasm from Max, Brian and many others, I was surprised
when someone greeted the area's new protected status with scepticism. In my con
versation with Sailor's Guide to the Windward Islands author, Chris Doyle, he raised
some important concerns that deserve clarification, particularly those that may limit
boating activities. As a participant in the establishment of the SIOBMPA, I would like
to explain the decisions behind the decision to protect it.
As mentioned above, the efforts to establish the SIOBMPA date back to the mid
1990s -further if a 1988 government proposal is included. This process has involved
the participation of community members, business owners, international organize
tions, international conservation groups, government, independent researchers, con
sultants and academics. The SIOBMPA contains mangroves, seagrass beds, beaches
and coral reefs that were prioritized for conservation because of their vital contribu
tions to Carriacou's coastal and marine system and quite possibly to the entire
Grenadian Bank. In 2007, a management plan jointly published by The Nature
Conservancy and Grenada Fisheries Division ranked the overall biodiversity health of
the area as requiring human intervention measures for conservation. All evidence
showed that protected status was needed to ensure the health of the area.
In the first year of operation, the SIOBMPA will trial a series of plans for which
feedback will be welcomed. One critical change for boaters is 1. i i. .. I
-hIri;;: -r.encies, will no longer be permitted. The first pha I ...
I. I I have been installed on the southeast side of Sandy Island, with future
moorings planned for L'Esterre Bay once concerns ove. .1 building up, sea floor
substrate and safety have been resolved. To promote .1 1 at sea, particularly for
swimming, snork 1.... ...1 ..1 ,. i... .reas around the small islands, Point
Cistern and the T - II ... .... .11 "recreational only" zones. On the topic
of safety, the Tyrrel Bay llnner--- continue to provide ideal boat shelter -lIri;;.
hurricanes. The majority ( I II,. I elected area is comprised of two different : -1,,
zones that are designed to promote sustainable fisheries.
Promoting sustainability in community and local livelihoods ar .... ..
behind the protected area. One of Brian's hopes is to see the : .1 i i.
populations so that L'Esterre's seine :'.-...i. i.. .. an be rebuilt. Efforts are also
being made to hire and train local -i .I .. ..'I.I the area's current resource
users -park fees will be used to support these efforts. In general, the role of com-
munity has a place at all levels of the SIOBMPA's operations. Following a regional
trend in coastal and marine conservation, the SIOBMPA is co-managed by a board
representing non-governmental organizations, community based organizations, gov
ernment ministries, and private associations. Further, to remain inclusive, the proc
ess allows for any local stakeholder to become a board member.
For Chris, like many visitors to Carriacou, Sandy Island and the Tyrrel Bay man
groves conjure up memories of some magical moments in his life. He recalled a
youthful memory in which he impressed a young .- ,. I ..lale diplomat by sailing
her out to Sandy Island's beach where he cooked .u I' -1.1 caught fish for lunch.
More recently, he finds himself seeking the tranquillity of the mangrove estuary.
"Half an hour here makes me at peace with the world," he proclaims.
i--s n i ~ that present and future
I hnerwE users can enjoy such
Lsteras L s unique experiences in
ana e L e a the area's natural beau
bo bo ty is a primary reason
for the establishment of
the SIOBMPA. Changes
are bound to invoke dif
S ferent reactions, but I
Ss te maintain that, for the
A, sake of long-term revi
S'talization the ecosystem,
"n a .all the science has point
a ed to the need to protect
and monitor the area.
"It's amazing! We have
85 percent of the reef
h fish, creatures and cor
i als documented in Paul
f 1 .......... .. i i ', ,I
MPA zones. Note: the Mooring Zone marked with an I ".'. I
asterisk is currently only a proposal, pending further boasts in reference to an
management resources and safety review authoritative marine
biology book series. In
his opinion, as in mine, that's something wo. ,i i I i,,,. lust imagine what life
will accompany the proper management and '. I i, ,, I II"- area.
For more information contact SIOBMPA Co Management Board at firstname.lastname@example.org.
or Roland Baldeo, MPA Coordinator, Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry & Fisheries,
Fisheries Division, Government of Grenada, (473) 440-3814, email@example.com
Neil Ladell, MSc, is interning with the Sustainable Grenadines Inc. as part of the
Coady International Institute's Youth in Partnership Program, which is funded by the
Canadian International Development Agency.
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Tight Racing in Trinidad & Tobago
Dinghy Season Champs
The Trinidad & Tobago Sailing Association saw excit-
ing dinghy racing on June 12th, during the final
Budget Marine Dinghy Ranking Race of the season. A
presentation ceremony was held after the races and
trophies were awarded for both the April term winners
and the Season Champions.
Excellent skills were on show in the three races from
the young racers in the Optimist Class in light breezes,
which favored the smaller competitors. Myles
Kaufmann showed good speed downwind to take the
first race in the Optimist Advanced group, with this
season's Champion, Derek Poon Tip, coming a close
second. Race Two saw some close battles as the sail-
ors began to get accustomed to the conditions. Myles
Kaufmann took the honours again with Derek Poon Tip
in second place. In Race Three, Kelly Ann Arrindell
took first place, with Myles second and Derek third.
A gutsy performance by the Vessigny Vikings Club's
nine-year-old Geovannie Leafai saw him sweep the
field in the Beginner Class, winning both races and
confirming his place as the Season Champion. The
Beginner Class continues to grow and this term has
seen excellent progress with races being won by
Stevon McSween and Shawn Ramoutal, both from
Vessigny, and Ryan Peters from Chaguaramas.
In the Laser Radial Class, Mark Peters took the April
term prize after a very close series of races against
Wesley Scott ended with Mark winning by a single
point. However, Wesley took the honours as Season
Champion. Daniel Briggs and Dekife Charles continue
to develop well in the Laser Class, both having won
races this season. Vessigny's Faith and Leah Moraine
showed their superiority, winning two of the three 420
Class races. Alianson Thomas and Nicholas Knox took
the 420 Class trophy for the April term, but Faith and
Leah won the Season Champions' trophy.
The TTSA Sailing School Administrator thanked
Budget Marine for continuing to sponsor the ranking
race events, which are vital to the development of
young sailing talent in Trinidad & Tobago.
The sailing school is now geared up to run sailing
summer camps till the end of August. September will
see the final stages of preparation for the launch of
the new National Sailing Academy with the goal of
establishing a modern structure for the development
of sailing as a sport for all in Trinidad & Tobago.
For more information contact youthsoilingschool@
Big Fleet for St. Lucia
National Dinghy Championships
Danielle De Rouck reports: The 4th Annual St. Lucia
National Optimist and Laser Sailing Championships
were held June 12th and 13th, hosted by the St. Lucia
This year's new sailing class, the Benjamin Optimist,
had eight participants aged six to ten, newcomers
who raced well in perfect conditions on the Saturday
morning. The Optimist Class had nine competitors
aged eight to 14 years who fought through variable
conditions including high winds of 23 knots and heavy
rain. The Laser Class had ten competitors, the biggest
The prizegiving ceremony was attended by the St.
Lucia Olympic Committee President Richard Peterkin
and regatta sponsors including IGY Marina manager
Adam Foster, who provided sponsorship for 20 young
people to join the SLYC sailing programme.
Congratulations were given to all sailors and win-
ners, as well as regatta organizers and coaches Max
Todd and Fredric Sweeney. The regatta committee
and sailors thank the regatta sponsors: IGY Marina,
Island Water World, Bryden & Partners, JE Bergasse &
Co., Chris Renwick and Home Services Ltd.
St. Lucian youth sailors Stephanie Devaux-Lovell, Luc
Chevrier and Marcus Sweeney competed in the North
American Optimist Championships in Canada from
June 26th to July 4th; Jasia King competed for her sec-
ond time in the Volvo Youth World Laser Championships
in Turkey, also in July; and Stephanie Lovell travels with
the St. Lucia team to the Youth Olympic Games in
Singapore in August. We wish them all success.
St. Lucia National Dinghy Championship Winners
BENJAMIN OPTIMIST CLASS
1) Danny Dillon
2) Amit Zevi
3) Kai Wagstaff
1) Stephanie Devaux-Lovell
2) Marcus Sweeney
3) Luc Chevrier
4.7 LASER CLASS
1) Stephanie Devaux-Lovell
2) Raina Bergasse
3) Marc Spurway
RADIAL LASER CLASS
1) Beth Lygoe
2) Thomas Meixner
3) Jasia King
Curagao Teen Tops Caribbean Laser Championships
Over the June 12th and 13th weekend, Curacao's
18-year-old sailing sensation Dennis van den Berg won
the 21st Caribbean Laser Championships sponsored
by Heineken Premium Light and hosted by Club
Orient. The regatta, held in St. Maarten, attracted 19
Sailing for the first time with a Standard rig, Dennis
won five of the eight races sailed, finished in second
place twice and dropped only to third place in his
worst race. Antigua's Karl James, a five-time consecu-
tive winner here in the past, won the first and last
races, placing second in the Open Class and third in
the overall standings. St. Barth's Markku Harmala took
third in the Open and fifth overall.
In the Masters' Class, St. Barth's Benoit
Meesemaecker sailed consistently well to take first
place (second overall), St. Maarten's Frits Bus was sec-
ond (fourth overall) and the USA's Timothy Landt fin-
ished third (sixth overall).
The Radial Class was won by Rodrigo Delgado,
Manuel Lehoux was second, and St. Maarten's Ernst
A squall greeted the fleet before the first race on
the Saturday and then sucked up all the wind, creat-
ing light and shifty conditions on the course. The
Sunday returned to more stable, but still light, condi-
tions. Sint Maarten Yacht Club Commodore Robbie
Ferron presented the Dominican Republic's Omar Bros
with an SMYC burgee, noting that the amiable sailor
has participated in the regatta no fewer than 16
times. Prizewinners went home with framed Antoine
S w Bergasse are
Puerto Rico's Gonzalez Wins Scotiabank International
Carol Bareuther reports: Concentration spelled suc-
cess for 14-year-old Jorge Gonzalez, from San Juan,
Puerto Rico, who won the 18th Annual Scotiabank
International Optimist Regatta, held out of the St.
Thomas Yacht Club, US Virgin Islands from June 18th
through 20th. "It was cold, windy and shifty and that's
what mde itso important toconcentrate," says
Gonzalez who took the fleet lead on the second day of
racing and held it when the two final races were can-
celed on the last day of sailing due to stormy weather.
The USA's Duncan Williford finished second overall,
while St. Thomas Nichols Gartner placed third overall.
Gartner was also the top-scoring US Virgin Islands sailor.
Ninety sailors ages 7 to 15 years from 11 nations -
Barbados, Bermuda, Brazil, the British Virgin Islands,
Curagao, Canada, the Dominican Republic, Puerto
Rico, Trinidad & Tobago, the United States plus all
three US Virgin Islands set sail in this Caribbean
Sailing Association sanctioned event. Eight races were
completed for the Red, White and Blue Fleets and 18
for the Beginner Green Fleets.
Gonzalez's finish also earned him a first place in the
13- to 15-year-old Red Fleet. In the 11- to 12-year-old
Blue Fleet, it was Romain Screve from San Francisco,
California, who took the top place prize. Ford
McCann from Houston, Texas, bested the 10- and -
under White Fleet. This marked the first regatta that
David Kleeger raced outside of his home waters in St.
Croix, and he won the beginner Green Fleet against
17 other sailors from a host of locations.
-ontinued on next page
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Fourteen-year-old Megan Grapengeter-Rudnick,
from Connecticut, USA, finished as Best Female and
fifth overall. Grapengeter-Rudnick also won the Pete
Ives Award, given for a combination of sailing prow-
ess, sportsmanship, determination and good attitude
both on and off the water.
Meanwhile, Puerto Rico's eight-year-old Savannah
Baus won the Chuck Fuller Sportsmanship Award.
Scotiabank in the US Virgin Islands has proudly
served as title sponsor of the Scotiabank International
Optimist Regatta since 1992. This youth regatta is the
largest annual event of its kind in the Caribbean.
For full results, visit www.styc.net
Antigua's James Cops Caribbean
Top Caribbean sailor and former Olympian Karl
James's Antiguan team turned in a typically masterful
show to win the two-day Marlow One Design
Caribbean Keelboat Championship, held in St.
Maarten June 19th and 20th, never dropping below
third in any of the 18 heats sailed.
James relished the mixture of downpours and blus-
tery conditions in the Simpson Bay Lagoon that made
racing the Sunfast 20s more unpredictable than ever,
no big deal for James whose skills have been honed
in the equally shifty Jolly Harbour of Antigua.
Frits Bus's St. Maarten team finished in second place
for the fourth time in a row, this time after breaking the
tie for third place with Chris Marshall's Gill team. Simon
Manley steered Scuba Shop team into a very respect-
able fourth place.
A surprise fifth place went to the only youth team in
the regatta, skippered by 15-year-old Jolyon Ferron
and crewed by Saskia Looser, Stephen Looser, and
Rhone Findlay. The youth team was invited "for the
experience" to make up the correct number of
entrants for the regatta. To their credit they matched
their peers tack for tack, winning two races and finish-
ing in second place twice. "We were expecting last or
second last, so we're very pleased," said Jolyon, who
added it was the first time the four had sailed togeth-
er as a team.
A total of 13 teams participated, with six from St.
Maarten and seven from Antigua, Curacao, Trinidad,
and St. Barth's.
Orion of Puerto Rico Conquers Quantum
Orion, skippered by internationally renowned sailor
Fraito Lugo from Puerto Rico, won this year's Quantum
IC24 International Sailing Regatta hosted June 19th
and 20th by the Royal BVI Yacht Club.
Racing was challenging this year, owing to inclem-
ent weather. Courses had to be reset several times as
a result of changing wind directions, and wind speeds
varied between zero and 25 knots.
The fleet of nine boats came from Puerto Rico, the
US Virgin Islands and the BVI. Second place went to
BVI boat Sea Hawk, skipper Mike Hirst, and third place
to St Thomas boat Brand New Second Hand, skipper
Race organizer from the Royal BVI Yacht Club, Guy
Phoenix, commented: "We were delighted that so
many boats entered the regatta, particularly given
the bad weather. We hope that next year we can
build on the success of this year's events and see
even more countries represented. Special thanks to
the event sponsors, Quantum Sails, who remain faithful
supporters of this event."
For full results visit www. rbviyc, com.
Windsurfing and Stand-Up Paddle Through the BVI
Wilhelm Schurmann from Brazil won the Windsurfing
Class while Californian Lance Erickson took top honors
in the SUP (stand-up paddle) class in the Highland
Spring HIHO 2010 event, which attracted racers from
11 countries on a tour of the BVI starting June 26th.
Daily windsurfing and stand-up paddle races pitted
competitors on long-distance inter-island races. A
combined 100 miles of competition were completed
with races including the 12-mile Anegada Race and
the 27-mile Sir Francis Drake thriller.
Second in the windsurfing fleet went to veteran
racer Jean Marc Peyronnet from St. Maarten, while
Andrea Colombo of Switzerland took third. In the inau-
gural stand-up paddle class, Ernie Johnson claimed
second leaving Florida racer Tom Pace in third. The
top female racer was Andie Johnson and surfing leg-
end Mickey Munoz was fourth overall.
"What a great week," said Schurmann, the world's
top-ranked Formula racer. "Great inter-island racing
and great parties!"
Adding stand-up paddling or SUP to this year's
Highland Spring HIHO event was a huge success. The
paddlers covered 19 miles in five days of racing. The
Mount Everest of the week was the six-mile paddle
from Pelican Island to Little Thatch, won by USVI racer
Colin Butler. Other race highlights were the five-mile
Anegada coast run and the fun relay races which
included all event participants, including men,
women and kids who had never before been on a
"Lots of fun," said John and Bari Denney from Jupiter
Paddleboarding in Florida who made the trek down
to the event. "We already have two full boatloads of
people signed up for next year's event!"
The next HIHO will take place June 26th through July
3rd, 2011. For more information visit www. go-hiho com.
Bequia Junior Sailing Participates in Premier's Cup
Ellen Ebert Birrell reports: With new skills and enthusi-
asm, six Bequia teenagers and their coach recently
returned from Tortola. The 8th Annual KATS Premier's
Cup International Youth Regatta was held July 9th
through 11th. On arrival day, competitors practiced
with the IC24 racing fleet. After 12 weekend races, St.
Thomas came in first, edging out Anguilla, followed by
Standing: Jamal OUlivierre, Kamol Bess and Coach
Courtney Adams. Kneeling: Kimanyi James, Storm
Corea, Lincoln Daniel and Cordell Adams
BVI, Puerto Rico, St. Croix, Bequia and then the USA.
Junior programs are making news around the
Eastern Caribbean, including the newly formed
National Sailing Academy of Antigua & Barbuda and
Culebra (Puerto Rico) Junior Sailing. With the new mil-
lennium, Bequia Youths and the Sea which taught
swimming, knot-tying, and sailing in local double-
enders was started by Bequia Rotary. Eventually, it
fell under the magic direction of Mackie Simmons.
Through his extraordinary sailing skills and dedication,
junior numbers swelled. He called upon high school
students to build two Optis, taking the fleet to seven,
and utilized Sunfish, J/24s, double-enders and other
resources to nurture interest and competency among
Bequia children. With his death a few years ago, the
junior program stalled. It is now in the process of
rebuilding with support from Bequia Rotary, the
Bequia Sailing Club and community leaders including
Mackie's brother, Sylvester Simmons, current
"The next step for Bequia Junior Sailing is to build a
group of kids sixteen years of age and under who
meet regularly throughout the year. From that
group, a team can be selected each spring to rep-
resent Bequia in the annual Premier's Cup Regatta.
They need year-round coaching to build boat speed
and their understanding of racing rules and strate-
gy," Simmons says. He owns Iron Duke, a century-old
Bequia-built sailing seine boat that he used to race.
Simmons admits that his dedication is to youth but
he lacks yacht-racing expertise. He is enthused
about resources both locally and regionally. He
believes recruiting young people who race and can
dedicate time each week to work with the juniors
will be key.
Sponsorship for travel expenses came from LIAT
Airlines, Bequia Sailing Club and Sand Pit Company.
Regatta fee, lodging, meals and entertainment came
from KATS (Kids and The Sea), individual volunteers,
Nanny Cay Marina, Peg Legs Landing, Rotary Clubs of
Tortola, and other sponsors.
Read more about the regatta at www. virginisland-
Light Airs for Lucky Horseshoe Race
Peter "Wipers" Hoad reports: It was a
hot, no-wind day in Barbados for the
Lucky Horseshoe Regatta, held July 18th.
Many sailors arrived on the beach to find
a sea of glass with few ripples. Bajans in
general don't like sailing in less than ten
knots of wind, so it took some coaxing to
get them going.
Once started, the racing brain took over
in three classes: J/24 (13 boats), Laser and
Cruising. Crews were under pressure to get
their boats going and find wind.
In the end, Ron Hunt's J/30, Jaystar
won Cruising Class, Jason Tindale won
Laser Standard, Amy Cox topped Laser
Radial, and in the J/24s Neil Burke's
Impulse stole victory from Paul Johnson's
Somtins Happnin, with Colin Syme's
S Maximum taking third.
Special thanks to Philip Barnard from St.
Vincent and Robby Yearwood from
Grenada for bringing their boats and
crews to make the event more competi-
tive. As usual, the Lucky Horseshoe restau-
rant's after-race party makes us all win-
ners with free burgers and fish cutters and two hours
of free drinks, topped off with live music, fun for so
and fun for all.
Round DR Race
II Vuelta a la Hispaniola
A..-- ^ .
join as on Register Now sending an email t
www.vueltalahispaniola.com providing as your information
Nov- 161 Dic-0
Santa doming* D.R
o QO YACHT SERVICE
make your passage faster and more comfortable. The table below, courtesy Don
Street, author of Street's Guides and compiler of Imray-Iolaire charts, which
shows the time of the meridian passage (or zenith) of the moon for this AND next
month, will help you calculate the tides.
Water, Don explair.- .. . tries to run toward the moon. The tide starts
running to the east ...I . loonrise, continues to run east until about an
hour after the moon reaches its zenith (see TIME below) and then runs westward.
From just after the moon's setting to just after its nadir, the tide runs eastward;
and from just after its nadir to soon after its rising, the tide runs westward; i.e.
tide the floods from west to east. Tim-rn" ^i-n fnr local.
Note: the maximum tide is 3 or 4 1 11 11, new and full moons.
For more information, see "Tides and Currents" on the back of all Imray Iolaire
charts. Fair tides!
24 0000 (full)
8 1124 (new)
Cobbler's Boots or,
How Not To Do It...
An Atlantic Crossing, That Is
by Frank Pearce
Lucy did warn me, phoning from Horta, b-in- inp t arrived as crew on the
:.....i. ..I i 140-footFrers-designed Rebecca 1 i I... of predominant winds
(I * I .. i reaching 40 knots, and huge seas. Rebecca had reduced to storm jib
and trysail. "And it's cold," she said, "thermals, fleeces, oilskins needed." And
this on Rebecca.
Lucy made me promise to always be clipped on; she knows I am somewhat negli
gent in that matter. Lucy has made numerous Atlantic crossings to and from the
Caribbean, two of which we did together, and for her to be signed on as crew on
Rebecca shows that she knows a thing or two. Her warnings should have been taken
seriously. I didn't.
I i...... Some 1,500 miles up and down the Eastern Caribbean islands during
th '_.... I season and having taken part in various regattas, I was, in retro
spect, complacent about the preparation of my 50-foot Sciareli-designed schooner,
Samadhi, for the Atlantic. My previous five Atlantic -r--.-1i had been in relatively
benign weather and I was looking forward to more c II. .- ... :t-hi;n1 some fish,
playing a bit of music, reading some books at leisure, doing a I changes of
course and getting out the old sextant for old times' sake.
- ::" f
ine aurnor set outJrom Antgua anoara ris ou oot schooner, 5amaani, Dounajor
Europe but he hadn't heeded Lucy's warnings orfollowed his own advice...
My crew, James, flew out from the UK, having taken a month off to do the trip. He
and I have sailed a lot together and having him on board was the best bit of prepare
tion that I did. The potential third crewmember was ultimately not available and by
the time we were ready to go, most of the crew seeking positions had fled from
Antigua, so it was just the two of us.
Samadhi, with her schooner rig, is beautifully balanced (more than can be said for
me) and very easy to handle (ditto). We have an autopilot and an excellent Sailomat
wind vane steering gear. My last crossing, aboard Whirlaway, a 42-foot teak-hulled
Holman-designed sloop, had been singlehanded and no problem, so having two of us
was going to be luxury.
Our initial intention had been to sail from Antigua to Anguilla. In Anguilla we could
meet up with the new owner of Tradition, the 50-foot Carriacou sloop that I had
previously refitted in Carriacou (see "The Tradition Project" in the October through
December 2009 issues of Compass), wait for a good long-range forecast, and depart
from there. But on leaving Antigua we had a brisk 25-knot easterly and were able to
head off due north, so why drop down to leeward to Anguilla? We romped along,
making good 165 miles in the first 24 hours.
Iwas t .l-i f-- .:.t f--i various I . .. i. 1 1 .. i- .....I ,,,o Herb
Hilgenbe.,. .11 .. ..- Had weci. I ... .- .. .11 ,. i..... .. - 1i would
have given us detailed weather advice for our area, as he was doing for about 20 other
yachts on their way to the Azores. Herb had his work cut out as there were some nasty
systems coming off the US East Coast, seemingly emanating from Guatemala and
developing as they moved north towards Bermuda. His advice to other yachts I am
sure saved many of them getting into foul i,. I ..,. them either away from
the systems or suggesting they stop and he i .... i. .. had pa' ii i.. ..
When we left Antigua on May 20th it was the time of full moon r r I .1 I ,I
is prospect of heavy weather. As we sailed north, winds were often up to 30 knots or
more, and the seas became huge when the strong full-moon current turned against
the wind. Thirty knots of wind is not so unusual in the Caribbean, but the seas
generated in mid-Atlantic, especially with a strong wind-over-tide situation, are
My lack of preparation was soon exposed. The decks, on what is a normally "dry"
boat, were often under a depth of water and deck hatches that had appeared to be
watertight were letting in water. I had failed to secure personal stuff properly down
below and so guitar, squeeze-box and books were thrown all over the place. Bedding
and bunks' - .1- -vet, and it was getting remarkably cold.
The only I --.... i I. water on Samadhi is to the "shower" in the cockpit:
simply a trigger on the end of a tube stowed in the lazarette.
Continued on next page
continued from previous page
I had just carelessly dropped it into the lazarette. Later, when going to use the
shower, I found the pump was not working. Why? The trigger had caught on some
thing and been pumping out our fresh water for goodness knows how long and the
pump fuse had blown. Never mind the pump, how much water have we lost? Maybe
one complete tank, half of our ;-i-- t ii1
T- in -r bunk, I heard I ....i ... .. .. .- I . -i -1..... through the main
i.i,,,. the cabin sole I was alarmed to see how much water there was there.
In 35 knots of winds with huge seas running, we lifted up the floorboards and
pumped out the last dregs of water to check where it was ( .... i
stuff around to gain access, crawling in beside the engine i ,
was -Ir-n;;i into the bilge from right aft. How could that be? The lazarette hatch is
on i' .1 I I Seawater was rushing down the side decks, along the cockpit coam-
ing and flooding overboard -in doing so passing over the lazarette hatch. This hatch
had never needed to be sealed, yet. James caulked the hatch with rubber extrusion
and the ingress of water stopped.
On past trips from the Caribbean to the Azores, I have preferred to be about 500
miles east of Bermuda to keep clear of dirty weather to the west. Then I kept going
north until about 39 degrees North, before 1 .1 i.. due east for the Azores
depending of course on the weather outlook. .I .1nuch northerly in it, we were
hard on the wind, which was fine until during one night, when winds were again up
to about 35 knots, the current started to: .... .... i I .. I .. I I I ..1 the seas
became huge. I should have slowed her c .. i .1 i. ... i. comfort
of my bunk (again!) Samadhi seemed to be coping well ... 1. Then she fell off two
monster waves with sickening crashes. As I felt her .Ii each wave and then
be ... I ,,, i .. ,, i i
I,,.- i, ,,i i .-h II I I , h h h II .. w ,, w ay of the fore-
mast and there had been movement of other joints in the interior joinery work.
At the time we had no foreman set, had three reefs in the main and a tiny bit of
jib; there was not much left to reduce. We really needed a strong storm jib thanked
on to an inner forestay and a storm trysail, none of which we had. I.. i i, i
cent genoa rolled to pocket-handkerchief size is not satisfactory: I. i i ,
bad, it is halfway up the forestay and the material is not really strong enough.
Changing down to a smaller yankee set in the groove of the foil was not a safe option
in this amount of wind with only two crew.
A potential Tropical Cy-1-;-.- --- 7i;-; n u- t--*r-ls Bermuda. (It truthfully could
not be called a Tropical I i ....1.1 .11 . I I f the hurricane season on June
1st, but that's what it was.) We were then about 500 miles out of the Leewards,
about 400 miles southeast of Bermuda.
Time for a council of war. "What you thinking, James?" "I was thinking how nice
the Caribbean is!"
We called up coastguard weather on the sat phone, gave our position and received
a most worrying report. Without exaggeration, they warned of seas up to 25 feet. Yes,
really. Okay, moderating, but I should hope so! We either had to stop and heave to
or turn and head south. With 2,000 miles to go and some 1 .;- --- decided on
the latter. (It had been a trifle worrying that Maltese Falcon, I I overall, had
been checking in with Herb and he had advised them to stay in Bermuda and let the
weather settle down.)
i..-i .1 I,.. ,.11 the forecasts available to us, there had been no mention ear
S' i I I I I like a trough, extending west to east about 30 miles south of
us. I could hardly believe what I was h-.r.:i;;- nt when we had decided to head
south and get out of it, here was this 1 I .. .- weather in our way. Well, we'd
either heave to and wait for it to pass over, or sail south through it and hope nothing
We dropped the main, took more rolls in the now very little jib, then the wind
increased to more than 40 knots again. The size of the seas was something that in
55-plus years of sailing (help, am I that old?) I had never before encountered. If it were
not a tad worrying it would have beer ..1 .. ...I I 11 .t James had a grin
on his face as Samadhilifted to each 11. i.. .- ... ,, I I down their backs.
.i ... hourly stints on deck we sailed through the night. Samadhi behaved won
I "iih and gave no cause for alarm, but would that scrap of jib hold out? It did,
and in the morning we dramatically sailed out from under the heavy overcast clouds.
The wind, of course, then went to the southeast with more heavy rain and poor vis
ibility. But what else could we expect this trip but wind dead on the nose?
Eventually the seas calmed down and we even had to do a bit of motoring. When
the rain cleared we got stuff on deck to dry out and started to get warm again. Three
days later we were in Anguilla and pleased to be there, even if somewhat chastised
by our experience and me being very cross with myself for not having assumed bad
weather and prepared Samadhi for it. Sorry Lucy, sorry Samadhi I'll listen next
time, promise! And thank you, James, for never being critical of my shortcomings in
preparation, for always being cheerful and positive.
But, why "Cobbler's Boots"? This could be called "Don't do as I do, do as I say" but,
like the old cobbler who walks around with the soles of his shoes hanging off, I as a
Marine Surveyor had failed to follow the advice and requirements that I would request
of others. Maybe its not a bad thing for the likes of myself to go to sea seriously now
and again, if only to reaffirm my beliefs in how a vessel should be prepared.
What conclusions can one draw from the experience?
Firstly, I should not have left at a time when I was really tired. This would also
have avoided sailing at the time of full moon.
I should have checked the watertight integrity of hatches and skylights with a
serious hose test.
I should have had heavy duty storm sails. An inner forestay with hank-on storm
jib and a storm trysail would have been so reassuring. With a small strong rig like
that, Samadhi, being a very "sea kindly" yacht, 1 1 1 1, .. 1 .1 ,,. .. 1 ,, I doubt
we would have avoided the damage caused by :, I.. .... i. I I-- II.. '.I, seas.
As a rule of thumb I have often asked clients to consider what will happen in the
event of a serious knockdown, something that would not have been unlikely in the
wind and sea conditions we experienced. Will the cooker fall off its gimbals? What
about batteries, gas cylinders and all that heavy gear in the bilges, maybe a spare
anchor and chain, tools, portable generator, and the cabin sole itself -stuff nor
mally secured by gravity that will fly up into the deckhead if she falls over badly? It
happened twice to the Smeatons on Tzu Hang many years ago. Read their book Once
is Enough: photographs of impact damage to their deckhead caused by flying tools
and so on are alarming to say the least.
Admittedly, we never came near to that, but we did find that moving about in the
saloon became an acrobatic feat, largely because of insufficient handholds. Being
thrown across the saloon to collide with the table could so easily cause injury. With big,
beamy boats placement of sufficient handholds needs to be a serious consideration.
A 1 .1 .. .. -' simply stowed them in a locker in the forecabin. Bad place.
Upon ... ,..... I i .... I each and every egg was rotten and the yolks broken; I can
only assume it was the severe motion that had scrambled them within their shells.
Many other yachts safely made the crossing at that time; some others turned back.
Now Samadhi is back in Grenada, all the repairs have been done and she is stronger
than ever. Hopefully we will have taken part in the Carriacou Regatta Festival by the
time this is read and can look forward to visiting Portugal next year.
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Cwten North Kerica Baiaas Sawi Eurpe
want to tell you about our one day in
Dominica. Simeon Hoggarth and I anchored
Alianna, our 1983 Corbin 39, by the town of
Portsmouth in Prince Rupert Bay. It's a
beautiful dark sand bay at the north of the island,
lined with palm trees, local bars and restaurants. We
only planned to stay the night, but our friends Mark
and Liesbet -n rri- n--llnr d 11i t- i-nd at least one
day seeing ... i .- .,,i, .I ,1.1 ,
And so, a car was arranged and by 8:00AM the next
morning we were on our way. The four of us squeezed
in, plus Darwin, Irie's dog. We drove down the east
coast of the island, stopping occasionally for photo
opportunities and then hung a left at the main town,
Roseau, and drove up into the tropical rainforest. The
main roads were full of potholes, and the deeper we got
into the rainforest the more track-like they became.
The car gave us great cause for concern with the
noises it was making but it hung in there for the entire
trip. Road signs were few and far between but friendly
locals and a map kept us from veering too far from our
course. The roadsides are covered in tropical foliage
mango, breadfruit, banana and papaya trees all
grow in abundance.
Main photo: The 'Mother', one of two magnificent
cascades at Trafalgar Falls
Inset: Colorful heliconia blossoms accent the rainforest
Above: Prince Rupert Bay
Below, right: The trekkers -Simeon, Liesbet,
Mark and Darwin
Our first stop was at one of two freshwater crater
lakes, aptly named Freshwater Lake, the largest in
Dominica. W . 1. .e no longer in rain
forest but "cl i i -1 .II I ; ... and mosses grow
ing wild and distinctive red heliconia flowers and gin
ger lilies adding splashes of colour to the lush green
ery. The lake, the hills and the treetops were covered
in a thick mist and the temperature was cool. A small
dam at the lake serves as the source for hydroelectric
power providing 40 percent of Dominica's electricity.
Huge wooden pipes a metre in diameter can be seen
r : -lown the mountainsides.
-1 ..- headed through muddy roads that looked
like they could turn into landslides at any minute
thank goodness it wasn't raining -toward our next
stop, Titou Gorge. We were glad there was no oncom-
ing traffic, as these roads are very narrow.
Titou Gorge ("little throat") is a lovely spot. A short
walk along a river leads to a wide pool coming out of
the gorge. We swam up the narrow gap in diamond
C h.11 . 1. i .. I ,11 ,i 1 ,1 i, I I e
ing waterfall and a rock that basked in sunshine
where we could sit and rest. Another stream of water
cascades from above into the pool; this one is warm
thanks to hct ]rin. a sweet contrast to the cold
crisp water -', I. I ,' standing in. Best of all, we
had the whole place to ourselves.
After all this we were starting to fe-l hllnf- -n-
made our way to a small village called' ..
where we found a local restaurant open, many being
shut owing to the lack of cruise ships that day. Sad to
say this was our only bad experience of Dominican
hospitality. We had asked the girl the price of the food
in advance and ordered 1... 1 The owner then
turned up and was ver' i'' 11 ith us. However
when the food arrived we were told they got the price
wrong and that it was more than double what we had
originally been told. Perhaps : i ....... ,mistake,
but we couldn't help but v .. I .1 ere being
taken advantage of. The owner finally agreed to a lower
price but still more than we had -ri inll- been told.
Despite this we still had the re1 I I 11. day to enjoy
and set off to our next spot, Trafalgar Falls. Here we
saw not just one but two spectacular waterfalls. The
first, taller and thinner, is called "Father Fall" and to
the right is the faster and denser "Mother Fall". Water
that crosses the Titou Gorge falls down 200 feet of
steep rock face. At the base of these falls are hot
springs that form a series of small connecting pools
that run alongside the river. We bathed in these pools,
luxuriating in the therapeutic warmth -again with
barely another person in sight.
As the day started closing in on us we made our way
back to Roseau, stopping briefly to pick up the odd
orange, mango or breadfruit that had fallen by the
roadside. Back in Roseau, Mark and Liesbet, who had
visited before, showed us a couple of churches and
Government houses and the library, as well as the 18th
century Fort Young, which is now a rather nice hotel.
Now it was time to head back up the coast to
Portsmouth, drop the car off and make time for one
last Kabuli beer at Big Papa's Restaurant before head
ing back to the boat and an early night in preparation
for a 5:00AM start for our next island.
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18 Victoria Street, Roseau
767-448-2705 Ext Marine
Fax: 767-448-7701 VHF 16
Budg et Marine, Doyle
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Hiking the North End of Dominica:
b- F)T i qhrnn
I was sure we could not fit six more people in the little bus, maybe three or four,
but not six. It appeared that all of the seats were occupied. Not to worry, in a few
seconds and with a bit of island magic, everyone was out of the bus, seating rear
ranged and we were guided into seats for the hilly drive from Portsmouth to
Capuchin. We told the driver that we would like to go to the trailhead to hike to
Pennville and he said no problem. I guess it was obvious that six "tourists" with hats,
sunglasses, daypacks and walking sticks were bound for a hike.
The trailhead is the end of the road, so getting started is easy. Our driver let us off
about a quarter mile from the trailhead, which has a large -.... -I .1... -1. .t the trail
is Section 13 of the Waitukubuli National Trail Project. TI. ..I..I .i .. National
Trail covers the entire island of Dominica and has 14 segments, numbered from
south to north. When completed the trail system will be about 115 miles long. Some
segments are on roads and others are on paths through the forest. The trail will link
many tracks and trails which were first cut by the Kalinago Carib people, as well as
routes used by slaves to access sugar plantations hundreds of years ago. The trail
system is being developed through a project of the Government of the Commonwealth
of Dominica implemented in partnership with the I .. .. .1 )uncil of Martinique
and funded by the European Union. Waitukubuli :.. ...- I ... is her body" -the
Carib name for Dominica.
The trail starts as a two-tire-wide track and rapidly becomes a one-track trail. In
March of 2010 the trail was in very good condition because it had been cleared in
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E-irai: saws r/ i1 Wwnamm fTr e0ten1 Ma (Soon at Cafmelo's MaWina at the beach)
December 2009. The first section of the trail ascends for about one hour through
undisturbed rainforest. Large trees tower over the trail providing shade. There were
many mango trees along the trail and it was terribly frustrating that all of the man
gos were beyond our reach. The half-eaten fruit on the ground served testament to
the bounty of ripe fruit above our heads.
It took us about an hour to get to a corner where the trail levels off i .I i .
you a view looking north -on a clear day you can see Guadeloupe ........
that the trail had been a wagon trail for horses or donkeys taking sugar, fruit and
coffee out of the plantations and down to market. Along the way there are trail mark
ers painted with red paint on trees. It is not clear how the sub-segments were deter
mined, but we did see them periodically. The markings noted the trail system seg
ment (13) with a sub-segment (e.g. SEG 13/14).
The trail continues through the forest and tall trees with a few openings to provide
views. At SEG 13/17 the trail makes a turn to the right, and there is a very clear
trail that goes more or less straight, 1" .... freshly cleared field. If you take this
diversion off the trail and through th( I I I will end up in an old citrus and cof
fee plantation. My frustration at not being able to reach the mangos was abated by
the plentiful grapefruits. We filled our bellies and backpacks with grapefruit and
sour oranges and doubled back to the main trail.
As the trail continues it follows the contour of the hillside. The last third of the hike is
through cultivated hillsides where you can see just about every fr-; t .. ---t .1-
see in the local market at Portsmouth. We chatted with a few men ,, I,,. I I I I.
one fellow offered to sell us plantains. We were a bit reluctant to add more weight to our
citrus filled daypacks, but we dug out a few EC coins and tucked away our plantains.
We were greeted at the trail's end by a few men who were building a small fiber
glass fishing boat. There was a water spigot where we washed up a bit. The men told
us not to go the three-quarters of a mile to Pennville to catch the bus, but to just flag
down any bus or truck going west. We flagged down an empty school bus and got a
ride back to Portsmouth.
r -'- - i
Directions for Hike
from Capuchin to Pennville ax
I The entire distance of the hike is
S about five miles and will take about
| / .. -- three to four hours depending on |
I .,' To start, take the bus to Capuchin. I
You can get the bus at the bus "sta
/ tion" in Portsmouth or just start I
walking toward the town ofTanetane
S\ ) and flag down a bus going to
I Capuchin. There are more buses in
'r. n /the early morning when the chil
I \ tac dren are going to school. Ask the
driver to let you off at the trailhead
| k |hi
n thc North E nd ofDomid J have to walk the last quarter mile
cbr, because the trailhead is at the end
p .,. lTH of the road, past the village of
I 'Tow Capuchin and the buses don't usu-
p . .. ally go quite that far.
eI v i The trailhead is marked with a
large sign stating that the trail is
ISegment 13 of the Waitukubuli National Trail Project. There are trail markers
painted on trees with red paint that have the segment and sub-segment, for
Example SEG 13/14. The only point on the trail that was confusing was at the
trail marker that noted SEG 13/17. At this point the trail makes a turn to the
: 1. but there is a very clear trail that goes more or less straight, 1i ....
:I 1.1 cleared field. If you take the diversion to go off the trail through! I1. I
you will end up in an old citrus and coffee plantation and will have to double
Back to the trail.
The trail ends on the road between Pennville and Portsmouth about one mile
west of Pennville. You can catch a bus or hitch a ride back for the five miles to
^jAn i r
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by Stephen Aspey
Is it not strange that sheep's guts
should hale souls out of men's bodies?
-i. .. ..... ii. said something similar about oil drums had steel pan
.. ... i i ,, iI ... n June 5th, visiting cruisers were treated to a wonder
ful night at a steel pan yard in St. James, Trinidad, courtesy of a number of the local
busines- *. *i,. .......... and avery ,i .11 ... 1, .. 1. idby all.
The "p ..-. .1 1 -- ..- eventwas ,,,, i .. I.. I i . Starlift Junior Steel
Orchestra to attend the 2010 Montreal International Steel Pan Festival. Carlos
Fenton, of Alpha Upholstery and Canvas, garnered donations from several of the busi
nesses in Chaguaramas in order to purchase tickets and Jesse James, of Members
Only Maxi Taxi & Tours kindly provided free transport to and from the event.
Cruisers gathered outside the office of Members Only in Tropical Marina to receive
their free tickets from Carlos. Many cruisers know Trinidad as a _; .t lace to haul
out and get work done on their boat but Trinidad has much more 11 from dense
tropical jungle, unspoilt beaches and great local foods to the world famous Carnival
and, of course, great music. I've been to Trinidad many times but this was going to
be my first time at a pan yard.
If you haven't heard a good steel pan
band then you can't begin to appreci
ate the incredible sound that a skill
fully tuned and played steel pan can
make. The Starlift Junior Steel
Orchestra is made up of bn---.r
from ages eight to 16 and
them is an artist. To see these talent
ed kids, so full of energy, team spirit
and love of their music, was to share
in the real heart of Trinidad.
The evening was supported by some
of Trinidad & Tobago's best music
cians, including solo artist Marilyn
Williams; the world famous Lydian
Choir; 3 Canal with their spectacular
Rapso style, and the award winning
BP Renegades Youth Orchestra who
were, quite simply, brilliant These world class musicians donated their time to help
support te fundraising effort and the audience was treated to a variety of styles
including soca, vintage kaiso, and folk.
Steel pan was invented in Trinidad and evolved from tamboo bamboos, being tune
able sticks made from bamboo. These were hit onto the ground or with other sticks
to create rhythms deeply rooted in the drumming traditions of both Africa and India.
It wasn't until the late 1940s that te recognizable steel pan, made from a 55 gallon
oil drum, came into being.
Since then, new methods of construction and most importantly, tuning, have
evolved and modern instruments are custom made from sheet steel and tuned using
strobe tuners, an art form in its own right The pan r family comes in many pitches
including soprano, alto, tenor, baritone and bass and this combination gives the
The evening kicked off with the Starlift Junior band l.ese.i- a variety of pieces,
"Thriller", showing off the versatility of the instrument.
Next up were Salah and Adiylah Wilson, both native Trinidadians, who have been based
in Montreal, Canada, for the past 35 years They have been at te forefront of intema
lonal steel pan for manyyears and ar being. .) at the international festival.
Marilyn Williams treated us to a I 1 .. iI of her vibrant personality and
powerful singing voice that lifted us out of our chairs The Lydian Choir's beautiful
and heartfelt performance was a joy to share. Perhaps the most surprising sound,
however, came from 3 Canal, with their exotic blend of lyrics and dance known as
rapso. It is rare to hear a completely unique musical style for the first time and 3
Canal's energetic and rhythmic performance had us all tapping our feet. Rapso is
another uniquely Trinidadian musical tradition and has been described as "de power
of de word in the riddum of de world". If you get the chance to see these talented
guys, jump at it.
Every performance was excellent and the variety of styles on display was a wonder
ful expression of the unique musical traditions of Trinidad. All the cruisers were
delighted wit the event and especially grateful to the local businesses in
Chaguaramas for donating the tickets and transport, and giving us a truly memo
rable .,,- 1 ,I -.1 -1 W .. d. .... 1.,
PS 71 -. .'i,. -...... -, -. i. ',. .... ,. i I inJuniorPanoramaandsecond
place in Adult Panorama (despite being juniors) at the 2010 Motreal International
Steel Pan Festival.
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Spreading the Music
of the Islands
by J. Wynner
"Hot Pants. What a name!" I thought as I listened to Anna Malm tell me about a
steelband she and her husband, Krister, formed in their native Sweden in the early
1970s. Anna must have observed my quizzical look when I repeated "Hot Pants?"
She quickly replied, "Hot Pans, no T, no T. Hot Pans! It is a mostly female band, which
ranges in ages from seventeen to seventy. I am the eldest," she added with a laugh.
In case you're
steelbands have to .
do with a nautical
the story is really
about a seafaring
love for, and record
ing of, the music of
the islands in
particular the music
of Trinidad &
Tobago. Krister and
Anna Malm have
been sailing the a
Caribbean waters -
for more than 40 L -
years. They came to I i
Trinidad for the first r ,
time via a stop and
which took three
years: they sailed
across the North Sea to Scotland, then down to Cork in Ireland, then across to
Spain and along the Spanish and Portuguese coasts. "Then we sailed into the
Mediterranean all the way to Greece. So you can imagine that took some time,
before we got here," says Krister.
The second time out, the trip took three months sailing first to southern Portugal
then to Madeira, across to the Canary Islands and then, with the wind at their backs,
nosing it down to the Caribbean, docking in St Lucia before sailing to Trinidad.
Now, they fly to and fro. After the Trinidad Carnival season they go sailing up
island returning to Trinidad and then winging their way back home, usually at the
end of March or early April, leaving their present vessel, Kaiso, at Chaguaramas.
When we first arrived in 1969 in Trinidad on our small sailing boat, Krister, who
is a musicologist and had been in the Caribbean documenting i a iee .....sic
in all the islands, was asked to stay on by Dr. Elder, a pro e.., '" I i1l a I of
Trinidad and Tobago. Dr Elder was commissioned to set up a music archive," relates
Anna, a microbiologist by profession, who also has a musical side to her. "I have
always been into music, but not professionally."
Anna was also asked to stay on, in the capac't f ist 1 1 i :t T. -oidad had
to test the safety of foods. Anna explains, I was also asked to run the laboratory
since the person who was sent to study food microbiology gave up and there was no
one to take care of it. So itjust happened. We did not plan to stay here. It just hap
opened that both of us were asked to stay and do some work here."
When their Trinidadian born son was christened, Boulerd in a hI pt to call him
Eric, after uncles of both Krister and Anna, and also I I ', I. .. Minister, Eric
Williams. Also, Eric is a name common both in Sweden and Trinidad. Eric Maim,
who personally knows most of the calypsonians including the Mighty Sparrow and
Lord Nelson, like his parents has been very involved with the culture of T&T and was
recently given an award by Trinidad & Tobago High Commission in London for pro
moving T& Ts culture.
Since their initial twoyear stint in Trinidad, the Maims have been coming regu
larly to Trinidad where they have participated enjoyably in T&Ts culture, plunging
themselves into the music of the land and, as the locals say, beingg pan" for
J'ouvert with bands such as Birdsong, Merry Makers, Brimblers, Harvard Harps,
and, of course, Anna and Krister's band, Hot Pans, which they brought to te island
for 2009 Carnival.
When they returned to Sweden in 1971 after the first visit, tey took a steel pan
back with them. Although Anna had soe guest performances playing her clarinet
in a T&T calypso tent wth Art de Couteau's band, since very few women played pan
in those days Anna needed time to learn the steel pan. So she waited until tey
returned home to really get into it.
In Trinidad tey had been living in Cipriani Boulevard in a house which backed
the Silver Stars' pan yard, so the sound of te steel pans were quite familiar to tem
"We could hear the pans every night We could not hear te radio but we heard Silver
Stars," says Anna. Krister takes up the beat: "In Sweden, when we returned I start
ed to work with the Swedish Government Concert Bureau I took a steelband on a
tour of Sweden with a mixture of members from different bands They toured and we
called them Merry Makers. But it was not the old Merry Makers, it was the new one.
Anyway, four of them came without their pans, so they made the pans in Sweden".
When te Trinidadians left after the tour, Anna and Krister started a band with te
pans that were left behind. One Trinidadian who lived in Sweden at the time was
pannist Rudy "Twoleft" Smith, a well known jazz musician on the pan. "He never
played in the band but he was important in guiding the band," says Anna. "At first
it was only Swedish players. Gradually some Trinidadians residing in Sweden joined
and eventually some other Europeans. And so Hot Pans was created. Since then Hot
Pans steelband has been on the Swedish music scene, regularly performing at dif
ferent functions and parties." They are also passing on their steel pan skills and
knowledge in schools and communities. After Hot Pans came the offspring: Cool
Pans, Sweet Pans and Taxi Stand, which are just some of the steel pan bands
acquainting Sweden with one of the indigenous art forms of Trinidad & Tobago.
Visit Anna and Krister's website at www.kaiso.se. For more information about Hot
Parish visit www.hotpans.se.
Above: Capital Signal provided a barge and tugboat, which transported the collected garbage
to be disposed of properly
Below: Somebody hasn't yet got the simple message: 'You bring it, you take it!'
Continued from page 13 ...Eco News
Shane and Paula Ferreira and their two young sons,
along with Christian and Willie Locke of Fun Now,
linked up with Sean and Cindy O'Conner of Elbow
Room to clean up the first two bays by collecting more
than 50 jumbo garbage bags of garbage. On the east
ern side by the concrete jetty in the bay, Mike Hatch
and friends on another yacht cleaned up the area and
also collected a big pile of garbage.
This "down the islands" clean-up effort was greatly
assisted by Barry "Bim" Rostant of Capital Signal who
provided a barge and a tugboat, which collected and
transported all the garbage to be disposed of properly.
RETIRED HURRICANE NAMES PUZZLE
On June 26th, Gregory Maxwell and some
friends went to Chacachacare and collected
more than 30 bags of garbage. The following
day, the Trinidad & Tobago Yacht Club
Commodore, Chris Kelshall, and a group of
friends also went to Chacachacare to clean
and beautify the bay.
These individuals, as well as the thou
sands of others that assisted in the nation
wide clean-up campaign, should be
thanked for their efforts in making our
environment cleaner and more enjoyable
to use for all of us!
Unfortunately there are persons who con
tinue to litter our beautiful country, which
makes these efforts useless unless they are
sustained. Therefore, the plan is to have
these clean-up exercises every quarter, but
volunteers are needed in order to make them
a success. So come lend a hand when that
time comes around next time!
Natural/Recycled Crafts Key to
Venezuelan River Community
Members of the Venezuelan environment
tal NGO Fundaci6n La Tortuga (FLT) have
visited the state of Delta Amacuro for the
fourth time to further an ambitious project
in support of the indigenous communities
of this freshwater environment. These visits
to Delta Amacuro form part of a community
development project undertaken by
Fundacion La Tortuga, with the help of
anthropologist and professor Ronny
Velasquez, with the consciousness that
people are part of the marine and freshwa
ter environment. On this trip, Chelo
Nogueira, vice president of FLT, Yadersy
Wetter and Manuel Fernandez represented
The primary goal of this trip was to pro
FULL SERVICE BOATYARD
FULL SERVICE BOATYARD B ot
N 7"-M= d '*11 kindO
mote traditional handicrafts, while raising awareness
of controlling waste and preserving the rivers. The
FLT's destination this time was 11, .1i of Volcan,
located in the Juan Millan ...-1. I Municipio
Tucupita, where they learned more about the interest
ing culture of the indigenous Warao. Many cruisers
have visited the Orinoco River delta, located in Delta
Amacuro, and meeting Warao people is always a high
light of their experience.
The FLT visit resulted in an alliance of mutual col
laboration with the Warao communities, who excel in
the making of high-quality containers, water bottles,
bags, jewelry and other items from natural materials,
plus other crafts that include recycled man-made
materials. Dynamic working relationships were devel
oped that will encourage and support the artisans'
activity, and at the same time promote the use of sus
tainable natural materials and the recycling of many of
the modern materials most often used in the area.
During the expedition, FLT members realized the
keen awareness the inhabitants of Volcan have for the
benefits of their natural resources, and planned a
strategy for future visits to explore the use of more
recyclable materials that are used in this area, and
develop environmental programs to make production
The Warao of the Orinoco River delta produce
sustainable handicrafts from both natural materials
and recycled man made materials
Unmatched power-to-weight ratio
contributes to impressive fuel
efficiency and speed,
Exclusive direct injected system
delivers better fuel economy than
even most four-strokes.
More stainless steel translates into
saltwater durability, longer maintenance
intervals and lower cost of ownership.
Consistently ranks first in its class
0 IMUM POWER.ll~
, in holeshot mid-range acceleration
' C .J and top-end speed.
SV T T T few anchorage options available in Trinidad, I would say
Scotland Bay beats all other anchorages hands down.
WU H Right from the entrance of Trinidad at the Boca, Scotland
Bay is like a siren calling out to me. From the outside almost all I can see are the
rocky sides of the mountains, which I always think are like a fort for the bay. They
surround and protect the bay from anybody coming from the sea, as an intruder can
be seen from miles away yet all he can see are the mountains. The bay is surround
ed by mountains on three sides and thus very peaceful and calm. When arriving in
Trinidad I always feel like just skipping th- -1- rin;; i-n rcess and just anchoring
in my favorite place. That not being an 1 1. .. I ' I I still feel Scotland Bay
pulling me even as I pass by on my way to Customs and Immigration at Chaguaramas.
It just has that effect on me.
For one thing, Scotland Bay is a sight to behold -so full of natural beauty and
grace. Also I .. i..tr ;;- 1 1y the amount of life that goes on in there. The forest is
thick and the ...... I '11 howler monkeys is a testament that wildlife
sure exists in the mountains! At first I felt scared because they sound
so aggressive but after a while I became used to it and now I see
it as a phenomenon unique to Scotland Bay. I never did see any
one of them, but their roaring reminds me they are there.
I love to wake up to birds chirping in the morning. There
is something about the music created by birds that fills
one with joy and hope for the day. Waking up to green
mountains surrounding me, birds chirping in the trees
.-1 .1-*lr----7- r-;ri:. in the forest, and with the ocean
I . 1 .' ,i,. hom e bliss.
i i... -i. i. s all around, the water is a beautiful
-. i .....tead of the usual blue. It is very
I i. -,,. i- .. here, as the water is always cool. i .
Every now and then I get a glimpse of a turtle or some
other unique sea creature.
At night the bay is just as full of life. There are bats flying a I
over the water surface. Hundreds of them come from their d .
time hiding place to feed on fish and every now and I hear 1. ...
hitting the surface of the water. At times I put fruits on the dck, I
was shown how to by a friend; the bats are attracted by the scent and come
to dine. Also to be seen are the fireflies popping in and out of the forest. When I first
came here I was almost convinced there were campers up the mountains as the fire
flies can be so numerous at times, to the point they look like lanterr- 1-;;rn;n. fr-
afar. During nights full of stars I lie out on the deck and just get a I I I ,,.
The amount of nature coming together in Scotland Bay is always amazing for me.
There is a trail going up the mountain and many a sailor has hiked up -pl-rin
the depths of the forest, but I have never been there. It is so thick that I I .
of getting lost in the closely-knit trees, and sometimes there are landslides. Looking
at the mountains and breathing in the mountain breeze does it for me. In any case,
I have come to learn that it is illegal to hike in these mountains, probably because
the coast guard has bases in the area.
Without the option of hiking in the forest, I choose to take 1,,. 1. 1 along the
coastline instead '11 .l-;n th. -hore and in some places at II. i. I the moun
tains, there are : ...- I I ... '....- or constructions left behind by American soldiers
Left: Small scattered beaches where I can just put up a hammock between two
strong trees and enjoy a book
Above: Ruins and blooming trees
Below left: Waking up to green mountains surrounding me, and ocean water under
my floating home -bliss
who occupied Scotland Bay around the time of World War II. I was fascinated by all
the ruins left behind and, on doing some research, discovered that Scotland Bay was
a recreation center for Americans during their occupation of Chaguaramas. There
was a football field and courts for both tennis and basketball (not that it is possible
to tell that from what remains). The bay also exhibits ruins of an old zoo, which was
known as the Bronx Zoo, also an American construction. The zoo :... 1. i 1 .... the
population of monkeys in the forest, but that is just my guess. Bt II .1 1 the
case that might mean other, more silent, animals roaming around -all the more
reason for me to admire the forest strictly from the edges!
Along the coastline there are more kinds of ruins. Some are parts of
walls, others are supporting structures or stairs leading into the
mountains. Every now and then it is possible to see a house
that looks :.i .1 i 1 .. ..1 i 1 At the edge of the first moun-
tain cliff l ... ., I 4ide, there is a structure that
looks like a house that I always guess was used as a stake-
out place where anybody approaching the island could be
seen from miles away. Some sailors who have visited
Some of the ruins choose to have themselves remem-
"" bered by informing anybody going there after them that
they were there before, through writing things such as
S"Vl-i;- from the North was here" and a date. It is fasci
i. i.... I me to think of those people who once lived or
visited these places before me. I try to wonder what
I)ecame of them or how much farther they have traveled.
Si. ..... .....,. feature at Scotland Bay are the seaside
S. I. .. i .... I at the base of rocky mountains on the
.I i Scotland Bay that borders the unprotected ocean waters.
i Icy 4c
water hits the rocks with enormous force and then is swallowed by the
mouth of the cave. Exploring them can be dangerous, too, because the waves can be
so strong as to push the dinghy against the rocks or, worse, into the caves. I have
never tried to explore the caves and have no intention of ever -l-;;n it althoughh some
of the caves are high enough for a person to walk through. 11 Ii ...I the moun
tains they go or what they hide inside them I don't know. Like the forested moun
tains, I refer to just behold them from the outside.
Even the "tame" activities at Scotland Bay are not all bliss. Anyone taking dinghy
rides along the coastline has to be wary of hidden underwater ruins that have sharp
edges and can be very damaging to a dinghy engine or the inflatable dinghy mate
rial. Anyone -hnn-ing t- nralk on the small scattered beaches has to be very careful
as there are II I i i pieces of glass lying in the shallow water or in the sand,
waiting for your unsuspecting feet. I always take it upon myself to collect those I can
and discard them in places least likely to be stepped on, but there is always one more
out there. There can also be lots of litter among the trees. The local population used
to camp or picnic here and much of the rubbish as well as alcohol bottles were left
behind. That can be a disappointment.
With so many trees growing here, it is inevitable that there are some poisonous
ones but not to worry, the relevant government institution has placards warning
against touching or eating from the poisonous trees such as manchineel. My kudos
The pleasures here are simple. Mostly I just resort to swimming from the boat. If I
want to be closer to land, I just put up a hammock between two strong trees and
enjoy a book and whatever else is on offer from Mother Nature.
Scotland Bay may be a small part of a big island, hidden away in a corner, but it
sure has a lot to offer. It is definitely a place to visit if you are in Trinidad. I so enjoy
the place that one time when I anchored there I decided to bake a cake, just to cel
ebrate all the combined forces of nature here and its magnificent beauty. It is defi
nitely a good reason to add some calories into the body: celebrating beautiful
Scotland Bay. So little yet so, so much.
Note: Foreign-flagged boats must let Trinidad & Tobago Customs know if they are
movingfrom their port of entry to any other anchorage in T&T. Customs will give them
permission to go and they must report to Customs when they return. The reason for
this regulation, unique among Eastern Caribbean islands, is Trinidad's close proximity
to SouthAmerica, requiring law enforcement agencies to be more vigilant. The Customs
officer in charge in Chaguaramas, says it's a quick and easy procedure to let Customs
know of an intended movement, and there is a place on the back of the Customs form
where the Customs records such movements. Yachts are not allowed to clear out for a
j i . i i i I 1.1 for the night, orstopinScotland Bay before
,. . . h .. ,. ...
CARIBBEAN MARITIME HISTORY
A anyone who has spent time on Carriacou knows that this Grenadine island
Shas a rich culture unlike any other place on Earth: Big Drum, Quadrille
music and dance, Carnival and Shakespeare Mas. But few know of
Sarriacou's rich pre-Columbian Amerindian culture: a thriving and flour
fishing culture which lasted for more than 1,300 years.
The first professional 1r-7--l-.i 1- t- visit Carriacou were from the Smithsonian
Institute, in 1904. The -.. I I. .. research concluded that Carriacou had
among the finest West Indies ware that has yet come to the Smithsonian Institute"
(Jesse Fewkes). Since the 1960s, a few archeologists have worked sporadically on
Carriacou. Only recently have larger roh--l-" t mnms come here to understand in
more detail the lives and societies ol 'I ... .. .- pre-Columbian peoples who
inhabited Kayryouacou ("Island of Many
Reefs") as they called it.
Nearly every summer since 2003, an
archeology team comprising approximately
25 students, led by Scott Fitzpatrick of E X
North Carolina State University, Quetta E X
Kaye from University College London, and
Michiel Kappers at In-Terris Site Technics
in the Netherlands, have come for five- to .ARiI
six-week periods, to excavate among the
dozen or so known Amerindian settlement
sites on the island, most of which date back
to as early as AD 300 and up to European A M
contact in the early 17th century
For two weeks this past May, Scott and P
Michiel were in the Grenadines. They
spent a few days mapping the excavated
site on Grand Bay. They also went to
Mustique and to Union Island's Chatham
Bay and other sites on Union Island to do
exploratory digs for future excavations.
My wife, Karan, and I were fortunate
enough to be able to spend a few days
with them on Carriacou and Union Island,
helping them excavate and sift earth,
.r-Thi; f-r r-mains of the Grenadines'
Scott and Michiel told me that when the -
team first began excavating on Carriacou
seven years ago, many Carriacouans were
suspicious of them. For hundreds of
years, there have been stories about
pirate treasure buried on the island. In
the minds of some Carriacouans, why
would a large group of foreigners bring
expensive equipment and pay the govern
ment to dig, if not for buried treasure?
Though the team has yet to find any gold
doubloons, the archeologists have found
buried treasures far greater than any
pirate's gold. Buried beneath the bank
just off Grand Bay is the richest archeol
ogy site either Scott and Michiel have
excavated in their nearly 20 years of digs
throughout the world. Through carbon l
dating, the team has proven that this site
was a continually active village of 100 to
200 inhabitants for 1,300 years. When I t -
asked why Amerindians settled on the Ir
windward side of the island instead of the -. ... .
calm leeward shore, the answer I received i .
was because of the wind. Mosquitoes can- "- 4
not live in windy areas, and smoke from
cook fires blows away. Almost all
Amerindians settled on the windward side
of the islands for these very reasons.
But who were these ancient ones who
inhabited Carriacou's shores? There are a The Amerindias ofthe Antilles were pe
lot of different theories about the peoples along with pottery, tools made from cone
who inhabited the islands of the Antilles: of Many Reefs'
many peoples of different language sub
groups and tribes, such as Arawak, Carib
and Taino. I could spend this article dis
... ... each tribe, and who displaced whom, but this is not an anthro
i i brevity's sake, I am going to lump all of these subgroups
together into one people, Amerindian.
According to Scott and Michiel, the oldest human remains in the Antilles are on
Trinidad and date back 8,000 years. Though an island today, 8,000 years ago
Trinidad was still likely joined to the South American continent. This was due to the
last Ice Age, which, although past its end by then, still created a sea level lower than
what we have today. This meant these people migrated to what is today the island of
Trinidad by land and not by sea.
The next oldest human remains in the Antilles are found on the Greater Antilles
islands of Cuba and Hispaniola, and date back 4,000 years. Archeologists are not
sure if these peoples migrated from present-day Florida and the Yucatan Peninsula,
or north from the Orinoco River Valley in Venezuela. Scott believes it is very possible
that these peoples migrated from South America. Being highly skilled sailors with
large well-crafted canoes, using the northwest currents and the tradewinds to carry
them, they could have made the nearly 1,000-mile journey in a few short weeks. (For
you sailors who want to know about the Amerindians' boats, we'll get to it after a
little more history.)
Many believe that, beginning in the fourth century AD and until 11. ....... of the
Europeans in the late 15th century, there was a semi-continuous :..... .1. I differ
ent Amerindian peoples from the Orinoco River Valley throughout the Antilles. The
majority of the new migrants were integrated into the pre-existing Amerindian island
groups. Yet, all agree that there were Amerindian warrior tribes, such as the Caribs,
who made war against established Amerindian islanders, killing the men and taking
the women as wives. Simply put, for 8,000 years the Amerindians were the primary,
if not the sole inhabitants of the Antilles, until the Europeans arrived in 1492.
Now that we've finished our very brief 8,000-year history of the Amerindians of the
Antilles, the Compass being the Compass, it's time to talk about the Amerindians'
seamanship and .1 i i... I,
The Amerindiar.- 1. 111 -I were people of the sea. They were highly skilled
shipwrights, sailors, navigators and fishermen. The Amerindians sailed these waters
in large dugout canoes made primarily from gommier trees (Dacryodes excelsa. The
Amerindians, with only stone tools, toppled the tall, broad gommier trees by ringing
the base of the trees with their stone axes then burning contained fires at the ringed
bases until the trees fell. After they removed the trees' bark, they dug out the huge
solid trunks by controlled fires and stone tools such as the adze. Once the trunks
had been gouged out, they were stretched open using a combination of water, hot
stones, and wooden wedges of different
lengths to widen the canoes in the middle
and taper them down to pointed ends.
After this process had been completed,
the hull shape was preserved by the
IR IN G canoes being buried in damp sand to cure
before being dried in the sun.
S T 9 The canoes were of two kinds. The
c3 smaller coulianas were no more than 20
feet long and pointed at both ends. They
TDI A N .were primarily for inshore fishing and for
making short trips along the coast. The
bigger craft, the canouas, could be more
than 50 feet in length, and were capable of
carrying 70 to 80 people. Though paddles
were primarily used to propel the canoes,
sails made of woven leaves of the moriche
by Jack Russell palm were sometimes also used, espe
cially for long journeys.
Amerindians were excellent seamen,
who knew the location of the islands by
heart, and had their own means of navi
gating in the open sea using the stars.
They sailed the open seas to distant
islands, sometimes for settlement, some
times for war, and many times for trade;
for, like almost all peoples throughout the
world, the Amerindians were traders,
trading throughout the islands and
beyond such things as cloth, tools, tobac
co, weapons, and, from islands such as
Christopher Columbus wrote concern
ing the Amerindians' boats in his journal
Each of these islands had a great num
ber of canoes, built of solid wood, narrow
and not unlike our double banked boats in
length and shape, but swifter in their
motion; they steer them only by the oar.
These canoes are of various sizes, but the
greater number are constructed with eight
teen banks of oars, and with these they
cross to the other islands, which are of
countless number, to carry on traffic with
tt the people. I saw some of these canoes
That held as many as seventy eight row-
u" e .ts iers. In all these islands there is no differ
ence of physiognomy, of manners, or of
language, but they all clearly understand
S.. each other...
.6 After our few days of archeological
excavation with Scott and Michiel on
Union Island, Karan and I being non
yachties, took the Jasper back to
Carriacou. When we docked and stepped
onto the jetty, we saw anchored just off
of the sea. Here, researchers examine, Hillsborough's shore an incredibly long
id other seashells found on 'the Island wooden dugout canoe. Not far from the
canoe was a very large catamaran. The
deck of the catamaran was filled with 30
to 40 people, all in yellow life vests, jump
ing up and down, shouting chants, and
lifting wooden paddles high into the air. After the chants were chanted, the bolster
ous bunch got into dinghies and motored to the shore where the now beached
dugout canoe awaited them.
They were French, I was told. They were paddling in an exact replica of an authen
tic Amerindian canoe up to Martinique; for like all islands of the Antilles, Martinique
has a rich Amerindian history. The canoe crew had started the day before from
Grenada and were on their way to Union Island where they would spend the night.
After a week of ,.... ... .... I. ... ... .... and studying these ancient people, I
was so envious I I, ,I I I ... .... 1.... frnoe crew. I asked a leader of the crew
if I could meet them in Union and join up. But alas there was no room in the canoe.
I watched the modern voyagers, 30 or more women and men, shoulder to shoulder,
paddle past the jetty out into the bay, I i '.'.' .1 .I '. ....... i. .... anoe housed
in the Carriacou Museum. The canoe b. Ii .. .. I I i .... I I. .11i the sand not
far from the Grand Bay site. The museum's written description inside the 20 foot
canoe reads, "This size of canoe would have held 9 12 people and would originally
have been paddled from the Orinoco River in Venezuela." Unlike the modern thrill
seeking canoeists with their huge chartered catamaran following behind them to
make sure all went well, the dozen or so ancient Amerindi.n -- .y ---1ulI have
been crammed together tighter than tight, with all their .1 I - --. .. in a
canoe no bigger than my mess around aluminum canoe back home... All I can say
about the Amerindians who sailed and settled on Carriacou and the islands through
out the Antilles is: they sure were some tough SOBs.
Iff .... .. i l, .. ... .r ... 1. , ... - ,i r lend
you can receive information at www.in terris.com, or you can e mail Michiel at
I CAR NIIBBEA'.I'~NI n MAFRlI '.n'iTME HIS'TORY"^0
US Navy Pirate Hunter:
THEl ~ - -
by Victor Parachin
From the time the Spanish discovered a new world
and began transporting gold, silver, pearls and other
treasures from Latin America, pirates were not far
behind. Beginning in the mid 1550s and extending over
the next two and a half centuries, ships traveling in the
Caribbean Sea were vulnerable to pirate attacks. The
period from 1815 to 1820 was a time of unusually
severe disruption due to a wave of piracy. In 1820
alone, 27 American ships were attacked and plundered.
Because the ships were insured, the high losses forced
insurance companies to sharply raise premiums. As
losses mounted, ship owners and insurance companies
along with American politicians demanded that effect
tive action be taken to stem the tide of piracy.
Responding in 1821, President Monroe authorized
the US Navy to establish an anti-pirate squadron to rid
the Caribbean of piracy. The most logical person to
lead this new and unique unit was Navy Captain David
Porter who was already regarded as a naval hero. Born
at Boston, Massachusetts, on February 1st, 1780,
Porter entered the US Navy as a midshipman in 1798.
He was engaged in military action against France and
fought in the Tripolitan War against the pirate states
of North Africa. In fact, Porter became a prisoner of
war when the USS Philadelphia was captured off
Tripoli in October 1803.
Upon release in 1805, Porter commanded the USS
Enterprise and was later placed in charge of naval
forces at New Orleans, Louisiana. His claim to fame
came -lIrni;- the war of 1812 when he conducted a
highly 11 i. series of attacks on British ships. In
July of that year, the US issued a declaration of war
against the British. Porter assumed command of the
32-gun frigate Essex, and first sailed from New York
toward Nova Scotia and Newfoundland where he sub
sequently captured several ships. In October of 1812,
Porter and the Essex sailed into South American
waters --n-li;; r'Ape Horn into the Pacific, making
the Ess 1. i..-1 American warship to reach that
ocean. There he continued skirmishing with British
ships. On March 28th, 1814, a sudden and fierce
storm damaged the Essex.
Unfortunately for Porter and his crew, British Captain
James Hillyar of the Phoebe discovered the Essex and
attacked. The battle lasted two hours during which
time the Essex was pounded by Hillyar's cannons.
When it became clear that his ship was doomed, Porter
tried to run her aground in order to burn the ship.
However, winds kept pushing the Essex out to sea.
According to Porter, Hillyar's "shot never missed our
hull, and my ship was cut up in a manner which was
perhaps never before witnessed. I saw no hopes of sav
ing her and, at 20 minutes past six p.m. gave the pain
ful order to strike colors." The Essex lost 58 men killed,
31 missing and 66 injured out of a total crew of 255.
Porter was forced to surrender but not before declar
ing, 'We have been unfortunate but not disgraced."
Even though he was a blight to the British, they had
considerable respect for his skills as a naval officer and
military strategist. Consequently, Porter was promptly
paroled and sent to New York on the condition he
would no i..1 i.. .... the British.
Returnir. .-I .....i DC as a highly popular
war hero, Porter was made a member of the newly
constituted Board of Navy Commissioners, a high-level
advisory board to the US Navy Secretary. An authentic
seaman, Porter became restless ashore and requested
some kind of sea duty again. That is when he was
selected to lead a Navy unit specifically formed to fight
pirates. Stationed at Key West off the southern tip of
Florida, Porter, at 42 years of age, was commanding
the largest peacetime collection of US Navy ships
which had ever been assembled.
That US Naval force became known as "The Mosquito
Fleet" because it utilized small and shallow-draft
ships. These smaller boats could travel more rapidly
chasing pirate ships into shallow waters. His fleet
comprised 16 vessels made up of naval brigs, con
verted Baltimore schooners, a paddle steamer and one
decoy merchant ship completely armed with hidden
guns. Key West was chosen because of its proximity to
pirate waters. The island was known as Thompson's
Island and, under Porter's command, the island soon
had one of the most active naval bases in the United
States. The name, "Mosquito Fleet," held another
meaning for the sailors serving under Captain Porter
because the insects carried yellow fever and malaria.
Before long, the island's naval hospital was filled with
sailors experiencing high fevers.
Porter's orders were simple and direct: to suppress
and eradicate piracy, end the pirates' slave trading,
protect the commerce of US business interests, main
tain security for citizens traveling in the Caribbean,
and provide safe passage when necessary. Although
the orders were simple, the mission was complex
because pirates were plentiful and the numerous
islands of the Caribbean provided pirates with ample
Nevertheless, Porter and his sailors fiercely and fero
ciously attacked pirate ships wherever they found
them. His fleet scoured the entire Caribbean, the
Bahamas and the Gulf of Mexico. Porter targeted
pirate bases in Puerto Rico, Mexico, Cuba and the
Florida Keys. Wherever pirate ships and bases were
discovered, they were destroyed. Cuba presented a
unique challenge for Porter because the Spanish
resented any American presence and often looked the
other way when pirates attacked ships. As Porter's
successes expanded, even Spanish merchants saw the
advantages of a sea without pirates. Those merchants
encouraged Cuban authorities to support Porter in his
With increasing support from home and abroad,
Porter's successes grew. One of the most notable was
the defeat of a notorious Cuban pirate named Diabolito
or Little Devil. Porter's forces surprised Diabolito and
his pirates off the northern coast of Cuba, forcing
them to abandon their ship and hide in the land.
Without a ship, their piracy was effectively over.
As head of the anti-pirate squad, Porter often had to
walk a diplomatic tightrope, which he managed quite
well. However, he experienced one disastrous diplo
matic blunder. It took place at Farjardo, Puerto Rico,
in November 1824. Spanish authorities arrested one of
Porter's officers who was surveying the island for pirate
activity. Incensed, Porter immediately dispatched 200
armed naval sailors into the town, i "... i 1... r ,-mal
apology. Although he did receive a i .....1 .I i his
armed excursion onto Spanish territory resulted in
objections from Spain. As a result, Porter's detractors
in the Navy Department used the event as a pretext to
dishonor him. Convening a military tribunal, Porter
was court-martialed in 1825 and received a six-month
suspension from duty. The sentence so .. i i I
that he resigned his commission and I 'I, i
States for Mexico where he was welcomed and made
commander-in-chief of the Mexican Navy. Mexico
needed his services because the country was engaged
in a war of independence from Spain.
Porter led the Mexican Navy for three years and then
returned to the United States in 1829. Upon his
return, President Andrew Jackson made him consul
general i 1i Ten years later, in 1839, Porter was
made L i....-i to Turkey at Constantinople. He
died of yellow fever while serving in that capacity on
March 3rd, 1843.
... ... i i ,, i aps none were as
gr .1 .- i..- . .i i I ... the waters of the
Caribbean. Porter's work effectively ended the careers
of famous pirates such as Diabolito, Charles Gibbs and
Jean Laffite. By capturing hundreds of other pirates,
maritime trade was made safe and, by 1825, piracy
virtually ceased to exist in Caribbean waters.
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The (Day I Was
oy l ng ivntcnaelt me urey, Atng oJ 0eaonaa
I,, ,, .,, Bob the Bald, the King of Redonda, died peacefully, setting sail on
his i.... I .nd into uncharted waters.
Quite by chance, while his flagship Saint Peter was being broken up, his sea chest
was discovered in the bilges. Somewhat water-damaged documents found inside the
chest declared that he had chosen to pass on his title in the time-honoured fashion
down the literary line naming me, Michael Howorth, as his successor.
King Bob, otherwise known as Robert Williamson, besides 1 -in:. --.iter and
author of some note, was every inch a sailor -and to be king I ... ... I territory
such as his realm, it is almost an essential trait. The island of Redonda is located
about 30 miles to the southwest of Antigua and 13 miles northwest of the volcanic
island of Montserrat.
Redonda is an island one mile long by one third of a mile wide, rising to a height
of 971 feet, and while it is now a somewhat inhospitable and currently uninhabited
remnant of an extinct volcano cone, it was not always that way. In the early part of
the 20th century, large quantities of phosphate-bearing ore were mined from the
island for processing as fertilizer. Accommodation was established on Sussex
Plateau, rainwater reservoirs, a jetty and a cable-hoist were installed. At its peak of
production, more than 7,000 tons of ore were being exported each year. Work ceased
with the outbreak of the Great War, and was never resumed. Hurricanes destroyed
most of the buildings, with only ruins at Sussex in'-in.- The now-abandoned
island has become a refuge for seabirds, reptiles, a i. I I goats and a colony of
burrowing owls recently cl i 1 ...
I had first met King Bol I I ... 1. .. ** when, with Frances, my wife, we
bL. ,, .,-1, i ., ..... \ntigua as the homeport for our charter yacht Red Hackle,
a i .... i ....... i ketch. Bob inducted me into the Royal Navy Tot Club
where 1. ....i 1. ... I I tot of rum is drunk and a reading made from "This
Day i .. 1 .. er as a yachting journalist developed, so he became
my man in Antigua, feeding me with local news of interest and checking out story
leads. He said he read every word I ever wrote but along with his stories about being
the true King of Redonda I took that with a sprinkling of sodium chloride.
Yet in the document of succession left by King Bob he decreed that if I was to
become the island- .. I I .,,. i i, i to prove I was still writing. I also had to visit the
island within 12 : ..I.. I ..- I mise and once there raise the royal Redondan
standard. As I did n I .. i..... until the December, when I was sent to cover
the annual charter y I -1 I I1. magazine SuperYacht World, and did not know
until I actually got there that I was to become the next King, I had but a short time
in which to mount such an expedition.
Short of setting sail with a flotilla of superyachts, most of which were at the time
tied up attending the Antigua Charter Yacht Meeting, the only way it seemed to
arrive quickly on the island was to commandeer a helicopter. The only machine
capable of taking suct 11..1. i ... .- that stowed aboard the 67-metre super
yacht Allure Shadow. II I- ........ I I .ghthood to the yachts owner and agree
ing to promote the yacht's captain to command the royal fleet as High Admiral, the
loan of the Robinson 44 was agreed.
At the crack of dawn on December 12th, 2009 I, together with my royal retinue
that included John Duffy the Sheriff of Plum County and a photographer, stepped
aboard Airfarce One, and flew westwards to land at Sussex, the capital town on
Redonda. Once there, the standard was raised and a toast was made to the memory
of T.... Bob.
I,.. Christopher Columbus spotted the island in 1493 on his second journey to
the New World, he claimed Redonda for the Spanish crown, naming it Santa Maria
la Redonda. This precipitous and somewhat forbidding island is characterized by
cliffs that fall almost perpendicularly nearly 1,000 feet into the sea below the summit
located on the western side.
Columbus, unlike true Kings of Redonda, did not actually land on the island and it
has become the tradition that it is only by doing so and staking a claim to the title that
the Kingship can be passed on. The "title" of King is not hereditary and appears to have
been passed from one incumbent to another as a result of literary connections.
The history of the Kingdom is not without its own royal 'itri.;;- It has become
known around the world for its curious catalogue of whims. 1 i .- Characters"
created by famous literary figures. There have over the years been several "Kings of
Redonda" and numerous pretenders. It all started in 1865, when, allegedly, Matthew
Dowdy Shiel, a ship owner from Montserrat and a man apparently descended from
a long line of Irish in;;- -cided to crown his son, Matthew, king. He did so with
the help of William " I I Jackson, the then Bishop of Antigua.
S. - i .. .. i ... than the illegitimate son of William and,
rail 11 .... I, .. 1 ... I I I.. I .... Shiel was more likely the descendant of
Irish convicts who, having been deported to St. Kitts, escaped and went to Montserrat.
But by whatever means, Matthew rose to the title and in 1929, some 49 years after
his supposed coronation, Matthew Shiel claimed
to be King Felipe of Redonda. Later, he became
well known as a science fiction writer and that is
where the literary connection has its foundation.
The earliest written record of a King of Redonda
appears in 1929 in a pamphlet promoting the
works of the said Matthew Shiel and it may be
presumed that, being a consummate self-publi
cist, he could have invented the story to increase
his book sales.
In 1936, a succession took place making the
Irish poet John Gawsworth King Juan I, and it was
after his abdication in 1967 that 'history' became
a little confused. It appears that King Juan I did in
fact make several attempts to sell the title. At least
three advertisements are known to have appeared
in The Times newspaper and he may have offered
it for sale by other means. The writer Jon Wynne
Tyson became King Juan II in 1970, the year King
Juan I died, and he claims to have been directly
appointed by Gawsworth a fact disputed by
pretenders to the throne. Indeed, some claimants
to the title go into great detail to support their
claims on websites but these often contradict what
little factual history there is relating to the title.
The Spanish novelist Javier Marias, currently liv
ing in Spain, lays claim to the crown through the
purchase of artifacts pertaining to the Kingdom at
Sotheby's in 1997, when papers belonging to King
Juan II (the writer Jon Wynne Tyson), who had
abdicated, were sold at auction. Tyson did himself
visit the island, landing on it in 1979 and planting
an ecological flag upon its summit. It has been
established that until King Bob did so, no other
King had ever landed on the island.
In 1997, the year King Juan II abdicated, King Bob sailed across to the island in Lord
BadenPowell a 40 metre squarerigged topsail schooner, and, with 61 loyal subjects,
went ashore where he planted his standard at the top of King Juan's Peak, -1--l ri;.-
himself King, a claim he I I b I i1. I i ... his predecessor King Juan II I
doubt, King Bob had a I ",,,. I 'I ,. his detractors by living on Antigua in
close proximity to Redonda. He granted knighthoods to worthy persons and paraded
his "royal" r-r'-n.- around Antigua and could frequently be seen driving around
Antigua in I, .1 car, a rather elderly Mazda 323 topped by a gold crown.
Once i .".'... I was crowned that day at a coronation ceremony held in the
ruinsol I, .i ,. I Ch.rl-tt. -1..rl-1-inH Fnflish Harbour. Presiding over the
occasion was Terrance, L. I I I I I I I I In a moving service, the Sheriff
of Plum County read out the proclamation of the past I,,. ,,, I the archbishop first
presented me with the Royal Orb, a golden pineapple, I II I by the Mace, a stick
-f 1- .'. *.. each representing the riches of the Caribbean. Before the crown
I I I I .' I .,ed upon my head, the archbishop asked me to take a pinch of
salt from the royal saltcellar.
Top: A mythical micro-nation, Redonda is in reality part ofAntigua & Barbuda
and essentially one large rock
Above: The new King, preparing to boardAirfarce One and visit his kingdom
MA ,, -. I T.... -. i .i-1 officee of Viceroy to John Duffy who, after tak
ing I.. i. I .i i, .... I,. ,I ..11 I .. becameViceroy John Duffyof Plum County.
It is expected by those seeking ridiculous titles that I will continue the tradition estab
lished by King Bob and issue a New Years honours list at the beginning of each year.
Speaking at the ceremony after taking the name King Michael the Grey, I said that
I would uphold the title and continue ruling with all the myth, mystery and fantasy
of my predecessors. I did add that, as a travel writer specializing in the Caribbean
and more especially yachting, I would work with the Ministry of Tourism of Antigua
& Barbuda to promote the islands and I thanked the Government for the indulgent
tolerance with which they viewed my Kingdom.
In reality, Redonda became a British possession in 1860 and a dependency of
Antigua in 1967. Redonda has belonged to the peoples of that Government since
then and any claims to kingship, while spurious, are merely tolerated by the
Government for their publicity value.
The British Foreign & Commonwealth Office has no records of any agreement ced
ing the island to a king and doubts that the British Government of the day would
have granted the title to anyone. Since independence from Great Britain in 1981 it
is Antigua & Barbuda that now holds sovereignty over the rock, and all that really
-= n Redonda is confusion.
i _, ,~- ,11. 11i... ........ .. ... I i ..1 ... I unsuccessfully attem pt
ed todecla. .1- ... - i . .. . 1 1 i .. I ... order to gain diplomatic
immunity from the nationwide ban on smoking in enclosed workplaces that included
pubs. Unfortunately, for freedom-loving smokers in the UK, they were unsuccessful.
BOOK REVIEW BY ELLEN SANPERE
How to Escape From a Leper Colony: a Novella and Stories, by Tiphanie
Yanique. 2010, GreywoolfPress. 184 pages. ISBN 978-1 55597550-0.
This book's title is unusual and
grabs the bookstore browser. Who
has even thought of leprosy since
the discovery of a cure for Hansen's
disease in the 1930s -except
perhaps tourists visiting
Chacachacare, an abandoned
leper colony in Trinidad? It is here
that the first story takes place.
Living up t- ti- ii-i tr of the
i i n' -i B title, this -'1i "I .1 I stories
also grabs the reader from the
TI PH ANIE YANIQ U E The title story foreshadows the
roads and dusty paths, Yanique
takes the reader from Trinidad to
this remote island, just five miles
child's blood is the first of many
lush color photos, rather than
The colony is run by white
nuns, who remain separate from
patients of all colors and faiths,
and who are assisted by an
assortment of volunteers wrapped
in white: Trinidadian doctors,
British journalists, young people carrying Bibles in their pockets, and criminals
trading time in jail for time among the lepers. There are two churches, Catholic and
Protestant Though there isn't any place for Hindus, Deepa finds it easy to chant
about Jesus Christ and slip in a Lord Krishna here and there."
After many days of trying to I... I I eepa should sleep, the nuns put her
in a oneroom house with an I I- - -.' Tantie B There is talk about a cure
for their disease, and Tantie B wants Deepa's mother not to think badly of her par
ending skills, should the young girl go home someday. She is the grandmother Deepa
Two years older than Deepa, Lazaro becomes like a brother to her and says his
patient records are revealed to any boater who stops to explore. When Yanique vis-
ited and learned that the details of the abandonment were a mystery, she made up
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a story to explain it. It might be true, or it might be fiction; regardless, the story is
fascinating and beautifully written.
The Caribbean hosts an anthology of islands, populated by people and their
descendants who have been transported from somewhere else. Each island is unique
in its mixture of dialects and histories, yet many living there are subject to feelings
of alienation and the influence of more affluent countries. Yanique's stories bril
liantly portray different people of the Caribbean islands, all of whom have been
displaced in some way, whether voluntarily or otherwise, recently or long ago. "The
Bridge Stories" offers one ill-fated solution to connect the islands.
The book is dedicated to the Virgin Islands, where the author was born and raised,
and several stories take place there. The characters i.- ... 1 1 Carnival
costume maker, a Frenchie (Frenchies, generally residents I I .. i.1 are people
of French decent who colonized St. Thomas), a Muslim, a beauty queen, expatriates,
bi-racial couples and their children -all deal with issues of race, sexuality, status,
religion, double standards, affluence or poverty, tourism, and changing cultures.
"Kill the Rabbits" takes place in the US Virgin Islands around Carnival time. It's a
multi-level story about Cooper, a pickpocket on St. Thomas, and Herman, the son of
two American pro
fessors who buy a
house and a bar on
St. John after a
cruise ship visit.
The two very differ
ent young men are
both in love with
Xica, a motherless
young woman in a
yellow dress, raised
by her grandfather,
a costume maker.
She sees Herman as
a transient thing
appeared and I
expected him to Today, yachts escape to theformer leper colony at
disappear any min Chacachacare perhaps the ideal place to read this
ute, so I fell in love book's title story
with him." She
observes, "Flesh is also a kind of costume. It is also a thing to hide behind. A thing
to move you and to be moved by. Skin. The walls of a gated community," as she
visits Herman on St. John.
Cooper, a thief and accused rapist, ponders why his culture is "something worth
keeping alive," and frets about whorishness, "...selling ourselves. But not ourselves,
really. The land. But the land is us... The St. Johnians can't even afford to live in St.
John." As he observes a white man bearing a heavy wooden cross beneath the jail
cell window on Easter Sunday (is that Herman, after reading his father's History of
Christian Martyrdom?), he concludes: "The answer is the same no matter where they
might be or where they might be from. For love, of course. Nothing else is worth it."
Yanique writes with a tough love for her island, her r' .i 1. people -yet she does
not preach. Her stories have won international prizes I I' i, ,, A Fulbright scholar,
she is an assistant professor at Drew University in New York and visits St. Thomas
when she can. Her skill as a writer makes the most unlovable characters loveable, or
at least, palatable and understood. I -, ., I i1 text on white paper a shine
like gold dust on a yellow dress. Her -.... .- 1.11 i I .1 tight white pants, red saris,
purple bridesmaids' dresses, Puma trainers, Maui Jims, silk nightgowns, dark burkas,
and tuxedos. In her portraits of island people, she captures the colors, textures,
sounds and even the smells of the Caribbean -aspects that transplants and tourists
might notice but rarely experience, let alone explore, understand or love.
Available for purchase online at www.tiphanieyanique.com, BarnesandNoble.com,
Ellen Sanpere has lived on Cayenne III, an Idylle 15.5, since 1998, mostly in the
Caribbean. She recently moved ashore on St. Croix.
Y ARIES (21 Mar 20 Apr)
Break out the drifter. Boat business will be in the dol
life. Concentrate on creative ventures.
d TAURUS (21 Apr 21 May)
While creativity is on a rollicking beat, communications
111 i 1 i.i11 .. I n 1 1 -- 1 -hind after the
GEMINI (22 May 21 Jim)
Any marine related business will be under full sail,
i ... ll cruise into your
S 1. i i warm welcome.
CANCER (22 Jun 23 Jul)
Although communications are still garbled and
romance might seem headed for the rocks, it will all
improve after the 7th to complement your business and
Q LEO (24 Jul 23 Aug)
August will be a creative month, so put everything
else to one sid . i I I 1 i i '
get new boat i i .... i i
p VIRGO (24 Aug 23 Sep)
gr( ."1 11 .. i I I 1. i ance
take its course, even if it's away from you.
^ LIBRA (24 Sep 23 Oct)
Concentrate on nautical business aspirations in the
first week and use your work energy for the rest of the
month to bring those business plans to a safe harbor.
T[L SCORPIO (24 Oct 22 Nov)
Concentrate on creative projects this month and fin
ish up all boatwork left undone so far, even if crewmem
bers are less than helpful. Get out the cat o nine tails if
SAGITTARIUS (23 Nov 21 Dec)
You can accomplish a lot on board this month if you
don't allow others to backwind your efforts.
6 CAPRICORN (22 Dec 20 Jan)
Contact anyone who can help you sail forward before
the 21st when your powers of persuasion will wane.
Romance will be on the ebb tide and business dealings a
^ AQUARIUS (21 Jan 19 Feb)
You'll be feeling energetic so put it into your boat busi
ness in the first week and let a sailorly new romance be
your reward after the 7th.
SPISCES (20 Feb 20 Mar)
........ .. .. i to windward and you
, I break from it all and
go ,, 1 I g.. with good boat bud
dies or go single-handing until the situation improves.
A LITTLE REMINDER
Life on the water or life on land?
A decision few people understand...
What do you want, how do you thrive,
In your short but precious life?
Waking up any time you choose,
Or stopping the alarm by pressing snooze?
Having a nice breakfast on your vessel's deck,
Or rushing out of the house, already a wreck?
Reading the plot of a dam good book,
Or stuck in traffic with a frustrated look?
Spending the day, exploring a new place,
Or sitting at work, a demanding boss in your face?
Leaving the area and sailing around,
Or doing your job, as if chased by a hound?
Exchanging stories with other cruisers,
Or surviving in the office with a bunch of losers?
Being surrounded by water and sand,
Or staring at the same old features on land?
Having a cocktail outside, feeling free,
Or chugging a Bud in front of the TV?
Grilling that fish you recently caught,
Or cooking a meal with ingredients you bought?
Rocked in your bunk by waves oh so kind,
Or going to bed with work on your mind?
Whenever you feel lonely, annoyed or sad,
Know there is a less exciting life to be led.
Whenever you doubt your existence at sea,
Remember how living on land would be!
I bougRh her off eBaj. dad. BS the rl). dona
be rrisred if three a wall charAkg your
Towards a Systematic Nomenclature for
Recreational Yachties and Associated Yacht Folk
by Andy Pell and Lorna Rudkin
As academics, we were given a grant by one of the lesser-known divisions of the
EU to examine the types (social, economic and length of experience) and assess the
motivations of long-term yacht liveaboards.
The traditional literature lists the more obvious types, focusing upon older males
with beard '.-1 fl-r-- V ts who have spent many years perfecting stoops, are able
to row a i.,. i. .... I 9 gale and splice galvanized rigging wire with their bare
hands. TI. .. i. I .- 1 .. made ui f ti-. 1 -- 1 barnacles, old backk" (which
dieticians have decided can make a- .. i .. i. aday intake of vegetables) and
the local grog (which is often rated not by age or clarity but by its octane ratio).
A younger .. .I. i .- also been detected, often in pairs with ideas of romantic
places and i I II i 7 requirement for space. In vessels many would balk at
choosing for racing round marks in a lake, they cross oceans and tackle poor weath
er. This data-set is remarkably numerous, possibly caused by their use of blogging,
which in turn encourages others. Their skill with modern technology is a strong dif
ferentiator between them and the older generation who still hold that the sextant is
Reports have also been made of a more numerous group, tending to be in middle
age. Those in this segment has often been economically active but have retired to
broaden their horizons and escape their offspring (see group above). This group
tends to splits into t--- tli. t -.--- 1-
This division seem I I .1 .. I... I 1 .1.1 P- t .-- i ---, research
ers refer to this as ": I .... I .i .. i .... .. ri i .. .1 avitational
effects of boat hulls are in some part involved. Others are more solitary and tend to
interact less, not only with their fellow yachties but often within a single boat's aver
age crew of two. Preliminary enquiries have yet to show differences between these
two sub-groups when going to and through the Panama Canal. Flocking is often
most clearly exhibited when the more sociable feel in some way threatened. Areas
where piracy or theft is rife will often be hot spots for VHF nets and "pot lucks", clear
indications of the more sociable group. It has been -... 1 that some of the less
sociable seek out more isolated places to anchor whe. I1. immune with nature",
which may be indicative of social/psychiatric disorders.
Other possible delineators include hull or mast numbers as these factors seem to
divide the groups horizontally. Some owners of catamarans have friends with
monohulls but rarely mention them in company. Similarly, in our own experience,
ketch owners staunchly defend this rig while having difficulty --rlinin n--" r-l1
benefit. Our own suggestions, being a useful hand-hold when : i....... ... .
strenuous research or a sound place to rig a hammock, seem to be in a minority.
Having bought and renovated a research vessel and started the initial study
(names, addresses and invoices from bars supplied on request) we have found a need
for further research monies andwii I i. i .. i ...I i . .... i...
Current research funded by the F .i i .... ... i i i .. i I ....... ,
Leisure Executive (RIDICULE).
Andy Pell and Lorna Rudkin cruise the Caribbean aboard Yacht Tixi Lixi.
The World Meteorological Organization establishes one list of Atlantic hurricane
names for each of six years; i.e. one list is repeated every seventh year.
But if a storm is extremely destructive, that name is retired from the list.
Find retired hurricane names in this Word Search Puzzle by Pauline Dolinski.
RETIRED HURRICANE NAMES PUZZLE
HAZ E L A E L L E H C IM I
U L M H T I E K R D E N NI S
G F LO Y D D O G U H E S T U
E I L I L I DGUSTAVCE
OL INZAI CTH I YTHL
RA L E S L P A P A F R A N E
G N N I BO N M A R I LY N N
E I Y E M A W E S E F U N A A
S R R Y R A S E C A .K A V L Y,
ATYONWCLI B X I L E F
D A D E E N C A R O L O S B L
I K L R A B E N R B N E H A R
A U D R E Y D L I M N E R S A
NNFRAGNOTGEA M I H
A M L I W C A R A E I N N O D
Word Search Puzzle solution on page 23
I C'lRUIS 14ING KID' *RTNRIi
the Evil Spirit
-a Modern Folkt.ale
by Lee Kessell
In a seaside village on a lush and lovely island in the southern Caribbean,
where the spirit world with all its terrors is part of everyday life, a particu
larly evil spirit had .,, .1, hold of 14-year-old Mollykins and it put her
in a cheap wooden 1.I" Mollykins had done nothing to deserve this but
Mistress Poteree, the evil spirit, was jealous because Mollykins was the
prettiest girl in the village.
Now everyone in the village knew that Mistress Poteree was a garze who
had sold her soul to a devil in return for magical powers. So when
Mollykins disappeared they shuddered and said nothing.
Mistress Poteree decided to give Mollykins a chance to escape, laughing
to herself that no one in the village would ever dare interfere. You see, the
,ii . knew that if a coffin suddenly appeared in your path after night
..11 evil spirit was after you and the only thing you could do was to
take off your shirt and put it on backwards and then sit on the coffin until
daybreak when it would disappear and let you go home. Mistress Poteree
told Mollykins that if anyone opened the coffin they would free her.
Sounds easy, but Mistress Poteree made sure that Mollykins could not be
heard through the coffin and no matter how loudly she shrieked for help,
no one would hear her.
That night, along came Joe the baker, going home for dinner and bed
before getting up early in the morning to bake the breakfast bread.
"Oh me God, a coffin," whispered Joe. He immediately took off his flour
dusty shirt and put it on backwards and then sat on the coffin to wait it
out. "Well, I won't go hungry," said Joe. "I'll just eat this bread I was taking
home." And so he did.
Mollykins shouted with all her might, but Joe couldn't hear her.
Mollykins became frantic, and the delicious smell of the bread made her
stomach churn and gurgle with hunger. Mollykins shrieked and shouted
with all'. .... .1, 1 ,, [ course the baker didn't hear her. At first light Joe
was at 1h -1 i' I )me.
The next night along came Ma Mina, the sewing lady, and exactly the
same 1..... i opened but she went home hungry.
The I II ... night 12-year-old Sessi was caught by the coffin on her
way home from her aunt's, but she fell asleep as she sat on the coffin and
woke up on the hard, stony ground.
Mistress Poteree laughed long and loud and poor Mollykins grew thinner
and thinner. Next a small boy was trapped, and he cried himself to sleep.
After this, everyone in the village got home before dark and that is how a
young shipwrecked sailor, trying to find a bed for the night, found a long
wooden box across the path. The young man was a stranger to the islands
and knew nothing about evil spirits or cursed coffins so he decided to look
inside, hoping to find some clue to its owner.
Mollykins had heard the footfalls approach and then stop so she called
for help. The young man thought he had heard a faint cry so he looked
about, but seeing no one he bent down and opened the lid of the box.
When he saw ---;;;. 1rl inside he jumped back in surprise. Mistress
Poteree flew to I. I... ... a panic but before she could slam the lid shut,
A young shipwrecked sailor,
trying to find a bed for the night
found a long wooden box across the path
Mollykins leaped out and threw . .- .. i.i .1 ..I the wide-eyed
-;---. Mistress Poteree now f .... I I. II ... I. .1 r locked inside
1, ... nd she shrieked like a banshee.
The villagers, who had seen Mistress Poteree fly 1.. .. 1. the air,
quickly spread the word and every one ran to see : 11. offin and
Mistress Poteree had vanished. Instead they saw Mollykins hugging a
strange young man and heard Mistress Poteree shrieking like a banshee.
What had happened?
The answer cam. .- .i i1.... iuds gathered over the village and a
monstrous devil, i.... I i i... head to toe with two sharp horns
springing from his i i. i ... i his spear at the coffin. He gave a
mighty roar like thunder and sent a shaft of green lightning right into the
coffin. Mistress Poteree and the coffin disappeared in a fiery ball and cloud
and the devil disappeared with it. All that remained was a scorched patch
As you c .- :: "'I llykins married the young man. They found a boat
and sailed 1 I -I, 1 i see the world. Mollykins adored her young man
and he thought it was much more fun to sail with a loving companion.
And, oh yes -no more garzes were ever seen in the village again.
PI MPRO SPNORDB5PTT ST. VN |R
I fl "'"U It
I '* ,' -.-
' DEEP SECRETS
by Elaine Ollivierre
SDo you remember the name of the horizontal underground stems from
which seagrass leaves grow? They're called rhizomes. Seagrass plants repro
Sduce asexually by sending out a rhizome under the sand on the sea floor. At dif
ferent points along the rhizome, shoots sprout upwards and roots grow downward
I as the seagrass spreads into new areas.
Does seagrass reproduce sexually? Ma' ., 1 f;. : 1- ; ,: flowers are usu
ally found on separate plants and may be -... ,1 i i 1. 1 -.ee. But yes, they
do produce ova and pollen. The pollen has a gelatinous coating that protects it
from the seawater as it floats away from the flower. The ova and pollen fuse to form
I seeds, which are carried away from the parent plant by water currents to start a
new life somewhere else.
I Rhizomes have other uses. They contain a vascular system of 'tubes'. The sea
grass makes food by photosynthesis in its leaves and it absorbs nutrients from the
water and from the sea floor through its roots. The food can be passed through
the tubes for other leaves, roots and shoots to share.
As rhizomes and roots grow, they become tangled and form clumps that are dif
Sficult to pull up. In this way, they help to stabilize the sand on the sea bottom.
Seagrass rhizomes only grow at the ends. If a rhizome is cut in two, the cut ends
do not grow again. This means that it is easy to destroy seagrass beds if their
rhizomes are damaged by yacht anchors or speedboat propellers for example.
I Is seagrass of any use to anyone? Lets make a list.
SSeagrass meadows improve the quality of the seawater around them. Their root
systems hold sand and mud on the sea floor while their leaves trap fine particles
from the water.
Seagrass leaves act as baffles. This means that they slow down the flow of
water around the leaves so that small creatures can find refuge and not get
.-. .- 1- provide excellent nursery grounds within the tangle of their
S . . .. species.
Seagrass leaves are eaten by larger marine species like green turtles. The
turtles do not destroy the seagrass because shoots spring up again from the rhi
Dead seagrass leaves may wash up on beaches and can be used as mulch for
Puzzle: Six words from the passage are written below in code but not necessary
ily in the order given. Decode the symbols then find the answer to the question.
E A D
0 L L
E A V
O I N
Question What is seagrass?
o0 xx *x 0
T OVooA^e VT *
See puzzle answer on page 45
I. --------- ml
THE SKY IN AUGUST
by Scott Welty
The Planets this August
MERCURY -An evening star all month. Low in the western sky at sunset.
VENUS -A bright evening star also all month.
EARTH -Stuck in an oil slick.
MARS -Also in the west and setting around 2030.
JUPITER -Not playing nicely with the other planets. Rising 2130 early in the month and 1930 later. Setting in
SATURN -Joins the party in the west setting just before Mars.
Sky Events This Month
9th -New Moon
13th -The spectacular grouping of Mercury, Venus, Mars, Saturn, and the crescent moon. Look in the evening
sky around 1900 hours (see Figure 1).
17th -Moon just misses the bright star Antares (see Figure 2).
20th -Venus at maximum elongation (see below).
24th Full Moon
Venus in the Daytime!
Elongation means how many
1- -nliething appears away
Sty ... -i . Since Venus is an "infe
rior" planet (closer to the sun than we
are) it will have a maximum elonga
tion of less than 180 degrees. That is,
Venus will never appear '.... II.
sky at midnight. It can't, Ih I
us" since it's inside our orbit.
This month, Venus reaches its
maximum possible i ,.i. I I1 ,
I -i tl' 0th. I
S.. .. I chance to see Venus
in the daytime! We've all probably
noticed that you can often see the
moon in the daytime. It's big. But you
can also see Venus in the daytime
with clear skies.
Figure 3 shows the sun and Venus
at noon on the 20th. The sun is
nearly straight up at noon on that
day in the Caribbean. Venus will be
Figure 1: Nice grouping! August 13, around 1900 hours looking west to the left (east) and a little south
Figure 2: The Moon just misses the bright star Antares You can look at Venus with your
Figure 3: The sun is straight up at noon. Venus can be found about 45 naked eye o i .. ..i ir binocu
degrees to the left and down a little (east and south) WITH YOUR BINOCULARS. In fact, if
you're going to look with binoculars
you should put the sun bi.... I .... Ii,,,, i.i ..r mast or
bimini to prevent you from ...... If you're
w going to use your binoculars I ,,- II .....- ... II.... VERY far
away (such as the horizon) first and then scan to the left of the
sun. Don't worry if it's cloudy on the 20th. Venus will be pretty
far east from the sun all month.
To Contemplate While Having a Glass of Wine on Deck
I recently helped with a boat delivery, ..i.... h om Key West to
Kemah, Texas, which is in Galveston B1. i. I version: It was
hot... very hot... with little wind. We arrived in Galveston Bay in
the wee hours with ii-ii ...... i-i. he eastern sky began
to lighten the moon .... ..I. ... I i... I a cloud in the west
with a chunk missing! Partial lunar eclipse! A nice surprise
and not visible in the Caribbean, as the moon would have been
down already for us here. Imagine my surprise, and better yet
:.. the surprise felt by the ancients when a chunk was missing from the moon. Actually, this was one of the
i. that the Earth was a sphere as people quickly :..... I ,,I i .i -. i. is the only shape that will always
project a circular shadow no matter the angles involved .1 I i. I I Ih Iarth on the moon during a lunar
eclipse is always circular. So there!
Scott Welty is the author ofThe Why Book of Sailing, Burford Books, @2007.
on the widest selection and the
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Whether its canned goods, dairy
products, meat, fresh vegetables
or fruits, toiletries, household goods,
or a fine selection of liquor and wine,
The Food Fair has it all and a lot more
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by Michelle Daniels
My husband, Dave, and I have been cruising the
Caribbean going on four years now, but until this year
we never fished. We love to eat fish, but have considered
ourselves the world's worst fishermen. Why's that?
Well, back in our land-living days, we owned a prop
erty on Lake Lanier, Georgia. Lake Lanier boasts some
of the best bass i-1...... ,, i. country, r ..... 1.1,1
Grant, was an I i.-1. ...... Our doc - i I i
apart. Grant would come down to his dock, cast a line
in between our two docks and within minutes pull up
a bass. Never having had our own success at fishing,
we eagerly listened to Grant's advice, sure that our
fishing luck would change. So, we too cast our lines in
the same patch of water. Our lines remained slack;
.... i, ,,, 1 ..1. No question, we were the
When it came time to outfit our 1998 Island Packet
40, Daniell Storey, for cruising, friends and acquain
tances encouraged us to purchase fishing equipment.
We were sure to catch fish, they said. So, depending
upon the advice of a resident fishing professional at
the local chandlery, we purchased the necessary rod,
reel, lures, fillet knife and sport-fishing guidebook.
I think we trolled the line once in the first three
years and lost a lure. Frustrated, we stowed the
This past January, however, ,.....- were about to
change when a cruising friend ... Steve, on S/V
Seaman's Elixir, "primed the pump" as Dave likes to
say. Steve's enthusiasm for fishing was contagious. He
was so optimistic that our luck would change that he
gave us one of his pink squid lures. Out came the fish
ing gear. At the time we were in the USVI and we
decided to try trolling between St. Thomas and the
Spanish ,....- We actually hooked a fish, but lost
the lure. I II .1 I we thought the curse would never
be shaken off.
But Dave decided that if Steve was kind enough to
prime the pump with the first pink squid, we should
go find another one and, at least in the spirit of the
gift, continue trying. And so it came to pass that in
March we landed our first fish, a six-pound King
Mackerel, while sailing along the south coast of St.
John. Our first taste of mackerel -delicious! Then, in
April while sailing north from Antigua to Barbuda we
1. 1.. iT T ....... -
.. ... II i i I 1 1 .... ...I I II on th e
idea of trolling a line while underway. Travel between
islands gained a new level of excitement. On our return
sail from Barbuda to Antigua, sure enough, we caught
another Little Tunny! Early on the morning of April 29th
we departed Antigua and headed south towards
Guadeloupe, once again trolling our fishing line. At
0930 hours, "Fish on!" This time, it quickly became
clear that we'd hooked something large. This fish fought
hard. After a bit, it leapt out of the water -a mahi mahi!
We were giddy with excitement. Now the real test; could
two novices successfully haul in a catch like this? We
did. The male mahi mahi measured 40 inches! We were
like kids at Christmas time, grinning ear to ear.
How long would our beginner's luck continue?
Saturday, May 22nd, anchor up at 0600 hours and we
were on our way from Anse DArlet to : .. i
south coast of Martinique. I . .I i I i
15 nautical miles, the last I Ii -, miles is almost
guaranteed a beat into the prevailing easterlies of more
than 20 knots and often with an opposing current.
Continued on next page
Our second mahi mahi catch
continued from previous page
We expected an early start would give us a bit of a break,
as the winds tend to pick up later in the morning.
As Dave set up to troll the fishing line, I said, "Those
two marlin steakswe. 1 r 1...... 1 .. J ,. 1. the
last of our fish so its t... I .1 I .... I, i I pur
chased the marlin from a local fisherman.) Our sail
plan was to head directly for Diamond Rock, which has
a very steep contour line underwater with depths
quickl-- r-.-bi ----r 1,000 feet. We would follow the
150 .... I i I contour line. There was a better
i ...... chance that some good catches could be
Dramatic Diamond Rock is nothing short of the peak of
an underwater mountain that stands sentry off the south
west tip of Martinique. Today, it was shrouded in the early
morning mist, which softened its tortured facade.
Fish pots littered the 150-foot contour line so we fol
lowed the 300-foot line, making our way around
Diamond Rock. The wind was less than ten knots, the
time was 0700 hours. Dave went below. I carefully
navigated outside the line of fish pots. The last thing
we wanted was to snag one of them with our lure.
Then, "zzzzzzzz." I looked over at the fishing rod. I
could hardly believe it! ... i..... was hooked, again!
I called down to Dave, i .-1. .. He came to the com-
panionway, "You're kidding, :..i.'" I just grinned. One
glance at the rod said it all. i snagged something
.. .11 ..i i , i i .. i 1 i he fish l had
S ... ... I i .. . .. I II .... I us and saw
a fishing pot back a ways. Did I snag that? But, Dave
quickly relieved my concern: "Definitely a fish." This fish
was not in a hurry to show itself to us, though. It stayed
deep. Looking at Dave strain, I realized whatever this
was, it was larger than any of our other catches. Then,
as I watched behind us, a shimmering jewel of yellow
and green broke the surface and leapt into the air.
Another mahi mahi! Wow, our second one!
Dave reeled the fish to within about 70 feet of Daniell
Storey. As we watched it fight, it made a fast dash from
the starboard side, crossing our stern to the port side.
Fishermen have shared stories of fish crossing the
stern in this manner, apparently to cut the line on the
prop. Now, don't ask me how these fish are smart
enough to figure that out, but so we've been told. With
this in mind, I steered Daniel Storey to starboard to
keep the fish off our stern while Dave reached to
release the tension wheel a bit to let out some addi
tional line and set the fish further behind us. The fish
jerked the line so quickly, though, that the reel over
sDun. causing a bird's nest mess to form around the
reel. Hmmm, definitely still beginners in the sport of
:.-.... ii..- uld get interesting.
I I I put the rod back in its holder until the
mahi mahi tired. Meanwhile, we tossed about a couple
of ideas for landing the fish should Dave not be able to
reel it in any further. For ten minutes the mahi mahi
remained below the surface, resting. Time to change
that. Dave took the reel once again and began working
the fish. The i, .. .. .. I i ..II... ...i ..
breaking the -... 1 ... ... ii. i .
then that it was quickly tiring. Dave attempted to reel
in some line and luckily the line overlaid the snarl and
we were in a good position to reel in our catch. As Dave
reeled the mahi mahi alongside, we saw two fresh bite
marl .. -. ,, l..... ... 1.1 ly a barracuda,
had .I .1. i ..I i ... .1.. plight. Ifithad
been a shark, we'd be pulling in only a head.
Net in my left hand, rum to anesthetize the fish in
my right, I stood prepared as Dave brought her up
alongside. She was indeed a heavy lady and measured
48 inches! She is also the most tender of all mahi mahi
we've ever eaten.
All we can say is this beginner's luck thing is .
and Steve on S/V Seaman's Elixir gets a lot I I,
credit for making that happen. Thanks a million for
your influence, Steve, on our getting the pole out and
having some fun.
Mahi Mahi Coconut Fingers
1 pound mahi mahi, sliced into sticks
1/2 Cup pako crumbs
1/2 Cup shredded coconut
Blend together the pako crumbs and shredded coco
nut into a bowl. Add a few dashes of cayenne pepper.
Dip each mahi stick first in milk, then roll in corn
starch, then dip in milk again and finally in the crumb
mixture. (The cornstarch helps the crumbs to adhere
to the fish sticks.)
Cover the bottom of a skillet with olive oil and heat
until pan is hot. Add the mahi mahi to the skillet and
brown each side over medium heat, cooking until the
fish is tender and flaky (3 to 4 minutes). Serve with
Banana Ketchup dipping sauce (recipe below) or your
Banana Ketchup Dipping Sauce
1/4 Cup mayonnaise or yogurt
2 Tablespoons banana ketchup
juice of one fresh lime
Caribbean hot sauce
Blend all ingredients, adding the hot sauce a drop at
a time until you achieve the desired heat.
THE SPICE LOCKER BY SHIRLEY HALL
Bittersweet Mauby, the Summer Refresher
Mauby was always a special holiday drink at our home. The spicy
drink is made from the dried bark of a small tree native to the northern
Caribbean and Central America. A member of the buckthorn family, its
botanical name is Colubrina elliptica. This bitter bark is known by vari
ous common names, depending on the island where it is grown or con
sumed: mabi or mavi in Puerto Rico, Haiti, and the Dominican Republic;
Cuba names it jayajabico; in the US it is soldier wood, while in the
Bahamas it is called smooth snake bark, and in the French Caribbean
it is bois mambee. Other names are black velvet, coffee colubrina, cora
zon de paloma, mawbie, and snakewood.
The wood -hard, heavy, strong and durable -is commonly used for
posts. The sapwood is light brown, while the heartwood is much darker
We have a choice of
buying the bark, the
concentrate, or the
ready drink. Mauby
concentrate can be
mixed with water
brown. The orange-brown bark is smooth on young small trees, but as
the tree matures it becomes scaly. The inner bark is light brown and
bitter. During the dry season the tree will shed most of its leaves as the
sap drains to the roots, but at the height of the rainy season it will be
shrouded in attractive purplish-green leaves. This is when the bark
should be harvested.
Most Caribbean people don't even know the tree, but love the refresh
ing drink. Some claim it as an aphrodisiac, others say it helps relieve
arthritis, and everyone knows it is a great coolant on a hot day.
All the mauby I've made and drunk has been prepared from the bark
(combined with sugar, herbs and spices) although my research found
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sources that also use the leaves and berries. Unsweetened, which is very
seldom, the refreshing bark decoction is used as a bitter tonic for diabe
tes, hypertension, cholesterol and stomach disorders. According to
research done at the University of the West Indies, mauby combined
with coconut milk may lower blood pressure.
People love mauby! Trinidad locally produces more than one and a half
million gallons a year of mauby concentrate. Due to the lack of local
sources, the bark is imported from Haiti and the Dominican Republic.
We are lucky to have a choice of buying the bark, the concentrate, or
"Mauby Fizz" -the ready drink.
Often the drink is fermented -'in. -rt ''n of the previous batch,
while sometimes it is consumed ....I .... .. I Mauby concentrate can
be mixed with water or soda. To the mauby novice the first taste is
sweet, but changes to a bitter aftertaste. Some Americans say the only
thing they can compare it with is root beer. Many people find it an
acquired taste -but an addictive one!
Mauby Island Total Refresher
6 pieces of mauby bark
1 gallon of fresh water
4 sprigs of marjoram
1 bunch anise (optional)
1 stem of rosemary
1/2 Cup of thinly sliced peeled ginger root
1 stick of cinnamon
1 Tablespoon ground nutmeg
12 whole cloves
2 Tablespoons Angostura bitters
3 Cups brown sugar (more or less to taste)
1 Tablespoon dry yeast
Boil the mauby bark in one quart of the water and let sit covered for
at least an hour. Then ad I .- i..... except the yeas' ..... .ip the
heat and simmer for an .... I I letting it cool, I i i over
Add the yeast to a Tablespoon of water and combine this with the
mauby mixture. Then carefully bottle, filling each to the neck. Let sit in
a shaded place overnight. Chill and enjoy.
Using brown sugar will contribute to the darkness of this drink. The
Angostura bitters will actually buffer the slightly bitter aftertaste.
Makes enough for a party or for gifts.
For the Gardener
The mauby is a nice functional backyard tree. It grows to about 20
feet, and should be staked when hard winds blow. It only needs direct
sunlight a few hours a day, and likes well-drained soil. Every month
during the dry season, I recommend giving it a five-gallon bucket of
water. Molding with mulch will give support to the young roots and help
the soil conserve nutrients and water. Small green blossoms appear
usually in July and the berries come on from September to March. Some
mauby trees are evergreen, but you won't know until after planting.
Usually this tree not only drops its leaves, but as it matures it will pro
duce a multitude of small berries. I would not recommend this tree if
you are a neat freak.
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We are looking for crew, mainly teams in the form of a Captain and a Chef/Hostess.
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Requirements: Captain with a Skipper's licence.
Chef/Hostess with a basic understanding of cooking.
Dive master/ instructor for either the Captain and/or Chef is a plus.
We offer full training onsite in the Caribbean.
This is a FUN job with great earning potential. If you are willing to work hard and
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If you would like more information about this job or send your CV to us, please
use this email address:
or by mail to: Bequia Marina, P.O.Box 194BQ, Port Elizabeth,
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Tel. St Vincent +784 457 3407 Tel. St Maarten +599 5510550
While browsing through the May 2010 edition of
your magazine I came across two letters in your
Readers' Forum section that left me feeling a bit
uneasy. The first letter, by Charles Lamb of S/V Itza
Purla, disturbed me because Lamb encourages a "boat
boy" to claim a fee for assisting a yachtsman in an
emergency. Since when is payment of fees the expect
ed outcome of assistance? Helping people in crisis is
or at least was what civilized people do.
Like most of us who have been sailing for any length
of time, I have assisted many boaters over the years
and have yet to receive a penny for my efforts. No pay
ments were offered and none was expected. My reward
lay in simply knowing that I was able to help. This is
how boating should be, or at least I feel so.
Now, in case you feel that I am carrying ,, i ,,.
over nothing, let us explore letter number i .. I
In this letter, Gary Upman of S/V Kokopeli gives us
not one, but three examples of boat boys not being
monetarily rewarded for their assistance. What stood
out only too glaringly in Upham's second and third
examples of yachtsmen abusing the locals is that in
both examples other yachtsmen also helped to avert
calamity. Furthermore, Upman seems to confuse the
word appreciate with pay. Why does Upman not
lament the plight of the poor un-paid yachtsmen? Why
are his sentiments s( ........ .. -, And then, he
goes on to insult the I .,I1 I 1 -i i"idian people by
asking the hypothetical question, "Why get involved at
all if it isn't appreciated?"
Ironically enough, I was sailing along, stewing over
this well intended bigotry, when I spotted the crew of
a St. Vincent i;- ;; sperately signaling my atten
tion. The natu. I 1I distress need not concern us
here: what matters is that I ended up towing them for
several hours, until we reached a safe anchorage.
Their poor boat handling left a gouge in Mariposa's
hull and their poor seamanship required them to cut
the towline my line! The only compensation I was
offered was a hearty thanks and a wave goodbye.
And that -: e 1 ;;h for me. With Upman's
"why l I i 11 ,I.II I expect there would be
three I n vi today.
What further disturbs me is that Compass would
print not just one, but two of these sorrowfully mis
guided letters, seemingly endorsing their discrimina
I have discussed this insidious us and them attitude
with other yachtsmen and know that my sentiments are
shared by many. We all look forward to your comments.
Thank youfor sharing your thought provoking take on
the content of the letters mentioned. We're sorry, how-
ever, that you were disturbed by the fact that they were
published. We call our letters section the Readers'
Forum precisely because we intend it to be a forum a
public place for the open exchange of ideas and opin-
ions (and for further discussion of those ideas and
opinions) rather than an "amen comer" that only
echoes sentiments endorsed by the editor.
In response to Ron Llewellyn's evaluation of Trinidad
and Donald Stollmeyer of YSATT's response, both in
the July issue's Readers' Forum, I would like to say
that I know for a fact that all of the events that Mr.
Llewellyn reported are true from my experience here
and as reported on the daily cruisers' net. Mr.
Stollmeyer's response was very unprofessional and
childish, reminding me of Tattoo of Fantasy Island
fame: "This is paradise... nothing bad happens here".
It also represents the problem that Mr. Llewellyn was
alluding to. Namely, denial. As stated, all of the thefts
Mr. Llewellyn described were reported over the cruis
ers' net and to YSATT -fact. Since then there have
been five boats broken into and stripped of clothes,
bicycles, computers, and electronics. I witnessed the
investigations and spoke with two of the owners and
two caretakers of some of the breached boats. A
14-foot RIB with a Yamaha motor and blue cover was
taken just recently. Regarding the latter: it was appar
ently reported to the Coast Guard at 3:00AM and they
finally responded at 5:00AM. Note that there are not
one, but two large Coast Guard stations less than two
miles on either side of the area of theft. As of this writ
ing the dinghy has yet to be recovered, even with a
detailed description of the offending pirogue, motor,
occupants and supposedly working security cameras
at Peake's boatyard aimed directly at the dinghies.
By the way, all of the above incidents were reported
to YSATT, so Mr. Stollmeyer can also add "misin
formed" to his resume. In fact, shortly after the five
boat break-ins occurred, a cruiser reported over the
net that a YSATT official (I'm hoping that it was Mr.
Stollmeyer and that all YSATT officials aren't of the
same grain) told him that all the thief did was rum
through first-aid kits looking for drugs. Period.
I' another net user asked if the reporting sailor
believed that to be accurate, he wisely said that he
believed the YSATT official was iIi i .... i .
tourism reasons. I personally c,, i i ,,, II1 .11 ,I I ... [
on the part of this (these) YSATT officials) that shows
a grave disregard for the wellbeing, safety and secu
rity of cruisers. I'm afraid that if a cruiser was mur
l-r--1 -1;;ri ie of these robberies that the
-1 ii ... i report would be that they accident
tally stepped in front of a knife... this is paradise,
Mon! The police and Coast Guard take the same bury
their head in the sand, don't bother me I'd rather
lime approach. Cruisers aren't even a distant consid
eration in my opinion.
The Trinidad & Tobago Coast Guard (TTCG) have
new, fast boats. Thats got to be good, right?
Unfortunately all they seem to accomplish in them is
joy riding. I was anchored out from Power Boats one
night as they flew wide open, 700-horsepower strong
beside the commercial dock; a hundred yards from the
mooring field they chopped their throttles, gunned the
motors at full throttle, chopped them again....
Apparently they were mimicking the local pirogues by
rn-in, t- .. h-- high they can make the bow rise. I,
:.. i ... ... .. ,I i.. have seen the Coast Guard board
one boat. This was because the captain of this particu
lar catamaran fell asleep while coming from Grenada
and hit a local trawler.
Another hail to the Coast Guard is their idea of filing
a "sail plan" from Trinidad to Grenada and vice versa.
The last boat arriving from Grenada filing this "sail
plan" attempted to contact TTCG for hours via VHF and
mobile phone, to let them know they had arrived safely
with no response. The cruisers finally had to have
YSATT call the Coast Guard. However, if you're on the
beach wearing a G string or want to race your boat...
they've got you covered, Babe! (Call the Venezuelan
Guardia Costa instead for even less concern.)
Pirogues, TTCG, the Harbor Pilot boat (the worst),
and 90 percent of all the power boats fly through the
mooring field and by all of the marinas creating tre
mendous wakes. I helped an elderly British couple
dock at the Customs steel-and concrete boat demoli
tion dock Mr. Llewellyn referred to, and at Power
Boats, because they had no chance alone with
pirogues flying by w,,,. two and three foot wakes
that reverberated I ', all. This is the rule, not the
exception. I I ... i i a i ,i ,i -out of ignorance,
disrespect, .... i i i. s had many com-
plaints about this, including one from me. It is a dan
gerous activity and one must keep a close eye out
constantly, especially at night as they also run with no
lights on for the most part. Mr. Stollmeyer is equally
in the dark again I guess.
I would also have to agree with Mr. Llewellyn that
the floating garbage problem is one of the worst in the
world. To think locals swim and play in this hepatitis-,
tetanus and e coli laced crap should be enough to get
any government or legitimate organization to address
the problem, let alone Mr. Stollmeyer to at least
acknowledge the safety concern, but what do they do?
Th ---rnmnt 't-rts a -.i. -;.. tD promote eco
........ 1i i .... as m ... I i1, ,, cleaner neigh
bors have done! Denial.
I further agree with Mr. Llewellyn's assessment of
,i. ......... -i iulation. Only a year ago we could not
I... i ... .... )r place to anchor. Finally, we had to
i i to the west among the commercial
boats. Now I rarely see a day without a vacant mooring
ball. Many marinas are almost empty or partially full.
If YSATT (Mr. Stollmeyer) estimates an approximately
30 percent loss of business... blame it all on the
economy? Don't think so.
The solution. If the police and Coast Guard could
possibly be persuaded to do their jobs i.e. catch
thieves, stop wakes, stop looking at these new-fangled
boats as toys it could only help. If Mr. Stollmeyer
and other Trinidadians would realize how much
income cruisers bring into their economy...
Continued on next page
. Saint Lucia
saint lucia west indies
Read in Next
S1 '1 I I 11111111*.l
,LII N xI ',,I llIll i g 1 I-,-
Cruising The Forgotten
Caribbean', Part One: The DR
Carriacou Regatta Festival 2010
... and more!
Continuedfrom previous page
...(a tired old line) and that they do have a choice to,
and in fact do, go elsewhere as Trinidad isn't a bargain
and isn't safe anymore, some of the problems may be
solved. Someone is going to have to acknowledge that
this area has the highest crime rate aimed at cruisers
in the entire Caribbean and take action. Otherwise,
with attitudes like Stollmeyer's, Trinidad will continue
losing business and possibly lives. In many ways
cruisers are a i..il 1 ...i community, especially in
times of need, ., i i I' disrespect and arrogance
Stollmeyer showed a fellow cruiser with legitimate
complaints, my family will not be returning any time
soon once our repairs are made.
I sincerely apologize for this laborious decision to the
hard working, decent people, including YSATT mem-
bers and employees, that we've met here who do
understand business and professionalism as well as
Editor's note: We have offered Mr. Stollmeyer the
opportunity to respond. His reply appears below.
Dear Compass Readers,
I apologize if my reply to Mr. Llewellen's letter led
anyone to think I was saying everything in Trinidad is
fine. This is far from what I intended and I would have
i1, .1i, my opening statement, quote, "...I would be
1 I to agree that Trinidad is not perfect and is of
course open to legitimate criticism..." would have indi
cated my position. As to Mr. Minks' accusation that I
am in a state of denial, hardly likely; I have recognized
shortcomings and have been trying to improve
Trinidad's yachting product for far too long to possibly
be in a state of denial.
Be that as it may, Mr. Llewellen's letter clearly
sought to convey an extremely negative viewpoint, one
that would severely discourage any open-minded
cruiser from visiting Trinidad when, in fact, there is a
huge amount of good and a plethora of wonderful
experiences awaiting cruising visitors, many of which
are not available in the other islands.
Let me refer to just a few examples in Mr. Llewellen's
letter based on my personal experiences:
Islands of rubbish. I have sailed in and out of
Trinidad on countless occasions and I have never
come across an island of rubbish.
The Customs dock. I have tied up to the Customs
dock day and night (many islands do not even have a
Customs dock) and I have never had a problem with
the dock or the wakes from passing boats.
The "stolen" no-wake zone sign. The no-wake sign
was removed when a building was erected in its loca
tion many years ago; it was not stolen.
The oil industry displacing howler monkeys. I have
been working in Chaguaramas harbour since 1981
and I have never seen a howler monkey here, so what
could possibly lead Mr. Llewellen to say, "The oil
industry does not rest. The howler monkeys don't
stand a chance."?
I can give many more examples but, however I look
at it, I can only conclude the purpose of Mr. Llewellen's
letter is to denigrate and to do so in the extreme.
I wish to repeat and make it very clear: my position
is that there are several aspects of the yachting prod
uct in Trinidad/Chaguaramas that need to be
improved. Yes, there is rubbish in the sea, yes the
Customs dock could be improved, yes there is need to
i 1... 1 .. from driving through the harbour,
Si i ,ii, i I, present time many of these short
comings are actively being worked upon by a govern
ment-appointed committee that I now chair, in col
laboration with the Yacht Services Association of
Trinidad & Tobago (YSATT). I don't think this indicates
"denial". It will take some time to address all the issues
but I can assure the yachting community the issues
are being worked upon. In the meantime, regardless of
the shortcomings, there is a need for a balanced view
and an appreciation for the many, many posi
tive aspects of Trinidad.
Trinidad has been a lot in the news recently, mostly
with : .1- 1 to the one attempted and one completed
act ol I against yachts en route from Grenada,
the successful one being the last (in December 2009).
In addition, prior to that there were some suspicious
activities dealt with without consequence.
James Pascal of the Marine and Yachting Association
of Grenada (MAYAG) was very good about keeping us
informed of some of the measures that have been pro
posed, and some put in place, to keep yachts safe on that
passage. These measures were all very sensible but ori
ented toward defense. It seemed to me what we needed
was a very offensive, proactive approach by the Trinidad
& Tobago Coastguard. They needed to get out there, find
out what all those Venezuelan pirogues were up to in
their waters, and let them know Trinidad was not going
to allow a bunch of thugs to terrorize their seas.
While the T&T Coastguard is very tight-lipped about
their activities, I have had several reports from differ
ent sources that they have done just this, and I believe
it. Had they done nothing, I would have expected to see
more attempts at piracy. As it is, hundreds of boats
have sailed between Trinidad and the other islands
since December and I have not heard even one report
of suspicious activity in the passage. I would like to
congratulate the Trinidad & Tobago Coastguard and
hope they continue with these patrols, so we can con
tinue to sail to Trinidad with confidence.
If the pirates were returning drug runners looking
out for extra booty (that would explain the guns and
number of people in a pirogue), I would imagine the
extra heat that has been applied by the coastguard to
their activities would make their bosses take a very
dim view of their extracurricular activities.
I sailed from Grenada to Trinidad in June this year,
in daylight hours in rather calm weather, and my
experience leads to me think that you would have to
very judicious about applying a pirate trapline behind
the boat, as has been -... -i 1 by some readers in
Compass. There were : ... i ..- onboard. As we were
approaching Trinidad I went below to clean up a mess.
When I came back on deck, the rest of the crew report
ed that a Venezuelan fishing pirogue had zoomed close
by with two fishermen waving in a friendly manner.
None of my crew noticed it till it was quite close. I
would not want to damage an innocent boat or friend
ly fishermen. As long as they are not endangering my
boat they have a right to pass close by.
It is a shame that we have not heard more about the
activities of the T&T Coastguard, as I think YSATT is
correct in suggesting that the decrease in yachting
visitors in Trinidad is due to fears of piracy. The picture
of Trinidad painted by Ron Llewellyn in July's Compass
was so negati-' T thinl- hH mn-t P, -'i-in- it through
antifouling 1 i I I . could see,
it was the same old Trinidad. Power Boats was booked
solid, and both Peake Yacht Services and Coral Cove
had plenty of boats, although they were not full. Yes,
Trinidadians can be pretty bad about throwing their
fast-food boxes overboard, but it has always been that
way. I found everyone was very upbeat about the recent
election and rather optimistic, and I certainly enjoyed
my stay. Any downturn in business is, from a cus
tomer's point of view, an opportunity to get work done
by people who are more competitive and keen.
Like Ruth Lund, who wrote about her Trinidad
"home from home" in the June issue of Compass, my
female peers are protected by age from being subjected
to the "pssssf' of admiring workers. This is not the
most endearing feature of Caribbean culture, but it
has certainly been around a long time. Many, many
years ago I was married to a young Swede and it drove
her nuts, though it did not intimidate her. The final
straw came when she was with another young Swedish
woman in a restaurant in St. Vincent. She heard the
usual "psssf behind her and she turned to give its
sender the evil eye and ask him if the noise she heard
was the sound of his balls deflating. But before she
could start he exclaimed: "Not you, the other one!"
In order to make it easy to file a "float plan" with
either coastguard, Grenada or Trinidad & .
have made out a form that other boaters :.... i i,, i
useful, for giving all the information required:
I would like to file a float plan for a trip departing
______ (departure port) at _(time) on
(date) bound for_ (arrival port).
I expect to arrive at (arrival port) at
around (time), when I will contact the coastguard
# of persons aboard
Radio equipment on board
Float plans can be filed leaving Trinidad by e-mail to
firstname.lastname@example.org or by phone at (868) 634-1476.
Float plans can be filed leaving Grenada by phone at
In April my husband and I sailed from les Iles des
Saintes to Portsmouth, Dominica.
I had read in Chris Doyle's book that "boat vendors"
there could be quite aggressive. I was also told this by
a British woman while riding on a bus tour in the
Bahamas. On the bus, another woman and I were dis
cussing our reluctance to visit some of the countries
that describe these vendors as being pushy. She and I
were 'win? hn. n-ur personalities are not the kind to
"take .. .... - behaviour. Overhearing our con
versation, the British woman who has encountered
that type of vendor shared her handling methods:
"Just tell them to go away. They will come up to you
when anchoring. Tell them to piss off, that you are
busy now and to come back later. Be direct, look them
right in the eye and be firm."
Armed now with the "right technique", off we trav
-1-1 hl--in. no problems of this kind in any of the
.... i' i. ... the Bahamas to the Saintes. Two miles
offshore from Portsmouth we were approached by the
first vendor, Faustin Alexis. With the motor running it
was difficult to converse, so before speeding off he
said, "If anyone there comes up to you, tell them you
are dealing with me". At approximately 5:00PM we were
in the anchorage and looking for a place to drop the
anchor, when we were approached by two other men
in a boat, wanting to sell us fruit. My husband
declined, saying we were "being looked after by Alexis".
(Chris' book said that if you tell them you have chosen
a vendor to deal with, that the others will respect that
and depart.) The two men responded by saying they
are different than Alexis and that they sell only fruit.
My husband then further declined, saying that right
now we were busy trying to anchor, and would con
sider buying fruit another day. Angrily they left.
Then a third vendor approached me by the cockpit
on the starboard side of our boat. I was concentrating
on communicating with my husband to anchor. The
man was shirtless and had no identification on the
side of his boat. He tried to engage me in conversation,
and, using the technique I'd been coached in, I
responded tersely saying we were busy and would pre
fer to discuss business with him tomorrow. He per
sisted and I kypt tr'in- t- put him off. Finally he said,
"You are not :.. .. I I ....... ...- are friendly, happy
people. You are not welcome in Dominica."
In the meantime, two further vendors had come to
the boat, one on my port side, the other at the bow
talking to my husband. That vendor was telling my
husband that he "had to buy a Dominican courtesy
flag". My husband said th .1 i. .- i I .... the
snubber line in place and ,,i i .... I I I .. .. nce
we had cleared Customs. The vendor kept badgering
him that he "must buy a flag". The vendor who had
told me I was not welcome then approached the bow,
looked my husband in the eye and said, "You better
leave, you are not welcome here". Taking this as a
threat, and '-;. ; r-tri-; ti-n to ourselves or our
property, we I ... ... .. I departed. While we
were lifting it, yet another vendor was paddling out on
a board. A total of six vendors had approached us, and
we were surrounded by one at each corner of our boat
when trying to anchor.
Finding a quiet spot further south we anchored for the
evening. We were tired, hungry, stressed and scared.
Early the next morning we departed for Martinique, our
plans to stop in Roseau, Dominica abandoned.
While under sail between Dominica and Martinique
we heard a noise, and after investigating we discovered
our drive shaft that had broken. Now under sail we
tried to reach St. Lucia as the guidebooks outlined
extensive repair facilities there. The wind died and the
current took us offshore. We bobbed at sea for six days
with no wind. With our frustration growing, and know
ing we would not make St. Lucia, we sailed wanting to
make landfall anywhere we could. On the seventh day
we were nine miles off the south coast of land
Dominica! We radioed "Pancho Yacht Services" who,
not having a big enough boat to tow us that distance,
enlisted the help of his competitor "Sea Cat" who had
a larger boat. Three hours later we were safely secured
to a Sea Cat mooring ball in the Roseau harbour.
Pancho, Sea Cat, and all the Dominicans we met from
there on in couldn't have been more helpful.
We stayed in Dominica three more weeks to pull the
transmission and get a replacement shaft and univer
sal joints. We used the services of MDM Enterprises in
Canefield, managed by Alan Morris. Alan drove us in
his car to four scrap yards to locate the correct shaft.
He was totally commit i I II.... 'is operational,
and even re-welded the o...... .i 1 1 i that we would
have a spare in case the new one should break.
Knowing we still had a great distance to travel before
the start of hurricane season, Alan worked almost
around the clock, juggling his other customer orders
in order to have our repair done in three days. We
enjoyed a lovely meal with his wife, son and daughter,
and we saw them many times during our stay there.
They could not have been more accommodating.
Vendors should know that when we cruisers are com-
ing fit- n n;-.- r r- we are ti--- hnn'r- ftrn newto
the .. ... i I ... i certain .... ..... I -. - I know
that when we were surrounded in Portsmouth I only felt
scared and threatened, not at all feeling the "happy
friendliness" the aggressive vendor described. Because
of this I will never go back to Portsmouth in Dominica.
I will choose to spend my hard-earned money elsewhere
(it should be noted that between repairs, mooring fees,
towing charges, -; r;i- r'.t '-. f- s, restaurants,
etcetera we spent 1 I - ... I ...
I will not employ the "dismissive" method with any
future vendors, but will smile and politely decline
The Portsmouth vendors would be well advised to
adopt the approach of the vendors in Bequia. There
they come close to you, but unless you initiate conver
station or wave them over to you, they do not come to
your boat. It boils down to respect.
Continued on next page
continued from previous page
No country should allow bullying of visitors, because
guess what? They don't come back.
Name Withheld by Request
Editor's note: As Name Withheld mentioned she'd got
ten advice about the vendors in Portsmouth from Chris
Doyle's book, we asked Chris for his comments, which
Dear Name Withheld,
I am happy that you managed, after some frustra
tions, to find how helpful and welcoming people can be
in Dominica. You even managed the impossible: to get
"arch-rivals" Pancho and Sea Cat working harmoni
You may have had a very old guide of mine, because
I do not think I have called the vendors in Portsmouth
pushy for many years. My current section on these
men starts off:
"Dominica has an exemplary group of young men
who provide the main yacht services for yachts. Not
only will they help you get fruits, bread and ice, take
your laundry, find a technician, and act as a water
tax. I ..I 1 . II 11. . .. i1. .. .. calledd PAYS
(Po .... ... .I I .. . I 1. - which pro
vides security, helps maintain dinghy docks, and tries
to make sure yachts have a good stay."
Then I do add: "Be wary of others, especially those
that paddle out on surfboards. This is the way some
y-nn 1'-- start up (I first met Jeffrey this way),
. I i... but one or two crack-addicts are also out
there. If you have any problems with any vendor, call
Sea Bird (Jeffrey), the current president, or failing him,
another PAYS member."
It sounds to me like all the crack-heads descended
on you at once! However, most of us have not had as
much hostility as you described since the bad old days
of many years ago. Had you stayed, I am sure Faustin
Alexis would have sorted things out for you.
In your letter it does seem that on arrival you were
somewhat apprehensive, and when people tell you
things like "tell them to piss off' the emotional tone of
this maybe put you even more on your guard. So it could
be unruly vendors plus your apprehensions fed into the
way you dealt with them, and managed to make the
situation worse than it need have been. I must say when
I have told people to "Please wait till I have anchored,
then I will talk with you", they have always agreed. If I
am dealing with someone I am not sure about, my policy
is to ask his name first thing. That way I know who I am
dealing with and if there is an altercation, I can be spe
cific if I want some help dealing with it
I hope one day you try Portsmouth again, and find
out how nice it can be. My suggestion is you contact
one of the good guys in advance and have him meet
you as come in to anchor.
Chris Doyle, author
Cruising Guide to the Leeward Islands
Dear Compass Readers,
I have given the schooner Satori to Martin Jennett of
Union Island, St. Vincent & the Grenadines. Martin is
someone I do not really know personally but I do know
a little of what he has done in the world of traditional
sailing. I read of him and his rebuilding of the school
ner Scaramouche in the Grenadines. To say the least,
I admire him and what he is doing: chartering old tra
ditional sailing vessels, rebuilding them and bringing
them back to life.
He will bring Satori back to life to sail again, some
thing I can't do anymore. For want of a better explana
tion, after 16 years I lost what Rocky (in the movie)
called "the eye of the tiger". So when you are down
island and see Satori sailing again we can all thank
Martin and what he is doing in the sailing world!
Dear Compass Readers,
Well, there we were, through the Canal, the Picton
Castle moored in hot steamy Balboa on the Pacific side
of the Isthmus of Panama, getting ready to shove off
into the broad South Pacific Ocean, working hard to
get provisioned and stowed, saili;.' ti-- i--n. i; -1---n
on us and we had to get this :. ......... i i .... I
for the legendary sloop Mermaid and her skipper of
long renown, John Smith. The Mermaid is a 50-foot
wooden working sloop built in Carriacou without an
engine in the 1960s. So many like her were built for
trading in the Grenadines, fishing and maybe once in
a while a leetle bit of ...... 1.... f rum, whiskey and
cigarettes from St. Ba. 'I I I that island blew up
and became a jet-set destination. With jutting bow
sprit and a raking mast she is little different than the
. i11 .i i 1. .. did their deeds o'swash
i i ... .. I i aribbees.
In Anguilla, with Captain Kevin Gray's masterful
help and encouragement, we got the sailcloth landed
in from Doyle's in Barbados. Then we immediately
laid out and cut the sail and seamed it up on our big
machine at Roy's Place on the beach at Sandy
Ground. We did the second layout there, too, right
away in order to get the final dimensions and table
ings. On the way to Bonaire (even though we did not
know we were going to Bonaire) we sewed up the tab
leings and corner patches with our small machine. In
Bonaire, with a nice clean dock available, we got the
big machine out and sewed on all the other patches,
reef bands and the like. On the way to Panama the
gang sewed in grommets by hand, furiously even
working on night watch on the quarterdeck.
Now we had to rope it and stick on the .....1
it happens, we had an equally nice large ... .. .
ing dock at Isla Flamenco complete with -"1ninr qnd
light to work with. So Rebecca, Jo, Brad, i .I' . .
Nadja and others g 'i i i I done in time to toss
it on a small hop l .11. i *..I andWT to getit to
the Mermaid at Boca Del Toro and bent on to see what
it looked like. We think it will be a strong sail. Maybe
a few too many barefoot prints on it, but that adds to
the charm; John is a barefoot kind of guy, Mermaid is
a barefoot kind of vessel....
Daniel Moreland, Captain
Many Compass letter writers have offered comments
on that large South American landfall south of
Grenada, so here is our two cents worth.
After sailing the Eastern Caribbean, we think
Venezuela is underappreciated as a cruising destina
tion. It has some of the best waters and scenery in the
Caribbean. Customs procedures to come and go are
not difficult. There are fewer marinas available in
Venezuela, and at least one, Bahia Redonda in Puerto
la Cruz, is a first class operation at bargain prices.
The country also has a much-discussed reputation
for being dangerous. During our year in Venezuela
we've met many other liveaboards and visitors. Some
have had security issues, occasionally serious. If you
go, learn what you can beforehand from reliable source
es and avoid known problem areas if possible. It also
doesn't hurt to be aware of the general political situa
tion, which is on the mind of virtually every Venezuelan
and determines important aspects of everyday life,
such as money exchange. Overall we feel that a little
advance planning, taking appropriate precautions and
being alert will give you the same level of safety as
anywhere else in the world.
Venezuelans on the whole are a gracious and wel
--i-n - 1- ---;- try to be helpful even if you are
Si ..- .. i your Spanish or lack of it. Looking
inland, the country has an amazing variety of sights to
offer. As in some other countries, we are still puzzled
that 1-n -li=t:.-- bus operators don't seem to know
the I.II .. I veen air conditioning for passengers
S.. i ... .. ,, So if you choose to explore the inte
r. I 1. ...... by road, bring a few warm clothes.
Altogether, Venezuela is i'- .. ,,. ..ttry and
worth a visit, without the i ...
Larry and Debra
This cruising season, we decided to venture over to
the mysterious east coast of Martinique. Stopping first
at Le Marin on the south coast, we were stunned by
the incredible number of yachts there, perhaps as
many as 500. Next we were astounded by the several
cruisers we met in Le Marin who were mortified that
we intended to visit the east coast, even though none
of them had ever cruised there themselves! Lastly, we
were absolutely delighted with what a wonderful little
-.r=n r-~;;n-1 ti- --.t 1-le offers, and were amazed
I I... I i .1 1,, .11 ' cruises there.
In two lovely weeks cruising from Le Marin up to La
Caravelle and the Baie du Tresor, we met only one
(yes, only one!) other cruising yacht. In spite of the
availability of Jerome Nouel's truly outstanding cruis
ing guide, Martinique's east coast is absolutely the
Caribbean's best-kept secret.
Although small (it stretches only about 25 miles from
Martinique's southeast tip up to the northeast tip at La
Caravelle), the east coast is a marvel of a cruising
ground. It offers the adventurous "just anchor behind
the reef and hope it doesn't blow too hard" kind of
anchorages but also has many well-protected, deep and
calm coves surrounded by Martinique's verdant land
scapes. Best of all, the area offers both types of anchor
... ii.... ... I i .. thin only few miles
I 1 i I I .. .... i ... bucolic pastureland
... 1 11 ii i i .., i ,,- classic "palm trees on
. ... .. I~~ ..I .. i. I .. rier reef called Loup
Garou. The "fonds blancs" (white bottomed lagoons) of
Baignoire de Josephine (Josephine's Bathtub) and the
Isle de Madame are gorgeous areas for picnicking, snor
keling and just enjoying nature. In many anchorages,
very good, shallow and calm snorkeling can be found
just by hopping off your stem. There are quite a few
. -.... .. s and activities: bird rookeries; a colony
I .... I rare, endemic iguanas; the ruins of an
impressively large pottery factory; the park trails
around Pointe Caracoli, where r-i-l1-nt -in---- -1-i -
stunning views can be found. I -. .i- I I
-in-iiiFn th-r .- ---- . -uple of small and pleasant
..- ... ... i i that are easily reached for
groceries or a patisserie.
Continued on page 45
Admiral Marine Ltd, 4 Brna Centre, Blakey Rd, Sasbury, SP 2L
Email quotes@dmiryachtcom Web wwwadmiralyachtcom
Tel +44 (0)1722 416106 Fax +44 (0)1722 324455
Admiral Manne Limited s authored & regulated bytheFinancial Seri ces Author
in the Lloyds market
) ---- -. -----
S "I'l do my best to minimizeyour ncreasel"
There is goodnsurance,there is cheap
Insurance, but there is no good cheap
Insurance. You never know how good
your Insurance is until you have a claim.
My claims settlement record
Cannot be matched.
I have been connected with the marine insurance
business for 47 years. I have developed a rapport
with brokers and underwriters at Lloyds and am
able to introduce boat owners to specialist brokers
in the Lloyds market.
Any Crag, Any Oe, Any A AnywAre.1
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Dear Compass Readers,
Frank Virgintino's Letter of the Month in the May issue of Compass
presented an excellent justification for following the "Thornless Path to
Windward" from the US East Coast to the Caribbean, and for cruising
the Dominican Republic and the western Caribbean. In it, he takes me
to task for ignoring those latter areas.
A look back in history will explain why I have always written about
the area east of a line running from Mona Island to Aruba and why I
have always urged the offshore passage from the East Coast to the
Eastern Caribbean rather tl ..' tl. i... through the Bahamas.
In 1956, when I fled the .... .- i York, the yachtsman head
ing south really had only two cruising-destination choices, the
Bahamas or the Lesser Antilles. Haiti was under the control of Papa
Doc and his henchmen. Trujillo ran the Dominican Republic, and
luxuriated in his private yacht Sea Cloud To stop a civil war, the US
Marines were sent into the DR in 1965. In both countries yachts were
fair game to be fleeced by Customs, Immigration, the Police and any
official who had a gun.
The Bahamas, ill lit and poorly charted, was a good place to avoid.
Moreover, from Turks & Caicos, the eastern end of the Bahamian
chain, it was a non-stop beat to windward of 240 miles to the western
end of Puerto Rico, or 320 miles on to San Juan. From the middle
1960s through the early '80s, The Bahamas was a major drug-traffick
ing route, making it unattractive to the innocent yachtsman. In those
days, the offshore passage from Morehead City or Beaufort direct to St.
Thomas was an attractive alternative to the Thornless Path.
Colombia was in the beginnings of a civil war between the Liberals
and Conservatives. Except in the Canal Zone and the San Bias Islands,
Panama was the Wild West.
The east coast of Central America was an area where the port cap
tains, Customs and Immigration officers all felt visiting yachts were
owned by rich gringos who should be relieved of their money. (The one
area of peace and tranquility in the western Caribbean was the Bay
Islands, which became very popular with yachtsmen from Tampa as it
was a fairly easy 630-mile sail, easier than the sail to the Eastern
Caribbean of about 1,400 miles, some 1,200 miles of which would be
dead to windward.)
In the late 1950s early '60s, Venezuela was having a problem with
student strikes and riots, to the point that the government closed all
the universities. Castro was smuggling guerillas in to Venezuela via
boats. In a couple of instances, the Venezuelan Coast Guard mistook
yachts for boats trying to smuggle in Castro's guerillas and fired at
them. Luckily no one was killed. Needless to say this situation made
cruising the Venezuelan coast and offshore islands unappealing.
In contrast to the above-enumerated problems, the Eastern Caribbean
was peaceful, law abiding and well run. Puerto Rico and the US Virgin
Islands were US governed, the British islands were all still colonies run
by a British-appointed governor who had real authority backed up by
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a police force trained at the Police Academy in Barbados. (Once trained,
officers were not assigned to their native island. A small percentage of
police on any island was local, and was usually in the top ranks, having
served on other islands for many years.) The French islands were well
run by officials from Metropolitan France. Customs and Immigration
was no problem in the French islands -they ignored yachts com-
I bought the engineless lolaire in February 1957 and started cruising,
then chartering and exploring. There were very few yachts in the entire
Eastern Caribbean then. There were about 15 based in St. Thomas,
three in St. Croix, one in Tortola, eight or ten in Antigua, a couple in
Trinidad.... The old British establishment in Barbados had an active
small-boat racing fleet.
As years went by, boats flocked to the Eastern Caribbean. As the
island chain became more developed, lolaire and I looked for new areas
to explore. In the middle '60s Dr. Daniel Camejo and Rolly Edmunds
came from Venezuela to cruise the Eastern Caribbean. They assured
me the problem with the Venezuelan Coast Guard firing at yachts was
over and persuaded me to sail to Venezuela and enjoy the wonderful
cruising along the coast and offshore islands. Dr. Camejo, who was just
starting the El Morro development west of Puerto La Cruz, offered to
grubstake me to do extensive cruising and pl-rinf This led to my
1980 (revised in 1989) Guide to Venezuela, rr i. Islands, and
ABC Islands, plus the Imray Iolaire charts of the area, which opened
the area to the cruising yachtsman. lolaire was the first foreign yacht
to extensively cruise this area. We enjoyed fantastic cruising there until
1995, when we felt things began to go downhill.
I hope this letter has explained why, to this WPOF (Well Preserved
Old Fart), "the Caribbean" is the Eastern Caribbean. It also explains my
reasons for urging heading south from the US East Coast via an off
shore passage and downplaying the "Thornless Path" in the past.
But times have changed. Political stability has apparently finally
arrived in the Dominican Republic, as illustrated by the number of new
hotels and marinas that have been established. The shakedown of vis
iting yachts, in effect a couple of years ago, has reportedly ended.
Until a few years ago, the Caribbean coasts of Colombia and Panama
were a dangerous area for a yacht and to obtain insurance to cruise
there was almost impossible. Now, however, both governments are
working with the US Coast Guard -1 i i ... .......1.... These coasts
have apparently become among tII. I ...- I the
yachtsman in the entire Caribbean. Driven by a combination I 1
officialdom,',--1- 1 1. -.--. .- 1 -.- many adventurous yachts-
men have he I -I I i .... I I *... w available for much of the
western Caribbean. It is interesting to note there are two guides to
Panama and the San Bias islands: The Panama Guide by Nancy and
Tom Zydler, and A Complete Sailors Guide to The Isthmus of Panama by
Eric Bauhaus. I advise buying BOTH guides: cross check one against
the other then choose your anchorage.)
Taking the "Thornless Path to Windward" to the Dominican
Republic, then cruising the Dominican Republic and sailing on to
explore Jamaica, perhaps Cuba, and the western Caribbean is now a
Ahoy, Compass Readers! When in Chaguaramas Trinidad or in Tobago, pick
up your free monthly copy of the Caribbean Compass at any of these locations
(this month's advertisers in bold), courtesy of our Compass Agent
in Trinidad & Tobago.
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Bago's Beach Bar,
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Bay Island Yachts
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Customs & Immigration Offices
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The Lure, Sweetwater Marinr
WHATS ON MY MIND
1)0 IT YOURSELF!
by Roland O'Brien
What is a boy from southern Vermont, where there isn't a lake large enough to sail, doing sailing the Caribbean?
Fair question. Canoes and kayaks were the largest vessels able to navigate the West River and the small ponds in
the area where I grew up. Bullhead fishing was the only nighttime activity on the water. Now I'm making night
passages and dodging cruise ships.
Several years ago, my wife, Kathleen, and I bought a 41-foot Coronado freshwater boat and started purchasing
and installing the necessary gear for spending some years in the Caribbean. We bought nearly all the gear we
needed on eBay, then installed it ourselves, as we had a low budget and planned on living on retirement income
only. At one point we had more than 600 transactions on eBay: some sales, but mostly purchases -everything
from fishing gear to new ball valves, chart-plotters, a wind generator, radar, autohelm, single-sideband radio gear
and a power windlass.
Now, after nearly five years in the Caribbean, we continue to maintain the boat ourselves, only purchasing nec
essary equipment for repairs and doing the installation without outside help. Some repairs we've had to do were
simple, others very complex. We learned
as we sailed. Sometimes the work we
accomplished was fun, other times com-
plete drudgery, but at least it was ours,
I -j z when things didn't work out quite the
way we planned. As the old tried and
true statement goes, "Cruising is just
r^ working on your boat in exotic places."
And, we did, all the way from the Erie
Canal to Venezuela and many island
nations in between.
Recently a couple of instances when
S"we paid a professional (off the boat),
S A caused us to think about the many
Things we have had to do over the past
few years. The most recent time we
hired a professional was to replace a
couple of pieces of damaged or broken
lifeline. The gate, which is used fre
than quently, had broken a wire so the
resulting hook became both a hazard to
the hands as well as one of those safety
of features that require immediate action.
S. The section from the gate to the stern
no"ced e ... rail was also looking rather poorly, so
e H the two pieces were taken to a profes
Look, Ma all assembled and ready to weld! And we did it ourselves sional rigger. After looking at the pieces
A e-1 e r. same, we b ru a i-g-n l
.. .. $86. That -....I I .,
so we left the parts and came back the next day to pick up the new replacements. The price on the invoice was
$125. Seems the ma: I,-. li.e job had neglected to add labor costs. And, to make matters worse, when back
at the boat, the new -,I ,, I p I, was two inchcg t-- 1-1:
In retrospect what we should have done was 1.- I .. i .. .. I 11 .. .- .id the less than ten feet of cable
at one of the chandleries (or from the rigger) and borrow a I .- ...... ... another boater. Total cost, less
than $60. Fortunately, we were able to swap port to starboard rear lifelines and were able (barely) to use the lon
ger lifeline on the other side.
A previous use of a sail shop professional was similar, except that the workmanship was fine. We arrived at the
time requested to pick up a sail that had needed some minor -ii i..... When told the sail was not ready, we
noticed the young man just about to start working on our sail. told to come back in 45 minutes, which
we did. However, when the invoice was prepared it had a price for labor that amounted to one and a half hours
(their labor rate is known). Sometimes we will have a small repair accomplished locally instead of doing it ourselves
to help keep the local service companies in business, but one wonders about their pricing schemes.
Another, earlier, sail repair request was met with less than enthusiasm. When we asked about having a leech
line added to our mainsail, the man wouldn't look us in the eye, would not provide an estimate of cost or number
of days we might expect for completion. And, to top it off, the operator of the sail loft said, "Besides, I'm closing
early for Christmas." Total non responsiveness. Sounds like general complaining on our part? Not really. It just
reinforces the reason we 1 ...1, .1 .ig our old Pfaff 130 sewing machine which does zig zag stitching and can
handle most sail repairs. .I ... spare sail material in six inch widths, installed the leech line and stitched
the cover over the entire leech. Cost? About six hours of our time.
Cruisers should not be afraid to tackle repair jobs on their own. For example, when our watermaker stopped
functioning we took the pump apart and located the problem. The manufacturer provides manuals, which can be
downloaded from the Internet free of charge. All necessary troubleshooting suggestions were provided along with
pictures and spare parts break outs. Another item that r .... I ... .. .. .. l over temperature condition
with our inverter. Upon disassembly it was found that tI II j ,.- I II. -..... II cooling fans had failed (salt
air corrosion strikes again!), and it was only necessary to clean, prepare, and re solder the joints.
Our engine exhaust pipe, which runs from the manifold to the muffler, rusted through. We stopped in Vieux
Fort, on the extreme south end of Saint Lucia. Vieux Fort's claim to fame is that the island's international airport
is located there. Incidentally, its an excellent airport. The town appears quite impoverished and is in need of major
renovations, to put it politely. However, we were able to locate all the steel pipefittings and flexible pipe we need
ed, and even get the assembly welded. The search for the items and the welc ..- ...I -, ,,. and we got to meet
some new local people who turned out to be very responsive. The "forced :.... I,. taken in search of
parts can be part of the fun and provide great memories.
A recent challenge presented itself when we shut down the engine after a 100 mile journey (the wind stopped
halfway so we motor sailed the remainder of the trip). We noticed that the bilge pump was still running but with
no resultant drop in bilge level. Upon disassembly of the pump we found that a pop rivet that holds a rubber check
valve against a stainless steel grate had failed. The repair, si... 1 .... 1. grind a little bit and push out the
original rivet remains, then reinstall a new rivet. The pump is I ,, I ... low. Will the problem happen again?
Yes, owing to not having a stainless steel pop rivet available. Aluminum and steel combined, or even all aluminum,
won't last long in that environment. Occasionally, one has to improvise. Logically, we should obtain a few stainless
steel pop rivets and make a more permanent fix.
The satisfaction of knowing how to do many more i,,, .- than when we started makes it all worthwhile. Again,
we feel that cruisers should be able to repair most, 1I ,, I all, items on their boat. Of course for some, certain
things must be left to the professionals, and items occasionally need replacement. It's not as easy as back home
where you could just take your auto to your favorite mechanic and just say, "Please fix it." Out on the water many
times there is no mechanic or marina just down the street. So, give it a try yourself, you might just be very proud
of the results.
For a fast sale to Eopen buyers,
list you boat with us in LS$
Pat -Rpar Servic
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Duty-Free Engines for Yachts T~-NTA
96' UTILITY TUG
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Incredible interior, cork floors,
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appliances, whirlpool tub, hot tub.
Priced to sell $475,000 Located BVI
Unfortunately "Primrose" whilst being readied for launching, was dropped onto
the forefoot of the bow and has suffered damage to the forward bow area
below the waterline. The mainmast also broke at the spreaders causing rigging
and mainsail damage due to the Hood in-mast furling system.
This is a fantastic opportunity to lovingly restore this fine M
vessel, for either personal use or resale. We invite interested
parties to inspect the vessel, which is lying in Grenada. For
an appointment, please call Mr. George Robinson at: 1 (473) MU.I=n
4401193 or 1 (473) 407 5369.
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Compass Point Marina, 6300 Est. Frydenhoj, Suite 28,
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Tel: (340) 779-1660
Fax: (340) 779-2779
42' 1971 Grand Banks 46' 20
CG Cert. 42 passengers Twin h
Excellent condition $99,000 Great C
34' 1983Hunter Freshwater boat, well equipped
40' 2001Jeanneau Sun Odyssey, 3 strms, great condition
44' 1977 CSY Excellent cruiser, great condition
60' 1982Nautical Ktch 4 staterooms, great charter vessel
30' 2002 Hydrocat 300X Exp. CC Obv.Twr, Diesel Ymrs 230HP, exc. cond. 69,000.00
32' 2003 Sea Ray 350HP Mercruisers 95,000.00
34' 1989 Sea Ray Express Twin Diesels, 465 hrs. Genset, A/C 55,000.00
48' 1999 Dyna Craft MY Cruiser with, 435HP, 2 Strms, A/C, Low Hrs. 299,500.00
Call, fax or visit our website for a complete list of boats for sale
1 Carriacou Regatta
1 Emancipation Day. Public holiday in Barbados, Grenada, Guyana,
Jamaica, St. Lucia, St. Vincent & the Grenadines, and Trinidad & Tobago
Emancipation Day celebrated in some countries on the 2nd
1 Emancipation Day Regatta, St. Lucia. St. Lucia Yacht Club (SLYC),
(758) 452-8350, email@example.com,
1 Pursuit Race St. Maarten to Anguilla. Sint Maarten Yacht Club (SMYC)
tel (599) 544-2075, fax (599) 544-2091, firstname.lastname@example.org, www.smyc.com
2 Carriacou Regatta
2 8 Tour des Yoles Rondes, Martinique. www.tourdesyoles.com
7 Marigot Bay Race Day, St. Lucia. SLYC
9- 10 Grenada Carnival. www.spicemasgrenada.com
16 22 57th San Juan International Billfish Tournament, Puerto Rico.
21 Round St. Lucia Non-Stop Race, SLYC
24 FULL MOON
28 Great Race (powerboats) from Chaguaramas, Trinidad
to Store Bay, Tobago
4-5 Back to Schools Regatta, Tortola. Royal British Virgin Islands Yacht Club
(RBVIYC), tel (284) 494-3286, email@example.com, www.rbviyc.net
6 Labor Day. Public holiday in USVI
10 Date statistically most likely to host a hurricane
12 Barbados National Dinghy Championships, Day One.
19 Barbados National Dinghy Championships, Day Two
23 FULL MOON
25 Open Sail to Norman Island, RBVIYC
All information was correct to the best of our knowledge at the time
this issue of Compass went to press but plans change,
so please contact event organizers directly for confirmation.
If you would like a nautical or tourism event listed FREE in our monthly calendar,
please send the name and date(s) of the event and the name
and contact information of the organizing body to
Diamona KocK. Martnique
FREE Caribbean Compass On-line FREE
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',, UNION ISLAND 4I,
TEL: (784) 458-3420 / (784) 485-6255
FAX: (784) 458-3797
EMAIL: I. @...., ,,i firstname.lastname@example.org
PHONE: 1 (784) 532 8006
Quality Services & the Best Prices
in the Caribbean
Fishing -Diving Yacht Equipment
Por Elizabeth, next to Porthole Restaurant
Electronics, marine electronics, 12 & 24 volts, inverters, lights,
n. a. ,.- .h .. -,. ....h '''.. I. ...h..' ..' I .1
I, ,I j. I, I ," I., .1h ,.
complete diving, snorkeling and fishing gear.
Phone: 784 458 3360 email@example.com
Hablamos Espahol Nous parlons Frangals
Wir sprechen Deutsch
The ONLY Duty Free Chandlery in BEQUIA
CARRIACOU REAL ESTATE
Land and houses for sale
For full details see our website:
or contact Carolyn Alexander at
Carrlacou Real Estate Ltd
Tel: (473) 443 8187 Fax: (473) 443 8290
We also handle Villa Rentals &
Property Management on Carriacou
Engineering, fabrication and
welding. Fabrication and repair of
stainless steel and aluminium items.
Nick Williams, Manager
Tel: (473) 536-1560/435-7887
S.I.M.S. Boatyard, True Blue, Grenada
continued on next page -
LUMBADIVE PADI Hewn
rynabw. K"bmwh, Cwnswu. Gnime"wesi bno*s
RK (4731443,85M CaC (473) 4574539
Skype: kiffOW" VH11i 16
Email: mm W kr-
Cirt ea Com as Iar e I IIl
Didier and Maria
Sails & Canvas (repairs & fabrication]
located at Carenantilles dockyard
Open Monday to Friday 8-1 2am 2-6pm
Saturday by appointment
tel/fax: (596] 596 74 88 32
T&IIZNJGX FbL. F-AGS?
Le Marnn. Marlinique
Port de Plaisance, 97290 Le Marin, Martinique, F.W.I.
Tel: 05.96.74.94.02 Fax: 05.96.74.79.19
S St. Lucia
R NEY Sail repairs, biminis,
awnings, new sails,
B i rigging, splicing,
S AIL S servicing of winches.
Agents for Doyle,
Furlex & Profurl
Tel: (758) 452-8648 or
,St. Lucia (758) 584- 0291
S 1,,-l in .1 1,,, -
,, ;,. fabrication
I I .. Director
Lawrence Lim Chee Yung
^Ia aLa 'Chinaman'.
Rehbd and ,
Fa1rication opulpits, stanchions, davits, chainplates,
ancor rets, solar panel ar es &more
Rodney Bay Boatyard, Gros Islet, St. Lucia
Tel: (758) 485-0665 or (758) 384-0665
e-mail: ..... 1 .... firstname.lastname@example.org
in blue building
before Bank of St.Lui i.i
at the Rodney Bay Boat ard.
Local menus and specials available!
Open Monday-Saturday from 09.00 until...
Tel: (758) 715-5458
continued on next page -
Karen special Yacht Crew Massage"
Rodney Bay Marina, Tel: (758) 715 4661
Karen O. Roberts
Diploma in Massage/SPA Therapy from Sweden
S I IIN EIS, S1. L -ia
I ,,.ll |i l ,.l.* -.
I ,lllll, '- I Ih ,,,l|ll ,,"
Tel: (758) 715-8719
HOUSE OF SEAFOOD ,
Steaks Seafood Pizzas
Marigot Bay, St Lucil
Third Generation local.
owned & operated.
Happy Hour All Day & "11 lJ.qh-
on our cocktails & b...r' "'
Free docking for yachts dining with us!
Free Water Taxi Pick Up
from your yacht to our dock!
5 and more people & captain eats for free!
Phone: 758-451-4772 VHF 16
St. Maarten/ St. Martin, collect
and deliver door to door
Packages Pick- up call:
Tel/Fax: + (599) 544-3276
Tel/Fax: + (305) 515-8388
ELECTRICAL LIMITED q0N~
*AC & D SYSTEMS
)Iih 0u04I0 MInWIQ& &Regtpim
(hai Ktrs & Ir.erfer fhaxwet
-.--- Su & d S"go"
..Banetii, Deetiqwcde Cra~nking
SRAD 4ASTeNVOL SOf. i
Home of the
S Year 50,000
ww~ dovlecaribbrnn coam
Puti-to irio to
PWave Piercing catamaran
S8,'8- V1 *0
2#0005- NU* RN
/* f$1 ar 1)ockli
*' *: D A dparreasl
Contnufrom page 39
Why are cruisers so intimidated by this area? It is
true that the area requires careful :' .. I. .. i" to
the numerous reefs, and that the t I .1 .1,1 is1
highly variable and can be surprisingly difficult depend
ing on slight changes in sky conditions. However, a
yacht can cruise the area and avoid the trickiest
.. ... ar gradually ease into them when
S and prudence permit. Some
anchorages are only accessible to yachts drawing less
than two metres, but these are the minority. Other
aspects that could be considered negatives are a lack
of marina facilities (there are a few marinas that cater
mainly to small power boats); obtaining fuel and water
is difficult (if not impossible); and there are very few
restaurants or bars.
i i.1. I to meet Jerome Nouel quite unex
....... ..r visit. Jerome has been -r
this area since coming to Martinique almost 1 .. -
ago. He confirmed that few yachts venture to the east
side, and was as perplexed as we were over it. We
sensed his real disappointment that more cruisers are
not enjoying this coast that he clearly loves so dearly.
Nouel's latest 2009 edition is in French; an English
version of earlier editions may still be available in
Martinique chandleries. The guide is comprehensive
and very well organized; offers concise, objective
advice (no ads and no restaurant reviews); the sketch
charts are self-explanatory and beautifully done; aeri
al photos of all anchorages are provided and speak the
sailk & can-'vas
i8^^44i j Fie,, P1?n R'j V I Tnrc.n
proverbial "thousands of words". With a little effort to
translate essential information, the guide can be very
useful even if French is not your first '-.; .
So many cruisers lament how crowd I 1. -, -lands"
have become, but an entire coastline awaits them on
the east side of Martinique!
Ruth and John Martin
S/Y Moon Dog
Dear Compass Readers,
We want to hear from YOU!
Please include your name, boat name or shoreside
address, and a way we can contact you (preferably by
e-mail) ifclarification is required.
We do not publish individual consumer complaints or
individual regatta results complaints. (Kudos are okay!)
We do not publish anonymous letters; however, your
name may be withheld from print at your request.
Letters may be edited for length, clarity and fair play.
Send your letters to:
Compass Publishing Ltd.
St. Vincent & the Grenadines
DOLLYS ANSWER: A marine plant
We're on the Web!
I C J R I B B E A
1986 Oyster435 135.000GB
YOUNG SUN 46Fr VENUS 1984 KETCH
fiberglass, vgc, new engine
2007, excellent live aboard
and cruiser. GPS RADAR,
VHF. Auto Pilot. EPIRB. SSB
Water Maker, Air-Con, Solar
Panels, Wind Generator &
more. Full specs at www.free-
Looking for a fast sale so
MAKE US AN OFFER!! Lying St
Lucia. E-mail email@example.com
or Tel (596) 696 90 74 29
wan.crt aajacksa iling.co
websco or to make
I .... E- 29orE-mail
BOATS FOR SALE IN TRINIDAD
Tel (868) 739-6449
Fiberglass hull. 671GM Diesel.
Based in Tyrell Bay Carriacou
Good price, negotiable
Tel (473) 415-9323
Lehmans, 7.5 knots. Bequia
suitable for refurbish. As is,
where is; US$11,003
Contact Clint or Orton King
Tel (784) 458-3099/383
36 ri AVO,-M], an ILIAC-
SLOOP copper fastenings,
good condition Tel (784)
458-4969 E-mail seabreeze-
pit, single owner, lovingly
maintained. Sailed through-
out the Caribbean and now
located in Trinidad. Ready
for you to start cruising tomor-
row. USD 189,999 E-mail
I BOATS FOR SALE
iu ;-.:iLDti .:n i JA
Tel: (758) 721-7007
34' BOWEN MARINE PIROGUE,
2-150 Mercury engines, needs
work, sitting in dry dock in St.
Lucia, survey is $75.000 EC$,
must sell, contact Janet at
(758) 723-6509 or Christine
SOFT WOODEN VESSEL
anchored in Carriacou. Tel:
-J J3-8730/ 457-5088/
54' 40 PASS. DAY CHARTER
CATAMARAN S/V Loafer Tel:
(868) 650-1914 E-mail
PURE BEQUIA HONEY availa-
ble from Trinity Point Apiary,
Bee Keeper Hodge Tayr, in
280ml Jars. Wholesale and
retail FOB Bequia. E-mail
Bequia Sweet, Sweet, Sweeti
or 1 bed studio apartment
Big verandah and patio,
stunning view, cool breeze.
Internet, cable TV. 2 weeks
minimum, excellent long-
term rates. Tel: (784) 495 1177
3" B.i'i* .i'O Li C I.,Ii r.ll
bath & cabin, 2-300hp Volvo,
40 + cruising speed, only 200
hrs, sacrifice asking $69K
OBO, includes trailer, exec.
cond. & maint., seldom used,
see pics & specs at www.
SunSeekerVI.com, Tel (941)
730-5036 Make Offers!
. .Ca jD jA Ij i i
known Classic The ultimate
trawler, houseboat or great
business opportunity. Totally
restored up to the original
standard. New planked bot-
tom, new propellers and
shafts, and much more.
Need to sell NOW i! See pic-
tures and all info at:
EXPLORE THE BEAUTIFUL ST.
JOHN RIVER, CANADA aboard
our Catalina 36. Rhannon
www cluecnarTers neTr
training available now in
INSURANCE Antigua by recognized com-
orldwide "A" pany ONDECK. Competent
0D US hospital Crew to Yachtmaster Ocean
Highest available. Please call (268)
option 562 6696 E mail eb@ondeck-
r -- oceanracing.com orvist us in
Antigua Yacht Club Marina,
Tel Falmouth Harbour, Antigua.
BEQUIA, KMS MARNE SERVICES
marine/land mechanical sernic-
VHF 68 KMS" Tel (784)530-
AND LIVE IN
VAKAUIt Uwn your own
SAILS AND CANVAS powerboat rental/tour US 5 per wod -Incude nome
EXCEPTIONALLY SPECIAL company in beautiful St address and numbers in count
DEALS athttp://doylecarib- Thomas, owner ready to Line drowings/photos accompany-
bean.com/specials.htm retire and willing to sell busi- ing clossifieds ore us$1 Pre-pald
ness for the price of the by Ihe 15th of the month No replies
TACKTICK WIRELESS/SOLAR boats. Business is 10 yrs. old.
INSTRUMENTS Discountprices: very profitable, and web
_Aawnaih eroc ---at-ccm pages come up on first (il REMEMBER
page of Google. US$75 000
YANMAR OUTBOARD DIESEL Tel: (340) 690-6015 to tell our advertisers you
36HPTriidad cell(868)650-1914 www.pocketyachtsvi.com saw their ad in Compass!
TORTOLA Busy, bay side, BVI
Arts and Craft center is look-
ing for a live-aboard couple
to help run the operation
next season. Ideal applicants
will be artistic, energetic,
organized, multi-ingual, with
and sales skills. For more info
please send CV to
CARRIACOU LAND, Lots and
multi-acre tracts. Great
views overlooking Southern
Grenadines and Tyrrel Bay.
EAST COAST FLORIDA,
Waterway condo near
Kennedy Space Center, all
amenities, sailboat slips.
LA POMPE, BEQUIA
Large 2 bedroom house and/
I ADVERTISERS INDEX
A&C Yacht Brokers Martinique
ABC Manne Curacao
Admiral Yacht Insurance UK
ARC Dynamic St Lucia
Art & Design Antigua
Art Fabnk Grenada
B & C Fuel Dock Petite Martinique
Bahia Redonda Manna Venezuela
Barefoot Yacht Charters St Vincent
Barrow Sails & Canvas Tnnidad
Bay Island Yachts Tnnidad
Bequia Venture Bequia
Blue Water Sailing USA
Boatyard Bar & Bistro St Lucia
Budget Marine Slnt Maarten
BVI Yacht Sales Tortola
Camper & Nicholsons Grenada
Caralbe Greement Martinique
Caralbe Greement Martinique
Caraibe Yachts Guadeloupe
Canbbean Manne Electrical Tnnldad
Canbbean Propellers Ltd Tnnidad
MP Caribbean Wo
8 Carnacou Silv
MP Chateau Mygc
MP Clippers Ship
15 Cooper MannE
20 Curagao Manr
10 Dominica Mar
MP Dom Rep Cn
Dominican Republic Regatta Dominican Rel
Down Island Real Estate Carnacou
Doyle Offshore Sails Tortola
Doyle's Guides USA
Echo Manne Jotun Special Tnnidad
Edward William Insurance International
Food Fair Grenada
Grenada Manne Grenada
Grenadines Sails Bequia
Horizon Yacht Charters Grenada
International School St Lucia
MP lolaire Enterpnses
MP Island Water World
35 Johnson Hardware
MP Jones Mantime
MP Kingfisher Manne Ser
MP LEssence Massage
19 Lulley's Tackle
20 Marc One Manne
S29 Mangot Beach Club
S17 Mclntyre Bros Ltd
MP Mercury Manne
MP/3 Mid Atlantic Yacht Se
29 Mygo Princess 4 sale
39 Northern Lights Gene
MP Off Shore Risk Mana
33 Perkins Engines
9 Petit St Vincent
27 Porthole Restaurant
27 Power Boats
37 Renaissance Manna
cement Tortola 19
ADVERTISER LOCATION PG#
Rodney Bay Sails St Lucia MP
St Thomas Yacht Sales St Thomas 42
SVG Air St Vincent 11
Technick Grenada MP
The Nature Conservancy 14
Tikal Arts & Crafts Grenada MP
Tony's Engineering Services St Lucia MP
Trade Winds Cruising Bequia 36
Trans Caralbes Rallies St Maarten MP
Turbulence Sails Grenada MP
Tyrrel Bay Yacht Haulout Carriacou 15
United Insurance BDS 41
Vemasca Venezuela 21
Virgin Gorda Yacht Harbour Virgin Gorda 5
Voiles Assistance Martinique MP
Wallace & Co Bequia MP
Wallilabou Anchorage St Vincent 22
WIND Martinique MP
Xanadu Manne Venezuela 21
CW = Caribbean wide
MP = Market Place pages 43 to 45
NEW 17.35M SELDEN MAST Sent
by mistake, it is an mast during --
mast including furer, lights,
spreadersstepsspi tracks com-
plete with or without iing.
Make offers. T/Fc (473) 439
4495, Skpe turbulence 42921
SAILBOAT PROPS used 3 blade
from 13 to 22 diameter
Selftailing winches, Barlow,
Barient, Lewmar E-mail
I wwwrcaribbeancompass~r~r. ~ com
Port Louis Marina, Grenada -
beautiful, welcoming, and affordable
SPECIAL SUMMER RATES MAY to OCTOBER*
LOA in feet Monthly rate LOA in feet Monthly rate
YACHTING SINCE 1782
what's new? \
Remember the old Carolina J Series Sdtts?
Great work boats, but did they slam in any kind
of chop i Well, Carolina Skiff have developed
on the J series with the
new JV Series V Hull r "_ "*
resulting in a smoother
and drier ride, but with s
the same functionality
and great price.
PLUS the new DLY
Sport boat complete with consoles, seats and features you would expect from premium brand sport
boats. Great quality and extraordinary value! JV Series skiffs are available in 13 and 15ft lengths.
DLV sportboats In 18 and 20ft lengths.
JV Series Skiffs from $3,555 and DLV Sport Boats from $16,650
MERCURY 9.9HP M FOUR
An extremely light portable Four Stroke, and at 83 Ibs Just 6 Ibs heavier
thn its two stroke counterpart Smart, simple features, plus clean, quiet,
fuel-efficient Four Stroke performance makes this the obvious power of
choice for your 8 to lOft dinghy.
Cruisers know they will save handsomely In fuel consumption, too.
Priced at $2,350.00
WAECO PORTABLE COOLFREEZERS
Fully integrated power with digital
display for a smarter solution. 12/24 volts DC and
100-240 volts AC. These portable fridge freezers give you all
the comforts and convenience of your household refrigerator/
freezer in your boat or vehicle. Separate refrigerator, freezer
and dairy compartments.Temperature range +10C to -18iC
and suitable for solar operation. Available in 40, 50, 60 and
80 Liter capacity.
Priced from $980 to $1,380
Store prices good while stocks last and for the month of August only.
Prices in Curacao may be 10% higher.
what's on the web?
* 10% Discount online
* Free-Fre eight Deals
* Great Giveaways!
what's on sale in store?
QUICK HECTOR 1000 WATT
Horizontal windlass suitable or complete
,60--I 'on decka installation. Comes with Imm *i
Gypsy and Drum: Includes Internal Int-
grated solenoids allowing lor easy and
S fasI installation. he external case is in
*' aluminum, while the IP67 motor jacket Is
manufactured In special nylon-glass fiber.
I Gypsy, drum and lid are all chromed-plated
bronze. 3 Year warranty.
Now just 51,500
Party-size 17inch diameter time
tested original charcoal "Marine
Kettle". Meticulously crafted of
100% 18-9 minor polished stain-
less steel for maximum corrosion
resistance. Starts easily In windy
conditions by using the lid as a
T TOPSIDE PAINTS
Easypoxy is a single package blend of
Surethane, silicone, and alkyd products.
r It flows out to a smooth, sleek finish with
excellent hiding characteristics.
Even brushed or rolled, it gives the
appearance of being sprayed on. Ideal on
fiberglass, wood or metal surfaces.
Quarts from as low $32.50, Gallons from as low as $88.50
keeps you sailing! -
St. Maarten, Cole Bay: + 599.544.5310 Bobby's Marina: + 599.543.7119
Q .ula: + 758.452.1222 Grenada: + 473.435.2150 Curacao: 599.9.461.2144