Title: Caribbean Compass
Full Citation
Permanent Link: http://ufdc.ufl.edu/UF00095627/00040
 Material Information
Title: Caribbean Compass the Caribbean's monthly look at sea & shore
Physical Description: v. : ill. ; 35 cm.
Language: English
Publisher: Compass Pub.
Place of Publication: Bequia, St. Vincent and the Grenadines
Publication Date: June 2010
Frequency: monthly
Subject: Boats and boating -- Periodicals -- Caribbean Area   ( lcsh )
Yachting -- Periodicals -- Caribbean Area   ( lcsh )
Genre: periodical   ( marcgt )
Spatial Coverage: Saint Vincent and the Grenadines
 Record Information
Bibliographic ID: UF00095627
Volume ID: VID00040
Source Institution: University of Florida
Holding Location: University of Florida
Rights Management: All rights reserved by the source institution and holding location.
Resource Identifier: oclc - 54085008
issn - 1605-1998


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JUNE 2010 NO. 177

Caribbean's M(

it Sea & Shore




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C A-R I B B E- A


The Caribbean's Monthly Look at Sea & Shore

Lightning Strikes
33 Bequia boats battle.......... 13

Home irom Home
Trinidad's enduring appeal... 23

uur nesL ourpnse
Bewitched by Barbados ........ 24

40 Yachting Years
Doyle reflects on changes ..... 26

Camp Tramp
One great Grenada hike........ 28

Clean-Up Karma
Cruisers care for Sandy Island.. 29


Business Briefs................... 8
Regatta News...................... 20
Destinations....................... 2
Meridian Passage.................30
Book Review ......................31
Fun Pages.........................32, 33
Cruising Kids' Corner............34
Dolly's Deep Secrets............ 34

Carlbbean Compass is published monthly by
Compass Publishing Ltd., P.O. Box 175 BQ,
Bequla, St. Vincent and the Grenadines.
Tel: (784) 457 3409, Fax: (784) 457 3410
w .carlbbeancompass.com
Editor .......................... .... Sally Erdle
Assistant Editor ...................Elaine Ollivierre
Advertising & Distribution ........Tom Hopman
Art, Design & Production......Wilfred Dederer
Accounting.. ............................. Debra Davis
Compass Agents by Island:
Antigua: Ad Sales & Distribution LucyTulloch
Tel (268) 720-6868
Barbados: Distribution Doyle Sails
Tel/Fax: (246) 423 4600
Curaao Distribution -Budget Marine CuraGao
Tel: (5999) 42 77 33
Dominica: Dlstribution Hubert J. Winston
Dondnlca Marine Center, Tel: (767) 448 2705,

The Caribbean Sky............... 35
Cooking with Cruisers.......36, 37
Readers' Forum................... 38
What's on My Mind...............41
Monthly Calendar ................ 42
Caribbean Marketplace......43
Classified Ads .................. 46
Advertisers' Index.............. 46

Grenada/Carriacou/Petite Martinique:
Ad Sales & Distribution Karen Maaroufl
Cell: (473) 4572151 Office: (473) 4443222
compassgrenada@hotmall comr
Martinique: Ad Sales & Distribution Isabele Prado
Tel: (0596) 596 68 69 71, Mob: + 596 (0) 696 93 26 38
St. Lucia Ad Sales Maurice Moffat
Tel: (758) 452 0147 Cell: (758) 720 8432.
Distribution Lisa Kessell
Tel: (758) 484 0555,
St. Maarten/St. Barths/Guadeloupe:
AdSales Stephane Leendre
Mob: + 590o/ (0 49
Dlsta utlon Erc Bendahan
Tel: (599) 553 3850, ercb@l repressloglstlcs.com
St. Thomas/USVI: Distribution Bryan Lezanm
Tel: (340) 774 7931, blezanal@earthllnk.net
St. Vincent & the Grenadines: Ad Sales Debra Davis
Tel: (784) 457-3527, debra@caibbeancomrnpass.com
Tortola/BVI: Dlstrutlon Gladys Jones
Tel: (284) 494 2830, Fax: (284)494 1584
Trinidad: Ad Sales & Distribution Jack Dausend
Tel: (868) 621 0575, Cell: (868) 620 0978
Venezuela: Ad Sales & Dlstritution PatiTomaslk
Tel: (58-281) 2653844 el/ax: (58281) 265 2448

Caribbean Compass welcomes submissions of short articles, news items photos and drawings
See Writers Guidelines at carbbeancompass com Send submissions to sally@caibbeancompass com
We support free speech! But the content of advertisements, columns, articles and letters to the editor are the sole
responsible othe eise water or corresponden and Compass Publisin Ltd acces no

Compass Publishing Ltd accepts no liability for delayed distnbutlon or printing quality as these services are
supplied by other companies
a, llmun mgrln "2010 Compass Publishing Ltd All rights reserved No reproduction, copy or transmission of this publication,
puBMnMoMn except short excerpts for review purposes, maybe made wthoutwtten permission of Compass Publishing Ltd
ISSN i605 1998

Cover photo: Carriacou sloop atAntigua Classics by Lucy Tulloch, www.thelucy.com

Click Google Map link below to find the Caribbean Compass near you!


New Channel Marks at Cole Bay Lagoon, St. Maarten
Carly Wiersum reports: Since February 2010 the channel towards Lagoon Marina
and FKG in Cole Bay Lagoon, St. Maarten, has been marked clearly by the Lagoon
Authority. The American system is used (red, right, return). The channel starts at the
northwest point of Simpson Bay Marina and runs across Cole Bay.
This is a great improvement for yachts with a draft up to nine feet (ten feet with
high tide) because previously the marking of the channel was rather confusing!
Cruisers Attend Crime Prevention Meeting In Grenada
In March, cruisers were given the opportunity to meet directly with senior members
of the Royal Grenada Police Force (RGPF) to exchange information about how the

safety and security presently enjoyed by cruisers in Grenada's waters can be
enhanced and preserved. The informative and positive meeting organized by the
Marine and Yachting Association of Grenada (MAYAG), included a review of marine
vessel-related crimes in 2009 and 2010, feedback from cruisers about their experienc-
es, discussion about crime prevention measures, and a number of ideas about how
the police and cruisers could work together more for the benefit of all.
Highlights of the meeting included a review of ten crimes (primarily theft) reported
to police involving seagoing vessels (commercial and recreational) in 2009 and the
five incidents reported in 2010 so far. The police also reported that of the ten crimes
reported in 2009 only four remained unsolved. The general consensus among the
audience members and the panelists is that crime reporting is good and accurate
in Grenada, based on evidence and feedback available. MAYAG also recom-
mends reporting yacht-related crimes to the Caribbean Safety and Security Net
(which meets each morning on single sideband frequency 8104.0 at 1215 UTC, or
visit www.safetyandsecuritynet.com), which is a forum for this specific purpose.
MAYAG President, Anita Sutton, also advised cruisers that incidents in Grenada can
also be reported to MAYAG, which will assist victims with follow-up and item recov-
ery where possible.
Recommendations coming forth from the meeting included improvement in com-
munications between RGPF divisions and investigators; developing a yacht-watch
programme where cruisers keep an eye out for each other while in anchorages;
and filing float plans with the Coast Guard in Grenada as well as the nearest sailing
destination (such as Trinidad or St. Vincent) before departure. The Coast Guard
phone numbers (473) 444-1931/1932/2674 were provided as well as 911.
Response time for emergencies was also discussed and information clarified. The
Grenada Coast Guard has a very small fleet of six vessels with only two of those cur-
rently in operation. The Coast Guard reported their response time to an offshore
emergency is 20 minutes for a 30-mile radius. Although the vessel enabling this
response time was on dry dock at the time of the meeting, it was expected to be
back in the water soon. In addition, a Regional Security Treaty exists that enables
cooperation between the Coast Guard services in the Eastern Caribbean. MAYAG
has been communicating with the Yacht Services Association of Trinidad & Tobago
(YSATT) as well as the Trinidad Coast Guard, who are in a much better position to
respond. They now have fast patrol vessels and are about to receive two large ves-
sels with helicopter capabilities.
The discussion included approximately 50 cruisers plus panelists including
Superintendent Belfon, Inspector Thomas and Troy Garvey of the RGPF; and Anita
Sutton and James Pascall of MAYAG. Special thanks are extended to De Big Fish
Restaurant in Prickly Bay for offering the venue for the meeting free of charge.
MAYAG would also like to extend a very special thank-you to all the attending cruis-
ers for their participation and enthusiasm and for the very generous offer to assist
with fundraising to enhance Grenada's Coast Guard services.
'Please Avoid Paria!'
On April 3rd, a couple sailing the German-flagged yacht Spirit of Cologne were
attacked one mile off the north coast of Venezuela along the Peninsula de Paria. During
the attack, Hans Jorgen Ropke was shot and killed. After the assailants left, his wife,
Angelica, stayed on the boat trying to sail in a northerly direction for four days.
-Continued on next page

Continued from previous page
As all communication equipment was removed she could contact no one. Angelica
eventually abandoned the boat in favour of her liferaft and drifted away from the boat,
which was left floating and seemingly in good condition. It is reported that the boat was
later found on a reef in Los Roques with Hans's body
on board.
Angelica was picked up on April 16th at approximately 10:35AM by a
merchant vessel at position 13 16'01N, 6751 01W, treated for expo-
sure and taken to Willemstad, Curacao where she was taken to
the hospital.
The German Net reported that Spirit of Cologne was a red steel vessel
of about ten metres, powered by an eight-horsepower outboard, and
that it cleared out of Carriacou on April 1st.
Yachts are strongly urged to avoid the north coast of the Peninsula
de Paria where numerous violent attacks have occured.

New Coast Guard Base at English Harbour
Allison Douglas reports: On April 26th, Antigua & Barbuda Minister of
National Security Errol Cort and US Charge d'Affaires D. Brent Hardt
officially opened the new English Harbor Coast Guard facility at a cere-
mony officiated by Antigua & Barbuda Defense Force Commander,
Colonel Trevor Thomas. The newly constructed facility will enhance
Antigua's maritime security and counter drug capabilities. This facility,
built at a cost of more than US$500,000, will provide a strategic base on
the southern side of Antigua that will significantly decrease response
times to requests for assistance in the region as well as assisting in drug
interdiction efforts. The base is ideally placed to be able to provide
support for Antigua's annual Sailing Week.

Changes to Cruising Permits in Grenada
The Government of Grenada has reviewed fees for visiting yachts,
and in line with much of the Caribbean, the cruising permit fee is now
charged on a monthly rather than "one time" basis.
The monthly cruising permit fees are as follows:
Not exceeding 40 feet ECS50
Exceeding 40 feet but not exceeding 60 feet ECS75
Exceeding 60 feet but not exceeding 80 feet ECS100
Exceeding 80 feet ECS150
Complete months spent in boatyards are exempt from the above fees. MAYAG
has requested that the exemption also be applied to time spent in marina berths, as
well as proposing an amnesty period for yachts already in Grenada with an old
one time" cruising permit. MAYAG is awaiting confirmation from Customs on these
requests, and we will publish more information as soon as it is available.
Overall, the tax and fee structure for yachts in Grenada is still favourable. Yachts
in Transit pay only 2.5 percent duty on imported parts and supplies, and yacht ser-
vices including dockage and yard storage for foreign-flagged vessels are exempt
from VAT.
For more information e-mail MAYAG at mayagadmin2@gmail corn

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Karisko's Canoe en Route to Martinique
A replica of a Kalinago dugout canoe left Grenada on May 11th, making stops in
Union Island, Mustique, Bequia, St. Vincent and St. Lucia en route to Martinique. The
canoe is being paddled by a crew of 27 young women and men. The objective of
the journey of the Akayouman is a symbolic re-enactment of an ancient

Amerindian navigation route while linking the peoples of the Windward Islands. The
Karisko project aims especially to create conditions for the Martiniquan people to
re-connect with the Amerindian history and heritage of their island.
For more information visit www.karisko cor

New Yacht Jetty for Dominica, Input Wanted
Andrew Thorley reports: During the summer of 2010, a jetty to accommodate four
to six cruising yachts is to be constructed in Toucarie Bay, Dominica. The project is
being driven by the village council and the local community is involved at every
level. Toucarie is the most northern bay on the west coast of Dominica with protec-
tion as good as that in Prince Rupert Bay.
Continued on next page

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Continuedfrom previous page
We are looking to attract cruisers back into the bay (many here remember swim-
ming out to yachts as kids 30 years ago when this was a popular anchorage) and
want to ask the readers of Caribbean Compass for help. As always, money is tight,
|, but we are investing in buildings and services
to enhance your stay here and want to find
out what cruisers really need and want.
S We would appreciate receiving e-mails
describing what would attract you and what
Smay deter you, what services you would
S expect and what services would be a bonus.
And please don't hold back, we are open-
S minded to WiFi, beach showers, food outlets,
S live music, water supply, bread delivery and
any other ideas. Just remember everything
Sto CScosts money, and would you be willing
to pay?
Toucarie is a pretty bay with a couple of
S small beaches, a tiny local community, a few
rum shops" and some fabulous snorkelling
plus access to all of the northern sights on the
t Nature Isle.
We are excited about welcoming our yacht-
S" + ing friends back; please e-mail us:
Cruisers' Site-ings
Snap that fluke! Cruisers can contribute to a humpback whale research project.
Please send tail fluke photos of humpback whales seen in the Eastern Caribbean to
andrea@eccnwhale.org. For more information visit www.eccnwhale.org
Island Water World now has a Facebook page. Check it out at www.facebook.
Hands Across the Sea is looking for tax-deductible cash gifts and in-kind dona-
tions of new and "gently used" children's and young adult books for our very suc-
cessful Schools (not Pirates!) of the Caribbean program: www.handsacrossthesea.
What kinds of books are best to donate? Caribbean kids need books with
Caribbean content (Macmillan-Caribbean is a great publisher), books featuring
black characters and multiple races, Big Books sets (from Scholastic), class sets of 15
or more beginning-reader books, books with content that engages boys (adven-
ture, sports, monsters, mysteries) and all manner of fiction and non-fiction books for
school and classroom libraries. In addition to books, school principals and school
teachers have told us what teaching resources they need you'll find each
school's Wish List on the Hands Wish Lists page. To donate funds, visit www.hand-
* Interested in oceans? Visit the World Ocean Observatory's redesigned website at
www.thew2o.net- a more useful and friendly system to link you with thousands of
ocean-related programs and organizations around the world and to engage you
through web connections, resources, newsletters, events, radio features, subscription

services, forums, and educational networks in a global conversation about a
campaign for a sustainable ocean.
Find Out More about Chaguaramas, Trinidad
Ruth Lund reports: Three indispensable publications help those visiting
Chaguaramas, Trinidad.
The regularly updated, free Boaters' Directory of Trinidad & Tobago has become
an essential guide for boaters and local business people over the past 15 years
and is packed with useful details about Customs, Immigration, suppliers and
services available.

Also freely available is The Bay magazine, published every two months, featuring
news, views, upcoming events and issues that concern the leisure marine industry in
Trinidad. These two publications can be obtained from the YSATT office in Crewslnn
and many marinas, boatyards and businesses throughout Chaguaramas.
For those who want to find their way not only in Chaguaramas, but also in other
parts of Trinidad and Tobago, there is Navigate T&T, a street finder with a difference,
using aerial photos superimposed with street details to help you find your way
around. The first edition can currently be purchased at Budget Marine and there is a
new, expanded edition "in the pipeline".
For more information on Chaguaramas see ad on page 47.
Welcome Aboard!
In this issue of Compass we welcome new advertisers ABC Marine of Curacao, on
page 21; Chaguaramas/Budget Marine Rigging of Trinidad, on page 47; Edward
William Insurance, on page 11; and ARC Dynamic, the Boatyard Bar & Bistro,
L'Essence Massage, Rodney Bay Sails, and Tony's Engineering Services, all of St.
Lucia and in the Market Place section. Good to have you with us!


Ser Boca Marina, Curaaos finest private harbor, has openings
for rkickagc. Locaied outside the hurricane belt in the protected
water of Smpnis Waler Bay, Scru Hoca Marina is conidered
one of the finest and safers yacht anchorage in the Caritbcan.

* The most adraed design on CurZo.
* Floating docks enginrcnd in Hollutmd
* AccOcnntxion fo6S yachs up I ]V50 ft- /15 fI draft.
"* electrical powI r (127 rnd 221).
* Cable T.V, and portable wtcr available,
* Marina taff nonilo VHF fdio charnel 67 and ai aVailable

to aist boatm in docking amd caving the Marina, as
well as to asis in locating apppriate rvces as needed.
*Scru Boca Marina is a sale hathnr hal offcr
24 hour security.

For information on rates and facilities,
call (599 9) 560-2599

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Port Louis Grenada says 'Welcome to Summer!'
Danny Donelan reports: Port Louis Marina, located just outside beautiful St.
George's, Grenada, is the perfect base for yachts during the summer months,
thanks to:

* Our very attractive summer prices for yachts staying longer than one month dur-
ing Summer 2010. These low rates include free internet with high-speed broadband
connections allowing you to run your businesses or easily stay in touch with your
family, holding tank pump-outs, some of the nicest bathroom facilities anywhere in
the Caribbean, a swimming pool and your own private beach. Paid facilities include
water, power and cable TV.
* Other facilities, including restaurants, boutiques, craft shops, convenience store,
resort wear shop, chandlery, sailmaking and rigging, guardianage and boat mainte-
nance, provisioning, car rental and taxs.
* Our 170 berths, including more convenient alongside berths than most marinas in
the Caribbean.
* Our location at 12 degrees North outside of the usual hurricane belt.
* A quick hop from the marina is the closest international airport to the Grenadines
with great connections to Miami, New York and London in the off season (and also
Toronto and Frankfurt in the high season). Fly your friends in for a Grenadines cruise!
* Some of the Caribbean's friendliest people and a low crime rate.
* No 'boatyard boredom'! There are many excellent day-sail anchorages right
in Grenada and top cruising destinations in the nearby Grenadines. Fun summer
events include the Carriacou Regatta Festival in early August, followed by the
visitor-friendly Grenada Carnival.
Port Louis Marina is a walk, bus or dinghy ride from the picturesque capital of St.
George's with its colorful shops, bustling market, good restaurants and exciting new
jazz clubs, plus chandleries, supermarkets, gyms, playing fields, and tennis and bas-
ketball courts. The marina is also an ideally situated jumping-off point for trips to
Grenada's rivers, waterfalls, rainforest, white and black sand beaches, and more.
All this makes it a very cool place to spend the summer!
Contact Danny Donelan at danny donelan@cnporflouismarina.com or call on
(473) 435-7431 or (473) 415-0837 for more information on booking into Port Louis
Marina this summer
For more information see ad on page 12.
Keeping it Green at Island Water World
Birgit Roethal reports: Sailors in general, and cruisers in particular, are an environ-
mentally conscious group, no doubt because so much of our day-to-day activity
takes place at sea and our travels take us to some of the most pristine places on
Earth. Most strive to make their boats as environmentally friendly as possible -just
witness the array of solar panels, wind generators, etcetera. A big issue for many is

keeping our boats and their various operating systems clean. Most products that
deal effectively with the harsh stains, markings and scaling that the seagoing envi-
ronment inflicts on our boats have to be powerful and most are dangerous and
toxic to some degree a problem in application and disposal.
At Island Water World we continue to search for products with improved environ-
mental and human health characteristics. We are pleased to have become the
Caribbean Distributor for EcoConcepts "Green Concepts" marine care products, a
range that includes barnacle removers, plus bilge, hull and deck, glass and chrome
cleaners, as well as degreasers. All these products carry The US Environmental
Protection Agency's Design for the Environment (DfE) seal. This mark enables you to
quickly identify and choose products that can help protect the environment and
are safer to use. Product manufacturers like EcoConcepts who become DfE part-
ners, earn the right to display the DfE logo on recognized products, having invested
heavily in research, development and reformulation to ensure that their ingredients
and finished product line up on the green end of the health and environmental
spectrum while maintaining or improving product performance.
Find the entire range by visiting our online store at www.islandwaterworld.com. Also
look for our own ECO logo, which highlights other truly green products from sol-
vents to solar panels.
For more information see ad on page 48.

Name Change for Our Printers
Trinidad Publishing Company Limited, which publishes the Trinidad Guardian news-
paper and has printed the Caribbean Compass since 1995, has changed its name
to Guardian Media Limited effective 26th April 2010. The prominence of Guardian in
the new name is premised on the strength of the Guardian brand and the desire to
maintain a historical perspective of the company.
In 1998, the company expanded its products to include radio broadcasting, and in
2005 added television broadcasting. The company is contemplating further expan-
sion into new areas of media, and the change in name reflects its wide range
of business.

Trinidad Destination of Choice for Superyacht's Repairs
Trinidad was chosen as the most suitable location for repairs after the 115-foot
superyacht Signe recently hit a semi-submerged container in the Caribbean Sea. At
120 tons displacement, she was easily hauled at Crews Inn, in Chaguaramas Bay,
using their mammoth 250-ton travel lift.
Continued on next page



iiaue F.W.I.

Continued from previous page
Peter Laine, of Laine Company Boat Works, was chosen to carry out the extensive
repairs to the rudder. Peter is well known in the region as a boatbuilder and repairer,
having recently launched the stunning DH550 catamaran Cheetah, one of four sis-
ter ships built in Trinidad over the past few years.
Signe's skipper, Alistair Marshall, was under pressure to get to the Mediterranean in
time for the summer charter season and felt confident the facilities and local skills in
Trinidad would suit his needs of high quality, professionalism and fast turn-around.
"Peter's a craftsman of the highest order. The repairs went well and we're delighted
to have Signe back in the water and underway once more," said Alistair as Signe
was launched after three weeks on the hard.
For more information on yacht services available in Trinidad see ad on page 47.
No Plans has No Worries with Dockwise
After a recent voyage, which started in Ft. Lauderdale, Florida, took them to
Mexico, Belize, Roatan, San Andres and Providencia, and then through the Panama
Canal, Mary and Larry Mason of Sacramento, California are planning to take their
Nordhavn 57, No Plans, back home from Costa Rica by using one of the Dockwise
yacht carriers in November.
"We have used Dockwise yacht delivery services for two Atlantic crossings," said
Larry, pointing out that Dockwise takes care of Customs paperwork and includes
insurance for each of its voyages, "and we will work with them to get No Plans to
the next great cruising ground of the Pacific Northwest and Alaska." "The bottom
line is we don't have to worry about a thing when our boat is making a Dockwise
trip," said Mary. "They take care of the hard part before leaving us in friendly cruis-
ing country."
Dockwise has a total of four yacht carriers including the 686-foot (209-metre) super
ship Yacht Express. They use the float on/float off loading method that allows yachts
of any size to be safely floated on and off as cargo. The carriers submerge them-
selves by pumping nine million gallons of water into their ballast tanks; the vessels
are floated into place one-by-one; and then finally they are sea-fastened before
the ship pumps dry to prepare for boat transport. The process is reversed to allow
the yachts to safely disembark once they reach their final destinations.
For more information see ad on page 16.

Ondeck's Boat Ownership Initiative
Ondeck has launched a new initiative to make boat ownership a reality for all.
Potential owners can enjoy Ondeck's unrivalled buying power to acquire an Elan
410 at the best possible price. With bases in the UK, Portugal, Antigua, and the US,
Ondeck are able to ensure owning a yacht is affordable through reliable charter
income achieved through the Ondeck Charter Management programme which is
always looking for quality charter yachts to join its ever-expanding fleet.
As a potential replacement for the still-popular Beneteau First 40.7 fleet on the race
and charter circuit, the Elan 410 has already achieved a string of impressive race
results, but also makes a comfortable cruiser for sailing with family and friends. It has
also become the perfect choice for corporate sailing following an outstanding track
record of success in yacht charter.
Ondeck's Russell Lake explains: "Firstly we buy direct from the builder and have

negotiated the Elan 410 at a huge saving, then we will handle everything from man-
agement of the new build through to delivery, MCA coding for charter and of
course managing the charter of it to help pay for the investment. We have an
envied reputation for looking after our charter fleet and will make sure each boat is
kept in tiptop condition and ready for the owner's use.
For more information see classified ad in this issue.
St. Lucia's International School Earns University Scholarships
International School St. Lucia proudly announces that its recent graduating class of
23 students has been offered more than US$91,000 in scholarships to date. Even
more money is expected pending final results promising to break
the US$100,000 mark.
The scholarship money came almost equally from universities in the UK, Canada
and the United States. The guidance counselor at the school assisted each student
to apply to schools where students' interests were best matched with programs at
the schools. Some scholarships were one-off entrance scholarships, while others
were offered on an ongoing basis based on continued achievement.
These scholarships reflect the high academic success of its first graduating class.
The students have excelled in as many as 20 courses in varied disciplines, often with
averages of over 90 percent. Many of these students also represented their country
in sporting events, the arts, and other activities such as the Caribbean Media
Exchange, environmental conferences, and Youth Parliament.
International School St. Lucia, situated in the Rodney Bay area, offers an accredit-
ed private school education from New Brunswick Canada, for primary and second-
ary students, and university preparation for 16- to 18-year-olds (equivalent to A lev-
els). The school will now offer first-year university on-line. Boarding can be arranged
and students from St. Vincent, Bequia, Canouan, Trinidad and China are currently in
place. Registration for the 2010-2011 year is now underway.
For more information see ad on page 11.
Low-Season Specials at Lagoon Marina, St. Maarten
From July 1st until November 1st, 2010, Lagoon Marina of St. Maarten is offering
low-season specials on slips. Book now!
For more information phone 00599 5442611 or e-mail info@lagoon-marina com
Fountaine Pajot Owners' BVI Rendez-Vous
Horizon Yacht Charters was proud sponsor of the second Fountaine Pajot Owners'
Rendez-Vous which took place in the British Virgin Islands, April 28th through May 1st.
Owners were invited to take part by cruising on their own Fountaine Pajot catama-
ran or on one chartered from Horizon Yacht Charters. Sixteen boats participated.
For more information visit www.horizonyachtcharters.com
Compass Welcomes New St. Lucia Agent
Compass Publishing Ltd. is pleased to introduce our new advertising agent in St.
Lucia to Caribbean Compass readers.
Maurice Moffat, known as MM and
no stranger to the advertising world,
joined the sales team in March of this
year, with a wealth of marketing
experience. In 1974, Maurice was
appointed as Radio St. Lucia's first
Sales Manager, one of the team
responsible for the station's transition
from the Government s mouthpiece
to a full-fledged commercial
radio station.
Prior to that stint with Radio St.
Lucia, MM served as Sales Manager
with CARDEVCO Ltd, a pioneer of
prefabricated wooden houses in St.
Lucia, and WITECo, a heavy equip-
ment distributor based in St. Lucia
and servicing the OECS. His last full-
time position was manager of his
own company, C Maurice
& Associates.
In more recent times, MM has
retired from full-time employment to
take up sailing in the waters of the
Windward Islands where he is often seen at the popular regattas of Bequia, St. Lucia
and Martinique on his faithful O'Day 37, One Time. MM's first love is cruising and he
never subjects One Time to the rigours of racing, but he often has a lot of advice for
sailors in the region.
Caribbean Compass welcomes MM to the sales team and wishes him every suc-
cess in his new venture with the Compass.

Johnson Hardware Ltd


Chain & Rope

Anchors & Fenders
Electric Wire

Marine Hoses

Bilge Pumps

Lubricants & Oils

Stainless Fasteners

Stainless Fittings
VHF Radios

Flares & Life Jackets

Snorkeling Equipment

Fishing Gear

Antifouling Paint

Paint Brushes

Epoxy Resins

Sanding Paper & Discs
Hand & Power Tools

Houseware & Cookware

I~~~~~~ ~ ~~ RonyBy tIui e:(5)4209 a:(5)4201 -al adaecnt


Is the "permit to moor" St. Lucia's way of telling yachting visitors "You are
not welcome"?
Clear into almost any country in the Eastern Caribbean that is serious about yacht
ing, and you are free to visit any of that country's harbors. It is not true of St. Lucia.
Let us look in on a sailing newcomer to St. Lucia, clearing into Rodney Bay. He will
be asked: "Do you wish to visit any other ports?" The hapless fellow, having heard
about the island's beautiful west coast, will say, "Yes, Soufriere." Whereupon, the
Customs officer might ask, "And the Pitons?" Our newcomer, who vaguely knows
Soufriere and the Pitons are in the same area, says "Sure, why not?"
What this poor fellow does not know is that Soufriere is a port of entry, so he can
go there with no problem. But the Pitons are not.
"Well, sir," says the Customs officer, "You must tell me which day you want to visit
the Pitons and I will issue you a permit to moor, which costs 25 dollars."
Yes, extraordinary as it may seem, when you visit St. Lucia by yacht you are asked
which anchorages you want to visit -and should you want to visit any that is not
a port of entry, you must get a permit for the very day you are going to visit, and pay
EC$25. This gives St. Lucia the dubious distinction, along with Anguilla, of having
the most restrictive and unfriendly cruising regulations in the entire Eastern
Caribbean. And if you do not yet know on what specific day you might want to visit
such an anchorage, then you will have to return to Customs when you do.
The matter does not quite stop there, because our cruiser, having got his permit to
moor, cheerfully sails down to the Pitons and takes a mooring. Whereupon an SMMA
park ranger comes along and asks him to pay. "But," says our poor sailor, "I already
have paid for my permit to moor at the Pitons; here it is!" "Sorry," says the ranger,
"what you have there is a permit to moor, a Customs document, and what I am ask
ing for is an entry fee for the marine park." The rangers will make the guy under
stand and collect their fee. But the cruiser now feels he has been taken advantage
of: charged twice for coming to one place. He might return to St. Lucia, but on sub
sequent trips he is unlikely to visit any place other than a port of entry -too much
hassle for him, and too bad for people in numerous small villages who would like to
welcome the yachts into their bays, too.
A couple of years ago I included the anchorage at Laborie, on St. Lucia's south
coast (see photo), in my Sailors' Guide to the Windward Islands for the first time. This
was done at the request of members of the Laborie community, who would like to
see more visiting yachts. They even went to the trouble of putting down some moor
ings for visitors. How much good is that going to do them when any time a yacht
skipper decides to go there, he first has to go to Customs at a port of entry, declare
exactly which days he wants to visit Laborie, and pay an extra fee to do so?
Imagine for a moment that you are a tourist arriving in St. Lucia by plane. At
Customs the officer asks, "Where are you staying?" You say "A hotel at Rodney Bay."
He then asks, "Will you be visiting any other locations?" You say, "Yes, I'd like to see
the Pitons." He then says, "Tell me which day you want to visit the Pitons and I will
issue you a permit; it will cost 25 dollars." If you say, "Well, I am not yet sure which
day I will be going," he replies, "Then before you go, come back here to Customs and
get your permit; you may not go without it!"
What do you think that restriction would do to day-tourism in the Pitons area? It
would be gone in a flash. No visitor wishes to spend his holiday running in and out of

Customs offices getting permits to travel within a country. It would be an absurdity for
people staying in land-based accommodation. But it is equally unattractive for people
visiting by yacht!
How are those of us who are trying to promote yachting in St. Lucia supposed to
encourage yachtspeople to visit anchorages such as Canaries, Anse La Raye and
Laborie, when they are made to jump through this unnecessary bureaucratic hoop?
Most would prefer not to bother, and head up to Martinique or down to St. Vincent
& the Grenadines, places with abundant attractive anchorages where no such
restriction applies. I do not blame them.
So why is St. Lucia stuck with this absurd regulation? It was put into effect decades
ago. I was then working for Stevens' Yachts, which had recently moved from Grenada
to Rodney Bay, St. Lucia. The St. Lucia government (then under the late Sir John
Compton) was keen to do anything it could to help yachting. There was no Customs
office in Soufriere then, but charterers starting and finishing their cruise in Rodney
Bay, at the far north of St. Lucia, wanted to break their journey to and from the
Grenadines by stopping in the south of the island, at Soufriere or the Pitons. They
wished to make this stop both on their way south, after they had cleared out of St.
Lucia through Customs, and on the way back north, before they had cleared back in.
The "permit to moor" rule was instituted to allow them to do so, making the arrange
ments when they cleared out. It was, at the time, an excellent rule that, along with
St. Lucia's yacht-friendly three-day in-and-out clearance, helped boost yachting.
In the beginning the permit to moor was not used to regulate yachts during the
time they were cleared into St. Lucia. Now it is, and has become a very yacht
unfriendly, restrictive regulation -and because Soufriere is now a port of clearance,
it is totally unnecessary.
Furthermore, it is an embarrassing enough regulation that Atlantic Rally for
Cruisers (ARC) yachts are exempted from it every year! Yes, when the ARC comes,
St. Lucia wants to make a good impression, so the permit to moor is not applied to
ARC boats some 200 of them annually. If it is not necessary to apply this rule
during the ARC arrival, why is it necessary to enforce it at any other time?
The next question is, why doesn't it get changed? Some people tell me it is because
the Customs Department really needs the income the permit to moor produces. (I
find this difficult to believe and in any case, from a government point of view, it
would be a totally dysfunctional way to proceed. If Customs needs yacht income, let
them charge every arriving yacht EC$5. It would more than make up for abolishing
the counter-productive permit to moor.) No, I think it is there as a historical artifact,
and it has not been changed because it tends to fly below the radar of most people
in St. Lucia who perhaps could get it changed. When I mentioned it to two people, I
got the same reaction: "You mean they are still doing that?"
It is time to change this regulation and bring St. Lucia in line with other islands in
the Eastern Caribbean that are serious about yachting.
When your paperwork has been completed, every Customs officer should be able
to say: "You have now cleared in; enjoy sailing around St. Lucia!"

Editor's note: We passed Chris's article on to Cuthbert Didier, the St. Lucia Ministry
of Tourism's new Director of Yachting. His reply follows.

Dear Editor,
Since receiving your most recent Deck View from Chris Doyle, I have met with the
Comptroller of Customs and two of his high-level staff members here in St. Lucia to
discuss the "permit to moor" regulation.
The general consensus is that this piece of Customs legislation is out-dated and
needs to be reviewed. Systems are being put in place in Soufriere and other ports to
address the way the regulation is being implemented.
The way forward as I have recommended is that the Customs "mooring of yachts
regulation 15.05" be repealed, and that this fee be captured in a single yacht-licensing
fee to be provided under a St. Lucian Yachting Act.
This fee structure/regulation was born out of the need for the Customs Department
to get a clear sense of where yachts were moored once cleared into St. Lucia. Now, with
two marinas, well-organized marine parks, and abetter-organized Customs Department,
indeed there are other more efficient systems that can and will be implemented.
St. Lucia will address this regulation and a firm date has been set by my office and
the Comptroller of Customs to submit a new framework to the powers that be. I will
submit the new policy by mid-June.
In the meantime I have requested that the Comptroller of Customs issue an inter
nal policy to ensure the scenarios that Chris outlined no longer take place.
Thanks for the insightful article, as we do know constructive criticism is key to
ensuring our yachting sector remains vibrant and hassle-free.
Cuthbert Didier
Director of Yachting
St. Lucia

SF I Boat Insurance

SAny Cra y Use, by A AnywAee!



0600 0200 NMG Broadcast B Wefax* USB i In i n ii Saint Lucia
0930 0530 Offshore Forecast A Voice USB
1030 0630 Trinidad Emergency Net 9Z4CP 3855 Voice LSB/ham III ,
1100 0700 Caribbean Weather (Chris) 8137 Voice USB (Note 2)
1100 0700 Caribbean Maritime Mobile Net 7250 Voice LSB/ham (Note 3)
1100 0700 Bahamas Weather Net 4003 Voice USB
1110 0710 Puerto Rico/VI Weather Net 3930 Voice LSB/ham
1120 0720 C6AGG Carolyn Wardle Weather Net 3696 Voice LSB/ham
1130 0730 KP2G Caribbean Weather Net 7086 Voice LSB/ham (Note 1)
1200 0800 NMG Broadcast B Wefax* USB
1230 0830 Caribbean Weather (Chris) 8104 Voice USB (Note 2)
1300 0900 Caribbean Sea (WLO) C Voice USB
1330 0930 Caribbean Weather (Chris) 12350 Voice USB (Note 2) jju
1530 1130 Offshore Forecast A Voice USB Ki to l h
1800 1400 Caribbean Sea (WLO) C Voice USB Ph lllb i p the
1800 1400 NMG Broadcast B Wefax* USB
2000 1600 Southbound II (Herb) 12359 Voice USB
2030 1630 Carib. Cocktail & Weather Net 7086 Voice LSB/ham na In ternation
2130 1730 Offshore Forecast A Voice USB Pra n r n
2235 1835 Carib. Emergency & Weather Net 3815 Voice LSB/ham inm UUL
0000 2000 Caribbean Sea (WLO) C Voice USB
0000 2000 NMG Broadcast B Wefax* USB o r c u 5 saint lucia *west indies
0330 2330 Offshore Forecast A Voice USB

Since November 3, 2008 severaled radiofax charts produced by the National Hurricane Center which are broadcast from
New Orleans are based on information from different model run times. A 36 hour wind/wave chart has been added to
the New Orleans broadcast. For full details visit www.nhc.noaa.gov/radiofax transmission changes.shtml
Frequencies (in kHz):
A) NMN, Chesapeake, 4426, 6501, 8764, 13089, 17314 IIaIr
Caribbean Sea approximately 25 minutes later
NMG, New Orleans, 4316, 8502, 12788
Caribbean Sea approximately 25 minutes later
B) 4316, 8502, 12788, 17144.5
C) 4369, 8788, 13110, 17362, 22804. Gulf of Mexico, southwest North Atlantic, then
Caribbean Sea
Note 1: An in-depth voice report followed by faxes and SSTV, except Sundays.
Note 2: Unless severe weather threatens, this net is not conducted on Sundays. When
there are active Tropical systems in the Atlantic, Caribbean Weather (Chris) runs a Net
at 2300 UTC / 1900 AST, on 8137, Voice, USB. For complete schedule and changes visit [g g
Note 3: George comes on approximately 0710 with a weather synopsis, then moves to 7086 a
and at 0730 gives the complete Caribbean forecast including rebroadcasting WEFX. a lu o
WWV has World Marine Storm Warnings (Voice) at 8 minutes after each hour, and Solar
Flux information at 18 minutes after each hour on 2500, 5000, 10000, 15000, and 20000 AM.
During hurricane activity, information can be found continuously on the Hurricane Watch Net
on 14325 USB/ham. *.n
Anyone, licensed or not, may legally operate on HAM frequencies in the event of a life-
threatening emergency. rriiN
For cruiser info, check out the Coconut Telegraph at 1200 UTC (0800 AST) at 4060 USB.
St. Martin/Maarten 0730 VHF 14 Monday-Saturday
English Harbour 0900 VHF 68/06 Daily
Grenada 0730 VHF 68 Monday-Saturday
Chaguaramas 0800 VHF 68 Daily
Porlamar 0800 VHF 72 Monday-Saturday
Puerto La Cruz 0745 VHF 72 As available BOAT INSURANCE
Thanks to numerous cruisers for this information, which was correct to ths e best of our Admird Marine Ltd4 Barn e, Bakey RSb SPI 2LP, U
knowledge as this issue of Compass went to press. Interested in becoming a fact-checker E quotes o Ww
of t scheduler uture issues? Please contact sallycarbbeancompass.com. a thors & reud b t nanal Services Au

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Oh how time do fly! It April de 3rd an' it look like it was yesterday Ah
was standin' here doin' de same t'ing. Yes, is de Bequia Easter Regatta
an' we on Lower Bay beach ready fo' start de open boat race. Is nine
o'clock an' de yachts getting' ready fo' start too. It got 53 ah dem, all
sail colour, all nationality out in de bay. Dem look good. It look like we
go' ha' fo' change some ah we sail colours too -we got white sand an' white sails,
hard on de eye! But Heineken an' Mount Gay blend in ah bit wid dem feather flags
mek de beach look pretty.
Well ah count 31 boats on de sand but is 33 registered. Two is Seven' Day Adventist
and dey goin' come tomorrow. We got three big boys from Carriacou, Hurricane,
Skyler an' Passion; two from Union Island fo' de first time, Unity an' Unity 2; seven
from Canouan wid name like Nerissa 1 an' 2, Ark Royal, Liberty, Scope International,
Shark an' Spy. From home we got de ol' Iron Duke an' Limbo an' in de big boys is
Confusion, Lightning, Bequia Pride, Braveheart an' ah new one dis year, Double Bluff.
In Class 5, from Bequia we got Tornado, More Worries, Shamu, Shannalou an' not
stayin' home Devine. In de small classes we got My Love, IC, Bennita G, Never D,
Knowledge, Rat, Lady G an' De Reef.
Is 11:30 an' off dem go. De weather nice, ah gentle breeze, water smooth -no
bottom up today. Course down to West Cay an' ah triangle off Paget Farm an' finish
off de ramp. Ah say de wind light an' de sun hot but dem boat eat up de time. Before
ah could reach round south, some ah dem done finish. Nex' year, we go' ha' fo' mek
de track longer. But ah tell yo', Lightning flash t'rough de finish line ah good time
ahead ah de others, Hurricane also, in second place. Well, dem boat got sail like joke
so dem slidin' in de smooth water an' light breeze. Today is just de warm-up -dat
is de excuse fo' today. Tomorrow go' be de fight.
Sunday course fo' de big boys, start Friendship, up to Hope Rock, triangle off Paget
Farm, down to West Cay, upwind finish off Hamilton Point. We go' see de men from
de boys! Eleven o'clock start, weather fair, wind touchin' northeasterly about 12 to
15 knots, water smooth. Off dey go -dem lookin' good, all eight ah dem: Confusion,
Bequia Pride, Double Bluff, Braveheart, Lightning, Hurricane, Skyler, Passion wid
Limbo an' Iron Duke. What ah beauty! Dem turn Hope Rock an' downwind dey go, all
stretched out. Lightnin' an' Confusion fightin' on de draw but Skyler catchin' up fast.
Dey turn de Adams Mark an upwind to Semple Cay, tack fo' tack until, Confusion
comin' in on starboard an' Skyler goin' off de land on port: nobody want fo' give way,
man shoutin' from all two boats but nobody budgin'. Bam! Collision, no damage but
top paints change colour. Protest time -ah know who wrong but dat fo' later.
Dem go round de mark an' downwind neck an' neck, Lightning an' Confusion again
because Skyler slow down ah bit after de collision. But on de upwind leg is good
breeze an' she pass everybody again to finish first across de line. Double Bluff, Bequia
Pride, an' de others trailin'. Dey go' catch up on de north side (says me!). But not to
be; Confusion an' Lightning in contention, tack fo' tack an' close, one tack fo' de finish.
Lightning tack, Confusion ain't cover -bad move -Lightning hit de finish in second
place. As fo' de protest, Skyler admit she wrong so dat is dat. She get penalized which
give Lightning de first again. Double Bluff it look like she ain't shuffle de pack never
mind fo' play dem: Bequia Pride still puttin' up ah good fight. As fo' Confusion, she
livin' up to she name. Two down, one more fo' go. Tomorrow go' be another fight.
But we standin' here havin' ah few green ones an' me thoughts racin' too. Ah gone
back to me good friend Mackie an' Trouble an' what we went through an' how fast
tings come an' go. Dem old people say when king dead, nation done. When ah look
at Trouble ah believe dat. Ah mention Trouble but we ha' names like Baltaza, Bluff,
Perseverance, Spank, Cloudy Bay, all missin' on de track. We will ha' fo' do somet'in'
about dat or sooner rather than later, our numbers will be few.

Bequia Easter Regatta 2010
Double-Ender Winners

Class 1
1) Knowledge, Ryan Marks, Bequia
2) Rat, Dwayne Gregg, Bequia
3) Lady G, Mickel Joseph, Bequia
Class 2
1) My Love, Stanley Harry, Bequia
2) Never D, Alfie Osborne, Bequia
3) Bennita G, Rashiv Simmons, Bequia
Class 4
1) Unity, Silas Mulzac, Union Island
2) Ark Royal, Dickson Bynoe, Canouan
3) Liberty, Elmore Snagg, Canouan

Kingsley Stowe, (right) skipper ofTornado, receives
the Admiralty Transport trophy from Godwin Friday
Class 5A
1) Tornado, Kingsley Stowe, Bequia
2) Nerissa J 2, Vernon Laidlow, Canouan
S3) Nerissa J, Matthew McLaurean, Canouan
Class 5B
1) Shamu, Ekron Bunyan, Bequia
2) More Worries, Andy Mitchell, Bequia
3) Devine, Delacey Leslie, Bequia
Class 6
1) Limbo Dance, Allick Daniel, Bequia
2) Iron Duke, Evan Chambers, Bequia
Class 7
1) Lightning, Emmanuel Bethel,
Bequia/Petite Martinique
2) Confusion, Wayne Gooding, Bequia
3) Double Bluff, Lashie King, Bequia

Ah t'ink about our first racin' trip out ah de Grenadines. We went to Tobago on de
tugboat, Stratmann I skipper Iron Duke an' Mackie in Trouble. Ah beat him of course
but we had ah very good time! Those were de days. But now Mackie has passed on
an' ah hope dey don't allow Trouble to do de same.
Well, Monday is here an' if yo' remember, ah say Saturday was de warm up.
Sunday, it was hot. Well today, it might simmer down but ah don't t'ink so. Race
course short, small ones doing two laps in Admiralty Bay, big boys around to Whale
Cay an' back. Yo' notice ah say Whale Cay. De real name is Semple Cay but, fo' de
first time in ah long time, dem beach three whale dis year. So ah go' call it Whale
Cay. Anyway, it blowin' ah good breeze an' offwe go, downwind to West Cay. All boat
turn an' on de upwind leg. Den bam! Skyler break she sprit an' retire hurt. De cur
rent goin' southwest strong an' all boat tackin' on de shore except for Double Bluff
off course. She goin' out mid channel away from de mark before she tack. Ah wonder
who Bluffin' who? Dey turn de mark an' downwind again, Confusion an' Lightning at
it again an' so is Bequia Pride an' Double Bluff. Dem pair off fo' do battle on de
upwind leg. Dey getting' close to de finish an' Confusion coverin' Lightning, tack fo'
tack. Lightning beat Confusion on Saturday an' Sunday but not today. Confusion on
top all de way to de finish. As fo' Double Bluff, she beat out Bequia Pride fo' two days
but not today.
All boats on de north side now headin' fo'de finish. So ah decide fo' get on de com-
mittee boat, get ah cold one an' watch dem finish. Yes, Limbo cross de line beatin'
out Iron Duke. Next, Tornado beat out de Nerissa Js an' Shamu beat More Worries.
But ah ha' fo' wait ah bit longer because Devine way, way back. De man is 80 some
years old an' might be his last crossin' so ah ha' fo' give him ah three horn salute!
Ah very good regatta, well done everyone. We go' meet in Canouan at Whitsuntide.

Top left: Fighting to windward in Class 7

Below: Class 5A start on Easter Sundau


Above: A true classic -sleek, strong and fast

Right: Jason, the Genoa winch tender, enjoys a bath
in warm Antigua waters as the schooner drives into
building seas

'IWX O minutes to tack... ready the Number
Two Fisherman..." The 114-foot Bermuda staysail
schooner Aschanti IV is nearing a downwind mark
on the third day of races during this year's Antigua
Classic Yacht Regatta (ACYR), held April 15th
through 20th.
On the foredeck and amidships, just forward of the
mainmast, the crew of 16 red-shirted men led by two
white-shirted women -two of Aschanti's four perma
nent women crew -goes into action. The Genoa begins
to disappear on its headstay, the Number One Fisherman
comes rattling down, manhandled to the deck by a team
of three men with Thea, Aschanti's first mate, right in
the middle, her dark shoulder-length hair whipped by
the 18 knots of wind. Halyards are rigged to the smaller
Fisherman on the other side of the foremast, sheets are
led back to the lee winch, all is now set.
"Tacking..." comes the command, then a single loud
clang of the ship's bell rings out, the skipper's signal
to all that he is putting the helm down. "The bell is
better heard than any voice command," Aschanti's
skipper, Kalle, told me later. "We use the ship's bell for
a lot of maneuvers. The bow is a hundred feet away,
and the bell can be heard with more reliability than
voice or hand commands." Kalle or Karl Peter Ebner,
has been Aschantis skipper for ten years, driving this
100-foot-plus steel schooner during each of the

Antigua Classic Regattas during that time.
The schooner comes slowly around the mark. "It takes
time to tack her," Kalle admitted. "We have to roll in the
Yankee, take down one Fisherman, rig and raise anoth
er, then roll out the Yankee before we are on the new
course. We lose a minute or two each time we change
direction. That costs us, but on these longer courses, we
can gain lost time over the other boats. This schooner
was built to make fast runs on long tacks."
The staysails forward and midships and the main go
over naturally. Steph, the cook, who does double duty
as mainsheet tender, adjusts the set to the new tack.
The smaller Fisherman is raised, flapping and dancing
as it is hauled up the foremast, the sheets hauled in.
Meanwhile, the powerful Genny on the forestay is
unrolled, the sheets trimmed and the schooner settles
down on a windward course. The black-hulled schooner
lays over and the speed rises: eight, ten, 12 knots.
Jason, a professional skipper from Florida who had
joined Aschanti's volunteer crew the day before, is on
the jib sheet winch to leeward, buried shoulder-deep in
warm Caribbean sea water as Aschanti heels, pounding
into four-foot swells, her lee decks awash, spray flying.
Aschanti was built in 1954 in Bremen, Germany.
She's had a number of incarnations, with many of
today's experienced skippers serving aboard her as
crew, mechanic, hostess or cook over the past six
decades. The rig is that of a staysail schooner, with the
ability to fly a Fisherman staysail above her main stay
sail. There are three possible foresails, including the
Yankee, the Genoa and the staysail on a self tending
boom on the inner forestay. The slot between the head
stay and the first inner stay is too narrow for the
Genoa to be tacked or jibed. This large sail has to be
rolled in on the hydraulic furler and reset on the other
tack. The decks are teak, as is all the trim, expertly
varnished to a warm glow. The deckhouse aft is a
raised coach house with large windows, with a covered
"patio" that features an ample dining table with an
inlaid map of the world set in various woods. The
wheel and control station are aft of the dining area,
with a whale's tail made of laminated woods for the
helmsmen's seat. The interior is traditional paneled
mahogany with modest accommodations for a 114-foot
yacht. The owner's quarters feature a large sleeping
cabin and adjacent office/library and en-suite head,
all to starboard. To port are the captain's quarters.
Forward are the crew's mess, galley and crew's living
spaces. The after half of the yacht is devoted to
mechanical spaces.
But while the schooner is impressive to observe
underway, it is the crew that impresses me most.
Kalle's management style is quiet and reserved. He
never shouts. The large brass bell over the helm does
his talking for him. Peter Fried, owner of Aschanti for
the past eight years, has a hands-off approach, con
tent to confer with Kalle on racing tactics and sail
management, serving as the skipper's voice when
orders are passed to Celine and Thea who are running
the ship's wind engine forward: the five sails that need
constant tending.
-ontinued on next page

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Continuedfrom previous page
The crew during this ACYR included Kalle's four
regular, paid female staff: Cecile, Thea, Steph and
Ping, all dressed in white polo shirts. The all-male vol
unteer crew of 16 was made un of experienced sailors.

many of them skippers on their own boats. Five were
from Germany, sailors who had sailed with Kalle on
Aschanti before, but 11 of the crew, all dressed in red
polo shirts, were picked up off the dock the day before
the four-day series of races began.
My job, working on assignment, was to photograph
the race and find a story to write. While many interest
ing stories presented themselves, one stood out as
unique -it was Kalle, Aschanti, and her four-woman
crew, and how they jibed with the volunteer crew. The
four female crew showed the men they knew their
boat, her rig and how to sail her in a race. Their pro
fessionalism and focus was a joy to watch -and to
photograph. Thea, 30-ish and a former interior design
er from South Africa, has been on Aschanti for the past
two-and-a-half years and the First Mate for a year,
ever since Celine, from Avignon, France, relinquished
the job to travel around Europe. "I needed to do some
thing different," Celine says. "When Aschanti enters
one of these classic regattas, Kalle calls me back and
Thea and I share the deck work for the races."
These two women lead the 16 men more by example
than by instruction. The only voices that are raised are
those that need to be heard above the cacophony a
schooner makes as it plunges through the seas in 20
knots of wind. There are no arguments, but frequent
discussions as to procedures for rounding the next
mark. There are no egos on the part of the men, who
follow the young women's lead. Thea and Celine show
no uncertainly as to what needs to be done to get the
boat on a new tack, and for getting her back up to hull
speed as fast as possible. They rely on years of experi
ence in racing and moving this boat around the world.

"I knew it would be a challenge to manage this large
a crew of men," admitted Thea. "But it worked. We
were lucky with the volunteers we were able to find
walking the dock." Of course Aschanti, with her
impressive lineage of winning regattas in her class, her

Left: Skipper Kalle is
surrounded by his crew of
female sailors: hostess
Ping, chefStephanie,
Thea, Celine and a fiend
cut it up in front of
Aschanti, docked at
English Harbour

Right: Aschanti's bell,
which signals sail
changes and anchoring
procedures, and summons
crew aft for a meeting

gleaming brightwork, polished black topsides and tow
ering, varnished wood masts, is a Mecca for any sailor
knowledgeable about classic yachts.
A schooner this size, with large sails and heavy rig,
is a difficult boat to handle. The crew of 20 was barely
enough to sail her in the races, but Kalle took her out
by himself for the Thursday's Single Handed Race,
coming in second to Galatea, a slender 90 foot ketch
built in 1899, skippered by Judd Tintinus. "It's hard,
but it's easy," said Kalle. "We get away from land, give
the boat some room, then the crew raises the sails and
departs in the ship's tender. I'm left alone with one
other person for safey. There's a lot of running around
the decks," said Kalle, an agile 56 years old. "Even the
big J boats could be sailed singlehanded, once the
sails are up. They just think they need a crew of 50 on
"The next mark is a jibe... five minutes to the mark."
Stephanie hauls in the main sheet. Ping, the host
ess, releases the starboard running backstay and, as
the yacht passes through the wind, rushes to port and
sets up that backstay, then gets out of the way. Kalle
is steering, conferring with Peter, the owner. With
Thea and her crew working the Fisherman, and Cecile
and her crew amidships working the Genny sheets
and the other staysails, Aschanti rounds the mark and
settles in for another drive to windward. Aschanti car
ries a spinnaker, but there are penalties for using it
and the various legs of racecourse are too short to
make it practical to use.
Kalle's method of training his crew is practical. "We
sail this boat a lot. When the owner and his family are
aboard, we are sailing. When he's not, we are deliver

ing the boat to the Med, to the Caribbean, and this
spring, up to Maine for a generator replacement. None
of us have been to Maine before, and we hear it is the
place to go if you sail a schooner.
"The girls know the rig, the lines, the systems and
the procedures for setting and dousing the sails," con
tinues Kalle. "They could do it in the dark -and they
have. Besides, they all come from sailing families, as
did I, so sailing is in our blood. You might say, they
learned at someone else's expense." Stephanie, who
speaks like she's from California, is really from the
Azores. She has been on the schooner for three years,
working as hostess on Aschanti for a year, then mov
ing up to chef. "I can cook because I grew up helping
my mother cook." Ping, the present hostess, is the
daughter of one of Aschanti's former mates and engi
neers who served with Kalle years ago. A former fash
ion designer's rep in her native Melbourne, Australia,
she is a born people person. "When I finally give up
this globe-trotting yachting life, I'll move back to
Australia and work in sales or the service sector....
Kalle likes his all-female crew "there are no ego
clashes" -and the ladies like Kalle, who is part father,
older brother and mentor. And the girls also like
Aschanti, and who wouldn't. She's a true classic
sleek, strong and fast -and she wins races while
providing a level of comfort in elegant surroundings for
the owners and his family as well as for the crew.

Aschanti won first overall in Classic Class A with two
second places and two firsts. For complete Antigua Classic
Yacht Regatta 2010 results see Regatta News on page 20.



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Tracy Edwards may have started the trend of all-female yacht crews when she skip
pered the yacht Maiden in the 1989 Whitbread Around the World Race but Tracy's
crew had nothing on the Pink Ladies of the 2010 Antigua Classic Yacht Regatta.
Sporting pink bikinis,
pink skirts and, by the
end of the first day's
sailing, pink skins, the
Pink Ladies, sailing
their appropriately
pink-hulled Carriacou
sloop named the Pink
Lady, were the talk of
the regatta.
Skipper Kirsty
Morrison, a former
architect from London
with a long history of
sailing in all parts of
the world and now a
yacht skipper in the
Caribbean, related the
story of her desire to
race a pink Carriacou
sloop with an all-girl
crew in the Antigua
Classic Yacht Regatta.
The dream started
about three years ago
with little chance of
realization, but two
years ago, sailing past
Palm Island in the St.
Vincent Grenadines,
Kirsty spotted the impossible: a pink-hulled Carriacou sloop. It belonged to Robert
Barrett, owner of the Palm Island Resort and the St. James's Club in Antigua. Kirsty
spent two years pestering Robert to sell her the yacht without revealing her secret
motive. He wouldn't sell. Eventually, with six weeks to go before the 2010 Antigua
Classic Yacht Regatta, Kirsty told Robert of her dream and he immediately not only
agreed to lending her the boat but also to financing the whole project -on condition
she prepared the yacht for the regatta, no easy task. The Carriacou sloop required a
new engine, complete re-rigging, sails and myriad other repairs.
With only a few days to spare, Kirsty set sail for Antigua but had to turn back in
bad weather with a broken propeller shaft. On the second attempt the Pink Lady was
accompanied by a modern yacht, Bombay Sapphire. On board the Sunbeam 44 was
Jo Spinks from Scotland, on a date in St. Lucia with Allan McCashin, the skipper of
Bombay Sapphire. She was immediately acquired as Pink Lady crew despite her total
lack of sailing experience.
Lack of sailing experience did not seem to disqualify anyone from becoming a crew
member, as two of the ten Pink Ladies had no prior knowledge of sailing. In balance,
there were five experienced lady skippers on board. When asked if this caused a
conflict with Kirsty as skipper of Pink Lady, it was forcefully pointed out that ladies
did not suffer the testosterone problems men might have in the same situation.
Despite the fact that all bar one of the girls had never met before, Kirsty being the
common denominator, they seemed to gel as a team very quickly and soon gave each
other nicknames pertinent to their characters or physical attributes. Nicknames
were hand-written on the back of crew T shirts, the ink running into streaks in the
first shower of rain, adding to the Pink Ladies' style.
Some of the crew travelled a considerable distance to take part in the racing. Mei
Chung, otherwise known as "May Day" as a result of feeling seasick in anything more
than a flat calm, first met Kirsty in Hong Kong and flew in from New York to take
part. Nicknamed "Heinie", an American expression for a shapely behind, Jan Hein's
experience sailing in Carriacou sloops -she first sailed on her brother-in-law John
Smith's Mermaid 30 years ago -made her a very useful addition to the crew.

With no winches aboard Pink Lady, it takes three girls to hoist the sails. Jo Spinks,
nicknamed "Mama San" and also known as "Muscles", bounced the halyards at the
mast, assisted by Belinda Jones ("Killer Bee") with Jan Hein tailing. Even tougher
without winches is
sheeting in the jib. To
reduce the required
muscle power, the jib
sheets had been rigged
with a two to one pur
chase. Four toone was
considered, but the
amount of rope lying
around the deck would
Shave proved to be a
hazard. The solution
was to have two jib
trimmers and the jobs
fell to Marcy Finnas
("Psycho Betty") and
Mary Stoof ("Scary
Mary") with Sophie
Brain ("Sweet Lips")
tailing the sheets.
Christine Mattson
("Tipsy Gypsy') trimmed
the not inconsiderable
mainsail assisted by
Katherine Gilbert
("Baywatch Babe").
Skipper Kirsty ("Thirsty
Kirsty") helmed
A Classic contrast: Rebecca and Pink Lady throughout the regatta.
On the first race Pink
Lady was last to finish among the five boats in Traditional Class B, but her crew,
dressed only in their pink bikinis, crossed the line to loud applause and the sounds
of horns and guns fired from the Committee Boat. And on the second day, when Pink
Lady achieved a third place, there was much celebrating with, naturally enough,
pink champagne. Although Pink Lady brought up the rear of her class on Days 3 and
4, at prizegiving the Pink Ladies were awarded a bottle of "St. Barths Pink" rose for
being the regatta's "most attractive and most enthusiastic crew".
For more information on the Pink Ladies visit www.TeamPinkLady.com.

The Pink Ladies, left to right, front row: Christine Mattson, Sophie Brain,
Katherine Gilbert, Mary Stoof, Mei Chung, Marcy Finnas and Kirsty Morrison.
Back row, left to ight: Belinda Jones, Jan Hein and Jo Spink

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plunge, threw gifts to Neptune, and i vI
age at dawn on a Frida .
Off the north end of St Vincent we encountered
some of the worst seas I had ever seen in the
Caribbean. There were 20foot walls of water bearing
down on us with at least 30 knots of wind howling
by. Pink Lady took it well, but I was nervous as I
scanned the horizon and saw constantly grey skies
with no indication that this was a passing squall It
seemed like a (totally unforecast system that was set
to stay. After two hours of hammering I made the call
to turn back. I saw an even greater density of white
caps ahead; this was only going to get worse.
We limped into Cumberland Bay cold, wet and
despondent. The forecast, it seemed, was the same
for the next four days. A friend who had left ahead of
us said it was the worst he had seen that channel in
eight years of crossing it. It seemed we had paid for
leaving on a Friday and now I seriously doubted we
were going to find a window to get us to Antigua in
time for the Classics. I couldn't believe it was all fall
ir1 -1T1 E- _- 1, 1,,/

I just had to get my hands on her. After two years of
negotiations with Mr. Barrett, I finally received a call
begrudgingly telling me "you can take the boat" to
race in Antigua. The deal was that he would cover all
costs but I had to make it happen. I flew down to
Palm Island the next day to assess the situation and
begin the overwhelming task of getting this baby to
Antigua in a ridiculously short time. She had no
engine, rotten sails, her deck planking was split from
months of baking in the tropical sun with no saltwa
ter baths to keep them moist, the bilges were full,
and the rigging was frayed. The only things on board
were an anchor and a child-sized fender. I could
never bring myself to throw that little fender out and
it doubled as a perfect pillow on the delivery north!
We towed her down to Carriacou and hauled her

this little local boat go faster. He told me his philoso
phy of sail design: you had to balance the sails so
that you could let go of the tiller for enough time to
be able to have a smoke!
We gave the sail as much roach as we could, given
the fixed backstay, and added five battens fabricated
from PVC pipe. Two days later Mr. Barrett called and
said he was flying a new engine to St Vincent. He
cleared it through Customs in half a day and we had
it installed over the Easter weekend. Suddenly things
had changed; miracles do happen in the Caribbean.
One of my Pink Ladies, Christine Mattson, flew
down from Tortola and two of my favourite Bequia
boys, Noel and Iba, joined us for the delivery to
Antigua. We were not ready to leave on the Thursday
and Saturday was cutting it too short. So we took the

our nose out into the channel and see what it held. I
couldn't imagine that those seas would have lain
down in less than 12 hours, but at least we could go
and look.
The crew fell silent as we came out of the lee and
into the channel, waiting for the seas to build and the
dream to be over. But nothing happened. The seas
were flat; we couldn't believe it was the same water.
"Temperamental thing, the sea," Chris muttered.
"About as temperamental as a menopausal woman,"
I replied and we both laughed in relief.
Itwas so calm that we decided to crank up the engine.
I turned the key, the engine started, I put her into gear,
no prop. I went from forward to neutral to reverse a few
times, and still nothing; the prop was not turning.
-ontinued on next page


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www. barefootyachts. com

Continued from previous page
I climbed down below and shimmied myself alongside the engine. Immediately our
problem glared at me; there was about a foot of air between the engine coupling and
the shaft -the shaft was no longer connected. There was enough breeze to sail so
we decided to keep going and see if we could fix it along the way. We found all four
bolts in the bilges, although one was sheared. We retrieved the nuts and managed
to put the coupling back together. Every hour we stopped the engine and tightened
the bolts. Then we noticed that the mountings were loose and misaligned and there
was a steady stream of water pouring out of the stuffing box. We limped in the cold,
dark, pouring rain into Rodney Bay, St. Lucia, and again wondered if our dream was
ever going to happen.

d /

We made it! Pink Lady in Antigua for Classics 2010 -a dream come true

A friend came and picked us up, cooked us dinner, gave us a hot shower and put
us to bed in 1000-count linen. In the morning I scoured the docks for friends and
family whom I knew were there. It was Sunday so I would have to rely on them to
scavenge the parts I needed. I found a new bolt for the coupling, two locking nuts
and two locking washers, thanks to my father's well-stocked Brewer 40, Lasgair. I
borrowed wrenches to keep the stuffing box tightened and two jerry jugs to fill with
diesel, as now our only option was to head straight up without stopping. By lunch
time we were off. A friend of mine, Allan, left with us on his Sunbeam 44, Bombay
Sapphire, and promised to shadow us in case of any more mishaps. This was our
saviour, as it meant we could sail straight through to Antigua and might still make
it in time to race.
Three humpback whales crossed our bow as we left Rodney Bay and
immediately the atmosphere changed. We really felt as if there was a
S chance we would make it.
We crossed the channel to Martinique in magnificent style -on a beam
reach, hitting eight knots more than once. Alick had done his job; we
hardly touched the tiller. A night passage to Dominica went without inci
dent until suddenly the headsail started to flog and I realized we had lost
our halyard. We motored into Portsmouth early that morning, wondering
how we were going to get someone up the mast on our winchless boat.
Then we realized we had a winch on board, as Noel hand-pulled Iba up
the mast and the halyard was re-threaded. After that it was "plain sailing"
only one more island to go.
We sailed with a gentle breeze that evening through the lee of
Guadeloupe. The sun was setting to the west and a rainsquall over the
land produced a glowing rainbow to the east, Chris and I stood on the
foredeck and didn't know which way to look. As I fantasized that this
moment really deserved a cold beer, Bombay Sapphire hailed us on the
VHF and announced they were coming alongside to deliver that very thing.
They had read our minds!
We raced across the final channel to Antigua that night. We dropped the
hook off Pigeon Beach at the mouth of Falmouth Harbor at 4:00AM
Tuesday morning, April 13th. We had hardly slept for two nights, had no
hot food, few cold drinks, used a bucket as a head and dozed on top of the
old mainsail. With no radar, only battery-operated running lights, a hand
held GPS and a headlamp taped above the compass, we had made it
against the odds. Exhausted but with adrenalin pumping, we drank rum
until dawn and slept the sleep of the dead until midday.
We took Pink Lady into the dock stern-to with an eager crowd of specta
tors, friends from near and far, waiting to greet us and buy us more rum.
But we had one final hurdle to cross before the races: clearing into
Antigua. The boat, having never left the Grenadines, was not registered. I
was nervous about how Customs and Immigration would deal with this.
They were so confused they didn't know how to react. They had never
come across this before, they said. After words with his boss, the officer
returned with our form and under "Registration number" wrote "00000".
Now we were official!
We checked into the swanky St James' Club, which Robert Barrett also
owns, and where, wonderfully, he was putting us all up. My crew flew in
over the next few days and by Friday we were ready to go racing.



Long life.


M rn en rs ww.*oIIF- l*

I_-An1 -tigua T GreI ada St. John St. foaT ,la

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Island Water World: Racing in the Southern Caribbean
Island Water World has joined the fast-growing Southern Caribbean J/24 fleet by
sponsoring Die Hard, the sole J/24 flying the Grenada flag. The regional fleet is 26 boats
strong, hailing from St. Lucia, St. Vincent, Bequia Barbados, Grenada and Trinidad.
Die Hard has become a regular fixture in the Southern Caribbean regattas, with
her presence strongly noted in the 2010 Southern Caribbean Sailing Circuit. In the
Carriacou Sailing Series she raced under the CSA Rule, being the only J/24 present.
She came second in the J/24 Class in the Grenada Sailing Festival and third in class
in the Tobago Carnival Regatta. She raced in the South Grenada Regatta, again
racing under the CSA Rule, to place first in class and first overall.
The Bequia Easter Regatta had a record-breaking 16 J/24s racing. Struggling a bit
with the light conditions. Team Island World managed a creditable sixth place, and
was also awarded the James McLean Memorial Shield in Tobago in recognition of
her contribution and efforts to regional yachting by participating in all the regattas
- despite the logistical issues and hardships associated with multiple crossings in
such a small boat.
As this issue of Compass goes to press. Die Hard is in Barbados where Team Island
Water World will continue to fly the IWW colors during her campaigns in the Mount
Gay Rum/Boatyard Regatta, the Barbados International J/24 Regatta, and the
Harris Paint and Lucky Horseshoe regattas.
In mid-July the team will sail her back home to Grenada Marine, who will prepare
her again for another full season of racing and inter-island crossings.

Oysters Shine in Oyster BVI Regatta
Barry Pickthall reports: In this year's Oyster BVI Regatta, Mariusz Koper's Polish Oyster
72, Katharsis II, and John McTigue's
Oyster 56C Blue Dreams produced
master-class performances to lead
their classes from start to finish in the
24-mile opening Lewmar-sponsored
race from Nanny Cay to Cane
Garden Bay on April 13th.
Mariusz's crew has been enjoying
Caribbean conditions ever since
competing in last winter's Atlantic
Rally for Cruisers, and the slick team-
work they have developed showed.
After electing to carry a spinnaker
TKatharsis II led the 23-strong fleet to
the finish and a Class I win.
In Class sII Blue Dreams stamped her authority on the fleet finishing ahead of David
and Tamsin Kidwell's Oyster 435s Twice Elevene with an Galbraiths Oyster 53o Jigsaw
taking third.
After a pirates beach party at Cane Garden Bay the fleet set out the next day on
a race to Virgin Gorda sponsored by Pelagos Yachts.
Samanttha Simmonds who cashed in her career as a London-based financial law
yer six weeks prior to the event to sail the seven seas aboard her 16-year-old Oyster
55 Ostrikla ended the day believing the wind gods were on her side. Stating in clear
air in Class II, Ostrika soon overhauled Twice Eleven and continued to carry the very
light breeze until Race Officer Alan Brook decided to put the rest of the fleet out of
their misery by shortening course.
Class I was led home by Chris and Susan Shea's Oyster 72, Magrathea followed by
Bill Dockser's Ravenous II and Stuart Smith and Barry Cooper's Oyster 82, Oceana.
Thursday was lay day followed by racing to Peter Island on the Friday. The regatta
ended back at Nanny Cay with the day's class winners in the Pantaenius Cup race
also securing the overall honours. The Sheas sailed a masterful race on Magrathea
and beat Class I rivals, Katharsis and Oceana, while Twice Eleven the oldest and
smallest yacht in the fleet, was victorious in Class II.

23rd Antigua Classic Yacht Regatta
Hosted by the Antigua Yacht Club and sponsored by Panerai the renowned
Antigua Classic acht Regatta attracts some of the world's most beautiful sailing
vessels. This year's regatta took place April 15th through 20th( with more than 50 vin
tage and classic boats.
The class winners were:
Classic Class A (CSA 5 Boats)
1) Aschanfi IV, Henry Gruber 105, Aschanti of Vegesack Ltd, BVI (6)
2) Juno Nat Benjamin 65R Robert Soros, USA (7)
3) Heronu John Alden Schooner 52 Bonnie Schmidt & Nigel Bower USA (11)
Classic Class B (CSA 5 Boats)
1) Lone Fox, Robert Clark 62, Ira H. Epstein, St. Barth (6)
2) Freya, Trygve Halvorsen 3810, John Corbett, St. Vincent & the Grenadines (10)
3) Saphaedra, K. Aage Nielsen 513, CSD Servicesd USA (12)
Classic Class C (CSA 3 Boats)
1) Old Bob Hartley 40F David Buller Antigua (4)
2) Rainbows Cornish Crabber 30 Peter Hutchinsone Antigua (8)
3) Usquaebach 38'M Tristam Greensmithd Antigua (16)
Classic GRP Class (CSA 7 Boats)
1) Sunshine Philip Rhodes 41, Famous Mauro, Antigua (7)
2) Pamela, Colin ArcherScott Sprague 379, Quentin ram, UK (11)
3) Ruffian, Francis Kinney 36, Martin Halpern, USA (14)
Spirit of Tradition Class A (CSA 3 Boats)
1) Velshed, Camper Nicholsons 139 Tarbat Investments Channel Islands (4)
2) Ranger, Starling Burgis/Olin Stephens 136, RSV Ltd, Cayman Islands (8)
3) Hanuman, Nicholson/Dykstra 137, Nostra Expeditions, Cayman Islands (16)
Spirit of Tradition Class B (CSA 4 Boats)
1) Rebecca, German Frers 139.7, Rebecca Associates, USA (4)
2) Windrose ofAmsterdam, Gerald Dykstra Schooner 133, Netherlands (9)
3) Gaia, Sean McMillan 100, Landfall Yachts, Lichtenstein (13)
Spirit of Tradition Class C (CSA 5 Boats)
1) Biwi Magic, 6 Meter Sloop, Geoffrey Pidduck, Antigua (8)
2) Taru, Chris Bowman 40, Chris Bowman, Australia (8)
3) White Wings, Joel White 76'4, Donald Tofias, USA (11)
Traditional Class A (CSA 5 Boats)
1) Genesis, Alwyn Enoe 40, Alexis Andrews, Antigua (5)
2) Margeto-O II, Cyril Compton 40, Cyril Compton, Grenada (11)
3) Beauty of Petite Martinique, Baldwin Deroche 47, Jeffrey Stevens,
St. Vincent & The Grenadines (12)

Traditional Class B (CSA 5 Boats)
1) Summer Cloud, Baldwin de Roche 39, Andrew Robinson, Antigua (5)
2) Alexander Hamilton, Ralph Harris 46, Raymond Linnington, Antigua (11)
3) Sweetheart, Zepherin McLaren 36, Giorgio Baroneini, Antigua (11)
Vintage Class A (CSA 4 Boats)
1) Sumurun, W. Fife 94, A. Robert Towbin, USA (5)
2) Mariella, Alfred Mylne 79, Carlo Falcone, Antigua (9)
3) Astor, W. Fife 111 74, Richard & Lani Straman, USA (12)
Vintage Class B (CSA 4 Boats)
1) Guiding Light, H.G. May/Berthon Boat Comp. 36.5, Roy Boughton, UK (6)
2) Lady Corinne David Hillyard 37, lain MacAlister UK (10)
3) Alert, Philip Rhodes 62'5, Eric Bijlsma, Netherlands (12)
The A & F Sails Trophy for the Best Performance of a Local Yacht went to the
recently restored Carriacou sloop. Summer Cloud, owned by Andrew Robinson of
Woodstock Boatbuilders, also a sponsor of the regatta. John Bertola of Superyachts
Supermodels donated a stunning half model Carriacou sloop trophy for the first
overall Traditional Class. The local party boat of the regatta. Old Bob, won the Tree
House Body Shop Trophy for the best-dressed crew. Lone Fox took the Nicholson
Yacht Charters Trophy for best charter boat. Rebecca picked up the Ann Wallis
White Trophy for the Largest Classic and the Antigua Sails Trophy for the Best Elapsed
Time in Spirit of Tradition Class.
There was an uproar of applause when the owner and crew of Galatea were called
up to receive the Spirit of the Regatta prize, and for the "Pink Ladies" who received a
special bottle of Rose de St. Barths. Peter Hutchinson and Rainbowwere awarded a
bottle of Old Bob Ale for competing in 20 out of 23 Classic Yacht Regattas.
The primo moment came at the end of the evening when longtime owner of the
beautiful William Fife ketch Sumurun, Robert Towbin, was awarded the Panerai
Trophy and the special edition Radiomir Panerai Timepiece.
This regatta kicked off the 2010 Panerai Classic Yachts Challenge, which includes
The British Classic Yacht Club Panerai Cowes Regatta in the UK and the Regates
Royales in Cannes, France.
For full results visit www. anfiguaclassics com.
See related stories on page 14 and 16.

Nerone Tops Farr Worlds 2010 in the DR
For the second time, the Caribbean hosted the Rolex Farr 40 World Championship,
this year raced April 21st through 24th from the Casa de Campo Marina in the
Dominican Republic. This series was decided on the final race of the final day, with
a huge spectator fleet close by. The third race of the day, and tenth of the series as
a whole, was sailed in a gusting, building breeze that at times caught the Farr 40
crews off-guard. Italian Massimo Mezzaroma's Nerone, the 2003 champion, ended
the day as champion. Guido Belgiorno-Nettis' Transfusion of Australia were beaten
at the very last, but certainly not disgraced. Third overall was previous three-time
champion, Jim Richardson's Barking Mad of the USA.
The next Rolex Farr 40 World Championship will be held in Australia in February 2011.
For full results visit www. farr40worlds, com.

Another Mighty Antigua Sailing Week
Louay Habib reports: Adrian Lee's Cookson 50, Lee Overlay Partners, has won the
2010 Antigua Sailing Week Ocean Series. For the second year running. Lee's interna-
tional crew beat Peter Harrison's Farr 114, Sojana, to claim the overall title for the
offshore series at Antigua Sailing Week 2010, April 24th through May 1st.
Lee Overlay Partners were first in the Guadeloupe race, third in the Round Antigua
Race and second in the Redonda Race, sailing more than 200 miles.
In Racing 1, the biggest boats in the fleet Titan, Tom and Dotty Hill's custom
SReichel/Pugh 75, and Niklas
Zennstrom's 72-foot Judel Vrolijk-
Sdesigned Ran engaged in a match-
race style battle on the two-mile-long
legs of the windward/leeward course.
Ran won her class and
Division A overall.
Sin Duda, the American Santa Cruz
52 helmed and owned by Chicago-
based Lindsey Duda and her 15-strong
team, took an overall win for Racing 2.
Marc Glimcher and his team on
/122 Catapultsecured an overall win
of Racing 3 by winning the final race,
beating Peter Peake and team on the extremely competitive Reichel Pugh 44

One of the closest fleets was Performance Cruising 2 where competition, particu-
larly amongst the local Caribbean contingent was extremely high. Three Antiguan
boats took the top three slots: Hugh Bailey's First 456s Hugo B in first place overall
Geoffrey Pidduck's modified Six Metre, Biwi Magic, in second place overall, and
Carlo Falcone's Caccia alla Volpe, just three points adrift, in third overall.
In Performance Cruising 12 Italian Marco Serafini and team on the FY61 Tyke
secured first place.
Five wins in a row for Robbie Ferron and team on Lagoon 410 Katzenellenbogen
secured first place in the Cruising Multihull Class.
The crew of Burt Keenan's Frers 26-year-old Custom 48, Acadia, included three
who sailed together in the 1979 Fastnet Race. They sailed an impeccable series, tak-
ing first in Cruising 2 Class and an overall win of Cruising Class. In Cruising 1, Steve
Kuhl's British Sunbeat V Jeanneau SO 49 team secured first place overall.
For full results visit www.sailingweek.com.

Brits Dominate Fireball Worlds in Barbados
Among 70 teams competing in the 2010 Fireball World Championships, teams from
Great Britain won the top three spots. The event for these two-man high-performance
dinghies was held off the Barbados Yacht Club in Carlisle Bay, Barbados, from April
24th through May 7th. Chips Howarth and Vyv Townend won for the second year run-
ning, followed by countrymen Matt Burge and Richard Wagstaff in second place,
and David Edwards and Simon Potts in third. Nine races were completed for this
year's championship, allowing the competitors to discard their worst two races from
the score sheet.
For full results visit www. fireball-worlds, com.

Second West Indies Regatta in St. Barths
Kirsty Morrison reports: For the second year now the West Indies Regatta in St. Barths,
an event for traditional Caribbean sailing vessels, was held over the first weekend of
May. This meant that the crews of six Carriacou sloops Tradition, Ocean Nomad,
Genesis, Sweetheart, Summer Cloud and Good Expectaiions plus the Nevis schoo-
ner Alexander Hamilton, picked up their weary bodies, barely recovered from
Antigua Sailing Week, and set sail overnight for the 80-mile passage to St. Barths.
Continued on next page

Continued from previous page
I sailed on Good Expectations, and having left a bit later than the rest, we sailed
through the night on a roaring beam reach, engineless, under the light of a full moon,
arriving on the Saturday morning only 20 minutes late for the start. We were wel-
comed into Gustavia by the rest of the fleet with conch horns blowing an appreci-
ation of our achievement for just being there. This is what this intimate little regatta is
about. Docked stern-to along "millionaire's row" courtesy of the Port of Gustavia, the
atmosphere is low key and a welcome break from the mayhem of Antigua.
In honor of the event, Tuey Connell's band flew in from New York to play that night
at Le Select. The following morning I had to physically peel the crew from their
bunks, and feed them beer and croissants in order to persuade them to change our
mainsail to the racing gaff. Once again we were late for the start! However we soon
caught up and were thankful for the extra canvas. The morning's race finished at
Colombie Beach, where we all rafted up for lunch courtesy of Maya's restaurant,
which consisted of
baguettes, dripping
Camembert, chunky
couple of bottles of
French vin.
The afternoon start
was downwind and
we hoisted our spin-
naker, rounded the
first mark, and gybed
the spinnaker flawless-
ly. It seemed the crew
had woken up. We
igsoon noticed every-
one else was headed
straight into port, hard
on the wind.
Apparently we had
only been notified of half of the course change! Our perfectly gybed spinnaker was
now redundant and in dropping it we lost the ground we had made up on
Summer Cloud.
That night Alexs Andrew, the regatta organizer and owner of Genesis put on a
slide show of his photos before the prizegiving at the dock. Everyone received
something except Genesis!
The Overall Winner was Summer Cloud, newly restored and captained by Andrew
Robinson of Woodstock Boatbuilders Antigua. Class winners were:
Competitive Class- Ocean Nomad, Captain Eli Fuller
Cruising Class Good Expectation, Captain Martin Dudley
Trading Class- Tradition, Captain Laurie Gumbs
Schooner Class Alexander Hamilton, Captain Ray Linnington
The following day half of the fleet (those with endless energy and lacking in com-
mitments) set sail to the Anguilla Regatta where the West Indian fleet had been
invited for the first time by Laurie Gumbs, regatta organier and new owner of
Tradition. It seems next year we will all have to block out a month for the rapidly
expanding West Indian workboat race series!
For more information visit www.westindiesregatta com.
Transatlantic Rally Sets Sail from Tortola
Perfect conditions greeted the start of World Cruising Club's transatlantic sailing
rally ARC Europe on May 5th as the fleet crossed the start line just off Nanny Cay
Marina, Tortola. World Cruising Club Director Andrew Bishop says, 'All our crews
have enjoyed a great stay here in Nanny Cay, and we're pleased to confirm our
commitment to this new home for the event and look forward to coming back
again next year.
With a steady ten- to 15-knot east-northeast breeze the downwind start made for
a colourful sight with cruising chutes flying. The first stage of the rally has some of the
best weather conditions on the Atlantic circuit" and forecasts for the passage to
Bermuda predicted some good sailing.
The ARC Europe route takes the yachts a total of some 3,625 miles eastwards across
the Atlantic Ocean from Tortola in the British Virgin Islands to their final destination of
Lagos in southern Portugal stopping in Bermuda and the i Azores along the way.
Also starting out for Bermuda was a contingent from St. Augustine, Florida, hosted
by the St. Augustine Yacht Club. These starters, Alma de Si and Fizz of Cowes, had
a similar distance to cover to reach Bermuda. where they would meet up with the
rest of the fleet before continuing their passage towards the Azores.
ARC Europe is open to cruising monohulls with a minimum length of 27 feet (8.23
metres) and cruising multihulls from 27 to 60 feet (8.23 to 18.29 metres) LOA. As the
Rally is open solely to cruising yachts, they may motor in calm periods; results are
calculated for each leg and fun prizes awarded.
For more information visit www.worldcruising com/arceurope.
Caribbean One-Design Keelboat Championships
The Caribbean One-Design Keelboat Championships will be held June 19th and
20th at Simpson Bay Lagoon, St. Maarten, organized by the St. Maarten Yacht
Club. The regatta, sailed in Lagoon Sailboat Rentals one-design fleet of identical Sun
Fast 20 boats, will be open to up to 14 teams of three or four persons per team.
Registration welcoming party and the skippers' briefing will be on June 18th at the
St. Maarten Yacht Club. The regatta will either be sailed in a two-pool format, which
will result in a final of a Gold Fleet and a Silver Fleet, or in a one-fleet rotation
of boats.
For more information contact director-bigboatsefies. com.
Champion Racers to Compete in HIHO 2010
Champion racers Willhelm Schurmann from Brazil and Californian Ernie Johnson will
join this year's Highland Spring HIHO, June 27th through July 3rd.
Schurmann, who won this windsurfing event in 2008, is the world's top-ranked
Formula windsurfer. He'll be competing on a Techno 2 with Neil Pryde V8 sails.
Johnson is a top US stand-up paddle racer whose list of victories includes the 2009
Battle of the Paddle. Stand-up paddle (SUP) is a new addition to HIHO.
Both athletes will be available for mini-clinics and to assist or advise racers in any
capacity throughout the event.
SUP racers will start and finish alongside the windsurfers, but will compete on differ-
ent courses through the British Virgin Islands. Courses will range between five and
ten miles, with one long downwind run through the Sir Francis Drake Channel. Racers
may compete in the 12'6" Starboard Cruiser class, 12'6" Open or Unlimited
Class. SUP competitors are expected from California, Hawaii, Florida, Puerto Rico,
the Virgin Islands and Antigua.
Accommodation for participants will be aboard a fleet of yachts from
The Moorings.
For more information visit www.go-hiho.com.

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14th Annual Compass Writers' Brunch:



There is such a thing as a free brunch! Compass Publishing Ltd.'s annual pre
Easter Writers' Brunch is our way of getting together with, and saying "thank you"
in person to, as many as possible of the past year's contributors who provide the
content that makes Caribbean Compass relevant, original and authentic. Cruising
author Beth Leonard says, "There's no better way to get the real low-down on what's
going on throughout the islands."
The Compass's content is generated by active cruisers, yacht racers and residents
sharing their adventures in, passion for, and concerns about 'The Caribbean's Sea
and Shore'. The annual Brunch held in Bequia honors those who made the effort
over the previous 12 months to put their thoughts down in words, record a special
event or adventure, or gather information about a particular place, and then send in
the result for publication so that their ideas and experiences can be shared with fel
low Compass readers throughout the region and the world.
On Thursday, April 1st, 36 of this year's "Compass characters" -recent contributors
and their guests -gathered in Bequia at 10:00AM at Mac's Pizzeria on the Admiralty
Bay waterfront. Joining the Compass Cockpit Crew Managing Director Tom Hopman,
Editor Sally Erdle, Production Manager Wilfred Dederer, Assistant Editor Elaine
Ollivierre, and Bookkeeper Debra Davis -as well as one of the events very first guest
speakers, yachtsman and former Prime Minister of St. Vincent & the Grenadines, Sir
James Mitchell, was a delightful group of writers. In alphabetical order:
Cruiser Mike Barnott, who wrote about the Carriacou Junior Sailing Club in Tyrrel
Bay in the July 2009 issue. Youth sailing is the future, so special thanks go to Mike
and all those who cover this sector.
Veteran book reviewer Bob Berlinghof, a former charter skipper, astute reader, writer
and rock 'n' roll guitarist, whose work appears in Compass as fast as he can read!
Cruiser and photographer Evelyn Drew, who wrote a lovely piece about the self
tacking foredeck dog aboard the Morejohn family's yacht, Hogfish Maximus, which
was published in our June 2009 issue.
Sean Fuller, skipper of the yacht Kaiso and member of the St. Lucia Yacht Club,
who helps keep us informed about races on that island. He has also advocated an
OECS cruising permit to make for easy cruising throughout the Windwards and
Leewards, an idea most cruisers would endorse.
Having recently crossed the Atlantic in his 35-foot ketch, Duncan Gray reported
on the flotilla of St. Lucia-based boats that gave this year's World ARC round-the
world yacht rally a rousing send-off from his adopted island.
Sailor and Carriacou and Trinidad resident Nan Hatch, whose poems, such as the
April issue's "Pirates", capture the essence of the Caribbean islands in a few well
chosen words.
Best known as an artist, Bequia resident Julie Lea's written portrait of pioneering
Caribbean yacht skipper Morris Nicholson appeared in June 2009's issue of
Compass, and Bob reviewed Richard Dey's newly published book about Morris in
this year's February issue.
Ruth Lund, who has been based in Trinidad for many years, wrote last year about
cruising up Venezuela's Manamo River. In these days, when so many former cruisers
have become "dirt-dwellers", we look forward to soon publishing her thoughts on
loving to live aboard.
Also at Brunch 2010 was cruiser John Lytle, whose poetry has examined gnarly
issues such as radio etiquette and cruising manners.
A former Compass cockpit crew and regatta reporter who has been so busy in
recent years working on the Bequia Easter Regatta's race committee that he last
attended the Brunch in 2005, Noel Mawer joined the 2010 Brunch bunch.
Compass prides itself on presenting readers with original material, and the creator
of our unique crossword puzzles and horoscopes was with us this year: Melinda
Parke. Melinda arrived in the Caribbean in the early '70s aboard the wooden cargo
vessel Ona Roy, and now divides her time between Bequia and Seattle.
Tugboat captain, marine surveyor and cruiser Frank Pearce, past Vice-Commodore
of the Antigua Yacht Club, has written about destinations, regattas and yachting
issues, and his most recent writings detailed the rebuilding of the aptly named
Carriacou sloop Tradition.
Peter Roren sailed to the Caribbean from Norway a quarter of a century ago aboard
the Colin Archer Fredag, and has made Bequia his home. His humorous writings have
often brightened the pages of Compass and we've got more on file to look forward to.
Our faithful regatta reporter from Carriacou is another tugboat captain and yacht
racer, Jerry Stewart from Tyrrel Bay Yacht Haulout.
We all love to read stories by visitors about destinations, but adding the insight of
a real insider is Amal Thomas, who loves to introduce visitors to his multi-island
homeland, St. Vincent & the Grenadines.
Compass is distributed from the Dominican Republic throughout the island chain
to Venezuela and beyond, and our individual island agents have the challenging task
every month of seeing to it that the Compass gets to all the best places where readers
can find it. And of course advertising sales on all the different islands are what keep
the Compass boat afloat. This year's Brunch was graced by our Antigua ad sales and
distribution agent, Lucy Tulloch. Lucy grew up sailing in Greece and has been in the
Caribbean for some 20 years. She's an environmental and regatta reporter, and
superb photographer.
Dr. Nathalie Ward wrote Compass's very first educational column about Caribbean
marine life, and has most recently written about the new humpback whale sanctuar
ies and how to identify whales you might see while sailing in the Eastern Caribbean.
Nathalie is the Director of the Eastern Caribbean Cetacean Network, and since 1990
she has served as marine mammal consultant for the United Nations Environment
Programme's Specially Protected Areas. Nathalie also wrote Blows Mon Blows, a his
tory of Bequia whaling.
This year's guest speaker was well-known cruising guide author Chris Doyle, an
enthusiastic columnist and a talented photographer whose words and pictures often
grace the Compass's pages. On page 26, see Chris's speech about changes he's wit
nessed in the Windward Islands' yachting scene since his arrival four decades ago.
After Chris's talk, convivial conversations continued over a bountiful brunch buffet
of chicken curry and Creole fish, not to mention drinks and dessert, prepared by
Judy Simmons and her excellent Mac's Pizzeria staff.
To those many contributors unable to attend this year, we thank you, too, for all
your talent and efforts -and we hope to see you at a future Compass Writers'
Brunch, always held on the Thursday before Easter.

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Phone: (58-281) 267-7412 Fax: (58-281) 2677-810 VHF Channel 71 Web page:
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When we re-enter the Boca de Monos after a sail up the Eastern Caribbean island
chain, our cat, Sammy, knows exactly when to climb out of the hole in which he has
hidden for our voyage. After the lumpy crosscurrents of the entrance, once inside the
calm waters, he pops up on deck and sniffs the air as we glide past yachts tucked
comfortably into Scotland Bay. He supervises the taking down of sails on our way to
the Customs dock and howls for something to eat once we are tied up. Yes, Sammy,
I know how you feel: this is Trinidad -where are the "doubles"?
As with many cruisers, Chaguaramas, Trinidad is "home from home" for my hus
band Niels and me, and sometimes it takes a trip away to appreciate what is on one's
own doorstep. Trinidad is unusual in that its appeal is very different from that of the
other Eastern Caribbean islands. With the influence of the Orinoco River's outflow,
no clear blue water creates a picture postcard scene. However, where we anchor our
liveaboard sailboat, Baraka, in Chaguaramas or near Harts Cut there are also no
giant cruise ships offloading guests like so many cattle for the "cattle dip" (go in
white, come out burnt pink). We don't get hounded by vendors trying to sell us goods
and services we don't want. In fact, we are not instantly marked out as tourist mon
eymaking targets, because that is not the focus here. You can be a "normal" person
interacting with local people in a natural way.
Those we meet are friendly, warm and genuine, with a great sense of humour. Bus
and taxi drivers are considerate and helpful -sometimes I feel like an ancient old
lady when they say, "Take your time, take your time". While looking for an X-ray
facility in Port of Spain, I was shepherded by two teenage girls for a distance of eight
blocks to where I needed to be. Once you get used to the way folk speak, you can
appreciate more fully the rich diversity that makes up the Trini experience. They
sensibly leave out extraneous words in a sort of shorthand English into which they
drop jewel-like expressions influenced by French and Spanish that capture exactly
the human condition.
Entertainment, sporting and social activities are not laid on specifically for the
foreign visitor. If you want to join the party, you are usually welcome to join in, but
it is very much a Trini event generated by a thriving, fun-loving, sporting, talented,
music-driven culture. This is very evident during Carnival season, but throughout
the year there is always something stimulating to do -enjoy a jazz evening, a the
atrical comedy, a steel pan concert, a dance presentation, a good movie, an art dis
play, a visit to the library or museum, a day at the horse races, or a first-class
cricket match.
Food and drink are most important here, to be discussed and savoured, so it is
just as well that they are more reasonably priced than almost anywhere else in the
Caribbean. If you stick to locally produced goods fresh seafood, fruit and veggies
from the market, jams, biscuits and tinned products from the supermarkets, rotis,
pies and pelau from street vendors you can live extremely well at low cost. If you
want more sophisticated fare, a wide range of imported goods is available and there
are classy restaurants and bars where you can spend a great evening. Basic things
like fresh water, diesel, propane, laundry service, telephone cards, internet con
nectivity and transport by bus or maxi taxi are available for a fraction of what is
charged elsewhere.
During the hurricane season the boatyards are full of people undertaking substan
tial boat projects. As they bustle from marina to boatyard to chandlery, there is a
keen sense of camaraderie, with cruisers sharing advice and equipment as they
tackle endless DIY lists. It is almost like having a big, boating "think tank". On the
radio net, in the bars, doing the laundry, at the potluck, clustered around the inter
net hotspot -it is amazing what you can learn from others who have been down the
same road as you. Somewhere among the hundreds of "yachties" and contractors
working on boats from all over the world, someone will share your woes, offer a solu
tion, or point you to a suitable supplier. As the boatyards, marinas and services are
all conveniently within 15 minutes walking distance or a VHF radio call of one
another, communicating and getting together is easy.
An added bonus is that this boating centre is situated right in the middle of the
Chaguaramas Development Authority's land, which is a conservation area. Sitting in
my cockpit I do not look at a string of huge, fancy hotels or a steady stream of char
ter vessels going in and out. The beauty of the tropical forest, filled with a startling
variety of birds, howler monkeys and butterflies, a collage of green leaves of all
shapes and sizes, is just a stone's throw away. You can take a break from boat work
and enjoy this eco-destination without spending a cent. For those willing to go fur
ther afield, there are hikes to waterfalls, trails up mountains and along beaches
where giant sea turtles lay their eggs.
Do I feel safe and at ease here? The answer is yes. I have often wandered around
Port of Spain in the daytime on my own, but I would take a companion when walking
in the forest. As in our hometown of Cape Town, South Africa, we take note of "no
go" areas and are careful at night. We are more alert and prepared when sailing
between islands than we used to be, but we don't feel we need a convoy or seek out
buddy boats. We sail to other destinations when we are ready to go. When we
crossed the Atlantic to visit strange and interesting places, we took responsibility for
ourselves and for our boat and while assistance in times of trouble is much appreci
ated, it is not expected.
The good in Trinidad far outweighs the bad and I am happy to be here.

Your bottom Is our concern

rh cufacao




Jotun M the BIM In seff WMthng only
Jotun u in life tinM

Joun MM the ULMT non
of efficiency and service life
Jotun cop1frefe for Aluminum vessels

Technical Infomatik and Deaer Inquirs:

Te.:+1 868 634 4144 or 1072
mail: c fun@echo-arirne.Co I
JOTUN is also available al all Trinidadian
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the course to Barbados took us around the top of vellous night for stargazing. Orion strode across the heav
tion to Christmas lunch, the day after tomorrow. How Martinique, and out into the Atlantic. We had barely got ens, bow in hand, with the faithful Sirius gambolling
have our dear friends, 4,000 miles away in England, man the fishing lines out when we passed through a pod of behind. Lying on the aft deck, I stared up into the sky, seek
aged to hand-deliver an invitation to us? And are they bottlenose dolphins, grazing the well-stocked shallows off ing for patterns, snatching a look at the star chart with a
planning on e-mailing the turkey and sprouts? Scott's Head. One large fellow, eight or nine feet long, torch, then letting my eyes readjust to the darkness and
Five minutes later, after a rather emotional phone call, clearly had a bit of an itch, and surfed along on our bow trying to match the design on the paper with the bright real
breaking all rules on decorous behaviour in the Yacht wave, letting his side graze against our stem. Up a little ity above. Without light pollution, the smaller stars can be
Club, all is clear: after waving us off last July from our -a flick of his tail -sideways a bit -another flick -ahh seen, and finally the reason for some of the constellations'
home port on the river Deben in Suffolk, our friends had just there, perfect! names becomes apparent. Castor and Pollux, yes, there
quietly gone home and booked an apartment in Barbados Leaving the dolphins to their hunt, we turned to port, they are, hand in hand, and there, for the first time, I can
for Christmas -and spent six months hugging their heading through the Dominica Channel towards the north see the Big Dipper or Plough, with enough of its attendant
secret to themselves, and preparing the best surprise ever east corner of Martinique. The wind was in the southeast, stars to become a bear, sitting on its haunches. Personally,
for us. just a few degrees off the nose. Tomia is a solidly built, now its come into focus, I would have called it the Great
Which is why, 14 months later, my husband Anthony 19-year-old Oyster 435, weighing some 14 tonnes before Frog, but that's a matter of taste.
-ontinued on next page


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Facing page: Clear water and white sands in Carlisle Bay

Above: St. Nicholas Abbey, one of the oldest plantation houses in
the Caribbean

Below: The steam-driven sugarcane press at St. Nicholas Abbey

-ontinued from previous page
Round about midnight, the wind strengthened and
moved into the northeast, as forecast, and from then
on, despite the strong current (between one and two
knots) against us, we romped along under full sail.
Once out into the Atlantic, the big ocean swells took
over from the coastal chop and gave us a gentle pas
sage, with only the occasional rogue wave splashing
over the deck.
Barbados is certainly different from the other
Caribbean islands, with very few yacht facilities. The
only marina, at Port St. Charles, is strictly for berth
owners, though you can go alongside the fuel jetty for
both diesel and water (at US251 a gallon, well worth it
for a wash-down after the long passage). It is a good

place for checking in and out though, as the
other option, in Carlisle Bay, either means
manoeuvring in the busy deep-water commer
cial port, or a long hot walk from the dinghy
dock. The good thing about the lack of chan
dleries, yards and marinas, is that you can,
just for once, spend your money on other
things... no, lets be realistic: we save our
money against the boats next demands.
Barbados seems to have two populations:
squillionaires and the rest of us. With its fabu
lous white sandy beaches, it embraced tourism
enthusiastically many years ago, and made a
name for itself with gated communities and golf
clubs like Sandy Lane, as well as browsing in
the chic-est shops this side of St. Barts.
Practically the whole of the beautiful west coast
is hidden from the land by exclusive resorts
but as the beaches are all public, you just need
to find one of the signed access points, and
then you too can dabble your toes in white
sand and the clearest of vibrant blue seas.
You don't need to be a rock star or a dis
graced golf idol to feel at home in Barbados;
the locals are as friendly and easy as on any
other island, and, once you've tuned into the
thick Bajan accent, chatty and open -and
cricket-mad. There are plenty of shops, fruit
stalls and cheap snackettes for those of us on
a normal yachtie budget. The flying fish sand
wich is the Bajan national dish (yes, they do
take the wings off first) and delicious, whether
you buy it from the side of the road for BB$3,
or pay US$18 in an air-conditioned restau
Just a short distance up from the coast and
its ritzy developments, you're up into the fresh
and rolling sugarcane-clad hills of rural
Barbados, a world away from the angst of
choosing between Lanvin and Chanel in the
snazzy boutiques. We took a bus from
Bridgetown to visit St. Nicholas Abbey, one of
the oldest and most elegant buildings in the
Caribbean, where they are reviving the manu
facture of rum from their own cane. The house,
dating from the 17th century, is beautifully
preserved, and a video from the home movies of
one of the house's owners gives an engaging
insight into the workings of a sugar plantation
in the 1930s. A short walk from the house,
along a shady avenue of mahogany trees, is
Cherry Tree Hill, with fabulous views down to
the surf pounding in on the east coast.
Another sight unlike any you'll find on the
other islands is Harrison's Cave, near the lovely ravine
walk of Welchman Hall Gully, and the Flower Forest
botanical garden. An awe-inspiring set of underground
caverns, complete with stalactites and stalagmites,
towering aggregations of limestone, built up drip by
drip over millennia. Sadly, you can't explore freely on
foot, but are driven round on a little electric train.
Quite apart from the sights and the lovely interior,
there is the pleasure of a stop in Carlisle Bay, just
south of Bridgetown. The snorkelling is good on a
couple of wrecks in the centre of the bay, and the beach
is a pure pinky-white sand, as fine as icing sugar. The
water, as on the rest of the west coast, is that almost
luminous cerulean hlue that vyo think has been faked

when you see it in a tourist brochure. It is so clear that
we could still see the bottom by the light of the full
moon, together with the surreal sight of a moonlit turtle
swimming placidly along, 15 feet down.
There is plenty of entertainment in Carlisle Bay. The
simple bars on the beach provide rum, good local food
and fine company. At weekends, though, you might
want to anchor towards the south of the bay, as one
bar goes all out with a thumping disco until three or
four in the morning. Landing a dinghy on the beach
can be tricky (the obvious jetty at the north end of the
bay belongs to the Boat Yard, which charges US$10 per
person per day to use the dock; and the pier at the
southern end is condemned), but if you take your time
and judge the swell right, and don't mind getting a bit
wet, it's fine. On our first visit here, we discovered the
purpose of that neat, waterproof mobile phone cover
sitting unused on the saloon table.
Visiting Bridgetown for shopping or to pick up a bus
to explore the island is easy, with several places to dock
a dinghy in the Carenage, just at the north end of
Carlisle Bay. If you're used to the rollicking private
minibuses of the other islands, you may find Barbados's
buses a bit sedate, but the system is excellent and, at
BB$1.50 to anywhere on the island, very good value.
Each bus stop is painted in white and the blue and yel
low of the national flag -and each is identified by a
different girl's name. Who gets to choose them, we won
Each time we leave an island we wish we could have
spent longer there, and Barbados was no exception.
But we had a lovely broad reach down to Grenada to
look forward to. One of the really good things about
taking the trouble to sail to Barbados -you're practi
cally guaranteed a cracking sail back.

Below: Every Bajan bus stop has a name
this nno is rcll1d ar-

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by Chris Doyle

I sailed from England to the Eastern Caribbean in 1969 in a 30-foot Colin Archer,
hung out in Grenada, built a house there and became a resident. The days of the
topsail schooners had just passed, but we were still in the days of the motor-sailing
schooners, and most island fishing boats and cargo sloops operated under sail with
out auxiliary power. When sailing up to Carriacou in the early morning and passing
the town of Gouyave, it was a pleasure to watch a fleet of about 20 little double
ended fishing boats with brown sails darting off to the fishing grounds.
There were not too many yachts here in those days. In St. George's Lagoon,
Grenada had a brand-new marina called Grenada Yacht Services, home to a fleet of
about 20 independent, mostly wooden, crewed charter yachts, 60 to 80 feet long.
There were also a few independent bareboats in Grenada. St. Vincent had recently
got one of the first bareboat fleets, Caribbean Sailing Yachts, better known as CSY.
They had 20 Carib Whitney 41s sailing out of Blue Lagoon. There was a crewed
charter base at English Harbour in Antigua, and that was about it.
From a cruiser's perspective, the islands were in many ways idyllic. There were not
many cruisers, and we all pretty much knew each other. The Tobago Cays were
pristine, and if you saw as many as a dozen boats anchored there, it was worth a
comment. The Grenadines were quaint; most had no electricity or cars, and people
lived in small wooden or wattle-and-daub houses. The waters all around were teem
ing with fish, lobster and conch. It was hard to go hungry. One afternoon I was in
the Tobago Cays with Jeff Fisher. We were delivering Rustler ofArne, a 31-foot bare
boat I had bought, to St. Vincent. By some extraordinary lack of foresight on my part,
we had brought no food. I looked around and found a giant fishhook and a broom

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handle. I straightened the hook and lashed it to the broom handle and in a short
while speared a big parrotfish. It was that easy (and legal) in those days.
In Bequia you could watch hens and chicks pecking their way in and out of the
streets of Port Elizabeth. If you wanted bread, you would talk to the old lady with the
oil drum oven down near where Tommy Cantina is today. You would put your order
in in the morning and come collect your bread in the afternoon.
From a cruising perspective, the main downside was that not much in the way of

Cruising guide author Chris Doyle (at left) gave this speech to an appreciative crowd
(above) at this year's Compass Writers' Brunch

gear or spares was available. In any waterfront bar you would run into skippers
who had become stuck, sometimes for months, waiting for some necessary boat
part to arrive from overseas. The rest of the world seemed much farther away. TV
had not yet made an impact. Cable & Wireless had a monopoly and their phone
rates were horrendous.
It was also quite apparent in those days, that for many locals, life was no bed of
roses. On the big islands, many houses did not have running water, let alone elec
tricity. There was often a standpipe in the village, and water would have to be col
lected in buckets or jugs. In the Grenadines, people had developed a system of rain
catchments and cisterns over the years, so they were a little better off.
Worse than lack of infrastructure, I think, was the lack of opportunity and options.
To give an example: I used to like to visit Canouan; the water was beautiful and the
island was lovely with rolling hills, just a few little wooden houses, and a very small
village. You would occasionally meet adults there who had never been outside the
Grenadines. One thing I noticed was how quiet and well behaved the children were,
unlike the kids I was used to back in the UK, or even those in Grenada. One day
some friends of mine, who had children, were leaving Grenada for good and won
dered what to do with several boxes full of toys. I suggested that I could take them
to the kids on Canouan. I handed them over to some kids on the dock beside the old
fish house. The kids started shouting and fighting over the toys, and the fight was
still going when I came back on my next visit. I concluded that what seemed like
good behavior was really a lack of anything to fight over.
It was during those early days I met Sally Erdle. Bill Stevens, who used to own a
small chandlery and dock in Grenada, started Stevens Yachts with a fleet of both
skippered yachts and bareboats, and both Sally and I were working on these. Sally
was also getting involved in a golden deal on an old steel sloop, and, in her spare
time, drawing cartoons.
Over the next few years you could see that yachting was beginning to have an
economic impact; local people were finding things to do to help, entertain and sell
to yachting visitors.
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ontinued from previous page
In the evolution of Bequia endeavours, an early form of enterprise was the sere
nading boats. You could not anchor without a bunch of kids rowing alongside and
singing, while banging on something metal and playing a guitar. Some were quite
good, but unfortunately, the most excruciating groups did the best because the
charter skippers would pay them to go away before the end of the first tune.
CSY was providing jobs, both for skippers and at support services ashore. And the
new yachting visitors, particularly the bareboaters, did need things. I knew that
because they kept asking me "where can I... (fill in the blank)?" It was at this time
that I jumped on the bandwagon of those finding employment servicing the yachting
trade. Since I could not sing, I decided, with absolutely no previous expertise or
experience, to write a cruising guide so yachting visitors could read about what was
ashore and stop asking me. In those days it was a very low-budget endeavour,
partly because I thought everyone was as broke as I was, so that to be successful a
book would have to sell for US$5, and partly because I was also broke, so there was
no way I could have gotten the funds together to print a glossy book. The first edition
of Sailors Guide to the Windward Islands was black and white but it was not lacking
in unique illustrations: Sally became the official illustrator and cartoonist. When the
books arrived from the printer, I windsurfed around harbors with a backpack full
and sold them. This was in 1980.
I wrote the guide as a fun project, and like many fun projects it had unintended
consequences. The first was that after quite a few years, when it finally dawned on
me I did not have to stick to the five-dollar price tag, my book actually began to sup
port me instead of the other way round. The second was even more gratifying. Quite
a few local people let me know what I was doing was really helping them; unwit
tingly, I had become a somewhat useful cog in the economy.
Yachting tourism continued to grow. It got a big boost when the French govern
ment started a program of "defiscalisation", which basically meant that instead of
paying taxes, a French national could buy a French yacht and put it on charter in
the French Caribbean. This helped France overtake the USA as manufacturers of
yachts, and it resulted in big charter companies pouring into the French islands.
At the end of the 1980s, my illustrator and cartoonist took off with a good-looking
sailor called Tall Tom to sail around the world on a Rhodes 41. During their circum-
navigation, Sally worked for a year in New Zealand helping put together the month
ly "Shoreline" supplement for the Northern Advocate newspaper, so it was no sur
prise to me that when she and Tom returned to Bequia in 1994, they started
Caribbean Compass. I was delighted to become one of their writers.
Almost immediately, Caribbean Compass became an absolutely vital part of the
yachting industry. My books had been successful in connecting visiting yachtspeople
with local businesses. Compass went a step further: being a monthly paper, it could
keep people in touch with the changes that were happening all the time around the
waterfront, and it has created a medium in which yachting issues and relationships
between the yachts, locals and governments can be addressed. From the beginning,
the stories were always interesting, and everyone would dash to grab their Compass.
Readers' letters were an instant success -for the first time, there was regular feed
back from the cruisers themselves.
Caribbean Compass has been an excellent forum for publicizing problems, and
even sometimes getting something done about them. My one amazing success in this
respect concerned an environmental story about the Tobago Cays. I had noticed with
some distress that some Union Islanders, camped on Baradel, had let a lot of goats
graze free there. The goats did a good job of getting rid of the underbrush, which was
convenient for getting around the island, but at the same time rain was rapidly
washing away the unprotected ground and you could begin to see bad erosion gullies
forming. I wrote a little article and published three pictures: one of the damage on
Baradel; one of Jamesby which had no goats, showing the difference; and a third of
Ile Forchue off St. Barts, which showed the end result of over-goating: a moonlike
barren surface of giant gullies. To my amazement, two days after that issue of
Caribbean Compass was out, the St. Vincent & the Grenadines Fisheries Department
sent people down to the Tobago Cays and arranged for the goats to be removed.
I also have had failures, although I am not sure you can count anything as a
failure till you finally give up on it. One of these is trying to get the Eastern
Caribbean's national governments to rationalize and streamline their Customs pro
cedures for yachts. I have written many articles about this, but rarely have they had
much effect.
The Caribbean today is obviously a very different place from when I arrived. On the
one hand the environment, especially the marine environment, has taken a severe

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beating. Most of the reefs are in terrible shape, and there is nothing like the abundance
of fish, lobster and conch we saw in the early '70s. This is likely a combined effect of
overfishing, pollution and climate change. The creation of marine parks, which we now
have throughout the Caribbean, seems to be the best method to try to stave off further
rapid degradation and to keep some areas where Nature is at least given a chance.
On the other hand, the standard of living is far higher. Most homes now have run
ning water and electricity, and the standard of housing has gone up so much that it
seems to me we are on the way to a day when everyone will live in a mansion -even
if the islands are thereby made less attractive and there is not much room for trees
in between. Most importantly for everyone, there is far more opportunity, many more
possibilities, both to become well educated and to make a living.

'When I arrived... we were still in the days of motor-sailing schooners.
The Caribbean today is a very different place'

An essential to such progress is communication. It is hard to imagine how we
would manage if FedEx and DHL pulled out and we were back to waiting for months
for anything we needed from overseas.
It seems to me that open communication of ideas is nearly always good. When
cruisers first started organizing cruisers' radio nets, I was deeply suspicious. It
seemed to me it would deepen an us-versusthem attitude, hunkering cruisers down
into their own little clique. Happily, I was wrong. The nets spread ideas and oppor
tunities. In Grenada recently, on the cruisers' VHF net I heard about a cruiser who
had come across a group helping kids with reading problems. One thing led to
another, and now every week a busload of cruisers heads up into the hills to give
reading practice to local kids. When Cheryl Johnson from the bookshop in Bequia
told me that she had a similar reading program, my first thought was, "What we need
is a Bequia cruisers' net, so we can get more people involved!"
The internet, just a couple of decades old, is a great example of the power of
democratic communication. Marinas and anchorages now boast WiFi, and the inter
net keeps cruisers and locals alike in touch with information from all over the world.
One of the things I am interested in is genetics. Just the other day I read that sci
entists have found that Gene P21 is responsible for switching off a cell's ability to
re-grow things, and theoretically this gene could be disabled and allow humans to
re-grow damaged parts the way a lizard re-grows a lost tail. I don't know which is
more amazing, that we may soon be doing this, or that I was sitting on my boat off
Pigeon Island in St. Lucia reading about it on the web, something totally unimagi
nable 40 years ago.
Caribbean Compass, as a means of allowing cruisers to communicate in a public
way, has aided in the growth of the yachting industry, and the yachting industry has
well proved its worth. This is very obvious in small islands like Bequia, but this last
year it has become really obvious in many larger islands, because even during the
recent economic turndown, yachting has actually expanded in many places in the
Caribbean. Yachts have adopted new inventions just as fast as any other industry
and as a result it takes more and more highly trained people to build, maintain,
service and repair them. As a result there are, and will be, more and more opportu
nities in the yachting industry. So, as participants in Caribbean Compass, thanks to
all of you for being part of it.

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A Hike with History

Fedon's Camp

by Devi Sharp

Kick off your flip-flops and put on your sneakers
it's time to take another hike in Grenada. This hike will
take you to Fedon's Camp in the Grand Etang Reserve
in the central portion of the island.
Julien Fedon was a mulatto plantation owner who
led a slave uprising which lasted from March 1795
through June 1796. Fedon and his troops controlled
all of Grenada except the parish of St George's, the
seat of government. During those months 14,000 of
Grenada's 28,000 slaves joined the revolutionary

Fedon's Camp trail
forces, in order to write their own emancipation and
transform themselves into "citizens"; some 7,000 of
these self-liberated slaves perished in the name of
freedom. The British spent almost a year retaking the
island and capturing the revolt's ringleaders, who were
executed or exiled to Honduras. Fedon himself was
never taken, and is believed to have escaped, or else
drowned while attempting to reach Trinidad, Venezuela
or Cuba (depending upon the report you read). During
the rebellion, Fedon held the English Colonial Governor,
Ninian Home, captive in the Grand Etang Mountains
at a camp now known as Fedon's Camp. It was anoth
er 42 years before slavery was abolished in Grenada.
There are two approaches to Fedon's Camp; you can
take a turnoff from the hiking trail to Concord and
Fontainbleu Falls (see the March, 2009 Compass for
instructions for that hike), or start from the north end
at the village of Morne Longue. We chose the Morne
Longue access because the turnoff from the Fontainbleu
Falls trail is not marked and starting at the Morne
Longue would take us on a new trail. We took a taxi to
Morne Longue to avoid walking the two miles on the
road from the village of Birch Grove, where the bus

would let you off, to Morne Longue where you start the
hike. The taxi let us out at the end of the pavement
uphill from the last houses in Morne Longue (see the
sidebar for exact details of the route).
The trail from Morne Longue to Fedon's camp was
not passable after Hurricane Ivan in 2004. In 2009 the
trail was restored and improved using funds from the
United Nations Trust Fund for Human Security with
the intent of providing the local population with a
means of income: leading tourists up the trail and
providing information on the history of
Grenada. The restoration of the trail was
completed in April 2009.
The hike starts in vegetable garden
plots, stands of banana, citrus and nut
meg trees and makes a rapid ascent into
montane forest where tree ferns provide
the canopy for lush ferns, mosses and
smaller trees that are thickly covered with
epiphytes. This stretch of the trail is in
excellent condition with steps and hand
rails. About halfway up the trail to Fedon's
Camp (about 30 minutes), after a steep
pitch, there is a rest point with a swinging
seat hanging from a tree limb. The sur
rounding trees and shrubs had been cut
back to give us a great view of the land to
the north and east looking back over the
route we had already climbed.
After about an hour of hiking we reached
the cleared top of a knob on the ridge with
a concrete marker that indicated the loca
tion of Fedon's Camp. We thought the site
was a bit exposed for a camp, but who is to argue with
the concrete marker? The trees had been cleared and I
am sure the view would have been great if it had not
been a cloudy day. From the concrete marker the trail
continues on the southwest side of the clearing. This
stretch of the trail is not as well maintained as the first
part. It had not rained for a few days so the trail was
dry, but a recent rain would surely make for a slippery
descent on the clay trail. A walking stick can be very
helpful in this situation. We reached the junction with
the trail from Mt. Qua Qua to Concord Falls and imme-
diately recognized the turnoff from our recent hike to
Fontainbleu Falls from the Mt. Qua Qua trail.
We followed the trail and at the junction with the
Concord Falls trail we made the left turn to Fontainbleu
Falls for a refreshing swim. The walk to Concord Falls
was as delightful as always and we showed our guests
cocoa pods and nutmegs and looked longingly at the
fresh lettuce and oranges. We ate our picnic lunch
near Concord Falls and got to the road at about
:00PM, which is not too early to have a cold Carib
while waiting for the bus to St. George's.
Devi Sharp is a retired wildlife biologist and is explor
ing the Caribbean with her husband, Hunter, on their
sailboat Arctic Tern.




The entire distance of the hike is about six
miles and will take about four to six hours
depending on your pace. You end the walk in
the village of Concord on the central western
coast of Grenada, which is about a 20-minute
bus ride back to the capital, St. George's.
To get to Morne Longue you can take the
Number 6 bus, which runs from St. George's
bus station to the town of Grenville, and get
out at Birch Grove and walk the two miles to
Morne Longue, or take a taxi to Morne Longue
and have the taxi let you out at the end of the
pavement uphill from the last houses in
Morne Longue.
At the end of the road the dirt road/track
forks; the trail starts from the right fork, which
is the lesser-used track.
Follow the trail to a cleared top of a knob on
the ridge with a concrete marker for the location
of Fedon's Camp.
The trail to Mt. Qua Qua or to Concord Falls
departs from the southwest side of the clear
ing, heading in the general direction of
Mt. Qua Qua.
This section of trail is more overgrown with
vegetation and does not have steps cut in the
steep sections. The trail continues along the
ridge top for about 15 minutes and drops off the
ridge on the west side and starts a steep
descent, until you intersect the Concord Falls
trail in another 15 minutes.
At this point you can go uphill to the left or
southeast, or turn right to the northwest to
Concord and Fontainbleu Falls. The directions
below take you to Fontainbleu Falls.


4 f


The creek bed gathers more water and
Becomes an active creek that you will cross I
several times. You will reach a point where
Steps have been cut into a steep rock face. I
Descend the steps, then continue to follow the
Trail for a few minutes and you will be at a I
stream crossing.
S After the stream there will be a short, steep
climb and you will intersect the trail from
Concord Falls to Fontainbleu Falls.
Turn left to get to Fontainbleu Falls. The trail
will move into the riverbed and it takes about
Sten minutes to Fontainbleu Falls.
Reverse your track down the riverbed and con
tinue past the intersection that you came from
and on to Concord Falls.
It is 1.5 miles from Concord Falls to the village
of Concord, where you can catch a bus back to
I the St. George's bus station. I



Sandy Isle, off Paradise Beach, Carriacou, is a special Caribbean place. We
are aware that it once had so much more splendor, but that a summer
storm had robbed the island of beautiful mature palms. Even without these
mature palms, the island is part of iconic scenes, with the outrageous pro
file of Union Island and other Grenadines to the north, tall green Mabouya Island
close by to the west, the High North mountain of Carriacou to the east, and Paradise
Beach looking even better than its name to the south. We understand that the locals,
realizing what they have here, have planted the newer, immature palms; and that
just makes it more special to us.

by Laurie Corbett

Above: Paula, Dawn, Linda, Garry, Laurie and Brian from Canadian boats
Cat Tales, July Indian and Magique

Below: Garryfrom S/V July Indian meets the lone tortoise

The island has easy room for at least seven cruising boats to anchor, and at least
once per day, there are that many there. When we come here, we usually make
friends easily, talking them into a dinghy ride to Paradise Beach for some pizza at
"Off da Hook" or some other specialty at one of the other beach bars. Looking at
Sandy Isle from Paradise Beach makes one believe he is standing in one paradise
and looking at another.
The snorkeling around Sandy Isle is not too shabby either. Although you will not
see the abundance that one sees in the Tobago Cays, we were lucky to find our first
spotfin butterfly fishes, a large school of fairly mature houndfish, and quite a few
rock beauties. Every reef seems to have something new for us.
Saturday, April 17th found us anchored off Sandy Island aboard Cat Tales. We had
arrived three days earlier, and were happy to see old friends aboard Brian and Paula
on S/V Magique and Garry and Linda on S/V July Indian pull in a day or two later.
All of us had checked in at Hillsborough on our way to this spot, and all of us had
seen the notices at Customs and Immigration about an Earth Day cleanup of nearby
Tyrell Bay. As we just couldn't tear ourselves away from our own little paradise, we
determined to do our part without moving the boats.
With our usual impeccable timing, the six of us, with garbage bags, landed on the
beach at just about the hottest hour of the day. We made a line at the east end of the
island, and slowly advanced to the western tip. Six people, six full bags of plastic,
aluminum, and rubber, and the island is clean. We don't delude ourselves into think
ing we're saving the world; but maybe we brought some good karma to ourselves.
On a footnote, we had earlier befriended a rather lonely red-legged tortoise during
our stay at Sandy Isle. A young local man who was selling fish admitted to putting
the tortoise on the beach on a whim, and had promptly forgotten it. When we arrived
with our garbage bags, we brought a good bundle of carrots, cabbage, green pepper
and cucumber to deliver to him/her. After a quick search, we found the little tortoise
under some driftwood, doing its best to hide from the noonday sun. As we watched
him go at the food in earnest, we concluded that his lonely, hot, hungry existence on
Sandy Isle should come to an end. Garry and Linda took the tortoise over to a
swampy area of the mainland. It is their opinion that the tortoise seemed quite
excited as it scurried into the shady undergrowth. Whether it prospers with food and
friends or dies in a highway accident, we'll never know.
We thank Project AWARE and the local dive shops Carriacou Silver Diving and
Arawak Divers, the sponsors of the Earth Day event, for the inspiration and the bit
of exercise.


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Swage up to 16mm
Geor & Furlers in Stock All filings in lock
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Crossing the channels between Caribbean islands with a favorable tide will
make your passage faster and more comfortable. The table below, courtesy Don
Street, author of Streets Guides and compiler of Imray-Iolaire charts, which
shows the time of the meridian passage (or zenith) of the moon for this AND next
month, will help you calculate the tides.
Water, Don explains, generally tries to run toward the moon. The tide starts
running to the east soon after moonrise, continues to run east until about an
hour after the moon reaches its zenith (see TIME below) and then runs westward.
From just after the moon's setting to just after its nadir, the tide runs eastward;
and from just after its nadir to soon after its rising, the tide runs westward; i.e.
tide the floods from west to east. Times given are local.
Note: the maximum tide is 3 or 4 days after the new and full moons.
For more information, see "Tides and Currents" on the back of all Imray Iolaire
charts. Fair tides!


1201 (new)

0000 (full)


1146 (new)
0000 (full)

A Cruiser's Day in Class

by Ellen Birrell

"When this old Rastafarian woman is gone, I want you to remember these things:
Reading is important. In order to pass tests in school, you must be able to read, read
the questions, understand what is being asked. We read and discuss these stories
because it is important that you understand what you are reading." Cheryl Johnson
set the tone for the Saturday afternoon children's reading club in Bequia. She asked
the children to raise their hand if they had secured a library membership: "This is
not your school library. I want to see who has gone to our library (she points up the
hill) and obtained their own library card." Of the 50 children assembled, several
raised their hands. Her humor, vitality, dedication to books and reading, and caring
for the children were evident in every gesture. At Cheryl's urging, I -a visiting
cruiser -was there to support her and the children. It turned into much more than
that. It was a day for me to learn and grow.
Since November 19, 2006, Cheryl, who works at the Bequia Bookstore and owns
the adjacent Sweetie Bird Garden Cafe, has hosted a reading program for local chil
dren. She calls on volunteers, young women like Abigail and Zalika, and adults like
Mary whose first-grade grandson, Cameron, participates. Visiting sailors, both adult
volunteers and young readers, also get into the act. "I really like it when the children
from visiting yachts participate," Cheryl says.
On April 24th, there was an international orchestra of support: a young German
couple; locals Zalika, Charlotte and Mary; and cruisers such as myself and
Elizabeth, with her twin eleven-year-olds, Wesley and Claire, and their friend Soft,
a Bequia resident.

Bequia Reading
Club members
Sailing Days to

To start, Miss Johnson or "Miss J", as she is called by the children, divided the
kids into age groups at five wooden picnic tables painted lovely Caribbean colors:
lavender, lime, baby blue, salmon, yellow. The largest group of 15 was the nine to
ten-year-olds. This group was broken in half. Mary and I oversaw this table. Each
table was given an age-appropriate book. Ten-year-old Samantha authoritatively
and respectfully took charge. She knew the drill. She asked to read first and then
to be a presenter. Jamie, Jason and AJ, the only boys in our group, sat beside me
at the far end of the table. Our book was Sailing Days, the story of a Trinidadian
boy whose uncle is just teaching him to sail when his mother announces they are
moving to Switzerland. When it was time to select who would join Samantha for the
presentation, everyone (but Samantha) agreed it should be a boy. They thought it
should be big AJ but he firmly said no, several times. That left Jamie and Jason. I
thought I had best chances with convincing Jamie and had just taken a card game
out of my pack bribing: "If you present, I'll play this game with you afterwards."
Cheryl from the front, ever vigilant: "Oh, Ellen, you brought a game to share with
all of the children!"
After an hour of reading and discussion, it was time for presentations. "We're going
to wrap up our presentations early today because our guest instructor Ellen has a
game she is going to teach us!" Cheryl pointed my way. I squirmed in my seat won
dering how I was going to morph a game designed for two to six players to work for
a lively group of 50 youngsters. Two wooden benches were swung around. Smaller
children scrambled in. Samantha and Jamie, representing our table, were first. They
described the main characters and the story of Sailing Days. After 30 minutes, all
five tables had presented and Cheryl introduced me.
"Hello everyone! I need an assistant for this game. Jamie is going to be my helper."
Jamie proudly marched forward. "This is Quiddler. It is a deck of cards with one or
two letters on each card. The object of this game is to form words and acquire the
highest number of points. What do you see on this card?" I held an "I" card above
my head. "I!" "There is an I!" called out one child after another. Leaning forward,
extending the card closer to their attentive faces: "What else do you see on this
card?" Jetting back: "Another I!" "A colorful drawing of an I." "What else?" They
stared and stared continuing to describe the way the "I" looked. "What else?" I
repeated. Finally, Cameron proclaimed: "The number two!" Relieved, I continued:
"Yes, yes, this is a game of arithmetic as well as spelling. When you make your word,
use the letters that will create the highest score. We will deal three cards to each
table. At each table, come up with your best word. Some cards have two letters on
them (I held up the CL card). They are worth more. How much is this one?" "14!" a
child exclaims. "Oh, yes, does anyone know a word that includes CL?" Firing back:
"Clothes!" "Clay!". One of the boys in the front row said "Cry". We stopped for a
moment and talked about seeing and hearing the difference between CR and CL.
"We're going to start out with a hand of three cards. Make a word that consists of
at least two cards with the highest score you can." With guidance from the adults at
each table, the kids quickly caught on. By subsequent rounds of four and five-card
hands, the kids were pros. Cheryl really got into it and tallied each table's score for
each hand in chalk on the wall. After the final round of seven cards: "The lavender
team won with 94 points!" Cheryl effused. There was cheering and then trays of
sliced banana bread and juice were served.
As the session ended, no one could leave without a personal goodbye with Miss
Cheryl. "Wait a minute, you! I didn't get my hug and kiss!" Cheryl spotted the last
children still in the cafe. Like a symphony, the audience, musicians and conductor
mingled as one, leaving the event enriched and inspired.
Ellen Birrell is cruising the Caribbean aboard the Sun Odyssey 40 Boldly Go.



The Spice Necklace: My Adventures in Caribbean
Cooking, Eating, and Island Life, byAnn Vanderhoof
Houghton Mifflin Harcourt, 0 2009. Paperback, 460
pages. ISBN 978-0-618-685370.

Cruising without meeting local people is like going to a
party and spending your time alone in a comer: you can
do it, but you miss most of the fun. To develop relation
ships, it helps to have a common interest. Some cruisers
stow a guitar aboard, hoping to find local musicians to
jam with. Others have a volleyball or cricket bat stashed
away, and go ashore looking for a game.
Ann Vanderhoof is the founding editor of Cottage Life
magazine and a former contributor to the late, great
Gourmet, and her partner Steve Manley was a magazine
and book art director. Ann and Steve also wrote a popular
cruising guide to Canadian ports on the Great Lakes.
When they decided to leave Toronto and cruise the Antilles,
this couple found that their love of food was a natural
entree (pun intended) into Caribbean life. Everybody eats.
Ann writes: "...we quickly learned that food launched
conversations with strangers. 'How do I know when

this is ripe?' I'd ask, hefting, say, a breadfruit. 'And
how do you cook it for your family?' Or, pointing to a
bunch of mysterious leaves that looked and smelled
like thyme on steroids, What do you call these? And
what should I do with them?' Pleased by our interest,
people were invariably eager to help. And we were
encouraged by their warm response.
"We began poking our noses into kitchens on shore
too, whenever we had tasted wonderful island cooking.
And when my experiments in our own galley afterward
brought less than four-star reviews from the resident
food taster, we went back to those who'd helped us
and asked more questions. Food became our route
into island life, and strangers turned into friends."
Their boat is Receta, a 1980s-vintage Tartan 42. Ann
admits, "We called our sailboat Receta -the Spanish
word for 'recipe' reflecting our more-than-moderate
interest in food." Their dinghy is named Snack.
Do you think you need a huge kitchen, Sub-Zero
fridge, Wolf gourmet stove, dishwasher or even a
microwave to be a floating foodie? Nope. Receta has a
standard U-shaped galley to port at the foot of the
companionway steps, with a floor space about two feet
square. A cutting board that fits over half of the double
sink provides the main food-prep surface. There's a
fridge/freezer and a three-burner propane stove and
oven. (There's also a propane barbecue on the stern
rail.) Ann does most of the galley work by hand, with
the occasional help of a Cuisinart wand blender with a
small food-processor attachment.
But Receta's galley isn't the heart of this book. That
honor goes to Ann and Steve's exploits ashore, adven
tures in people and food. From searching for "self
spicing goats" (they feed on wild oregano) in the far
rural reaches of the Dominican Republic to learning
the secrets of professional chocolate tasters in Trinidad,
there's never an underfed moment. The tone of the
book is warm and friendly, and Ann doesn't worry too
much about being PC: she refers to rental cars as "the
shitbox du jour", admits to admiring young men's
"tightly muscled butts", and occasionally "outs" an
acquaintance's use of illegal herbs or avoidance of
Customs. She comes across as a regular Western
woman, albeit a food-obsessed one, alert, observant
and cruising in the real world.
Poking noses into other people's kitchens means pok
ing noses into other people's lives, too. While some
readers might wince ("Do these new friends know
they're being used as 'material'?"), most will appreciate
the intimacy. A restaurant-review tour this is not. Paul
Theroux wrote in the book Fresh Air Fiend "The job of
a travel writer is to go far and wide, making voluminous
notes, and tell the truth... A book has the capacity to
express a country's heart, as long as it stays away from
vacations, holidays, sightseeing, and the half-truths in
official handouts; as long as it concentrates on people
in their landscape, the dissonance as well as the melo

Author Ann offers treats from her galley and insights
from her new book

dies, the contradictions, and the vivid trivia...
The recipes given at the end of each chapter relate to
and embellish that chapter. If attempting to use The
Spice Necklace as a cookbook, however (and you will),
one drawback is that the recipes aren't indexed or
mentioned in the Table of Contents, so if you want to
whip up, say, those outrageous sounding Seafood
Stuffed Cocktail Bites for your next cockpit confab,
you'll have to hunt for the recipe as well as shop for
the shrimp. (Hint: It's at the end of Chapter 11, about
Christmas holidays in the southern islands.)
The Spice Necklace follows Ann's bestseller, An
Embarrassment of Mangoes, which was written about
their first Eastern Caribbean cruise. On their second
voyage to the islands, she says, "I'd already learned one
lesson: forget the canned asparagus and chunked
chicken. This time, our foodie bent would guide us from
the start. Since spices and herbs are the heart and soul
of Caribbean cooking, and the foundation of almost
every dish there, we would also start with the spices."
A spice necklace is a souvenir sold on the streets of
St. George's, Grenada, an aromatic garland of nut
megs, bits of cinnamon bark, whole cloves, bay leaves,
vanilla-like tonka beans, and more. It is also a meta
phor for the Eastern Caribbean chain of islands where,
as Ann discovers and shares with readers, there's
much more to the seasoning of local cuisine than the
ubiquitous hot pepper.
Ann and Steve's fellow foodies will salivate over every
page (and the pages containing the book's 71 emi-
nently boat-friendly recipes will no doubt receive their
share of curry, wine and other stains, too), but even
non-cooks will relish the bright insight into both
island life and the well-lived cruising life this book
generously spreads before you.
The Spice Necklace is available in Canadian book
stores (published by Doubleday) and will be released in
the US on June 23rd. It can also be ordered from




JUNE 2010

Y ARIES (21 Mar 20 Apr)
Ditch the Dramamine! Any choppy seas in your love life
will calm and it will be smooth sailing for the rest of
the month.
d TAURUS (21 Apr 21 May)
Your verbal skills will be buoyant and will come in handy
later in the month to keep romance afloat when the seas
of love get rough.
SGEMINI (22 May 21 Jun)
Even though your boat-work energy level is low, this is a
good time to launch creative on-board projects.
CANCER 0 (22 Jun 23 Jul)
As honeymoon-type romance fades into the mist, you
and your mate will find new and Inventive projects on
board stimulating to your relationship.
Q LEO (24 Jul 23 Aug)
Love Is sailing your way, so set aside distractions and
enjoy being the center of attention.
W VIRGO (24 Aug 23 Sep)
Renewed energy will boost marine business prospects
and help you get underway on a positive new financial
LIBRA (24 Sep 23 Oct)
Full sails and smooth waters will aid your progress in
creativity and communications.
TL SCORPIO (24 Oct 22 Nov)
Your love life may see some heavy seas in the second
half of June but creative Inspiration will be sailing
close behind.
SAGITTARIUS (23 Nov 21 Dec)
Creativity and communications will be full steam astern,
but shipboard romance will be coming on strong.
6 CAPRICORN (22 Dec 20 Jan)
You'll have energy galore but little nspiration to tell
you which part of your boat to use it on!
^ AQUARIUS (21 Jan 19 Feb)
Creative endeavors with others, Including those In the
area of romance, will be a hard slog to windward. It may
be best to find boat projects you can do by yourself for a
few weeks.
= PISCES (20 Feb 20 Mar)
It will be a mixed bag of changes for you throughout this
month, some positive, some not. Shifting winds and
unpredictable currents should keep things interesting.

Crossword Solution
1) SOUND 53) DUE 23) YAWLS
3) PIVOT 55) OUR 26) CHOCK
11) BIRDS 60) SQUARE 30) AD
13) NAILS 61) AFT 32) WE
15) DAVITS 62) MEW 36) SCULL
18) LWL 38) NO
24) BE 2) DUH 43) ENDERS
28) TA 4) OAR 46) FAST
29) MALE 5) RUM 48) ESAU
31) BOW 6) GEAR 50) LUFF
33) WOODEN 8) SOS 51) BOOM
34) OBOES 9) SAIL 52) CREW
35) VESSEL 10) SET 54) USE
37) SOON 11) BSA 56) UKE
39) KETCH 12) DOUBLE 58) PA
45) LIFE 16) IRON
47) ONE 17) SALT
49) GULL 20) TEEN

Beach of Broken Homes /

sandy crescent graceful and beautiful
and full of trash
as of homes broken from the daily trousseau

on you. no one focuses, nor seems that it matters
as you are downwind
the junk arrives from around the world!

and thus, being downwind, you receive with open arms
all the special deliveries that they send;
empty plastic baby bottles alongside flimsy forks

shattered polychromatic lighters next to foul-mouth slippers
toothbrushes with cartoonish, questionable characters
a child's blue spinning top and a used-up cough syrup container

from the beach to windward they are the ones in charge of the delivery
with their colorful canvas sunbrellas
smelly suntan oils and designer dark glasses

they arrive at full speed in their loaded pirogues
disembark and anoint their beautiful skin
then to lie down in the sand practically unclothed

and thus they begin to throw out their little trash vessels
and it's that the wind is a thief
it goes with time dragging away everything on which one does not fix an eye

it goes with a trembling finger cautiously removing
every type of foil or wrapper that is not firmly anchored c
then to launch them upon the water without rhyme or reason

hardly realizing, the people, what has happened
who, it's to be supposed
won't move for anyone or anything at all

on the beach downwind you may encounter seats and sofas
sides of boats, tree trunks from the Orinoco Delta
a chess piece or even a used syringe

that's to say, almost every artifice of human life
there you can contemplate like some stupefied archeologist
a whole parallel world tossed out of the window

in the harvest you may discover limbs of dolls
or fancy velvet shoes with high heels
light bulbs, fluorescent, incandescent and even a few spark plugs.

but when all this has been buried by the next tidal flood
and the face and body of the beach washed clean with hard blows.
when everything has sunk slowly into the grains of sand.

and organized in strata, in accord with its own unique composition.
gone down to a crucible depth, together, each piece with its own peculiar history, conserved in crystals
of sodium chloride...

then like a vast indelible memory, everything will be inscribed
and recorded within the immense and obscure matrix of this planet
far from our view of the thin and curved life that we live, here on the surface.

sandy crescent graceful and really beautiful
and full of trash
traced by the crystalline waters of a sentient sea

on you perhaps no one focuses, nor seems that it really matters
as you are downwind
the junk arrives from around the world!

W. Gentieu r


f 6orel earmri
{a pearl ? Great,
well, I quess we

cjwto to get

Clams do feel a sense of

responsibility for their actions.


"The boats love I, but the batteries
cast fortune. "

Compass Cruising Crossword

Coral reefs are the key to a healthy Caribbean marine
environment. Test your reef vocabulary with this word
search puzzle by Pauline Dolinski!



1) Measure water's depth with lead
3) That point within a vessel around which
she turns on her helm
7) Fenders
9) Sailing vessels with masts of equal length
11) These like to perch on moored 44 Down
13) Fastenings for planks
15) Small cranes for hoisting dinghies
18) Length of hull where it touches the water (abbrev.)
19) Come : change direction
22) boat: work boat carried by a cargo vessel
24) Old chart note: 'There dragons'
25) 'Hook'
28) ta: bye-bye
29) Electrical connectors have and female ends
31) The pointy end
33) ships and 16 Down men'
34) Some woodwinds
35) 44 Down and jugs are each a type of this
37) 'Just now', maybe
39) 35 Across with the 61 Across mast shorter and set
forward of the rudderpost
42) Cordage
45) boats: emergency 44 Across
47) 14 Downs have mast
49) A common seabird
52) The West Indian dish bulol is made from 17 Down
53) Over : late in arriving
55) 'We live on boat': cruisers' blog entry
57) Deck : winch grinders
59) One pull of the 4 Down
60) knot: reef knot
61) Toward the stern
62) Sea _: common 49 Across

1) Boat : full spelling of bo's'n
2) Stupid sailor's remark?
3) 'What so we hailed...'
4) Rowing tool
5) Jack Tar's libation
6) Equipment
8) Morse code for emergency
9) Piece of canvas used for propulsion
10) What a 9 Down should do properly
11) Barbados Sailing Association (abbrev.)
12) 43 Down: Bequia 44 Down
14) The most common 9 Down 44 Down
16) Caulking tool
17) The sea is water
20) Person between the ages of 12 and 20
21) Narrow boat with paddles
23) 44 Down with the 61 Across mast shorter
and set aft of the rudderpost
26) Piece providing smooth lead for lines
27) Small bay
29) Engine
30) Place this to sell a boat
32) Sail the Ocean Blue': song from HMS Pinafore
36) Propel a boat with one oar at the stern
38) Not yes
40) Dinghy
41) Enormous
43) Island near Mystic Seaport
44) Subject of this puzzle
46) How 44 Down should go in a race
48) Jacob's twin
50) At the center point in a tack your 9 Downs will do this
51) Spar at the foot of a fore-and aft sail
52) Help on board
54) Employ
56) Small guitar-like instrument (slang)
58) Dad

Crossword Solution on page 32











Word Search Puzzle solution on page 37


77by e B -d TKesse o e

by Lee Kessell

"There once was a bird that thought he could fly right up to the sun.
In fact, he thought that he could outshine the sun with his brilliant
golden wings."
"Oh, Granny," broke in Estie as she sat at her grandmother's feet, her
head resting on the old lady's knee and her big black eyes shining like
moons in her pretty dark face, "What happened?"
"He melted in the heat and his feathers burned up."
"That's a horrible story. Tell me that it didn't really happen."
Granny laughed at the little girl. "Of course it didn't really happen, Estie,

The chickens didn't know

what terrible powers

Golden Eye might have,

so they ran away and hid

under the bushes

but this story I'm about to tell you really did happen and I know all about
it because I was your age here in the village at the time."
Granny was born in the small village of Belair under the shadow of
the volcano on the island of St. Vincent. She had gone away to study to
be a teacher and much later, after she had retired, she had returned to
the village to look after her granddaughter while the girl's mother went
off to study.

Now Granny went on with her story. "You know how pretty roosters are
with their long tails of different colours? Well, this rooster -his name was
Golden Eye -was extra special. In fact, there never had been a rooster
like him. He had a tail that was perfectly gold, his wings were orange gold,
his neck and chest were red gold and his comb was like a crown. All the
young hens were madly in love with him and pranced about hoping to be
his special love, but like all roosters, he had many wives and he fathered
many chicks."
"Did any turn out like him?" Estie broke in.
"Not a one. But the trouble was that Golden Eye got above himself and
one day he announced that he was brighter than the sun itself and to
prove it he flew up without burning his feathers. Dropping back to Earth
he announced that as he was brighter than the sun everyone must call
him Bird God. This put them all into a terrible fright because as they
looked up at the sun Golden Eye disappeared into it. Well, the poor
chickens didn't know what terrible powers Golden Eye might have, so
they ran away and hid under the bushes. Golden Eye hadn't expected
this at all and it wasn't long before he became the loneliest bird that
ever was.
"Oh." Estie looked very serious. "He deserved to be lonely, didn't he?"
"Indeed he did, doux-doux. Well, as time went by, Golden Eye's tail
drooped in the dust, his head hung low and he became very thin. In the
end he had to forget his pride and he called out that he was sorry, that he
was no Chicken God at all and he begged for forgiveness."
"I hope everyone forgave him, because I would, wouldn't you?
"Yes, I would and everyone else forgave him, so it wasn't long before
Golden Eye had a few faithful wives that he loved dearly."
"I like that story, Granny. It has a proper ending."
"You know, child, growing up with Golden Eye taught me a good lesson."
Granny picked the little girl up and hugged her tight. "It's all very well to
condemn people for the wrongs they do, but in the end, forgiveness is
everything. Now, let's go into the kitchen and make some ginger cookies."
"And will you forgive me if I spill the flour and drop the eggs?"
Holding hands, Granny and Estie walked into the kitchen laughing.

There may be many hundreds of the baby seaho
L become adults.
SMost scientists believe that seahorses mate for
Sl .... Other scientists disagree. Certainly, each pair will
changing colour, swimming together, holding each
OD/ L^ Seahorses belong to the scientific genus Hipp
S-D O L "horse monster". The presence of these little 'mons
L. surroundings so it is important to take care of the

DEEP SECRETS to see more of them in the future.

by Elaine Olivierre s

Join the dots to find out which tiny creature we're going to look at this month. 0 *
There are only two types of this kind of strange fish in the Caribbean: the* *
Longsnout and the Lined. The shape of the head of this fish resembles the head 1 *b al *a1 i
of a certain land animal: do you know what it is? It's the seahorse.
Seahorses are very shy creatures. Most can change colour to hide from predators I
so they are well camouflaged within the coral reefs and seagrass beds which are their
home. They are related to pipefish which are long and thin and swim in a horizontal
position. The seahorse swims in an upright position using the dorsal fin to move it 0*
slowly along. The pectoral fins behind the eye help it to keep its balance and allow it
to change direction. It is not a very good swimmer so it spends most of its time rest
ing with its curly tail wrapped around a stationary object on the seabed.
The seahorse is a fish but it doesn't have scales. Instead, it has a thin skin
Stretched over rings of bony plates. It has a long snout which it uses to suck up
its favourite food, like shrimps and small fish. The seahorse has two eyes which
Scan move in different directions at the same time.
The most interesting fact about the seahorse is probably that it is the only spe-
cies in the world where the male of the species is the partner who becomes preg- r 1
nant! The female produces eggs which she transfers to a pouch on the male's
'belly'. There, they are fertilized with sperm from the male then the male holds the Pt
I fertilized eggs in the pouch for a few weeks. When they are fully developed, he *
Sexpels them from the pouch. They look exactly like their parents in miniature! I \2,

rses but only a few survive to
life with one faithful partner.
engage in a dance of courtship,
other's tails.
campus. This literally means
ters' reflects the health of their
marine environment if we wish











by Scott Welty

Looking east:
Uranus and
Jupiter on
June 5th,
0400 hours.
Waxing moon
just above

The Planets in June
MERCURY -Best chance to see this is early in the
month when it is 22 degrees west of the sun, rising at
around 0415 hours.
VENUS -Nearly stalled relative to us and setting at
about 2000 hours all month.
EARTH -Pouting because it received no presents on
Earth Day.
MARS -In Leo all month. Visible after dark and set
ting from 2330 hours early in the month and 2230
hours toward the end of the month.
JUPITER -In Pisces and rising around 0130 hours
and earlier as the month wears on.
SATURN -In Virgo and setting around 0100 hours.
URANUS I've never listed Uranus in previous col
umns because it is only visible with a telescope. Turns
out this might not be exactly true if you have very dark
skies such as you get at sea away from all lights.
Uranus is just at the limit of brightness of what we can
see with our naked eye. So, how to find Uranus (mirror
on a stick?)? On June 5th it will be very close to Jupiter
just to the left (see Figure 1). If you have very dark
skies you might give it a try. Use your Steiners. Uranus
should appear slightly blue. Back in Indiana, where I
come from, if you can find Uranus you get to vote!
Sky Events This Month
June 5 -Regulus and Mars right next to each other
(See Figure 2). More about Regulus below.
June 12 -New Moon
June 14 -Sliver of the new moon and Venus
setting together

June 19 -Nice line-up of Venus, Mars, Saturn and the
first quarter moon (See Figure 3)
June 21 Summer Solstice (see below)
June 26 Full Moon
Yes, summer officially starts on June 21st with the
Summer Solstice. From an Earth point of view this is
the day when the sun arcs the farthest north in its
daily east-to-west trip. If you wanted to stand in the
shade of your own sombrero on this day you'd have to
sail to 22.5 North, also known as the Tropic of
Cancer. This latitude has that name because in June
the sun is in the constellation of Cancer. Well it WAS
when they named it the Tropic of Cancer. Now the sun
is actually in Taurus in June due to the precession of
the equinoxes, but what's in a name?
You might also note that this is the day when the sun
rises the farthest north of east and sets the farthest north
of west Azimuth at sunrise in Grenada is about 65 true
on the 21st. The sun is also moving the slowest in its
north-south yearly movement at the solstice, as this is
the turnaround point. Solstice comes from the Latin: sol
(sun) and sistere (to stand still). So these rise and set
points will hardly seem to change for many days. Sunrise
will only have moved to 70 at the end of July.
As stated above, the star Regulus and the planet
Mars are apparently near each other in our sky on
June 5th. In fact, Regulus is about 75 light years away
(which is CLOSE as stars go!) and being over three
times more massive than our sun makes it one of the
brightest stars in our sky. Regulus is the brightest star
in the constellation Leo. Of course it also becomes very
famous in the future...
In the 2150s Regulus was located inside Vulcan terri
tory, near the Andorian border. In 2154for the preemp
tive strike against Andoria planned by Administrator
V'Las, the Vulcan High Command amassed a fleet of
twelve cruisers atReaulus. Reaulus was chosen because

it lay outside the range ofAndorian listening stations.
-From Wikia Entertainment
To Contemplate While Having a Glass of Wine
on Deck
When constants aren't constant. The spin of the Earth
(our day) seems about as dependable and repeatable as
anything could be, but that's just because we don't live
very long. In fact the Earth has been steadily slowing
down (and thus the day lengthening) due to the friction
of the tides. Yep, when that high tide washes up on the
beach that slows us down a little. In fact the Earth is
slowing down at a rate of two seconds every 100,000
years. See why we don't notice nor have to reset our
watches? A clever thing about this is that there are
some corals that leave yearly rings, as do trees, but they
also leave daily rings. So you can date a coral fossil by
counting how many daily rings are between two yearly
rings. You can find 400 daily rings per year in some
coral fossils dating them back to 380 million years ago
when the day was about 22 hours long and there were
400 days in a year. This trick then agrees nicely with
radioactive dating techniques. Wow, 380 MILLION years
ago... remember, if the entire history of the Earth were
compressed into one 24-hour day, humanoids would
appear at 20 seconds before midnight. (Amazing that we
just got here and yet have found so many ways to screw
up so much of the planet!)
Scott Welty is the author of The Why Book of Sailing,
Burford Books, 2007. Visit him at

From the
western horizon
upward Venus,
Mars, Saturn, and
the first quarter
moon at about
2000 hours


Doolittle's Restaurant

Nightly Dinner Specials & Entertainment
Monday: Ladies' Night
(Ladies dine free when accompanied by a gentleman)
Tuesday: Surf & Turf (Limbo Dancing/Fire Eating)
Wednesday: Trio of Fish (Live Entertainment)
Thursday: All-You-Can-Eat Pasta
Friday: Steak Night
Saturday: Bar-B-Q Buffet (Live Entertainment)
Sunday: Full a la Carte Menu
Doolittle's Restaurant provides free Wi-Fi
for all its guests and patrons.
A la Carte menu also available with nightly dinner specials.

Call us on Channel 16 to reserve your table,
we will then pick you up and return you to your yacht.

info@marigotbeachclub.com / www.marigotdiveresort.com

email: crew@tradewindscruiseclub.com
TradeWinds Cruise Club operate a fleet of catamarans across
TRACEwrM six destinations in the Caribbean.
We are the fastest growing charter company,
operating TERM CHARTERS, all inclusive, 7 days.
We are looking for crew, mainly teams in the form of a Captain and a Chef/Hostess.
We prefer couples that are married OR have been living together for at least a year.
The nature of the job is such that the better the understanding and teamwork
between Captain and Chef the more successful your charters will be.
Requirements: Captain with a Skipper's licence.
Chef/Hostess with a basic understanding of cooking.
Dive master/ instructor for either the Captain and/or Chef is a plus.
We offer full training onsite in the Caribbean.
This is a FUN job with great earning potential. If you are willing to work hard and
have a positive disposition to life this could be your DREAM job.
Anyone with an interest is welcome to apply.
If you would like more information about this job or send your CV to us, please
use this email address:
or by mail to: Bequia Marina, P.O.Box 194BQ, Port Elizabeth,
Bequia, St Vincent & the Grenadines
Tel. St Vincent +784 457 3407 Tel. St Maarten +599 5510550

Unfortunately "Primrose" whilst being readied for launching, was dropped onto
the forefoot of the bow and has suffered damage to the forward bow area
below the waterline. The mainmast also broke at the spreaders causing rigging
and mainsail damage due to the Hood in-mast furling system.

This is a fantastic opportunity to lovingly restore this fine
vessel, for either personal use or resale. We invite interested [
parties to inspect the vessel, which is lying in Grenada. For
an appointment, please call Mr. George Robinson at: 1 (473) ,b..h.m,.
440 1193 or 1 (473) 407 5369.

by Ross Mavis

Scrumptious Sea Scallops
My wife Willa came home with some great, big, beautiful scallops that were on sale
in the market recently. These delicious mollusks were of the sea variety as opposed
to the smaller bay scallop.
I've been told that prime scallops are more beige or pink than white. Apparently
the soaking of harvested scallops in water leaches the colour from them and also
adds unfairly to their weight.
Although the entire creature
is edible, we in the Caribbean
and Nort America primarily
eat only the muscular hinge of
these fanshaped shellfish.
These delicious morsels are
high in protein, and contain
some carbohydrates and little
fat. Quantities of calcium,
niacin, iron, riboflavin and
thiamine plus a high amount
of phosphorus can be found
.. in scallops.
I am not a scuba diver, but
I've been told by someone who
is that scallops possess eyes
b of deep blue, almost electric
turquoise in colour. These are
located on short stalks just
inside the shell's mantle.
Apparently the eyes can detect motion and a scallop feeling threatened can quickly
dart away. This is accomplished by the animal clapping its shell open and closed,
causing expelled water to act as a thruster. In areas with very low tides, scallops
don't do as well out of water as oysters. Although their adductor muscle, the part
we eat, is very strong, it does not have the capacity to remain tense for very long,
allowing the shell to open. Marauding sea birds can make short work of partially
opened scallops.
Sometimes Willa and I enjoy scallops in a marinade of lime juice, diced tomato,
cubed avocado or mango, chopped onion and sprinkle of chili pepper flakes. This
dish is called a ceviche and is eaten as a first course or appetizer. Very fresh scallops
should be sliced into thin slices and placed in a glass bowl with the other ingredi
ents. After resting in the refrigerator for several hours, the lime juice has cooked the
flesh, causing it to turn opaque.
If decadence is the order of the day, Coquilles St. Jacques fill the bill. Scallops
are lightly poached in white wine and herbs and then robed in a white sauce of
whipping cream, butter and pepper, and topped with breadcrumbs and freshly
grated Parmesan. These are best served in scallop shells and browned briefly
under the broiler.
Another way we enjoy serving scallops is to simply sear them in a hot pan and
stack them on a bed of fragrant greens. Baby spinach or young Swiss chard works
well for the green vegetable base. The hot pan the scallops are cooked in serves
double duty to brown diced garlic and to wilt the spinach which is tossed with the
garlic bits.
A tip in cooking scallops in this fashion is to not crowd them in the pan. A large
quantity of liquid given off by them when crowded retards the searing process.
Seared Sea Scallops on Greens
1 Tablespoon (15 ml) flour
1 teaspoon (5 ml) paprika
8 fresh sea scallops
2 Tablespoons (30 ml) canola oil
2 Tablespoons (30 ml) canola oil
2 cloves garlic, diced
5 ounces (140 g) baby spinach leaves
freshly ground pepper and salt to taste
2 lemon or lime wedges
In a small pie plate, mix flour and paprika. Dredge scallops lightly in mixture.
Place a cast iron frying pan on medium high heat. When the pan is very hot, add
canola oil and place scallops, un crowded, in the pan. Let scallops sear for about two
minutes on each side. Remove and place in a dish to keep warm.
Rinse pan and return to high heat, add canola oil and diced garlic. Stir until garlic
bits are nicely browned but not black. Remove from pan and reserve. Add greens to
pan and stir until they are nicely wilted. Add browned garlic bits and toss to incor
porate well. Salt and pepper lightly and divide the greens between two plates.
Place warm scallops on top of greens and serve immediately with a wedge of lemon
or lime on the side. Scrumptious!
Questions regarding cooking orfood in general are welcomed at Ross@InnontheCove.
corn I'll do my best to provide an answer for you.

balata are ripe! The balata tree is Manikara bidentata and, like its relative the sapodilla (Manikara zapo
ta), it produces a tasty, sweet tropical fruit. Unfortunately, balatas usually have too little flesh, with too
much seed.
We know of a few trees that bear large balatas, half the size of a hen's egg. These are huge trees reaching almost
200 feet tall. One tree is above Twojoe Bay on Trinidad's north coast. This great tree hangs on the side of a steep
hill immediately above the pounding surf. It has lived through at least five generations of the family whose home
it shades. Around it are three smaller trees that seeds spit out by fruit-eaters have spawned.
The balata tree is a slow grower, very tolerant of shade especially in the high, thick forest. Partial shade develops
strong, deep roots that cling to the hills and can withstand powerful winds. Puerto Ricans also love this tree, but
mostly for its wood, especially used for building boats. There it thrives in acidic clay soil, but with a bit of care it
will grow in almost any type of earth on hillsides, floodplains, or along the sea. Balata only requires adequately
drained soil.

by Shirley Hall

The main use of the tree outside Trinidad is as
commercial wood. Balata timber is used for railroad
ties under the rails, heavy construction, furniture,
and even pool cues. This wood can be bent in a
steam box for boat frames and other curved pieces.
Balata resembles mahogany and is resistant to the
dry wood termites because the wood is deadly poi
sonous. If working with balata lumber be sure to
wear a dust mask.
Back in the third week of March we started look
ing to the high branches to watch if there are any
fruits ripening from yellow to orange. The balata
posse we tagged along with had father and two sons
working to get a nice sweet taste. The elder son,
Bradley, rivaled Tarzan for his adeptness in climb
ing to the high, slender branches still loaded with
succulent fruits. This tree has been raided a few
times, but it has a unique protector, "jep" nests!
Jeps are tiny wasps that pack severe pain in their
stingers. I know big men who fear their sting more
than that of any snake. Stories prevail of men being
run down and stung to death by these tiny wasps.
The landward side of the tree had four jep nests
protecting some of the most loaded branches.
Bradley carefully moved close, but not too close.
Father Steve shouted directions from ground level.
Wearing his backpack on his belly Bradley held a
branch tight with one hand, while the other scooped
the fruits into the bag. Younger brother Nick quick
ly grabbed any that fell. None of those made it to
any bag. Fifteen minutes later Brad was safe on the
ground and we enjoyed the fruits of his labor.
After consuming 20 or more big fruit, our lips and
fingers were sticky. We learned a new trick: take a
balata leaf and wipe all the stickiness away! Balata
actually means "sap" in Spanish. Mature trees are
tapped for balata gum, which is similar to gutta Above: Bradley out on a limb, collecting ripe balatas
percha, a not-very elastic rubber. Sap has been Top: The fruit of his labor
harvested from some trees for more than two
decades. Originally the latex was thickened by fire or dried in the sun, and souvenirs or novelties were fabricat
ed. Now the latex is used for a non elastic rubber needed for some golf ball skins and machine belts. It is very
waterproof and excellent for insulating underwater and underground electric cables and connections.
These delicious fruits are most often eaten fresh. A hundred grams of balatas, about a big handful, have 62
calories with two and a half grams of protein and ten grams of fat.
Be careful to lean forward when eating balata because the juice leaves a nasty stain on clothing.
Balata Frozen Treats
This year we had so many balatas I finally made sherbet. First split the skins with a sharp knife. Twist open and
scoop out the flesh, discarding the seed and skin. It is best to do this over a large bowl so none of the sticky juice
hits the counter or floor. (Forget about doing this with small fruit. Ours were over an inch in diameter, making
them easy to clean. Our project took about 40 balatas.) Be certain your blender can chop ice. Add a tray of cubes
to the cleaned balata flesh in the blender and chop for a few minutes. At this stage, you will have balata ice
excellent for homemade snow cones. Add a can of sweetened condensed milk and blend again to create balata
sherbet. A touch of cinnamon and nutmeg increases the unique balata flavor. Pour this mixture into a plastic flex
ible container and freeze until it just starts to harden, in four to five hours. Remove from freezer and blend again
to break the ice crystals. Refreeze or serve.
For the Gardeners
Those familiar with enjoying balata know you must have enough space to spit out the skin and seeds. It is the
same with growing a tree it needs plenty of space. Sprout several seeds and pot them in soil for at least a year.
If you have a 40 by 40 foot area that is free and would be nice shaded, it is perfect for a balata tree that will last
from father to sons many times over. Keep a balata tree as far away as possible from any septic tanks as the roots
will creep to find a good source of water. Once the tree is three years old, give it starter fertilizer (12 24 12) mixed
equally with calcium nitrate at one cup every three months. Balata grows slowly, but needs water so irrigate
monthly in the dry season. Wrap the young tree's trunk with aluminum foil so the whip string of a bushwhacker
can't damage it.

Stock Up

on the widest selection and the

best prices in Grenada at our two

conveniently located supermarkets.

Whether its canned goods, dairy

products, meat, fresh vegetables

or fruits, toiletres, household goods,

or a fine selection of liquor and wine.

The Food Fair has it all and a lot more.


S nUMarine
The insurance business has changed.
S No longer can brokers talk of low rates.
Rather, the honest broker can only say,
"I'll do my best to minimize your increase!"
There is good insurance, there is cheap
S insurance, but there is no good cheap
insurance. You never know how good
S your insurance is until you have a claim.
My daims settlement record
cannot be matched.

I have been connected with the marine insurance
business for 47 years. I have developed a rapport
with brokers and underwriters at Lloyds and am
able to introduce boat owners to specialist brokers
in the Lloyds market.
e-mail: streetiolaire@hotmail.com
www.street-iolaire.com f




The Carenage:
Monday -Thursday
8 am to 5:30 pm
Friday until 8:45 pm
Saturday until
1:00 pm
Tel: (473) 440-2588
Grand Anse:
Monday -Thursday
9 am to 5:30 pm
Friday & Saturday
until 7:00 pm
Tel: (473) 444-4573


Real sailors use Street's Guides for inter-island and harbor
piloting directions, plus interesting anecdotes of people,
places and history. Street's Guides are the only ones that
describe ALL the anchorages in the Eastern Caribbean.
NEW! Streets videos, first made in 1985,
are now back as DVDs.
* "Transatlantic with Street" documents a sailing passage
from Ireland to Antigua via the Cape Verdes. 2 hours
S"Antigua Week '85" is the story of the engineless yawl lolaire
racing round the buoys to celebrate her 80th birthday. 1 hour
S"Street on Knots" demonstrates the essential knots and
line-handling skills every sailor should know. 1 hour
S"Streetwise 1 and 2" give bps that appeared in the popular vdeo
Sailing Quarterly, plus cruises in the Grenadines, Venezuela and
southwest coast of Ireland
DVDs available at Imray, Kelvn Hughes, Armchair Sailor/
Bluewater Books, and www.street-iolaire.com.
Full information on DVDs at www.street-iolaire.com
HURRICANE TIPS! Visit www.street-iolaire.com for a wealth of
information on tracking and secunng for a storm.
Street's Guides and DVDs are available
at all Island Waterworld stores and at Johnson's Hardware,
or from www.iUniverse.com and www.seabooks.com

Read in Next

Month's Compass:

Finding Bliss in Barbuda
Summertime Grenada Revisited
St. Barth's Tomb of the
Well-Known Sailors
... and more!

Dear Compass,
I am extremely shocked byAngelika Gruener's Letter of
the Month in the February issue. Let me tell you that I
have found some of the things she wrote not to be true.
I've been in Venezuela for nine months now and it is
the third time we have come without any problem. I just
hauled out my Lagoon 42 catamaran for two weeks and
spent two weeks in a marina hotel in the Gulf of Cariaco.
The invoice for my cat was US$358 and the hotel bill for
15 days for three people including room, great break
fast, lunch and dinner with a lot of drinks at the bar,
was US$1,670, making $37 per day per person.
I have just been to the market and I can tell you that
onions are not US$6 per kilo but 70.
Juan-Felipe de Villagarcia
S/V Bananera

Dear Compass,
I am appalled at the wrong impression about the
security situation in Chaguaramas, Trinidad that is
being presented in articles put out by the media.
My wife and I have lived on a boat in Chaguaramas
for the past 11 years and have never felt that our per
sonal safety was threatened. Several years ago
Chaguaramas was plagued by dinghy/outboard engine
thefts off boats at anchor, but the thieves were caught
and the situation stabilized. We still have the occa
sional theft, but if I look at the statistics available on
the Caribbean Cruisers' Safety Net, then for the past
12 months Trinidad has had the least problem with
theft and assaults when compared to other islands in
the Windwards and Venezuela. The figures for
Venezuela and its outer islands could come from a war
zone. In Chaguaramas over the past 12 months there
were no assaults, although there were three reported
dinghy thefts (two of which were recovered without
engines) and one personal robbery. So far in 2010,
there has been one case of a break-in on a yacht and
no thefts of dinghies.
The threat of pirate attacks has also been distorted.
In the last three years there were two confirmed reports
of armed attacks on boats making the passage between
Trinidad and Grenada. Although these are two too
many and must have been horrific for the crews
involved, I believe that these were very unlucky, oppor
tunistic encounters. We sail to and from Grenada two
or three times per year and over the past year crossed
between these two islands six times and visited Tobago
once and although we have seen a number of pirogues
and had some pass nearby, we had no problems.
On our recent trip to Tobago, we were challenged by
a T&T Coast Guard vessel that we had watched stop
ping and checking up on every fishing vessel within
our range (six total) before coming over to our yacht.
We were asked for our details and after about ten min-
utes (I assume spent getting confirmation from
Customs and Immigration in Chaguaramas), we were
allowed to proceed. The Trinidadian Coast Guard is
out there, although it seems mainly at night presently
because of a shortage of trained crews for their new
offshore patrol boats. We have been informed that
there is a large contingent of T&T Coast Guard person
nel in England at present undergoing training and
presumably when they return we will see a greater
number of patrols offshore.
I live and work in Chaguaramas and sail regularly
between Grenada and Trinidad and feel as safe here as
I would at home. Maybe I will be mugged one day, but
that could happen anywhere. My message to other
cruisers is, "Don't let unfounded rumour prevent you
from coming and enjoying this very different island."
Niels Lund
S/V Baraka

Dear Compass,
It really amazes me when cruisers talk about all the
crime in the Caribbean. I don't believe there is any
more crime here than any other place in the world

there are just so many more opportunities.
When ashore, I live in a very nice home in a very nice
neighborhood in the US. We have very little crime and
feel secure in our house. But every night, we lock the
doors, secure the windows and make sure lawnmow
ers, bicycles, etcetera, have been put away and locked
up before we go to bed. Why is it that cruisers who
come to the Caribbean act differently? I am shocked at
the stories I read in your paper, not by the acts of thiev
ery, but in the ways that cruisers tempt would-be
thieves and give them golden opportunities. Cruisers
leave their hatches and companionways wide open and
then go to sleep. Their decks are so cluttered with stuff,
the boat looks like a floating Budget Marine store. Ask
yourself, would you really go to bed with your front
door wide open back home, and leave a bunch of your
belongings on the front yard by the street?
There are easy and cheap ways to make your boat
safe. Large deck hatches can be secured with burglar
bars or rods. Any welding shop can make these up out
of stainless steel bars 3/8" or 1/4" thick, with a small
rectangular mounting tab (with two screw holes) at
each end. Just screw them to the interiors of your
hatch frames. You can use screws with a special head,
requiring a special screwdriver to remove them, if you
want. (Be sure to keep a screwdriver handy in each
cabin in the rare event of flooding or fire and you need
to undo them to get out!) For your companionway, just
use 1/4" by 1" flat aluminum bars welded into a small
grid, sized to slide into your hatch board slot. Many
companies are also selling small burglar alarms, bat
tery operated, that sense body heat rather than motion.
Mount it in your cockpit and sleep like a baby.
Locking your dinghy up is also simple and cheap. Go
to any rigging shop and ask for a 25-foot length of dis
carded rigging wire, or better yet, discarded vinyl-cov
ered lifeline cables, as heavy as you can handle. Get
the rigging shop to swage an eye in each end, then lock
one end to the outboard engine locking handles, run it
along the inside of the dinghy, and tie it to the
bow. You should then have 20 feet or so left to use to
tie the dinghy up to your own boat (by locking the
other eye to a stanchion) or to a dock onshore. The
reason to have it fairly long is for those very crowded
dinghy docks, so you don't act like a "new cruiser" and
tie up too close to a dock thus preventing others from
getting in. (Personally I like these dumb cruisers,
because when I come back from walking all over town,
I have to get into two or three of their dinghies to get
to mine and by then my shoes are nice and clean.)
Most cruisers these days seem to have huge, brand
new outboard motors on their dinghies. Frankly, I just
don't understand what they are thinking. They sail
thousands of miles at five to seven knots to get to
paradise and a peaceful, relaxed lifestyle, and are even
thrilled at speeds of eight to ten knots underway. But
when they arrive at an anchorage, they have to speed
around at 15 to 20 knots, making lots of noise and
throwing wakes through the anchorages. Maybe they
really miss their hectic, fast-paced life back home. My
wife and I sailed around the world with a four-horse
power outboard and did just fine. We recently com-
pleted circumnavigating South America carrying only
a three-horsepower outboard and had no problem. The
only time we lock our dinghy and outboard is when
other cruisers are around. In all my travels, I've never
seen a local paddling around in a rubber dinghy, and
no self-respecting fisherman would be caught dead
with a three-horsepower outboard -he'd be the
laughingstock of his village.
John Martin
S/Y Moon Dog

Dear Compass Readers,
This is a warning to all yachts visiting St. Vincent to
be aware of the boat thefts going on in Wallilabou Bay,
St. Vincent.
In early April, for the first time, we anchored overnight
in Wallilabou Bay. We arrived in the dark and as we had
previously heard that if moorings are not paid for before
nightfall and business is not given to the locals, you
were likely to get your lines cut! So we made sure that
we tipped the dinghy boy for helping us to a moor
ing. We then bought ice and paid for our mooring.
While ten people were asleep on our yacht, thieves
boarded it (a VERY SCARY thought). They stole approx
imately US$1800 worth of equipment and cash from
our guests.
Geri S. Ferdinand
Boat Name Withheld by Request

Dear Geri,
We forwarded your letter to Steve Russell of the
Wallilabou Anchorage for comment, which follows.

Dear Compass,
Thanks for allowing me the opportunity to respond
to this issue.
We were proud of the fact that not a single inci
dent had occurred at Wallilabou involving the police
since the theft reported by Captain Kjell of the
Swedish yacht Treviljor on the 1st of February 2009
-until recently.
Continued on next page

Rocks don't move or if they do they are shown on
up-to-date Imray charts. Regarding marine
infrastructure, virtually every island puts out a free
marine trade guide every year, which is much more
up-to-date than any guide; similarly, the tourist
departments put out a free annual guide for bars,
restaurants and hotels.
With all these updates readily available,
Street's guides are timeless.

`&,.'% 11. 'X

-ontinued from previous page
Since that time, we have documented every sin
gle event for which it was necessary to call in the
local constabulary.
Since the 2009-2010 season began, there have been
three instances of theft in Wallilabou Bay. On March
2nd, Lou Dequne of the USA reported the theft of one
laptop and a camera from his yacht. On the 27th of
March, Christopher Respini of Austria reported the theft
of a quantity of items, and on the 11th of April, Gerston
Ferdinand from the UK reported a theft on his boat.
We apologize to all those persons who have sus
tained losses at Wallilabou and know the misery that
such an experience causes. We continue to work dili
gently to make the bay a more secure place by employ
ing security personnel, increasing security lights and
partnering with the local Police in mitigating any
unlawful acts.
While it is no consolation to those who suffered
losses at the hands of these criminals, according to the
Caribbean Safety & Security Net website, Wallilabou
has reported among the lowest number of yacht inci
dents of any bay in St. Vincent & the Grenadines dur
ing the past yachting season and remains one of the
safest anchorages in the country.
Thanking you for your kind attention.
Yours truly,
Stephen Russell
Wallilabou Anchorage
St. Vincent

Dear Compass,
Some six months ago I installed a Garmin chart plot
ter at the helm station on our yacht. Not only did I
want this unit because of its excellent AIS program,
but I also wanted a secondary stand alone/back-up
GPS system.
This unit has a good sun cover supplied -and I am
now on my THIRD one! Where on earth are these cov
ers going, I ask? Can the wind be blowing them off? I
hardly think so -for three reasons: a) The covers are
a very tight fit and it would require a huge blast of air
to knock them off, b) our cockpit is very protected,
central with a permanent windshield/dodger, and c)
with nearly five-metre beam on the yacht the unit has
a long way to travel to go over the side.
So the only conclusion can be is that they are being
filched -but WHY? The cover costs exactly US$16 to
replace at Budget Marine. Are people really risking
theft over such an odd (and available) item? Has any
one else in the readership experienced a theft like this
in Grenada, Antigua or St. Martin?
The second two covers have engraved on the inside
"Property of S/YIndaba- if you are reading this and
the boat you are on is NOT Indaba kindly punch your
self (or the owner) in the mouth immediately". Wordy I
know, but what the heck!
J. Burnie
S/Y Indaba

Dear Compass,
Having enjoyed another wonderful cruising season
from Grenada to Antigua, back to Grenada and in
between, I felt I had to write to you about something
that happened on our return to Canada.
One of the complaints most heard "down south" is
about security issues, as if nothing happens anywhere
else in the world. After flying into Toronto we went to
our son in Kingston, Ontario. He has a part share of a
boat there and we arrived in time for launch weekend.
On the Saturday we went to help with the clean-up on
the boat. Being a small boat its propulsion, apart from
sails, is by a small outboard engine. This we noted was
locked in place. Early the Sunday morning we returned
to the marina for launch to find a very distraught
owner -the outboard had been stolen! Twelve engines
and several dinghies on a trailer had gone.
So cruisers, just remember, it can happen anywhere
and in this case "lock it or lose it" didn't hold true.
Joy and lan Winterborn

Dear Compass Readers,
Remember that 1989 baseball movie, "Field of
Dreams", starring Kevin Costner? In the story, a man
follows his (some would say crazy) dream and builds a
baseball diamond in his Iowa cornfield... and sure
enough, he sparks some epic baseball action. The
analogy can be applied to Jerome Bardouille, the prin
cipal of Isaiah Thomas Secondary School on the island
of Dominica. Bardouille's vision was to create a "liter
acy center" in his high school -a school whose stu
dents have suffered from a lack of infrastructure and
resources for many years that has led to a precipitous
drop in reading skills. When Hands Across the Sea
heard about Mr. Bardouille's dream, we pitched in to
help -all made possible, of course, by the cash con
tributions and donations of "gently used" books by
generous Hands supporters as part of our Schools (not
Pirates!) of the Caribbean project.
The instant success of the Isaiah Thomas Secondary
School Literacy Center has been very exciting. To hear
the "oohs" and "aahs" from the first group of students
to visit the center -along with the occasional shriek

as a student found a book they've been dying to read
is wonderful. This first batch of books is exciting and
we'll be spending the summer looking for more books
to ship down to add to the Goosebumps, Babysitters'
Club, Nancy Drew, Hardy Boys, Lemony Snicket and
Harry Potter collections. If you have books to donate, or
can donate some funds to help us buy more of these
series, the students at ITSS will be thrilled!
On Dominica, as throughout the Caribbean, books
are breathtakingly expensive -two to three times
more costly than the same titles in the States -if they
are available at all. Many families have little or no
money to buy books of their own, and many communi
ties lack a library, so the only place young students
can read is in school. The ITSS Literary Center will be
playing a key role in improving reading skills for many,
many years to come.
We owe a huge "thank you" to our partners at
Tropical Shipping (www.tropical.com), Boaters for
Books (www.boatersforbooks.org), AITWorldwide (www.
aitworldwide.com), and Harte-Hanks, Inc. (www.harte
hanks.com) for their invaluable logistical support.
TL and Harriet Linskey
Hands Across the Sea, Inc.

Dear Compass,
This is for Adam, the boat kid who wrote a letter
about the death of his cat in the April issue.
Dear Adam,
I cannot put into words how moved I was by your
letter about the loss of your furry friend, the lovely
Rita. I am an older woman and have loved and lost
many pets in my lifetime and want you to know that
you are right: she will live in your heart forever.
I also want to encourage you, when you and your
family are ready, to adopt a kitten or puppy. You will
not be being disloyal to Rita, and she would want you
to be happy. A kitty or pup will bring new love and
laughter into your life. You won't be replacing Rita, as
you will find you have room in your heart for a new
and different furry friend.
Melinda Parke

Dear Compass,
Thank you for your item on the Wirie (WiFi device) in
the Business Briefs section of your April 2010 issue.
We bought the Wirie in February 2010 and it cost
US$275 including an extra extension USB cable.
Because of the cost, we had some questions quickly
answered. Mark's technical comparison chart of the
Wirie against other WiFi solutions was easy to under
stand. Since February 2010, we have used the Wirie on
a daily basis from St. Martin to the Grenadines and the
results have been outstanding. Technical Support was
quick to answer my questions via e-mail. The Wirie
came with technical documentation that allowed me to
set it up permanently on the boat within two hours.
In addition to the advantages listed in the news item,
the Wirie has:
Decreased crew stress. We used to have some stress
on discussing when and where to go ashore to use
internet connections that may be up or down on arrival,
and the cost of buying the food and beverages associ
ated with being allowed to sit in the internet location.
Increased safety. We typically leave our departure
anchorages in the early hours and have been relying on
internet weather gained the day before. Now we can
review weather at our anchorage just before we depart.
Improved communications. Gone are the frustra
tions of moving around the boat with the laptop and
towel on one's head to cut the glare on the screen. Now
we can contact our family and friends 24 hours a day
from our anchorage.
The Wirie has been our best boating purchase this
season. Thank you Mark for your leading edge product
and proactive technical service.
Pamela and Graham Ellis
S/V Mandolin

Dear Compass,
In July of 2009 we purchased 300 feet of anchor
chain from Secure Anchor and Chain, a retailer in Fort
Lauderdale, Florida. The chain was reasonably priced
and even with shipping to Grenada represented a sav
ings over what it would cost us on-island. The chain
was represented as CMP (Canada Metal Pacific), ISO
high-test, hot-dip galvanized windlass chain.
We put the chain aboard late July and were moored
at a dock until September 1, 2009. We then took off for
a few weeks at anchor. By Week Two, rust had started
showing through the galvanizing. By Week Five, all
galvanizing was gone from any part of the chain that
had been used.
I contacted the retailer who told us that they would
replace the chain but it would have to be done in Fort
Lauderdale because they need the old chain back to
return to their distributor. They refused to ship the
replacement chain to us in Grenada even if I were to pay
the freight. We weren't planning on going to Fort Lauderdale
but that was what it looked like we were going to have to
do. Secure Anchor and Chain later relented and said they
would ship to a destination on the US East Coast
Continued on next page

Sea Ray 340, 2005, 250 engine hrs,
twin 8.1s Mercruiser Engines.
Fully Equipped,
Colour Raymarine chartplotter,
Radar, Liferaft, A/C, Stereo.

Located in Rodney Bay St. Lucia
Contact us for more pictures
Tel. owner (Tony) 0044 7740201135
Tel. owner 0044 1622737262
Tel. skipper (Nico) +1 (758) 716 3956
Email tony@hospitallane.com

Price to sell: US$125,000


Pat Rpar .evc
Oultboa r~dITQQ l Engne 2HP-2E50H l

Letter of the Month

Dear Compass Readers,
As anyone who sails knows, it's
awesome to come across a creature as
magnificent as a whale while under
way. Incredibly, the current worldwide
ban on commercial whale hunting might be about to
be lifted. Don't worry; I won't regale you with gory sto
ries. Let's discuss this rationally, shall we?
After sailing the entire Eastern Caribbean, my husband
and I recently settled in St. Kitts. St. Kitts hosted the
International Whaling Commission (IWC) meeting in 2006,
and at that time wrote a declaration proposing that the
ban should be lifted in the Caribbean. Several Caribbean
nations endorsed it One of them, St. Vincent & the
Grenadines, has in fact been killing whales under the

IWC's "aboriginal whaling" (non commercial) rights. Now
whales are under attack again, only on a grander scale.
Why? Is it a cultural thing? Throwing virgins into live
volcanoes was a cultural thing too, but if it was still
happening in the South Pacific I wouldn't go watch it
and justify my complacency on my supposed respect
for tradition. Plus, we've learned a bit since the days of
our ancestors haven't we?
No. Unsurprisingly, the primary reason St. Kitts and
other Caribbean countries took this ill-advised route
was thanks to the approximately US$100 million in
both monetary payments and new fish processing
facilities offered by Japan to vote with them on this
issue. Talk about "blood money".
Despite the fact that the locals themselves didn't
want this declaration written, the head of the Fisheries
Department said, "The region would like to see the
exploitation of the whaling industry for the benefit of
the Caribbean". I don't think so. There are many rea
sons most islands have not started hunting whales,
despite their IWC votes, and tourism including
whale watching -is one.
Now, what few regulations there are on whaling are
being threatened once again and it could soon be a
free-for-all out there. I bring this up, not only because
I am totally against killing whales, but also because it
would be bad for St. Kitts (and other Caribbean coun
tries). This island is just getting its foothold on tourism
after switching from a sugar-based economy. Why are
the bureaucrats so eager to kill (pun intended) tour

Continuedfrom previous page

ism's momentum before it even gets started?
Here's what one soul at the St. Kitts Fisheries
Department, Cedric Liburd, said about whaling in St.
Kitts: "We are speaking to data, we believe that science
should be the way forward but instead of it they are
really focusing on the emotional aspect of it."
First of all, there is no science behind it. Japan has
not submitted one meaningful scientific report obtained
from its "scientific" killing of whales. But we already
know a lot about whales: they form strong family
units; they sing songs specific to their pods, songs that
have been around for thousands of years; they're
pretty intelligent; and they feel pain. Isn't that enough
to make us question whaling? Second of all, of course
we're focusing on the emotional aspect of it. Isn't that
what supposedly separates us from the animals? You
know -the fact that we actually feel compassion (I
dispute that other mammals don't share this trait, but
I digress).
We can decide to destroy or not to destroy. What to
eat or not to eat. We do have choices. Unfortunately,
every other thing on the planet has to live with the
choices we humans make. The good and the bad. This
one is bad.
"We have all these tourists coming here; what are we
going to feed them with, are we going to ask the United
States to send the fish here?" Mr. Liburd asked, add
ing, "Thats not what we want. We want to be able to
benefit from tourists coming to our country and that's
what we have to look at."
He's kidding right? They don't know how they're
going to feed all the tourists without killing whales?
Believe me, no one is going to starve on this island.
Any day of the week, and especially on weekends,
there are half barrels full of hot coals on every sin
gle corner (and in between) cooking up more food
than McDonalds.
A widely touted reason for killing whales is the mis
guided notion that whales are depleting the world's
oceans of fish. It is not whales that are depleting fish
stocks but rather over-fishing by huge trawlers and
factory ships. They take not only targeted species but
also kill thousands of dolphins, sea turtles, and other
marine life as they drag miles of nets destroying reefs
that are the nurseries necessary to protect fish as they
grow. In the Caribbean, the relatively few whales that
pass through here are most certainly not a threat to
the fish supplies (in fact, humpbacks don't eat at all
while they're in the Caribbean). I'm pretty sure there
are more fishing vessels than whales out there.
Proponents of whale hunting want to assure us that
the whales won't be over-harvested. Good luck with
that. There's a fisherman here who brings bags of lob
sters to local restaurants with adult lobsters on top,
and babies and egg-carrying female lobsters on the
bottom. The restaurants could be fined up to EC$5,000
if such illegal lobsters are found on their premises, but
despite alerting the Fisheries Department about this
man (and others) nothing has happened. These crimi
nals are going to kill the last generation of lobsters
here and put not only the fishermen into a free-fall but
hurt restaurants as well. Mahi-mahi is also becoming
harder and harder to come by. Yeah, our record of
stewardship has been exemplary so far...

...Readers' Forum

During this discussion I also e-mailed CMP to see if
they had a distributor in the islands that could help us
with the problem.
Enter Chris Pauwels, CMP's Vice President of Sales
and Marketing. He ran the chain down and discovered
it came from a batch of chain that CMP had refused but
which had ended up in the hands of some apparently
unscrupulous distributors in the US that were passing
it off as anchor chain. CMP, through Chris, made the
commitment to us to make our problem right.
They did. When we returned to the US and hauled
the boat for some work the replacement chain was
waiting for us at the boatyard. The quality of this
chain compared to the bad batch was obvious and
we are looking forward to getting years of service
from it.
However, regardless of the chain, the real standout
in this story is CMP and their commitment to their
customers, even in a case like ours where they
weren't obligated to do anything. I have seldom seen
this level of customer support and follow-through
even to the point of contacting the retailer to ascer
tain what had happened.
CMP has won us over as customers and we look
forward to buying their products in the future.
Best regards,
Jim Ewing
S/V Bees Knees

Dear Compass Readers,
Imray is in the midst of completely re-drawing charts A
231/232US and BVI, and chart D 14, Los Testigos,
Blanquilla and Testigos, is coming up for re-print. If any
one has any corrections or suggestions on how to improve
the chart please contact streetiolaire@hotmail.com.

Imray has changed its chart correction procedure, as
it was felt that the old system was not completely reli
able. In the past all charts were up-to-date to the time
of shipment from Imray. This was done by enclosing
with the chart a slip of paper that contained all the
corrections to that chart received since the date of lat
est printing. But all too often the slip went adrift when
the charts were stowed in the chart rack of the various
Imray agents. Also the charts might sit in the agent's
office one, two, or in the case of some charts even
three, years from the time the chart left Imray. Thus
even if the correction slip was still with the chart, the
slip might be out of date.
Now, no correction slips are attached to the charts,
rather the chart agents have been asked to put up a notice
saying that all charts should be corrected before using.
All corrections to all Imray charts are on the website
www.imray.com. To find the Imray-Iolaire charts of the
Eastern Caribbean, just click through to Caribbean
charts, find the relevant chart number and you have all
the corrections to that chart completely up-to
date. Corrections go into the website as they are received.
Best to all,
Don Street
PS: Concerning boats going aground when entering
Christiansted, St. Croix, as mentioned in previous
issues of Compass: when the Imray chart is re-printed
it will say on the front of the chart in the Christiansted
inset, "Read piloting directions on the back of the
chart before entering the channel". Hopefully that will
solve the problem.

Dear Compass Readers,
Hurricane season is here again.

And again, even if you are for the hunting of whales,
at least insist that those in charge ensure that the tech
nique is as humane as it possibly could be. The technol
ogy used for killing whales has altered little since the
1800s, when the grenade-tipped harpoon was invented.
The harpoon is intended to penetrate the whale's body
before detonating, killing it by inflicting massive shock
or injury. It often doesn't work, meaning they then need
to be shot several times or harpooned again. If this
sounds bad, its actually worse. More details can be
found at www.saawinternational.org/whaling.htm.
In 1947, Henry Lillie, a British physician, made a really
good point: "If we can imagine a horse having two or three
explosive spears stuck into its stomach and being made
to pull a butcher's truck through the streets of London
while it pours blood in the gutter, we shall have an idea
of the present method of killing. The gunners themselves
admit that if whales could scream the industry would
stop, for nobody would be able to stand it."
Think about it. This practice would be considered

unacceptable if whales were required to be treated in
the same way as agricultural animals slaughtered for
human food. Again -where's our compassion? Where
is our conscience?
Let me just say to the Tourism and Fisheries
Departments of St. Kitts that there's not a single person
on a cruise ship who wants to come into the harbor and
see a whale being killed. And they certainly don't want
to witness such a sight and then have a restaurant
serve them up a whale burger. (If they do, Texas should
take note. Put the anal electrocution of cows on the
billboards welcoming people to your state.)
I encourage you to sign the petition at www.avaaz.org
to stop this stupidity. Its bad for business, if not just
plain inhumane. We're better than this... aren't we?
Renee Petrillo
(formerly of S/V Jacumba)

Editor's note: A proposition to lift the current global ban
on commercial whaling will be put forward at this
month's meeting inMorocco of the 88 nationInternational
Whaling Commission (IWC), a body whose governing
Convention providesfor the proper conservation of whale
stocks and the complete protection of certain species as
well as designating specified areas as whale sanctuar
ies. The votes of Caribbean IWC members Antigua &
Barbuda, Dominica, Grenada, St. Kitts & Nevis, St.
Lucia, St. Vincent & the Grenadines and Suriname -
could be crucial in either passing it or quashing it.

All yachts not capable of and willing to immediately
and effectively secure for any and all storm threats
should haul out or leave the hurricane belt soon.
All who remain in the water should act responsibly
to those around them. This includes being equipped,
keeping abreast of the weather, and responding early
and seriously to all threats. Entering a hurricane hole
for a storm threat makes you responsible to those
around you, many of whom may soon be fighting for
their homes and possibly their very lives. Unprepared
vessels are more dangerous to them than the weather
itself. (One's very life may also be at risk ashore, by
the way.)
Don't believe the forecast tracks. Be prepared.
Fair Winds,

Dear Compass Readers,
We want to hear from YOU!
Please include your name, boat name or shoreside
address, and a way we can contact you (preferably by
e-mail) if clarification is required.
We do not publish individual consumer complaints or
individual regatta results complaints. (Kudos are okay!)
We do not publish anonymous letters; however, your
name may be withheld from print at your request.
Letters may be edited for length, clarity and fair play.
Send your letters to:
Compass Publishing Ltd.
Readers' Forum
Box 175BQ
Bequia VC0400
St. Vincent & the Grenadines

Ready for Hurricane

Season 2010?

by Teri Rothbauer

The renowned Colorado State University hurricane researchers foresee above average
activity for hurricane season 2010, primarily based on higher sea surface temperatures
and an expectation of a decline in vertical wind shear activity. They project a 58 percent
probability of at least one major (Category 3, 4 or 5) hurricane to track into the
Caribbean, compared to the average chance for the last century of 42 percent.
Did you notice the weaker than normal tradewinds from January through March?
The reduction in wind causes less upwelling of cold water, less evaporation from the
sea surface, and hence
Warmer sea surface tem
peratures. The change may
be imperceptible when you
jump overboard for a swim,
but according to the scien
tists, sea surface tempera
tures are near the highest
levels on record. Higher
surface temperatures are
characteristic of an active
hurricane season.
In the April 2009 forecast
the scientists also called for
an active hurricane season,
based in part on higher sea
surface temperatures
However, an El Nino sys
tem developed and pro
duced an increase in tropo
1999's Huricane Lenny, its eye just south of St. Cro spheric vertical shear, thus
inhibiting tropical cyclone
genesis and intensification. Although it is still early to accurately predict, it is
expected that the current El Nino effect will continue to moderate. Most statistical
and dynamical models are calling for a transition to neutral conditions for El Nino
by the AugustOctober period, the most common period of hurricane development.
This will reduce vertical wind shear in the area of the tropical Atlantic where most
hurricanes develop.
The CSU researchers believe there is a 94 percent probability that one or more
tropical storms will make landfall in the Caribbean (compared to an 82 percent aver
age in the last century) and a 74 percent chance for a Category 1 or 2 hurricane to
hit (compared to a 57 percent average). Does this forecast make you worry? Hopefully
at least it will make you think about your preparations.
Many believe that in a hurricane a boat is safest when well secured on land. If there
are more than two yachties in a room, there will probably also be someone who
believes you are better off on anchor or running from the storm. Running from the
storm works best if you are clairvoyant or aboard a cruise ship with no other choice.
I vividly remember the conversation on board the yacht FREE anchored on the very
exposed east coast of Puerto Rico as Tropical Storm Lenny tracked our way. Looking
at the proposed storm track, we thought we could easily make it to St. Martin and
Lenny would clearly go south. Instead, we put five anchors down in Ensenada
Fulladosa, Culebra (an island well known for its mangrove lined hurricane holes, but
we have too deep a draft to use them) and went ashore. We huddled in a cement
roofed hotel during the ensuing wild thunder and lightning storm while the main
brunt of Lenny (a very strong Category 4 hurricane) banged into St. Croix before
heading on to St. Martin and eventually causing damage all the way south to the
ABCs. Lenny sat on St. Martin for about 36 hours. Friends on S/VGinseng, anchored
in Simpson Bay Lagoon, had to abandon their boat and swim through debris to
shore in the middle of the storm. Their boat sank, but they eventually raised it,
cleaned it and continued cruising. The crew of the other yacht in our bay in Culebra,
a 50 foot motor vessel with two knownto be inadequate anchors, spent the night
motoring into the wind. Their boat was fine, but the crew quit cruising before the
next hurricane season.
The Boat US Hurricane Catastrophe Team members report they would prefer to
have their personal vessels well secured on land. What is well secured? It seems with
every hurricane disaster we learn a few new techniques. Some yards put the keel into
a pit, others have concrete pads with embedded tie downs, some have special cra
dles, and many rely on jack stands, hopefully supported on plywood and chained
together. Your choices will be limited by the yard you select, assuming you can
arrange a haul out if you wait until the hurricane is imminent.
Whether on land or on the hook, often the key risk factor is not how well secured
you are, but how well secured your neighbor is. One hot July day, as we readied our
boat for storage in a yard we thought would be safe, we noted on the far side of the
yard there was a smaller boat with sails bent on, rubber dinghy in the davits, bimini
and dodger installed and generally in the ready to launch mode, not stripped down
to reduce windage and be stored. Boatyard management assured us the boat was
owned by a local sailor who would certainly strip the boat in the unlikely event of a
hurricane. Two months later, Hurricane Georges tracked directly over the yard.
Unfortunately, during the frantic boat hauling activity prior to Georges' arrival, that
boat was moved next to FREE, and the owner was too busy to attend to his boat.
Luckily when his boat fell over it only made a glancing blow on our bow pulpit, bend
ing it, but not knocking us over, holing us or some other dreadful thing.
A glance at the map of tropical cyclones in the Atlantic since 1851 (see www.nhc.
noaa.gov/pastprofile) suggests it is difficult to hide with perfect certainty, but hun
dreds of cruisers take refuge below 11 N, putting up with the rain and heat. The
seemingly constant threat of tropical storm formation all summer can be wearing,
and so is living through one, but at least in Trinidad we hope FREE will be safe. In
the last 21 years of cruising, we have spent three hurricane seasons north of 11 N.
In our first cruising season we experienced our first tropical storm, Marco, off the
Dry Tortugas in Florida. Perhaps that is why we co signed an affidavit just before
going to inspect the boat after our last hurricane, Lenny. Be It Herein Declared:
While in the Caribbean, we will always be south of 11 N for the summer.
Other boaters make different plans. What will you do? Check out the Boat US
website www.boatus.com/hurricanes/swhurrprep guide.pdf for details on how to
prepare regardless of where you are. Good luck.


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$129owo0 pAM pows
Econ*rrcal Advery abeL
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Set up or bad Ioag
PasI devery

Ca10 ~ ~ Ro opr(2)37504wwcoemrnto

Compass Point Marina, 6300 Est. Frydenhoj, Suite 28,
St. Thomas, U.S.V.I. 00802

Tel: (340) 779-1660
Fax: (340) 779-2779

CG Cert. 42 passengers
Excellent condition $99,000

Twin helms, 3 staterooms
Great Condition $124,900

34' 1983Hunter Freshwater boat, well equipped
40' 2001Jeanneau Sun Odyssey, 3 strms, great condition
44' 1977 CSY Excellent cruiser, great condition
60' 1982Nautical Ktch 4 staterooms, great charter vessel


30' 2002 Hydrocat 300X Exp.CC Obv. Twr, Diesel Ymrs230 HP, exc. cond. 69,000.00
32' 2003 Sea Ray 350HP Mercruisers 95,000.00
34' 1989 Sea Ray Express Twin Diesels, 465 hrs. Genset, A/C 55,000.00
48' 1999 Dyna Craft MY Cruiser with, 435HP, 2 Strms, A/C, Low Hrs. 299,500.00

Call, fax or visit our website for a complete list of boats for sale

MULTHULLS: 42'Pearson 42478;GreatValue 45K1
82'DufourNautitech'95,10cab/10hd 795K 41'Bavaria 2003,Well Maintained 120K
58'Voyage 580 2005Luxuy Cat 990K 40'Bavara2002;GreatPrce 99K
45'Robertson& Caine'99,Well kept 260K 40'Beneteau M-405'94. Spacious 95K
44' Lagoon 440 2006 Owners Vrs. 575K 3'Be~teau 393 2W005;Wel-Pced 87K
41'Lagoon410s2'064 Available 199K 38'Freedom 1988;Great layout 95K
37' Fountaine Pajot Power Cat.2 avail. 185K 36' eneteau 361'O0,Very good cond. 75K
SAIL 36'Cheoy Lee ketch'71 Classic sailer 39K
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51'Beneteau Frersdylle15.5'86 169K 36'Dufour 36CC 2000; Giveaway price 65K
5O BeneteauOceanis 5007. Near new 299K 35'CamperNitolson '78 ebut eng. 49K
47'Gulfstar79;Spaclousgreatvalue 89K 33'Nautica '86,Spacious and Immac. 125K
46 Morgan 461 '82,Great Condition 95K 32'Beneeau321 199PerfectCuer 47K
46'Hunter466'02:lmmaculate 217K 32'Bavaria'03; Great Condition/ Price 59K
45' Downeaster'79. Rare Schooner 99K
45'Jeanneau45.2'00 Great Prel 109K POWER:
44'Mason 1987.Loaded/Beautiful 250K 63'kohnson Motor Yacht 91 Luxury 375K
44'CSYWalkover79;2 availablestart@ 65K 52'JMersonTrawler'89;4cab/4hd 144K
43'Gulfstar43 MKII 977Spacious 69K 48'Sunseeker Manhattan'97,3cb/2hd 325K
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42'Endeavour'90; Great liveaboard 99K 48'1988 Hi Star Trawler; Total Refit 199K
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42IslandPacket420,'1 Immaculate 289 www.bviyachtsales.com

TEL:,868 6344663 / 64 484 FAX: 66 634 4269
Contact rIIccs dynilr s nariem ~ t yml.corn Y A C H T S
wwv.yaclitwu~ord .coii/dyi ilaiiebrokcrage
www.d Ranmleimiari ne.coi

Large selection of Yachts & Power Boats
L@& SKwsiBIfsi~l oiu mFJ]ooin

:1 IM s if a vaila h5 o HLIFE- pu4
r Inffrar aa *n VK 1-

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--PBH ruwwiFwu


3 Corpus Christi. Public holiday in many places
5 World Environment Day. www.unep.org
5 6 Barbados International J/24 Open Championship.
12 St. Lucia Optimist and Laser Championship. St. Lucia Yacht Club (SLYC),
tel (758) 452-8350, secretary@stluciayachtclub.com,
12 Sovereign's Birthday. Public holiday in the BVI
12- 13 Caribbean Laser Championship, St. Maarten. St. Maarten Yacht Club
(SMYC), tel (599) 544-2075, fax (599) 544-2091, infodsmyc.com,
13 20 20th Annual Jamaica Ocho Rios International Jaz Festival.
19 Labour Day. Public holiday in Trinidad & Tobago
19 20 Scotiabank International Optimist Regatta, St Thomas, USVI.
St. Thomas Yacht Club (STYC), tel (340) 775-6320, fax (340) 775-3600,
info@styc.net, www.styc.net
19 20 The Saintes Regatta. Cercle Sportif Bas du Fort,
19 20 Caribbean One-Design Keelboat Championships, St. Maarten. SMYC
20 26 Errol Flynn Days, Jamaica. www.errolflynnmarina.com
21 Summer Solstice
21 Fete de la Musique, Martinique.
Free concerts, street events in Fort-de-France.
25 27 Statia / Nevis Offshore Regatta. SMYC
24 26 14th Annual St. Kitts Music Festival.
26 4 July HIHO Windsurfing Week, BVI. www.go-hiho.com
29 Fisherman's Birthday (St. Peter's Day).
Boat and dinghy races in many fishing communities
30-4 July International One Metre Championship 2010
(radio controlled sailing), Barbados. www.sailbarbados.com


1 VC Bird Day; public holiday in Antigua & Barbuda
2-3 19th Annual Firecracker 500 Race, BVI. West End Yacht Club (WEYC),
Tortola, BVI, tel (284) 496-8685, mvh@surfbvi.com, www.weyc.net
4 Independence Day (USA). Public holiday in Puerto Rico and USVI.
Carnival in St. John, USVI
4 Banks Regatta, Barbados. www.sailbarbados.com
5 6 St. Vincent Carnival. http://discoversvg.com
9- 11 Chief Minister's Cup Youth Regatta, Tortola.
Royal British Virgin Islands Yacht Club (RBVIYC), tel (284) 494-3286,
rbviyc@rbviyc.com, www.rbviyc.net
11 27th Harris Paints Regatta, Barbados. www.sailbarbados.com
14 Bastille Day. Public holiday in French West Indies
16 1 Aug Tobago Heritage Festival. www.tntisland.com/tobagoheritage.html
18 Lucky Horseshoe Regatta, Barbados. www.sailbarbados.com
20- 21 St. Lucia Carnival. www.stlucia.org
25 2 Aug Carriacou Regatta Festival. www.carriacouregatta.com
28 Carriacou Children's Education Fund Welcome Barbecue.
30 Carriacou Children's Education Fund Annual Auction.

All information was correct to the best of our knowledge at the time
this issue of Compass went to press but plans change,
so please contact event organizers directly for confirmation.
If you would like a nautical or tourism event listed FREE
in our monthly calendar, please send the name
and date(s)of the event and the name
and contact information of the organizing body to

FREE Caribbean Compass On-line FREE



Providing all vital services to
Trans-Atlantic Yachts!
Incl. Chandlery, Charts, Pilots, Rigging
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[ Bequila

appointed agents in
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Phone: 1 (784) 457-3000

EMAIL: bequiaboy01 @hotmail.com
PHONE: 1 (784) 532 8006
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PorF Elizabeth, next to Porthole Restaurant
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For full details see our website:
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Tel: (473) 443 8187 Fax: (473) 443 8290

We also handle Villa Rentals &
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or contact your local island agent



continued on next page -

& Shoreline Mini-Market
We serve breakfast,
lunch and dinner
Phone (784) 458-3458
A friendly atmosphere where you can sit and meet people.
Admiralty Bay, Bequia
Noelina & Lennox Taylor welcome you!

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TechNick Ltd.
Engineering, fabrication and
welding. Fabrication and repair of
stainless steel and aluminium items.
Nick Williams, Manager
Tel: (473) 536-1560/435-7887
S.I.M.S. Boatyard, True Blue, Grenada


[ Martinique

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The be5t ay to cle~r & pot Ct or boat 1
Connoe Aitnes Paints &Varnishes. Ma rine bpd atteie

Voiles Assistance

Didier and Maria
Sails & Canvas (repairs & fabrication]
located alt Carenanlilles dockyard
Open Mondau to Fridau 8- 1 2am 2-6pm
Saturday by appoinlmenl
tel/fax: (596] 596 74 88 32
e-mail: didier-el-maria~wanadoo.fr

Shipchandler, 'Artimer
Le Marin, Martinique

Book it now:
tom @ caribbeancompass.com
or contact your local island agent

St. Lucia


machining & fabrication
Managing Director
Lawrence Lim Chee Yung
alka 'Chinaman'.
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Faneation onpuplt, staneions, davts, nn ainplates,
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Rodney Bay Boatyard, Gros Islet, St. Lucia
Tel: (758) 485-0665 or (758) 384-0665
e-mail: limcheyung34@yatoo.com

Now reopened
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before Bank of St.Lucia
at the Rodney Bay Boat ard.
Local menus and specials available!
Open Monday-Saturday from 09.00 until...
Tel: (758) 715-5458

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Channel I1- To.rnado'
Tel: (758) 715-8719

L'Essence Massage
Karen's special Yacht Crew Massage"

Rodney Bay Marina, Tel: (758) 715 4661
E-Mail: Lessencemassage @spray.se
Karen O. Roberts
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EY Sail repairs, biminis,
awnings, new sails,
Rigging, splicing,
cockpit cushions,
servicing of winches.
Agents for Doyle,
Tel: (758) 452-8648
or (758) 584- 0291 Furlex & Profurl

continued on next page


l iF 1a11, l tn 1 Nil III h -

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I a r in e ie el nip,nir e


sails & canvas

4 7 06


1975 German Frers 39ft,
2 sets racing sails, StLucia duty
paid. Best Offer
19871 rwin44 119.500 US
199JearneauSO22. 80.COUS
1981 CT54 175.000 US
1986 Oyster435 135.0O3GBP
E-mail Yachtsalesdsl-yachting com
Tel (758) 452 8531

fiberglass, vgc, new engine
2007, excellent live aboard
and cruiser. GPS, RADAR,
VHF, Auto Pilot, EPIRB, SSB,
Water Maker, Air-Con, Solar
Panels, Wind Generator &
more. Full specs at www.free-
Looking for a fast sale so
Lucia. E-mail venus46@live.com
or Tel (596) 696 90 74 29

g.prado@wanadoo.fr Tel:
1(596)69697 69 1
[/! ]

x 14' ISLANDER30MK11,
p Ford Well maintained and
Bequia equipped. US$1900.
Located in Carriacou
Moe info:
E-mail islander@spiceisle.com

where is US$11.00D
Contact Clint or Orton King
Tel (784) 458-3099/3831
493-2573, 532-8007

J/39 1991.Fast and comfort-
able, well maintained and
brought to the Caribbean on
containership. Best boat for
comfortable fast cruising and
club racing. Ext. overhauled,
new mast and rod rigging,
large sail wardrobe and
many extras. Ready to sail,
interesting price of US$55000
reflects current location and
move to larger world cruiser.
E-mail cochisestellendam
zonnet.nl Tel (31) 655155907/
(868) 741-1085

o~ aTamacn5orCn w LdogWo


4495, Skype turbulence 42921 rated cover, 4700 US hospital
www.turbdencelimited.com direct filing nework Hghest
Deductible Hospital option
SAILBOAT PROPS used 3 blade age 30-34 $3 monthly
from 13 to 22 diameter wwwprotexplancom E-mil
Selftailing winches, Barlow, info@protexplancom, Te
Barient, Lewmar E-mail (604) 724-7384
Tel (758) 452 8531 EXPLORE THE BEAUTIFUL ST.
SAILS AND CANVAS our Catalina 36, Rhiannon
EXCEPTIONALLY SPECIAL After 5 years exploring the
DEALS at http://doylecarib- Caribbean she is now avalable
bean.com/specials.htm for charter in New Brunswck
from 15 May to 15 Sept Visit

CRUISER 1988 Center cock-
pit, single owner, lovingly
maintained. Sailed through-
out the Caribbean and now
located in Trinidad. Ready
for you to start cruising tomor-
row. USD 189,999 E-mail

bath &cabin, 2-300hp Volvo,
40 + cruising speed, only 200
hrs, sacrifice asking $69K
OBO, includes trailer, exec.
cond. & maint., seldom used,
see pics & specs at www.
SunSeekerVI.com, Tel (941)
730-5036 Make Offers!
Great condition. New
upholstery & king size mat-
tress. 2 cabins. radar, GPS,
chart plotter, wind gen,
new solar panel, 9' Carib

srucTea or mniK aluminium y aingny wih OB. i-uel 14U gl uae skills. Aragorn Tel
Meta in France. It has a water 100 gl. Also included 2u84) 542-0586 E-mail
retracting keel, allowing entry is $2000 worth of high qual- dreadeye@surfbvi.com.
into shallow waters (one ty paint to repaint the decks
metre) o beaching to clean and hull. Lots of extras inc ..- .
andpaintthehull. Itisidealfor guides, brand new dive
someone wanting a strong, gear, kayak, paddle board. CARRIACOU LAND, Lots and
dryandreliableboattocruise Bargain $49,000. Located multi acre tracts. Great
long distances. The boat was in the Grenadines. Te views overlooking Southern
specifically designed to be a Karen (784) 488-8464. E-mail Grenadines and Tyrrel Bay.
travelling home and has sydno71@hotmail.com www.caribtrace.com
served the owner, now need-
ing to retire, for some twenty .
years during which he cruised
nearly twice around the BEQUIA TOP SOIL Best quality LA POMPE, BEQUIA
world. It was fitted out inside by the bucket o by the truck Large 2 bedroom house and/
to very high standards with load. Bythewell inpg. Osyn, or bed studio apartment.
greatcarebya mastercrafts- Tel (784) 457-3147/497-3692 Big verandah and patio,
man using fine woods and E-mil bunyana@yoo.crn stunning view, cool breeze.
the best equipment. For more Internet cable TV. 2 weeks
information E-mail Gerry PURE BEQUIA HONEY availa- minimum, excellent long-
Noel rajahlaut@fastmail.fm ble from Trinity Point Apiary term rates. Tel: (784) 495 1177
Lying in Venezuela. Bee Keeper Hodge Taylor in email: louisjan@vincysurf.com
280ml Jars. \Wholesale and
Tel (868) 739-6449 bequiaboy@yahoo.com Waterway condo near
www.crackajacksailing.com Bequia Sweet Sweet, Sweet Kennedy Space Center, all

You C e NEW 17.35M SELDEN MAST Sent www.caribtrace.com
n th by mistake, it is an irmast funding
mast including futer, lights,
spreaders, steps, spi tracks, com-
lete with a without rigging. MEDICAL INSURANCE
Mcke offers. TeliFcv (473) 439 US$5,000,000 worldwide "A"

training available now in
Antigua by recognied com-
pany ONDECK. Competent
Crew to Yachtmaster Ocean
available. Please call (268)
562 6696 E mail eb@ondeck-
oceanracing.com or visit us in
Antigua Yacht Club Marina,
Falmouth Harbour, Antigua.
marine/land mechanical servic-
es, eledrical/refrigeration/weld-
ing/diesel/outboard repair.
Moorings available.
VHF 68 KMS" Tel (784)530-
8123/570-7612 E-mail vanessa

US 50 per word include nome,
address and numbers in count.
Line drawings/photos accompany-
ing classified are US$10. Pre-poid
by Ihe 15th of Ihe month No replies




3oMQ* -



A&C Yacht Brokers Martinique MP
ABC Manne Curacao 21
Admiral Yacht Insurance UK 11
ARC Dynamic St Lucia MP
Art & Design Antigua MP
Art Fabrik Grenada MP
B & C Fuel Dock Petite Martinique 25
Bahia Redonda Manna Venezuela 22
Barefoot Yacht Charters St Vincent 17
Barrow Sails & Canvas Trinidad MP
Bay Island Yachts Trinidad 42
Bequia Venture Bequia MP
Blue Water Cruising USA 30
Boatyard Bar & Bistro St Lucia MP
Budget Marine Sint Maarten 2
BVI Yacht Sales Tortola 42
Camper & Nicholsons Grenada 12
Caraibe Greement Martinique 15
Caraibe Greement Martinique MP
Caraibe Yachts Guadeloupe 39
Canbbean Manne Electrical Trinidad MP
Canbbean Propellers Ltd Trinidad MP
Canbbean Woods Bequia MP

Carnacou Silver Diving
Clippers Ship
Cooper Manne
Curagao Manne
Dockwise Yacht Transport
Dominica Marine Center
Dominican Rep Cruising Guide
Dopco Travel
Down Island Real Estate
Doyle Offshore Sails
Doyle Offshore Sails
Doyle's Guides
Echo Manne Jotun Special
Edward William Insurance
Femando's Hideaway
Food Fair
Gittens Engines
Grenada Manne
Grenadines Sails
Horizon Yacht Charters

St Maarten
Dominican Rep.

International School
lolaire Enterprises
Island Dreams
Island Water World
Johnson Hardware
Jones Mantime
Kingfisher Manne Services
LEssence Massage
Lulley's Tackle
Mango Bay
Marc One Manne
Mangot Beach Club
Manna Zar-Par
Mclntyre Bros Ltd
Mid Atlantic Yacht Services
Northern Lights Generators
Perkins Engines
Petit St Vincent
Porthole Restaurant
Power Boats
Renaissance Marina
Rodney Bay Sails

St Lucia
Sint Maarten
St Lucia
St Croix
St Lucia
St Lucia
Dominican Re
St Lucia

p. 26



Santa Barbara Resorts Curagao
Sea Services Martinique
Spice Island Manne Grenada
St Thomas Yacht Sales St Thomas
SVG Air St Vincent
Technick Grenada
Tikal Arts & Crafts Grenada
Tony's Engineering Services St Lucia
Trade Winds Cruising Bequia
Trans Caraibes Rallies Guadeloupe
Trinidad Manne Industry Trinidad
Turbulence Sails Grenada
Tyrrel Bay Yacht Haulout Carriacou
United Insurance Barbados
Vemasca Venezuela
Virgin Gorda Yacht Harbour Virgin Gorda
Voiles Assistance Martinique
Wallace & Co Bequia
Wallilabou Anchorage St Vincent
WIND Martinique
Xanadu Manne Venezuela

CW = Caribbean wide
MP = Market Place pages 43 to 45

INSTRUMENTS, Discountprices:
\ wAVnoafn/ /roHcicc ies ccrn

36HP Trinidad cell (868) 650-1914
E-Mail JanDutch@tsttffnettt

CHARTERS in Frenchtown,
St.Thomas, USVI. General
experience in all facets of
boat maintenance and
boat handling is required.
E-mail resume to

SALES PERSON needed. This
is a full time position for a
person with excellent boat
andling skills as well as
communication and lan-

CHAGUARAM""11 ,,11I~I~I1

TrinidadI s Marine-Industry Power h o..

Whej~oke'in the CarIkoan will you find

V, ~ lll

A BotingCenre blowthe urrcaneBel
Locaed i th midle f a atue Reerv
hio ftenrki_ Taxi, but frli~yfi Ag 1n, s
Bvib Aumllen 6 Pst Mce Aenc
SoilBui~fs ANtp~r Spciem
65ilardl HarnisA SlragoFud
(anot K~yACentr
(handenn Hzrdzri iore
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itrr StiQ IHouingilotlfa

Pilailil RgtqA hkrlthp
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I'linenace& (nnng Ofilmel140 eplyee wth niathed i-dethtecnial apco
Kiti Worers Uppier

Pairlingi~arrinhi;g A felinishing ipciahm

P~ivibng & ydraulc Swi
Pjqect& Yuh ftniemeniCan m
P~jrp K ropier %eciaisti
Kerrgervcin k-c~n pittala

Resivni, Clle hop 9Si
F~ign. ASlaiilm ler Spiititts IN A
Saff~y Eqipmet suplit JIF



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Stl. I n, Cr1i t 44J3.' b Mrim + aMJa.T411
SLLlt. *acB: 75122 GiMe:+ 474"a350e *C imse: + USLASt.2144

what's new?

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mlat veriually rnimnate h C tin st nlfarCes
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