Title: Caribbean Compass
Full Citation
Permanent Link: http://ufdc.ufl.edu/UF00095627/00041
 Material Information
Title: Caribbean Compass the Caribbean's monthly look at sea & shore
Physical Description: v. : ill. ; 35 cm.
Language: English
Publisher: Compass Pub.
Place of Publication: Bequia St. Vincent and the Grenadines
Bequia, St. Vincent and the Grenadines
Publication Date: July 2010
Copyright Date: 2010
Frequency: monthly
Subject: Boats and boating -- Periodicals -- Caribbean Area   ( lcsh )
Yachting -- Periodicals -- Caribbean Area   ( lcsh )
Genre: periodical   ( marcgt )
Spatial Coverage: Saint Vincent and the Grenadines
 Record Information
Bibliographic ID: UF00095627
Volume ID: VID00041
Source Institution: University of Florida
Holding Location: University of Florida
Rights Management: All rights reserved by the source institution and holding location.
Resource Identifier: oclc - 54085008
issn - 1605-1998


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i '


The Caribbean's Monthly Look at Sea & Shore

More Help
for Haiti
Ralliers bring aid .................. 13

All Natural .
Bliss in Barbuda ................ 16 L
St. Barth's Art...
is in a grave condition! .........24

Quiet Sister
Tranquil Tobago.................... 22

Storm Shelter
Hurricane prep thoughts ...... 26

Who Are You?
Compass Readers speak up.. 28


Business Briefs.................... 8
Caribbean Eco-News........... 10
Regatta News..................... 15
Destinations........................... 18
Meridian Passage.................20
All Ashore... .......................... 22
Maritime History..................29
Fun Pages........................30, 31
Cruising Kids' Corner............32

Tel: (784) 4573409, Fax (784) 457 3410

Editor..................... ............ Sally Erdle
Assistant Editor...................Elaine Ollivierre
Advertising & Distribution........Tom Hopman
Art, Design & Production......Wilfred Dederer
Accounting.................................Debra Davis
Compass Agents by Island:

i .i i .. .

.. ,, i i i 1 i .,

Dolly's Deep Secrets............ 32
The Caribbean Sky............... 33
Cooking with Cruisers.....34, 35
Readers' Forum..................... 36
What's on My Mind............... 40
Monthly Calendar .............. 42
Caribbean Market Place.....43
Classified Ads..................... 46
Advertisers' Index................ 46

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SSN 60 1998

Cover photo: Davon Baker's view of St. George's Carenage and Harbour, Grenada
FlorI C.p S C e e CarC -Ibbean Fro.T. Cuba Tr.n.dad. IrnoT.
Psna.T 10[o Barbuda. we we go[ i[e news and vleriM in.al sailors
Gulf of cn ue We re Ire Car.bben 5 .T.ornirl.y I look a ea and r.ore
Gulf TIhe Balbmas
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Click Google Map link below to find the Caribbean Compass near you!
http://maps .google.com/maps/ms?t=h&hl=en&ie=UTF8&msa--0&msid=112776612439699037380.000470658db371bf3282d&11=14.54105,-65.830078&spn=10.196461,14.0625&z=6&source=embed


Missing Sailboat
A J/24 called Loose
Cannon went missing BRE
from Carlisle Bay, B
Barbados some time I... h..
between 1700 and 2200..... i .
on May 23rd. The St.
Lucia-based boat was in It:
Barbados to race. The i i .
24-foot sloop has a red *..**l...! ', I I 1..
hull with "Loose Cannon... 1 ..
in white lettering on both ....h ..
sides, blue antifouling and
a white mast. Despite a i .
report that the boat was c
subsequently seen by a
fisherman approximately -.
60 miles east of St. Lucia,
the boat has not been
recovered as this issue of
Compass goes to press.
Any sightings or other relevant information can be reported to your local Coast
Guard and to Edgar Roe, (758) 518-7784, edgardedgarroe. com.

Five Bays, Colombia, Closed
Lourae and Randy Kenoffel report: Colombia Coast Guard has "closed" the Five
Bays (just northeast of Santa Marta) to cruisers. They no longer allow cruisers to stop.
Apparently, if you do stop, the Guarda Costa will ask you to depart as soon as possi-
ble either to continue on to Cartagena or proceed to Santa Marta to clear in.
This is upsetting information as the Five Bays have always been very good places
for cruisers to stop, rest, make repairs, enjoy the snorkeling and fishing, meet some
friendly local Colombians, etcetera. Cruisers take note!
For more information contact sy_pizazzyahoo, com.
New St. Lucia Marine Park Fee
At its meeting in April, the board of directors of the Soufriere Marine Management
Area (SMMA) in St. Lucia took the decision to charge persons entering the park,
including those arriving by yacht, a daily Environmental Maintenance Fee of ECS10,
beginning July 1st. This will be in addition to fees charged for yacht moorings.
For more information visit www smma.org.ic.
Antigua Launches National Sailing Academy
June 5th saw the official opening of the National Sailing Academy (NSA) of
Antigua & Barbuda at Nelson's Dockyard. Students in the Youth Sailing Programme
at the Antigua Yacht Club (AYC) displayed their sailing skills to the gathered crowd,
-Continued on next page

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i-:r:-, i. .:1- :1i 1. i: :i. :1' Governor General Dame Louise Lake-Take, Prime
Minister the Honourable Dr. Winston Baldwin Spencer, and area representative
Eleston Adams, along with a who's who in the Antiguan yachting industry.
The ceremony was opened by AYC Commodore and President of the NSA,
Elizabeth Jordan, who thanked those who had made significant contributions to
help start the Academy. Reviewing the history of the AYC Youth Sailing Programme,
she showed a picture of the class of '93. It contained 18 students, of whom nine are
now working full time in careers within the marine industry the blueprint for what
the Academy is trying to achieve. Also of note from the class of '92 is Faraday
Rosenburg, now captain of superyacht White Wings.
The Academy is removing logistic and financial barriers to youth entering the
marine industry. Previously, those who were able to take part in the AYC progamme
either lived in the area or had the financial resources available. With co-ordination
from the Ministry of Sports and Education and the Ministry of Transport, those chil-
dren who select sailing as their sport of choice will be transported once a week to
Falmouth or Jolly Harbour for their tuition, with the cost being covered by the
Academy. Aside from sponsorships, every yacht which docks in Antigua will be
asked to make a donation to the programme of US$1 per foot of overall length.
Other Academy board members are Pippa Pettingell, who runs the Youth Sailing
Programme at Jolly Harbour; Karl James, twice Olympian sailor who is Senior
Instructor at AYC; Graeme Swatton, director of Swalings International School of
Swimming who is heading up the swimming programme; John Duffy, president of
the Antigua & Barbuda Marine Association; Peter Anthony of Ondeck Ocean
Racing, the charter company that will provide training once the children have
gained enough experience to move onto bigger boats; and Eddison Williams, who
acts as liaison between the Government and the private sector.
The Prime Minister expressed his support for the programme, citing it as a significant
investment in the development of the nation's youth in the marine sector.
The presentation ended with a video sponsored by Woodstock Boatbuilders, North
Sails and Antigua Rigging, showing what children enjoy about sailing and swimming,
and some of the careers now enjoyed by many Antiguans who have taken part in
the sailing programme at the Antigua Yacht Club.
For more information visit wwwnaiionalsailingacademy org.
Eight Bells
KEN MACKENZIE, best known in the Caribbean as the long-time owner and skipper
of the famous classic 80-foot Herreshoff ketch Ticonderoga, died on May 27th in
Massachusetts at age 69. Ken was instrumental in organizing the yacht races in 1974
and 1975 that evolved into the Antigua Classic Yacht Regatta; he participated in 12
Antigua Sailing Weeks; raced in Bermuda Fitted Dinghy Races; with Ticonderoga,
was overall winner of the 1976 Bermuda to Newport Race; was America's Cup
Reserve Crew on the 12-metre Enterprise; was a helmsman on Mistress Quickly for
1979's Cowes Week and Fastnet Race (a race in which 17 lives and 21 boats were
lost, but MQ finished safely); raced in the Southern Ocean Racing Conference on
Mistress Quickly 1980-81, made many trans-Atlantic passages and experienced eight
survival-type storms including 1973's Hurricane Gilda; and captained Off Soundings
and Physalia, both 70-foot motor sailors, and Lord Jim, a 72-foot Alden schooner.
MARILYN KAY PRICKETT-WOMERSLEY of the yacht Caribdream died on April 1st in
New York at age 66. Marilyn lived aboard Caribdream with her husband, Alan, and

was active in recovery efforts in
Grenada after Hurricane Ivan in 2004.
S* BA gathering of friends and family was
held at Clarkes Court Marina on her
birthday, June 11th. Donations in
Marilyn's memory were made to
Grenada's Pink Ribbon Society, an
organization dedicated to promoting
breast cancer education and sup-
porting people whose lives are
affected by breast cancer.
Saffir-Simpson Scale Revised
The US National Oceanic and
Atmospheric Administration's
National Weather Service will imple-
ment a new hurricane scale for the
2010 season called the Saffir-Simpson
Hurricane Wind Scale. Using the origi-
nal Saffir-Simpson Scale, it keeps the
same wind speed ranges for each of
the five hurricane categories, but
does not tie specific storm surge and
flooding effects to each category.
The original scale has been widely
used to convey the threat levels of
tropical cyclones. Current changes
A long-time member of the cruising were made because storm surge val-
community, Marilyn Womersley of yacht ues and associated flooding are
Caribdream will be missed dependent on the storm's intensity,
size, motion, barometric pressure, the
depth of the near-shore waters and
local topographical features. As a result, storm surge values can be significantly out-
side the ranges suggested in the original scale.
As an example, NOAA cited Hurricane Ike in 2008, which was a very large storm
that made landfall on the Texas coast as a Category 2 hurricane with a peak storm
surge of 15 to 20 feet. In contrast, Hurricane Charley struck Florida in 2004 as a
Category 4 hurricane, but produced a peak storm surge of just six to seven feet.
Storm surge forecasts will continue to be included in hurricane advisories and state-
ments. Beginning with the 2009 hurricane season this information has been
expressed in terms of height above ground level, giving residents a better under-
standing of the potential for flooding at their location.
Visit www.noaanews.noaa.gov to see the Saffir-Simpson hurricane wind scale
summary table.
St. Lucia Dinghy Project Update
Bruce McDonald reports: The on-going 505 dinghy restoration based at IGY Rodney
Bay Marina in St. Lucia, received some international attention in the form of a recent
visit from Australian 505 guru Malcolm "Pip" Pearson.
Continued on next page


Seni Boca MarinaI Cu r.,%J.j % fn i privme harbor, has operinj
for LkL.je Locaikd outside the hurrkicn belt in the pritectd
%tjqr'% oI Spanish %Ncar I Sr. ru Boca Marina is considcrcd
one of the nest and safest yjacih lin~borrqc in ihe Caribbean

e lr i L ad n" .i cd dc, q. n On Ctai3
0 1I jiinn do~k, cienLirrvr in Holland-
0 _nmrT.xLji,)n IIon 1.1 4' % hL up Ir SIV Ri 113 kf. dIndL
e Flectrical power (127 .1rimil 2211
R I Cablek TV., and potable watr i v k i tbka
0 Marina sitaffiionitrs Vill' nmli channel1 67 and are m-ailable

to asist boaters in dockiing and living the Marini as
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24 hours scurity.

For infonnaiton on rates and frtailities.
call i 5910 '1 560-2599 In
i Bla fLx-. P.D. Bm 481 Cwuja. N.A.
Tc. j599 9 767-902, fm (599 -91 767,0 33
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... ... ... i .page
Th- :-+ i :i--.. :1 f .-+ I .r -national 505 Class Yacht Racing Association has some 48
years of 505 racing experience, which he doesn't mind sharing. He studied the din-
ghy, scratched his chin and said: "It's a marvelous undertaking and I'm choked that
I can't be more involved."

Students (from left) Derick Wallcot Mathurin, Kirwin Wade Lord, Ken William and
Kervin Germain, with teachers Sheldon Issac and Desslar St. Rose, are joined by
Pip' Pearson (in the blue cap), Nancy Marez, Adam Foster, Edgar Roe (red cap) and
Ted Bull (seated at center)
Saint Lucia Yacht Club's (SLYC) Sailing Captain, Edgar Roe, orchestrated a casual
gathering at the restoration site with co-operation from fellow Australian, IGY Marina
Manager Adam Foster. The trio had never met in Australia but the Australian sailing
community is close knit and Pip was more than happy to give some moral support
for the project.
Pip sailed the 505 World Championships in 2008, the Australian Nationals in 2009,
the North American Championships in 1966, 1970 and 1972, and raced with Dennis
Surtees, the sailing king of San Francisco Bay, where they won three North American
and five Pacific Coast Championships. He also competed against Rodney Bay
Marina's developer and former owner, the late Arch Marez (father of 505 donor,
Nancy) prior to Arch setting sail for St. Lucia.
Also rallying around the 505 restoration was Nancy Marez, donor of the 505, who is
still actively involved in the project. SLYC's bosun Ted Bull and Junior Training
Manager Uli Meixner joined Island Water World's lan Cowan to give some welcome
advice and support to the students of Gros Islet's Secondary School, who are both
learning and working on the project under the watchful gaze of IGY's professionals.
Fantasy Island Marina at Roatan, Honduras now has a blog, http://fantasyisland-
morinorooton.blogspot.com, which has useful information including the Cruiser's
Guide to French Cay Harbor, Fantasy Island Marina information, and numerous links
of interest to cruisers. And for a bit of nostalgia, the intro music and video of the TV
series "Fantasy Island".
Interested in the Grenadines' environment?
Check out http://environmentalattackers.org.

New Works at Underwater Sculpture Parks
The Underwater Sculpture Park at Moliniere Bay, Grenada saw the unveiling in
February of a new, seven-foot-tall sculpture by local artists Rene Froehlich
and Jefferson "Buju" Thomas. This is the first work by local artists to be added to the
original 65 sculptures done by English-Guyanese artist Jason deCaires Taylor.
Designed to form a complex reef structure for marine life to colonize,
the Underwater Sculpture Park has become a "must see" for divers
and snorkelers.
Meanwhile, Taylor has created another underwater sculpture park in The National
Marine Park of Cancun, Isla Mujeres and Punta Nizuc, Mexico. The Cancun Marine
Park is one of the most visited stretches of water in the world with over 750,000 visi-
tors each year, placing immense pressure on its resources. The location of the sculp-
tures will promote the development of natural reefs, relieving pressure on them by
drawing visitors away. Already the first three sculptures installed in November 2009
have been a great success, drawing much interest from tourists and showing imme-
diate exponential coral growth. The locations were sited specifically within an area
of the national marine park severely damaged by hurricanes and tropical storms, an
ecosystem in need of regeneration.
For more information visit www underwatersculpture. com.
Carriacou 'For the Kids' Auction July 31st
When passing through Carriacou on your way south to your hurricane hole, be sure
to leave your unneeded stuff with the Carriacou Yacht Club for the July 31st auction
benefiting the Carriacou Children's Education Fund (CCEF). They accept all those
spare boat parts that you have never used, household goods, clean used clothing,
and, of course, cash.
These efforts make it possible for several students to attend the TA Marryshow
Community College and for a large number to have the required uniforms for pri-
mary and secondary school. Your contribution makes a big difference in these
children's lives.
If you are not rushing south, be in Carriacou for the annual CCEF activities directly
preceding the Carriacou Regatta Festival (see ad on page 14).
For more info about CCEF, contact boatmillie@aol com.
In last month's review of The Spice Necklace by Ann Vanderhoof, a memoir of sail-
ing and eating in the islands, we lamented that there was no index to the numerous
recipes in the book. Good news although a list of the recipes was not in place in
the Advance Reading Copy we received, there is, in fact, a list of recipes in the final
book. (It's arranged by category: Starters & Snacks; Drinks; Mains; Soups, Salads &
Sides; Sweets & Baking; and Spice Blends, Condiments & Marinades.) Okay, so now
we can't find much if anything at all wrong with this excellent book. Go buy it (see
links at www.spicenecklace.com)!
Welcome Aboard!
In this issue of Compass we welcome new advertisers Eduardoho Boats of
Colombia, on page 17; Ford Motor Company of Trinidad, on page 47; and Offshore
Risk Management of Tortola, on page 11.
Good to have you with us!



Long life.


IPh~:l2684603050Por of Case;1 I ~idloI Rode y a ai na Ph 6869-47lh:24-9-39

Business Briefs

More Customer Satisfaction at Parts & Power
Parts & Power Ltd, of Tortola, recently completed a four-day Organization and Time
Management course for their personnel. The training concentrated on increased
Customer Satisfaction through better Organization and Time Management. Topics


included meeting customer commitments, meeting project deadlines, better com-
munication through e-mail correspondence and scheduling tips.
For more information on Parts & Power see ad on page 9.
SVG Air's New St. Lucia Service
On June 1st, SVG Air began daily service to and from St. Lucia's Hewanorra
International Airport. Scheduled flights are available connecting Hewanorra with St.
Vincent, Bequia and Canouan. Flights to Union Island can also be arranged for
groups of four or more. Hewanorra receives direct flights from major North
American, European and Caribbean cities, and with SVG Air's new flights you can
get from St. Lucia to the Grenadines in less than half an hour. So convenient!
For more information on SVG Air see ad on page 19.
Carriacou Maroon 2010 a Big Success
Edwin Frank reports: The new-look Carriacou Maroon & String Band Music Festival,
held April 30th through May 2nd, received rave reviews from visitors and residents
alike. Musical performances by visiting bands including Lashing Dogs of Tortola, the
Old Time Jammers of Tobago, and the Mamai Kweyol group from St. Lucia were
highlights, and dancing and drumming by the Zenaida Productions and Esoteric
Drummers of St. Lucia was outstanding. Groups from Carriacou performed the
island's famous Big Drum dance as well as chants, poetic presentations, and a mix
of other dances and skits that enchanted the crowds. Local delicacies such as
"smoked food", rolled rice, rolled coo-coo, stewed pigeon peas, and ground provi-
sions made sure no one went hungry over the weekend, and craft items on display
were a feast for the eyes. The rich cultural rituals and libation activities were also

made to take their rightful places, as the mermaids and ancestors were fed and
nourished as tradition dictates.
There is no doubt that the executive producers, sponsors, volunteers, and everyone
involved in different aspects of the festival are satisfied that their time and resources

were indeed committed to an event that was well appreciated and has the poten-
tial to mature to a world-class level within Grenada's Calendar of Events.
Ondeck 'Rum Runners' Deliver Special Bounty
Ondeck Skipper Pete Whitelaw and crew Mark Barton, Rory Johnson and Roger
Johnson became known as 'The Rum Runners' as they stepped off their 65-foot
yacht Spirit of Minerva at Gunwharf Quays, Portsmouth, England on May 8th, com-
pleting the 3,500-nautical-mile Ondeck Atlantic Challenge from the Caribbean via
the Azores.
The four Rum Runners' were so named because they and the rest of the crew on
board had stopped off in the birthplace of rum, Barbados, to pick up a special
cargo to carry to the UK the very first shipment of Mount Gay's 1703 Old Cask
Selection super-premium rum. The Minister of Tourism for Barbados, The Hon. Richard
Sealy, signed the bottles, which are to be auctioned for charity, and a presentation
case containing six bottles was carefully stowed on board before leaving the dock.
As well as Spirit of Minerva, three other Ondeck Farr 65 yachts completed the
Atlantic Challenge. Each yacht sailed with a skipper and professional crew as well
as those paying for the experience. Eleven of the crew used the race as a qualify-
ing passage to complete their Ocean Yachtmaster Certificate, but most of the
competitors had never experienced an ocean passage before.
For more information on Ondeck see classified ad on page 46.
Tackle Your Energy Problem at Wallace & Co.
Switch to LED Lights. LEDs last longer never change a bulb! Ultra-low energy con-
sumption. No filament to burn out or break.
Wallace & Co., Bequia, stocks a big variety of LED lights and bulbs, including those
for navigation.
Also new: Trojan 6V batteries and deep cycle 12V batteries.
Check out the new stock at Wallace & Co., Bequia.
For more information on Wallace & Co. see ad in Market Place section, pages 43
through 45.
144 Volt DC Hybrid Electric Drive System Installed in Trinidad
Caribbean Marine Electrical Ltd. was selected to design and install the 12V DC
and 125V AC electrical systems for a 55-foot luxury catamaran built in Trinidad. The
owner specified the most efficient LED dimmable lighting and state-of-the-art elec-
tronics and conveniences.
Continued on next page



ant rex Higher productivity by 20 to 30% compared to a 12 V solar panel due to 24 V panels
< installed with the mppt Xantrex regulator.
J ** Improved charging time: works with less sun.
Improved efficiency: the 3 stage regulator and 2 programmable outputs (gel or acid) do not
*** lower the batteries' tension.
SIncreased gain at cable level: losses are divided by two.
CP-Solar Reinforced efficiency as two sets of batteries can be loaded at one time.



After Sale Service I

T,: 1:: 11-I :,:rr :. .,: i-,.. the owner decided on a 144V DC Hybrid
Electric Drive System, a new "green" technology. It saves fuel and re-generates
144V DC while under sail. Caribbean Marine Electrical put its 14 years of experience
into this first-of-its-kind project in the Caribbean, installing the Hybrid Electric Drive
according to the manufacturer's specifications. The main challenge was to success-
fully and safely integrate the 144V DC Electric Drive System with the 125V AC Shore
Power and Inverter Supplies with the 12V DC Service.
The yacht has been sailing the Caribbean for the past 12 months, and on several
occasions Caribbean Marine Electrical has been in touch with the owner, who
reports that "all systems are go" and he is happy with his choice to "go green".
For more information on Caribbean Marine Electrical see ad in Market Place sec-
tion, pages 43 through 45
International School Accepting Registrations
Primary, Junior, Secondary and University Preparation are available at The
International School, St. Lucia. The school offers a dynamic curriculum, excellent

.-. .

Students at The International School in St. Lucia can learn sailing, too

staff, transferable skills and an unbeatable rate of acceptance to universities over-
seas. Look for reduced rates for local students, and boarding options for internation-
al students. Textbooks and a wireless air-conditioned environment are provided.
Register now for September while places are available.
For more information on The International School see ad on page 37
Marine Services Now Under One Roof In Tobago
John Stickland reports: For the first time in Tobago there is now a marine services
company that offers everything you might need for cruising in this undiscovered
region of the Caribbean. With a wide range of beautiful, secure and safe anchor-
ages, Tobago has plenty to offer cruisers. This is a hurricane-free destination,
unspoiled and quiet, offering tranquil spots to lime away the hours. Away from the
sandy beaches, Tobago has one of the oldest protected rainforests in the world and
an abundance of flora and fauna both on land and underwater.
Store Bay Marine Services Limited, based on the waterfront at Cable Beach, pro-
vides water, diesel, gas and propane together with laundry and internet facilities
(long-range WiFi).
The company has established strategic partnerships with major marine suppliers in
Trinidad and other CARICOM countries, which means that chandlery can be deliv-
ered duty free within 36 hours. With our extensive freight forwarding contacts we
can also ensure prompt delivery from both the USA and Europe.
Our team of service engineers can undertake repair, maintenance, fabrication
and installation at short notice in the following areas: Marine Electrics and
Electronics; Refrigeration and Air Conditioning; Marine Woodwork, Metalwork and

GRP; Canvas Work; Outboard Engines (2 & 4 Stroke); Diesel Engines; Plumbing
(Water & Gas); Commercial Diving.
Store Bay Marine Services also offers long term in-water storage at reasonable rates
with secure and maintained moorings, 24-hour security and a regular inspection and
reporting programme.
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and increasing its operations to cover the northern anchorages of Tobago, offering
island-wide assistance to cruisers.
Store Bay Marine Services (SBMS) was founded by English yachtsman John
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sailing single-handed around the Caribbean. Prior to that his cruising grounds includ-
ed, Europe, Africa and South America.
SBMS is committed to creating a cruiser-friendly environment in Tobago, providing
information, guidance and assistance for visitors.
For more information contact John Stickdand at john@sbms.co.ft or ring (868) 390-5408
Something Special from A&C Yacht Brokers
Every so often a yacht broker has something truly unique to offer. The three-masted
schooner La Boudeuse is such a vessel. A&C Yacht Brokers of Martinique is well
known as an agent for Dufour and Fountaine Pajot production yachts, but the
46-metre, Dutch-built, 1916-vintage La Boudeuse is something else! If you need a

day-charter head-turner, a handsome contender for classic regattas, or perhaps
your very own pirate ship, come to Martinique and have a look.
For more information on A&C Yacht Brokers see ad in Market Place section, pages
43 through 45.
lolaire Sold
Don Street has sold the iconic wooden yawl, lolaire. The 46-foot lolaire was built in
1905, and for almost half a century Don sailed her (for most of the time she was
engineless) throughout the Lesser Antilles, cruising, racing, raising a family, writing,
selling yacht insurance, and researching his seminal sailing guides and the popular
Imray lolaire charts. iolaire's new owner, a sailor and boatbuilder, took possession in
June. Don says, "His father was Commodore of the Royal Western Yacht Club in
Plymouth for many years so it certainly looks like iolaire is going to a good home."
Meanwhile, the unstoppable Street, celebrating his 80th birthday this month, is busy
working on Gypsy, the 1937-vintage Dragon that he races with his friends and family.
Visit Don's website at www.street-iolaire.com.
Grenada Carnival with Horizon Yacht Charters
Horizon Yacht Charters Grenada offers an all-inclusive, skippered, seven-night
Catamaran Special to celebrate the Grenada Carnival in August. The Grenada
Carnival is perfect for sailors who seek a blend of adventure, exceptional cruising
grounds, music and plenty of cultural tradition. Summer special offers exclusive for
Carnival charters are also available for bareboat charters for seven, ten or 14 nights.
For more information contact horizonjacqui@spiceisle. com.

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ultimately its reefs and fisheries, according to a study by Chris Stallings of the
Florida State University Coastal and Marine Laboratory.
i..1 ii. ..i.-. .1 .... ... i. .ribbean have observed the declines of large
1 .. I I iI .... I. ... work by Stallings documents the patterns
in far more detail at a much .- .t -. -.i- i Ile than any other research to
date. His article on the study, I .-i. ,.. I I I Data I .1 .. Effect of
Human Population Density on Caribbean Predatory Fish ( ..........., was pub
lished in the May 6th, 2009 issue of the journal of the Public Library of Science
Continued on next page

* ::'" -*;,:*<' '



Regional Whale Watchers Seek Support
Experts, international --.1; ---t-:i;n; industry representatives, civil society
groups and international *- .... I symposium in Sainte Luce, Martinique,
from February 18th .... I. 1st. The symposium addressed opportunities for
building local, sustain .1 1 I i.. tourism and combating threats to marine mam-
mals in the Caribbean.
The Symposium strongly urged Caribbean governments to give their full support
and encouragement to whale-watching activities as a valid and sustainable means of
protecting marine mammal populations and creating jobs, earning foreign exchange
and providing sustainable livelihoods for fishermen and local coastal communities.
Whale-watching has become a US$2.1 billion global industry, with whale-watching
as a tourism activity growing in the Caribbean and" i 1 ,,, .... .; .I
of 12.8 percent (2008), three times more than the .. i i .I i
industry (4.2 percent). Countries in this region are now e ........ ..1i I million
from whale watching as part of their tourism product, i..I .......- i ... whale
hunting are minimal. These figures indicate that whale watching contributes to sus
tainable development and helps to preserve biodiversity and natural heritage, for the
benefit of fishers and local communities.
The symposium called on all Caribbean Governments to ensure that any participa
tion by them in the International Whaling Commission (IWC) reflects these econom-
ic an-- 1- .1 ; .liti: -f the region. The symposium further recalled the princi
pled -,, ,, i ........ Prime Minister, Roosevelt Skerrit, for his 2008 decision
,i i, i, ...... .. i i i ,- whaling at the: .. i ..
,h I .. .. I. .. I .. D ,,,, i-I1 ", an d calls on I h I I .1 -.
countries to join him.
The IWC's 2010 meeting is being held as this issue of Compass goes to press.
No Dumping Garbage from Ships in Caribbean
Decisive action by the Marine Environment Protection Committee (MEPC) of the
International Maritime Organization (IMO) at its 60th Session, held March 22nd
S... .1, has resulted in the adoption of a resolution i i,, ,,,I. i,. charge
i 11 .. by ships in the Wider Caribbean Region as o0 I I
With the adoption of an pr .1.r-litn --l -i :-1 1i lay 1st, 2011 as the date
on which the MARPOL 7 -- .... iI .,., .... I i.e Prevention of Pollution
by Garbage from Ships) .I .. i, ..- ~ .1 1 i in the Wider Caribbean,
this region becomes the sixth zone to be protected against the discharge of all gar
bage from ships, other than organic materials under certain conditions (based on
distance from shore and particle size). This is a very timely move, as maritime traffic
is expected to continue to dramatically increase in the Caribbean region with the
expansion of the Panama Canal.
The Wider Caribbean Region contains 28 coastal and insular countries that have
coasts on the Caribbean Sea, the Gulf of Mexico and part of the Atlantic Ocean. It
covers an area of more than 3.3 million square kilometres, from the United States to
French Guiana. 1- 7- r-n'= i bl-i-T-r-l.i-ti--- i-;t ---tr---...1 ntive marine eco
systems provide a I. 1.1 II ...... .- .. .... ...... ... than 41 million
people live within 10 kilometres of the coastline.
Garbage in the marine environment can damage habitats and kill wildlife, and can
also impact the quality of life of local communities and affect the economies of a
region, notably by its consequences on tourism.
A study conducted by the United Nations Environment Programme (UNEP) assessed
that litter from ocean-based sources of pollution (such as fishing nets, gear and supplies,
ropes, etcetera) accounted for at least 11 percent of all marine litter in our -i-
Chris Corbin, UNEP Caribbean Re.. .. .i i... .1.... i-nit Programm I
Pollution Prevention, congratulated I. ....,,. I 'I ,, collaboration on this mat
ter, but also stressed the importance of having the entry into force as soon as pos
sible of the related pollution control agreement for Land Based Sources of Marine
Pollution. This will further assist efforts to tackle the problem of solid waste and
marine litter in the region.
Big Fish Lacking in Big Pond
Sharks, barracuda and other large predatory fishes disappear on Caribbean coral
reefs as human populations rise, endangering the region's marine food web and

-ontinuedfrom previous page
The study documents in detail the declines of marine predators on Caribbean coral
reefs that occur alongside human population growth i i ,.. -. the region's
marine food web and ultimately its reefs and fisheries. -1 .11,...- I ... I that nations
with more people have reefs with fewer large fish because, as the number of people
increases, so does demand for seafood -and bigger fish are usually fished first.
Given that about half the world's population lives near coastlines and that the
world population is growing, demands for ocean-derived protein will continue to
increase, Stallings warned. He said meeting such demands while retaining healthy
coral reefs may require multi1 :t; c.ti- including implementation of marine
reserves, finding alternative ... I ". and increased efforts to implement
family planning strategies in densely populated areas.
Meanwhile, a marine ecologist who has studied some of the most pristine and
untouched coral reefs in the world says there is a way to fight back against devastat
ing deaths of coral reefs caused by climate change and ---.n -
Enric Sala, a former professor at Scripps Institution I ... ., ,- I, and now a
National Geographic Fellow, said 1.;.. 1 loral will gr I I 1 .i .n a healthy
environment with lots of predator I.-1. I1. is not rocket science," said Sala. "If we
allow the fish to return, we can buy time and allow fc' 1..... I be done about
climate change." Most of the coral in the Caribbean is .11 I .. i I he said. There
are exceptions off Cuba, Belize, Costa Rica and Mexico. The way I i I
he said, is to create marine reserves that allow for the restoratic.. I ,
Reduce the fishing effort by half, take away fishing subsidies, create protected
areas and fix climate change, Sala said. While it will take time to deal with climate
change, he said the first three steps would buy that time.
According to an April report in BBC World News (http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/
science/nature/8611771.stm), what are believed to be the world's deepest undersea
volcanic vents have been discovered in the Caribbean. The vents, known as black
smokers, are located 5,000 metres (3.1 miles) down in the Cayman Trough.
The volcanic chimneys, which spew out water hot enough to melt lead, ....1
on film by a British-led team. Marine biologist Dr. Jon Copley said: -,. 'I
world's deepest black-smoker vents looming out of the darkness was awe-inspiring.
Super-heated water was gushing out of their two-storey high mineral spires, more
than three miles beneath the waves.
Expedition leader Doug Connelly said: "We hope our discovery will yield new
insigl, ...I I .. 1. .... .11ii ..... ...I ... .. -. in one of the most extreme natu
ra lly ........ .. .. ..... .. .. ..i I ... i
The .... II' I I .1" ... ,. .1 1iy Centre in Southampton, sailed
across the Caribbean on the scientific research vessel the James Cook. The discovery
was made with the help of two deep-sea vehicles. Firstly, a robotic submarine called
Autosub6000 enabled the team to map the seafloor of the Cayman Trough in fine
detail. Then a vehicle called HyBIS, i,,,I I I.1. 1. i.1.-definition cameras, was low
ered and captured detailed images I
By studying life around the hydrothermal vent systems, which are dotted along the
deep-sea mountain range that girdles the planet, the team hopes to increase the
I.... i.. )f the way marine communities interact. This, in turn, could aid
SI- I i I protect endangered marine species. Senior researcher Dr. Alex
Rogers, from the Zoological Society of London, said, "The densities of animals and
the biomass of life around these hydrothermal vents is just staggering."
However, scientists will not have these extraordinary environments to themselves
for long. Gold, silver, copper and zinc are all present in the mineral-rich emissions
of the vent systems and recent advances in deep-sea oil exploration are giving miners
the chance to exploit these areas for the first time. Dr. Copley is well aware of the
moral and political questions being raised by the team's r-;;;..ll-rl-i;. work.
He believes that we are at a crucial crossroads in the .- I 1. I )cean.
He can see a future where nation states squabble over natural resources, but he
is optimistic that the international co-operation demonstrated on his current voyage
will lead to sensitive study and sustainable exploitation of the deep sea's riches.
"Hopefully there's a different path forward if we've got the courage and determination
to take it," he told BBC.
Adopt a Sea Turtle!
In April, the Venezuelan environmental group Fundacion La Tortuga launched its
"Adopt a Sea Turtle" campaign. The goal of the project, run in conjunction with the
Grupo de Trabajo en Tortugas Marinas de Nueva Esparta, is to involve children,


Fundacion La Tortuga President Alberto Boscari says, Five of the seven types of sea
turtles in the world live in Venezuelan territory, so we can consider ourselves privileged'
young people and adults in an interactive way to raise funds for environmental con
servation activities, especially those in---"in- th- protection of sea turtles.
Five of the Earth's seven species I 1,,,11 are found in Venezuela. The sym
bolic "adoption" of a turtle will offer opportunities to participate in "turtle camps",
night watches to guard nesting areas, the release of hatchlings, turtle rescues, lec
tures, and sea-turtle monitor;. -.- 1 -.l;- .ti-, i t
For more information visit i .. .. i. ,' .. .... ,, I i .,, = I
Continued on next page


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Continuedfrom previous page
Last Mangrove Wetland in Barbados Disappearing
According to a May 6th PRNewswire (www.prnewswire.com) report, a recent envi
ronmental study shows the last remaining mangrove in Barbados is disappearing
because of outside pollution and poor water quality.
The Graeme Hall wetland is a red mangrove forest that has existed for some 1,300
years. It is the only wetland in Barbados recognized internationally under the
Convention on Wetlands of International Importance (Ramsar). It acts as a Caribbean
flyway stop for migratory birds between North and South America.
r i ,. -1.. I I ..i .I i .i www.graemehall.com/press/papers/Graeme Hall
04 '1 I 1 i I '1. Graeme Hall Nature Sanctuary by Environmental
Engineering Consultants of Tampa, Florida shows the Sanctuary has suffered a
77-percent reduction in salinity in the past ten years due to an inoperative govern
ment-run sluice -. i. i.... i. i. ...... .1i. "an inevitable failure of the man
grove ecosystem .- -1. I II ... i ..... i ke over.
The study also cites damaging factors including dumping of raw sewage into the
wetland instead of the sea by the South .:t ----- rT .t;,t Plant; contami-
nated storm water runoff originating from : I .. ...... ..managed drain
age systems; and commercial and residential pollutants from adjoining properties.
Graeme Hall Nature Sanctuary occupies 42 percent of the Ramsar wetland at
Graeme Hall, and is owned by Peter Allard, a Canadian investor and philanthropist
who has put more than US$35 million into the 35-acre eco-tourism site to preserve
the last significant mangrove woodland and wetland on the island. The Sanctuary
closed its doors to the general public in late 2008 when problems of pollution and
water quality became overwhelming.
The original environmental investment was based on the area being protected as a
brackish mangrove ecosystem.
Despite a 6,000-signature petition by citizens of Barbados to create a 240-acre
national park at Graeme Hall, a new ----rnm-nt --nin- policy calls for commercial
and residential development for the :.. i i i 1. ..
International Funds Help Grenadines Marine Environment
The Sustainable Grenadines Project has attracted funding from international
sources for three different projects aimed at conserving the marine environment in
the Grenadines.
The first project, entitled "Strengthening i i .... ... .. in the Grenada Bank",
has been funded by the US National Fish .. I 1 11.1 .... nation. The project will
be carried out in collaboration with the Marine Protected Areas (MPAs) across the
Grenada Bank, and will aim to build reef management capacity by strengthening
networking, monitoring and evaluation, and decision-making for sustained marine
and coastal conservation. The project will create management, institutional, and
draft legal documents that will improve MPA management. Regional management
structures will -. .. I as a result of the network that has been created and
will provide for ... 1.1 IIi protection and conservation of coral reef habitats.
The US National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA) has approved
ti, i i ,.,i i "Developing a Framework for a Comprehensive Marine Multiuse
2 I...... i i I Grenadine Islands". The project will build on pre-existing ini
tiatives in the Grenadine islands of St. Vincent & the Grenadines and Grenada by
the Sustainable Grn,, I ... I I ..... R' source and Space-use
Information System P. I I i i.. I ... I I I I I Systems Plans developed
by both countries to increase MPAs through the development of a multiuse zoning
plan for the Grenadines.
Finally, the Neotrcyi-1 4Mirnt-r- Pir-l C-n--tion Act has approved a grant for
h 1 I. ,,1I I I I". I ,I i I I ... I P~eople: Ashton Lagoon Restoration
I 1I I -I I ,, I .. ,, on Union Island was damaged more than a decade ago
by a marina development project that was never completed. This project aims to
restore Ashton Lagoon and the critical ecosystem functions and values it once pro
vided, as well as economic and community-based benefits that are inherently linked
to such a dynamic and complex ecosystem. The proposed project seeks to enhance
wildlife habitat potential for birds, fishes, and other marine organisms by:
restoring hydrology and tidal flushing within Ashton Lagoon through carefully
engineered landscape manipulation of remnant marina structures that impede water
development of sustainable local tourism and livelihood opportunities for local
people, and
increasing knowledge and awareness of the importance of mangrove and salt
pond ecosystems and bird life in Union Island through exposure to their ecology,
history, and economic and cultural importance.

Cruisers have their favorite websites for researching a number of factors that
affect their lives, not least of which is the inescapable weather. :.... of
S/VAspen sent this useful list of Selected Caribbean Weather -I I the
Eastern Caribbean -Internet:
Caribbean Offshore Waters Forecast -Wind and Waves for the Eastern

.,I I .' 1' I 'II. 1 alWavesandITCZ
Atlantic Graphic Tropical Weather Outlook
Sailing Weather Forecasts for the Caribbean
I b I,, ,, Caribbean
ii .. i ... I I. .. I hp?station=41040
*Wii i I .. 1 .. i, ,,' the Caribbean
Volcanic Ash Advisory -Montserrat Activity
*W i. II 1 ... ... I .1 1 1i beann
manati orbit nesdis. noaa. gov/quikscat/
: .....i. i I,- /dataimages21/cur/zooms/WMBas20.png
*Ra i .... I I. i ... ibbean
wwwmeteo.fr/temps/domtom/antilles/pack public/animation/animMOSAIC2.html
Another radar weather site the Compass Crew likes is
http://hadar.cira.colostate.edu/ramsdis/online/RMTC BAR 1km vis.html

I _I

by Stephane Legendre

Cruising rally participants recently delivered two tons of essential humanitarian
items to Sister -i i .... .. at Ile a Vache on the south coast of Haiti.
The llth edit. I '. ......... I Transcarait -ruiin: r.11-- ran from March 30th
i.. .. ,i ..-.. The route this year was I' 1.11 I. ... previous years, tak
:, i 1 -I ... -* -uadeloupe to Saint Martin, the Dominican Republic, Haiti and
Jamaica before ending at Cienfuegos, Cuba. Twelve boats registered this year, fewer
than last years 20 owing to the economic recession.
The participants, including Canadian, Italian and French sailors, gathered at Marina
Bas du Fort at Pointe-a-Pitre, Guadeloupe for a windless start. The 180-nautical-mile
leg between Guadeloupe and St. Martin was covered in 36 hours. Most of the
boats decided to use the Riviere Salee passage to save time and fuel for the long
journey north.
At Marina Fort Louis, St. Martin, as in previous years a warm welcome took place
-on the first evening at the Saint Martin rescue center (SNSM) for a welcome brief
ing and on the second evening at the marina for a wine and cheese party.
The stopover at Saint Martin also meant all the boats sorting out and stowing some
two tons of goods, i .- lin; f 1 : 1.- 1 supplies, bound for Haiti. Sister Flora's
orphanage had sen, I -i, I.... i i- i .- the January 12th earthquake and rally
organizers knew exactly what was urgently required. The Saint Martin Rotary Club's
action was predominant in gathering the supplies. Also notable were the efforts of
former rally participant Corinne, a medical doctor from Martinique, who managed to
send all the needed powdered milk by plane to Saint Martin.
The yachts were soon loaded and set to depart for the Dominican Republic. Our
beautiful first stop there was at the exquisite Marina Casa de Campo, where we
stayed three nights relaxing and visiting the historical quarter of Santo Domingo.

Then the real adventure started. The following stops were Isla Catalina and Isla
Beata, crowded with its famous, ugly but friendly iguanas. Then we anchored at a
slice of paradise that everyone had been looking forward to: the famous Bahia Las
Aguilas, a five-mile-long spotless beach, right next to the Haitian border.
A short overnight passage took us to the well-known Ile a Vache, where some heav
ily loaded boats could deliver all the humanitarian goods we had taken aboard.
Sister Flora's two boats came along and shuttled all the cargo straight back to the
orphanage in the small village called Madame Bernard.
The next day was the village's market day, so we organized an excursion to visit
boththe r .. i I i i i.. ..... .11 ,. ., ...I re happy to see that all the
boxeswe i '. i i' ... -1 i .. I I i .. i..ui in a lockedroom. The400
pupils from the school thanked us with their smiles and friendliness. The Madame
Bernard market was one of the poorest most of us had ever seen in our lives, making
us aware of what bounty we had brought.
After two days we took off for Marina Errol Flynn at Port Antonio in Jamaica. Two
days there, full of reggae, gave us just a hint of this beautiful island, so special and
so attractive.
-~ ..,, iur final destination, was reached after a long and very slow, windless
I .. -. -rived late, but we managed to settle at Marina Marlin, where a won
I 'i i i to Cuba awaited us.
The next day we all went on a tour to the cities of Trinidad and Havana. The magic
of the island operated again as every year and this year's rally sailors were aston
ished to discover Cuba and its delights.
That ended this year's north Caribbean adventure. Half of the boats proceeded
westward to Guatemala's Rio Dulce to store their boats for the hurricane season, and
the rest carried on with various individual plans.
Come and join us next year from April 2nd through 22nd.
For more information visit www.transcaraibes.com.


Doyle Sail Loft & Canvas Shop Raymarine Electronics Refrigeration Work
Mechanical & Electrical Repairs Fibreglass Repairs Laundry
Vehicle Rentals Showers Air Travel
Ice & Water Diesel & Propane Moorings
Island Tours Surftech Surf Shop Hotel Reservations
. Quiksilver Surf Wear Restaurant & Bar Boutique
On-site Accommodation Wi-Fi / Internet Cafe Book Exchange

SPO Box 39, Blue Lagoon, St Vincent, West Indies
iB.: n |Tel. 1-784-456-9526 / 9334 / 9144 Fax. 1-784-456-9238

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. .. s.......


Special Delivery Wins 2010 Atlantic Cup Rally
Eighteen boats departed in brisk northeast winds on
May 2nd for the 850-mile passage of this year's Atlantic

Cup offshore sailing rally from Tortola to Bermuda. The
Rally and two Cruising classes enjoyed two days of
reaching winds before high pressure filled in and
motoring began.
Special Delivery, a Taswell 58 sloop sailed by Bill and
Diana Quinlan of Florida, was first to finish and Overall
Handicap Winner for the event. The Quinlans are veter-
ans of seven rallies and past winners of the Caribbean
1500 Rally.
The Atlantic Cup fleet, hosted by Nanny Cay Resort
and Marina in Tortola, received a warm welcome and
awards dinner at the St. George's Dinghy and Sports
Club in Bermuda at rally's end.
The Cruising Rally Association returns to Nanny Cay later
this year with the 21st 2010 Caribbean 1500, slated to start
November 1st, making it the largest and longest-running
offshore cruising rally in the Americas. Steve Black, presi-
dent and founder of the Cruising Rally Association, antici-
pates a record entry of returning ralliers.
For more information on future rallies and seminars
visit www carib 1500.com

Glorious Anguilla Regatta
The 8th Annual Anguilla Regatta was held May 7th
through 9th in Road Bay. Twenty boats from Antigua, St.
Barth's, Dutch and French St. Martin, and Anguilla B
Class local boats raced for trophies, prizes of Laurent-
Perrier champagne, and glory. Although there was the
threat of rain Friday and Saturday mornings, by race
time, the clouds dispersed making weather and wind
conditions near perfect for racing.
The Spinnaker Class had four hot contenders: two
Melges 24s, with Frits Bus skippering Team Coors Light
and Roualt Didier on French Connection; plus the
Beneteau First 36.7 Kick 'Em Jenny, skippered by lan
Hope-Ross, and Jan Vanden Eynde's Open 750, Panic
Attack. Team Coors Light won first place with Kick 'Em
Jenny second.
In the non-spinnaker class, Richard West represented
Anguilla in Charm II, a 1928 Alden Malabar V schooner,
while St. Martin entries included Colin Percy in his
Nonsuch, Antares; Philippe Herve in his Beneteau,
Vanille; Garth Steyn in his Catalina 36, Moondance;
and Leo Ligthart sailing a Jenneau Sun Odyssey, La
Diablotin. This race also saw the welcome return of
Charm Ilf's nemesis from St. Barth, Ira Epstein's vintage
Robert Clarke-designed ketch, Lone Fox.
Despite blowing out the mainsail on the first day of
racing, Vanille managed to win every other race and
took first place for that class. Antares took second.
In Multihulls, Sylvie and Jean Ricour in their Brazapi 41
cat, Guinmamalou, could not repeat their first day win,
but provided stiff competition to Robbie Ferron of St.
Maarten in his Lagoon 410 catamaran,
Katzenellenbogen, who swept the rest of the series to
take first overall.
In the newly added West Indies Workboat class, both
Carriacou sloops, Genesis from Antigua skippered by
Alexis Andrews, and Laurie Gumbs' Tradition of Anguilla,
exemplified an older era of sail in the Caribbean, with
Genesis winning all three races.
Always an exciting feature of the regatta is the local
Anguilla boats racing under Anguilla Boat Race
Authority rules. This year, the B Class boats took to the
water, and in a close finish, F5, captained by Orris of
Island Harbour, took the win, followed by ROBB cap-
tained by Beggar.
Anguilla Regatta is organized by the Anguilla Sailing
Association, in partnership with the Anguilla Tourist Board.
Sint Maarten Yacht Club once again provided expert
administrative assistance. The regatta is the flagship
fundraising event for the Anguilla Youth Sailing Club.
Their mandate is to provide Anguillian children with the
opportunity to sail while learning seamanship, boat

safety, environmentalism, and leadership skills. In keep-
ing with the AYSC philosophy, the deck of Charm IIIwas
filled with young and eager sailors.
The 9th Annual Anguilla Regatta will be held May 6th
through 8th, 2011.
For more information visit www. anguillaregatta com.

25 for Captain Oliver's Regatta
St6phane Legendre reports: The 6th annual Captain
Oliver's Regatta, presented by Coors Light, took off
May 15th in St. Martin with two days of great sailing,
despite weather that forced some of the 25 racers to
take chances in the Saturday's courses.
The skippers were briefed by regatta director Stuart

Knaggs during the opening cocktail party at Iguana
Bar, Captain Oliver's Marina on the Friday evening,
and Captain Oliver, alias Olivier Lange, made an
encouraging opening speech, despite being weak-
ened by a fierce battle against cancer. Saturday eve-
ning Hooter's calendar girls presented the "Hooter's
Choice Award" to their favorite sailor.
The Saturday courses were changed from anticlock-
wise around the island into two different courses
because of the weather conditions: for the racing
classes, clockwise around the island from Great Bay
and for the cruising classes starting in Great Bay, going
around Tintamarre, both classes finishing by Oyster
Pond. Sunday's courses were set in the channel
between St. Martin and St. Barth's, starting out from
Oyster Pond.
The winners of the seven classes were:
Cruising Monohull: First, Moondance, Garth Steyn
(prize of a haul-out and antifouling treatment spon-
sored by Island Water World). Second, Antares, Colin
Percy. Third, Tamaya, Ronnie van Sittert. Performance
Monohull: First, L'Esperance, Bobby Valasquez (prize
of two air tickets sponsored by WinAir). Second, Kick
'Em Jenny, lan Hope Ross. Racing Monohull: First,
Budget Marine Gill, Andrea Scarbelli (prize of watches
sponsored by Goldfinger and SXM sails gift certificate).
Second, Team Coors Light, Frits Bus. Third, Panic
Attack, Jan vander Eynde. Cruising Multihull: First,
Gimamalou, Jean Michel Ricour (prize of a gift certifi-
cate from The Scuba Shop). Second, Muscade, Eric
Wysznski. Racing Multihull: First, Tryst, Pat Turner (prize
of a gift certificate from Bobby's Marina). Second,
Karibuni, Eric Clement, who also won the prize of fast-
est around the island. Corporate Challenge: First, 2 CH
LC Flemming, Valade/Hulin (prize of a course certifi-
cate from Maritime School). Second, Lions Club,
Jacques Yves Gruel. Third, Turtle Island, Arnaud Anquilt.
Beach Cat: First, Image Real Estate, Olivier Bernaez
(prize of two watches from Goldfinger).
The Captain Oliver's Regatta trophy, including a
weekend stay at The Captain Oliver Hotel, was won
by Moondance.
"It's been a great regatta," says Knaggs. "We had
close competitive racing and high performance; this
year many boats came out to race in the cruising class,
though we missed many friends from St. Barth's."
For more information visit www.coyc-sxm.com.

USVI's Barrows Named 2010 US College Sailor of the Year
Thomas Barrows of St. Thomas, USVI, a graduating
senior from Yale University, has been named the US
Inter-Collegiate Sailing Association's 2010 College Sailor
of the Year. Barrows grew up in St. Thomas and was
cruising with his parents before learning to sail through
the junior program at St. Thomas Yacht Club. Three
sailors from St. Thomas are on the 2009/2010 ICSA All-
America Sailing Team: Barrows, Taylor Canfield (Boston
College) and Cy Thompson (Roger Williams).
Since his arrival at Yale in 2006, Barrows has been a
key player and was named Sailing Team Captain in
2008 and 2009. He won the 2007 Laser North American

Championship and competed at the 2007 Pan
American Games in Brazil. He represented the US Virgin
Islands in China at the 2008 Olympic Games.
At age 12 Barrows met Zach Leonard, Yale's Director
of Sailing, when the latter spent four months in St.
Thomas. Leonard had a significant influence on Barrows,
especially after he left the island. Barrows: "We weren't
sure what path to take, coaches to hire, events to enter.
Zach was always very helpful in giving guidance, and
pushing me to do well in school. I never thought about
going to an Ivy-league college, but he showed me that
that was a realistic goal. I'll always feel indebted to him

tor allowing me to nave mis experience.
Barrows majored in Sociology and thinks he may
become a professional sailor in the future. His immedi-
ate plans are to represent the USVI again in the Laser,
this time at the 2012 Olympic Games. With that goal in
mind, this summer he will compete in the XXI Central
American & Caribbean Sports Games in Puerto Rico.

Preparing for Carriacou Regatta
Frank Pearce reports: Carriacou Regatta is drawing nigh.
Carriacou boats race on their own courses, while visiting
and local yachts race different courses. The regatta has
two divisions: the yachts and the local boats. There is no
handicap system for the local boats: the fastest or best-
sailed boat wins. Smple!
Prior to the annual early-August weekend, there is
frantic activity amongst the Carriacou sloop fleet pre-
paring for the racing. Some of the boats are careened.
To do this, a large waterlogged log is kept moored at
the village of Windward. The log is attached to a
sloop's main halyard, all ballast is removed from the
sloop, and she is heaved over until the keel is just above
the water. The side decks are well under water at this
stage and she sits there tethered by her masthead to
the log. The bottom is scrubbed off and painted and
then the sloop is righted and heeled the other way to
clean the other side of the hull.
Some boat owners take a more modern approach.
Tyrell Bay Yacht Haulout is going full stretch: the owner
of the yard, Jerry Stewart, offers competing sloops a
free haulout prior to the races a generous gesture
that helps keep the spirit of the regatta alive. Bottoms
are being cleaned, even propellers removed and the


apertures temporarily faired with plywood. Anything for
more speed, man!
Some of the sloops are used on a day-to-day basis for
fishing or carrying small cargoes. Before the regatta the
working sails are removed and the "racing" sails are
bent on. These are mainly fully battened Bermudian
mainsails. It could be said that these sails are not true to
tradition these vessels were originally gaffers but
with the modern rig and the original hull, the boats are
very fast. Most of the boats are about 36 feet long and
have a crew of about ten local guys, all experts and
mostly skippers and voluble. Lots of shouting and con-
tradictory advice is needed.
For more information see ad on page 14.

Kate to Race in November's Golden Rock
Kate, the elegant Caribbean-based 12 Metre gaff-
rigged wooden sloop, has been chartered for the 6th
Annual Golden Rock Regatta, November 13th through
17th, by a team from Alabama.
Continued on page 27



. .. -

Darwin the bo dog the author ejoy a moment overlooking Barbuda's east cost
Darwin the boat dog and the author enjoy a moment overnoogan Barbuda's east coast

A anybody who's been cruising extensively has
long realized that living on the water is noth
ing like the idyllic, romantic image landlub
ers dream of. Errands, boat problems,
misadventures, bad weather and uncomfortable
anchorages are all part of the daily boat life.
But, once in a while, a rare perfect day comes along.
It's a day on which Mother Nature shows her apprecia
tion for us fr- opirit-, pI- ..fi1l n-i 1,"-in' -nii-,
Its a day tl 1 .. i. .. .- I. I ljr
i i. I. i- i .. i to my partner, Mark, and me.
ii1 i i .y was to sail our 35-foot catama
ran, Irie, from the southern coast of Antigua to western
Barbuda. While rounding the main island, progress
was a bit slow, since the mountains blocked most of
the wind. We didn't mind and enjoyed taking in the
view of the shoreline with its many bays and beaches.
Venturing sea turtles kept popping their heads up
around us, noticeably changing their i. ...1.1- from
"La la la, I'm ha l i .1 .1... .. nd" I i I cow,
what a big white :.. ..-I p'" 1 1 disappearing after
a frantic paddle and dive. We had to dodge around
some of these unsuspecting creatures who had their
tails pointing to Irie instead of their faces.
Once we reached open water between the sister

islands, the weather turned beautiful, with blue,
sunny skies and an ideal 15 knots of wind from the
perfect direction. Really! Mother Nature nicely pushed
little Irie forward at seven knots, while she fueled our
solar panels and win 1 -n --.t-r at the same time.
Mark and I were I ..II.1 .... 1.... .,, i appreciating
i .... 1.1, ... .. 1 I .... I ,i the clothes
...- 1 i i ,-.'" Aft-r h-.-lin; up and slowing
down, Mark reeled the : .... II... while we both
peered into the water, not knowing what to expect. Our
victim was fighting and in its efforts to break free, got
caught in our second, thinner handline.
Once the creature got close to the boat, we saw it was
a giant barracuda with a tangled mess of line I, .,.,,,
behind him. We finagled the line off, but taking I -. i
hook out was a less attractive task. Mark was not willing
to come anywhere near the massive teeth and I wasn't
too thrilled about it either, so it didn't take long for him
to convince me the hook would eventually rust out. We
cut the lucky beast free and I retrieved the other, tangled
line. In doing so, I felt a little tug at the end and just like
that, a tuna had grabbed the secondary lure and
replaced the barracuda on the dinner menu!
On a clear day in the Eastern Caribbean, you can
almost always see the faint shape of an island in one

:ii, ;.'.
direction or another. We saw smoke rising from
Montserrat while anchored in northern Guadeloupe
and some islands are visible from 20, 30 and some
times 40 miles away. Except Barbuda. As a matter of
fact, this flat island stays hidden as long as possible
and just when you wonder whether you'll run into it,
something long and skinny pops up at the horizon less
than five miles away.
In our case, a huge white stationary structure gave
the location of the island away. Such a thing didn't
agree with the information we received about Barbuda
being very pristine and not built up at all. Once we got
closer the big object appeared to be a mega-yacht at
anchor 't-i-Fn 1 in the country for lunch. Imagine
that: .1 i -I ... Guadeloupe, lunch in Barbuda and
dinner in Nevis. If we had to sail to a different country
for every meal, we'd starve to death. And, we wouldn't
get a chance to enjoy any place along the way.
Of all Nature's gifts, Barbuda might well be one of
the biggest. Its people help to keep it unspoiled with
tourists. All you hear from other cruisers about the
peace and quiet is true. The anchorages are uncrowd
ed with good holding, clear water, jumping fish and
curious turtles. Most places have a constant ocean
breeze, because of the flatness of the land. Different
kinds of birds are often seen and heard. White (sand)
bordered by green (brush) and blue (sea) are the main
colours on the shore side. If one shows up with a full
fridge and full tanks, one can spend a long time enjoy
ing the surroundings.
Visiting the south shore of Barbuda requires some
maneuvering around dark patches of reef, but once
settled in five to ten feet of calm, protected water, you
can easily go to shore for nice walks. There are sandy,
rock-strewn roads to follow in any direction. They
crisscross a seemingly infinite, barren land dotted with
brush, cacti, stones, a couple of salt ponds and a few
abandoned shacks.
Continued on next page

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Continued from previous page
On the rocky shore of Spanish Point, sea spray from
-r :.7i;n- waves takes care of any sleepiness left on
S in the morning. When a heavy swell is run
-;;;--;; -; t- --ter spout up above the island
: ..... .1. I. Standing on top of the rock
pile ruins of the old fort gives you an idea of the flat
ness and vastness of Barbuda, but from the sand
dunes along the southeast coast, the view of the inte
rior and the sea vistas with ir-l-in; r-f- re more
spectacular. Keep an eye out I I i i ..i horses
and chickens.
The beach between Cocoa and Palmetto Point is
... ii.... ii- .. i I etch of pinkish sand is so
111 i I I I .Ii i ... .. i up to your 1l-l" -lirni;r ;
walks. That and its impressive .. 1-... 1 i .
exercise during the cooler hours i I1. i. ii. i ...
Cocoa Point Lodge on the southern tip should be
avoided, unless you don't mind being chased away by
the unfriendly staff.
When we arrived at Low Bay on Barbuda's west
coast, we expected to see a few other boats. We were
told the next boat would be at least a mile away.
Instead, we had no neighbours in the visible distance.
The last boat we passed was anchored near Cocoa
Point, 15 miles away. Since it wasn't rolly at all, we
started to wonder whether anything else was wrong in
this area. Why was no one else visiting this peaceful
coast? Whatever it was, it disappeared two days later,
when a couple of other boats dribbled in and "inter
rupted" our lovely, appreciated loneliness. One mile
away suddenly seemed pretty close! The only footprints
on the beach, however, still belonged to just us.
After cruising for a year and a half in the busy
Caribbean, Barbuda proved to be a refreshing change.
It is as close as anyone could get to the Bahamas with
out visiting them. A spectacular moonrise, a jumping
ray and the remoteness enhanced our stay in this gift
of Nature. It is a bit challenging to get around and you
have to be self-sufficient upon arrival, but this is part
of the charm and maybe the reason Barbuda is still
-surprisingly enough -a "hidden secret", as the
locals call their island. Go explore and sample a piece
of the secret; it's worth it!

Liesbet Collaert is a freelance writer who lives and
cruises on S/V Irie with her partner, Mark, and their
dog, Darwin. For more stories and pictures, check out
their website www.itsirie.co

- i o VP -n i

I'~ rCLI; j~a~~IiUH

Antigua: Outdoor World Ltd -Tel: 268 4607211 Aruba: Island Watersports Tel: 297 5873590 Bahamas: Harbourside Marine
Tel: 242 3930262 / Marine & Land Industries -Tel: 242 3522219 Bermuda: A & P Marine Ltd. -Tel: 441 2953333 Bonaire: Boto
Blanku Marine Services -Tel: 599 7175050 Curacao: A&F Motors N.V. -Tel: 599 4654865 Grand Cayman: Kirk Marine -Tel: 345
9463575 Jamaica:Yamaja Engines Ltd. -Tel: 876 9278700 Puerto Rico: Caribbean Nautical Group -Tel: 787 5532344 St. Lucia:
KL Marine Ltd. -Tel: 758 2861397 St. Martin: Ocean Xperts -Tel: 590 590522472 St. Vincent: KP Marine Ltd. -Tel: 784 4571806
Turks & Caicos: MPL Enterprise Ltd. Tel: 649 9462227 Colombia: Eduardono S.A. Tel: 574 3727455

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" ~r ~~l IIII.I 'II IIII

ULM. .... i : H N:~~'' Il ~ lP~::


mlrf- i

-------------- ---- 1w

Grenada Review:

by Chris Doyle

Promptly at 0730, Monday to Saturday, the Grenada
Cruisers' Net fires up:
"Anyone for turtle watching?"
"This is Rikki from de Big Fish. Tonight being Thursday
we have live music with happy hour."
"On Friday at Clarkes Court Bay Marina we will be hav
ing traditional fish and chips."
"I am looking for volunteers to teach kids!"
With events going on nearly every day of the week,
Grenada has become a popular place among cruisers to
I. .1....... In fact, throughout this year so
... I i ve had a small yachting boom.
In part this is thanks to the many small businesses that
have sprung up and settled down in the many bays along
the south coast. Another critical component has been the
completion of Port Louis Marina in St. George's Lagoon.
St. George's
St. George's has always been the prettiest town in the
Caribbean. It stands on a hill between the sea and the
protected Carenage, and is built of brick with fish-scale
tile r( .. .... .i ... ....... i, picture-book appeal that
has : .i... I ... i..... i. i- I paintings and postcards.
But foryear= th- 1 --;; i-=t -r-=it- frvit -f which was
the site of I. i..-1 i ... I ... 111 ..... ... Grenada)
has been a mess. When I first arrived in Grenada in
1969, the finishing touches were being put on a fancy
new marina here called Grenada Yacht Services.
Unfortunately the reign of this marina was short; it dete
riorated into a dilapidated ruin sprinkled with rusting
wrecks that seemed to fester forever.
The friendly Grenada Yacht Club, across= th- 1 -
sold fuel and put in good docks, but the
junk heap, which not only made the 1 ...1 1 ,t, by
virtue of being on its doorstep, I I, I I i. .... St.
George's itself.
Port Louis, now in place, has transformed the lagoon
with its modern docks and beautiful gardens; there is
even a little tower you can climb to take in the view. The
effect has been to turn the whole of St. George's Harbour
into a really special place; one of the finest city harbors
in the Eastern Caribbean. If you want to cni- th- "fff
season" here, Port Louis Marina is offering* '
discount for the summer months.
During construction of the new marina, some yachters
complained that there was no longer room to anchor in
the lagoon. However, as yachts started anchoring just
outside it, many have come to appreciate how pleasant it
is to be anchored in the open, in clean swimming water,
off cliffs and beaches. The anchorage runs almost all the
way down to Grand Anse and many more cruisers are
now accessing Grand Anse, with its shopping and res
taurant- 1 1,. Unfortunately we have a small prob
lem in 1. ... this anchorage contains productive
reef, which is now getting trashed by yacht anchors; in
these areas we need some moorings.
Hanging out in St. George's has also become fun. The
Grenada Museum offers a series of cultural events that
take place upstairs on Friday nights at 1730. They
include steel pan, jazz, storytelling and local dance. In the
same building is a small, but very good tapas bistro, open
every day except Sunday. And just across Young Street is
Pebbles Jazz Club. The jazz takes place on Tuesdays and
Saturday and they bring in some world-class musicians,
making it prime evening entertainment.
The South Coast
Grenada's south coast is well endowed with protected
bays. Many years ago a stationary hurricane to the east
forced me to stay in Grenada for a one-week charter, and

T .o

Above: The view from Port Louis Marina across the Carenage to Grenada's historic capital, St. George's
Below: Hiking opportunities abound; this is in the mountains above Tufton Hall
we found plenty of different anchorages
to play in, though there was almost "
nothing ashore in any of them. Over
the last years small businesses have
been attracted to these ...... .
varied and convivial 1 h, I ,
those =umm-r;n. i-re.
One I I1. I hardly used and
not even named on charts a few years
back, has became the home of Le Phare
Bleu Marina (I now call it Phare Bleu
Bay). This lovely small project has two
fine restaurants, one set in an antique
lightship, and a fine little shop (buy the
daily bread). It is a friendly place where
locals come to fish on the dock and
kids play on a "pirate shipwreck" that
has been built in the shallows. From
here, all the way to Mt. Hartman Bay,
the south coast makes a convoluted
protected waterway, easily accessible
by outboard or small sailing dinghy.
Woburn is the closest small settlement
and convenient for a bus to town. Anew '- 4
attraction is the family-run, French -
accented, Whisper Cove Marina, which 4'. k &
contains an amazing butcher shop. -
Continued on next page *, '

I ... .." 'h ; I .-,. L

- -VudLLLl aflJtuIL ptL-U puyg,
Gilles buys local animals, hangs them in a room-sized
chiller and produces wonderful cuts of fresh meat. He
also makes hams, smoked fish, sausage and bacon.
These feature in the restaurant, which is open most
days for lunch and on some nights for dinner. Gerard,
who runs the dock, has a workshop and good tools,
which he sometimes rents to those with a project.
Across the water, Clarkes Court Bay Marina has a
bar and restaurant which is popular for fish and chips
on Friday, pot-luck on Saturdays, Sundays for after
noon games, Wednesdays for steel pan and burgers
and Tuesday for movies. Sometime, find your way in to
the Little Dipper dock and walk up through the fruit
garden to Joan's great local restaurant overlooking the
Hog Island is best known as a cruisers' hangout and
for their Sunday barbecue. Yachts also anchor in Mt.
Hartman Bay, where Martin's Pub at the marina often
has a Friday night barbecue.
Prickly Bay Marina's Tiki Bar is famous for its Friday
night steel pan followed by a combo. On the other side
of the bay, De Big Fish gets hopping, especially on
Tuesday and Saturdays when they have early live
music and happy hour specials. It is also one of the
best lunch spots. Young people can go party late at
night at Bananas, a short walk away. Wander up
towards the medical school, and Options is a new food

court with shacks selling local food, sushi, Mexican,
pizza, shark-and-bake and more. For classier fare try
Moko Jumby on the same road, or the Dodgy Dock at
True Blue Bay.
Out and About
Starting about Wednesday each week, the morning
net will start to talk about Fish Friday at the village of
Gouyave on the island's west coast. Gouyave is the
fishing capital of Grenada and on Fridays the fisher
men do a little direct marketing: stalls are set up all
over, traffic is stopped, and you can buy every kind of
seafood from the vendors. It has become a popular
local event. Buses are -r- ni-- that will take you
there return for about
One of the other things that will turn up from time
to time on the morning net is the offer of an "island
tour". I am told this is a great and popular trip, but
any island tour of Grenada should just be a taste to
whet your appetite, because Grenada has a gorgeous
interior, and if you are on a budget, buses can take
you to most good spots.
For example, pack lunch, start early in the morning,
and take a bus from St. George's going over Grand
Etang. Get off at the Forest Center, walk a hundred
yards or so back up the way the bus came and you will
see a marked trail to the west which will take you right

across the middle of the island. Take the short detour
to Mount Qua Qua with its lovely view over the Grand
Etang Lake before continuing down to Concord. [See
detail I i,,i ... i. actions and map in "Monkey Paws
and' .1 .1.11- I Devi Sharp in the March 2010 issue
of Compass.] You will pass a few lovely secluded water
falls along the way. When you hit the main road, you
S. 1 ... 1 I town. Another destination not to
:. ... .. .-. .. the same day) is Seven Falls. The
trail for this is also on the Grand Etang Road, but a bit
further north, downhill from the Forest Center. It
would also be easy to spend a day messing in the river
above Tufton Hall, behind Victoria. Go up far enough
andyoucon I1 i-.i .1. .1 .1.11 in Grenada.
A fun way ... i .... I aindgettoknow
locals is to join in with the Hash House Harriers (these
have been described as drinkers with a running prob
lem). They have buses that leave town for whichever
part of the country they have decided to harry, and it
is all announced on the morning net.
The island tour may have taken care of the Belmont
Estate and the River Antoine rum factory. But in case
it did not, put them on your itinerary. The Belmont
Estate, between Tivoli and Hermitage, is where the
cocoa for the Grenada Chocolate: .rown. You
can =--it --;;: dried in the sur ... i i... i out about
the -- I making chocolate. The River Antoine
Rum Factory (take the coast road from Tivoli then
head north) tour is like being in a time machine. Rum
is made here today, much as it was a couple of hun
dred years ago. You want to call first and make sure
you go when it is in action so you can see the big water
wheel ~r. i-ni7- the sugar cane and watch the heated
juice .... I II I ever warmer in a series of coppers
heated by fire from the crushed cane stalks.
Boat Work and...
If you have work in mind, Grenada has two good
boatyards -Spice Island Marine and Grenada Marine
-and a host of support services for any kind of job
(see www.mayag.net/Suppliers).
And while maintaining your boat, how about you?
Island Dental Clinic is a new dental office with modern
equipment and two good young Grenadian dentists
who are keen and interested. Between them, the
Sunshine Medical Clinic, and Dr. Yaw in Prickly Bay,
there is nothing you cannot get done from a complex
crown to an implant, and at about half US prices.
For cruisers, summer in Grenada just might be the
on season".

TflFrom ToFraom To/Fronm
- BEQUIA BEQUIIA MU1STQUE Pri~re Jet harter.s avi.able.
*CARRIACOI *UNIOIN UNION o andfrom allpots ln wikhinthe N

make your passage faster and more comfortable. The table below, courtesy Don
Street, author of Streets Guides and compiler of Imray-Iolaire charts, which
shows the time of the meridian passage (or zenith) of the moon for this AND next
month, will help you calculate the tides.
Water, Don explairn- fnrnll- i tries to run toward the moon. The tide starts
running to the east .. .1 .noonrise, continues to run east until about an
hour after the moon reaches its zenith (see TIME below) and then runs westward.
From just after the moon's setting to just after its nadir, the tide runs eastward;
and from just after its nadir to soon after its rising, the tide runs westward; i.e.
tide the floods from west to east. Tim-r 'i--n Ir" local.
Note: the maximum tide is 3 or 4 i .1' new and full moons.
For more information, see "Tides and Currents" on the back of all Imray Iolaire
charts. Fair tides!

1146 (new)


0000 (full)
1222 (new)

0000 (full)


by Larissa Stendie

Sailing is pure magic; at once the most thrilling and relaxing activity I have ever
oni- d and I fear I'm hopelessly hooked.
I 11 Bequia early in the morning of January 21st on what became a 35-hour
offshore and coastal sail. I loved taking my watches on the rough open stretches
between islands where the current made the sail choppy and rollercoaster like. We
S. ....ii i. i I r at a steep angle, sailing hard on the wind, and so in using
i i i .. II against the door, and when trying to sleep between watch
es, I'd wedge on an edge and hope body parts didn't fall completely asleep while the
stressed dog leaned into me and panted 200 times a ....., .1 I .... .. i.
our plates, and tri Id t- .ul -- our minds and bellies ,- -. i .. i e i,, i,
I've miraculously ,, i ... i''I, had NONE... thus far), which made watches above
deck preferable in rougher seas.
I."..... i. i ,i .~ sed close enough to St. Vincent to see into the little bay of
.,111 ... 1. i I "Piratesof the Caribbean" filmwas shot. We couldn'tsee much
of the remaining set except for several storefronts, but the steep cl: i- ... I I. I -i ,,
b r i ........ I i I ........ ..... .i. ..I I .. 1 I
pi i, 1 i 1 ,, 1 i i 1 1 .1 1. i i i 1 i i ,, i, i, and fishing.
,I I I ... i ot-pink and shimmer
ing blue squid-like lures to troll and test our luck. Apparently, and sadly, much of

Dozens of shooting stars fell

and the bright hammock of moon

shed almost enough light to read...

the Caribbean has been overfished to the point where large game fish are far off
shore, and medium (edible) sized fish are tough to find near the islands. Later, as
I was sleeping up front on the bow in a comfy, rolling depression lined with sail
bags, Chris drew my attention to a 1.; fl- k of seabirds that were diving for fish
driven to the surface by schools ol I ,,,,,.i,. tuna. In a synchronistic dance, the
small fish were attacked from above and below, though all we could see were the
dips and dives of the brown, black and white birds. As we sailed through the fray,
we felt tugs on the lines, and though one escaped, I hand-reeled a two-foot blackfin
tuna aboard. I was surprised by how little he fought, but he was partially drowned
by being pulled behind the boat going six knots. Such a beautiful, delicate fish,
with a black back, wide taxi-yellow stripe and spiky-looking tail fins, iridescent
white belly, and these 1.-** li;;il expressive anime eyes. Chris filleted it almost
immediately and I ate I. -I. -I sweetest sashimi ever, warm from the sun. It
was the perfect size to feed the three of us for dinner with fresh avocados and limes
from Bequia.
With wetter weather systems passing, the sun set in shades of neon orange from
behind violent-looking swaths of black cloud crossing the skies. We shot past a
distantly visible St. Lucia in the afternoon, Martinique during the night, and after
the scare on the 8:00PM watch my first in the dark, when I lost my 1- .-i; .
swung the boat which caused the boom to fly wildly across the deck JI I '
only do that once) when I came back on at midnight, I 1 I 111.1i 1,,i,.
comfortable with wind speed (about i i- .i i ...... i II I I .,
distant lights of land) andweather i i ,, i i i i i ,,, [
spray), there were dozens of things to see. Both sky and sea were alive with stars as
phosphorescence glowed on each cresting wave and scattered out from our wake in
sparkling points. Dozens of shooting stars fell and the bright hammock of moon
she I i.... I .. i ii.i.. I read, only occasionally obscured by fast-moving clouds,
as I i i .... the east. Singing myself awake, I ran through
repertoire I hadn't thought i i struggling to remember all the words. I kept
iir h.n-liini ln-1 t due north while watching satellites whiz across, and t .
Si iii i i,- -, that landed on deck. On my own boat, I will hang pan-1 "
the cockpit, for from the small holes in railings for attaching wind-generators or
radar, the wind plays flute on sailboats, and though tuneless, Aeolian, soulless, the
sounds are otherworldly, ethereal, and haunting.
Even when wet and chilled, I marveled that the best part of that fantastic day was that
not a single unusual event occurred, and that all this is simply the norm cruising.

The author sailed with Chris Morejohn and daughter Kalessin on their S/Y F i,
Maximus. Larissa Stendie is a Canadian artist, activist and adventurer, .
Caribbean for the winter learning to sail. Visit her blog at www.lstendie.blogspot.com.

Port Louis Marina, Grenada -

beautiful, welcoming, and affordable


LOA in feet Monthly rate LOA in feet Monthly rate

Camper &



The island of Tobago is generally considered the qui
eter half of Trinidad & Tobago and a popular tourist
destination. For yachtspeople, it offers a taste of the tra
ditional Caribbean and a refreshing getaway from boat-
yard chores. For locals it is a place to escape the commo-
tion and hubbub of Trinidad, especially during long
holidays such as the Carnival and Easter weekends.
Its popularity has increased by the introduction of
more transport options. It is easily accessible from
Trinidad by air or by ferry, the latter of which is slower
but cheaper. About six years ago the trip by ferry used
to take up to six hours. Currently there is a fleet of fast
ferries which are outfitted with cinemas, restaurants
and bars, that make the trip to the sister isle in
approximately two hours. If you don't want to sail
there on your own boat, this is an attractive option.
Most of the activities in Tobago happen in and
around the capital city of Scarborough on the south of
the island. However, when I vis.I I i [ like to stay
at the other end of the island, i' .. it all in the
village of Charlotteville.
On the way to Charlotteville you will pass through
the village of Speyside, which is where you want to go
to visit the island of Little Tobago, also known as "Bird
of Paradise" Island. This tiny island, with an area of
101 hectares, is a wildlife sanctuary and home to the
Red-Billed Tropicbirds. Owning to its conservationist
nature, one has to seek permission from the Forestry
Division to visit the island. If you go with an authorized
tour guide they will advise you about the regulations.
There is a network of trails on the island for hiking.
Little Tobago has a rich history and was once used as
a meeting point by the Caribs during the 17th and 18th
centuries. It was given its second name because in 1918,
William Ingram, an avid bird lover, purchased the island
and released 24 pairs of Birds of Paradise (Pamdisia
apodoa acquired from Aru Island, New Guinea. From the
jetty you can see Goat Island, which was the former
home of the ornithologist James Bond, who wrote the
well-known field guide, Birds of the West Indies.
Another site to visit on the way to Charlotteville is

. ...

Above: Take a short scenic hike from Charlotteville
and you might have Pirate's Bay all to yourself

Below: The view from Flagstaff Hill, including the
distinctive London Bridge, well known among
scuba divers as a drift dive

i r .. .. ..... .;... ..
....... ........ ., .. .
.... ... ...........
-.... ..... ..-
.. .......
...& ........ ... .:T7T!= :,: W
.. ............. ;
...... .. ...;;-
I;.............. ....* ~ ;;; -:7 -r
................. ...

Flagstaff Hill. From this vantage point you can see some
of the tiny offshore islands such as St. Giles Island and
a rock arch called London Bridge, which is popular with
divers as the currents in that area pull you through the
arch. Note that some of Tobago's diving spots are for
experienced divers; guides are available.
Charlotteville is a tin-- fbi-n: village on the north
coast, about an hour's 1'' i' .. Scarborough. It may
look as though time forgot this area but it is outfitted
S11. 1i. I ... .; station, library, police station, two
: ...... ... ..- .. I which doubles as the post office),
community centre, of course a fish depot, and a couple
of restaurants. There is also a small internet cafe and
shops where you can buy music CDs and movies on
DVDs. There are stalls offering handmade souvenirs,
such as jewelry and intricate carvings of the local wild
life on the backs of dried calabashes (gourds).
There is no shortage of places to stay on this side of
the island. There is also no shortage of places to eat.
As anywhere, it is always cheaper to cook your own
meals, but if you want to have the "dining out" experi
ence, I would recommend Sharon & Pheb's restaurant
in Charlotteville. If you are looking for authentic local
food, this is place. You get a little bit of everything on
your plate for example, macaroni pie, baked chick
en or fish, potato salad, fresh salad, and the list goes
on -and it is all equally tasty.
If you are up : i 1 .. the land, visit Pirate's Bay.
You can drive :i I. a 4x4 vehicle, but it makes
a pleasant short hike. Walk straight through
Charlotteville and follow the dirt road at the end up a
hill. Along the way you get some great views of Man-0
War Bay. At the end you are greeted by a long stair-
way. This will lead to one of the most beautiful bays (in
my opinion) on the island. It has a wide expanse of
sand and calm waters and the best part is that it is not
crowded, except for the occasional weekend party. If
you visit -inri;; the week you might have the entire
bay to ... now that is truly paradise! It is a
good location for snorkeling: a small coral island
located in the bay is home to a variety of corals and
other sea .1 ... h i,, I ,, .. r eels, sea urchins, bristle
:: worms, Bl. i. I ..id Sergeant Majors.
If you head in the opposite direction, you can visit
Fort Campbelton, which is located between
Charlotteville and Hermitage Bay. There is an old
cocoa house that stands along the way, a silent
reminder of the days of the vast cocoa estates that
once covered both Tobago and Trinidad. This industry
is currently undergoing resurgence.
There are many ancient structures on the island as a
result of the island's turbulent history as it changed
hands many times, at various times becoming a colony
of the British, French and Dutch. The best-known of
these structures are forts: for example, Fort George in
Scarborough, which is a museum, and Fort James,
which has a "mystery tombstone" whose inscription
has baffled generations of visitors. Ruins on the beach
at Campbelton's Bay that consist of two rooms might
not have belonged to a fort, as one might first think.
The thick walls of this structure suggest that at one
time it might have been used to store gunpowder or
house prisoners.
This part of the island may be quiet, but there is a
lot to see and do. So I hope when you visit our sister
isle you will not stick to the "tourist" places but get out
and explore the quieter side of Tobago.

Jo Anne Nina Sewlal is a doctoral student at the
Department of Life Sciences at the University of the
West Indies' St. Augustine, Trinidad campus.



you sail into the inner lagoon of Marigot Bay, St. Lucia, look to the north.
A You will see a few buildings along the shore, behind which the land
Climbs to a 600-foot-high ridge. The top part of this hill is a national park
and there are two excellent short hikes here. If all goes according to plan, one day they
will be linked by a well-marked ridge trail, which will allow you to start at Rainforest
Hideaway and end at Doolittle's.
The main ridge hike takes about an hour from the dock to the top and back again.
The trail for this hike starts near Rainforest Hideaway. (If you eat in this romantic and
upscale restaurant thI .... 1. 1 afore, you won't have to feel guilty about the calories
as you will hike them .11 II II. next morning!)
The best and easiest way to find the trail is to dock thI 1... 1, at Rainforest
Hideaway, wander up to the Mango Beach Inn, and ask the -I 1 put you on the
trail, which starts attl' 1 .. 1...i1. I .1 I .... I 1. .. i11 Verity and her team
have been really kind .1 ..I ..- .... ...i 1 i ... ... l plyyou with a guide
in the form of Jo Jo, their .r-l -;-
However, if you prefer to I" I ', own way from the water's edge, here is how you
do it: Walk up past the bar at Rainforest Hideaway, pass through the first gate right
above, and then follow the wooden walkway and steps down just to the east of
Rainforest Hideaway. A path here leads through the mangroves. But after just a few
steps (and the path is really unclear at this point), head uphill. The first part of the
path is poorly marked but it basically runs outside the fence line of Mango Beach Inn
and joins the main path at the top gate of the Mango Beach Inn property.
From here on up the path is very clear and looks like :i I -'., I an engineer
as it goes directly and almost in a straight line to the i I '' i. 11 can be slip
pery and is very steep in places, but trees are often perfectly positioned to make

Main photo: You get an eagle's-eye view of the inner bay from the ridge
Inset: I have never seen more large-leaf sea grape trees than on this hike'

handholds, and towards the top, in the three places where the goin. I.- I ..'h, long
ropes have been tied in place to provide you with a good handhold. -1 .1i a good
grip are almost essential.
I have never seen ;-, 1. --leaf sea grape trees, Coccoloba pubescens, than on this
hike. These trees, : i .. I the common sea grape found on many beaches, have
giant leaves, big enough to come in handy as a sunshade or umbrella. In the dry
season, their dead leaves litter the floor of the trail.
Watch out also for hermit crabs. This is typical habitat for them and footsteps can
make them retreat into their shell -upon which they often lose traction and start
rolling downhill, which has led some hikers to believe that the trail is littered with
aggressive little rocks determined to attack them.
When you reach the summit, turn left and follow the ridge for a short while; you will
find a meditation platform with a great view.
The other trail, the sunset ridge trail, starts in the Doolittle complex. It is less steep
and doesn't go as high as the main ridge trail, but it also has a lovely 1:
Since you have to go quite a long way through private property with ". ...
signs, I ,.. 1 go into Doolittle's to get permission and ask for directions to the
beginnir, I 11'' 1 .il. Once you pass through the gate in the big fence where the trail
starts, it is very clear. If you go to watch the sunset, take a flashlight and make sure
you get back before they lock the gate!

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T'omb of

the W ell by Merab-Michal Favorite

Known Sailors
Rain pelted down on the stone steps as I ascended toward artist David Wegman's
studio above Le Select in Saint Barth's. When I stepped out of the rough weather and
into his bungalow a wave of .- .t.l ; .- ---;- i-; I couldn't believe a place like
this still existed amongst a i .....1 .....1 .. I II ..- real estate. It was as if I had
stepped back in time a number of years, which was appropriate (like the weather)
because the story he was about to tell me happened 20 years ago. The story he would
tell me was of a local pirate legend, a post-mortem journey, and an act of friend
As Wegman strummed his guitar from 1860 he told me about his friend Kenny
Capen. Such .- 1 fi 1 --. -- that Wegman liked to keep him close by. In fact,
he kept part ci I. ..... -i .I i ..I .....- bone under his bed. You see, Wegman believed
that Kenny had sr..t 1.i -._- f -m beyond the grave on more than one occasion.
Kenny, like most i 1 i .i ,, i to become immortal and has, because Wegman
uses parts of Kenny in his artwork.
"A Pirate Wreck" is the title of ........ .1 ..1, ire molded after Kenny's
remains. It is also the seventh in .. i ,, i ... .. with Kenny's "parts".
"[The piece] represents Kenny because Kenny was a pirate and a wreck, he was a
1. 1, 1. 1 rison time in both Texas and Puerto Rico, he was an escapee, he
S ii ... only to be recaptured and locked back up. Yes Kenny was a pirate,
and that is why my art represents him," said Wegman. (As I write this, the sculpture
is currently on display at Entre-Deux in Gustavia, Saint Barths.)
Kenny Capen was born in 1954 in Corpus Christi, Texas. He gave up a life of nine
to-five jobs, strip malls and television to be a smuggling sailor. Kenny liked the
Caribbean, but he really liked Saint Barth's. Kenny sailed around the islands in his
wooden boat, Espolita, and somewhere along the line met David Wegman who was also
a ...... ... 11 11 1ool sailor. The two became good friends.
I hl- .i ...... Kennywas ... .. .... II.... .. I 1 -; and visiting old friends
one day when he suddenly dropped i I I i. Ii .,, I s nephew Steve Capen con
firmed the diagnosis but questions whether heart failure was the real cause of death.
"I just find it hard to believe that a thirty-six year old would drop dead of a heart
attack," said Steve.
Some of his friends, including David Wegman, decided it would be best to bury Kenny
at sea, to give him a true pirate's burial.
"We just thought that would be the most logical thing to do," Wegman said of the deci
Steve Capen remembers the burial well. His father and mother flew down from Texas
to see the ceremony. "I was only fourteen, but I do: ... ...I i .... i ...I to Antigua for
the burial, and them telling me what a nightmare .1
As it turns out the nightmare was that, post-mortem, Kenny had made other plans.
Instead of sinking to the bottom and resting there .i.11 1.1 I corpse, Kenny,
whose coffin had been weighted with chains and i.11 i I -1.,- I I t in the water,
somehow -'nr -- t- fl-.t to the surface and sail his way back to Saint Barth's (a
distance i *II .... i .miles).
"During the funeral we watched as the coffin sank into the sea. Then everyone went
to shore. TI i;- .ft that it floated to the surface and the wind brought it to Saint
Barth's," i .... ...
Steve Capen was unaware of where the final resting place of his uncle was. He did

x 'I l
Above: This sailor's grave in St. Barth's has become a shrine to those lost at sea

however confirm that there were several problems with the burial, including the corpse
of his uncle washing up on a beach somewhere.
Wegman believes that Kenny traveled such a distance because some of his closest
friends were unable to attend the funeral. "[For that reason] Kenny just came to them
instead," said- .......
According to .... .. two days after the funeral a fisherman reported seeing birds
-ir-:li; ---- floating box near Saline.
Ii ...1.I .... .1 be Kenny, so we went out to look for the box," said Wegman,
"but we : .. I l
Two days later, another fisherman found the casket broken up at Gouverneur with a
body inside. By this time Wegman knew for sure it was Kenny.
"There was really no doubt at this point," he said. According to Wegman, the gen
darmes confirmed it with an autopsy.
It may have been Wegman and friends who convinced the gendarmes to let them bury
the body in a local cemetery, or it could have been the hassle of getting the body back
into Antigua, which was responsible for Kenny's final resting place. An Antiguan law
called the Cadavers Importation Act requires a cadaver import permit issued by the
Chief Medical Examiner, which could have complicated l i1,,. 1, tever the case, the
body stayed in Saint Barth's. Wegman said that he and I I. laid Kenny's body
in a hole in the cemetery. He remembers it being Good Friday when they made Kenny's
headstone out of a Heineken box filled with cement. After that, Wegman left Saint
Barth's to sail around the world.
Eight years later, Wegman returned to Saint Barth's. He decided he'd pay his friend
Kenny a visit. He was cleaning the grave site when he noticed the skull and femur bone...
Continued on next page

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Right: Artist, musician and circum
navigator David Wegman in his stu

Continuedfrom previous page
...had erupted from the dirt. Wegman claims
that it actually happens a lot in the Caribbean
on account of the weather.
"Now up until this point, I had been u: .i; : t
ly cow bones [for my art]," said Wegm... II -. '"'
then that I said to myself, why not use Kenny's
bones?" Without consent, Wegman extracted the
bones and took them back to his studio.
From that day on Wegman used molds of
Kenny's bones to make traditional Jolly Rogers
for his artwork. Currently he is up to number
eight. The bones have remained under Wegman s
bed for the last 12 years. When asked what he
thought Kenny would think of his partially exca
vated body lying under his bed, Wegman said,
"He would have loved it!"
In fact, Wegman claims that approximately two L
years later Kenny sent him yet another message.
It happened shortly after the 50th anniversary of
Le Select, which was close to the tenth anniver
sary of Kenny's death. Wegman learned that fel-
low sailor Roy no last name was given had
fallen off his boat and was lost at sea.
"We didn't really know each other's last
names, we just kind of went by first names," Wegman's sculpture 'A Pirate Wreck'features molds of his
old friend Kenny's skull and cross bones

Wegman said.
Roy had been one of the friends responsible for burying
Kenny at sea in Antigua. Wegman felt bad about Roy not hav
ing a proper burial, so he decided to dedicate Kenny's grave
to all the sailors who lost their lives at sea. He called it the
Tomb of the Well Known Sailors, and decided to have a little
dedication ceremony the next day.
It was the next day when Kenny sent his final message.
Wegman and friends made a cross bearing the title of the
tomb. Theywere -'ii"' '' .I I .rave playing music and
1-ind I 1 ... i I ..... I-style devotional.
butterfly flew down and landed on the cross.
That's when another guest present at the ceremony whis
pered to me that a butterfly landing on .... ',,, ,s a
i i .... ... ...... ... ssage received," s ,, I ....... "It
i I to me.
Since then the grave has become an infamous site. Ashes
Shave been sprinkled upon it; names have been written on the
qg cross. The burial site has become an eclectic mix of remains
that mark a universal grave responsible for representing
those sailors who were both loved and lost.

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by Jim Hutchinson
Let me offer the simplest solutions first:
The best way to avoid weather threats to a yacht (in all latitudes) is to sell the boat
and go home.
The next simplest is to put the boat in a boatyard. Anybody ... i .... 11.. to
secure their boat in the water for wind forces several times ,. 11. ....... I us
have ever experienced should haul out for hurricane season. Boatyards are probably
the safest place your yacht can be. You can hang with your friends in the bar until
the electricity, water and phones go out. Then go to your yacht, your private storm
shelter, with its independent electrical, water and communications systems, which
also contains your tools, med .i i I .i ii. i..... .... ..pposed to take to
a hurricane shelter ashore i,,. ,1,,,, .. i i i. i ,. II ,, But let's assume
the worst: you wind up in a pile of toppled boats, dismasted and holed. Would you
rather be awash in a pile of boats blown ashore? Haul out early.
Protecting a boat in the water is more complex. It is in an environment that the
vast majority of people simply do not want to seriously deal with. That still leaves
quite a few of us who do, or are willing. We are an endangered species. Unprepared
boats seeking shelter where we have set up for a storm are a greater danger to us
than the storm itself.
And there are those who decide (for either good reasons or bad reasons) that the

storm won't hit, or won't be that bad, or whatever. Such boaters should remain in an
open anchorage. If they are right, no problem. They can abandon ship if they see they
are wrong. Do not make a late move into a hurricane hole where people who took it seri
ously have been working to protect their property and their lives. Anybody that arrives
in my hole with less than six hours of daylight before the wind starts is my enemy.
And it is far better to have 12 hours of daylight to set up. Move early or stay put.
Despite 25 years aboard in the tropical and sub-tropical North Atlantic, we've only
been hit by full storm force winds four times -call me lucky. Two were Category 3
hurricanes from which I expected direct hits, but only got storm force winds. The
other two were direct hits from a tropical storm and a Category 1 hurricane. For the
first Category 3, I broke every rule in the book (departing a [marginally] landlocked
anchorage, sailing unfamiliar waters at night to a place I'd never been, and moving
towards the storm's track) to earn the shelter that we needed, which was directly on
the forecast track. The forecast was wrong, the eye crossed where we had been. The
other Category 3, we ran the wrong direction, away from the forecast track, but
towards the actual track... which wound up being the actual track. Due to a late
start, we stopped 30 miles short to allow a full day to set up. I expected a direct hit,
but the eye went where I had intended to be, instead.
One doesn't know what the hurricane will do, so the main thing is to find shelter
with plenty of time to set up.
-Continued on next page

TEL: 58 (281) 265-3844 E-MAIL : xanadumarine@cantv.net

18 Victoria Street, Roseau
Dominica, WI
767-448-2705 Ext Marine
Fax: 767-448-7701 VHF 16
Budget Marine, Doyle
Sailmaker, SeaChoice Products
Dealer :
Mercury Marine, Yanmar Marine

Continuedfrom previous page

I've lost count of the times I've set up and didn't get hit. Some were precautionary,
some I thought we might get hit, a couple of times I expected to be clobbered.
The first two of our four hits, we rode at anchor. The recent two, the strongest two,
we were snugged into mangroves. No damage or injuries so far, some problems, lots
of work. Let me stress that we have never experienced Category 2 or stronger winds,
much less (and I mean much less) the waves such winds can send into unprotected
bays. So, I'm no expert.
Our ground tackle is fairly serious. I rate it at 90 knots, though it has only been
tested to 60 knots. Ninety knots is twice the force of 60 knots. A hundred and twen
ty knots is a lot more. Most of the boats anchored where Hurricane Ivan's eye passed
dragged. But some of the boats were seriously anchored and doing fine until another
boat came down on them. Most yachts simply do not have sufficient ground tackle
for such conditions. Moreover, both the deck hardware and the holding ground need
to be sufficient. And the anchors must be well laid out and deeply set.
I consider the mangroves to be the best possible protection from hurricanes for a
boat in the water. Some places it is illegal (strictly enforced) to tie into (or even to)
the mangroves to protect the ... ..... i... .ii .1 I .-ilould
be) to cut the mangroves. The : .. .. i i i i i ..... i i ... i i rea
sons, but also, to protect us an 1 I ,I i ... i ........... i also,
so our grandchildren will have shelter from the storm and fish to eat.
Arguably, the mangroves are safest if boats anchor entirely clear of them. My argu
ment is that a boat securely tied into the mangroves does far less damage than a
boat crashing into them, wrecking itself and possibly others, and spilling its diesel
and chemicals in the water. On the other hand, if te storm doesn't hit (and most
times that one should prepare, the storm won't hit, not seriously) "-in- into the
mangroves does more damage than never touching them. How much? i, ,, i do it,
as little as possible not much.
I pick a small indentation ir. thi- r-n.r-"-" ti- the bow into it (cradled by the
roots) and run lines into the :. ..... i... "- cleat. I sight a fair lead from the
cleat to a serious branch or trunk, then to a branch or trunk beyond. If the branch
es don't seem serious enough (healthy and as thick as my leg), I run the line on to
a third and a fourth branch, as nearly in line as possible, threading the rope
through the small branches to get a fair lead. Each branch gets a loose clove hitch.
Then I tension the line, passing as much slack as possible back towards the boat,
setting the clove hitches as I go. The lines are run above deck level to allow for a
small storm surge. I climb into the -''n.--- from the bow, above the slippery
roots and -ild.i-i-T; ---t-r O T ... n storm with slashed feet. I move
slowly and *' ',i 11".... .I, the mangroves, breaking as little as possible, cutting
nothing. It takes hours.
I reckon the mangroves to be the best possible protection for the boat, and the
boat, once sheltered and secured, the best possible protection for me. And being
aboard, in turn, makes the boat safer. When the storm hits, I'll be aboard.
A friend with more hurricane experience than I read this piece. We -li:.; on
staying aboard. To my ending, "I'll be aboard," he added, "Wish me luck i i i' is a
point, though we basically agree on the survival potential of the individual boat. If
his boat isn't where he left it after the storm, it will probably be because someone
else wiped him out. So, yes, wish me luck.

Continuedfrom page 15

... Regatta News

Launched in 2006, Kate was built on St. Kits by Philip Walwyn. She is bronze-fastened
Oregon pine over mahogany frames with length overall at 78 feet, a beam of 11 feet
four inches, and draws seven feet six inches. Now rigged as a gaff sloop, it is planned
that she be re-rigged as a gaff yawl over the summer months. Though the yawl con-
figuration will affect her official rating, her speed should increase substantially.
Kate was precisely designed to the 'First Rule' (1907) of the International 12 Metre
specification. Wooden Boat Magazine is sponsoring the wooden vessel class for this
year's Golden Rock.
The Golden Rock Regatta kicks off in Great Bay, St. Maarten for the first race on
November 13th; next day the fleet races to Gustavia, St. Barth's, followed on the 15th
by a single-leg run to the finish line off the cliffs below Fort Oranje on Statia. On the 16th
in commemoration of the first salute accorded the flag of the United States the First
Salute Race, a series of windward/leeward legs, will take place in front of Fort Oranje,
followed that evening by prize giving at the Fort.
The next day an informal race back to Oyster Pond, St. Maarten culminates in a
buffet at Captain Oliver's, with dancing to live music.
For more information visit www. goldenrockregatta. com.

Calling All ARC'86 Children!
This year is a significant milestone for the famous Atlantic Rally for Cruisers (ARC) as
the 25th edition will set off from Las Palmas de Gran Canaria to Rodney Bay, Saint
Lucia on November 21st. To help celebrate, event organizers World Cruising Club
want to hear from those who took part in the historic first rally in 1986, especially from
any ARC'86 children.
There are veteran sailors and yachts of the first ARC taking part in ARC 2010 and
World Cruising Club is preparing an especially warm welcome for them!
World Cruising Club's Jeremy Wyatt says, "The first ARC was a great adventure for all
those involved, especially families sailing with children. Family boats have always been
an important part of the rally ever since the first ARC in 1986. We would love to hear
from anyone who was under 16 years old when they sailed in ARC'86; we'd like to
know your story, your memories of the ARC, whether you still sail now as an adult. We
know you 'ARC kids' are out there, so please get in touch!"
Contact World Cruising Club at mai@worldcruising, com or post a message via the
website at www. worldcruising, com.

Jolly Harbour YC News
Jolly Harbour Yacht Club (JHYC) of Antigua hosts a sailing event every Saturday all
year long, including winter, spring, summer and autumn race series each with seven
races, and trips to other islands, destinations or events. Everyone is welcome to sail on
Saturday or come take a weekend trip.
JHYC's Youth Sailing Program, which teaches Antiguan kids to sail for free, helped
sailing to become part of the national curriculum in Antigua schools and is working
with the Government to expand the program to as many children a possible.
For more information visit www.JHYCAntigua. com.


What's New:

* More Local Boaters

* WiFi an Anchorage Must

* Grenada Customs & Immigration

Officers Conquer 'Most Efficient

and Courteous' List

The results of the 2010 Caribbean Compass Readers' Survey, our fifth in 15 years,
have just been tallied. We want to stay on the course readers like best, so i .-1. -
to all who took the time to share your opinions, concerns and suggestions i '.
you mentioned you'd like to be able to complete future surveys on-line; we'll keep
that in mind.) Although this is not a scientific survey, the information it gathers gives
a good indication of who Compass readers are, what content is desired in a Caribbean
.,i rag, and what issues are important to the Caribbean ...... immunity.
taken note of what you'd like to see more (and less) of "' I..i... issues of
Compass, so stay tuned!
We'll be sharing pertinent information with the appropriate government agencies
and other groups, and using the rest to bring you an ever-improving Compass. And
we think that anyone interested in the Caribbean boating community and yacht
tourism industry will find intriguing trends in the results.
Who Answered the Survey?
As in previous surveys, the typical Compass survey respondent in 2010 is a regu
lar repeat or long-term visitor to the Caribbean -r=;;n -; the islands aboard his or
her own yacht, which is usually on the move. ... n1,I.- of 11' I .i.... -sitors
said that they came to the Caribbean with the intention of -1 .. I ..." than
one year, and many have been here for a decade. (We know we also have lots of
other readers who are short-term visitors, but who didn't see the survey in the April
2010 issue.)
But we saw a demographic shift in the 2010 survey. Now, for the first time, we had
a quite significant proportion -a third of all respondents -who are boat-owning
citizens or legal residents of Caribbean countries. In our 2004 survey, only about 17
percent of respondents were local boaters.
As usual, respondents were almost equally divided between male and female, but
now the 25-to-44 year old cohort is making inroads on the majority, who are in the
45-and-over group. (Note that it is not unusual for ,,;1 11 .; 1 .ders to be over
represented, and younger ones under-represented, i.. -... ..- type. The over
45s apparently tend to have fewer distractions and more time to complete surveys.)
As in previous surveys, the overwhelming majority of respondents report that they
read the Compass every month and usually read most articles, rating them highly.
The places where views and opinions get aired -your own Readers' Forum and
What's on My Mind departments -continue to receive top marks. Some readers
i, i 1' .111. ,i. 'they don't read certain columns, they realize that they are impor
t ., I i ,I E~ example: "I don't race, so Regatta News doesn't interest me much,
but lots of folks love it." Even departments that do not have universal appeal have
their handful of ardent fans.
There was a good geographical spread of responses received from Puerto Rico
i ....i, i. Lesser Antilles to the ABCs. Printed copies of the Compass are report
I find, and more than two-thirds of these copies are read by two or more
people. The majority of respondents hold onto a hard copy of Compass for a month
or more.
Survey respondents always say they find the advertisements in Compass "useful"
or "very useful". To nail down what they mean by this, one of the new questions in
the 2010 survey asked if readers have actually purchased products or services after
reading about them in the Compass. The majority of respondents say they have.
Another new question asked if readers recommend the Compass to their friends.
The unanimous answer was "yes".
We also asked readers about the following issues:
Yacht Security
Three years ago, 60 percent of respondents "agreed" or "strongly agreed" that
"Security for yachts is getting to be more of a problem", which showed a slight
decrease from earlier surveys. But this year, that figure has increased to 75 percent.
In 2007, 62 percent of respondents disagreed with the statement: "Local author
ties are taking adequate action to ensure security." This year, an alarming 85 per
cent indicated that they feel action taken by local authorities to ensure security is
inadequate. One respondent added, "We all need to be proactive and aware of our
own security."
In light of this, it is interesting that about the same proportion of respondents as
in our 2004 and 2007 surveys -approximately three-quarters -still feel that "The
Caribbean is relatively safe compared to most other tourist destinations".
The Environment
As in previous surveys, more people are in favor of the introduction of marine
parks than not, I 1 i 1 'h i 1 1 I .. -
ment of the park Ij . I ...... .
Therewas: 1 .'11 r
a cou n try, p .,i i i i I -1. .II 1 1 1 I i i I 11' I I i f
yachts' garbage". One respondent noted, "Garbage is littering the n-i-r V := No
one wants to see it, but it also seems no one wants i i i
As in previous surveys, the ,,, .i ,I I 1 .. I. I i ,I ,. ..- I
be banned on small islands .1 .i I. .1.1 -", but one respondent added
a caveat: "You should be able to leave it there if they sell it."
A Desirable Anchorage
According to this year's survey respondents, as always in the past, a desirable
.- i-r has, far above all else, a clean environment and friendly people. In the
I .. the next most desirable feature was a brand-new one: WiFi. Following,
in descending order of importance, are: dinghy docks, fuel and water, and a security
patrol. Rated as not quite so important were shops and restaurants, marina facilities
and moorings.
Heading the list of features that make an anchorage undesirable are: security
problems, overcrowding with moorings and docks, an unclean environment, harass
ment, noise, and overcrowding with boats. "Cruise ships", "wake from ferries", and

"speeding dinghies" were undesirable features added as write ins. Lack of facilities
in general did not especially make an anchorage undesirable, but lack of "garbage
disposal facilities" was a common write-in concern.
Once again, fully 100 percent of survey respondents say they prefer to be in
areas without jet-skis. One respondent pointed out, however, that, "In terms of
noise, jet skis and planing dinghies are indistinguishable. It is what they do that
makes them vile."
Are good free anchorages becoming hard to find? Here's a conundrum: half the
respondents who answered this question said yes and the other half said no!
In another new question, we asked, "What makes a 'working' (repairs, mainte
nance, etcetera) destination desirable?" Skilled service providers headed the list,
followed by low crime rate, value for money and, to a lesser degree, favorable weath
er and duty-free concessions. Additional features desired added as write-ins were:
"easy access to parts", "oil, diesel and battery disposal", "professional attitudes", and
"no mosquitoes!"
Customs & Immigration
Seventy-seven percent of this year's respondents agree that most Customs and
....... .. officers in the Caribbean are efficient and courteous, down just slightly
S ... I t survey.
In our last three surveys, respondents said that they found the "most efficient and
courteous" Customs and Immigration officials on the islands of Bequia and
Martinique. But this time Grenada -which was voted "least efficient and courteous"
in the 2001 survey -surged far into the lead. Kudos to Grenada for this emphatic
Martinique placed a solid second "most efficient and courteous" for the fourth time
in a row, representing 12 years of consistent performance.
"The French islands" -Martinique, Guadeloupe, and St. Barth's -if taken as a
whole, would have come out on top, and the Grenadines -Bequia, Union and
Carriacou if taken as a whole, would have tied for second place with Grenada.
We will have a private word with the ports named "least efficient and courteous".

-L C. 3 ir r' P

.,.. ',, _. .- i *

.. .H ..nog.. .pt i

.c I

r- 1

*Ct { ...^ l, .

We also asked readers for te first time whether or not they use te eSeaClear
system where it is available. (ESeaClear is a voluntary system of electronic pre
arrival Customs notification for yachts traveling in the Eastern Caribbean, based on
a standardized Customs clearance form. It gives yacht skippers the option of filling
out Customs clearance forms on line in advance of arrival at a port of entry rather
than doing so by hand upon arrival.) Virtually all respondents said "no", giving a
wide' .1 : f ., including: "worried .1 ...I ..... .. I .'. I on comput
ers", .... .. unaccountable and .... tricks", and
"yachts don't run to a timetable". A number of answers were similar: "most islands
are not ready", "computer at destination not working", "have not found it available"
and "haven't come across it yet". However, the sole respondent who uses it says it is
convenient" and wishes it were available in all ports of entry.
In our report on the 2004 Readers' Survey, we wrote: "There is a loud and clear call
in this fourth survey for sub regional unity regarding yacht clearance. Readers sug
gest that Customs and Immigration procedures be standardized (and even comput
erized) for the entire Eastern Caribbean." And in answer to this year's question
What other issues are of importance to you?" one respondent echoed that common
and long standing plea: "To make the Eastern Caribbean chain of islands a one
entry/exit zone for yachts, so that clearing in and out for each island becomes
unnecessary" Some tings never change. Or will they?
unnecessary." Some things never change. Or will they?:


Captain William T. Shorey andjamnly




by Norman Faria

July 13th, 2010 is the 151st anniversary of the birth in Barbados of William T.
Shorey. In 1886, he was the first African-American to captain a whaling vessel on
the west coast of the United States, and one of the first nationwide.
Perhaps more importantly, his inspirational working life in the whaling industry,
which was so important at the time, underscored the contribution of immigrants to
the United States. They helped build up that great country's economy and all aspects
of its social life and culture. Some, like Captain Shorey, were from the Caribbean,
even at that early date.
Captain Shorey died in 1919 in Oakland, California where he had retired with his
American wife Julia Ann, who died in 1944. He is one of the featured individuals in
a succinct but little-known work titled Black Hands, White Sails: The Story ofAfrican
American Whalers by Patricia McKissack and Frederick McKissack (published in
1999 by Scholastic Inc., New York, and available at amazon.com).
Whaling in the 1800s was a major part of the US fisheries sector. Whale oil was
extensively used for lubricating machinery and for consumer items such as candles
and soaps. By 1850, there were more than 500 US whale ships in both the Atlantic
and Pacific Oceans. The ships stayed away from home port for as long as four years.
Some of them visited the Caribbean in pursuit of the whales. Sometimes, as they put
into port for food and rest, the captains =1n1 -'n men from the islands as part of
the crew. Most likely this is how Captaii got to Boston, Massachusetts in
1876 at the age of 17. The son of a Scottish-born planter and a black woman in
Barbados, he probably signed on as a cabin boy.
The focus of the book is on the relatively high number of black sailors and those
from the Caribbean area, the Cape Verde islands and Native American communities,
in the whaling industry. Some rose to be prominent businesspeople and shipbuild
ers. According to the McKissacks, by 1850 some 20 percent of the 3,000 whaling
seafarers out of New Bedford, one of the main fishing harbours on the northeastern
US seaboard, were Afro-American.
There were two main reasons for this relatively high figure. One was ii. i 1.1....
was an opportunity for black (and some Amerindian) slaves to obtain ... .
freedom. The sailors were actually given a special identification paper that permitted
them to move freely in ports where slavery was still practised. It must be remem-
bered that commercial whaling really got underway in the 1700s, over a hundred
years before. Slavery in the US was formally abolished in 1865 but a ship landed
slaves from Africa in Alabama as late as 1859.

Secondly, New Bedford (Nantucket was another main --+.li;n port) and the sur
r-niiiiI;; t--hii-= -vere home to many Quakers. This I-I religious group was
S.i .. i i ,i against slavery. The word had got around that they had long
freed their slaves. The area was also a staging area, or stop, on the "Underground
Railroad" escape route for slaves travelling toward Canada and freedom. Some
Quakers were, however, themselves unscrupulous businesspeople.
One black (his mother was an Amerindian) ship owner named Paul Cuffe (died
1817) was a Quaker. Cuffe himself captained some of his ships and visited the west
coast of Africa and the West Indies with cargo. His vessels were mostly black crewed.
Again, it is likely that some Caribbean young men came to the US that way during
that time.
As an aside, there is evidence that a number of white whalers jumped ship in the
islands. That is how the ongoing indigenous and allowable whaling activity in Bequia
in the St. Vincent Grenadines was mainly started. There were also small whaling
stations in Barbados, at and around the west coast town of Speightstown, during
this period.
Whaling life, or "going oiling" as the workers said, was rough. Cautioned the
McKissacks: "Even though the Quakers might have been socially liberal, their influ
ence stopped at land's end... Once out at sea, men of colour were often at the mercy
of bigoted captains, prejudiced mates, and racist crew members." Generally though,
from what I read of the industry in other sources, black and white and other coloured
working-class sailors got on well together. Because of safety factors, they had to
work as a team and in ;-;-r.l they realized their interests were the same. All
"greenies" (the term .. i' .. being so seasick that their faces turned a sort of
green colour), ordinary seamen, would get only 1/120th of the profit of the ship at
the end of the voyage. The ship's owners alone took 50 percent while the captain and
officers received a sizeable portion. The McKissacks also write that the studies of
ships' logs and other records show that "lays" (the pay received at end of voyage) of
blacks were lower than whites who had the same qualifications.
In other ways, for both black and white, a sailor's life at the time had its tribula
tions. Food was less than satisfactory. Fr-,7 --- t -1 -. -.; ":round provisions", as
the Caribbean sailors would say, like i ,i ... I .11 a few weeks. Living
conditions in the cramped crews' quarters up in the bows were filthy. They could
never get rid of lice they brought from the rooming houses of unscrupulous land
lords (some of them black). Stale smells like that of blubber oil and sweat abounded.
Loneliness was a problem on long voyages, with the singing of sea chanties and
making of scrimshaw something to while away the time. One's life could easily be
lost to an angry whale attacking the flimsy small whaleboat from which the mam-
mals were killed with harpoons. i ... I ... ... 1 only 20 percent of the black sail
ors returned for a second trip, tl. ...I11 I I., was probably near that for white
sailors as well.
The New Bedford and neighboring Boston areas had a high proportion of black
Portuguese-speaking sailors who settled there and eventually intermarried with local
(Amerindian and white) women. The men had been signed on in the Cape Verdes, a
group of islands off Africa that were colonised by Portugal.
By the time Captain William Shorey came ashore in 1908 with his family (his wife
would often accompany him on his whaling trips before their two sons and daugh
ters came along) the writing was on the wall for the industry. Oil (petroleum) was
being commercially pumped in the mid 1800s; it would be a substitute for whale oil.
It came just in time for the
cetaceans, too. By then,
they were virtually wiped
out in most of the Atlantic.
Today, owing significantly B L A C K
to the work of Greenpeace L A KL
and other environmental
groups, the great whales
are largely protected, HANDS
although that might
change with a .....
the International I. .. W H I
Commission meeting that
is underway as this issue
of Compass goes to press.
The value of this Black
Hands, White Sails is that
it highlights the impor I- a '..f
tant inputs of immigrants
in a little known area of
US society, and the role of
ethnic minorities, partic
ularly black people, in
that contribution. We
note, in contrast to the
situation today, the rela
tively easy way the over
seas born could enter the
US. Shorey himself was
probably given a slip of
paper by the ship's cap
tain and he obtained resi
dency status that way. It
is not known if Captain
Shorey ever returned to
Barbados on one of his 22
voyages. There are several
Shorey families still on
the island and it would be
interesting to see if any
have connections to this
remarkable man.
Unlike others such as Frederick Douglass (who caulked whale ships' seams as
one of his jobs), and Cuffe, who were civil rights activists, Captain Shorey's contribu
tion was 1. ...1. iiis own unstinting dedication to disciplined, honest work and
intelligent I ...... I courageous leadership as a ship's captain. Moreover, he is an
inspiration for those who continue with the time honoured traditions of travelling
and making homes in other countries, working with people of other races.

A former merchant seaman on the Geest Line, Norman Farfa is a Compass corre
spondent in Barbados

JULY 2010
y ARIES (21 Mar 20 Apr)

d TAURUS (21 Apr 21 May)
Early this month there might be static on your personal

t GEMINI (22 May 21 Jun)
Your energy for marine business dealings will be low.
S1 1 1 ....I .... 1. t alate and this could be a
... 1 1 '. 1 the helm and all condi

CANCER 0 (22 Jun 23 Jul)
This will be an easy time for you, so relax and do some
thing fun. Throw a cockpit party or sail to new places.
Q LEO (24 Jul 23 Aug)
As romance wanes, your creative communications will
be under full sail. Take I .. I ,,. I... to express
your ideas on ways to in.i, i 1 11
Tp VIRGO (24 Aug 23 Sep)
Nautical business matters will be enlightened by your
enthusiasm and work ethic. Along sails romance mid
month to add warmth to the mix and also bring an extra
positive note to your business dealings.
I LIBRA (24 Sep 23 Oct)
Creative endeavors will be a beat to windward and com-
munications garbled, so give *.. 11 and your cruising
companions) a break. Find a I I. 1 -nI f -1-.--
entertainment for them so you can have I I
self and just veg out.
TiL SCORPIO (24 Oct 22 Nov)
1111.11 1 I
ebbs and leaves you high and dry at the end of the month.
SAGITTARIUS (23 Nov 21 Dec)
Romance will flow for the first two weeks but could later
i .t- F i i- I- I ..... ..i I i ..... i I
111 I II ,,i i i1, ,,1 ... .. i1,

6 CAPRICORN (22 Dec 20 Jan)
Whatever creative attempt you invest in this month will
end up foundering, so concentrate instead on a positive
boating business aspect and the romance that will sail in
to distract you mid-month.
^ AQUARIUS (21 Jan 19 Feb)
It looks like a rough passage for roman ,
11111nt o ^c i ;;1-4 n lt-lln tl-r ; tbls :,, ti
I ,, i I I, I don't make an issue
out of anything; July will pass.
= PISCES (20 Feb 20 Mar)
This month should see the last of any boat-business
n-htmlr-a but ease your mainsheet any efforts to
I... recess will only make things worse. Too much
S r related problems may have detrimental
Sur love life.

Crossword Solution
6) SEA 29) DOGS 11) SLAPS
9) RAIN 35) BAY 16) SHUT
14) DECK 39) SIREN 20) BOATS
19) SSB DOWN 31) ON
23) OUT 2) MAIN 33) FERRY
25) BUS 3) CLANK 37) HORN
26) BAR 4) FAN

Pirates of the Southern Caribbean:


The passage from Grenada to Trinidad's fair isle,
Has just a bit more challenge and requires a bit more guile.
You're often hard upon the wind and currents do not aid,
And Venezuelan pirates some traps for us have laid.

A yachtsman's greatest nightmare -to be stopped by force at sea,
But dreaming will not help at all what's now reality.
One yacht has just been boarded and stripped with pointed gun.
This is no joke -not anymore -something must be done.

Other yachts have had their share of incidents no longer rare.
Of boats that follow in the night, keeping quiet just out of sight.
Of boats that circle round a yacht with men both hard and mean,
And only disappear again when the yachtsman's guns are seen.

We've also heard from Curacao, a woman has been found,
Thirteen days in a liferaft -news that will astound.
We hear her husband has been killed, for now we know no more.
But fear again its pirates that are knocking at our door.

The boatyards are all worried that the ;11 -; 1 .. Ide,
The yachts will all stay north of here i I 11 .11 .. I get paid.
The Government is idle, it seems it does not care.
Just keep it quiet for goodness sake and out of public glare.

But listen now they have decreed,
What we should do to make godspeed:
Report to Coastguards at each end.
There'll be more paperwork to tend.

If we get caught when we're at sea, what can the Coastguard do for me?
Grenada does not have the boats, so plans like this will get no votes.
Some say we should all sail at night, quite secretive without a light.
So pirates will not see us there; this crazy plan we will not wear.

The Coastguard fleet in Trinidad has grown and is now vast;
Its ships and boats are nice and new and all of them are fast.
i. ... i .... i nd never hit a rock
I ... .. -.... boats all tied up to the dock.

Try calling on the VHF, the Coastguard is forever deaf.
The cell phone is no good for ships 'cause out at sea there are no pips.
Their manpower numbers are so thin and make those unused boats a sin.
A few patrols right round the clock would have the pirates taking stock.

We see the Coastguards in the bays in waters nice and still,
But never see them out at sea, out where the oilmen drill.
They should patrol those waters and get us safely through.
This would be good for training and use their boats so new.

If Trinis will not help the yachts, of other boatyards there are lots.
Grenada's growing sure and fast, for Ivan's blow is in the past.
1, Coastguard fleet to sea, train the men, don't just drink tea.
i 1I ... butt and do a job; the yachts are not just here to rob.

Skipper of S/YRocco Relic



"I think that crosswind may have
drifeld us a bit off course. "


Compass Cruising Crossword 'NOISY HARBORS'

Everybody knows that cruisers are total fashionistas,
spuming Georgio Armani, embracing Henri Lloyd, and
setting unique clothing trends worldwide! Check your
fashion sense with this word puzzle by Pauline Dolinski.



_1 ., i I I, ,

111 1 ... ,h ,IhI ,II .. .... I .. ... .

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Word Search Puzzle solution on page 22






Ili i i- ^-3



by Lee Kessell

Ugly ducklings turn into beautiful swans, but Lucinda, who was already a
beautiful swan, thought she was an ugly duck. How could this be?
Lucinda lived on a Caribbean Island with the rest of her flock, but how did they
get there? Swans live north or south of the equator, migrating to feeding
grounds, but they never cross over the tropics. Well, one year this particular
flock got caught up in a hurricane that ripped across America and they were
blown all the way to Dominica! Lucinda, the swan who thought she was a duck,
hadn't even been born when this happened but her parents looked a real mess
when they fell out of the sky and landed in a hidden lake. Not many of the swans
had survived and all of them looked like ugly, stretched-neck ducks instead of
snowy plumed swans. Their feathers, what was left of them, were gray and
grizzled and their heads were quite bald.
Lucinda's mother had laid her only egg very shortly after they had landed and
when the egg hatched, the little baby looked upon her scruffy-looking mother
and thought she was a duck.
As time went by, Lucinda lost her grey cyg- t f .t.: ..t; .1 -- 1 .. .
beautiful, pure white swan. By this time, the -..''. I I .-. I .....i.

How did they get there?

They were blown all the way to Dominica!

of their own and the male swans courted Lucinda. But poor Lucinda, who saw
herself as an .1 stretched-neck duck like her mother, thought that they were
making fun o: I' and she felt so depressed that she hung her head in shame.
Lucinda's parents had not lived very long after Lucinda had grown into a grace
ful cygnet so she had no one to tell her that she really was a swan and it seemed
that she would live out her life alone and miserable.
Like all swans, Lucinda knew how to feed herself. Floating on the Freshwater
Lake in the Morne Trois Pitons National Park, she would up-end her tail and
plunge down to the shallow bottom and snare whatever there was to eat down
there. She grabbed little fish or plants with the serrations that were like sharp
little teeth on the sides of her bill. She took her food to the surface where she
swallowed it down because swans' necks are too long for them to swallow under
water. She also ate whatever weeds and plants grew along the margins of the
lake and she knew how to preen her feathers to keep them waterproof.
Now one day, Lucinda strayed off into a narrow arm of the lake and before she
realized it she was trapped in a thicket of tangled sprigs and thorns. She tried

her best to chew off the twigs but she couldn't turn around and she couldn't dive
down either. No one missed Lucinda that first night but when she didn't show
up the next night, the swans thought she had flown away, all except Sven, a
young male who loved Lucinda. So at the first hint of dawn, Sven swam rapidly
around the margins of the lake and just when he thought that Lucinda had
indeed flown away, he discovered the narrow side channel and he carefully
paddled up it until he saw the tangle of twigs and thorns and there, caught in
the middle, was the slumped back and bent head of Lucinda.
Sven called to her in his throaty honking voice and when she didn't answer he
was filled with terrible anxiety. So he called again and this time Lucinda opened
one dim eye and gave a faint little honk in reply. This put new heart into Sven
so he used those sharp serrations on the side of his bill with furious energy to
chop his way through the tangles of briars to get to Lucinda. When he had
cleared a passage he stroked Lucinda's head with his bill and then lowered his
neck, filled his bill with water and poured it over her. He did this again and again
until he saw that .. 1. .i 1 tri-l-li; into her parched throat. He now
caressed her with I' 11 .... i -., i I i,- I 11 gently reviving her and whispered
that he loved her, always had, always would and could never live without her.
Lucinda heard this as if in a dream and dreamlike, she opened her eyes and
found that she was gazing into the bright, black eyes of a brilliant white swan.
Lucinda 1. ...1.1 she had died and was being led into heaven, so she followed
Sven out I 11. channel. Once at the margin of the lake, Sven stopped and
begged Lucinda to be his wife, promising to love and care for her for the rest of
their lives. Lucinda looked at Sven in wonder, suddenly realizing that she hadn't
-,- to heaven after all, but was back on the lake.
I ,, I am an 11 1- r-- stretched-neck duck! How could you love me?"
"I love you: 11 You are kind and gentle and I would love you even if
you were the ugliest bird that ever lived, but Lucinda you are not ugly and I'll
prove it." He led her into the middle of the lake where the water was just like a
mirror and told her to look down. "Tell me what you see.
Lucinda looked down and saw a beautiful pure white swan. "I see YOU. I see
a handsome white swan.
"Look again." And Sven moved over to float next to her.
"I see two white swans!"
"Yes. The first one is YOU, Lucinda!"
It took a little time for Lucinda to be convinced but before the day was over,
she and Sven were feedi',. I i1 ... I promising never to part.
So you see, Sven was : ,I I I i i..- loyalty and Lucinda learned that it isn't
how you look that matters, it's how you are inside that brings true love.

,, /_ .....f:" / We know that seagrass and terrestrial grasses are similar but what are the dif
I'. ferences between them? Grass leaves on land have a shiny top layer of cells (the
Sf ; cuticle) that protects the leaves from water. The green chloroplast cells, which are
." needed for photosynthesis, form a layer underneath the cuticle. Seagrass leaves
have no cuticle as
DOL S they don't need pro
tection from water
DOLand their chloro
P Tplasts are in the
Souter layer of cells
DEEP SECRETSso that they can
by Elaine Ollivierre catch as much sun
by ne light as possible
1 through the seawa
Do you remember the little seahorse we studied last month? How does the sea- ter. Terrestrialleaves
horse spend most of its day? Seahorses don't swim very well so they spend a lot have tiny holes
of time resting with their tails wrapped around stationary objects on the sea floor. called stomata on
Their favourite habitat, apart from the coral reef, is seagrass, which provides the underside to
anchor points for their tails. It also provides the necessary camouflage for the allow 7, in and
seahorse with its waving green leaves. out ol ul leaf for
What is seagrass? It's the only vascular plant that can grow completely under photosynthesis and
seawater. Vascular means that the plant has internal tubes that carry water, 'I respiration.Seagrass
gases and nutrients around the plant. Seagrass has leaves, stems and roots just 90 leaves obtain the
like grass found on land and it grows in large areas called 'meadows' which gases they need from
resemble terrestrial grassy fields. the seawater by dif
There are three n1.i. f ;- ::; in the Caribbean. Turtle grass (Thalassia fusion through the leaf surface. This is a difficult process so the leaves can store
testudiunim has l ... II .1 1 .1 ut an inch wide, rounded at the end. Shoal the gases in tubes called lacunae.
grass (Hcaodule wrightir) also has long flat leaf blades but they are much thinner Seagrass is an important organism in the marine environment. We'll find out
than turtle grass and the ends are blunt. The lea-- f n, .t -; .... (Stringodium why next month.
filiforme) are like thin cylinders with a circular -. .. 11 .e grasses are
found in coastal waters where the water is shallow enough to ,.,,.,i I.... Experiment to find the stomata on a leaf
Seagrass needs the energy from sunlight for photosynthesis tc ... .1 I I Place a leaf in a pan of water and heat gently. Look closely at the underside of
What are the differences between .. 1 seaweed? Seaweed is a type of the leaf while it is in the water. You will see tiny bubbles or ; ... 11 under sur
algae with no root systems. Seagras .... plant with extensive root sys face of the leaf. As the leaf gets hotter, the air inside the *' I out of the
teams that hold the seagrass securely to the sea bottom, stomata. So the bubbles will show you where the stomata are located.

Lu --------------------------------- m



by Scott Welty

The Planets in July
This month Mercury, Venus, Mars and Saturn are lined in the western sky after
sunset, with Mercury being the lowest and on up to Saturn. Venus will be the bright
est (see Figure 1). As the month goes on Mercury, Venus and Mars will appear
higher and higher and closer to Saturn. Keep track of these four as the month goes
on. Mercury will present its usual viewing challenge, being so close to the sun, and
won't be high enough until mid-month.
JUPITER -Rising around midnight all month.
EARTH -Overslept.
Sky Events This Month
July 11 New Moon
July 14 Pretty crescent moon joins the party just to the left of Venus (see Figure 1)
July 25 -Full Moon

July 31 -A nice grouping of Mercury, Venus, Mars and Saturn. Look west after
sunset (see Figure 2). This grouping will get ,,, i.1i I T days into 11.
Venus moving up to join Mars and Saturn. -. ..I I I .... I watch day .11 i .
Any day Looking southeast this month gives you a wide choice of globular clus
ters and nebulae to try to find. Most of the ones shown in Figure 3 are just barely
visible with the naked eye in dark skies as little smears but will 'pop out' with bin
oculars. Some details...
Clusters There are
two kinds here: Open
Cluster and Globular
Cluster. Both are col
elections of stars that
are bound by their
mutual gravity. A
Globular Cluster is an
older and more tightly
connected collection.
They are actually
orbiting our main gal
axy, the Milky Way.
An Open Cluster is
newer, more loosely
connected and is with
in the disk of
the galaxy.
Nebulae These are
gas clouds and they
are connected, in one
way or another, with
the life cycle of stars.
On one end a nebula
may be interstellar
gas and dust that is
to collapse
S stars. On
the other end a nebula
can be the dying frag
ments of a star that
has lived its life and
then went out in a
blaze of glory* as a
super nova.
As you can see
below, some of these
things have names
while all of them have
an "M" designation.
The M stands for
Messier Object after
the Frenchman
Charles Messier (pro
nounced "Messy, eh?"
in Canadian) who in
1771 compiled a list of
45 'smeary' objects
that were annoying
him in his quest to
discover comets. Some
Messier objects turned
out to be other galax
ies while others are
the clusters and nebu
lae discussed above.
Eventually the list
expanded to 110
objects (see Figure 5).

Details from Figure 3:
WILD DUCK CLUSTER (M11) Open cluster of about 3,000 stars, 6,000 light years
away. In dark skies visible to the naked eye as a fuzzy ball of light. With a telescope
and maybe with binoculars there is a "V' shape and hence the name as it resembles
d i.... I
S (M16) Famous for the Hubble telescope picture entitled Pillars
of( ,- 1
O II 'i', i I I -j visible to naked eye. Has shape like Greek letter omega.
TRIFID NEBULA (M20) This along with M21 and M8 should fit in the same bin
ocular view. Try it!
SAGITTARIUS CLUSTER (M22) The third brightest of all clusters. Shows up well
with binoculars.
M23 100 stars in an open cluster. Nice dark background for binocular viewing.
LAGOON NEBULA Hazy patch approximately 5,000 light years away. Embedded
globules show the presence of active star formation.
M6 and M7 Two open clusters. Both should fit in your binoculars at once.

To Contemplate While Having a Glass of Wine on Deck
*Going out in a blaze of glory...
Interesting how star lives parallel human lives. A fast burning "show off' star will
accordingly have a shorter life (James Dean) than a dimmer, long lived star that
burns more steadily and less ostentatiously (Andy Rooney). Also, the big, hot show
off will in fact go out in a 'blaze of glory" that we call a super nova. We're all familiar
with the concept of going out in a blaze of glory, but what real or fictional character
has actually done this? I have my vote. I'll take James r F n y-l ol-in Cody Jarrett
at the end of White Heat when he says, "Made it, Ma...- 1 11 .I I and he then
blows up the gas storage tank that he's standing on. Who's your favorite? Discuss.

Scott Welty is the author of The Why Book of Sailing, Burford Books, 2007.
Figure 1: The planets and crescent moon, as they will line up on July 14th, 1915 hours
Figure 2: The arrangement on the 31st, also at 1915 hours
Figure 3: Looking southeast at 2100 hours on July 15th. Let Scorpius be your guide.
Two bright stars in the field of view are Altair and Antares


Doolittle's Restaurant
Ai l.h 1 i Dinner Specials & Entertainment
Monday: Ladies' Night
(Ladies dine free when accompanied by a gentleman)
Tuesday: Surf & Turf (Limbo Dancing/Fire Eating)
Wednesday: Trio of Fish (Live Entertainment)
Thursday: All-You-Can-Eat Pasta
Friday: Steak Night
Saturday: Bar-B-Q Buffet (Live Entertainment)
Sunday: Full a la Carte Menu
Doolittle's Restaurant provides free Wi-Fi
for all its guests and patrons.
A la Carte menu also available with nightly dinner specials.
Call us on Channel 16 to reserve your table,
we will then pick you up and return you to your yacht.
info@marigotbeachclub.com / www.marigotdiveresort.com






Boca Chica, Dominican Republic

I Guides that just

keep getting

r T better



&ies Goods
it fEssential

f I_ by Ross Mavis

With the emphasis on fresh food these days, the lowly can of tuna, salmon or sardines
is often looked down upon with disdain. That disdain is misplaced, I say, as many a
great lunch or supper has been made, and still can be made, from canned items.
The history of canning food to preserve it for later consumption is not new. As early
as the mid-1800s, British expeditions such as that of John Franklii ..... 11.
Northwest Passage with their food supplies supplemented by crudely *
Regrettably, it is thought that the lead in the soldered seam of those cans caused
poisoning that killed many of the Franklin crewmembers.
But in 1824, Sir William Edward Parry's third ----- to the Arctic used canned
food with success. As a matter of fact, a can of i ... i gravy from his voyage of
1824 was found and opened in 1939. Tests proved the contents to be safe and palat
able after more than 100 years.
That being said, food preserved in cans should be discarded if the cans are bloated
or damaged. Dented cans should be avoided as the dent may allow leakage and
i -l l -t cans or those that spurt their contents when opened indicate
i ... and botulism from spoiled food is deadly.
Today, there isn't a galley anywhere that doesn't have at least one can opener or a
device capable of opening canned food. Although my wife and I don't use canned
foods often, tins of lobster, crab, salmon, tuna and sardines are always a part of our
larder. When the time is right, a tin of salmon is turned quickly into delightful
salmon sandwiches for lunch. A wonderful fish casserole is also easily prepared by
baking canned salmon with eggs and diced onion. For a quick appetizer when friends
or family come alongside unexpectedly, we unashamedly serve sardines on toast
points with mayonnaise, hot mustard and diced onion.
Many a tin of lobster and Finnan Haddie finds its way into Willa's delightful fish
chowder. And only yesterday, I made crab cakes for supper from (you guessed it)
canned crab. If you are a mariner, no doubt many items of canned food are safely
stowed in your galley. Tins of pork and beans, corned bee -i ... ... ..i -
of all kinds and even devilled ham serve boaters very well. I I ii .. ... .. .'
the time she traded tins of luncheon meat for bottled camp stove fuel to a boater
wanting the meat supplies.

In Hawaii, where we visited a while back, the finest restaurants proudly feature
Spam in various recipes. Yes, that's correct: Spam! One of the original canned pro
cessed luncheon meats so berated by many of us North Americans is considered a
delicacy in i ... i ... I I .. .. i i, 1.1 ... i I I -n-; r- r- --1 t,
u se sim ple t ..... II I.. I h ih- 1 I I I .. I . 1I- ,1 1 1h 1 I..
th e lab el to I, I I...... I. I I ., I I II I I II II.... h,,h
a tin of salmon, tuna or crab inyour pantrywheny ,. I 1 i ,, I I I, ,,, i
or a quick and easy supper. Besides, like the game show, the price is right.
Here's our Tide's Table crab cake recipe that Willa claims is better than any she
had when living in the southern United States many years ago.
Tide's Table Crab Cakes
1 .1 .... (225 g) tin of crab meat, drained
1, .i- ml) dried breadcrumbs
1 1 ['i mustard
1 Tablespoon (15 ml) Worcestershire sauce
Scant 1/4 Cup (50 ml) mayonnaise
1 teaspoon (5 ml) lemon juice
1 Tablespoon (15 ml) diced garlic
2 teaspoons (10 ml) paprika
1 green onion, chopped
Chopped parsley
1 Tablespoon (15 ml) butter
1 Tablespoon (15 ml) vegetable oil
Flour to dredge
Pick through the crab meat to remove any pieces of shell. After draining the meat,
place in a large glass bowl and mix in the breadcrumbs. In a small separate bowl,
combine beaten egg, dry mustard, Worcestershire sauce, mayonnaise, lemon juice,
garlic and paprika. Blend well and then combine with crab and crumb mixture. Mix
in chopped green onion and parsley and form into small cakes about three inches
round and one inch thick. Lay these on a waxed paper-lined tray and chill in the
cooler for about 30 minutes or an hour. When ready, melt butter and oil in a hot fry
pan and dredge each crab cake in flour before frying until crispy, turning once. Serve
hot with lemon wedges or garlic mayo.
For answers to your food questions, contact Ross Mavis at Ross.Mavis@gmailcom.

Tffy W9 w(h

Tarragon is a small perennial herb of which only the leaves are edible. Two types are grown, the French variety
(Artemisia dracunculus) with glossy sharp licorice-smelling leaves and the much blander Russian type (Artemisia
dracunculoides). Most dried tarragon is French tarragon. This herb is excellent with seafood, fruits, poultry, eggs
and most vegetables, as well as sauces.
Tarragon is a relatively new arrival on the world herbal scene. Unlike many other herbs, it was not used by
ancient peoples. Native to remote areas of China and Russia, tarragon is believed to have been brought to Europe
by the invading Mongols in the 13th century. Today, its primary producer is France.
I ... . .... i i "the banishing herb". You'd burn the dried leaves while writing on paper what you
w .. I I .... -1. I i Ii .I I people Then you'd burn the paper with the remaining smoldering herb. It was also
known to put guests at ease and make them feel welcome. It was carried in packet charms or sachets for love,
peace and good luck.
Tarragon is the main ingredient in Bearnaise Sauce and the French favorite herb mixture, fines herbes. Tarragon
makes excellent flavored vinegar and herb butter, alone or in combination with other herb- I .. .. "-in-.r -
easy to make. Put fresh tarragon sprigs and distilled white vinegar into a sterilized bottle. ,
Continue steeping until it suits your taste. Once the taste is strong enough, remove the sprigs.
Heat greatly intensifies the flavo- -f t-.rrv both fresh and dried. Care should be taken when using tarragon
or it will overpower other flavors. i i I .... of fresh tarragon equals a third of a Cup. One Tablespoon of fresh
tarragon equals one teaspoon of dried.
Herb-Infused Oil
Select your favorite fresh or dried herbs. Consider
combinations including tarragon, rosemary,
thyme, basil, summer savory, oregano, chadon
bene '.'j'--n. chives, dill, mint, parsley and
".. .bay: i
P' ,Select a suitable oil such as sunflower, safflow
er, or extra-virgin olive oil.
S 1 Wash and dry your choice of herb branches.
SLightly bruise them to release the flavor. Place
Ni them in a clean glass container that seals tightly.
SWarm the oil slightly. Cover herbs with warm oil,
-... -. ,--. and seal.
a Leave in a cool, dark place for ten days or longer.
I (If you infuse olive oil it must be refrigerated.) If
S*.% not strong ..... for your taste add more herbs
I and reseal. 11 Jlo not strain the herbs out, the
S ', flavor will become stronger the longer it sits.
Refrigerate and use within two months. Use for
Sr salad dressings, cooking, or as a table condiment.
STarragon Salad Dressing
2 Tablespoons fresh t--. finely chopped
_2 Tablespoons fresh parsley, finely chopped
-. "J (or one teaspoon a g, ic
(or one teaspoon dried)
1 clove of garlic, minced
1/2 Cup sour cream
.. 1/2 Cup mayonnaise
S 1I Tablespoon fresh lemon juice
salt to taste
-. I In a bowl combine tarragon, parsley and garlic.
S< m o u Add sour cream, mayonnaise, lemon juice, and salt.
gh sBlend thoroughly.
Orange-Tarragon Mayonnaise
2 Cups fresh orange juice
1/2 Cup mayonnaise
1/2 Cup sour cream
2 teaspoons fresh *'rr' -n chopped
(or 3/4 teaspoon i,, ij
salt to taste
In a medium skillet heat the orange juice until it thickens to a syrup. It should reduce to three Tablespoons in
about 20 minutes over medium heat. Cool. Stir in the mayonnaise, sour cream, tarragon, and salt. Pour into a
tight sealing jar and refrigerate at least overnight.
Fines Herbs Mix
1 Tablespoon tarragon
1 Tablespoon chives
1 Tablespoon parsley
1 Tablespoon chervil
If using fresh herbs, wash, dryand 1. .11 ;,., ,, ....i ... .... ..1i Add this mix at the end ofthe
-l-1;; process to preserve the herbs 1i .. ..... i ... .... .. i ,
II ...... dried herbs, combine the herbs, place in a glass jar and seal tightly. Refrigerate.
For the Gardener
Tarragon is a great herb to grow if you can find someone who already has it in his or her spice -r-l-n Plant
French tarragon, not inferior Russian tarragon, which is a different species. French tarragon rarely, : makes
seed, so it must be grown from cuttings. Those who are growing it will have some to share because this herb grows
well with little effort; it requires little water.
It is a good cockpit or galley herb, but needs a good-sized (about eight to ten-inch), deep pot, because its roots
need plenty of room. Tarragon's name is from the Greek drakon, or dragon, because of its winding root system.
The tangled roots will strangle the plant if it is not divided often enough. It is best planted in sandy soil with
gravel at the bottom of the pot to facilitate drainage.
Keep this herb pruned so the plant is open to the breeze and try not to let it touch any other plant. H .'- t t.;n
when ready to cook with it. Cut about a third of a branch, then chop the leaves finely to fully release 11 ,

Stock Up
on the widest selection and the

best pnces in Grenada at our two
conveniently located supermarkets

Whether its canned goods, dairy
products, meat, fresh vegetables

or fruits, tolletnes, household goods,
or a fine selection of liquor and wine,
The Food Fair has it all and a lot more





The Carenage:
Monday Thursday
8 am to 5:30 pm
Friday until 8:45 pm
Saturday until
1:00 pm
Tel: (473) 440-2588
Grand Anse:
Monday Thursday
9 am to 5:30 pm
Friday & Saturday
until 7:00 pm
Tel: (473) 444-4573


to tell our advertisers you

saw their ad in Compass!

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fBoat Insurance

Any Cfra I ny Use, /ny Age, jwhre


Admiral Marne Ltd,4 BamackCenre, Blakey Rd, Salisbury, SPI 21 mu
Mail quotes@admiralyachtcom Web wwwadmiralyachtcom
el +44 (0)1722416106 Fax +44 (0)1722324455I
Admiral Manne Limited is authonsed & regulated by the Fmanaal Services Authority

Dear Compass,
I just finished reading yacht Panda's article on
Colombia's Bahia de Cholon in the March 2010 issue
of Compass and having spent the last two summers
there, I wanted to expand and/or clarify on a few of
Panda's comments. First I would like to say that
Cholon is a wonderful place with numerous places to
easily visit by dinghy, e----ll1-t -;- .l--1l n-arby and
good fishing. The local I .- 1., .1 .. .- to walk
with very friendly locals to visit with. We never consid
ered it "roughing it". Its a wonderful, quiet and safe
place that has become more and more popular over
the last three years as evident by the increasing num-
ber of cruisers that stop by. The bay is large enough
that one can almost always find a quiet and private
place away from other boaters if they want.
The entrance does have green and red buoys but as
Panda pointed out, caution to the depth sounder is
advised. Upon approach one can call on VHF channel
68, 72 or 74 and usually a cruiser will come out and
help guide the first-timer in (the VHF channel seems
to change frequently but is usually the same that is
used in Cartagena). For cruisers new to this area the
Northwest Caribbean Net operates daily on 6209.0
USB at 0815 Colombian time and for vessels under
way an even check-in at 1700 Colombian time is usu
ally available. Its a great source of information for
vessels headed this way.
Panda stated that the US dollar value can be deter
mined by dividing the Colombian peso by two and
-Ir-r'. A11 the zeros. That would make his example
I I ...... pesos worth only US$6, which would be a
great buy for the three lobsters. But the math is incor
rect as 120,000 pesos is roughly equivalent to US$60
and as Panda wrote, a very ridiculous price for the
lobsters. The easiest way to convert pesos to dollars is
to divide the peso by 2,000. Panda's caution is very
accurate in regards to the guys that paddle out to the
boat, so caution should be used when dealing with
these vendors.
One doesn't necessarily need to make the short
dinghy ride to Baru for gasoline, as its usually avail
able at one of the local tiendas that has a dock along
the shore of Cholon. We've never had to use a funnel
as the person selling the fuel does the transfer to our
tank for us. Fuel in Cholon and Baru is more expen
sive than in Cartagena so plan accordingly. We've
not had a problem with dirty fuel or water in the fuel
in Colombia.
On the south shore just opposite of the entrance to
Cholon is a small resort that has rooms, a bar and
restaurant and wireless internet service. The internet
is very reasonably priced at 5,000 pesos (US$2.50) an
hour. For long-term stays, as Panda pointed out, the
Comcel internet stick works quite well. The internet
stick costs about 100,000 pesos and is yours to keep,
and unlimited internet service runs about 85,000
pesos per mo:.i1. ii. ...1. i. re are daily and weekly
rates as well. I ,, the internet stick can be
recharged with any Comcel phone and minute cards
are available in Baru. And the town of Baru is not a
tourist destination; it is a small and poor Colombian
town with numerous tiendas, a few restaurants and
very friendly people.
It is a lovely place with plenty to do or, if one prefers,
i1... to do. On the holiday weekends there can be
I boat traffic as it is a vacation spot for the
wealthy Colombians. We like it there so much that we
just got our zarpe from Panama and are making our
way to Bahia de Cholon right now via the slow coastal
route for another summer stay.
The Crew
S/V Bruadair

Dear Scott Welty,
As the Compass astrologer, I take umbrage to the
implication in your astronomy column in April's issue
that there is little veracity in the ancient art of "reading

the stars". To attempt to debunk one of the oldest of
the occult crafts is an insult!
By the way... what's your sign?
Madame Claire Voyage
Milky Way

Dear Compass,
We would like to thank Compass and Charles and
Caroline Lamb for the letter they wrote in the Reader's
Forum, April issue, about their good experience in St.
Vincent. We endorse their article absolutely. We have
just had the same wonderful experience. We took nor
mal security precautions and felt very safe.
We like the more untouched islands, but had reser
vations about going to St. Vincent after talking to many
i1 .. -......... i i 1 :i- the island a miss, afraid
i .... i i .. I. Charles and Caroline's
letter we motored cautiously into Cumberland Bay, St.
Vincent. Joseph met us and offered to take our stern
line. He patiently waited while we motored around the
bay to check out the situation. We were ready to sail
on to Bequia if we didn't feel comfortable. There were
other boats in the bay and it is a protected anchorage
with a spectacular mountain backdrop covered with
lush vegetation.
When we asked him, Joseph, with his palm leaf hat
and Rasta tail, attached our stern line to the rock in a
very organized way and was very helpful with informa
tion about the area. He was not at all pushy.
In our eyes this island is a gem, so untouched and
beautiful. I have reservations about writing this letter,
as it would be nice if it stayed this way. However, I
think it is unfair that the island has such a bad repu
station with cruisers. We found the locals super-friend
ly and helpful. There are the normal vendors who
come around selling vegetables and fruit, etcetera, but
if you tell them you have enough they wish you a
happy stay. We enjoyed the experience of catching the
local mini-buses around this island with its spectacu
lar scenery and friendly people.
A super-friendly local we met, Vincent, leases a veg
etable plot on the northern end of the bay and works
hard growing t.1-1 We met him as we walked
along the road. 1I i lers are going to Cumberland
Bay we know he would appreciate any sort of vegetable
seeds, like carrots, lettuce, cabbage, sweet peppers,
etcetera, as he finds them expensive and hard to get
on St. Vincent. Bennet at Beni's restaurant is his
cousin, so the seeds can be left there for him if you are
unable to locate Vincent.
The locals are so proud of their island and answered
the many questions we had about their lifestyle as we
walked in the local villages, one nearby being Spring
'.ii. The children were all neatly dressed in uni
: ..- .- they walked along the roads to school. While
we were there a big school of fish came into the bay
and we saw the excitement as they worked as a com-
munity with a big net, rowboats and lots of people on
shore to haul in the hundreds of fish.
We stayed in Cumberland Bay for four days. It has
everything from great snorkeling with colourful fish
and corals, to hiking in the beautiful countryside and
interesting .ii.. I .. .. little restaurants. There
are plenty I ,"I I ....... ,,I- as the locals play cricket
and soccer under the palm trees on the beach. We
1, ...i. we would have to wait till we were in the
I. .. see such an untouched beautiful island.
St. Vincent is one of our favorite islands in the
Caribbean so far. Saba, Statia, Nevis and Dominica
are also on that list as we head south to Trinidad and
across the Pacific back home to Australia next year.
Last year we enjoyed sailing in Turkey, Greece,
Croatia, Italy, Malta and Tunisia before crossing the
We would like to end this article the same way as
Charles and Caroline! Give St. Vincent a go: you might
fall in love with this island, its spectacular scenery and
its friendly people as we did!
Wendy and Stefan Bjarne
S/V Juliana II

Editor's note: Much has been written, pro and con,
about the leeward coast of St. Vincent. We'd like read
ers to know that in prompt response to the news of an
instance of harassment by a vendor, of persons aboard
a yacht anchored at Wallilabou Bay (the next yacht
anchorage south of Cumberland Bay) on April 6th,
Compass has been informed by St. Vincent & the
Grenadines' Director of Tourism, Ms. Vida Bernard, that
the Ministry of Tourism and the Royal St. Vincent and
the Grenadines Police are acting on information received
about the incident. The Ministry has extended an apol
ogy to the visitors involvedfor the unpleasant encounter
on their shores and pledges to continue to work toward
the development of yachting tourism in St. Vincent & the

Dear Compass,
Being able to now download the Caribbean Compass
on line is wonderful, as here in eastern Panama the
printed copy is unavailable. In the April issue some
discussion occurred as to bilge pump alarms and test
ing the automatic function of the pump. All bilge
pumps must have an alarm wired into them.
Continued on next page

;r Marine
The insurance business has changed.
No longer can brokers talk of low rates.
Rather, the honest broker can only say,
"I'll do my best to minimize your increase"
There is good insurance, there is cheap
insurance, but there is no good cheap
insurance. You never know how good
your insurance is until you have a dalm. )
My claims settlement record
cannot be matched.

I have been connected with the marine insurance
business for 47 years. I have developed a rapport
with brokers and underwriters at Lloyds and am
able to introduce boat owners to specialist brokers
in the Lloyds market.
e-mail: streetiolaire@hotmail.com

Continuedfrom previous page
On Panda, our Morgan 41 O/I, we use small, but
loud alarms obtained from Radio Shack, that cost
three dollars each. I have an alarm in the binnacle, so
we can hear if the pump is going off underway, and
another in our aft cabin, which alerts us if a leak, such
as an overflowing head, develops at night and brings
water into the bilge.
To properly test an automatic bilge pump system the
bilge needs to be flooded. For years I verified float
switch operation, as our bilge is deep and poorly
accessible, by using a fishing gaff to manually lift the
floats and then listen for the pump to come on. Several
years ago we flooded the bilge while replacing the
I-- ;; n tthe stuffing box and to our disappointment
i i bilge pumps failed to come on. Later I
checked the switch with the gaff and it did actuate the
pump. The only way to simulate an alarm situation is
to accurately duplicate the real trigger for that alarm.
Finally, all vessels should be equipped with a high
water alarm. Ours is a good quality float switch locat
ed at the top of both of our electric bilge pumps and is
wired into two, 110 decibel alarms. To kill the alarms,
which is necessary if one is to think properly during a
crisis, there is a switch located i-, i ......
forcing the operator to inspect ii .. I i ..
can be achieved.
Michael Rosner

Dear Compass,
Michelle Fleming is correct in her article in the May
issue of Compass: the south coast of Puerto Rico is
good cruising. In fact, rather than the six days she
spent running along this coast, it can easily provide
three weeks or more of puddle jumping.
But making a mistake on entering Puerto Patillas,
especially if coming from the east, can be disastrous.
My guide to Puerto Rico and the Spanish, US and
British Virgin Islands gives more detailed information
on entering Puerto Patillas than does Van Sants. (In
comparison to the cost of running a boat and feeding
a crew, the cost of a guide is negligible. Buy every
guide available to an area you plan to cruise or tra
verse.) I am interested to note that the entrance is now
buoyed. This information will immediately go into
www.imray.com, where the mariner can find the
updated information for all Imray charts.
Not having my guide on board, Ms. Fleming and her
--Tnion missed what I consider the best
i i i ..... the south coast of Puerto Rico, the La
Parguera area (see Street's Guide pages 30 through 33
and Imray Iolaire chart Al ). This area provides a good
half-dozen or more completely sheltered .'.T-r:-
inside off the village or outside behind on I 1. 11
shore reefs. I was told of this area by the late CCA Blue
Water medal winner, Frank Casper of Elsie II, the
world's most unassuming round-the-world single
handed sailor.
The only chart of this area is Imray Iolaire All. The
La Parguera section of the chart was developed from
an unpublished US Coast and Geodetic (forerunner of
NOAA) survey done in 1933. I discovered this survey
when I was researching chart information in NOAA
head office in DC back in the mid-Eighties.
I also discovered why we had so many surprises
o-pyl-rinf th- --th ogast of Puerto Rico, where I spent
* i i i 1,, .. i 's lower spreaders and got firmly
"parked" between Cayo Real and Vieques (go to www.
street-iolaire.com, click on through to "pilot stories"
and you will find the amusing story). All the charts of
Puerto Rico were done between 1901 and 1911, and
except for major harbors, none of the areas had been
resurveyed nor charts updated!
Don Street
Glandore, Ireland

Dear Compass,
There has been a steady stream of piracy articles in
Compass in recent years, including, lately, ideas for
resisting them.
Nan Hatch's April poem, "Pirates", dreams of giving
pirates what they deserve -hooray! In May's Forum,
Karl on Cochi proposes some methods -good luck.
About a year ago, I started a fictional tale that
begins with an armed pirate attack in which my hero
resists and, .. .... I .11 odds, wins. He was later asked
by a friend, I i.. .... .. I -ling armed
pirates?" "It's got to .. I -' 1. i -I things I've
ever done. Still...."
My hero had used a sailing maneuver to defeat the
pirates, a catastrophic jibe. The trick may or may not
work, but only in a very limited range of circumstance
es, and with a boat with certain similarities to my own
little yacht.
When my hero tells his story, his inventor friend,
Gizmo, replies, "Three armed pirat-= ----. i; body
armor. You wouldn't have had a I ... i .. had
been armed." Gizmo's inventor mind then goes for the
essence. "The secret was surprise. And using force
greater than your own." But both agree that luck
played a major role.
The two then invent some pirate traps, which my
hero characterizes as, "Exciting stuff. Deliberately rig
going a sailboat with lines intended to drag you over

board. Like playing with loaded guns." "Difference
being," Gismo adds, "that flack suits protect against
loaded guns, but not against loops of rope."
Resisting pirates has risks similar to running from
an anchorage that is on the forecast track of a storm.
Either choice could get you hurt. And some boats and
crews are more competent than others. But there are
far more experts in dealing with storms than dealing
with pirates. And among the non-experts on pirates
will be those who are, nonetheless, convinced of their
LU-t --.t- 1 .ti.t- --
... ... ... I is the flare gun. I once fired a
flare into the sea, and decided that if I'd hit a man with
it, it would have bounced off and made him angry. He
wouldn't burst into flame as he does in Hollywood or
the rum shop. Pointing a flare gun at a single, lightly
armed thief might work; it is a convincing show -he
wouldn't know... maybe.
I don't put any credibility on the idea of outmaneuver
ing a powered speedboat with a yacht, other than pos
sibly ramming them at close quarters... or maybe just
bumping them and making them more angry. Some
yachts may be i. ... .1, I ahead in a chase.
It might be i,,I i ., i .1 companies to offer
attractive packages to Special Forces units who want
yachting vacations in areas where piracy is rife.
My advice on piracy is the same as my sailing men
tor's advice on hurricanes. "The best thing is to be
where they ain't."
Nan Hatch's poem wonders if "ego boost" is why
pirates are so abusive to their victims. I think it has
more to do with guilt, which they counter by deciding
that their victims are vile, deserving of the worst.
Here's another quote from my story: "Good luck."
S/Y Ambia

Dear Compass,
In response to Karl on Cochi's letter in the May issue
on how to deal with pirates between Trinidad and
Grenada, I too have now decided on a number of pre
planned actions that I would deploy if sailing between
these two islands:
If at all possible I would travel during the day in
any conditions other than 20 knots of wind and eight
foot waves, to lessen the chance of coming across any
yachts carrying out Karl's procedures on me!
If I travel at night I would pay close attention to
other craft, paying particular attention to craft that
suddenly turn east if I am in their vicinity. If I find one
maneuvering in such a way, I will immediately go in
completely the opposite direction!
I would keep my radio tuned to North Coast Radio
to ensure that I know if I am being considered a threat
by other sailing vessels.
I would avoid going anywhere near the stern of any
other yacht by approximately 200 feet for fear of
entanglement in a line that is being trolled.
I would at all times be looking out for craft in gen
eral that are in distress due to having lost their out
boards, or are submerged or on fire, or whose crew are
swimming helpless in the water after having had their
boat mysteriously sunk.
If you think that these measures are too much for
most of you please re-read Karl's letter and truly con
sider the merit of his actions, keeping in mind that
boats that have been dealt with using these methods
may well not be pirates. How does Karl know they are?
I am not sure where the real danger lies here: with
us or them!
Scot Hermiston and family
Sea Warrior

Dear Compass,
Just a short note in answer to the letter from Yousaf
Butt of S/VBibi Gul (May issue of the Compass) regard
ing the security situation in Portsmouth, Dominica,
having improved from what it was five years ago.
Last year my husband and I were beaten up and
robbed of everything in Portsmouth by three men, armed
with machetes and a gun, who swam out to our boat at
night while we were anchored off the Customs dock.
I have been told by a number of people in Dominica
that this was entirely our own fault, as we were not
anchored in the patrolled area. The music was too
loud for our liking outside Big Papa's restaurant and
we had no idea at the time how very dangerous Prince
Rupert Bay is.
The other couple who were also boarded, robbed and
beaten up by the same men just seven weeks later were
also at fault, having anchored outside the patrolled
area, not as far away as us, though -they were near
the Indian River when they were violently attacked.
I imagine that Yousaf Butt may not have been told
about these attacks that took place so recently, or
perhaps he has heard a different version of events.
My point is, however noisy and crowded the patrolled
area is, do not take chances in anchoring anywhere
else in the bay -it is not safe.
I am informed by the Dominican Police that one of
the three attackers from last year remains free on
bail. Also there have been other boardings and par
ticularly violent attacks on yachts in Prince Rupert
Bay in the past.
Continued on next page


with luxurious interior

Current flagship of salvage company.
Twin screw working vessel,
12v71 Detroits 4.5:1 reductions,
fully rendered, 3 generators, full electronics.
Incredible interior, cork floors,
granite countertops, all stainless
appliances, whirlpool tub, hot tub.
Priced to sell $475,000 Located BVI

Continuedfrom previous page
For up-to-date, comprehensive, non-biased facts and
statistics relating to crime throughout the anchorages of
the Caribbean, including Portsmouth, Dominica, I advise
readers to refer to the Caribbean Safety & Security Net,
www.safetyandsecuritynet. com/reports.html.
Name Withheld by Request

Dear Compass,
In his "Tides Table" food column in May's Compass,
Ross Mavis wrote an interesting piece on dark choco
late, in which he elaborated some of the health bene
fits of this product. He also recommended Xocai
Healthy Chocolate, no doubt a worthy chocolate pro
ducer from Nevada.
I feel that in recommending an American chocolate,
Ross must not know that some of the finest chocolate
in the world is produced right here in the Caribbean at
the Grenada Chocolate Company. Their main ingredi
ent is organic cocoa beans grown at Belmont Estate
just a mile down the road from their factory.
In 2005 the Grenada Chocolate Company won the
bronze medal from the Academy of Chocolate, and in
2008 they won the Silver Medal for organic chocolate,
which they shared with another company (no gold
medal was awarded for organic chocolate that year).
These are extraordinary achievements for a tiny
Grenadian company.
Consumers ha 1. i .. 1 I i ...... that Grenada
chocolate is prc i i i. ... .11 grown cocoa
and the people i i 1. ... ,. oa to the fin
ished product are shareholders in the company, which
is way cooler even than Fair Trade. Mott, the man
behind the product, also tries to be environmentally
friendly. F- -;;-r.t-" good -r--;t1.- -f th- -1c-
tricity for I. I ...I. ... a big ... i .. ...
Moreover, the Grenada cocoa is of a particularly fine
flavor because it is mainly of the Trinitarios variety.
(You can read all about the beans at http://www.gre
It is the cocoa that is good for you, so a chocolate
high in cocoa content is better than one with more
sugar. I may not have tried hard enough, but I could
not actually find on the Xocai site wh-t th- i-r--;nt-
of cocoa the chocolate was. Grenada I i I .i i, ,
a long time produced a 71 percent bar, which is in the
high cocoa content category, as well as a 63-percent
bar for those who prefer something sweeter. I am look
ing forward to trying their 82-percent cocoa bar, and
the new 60-percent bar that comes with bits of roasted
cocoa bean.
Much of the processing at Grenada Chocolate
Factory is done with antique or custom-made machine
ery, and it is very much a "hands-on" product -even
to the point that Mott now delivers his bars of choco
late to Carriacou by sailing them up from Sauteurs on
a 14-foot beach cat that would not normally go out of
protected waters.
So if chocolate is your thing, and you have not yet
tasted Caribbean Grenada Chocolate, now would be a
good time to start.
With regard to news of increased yacht fees in Grenada
(as announced in the June issue of Compass), as a
cruiser I am quite okay with Grenada entry fees now
being charged by the month, rather than only on arrival.
As I sail through the islands and explore ashore, I
get to use island infrastructure, including roads; I
meet with a reasonable social order contributed to by
a police force, an educational system and more. I get
to pretty much anchor where I want among myriad
delightful anchorages, none of which belong to me; I
get to snorkel on reefs that also "-l-;- t the islands.
I think EC$75 a month (less thai. I : 'J is a bargain
for this, especially when there are two people on board,
at which point it comes to a little less than 50 US cents
a day each.
Each island charges differently. Some charge by the
boat's length, some by the ton and some by how many
people there are on board. The latter is probably the
most appropriate in terms of the load on the island's
infrastructure. The Eastern Caribbean countries have
now harmonized many rules and regulations so they
are the same throughout the region; I could see bene
fits to both the yachting community and governments
if these governments were to get together and come up
with yachting charges that were the same wherever
you are, though it is of course entirely up to each
nation to decide what it wants to do.
If boats do leave Grenada because of the increase in
fees, the effect on the economy will be negative, as the
monthly charges are minimal compared with what a
yachtsperson will spend while on the island. However,
my personal feeling is that these rates are not exces
sive, and I would be very surprised if they caused an
exodus of cruisers.
There are a couple of things the Grenada Government
could do that would encourage yachtspeople to visit
and stay in their waters. Normally people on yachts
are checked in for three months, after which they have
to go to the Immigration office at the Botanical
Gardens to get an extension, which is nearly always
granted. If the monthly extensions, up to five or six
months (the time most people hang out for the hurri
cane season), could be dispensed by the Immigration
officers at any port of entry, it would make it much

easier for cruisers, as sometimes the Botanical Gardens
visits involve a lot of waiting.
Also, if Grenada were to adopt the two-week in-and
out clearance, like Dominica, or even the three-day
one like St. Lucia, it would encourage many more
yachts sailing in the St. Vincent Grenadines to come
and visit Grenada. I think these moves would be
warmly welcomed by the cruising community.
Chris Doyle
Ti Kanot

Dear Compass,
Could this be the same Trinidad described by Ruth
Lund in her article "Trini Home from Home" in the
June Compass?
Approaching the Boca de Monos against the ebbing
tide, in order to avoid the punitive Customs overtime
charges awaiting the unprepared, the first thing that
struck us was the oily, : i -.... 1,,..i i Izing out of
the Gulf of Paria. Mix i .II11. I 1 .... of plastic
bottles and polystyrene food containers were the dead
fish and other detritus of undisciplined civilization. "I
never see *, i1,,.. in my life like this," was the com-
ment from ... .1 who is Brazilian, and believe me,
coming from a Brazilian that is saying ... 11,,.
Dodging the more obvious islands I ,,,I I ,.-1 we
motored slowly past the tranquil Scotland Bay into the
busy commercial port of Chaguaramas. My first
thought was how few yachts there were in the anchor-
age compared to my last ...1. ... 2000, during
my first circumnavigation .. 11. I -1 of masts on
shore was much less than I remembered. (The Bay, a
local publication put out by the Yacht Services
Association of Trinidad & Tobago, reported that yacht
numbers were down 36 percent in January and 22
percent in February. They, however, incorrectly in my
opinion, put this fall down to recent piracy incidents
off their coast.) My second thought was how many
commercial vessels now cluttered the harbour. Drilling
rigs, tenders and tugs filled the bay and lined the
shore while fast pirogues weaved through the anchored
yachts with no 1. ,, .1, of safety or wake courtesy.
I was pleased I 1... I another yacht at the Customs
dock as : .1,,I. up was far preferable t- -i;n; against
the piles I I, "yacht unfriendly" I I .,, I being
battered by the wake of the passing fishing boats. As
I looked about at the half-empty marinas the word
that came to mind was "tired" the place looked
"tired". Paint was fading, signs were old and unread
able and large fishing boats now occupied the former
berths of mega-yachts.
It is Sunday and the piercing hiss of the sandblast
ing from the dry dock blocks out the 24-hour drone of
Phi-r' -;~-r7t-r7 reversing trucks and the continual
:, .- i i... nd unloading ships. The oil industry
does not rest. The howler monkeys don't stand a
chance. Give me cruise ships any day.
The cross wake generated by myriad speeding plea
sure and work boats has turned the anchorage into a
roiling mass and we are now heading to shore to let
our heads and stomachs find some equilibrium. For
years the people affected have tried to get the local
authorities to implement a No Wake Zone, but to no
avail. At one stage someone even put up some signs,
but the signs were reportedly stolen.
In the month we have been here one yacht has been
boarded and robbed in the -h-r .- losing its din
ghy and motor (which was i.Ii I .1 II time), and a
generator he had on deck. Another yacht was boarded
at night in one of the "secure" boat yards. Luckily the
owner was aboard. How many people will return to
find their boats ransacked?
The smell of diesel from the regular fuel spills per
vades the air and there have been at least four incidents
of yachts breaking or dragging the too-closely-spaced
commercial moorings, which we are told are serviced
every three months. In one incident my boat was dam
aged but I doubt compensation will be forthcoming.
As I write, a report has just come over the radio
advising that a dinghy with children on board was hit
by a pirogue. It is only time before someone is killed.
Reports to the Coast Guard do not even receive a
reply on the VHF and many people now will not even
bother reporting incidents, as they know nothing will
be done.
Maybe Ruth is protected by her age, but my wife and
other women I have spoken to are constantly the vic
times of verbal harassment (the Caribbean version of a
"wolf whistle") and are loath to go anywhere alone,
even in the boatyard where we are paying guests. Few
yachties will venture into town unless it is to one of the
modem shopping malls or as part of an organized
group with their own transport. I have been warned by
the locals that past, safe, entertainment haunts are
now "no go" areas.
Unfortunately I am forced 1.. ...i. .. .... stances to
be here. I need competent:,, i, .1 1 ,i,, not avail
able on nearby islands, and daily access to the inter
net, otherwise I would be somewhere else, and, on a
positive note, it is still probably the best place to pro
cure yacht parts. AND most of the people really are, as
Ruth describes, friendly and helpful.
The hurricane season is upon us and there is still
plenty of space in the boatyards and marinas. It is
easy to get things done as most contractors are looking

for work and the staff outnumber the customers in the
chandleries. The economic downturn and competition
from other areas is being felt here in a big way. Not
quite the bustling, culturally diverse, paradise desti
nation that Ruth portrayed in last month's Compass.
Note: The Facebook group site "Trinidad for Cruising
Sailors" established by the Chaguaramas Business
Community may be of interest to those wishing to
find out more about the area. Discussions include the
latest on piracy, progress in the "no wake" campaign
and FAQs.
Ron Llewellyn
Boat Name Withheld by Request

Editor's note: In light of the issues raised by Ron, we
passed his letter on to the Yacht Services Association of
Trinidad & Tobago for their response, which follows.

Dear Compass,
Thanky, ,, i i.,,. .ii. i I I [tsforaresponse.
ii, .., ii ,,i ..11 1 -in .. Trinidad is not
i i ., I of course is open to legitimate criticism, I
have to admit to several exclamations of "What??" as I
read, incredulously, through the writer's plethora of
exaggerations, blatant inaccuracies and half-truths.
I have occasionally read similar grievance letters in
the Caribbean yachting press in which the writer
attempts to pour scorn upon a particular island for
whatever reason, but more often than not, in my own
travels to the same island my experiences had been
markedly different from the aggrieved writer and my
opinion was invariably more favourable. Perhaps it's
because when I visit other islands my approach is
cordial, I maintain a friendly disposition and I keep an
open mind to the customs and the character of the
island. I enjoy the good and avoid the not-so-good.
I hope the writer's medical problems are sorted out
in the shortest possible time.
Donald Stollmeyer
For and on behalf of YSATT

Hi Compass,
Re: the item "Changes to Cruising Permits in
Grenada" in the June issue's Info & Updates:
A .nin and again, and again, officials raise yacht
,,i I and in the coming years will lower them
-;;;n ft-r =--ing that everybody has left. We cruisers
i i ....-i. .1 not respected: just a source of easy
money, and not humans.... They multiply the fee by
4.5, so for a 42-foot yacht staying three months, that
is now EC$225 instead of EC$50. Bravo!
Why not make money on work and services, and not
on racketing visitors?
Do not answer, "This is in line with St. Vincent".
Fees are cheaper in St. Lucia and Dominica, and there
are no yacht fees in the French islands.
Name Withheld by Request

Dear Compass,
There have been a number of articles and letters
recently --;--r; n; lit-racy efforts in the schools of
our islan i- i, I I. who bring books to the chil
dren and the schools are to be commended for their
efforts, any suggestion that such activity alone is sig
nificantly improving literacy is naive at best.
When staff, space and time become constrained, the
library programs are among the first to be abandoned.
Even when the programs are active, it is only those
children who already appreciate books and know how
to read that are making use of these resources. The 30
to 40 percent of the children who, according to exami
nation scores, are below their grade level in their aca
demic subjects are not drawn in to these programs.
Vigorous adult intervention is necessary to reach
these children: innovative methods of teaching reading
skills, early and creative testing mechanisms to iden
tify those children at risk, remedial classes with small
groups, and one-on-one tutoring sessions. Such pro
grams have already shown positive results.
What's more, programs like the Bequia i.
Club, the Mt. Airy Young Readers in Grenada, -
in Dominica, and myriad individual opportunities pro
vide ways for cruisers and retired folks living on land
to become involved in this very important goal: raising
the level of literacy among the children and young
people of these islands. A couple of hours a week will
give the volunteer great satisfaction as well as provide
much-needed support for thes- 1i
It's rather like the man and i -. i ,, 11,,,,i
Give a man a fish and he'll 1. ..- 1.... to eat that
day. Teacha mantofish I 1i 11 i .1 I ) eat for the
rest of his life.
Seek out these opportunities and watch the smiles!
Sign me,
Been there, done that, know better -
Melodye Pompa

Dear Compass Readers and fellow cruisers with dogs,
Irie and crew are on the move again, heading south
after a four-month "boat project and business-related
stay" in St. Martin, and that means more dog (mis)
adventures! This time, we decided to try and visit Statia,
St. Kitts & Nevis, and Montserrat with our dog, Darwin.
Three different nations and three different experiences.
Continued on next page

continued from previous page
Checking into Statia was efficient and hassle-free, no
questions asked about the dog. He could get ashore
without problems, but we were told via e-mail corre
spondence that it's always good to have "the dog's
documentation on hand just in case you are asked".
Its a delightful island to visit, as long as you minimize
spending time on your boat in the uncomfortable
anchorage, where you roll "forever".
St. Kitts & Nevis was another story... With the help
of the Tourism Bureau, I acquired the e-mail address
of Dr. Lesroy Henry in January (you can't start early
enough with the process) and he confirmed his address
by .-1--lin -. t--- sentence e-mail back, requesting "an
e ... .. I, i i titre and health certificate for the pet"
and wanting "an idea of the date and time of your
ship's arrival". From the moment we anticipated a visit
to St. Kitts & Nevis, I tried to communicate with Dr.
Henry for over two months without ever receiving an
answer. I had questions about the pet importation
procedure and fee. I wrote a few follow-ups and then I
sent all Darwin's health records with an approximate
arrival date. No response. I tried to get the Tourism
Bureau involved again, but to no avail. We hoped for
the best on our way to St. Kitts.
A few minutes after our arrival in Port Zante Marina
(another hard one to communicate with r .. 1 I .. 11
VHF radio; we never managed to obtain .i ...i ....
tion and assumed it was 50 cents US a foot, based on
friends' reports), Mark went to the Immigration and
Customs office, stating he had a dog and asking what
the procedure was. He wanted to make sure the dog
was allowed onshore before checking in and paying all
the fees, because that would influence whether we
would stay or move on. Immigration didn't know any
thing about dogs, but checked us in regardless and
sent my husband to Customs. The Customs officer
didn't know the dog importation procedure, but was
helpful enough to call the two Government Vets. Dr.
Challenger had a busy schedule and couldn't inspect
our dog until thb f'llh""in. morning; Dr. Lesroy Henry
didn't pick up .II. I .- two phones or had them
turned off. Mark had to pay the Customs and port
fees, while no progress was made with the dog issue.
How is it possible that nobody knows what to do in
this situation and that we can't get our dog checked
in? Surely, we aren't the first cruisers visiting some of
these Eastern Caribbean with a dog? Or are we?
Then, Mark found the Tourism Bureau, where an
employee had to borrow a phone (their phone lines
couldn't call outside of the building) to call the two vets
again, with the same result. The owner of the phone
asked Mark for money for the phone call... What a
welcome to St. Kitts! We didn't know what to do next.
Was there no procedure in place to allow or -- 1 1 -
upon entry? Darwin had to go to "the .....
onshore and we were told he couldn't leave the boat
until a vet inspected him, which couldn't happen until
20 hours later. Having the required documentation,
vaccinations, paperwork, microchip and current health
certificate wasn't enough to allow our dog off the boat,
but no alternative was given. Nobody mentions a vet
inspection in any: ...i. .... ny correspondence
and we were out o I i ...- i. we found out Port
Zante Marina charges US$1.20 a foot for catamarans
(more than twice the amount of the monohull fee, even
though we use the same alongside dock space), the
decision was made and we left the area.
Inefficiency and lack of communication makes it
hard for a cruising pet owner to do the right thing in
order to visit a country and St. Kitts & Nevis is by far
best example of this.
Montserrat, on the other hand, is proof of how it can
be done efficiently, painlessly, and in a timely manner.
I started to inquire well ahead, got some answers and
contacted the Government Vet again close to our
arrival date. Via e-mail, Dr. Waldron let me know we
needed to e-mail the dog's health records along with a
list of all ports visited within the last six weeks imme-
diately prior to docking at Montserrat. They wanted to
know our approximate date and time of arrival and the
dog needed to be treated for external and internal
parasites, something we do monthly regardless. Upon
arrival a vet would inspect the animal and make a
decision on its entry. A current health certificate, ide
ally from the country previously visited, is also
required. Dr. Waldron and Dr. Maloney were prompt
and courteous with their responses.
When Mark checked into Montserrat, the Customs
officer called Government Vet Dr. Maloney, who showed
"i ... I i ..- ...... i him a "go ahead" free of
i., I I .i. ., id efficient and all three
i i Ii .... like this make uswant
to come back to a country and encourage other cruis
ers, with or without pets, to do the same.
Any comments and experiences from other cruising
dog owners in the Eastern and Western Caribbean are
very welcome at crew@itsirie.com. In the meantime, I
can't wait to see what challenges lay ahead.
Liesbet Colleart
S/Y Irie

Dear Compass,
We arrived in Bequia in early May from Soufriere,
St. Lucia, after an interesting and exhilarating

50-nautical-mile trip. We anchored so far out that
people thought that we must have yellow fever or BO.
We started off the first 30 nautical miles over open
water between St. Lucia and St. Vincent with reefed
main and staysail only, as we were expecting strong
winds. However, the winds were i i, i 1
out the reefs and deployed the ,, ,,I, ... I
we encountered four rain-and-wind squalls and we
had to reduce the canvas each time. While trying to
reduce sail in the last strongest squall by furling the
genny, the two genny sheets got tangled into a knot
that we could not i...t ....i .1 11. time. The knot how
ever did not stop i.- i. ... i .. .... the genny. However
we had to use a winch to do it for the first time ever.
Just as we got behind St. Vincent, we were sur
rounded by a group of between two and three dozen
porpoises feeding around our boat.
As the wind was steady the captain switched off Fred
(the engine). Shortly thereafter the first mate noticed a
strong chemical/electrical smell coming up the com-
panionway. The captain opened up the engine com-
partment and a cloud of acrid fumes came out. He
could not see where the fumes were coming from and
could not see anything unusual except that the starter
was hot. He : 1. i i1. ..... i transmission
oil and wat i i i .... i .11 1 i kay. He also
checked the belts and found that they were okay.
When the winds did die in the lee of the island the
-n- would not start.
I seeing the dolphins and losing the engine we
had only -n--.--1. t- sail about ten nautical miles in
more thar. i. ... an average of about two knots.
Sometimes the wind blew, especially in a squall, and
at other times it was dead calm. We discussed the
alternatives if we could not reach Bequia, which
seemed very likely. We even put in the route so that we
could carry on all night and go on to Carriacou.
Between Wallilabou and Layou we were becalmed for
at least an hour. We still had about another 15 nauti
cal miles to go, and if we could average two knots we
would not arrive in Bequia until almost midnight
and only then if we had a favourable wind angle to get
into the anchorage there.
Then a saviour arrived. A 38-foot Bavaria, Harmony,
a French boat, stopped by and the first mate, who spoke
English, asked if we would like a tow to the wind. We
said yes and we threw them a line and they attached a
further line to it and the tow started. They towed us at
about two-and-a-half knots for almost an hour until we
reached the winds coming out of the Bequia Channel.
Then they untied the towline and threw us both our
own and their lines, and they motored on.
We hoisted all of our sails and because of the favour
able wind angle across the passage we made good
time. However, just before reaching the Devil's Table at
the entrance to Admiralty Bay, we were again hit by a
squall, the fifth or sixth of the day. Again we had winds
that reached 23 knots and we had too much canvas
up. However we survived by spilling wind and fortu
nately gaining lots of easing.
We reached the Devil's Table just as the sun was
setting. We quickly reefed the genny, tightened up the
main and the staysail, turned into Admiralty Bay and
turned to port towards the Princess Margaret anchor
age. By sailing very close to the wind we hoped to
make the outer part of the anchorage. The first mate
started to get the anchor ready but found that it was
stuck. The captain had to go below and free the chain
and we eventually were able to drop the anchor in the
outer anchorage near a large freighter.
Trying to make a coffee after this exciting day, the
first mate found that the stove i i. i i .. ii .
out after two or three seconds. 1 ,1 1 i
sundowners instead.
This evening we are sitting peacefully in the cockpit
watching the new moon ride above Venus on our port
quarter, thinking how lucky we were to have the
French couple, Nelly and Francois from Harmony, help
us in our time of need.
Another few days in paradise.
Mal and Joan Tanton
S/V Mal de Mer
PS. We had Mr. Fixman get a new starter by ferry
from Kingstown: he installed it the following day. He
also solved the stove problem: he installed a new
starter switch and solenoid a couple of days later.

Dear Compass Readers,
We want to hear from YOU!
Please include your name, boat name or shoreside
address, and a way we can contact you (preferably by
e-mail) if clarification is required.
We do not publish individual consumer complaints or
individual regatta results complaints. (Kudos are okay!)
We do not publish anonymous letters; however, your
name may be withheld from print at your request.
Letters may be edited for length, clarity and fair play.
Send your letters to:
Compass Publishing Ltd.
Readers' Forum
Box 175BQ
Bequia VC0400
St. Vincent & the Grenadines


Sea Ray 340, 2005, 250 engine hrs,
twin 8.1s Mercruiser Engines.
Fully Equipped,
Colour Raymarine chartplotter,
Radar, Liferaft, A/C, Stereo.

Located in Rodney Bay St. Lucia
Contact us for more pictures
Tel. owner (Tony) 0044 7740201135
Tel. owner 0044 1622737262
Tel. skipper (Nico) +1 (758) 716 3956
Email tony@hospitallane.com

Price to sell: US$125,000

Pat Rpar .evc
Oultboa r~dITQQ l Engne 2HP-2E50H l

LA C H T S])


,\ JK VHF Ch 16 & 68
(range limited by the hills) BAR AND RESTAURANT
P.O. Box 851, St. Vincent & the Grenadines, CREDIT CARDS ACCEPTED
West Indies.
Tel: (784) 458-7270 Fax: (784) 457-9917 HAPPY HOUR 5-6
E-mail: wallanch@vincysurf.com

Semail: crew@tradewindscruiseclub.com
TradeWinds Cruise Club operate a fleet of catamarans across
TWEWIND six destinations in the Caribbean.
We are the fastest growing charter company,
operating TERM CHARTERS, all inclusive, 7 days.
We are looking for crew, mainly teams in the form of a Captain and a Chef/Hostess.
We prefer couples that are married OR have been living togetherfor at least a year.
The nature of the job is such that the better the understanding and teamwork
between Captain and Chef the more successful your charters will be.
Requirements: Captain with a Skipper's licence.
Chef/Hostess with a basic understanding of cooking.
Dive master/ instructor for either the Captain and/or Chef is a plus.
We offer full training onsite in the Caribbean.
This is a FUN job with great earning potential. If you are willing to work hard and
have a positive disposition to life this could be your DREAM job.
Anyone with an interest is welcome to apply.
If you would like more information about this job or send your CV to us, please
use this email address:
or by mail to: Bequia Marina, P.O.Box 194BQ, Port Elizabeth,
Bequia, St Vincent & the Grenadines
Tel. St Vincent +784 457 3407 Tel. St Maarten +599 5510550


Sex and the

Single Sailor

by Merab-Michal Favorite
Long gone (if they ever existed) are the days when absence made the heart grow
fonder. These days, it's more like out of sight, out of mind. A friend of mine offered
some advice: he said to "never leave an attractive significant other home alone."
While most land-lovers c ... I .11. .1 still poses a problem for sailors since
wee. ..I r.,.1,1 ...1 f.. I. ..... I tour lives. We've all heard of and seen
the -.. .. i who work on boats together, but what about those of
us who are still ....1i Does being married to the sea increase your risk of never
getting married .1
Maybe it's better that way. Maybe some people are destined to be single. I was
talking to a sailing friend who said that he was interested in a girl and that she felt
the same way about him. But now and then, she would disappear for days at a time
and then come "home" to him and beg that he take her back. It seems she would go
off on another boat, chasing another sailor -and it had happened more than once.
I said, "I don't know... she seems to me like kind of a slut." He just laughed and
said, "That': ..-t 1 '-i. ,lut, that's just being a sailor." At first, his response jarred
me. How ,,i i i, I and :' I i..... ) serious? But the more I thought
about it, the more it made sens 1 for one place, can we really settle
for one person?

If we can't settle for one place,

can we really settle

for one person?

The problem for single sailors is that a developing relationship is always dependent
cn- b 1-;-;- -tay in one place. Then, once we leave, we're never really sure how
1 ... ., i .11 i ,, i i we see that person again, if ever. Is this series of one to five-night
stands (depending on how long you're in port) really fulfilling? When two people are
little more than strangers it is really hard to say. Then again, the most compelling
love stories are the ones that are short lived, maybe because they aren't carried out
to fruition (just a drawn-out version of love at first sight).
Isn't that the life we live -one that is meant to be experienced but not settled
upon, where we see the best of a place because we don't deal with the monotony of
the "normal everyday life" there? Of course there is another side to that story
because when you get to know a place intimately, wholly, you see things that you
hadn't seen before, that you wouldn't know unless you had explored it more than
once. Is that what we're missing in a lover?
Of course many of us have that one person back home that we know very well, the
one person who loves us because of our exotic personalities and explorations. One
who waits for us to come home and is usually happy to see us, even though we can't
start up exactly where we left off (any sailor knows that it's never the same when you
go back). We ... ..... 11 I i... .. .. that "getting to know each other again" stage
and carry on .11. ...i i i I relationship that we had before. And just when
the connection is in its comfort zone, where we are settled back in with our boy
friend/girlfriend, the season changes and it's time to go to sea again. They are hurt
because we are leaving and we know that we won't be happy unless we go. Phone
calls and e-mails eventually become less frequent and then we are inadvertently
back to being single sailors again. We know that they probably found someone else
and they know we are back down here experiencing other cultures and other people.
We could of course bring them with us, but not everyone can jump ship from world
ly responsibilities. Most are slaves to their mortgages, car payments and nine-to-five
job benefits.
None of us really knows the solution. That is the biggest problem. One day that
special sailor may hitch a ride on the same yacht as us, travel the same route and
love the same lifestyle. Until then, the .i1 i..... ... do is do what we do best:
take a chance, live a dream and hope tl i i .. -... .. who's on the same wave
length -literally.

Read in Next Month's Compass:

Dominica Delights

Cruisers' Night Out in Trinidad

How NOT to Leave the Caribbean

... and more!

Cal Ro Cope (2 7-36-5)04ww. copemaineca


After nearly 12 years of living aboard a yacht, mostly
spent at anchor, I have come to expect the question:
"Why don't you move ashore?" or the more directly
expressed, "How can you bear to live on board?"
The answers to these questions are never simple,
and vary greatly from one cruiser to the next, but after
some thought, here are a few of the many reasons I
chose, and continue, to live on a boat.
For many landlubbers, the i ..i. 1 of living on a
rocking boat is horrible, but .11 many years of
bouncing bunks, we genuinely find it difficult to sleep
on a bed that is totally still. My husband, Niels, and I
love being rocked to sleep. There are times when being
thrown up and down is a nuisance, such as when try
ing to locate a bolt under the engine while hanging by
your toes with your head in the bilge, but generally,
after so many years, we hardly notice the movement.
Now rolling from side to side is another issue alto
gether, but one soon learns a few tricks to keep from
falling off the bed. There is the spread eagle position
(not realistic when two share the bunk) or you can
jam yourself in with cushions all round (rather hot);
there is the knock-yourself-out-with-alcohol method
(not foolproof because you may find yourself uncon
sciously levitating and landing on the floor), and the
last one -which -nllinl-v works: do it enough and
you get used to it. ,I ... -e adjustment takes a little
longer when pounding to windward, with gravity pull
ing you sideways as you crab your way across the

deck or up or down the companionway, but event
ally your body, like the smart computer it is, antici
pates movement better and better. Just take some
tips from the lilting, lurching Sailor's Dance at
Trinidad's traditional Carnival.


powered by two 250 HP Suzuki outboards
based in Port St. Charles Barbados.
Professionally maintained from new.
Very clean, in excellent condition all systems working.

ASKING US$125,000
Contact Bizzy Williams Tel: 246-262-2000
or email: bizzy@williamsind.com.bb

-__ S .*f


to Livc


by Ruth Lund

The second reason folk give for finding our choice of
habitat crazy is the lack of space aboard a boat. We
started with a 37-foot boat, and then moved on to a
43-foot boat, which did make a difference. We no lon
ger "bump bums" as we try to move around the saloon
or fit ourselves into a narrow bunk like two pieces of
a puzzle.

When selecting our first yacht, we had two basic
criteria that ruled out many options. Niels, 6' 4" tall,
lay down on all the bunks to see if they were long
enough (seven feet was a minimum) and stood up in all
the cabins to test the headroom, while I sat on all the


*,- -


'4 ,1',,

i ,
,. ;,

toilet seats to make sure they were wide enough for my
broad beam. It is often the way space is allocated on a
yacht that gives one a good or bad feeling. Some size
able modern yachts, which are jam-packed with cup
boards and lockers from floor to ceiling make me feel
claustrophobically closed in, while our less storage
efficient, old-fashioned layout and large foredeck gives
more breathing space, both literally and figuratively.
However, even when we were on a smaller boat, our
backyard was bigger than anything I ever enjoyed on
land. Sitting on deck, our view stretches to infinity. No
S 1 1 .. ii i. 1.... i 1 ., I close us in. This is what
I I I .' i i .... le day. If location is all,
we are sitting on the best real estate in the world.
When recently asked, "What happens when the two of
you have a bad fight and you ..'1 I r from each
other?" Niels diplomatically: I I don't have
really bad fights", but the truth is, we actu .11 .1 .1
better on board than we did living ashore. -. I' i ,
tors are far fewer. There are no cl ... i,, i i
if there are irritating neighbour' ...1 111',
anchor and move elsewhere. Because we both love to
sail, w e i 1 i .... 1 .11 1. ......
ingano i ,,l I ..... i i i
for all cruising couples, who sometimes find that not
being able to escape from their spouse, or seek their
usual friends and family support systems, causes prob
lems. For us, being together so much has brought us
closer and made us more in tune with each other.
"Don't you miss having access to all the mod cons
-large house, fancy car, big TV, washing machine and
drier, spacious deepfreeze, water and electricity on tap,
etcetera?" Our answer to this is -not really. When we
packed up our house and got rid of all our furniture and
other possessions, I felt an amazing sense of relief. So
much of what we had was unnecessary, but still needed
to be cleaned, cared for, stored and insured. On the boat
we live very simply, with far fewer clothes, complicated
gadgets and "stuff'. Besides anything else, there is just
not the space to collect extraneous items. One cruiser
,i 1.. i .i... i1,,, i.1. i i 11 .. 1 1 .- a year, they
Ih I II Ii I .I I I I ,,I I giving without
waste. We get a kick out of generating our own power
via wind and sun, collecting our own water, fixing and
maintaining our own boat, making our own entertain
ment and selecting our own waypoints without depend
ing on other people, organizations or systems.
On watch at night, alone with my thoughts and
myriad stars, a phosphorescent wake marking our
slow but steady passage, I feel comfortable knowing I
can depend utterly on my partner, asleep down below.
Making landfall after a stormy, exhausting passage
gives me a special sense of achievement, having met
once again the physical and mental challenge of the
sea. When I curl up in the cockpit with a book and a
companionable cat, the sound of fish jumping and
birds calling all around me, fresh sea air and warm
sun caressing me, I am conscious of enjoying some of
the very best days of my life. Best of all, while we live
aboard, our dreams of exciting adventures and unusu
al destinations can be realized by merely lifting the
anchor, setting the sails and plotting a new course.

Home sweet home. When you're a
cruiser, you can take it with you

--CI~ -I- -! IJFP~--.- -- d
t- S~_J- -

Ahoy, Compass Readers! When in Curacao, pick up your free monthly copy of
the Caribbean Compass at any of these locations (advertisers in this issue
appear in bold):

T-- I-
Budget Marine Curacao
Budget Marine Curacao
Curacao Marine Service
Asiento Yacht Club
Curacao Yacht Club
Kimakalki Marina

Unfortunately "Primrose" whilst being readied for launching, was dropped onto
the forefoot of the bow and has suffered damage to the forward bow area
below the waterline. The mainmast also broke at the spreaders causing rigging
and mainsail damage due to the Hood in-mast furling system.
This is a fantastic opportunity to lovingly restore this fine M
vessel, for either personal use or resale. We invite interested
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an appointment, please call Mr. George Robinson at: 1 (473) MU.INd
4401193 or 1 (473) 407 5369...


Mum11HULL a2 FAearon 424 78. Grear Value 39K
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43 Jeafneau 43DS 2002; Great Crsr. 149K 36'CYM 1981. Spacious Trawler 29K
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42 Albin Nimbus'Oi Cutter 75K 26'Glacier Bay 2680 ; (2) Yamaha 150HP 69K
42Island Packet420,10 Immaculate 289K www.bviyachtsales. co m

Compass Point Marina, 6300 Est. Frydenhoj, Suite 28,
St. Thomas, U.S.V.I. 00802

Tel: (340) 779-1660
Fax: (340) 779-2779

42' 1971 Grand Banks 46' 20
CG Cert. 42 passengers Twin h
Excellent condition $99,000 Great C
34' 1983Hunter Freshwater boat, well equipped
40' 2001Jeanneau Sun Odyssey, 3 strms, great condition
44' 1977 CSY Excellent cruiser, great condition
60' 1982Nautical Ktch 4 staterooms, great charter vessel


30' 2002 Hydrocat 300X Exp. CC Obv. Twr, Diesel Ymrs 230 HP, exc. cond. 69,000.00
32' 2003 Sea Ray 350HP Mercruisers 95,000.00
34' 1989 Sea Ray Express Twin Diesels, 465 hrs. Genset, A/C 55,000.00
48' 1999 Dyna Craft MY Cruiser with, 435HP, 2 Strms, A/C, Low Hrs. 299,500.00

Call, fax or visit our website for a complete list of boats for sale


1 VC Bird Day; public holiday in Antigua & Barbuda
2-3 19th Annual Firecracker 500 Race, BVI. West End Yacht Club (WEYC),
Tortola, BVI, tel (284) 496-8685, mvh@surfbvi.com, www.weyc.net
4 Independence Day (USA). Public holiday in Puerto Rico and USVI.
Carnival in St. John, USVI
4 Banks Regatta, Barbados. www.sailbarbados.com
5 6 St. Vincent Carnival. http://discoversvg.com
9- 11 Chief Minister's Cup Youth Regatta, Tortola.
Royal British Virgin Islands Yacht Club (RBVIYC),
(284) 494-3286, rbviyc@rbviyc.com, www.rbviyc.net
11 27th Harris Paints Regatta, Barbados. www.sailbarbados.com
14 Bastille Day. Public holiday in French West Indies
16 1 Aug Tobago Heritage Festival. www.tntisland.com/tobagoheritage.html
18 Lucky Horseshoe Regatta, Barbados. www.sailbarbados.com
20- 21 St. Lucia Carnival. www.stlucia.org
25 2 Aug Carriacou Regatta Festival. www.carriacouregatta.com.
See ad on page 14
28 Carriacou Children's Education Fund Welcome Barbecue.
31 Carriacou Children's Education Fund Annual Auction.
31 Emancipation Day Race, St. Lucia. St. Lucia Yacht Club (SLYC),
(758) 452-8350, secretary@stluciayachtclub.com,


1 Emancipation Day. Public holiday in Barbados, Grenada,
Guyana, Jamaica, St. Lucia, St. Vincent & the Grenadines,
and Trinidad & Tobago
2 -8 Tour des Yoles Rondes, Martinique. www.tourdesyoles.com
7 Marigot to Rodney Bay Race Day, St. Lucia. (SLYC)
9- 10 Grenada Carnival. www.spicemasgrenada.com
16 22 57th San Juan International Billfish Tournament, Puerto Rico.
21 Round St. Lucia non-stop race (SLYC)
28 Great Race (powerboats) from Chaguaramas,
Trinidad to Store Bay, Tobago

All information was correct to the best of our knowledge
at the time this issue of Compass went to press but plans change,
so please contact event organizers directly for confirmation.
If you would like a nautical or tourism event listed FREE in our monthly calendar,
please send the name and date(s) of the event and the name
and contact information of the organizing body to
sally@caribbeancompass. cor

FREE Caribbean Compass On-line FREE

Pl s S


I Cribba Cops Mare Ple



Providing all vital services to
Trans-Atlantic Yachts!
Incl. Chandlery, Charts, Pilots, Rigging
EU-VAT (14%) importation
Duty free fuel (+10.0001t)
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appointed agents in

Primer, Epoxy, Top Coat,
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Tel: 784 458 3319 Fax: 784 458 3000
Email: bequiaventure@vincysurf.com


eariibe n Woods
Bequia, St. Vincent
Phone: 1 (784) 457-3000

& Shoreline Mini-Market
We serve breakfast,
lunch and dinner
Phone (784) 458-3458
A friendly atmosphere where you can sit and meet people.
Admiralty Bay, Bequia
Noelina & Lennox Taylor welcome you!

r Bequia

TEL: (784) 458-3420 / (784) 485-6255
FAX: (784) 458-3797
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EMAIL: 1 ci...i "i, @ hotmail.com
PHONE: 1 (784) 532 8006
Quality Services & the Best Prices
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Phone: 784 458 3360 wallco@vincysurf.com
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Land and houses for sale
For full details see our website:
or contact Carolyn Alexander at
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e-mail: Islander@spIcelsle.com
Tel: (473) 443 8187 Fax: (473) 443 8290

We also handle Villa Rentals &
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SBook it now:
I or contact your local island agent



TechNick Ltd.
Engineering, fabrication and
welding. Fabrication and repair of
stainless steel and aluminium items.
Nick Williams, Manager
Tel: (473) 536-1560/435-7887
S.I.M.S. Boatyard, True Blue, Grenada
....................................** **

continued on next page -

Cirt ea Com as Iare I II



Teak.~~~~~~ Gle6ald aitnnepout


Inbest war to cI&,n & project )oor bokat
tel QmIf4$442 o~nh.' 'OUrw~ W~n .nIlli4~

Voiles Assistance
Oidier and Maria
Sails & Canvas (repairs & fabrication]
located at Carenantilles dockgard
Open Mondag to Fridag 8- 1 2am 2-6pm
Saturday bJ appointment
tel/fax: (596] 596 74 88 32
e-mail: didier-et-mariaiwanadoo.fr



Shipchandler. Arlimer '
Le Marn. Mann rtiniqueque,

Tel: -Fax:
acyb@mediaserv.net www.acyachtbrokers.com

Sti Lu cia
Dom ail repairs, biminis,
Port de Plaisance, 97290 Le Marigging, splicinique, F.W.I.
Tel: Fax:
acyb@mediaserv.net www.acyachtbrokers.com

St. Lueia

?R NT g Sail repairs, biminis,
l -* J I awnings, new sails,
]l[L rigging, splicing,
L er cockpit cushions,
S L servicing of winches.
Agents for Doyle,
Furlex & Profurl
Tel: (758) 452-8648 or
St. Lucia (758) 584- 0291

S. I fabrication
.. Director
Lawrence Lim Chee Yung
aka Chinaman
Fabrication o0p pits, stanchions, davits, chainplates,
anchr rkets, solarpanel arl esfmore
Rodney Bay Boatyard, Gros Islet, St. Lucia
Tel: (58) 485-0665 or (758) 384-0665
e-m ail: ..... ..... -, .. ..

S St. Lucia

Now reopened
in blue building
before Bank of St.Luc .-i
at the Rodney Bay Boat ard
Local menus and specials available!
Open Monday-Saturday from 09.00 until...
Tel: (758) 715-5458


< .. ii. I n i. ....- .
H h. ilil I II. I. .li i,[,"
Tel: (758) 715-8719

L'Essence Massage
Karen's special Yacht Crew Massage"

Rodney Bay Marina, Tel: (758) 715 4661
E-Mall: Lessencemassage@spray.se
Karen O. Roberts
Diploma in Massage/SPA Therapy from Sweden

St. Maarten

St. Maarten/ St. Martin, collect
and deliver door to door
Packages Pick up call:
Tel/Fax: + (599) 544-3276
Tel/Fax:+1(305) 515-8388

Book it now:
tom @ caribbeancompass.com
or contact your local island agent

continued on next page


D i et nti. i L pgraiLc
S) igh Outpt IAltefMI tI & Regu~r
S- rhii Ers & Irterfer lrr argC e
---- Solar & Wind eSyren
s Baeries ftDeq yde & Crnkig
F. ..- I I -... E flC. ..lU *Ifl .l.a


H, ,*e,,vo,,_ .IP..B,,
ACR iba


S6BToi 'Hcsfi

Ifq -.. I parr.s
S: aisles Sel -lO Fi kng

SEpoxy Resin
Polyesler Resins

sails & Lanvas
Pr.' Bor .4 W4 lA n RPA Oa4 n Tn.: 1 t Ih
in8Bit. 3MK1r iv *r b4 ra r oCui l M Iwnna i

Home of the
5 Year 50,000
Mile Guarantee

UdA L MArb Eant s
.ww 'doylrcaribbtean com


Book it now:
or contact your local island agent

We're on the Web!
Caribbean Compass


Wih eleven
locations from
Purto Rico to



1986 Oyster 435 13500GBP
1 i j .

fiberglass, vgc, new engine
and cruiser. GPS, RADAR,
VHF, Auto Pilot, EPIRB, SSB,
Water Maker, Air-Con, Solar
Panels, Wind Generator &
more. Full specs at www.free-
Looking for a fast sale so
Lucia. E-mail venus46@ive.com
or Tel (596) 696 90 74 29

111is 9m ^^



;J: iAiIri PAJOi L.-g .e.i
catamaran 2003, 2x3GM30
Yanmar Diesels, this isa project
catamaran which still needs
some work. Lying Martinique
890]30D ono. For more info &
photos www.lavezzi40forsale.
webs.com or to make offer
i . J29or E-mail
..J- 1. h ,
Tel (868) 739-6449

-I i ,I _.i, ,r.I -: I1
Lehmans, 7.5 knots. Bequia
built USS60.00


.,, ,l l -: r ,l I- ,

Tel (784) 458-30993831
493-2573, 532-8007

3 yV IW I I- 1 ,,-'1 :1 r:.-
able well maintained and
brought to the Caribbean on
containership. Best boat for
comfortable fast cruising and
club racing. Ext. overhauled,
new mast and rod rigging,
large sail wardrobe and
many extras. Ready to sail,
interesting price of US$550
reflects current location and
move to larger world cruiser.
E-mail cochisestellendam
zonnet.nI Tel (31) 655155907/


I- j 1 d:d

it PEirE Olj:Poir I rlic
CRUISER 1988 Center cock-
pit, single owner, lovingly
maintained. Sailed through-
out the Caribbean and now
located in Trinidad. Ready
for you to start cruising tomor-
row. USD 189,999 E-mail

bath & cabin, 2-300hp Volvo,
40 + cruising speed, only 200
hrs, sacrifice asking $69K
OBO, includes trailer, exec.
cond. & maint., seldom used,
see pics & specs at www.
SunSeekerVI.com, Tel (941)
730-5036 Make Offers!

to tell our advertisers you
saw their ad in Compass!


D, -,

':-iArlD BArj ;j it- t
known Classic". The ultimate
trawler, houseboat or great
business opportunity. Totally
restored, up to the original
standard. New planked bot-
tom, new propellers and
shafts, and much more.
Need to sell NOW I! See pic-
tures and all info at:

by the bucket o by the truck
load. By the well in Sprhg. Oslyn,
Tel (784) 457-3147/497-3692
E-mcil bunyana@ydcoo.cam

ble from Trinity Point Apiary,
Bee Keeper Hdge Taylor, in
280ml Jars. Wholesale and
retail FOB Bequia. E-mail
Bequia Sweet, Sweet, Sweeti

by mistake, it is an irmast during
mast including furer, lights,
spreaders, steps spi tracks, cm-
plete wth o without ring.
Make offers. TelFcK (473) 439
4495, kype turbulence 42921
SAILBOAT PROPS used 3 blade
from 13" to 22" diameter
Selftailing winches, Barlow,
Barient, Lewmar E-mail

DEALS athttp://doylecarib-
INSTRUMENTS, Discountprices:
w vnoaheTnrochi latax~iaescorn

36HP Trnidd cell (868) 6E0-1914
E-Mail JaDutch@tstt.nettt

US 50 per word include name,
address and numbers In count
Line drawings/photos accompany-
ing classified are US$10 Pre-pald
by the 15th of the month No replies



TORTOLA Busy,bayside,BVI
Arts and Craff center is look-
ing for a live-aboard couple
to help run the operation
next season. Ideal applicants
will be artistic, energetic,
organized, multi-ingual, with
excellent communication
and sales skills. For more info
please send CV to

multi-acre tracts. Great
views overlooking Southern
Grenadines and Tyrrel Bay.

Large 2 bedroom house and/
o 1 bed studio apartment.
Big verandah and patio,
stunning view, cool breeze.
Internet, cable TV. 2 weeks
minimum, excellent long-
term rates. Tel: (784) 495 117
email: louisan@vincysurf.com

Waterway condo near
Kennedy Space Center, all
amenities, sailboat slips.


A&C Yacht Brokers Martinique MP Carnacou Rega
ABC Manne Curacao 10 Carnacou Silver
Admiral Yacht Insurance UK 36 CIRExpress Coi
ARC Dynamic St Lucia MP Clippers Ship
Art & Design Antigua MP Cooper Manne
B & C Fuel Dock Petite Martinique 24 Curagao Manne
Barefoot Yacht Charters St Vincent 13 Dominica Mann
Barrow Sails & Canvas Tnnidad MP Dominican Rep
Bequia Venture Bequia MP Down Island Re
Blue Water Sailing USA 20 Doyle Offshore
Boatyard Bar & Bistro St Lucia MP Doyle's Guides
Budget Marine Slnt Maarten 2 Echo Manne J
Budget Manne Rigging Tnnidad 5 Eduardoho Boa
BVI Yacht Sales Tortola 42 Edward William
Camper & Nicholsons Grenada 21 Electropics
Caralbe Greement Martinique 8 Food Fair
Caralbe Greement Martinique MP Ford Motors
Caralbe Yachts Guadeloupe 39 Grenada Manne
Canb Jet Grenada 41 Grenadines Sail
Canbbean Manne Electrical Tnnldad MP GRPro-Clean
Canbbean Propellers Ltd Tnnldad MP Horizon Yacht C
Canbbean Woods Bequla MP International Sc


e Center
public Guide
al Estate

St Maarten
Dominican Rep

otun Special Tnnidad
ts Colombia
Insurance International
s Bequia
Charters Grenada
hool St Lucia


lolaire Enterprises UK
Island Water World Sint Maarten
Johnson Hardware St Lucia
Jones Mantime St Crolx
Kingfisher Manne Services Bequia
Le Phare Bleu Grenada
LEssence Massage St Lucia
Lulley's Tackle Bequia
Marc One Marine Trinidad
Mangot Beach Club St Lucia
Mclntyre Bros Ltd Grenada
Mid Atlantic Yacht Services Azores
Navimca Venezuela
Northern Lights Generators Tortola
Off Shore Risk Management Tortola
Perkins Engines Tortola
Petit St Vincent PSV
Port Hole Bequia

Power Boats
Renaissance Mainn
Rodney Bay Sails
Santa Barbara Reso

St Lucia



St Thomas Yacht Sales
Tikal Arts & Crafts
Tony's Engineering
Trade Winds Cruising
Transcaraibe Rallies
Turbulence Sails
Turbulence Sails
Tyrrel Bay Yacht Haulout
United Insurance
Virgin Gorda Yacht Harbour
Voiles Assistance
Wallace & Co
Wallilabou Anchorage
Xanadu Manne

St Thomas
St Vincent
St Lucia
St Maarten
Virgin Gorda
St Vincent

CW = Caribbean wide
MP = Market Place pages 43 to 45



from 15 May to 15 Sept Visit
www bluecharters net
training available now in
Antigua by recognized com-
pany ONDECK. Competent
Crew to Yachtmaster Ocean
available. Rease call (268)
562 6696 E mail eb@ondeck-
oceanracing.com or visit us in
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marine/land mechanical servic-
es, electrical/refrigeration/weld-
ing/diesel/outboard repair.
Moorings available.
VHF 68KMS" Tel (784) 530-
I ,,- A
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what's new?
Una n( the Uifrl rina rratis In ceam bin inl VinF eurly
i11i an inta l rraMr 6 r cral e The a ure a -i t
jsardl nti-Imarrt be mat h P arid A15 rinricaurllmn utis
making i1 a plug and play int er any nir hMF
'rf Capatii cr s:innig and n.ivrgaing lia uspoia ter
e In a P5S rEce nia a NMEC+I connection
pricd at i ts s

A batery am gr ranr lt ad i elir pr rcr.
t I ao nabin 3 nalput 12 ali 4] 0 snd All amp chergea; Itly
.g t e noy an -V sr, 11 g F irri bte irm;
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I n 1 i reserS a Ina i .t el i ties i r r tae s dteliNli
SNw.l low tiviny ,ntadf m to aeae altertgry ir; Batlry
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pirftflEinn brhi m the ut ?rc alsirauirina n tid ThIba
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an industral grpadfe y dcir b o year* limite warranty en power
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what's on sale in store?

Williamson Lures
lllmrians has dres sd s wa ite talirans ad acti: like rnoe blonr. Jig tra sria ilt
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eay poh j fl a*n make a frshiirg a E Iles bring. Ge you ighl an lopl ot 1e1 t
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and gill plate ha rigger streilis friom the arg atorls ra are dAm sep loa peu rigged
wilh a si gle assist bees
APied lmn-lKwmR aun

BA goIa Bl ly Chrwe dieri en grebrs
ard gaire an holdT s atn asiansiun
until II s pseped rit cantorrie
Inn dinpsaal. t prdriact dse
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ia PMls a-n NfiMlanU and m .at mono ma .ufr .m

hafs on web?
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