Title: Caribbean Compass
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Permanent Link: http://ufdc.ufl.edu/UF00095627/00016
 Material Information
Title: Caribbean Compass the Caribbean's monthly look at sea & shore
Physical Description: v. : ill. ; 35 cm.
Language: English
Publisher: Compass Pub.
Place of Publication: Bequia St. Vincent and the Grenadines
Bequia St. Vincent and the Grenadines
Publication Date: June 2008
Copyright Date: 2009
Frequency: monthly
regular
 Subjects
Subject: Boats and boating -- Periodicals -- Caribbean Area   ( lcsh )
Yachting -- Periodicals -- Caribbean Area   ( lcsh )
Genre: periodical   ( marcgt )
Spatial Coverage: Saint Vincent and the Grenadines
 Record Information
Bibliographic ID: UF00095627
Volume ID: VID00016
Source Institution: University of Florida
Holding Location: University of Florida
Rights Management: All rights reserved by the source institution and holding location.
Resource Identifier: oclc - 54085008
issn - 1605-1998

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SI B





C, M PASS


The Caribbean's Monthly Look at Sea & Shore
www.caribbeancompass.com




I Hurricane
Season Info
Special Pull Out Section....... 27





Rally to New Sights
Guadeloupe to Cuba............. 12

Bonjour, Haiti
A Step Back in Time ............ 20




s^J^^^^^ H !


Ha
10 R



Busir
Eco-
Reg
Dest
All A
This
Meri
Sailc
Islan
Cart


- ... .. ..-
il Colombia!
seasons to Go ................. 26


Very Fishy...
Big Catch for the Barbie ....... 42


IPRTET


ness Briefs ..................... 8
News ...................... .... 10
atta News...................... 16
inations...............20 and 24
shore.................32 and 33
Cruising Life................... 34
dian Passage............... 35
>rs' Horoscope................ 36
Id Poets.......................... 36
oons............................... 36


( I ,I I, h I ...

Tel: (784) 457 3409, Fax: (784) 457 3410,

Editor...... ........................... Sally Erdle
sally@caribbeancompass.com
Assistant Editor...................Elaine Ollivierre
jsprat@caribsurf.com
Advertising & Distribution........Tom Hopman
tom@caribbeancompass.com
Art, Design & Production......Wilfred Dederer
wlde@carlbbeancompass.com
Accounting.................................Debra Davis
debra@caribbeancompass. com
Compass Agents by Island:
iL.'. 1 i ,, ,,, ,,, ,, LucyTulloch

i ..i. i .. .. .. ...




uppld by oth,, ,,pn
-. .. ... r i ,,,, ,, i ,,- -


Cruising Crossword............... 37
Word Search Puzzle..............37
Cruising Kids' Corner............ 38
Dolly's Deep Secrets............ 38
Book Reviews..............39 41
Cooking with Cruisers.....44, 45
Readers' Forum...................46
Caribbean Marketplace......51
What's On My Mind..............53
Classified Ads ....................54


. .. ..... ..... ..










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mandunmine@cantv net


ISSN 1605- 1998


JUNE

9 Queen's Birthday (UK). Public holiday in Anguilla
14- 15 Harris Paints Regatta, Barbados. www.barbadosyachtclub.com
15 Fathers' Day. Public holiday in Puerto Rico
18 FULL MOON
19 Labour Day. Public holiday in Trinidad
19- 22 Scotiabank Opti Regatta, St. Thomas, USVI. www.styc.net
20- 24 La ExpoNdutica Anzoategui (boat show), Lecherias, Venezuela.
www.enoriente.com/expomorro
21 Summer Solstice
21 Financial Services Challenge Race, BVI. Royal BVI Yacht Club (RBVIYC),
tel (284) 494-3286, rbviyc@rbviyc.com, www.rbviyc.net
21 International Music Day: Music and Mariners Festival.
Marina Bas-du-Fort, Guadeloupe. (590 690) 72 88 09
21 22 Caribbean One-Design Keelboat Championships,
St. Maarten. www.tropicalsailloft.com
24 Battle of Carabobo Day. Public holiday in Venezuela
26 28 12th Annual St. Ktts Music Festival. www.stkittsmusicfestival.net
27 29 Fishermen's Festival, Charlotteville, Tobago
27 July 8 St. Vincent Carnival. www.carnivalsvg.com
28 Jul 6 North American Optimist Championships (OPTINAM),
Curacao. www.optinam2008.org
29 Fisherman's Birthday (St. Peter's Day).
Boat and dinghy races in many fishing communities
29 July 6 HIHO Windsurfing Week, BVI. www.go-hiho.com
TBA Green Island Weekend, Antigua. Antigua Yacht Club (AYC),
tel/fax (268) 460-1799, yachtclub@candw.ag, www.antiguayachtclub.com
TBA Morgan's Run 2008, rally from Cartagena, Colombia to Old Providence
and San Andres. www.DestinationCartagena.com/morgansrun.html



JULY

1 Territory Day. Public holiday in BVI
2 Curacao Flag Day. Public holiday in Curacao
3 Emancipation Day. Public holiday in USVI
4 Independence Day (USA). Public holiday in Puerto Rico and USVI.
Carnival in St. John, USVI
4-5 17th Annual Firecracker 500 Race, Tortola, BVI.
West End Yacht Club (WEYC), tel (284) 495-1002, fax (284) 495-4184,
mvh@surfbvi.com, www.weyc.net
5 Independence Day. Public holiday in Venezuela
7 CARICOM Day. Public holiday in CARICOM countries
8 21 St. Lucia Carnival. www.stlucia.org
11 14 Premier's Cup International Youth Regatta, Tortola, BVI. RBVIYC
11 20 Dominica Dive Fest. www.discoverdominica.com/site/divefest.cfm
12 Clean-Up Dive, Bonaire. www.dive-friends-bonaire.com
12 Aug 2 Tobago Heritage Festival
13 20th Bastille Kingfish Tourney, St. Thomas, USVI. (340) 774-5206
14 Bastille Day. Public holiday in French West Indies
15 Luis Munoz Rivera's Birthday. Public holiday in Puerto Rico
16- 19 3rd Freelander Fishing Festival, Marina Bas-du-Fort, Guadeloupe.
www.guadeloupefishingclub.com/calendrier.html
18 FULL MOON
19 Lowell Wheatley Pursuit Race, Anegada, BVI
20 28 Statia Carnival
21 Schoelcher Day. Public holiday in Martinique
24 Birth of Sim6n Bolivar. Public holiday in Venezuela
24 27 USVI Lifestyle Festival, St. Thomas. www.usvimf.com
25 Constitution Day. Public holiday in Puerto Rico
25 27 Rebellion Days. Public holiday in Cuba
26 Jose Celso Barbosa's Birthday. Public holiday in Puerto Rico
26 Aug 5 Antigua Carnival. www.antiguacarnival.com
27 Aug 3 Pro Kids Windsurf Event, Bonaire
27 Aug 4 43nd Carriacou Regatta Festival. www.carriacouregatta.com
30 Carriacou Children's Education Fund Potluck Barbecue,
Carriacou Yacht Club. boatmillie@aol.com
30 Aug 3 Saba Carnival. www.sabatourism.com
TBA Nevis Culturama (Carnival)


All information was correct to the best of our knowledge at the time this issue of
Compass went to press but plans change, so please contact event organizers
directly for confirmation.
If you would like a nautical or tourism event listed FREE in our calendar, please
send the name and date(s) of the event and the name and contact information
of the organizing body to
sally@caribbeancompass.com



Cover Photo: Tim Wright / www.photoaction.com
Adela at Antigua Classic Yacht Regatta


0-

















Info







Hazards to Navigation Off Tobago
Sailors should beware of 12 Fish Aggregation
Devices (FADS) that have been placed in the waters


off the north coast of Tobago. Each FAD consists of
two bamboo rafts tied in tandem and anchored.
Each FAD is marked by a flagged buoy. The two rafts

s9


(each nine to 12 feet long) comprising each FAD are
connected by 35 metres of polypropylene rope. The
FADS are located in an area roughly between
1118'N, 60O34'W and 1123'N, 60 58'W. They are
apparently unlit.
For more information phone (868) 471-4696.
In the same general area, oil-drilling operations are
underway. If you see the anchored drilling rig, you are
advised to give it a wide berth, maintaining a dis-
tance of at least 500 metres. In addition to the rig,
anchors in sets of eight have been pre-laid in other
well exploration sites. Vessels are also advised to give
the anchor marker buoys a wide berth. Relevant
Notices to Mariners will be broadcast on North Post
Radio (Trinidad). North Post Radio monitors VHF
Channel 16 and MF 2182 USB, then uses VHF Channels
24, 25, 26, or 27.
US Navy Revives Caribbean Fleet
The US Navy announced in April that it has re-estab-
lished the US Fourth Fleet to increase American naval
presence in the Caribbean and Latin America.
Admiral Gary Roughead, the chief of naval opera-
tions, said the decision to establish a separate fleet for
the region "recognizes the immense importance of
maritime security in the southern part of the Western
Hemisphere, and sends a strong signal to all the civil
and military maritime services in Central and Latin
America." The Fourth Fleet, established in 1943, was a
major US navy command during World War II when it
was used to enforce blockades and protect against
enemy submarines and raiders. It was eliminated in
the 1950s when US Second Fleet (Atlantic) took over
its responsibilities.
Tall Ships in Christiansted
Two tall ships were spotted at the Gallows Bay com-
mercial dock in St. Croix recently. The one to the right
(see photo next page) is the Roseway The 137-foot
Rosewaywas built in 1925 in Essex, Massachusetts, as a
private fishing yacht and later was used as a pilot vessel.
-Continued on next page

o's north coast anchorages such as Englishman's Bay,
r here -are unspoiled and uncrowded, but when sailing
re watch out for FADs and oil rig anchors


Phase one of Camper & Nicholsons Port Louis Marina is now open.
Find us in the Lagoon, St. George's, Grenada.


GRENADA
WEST INDIES


I


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i.... page
S: : i .I. i ,,:' : Historic Landmark, one of
only 150 ships so designated. She now does charters
and sail training. On the left is the Amistad replica (see
Compass, May 2008), making an unannounced visit
on her way from Barbados to Charleston,
South Carolina.
For more information visit www worldoceanschool.
org and www amistadamerica.org.

Carib Canoe Crossing to Dominica
On May 2nd, the 60-foot traditional Carib canoe
Youmoulicou paddled into Scotts Head Bay,
Dominica, having departed Grand Riviere in the north
of Martinique in the early morning hours. The event
commemorated the way the pre-Columbian Kalinago
people paddled their canoes up the Caribbean chain
of islands from South America to colonize each of the
islands in the chain. Although their craft was a tradi-
tional dugout canoe, the Youmoulicou paddlers were


Left: A pair of lovelies:
Freedom Schooner Amistad
and Roseway gracing the
Christiansted waterfront


Right: Visitors are welcome at
Cuba's famous yacht club,
which celebrated 16 years of
promoting recreational
boating last month


decked out in modern protective
clothing, including hats, sunglasses
and PFDs. The cross-channel dis-
tance is approximately 25 miles.
On arrival in Dominica, the two
dozen paddlers were greeted by
Caribs in traditional dress, flag-
waving children and a corps of
drummers, and a blessing ceremony was performed.
The KARISKO Association of Martinique is in its sec-
ond year of a seven-year project to recreate the sea
travel of the Kalinago people from their ancestral
lands in the South American Amazon Basin up through
each of the Caribbean islands to what
is today Puerto Rico.
Seethe :- : : /
mixx777/C :- : ..

Happy Birthday, Hemingway Yacht Club!
Club Ndutico Internacional Hemingway
(Hemingway International Yacht Club) of Havana,


Cuba, celebrated its 16th anniversary on May 21st.
The only club of its kind in Cuba, CNIH has nearly two
thousand members from all over the world.
Its founder and commodore is former naval officer
Jose Miguel Diaz Escrich. After the 1959 Revolution,
there was virtually no recreational boating in Cuba,
but he felt that sector should be developed. As Elena
Pimiento wrote in the June 2003 issue of Compass: "He
became a consultant for nautical tourism and pro-
posed founding a new yacht club at Marina
Hemingway, seven miles west of Havana. At the time,
all Cuban yacht clubs were closed. There had been


,a.-


many clubs prior to 1960, but the perception of them
as elitist, exclusionary organizations of wealthy capital-
ists made the creation of a new and different one dif-
ficult. Nevertheless, with great effort, Diaz Escrich was
able to clear the way to open the first post-revolution-
ary yacht club in Cuba.
"The club is non-profit and completely independent,
something boaters elsewhere take for granted but
unusual in a socialist country. No funds come from the
government; club income is from dues, donations and
the members' bar on the first floor of the clubhouse.
Continued on next page


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,-[ :i: i, :,' 1 i: ', [. : are used for club
functions and nautical events, including hosting
international sailboat races, fishing tournaments, junior
sailing regattas and the national kayak and
water-ski teams."
Temporary membership is highly recommended for
visiting boaters. Annual membership dues are very
reasonable for those who plan to stay awhile or to
return often.
For more information contact
yachtclub@cnih.mh. cyt cu.


helping hand if someone needs assistance. The BYC
allows visiting yachtsmen to collect water in jerry cans
free of charge, will hold mail, and can send or receive
e-mail on behalf of visiting yachtsmen e-mail
address byc@sunbeach.net."
For more information
visit www barbadosyachtclub com.

Weather for Soufridre, St. Lucia
The Soufriere Marine Management Area (SMMA) in
St. Lucia is building a new website. Until the new
SMMA website is online, the current weather informa-


Compass Contributors' News
Compass contributors are making waves!
Julia Bartlett has not only bought a new old boat,
which she's refurbishing in the Western Caribbean,
she's also had a novel published to positive reviews
(including one in Compass, of course!).
See www sampasystems com/bortlett-book htm.


Ever anchored below the Pitons in a really strong blow? Check the Soufriere area weather before you go


Barbados YC Says Welcome
Sharon Christie of the Barbados Yacht Club, located
on Carlisle Bay, wrote recently to Chris Doyle: "We
love to see visiting yachtsmen and there is always
someone around who will give information or lend a


RENAISSANCE
MARINA


tion for the Soufriere area can be found at www.
pitons.net/weather/weather.htm or www.wunder-
ground.com/weatherstation/WXDailyHistory.
asp?ID=ISOUFRIE1.
For more information on the SMMA contact smma@candwlc.


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m mun a th-- *^**^ *Li'.1i-a 'F-.ri '*1
iWWf s 1 ': O': f l .J.a .t.*r **ni ...J..nc.u'i T2r1.
ctItdiqi H Nr..?Ot~weiiH^tj^^eii^i^ iitBi~


And Jo-Anne Nina Sewlal, who is studying for a
doctorate at the University of the West Indies in
Trinidad, recently received the Vincent Roth Award
from the American Arachnology Society for her work
in documenting the spiders of the Eastern Caribbean.

Welcome Aboard!
In this issue of Compass we welcome new advertis-
ers Heineken Regatta Curacao, page 17; Seasick
Prevention Clinics of Trinidad, page 43; Dockyard
Electrics, KNJ Mariner, Navtech Electronics and Lennox
Stewart Boat Work, all of Trinidad; and Marigot Hill of
St. Lucia; in the Caribbean Compass Market Place,
pages 51 through 53. Good to have you with us!


U i'-J ^ Is rrrij '1La** **-;"*t r.* ,- Trprlj~r ll f j;? l'ri| i n; ufI?'jf


(alrtic-t t~iiF rn th~~~ idtd <* irarhmgrt ar i uI dqit^'
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BUSINESS


CHIEFS


Port Louis Helps Bring American Airlines to Grenada
Port Louis and Camper & Nicholsons Marinas have
paid over ECS1 million to American Airlines on behalf
of the Government of Grenada to ensure that the
Spice Island gets non-stop American Airlines service.
The Government's Airlift Committee was tasked with
raising US$1.5 million to cover the bond that was post-
ed by government to secure the American Airlines
flights. From November 20th 2008, American Airlines
has agreed to schedule a 148-passenger Boeing 737
to depart Miami at 5:00PM and arrive in Grenada
three hours later. The plane will then overnight in
Grenada, and then return to Miami departing at 8:30
the following morning.
Not only does this commitment increase direct US
passenger traffic into the island by over 1,000 seats a
week but it also enables anyone in the Continental US
to connect to and from the flight in one day.
For further information on Port Louis Marina see ad
on page 5
News from Errol Flynn Marina, Jamaica
Jamaica's Errol Flynn Marina and shipyard offers
highly competitive rates for lift and launch using their
Marine Travelift, starting at US$75 for a 30-foot yacht.
Long-term dry storage fees are 30 cents per foot per
day, with discounts available for payment for six
months or more in advance.
For marina clientele, wi-fi access is free and pass-
word-controlled with the free use of computers during
office hours. Also on offer are the marina's Information
Center and Concierge Services. These include infor-
mation for visitors to both Jamaica and the
Caribbean region as a whole, and range from places
of interest in Jamaica, to such topics as transiting the
Panama Canal, cruising in Cuba and much more.
For more information on Errol Flynn Marina
see ad on page 22
St. Vincent's Barefoot Goes Green
To encourage environmental protection, Barefoot
Yacht Charters of Blue Lagoon, St. Vincent & the
Grenadines, has launched its "Barefoot Goes Green"
and "Sail Green" campaigns. Owner/manager Mary
Barnard explains: "While we may be a small, local
yacht charter company, we are doing whatever nec-
essary to lead the way forward in this industry, towards
sustainable, environmentally-friendly chartering." At
their full-service marina facility, they are installing a
state-of-the art sewage treatment system, and are
also catching rainwater and re-cycling grey water for
watering the gardens.
Charter guests will be presented with a small potted
Casuarina or Coconut plant at the start of their char-
ter and will be encouraged to off-set the carbon
emissions resulting from their air travel by planting
these in the Grenadines to compensate for depletion
of vegetation by livestock and weather systems.
In addition to developing a "Green Pledge" which
all yacht charter skippers will be asked to sign before
setting sail, the company will also be stocking their
boutique with a range of eco-friendly products includ-
ing biodegradable soaps, shampoos, detergents,
cleaning agents and "Green T-shirts". A percentage


I -Rn
YANUAEFVP


of the sale proceeds will be invested in local environ-
mental efforts.
For more information on Barefoot Yacht Charters &
Marine Centre see ad on page 13.
New Director for Virgin Islands Group
The Virgin Islands Charter Yacht League (VICL) is a
40-year-old association of private, crewed charter
yachts. The VICL Board of Governors recently
announced their new Director Erik Ackerson.
Originally from Kansas City where he was a profes-
sional chef then a food service territory sales manag-
er, Erik made the Virgin Islands his home in 1998, taking
over the reins as General Manager of Quality Food
Corporation until it was sold last year.
As the current President of the Texas Society of the
Virgin Islands, it is the community involvement and
money raised for local on-island charities through the
annual Chili Cook-Off, one of the largest and most
popular fundraising events of the year, which brings
Ackerson the greatest satisfaction and finds him busy
during the month of August.
A Water Island resident, he is a member of Water
Island Search and Rescue, Water Island Civic
Association and the Navy League as well as a Red
Cross volunteer.
For more information on the Virgin Islands Charter
League contact Erik at info@vicl.org.
News from Ondeck, Antigua
Ondeck, the UK's fastest growing sail charter com-
pany and power and sailing school, has announced
an exclusive partnership with Boatshed, the largest
yacht brokerage company in the world. The new rela-
tionship, which was announced at the recent Stanford
Antigua Sailing Week, will see Boatshed locate its
Antiguan business operations in Ondeck's facilities,
and see Ondeck become the company's official sail


training supplier in Antigua.
Ondeck's successful Antiguan operation is
equipped to take complete beginners to seasoned
sailors out on the water. The company is also
renowned for its match racing, sail training and cruis-
ing charter events.
Commenting on the partnership, Sam Sainsbury,
Commercial Manager at Ondeck, said, "We are
delighted to be working with Boatshed in Antigua.
They are a great, fresh company and we are looking
forward to training members of the team and getting
Boatshed involved in the many events and regattas


FRED MARINE


we run in Antigua."
Roger Bailey, Sales and Marketing Director at
Boatshed, said, "We are very excited about partner-
ing with Ondeck and see our two companies as hav-
ing a similar outlook on the world of boating. Together
we can offer customers loads of great boats, training
and chartering while continuing to expand our busi-
ness in Antigua."
Meanwhile, Ondeck has pledged its continued sup-
port to its trainee scheme following the astounding
success of one of its members. Samara (Nickey)
Emmanuel, 23, joined Ondeck in March 2007 as a
non-sailor and following a year of training and hands-
on experience, is embarking on a challenge of a life-
time: completing the Atlantic Challenge from Antigua
to Portsmouth, UK. Nickey has worked with Ondeck for
the past year as part of the company's trainee pro-
gramme. Prior to joining, she was unable to swim and
had not been aboard a sailboat. A year later, Nickey
has learnt to swim proficiently and is sailing to a stan-
dard that means she will soon be capable of skipper-
ing the company's vessels.
Liz Holder, head of Ondeck's Antiguan operation,
commented, "Nickey is very ambitious and driven. It is
not often you find a young woman on the island who
will take on the challenge of learning to swim and
push to skipper her own vessel. We are proud of the
apprenticeships we offer here and are delighted to
see the results of the hard work put in by Nickey and
our other apprentices."
Nickey will join the 32-strong team aboard Ondeck's
Farr 65s for the Atlantic Challenge. The boats left from
Nelson's Dockyard, Antigua on May 6th and will sail
via the Azores to the Historic Naval Dockyard of
Portsmouth, UK- the same route as Nelson himself
once took.
For more information visit www ondeck.co.uk.


Go, girls! Women can hone their sailing
and cruising skills at BVI Escapes'


BVI Cruising Courses for Women
Offshore Sailing School's CEO, Doris Colgate, started
women's programs in 1990 to attract more women to
sailing and empower women to take charge of their
lives through sailing. Now thousands of women have
gravitated to the variety of activities her efforts
spawned, from focused seminars at all-sail boat shows
to exciting hands-on learning vacations.
Continued on next page


Guadeloupe F.W.I.


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SERVICES GOODS FOR RENT
Mechanics and Electricity Genuine parts Yanmar & Tohatsu High pressure cleaners 150/250bars
Boat Maintenance Basic spare parts (filters, impellers, belts) Electrical tools
Engine diagnosis Filtration FLEETGUARD Diverse hand tools
Breakdown service 24/7 Anodes,Shaft bearings Vacuum cleaner for water
Haulout and hull sand blasting Electric parts, batteries Scaffolding
Equipment for rent Primers and Antifouling International
Technical shop Various lubricants

LEAVE YOUR BOAT IN SKILLED HANDS


Y% W*N


I m












-ontinuedfrom previous page

Women's Escape Weeks in 2008 include several dif-
ferent on-water retreats three in sailing and one for
operating powerboats. Fast Track to Cruising is the
school's most popular program. These exclusive vaca-
tions start with a three- or four-day Learn to Sail course
aboard Colgate 26s, followed immediately by a
Bareboat Cruising Preparation or Live Aboard Cruising
course on 44- to 49-foot sailing yachts.
In 2008, the Fast Track to Cruising Women's Escapes
are based in the British Virgin Islands, June 18th to 29th
and October 15th to 26th. No more than four women
are taught on a boat at a time, each by an accom-
plished Offshore Sailing School woman instructor.
The ten-day all-inclusive BVI package includes two
comprehensive courses Learn to Sail and Live
Aboard Cruising three certifications, five nights
ashore, six nights living aboard, parties, most meals
while aboard, gala graduation celebration, course
textbooks, sailing gloves, and a 24-hour mini-cruise


without the instructor aboard at the end
of the course.
Another option is for women who relish speed but
lack the skills to take command of a power yacht. A
Fast Track to Power Cruising getaway November 9th
to 15th allows women to learn aboard new Moorings
46 power cats while cruising the BVI.
For more information visit www.offshoresailing.com.

St. Lucia Game Fishing at Marigot Bay
The Marina at Marigot Bay is once again a sponsor
and the host marina for the popular St. Lucia Billfish
Tournament, offering complimentary berthing to all com-
petitors. The 18th annual International Billfish Tournament
runs from September 11th through 14th. Teams will
attempt to beat the record a 707-pound Blue Marlin.
Last year the competition saw 23 participating boats
and this year organizers expect that figure to double.
An all-party lay-day with a swimsuit fashion show and
entertainment is scheduled for anglers and spectators.
The St. Lucia Game Fishing Association is the major


























dI



Can you beat
that? The Marina
at Marigot Bay
continues
to support
St. Lucia's
International
Billfish
Tournament
complimentary
berths here are
a perk for
competitors


event organizer. Prizes range from a Suzuki Jeep for
the angler that beats the current record, to cash priz-
es and trophies.
For berth bookings for the tournament contact
marina@marigotbaycom
Horizon Grenada 'Sail & Classic Cricket'
Horizon Yacht Charters of Grenada has launched a
seven-night "Sail & Classic Cricket Package" for
October 9th through 16th, aimed at sailors and cricket
fans seeking adventure, cricket, island-hopping, tours
and live music.
The Grenada Cricket Classics is an annual event
that has grown in popularity since it began in 2004.
The focus of the weekend is on the games between
Grenada, Barbados and Trinidad plus the two clashes
between cricketing legends of England and the West
Indies in the 20/20 matches.
Charter a yacht to stay on during the cricket and
afterwards spend three or four days exploring the
Grenadines. Charter rates for seven nights start at
US$2,495 and go up to US$5,300, depending on the
size of the yacht. For a group of six, this could mean
as little as US$416 per person. Additional costs include
the Classic Cricket Supplement at US$200 per person,
which covers transfers to/from airport, return transfer
to stadium, stadium tickets, party night tickets and
food at two Classics parties. All-inclusive packages
can be arranged.
Skippers are available from US$150 per day for non-
sailors or for those who just like to have someone on
board to guide them through the islands.
For more information contact
horizonyachts@spiceise. com.

World Yacht Racing Forum
The launch in January this year of the World Yacht
Racing Forum has generated a positive reaction from
almost every sector of the yacht racing industry world-
wide, in a clear demonstration that yacht racing
deserves its own forum to debate the issues affecting
the business of the sport.
The inaugural international Yacht Racing Forum
event will be held in Monaco on December 10th and
11 h at the Grimaldi Centre. The Yacht Racing Forum
is modeled closely on the successful Motorsports
Business Forum and the two events will share the
Grimaldi facilities in Monaco in December.
As forum guest speaker and Chairman of ISAF
Olympic Class Sub-Committee Malay Shrof put it,
"Sailing is now the third biggest sport driven by spon-
sorship. We need a forum to discuss how we can
deliver more for our sponsors, for the media and for
the public at large. It's a great initiative for our sport,
and if we can learn a thing or two from Motorsports, I
think they can also learn something from us."
The objective of the Forum is to bring together in one
place the principal players in the industry: yacht racing
sponsors and organizers, venues that host sailing events,
marine suppliers, media, associations, sports marketing
companies, teams, boatowners and captains.
"It is so important to recognize and understand the
role of sponsorship in shaping the future of this sport,
and we are pleased that so many key sponsors will be
participating in the Forum to explain what they are
looking for from the sport in the future," said Will Morris,
CEO of organizers, the Informa Yacht Group.
The World Yacht Racing Awards will take place at
the gala evening and will incorporate a review of the
sailing year, at the same time celebrating some of the
finest moments in yacht racing history. Awards will be
presented to many of the unsung heroes of race man-
agement and event organization as well as recogniz-
ing the part played by host venues and race sponsors.
For more information, visit
www. worldyachtracingforum com.


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GUADELOUPE DRY DOCKS 150'Length 52'Beam 13'Draft
With over 30 years experience, customers are assured of a complete range of quality services CONSTRUCTION REPAIRS MAINTENANCE


4 Docks : 120 tons 200 tons 650 tons 1480 tons
All Types of mechanical and engineering work
Bow thrusters Stabilizers Shafts and props
Awl Grip boat spray and antifouling
Carpentry and fiberglass repairs to the highest standards I7



Seminole Marine, 97110 Pointe dt Pitre Guadeloupe, F.W.I.
Tel: + 590 590 911 011 Fax: + 590 590 919 652
E-Mail: y.kinmelu'ool.fr













Continued from previous page

Women's Escape Weeks in 2008 include several dif-
ferent on-water retreats three in sailing and one for
operating powerboats. Fast Track to Cruising is the
school's most popular program. These exclusive vaca-
tions start with a three- or four-day Learn to Sail course
aboard Colgate 26s, followed immediately by a
Bareboat Cruising Preparation or Live Aboard Cruising
course on 44- to 49-foot sailing yachts.
In 2008, the Fast Track to Cruising Women's Escapes
are based in the British Virgin Islands, June 18th to 29th
and October 15th to 26th. No more than four women
are taught on a boat at a time, each by an accom-
plished Offshore Sailing School woman instructor.
The ten-day all-inclusive BVI package includes two
comprehensive courses Learn to Sail and Live
Aboard Cruising -three certifications, five nights
ashore, six nights living aboard, parties, most meals
while aboard, gala graduation celebration, course
textbooks, sailing gloves, and a 24-hour mini-cruise


without the instructor aboard at the end
of the course.
Another option is for women who relish speed but
lack the skills to take command of a power yacht. A
Fast Track to Power Cruising getaway November 9th
to 15th allows women to learn aboard new Moorings
46 power cats while cruising the BVI.
For more information visit www offshoresailing.com.

St. Lucia Game Fishing at Marigot Bay
The Marina at Marigot Bay is once again a sponsor
and the host marina for the popular St. Lucia Billfish
Tournament, offering complimentary berthing to all com-
petitors. The 18th annual International Billfish Tournament
runs from September 11 h through 14th. Teams will
attempt to beat the record a 707-pound Blue Mariin.
Last year the competition saw 23 participating boats
and this year organizers expect that figure to double.
An all-party lay-day with a swimsuit fashion show and
entertainment is scheduled for anglers and spectators.
The St. Lucia Game Fishing Association is the major






























Can you beat
that? The Marina
at Marigot Bay
continues
to support
St. Lucia's
International
Billfish
Tournament
complimentary
berths here are
a perk for
competitors


event organizer. Prizes range from a Suzuki Jeep for
the angler that beats the current record, to cash priz-
es and trophies.
For berth bookings for the tournament contact
marina@marigotbay. com

Horizon Grenada 'Sail & Classic Cricket'
Horizon Yacht Charters of Grenada has launched a
seven-night "Sail & Classic Cricket Package" for
October 9th through 16th, aimed at sailors and cricket
fans seeking adventure, cricket, island-hopping, tours
and live music.
The Grenada Cricket Classics is an annual event
that has grown in popularity since it began in 2004.
The focus of the weekend is on the games between
Grenada, Barbados and Trinidad plus the two clashes
between cricketing legends of England and the West
Indies in the 20/20 matches.
Charter a yacht to stay on during the cricket and
afterwards spend three or four days exploring the
Grenadines. Charter rates for seven nights start at
US$2,495 and go up to US$5,300, depending on the
size of the yacht. For a group of six, this could mean
as little as US$416 per person. Additional costs include
the Classic Cricket Supplement at US$200 per person,
which covers transfers to/from airport, return transfer
to stadium, stadium tickets, party night tickets and
food at two Classics parties. All-inclusive packages
can be arranged.
Skippers are available from US$150 per day for non-
sailors or for those who just like to have someone on
board to guide them through the islands.
For more information contact
horizonyachts@spiceisle. com.

World Yacht Racing Forum
The launch in January this year of the World Yacht
Racing Forum has generated a positive reaction from
almost every sector of the yacht racing industry world-
wide, in a clear demonstration that yacht racing
deserves its own forum to debate the issues affecting
the business of the sport.
The inaugural international Yacht Racing Forum
event will be held in Monaco on December 10th and
11th at the Grimaldi Centre. The Yacht Racing Forum
is modeled closely on the successful Motorsports
Business Forum and the two events will share the
Grimaldi facilities in Monaco in December.
As forum guest speaker and Chairman of ISAF
Olympic Class Sub-Committee Malay Shrof put it,
"Sailing is now the third biggest sport driven by spon-
sorship. We need a forum to discuss how we can
deliver more for our sponsors, for the media and for
the public at large. It's a great initiative for our sport,
and if we can learn a thing or two from Motorsports, I
think they can also learn something from us.
The objective of the Forum is to bring together in one
place the principal players in the industry: yacht racing
sponsors and organizers, venues that host sailing events,
marine suppliers, media, associations, sports marketing
companies, teams, boatowners and captains.
"It is so important to recognize and understand the
role of sponsorship in shaping the future of this sport,
and we are pleased that so many key sponsors will be
participating in the Forum to explain what they are
looking for from the sport in the future," said Will Morris,
CEO of organizers, the Informa Yacht Group.
The World Yacht Racing Awards will take place at
the gala evening and will incorporate a review of the
sailing year, at the same time celebrating some of the
finest moments in yacht racing history. Awards will be
presented to many of the unsung heroes of race man-
agement and event organization as well as recogniz-
ing the part played by host venues and race sponsors.
For more information, visit
www worldyachtracingforum com.


GUADELOUPE DRY DOCKS Le
ah /,,I ; fil ~d 'l ,pIk, lh C. .t,,Ii 'l dC /t''\\u < '['1 1,,1'-pl i'tdl tC quallht %di C (')! NSTRI 'TI N REP IRS IL.NTENINI'E


A *4 Docks :120 tons 200 tons 650 tons 1480 tons 1
All Types of mechanical and engineering work
Bow thrusters Stabilizers Shafts and props

SAwl Grip boat spray and antifouling
Carpentry and fiberglass repairs to the highest standards



.eminiol marinee, 97110 Pointe a Pitre Gu(;adeloipe. F. I.I.
Tel: + 59/ 59/ 911 011 Fax: + 590 59/0 919 652
E-Mlail.: y.kimelh''ol.fr












-ontinuedfrom previous page
According to Environment News Service, plans were in the works to build 1,025
residential units, a 250-room resort/casino, a 175-unit hotel/casino, and two golf
courses. But there were lawsuits and widespread concern about the resort's pro
posed use of limited water resources, destruction of wetlands and possible harm to
e.l.- .- 1- i l.1 itats.
.... i i I -' efforts, the Commonwealth of Puerto Rico permanently
protected the wetland complex in 2007 by designating it as the San Miguel
Natural Reserve.
The new San Miguel Natural Reserve on the north coast of Puerto Rico, in the area
known as the North ,-I ,,, i i 1 ridor, includes 212 acres of inter-tidal and
emergent wetlands 11i, I .. 1.1 i i I .11 listed threatened and endangered species.
After years of controversy, The Trust for Public Land purchased the property from
Juaza, Inc. in ";;:--t "007 for US$12.5 million and conveyed the property to the
Commonwealth i i .. Rico for its permanent protection as a natural reserve.
The site, 25 miles east of the capital San Juan, is the ... ,, ,. i
for th- -n;;-n.'r- leatherback sea turtle in Puerto : I .i
and' .i 11. . ar' I i o I -.... 1. i i . other seaturtle species aswell.
It includes more than ...I I i i 1.. .. .. -1. re coral reefs, one of the region's
last unspoiled dune systems, and the remnants of a 19th century hacienda that was
used for sugar cane production.
Environmentalist Addresses Tourism Conference
At the 10th Annual Caribbean Conference on Sustainable Tourism, held from April
28th through May 1st in the Turks & Caicos Islands, Dr. David Suzuki opened the
event as its keynote speaker before a capacity crowd, which included heads of state
from various Caribbean Tourism Organization (CTO) member countries. Dr. Suzuki
1ii .11 I these leaders to not sacrifice the future for short-term economic gain.
i I crises of ecological degradation and falling oil supplies will have massive
repercussions for all countries, but none more so than those of the Caribbean and
especially the tourism industry," said Suzuki. He cited the challe'n:-= f.-i; thi
airline industry in the coming years. "Air travel leaves the heaviest i I ,,i,
among all modes of transportation and skyrocketing fuel prices are already having
explosive effects," he said.
Dr. Suzuki, in part, blamed unchecked i. I ... i .realistic economic expect
tions for the threat the Earth faces today. ,i .i..... 1 economists believe econo
mies ;--- f;-ever to meet this population's needs," he said. "They can't. With
that I. I I ... we must eventually ask ourselves, how much is enough? Are we
happier with more stuff?"
"Economists think tourism can continue to grow into infinity," he added. "But we
have to realize that nothing can grow forever. This unchecked growth only acceler
ates us on a suicidal path."
Bonaire Marine Park Honored
The Bonaire National Marine Park has received the Islands Magazine/ Caribbean
Tourism Organization (CTO) Sustainable Tourism Award for 2008. The Marine Park
received the award during a special presentation at the 10th Annual Caribbean
Conference on Sustainable Tourism, held in May.
The Bonaire National Marine Park is one of the few actively managed and self
funded marine protected areas in the world. It was cited for developing a sustainable
tourism model where conservation management, tourism needs and community
benefits are balanced.
Islands Magazine and the CTO recognized the Marine Park I .... i ... its main
S to maintain and restore the health and biological I .-.1 I Bonaire's
ii promoting non-destructive tourism activities. More than 38,000 visitors



lP^r^-inm


Bonaire's Marine Park covers more than reefs -critical mangrove ecosystems are
also protected
visit the park each year and it is routinely listed in the top five destinations for the
Caribbean. Admission fees, commercial and private moorings, donations and grants
account for the park's n d-li;;
The Marine Park inch. I- [- ..i extensive coral reefs, sea-grass and man
grove ecosystems, and excels in the protection of its natural wonders. In addition,
it has eliminated destructive practices such as .-h.-r:i; ;-1 -ir rfi-ing, and
Bonaire's healthy and diverse reefs now support a l .... I -.. I. tourism
activities whose impacts are carefully monitored by the park.
Climate Station for Caymans
A weather and ----.; i-h- i-it--i;-;: station being installed off the coast of
Little Cayman will I ' t in. I ,,,I ... ,, about how climate change is affecting
coral reefs, as well as better information about storm threats.
The station, a joint project between the US National Oceanic and Atmospheric
Administration and the Central Caribbean Marine Institute, is expected to be fully
functional by the end of the year.
NOAA chose Little Cayman as one of four international locations for such stations,
which will continually measure temperature, winds, barometric pressure and ultra
violet and photo-synthetically active radiation around Little Cayman's shallow reefs.
Reporter James Diamond notes that scientists hope the station will help them bet
ter understand the connection between changes in atmosphere, changes in the
ocean and changes in fish and coral populations across the region. They also want
to learn more about how longer-term climate variability will impact the structures of
coral reefs, ano i1. I. ... ....... carbon dioxide emissions in the atmosphere will
stunt skeletal I I i ... .. ... ..... organisms.


(. Ci .I i-n i -


Iore than a marina.
A[ Lagoon Marina. first-.citS berthing is ust part of the
story Naturally we provide lull marina services including
shore power. watri.luel.,hower and toiler facilities.garbage
removal ice. mech3nial repairs and advicee We also offer
a 19-room hotel with bar and resturant. two pools. a
superrnarke[ laundry currency eAchange. Internet and Fax
bureau plui Ioel rxcursiorns Add a proicssional.welcornng
leam and you ve j3 ine fachting haven in 3 heavenly sertirg

TO RESERVE YOUR BERTH FCMi arir'as
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OR VHF CH AINEA. 68 ','I


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Our facility located in the heart of beautiful Virgin Gorda comprises
a 111-slip marina and a boatyard with 12 acres of dry storage space
offering insurance approved hurricane pits to secure your vessel
during hurricane season.
Onsite amenities and services include a bank/ATM, a supermarket,
chandlery, restaurant, bakery, clothing store, dive shop, phone and
fax facilities, free wireless internet access, fuel, water and ice,
laundry facilities, and an office of the BVI Tourist Board all in
a pristine and relaxing environment BVI Customs and immigration
located within convenient walking distance.
Tel: 284 495-5500 Fax: 284 495-5706
284 495-5318 284 495-5685
Web: www.vgmarina.biz
VHF Ch: 16













Imm2


Fifteen boats gathered at Marina Bas-du-Fort in
Guadeloupe to participate in an exciting inter-island
adventure that takes place each spring. The ninth
annual Transcaraibes yacht rally, which ran from
March 29th through April 19th, took participants from
Guadeloupe to Saint Martin, the British Virgin Islands,
the Dominican Republic and Cuba. Discovering "off
the milk run" cruising destinations like the Dominican
Republic and Cuba is for many a dream come true.
This year, out of 15 boats ranging from 38 to 53 feet,
two-thirds were catamarans. Participants came from
Switzerland and France; in other years the rally has had
S -1 ..v- -f Pritish crews. Onda Blu, Peter Kilgus's
I, .i I, i '. .- Maramu 2000, joined for the third
time and he and his crew enjoyed it i .1 -.i
At Marina Bas-du-Fort in Guadek ". I II start,
the welcome was perfect as always. People started to
know each other over a few glasses of Madras rum at
the evening cocktail parties. A Radio-Controlled Lasers
Regatta was organized and so the rally's first prizegiv
ing took place the second day.
The first crossing was a 190 nautical-mile ....1
sail under deteriorating weather conditions. ...
in Saint Martin and enjoyed two nights' rest and relax
ation at Marina Fort Louis. The wine-tasting party on
the second evening made us forget the weather out
side. The -r'eni--r decided to postpone the departure
for the I i.. o1 35-knot winds gusting to 40 in
squalls. Marina Fort Louis understood the situation
and gave us an extra night free of charge.
We left for BVI with an improving sea state and cov
ered the 90 miles under rather comfortable conditions.
Our intended British Virgin Islands program was
affected because we could ol.1 ....1.i We
would like to thank the BVI T. ....... i .. II .11 their


Arrival at Santiago de Cuba's marina time for our
first mojitos!
help, hoping that next year we will be able to enjoy a
full three days in the justly famous sailing waters of
this beautiful r-hir- 1.
Between the i i .,, i 11, Dominican Republic, the
weather .~n--1 radically. Now, ideal conditions
allowed ,. i i.-,,,, and aboard Frederic Martin's
Haliotis 38, a two-metre (six-and-a-half-foot) sailfish
was ....1.i The 300 nautical miles were covered in
less I1. ... I- hours. Many arrived early on the DR's
southeast coast and anchored at Las Palmillas before
entering the fantastic marina of Casa de Campo.
Three intense days to explore the DR started with a
visit to Casa de Campo's luxury resort and its 30-year
old reconstructed Italian medieval village of Altos de
Chavon, which contains a replica Roman amphithe
ater for musical performances. The historical quarter
of the nation's capital, Santo Domingo, was next,
-n-li;;n --iTit to the first Spanish cathedral built in
h 1I I and Christopher Columbus's son's pal
ace. A stroll through the old city culminated in a stop
at a large supermarket for provisioning before we
headed back to the boats. Everyone was then ready for
the second part of the rally -the adventure was
really starting now.
A short stop at Isla Catalina for swimming and we
were off to Las Salinas, 110 miles away and a good
potential stop for those making the return trip to the
Lesser Antilles. Hotel Las Salinas' dock provides water,
fuel and even free mooring if room is available.
The following morning we left for the 70 nautical
mile journey to Isla Beata. This is an extraordinary
place, inhabited by 200 fishermen, where we found


cheap lobster. We even had a party with the sailors
based at the Dominican Navy post there. To celebrate
our coming, they offered what they had available and
we shared delicacies which crew on each boat had
prepared -wonderful!
Twenty-five nautical miles farther along the coast,
Playa Las Aguilas, the last beach before the Haitian
border, offered its spectacular ten miles of unspoiled
white sandy beach. And for the first time in the rally,
we were alone!
The last leg to Santiago de Cuba now awaited us.
Everyone was keen to discover this ultimate goal. A
good, fast, windy passage and we entered Santiago de
Cuba's beautiful bay.
What Santiago de Cuba marina offered us was aston
ih;in;: Clearance was, as usual, a bit heavy but so
! .... 11' We arrived on a Saturday and by the time
every boat had entered the bay it was dark. Time for
our first mojitos, a local rum drink made famous by the
writer Ernest Hemingway at la Bodegita del Medio bar
in Havana. A group of Cuban musicians, joined by the
rally's musical participants, Fred and Jean Alexis, put
us all in the mood to learn more about this country.
The next day, Sunday, featured a city tour of
Santiago de Cuba and a beautiful show at the French
Alliance Association was put on just for us. The close
ing event of the rally took place on El Cayo, an island
opposite the marina in the bay, that evening.
Well, that should have been the conclusion, but we
were all having such a marvelous time together that
we decided we would go the next day to the Casa de
las Tradiciones, a special place where one can listen to
typical Santiago music. There were no tourists there
apart from us, just another wonderful experience.
Many thanks to the Marina Santiago team and a spe
cial thanks to Reyna, who took care of us beyond the
call of duty.
At this writing, I'm back in Guadeloupe, but ten or
more of the rally boats are cruising the Jardines de la
Reina on Cuba's south coast, enjoying lobsters and
unspoiled anchorages....
For those who are not familiar with this unique
C ,'' I I ..-... event, here are a few details.
I' i '.- i a group of yachts to sail in company
for three weeks, discovering unusual places safely.
The entry fee includes dockage at marinas (14 days
this year) in ports where the boats do not anchor.
The organizer sails all the way with the group. He
helps with clearances when needed, and assists with
any language issues -French, English, and Spanish
are spoken at the various stops.
Each evening there's a happy hour or cocktail party,
even in the most remote places such as Isla Beata or
Bahia Las Aguilas.
Optional shoreside excursions are available in the
Dominican Republic and Cuba. Information about
these options is given by the organizer, who is very
familiar with the area.
Cuba can be a jumping-off point for the Western
Caribbean or Panama. The Transcaraibes itinerary is
also convenient for those boaters who plan to return to
the Lesser Antilles. Most of the possible stops on the
return journey have been explored during the rally,
and advice with accurate waypoints is given for others
-for example, Ile-a-Vache in Haiti and Errol Flynn
Marina in Jamaica. The distance between eastbound
stops is never more than 120 nautical miles and can
be accomplished in one overnight sail. Also note that
in May and early June the tradewinds are normally
lighter than in the winter and passagemaking against
them is smoother.
For more information visit www.transcaraibes.com.


FOR YOUR MARINE HARD WARE, AND MORE


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I ANTiIGUA CLAS IC Y T R A 28 iii


RECORD FLEET A


FEAST FOR THE EYES



by Frank Pearce


As the 2007/2008 sailing season draws to a close, the most wonderful collection
of classic yac 11. i .... .. ... ... f the finest classics to be found any
where in the I I1 1 ... I. I I I -I I schooner Adela to the 24-foot locally
restored sloop Springtide. Here, nineteenth-century beauties such as Thalia (1889)
and Galatea (1899) spread their sails alongside classically styled new builds.
This year there were a record 71 entries, including the nine-strong fleet of new
Dragons from Antigua's Harmony Hall Yacht Club, and seven Carriacou Sloops,
some which are based locally in Antigua and others that sailed up from the
Grenadines. Other entries came from Europe and the UK, South Africa, the USA,
Canada, and Caribbean islands including Grand Cayman, St. Kitts, St. Barthelemy,
St. Thomas and, of course, '.
The weather for the even I. I I i. ... April 17th through 22nd was :. ..... ..I
except on Day Four when racing was cancelled due to a total lack of wine ,,I I ...
After somewhat strenuous sailing during the first three days' racing, this was per
haps not totally unwelcome.
The philosophy of this event has always beer. 11. I ..1 ... ... gatta.
Aggressive racing is discouraged and protests are: .11 I "i I" .11 each
and every yacht, no matter how large or small, is the "apple of the owner's eye" and
while everyone wishes his or her vessel to do as well as possible, it is not at the risk
of damage.
Any doubts about the comp-titi--- n- -f th- i -in: h-------- r were dispelled by the
sight of the J Class boats Ve I ... I ., .... .,. . .....", along with the likes


of the gaff schooners Altair (108 feet) and Eleonora (120 feet) and the staysail school
ners Aschanti (105 feet) and Adela being sailed to their optimum. But even so,
plenty of room has to be allowed at the marks, not just for larger yachts but also for
the smaller ones.
Race Three, known as the Cannon, is a beam reach seaward for six miles and a
reach back in, twice over. Smaller yachts start first, to be overtaken later by the
thundering J's and others. What a spectacle this is, what a rare opportunity to see
such yacht 1t-- i sailed to the ultimate! Upon ... i i.... 11. course yachts then
join the :.. i i Classics to slowly pass the .I.... -I. balcony where Jol
Byerley announces each yacht and gives a very erudite commentary. Crews line the
rails, often in uniform or wonderfully eccentric but beautiful outfits, as crowds of
spectators cheer and sip champagne at Catherine's Cafe.
i... i I. i, .i the Caribbean
I 1 Race is held

six miles. As in the past, owner John
Spenlinhauer made availa i 11 ... .I.
expedition yacht Tivoli as I .. I
this race as well as for the entire regatta; the
Committee was in luxury! There were 28 sin
gle handed race entries: tl 1 .-. t --ichtwas
the 114 foot Aschanti IV I .. II I. normal
perception of an i1. 1 ...1 1.... 1 1 and the
smallest being th i- I I ... I lerreshoff
Jade. Each yacht in the singlehanded race
must carry an observer, who may assist in
setting sails, but may do nothing further after
this, unless there is an smor nan-
The day was roundecl I ., gig rowing
and sailing dinghy racing in English Harbour
against the backdrop i i o a.d I...... i
Inn where Edwardia
served with cucumber sandwiches. Edwardian
dress was de rigueur even when rowing; the
vision of ladies in wide brimmed hats rowing
gorgeous varnished tenders being a sight to
wet the eye. The enthusiastic and lively
youngsters had enormous fun rowing in sin
... 1 doubles.
i i sailing and racing was enthusiastic
and energetic, so was the social side of things.
There were events every night with choices of
venues, mostly offering something special, for
example the Welcome Party with the band
Itchy Feet, and the Sail Maine party serving
complimentary delicacies such as Maine
Lobster Chowder and copious refreshments.
The Live Music Night at the Yacht Club
enticed many musicians from different yachts
to give excellent renderings. Singers from
Canada, Northern Ireland, South Africa and the United States all contributed their
own brand of music what a jump up
that :.. 1.-
Anm- I... .11 to the prizegiving in
S,. .. I, 1 ..i 1, 7. ... the evening, held on the lawn by the
I ...'''' I,. i .. Copper & Lumber Store, an original
S I Nelson's Dockyard building, with king
palms swaying in the breeze by the
stage, a large screen showing a selec
tion of the wonderful shots taken by
the many photographers present at the event, and myriad prizes.
S.. 1 ....I I I ....... ... i- I planning, numerous sponsors and an army
of h....I I I I. ....... I 1I I, Classics Committee and the Classics Race
Committee, some 60 or more volunteers were involved. With so many helpers, so
r- 1t making this event happen, I have avoided making specific personal
SI, would just not be space. But I have to make an exception in the
case of Kenny Coombs, as none of this could have taken place without his amazing
vision and energy. As Regatta Founder and Chairman, Kenny has been running the
Antigua Classic Yacht Regatta since 1988, and we are all greatly indebted to him.
To all owners and crews, a big thank you for being with us.
Continued on next page


BAREBOAT CHARTERS FULLY CREWED CHARTERS ASA SAILING SCHOOL

Doyle Sail Loft & Canvas Shop Raymarine Electronics Refrigeration Work
Mechanical & Electrical Repairs Fibreglass Repairs Laundry
Vehicle Rentals Showers Air Travel
Ice & Water Diesel & Propane Moorings
Island Tours Surftech Surf Shop Hotel Reservations
Quiksilver Surf wear Restaurant & Bar Boutique
On-site Accommodation Wi-Fi / Internet Cafe Book Exchange

PO Box 39, Blue Lagoon, St Vincent, West Indies
Tel. 1-784-456-9526 / 9334 / 9144 Fax. 1-784-456-9238

Sbarebum @caribsurf.com www.barefootyachts.com











Continuedfrom previous page
Full results and more details on this
year's regatta (and those of past years) are
available on the website www.antiguaclas-
sics.com. A visit is 1 11 ........ 1 1
Frank Pearce is i
Antigua Yacht Club.






ANTIGUA


CLASSIC ,


YACHT :


REGATTA "


2008


WINNERS



Classic Class A (CSA -3 Boats)
1) Eleonora, 2000 Herreshoff gaff schooner 120', Peras Ltd, Douglas, Isle of Man 1, 1, 1; 3
2) Aschanti V, 1954 Henry Gruber staysail schooner 105', Aschanti Ltd, Vaduz, Lichtenstein -2, 2, 2; 6
3) Whitehawk, 1978 Bruce King ketch 103', Peter DeSavary, England -3, 3, 3/RDG; 9
Classic Class B (CSA -9 Boats)
1) Juno, 2003 Nat .. i schooner 65', Scott Dibiaso, West Tisbury, Massachusetts, USA 1, 1, 1; 3
2) Kate, 2006 Myln .11 ,, .. Phillip Walwyn, St. Kitts -5, 2, 3; 10
3) Heron, 2003 John Alden gaff schooner 52', Nigel & Bonnie Bower, Camden, Maine, USA 3, 3, 5; 11
Classic Class C (CSA -6 Boats)
1) Lone Fox, 1957 Robert Clark yawl 62', Ira Epstein, Gustavia, St Barthelemy -2, 1, 1; 4
2) Radha, 1964 yawl 64.4', Julien Dobson, Great Britain -1, 2, 2; 5
3) Isis ofBosham, 1969 Nicholson cutter 45 ft, James Child, Godshill, Isle of Wight, England -5, 3, 3; 11
Classic Class D (CSA -6 Boats)
1) Alice ofPenrhyn, 1991 Lyle Hess sloop 32', Andrew Hazell, Wrekin, Telford, UK 1, 1, 1 3
2) Meggie, 1964 Bermuda 30 ketch 30', Michael Shaw, Thornbury, Ontario, Canada -3, 2/RDG, 3; 8
3) Rainbow, 1979 Cornish crabber 30', Peter Hutchinson, UK -2, 3, 4; 9
Classic Class GRP A (CSA 5 Boats)
1) Calypso, 1976 John Alden cutter 30', Reg Murphy, Falmouth, Antigua 1, 1, 1 3
2) Springtide, 1968 David Boyd Sloop 24', Jol Byerley, English Harbour, Antigua -2, 3, 2; 7
3) Iris J, 1961 Bruce .... 5.5m sloop 32', Daniel Thomas, English Harbour, Antigua -4, 2, 3; 9
Classic Class GRP B 7 Boats)
1) Sunshine, 1958 Philip Rhodes sloop 41', Hans Lammers, St Johns, Antigua -1, 1, 2; 4
2) Winsome, 1990 Cherubini Ketch 44', Don Ward -3, 3, 1; 7
3) Moonshadow, 1966 Bill Trip yawl 41', Edward Baretto, Hodges Bay, Antigua -2, 2, 3; 7
Spirit of Tradition Class A (CSA -5 Boats)
1) Velsheda, 1934 C Nicholson J-Class sloop 130', Tarbat Investments Ltd. 1, 1, 1 3
2) Ranger, 2003 Stevens/Burgess J-Class sloop 136', Alister Lait -2, 2, 2; 6
3) Gaia, 2007 Sean McMillian Spirit sloop 100', Simon Fry, Lichtenstein -5/DSQ, 3, 3; 11
Spirit of Tradition Class B (CSA -3 Boats)
1) Wild Horses, 1998 W76 Class sloop 76.3', Donald Tofias, Newport, RI, USA 1, 1, 1; 3
2) Patriot, 2002 Bruce King sloop 70', Ira Conn, Falmouth Harbour, Antigua -2, 3, 2; 7
3) Pasha, 1998 David Frank cutter 55', Laurance Pringle, Chester, Nova Scotia, Canada -4/DNF, 2, 3; 9
Traditional Class (CSA -8 Boats)
1) Genesis, 2005 Alwyn Enoe Carriacou gaff sloop 40', Alexis Andrews, St. Pauls, Antigua -1, 1, 2; 4
2) Ocean Nomad, 2008 Alwyn Enoe Carriacou sloop 40', Todd Orrell/Eli Fuller -2, 2, 3; 7
3) Jambalaya, 2002 Carriacou schooner 65', Jeffrey Stevens, The Grenadines, St Vincent -3, 5, 1; 9
Vintage Class A (CSA -5 Boats)
1) Ticonderoga, 1936 LF Herreshoff ketch 72', Scott Frans, Riverside, Connecticut, USA -1, 2, 1; 4
2) Galatea 1890 "n--r-n yawl 67, Judd Tinius, i ,.i,.i, I I ..I ... ..la- 6/DNS, 1, 2; 9
3) Havsornen, :' i Holm cutter 52 1/2', i i .. .- ..... Netherlands 2, 4, 3; 9
Vintage Class B (CSA -4 Boats)
1) Altair, 1931 W Fife gaff schooner 108', Joe Pytka, English Harbour, Antigua 1, 1, 1 3
2) Thala, 1889 Wanhill gaff cutter 45', Ivan Jeffries, Chichester, Suffolk, UK -2, 2, 2; 6
3) Mistress, 1930 Sherman Hoyt gaff schooner 60', Glen McCormick, Stock Island, Florida, USA -3, 3, 3; 9
Dragons (One Design -9 Boats)
1) Compass Point, Poul Hoj Jensen, Denmark 1, 1, 1, 1, 1 5
2) Jolly, Thomas Muller, Germany -2, 2, 2, 2, 4; 12
3) Halinoon, Michael Cotter, Ireland 4, 4, 3, 3, 5; 19

SINGLE-HANDED RACE
Small Classics (CSA 17 Boats) i ,, i i ,i
1) Sunshine, sloop 41', Kathy Lammers
2) TigerMaru, sloop 37', Julien Davies, I ...
3) Springtide, sloop 24', Peter Lucas I i ..
Big Classics (CSA -8 Boats) i, i .,
1) Galatea, yawl 72', Judd Tinius ..
2) Maggie B, schooner 63', Frank Blair
3) Aschanti V, schooner 114', Karl Peter Ebner















JLegend

Some of the best racing at this year's Antigua Classic
Yacht Regatta was seen during the battles between the J
Class sloops Velsheda and Ranger. The two J boats com-
peted with the staysail schooner Adela and the sloop Gaia
in Spirit of Tradition Class A.
During the 1930s, ten J Class yachts were built to race
in the America's Cup.
Although Ranger -a 2004 replica of the 1937 original
-beat Velsheda across the finish line in -....... three
times, on corrected time Velsheda, built ... I and
rebuilt in 1997, won all three races, with Ranger taking
three second places.
Yachting World magazine's David Glenn wrote: "After
extensive mods to lighten and re-distribute weight in
Ranger, [the owner] has a yacht that over a windward/
leeward course is now faster than Velsheda At Antigua,
where the courses comprise predominantly reaching legs,
Velsheda hung on well and if she hadn't made an odd tac
tical error on the final beat of the second race she could
have beaten Ranger on elapsed as well as corrected time.
For reasons known only to themselves, Velsheda's after
1- f.il t---- P -. tl- fii-.1 1- : -1- he had
,h , ,, I ,, I h I ,. ... h "' d held
from the start."
Karl James is among the most famous of Antiguan sail
ors. The multi-time Caribbean Laser champion has repre
sented Antigua & Barbuda once at the Pan Am games and
twice in Olympic sailing events. He'd signed on as tacti
cian aboard Ranger and it was his formidable knowledge
of local wind conditions that gave his boat the chance to
beat Velsheda by six seconds across one race's finish line,
having begun the final attack from far behind. Karl teach
es groups of very lucky youngsters how to sail at the
Antigua Yacht Club. Nobody is turned away -kids who
can't afford the training can apply to get it free.
There has been an explosion of interest in J Class
yachts, and the J Class Association i ..-,t
com) has issued a definitive list of J ... .
that can be built as replica new builds under their rules.
,, - to see more of these magnificent vessels at
Thanks to Bob Williamson in Antiguafor information used
in this report.


Lives at _Anttigua
(U


The two Js stayed within afew boat lengths of each other during all three races.
After some two hours of racing, Ranger crossed Race Two's finish line just six seconds ahead















REGATTA


NEWS

Pizza Pursuit in the BVI
The BVI s annual Pizza Pursuit Race was held this
year on April 26th, sponsored by the Virgin Queen Bar
& Restaurant and organized by the Royal BVI Yacht
Club. It saw a resurgence of interest as racers recently
recovered from the stormy BVI Spring Regatta were
joined by cruisers to more than double the number of
entries over last year. New courses starting and finish-
ing at Nanny Cay proved popular.


Paradise). On the long run downwind under spinna-
ker to Little Thatch, a squall came through with gusts
in excess of 20 knots, causing more than one vessel to
round up with sails flapping.
Jeff Williams' J/40 Gryphon and Guy Eldridge's
Beneteau First 1 OR Luxury Girlfollowed close on their
heels in the difficult current and shifty winds between
Little Thatch and Tortola, only to see the smaller boats
pull away again as the breeze dropped to almost
nothing. Dave West's Melges 32 Jurakan, starting 36
minutes after the first boats, survived a dramatic
knockdown off Sea Cows Bay. She handily picked her
way through the dying wind and kept moving as her
lighter opponents wallowed, passing the rest and fin-
ishing comfortably ahead.
In the IC24s, Conchquerer gave bMobile a run for its
money until running onto an uncharted shallow spot
now christened "Wriggles Reef". Luxury Girl and Intac
enjoyed the closest finish, as the crew of Luxury Girl took
extreme measures to successfully distract young aspiring


They earned their mozzarella! The KATSjunior sailors on the IC24 Racing in Paradise
showed true grit in the Pizza Pursuit Race


The Spinnaker Division had eight boats starting in a
timed order with the lowest handicap boats first. So
first off was a gaggle of IC24s, with experienced rac-
ers Andrew Waters (Conchquerer) and Colin Rathbun
(bMobile) leading over junior sailors from the RBVIYC
and KATS Sail, helmed by Alec Anderson (Intac), Chris
Watters (Black Pearl) and Phil Prevost (Racing in


Olympian Anderson moments before crossing the line.
The young KATS sailors on Racing in Paradise gamely
carried on to the end despite being offered a tow in.
The Non-Spinnaker Division took a more scenic
course around Dead Chest, Peter Island and the
Indians, however the drop in wind had a severe effect
on the heavier yachts. One by one they realized they


would not finish within the allotted time, and switched
on their engines, leaving Andrew Thompson to steer
his Hobie 16 to a victorious finish.
At the prizegiving held at Nanny Cay, a large stack
of pizza donated by the sponsor disappeared within
moments. The Yacht Club's Captain of Sailing, Guy
Eldridge, said, "I am especially grateful to Virgin
Queen, who have generously donated sufficient prizes
to ensure that each competitor received something,
as well as to the Race Committee of Diane Lewis and
Sue-Ellyn Eldridge who gave up their day so we could
all get out on the water."
ASW2008: And the Winners Are...
The winner of the Lord Nelson Trophy representing
overall victory at Stanford Antigua Sailing Week 2008,
held April 27th to May 3rd, is a newcomer: Benny
Kelly's TP52, Panthera. She also took home the Curtain
Bluff Trophy presented to the winner of the big-boat
Racing I class. Racing I was also the domain of two of
the more impressive yachts to compete in Antigua:
George David's 90-foot Rambler and Mike Slade's
100-foot ICAP Leopard. A third Racing I yacht, Sam
Fleet's Swan 601, Aquarius, received the Quin Farara
Cup for third overall.
David Cullen's J/109 Pocket Rocketalso received
two prestigious awards, the Chippy Fine Yacht
Woodwork Cup for top boat in the Performance
Cruiser III and IV ranks, and the British Airways Trophy
for supremacy in the Performance Cruiser III class. The
Performance Cruiser IV champion, Gianfranco Fini's
Comet 51, Bellissima, was presented with the Temo
Sports Trophy for first-in-class, and the Helical Moorings
Cup as runner-up to Pocket Rocket in the overall
standings in those combined classes.
A host of other Division A boats in the all-out spinna-
ker racing classes received awards for winning in their
respective fleets. They included Stuart Robinson's
Swan 70, Stay Calm, which won Racing II and the
Price Waterhouse Coopers Cup; Robert Swann's
Marten 49, Yani, which won Racing III and the San Hall
Trademarks Trophy; and the S&S 57, Charisma, which
won Performance Cruiser I and the Big Banana
Trophy. In the Racing IV, V and VI fleets, the overall
winner in the combined rankings, for which they
received the Global Bank of Commerce Cup, was
James Dobb's J/122, Lost Horizon. The J/122 was also
presented with the Air Canada Cup for winning
Racing V; the Beefeater Trophy as Best Caribbean
Yacht in Division A; and the Hightide Trophy as the
Best Antigua Yacht in Division A wow!
First overall in Racing IV was the Anteros 36, Easy,
winner of the Henley Trophy. Winner of the Antigua &
Barbuda Investment Bank Trophy, for besting the
Racing VI fleet, was Philippe Champion's J/120,
Paulista. A pair of multihulls earned prestigious awards:
Calle Hennix's SeaCart 30 trimaran, True Look, which
received the La Perla Cup for winning Multihull
Racing, and John Kwitek's Gunboat 62, Lickity Split 2,
which earned the American Airlines Cup for winning
the Gunboat cat class. Altogether, nearly 100 individ-
ual prizes were awarded in 38 separate categories.
Clay Deutsch's Swan 68, Chippewa, was given the
Budget Marine Trophy as the Overall Winner in the
Racing Class of the Caribbean Big Boat Series.
Continued on next page


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Sr age
Stay i: :, : :ii :i 1.-+ -,-.,i,..:1 Breweries Cup for Best
Swan in Division A, while its counterpart, Julian
Sincock's Swan 51, Northern Child, snared the
American Express Cup for Best Swan in Division B. In
the Cruising Classes, Kent Mitchell's Cape Fear 60,
Blue Whale, was the recipient of the Peter Deeth Cup
as top boat among the Cruising I competitors, and
Michel Teerlinck's Crowther 40 cat, We Two Are One,
earned the Admirals' Inn Trophy as the leader of the
Multihull Cruising fleet. Carsten Jacob's Sun Odyssey
49, Beluga V, won the Gold Fleet prize for the
Bareboat Charter classes, and was presented with The
Governor General's Cup as the best of the best
charter boats.
Finally, longtime judge Arthur Wullschleger, who this
year served as the jury arbitrator, was given the Jan
Santos Trophy, named for Sailing Week's vice-
chairman, for his long-time distinguished service to the
regatta. Race organizers are already turning their


attention to the event's 42nd regatta, which is sched-
uled for April 26th to May 2nd, 2009.
For complete results visit www.sailingweek com.
Virgin Islands' 13th Dolphin Derby
Carol Bareuther reports: The third time was a charm
as on April 27th three schools of fish provided Carl
Holley and Triple Secret with the Top Angler and Top
Boat prizes respectively at the 13th Annual Offshore
Marine Dolphin Derby, hosted by the US Virgin Islands
Game Fishing Club.
Thirty-four boats and 143 anglers fished the one-day
tournament out of St. Thomas. Holley, a St. Croix-based
sportfishing charter captain, won Top Angler and pock-
eted US$1000 with the catch of a 38-pound dolphin.
"We left Frederiksted at 7:30AM, headed north, work-
ing our way towards St. Thomas," says Holley. "Along
the way, we saw birds and then we'd see the schools
of fish. We caught five in the first school, three in the
second and six in the third." It was the third and final


D Dolphin De
.ay. April 27th. 2
4tfci' ^^*^_*^.



^-^B
Bk \ W


Heavies. These anglers caught the ten heaviest
dolphin at the USVI's 13th Annual Offshore
Dolphin Derby


school that yielded the biggest dolphin of the tourna-
ment. "I saw him come up behind the boat and threw
him a sprat. He went for it." Tournament rules allowed
for live baiting.


Triple Secret also landed the Top Boat prize of
US$1000, based on total number of fish caught, with
14 dolphin. The $25,000 grand prize for dolphin over 55
pounds went unclaimed. "We caught a 66-pounder
and 78-pounder on charter last week," says Holley, "so
I know the big ones are out there." In total, the tour-
nament fleet caught 54 dolphin for a total weight of
1,197 pounds. Anglers and guests at the Awards
Ceremony enjoyed a portion of the catch.
Tournament sponsors were Offshore Marine,
Yamaha and Yanmar distributors, and Premier Wines
and Spirits. This Dolphin Derby is the second of the
Budget Rent-A-Car Small Boat Tournament series. The
next event hosted by the VIGFC will be the 45th
Annual July Open Billfish Tournament, July 15th to 17th.
For more information visit www vigfc.com
Guadeloupe's First 'Poker Run'
Stgphane Legendre reports: For its first edition, the
Guadeloupe Poker Run was a royal flush! On May 3rd,
19 offshore motorboats gathered at Marina Bas-du-
Fort in Pointe-d-Pitre to race. They came from
Martinique, St. Lucia, St. Martin and, of course,
Guadeloupe. Weather conditions were ideal: flat seas
and sunshine.
"Poker run" competitions are based on the card
game. Each participating boat navigates a carefully
charted course, stopping at five checkpoints along
the route to pick up a sealed envelope containing a
single playing card. The itinerary was the following:
Marina Bas-du-Fort, Sainte Anne (Club Med resort), Les
Saintes, Anse Colas, Marina Bas-du-Fort. At the final
checkpoint, the cards are checked in. During the gala
banquet the envelopes are opened and the crew
holding the best poker hand is declared the winner!
POKER RUN RULES
Absolutely no alcoholic beverages consumed until
the Poker Run is over.
All participants must wear personal flotation devices.
Drivers must wear kill-switch lanyards while boat
is underway.
No sitting on top of the seats or sun pads while boat
is on the plane.
Starts are by groups, based on speed.
Medical/rescue personnel onboard at least one
boat in every group.
No passing the pace boat before the start flag
is dropped.
Minimum separation of 100 feet fore and aft and 50
feet side by side between boats on plane.
Continued on next page


Heineken Regatta


\ 1 rQ n n ^oaib


Real different! NO


,,iTHeinekej(













i- '-, h.: : : i- :r, :i. I,. :1, :1 out by organizers
with appropriate speed and safety notations.
Strict speed limits in congested areas.
No boats under 28 feet.
The winner of this first edition was Golden Boy, a
Fountain 38 manufactured in the US and owned by


540-horsepower Mercruisers exclusively on biodiesel,
and has a net zero carbon footprint, making it one of
the world's most environmentally friendly powerboats.
Having set out from Sagunto, Spain, on April 27th,
and stopping in the Azores, she arrived at San Juan,
Puerto Rico on May 4th, two days ahead of the exist-
ing record of 74 days, 23 hours and 53 minutes set in


2008 Scotiabank International Optimist Regatta
Carol Bareuther reports: The Scotiabank International
Optimist Regatta, celebrating its 16th year, is hailed as
the regatta that launched the current wave of interest
in Optimist sailing in the Caribbean.
This year's St. Thomas Yacht Club and Virgin Island
Sailing Association-hosted regatta is set to sail June


Left: Show those hands! Playing cards, not speed, determine the winners of this fun event
Right: Earthrace... can she run on coconut oil?

Ludovic Claret, who now qualifies for the Miami run. 1998 by the British Cable & Wireless team. Her next
Second was In God We Trust, a locally based X'treme stop was Shelter Bay, Colon, Panama.
36, owned by Arnaud Audebert. Third was Red Neck, The Panama Canal Authority ensured a swift journey
also an X'tr6me 36, owned by Xavier Remonnecq. through the canal for Earthrace, which completed its
Organizers are hoping that Guadeloupe will be host- 12-hour transit on May 10th. "We're all really grateful to
ing the Poker Run World Tour next year. Boats from all the Panama Canal Authority for speeding up our route
the Caribbean are most welcome! through the canal," says skipper Pete Bethune. "This is
For more information, contact high season in the canal and demand to get through
barbara@atmosphere-antilles.com. can often result in a backlog of a number of weeks, so
to only lose a day is a massive boost for our world
Earthrace Zooms Through record attempt. We wouldn't have been able to do it
A powerboat running on bio-fuel made two without the amazing local support we have received."
Caribbean pit stops last month during its attempt to You can find out where Earthrace is now by going
break the round-the-world speed record while pro- to www earthrace.net and clicking on the 'Where is
moving the use of sustainable fuels. Earthrace is a Earthrace' globe.
78-foot wave-piercing trimaran that runs two


19th to 22nd. "We are hoping to break the 100-boat
participation mark this year," says regatta director
Cindy Hackstaff. "Our regatta is a great way to prac-
tice for the Optimist North American Championships,
which start June 28 in Curacao." Sailors from eight to
15 years of age are expected from all three US Virgin
Islands, the BVI, Puerto Rico, Venezuela, Anguilla,
Argentina, Canada, Germany and the US mainland.
The pre-regatta activities begin June 16th and run
through June 18th, when top international coaches will
teach a three-day instructional clinic. "The idea of the
clinic is to offer high level coaching to a wide range of
skill levels, from medium to high level sailors," says
Agustin "Argy" Resano, who is heading up the clinic
with Optisailor coaches Gonzalo "Bocha" Pollitzer and
Manuel "Manny" Resano, as well as Leandro Spina
from the No Excuses Sailing Team in Florida.
Continued on next page


FORWARD THINKING

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... ... ge
:i:l-, ,iii i : :, :i I :i : the top five in each fleet
and top three overall. Additional trophies include the
Peter Ives' Perpetual Trophy, the Chuck Fuller
Sportsmanship Award and the Top Female Sailor. The
Sea Star Perpetual Trophy will be
inscribed with the names of the sailors
on the winning team.
For more information contact Cindy
Hackstaff at cindystyc. net or Bill
Canfield at wkcanfield@gmail.com.
For the Notice of Regatta and .
Registration Forms visit www.styc.net .

Caribbean One-Design
Championship
The Caribbean's most competitive ""
sailors will meet in St. Maarten at the
7th annual Caribbean Keelboat
Championships on June 21st and
22nd. Thirteen teams are already
signed up, including competitors
from St. Lucia (Mike Green), the USVI, .
the BVI (Emma Paul), Grenada
(Robbie Yearwood and Mark
Solomon), St. Maarten (Bernard Sillem
and Robbie Ferron), Puerto Rico and :
Trinidad (Paul Amon and
Donald Stollmeyer).
Chris Rosenberg of the US Virgin
Islands has won this event for the last
two years. Another sailor to watch
out for will be Efrain "Fraito" Lugo of Puerto Rico, who
has won more Rolexes than he has crew! St. Maarten
sailor Frits Bus, who placed second last year, may
change history as no St. Maartener has yet won that
island's most competitive sailing event.
For the official Notice of Race visit
www tropicalsailloft com or contact Cary Byerley
at directordbigboatseries. com.
Young Antiguans Go Sailing
Sailing is fun, as demonstrated recently in Antigua
by the Jolly Harbour Yacht Club Youth Development
team. Eleven youths from the Junior Achievers after-
school programme run by Neikeisha George, as well
as several younger children, took part. This brings the
total who have had free sailing experiences to well
over 40. Schools represented include Antigua Girls,
Antigua Grammar, Antigua & Barbuda Institute of
Continuing Education, Clare Hall, Christ the King,


Princess Margaret and Pares Secondary. Many have
come back to repeat their learning experiences and
several are already keen racers, which is encouraging
for the future of Antiguan crews. Thanks to some of
the Junior Achievers on board Rick Gormley's First 38




\'*,., A


Jolly Harbour Yacht Club members give Antigua's
Young Achievers some hands-on sailing experience

Elethea, she sailed into fourth place at one of the reg-
ular JHYC races.
While the schools are on summer vacation, local
young people will be learning to sail their own boats
at Jolly Harbour under the watchful eye of Jolly
Harbour Yacht Club, who will provide free learning
opportunities and safety boats on the water. Several
sailing dinghies are now available for the project, and
more are on the way. Local sailors and JHYC members
were particularly happy to take delivery of a Sport 16
dinghy donated by Sunsail at Hodges Bay. This ensures
that the JHYC Youth Programme will go from strength
to strength this summer. JHYC is grateful for any sup-
port by way of dinghy parts, professional training for
local instructors, storage and catering. JHYC would
also be very pleased to meet more young people


who would like to sail through the summer.
For more information visit www.jhycaniigua. com.
20th Bastille Day Kingfish Tourney
The 20th Anniversary Bastille Day Kingfish
Tournament the one-day inshore
fishing tournament that offers the
best prizes and attracts more partic-
ipants that any other of its kind in
the Virgin Islands will take place
at Hull Bay Hideaway, St. Thomas,
on July 13th. Fishing starts at 5:30AM
and ends at noon, when the
beachside party begins.
First organized by the Northside
Sportfishing Club in 1987, the tourna-
ment last year attracted 243 anglers
(including 34 junior anglers) aboard
63 boats. In one of many prize cate-
gories, Nikolas Murdjeff, aboard a
Waters Edge Sports boat, reeled in
the Largest Kingfish, a 32.54-pound-
er and took home prizes that includ-
ed US$2,000 in cash.
The Annual Bastille Day Kingfish
Tournament is one of many activi-
ties that celebrate French Heritage
Week. Besides being a fun-packed
day for the whole family, the
Tournament benefits the Joseph
Sibilly School, St. Thomas Rescue,
The American Red Cross and The
Family Resource Center, as well as providing college
scholarships for students of French descent.
For more information phone Monica Lester
at (340) 774-5206.
It's CuraQao's Turn!
Heineken-sponsored regattas are famous through-
out the Caribbean. Now Heineken Curacao and
Curacao Sailing Festival announce the first Heineken
Regatta Curacao, which will be held November 7th
through 9th. Curacao, situated nicely below the hurri-
cane belt, is the perfect spot to kick off the season.
This regatta will be surprisingly different, therefore the
slogan: "Real different!"
All events and races will be in and around the har-
bor and bay of the historical city of Willemstad. All
boats will be racing in the center of Willemstad and in
the open sea in front of the city what a spectacle!
For more information see ad on page 17


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Haiti: A Step Back in Time


by Phil Chapman
Our plan was to leave Venezuela and cross the
Caribbean to the Dominican Republic, there to meet
our friends Chris and Tony aboard Waylander before
sailing west to Haiti, Jamaica and Cuba.
Having left Puerto La Cruz on the Venezuelan main
land, we made our way to Porlamar on Isla Margarita,
- ; .t i1 .e for shopping, provisioning and meeting
i i.- This stop also allowed us to catch up with
e-mails and other cursed internet needs (the modem
sailor's vice), courtesy of Robert the "WiFi Guy".
We spent longer in Porlamar than planned, meeting
up with old acquaintances as well as new, but the day
came for us to move round to the north of the island
into the harbor of Juangriego. From there we would
sail to Isla Blanquilla to wait for a weather window. As
we left Porlamar we said our good-byes to Carl, who
regularly gives cruisers weather information in and
around the Caribbean, Robert the WiFi Guy, and
Laurie on Minshara who, as we left, was offering
English-style steak pies for sale via a local baker. I
believe Laurie's call sign is now "Buy Pie Guy"!
We spent the night in Juangriego before sailing to
Blanquilla the :ii ... i The sail to Blanquilla was
good, if a little i', I ad winds of 20 to 25 knots
on the beam and eight-foot seas on the beam, but the
passage is only 60 miles and we managed it in just less
1.... .1 1, .. didn't want three more days and
S". i ii i .... to the DR, so we decided to wait
Blanquilla is a beautiful small island, with clear
waters, good snorkeling and white sandy beaches. We
hoped w ,,i i I hi i -., I .li er window to the
DRina .I i i .. .1 .- nottobe; acold
front moving across North America stalled and didn't
give us the seas and wind we wanted for two weeks.
Blanquilla's not a bad place to be stranded, but we did
want to meet our friends.
Finally the window we hoped for arrived, according
to the forecasts and GRIB files: 15 to 20 knots, seas


'We made our way through shallow waters into THE most beautiful anchorage...'


six to eight feet decreasing. Well, that we had for the
first 12 hours, but then 1. .11. 1. I orse.
On the second day out 1. I I- I I and
the ten-foot seas were gradually building. We had the
third reef in the mainsail and no headsail, and were
doing eight knots.
Nevertheless, after three days we finished the
470-mile trip to Casa de Campo Marina in the
Dominican Republic, where we were welcomed by our
friends aboard Waylander.
What a marina this is -outstanding in quality of
facilities and the staff that run it. Frank Castillo, the


man in charge of the marina, welcomed us in, showed
us around, and treated us as if we were old friends.
Casa de Campo covers thousands of acres; you can
SI I I ..... to get around it. They have the usual
: I .1.1 I hi, I laundry and supermarket, plus many
other shops, bars and restaurants, a swimming pool,
and even a cinema with English films. La Romana, the
charming local town, is only a short cab ride away. The
marina doesn't appear on many charts but it is a place
not to be missed.
Continued on next page


CLEAR SKIES FORECASTED FOR THIS SAFE HARBOR
aousiM orM nJ.MidldMIL 1 an.~


Sen Boca Marina, Cuniqra's fines private harbor, hi, ipe-ning
rir dia.agLLk I.JtI a'd iuiide the hurricn belt in 'h pn.rCL'rd
a.lcm1 Sp.niUh .Haler 1.i; 'cru Boca Marina is canitdcrcd
Sine .I1 iher in~il .i11nd It 't ylAhl irn h.r.ihr' in IhL Caribbean.

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-ontinued from previous page

After a few days Chaser and Waylander moved on to
another marina, one not on our charts, at Boca Chica,
another beautiful location protected behind a reef.
They, too, have many facilities, some not yet fully up
and running, .ii ... nothing compared to Casa de
Campo. Still, :I .. 1.1 marinas, this is another one
not to be missed.
We stayed in Boca Chica for a couple of nights before
moving west to an anchorage at Las Salinas, to be our


last stop in the Dominican Republic. Waylander need
ed a part for their depth sounder which was to be
available in Santa Domingo within a couple of days, so
waiting in this lovely, well-protected anchorage with its
charming, unspoiled village along the shoreline was
not a problem. After four or five days we pulled the
anchor and moved west. Next stop, Haiti, the land of
poverty, violence, political unrest and voodoo.
We left Las Salinas at sunrise for our 200-mile sail.


Our destination in Haiti was a small island a couple of
miles offshore called Ile-a-Vache. This we understood
to be a calm and safe *--' -r.-- "T. arrived the fol
lowing day (Friday) abo' i I ** i. ... making our way
through shallow waters into THE most beautiful
anchorage. (Stay on the port side of center while enter
ing the bay on a north-to-south heading.) We were
immediately surrounded by young lads in dugout
canoes made many years ago from mango trees. Our
experiences in the more touristy islands put us on our
guard because boat boys there often just want to sell


Ile-a-Vache
(Cow Island), at lower
left on the map, is
about eight miles
(13 km) long
and two miles
(three kin) wide

Right: Ile- Vache
contains many small
villages, some of which
have a schoolhouse


over-ripe bananas or stale bread. ..
to welcome us and even bring us ,'1 1 I
nut. They said that if we needed anything, to give them
a call (by name) and they would try and help.
Our first question was regarding checking in to
Haiti, and William, one of the boat boys, told us it
wasn't necessary if we -1r- et "in l nn'i a few days.
However, come Sunday 1. I i ...- departure),
William brought the Customs man to us, for which we


had to pay overtime. We were not happy about this
scam, and we told them so in no uncertain terms.
French and Creole are the languages commonly used
here, but we were surprised by the number of lads that
l,1 1 ...1.-1. r Spanish. Samuel, Jon Jon, Carmar
.. i 1i... .11,,, -: mi;; - ; were ready to help and
fetch for -'.... -1 I rse, but nothing outra
-- Ti,- li.'t even ask for money; anything was

Ile-a-Vache is absolutely beautiful. "A step back in
time" is a cliche, but I'm sure that, apart from the
population, little has changed in the last 200 years.
This island is home to approximately 20,000 people.
There is no electricity, pipe-borne water or sewage sys
tem, there are no shops, cars or roads, although there
are two motorbikes. Everyone walks everywhere to
fetch everything. The people are the most friendly we've
come across. They loved to see us and we couldn't walk
anywhere without someone tagging along explaining
what we were seeing and where to go.

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The anchorage is idyllic, calm and protected with
lovely views. Unfortunately, we arrived shortly after a
local woman had died. The coffin was being paraded
around the n-i-rt. in a motorboat from the main
land full ol ... ..... all wailing and screaming,
throwing dust to the waters and, we later learned,
some of them working themselves into a trance-like
state, to such an extent that it took three people to
hold them down. Spooky! We were glad it wasn't hap
opening at night.
Continued on next page














-Continued from previous page
Port Morgan is the name given to the anchorage.
Ashore is a hotel also called Port Morgan; the hotel
and surrounding gardens are owned by a Frenchman
i. i i i .. .. this project 20 years ago. He also
i yachts and he can be called on
111 i...... i i entry instructions and check-in
without overtime fees, we later found out.
Our first duty after dinghying ashore was to take
some refreshment at the hotel: beers all round. We
had a chat with the owner, who explained how he
started the hotel and what facilities were available.
The hotel has a large generator, for which fuel has to
bebroughtfrom th ....... .1 i I- ..... else,
apart from som e :...i ... .1 ... i I.-I. II. I. el
with electricity, air-conditioned rooms, en suite facili
ties, a small swimming pool, even a mobile telephone
and internet via satellite -was the only semblance of
modern civilization we found, apart from an orphanage
farther round the coast.
The next day we took a walk to Madame Bernard, the
main town. It was a two-hour walk each way, so we
put on our hiking flip-flops and marched onward.
Directions weren't a problem. Although there were
many tracks, every hundred yards or so a child tagged
along with us, telling which path to take. We passed
i.... ... ... ii .. of one-room houses with straw
: i ... i .. I ...... I, to speak of. Some of these vil
lages have a schoolhouse. The people were all working
i .... -.... or mending fishing nets. All came to
sa3 I ,,i ,,, I never spoken so much French in my
i ,i1. .. .1 i ..*... .s about all I know. The .ii .
S I .. i ... wells. That's women's i
course: even girls as -'--n as ten years old carry
water on their heads ir i. gallon jugs up and down
the hills for a mile or more.
With tired legs and feet we arrived at Madame
Bernard. Wow! There aren't many towns like this in
the Caribbean. There were many houses, maybe 12
feet square, where families lived. There were no shops
to speak of. Some people had beans or rice for sale on
a chair or stool outside, and apparently they have a
market each week selling fruit, meat and fish. The
more .11. i i ... buildings were the few church
es, a .. i i i, i- and, alongside one of them, a
cockfighting arena. It really was a step back in time, as
though we had jumped out of a Tardis from the science
fiction television programme, Doctor Who.
We walked on through the town to the St. Francis
orphanage. We don't have many photos of the town or
the orphanage; we felt a little uncomfortable flashing


expensive cameras around. In the orphanage they do
an amazing job looking after handicapped children
and orphans. The few volunteers work tirelessly
through the year, educating and teaching skills such
as sewing, metalwork and carpentry. The orphanage
has its own workshops where they make furniture to
sell on the mainland to raise a little extra cash to fund


the school. In the kitchen, all meals were cooked over
log fires using supplies donated by the United States
and France. The classrooms for all grades were very
well laid out. Teachers are hard to find, but somehow
they manage. The staff here does an amazing job,
- .. .. I personally couldn't do.
i our good-byes and wished good luck to the
staff, Chris and Tony gave a few little toys and play
things such as marbles and jigsaw puzzles, and we left
some pencils and balls for the kids. Seeing children's
faces light up with the gift of just a marble each was a
humbling experience.
Our walk back took us along the same route, still
with "our" various village kids attached. By this time
our feet and legs were really beginning to ache. How


these kids make it I don't know, especially with ten
pounds of water on their heads. Our usual walking
exercise, of course, amounts to 40 feet forward and 40
feet aft along the deck of our boat on a good day, so we
were beginning to tire.
Arriving back at civilization (the hotel) our steps
gained a little speed with the wafting scent of food and

a....


'We walked hand in hand with the acquired children...'


the prospect of some coldies. Hand in hand with the
acquired children, we all went in for a welcome drink.
We then said au revoir to the kids -several times, for
they were a little reluctant to leave us. I think one or
two really thought they might have the opportunity to
come away with us back to England. They did ask.
Ile-a-Vache, Haiti. It really is a must-see place. We'd
love to return.
Back on board we 1. 1 .....1 ... 1. i caring the
boats for an early i I '. I I ...... another
"dangerous" place, so we're told. But more on that
next time.


Conlail lohin Loui. 876-713"l-644 871.87 1-4412
e-maiil: iniilo errolill nniiarina.omi \ HF Channel Il
% n n\.erroll iiiln illa .a t (i Il
















Dajab6n,




Haitian




Market


Above: People simple walked across the river
to the market
Below: I am the egg man


by i.,.. iu


Wt ile awaiting the end of hurricane season in
Sthe secure harbor of Luper6n in the Dominican
Republic, my husband, Chris, and I had the opportu
nity to visit a Haitian market. Up early to be at the
marina at 6:OOAM, we joined our friends Dave and Eve
Lander for a trip to the town of Dajab6n. (I'm not usu
ally up that early, and the sunrise was magnificent.)
Dajab6n is one of three points on the border with
Haiti where, twice a week, on Mondays and Fridays,
there is an open-border market.
On the way there, in a tunnel through a small
mountain, there was a smell -stagnant water?
Sewage? No, pigs! As we exited, we could see that the
truck in front of us was filled with fat, pink and
brown-spotted pigs.
S.. .... i .... .. rritory for us, we saw rice fields,
o... ..... i .., I i I I- and lots of goat ranches. Julio,
our driver, says where the land is not good for crops,
they raise goats. Also, once the rice is harvested, the
goats are turned loose to clean those fields.
The Haitian market was awesome. I have never seen
such a melee of people, pushing, shoving, shouting,
moving in every direction, hawking their wares and
looking for the best bargain. Men pulled or pushed
wheelbarrows and carts loaded to the sky with
50-pound bags of rice, pasta, styrofoam plates and
1 crates of chickens. Women carried sky
S I eggs, clothes, boxes, crates and bags on
their heads. There were boxes of chicks, live hens,
bagged chickens (all parts included), sausages, hats,
shoes, underwear, etcetera. It was a wondrous, fren
zied madhouse of activity.
At the border is the Massacre River, which separates
the two countries that share the big island of
Hispaniola: Haiti and the Dominican Republic. There
is a bridge spanning the water, but the riverbed is
mostly empty or very shallow and, like the Mexicans
at the Rio Grande, people simply walked across the
riverinste I1 i 1 .... 1. i ,, i. here is a huge arch
on the Do ........ -. i i l and a gigantic gate
that is normally padlocked, but stood wide open
today. There was a constant stream of people going in
both directions.
The market works by bartering as well as selling
items for cash. The Dominican Republic is an agricul
tural --inti- ipplF-in, -fgs, chickens, rice, fruits,
and ,' .. i I. i . I ... I The Haitians bring man
ufactured goods, mainly clothing and shoes, but also
small appliances such as radios and televisions, pots
and pans, etcetera.
There are moneychangers to be found throughout
the market, who exchange Dominican pesos for
Haitian gourdes or vice versa. ;. .- from the Bible
of moneychangers being cast o.. 'I I temple flick
ered in my head.
The Dominican officials allowed us to walk out onto
the bridge to look and take some photos. On the bridge
were Haitian officials. Using English, Spanish and
French, we managed to communicate with them a lit
tle and they allowed us to walk all the way across to
say we had really been in Haiti.
We walked up and down the crowded aisles for sev


A constant stream of people going in both directions
at the border


eral blocks, taking in the colorful scene. Then we found
a bench by the town square and sat to rest a bit, and
eat an orange purchased from a street vendor to refresh
ourselves. Julio, our driver, was going to go to get his
taxi driver's license renewed and said he'd meet us at
1'. I 1..1i . ... from the fire station) in an hour.
Si I thing the stream of people pass
ing. Obviously foreigners, w. i, -i I I.. of
vendors trying to sell us an *.- .... ne
woman had baby shoes and Dave just shook his head
as he held up his big foot alongside the tiny shoes. The
woman smiled slyly and pulled out men's tennis shoes
from behind her back!
The market is confined to a certain area, but many
Haitians wandered beyond the boundaries and police
would push them back if they didn't go with just a
word. We saw one policeman hitting a woman with a
strap because she refu=--i1 --;;;- man was walked
away in handcuffs. By i. .. i i 1 morning, though,
the authorities often just ignored the transgressors,
tired of trying to keep them within the market borders.
I would imagine that a certain number manage to slip
through and remain in the Dominican Republic. On
the highway back to Luper6n, there were several
checkpoints. They just waved us through, but Julio
says if there are any black people in the car, they will
stop you and make everyone get out, and search you
and the vehicle.
Energy restored, we walked around some more. We
stopped at a couple of auto parts stores and found the
fuel pump Chris needed, so we bought that our only
purchase, other than fruit and drink.
Julio returned, having been unsuccessful in getting
his license renewed -computers were down, there
was a LONG line, so he didn't wait. We had seen as
much as we wished, so we headed back, stopping in
Monte Cristo for lunch at the Coco Mar Restaurant.
Right on the water, we sat outside where it was cool in
the breeze. This area is a primary goat-raising area, so
Chris and I both ordered .t With it came salad,
avocado, beans, rice and i.. I plantains. We were
stuffed by the time we finished.
After lunch, we stopped for a photo op at El Morro, a
scenic rock in the ocean, part of a national park. Then
we retraced our path back to Luper6n.


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D 7 AT' Abaco is the hub of the Abacos
GJL l island i 1 -- .t-d in the
extreme northeastern part ol '1. I .... This is an
"off the beaten path" stop for yachts heading from
Florida to the Caribbean, and charter yachts are avail
able here, too.
Marsh Harbour is the main settlement on Great
Abaco and the largest in the Bahamas except for
Nassau. There are several stores and shops, two fairly
1 ;- :tores, hardware and marine stores, lots
i, ., . hotels, an airport, and even a traffic
light! Located in a container is Buck-A-Book, where
my husband Chris and I traded books and videos for
our onboard entertainment. On a little road leading
away from the waterfront is Darville's Straw Industries,
where well-crafted woven items are available for pur
chase. Like many island ventures, it is in a little
house. The Jib Room, the restaurant at Marsh
Harbour Marina, hosts a weekly barbecue night,
which readily became one of our favorites.
At the dinghy dock we met a colorful character
named Sampson, a Haitian who is always there, bare
foot, under the shade of a tree, carving. He did a great
song-and-dance number for us about how he carves,
hasn't bothered us before but now it's time, talk to me,
no not later, right now, leave me ten dollars deposit for
n in~--? rpy the rest when we pick it up, a lovely
1 i lovely lady. He was hilarious and really
working for a sale. He helped us load our groceries and
told us, "I'm not looking for a tip." Chris asked how
much more for the carving. Forty dollars. Chris looked
at me and I shook my head no -that's too much!
Sampson brought the price down to $40 altogether,
but indicated that the parrot would be smaller. He
continued his nonstop banter as he saw Chris's
resolve weakening. Finally Chris caved in and gave
him the $10. Sampson began dancing, short dread
locks bouncing.
The following day as we neared the dinghy dock,
Sampson pulled up alongside us on a bicycle and
asked me, "Did you know he (Chris) got me drunk?" He
had blown the $10 we gave him on a bottle of rum,
which was jutting out of his back pocket. He was high
and happy.
A few days later, when we arrived at the boat dock to
dispose of some old cushions, Sampson was under his
tree. He asked if I i.... Lose pillows away.
"Yes, do you want i .... i .-i i He did, as I had
figured he would. If he hadn't been there, I'd intended
to leave them for him. He said he couldn't carve our
parrot right now because his foot hurt. He showed us
where he had a boil. A doctor needs to lance it, he told
us, but he doesn't have any money. He could do it
himself, he mused aloud, but needs pain-killer first
and has no money. He asked us to bring him a pint of
Bacardi when we came back. When we were out of
earshot, I laughed and told Chris, "This is going to be
an expensive parrot."
A couple of days later, Chris came back from a trip
to town with the carved parrot. I was pleasantly sur
prised -it was quite good. Sampson even carved his
name on the bottom, so it's a "signed" piece.
Parrot in hand, we moved on. A short distance north


The Bahamas:


GREAT


ABACO


tent there for a while. It is only a short walk to the
beach and there is an old lighthouse on the hilltop to
which you can climb. There is also a museum and the
studio of an American sculptor, Randolph Johnston.
We anchored there while watching for a weather win
dow to make the trip to the Exumas.
There were ducks paddling near a boat moored just
behind us, but the people aboard were ignoring them.
I got some bread and lobbed one piece long. One of the
ducks saw it and made a beeline, the others quickly
following. The next morning, three of them came to our
boat, checking things out, so I got some more bread
and fed them.
Pete's Pub is a well-known boaters' beach hangout



I


Sunset at Marsh Harbour. As well as a cruising destination, this is the one of the finish lines in July's
annual Regatta Time in Abaco


of Marsh Harbour is Treasure Cay. In October, 2005,
we rode out Hurricane Wilma here. There are a couple
of small strip malls and a beautiful beach where we
found Coco Beach Bar and stopped for refreshment.
Curly-tailed lizards abound in the Bahamas and
Treasure Cay was no exception.
We rented a car one sunny day and toured the
southern part of the island, going to Cherokee, Little
Harbour, and Sandy Point. The landscape is pretty
boring flat, with pine trees and nothing else.
Little Harbour is neat, though. It has a snug little
anchorage with a white sand beach; we could be con


and there was to be a jam session there one afternoon.
Two of the ducks came begging just as we were ready
to leave, so we delayed until I could give them some
bread. When we arrived at Pete's, a couple from anoth
er boat was playing guitar and keyboard while others
joined in singing. It was a fun evening -another good
experience in Great Abaco.
For more information on the Abacos visit www.go
abacos.com/cmiseguide or get a copy of C'r.-
Guide to Abaco, Bahamas by Steve Dodg r
9780932265869.


^,dui H Lnfls M Ras~ka LLWww-


~-1


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Tales of Cap'n Dicko:




ARUBA TO




CARTAGE

by Richard Blamey


My first and only wife, Jennifer, and I sailed away from the
South of France seven years ago and are now in Cartagena,
Colombia. Our boat, Sanjola, is a 2001 Bavaria 42 Ocean.
Well, according to the pilot books, the passage from Aruba over
the Guajira Peninsula on the Venezuelan/Colombian border is the
fifth worst passage in the world. So we checked all the pansy
internet weather sites for what the Americans call a "weather win
dow". We found one and set off on January 28th, at the height of
the tradewind season. We had not sailed for over a year. People
cried from the dock, "The pointy end goes in front." Very funny.
It is a 450-mile journey to C .t -.. f ;.;. '1 .. I1 we decid
ed to do it in one hop. Three : ... I I i travelers,


' .ir
""""'
"""'
c--
L-
--I


_T


Above: Sanjola at Renaissance Marina with Jennifer on the stern, preparing the
boat to leave Aruba

Below: Me and the 'Colombian pirate' crew at Club Nautico, Cartagena


X


.- -




Wind, sea and current join forces to make the trip from Arba to
Cartagena a challenge -especially when the tradewinds are up


blah, blah, blah. The first two :.. .1. fine, and then the wind
sprang up, 30 to 40 knots up I. I .I II was well until the auto
pilot went tits up. Suddenly, I was driving the boat by hand all by
myself. Jennifer was wonderful; she found what the Royal Navy
pilot book called a "banana boat port", Santa Marta, on the
Colombian coast. We changed course and anchored in the bay.
We imagined that the port would be full of Harry Belafonte look
alikes carrying bananas on their backs and singing calypso
music: "Day-o, day-o, daylight come an' me wanna go home." A
banana boat was actually the. 11 1 ;.. .i .... ship I have
ever seen in my life, painted ...1.1 II .I I I Bananas"
written on the side.
Having no autopilot, plus a very stiff rudder, made it too difficult
for Jennifer and me to sail onward alone. Two "Colombian pirates"
off the beach took a liking to us. The two men, aged 27 and 31, ran
a workboat in the Santa Marta harbour. They acted as ferrymen to
take us ashore. We asked one to help us sail to Cartagena. The
other pirate said, "I want to come, too." Jennifer said, "Okay, then."
Then he brought his wife on board to visit; she was 25 and spoke
I ,.i.i. Jennifer said, "Why don't you ... .i ... ii
1 I 11 I them and felt that they were i 1, I ,
sailed, but the guys were experienced boatmen so I felt that they


FULL SERVICE BOATYARD




UP 11r2Lr WON*& F dl~nbaln
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could helm the boat okay. They proved to be excel
lent crew and are still good friends.
At Santa Marta, the only weather forecast we
had was from NOAA, which is very global. The
local guys and Guarda Costas thought that it
would be okay, so the five of us set off for
Cartagena. If the forecast had been bad, the
weather was even worse. The first day the wind
blew 30 to 35 knots with eight to ten-foot seas.
Interestingly, the second d. _- 1- i ;-fect sail
ing weather, although the * i -1 for each
of the days had been identical.
We crossed the mouth of Rio Magdalena, navi
gable for 800 miles. If it was the Thames, you
could sail up it across Wales and right past
Ireland!
Eventually we gct t- r.rt1. -; i; one piece. Lots
of parties. Said ii I i i "pirates", who
caught a bus home. (Can you imagine Cap'n Jack
Sparrow catching a bus home?)
The fin-type rudder fitted to the Bavaria has a
lower bearing at water level. It had seized. We
dropped the rudder in a boatyard here in
Cartagena and the local craftsmen sanded the
stainless steel rudder shaft and the plastic bear
ing until it was a smooth fit. Excellent now.
The autopilot is still under investigation.
Now back to sipping local rum!













A Little Off the Rhumb Line:






Colm
by Chuck Cherry
T-rr T'T T is a TV show called "Fear Factor". I
T HI imagine you have heard of it. It seems
S E 11 V a little overdone to me, but I guess
there are enough people in the world who are afraid of heights, snakes
and bugs, and eating the entrails of various animals, to make it go. I
personally am a proponent of rational fear, especially when sailing
around on the deep blue sea. But I think sometimes it's true that we
have nothing to fear but fear itself
Traveling in Colombia is a little like being a contestant on that show.
They always use safety lines on the high-altitude stunts, the snakes and / r L
bugs are the kinds that don't bite, and this is not the only country
where tripe is a staple. With a few minor precautions and acceptance of
a certain amount of inconvenience, you will find Colombia to be a great
place for adventure. ,'
First, let's look at a couple of the negatives. Then I'll give you the top
ten reasons you should go to Colombia.
Colombia is roughly divided into four parts. One part is controlled by
the government, police, military, etcetera. This is the part we visit: the
big cities, the resorts, and the high mountain areas around Bogota. The
other three quarters are controlled by guerilla factions. These are the
parts we don't visit. But why would we? These parts are the jungle where
mosquitoes and cocaine grow. The only possible temptation to venture
out of the safe zone would be to travel by bus to another safe zone. The
safe zones are very safe, with lots of visible police and military all
around, starting with the .2-- 1, 't-.r- -. If you think about it, even
well-paid guerillas need .... ,' i i vacation once in a while. F j
A real hazard is driving. In general, you want to forget about it. J
Crossing the street is exciting enough. Taxis are cheap and, for thrill- t d
seekers, motorcycle taxis are even cheaper. Colombians have a unique
style of driving that takes years to perfect. So leave the motor-scooters
on the boat and only rent a car to drive in the mountain safe zones.
For better or worse, the price of everything is negotiable. Or you I
could say flexible. Or you could say there is a gringo price, a middle
flex zone and a bottom price. This can be a real annoyance or an inter
I ... .am- -- -.12n mn your attitude. You have to negotiate real
Si i you buy.
Speaking of money, there are some restrictions on Visa here and
many businesses prefer MasterCard. - '
And, as always when traveling, the usual "don't be stupid" rules apply.
The top ten reasons to go to Colombia, from ten to one, are as follows.
Ten: Fishing
The Number Ten reason is the -1..... I i )ve to fish, I love to catch
fish, cook fish and eat fish. I've -I i-1. I all my life. So now if the
boat is m-ir- I'm fishing. Those fishing lines just didn't sing well for
me afte: I I i. Greater Antilles, until I got close to Colombia. I still
don't understand all about the migratory habits of Caribbean fish, but
I do know that I catch more near Colombia.
Nine: Nautical Stuff
Number Nine could be called nautical stuff, starting with the fact that
Colombia is below the hurricane zone making it a year-round fun spot.
Give or take February, the winds are favorable and almost predictable.
The bay at Cartagena is easy to enter or exit, and well-marked. The fuel
dock is easy and takes credit cards. The marinas are friendly, safe, con
venient to town, and priced right. The more upscale Club Pesca has
cement docks and fine dining, and caters to wealthy locals as well as
transients. It tends to have more organized social events and acts like a
gated community: you have to be invited to get in. My personal favorite is
Club Nautico. The docks are wooden and the Med-style mooring "cre -- -. _
ative". It is more laid back and less organized. But it has the hang-out bar
where everybody meets for happy hour, plus good food.
Eight: Repairs
Number Eight could be part of number nine, but it's so
good it gets its own number. You can get hauled out here
in your choice of three or four yards. But the really big
deal is that these guys can fix anything. And I mean any
thing. All those things that you would replace anywhere
else can be repaired in Cartagena at a fraction of the
replacement cost. A few examples: My little over-and
under Sears washer/dryer came with the boat (i.e. it's 15
years old). It finally died and Sears told me they don't
make or keep parts that old. The starter-timer, a big and
complicated-looking gadget with about 20 different col-
ored wires, was completely worn out. The repairman came
and ripped out the whole thing, with all 20 wires -basi
cally the entire electrical insides of the machine -and
replaced it with a used GE one he had in his shop. Now
the washer/dryer works fine, for a total cost of US$35.
My "entertainment center" finally gave way to salt-air TWFmaI T lrem TlTral
corrosion. I was expecting to replace all the parts, but the BABAMD GREf AtDA t VInCI
repairman came and repaired five speakers, one CD SAkOAPOS GRFNA0A M.T INIC
player, one television, one VCR and one DVD player. Now HIIUA Fl Il IA MI OS Qt
they all say Sony on the outside but on the inside they are CANOUAk.N COLA A A CANOL A
all different and none are Sony. And I got change back
from my hundred-dollar bill. The list goes on, including (*CAKRHIAC INION u INION
the main circuit board for my Heart 200 inverter. *. 1, 111) I CARRIACOUL
Anywhere else, that little thousand-dollar board would be
replaced. Here they cleaned it, put it under a big micro
scope and re-wired the fried part for US$25.
Continued on page 31


n Ten


In Cartagena you'll see lots of uniforms


:NT T PRI\ \TI .IF r HANDLING SERVICES
E Prsrate Jet ( liart'er at niahbl
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to imndfron all painh wihn t he
C mIUllR n %%A OttIIl .AllICi ,

























The renowned hurricane forecasters, Philip J. Klotzbach
and William M. Gray of Colorado State University, warn
that 2008 is likely to be an above average year for hur-
ricane activity. Perhaps you have already given thought
to plans for weathering the hurricane season safely;
if not, now is the time.












Atlantic Tropical Weather Discussion
www.nhc.noaa.gov/text/MIATWDAT.shtml
Atlantic Tropical Weather Outlook
www.nhc.noaa.gov/text/refresh/MIATWOAT+shtml/010919.shtml
Caribbean Weather Information
http://caribwx.mwxc.com/marine.html
Jeff Masters/Weather Underground
www.wunderground.com/blog/JeffMasters
Local Forecasts
www.wunderground.com/cgi-bin/findweather/getForecast?query=piarco
www.weather.com/outlook/travel/businesstraveler/tenday/
TDXX0002?from=36hrfcstl0DayLinkbusiness
These examples are for Trinidad, the former is for Piarco and the latter for Port
of SI .... i .ii. .... .. .i. ..- ;ood for cruisers in Chaguaramas). It's easy to
get .1 1 .-- i 'l .,, i- onthesewebsites.
Offshore Waters Forecast for the Caribbean Sea
www.nhc.noaa.gov/text/MIAOFFNT3.shtml?
Offshore Waters Forecast for the Tropical North Atlantic
www.nhc.noaa.gov/text/MIAOFFNT3.shtml?


Comparison of Forecast and Average Parameters
PARAMETER FORECAST AVERAGE
Named Storms 15 9.6
Named Storm Days 80 49.1
Hurricanes 8 5.9
Hurricane Days 40 24.5
Intense Hurricanes 4 2.3
Intense H'cane Days 9 5
Accumulated Cyclone Energy 150 96.1
Net Tropical Cyclone Activity 160 100
The above table compares selected parameters forecasted on April 9, 2008 to the
observed parameters averaged from 1950 through 2000.
Both the warmer-than-normal water temperatures in the Atlantic and the La Nina
weather pattern during the 2007-2008 winter are similar to prior years (1951, 1989,
1999 and 2000) when above-average hurricane activity occurred. Klotzbach and
Gray use these observations and other factors such as the weaker-than-normal
Azores High and the reduce I .I I ..l. i ..- spring, to generate their fore
casts. The CSU professors iI I I 1 ,. I have not been as accurate as
they would like, but with hundreds of variables and interactive relationships in
global oceanic and atmospheric conditions, forecasting is a huge challenge.
An early warning of the potential severity of the hurricane season is valuable to all
who are living on, or leaving their boat, in the Atlantic Basin.
If you wish to read more about Klotzbach and Gray's forecasting techniques visit
http://hurricane.atmos.colostate.edu/Forecasts.


Virtual Buoy from Buoyweather
http://Buoyweather.com enter a virtual buoy location anywhere you want.
Buoyweather uses the GFS model; it simply reports what GFS is predicting for
your chosen location.
For a small fee you can have daily e-mails (either text or graphic format,
your choice).
WindGURU
http://windguru.cz/int/index.php?sc=59 (has some pre-set virtual buoys
faster than Buoyweather, also GFS, but you can't set your own buoy)
Other weather tidbits:
www.srh.noaa.gov/srh/jetstream/
www. nhc. noaa. gov/marinersguide. pdf
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Weatherforecasts
www.grib.us
Clayton's (see footnote) favorite weather book (so far) is: Mariner's Weather by
William P. Crawford, Norton Nautical Books.
Thanks to Clauton and Fiona Lewis of the uacht Argo for this information.


Hurricanes Jeanne and Karl, September 21st, 2004


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na lpper, Cartagena





















BBC CHANGES


MODES IN THE


CARIBBEAN



I !. .

W .... I ..... ,, .. , 11 I
OC( . II ,l .... I I,, Ih ii I I ii
wol I l, I ,. ii Ill I II I ,.
ing. i i
F o I i ..... I I I ,1 I ,, I I.
C all ....... I . ,. ,,, I ,,

brc .I hI ,,I I

POLICE STTTIOI.N N.1ME FM FRE( ,MF FRE9


Angudia i
AntLgua i



Aruba II.' 'i
Bahamas- i

Barbad .

Barbuda .....
Belize I I I
Bermuda I I, -1
BVI 1 I I1

Caymans I 1, i

Curaca :, I
Dominica i


Grenada
Guyana

HaiL ......
Jamaica I I
B nI a I. ,



Moniserrai 11 1 ,

St Maarten -

Ne\is I

St KI LL I i
GuIana


St Lucia I i

St Th..mas
SVG I

Suriname i .
Trinidad 1 1


Turk_ & Cailc-' 1
US I I



Sec . .. . .' 1.I
Cie ..... ,, ,


SELECTED CARIBBEAN SHORTWAVE


WEATHER REPORTS


UTC AST
0600 0200
0930 0530
1030 0630
1030 0630
1100 0700
1100 0700
1110 0710
1200 0800
1230 0830
I-.. 1300 0900
1330 0930
1530 1130
1800 1400
1800 1400
2000 1600
2030 1630
2130 1730
2235 1835
0000 2000
0000 2000
0330 2330


STATION & REPORT DESCRIPTION
NMG Broadcast
Offshore Forecast
Trinidad Emergency Net 9Z4CP
Carib. Emergency & Weather Net
Caribbean Weather (Chris)
Caribbean Maritime Mobile Net
KP2G Caribbean Weather Net (George)
NMG Broadcast
Caribbean Weather (Chris)
Caribbean Sea (WLO)
Caribbean Weather (Chris)
Offshore Forecast
Caribbean Sea (WLO)
NMG Broadcast
Southbound II (Herb)
Carib. Cocktail & Weather Net
Offshore Forecast
Caribbean Emergency & Weather Net
Caribbean Sea (WLO)
NMG Broadcast
Offshore Forecast


FREQ
B
A
3855
3815
8137
7250
7086
B
8104
C
12350
A
C
B
12359
7086
A
3815
C
B
A


TYPE
Wefax
Voice
Voice
Voice
Voice
Voice
Voice
Wefax
Voice
Voice
Voice
Voice
Voice
Wefax
Voice
Voice
Voice
Voice
Voice
Wefax
Voice


MODE
USB
USB
LSB/ham
LSB/ham
USB (Note 2)
LSB/ham (Note 3)
LSB/ham (Note 1)
USB
USB (Note 2)
USB
USB (Note 2)
USB
USB
USB
USB
LSB/ham
USB
LSB/ham
USB
USB
USB


Frequencies (in kHz):
i,- A) NMN, Chesapeake, 4426, 6501, 8764, 13089, 17314.
Caribbean Sea approximately 25 minutes later.
NMG, New Orleans, 4316, 8502,12788.
Caribbean Sea approximately 25 minutes later.
B) 4316, 8502, 12788, 17144.5.
C) 4369, 8788, 13110, 17362, 22804. Gulf of Mexico, Southwest North Atlantic, then
Caribbean Sea

Note 1: An in-depth voice report followed by faxes and SSTV, except Sundays.
i .. Note 2: Unless severe weather threatens, this net is not conducted on Sundays. When there are
active Tropical systems in the Atlantic, Caribbean Weather (Chris) runs a Net at 2300
UTC / 1900 AST, on 8137, Voice, USB. For complete schedule and changes visit
www.caribwx.com/ssb.html
SNote 3 Gen.rge comes on at 0715 and gives a weather synopsis, then moves to 7086 and at
_, tthe complete Caribbean forecast including rebroadcasting WEFX.

WWV has World Marine Storm Warnings (Voice) at 8 minutes after each hour,
and Solar Flux information at 18 minutes after each hour on 2500, 5000, 10000, 15000,
S and 20000 AM.
During hurricane activity, information can be found continuously on the Hurricane Watch Net
on 14325 USB/ham.
Anyone, licensed or not, may legally operate on HAM frequencies in the event of a life
threatening emergency.

The BBC no longer broadcasts on HF shortwave in the Caribbean, but BBC news is broadcast on
many of the islands. See article on this page.
_. News, entertainment and sports can be heard on US Armed Forces Network radio broadcasts at
5466.5, 7811, and 12132 Mhz. Voice of America boradcasts for 30 minutes, three times a day: at
000UTC on 5890 USB, at 0130UTC on 7405, 9775 and 13740USB, and at 2100UTC on 11675USB.
' SELECTED CRUISERS' VHF NETS
English Harbour 0900 VHF 68/06 Daily
Grenada 0730 VHF 68 Monday-Saturday
Porlamar 0800 VHF 72 Monday Saturday
Puerto La Cruz 0745 VHF 72 Monday Saturday
St. Martin/Maarten 0730 VHF 14 Monday Saturday
Chaguaramas 0800 VHF 68 Monday Sunday


Thanks to William Mills ofToucan I, Teri Rothbauer (and the Thin Man) of FREE, Dave Richardson
ofOverstreet, Bill Campbell ofAlcheringa II, and the Pompas of Second Millennium for information,
which was correct to the best of our knowledge as this issue of Compass went to press.


' ' ~ ~


I











Understanding

Tropical Weather

and Hurricanes


by Clayton Lewis

What's a Tropical Wave?
The flow of the tradewinds in the band between the equator and mid-latitudes can
be affected by land features. During the summer in particular, the strong contrast
in Africa between the wet equatorial jungles and the dry, hot Sahara to the north has
a powerful influence on the northern hemisphere tradewind flow. Think of the
tradewind flow as a river and the African climate contrast as a writhing disturbance


Anatomy of a Hurricane


1. A hunicane 2. Air spirals 3. An area oflow 4 Cooler drier
?uli ir rnoisi uMward around pressure forms air i1 Dusnea
air from mhe Oi hurricane's on te ocean's downrds
.jrfac.e o3 Ire e9 e rtire ,I cool surface. where i is
ocean. This saus warmed by the
Ithundersrorms o sea. It te
form rises to continue
te cycle.

that tends to disrupt the flow. The result is that waves form in the river of air. These
waves have a period of about two days and, like any waves, consist of low and high
pressure bands. The bands stretch north and south from the equatorial area
upwards to mid-latitudes. You can think of them as enormous rollers that form over
Africa and roll west. The troughs, that is, the low pressure parts of the waves, are
called tropical waves. When a trough reaches far north it's called a "high amplitude"
wave; "low amplitude" waves don't stretch very far northward.
Tropical Waves don't form every two days except in the peak of the summer. If they
did, the six month hurricane season from June through November should see about
90 tropical waves. Instead we get about 60 per year as the historical average.
What is the ITCZ?
If you've read the classic cruising books -by Eric Hiscock or Miles and Beryl
Smeeton you will have read about the doldrums. In this era of acronyms that very
descriptive word has been replaced by "the ITCZ," the Inter Tropical Convergence
Zone. What is converging in the zone between the tropics are the two tradewind
bands, the southern hemisphere trades and our northern hemisphere trades. The
trades meet in the equatorial area where intense heat causes the rising of hot air.
This is where the tradewinds finally taper off. The ITCZ is characterized by large
amounts of moisture being driven aloft, resulting in heavy cloud formation, little
wind and frequent showers and thunderstorms.
The ITCZ, a.k.a. the doldrums, varies from about 20 to 150 miles wide and is most
intense when it is narrowest.
Strong winter trades in either hemisphere push the ITCZ away towards the other
pole. So in our winter, the ITCZ is pushed south, as far as 5 S. Likewise, strong
winter trades in the southern hemisphere push the ITCZ north during our summer,
sometimes as far as 15 N, bringing unsettled weather as it passes over us. This
north-south movement of the I.- i ..- behind the sun's annual north-south migra
tion by about two months, so 11' I i is farthest north in August, typically about
10 N. It is no coincidence that this is also prime hurricane season.
What Causes Hurricanes in the Mid-Atlantic?
Most Atlantic hurricanes start near tropical waves. We've all experienced the wind
patterns associated with a tropical wave; wind north of east as the wave approaches
and south of east behind i I' in; riding a satellite above the wave. You look down
and see the winds to the I I ,I. wave are coming from the northeast -angling
downward from your viewpoint while the southeast winds to the right of the wave are
1. i. .. 'ard from the equator. The cloud formations near tropical waves show
I' i .. left" and "up right" patterns and are known as the signature "inverted
V curvature" of a tropical wave, visible in satellite imagery.
Continued on next page


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-ontinued from previous page
Imagine standing just inside the inverted V. Winds on both sides are trying to spin
you counterclockwise, down-left and up-right. It's a prime location for cyclonic cir
culation to begin.
If tli TT,'" involvedd at the same time, pushing north with a bump protruding
into .... I i of a wave, it brings the southern trades into the picture. Now well
north of the equator, the southern trades bend to the right due to Coriolis Force,
adding westerly winds to the open bottom of our inverted V; this strong force helps
the system to rotate counterclockwise.
These conditions of interaction between a tropical wave and a northern bump in
the ITCZ are often implicated in forming tropical systems and can be the birthplace
of hurricanes.
Hurricanes and Water Temperatures
If you go to Chris Parker's site (http://caribwx.mwxc.com/marine.html) during the
hurricane season, the first thing in his forecast is the SST -the Sea Surface
Temperature. Of course, the reason is that SST is perhaps the most important factor
in the formation of hurricanes.
The average hurricane releases energy each day equivalent to 600 terawatts:
6x1014 Watts. What the heck does that mean in real-life terms? It's 200 times the
electric ... i... . ity of the entire world. All that energy comes from the warm
water, II I...... ... passes, sea temperatures are cooler by as much as 6C
(11F), in one case of a super typhoon, 9C (16F). All that energy has been absorbed
into the weather system with the evaporating water.
In order to have an adequate source of surface energy, the ocean should be at least
26C (79F). Furthermore, this layer of warm water should be at least 200 feet deep.
As the passing hurricane stirs up the water it can kill itself by dredging up water that
is too cool.
Sometimes when a hurricane runs over a particularly warm spot in the ocean (an
anomaly) such as the Gulf Stream or a war. I I i .- i, a rapid intensifica
tion. Meteorologists first recognized the :'". .1 ... I I I arm eddies during
Hurricane Opal in 1995. Opal encountered a warm-water eddy in the Gulf of Mexico and
.i ,, i ... ... i ....I i im Category 1 to Category 4 in only 14 hours. Both Katrina
SI I ,,, "' ,,, i .... i I to Category 5 over hot eddies in the Gulf of Mexico.
Similarly, a hurricane can stumble if it passes over a cooler area of water, such as
the track of a recent hurricane. This is one reason that it is rare to have two intense
storms in the same general area in the same season.
So long as the hurricane remains over warm water. I .... .... i ...l. Once it
hits land the source of fuel is gone and it runs out oi .... I .... ... I i i
Wind Shear, What is It?
Over and over again in the National Hurricane Center forecasts and Jeff Master's
blog (www.wunderground.com/blog/JeffMasters) we've been seeing the words "wind
shear" when a low threatens to develop into a tropical system. Low wind shear is
necessary for hurricanes to develop and high wind shear can cripple or collapse a
storm that has already developed.
Wind shear is the difference between the wind speed and direction at the jet stream
level and that at the surface. Ide-ll --1 -11-l-pin hulrri-n --nts zero wind shear
that is, no difference in speed . 1. .. I I. ... I .11 I I- from the surface
up to about 40,000 feet. Wind shear of 20 knots or less is considered "favorable for
hurricane development".
Here's why: The center of a hurricane system becomes a hollow column, like a
drinking straw, around which warm, moist air is sucked aloft. The column pumps
up water vapor, which cools and condenses, releasing untold energy and lots of rain.
This heat pump is the engine driving the hurricane. The straighter and more vertical
it is, the better it will pump. Higher winds aloft will tilt the column; a different wind
direction aloft will also 1.11 .1 '.. ...1. I.11 and the upper level core will be torn away
and detached from the .. ..I . .. I i.... it from below, killing the heat engine and
destroying the system.
What is Coriolis Force?
Coriolis Force plays a part in the formation of hurricanes and in steering them once
they form. But what is it?
The equator is 25,000 miles long. Imagine standing on the equator for a full 24
hours. As the earth spun through one revolution you would travel 25,000 miles to
the east in 24 hours -about 1,000 miles per hour. But if you stood still at one of
the poles for a whole day, you would not have traveled at all since you are at the
center, the axis, of the earth's rotation. (However, you would have very cold feet.)
Points between the equator and the poles move at different rates -fastest closest
to the equator. Points at 30 north or south latitude, for example, move at about
850 mph.
So imagine standing in Jacksonville, Florida, at 30N *" I i.,,,.1... a ball directly
south aiming at the point on the equator. You would be ........ I uito, Ecuador.
As you let go of the ball, you, the ball and Jacksonville are traveling east at about
850 mph but Quito is traveling east at 1,000 mph. By the time your ball dropped
on the equator, Quito would have moved well off to the east. The ball would fall into
the Pacific. Ifyoudrew ai ... .. .1I I follow ul. i. ., I Iii. i .1 ..i [
curve off to the rightof: ... ... I i II .I .1 Play .... ... .. I .,... I I ..
ing a ball from Quito aimed at Jacksonville directly to the north and you get the
same result the trajectory gets bent to the right because the ball is moving east
faster than Jacksonville. In fact, any flight of the ball in the northern hemisphere
will be deflected to the right. The apparent force causing this movement is named
the Coriolis Force. And it doesn't just affect balls! Air currents are subjected to the
same force.
In the southern hemisphere, Coriolis deflects trajectories to the left. Imagine fling
ing that ball again! This makes southern hemisphere tropical storms spin clockwise,
not counterclockwise as they do here in the north.
South Atlantic Hurricanes
The South Atlantic doesn't get hurricanes. Why is that?
Recall that most hurricanes are formed i iu .. i ...i i i i i ii
Tropical Convergence Zone (ITCZ) anda II, I I 1 I i i.
co-operate too, like wind shear and sea surface temperatures SSTs). But the
tropical wave factory in Africa lies mostly between the Sahara and the African
rainforest. That whole area is north of the equator. In the southern hemisphere
there is no tropical wave factory in Africa and so tropical waves are rare in the
South Atlantic.
Also, the ITCZ wanders around from season to season. It reaches about 15N but only
about 5S, and at 5S there isn't a strong enough Coriolis Force to start rotation.
Furthermore, the water of the South Atlantic is colder than our North Atlantic and
wind shear tend' I I i...1. I. - I ... .rid shear in the South Atlantic
don't tend to be: i i I ...... ..
So there are no -well, almost no -South Atlantic hurricanes. In March 2004
(the southern hemisphere equivalent of our September) the one and only South
Atlantic hurricane ever recorded went ashore in Santa Catarina in southeastern
Brazil. Since there was no ready list of names, it was named after the landfall.
Hurricane Catarina was a Category 1. Scientists still debate whether it is one more
sign of global climate change














-ontinued from page 26
I've seen so many things, both mine and other boaters', fixed at the docks for next
to nothing that I really think it's worth going to Cartagena just to get the boat
spruced up and tuned up. Just remember to bargain hard and compare prices before
making a deal.
Seven: Historic Cartagena
Let's get off the boat for Number Seven and check out Cartagena itself. I was told
to allow two months to "do" the historic port city of Cartagena. Two months? For the
last two years, you could more often than not find me there aboard my boat, stern-to
at Club Nautico -and I'm not finished yet. Even if you don't think of yourself as a
history buff, you can't help being overwhelmed by the sheer magnitude of the his
torical stuff around you.
This is the only Spanish colonial town the British never took. (Read the story of the
last big battle in the visitors' guide). Consequently the 500-year-old wall still stands
around the old town district. The Club Pesca marina is actually built inside one of the
walls. You can walk orjog around the entire town on the wall (about four miles). There
are innumerable old residences, churches, restaurants and stores inside. Be sure to
check out some of the very well done museums, such
as the naval museum and the museum of the wall, i
(located of course in the wall itself). From breakfast to ,., ,
nightlife, you can get all the necessities of life in spe- ,
cialty shops or from vendors on the lively streets. It's
fun to go there, especially at night, and have a beer at I
one of the many indoor/outdoor bars, one of which is
filled with antique nautical memorabilia.
The whole city and its environs are in the safe zone.
Cartagena is the home of the Colombian navy and
military so there are lots of uniforms walking around.
Outside the wall you will find some of the bigger chan
dleries and a very nice wholesale fish store that sells
to the public at the same price as to the restaurants.
The two big tourist attractions outside the wall are the
convent on top of the hill and the big fort. Cartagena
was protected by a series of small forts that the British
did manage to blow up, but the big one, and I mean
big, is completely intact. It is so big it takes the better
part of a day to see it all.
The people are friendly. Cartagena is a tourist destination for Colombians, too. I
could go on about art, architecture and bullfights, but I hope you get the idea that
Cartagena is the logical place to start a Colombian adventure.
Six: Food
Number Six may get a couple of snickers. In fact, a lot of people will question my
sanity when I say you should come to Colombia for the food. But hear me out. If
you've come from the east you've been trying to figure out how (and why) to eat the
bones in goat rotis in Trinidad, the mystery meat at "Chinese" restaurants in the
Guyanas, and the unidentifiable gourd soups in Venezuela. Up to now, hot sauce
was a major food group and "fine dining" meant some of the bones and shells were
removed before the food was cooked. If you've come from the west, you are painfully
aware that "fine dining" meant choosing your favorite US fast-food restaurant from
the hundred or so available; not exactly a culturally enriching experience. South of
a Mexican taco shack and west of a Trinidadian roti hut, I haven't been able to find
a local dish I can remember and I'd rather forget the roti.
Now I'll admit you won't get Colombia mixed up with France. But when I arrived
(from the east) it was immediately clear that there was a big improvement in the diet.
Green vegetables made an appearance, the soups became thicker, like a stew or
goulash, and potatoes often replaced dasheen. My personal favorite soup, ajiacos,
actually had cream in it instead of water and pepper. This and sancocho are memo-
rable native Colombian dishes.
I just love street food. When I first got here, the dramatic improvement in street
food forced me to return to my morning running habit. (If you are a runner, time
your morning run on the wall to end at the front street bakery, which opens at 8
o'clock.) The old town street food is the most fattening. They have a whole street
dedicated to candy. (It's the first main street as you enter through the wall -talk
about having priorities in order.) Fresh baked rolls, an ice-cold tangerine drink to die
for, and hot fresh arepas are readily available at short intervals. From sunrise to
about 10:00AM you can get your favorite empanada
Lastly, being a true tourist destination, Cartagena has true fine dining, complete with
a healthy tab. What makes it special is Colombia's relationship with Argentinean beef.
Here they have the same cattle and the same ...1. .. .... .... .-.. 1. ., .... ..
and so they have the same thick juicy steak' I i,, i, .,, ...... .... .....
course, they import some from Argentina as well. It is a welcome change from the paper
thin shoe leather they pass off as steak in Central America. I could go on -especially
about coffee, seafood, and Momo's ice cream -but there's more to Colombia.
Five: Pretty Women
Number Five I'm putting right in the middle to be politically correct. The one
Colombian national resource that surpasses even coffee is pretty girls. Now we know
why Juan Valdez is always smiling. If you are a single male this is paradise. If you


are married, think of it like bird watching. It is absolutely impossible to stand any
where in Cartagena or Bogota and not see at least one or two Tens. Statistically, if a
Colombian woman has four daughters, three of the girls will ..........i ,,I ,,,
and the fourth merely pretty. And, there are at least six wor. ,, ..... i,
only place you can find more men than women is a motorcycle repair shop. Gorgeous
women are born in the mountain coffee towns of Medellin, Manizales and Call (must
be something in the water) and come to the big cities to work and look for husbands.
And yes, there's been a lovely one on my boat for the last few years.
Four: Bogota's Attractions
For Number Four you have t- 1- -- 1 -1 .-t .-; mcnd hop a plane to the city
of Bogota. Take a coat; you1 .11 .11 1 .... .- ..i- year, every day. Bogota is
big, like Manhattan. It is the seat of the government: another big safe zone with lots
of police. Still, the "don't be stupid" rules apply.
Why come to Bogota? It's not really a tourist destination as much as a capital city.
In all capital cities there are usually a couple of must-sees. Bogota is no exception,
but first you have to eat. One good reason to i I to leave and take the
25-minute taxi ride to Chia for the Saturday .11 ... .. .... i." at Andres Carne de
Res. This is unquestionably the best and most fun
restaurant in Colombia, bar none. Its a steak house
,, the size of a football field, with four or five bars, a
kid's area, roving entertainers (not guitar players), a
really big salad bar and a really, really big grill where
you can talk to the cooks while they fix your steak. It's
crowded. It's fun. It stays open late on Saturday for
the elite of Bogota, but it's basically a five-hour party
with lunch starting around 1:00PM. Take a taxi there
unless you speak really good bus Spanish, but take a
bus back, it's a lot cheaper.
Spend three nights in BogotA. On i .n I i,,
go up the hill and eat at the steak ..... ,I I I
Mirador la Paloma. Fifteen minutes up the mountain
or about two thousand feet up, it is indoor/outdoor
with a fireside at every table. It has an unbelievable
view of the city at night, great food and is incredibly
romantic. Take a coat. Some :...1. i there is a street
party right there on the side I ,I, mountain. If it's
on, be sure to go and buy a hot toddle. The steak
house on the right is fine dining, indoors, warmer and more expensive, with the
same view. On the third night go I 1 I Zona Rosa. Like similar districts in
Charlotte, Dallas, or Miami, this I I I II section of downtown has four or five
square blocks of neat and unique bars and restaurants to choose from. There are
lots of choices besides steak. After dinner, one block over is a series of nice discos.
One day, hop the train, which stops at the other end of the valley at the salt moun
tain, where Bogota's second most important attraction lies. Proof that this whole
high mountain valley was once under the ocean, the mountain is 85-percent salt and
is thus part of Colombia's source for same. Being good Catholics and hard workers,
the miners wanted a chapel in the salt mine so they could attend Sunday service
without leaving. They got one. Being made of rock salt, though, it deteriorated over
the y .- I I i ,, I I .11, ,,. considerable attention as a novel idea. When the
bids ..1 1 ... .. .. .... I the 1960s, famous religious architect types from
all over the world responded to build an even bigger and better monument to God
and miners. And they did.
You have to see this. It takes three to four hours to go through (with a guide who
speaks English) so it's an all-day affair. It's way down deep and cold. So bring a coat
and be prepared for a religious experience. And yes, you can buy beer on the train.
The main reason that you have to come to Bogota is the gold museum. Even if you
are not into Incas, you gotta love gold. Covering two square city blocks and four
stories tall, this has to be one of the top ten museums of the world. Ever wonder
where the real El Dorado (city of gold) was? Find out at the -11 -;;;;-: .e the
coat, take the tour in English until you are worn out, then i. 1 1 11. I ,,, 1, floor
dark room. Do not miss the fourth floor dark room.
Three: Villa de Leiva
For Number Three, pretend you are a Spanish viceroy 400 years ago. You are going
on vacation to the town of Villa de Leiva. A two to three-hour drive through the
mountains north of Bogota (still in the safe zone) in a rental car will get you to this
quaint cobblestone-street village that has served as a getaway for the upper classes
for almost 500 years. Think Jasper, Canada, or Vail, Colorado, in the summer.
Check in to the old hacienda three or four blocks from the town center. You could
be staying in the same room Christopher Columbus stayed in. (Okay, maybe his
son.) Check out the view through the kitchen, then the Olympic-sized swimming pool
made with fossils. It's true, this is fossil country. Find them just lying around all over
or visit the nearby fossil museum, once again proving that the high mountains of
Colombia were once an ocean floor.
Talk about an old town, here you will find all kinds of unique shops, bars, restau
rants, etcetera. In addition, now that you have a car, you can visit the nearby pueblos
that offer their own entertainment, including a vineyard, fossil places, etcetera. Relax
a few days here, because next we're going to a really big party.
Two: Cali
For Number Two, you will need to return to Bogota
and hop a plane to Cali. The timing here is a little dif
ficult, but you need to arrive in Cali just before January
1st for the opening bullfights of the South American
tour. Another more remote safe zone in the western
mountains, Cali is a small and beautiful village which
has become famous for (besides beautiful women)
Sthe openers of this most Spanish of sports.
'I" I or not you like .iil., .....d whether or not
you actually go to the I ,.II-,.I-. i4 irrelevant. The
adventure here is a weel I ,, .1 .., with a bullfight
every day, ending around cocktail hour, followed by
parties at every possible location. You can dress up
and hobnob with the creme de la creme of Bogota in
the fancy hotel lobbies, or mix with the middle class in
the town squares, or hang with the old bar flies at the
local pubs. But in every case you can expect the mata
dors of the day to pull up beside you and discuss the
successes or failures of their turns, along i. .- .i
bull stuff. Read Hemingway's bullfight bo< i 1. .
the Afternoon, before you go. Its like that, and being
familiarwiths ,,, ,i, .. iii., Thengoback
to Cartagena E,, I -I1 I ...... i ,,, February.
One: Bragging Rights
I The Number One reason to go to Colombia is to tell
4 | B your friends and make them jealous.
















iLOS LLANOS, VEN


WThile our
yacht, ill
O-the Wisp,
was hauled out and
being painted in a
boatyard on the
Venezuelan coast
earlier this year, my
husband Walt and I
decided to head for
the hills. We traveled
inland, where Pico
Bolivar, the highest
mountain in
Venezuela at over 15,000 feet, looms above the
city of Merida. You can view the peak up close
by taking the teleferico, a cable car built by the
French in 1952. We rode to the top and donned
our heavy coats and hats to withstand the harsh
winds while gazing in awe at the view of the
Andes mountain -nT- Then we took the cable
car back down to I. -- feet and disembarked
to hike at that altitude. We were practicing for
our Peru hike, which will be at 14,000 to 16,000 fe ,1 i
slowly, we could slow our heart rate and control the d ... I
Picchu here we come.
The next adventure in Merida was para-gliding. The ....... ..
long jeep ride up a mountain road was worth the pri( .....i--
The weather forecast at a small town at the base of th .... ., i
the pilots to wait awhile for the winds to abate. So i
visited the street vendors where we feasted on corn on I1. i ,
over a wood fire and a kabob of mystery beef and pot. .........
Then we were off to the top and another spectacular ..... ,
instruction was given. In fact, the 'i 1., 1" was a -
"Hold on here, and sit down when I II .. So, any .. ... i II,
-not much skill is required as long as you have a t i... I i ..
can do those two things. Walts flight got off to a bu:..i -i .. i
ever, when the wind pushed him and his pilot back i ...


After a
false start..


one fell down, including the two guys i ... 1, 11 them. They waited a few minutes
for the wind to calm down and then 11 11
What an incredible sensation para-gliding is! It was surreal and scary at the
same time.
We spent a few more days hiking some of the smaller mountains, taking pictures
and getting fit, and enjoying our posada. Mama Tila's. We stumbled upon this family
run hostel upon arriving in Merida. For 75,000 bolivars we had a private room with
cable television that had CNN in English and some movie channels; our own bath
room with hotwater; and daily i. I .... i I ,. ,i I i , .- towels and
sheets, and small pa. i I I I ...- i, .. I ... US dollars
months ago and received a good rate when ,11. .. 'my wasn't in a
-. .. I. *100 bolivars equaled US$15. Today it would be closer to
I I"- '11 L great deal.
I .. -i I the wide-open plains of Venezuela, we decided to take
S-. i ..i I e-day excursion to Los Llanos, where we were promised
-..I. I i..... idas, anteaters and hundreds of birds. It sounded like
Si ..... I .. f sorts. We were not disappointed in the least. We even
|111 I "1 ,, i lng and white-water tubing, where we saw a dozen or so
Si.111. i. 1 .1-o held a baby caiman and saw a prehistoric turtle and
herds of capybara, the world's largest rodent, which
grows to as much as 120 pounds. And there were
nt-ltr Xr vrl-t ii r-seate spoonbills, tiger
storks, tanagers and
red-tailed hawks.
Now we are back on
the boat, which is still
on the hard, putting
everything back
together after the
.......... paint job. We're look
ing forward to two
..,,, months in Peru hiking
and touring during
the months of May
and June.
"' l


Simplicity.





Reliability.




Long life.


MERIDA
(, i..,., ,...- s


ALL ASHORE...
















ALL ArS HOR-" El0 ...


by Devi Sharp

It was raining when we piled out of Jesse James' maxi-taxi at 9:00 in the
S"e were a few miles north of Brasso Seco on the north central coast
i i Rain seemed appropriate in the rainforest -how would these giant
trees and vines grow without plenty of rain? Nine of us crui 1. 1 : ...- 1 up
for a hike to Madams r;- and the Sobo River Double .1 .1 .11- ere
well fueled with the i ..i (Trinidad's national breakfast food) that we had
eaten in the town ofArima and we were ready for a hike in "da bush" with our
-; l T .;;;-- Pierre, better known as Snake.
I i ,1 walk on a very muddy rutted road that climbed gently. Everyone
up here knows Snake and he hoots as he approaches a house. Even the dogs
see Snake as a friend. After a chat with a farmer tending a field of eddo, dasheen
and citrus, we started to walk through deep forest. We had entered the territory
of the Bearded Bellbird, a denizen of undisturbed rainforest. Male bellbirds
defend their territory by announcing their presence with a loud "bock". Bellbirds
are great ventriloquists, which makes it very difficult to locate them in the mid
canopy of the rainforest. We were there to hike and the rain was not very con
du-i--- t- 1--l1i; f-r birds, so we continued our walk to the Madamas River.
I.. 1i 1 ii. .. ... the river was clear as cellophane. We donned ,,, i .
ets, made minor changes to our clothing and headed downriver. i
gorge hikes, I have learned that I tend to get a bit chilly, so I wear a wetsuit vest.
Since you have to plan
on getting everything in
your pack wet, a small
dry bag protected all of
my gear in my daypack.
We swam through
pools and climbed around
and over boulders. A few
s boulders presented the
opportunity for small
jumps into pools. Most of
the water on the canyon

deep but now and again
we had to swim through
pools where the water
was over our heads.
Backstroking through
one pool, I watched bats
fly from roosts on the
gorge walls. It seemed
like a bellbird was follow-
ingus,';tl t; t i
a busy I I I,
territories. The liquid
sound of the descending
notes of a .i
woke me fro ... i .,
daydream and brought
me back to the very green
world. The word verdant
came to mind. There is a
certain deliciousness in
floating in fresh water,
deep in a canyon, after
months of living on a sailboat at anchor in the Caribbean.
. e I .,. ..... .. I 'he Madamas River and a side stream and walked
upF -. -I ..... I .1 of lunch and picked the gravel out of our shoes.
Snake amused himself by feeding bits of his sandwich to the crayfish and fresh
water shrimp that we could see in the limpid water. There was no mark or sign
to "turn left here"; Snake knows the trails and has a variety of routes in his mind
in the event of a rising river or the need to seek high ground quickly. Snake
laughed and joked with us, but he was always watching to see that we were all
doing okay and that the weather did not threaten us with a flooded canyon. It
had been raining off and on all day, but there was no sign that the river was
rising or that a side stream was flooding.
At another unmarked spot, Snake announced that we would start walking
through the woods. After about 20 minutes of following a faint trail through tall
trees we reached a road. We had made a loop and were back on the road that
we had started on. We left our packs at a trail junction and walked about a
quarter of a mile to a waterfall. It was one of those dramatic waterfalls that
shoots out of a nick in the canyon wall. The water then free falls down about
200 feet. We all swam and washed the mud off our shoes and clothes. Jesse,
our driver, and owner of Members Only Maxi Taxi Service, led the group up on
a short rock climb under the falls. Jesse had an ear to ear grin as water pound
ed on his head and shoulders; he obviously spends too much time behind the
wheel of the maxi and on the phone. At the end of a wonderful hike through the
gorge of the Madamas River this waterfall was like dessert after a luscious meal.
We were satiated and tired.
Back at our -I .,, ,,. ,it we changed into dry clothes and piled into Jesse's
maxi. Instead I , ..... our route through Arima, we drove north through
Maracas Beach and caught the last open Bake and Shark stand. We washed
our Bake and Shark down with a cold beer and headed back to our boats
at Chaguaramas.

Devi and her husband Hunter are currently exploring the Caribbean in their
sailboat. Arctic Tern.


-A L" .AT 0 4 rL r.


COIUma 01.)ivsREIarsA VS & A sIA TS A 4O FLrJLuIrL
innrrw coernr T caRacAS aMD orN m ortr rr uECAN aEs7wnaTrO
OEM WEPARpuFRE ME 12 Jf4
S fiianac rrcrns A rVarrrI upr 1arAIrMUrEM


A.u!s wrr ocinsnT.
U'llrx J/.raa I-nlArimr



SLAJtI r rm CI Ll ur


ajirs ,- r rJ

S.Jmrc r nv uJrr ruj. rcar'

uOnriA r cw ,lIrNPi
pjnysjrxj -ajrn onarfumurn


GLI lldalda


* I












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Salty Sailor



Saves Lives

by Bev Bate
Our 19-foot canoe on an inland lake in British Columbia, Canada, had served us
well for many years as we explored the wilderness. Then came the gigantic leap to a
42-foot ocean-going sailboat purchased in Florida. We decided to spend our first hur
ricane season on Grand Bahama Island at Ocean Reef Marina and Resort to tackle an
immense '-; ;in;; -;rve ahead of us before we ventured into the world of cruising.
Docked i -1. away was a couple living on their sailboat with their teenage
son, long-time cruisers also waiting out hurricane season. With a wealth of experi
ence and knowledge under their belts, we thought we had found the perfect men
tors. Rick was a rough and tough salty character who had spent the better part of
i.i .,. i told stories of his adventures at sea that were somewhat scary to
Rick was a little cautious at first when he observed us trying to solve a problem that
he knew could be handled much differently with better results. He would saunter over
to our boat seemingly to shoot the breeze, and then gently ask if we minded if he made
a suggestion. You've got to be kidding... mind? "Please, please", I responded, "We are
open books, ready and willing to learn everything you are willing to teach us. We will
never be offended by you telling us there's a better way to do something." That was all
Rick needed. From then on Rick, his wife anc ,11. I .... I Dame the teachers
and we the sponges soaking up every tidbit ol I I i i. willing to impart.
As Rick's boat spent considerable time at Ocean Reef, some birds decided to make
a nest in their radar reflector that was suspended high up on the mast well away
from predators. They laid their eggs and eventually three little chicks hatched. Just
about that time Rick and his family realized they had to make a trip back to Florida
but they now had a feathered family to consider. After some agonizing Rick decided
that the chicks' parents would likely follow them to Florida as he was sure they
wouldn't abandon their young.
























I b ll, i i \,\


With a sense of sadness we waved goodbye to this family we had grown very fond
of as they left the dock and headed for Port Lucaya, about three miles away, to fuel
up before leaving on their trip to Florida. About two hours later we heard a familiar
voice outside our boat and, to our delight, there stood Rick, holding the radar reflec
tor with the baby birds nestled in the cup. To his dismay the parents did not follow
his boat to Port Lucaya and he decided he had to return the chicks to Ocean Reef.
So our rough and ready cruising buddy lowered the radar reflector from the mast
where it was hung, cradled it in his arms, hopped in a mini-bus and took the short
jaunt back to Ocean Reef. He wanted to return the babies to a location close to where
his boat had been docked. He hung the reflector on a post at the end of the dock and
carried on his way. What a guy! He cared enough to make a special trip in a mini
bus in hopes of saving the lives of three baby birds.
We checked on the nest periodically that day and became concerned that the resi
dent cats that freely roamed 11I. I ...... 1.i 1 the nest. It was hung a little
too low and accessible so we i, i i .1 I to hang it. Voila! A boat for
sale, docked next to where Rick's boat had been and that hadn't seen any prospective
buyers, seemed to be the perfect solution. It wasn't likely to be leaving the dock soon.
My husband, Bill, i. ..1 .1 .1 i. i listedd the reflectc- ;; tl,- ;1,..t .1 1 l ;- i t out of
harm's way from I i... .... the baby birds .. i .1 wait
ing for the parents to recognize the call of their young and return to the nest.
Yes, there is a happy ending. Within a few hours the parents returned to the nest
and continued to feed and nurture the young as they grew and prepared to leave the
nest. We monitored it every day until one day we could no longer see three tiny heads
poking out. Bill climbed up and found an empty nest. The young ha i i, .i.
Thanks to Rick and his family, three baby birds had a chance to :"..' I' I'
and two newbie cruisers were better informed through the imparted sailing wisdom
to launch out on their own.


I















Then and Now, or... WOL

by John St. John



When I first bought my new (for me) sailboat that was going to take me anywhere,
things were going to be different. And they are way different now!
Graduating from a 1934 hard-chined, moldy, wooden Southern Yacht Club "Gulf One
classic, I remember being instantly sold on the old Pearson Vanguard when I
: ... I absolutely crispy, dry paper bag in drop storage, not to mention a brand-new
Kubota diesel engin- r- lI-iT;; the old Atomic Four lying on the cabin sole.
I brought that I I I I 14 years up to the same boat that has successfully
brought me single-handed to the Caribbean three times. Its tough as a truck.
When I bought the boat, there were these Levelor blinds on the salon windows that
were near to top of my list of things to remove till a few friends commented on how
much they liked them. Now I would not trade them for gold (well, maybe gold). They
knock the sunlight up but you can still see out through the slits. They are about the
only things I didn't change.
A brand-new engine required the absolute removal (as in grinding out) of the old
engirn- -...- -t .-1 1--. up lower ones. I had to enlarge i .... I I DO, as the
new ,,..... I ... I one inch higher and two inche' I ., ,I ,I I than the
old one. I distinctly remember being so bummed out that it ruined my whole day
because the new box could be covered with one 4x8 sheet of teak veneer, but the
vertical ri-;-1 ---" :-in t- h---- h-ri ontal grain pattern. Hah! That was then!
After I,11 ,,, I i... .. -I occasions took a header down below and hit
the side of the boat skull first, I screwed wooden "U" brackets into that beautiful
(well, practical anyway) teak veneer and now have drop-in shoulder-high and waist
high rails running the length of the salon, which makes moving about down below
while going to weather an injury-free task.

_.M V%._


Avot pretty, DUt tt worns
Above: Shoulder and waist high rails prevent injury below in heavy weather
Top right: The former dining table is now a permanent berth
bucket in every craft I had owned up to that point, here I was blessed
n n11 ,I ..iI porcelain Perko toilet, complete with brori- iri-;r tr iiht out of
1964. Still practicing law and earning money to leave "for I I -... '.1 projects
at night while readying the boat for all battles with the great unknown. One inspired
brainstorm was to polish and clear-Imron that classic crapper, and spend nearly 70
bucks on a rebuild kit and manual. The second time I had to take that artwork apart
becau it -t 1 -1 1 recalled nostalgically that I had never needed a manual or
spare I I ,, I I which is stupid-simple to troubleshoot. The masterpiece left
the boat and was replaced by a beautiful, varnished, lidded, mahogany-seated
bucket, which -except for once when I stepped on the rope -has worked without
fail. (BIG TIP: Always, and I mean without fail, hold the coiled rope in your hand.)
I once stood on my head for a whole day cleverly hiding the fresh water pump
under a quarter berth, which all too soon became the garage. The second time I had
to work on it, I spent another day re-plumbing it inside the engine box. I had no sor
row the next two times I had to work on it. In an almost mirror image, I spent an
equal amount of time wiring my voltage regulator and engine-compartment exhaust
fan under the other quarter berth, which all too soon became my closet. Suffice it to
say, it is no longer that way now.
The boat dl- '-r': 1 i---- in the salon was to have a "table in your stomach"
dinette layo I. I... speed wrench, it became a big double berth pretty
much right in the middle of the boat. The third time I cranked that thing down, it
stayed down forever. That's now my double bed in the meta-center of the boat, which
:- ...... ... i. .. i. ... the roughest of conditions, while out towards to the ends
I I n i i ,.- ... ... around pretty radically. I have since taken out the cen
tral leg, which was in the way of storing things underneath.
Back then, I spent countless hours insulating my top-access icebox. I have since
given up all manner of refrigeration, and now eat mostly fresh vegetables that last
without refrigeration (e.g. onions, garlic, cabbage, peppers, celery and plantains.) My
icebox now stores anything 11, -i .i, I I .. I I too hot, like olive oil, tahini, popcorn,
vitamins, nuts and honey. I. .. 11. I ,,, I, insulation on the underside of the lid
fell off, voila -more storage room!
Back then, I neatly hid stuff like wires to stereo speakers and feed lines for weather
chart plotters behind trim. Now, as the equipment quits (and it all does!), I just leave
the old wiring and do a rewire where I can see ... 1 : I .1 r inch. Now, wires run
everywhere. I use : .-1 :rounded extension 1- I ..id fat-tipped polarized
zip cords for DC. II .. -minute job to change them when they go bad (and all
wires go bad). There are 12-volt terminal blocks exposed on every major bulkhead
where I can wire and undo ... 11i,,,. I ,.-1 with the turn of two screws and also
check voltage with the touch .....I II ,
No, it is not pretty but it works, and I have delivered too many pretty boats that
did not work. And the best part is, my boat is no longer pretty enough to rob.


of the meridian passage (or zenith) of the moon for this and next month, will help you
calculate the tides.
Water, Don explains, generally tries to run toward the moon. The tide starts running
to the east soon after moonrise, continues to run east until about an hour after the
moon reaches its zenith (see TIME below) and then runs westward. F ... I .11 I
moon's setting to just after its nadir, the tide runs eastward; and : .... I
nadir to soon after its rising, the tide runs westward. Tl'1 local.
Note: the maximum tide Is 3 or 4 days after the new n 11 ... ..
For more information, see 'Tides and Currents" on the back of all Imray Iolaire
charts. Fair tides!
DATE TIME 22 0243 10 1810
1 0931 23 0329 11 1854
2 1030 24 0413 12 1940
3 1135 (new) 25 0457 13 2028
4 1242 26 0541 14 2118
5 1349 27 0628 15 2210
6 1451 28 0719 16 2310
7 1547 29 0814 17 2352
8 1638 30 0914 18 0000 (full)
9 1724 19 0040
10 1808 20 0127
11 1849 July 2008 21 0212
12 1931 DATE TIME 22 0256
13 2013 1 1020 23 0340
14 2058 2 1127 (new) 24 0426
15 2144 3 1231 25 0514
16 2233 4 1332 26 0606
17 2323 5 1426 27 0702
18 0000 (full) 6 1516 28 0804
19 0015 7 1602 29 0908
20 0106 8 1645 30 1013
21 0156 9 1728 31 1115


',7frvr vad Acvd IAP


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Diag. gaw r 6 Lfr nt w asidH


0 Ph..f, PaR inw IC4r
0 TrdI ad mun
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Tiki Bar & Pizzeria -

S. ... ..




Lance Aux Epines, SI. Gcnrgc's, Grenada W.I.

Tet 1473) 439 5365 F[a. (473) 439 5%S., infora prikll li lirnnJrnJ ~o




































JUNE 2008


Y ARIES (21 Mar 20 Apr)
This month you should concentrate on boat business and
on repairing any weak areas in your onboard systems.
d TAURUS (21 Apr 21 May)
This should be a quiet time for you. Time to furl the
sails, sit back in the cockpit and enjoy some calm in your
usually busy life.
SGEMINI (22 May 21 Jun)
Si ... i the doldrums, especially
,', Ih. I IIh, I 'ime to make plans for new
11 keep your way on for the

CANCER 1 2 Jl 2 3 Jul)
S 'i 'i i 'i i' *.. this a very good
.... 11 i i.... Make the most of it.
Q LEO (24 Jul 23 Aug)
Get your onboard projects i make room
for a new love interest, who 11 '.i r anchorage
in the last week.
TH VIRGO (24 Aug 23 Sep)
There may be sudden squalls for the first two weeks,
and then a definite becalmed attitude on your part during
the last two.
SLIBRA (24 Sep 23 Oct)
S . i i i ---spirit of fun
S ...... i ,i11 n i. h .. i. I _,,,,,,, I i m onth. H ave
11 11 1 1 1 1 1 1 let the good
Snonth.
TFSCORPIO (24 Oct 22 Nov)
... se. ii i life is sail
,i.. .. . 1. , i. 1 .1, .. . it could be

SSAGITTARIUS (23 Nov 21 Dec)
Comnr.--- --"ll 1 -;--F--1 nd this could have a
Si 11 it to. Your
I' III' II II II.... to clarity.
CAPRICORN (22 Dec 20 Jan)

for the tide to turn. Dont be surprised if all the negativity
has a temporary effect on business.
= AQUARIUS (21 Jan 19 Feb)
.I your companions while aspects allow. Next
.1 1. your love life could be hitting rough weather, so
enjoy it now.
SPISCES (20 Feb 20 Mar)
S ..... .. .. I creativity are in irons
i. i' i .... il, your love life should
i i i i i i during the second half.








Crossword Solution

ACROSS DOWN 18) VERSE
2) VERVE 1) VII 19) VOLLEY
4) VVV 3) VOLUNTARY 20) VRACH
7) VIGIA 4) VIEW 21) VIVA
8) VOLUNTEER 5) VERITAS 22) VOUT
9) VON 6) VIN
10) VISINE 7) VOLUME
13) VENUS 8) VISNE
14) VERNAL 10) VOILE
15) VOYOL 11) VIE
18) VIRGO 12) VANITY
19) VORTEX 13) VOLCANO
20) VOYAGE 14) VOLUTE
21) VULFE 15) VERTEX
23) VOUCHER 16) VOYAGERS
24) VIENNA 17) VICEROY


REAL MEN

NEVER SAY ROGER

The VHF is a wonderful tool,
But it's ever so easy to sound like a fool.
Never say "roger" or "over and out";
You can always say nothing if you're in doubt.

Six-eight and sixteen are not for chat,
It's amazing how many people do that.
Move to a channel to talk to your mates,
To sort your bookings and arrange your dates.

When you're asked to switch channels, confirm that you've heard
B- eqint the channel to which you're referred.
Y .. I I lost in the ether and sound far from cool,
If you choose to forget this invaluable rule.

Never keep calling a station in vain;
If they don't hear with two calls its terribly plain
That you're filling the air with superfluous noise,
And take it from me, you're not one of the boys.

American channels are numbered the same
As some international ones I could name.
You just cannot use the two systems as one.
If you try to do it, you're in for some fun.

There's another piece of advice you should hear. .
Remember this and you've nothing to fear.
For voice, channel 70 won't work at all.
It's solely for making a digital call.

Signal strength of "seven by ten"
Means nothing at all; you are quite wrong again.
The RST code is simple and fine. -
A really good signal is just "five by nine".

If you carry around a neat hand-held set,
You're asking for trouble, I'm willing to bet.
The transmit button is easily pressed:
To block channel 16 you'll be doing your best.

And finally, think of a sensible name.
Some of the boat names are simply insane.
Rumpleteaser of Connecticut looks great on the stem,
But to spell it phonetically is a concern.

So before you get hold of the radio mike
And press the button as hard as you like,
Cut out the jargon; keep it short and discreet,
Because we're listening, too, throughout the fleet.


John Lytle


parlumps marooned


L,










Compass Cruising Crossword
JI I *2 1 1 1 I 1I


'Nautical

Alphabet: V2'

ACROSS











DOWN
Crossword S.,,,,,,olution on, ,,page 36
-i I i i .. .. I ., I ... i
ioI s i, I S1ol t ,g




I hI I I
,I I, I ,, Ih

I I I, . I


Types Of Boats
Word Search Puzzle by Pauline Dolinski
For every cruiser there is the perfect boat. At some time or other, you will see
every one of these boats in the Caribbean. Search for your favorite first.

CANOE RE LWA R T C AC
ROWC R U I S I NG H A T H
U S E U J F F L D O D C T U A
I A G T S RA C I NGAAO R
S I S T H E AMN K C Y MBT
EL L E T I G U GAP R A A E
OBORNG NL H YOG R N R
S OO L L H I T Y AWC AU H
KAP K L T H I UK E L N RO
I T I WE E S H E G R A V B B
F F A N D R I U M E S U U C
FYDSHAFLOTESTRE
PEA BAT T L E S H I PRY
RI K E T C H A G N I C A R B
L F I R E AMA K T U B T O K


BARE FISHING SAILBOAT
BATTLESHIP FREIGHTER SKIFF
SLOOP
CANOE KAYAK STEAM
CATAMARAN KETCH SUB
CHARTER
CLASSIC MULTIHULL TENDER
CRUISE TRAWLER
CRUISING POWER TUB
CUTTER TUG
RACING
DINGHY ROW YACHT
FIRE RUNABOUT YAWL
Word Search Puzzle solution on page 46














RO"UISNl KDl'C R [ I N1E'


i maid Merry and Gem were off on a secret honeymoon
,I .- their fantastic wedding, busy builders had been hard
i ork constructing the perfect home for a Merman and
a Mermaid. You haven't forgotten, have you, that Mermen like to live in the calm
deeps of the sea while Mermaids are happiest in coral homes in reefs that sparkle
with golden sunlight?
So you're wondering why did they choose a Seamount to live on, and what is a
Seamount anyway? Now, although true
Seamounts are old volcanoes way off in the deep
est oceans and never reach all that close to the
surface, the Seamounts I want to tell you about
are within the reach of Mermen and Mermaids
and are really wonderful things; pinnacles that
rise from the bottom of not-so-deep seas, reach
ing up to the sun like the tops of mountains try
ing to kiss the sky.
These Seamounts are oases in the scarcely
populated seas where reef fish and reef crea
tures of all sorts can find a refuge if they get
carried out to sea. Indeed, they thrive so well on
these sea hilltops that they make them their
permanent homes, have their families there and
live in peace and security away from many of the
predators who visit the inshore reefs. Yes,
there's a lot to be said for making your home on
a Seamount.
Now then, back to Mermaid Merry and Gem's by Lee
new home. A team of Rock-Boring Sea Urchins
and Chitons had burrowed rooms out of the hard
coral rock and the rough edges had been plas
tered over by Reef Cement, the Red Algae that
look so much prettier than ours. Golden Tube
were already established on the Seamount and so they sent off some of their
11-i '". to decorate the area around the new home. Azure Vase n- i. ..
*,,I ii electric blue frills and veins set themselves next to the ,. i, ,, i I
as mail boxes while Strawberry Vase Sponges crowded around in case they were
needed too. Of course the Lavender and Purple Rope Sponges turned to face this new
castle and waved their long arms about in a busybody way.
And what about turrets? No true castle is complete without them, so the Pillar
Corals sat like towers on the rooftop, their fuzzy polyps glowing a soft gold in the
wavering light from the sun shining through the ripples above.
Venus Sea Fans clustered about too, and their job was to keep the castle cool
when need be by fanning the colder water currents into the windows when they
were open. Green, sweet Sea Grapes were soon gr"" ing niol'l" in -"indow boxes,
along with rows of tender Sea Lettuce and deep gre i - ... I to add to the
beauty of the whole construction. Sea Pearls big and small found nooks and cran
nies to fill. However, the decorations and plantings were nowhere near complete, as
it was thought best to let the new occupants put the finishing touches to their new
home themselves.
At last the day came when Mermaid Merry and Gem were to arrive. The whole
Seamount was buzzing with excitement and all fish, big and small and of every
colour of th ... 1 ............ ... 1 i. like impatient children on Christmas
morning. i ...... I. ....... I i, message rang out and everyone held
theirbreatl- .... i i i i 1, i ,,,.
There was a loud cheer as Gem and Merry swam up to the castle door hand in


hand. Merry clapped her hands with delight and turned to all her new friends and
thanked them and said how beautiful her new home was and how she would live
happily ever after with husband Gem right here on this fabulous Seamount. Gem
grinned all over his handsome face, bowed to the workers, bowed to everyone present
and picking up Merry in his strong arms, swam with her over the threshold and into
the new castle. Everyone cheered again and mothers called to their children to come
on home and leave the young couple alone.
When Gem swam into the bridal chamber he
gave Merry a hug and a kiss and set her down
to see how she liked it. Every young girl dreams
of such a chamber and Merry was no exception.
The white and blush-pink blossoms of Soft
Corals filled every space, making the room a
fairyland where dreams come true. Someone
i.. i i .. 1.I i I,,, i, hampagne bubbles
.... . .... -rri;n close by and
S i .... .. I .. i . 1 i and ready for
the newlyweds to toast their first night in their
new home.
The next morning Merry was awake with the
first sunbeams that filtered down through the
clear indigo sea and she hugged and kissed
Gem until he opened his eyes and then she
leapt out of bed. "I want to see the rest of my
home at once!" And Merry swam off with Gem
rubbing his eyes and swimming slowly after
*ssell her. Everything pleased Merry and she couldn't
believe that she had really found the enchanted
castle of her dreams.
But you know, even the happiest Mermaid
and Merman have to find something to do all
day besides looking at each
other, and so it wasn't long
Pillar Corals sat like towers on before Mermaid Merry decide
ed that she would open a
the rooftop, their fuzzy polyps school for all the young chil
dren on the Seamount. Gem
glowing a soft gold thought this was a great
idea and decided that he
would open a swimming
school for teenagers. So it was that in no time at all, the little fish and sea creatures
who had bothered their mothers all day long because they had nothing to do, were
clustered about Mermaid Merry on a sheltered ledge in front of the castle learning to
read and write and do simple arithmetic. Adventurous teenagers were likewise happy
to have something exciting to do with Gem who took them on long swims all about
the Seamount showing them how to approach the large fish that swam out of the
dark deeps and how to avoid danger.
Mermaid Merry and Gem had many adventures of their own in their first year of
living on the Seamount, but I'll tell you about them another day. In the meantime,
whenever you swim on a shallow reef, remember: Look -don't touch.
THE END.


Note: All the fish, sea creatures, corals and sea plants with capital letters are identi
fled by Paul Humann in his Caribbean Reef identification books, available from
Amazon.com.


M* iROD @ SPNOREiYPTT TICN RSOR


DOLLY'S DEEP SECRETS
by Elaine Ollivierre


The new species of giant lobster found in the Indian Ocean is a type of spiny lob
ster. Do you know the difference between a spiny lobster and other lobsters?
The most visible difference between the Caribbean spiny lobster and the
American (Maine or North Atlantic) lobster is that the American lobster has
claws and the spiny lobster does not. There are about 30 types of clawed lob
sters around the world, of different shapes and sizes. The American lobster has
two large claws. One claw has saw teeth and is used for crushing shells: the
other has finer teeth for ripping into the soft flesh of its prey. The spiny lobster
has no claws: instead, it has two long, stiff antennae which it uses like whips
against predators.
Spiny lobsters make a strange noise with their bodies. There is a soft section of
their antennae which they rub over the bony plates under their eyes, almost like
playing a violin. It seems most likely that the noise they produce in this way is
used to warn off predators, rather than to communicate with each other.
Another difference is in the choice of habitat. American lobsters are solitary and
aggressive and prefer to live alone. Large male lobsters will chase away smaller
neighbours. Spiny lobsters are gregarious. They live in groups in crevices under
rocks and reefs where they can pull their whole bodies inside for protection.


One strange activity that spiny lobsters take part in is mass migration. Both
spiny and American lobsters do wander at nights in search of prey, returning to
I- i ...... . i y. But, sometimes, spiny i .......
1 ,. i i .... i .. f as m any as 60 lobsters a .. i i ,, i ,, ...
This may happen when a storm is approaching but it may also be to reach new
breeding grounds, or to find warmer water, or to find food: no one is quite sure.
Of course, Caribbean and American lobsters have characteristics in common,
too. They are similar in colour and eat the same kind of things like small fish and
crabs. All lobsters reproduce by laying eggs, which hatch into tiny planktonic
larval forms. The lobsters all have hard shells which they shed as they grow. And,
of course, they make great gourmet dishes for restaurants!

Word Puzzle
Unscramble the words taken from the passage and write in the spaces provide
ed. Find the special word written vertically.


1. SCORK
2. SCAWL
3. CRIMEANA
4. OTRYSAIL
5. BRESTOL


6. BATHITA
7. SECRIVEC
8. ATOMIRING
9. NEATANNE


Answers on page 41


I. ---------------- ---------------- m


Ke
















PROTOGRArPIor



CARRACOVI SLOOtrPS

A stunning two-book set has arrived. Published by the author's company, Indian
Creek Books, Antigua-based photographer Alexis Andrews devotes the first book to
the age-old traditions of the building of the Grenadine island of Carriacou's working
sloops, which he calls a "Tribute to their "-. 'i-i;=-; Ways". In the second, he cata
logues the year-and-a-half build of his owr, I* i i arriacou sloop, Genesis, on the
beach at Windward, Carriacou.
Volume I: Vanishing Ways Sailing on the last Carriacou Sloops
From his first visit to Windward in Carriacou while researching for his PhD in
social anthropology, to the present day, Alexis give- ...... 1.1 .to the history of the
island and its people, tells of their ways and values, 1. . I I.-1.. and their seafaring,
their trading and the deep-rooted traditions of their boatbuilding. It is the photogra
phy -indeed, what Alexis is renowned for -that captures the texture of this island.
Images that show every deep wrinkle of the men who sail these boats, the tight lan
yard knotted under the old man's leathery chin, holding down an ancient hat, with
a steady hand on the sawn off tiller.
Vanishing terms such as caulking irons, boom jaws, adze and deadeyes appear,
along with the vessels' romantic names, such as Pipe Dream, Brilliant Girl, Imagine
and, of course, Genesis.
Alexis tells stories of boatbuilders such as Hope McLawrence, who bought his first
boat when he was almost nine years old, paying around ten dollars for her, and with
sails made from sewn-together flour bags, sailed up to the Tobago Cays for a few
days' fishing.


He captures the spirit of the Carriacou Regatta for us, the irrelevant start times for
the races, the blowing of a conch bringing the crew to their newly painted vessels,
the captain's shout "le' we go..." that marks the real start of the race.
This book will take you to Carriacou.
Volume II: Genesis Building a Traditional Carriacou Sloop
The story of the creation of Alexis' 40-foot Carriacou sloop, from the felling of the
first West Indian White Cedar at the right phase of the moon, through the patience
and sheer hard work required to complete this enormous task.
Wonderful stories are told of the setting-up ceremony with sacrificial blood, rum,
and the old people "mumbling important words".
Turning these pages filled with striking photographs, you begin to know the char
acters nearly as well as if you'd met them and worked with them on this dream.
Expressions are caught and stories recounted in a blow by blow account of the
=t-:i.)iini build, including '' I "',. reports of finding a termite nest in the damp
the bilge and a '' threatening hurricanes passing through the
Grenadines during the boats construction.
More traditions at the launch ceremony with more blood and rum smeared onto
important parts of the boat, prayers and blessings, liquor libations for the vessel and
plenty of Jack Iron, too, for the creators and builders of Genesis.
It is like a birth. And the stories and the images will make you laugh; they will
amaze you and they will move you almost to tears.
A fascinating note on the photography: Alexis' favourite camera -very appropri
ately -is his vintage Hasselblad, which has no electronic parts. He uses film that
has a timeless quality, including a rare black-and-white transparency film called
Scala. It seems then, that these ways have not vanished.
Carriacou Sloops by Alexis Andrews is available in select island bookshops from the
end of June and online at www.IndianCreekBooks.com


.i* -!! The Twelve Books



Colombian smugglers, Bolivian
voodoo warlocks, and a corrupt
U.S.A. government official race to
kill an undercover cop and his wife,
who found evidence that will ruin
the smugglers' plan to dominate the
American drug trade.








.... ........ A 3 . ..


I Guides that just
keep getting

Better

1BARiADO -OUVANAj


Buy the

latest and

get the best!

www.doyleguides.com


Dear Crr'--,
Congratulations on
.',. -'-.r, which goes
strength to
strength!

Peter Ash'.'
Canada


Join our growing list of on-line subscribers!
12 issues US$29.95, 24 issues US$53.95
Same price, same content
immediate delivery!


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.~ Find us right in the town of Hillsborough!



V' Pg Daily dives at 9.30 am and 1.30 pm or individually
Air-Fills at PADI 5 Standard
S* Scuba and Snorkel Gear Rental
S / PADI Courses from Beginner to Instructor
& 15 Specialties in English & Deutsch
Rendezvous Service for Sailors at Hillsborough,
Sandy Island & Tyrrel-Bay
Special Group Prices for Sailors





ooe5s Rou-nfd House Restaurant, Bar & Coatag

$ta A A .',4 ld s *_.':ft f*: $:r .., a& '.z.5 d Ze.'r jLL -*

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gy ..? : 405-3723








B & C FUELS
ENTERPRISE .
Welcomes you to
Petite Martinique
A stepping stone as you
cruise through St. Vincent, Grenada and the Grenadines.
Come alongside our splendid jetty and replenish your
supplies of FUEL, OIL, WATER and ICE
at the cheapest prices in the Grenadines.

Call sign: "Golf Sierra" VHF channel 16
For further information call Glenn Clement or
Reynold Belmar. Tel/Fax: (473) 443-9110


* New environrirtaolly friri.j;ly houlou'
* 50-ton hoist, 18ft beam, 8ft draft
* Water
* Do it yourself or labour available
* Mini Marina
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VHF: 16
tbyh@usa.net
Tel/Fax: 473.443.8175


A Forgotten

Minor Masterpiece

of the Antilles
The Violins of SaintJacques, by Patrick Leigh Fermor. Oxford, 1985, Trade paper
back (Twentieth Century Classics).
Patricl. i .1. V .... Ir, the English writer
born in : I in- a I qe. today in Greece, made
siit in ...i. n I. West Indies in 1946 that
] .... I ......- I in The Travellers' Tree
(1950), as fine a travel book as has ever been
written. (See Caribbean Compass, December
2001 and January 2002.) But it seems there
was another thing for him to do, in the wake
S. of that extraordinary Antillean sojourn.
iIt seems there was one place that defied his
investigative sensibility. Maybe the place
wasn't really there or, if it was, maybe it was
not as he had been led through his reading to
imagine. Maybe it was a ruined shell of what
had been, and not only that but a ruin built
s... over and all but forgotten, evident only in a
random staircase to nowhere. Maybe its name
was St. Pierre, "the Paris of the West Indies,"
a before Mt. Pelee erupted in 1902 and obliter
ated it, and maybe Leigh Fermor just couldn't
f-, get it, and its surprising Creole culture, out of
his mind.
What to do? Three years after the publication
of The Travellers' Tree, Fermor published The
Violins of SaintJacques, a little known novel
slight in size and considered slight by many critics, though still in print. It is the only
novel Leigh Fermor has published; in later years he published other travel books,
including A Time of Gfts (1977), for which he is now chiefly known.
A satirical historical novel, The Violins of SaintJacques takes place on Shrove
Tuesday, the day before Lent begins, in 1902, on the imaginary French island of
Saint Jacques des Aliss. Saint-Jacques, which lies according to the endpaper chart
southeast of Guadeloupe and northwest of Dominica, has a population of 42,000
souls, a principal port, Plessis, and a planter squirearchy. The principal family is
headed by the Count deoS I, ,. ., ,. i iSi ,, i it ., a ei .. T ,
Scarcely affectedbythe i ... I I -, ,. 1 ...II. ... I,,I I,, II I t
anachronistic utopia, presided over by the paternalistic, royalist Count, a Renaissance
man of great good will and appetite. While some of the characters have enough depth
for change, all, including the Count, are caricatures. Leigh Fermor, a Francophile,
was out to recreate a lost society but not without having :- 1 1 .1 f fun.
Into the garden, however, slithers the snake, literally ., I. i, ,, .' I On the day
of the tale, while Carnival is happening in Plessis, a grand ball takes place In the
course of it, not only is after de lance released by the Counts ---iand-=t in from a
basket to the horror of the guests, but the Creole squirearchy ,I, MI- d metro
politan administration and a duel to resolve their differences is arranged between a
planter and the governor; the oldest male child of the Count threatens suicide; a
daughter runs off (wouldn't you know?) with the governor's son; and masked lepers
are discovered dancing with everyone!
It dawns on one gradually that the i.,l .... y of Saint-Jacques is not only
ripe for satire but a Creole variety I ,. I I decadence. All the while le
Salpetriere, the volcano, grows hotter and more active, until it finally erupts. The
island breaks up and sinks like Atlantis, taking with it the entire population.
Like Saint Pierre, Saint-Jacques had one survivor, and it is through this survivor
that we get the tale. Recently returned from the West Indies, the narrator is in
Greece, in a village on the southwest corner of Lesbos, ov- 1 1 -i :. .1, when
he happens to meet a charming septuagenarian artist '".. I. 111 .... nrig the
olive groves. Berthe de Rennes shows her guest to a room for a nap to escape the
mid day heat, and in the room he - i ....' ,. of a fabulous island in the Antilles.
It is from this point that the tale .,- I ....I I I Mademoiselle de Rennes proves to
have been a poor distant relative I al. ..... ho, at age 18, in 1896, went out to
the island to serve as governess to his five children. In the course of two weeks of
evening conversations over ouzo while the narrator waits for a ferry, she tells her
incredible story, not without the visual aids of commonplace books and albums of
sketches and paintings she had made and sent back to an aunt in France. The nar
native shifts with consummate skill from past to past-present tense, from the narra
tor summarizing to Mademoiselle de Rennes actively recalling.
The writing style, which is entirely typical of Leigh Fermor, is not for everyone. It
is a Baroque style that reflects a cultivated, ..n-1 i it 1 -r..n;; -=pecially in the nar
rator's voice. It is at its most extreme in t ....i I I i I .1 and its costumed
dancers; it is at its finest in the description of the volcano's eruption, which, not
incidentally, is told directly by the former governess. Compass readers will appreciate
the position of the Carriacou schooner anchored in the offing, aboard which
Mademoiselle de Rennes finds herself as ash falls like snow and the volcano goes
through its pyrotechnic phases. The novel's end comes in two surprising, lovely
parts, at once comic and sentimental.
While Saint-Jacques suggests the place of islands in literature, real and imagined,
that topic is beyond the scope of this review. Still, it is most interesting to recall
another Englishman's novel of the time featuring an imaginary Antillean island
Alex -..., .. i .. i. -,. 1 -,-). Santa Marta, a British colony somewhere in
the :, i '' ,, I ... I ...I I.. St. Lucia, is also a volcanic island; but where
as the volcano on Saint-Jacques is geological, the one on Santa Marta is metaphor
cal the explosion about to happen is social and political, reflecting the British
colonies as they were when they were granted statehood status as a first step
towards independence and, it was hoped, stability. Waugh was a journalist and nov
elist, Leigh Fermor a journalist and, truly, a poet. For le Salpetriere, his volcano,
proves also a metaphor but on a far grander scale.
You will not be disappointed to learn what this is at the story's end, as the
tradewind fills the schooner's sails and violins playing at the ball fill the wind with
eerie sound a sound that you, perhaps, sailing in the area, have heard?
This book is available from Amazon.com.












10TH EDITION OF DOYLE'S
LEEWARDS GUIDE
Cruising Guide to the Leeward Islands, 2008-2009: A Complete Guide for
Yachtsmen, Divers and Watersports Enthusiasts, by Chris Doyle. 2007
Cruising Guide Publications and Chris Doyle. Soft cover, spiral bound, 6" x 9", 529
pages, color photos and sketch charts throughout. ISBN 0-944428-80-0. US$34.95.
Cruising Guide Publications was created by Simon and Nancy Scott while living
aboard their sailboat in the British Virgin Islands, and later, working in the bare
boat charter industry for 20 years. They saw a need for comprehensive guides to
aid cruisers and charterers exploring the Caribbean island chain. These guides
i, i.. I .. I, i .... .. .1.. .I .1.. .. butalso the rich historyof the Caribbean
Si -i i I i I I. ... i i ..... well as where to go for diving, snorkeling
and shoreside entertainment and, of course, what to do in an emergency.
Simon and Nancy say, "We have made it our mission to answer all the questions
we had from charterers and cruisers and to add details and background about the
islands to enhance the cruising experience.
"Twenty years ago, we teamed up with Chris Doyle, the popular -T-;=;n: author
of the Sailors Guide to the Windward Islands, Cruising Guide I. reward
Islands, Cruising Guide to Trinidad, Tobago and Barbados, and the Cruising Guide
to Venezuela and Bonaire.
"Since then we allied ourselves with other cruising guide authors. Our rigorous
guidelines require the authors to spend a considerable amount of time on location
---n ;;; .-1 T-- -ecking details so that our readers have a safe, informed and
Ii I .1 II I cruise. Our authors have a dedication to details, and a love of
sailing the islands they research.


"Our guides are updated approximately every other year to make sure cruisers
are armed with up-to-date i, ,, i i
This tenth edition of the ..... .... i. .. I i covers the islands
from Anguilla to Dominica, a group of both well-known and seldom-visited islands
.. i.. -i i ...... I Maarten, Saba, Sint Eustatius (Statia), St. Christopher
I.'11-1 I I I L, Montserrat, Antigua, Barbuda, Guadeloupe, Marie
Galante, Les Iles des Saintes (The Saintes) and Dominica. It is an essential tool for
cruisers sailing this region.
Chris spends months sailing these islands aboard his Trinidad-built catamaran,
TiKanot, and exploring ashore, to update each and every edition. As well as being
an active sailor, Chris loves to dive. He is often seen hiking or riding his bicycle
around the countryside. He enjoys both eating at local restaurants an --l-1;
with fresh island ingredients aboard (especially if he caught the fish : I.....- i
Ph.D. in Psychology, he is also a keen photographer, and his original images add
a lot to the quality of his books. His love of the Eastern Caribbean islands, and his
long familiarity with them (he sailed across from his native England in the 1960s),
shows on every page.
The newest edition of the Cruising Guide to the Leeward Islands includes over a
hundred up-to-date color sketch charts, full-color aerial photos of most anchor
ages, scenic island photos, and detailed shoreside information covering services,
restaurants, provisioning, travel basics and island history. Information is linked
to Chris's webs it --- 1 -. -.1 where you can download the GPS way
points given in I I I. I, i. I .... essential updates, print town maps, and
obtain links to local weather, news and businesses.
Available at bookstores and chandleries or from www.cruisingguides.com.


WALLILABOU PORT OF ENTRY
ANCHORAGE MOORINGFACILITIES

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VHF Ch 16 & 68
(range limited by the hills) BAR AND RESTAURANT
TOURS ARRANGED
P.O. Box 851, St. Vincent & the Grenadines, CREDIT CARDS ACCEPTED
West Indies.
Tel: (784) 458-7270 Fax: (784) 457 9917 HAPPY HOUR 5-6
E mail: wallanch@caribsurf.com




GRENADINES

SAILS & CANVAS

BEQUIA
Come in and see us for all your SAILS & CANVAS needs
including CUSTOM-MADE stainless steel
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Located opposite G.Y.E.
(northern side of Admiralty Bay) REPRESENTATIVE
Tel (784) 457-3507 / 457-3527 (evenings)
e-mail: gsails@vincysurf.com VHF Ch16/68


Bequia Marina

Open Monday to Saturday 8:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m.
Look for the Big Blue Building and ask for Stan or Miguel!
Water, Diesel, Ice, Bottled Water and Dockage available.

The Yacht Club, Bequia Marina, Port Elizabeth, Bequia,
St. Vincent & The Grenadines
VHF 68, Telephone 784-457-3361




DOLLY'S ANSWERS





Special word: CARIBBEANC
4 S O L I T A R Y




*Special word: CARIBBEAN











r all started with the barbecue, or more
SI accurately, the lack of one. Just about all
the other boats in the anchorage had one,
I but we didn't. Tantalised by the smoky
aromas and happy chortling that drifted across the
anchorage I wanted one -Mary didn't, conscious of all
those little carcinogens lurking in the charred meat,
intent on doing bad things to us. Ergo -no barbie.
Now I'm not much of a cook, which isn't good news for
Mary, as she ends up enslaved to the gas cooker below.
There's nothing chauvinistic about me, you under
stand. But I do catch fish, and in a thoughtless moment
said that, of course, if we had a barbie I would cook the
fish on it. Before I could retract this casual remark, I
was whisked off to the chandlery by a suddenly enthu
siastic Mary, later emerging $200 poorer and clutching
a Magma barbecue and a large bag of charcoal.
As we sailed out of Admiralty Bay, Bequia, on pas
sage for Union Island, my thoughts were already on
the fresh dorado steaks that would undoubtedly be
sizzling on the barbie that '" nin. But the waters of
the Caribbean are clear i.- ... see for miles. The
appearance of the shiny new barbecue on Alacazam's
quarter-rail had them nodding wisely to each other,
and "i--in "n~r spread of trolling lures a wide berth. If
fi. i. i 1 I could guess what two of them would
be doing. Mary said I was doing it on purpose, just to
avoid cooking. They can be so cruel, women.
On dropping the hook in Chatham Bay I was heart
ened to see loads of fishy activity on the surface. Just
as soon as we had Alacazam safely anchored, I was off
in the dinghy with a light spinning rod. With tuna
S.'. inic amongst the baitfish wherever I looked,
"I I ,, was high. Mistakenly, as it turned out. My
floating lure (a Yo-Zuri Hydro Popper), usually depend
able in such situations, was totally ignored. Rumours
of the recent purchase had spread far it seemed.
Now we ..... . . .. never give up, so arriving
back at Ak .... -1.1 - and ready to fend off sarky
comments, I thought it might be worth trying a spot of
jigging (no, not that) from the cockpit.
Jigging involves raising and lowering a specially
designed lure close to the seabed. The trick is to lower
the lure to the bottom, wind in a turn on the reel, lift
the rod tip fairly smartly, then lower it, allowing the lure
to flutter back down again. Continue this process until
,, the lure or your arm drops off. To :i tl-
I:,, ,, i nce whatsoever I attached a string I -... 11
Hokki shrimps above the jig, a Williamson -- Ti -
this case. It worked. Within a few minutes I i. I I .-
not huge by any standards. Well, quite small really
-a threadfin herring, every bit of six inches long.
Holding it triumphantly aloft, expectant of praise and
adulation, Her Below pointed out that I would need to
be careful which way I placed it on the grill or it would
fall throat .i. i, I,,. ... I i1, themselves, can they?
And so i-. -1 11.i 1 I. 1.111 fellow who was des
tined to play such an important role in future events.
In the failing light, the prospect of a sundowner took
precedence over any further incursion in the threadfin
herring population, so the hapless victim was reduced
to two fillets and consigned to the fridge.
A couple of days later, now anchored off Frigate
Island at the southeast tip of Union, I was enjoying a
spot of early morning fishing before we weighed anchor
to sail on to Carriacou. I'd sliced one of the fillets in two
and was freelining it in the current -... 1. i.. -i .-
ning rod. There had been no tal .... I. ..I1 v


minutes, and fancying a brew, I put the rod in the
holder, slackened the drag right off and went below to
put the kettle on. Back in the cockpit, sipping the
steaming cuppa, I lifted the rod gently to add some life
to the bait. Damn! Caught on the seabed. My fault for
1 -'in th r 1-- attended. I tightened the clutch on
1 i i i i and was trying to pull it free, when
the "sea bed" started to move off, and there was noth
ing I could do with the light rod and 15-pound line to



A Little


Herring


Goes a


Long Way

by Dick I! I.,-.


Gotcha! -

dissuade it from doing so -I had to give line or a break
was unavoidable. Soon whatever it was, was on its way
to Carriacou ahead of schedule. But after about 20
minutes or so of recovering line, then having to give it
back, I felt I was beginning to win the struggle.
Later, now close to the boat, the fish really started to
enjoy himself. He discovered that by swimming around
in circles under the stern he could hook the line around
the dinghy's outboard. By swimming between the din
ghy and Alacazam he could involve the painter, and
with a little luck the self-steering gear too. Changing
from port to starboard meant that the backstay, the
dan-buoy and the gantry could get involved, and a
surge ahead had meci ....i .. i i i .. 1. .. .... I
the outside of the bi ....... - I .... i
selves on the same side of the boat he'd decide he'd
rather be back where he was, so the entire toe-stub
bing, arm-wrenching procedure could be repeated.
Huge fun. Oh how we laughed! But now I could see
what it was -a large sting ray, about five feet (1.5m)
fi ... .. .1. to wingtip. Probably a tad too much
".... the barbie, Mary said. With the Steve
Irwin tragedy in mind, neither of us was keen to get too


close to this impressive creature, so when we had it
alongside the boat Mary cut the line as close to the fish
as she dared. It swam away, none the worse for its exer
tions, with our apologies ringing in its, er, ears.
After explaining ourselves to our neighbours, Murray
and Nadine on Squiz!, who had enjoyed the curious
antics on Alacazam ("it was worth getting up early for",
they said), we set sail for Carriacou, with the barbie
now hidden under a blue canvas cover. I put two troll


ing rods out, the windward one a 50-pound outfit
rigged with a deep-diving Rapala XRap Magnum lure
and the leeward one a 30-pound outfit : .. 1 with a
trolling feather topped off with the other. I. .11 of the
herring fillet. Not being in any great rush, we were sail
ing under a reefed main and yankee only, which gave
us around five knots.
Just four miles out, the reel on the leeward rod
began to sing, with line pouring off it lickety split. I
struck hard to set the hook and tightened the drag as
much as I dared, then returned the rod to its holder.
This was a good fish and was still taking line; my inter
vention hadn't discoul .. I ., I, i -i .,i
I gave clear, concise :..- .. i, 1 ,, 11 h .
dsaildisconnecttheselfsteeringtakethehelmwhere'stheb
loodygaff' while I started to get the other lure in. Then
the reel stopped singing and the rod straightened up, a
clear sign that all was not going to plan. The 50-pound
mono leader had been bitten through. I re-deployed the
windward outfit and brought in the leeward one. It was
while I was re-rigging it that the 50-pound outfit start
ed to sing. Its hard work, this fishing.
Continued on next page


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Continuedfrom previous page
This time my opponent was outgunned and I'd soon
netted my catch -a Spanish mackerel. From a culi
nary point of view, these rate right up there with
dorado and wahoo in my view, and perfect for the
christening of the barbie.


fillet. Brown boobies, always a welcome attraction for
this skipper, were much in evidence. The presence of
these diving birds usually means there are fish
around, so I was ready for it to happen. But it didn't,
until I wasn't.
We had passed inside Sisters Rocks, and had turned
east to enter the anchorage. I was
at the mast dropping the main, and
Mary was helming and tidying away
. -- the sheets and other assorted
string. My next job would have been
to bring the trolling gear in. By the
time I got back to the rod the fish
must have been 300 yards or so
astern, and trucking. I set the hook
and hung on. In the distance a
long, lean fish leaped high into the


II ''' .'''I !' I
I~ ~~ I~~ ~ r ~ I''

ii ; I~ I I I rI'''


We .. 1. I ... ii.11 ...1. I r and met up again
with c... I.-1. I. .. I ... md Ylva on Lena
Great company, with or without barbecued Spanish
mackerel, which we all ---1 i-Dvided a very tasty
dinner. Next morning I II I Tyrell Bay anchor
age, just around the headland. Hardly far enough to
raise the sails, so we put in a leg out to sea, to make
sail of it. And of course I still had that herring fillet in
the fridge. I set up the 30-pound outfit with a blue and
white tuna feather, adorned with the whole herring


air. A wahoo? King mackerel? Neither unfortunately. It
turned out to be a barracuda, and a big one. Mary had
two I I i. I ) keep the fish astern, and Alacazam
off 'I. 1n *' border th *.-h-Tr:- and the shoal
that's in the middle of it. I.-1. doing little to
help, which I thought was pretty unsporting of it, but
my instructions were again clear and concise. She
doesn't know how lucky she is. With our main half-
down and our slalom-like approach to the anchorage,
Alacazam was again providing huge entertainment to


anyone who cared to watch. Sometimes I wish we
hadn't painted her bright yellow. Blue with white
fle 1 .... 1 ,1 i ,
. I i ..'' I .. i I I ., aboard. Jonas and
Ylva were there to welcome us in, having been among
our audience. "What on earth was all that about?" Jonas
said, and something else in Swedish when he spotted
the barracuda taking up most of the cockpit sole.
It's not a fish you'd want to make a pet of, the bar
racuda. Distinctly uncuddly. Not so much a piscatorial
spaniel, more a: 11 .1i .11i.. cross -and this
one looked very c. - -... I I k Iron rum poured
I" ii ... i' .'.ii- had killed it quickly and humane
I I ', ,, ,1 1 *rry out any malicious intent.
But what to do with five feet of dead barracuda?
Many cruisers won't eat them, especially large ones,
owing to the risk of ciguatera poisoning. Ciguatera is a


.,.,J. p -'__. '. -. ,.-

p-m


toxin found in many reef fish and predators that feed
on reef fish. It collects in the fish's liver, so an old,
large fish is more likely to have accumulated a -1:
ous amount of it than a small, young one. I
unlucky .... 1to eat a fish that has it, then you
could be ,, I very torrid time. I . .' i11 accept
ed that its only present in the : I "I I-i.' popular
tions of the northern part of the Caribbean chain.
South of Guadeloupe incidences of ciguatera poison
ing are very rare indeed. But a fish the size of this
barracuda may have travelled far, and could just be
down south on holiday. The good people of Carriacou
11. .. .. having eaten it for years, are made of sterner
1..11 quick call on the VHF, picked up ashore by a
taxi driver, soon had a grateful islander, Sharwin,
alongside to collect the fish.
But what of our little hero, the thr -Ilfi;; b-.-
who although having failed to provide ,I .. 1.. I , I
barbie, went a long way towards it in tempting three
good fish -one we cut away, one that :-t .-y and
one we away. Well, according to i ..... indi
rectly I I 40 people. Nobody died.


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Call to schedule appointments


Tel: 868-628-6314



























































owr t speClai/

UNION ISLAND. SAINT VINCENT THE GRENADINES
VHF 08 TEL-FAX (784) 458 8918 capgourml@ carilburf corn


Stock Up
on the widest selection and the

best pnces in Grenada at our two
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Whether its canned goods, dairy
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or fruits, toiletries, household goods,
or a fine selection of liquor and wine,

The Food Fair has it all and a lot more

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The Carenage:
Monday Thursday
8 am to 5:30 pm
Friday until 8:45 pm
Saturday until
1:00 pm
Tel: (473) 440-2588
Grand Anse:
Monday Thursday
9 am to 5:30 pm
Friday & Saturday
until 7:00 pm
Tel: (473) 444-4573


CARRIACOU REAL ESTATE

Land and houses for sale
For full details see our website:
www.islandvillas.com
or contact Carolyn Alexander at
Down Island Ltd
e-mail: islander@caribsurf.com
Tel: (473) 443 8182 Fax: (473) 443 8290


We also handle Villa Rentals &
Property Management on Carriacou


There are three basic types of limes with various
names. The West Indian, Key, or Mexican Lime has
many seeds and is smaller than the big seedless Tahiti
(or "Persian") variety. The Tahitian may be . .
hybrid that arrived in California around --' .11.
other fruit imported from Tahiti. There is also a
Southeast Asian variety called the Kaffir lime, which is
similar to the West Indies' rough-skinned lemon.
"Kaffir" is a strange name because in Arabic it means
unbeliever. Brazil and Mexico lead the world's lime
production with a combined 1.2 million metric tons.
Ancients used the lime for medicinal purposes.
Fragrant limes were used during the Middle Ages to
keep moths away from hanging clothes, just as moth
balls do today. Sailors loved the lime, since it pre
vented the weakening disease of scurvy. British sailors
became known as limeyss". The islands' concept of
"limin"', or hanging out, is derived from the relatively
easy job of lime picking, which always included resting
and storytelling under the lime tree.
Cold-pressed lime oil smells sweet and blends well
with citronella, lavender or rosemary. Beyond a scent,
it is used to increase blood circulation, treat arthritis,
reduce high blood pressure, and t i..1. i i .nd flu.
It can reduce acne, and take the .... i. ... i. stings
of insects. Citrate of lime and citric acid are also
derived from this fruit.
r,,- .- 1h .. .1- 20 calories with abso
i i ii -,. i DI -. 31. One lime contains a
I i i i i ...... ..' i Vitamin C as a scorbic
acid. Limes also have some fiber and potassium.
Don't buy limes that have been picked too --:
they will have no juice. Limes keep fairly well .... ...
rated in a cool, dry place. Even when the peel
becomes dry and hard, the inside will be juicy. Lime
juice can be frozen in ice cube trays for handy use.
West Indians use lime in pepper sauce and chut
neys. Throughout the Caribbean and Central and
South America lime juice is used in marinades, salad
vinaigrettes, fish dishes, cocktails, and ceviche. In
ceviche-style cooking, lime juice is mixed with other
ingredients such as chopped hot and sweet peppers,
tomatoes, chadon bene and onions. The lime juice not
only flavors fish or seafood, its acid actually cooks the
flesh firm and opaque.


I love the smell of a freshly cut squeezed lime
and the thirst-quenching taste of tart limeade.
I got used to the big seedless limes in Florida,
but here in the Caribbean I'm content squeez
ing one of the small local limes to "wash" my
chicken and fish, or add to my sundown cocktail.
Like most other citrus fruits, the juicy lime origi
nated in Southern Asia. Thousands of years later it
has evolved and traveled to all tropical parts of the
1 1Arab traders carried the lime from India to the
I i East where the 12th century Crusaders found
it and introduced it to the Mediterranean. Columbus
supposedly planted the first lime seeds in Hispaniola.
Spanish explorers sailed the lime to Florida where it
became the "Key Lime".





The 5w gt


and Tart


Lime


Ceviche Shrimp
1 pound large shrimp
1 large ripe tomato, chopped
1 medium sweet onion, chopped
1 bunch chadon bene, chopped fine
1 hot pepper, minced
Juice of four limes
1/2 Cup fresh orange juice
Salt and spice to taste
2 limes, thinly sliced
Bring a two-quart pot of water to a boil. Remove from
heat and add shrimp. Let rest for only one and a half
minutes then remove shrimp from water, drain and
place in a glass bowl.
Add all chopped vegetables, the minced hot pepper,
lime juice and orange juice, - -n.r,- .nd lime slices
to the shrimp. Cover and : i',. i I at least four
hours. Serve with biscuits or warm baked garlic bread.
Grilled Lime Chicken
3 Tablespoons canola oil
Juice of three limes
1 medium onion, minced
6 garlic cloves, minced
1/2 hot pepper, minced (optional)
1 leaf chadon bene, chopped fine
Salt and spices to taste
4 large chicken breasts
In a bowl, mix together all ingredients except chick
en. Add the chicken, turning to coat. Let marinate in
tl, fi-i 1- for four hours. Grill the chicken over hot
i i 15 minutes or until done, basting frequently
with the marinade.
Lime Biscuits
1/2 pound (2 Cups) baker's flour
1 Tablespoon baking powder
1/2 Tablespoon salt
4 ounces butter
1/4 Cup brown sugar
1 egg plus one egg yolk
3 Tablespoons lime juice
2 Tablespoons grated lime peel
In a suitable bowl combine flour, baking powder
and salt.
In another bowl, cream butter with sugar. Add the
egg and yolk, lime juice and grated lime peel. Mix
well.
Add flour mixture with the butter mixture, combine
ing into a soft dough. Form the dough into half-inch
balls and place on cookie sheets. Bake at 180C
(350 F) for 12 to 15 minutes, until golden brown.
Sprinkle with extra sugar if a sweeter taste is desired.
Lime Balls
2 Cups grated green papaya
1 Cup brown sugar
1/2 Cup water
Juice of three limes
Grated peel of one lime
Boil grated papaya in sufficient water to cover; cool
and strain. Press papaya to remove all excess liquid.
Place sugar and the half-cup of water in a saucepan
and bring to a boil. Stir until it thickens. Add grated
papaya, lime juice and grated lime peel. Boil for two
minutes, -1....... constantly.
Remove I' ... heat and cool slightly before rolling
spoonfuls into balls. Allow to dry on waxed paper.
For the Farmer
A perfect addition to any yard is a grafted or budded
lime tree that bears in three to four years. Thorny,
wild, West Indian lime trees grown from seeds may
reach 20 feet and take at least six years to bear.
Lime trees need good, well-drained soil and full sun.
When planting, .1 . .ii.... half the soil in the
hole. Pile the .. I 1..1 i i. soil higher than
ground level to prevent puddles that will cause root
rot. About two feet outside the high soil at the tree's
trunk, create a three-inch high dam or water ring. This
will hold water for the fine outer roots during the dry
season.
Water every few days for the first month, then week
ly for the next four months if it is the dry season. Pull
or gently hoe all weeds and lawn grass from inside the
water ring so the young tree doesn't have to compete
for water. Do not use herbicide.
To prevent damage by a "bushwhacker" or string
mower, wrap the trunk in aluminum foil or make a
- ;. 1- cutting the top and bottom out of a plastic
I- 11 .I bottle and making a slit down one side to
slip it over the trunk.
After three months, the recommended fertilizer is a
cup of urea sprinkled every three months. Alternate
between urea and 12-12 17-2 every two months after
the tree starts to blossom.
Limes are sturdy trees that have few natural enemies
like the leafminer, so little chemical spraying is neces
sary. Fruit that ripens to yellow on the tree will soon
turn brown at one end.


I SRVIG T SA Y SIREY AL


9~FntI

EE

























The word "scramble" may conjure up
thoughts of a struggle or clambering on
deck when weath' dicey but it
takes on a whole I.11 .. I meaning in
the galley. The wonderful union of
lightly cooked eggs, seafood, cheese
and herbs stacked on lightly toasted
bread, English muffins or even pan
cakes is sheer elegance.
a- is an ideal time to
:. i'.. .. and family with this
delightfully easy stove-top meal. If
you have fresh lobster, crab or white
fish in the cooler, you're halfway to
heaven. Some folks will substitute
tinned salmon or tuna but it really
isn't an acceptable stand-in for freshly
cooked seafood.
Decide on the number you plan to
feed and lightly butter two English
muffin halves or bread slices for each
person. When you are really trying to
make an impression, carefully cut the
crust off the bread slices. If you have a
large diameter cookie cutter, or a small


bowl or dish slightly smaller than the
width of the bread, press it down onto
a bread slice and voia, you have a per
fectly circular bread round. (I keep the
crusts or extra bread pieces, dry them
and crush into crumbs to use for fish
or chicken coating at a later date.)
Once, when I discovered my sole loaf
of bread had gone moldy and English
muffins weren't available, I threw cau
tion to the wind and used pancakes.
Make your own rounds by simply
cooking pancakes from an unsweet
ened batter. These can be made in
advance if you wish and wrapped in
plastic to retain moistness. The batter I
prefer for these is a simple one that can
also be doubled if you want to serve
them in the traditional way with butter
and syrup.
To make scramble bases:
Pancake Mix
2 eggs
1/4 Cup oil or melted butter
1 Cup soured milk
1 1/4 Cups flour
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon salt
Beat eggs, oil and milk well. Stir in
dry ingredients just until nicely mixed
but don't over beat. Drop spoonfuls of
batter on a hot oiled griddle and turn
when bubbles appear on the surface of
the pancakes.
This will make 8 to 10 pancakes.
Keep warm while scramble is readied.


Scramble:


Easy


Yet


Elegant

by Ross Mavis
Scramble
Serves four.
2 muffins or bread rounds, sliced
or 2 pancakes per person
1 Tablespoon butter
1 Tablespoon cooking oil
4 eggs
4 Tablespoons milk
1/2 Cup cooked lobster or crab
salt and pepper to taste
1/4 Cup cheese (Cheddar or feta)
minced chives or green onions
Carefully toast the buttered muffin
halves, bread rounds or warm pan
cakes in a fry pan on the stove top.
Meanwhile, lightly beat eggs and milk
in a bowl. Leave a separation of white
and yolk as this provides a nice color
break. Over:,, 1...... 1.. 1. .1 in non
stickfrypan . 11 i I il and a
tablespoon of butter before adding the
..- If you a. i i.. more than
i ... people, y II ..".1 1 make this
scramble in batches. Stir the eggs gen
tly and scrape them as they cook into


the center of the pan. Salt and pepper
can be added at this time. Just before
the eggs are fully cooked, add the
cooked broken lobster meat, crab or
fish. Stir lightly to incorporate. Coarsely
grate cheddar cheese or crumble feta
cheese into the egg/seafood mixture.
Just as the mixture is almost com-
pletely set, but still moist, add dried
chives or chopped fresh spring onions
as a garnish.
Place a spoonful onto the prepared
muffins, bread or pancakes on serving
plates and garnish with fresh fruit or
a small side salad of mixed greens.
Pour vegetable cocktails and get ready
to receive rave reviews. How easy is
this anyway?
Vegetable Cocktail
A tin of tomato or vegetable cocktail
juice makes a super accompaniment to
a scramble. Like so many things in life,
presentation is very important.
Rim glasses by rubbing the lips with
a cut lime and inverting them gently
into a mixture of coarsely ground pep
per, garlic powder, salt and a sprinkle
of your favorite herbs. To each glass,
add a couple of ice cubes if you have
them 'I.I ... ... I I -1 1 .- ,
of H P ... . i . 1 i 11 11 .
sauce. Stir and garnish glasses with a
slice of cucumber, lemon or lime.
This truly is putting on the dog with
out any hassle.


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Unsuitable applicants .\ii nor:i b a: kri.nrwledged




Read in Next Month's Compass:

Way Over There in Panama

Cruisers Do St. Thomas Carnival

Maximizing Island Memories
... and more!
















Types of Boats

Solution


g A N 0' E L WA R. A 5
0 R U I S I N G H A l T H
US E U J F F L D OD C T U A
I A G T S R A N G A A R
S/S I S T H E AI M ` H C Y M B T
E L L E T i U G A ? R A A E
BO r G rI L H O G R N ,R
H L XHI V A 1,N C AIl U H
K A P L K 'l H I K E I N R 0
I T 1 E S H E R A V B
F R^A'D R I U M E S isu/-u C
F /S H A F L O T E f
P A (B T r L E S h I p
I/K E T C A I CT B
L F I R E A M A KCT UiT O K


Dear Compass,
Thanks for publishing in your April issue the two
letters commenting on the March 2008 Yachting
Monthly magazine article on the crimes against yachts
in Chateaubelair, St. Vincent, in November and
December 2007.
I have two comments to add. The first letter quotes
someone who lives in St. Vincent as saying, "The last
lot i', i ... 1, .. now "i ',. ..' i pris
on.. i i. * i lot ... I I m ost
recent spate of attacks in Chateaubelair. It is impor
tant to keep the details straight, and not allow vague
comments like this to imply that Chateaubelair is
again a safe anchorage.
A visiting yachtsman anchored in Bequia came up
on the Security Net on April 5th to say that, while he
had heard terrible things about "these islands", he had
found, instead, no problems except for a fierce-looking
water taxi operator in Bequia with whom he has now
made friends. That's the opposite side of the above
problem: rumors running rampant.
My second comment is more general in nature.
While the input from these two writers is valuable to
Compass readers, the more important audience is
Yachting Monthly itself and its readers. I exchanged
e-mails for some two weeks with Dick Durham, the
author of the March Yachting Monthly article and, not
only would he not name his sources nor back off on
his accusations, he added more vague charges to the
mix, regarding a number of other anchorages in both
the Windwards and the Leewards. As the one letter to
Compass indicated, the reputation of a number of
anchorages in St. Vincent and the Grenadines has
been tarred, undeservedly, with the same brush as
Chateaubelair, and those will now suffer a loss of their
S... tourists (i.e. all those who read the Yachting
S*'.I, article and take it for the truth).
When we as yachting tourists in the island chain
observe or are involved in a negative incident, the
appropriate target for our comments is the Ministry of
Tourism and/or the marine trades association of the
country in question. Letters to the Compass serve to
alert our fellow yachtsmen about potential problems or
dangers but do not notify those who have the power to
change the circumstances of the problem. Let's target
the true audience in addition to alerting each other,
the audience who can bring about the necessary
changes or the audience who promulgated the errone
ous reporting.
Melodye Pompa
S/Y Second Millennium
for the Caribbean Safety and Security Net
SSB 8104.0 at 1215 UTC
www.safetyandsecuritynet.com

We asked i i. 1 ,i editor Paul Gelderfor his
response I I it which follows.
CC

Dear Compass,
Thanks for giving us the option to reply.
After Yachting Monthly reader Steven Jones sent in
his story about the attack he and his wife, Katherine,
suffered in Chateaubelair, St Vincent, at the hands of
three robbers armed with a gun and machetes, we
checked the facts by contacting, respectively, the
Deputy Prime Minister, and the police chief of St.
Vincent. Both apologised for the attack and confirmed
other incidents. They promised to step up police
patrols and said they were planning use a decoy yacht
to try and entrap robbers.
Our reporter Dick Durham then spoke with a
local journalist on The Vincentian newspaper who
told us "pirates sneak in to some of our bays (not
just Chateaubelair) from neighboring islands". He
said there were more attacks than those logged, as
some yachtsmen don't report them through the
proper channels.
We contacted the UK Foreign Office, who told us of


other pirate attacks in the lower Caribbean. All of this
was reported in the March issue of Yachting Monthly.
Following publication of our article, we were contacted
by pilot book writer and Caribbean cruising authority,
Don Street. Don told us of other robberies and thefts
in various Caribbean locations. Some of his statistics
were over a period of several years, others were more
up to date. We filed his statements, pending further
incidents and possible further articles, but did not
publish them.
I am sorry if anyone is upset by our report, but we
have to put the safety of our readers before the inter
ests of tourism and commerce. *.., i ,,. 1, -been
balanced, as well as informed. I .- ..i wished
readers' II i --.. contrary views.
Paul Gelder EJdILr
Yachting Monthly
London, UK

Dear Compass,
We just completed a wonderful 14-month cruise of
Venezuela, Bonaire and Curacao from March 2007
until May 2008. Of course we had heard of piracy on
the seas and at '' --r,- before we sailed to
Venezuela from Trii. i i vere a little anxious at
first and only went to recommended anchorages on
our way to Puerto La Cruz. We stopped at Los Testigos,
Margarita (Porlamar), Coche, Navimca boatyard in
Cumana, T ;;;; Grande, Mochima, Chimana
Segunda, ... i ',. ii Bahia Redonda Marina. From
Testigos to Cumana we traveled with one other boat.
From Cumana to Puerto La Cruz we traveled alone. We
encountered no problems along the way.
We also traveled alone from Curacao to Puerto La Cruz
along the coast (see our article in the January 2008
Seven Seas Cruising Association Commodore's Bulletin).
Next time alone was from March 16th to April
30th, cruising the Golfo de Cariaco, Cubagua,
Coche, and Margarita.
Then we decided to head east so we could return in
45 days to allow our boat to remain in Venezuela for
another 18 months.
We left Porlamar at about 1800 hours on April 29th
i i. , i. winds which we believed were favor
Si i 1 ,. I Grenada, we found that, because of
the strong current, we could only go due north or
south. We chose south as we did not want to end up in
Cuba! We motor-sailed through the night of the 29th
keeping five miles off the coast of the Peninsula de
Paria. We decided to head for Trinidad instead of
Grenada at this time. We knew that Carupano was a
port for entering and leaving the country so we thought
it would be a good place to stop to rest. But we read in
the cruising :;ni about Puerto Santos just another
four miles I Carupano, so we decided to stop
there. "What a lovely bay," we wrote in our log. We dis
cussed stayir. I .... 1.i because it was so lovely.
After locking -... - ... I the night, we slept for a
few hours, then had dinner and returned to bed.
At 2145 we heard the loud noise of a pirogue hitting
our boat and the ...... 1 .. Men were ii... .,,
pounding on the -.1 1i I 1 V-berth ano 11 i
then on the companionway door. It went on for several
minutes. We had pepper spray and flare guns in hand.
We pictured them destroying the boat as they tried to
gain entrance. We expected that at any minute they
would break through the acrylic hatches or the com-
panionway with their machetes and/or guns and we
would be beaten (or worse) and robbed.
Then Joe fired a flare out of a salon hatch and then
another one. The men jabbered back and forth in
excited voices and then they were gone! We looked out
S I ,I, i. .l .... .. ...., ... .i. ,. side. They
,, i , i , I Ii i ,,, W ere they
;.; I 1 ... ;...- andreturn I :.: y to
i .i.. i .i i. us to see : I try
to leave i ... . .. and they could attack again?
...... the 1- : : arl1 : we
ll I I I. m anayday, :.. i on' i 1 ...... i 16.
We tried the Carupano port captain, the Guarda Costa
and the Guardia Nacional. Finally someone named
Francisco understood that banditos had attacked us.
We were informed that the Venezuelan Coast Guard
was some 15 to 20 miles away. He suggested moving
our boat to Carupano because the Venezuelan Navy is
stationed there (unbeknownst to us). He also tried
calling the port captain there, with no luck either. He
told us he would come to our aid himself if he didn't
have a posada full of guests. After about 30 minutes,
he called back and said that since we had not been
hurt or robbed, the only thing he could do was call the
National Guard and they would patrol the beach area.
We asked what good that would do if we were on the
water and they were on the land, but he said it would
provide a "presence in the area."
So, as we subconsciously already knew, we were on
our own. We switched on the foredeck light and Joe
did anchor watch until 0500, May 1st. We were quite
anxious when we left the anchorage, expecting at any
moment that the bandits would attack again as now
we were more open to being boarded. During the pas
sage we saw severe 1 i ''; : and we would wonder if
the banditos were .... I them. Needless to say, it
was a scary experience.
Continued on next page


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continued from previous page
When we arrived in Grenada on May 2nd, cruisers
kept asking "But would you return to Venezuela?" The
attack is too recent and we are still not over it. We said
we didn't know. We were asked if we would recommend
others to cruise there. We said that's up to them.
The rule of thumb in Venezuela is "lift it, lock it or
lose it" -- ; r-f-rr-i; to your dinghy. The rule of
thumb : ... 1I ...1.1 be "lock up, board up, and
have a plan ready in case of attack." We knew we
shouldn't anchor anywhere on the Peninsula de Paria,
but heck, it was our last night in a land that we had
enjoyed for over a year. We pushed our luck by one
night (and we were exhausted).
Our plan now includes: 1--l-;; th- --.ni---
when inside, turning onthe I I i h. I.I ...... .. I I
upon a boarding, blowing I .. I I. ... .. .. .......
flares from the hatch. More lethal measures would
have to be used if boarders gained entrance to our
boat. Now we understand the meaning of survival.
Anger still remains. We are now in Grenada safe and
sound, but the after-effects are nervous stomachs,
tears, relief that we were not beaten or killed, relief
that the boat is okay too. But now we are advocates of
owning a gun. Previously the idea of lethal force would
have been unthinkable. We are fortunate that we are
not hurt and our home is not damaged. But, sadly, we
now believe in Pirates of the Caribbean.
So, to answer the cruisers' two main questions:
Would we return to Venezuela? Maybe. In time we
S1.. yes. Others have, who had been attacked.
I I we recommend others to cruise there? That's
up to them. This type of activity happens everywhere in
the world. Cruising on the open water makes one per
haps more vulnerable to attack since there is no "911"
to call. Being with other boats may deter some bandits,
but not all. Boardings and robberies at Porlamar, for
instance, have occurred even when the target boat was
surrounded by numerous other boats in the anchor
age. Sometimes they only want money. We know of
another boat that was completely stripped, from elec
tronics to clothes to food to the shower-curtain rings!
We each do what we are comfortable doing. Be pre
pared for the unexpected.
Diane Dinan
Moon Goddess

Dear Readers,
Diane's letter, and Melodye's above, underline the
importance of "location, location, location." As Diane
says, she cruised extensively in Venezuela for 14
months without incident before anchoring in Puerto
Santos (where assaults on yachts were reported in
April and June, 2003, although between then and her
incident, it's been quiet).
Yes, crimes against yachts do occur, but where,
exactly? All too often we hear or read that "St. Vincent
is unsafe", "Venezuela is unsafe" or "the Caribbean is
unsafe". These sweeping statements are the cousins of
geography-challenged headlines in North American
newspapers that announce "Caribbean Devastated by
Hurricane" when only parts of one or perhaps two
islands have been affected.
Let's look at the geographical perspective. The Wider
Caribbean Region contains 28 countries and the
Caribbean Sea is some 2,000 miles wide. Saying that
this area is unsafe because there are incidents here
and there is like saying the European Union (with 27
countries, and about 1,700 miles from Norway to Italy)
is unsafe because a number of assaults on tourists
have occurred in, say, Budapest and Rome.
Similarly, Venezuela covers some 352,144 square miles
larger than Texas and Oklahoma combined Even if
you just consider Venezuela's 2,000 miles of coastline,
compare that to California's 840-mile coast. If San Diego
had a crime wave, that would be no reason to strike San
Francisco Bay off a planned cruising itinerary.
Cruisers can research the safety of prospective
Caribbean destinations by visiting www.safetyandse
curitynet.com and by talking to other cruisers, charter
base managers and locals, and then choose where not
to go. Of course, it's impossible to predict when a crime
will occur in a previously "safe" spot, but that's true
anywhere in the world. Informed sailors won't let crime
reports from specific hotspots deter them from enjoying
the rest of this vast cruising area.
CC

Dear Compass,
Astillero de Higuerote on the mainland of Venezuela
is one of the best boatyards I have been in, especially
in regard to security here in Venezuela. The yard is on
a peninsula just adjacent to the capitaneria or port
captain's office, so clearance from foreign is easy. The
port captain has authority to issue the ship clearance
zarpe, which can be extended to 18 months before the
vessel must leave the country for 45 days.
The yard is large and has five travel lifts with the
largest rated for 100 tons. It is airy and well main
trained with plenty of free, clean water, free electricity
and very clean restroom facilities. While ch--"rin- in
the outdoor facilities I watched a pair I 1i .." a
nearby tree and watched as three small owls explored
the recently plowed and cleared surface of the sur
rounding land.


The main town of Higuerote is a 20-cent, ten-minute
bus ride away and the town boasts six good hardware
stores and countless bakery/coffee shops as well as
the normal plethora of street vendors selling a vast
array of 1 i..... I and prepared food. On every
corner an i,,. ..... i i- fish stalls and/or bodegas, at
which a cold bottle of beer costs about 20 cents!
The main beach (which I walk along to town) is about
two mil- -1-n. nd never have I seen such a rich sup
ply of -I. 111.-I being harvested on a daily basis. I
walked into the gentle surf up to my knees and with
bare hands was able to collect over three dozen small
edible surf clams in less than one minute! Chipi-chipi,
as they are known locally, are like very small New
England quahogs and make a very similar tasting
chowder. One must remember, however, to leave the
clams in a bucket of seawater with some cornmeal for
a while. The normal siphoning process of the clam will
exchange the sand which it has carried from the sea
with the cornmeal that has been added to the water,
making a much more savory broth.
Now that my haul-out has been completed I am
anchored 200 yards away on the opposite side of the
channel at the entrance to an extensive mangrove
lagoon area, Carenero, which must be five times the
size of Carriacou's. Sitting here in the late afternoons
I watch flocks of red ibis, green parrots and pink fla
mingos returning from their day's :.-..... and on
weekends the Venezuelans come out: I .I...I groups
and camp on the beach at the head of the nr
where there are benches and barbecue I ..
Unlike in my New England hometown, the tenting is
not only allowed but is -;;--;;r-' "-d yes, there is
ball playing, loud music, ,, I I .. I, for cooking. In
Connecticut about the only thing you can do on the
beach is leave footprints and take pictures. (I certainly
would not eat the shellfish from there any longer.)
All the crowds in Puerto La Cruz oughta loosen up a
little and check it out for themselves, but sometimes I
think that the yachtsmen of today are a lot like the
folks who have to put bars on all their windows for the
"1.. ... I I. .... in a city .
John Smith
Mermaid of Carriacou

Dear Compass,
Like many fellow part-time cruisers, we have returned
to Trinidad to put our boat on the hard and fly home
until November. Preparing the boat for lay-up in the
Caribbean for hurricane season is a chore but it is one
we gladly accept as this means we will be back in the
islands again next fall.
Lay-up .1 i- one a chance to reflect on the
cruising - I I one am very glad that I will be
back aboard Circe and fortunate to have survived a
near mishap in our trusty dinghy, Evelyn (Evelyn is
named for our friend Roy's grandmother, but that's
another story).
Evelyn is a ten-foot rollup floored Avon powered by
an eight-horsepower Yamaha that has been our tender
without incident for 17 years. This tn.;- this sea
son on a March afternoon at the I I Falmouth
Harbor, Antigua. I was zipping across the anchorage in
Evelyn with the Yamaha throttle wide open and a light
touch on the tiller. The water was very smooth, there
were no nearby yachts and it was nice to be going
somewhere this windy season in the dinghy without
getting a lot of salt spray.
I' .1 -I ,II on the starboard side I .. I ....
with ... I 11 arm just like I have I ,. I I
times. In the blink of an eye, or maybe a nanosecond,
the tiller was no longer in my hand and Evelyn was in
Sfull I r -~~ rii- --nt-"t.t Inexplicably, the tiller
.i I ... ... .'. Somehow, and for some
reason, I was not thrown overboard. Something told me
to hit the floor quickly and crawl back to retrieve the
tiller. When it had slipped from my hand, the torque of
the propeller had turned the motor hard over and the
tiller was now over the port side transom. The fast-
1 ........ 1. ..... 1 very hard to do, but after three
.I ... I1..11 I I ,lined control of the tiller, throt
tied back and breathed a huge sigh of relief.
My mind flashed back to my youth when a friend
was thrown overboard, run down and killed by his own
boat. His football jersey was ..i11 .... I around the
propeller when his boat was i... .1 -Ii ped. He had
not used a safety lanyard.
I immediately put my sporadically used safety lan
yard, attached to the front of the outboard kill-switch,
around my wrist and finished my 1, 1, i
Finished is the operative word . 11 i i I fallen
overboard, there is no doubt in my mind that I would
have been hitby:.. .. ..11 i -i .......-. prop and
I might have bee: i.... I I
Since then, we always use the safety lanyard even on
short, slow trips. This incident has given me a new
perspective on dinghy safety. Now I look to see if peo
ple are using their safety lanyards. Many, just like me
in the past, do not.
I am also surprised at the number of cruisers who
make dinghy trips while standing up, alone or with a
partner, using long tiller extensions in their hard-bot
tom inflatables with big engines. Maybe they are using
lanyards clipped to their ankles, maybe not.
-Continued on next page


Nl.riina & l.1. I'r. iIIs


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- .


REAL SAILORS
BUY STREET'S GUIDES

Real sailors use Street's Guides for inter-island and harbor
piloting directions, plus interesting anecdotes of people,
places and history. Street's Guides are the only ones that
describe ALL the anchorages in the Eastern Caribbean.

Real sailors also buy the other guides, that have pretty
pictures and describe hotels, bars, restaurants and anchor-
ages that are popular with bareboaters.

Real sailors circle in Street's Guide the anchorages that
are not described in the other guides. This enables them
to find quiet anchorages far from "The Madding Crowd".

Street's Guides are available
at bookshops and chandleries, or from www.
iUniverse.com and www.seabooks.com




DON'T

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WITHOUT IT








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A -r sonal tou.h

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I;p European .ecur Iy

Admrzii Mawi e LImited
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-Continued from previous page
Either way, someone can fall out in that nanosec
ond, especially in a V-hulled RIB that can make a
steeply banked turn. Lots of these cruisers are our
friends and we want to keep them around for long,
long time.
If it can happen to me, it can happen to you. Please
wear that safety i ... .. i li .- .... i .!
(And Roy, we'll t i'. I, i ,,, 11 .. . 1 i
Harrison Evatt
S/V Circe

Dear Compass Readers,
Warning: the sea level in the Caribbean in June and July
is usually 12 to 18 inches lower than it is in the winter.
This is not reported in modern pilot books (my guide
does mention it) but it is a well-known fact that was
first reported by Mr. Lange, a naturalist living in St.
Croix back in the mid-19th century. It was reported in
the 1867 Norie & Wilson guide to the east coast of
North America and the Caribbean.
This means that, come low water springs in June
and July, the sea level can be as much as three feet
lower than during high water springs in the winter.
Thus, some shallow channels may be temporarily
unnavigable for deep-draft boats.
On another subject, as hurricane season approaches,
visit my website, www.street-iolaire.com, for inform
tion on hurricanes, boat preparation, hurricane holes,
securing for hurricanes, dodging hurricanes, etcetera.
Don Street
Glandore, Ireland

Dear Compass,
Being in the Caribbean for six years now and having
sailed many times up and down the islands, this year
I wanted to make a tour. I planned to go west from
Margarita to Curacao, from Curacao up to the
Dominican Republic and from there, heal .-t .t.i .
When the hurricane season started, I'd ..i i. ... ii
Virgin Islands back south to "nMr.lritn In Santo
Domingo, DR, I would apply fc. I isa for my
Venezuelan girlfriend, Glenda, who is sailing with me
as crew for seven months.
When we arrived in Boca Chica, DR, we took a
45-minute bus ride to Santo Domingo, where I did all
the necessary paperwork for the visa. At first we were
told we had to wait about six weeks for an interview,
i, i ,,. i.... sion (which cost me two PIN num-
i. i hj .. 7--r-i to have the interview
about 18 days later iI were waiting for the
interview we visited the island and I arranged for some
long-sought outboard parts to be sent from the US for
us to collect in Puerto Rico.
When the day appointed for the interview arrived
(April 15th), we went to the consulate. We arrived
early, but hundreds of other people were also waiting
on the hot, noisy street. We had already invested many
hours in the bank to buy the PIN numbers and pay for
the interview, r., i ..i... r the photos, but we felt
we were now i1 11I I I 1 long process, so we took
it as best as we could.
While we were waiting my girlfriend felt unwell and
had to lie down on the ground. Some people from the
consulate helped her inside, but I was not allowed to
go with her, and here is where things went wrong, I
think. When she was alone for the interview, she
explained that she was on a boat, so she had no
address, and that she was depending on me for her
financial status. She showed the papers indicating
that I was captain and owner of the boat, and she also
had my passport, documents showing my financial
status, and a crew list, but the man did not want to
see the papers. When asked why she wanted to go to
Puerto Rico, she said, "To visit." The official told her he
could not give her a visa, because she had no special
reason (such as visiting family) to visit Puerto Rico.
When she came out of the building and I saw her
face, I knew enough. I tried to talk with somebody from
the consulate but that was impossible. The only
recourse was to make another appointment, buy the
US$16 PIN, pay US$131 for another interview, and try
again.
After the disappointment comes the question: why
can't the US government give a yacht's crewmember a
visa so the boat can make a stop on the hard sail east?
Why does yacht crew need a special reason; does a
tourist need a reason to visit a country?
I write this letter while we are at sea. We beat against
the wind and current for three days until we got in the
lee of Puerto Rico. Last night, I was motorsailing about
four or five miles from the coast when the coastguard
checked me on the radio. They told me that because
-- irlfri-;n has no visa, I have to stay at least 12
:,i 1 -1. re, so I had to change course, making my
trip harder. Is there not a little bit of humanity in the
laws of the US?
Eddy
S/V Helena
Belgium

Dear Eddy,
US Immigration law may not be inhumane, but it is strict.
Yacht crews can get a visitor visa, but it helps to
know exactly what type of visa to ask for, and to clear


ly state that you want a visa because the yacht you
work on is going to (or is already in, if you're going to
join it) US waters. Merely saying "I want to visit" appar
ently isn't always enough -a "visitor" visa simply
means "non immigrant".
A visitor visa is for persons desiring to enter the
United States temporarily for business (B 1), for plea
sure or medical treatment (B2), or a combination of both
purposes (B 1/B2).
According to an article by Lucy Chabot Reed in the
March 29, 2007, issue of The Triton (www.the-triton.
cor), yacht crew should request a B- visa, which is a
visa for a visitor for business. US Customs and Border
Protection Agent Jack Garofano told The Triton, 'The
B 2 is not appropriate for yacht crew because that's a
visa for a visitor for pleasure. Commercial vessels are
the C1/D, which limits you to 29 days or less. Non
commercial vessels could be C1/D but the B I is more
appropriate for yachts....
"You have to make the case as to why the B I is more
appropriate," Garofano added. "There's nothing in the
law that says it, just the category that best describes
the job. In some instances people are told they should
get a C1/D. The B I is the more appropriate visa for
yacht crew."
The Marine Industries Association of South Florida's
Safety and Security Committee also sought advice from
different US government agencies familiar with the
maritime industry and the processing of crewmembers
as to which type of visa(s) are appropriate for non-US
citizens wishing to be a crewmember on a private
foreign-flag yacht cruising in US waters: "We under
stand the B I visa is the most appropriate for crewmem
bers entering the United States as crewmembers of a
private pleasure yacht."
The MIASF notes that the B-2 "visitor for pleasure"
designation allows a crewmember to enter the United
States for non work related activities such as vacations
with family or visits to relatives.
The US State Department's website notes, "Although
visa applicants may apply at any US consular office
abroad, it may be more difficult to qualify for the visa
outside the country of permanent residence."
It's therefore possible that if Glenda had appliedfor a
B- visa before leaving Venezuela, you might have been
able to cruise Puerto Rico and the US Virgins with her
aboard. Hope this information helps next time.
CC

Dear Compass Readers,
M y b ,,-l , .. ........ . ,
in ou I. -i, , i .. .
first heard about the problem. The Coconut Telegraph is
a morning radio net where cruisers in the Caribbean
check in and contact each other. One --.-n .in V.r-h
it was announced that a significant:... .
who had used ti. T i ... i ..i. i. i ... .. ....
during January i ... ... ... I. ..I .i ,11.,
als from their accounts. Like the other cruisers who
heard this, we packed up our laptop, loaded into the
dinghy and went to the local internet cafe. Sure enough,
both of Tim's cards had been compromised. Apparently,
there was about a six-week interim between card use
and the illicit withdrawals. (We are told this type of fraud
is accomplished with a chip installed into the ATM,
which downloads pertinent information from your card's
strip and from the ATM machine as you conduct your
transaction, including your PIN. The information can
then be sold around the world.)
Tim contacted his bank on Skype, but because we
were in Martinique and did not have a 220-volt adapt
er, the computer battery went dead before he finished
talking to them. By the time it was recharged, the
bank was closed, so it took two days to work through
the issues. Tim had not kept receipts from all his with
drawals, and the location of the various withdrawals
on his account was not listed when he pulled up his
account on the internet. However, he knew some were
not his because of the divergent amounts; he had con
sistently withdrawn the same amount each time he
went to the ATM.
Tim pays US$15 a month to have a "personal bank
er," a service not all banks provide. George worked
through each withdrawal with Tim to identify which
ones were fraudulent. As it turned out, the bank had
already rejected several of the attempted withdrawals,
most of which had come from Russia. About US$1500
had been taken from Tim's account. George needed a
police report, and rather than deal with the local
authorities, Tim phoned the police in our home sub
urb, and asked if he could e-mail them the facts and
have them file a report. They agreed. This was all done
by e-mail. Within three days, the bank replaced all the
money that had been stolen.
Tim transferred money into his credit card account in
the hopes that he could make cash withdrawals without
penalty, but was charged either US$5 or three percent
per transaction, whichever was higher. I had tried sev
eral times to get a withdrawal in English Harbour, but
my card did not work. As a result, my account was
untouched and could still be used to get cash.
There was a second wave of fraudulent withdrawals
from cruisers who used the English Harbour ATM in
March. Some cruisers had worse headaches than ours.
-ontinued on next page


STREET'S GUIDES
ARE MORE ECONOMICAL!
Written by an author with 50 years of sailing
experience in the Caribbean, the series' four volumes
cover the Eastern Caribbean from Puerto Rico
down through the islands and
the coast of Venezuela to the ABCs.













continued from previous page
One set of friends had a single debit card between
them, from a very small community bank who advised
them they needed to return to the US to file a police
report. We suggested they ask to speak to a supervi
sor, and they were ultimately able to .1 li.....
Their fraudulent withdrawals of over - ........
returned a few days later. They had the added prob
lem of low funding in their Skype account and had to
use another cruiser's credit card just to talk to their
bank. Another friend and his wife had used both their
cards at the ATM in English Harbour. Both accounts
had been compromised and they had no way I : I
money until their bank sent new cards. At the ....
this article, they were still waiting for their replace
ment cards, which were promised to have arrived
three days ago.
Based on these experiences, we have some suggest
tions for cruisers:
Maintain at least three ATM cards. Never use more
than one in any given location.
Use only ATMs from major US, Canadian or
European banks. If you are withdrawing money at a
local bank, go see the teller.
Keep your account at home with a relatively large
banking institution. Ask about the hours of their
"trouble line" or equivalent. Get to know your personal
banker or service representative.
For every account you intend to use, including
credit cards, call the bank and tell them which country
or region you will be in. Ask them to decline transac
tions from any other source. This is a bit troublesome,
but vastly helpful in avoiding both ATM and credit
card fraud.
Keep two accounts: a primary account from which
you withdraw your cash, and a second one for which
there is no card. Keep the majority of your cruising
funds in the second account, and use the internet or
phone to transfer money from it to the primary
account as needed.
Listen to your local cruisers net.
Check your account frequently and have the
phone number of your banker handy. Keep your
Skype account topped off enough to cover relatively
lengthy calls.
Save your receipts from ATM transactions and/or
always withdraw the same amount.
Unfortunately, ATM and credit card fraud is an
unavoidable reality for those who travel abroad. If you
anticipate it, you can go far in dealing with it efficiently.
Pattie Bittel
S/Y Tevai

Hi Compass,
We were with friends at Antigua for the famous
Classic Yacht Regatta in April on my boat, a Mikado
ketch. We had, like every year, wonderful times follow
ing along the legs of each race, watching all the com-
petition. In the evenings we went ashore for some
beers and rum punch, rum and cokes, etcetera. Of
course, we needed some extra cash so we went to the
one and only ATM machine in English Harbour to get
some money via credit card.
On April 25th, we left Antigua to go to Martinique
then Bequia, where we have our home base.
How surprised I was when I took a look at my bank
balance (Societe Generale in France) on the internet
and saw mystery debits totaling around 2,300 euros!
I immediately called my bank to cancel my credit
card, which was pirated between April 24th and 29th.
Checking my statement, it seems that a pirate
accessed my account via the ATM machine at English
Harbour. He was apparently operating from Russia
because the debit was in Russian roubles, debited in
euros on my account. He entered apparently by first
making a credit of 268 euros and immediately making
the same amount of debit. Then, several times over a
period of four days, he made nine withdrawals of up
to 300 euros.
I have insurance against this risk, but imagine the
jackpot for this guy who operated by internet or other
technology during this regatta and all the festivities at
Antigua. I have made a report to the French police.
Many thanks,
Dominique
Mikado of Sark

Dear Compass Readers,
We understand that the police and the relevant bank
in Antigua have also been made aware of the problem.
CC

Hi, Compass Readers,
My name is Suzie, formerly of S/V Gypsy. Recently I
received the very sad news that Gypsy has sunk at
Hog Island, Grenada. I was and still am quite upset by
this news, as I believed that she had a future with her
new owner whom I believed was going to take her back
to former glory.
It was heartbreaking when Gypsy .- 1;, ;-1
apparently beyond repair in Hurricane I' .,.. ..... i
can honestly say "hand on heart" that I will never for
get the spirit, will and brilliance of the Grenadian
people and I often think emotionally of the island that
captured my heart. In fact I can't think of better people


to sit and take a beer or rum with.
Since being back in the UK, I now have a 19-month
old daughter who is the most beautiful girl on Earth
and I am hoping she will also be a violin virtuoso!
(Anyone who knows me and spent a musical afternoon
on the beach will know what I mean.) I think that one
day, hopefully not too far away, I will return to that
beautiful place and 1 ... 1.,,, 1. experience the
brilliant way of life 11 -... I 1. I .cal people expe
rience every day.
I often sit at work at my desk now in England and
dream of what I left behind. I only wish I had appreci
ated it more when I had it!
I would love to make contact with any of my old
friends whom I didn't manage to gather contact details
from, especially my old music partner Keith from S/V
Nomad. I would love to hear from you all at gypsypal
ace@hotmail.com.
Love,
Susannah "Suzie" Schofield
Gosport, UK

Dear Compass,
Further to the letter from Teri of S/YFree in the May
edition regarding snail mail, some years ago I lived and
worked in Malawi, Central Africa. A friend sent me a
letter from London addressed simply to:
Mzungu
Malawi College of Forestry
"Mzungu" means "white man" in the local Malawian
(Chichewa) language. The letter arrived in the usual
time, much to the amusement of the postman.
Neil Batcheler
S/Y Adonde

Hi All,
I went to Paria Bay on Trinidad's north coast for a
five-day holiday, which I intended to use as an oppor
tunity to play 1 1 1 ... ,, EMCOMMS skills.
In particular, I ... I i... i.... the Winlink system
that I have been using at home on my old laptop.
We arrived at Paria on a Wednesday and spent the
day getting the camp set up. Once all was under
control, I was able to concentrate on getting my radio
up and running. It was so late in the day however,
that I was only able to set up the antenna before
darkness descended, so I had to leave the rest for the
following day.
On the Thursday I installed the radio, tuner and a
power/swr meter and ran the co-ax to the antenna.
I then spent the better part of the day trying to get
the antenna to tune. Something was obviously
wrong with the antenna but I could not put my fin
ger on the source of the problem. I was able to check
in on the CEWN, but the SWR was in excess of 2:1
so I kept it short.
Darkness w-. -:.;in -1 ---;;ing, so I put the 4:1
balun for the i I I'. connection about two
feet high on the stump of a tree where it would be out
of the way of anyone or anything passing by in the
darkness. What I did not pay attention to was the end
of the line that was supporting the antenna in the
tree overhead. It was tied to the same stump, and the
end of it (about 20 feet) was on the sand. This was
about 40 feet to the right of my tent and I had the
radio and related equipment set up on a bamboo
table in front the tent, about two feet above ground.
Everything was safe and sound when I went to bed at
about 12:30AM.
I woke at about 6:30AM and went outside with the
intention of checking in to the CEWN again, but
instead I saw my end of my coax cable in the surf
minus the balun, the tuner and power meter halfway
down the beach and the radio upside down in the
sand, about six feet away from the table.
A Leatherback Turtle had come up to lay her eggs in
front the tent and when she was returning to the sea,
apparently snagged the antenna line, which snagged
the balun, which pulled the power meter, tuner et al
halfway down the beach. The only thing that saved it
all from going in the sea was that when the turtle
reached the surf, the co-ax finally separated from the
balun. The damage to the cable alone was amazing.
Anyway, while there is no visible damage to the
radio, it has NO EARS! It is totally silent on all bands.
I just put it back in line here at home and it is not
transmitting either. Something is seriously wrong.
The tuner has relatively minor damage, with both
SO239s and the back of the tuner twisted out of
shape. The RG58 between the tuner and radio
popped, which saved the rig from going far in the
sand, the power meter seems to be okay, and my
55-foot length of low-loss coax is not good for any
thing anymore. So, I will be off the air for a while,
until I can get a replacement.
This is a good example that anything that can go
wrong will, so take note. I would appreciate if someone
would come up on 3855 at 6:30AM and let everyone
there know that I may be off the air for a while.
Regards,
Eric Mackey
9Z4CP


Continued on next page


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Continuedfrom previous page

Dear Compass,
Not many of us cruisers seem to stop in Canouan. It
is a shame because those who don't are missing out.
We have sailed up and down the islands many times,
and while cruising the Grenadines we would never
miss the opportunity to anchor in Canouan. The only
problem seems to be in leaving again!
There is more to Canouan than the Raffles resort. It
is a lovely little island with beautiful beaches, excellent
S. i i,". ".. ~ diving and extremely friendly people.
ihI make sure you find the great "yacht
friendly" bar/restaurant, Majella's on the Beach. It is
literally on the beach in Charlestown Bay, close to the
commercial jetty (but don't let that put you off the
beach is extremely clean and the water is perfectly
clear.) We have spent quite a few evenings there (and
the occasional afternoon!). We were made to feel wel
come immediately and within a very short time we
were chatting with tourists and locals alike. The food
is great, varied and inexpensive -everything from
salads and snacks to main courses and delicious des
erts. Majella, the owner, is an Irish woman who has
spent a long time in the Caribbean; she and her staff
have time for a chat with everyone. They also know
everyone an I 1..... that is happening in the area,
so they are ,. .1 .i .. need help or advice.
Don't go to Canouan looking for excitement and
adventure. Go to chill out on the beach, have a few
beers and some good food and get away from it all for
a day or two. Once you have been there you will defi
nitely want to go back again.
Ruth and Terry
S/Y Thunder

Dear Compass Readers,
We want to hear from YOU!
Please include your name, boat name or address, and
a way we can contact you (preferably by e-mail) if
clarification is required.
We do not publish individual consumer complaints or
individual regatta results complaints. (Kudos are okay!)
We do not publish anonymous letters; however, your
name may be withheld from print at your request.
Letters may be editedfor length, clarity and fair play.
Send your letters to:
sally4caribbeancompass.com
or fax (784) 457-3410
or
Compass Publishing Ltd.
Readers' Forum
Box 175BQ
Bequia
St. Vincent & the Grenadines


A-'











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Bunkered Fuel (+10,0001t)
EU-VAT (15%) Importation

Bequia

0 TEAK US$1O-11/BF

MARINE PLY

HARDWOOD


Bequia, St. Vincent
Phone: (784) 457-3000
caribwoods@vincysurf.com






in Lower Bay, Bequia
Come and find us amongst the trees!
Candlelight Dinners
Monday to Saturday
Please Reserve!



PORTHOLE RESTAURANT & BAR
& Shoreline Mini-Market
We serve breakfast,
lunch and dinner
VHF CH68
Phone (784) 458-3458
A friendly atmosphere where you can sit and meet people.
Admiralty Bay, Bequia
Noelina & Lennox Taylor welcome you!


Carriacou


SLIN@S

PHOtS3TERYP Uls
r m lN, T OVAJtrlY WM .
MARINE AND GENERAL UPHOLSTERY
BOAT CANVAS WORK.
,* FINE ART- LEATHER8-CRAFTA.

TYREU BAY)CARI/ WJM.. 4M73440164

Dominica
UNIQUE IN DOMINICA
Roseau & Portsmouth
Tel 767-448-2705 Fax 767-448-7701
SA Dockmaster Tel 767-275-2851 VHF 16
CIUUUi nfo@ domlnlcamannecenter cor
gggh vvWW domlnicamannecenter com
The Dominica Marine Center is the
home of the Dominica Yacht Club
and your center for
* Yacht Moonng Anchorage Grocery Store & Provisioning
* Bakery (Sukle's Bread Company) Water at dock Fuel
(Unleaded / Diesel) Ice Yacht Chandlery agents Budget
Manne /Sea Choice Products Mercury Marine / Yanmar Manne
* LP Gas (propane) refills Showers & Toilets (WC)* Garbage
Disposal Security Telephone & Fax Mobile Phone Rental/
SIM Top Up Laundry WIFI Internet Beach Bar* Nearby
Restaurants Taxi & Tour Operators Whale Watching & Sport
Fishing Light Engine and Boat Repair Customs / Immigration
Clearance Information *Visa/ MasterCard accepted

[ Grenada


TechNick Ltd.
Engineering, fabrication and
welding. Fabrication and repair of
stainless steel and aluminium items.
Nick Williams, Manager
Tel: (473) 536 1560/435 7887
S.I.M.S. Boatyard, True Blue, Grenada
technick@spiceisle.com


t Martinique




THE SPECIALIST FOR
BOAT MAINTENANCE
IN MARTINIQUE


A&C Yacht Brokers
Batraux cus el d'oecusion









International Yacht Broker
Bateaux Neufs et Occasion
I .. ... .. .. OON, Fountaine PAJOT



PETIT BRETON
Port de plaisance, 97 290 Le MARIN, Martinique, FWI
Tel: + 596 (0)596 74 74 37 Cell: + 596 (0)696 29 71 14
www.petit-breton-antilles.fr pbavente@orange.fr


Phone (+596) 596 74 77 70
carenantilles.marin @ wanadoo.fr
www.carenantilles.com



continued on next page









*
Ciriba Cops Iare Place


I Martinique


St. Lucia


artiniquer
-, U


LoaNG FoR FLAGS?


A

















mSu: LE TEAMI 01T1US LS CAIN1UANTS


Ba-issos-&oc-Gaz-Lbr rvck-Lawnri
Horlroe NON STOP de Th I 19h
Farm6 Ie Dimanche
CE_ OE CAaENAiE 9720 LE MAi
T&. 05 7470 9 -FAX 67478 08



Voiles Assistance
Oidier and Maria
LE MARIN/MARTINIQUE
Sails & Canvas (repairs & fabrication]
located at Carenantilles dockyard
Open Mondau to Fridau 8- 1 2am 2-6pm
Saturday bg appointment
tel/fax: (596] 596 74 88 32
e-mail: didier-et-maria@wanadoo.fr


St. Maarten

A CIRExpress
COURIER SERVICES
St. Maarten/ St. Martin, collect
and deliver door to door

ST. MAARTEN
Packages Pick up call:
+ (599) 553-3850 / + (590) 690-222473
Int. 001-3057042314
E-mail: ericb@megatropic.com

Trinidad
Saca Sails or 9EST SeTrvlce





New Sa.ls Sail Repet Canras Fimatocn
Wincthes Sad Canvas Conoltmaons
l .


CARIBBEAN MARINE
ELECTRICAL LIMITED Vhrdkdk*
AC L1 IUCYtILM
* Hi~b OiipuI MnAltrrr & R& pulanw
0 (Ihj*1pn & Iftirlefhabtqn

... SOW I*.II. WIR $"te......n% I..
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Outboard
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ecba[U


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LTD

TrindedW


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- 11

Rwaft
thaulwooft
Rvilmr


THIS COULD BE


YOUR
MARKET PLACE AD
Book it now:
tom @ caribbeancompass.com
r contact your local island agent

continued on next page -


mma


I


Trinidad





A~* prints


b Q I v ,- I -jA
0% STIEW4
















KNJ
MARLINE SERVICE LTD.
Thpiquc & G7Paht~qig
o- 1'e~1L ln*W LOC~
FlbrDgI~i a F ~p w
* Med~i~Lki & B~bIecti SrI~epaw I __











WHAT S ON MY MIND



The End of

the Season

by John Rowland
The Antigua Classic I II, is over, including the
infamous Mount Gay "r. I i. party, held this year on
.. Beach. We're anchored in Falmouth Harbour.
11 e here a few more days, waiting for autohelm
components. Then we'll start the run south, to be out
of the insurance "box" before 1 June. This cruising
season is over. One of my friends likened this cruising
life to university student life, without the classes. It's
6:30AM and, as I watch the steady stream of boats
leave the harbor, my friend's comment resonates in
my mind.
Back in the university days, the end of Spring Term
generated a very complex bundle of emotions. There
was the relief that exams were over but there was also
the odd sense that something ended. There were the
"end of term" parties where, before the beer dulled the
senses too much, conversations focused on the vari
ous plans for the upcoming summer. Most were
headed for summer jobs, some in the hometown, oth
ers in some exotic resort or residence at a camp as a
counselor. Some were headed for a summer academic
term to help accelerate graduation or meet some
missed or failed requirement. And there were those
who would not be back in the fall: perhaps to go home
to join the family business; perhaps to marry the girl
or boy next door; perhaps called to military service;
perhaps a transfer to another institution; perhaps
simply facing the fact that university studies are not
for everyone. As the realization that some close rela
tionships will be interrupted or terminated, some of
these conversations carried significant emotional



The music, the beach-party
atmosphere, the free-flowing
alcohol and the festive spirit
of the participants
would be the envy of
any university party crowd




intensity. The emotion mixed with the music and the
beer, combining to create a very poignant feeling.
The parallel of the Mount Gay beach party to the
"end of Spring Term" parties is undeniable. The
music, the beach-party atmosphere, the free-flowing
alcohol and the festive spirit of the participants
would be the envy of any university party crowd.
Granted, the crowd is older, but they are more prac
ticed and experienced.
The conversations, before the rum dulls the senses
too much, focus on the upcoming hurricane season:
who is going to Trinidad, or Grenada, or Venezuela, or
the ABCs; who is goin. I .I back to North America or
Europe or into the I what maintenance jobs
need to be done; new equipment to be installed; how
long the boat will be on the hard. And there are those
who will not be cruising next season: those who've
reached a predetermined time limit and wish to go do
other things; those who need to go back to be with
family; those with demanding business issues. There
is also gossip about some cruising couples whose rela
tionship has cracked under the 24/7 strain of this
cruising life and boats that might be for sale or be
single-handed next season. The realization that we
may lose contact with some of the comrades of our
cruising adventures conjures up emotions and a sense
of loss. The emotions mix with the music and the rum,
--i-i;-;;; t- -r-te a feeling very much akin to that
i 1 ... ... ago at university.


Trinidad


iH E rL

ELECTRDPICS



W IA$TERVOLT SIy
ACR


GAM 'IO

&A-i aD xlt
i"~i I~ljPi" 'CRf,~i :llJilC C~Cil~


THIS COULD BE


YOUR
MARKET PLACE AD
Book it now:
tom@caribbeancompass.com
or contact your local island agent


Marine Distributors
www.IslandWaterWorld.com
sales@lslandWaterWorld.com
St Thomas, St Maarten,
St Lucia, Grenada
P: 599-544-5310 F: 599-544-3299


Home of the
5 Year 50,000
Mile Guarantee




DOYLE
U A l M A t I
ww da.decarbbeanao m


Wilh dr rin
loPu onr ftom
Puertoo Ric* to
Parkarna


CA R IB BEA N C HA N D LER IES S e e o u r a d

BUDGET Seeourad
on the
M ARINE inside cover

The Caribbean's
-\ Leading Chandlery







To advertise in Caribbean Compass
Market Place, contact your island agent
(see list on page 4) or contact Tom at
(784) 457 3409
tom@caribbeancompass.com


Caribbean-wide


We're on the Web!

Caribbean Compass
www.caribbeancompass.com



C MPASS


N60 chElevolc Linlk~


i: "" """
" """"




























URGENT SALE VENUS 46,1984
KETCH fiberglass, gc, new
engne very well equipped
excellent live aboard and
cruiser. Price reduced from
US$199000 toUS$16900yONO
for a fast sale. Lyng S Lucia. F
more info and pictures please


I.d






1v8t B-r.-i-Ou 5 II 1.: .-
dition, plenty of new
upgrades, ready to sail
located Palm Island, SVG
Infoon www.artandsea.com
Tel: (784) 458-8829 E-mail
palmdoc@vincysurf.com


orrefit Nov. 07,4 dbcabins
ood sails, lyingin Martinique
45,000 Euros E-mail
d.bouquet@asericharter.com








Admiral 38 Catamaran. For
ae Summer 2008. You can
follow her adventure now at
web mac com/famouspotatoes2
PACIFIC SEACRAFT
CREALOCK 34 highly regard-
ed blue water cruiser US$75K
Details on www.petetheno-
mad.com Tel (473) 415-1026
PANOCEANC 43 Ted Brewer
designed cutter 1983 Fully
equipped for ivebocard cruis-
ing. s water, 230s fuel 2
staterooms, 2 heads w/shwr.
Located Windward Islands.
US$1250DOOBOMaeinfoE-mal
caribccptdn@yahoo.ccm


2 sets racing sails, US 61.000
St.Lucia duty paid. Other
boats for sale:
1981 Cape Dory 30, US
39.0D0, St.Lucia duty paid,
2002 Oceanis 36, 2 cabin
US 94.000,
1975 German Frers 39ft,
sets racing sails, US 61.000
St.Lucia duty paid,
2000 Dehler 41CR, 3 cabin
US 255.0D0,
2001 Beneteau 50, 3 cabin
US 199.0D0,
2000 Catana 471, 4 cabin
460.000 Euros,
1994 Lagoon 47,4 cabin, US
259.000,
Tel (758) 452-8531
E-mail destsll@candw.lc








LAGOON 380 2003 0: r,
sells upgraded excellent con-
ditin,4double cabin/2bath
Low time Yanmar. Solar +
Wind generator + largebat-
tery bank. Must see in
Guadeloupe. Call and we'll
send you a private aircraft to
come see the boat E-mail:
airtropical@yahoo.com
170.000.T el (767)4404403.
NICHOLSON 32 Plastic clas-
sic, long keeled, solidly built,
extensively upgraded, fully
equipped, ready to cruise.
Lying ashore Grenada 1 4.5K
brumby4sale@yahoo.com







,tiA C -..' 8, 1e9,d i r
Vdvo TA-- 40s, New parts,just
overhauled, fuel effident and
ready far work US$ 39,700
Tel: (767) 275-2851 E-mail
nfo@dominicamarinecenter com
26' WOODEN GAFF
CUTrER,2006 An award win-
ning classic design by Mark
Smaalders.Traditional carvel
hull mahogany on pine.
New monitor windvane, SS
6mm anchor chain, 3
anchors. All gear less than 2
years old!Cozy cream paint-


CLASSIFIED

ed/varnished mahogany bedroom, full kitchen, laun-
interior.Unique little yacht dry, level with road no
with a humble price tag! stairs! 12,558 sq ft of land,
Lying St.Maarten. US$70K. fenced with mature
For more info E-mail lund- fruit trees. US$320,000, Term
- ...- : : : :- rental available. E-mail
Il. i. jocelyne.gautier@wanadoo.fr

and multi acre tracts. Great
views overlooking Southern
2 X 54FT FIBERGLASS Grenadines and Tyrrel Bay
CATAMARAN HULLS www.caribtrace.com
Tel (868) 683-9135 E-mail
JanDutch@tstt.net.tt BEQUIA PROPERTIES A clas-
sic Belmont villa in 1 acre
2,033 D0DUS, The Village
Apartments Business
1,890,0CDUS, Admiralty Bay
900,000US, Spring Villa
1,750,0DDUS LowerBay
1.60D,0D0US, Friendship
320,000US, Moonhole
750,000US, relax & enjoy
FLOATING DRY DOCK Built Bequia life.
1997, haul out 1000 tons. Tel (784)4550969E-mail
Width: 51 Length: 165 Draft: grenadinevillas@mac.com
12 Weight: 28 ton. Located www.grenadinevillas.com
in Martinique, possibilities to
take to Dominica with 5-10 BEQUIA, Lower Bay, Bells
year tax relief. In need of Point, House and Land.
some minor repairs, sold with Serious buyers only. Sale by
or without repairs carried owner. Call (784) 456 4963
out. Asking 312,0D3 Euros or after 6pm. E-mail
possible partnership For lulleym@vincysurf.com
more info E-mail


SELDEN RIG for VINDO 35, AFRICAN SAFARI for your
deck stepped, boom, next holiday try the
spreaders, lights, winches African Safari Experience
(has been changed for www.hazeyview.com
upgrade) ask for details
Tel (758) 452-8531 BEQUIA HOUSE FOR RENT
E-mail destsll@candw.lc 2 bedroom/2 bath, fur-


MASTS TURBULENCE
GRENADA One new Selden
17m inmast furler/ 2
spreader sets/ steps
suitable for monohull.
Tel (473) 439-4495/415-8271
E-mail turbsail@spiceisle.com

36HP YANMAR OUTBOARD
DIESEL Trinidad Tel
(868) 683-9135 E-mail
JanDutch@tstt.net.tt

CHARTER COMPANY CLEAR-
ANCE SALE: Selden mast
with rigging for 40 footer,
winches, engine parts,
windlass diesel stove, sails,
and lots more ask for
complete list
E-mail destsll@candw.lc
Tel (758) 452-8531

BOATSFOR SALE INTRINIDAD
Tel (868) 739-6449
www.crackajacksailing.net



FRIENDSHIP BAY, BEQUIA
Lovely 1250 sq ft. cottage,
100 yards from beach. 2
master bedrooms, 1 guest


nished, hot water, on road
to Mt. Pleasant, private, fruit
trees, beautiful view, long/
short term. Wanda Leslie Tel
(784) 455-7580 or Willis
Gooding (604) 466-9953
PUERTO LA CRUZ, VENZ.
INSURANCE SURVEYS, elec-
trical problems and yacht
deliveries. Tel Cris Robinson
(58) 416-3824187 E-mail
crobinson@telcel.net.ve
BEQUIA HOMEMADE
BREADS & Cakes madefresh
every day! Wholewheat, mul-
tigrain, banana bread, herbs
& flax, butter crescents. To
place order Tel (784)
457-3527/433-3008 E-mail
bequiasweetiepie@ychoo.com
Orders are delivered FREE

NIMROD'SRUM SHOP, GRENADA
Eggs, bread, cheese, ice on
sale. Tad service available,
propane tank fill-up,
personal laundry service.
happy Hour every day from
5-6pm Moonlight party every
full moon. VHF 16

BEQUIA BEQUIA CANVAS
Interior/exterior/customized
canvas specialist


Tel (784) 457-3291 E-mail
beqcan@vincysurf.com
COUPLE AVAILABLE TO
STAND-IN FOR YOU Do you
manage a small hotel, B&B
or Marina? Need a holiday
or to take time out. Can
cover anywhere in
Caribbean region. NO
salarylOne-off manage-
ment fee only. For full
details and terms E-mail
gailforce5@yahoo.com
WATERMAKERS Complete sys-
tems, membranes, spares and
service available at Curacao
andPuertoLaCruz,Venezuela.
--: I : .,i.,,: :

In PLC Tel (58)416-3824187



OPPORTUNITY TO HELP
DEVELOP SMALL ARTISTS'
COLONY with gallery, work-
shops, pottery, cottages in
process. Suit energetic (early
retired?) craftsman/woman o
artist with wood/stone building
skills a plus. Partnership in gal-
lery or workshop and sales
space etc. in trade for start-up
help. Beautiful rainforest, 1 mile
to beach. USVI, needs US Visa
greencard o citizenship E-mail
raintree.arts@gmail.com
SERVICE ADMINISTRATOR
needed for busy Marine
Industrial Service business in
Road Town, Tortda, BVI. Must
have excellent organizational
skills, ability to write service
reports and prepare warranty
claims, strong communica-
tional skills, project manage-
ment and cost accounting
skills, and the ability to handle
quality control issues.
Mechanical background with
marine experience preferred.
Fax CV (284) 494-972 E-mail
tom@partsandpower.com
SVG-MAINIENANCE MANAGER
Must have extensive knowl-
edge in the yachting
industry, 3 years experi-
ence in a managerial posi-
tion, experience in
mechanics, electronics &
electrical, fiberglass work
& rigging, good oral & writ-
ten communication skills
and be able to work, train
and supervise others. Boat
building skills & experience
will be an asset.The suc-
cessful applicant responsi-
ble for managing fleet up
to ninety yachts. E-mail
svgyachts@vincysurf.com

SVG-CHEF Primary responsibili-
ties ensure a hic quality prod-
uct create a positive, upbeat
environment for our guests &
staff, train & develop staff,


deliver a great service experi-
ence to our guests, maintain
proper cost controls. Job qual-
ifications, international cuisine,
2 years experience
as a Head Chef. E-mail
svgrestaurant@vincysurf.com
SALESPERSON NEEDED for
busy marine chandlery in St.
Thomas, VI. Experience in
marine retail and/or boat
maintenance preferred. Must
be US citizen. See www.bud-
getmarine.com for detailed
job description. Rease send
resume E-mail Paige.
Passano@budgetmarine.com
RIGGING TECHNICIAN with
experience needed for
TubulenceSails Pricy Bayloca-
tion Tel (473) 439-4495 E-mcil
Richard turlecespiede com
INDEPENDENT REFIT
SPECIALIST needed for 55'
trimaran. Rigging/mechani-
cal/cosmetic work, In the
water, Bequia. E-mail
daffodil_harris@yahoo.com
ELECTRONIC MARINE SALES
Key responsibilities; Assisting
and advising customers on
marine electronic systems.
Sale of Marine Electronic
items. Sale of pumps and toi-
let parts Customer service
throughout the whole pro-
cess from order to delivery.
Requirements: at least
2 years experience in elec-
tronic marine sales with in
depth knowledge of the prod-
ucts. Excellent customer
service skillsAblity to perform
basic tests on electrical/elec-
tronic itemsMust be fluent in
English and French Must
have Dutch Nationalityorvalid
working paper. Send written
application including a resume
to Budget Marine N.V. attn.
Marous v.d. Bosch, PO box
434, Philipsburg, St. Maarten or
E mail to Marlous.vdBosch@
budgetmarine.com, or fca to
544-4409. For additional
information please
call 544-3134 extension 243.

MARINE TECHNICIAN
WANTED IMMEDIATELY
Respected Marine
Engineering Co, in Grenada
seeking all around experi-
enced technician for diesel,
electrical, electronics,
water makers & refrigera-
tion. Ideal for cruiser or
independent tech looking
for the stability of an estab-
lished company in Gr
enada CV to; E-mail
enzamarine@caribsurf.com
Tel (473)439-2049


Admiral Yacht Insurance UK
Anjo Insurance Antigua
Art Fabrlk Grenada
B & C Fuel Dock Petite Martinique
Barefoot Yacht Charters St Vincent
Bequia Marina Bequia
Bogles Round House Carriacou
Budget Marine Sint Maarten
BVI Yacht Sales Tortola
Camper & Nicholsons Grenada
Captain Gourmet Union Island
Caralbe Greement Martinique
Caralbe Yachts Guadeloupe
Carenanblles Martinique
Carene Shop Martinique
Cooper Marine USA
Corea's Food Store Mustique Musbque
Curagao Marine Curagao
Dockwise Yacht Transport Sari Martinique


Dopco Travel
Down Island Realestate
Doyle Offshore Sails
Doyle's Guides
Echo Marine Jotun Special
Errol Flynn Marina
Food Fair
Fred Marine
Grenada Marine
Grenadines Sails
GRPro-Clean
Heineken Regatta Curagao
lolaire Enterprises
Island Dreams
Island Water World
Johnson Hardware
Jones Maribme
Jordan Boats
KP Marine


Grenada
Carriacou
Tortola
USA
Trinidad
Jamaica
Grenada
Guadeloupe
Grenada
Bequia
Martinique
Curagao
UK
Grenada
Sint Maarten
St Lucia
St Crolx
UK
St Vincent


33 Lagoon Marina Hotel
44 Lagoonleville Novels
3 LIAT
39 Lulley's Tackle
10 Mclntyre Bros Ltd
22 Navimca
44 Northern Lights Generators
8 Peake Yacht Brokerage
29 Perkins Engines
41 Petit St Vincent
49 Ponton du Bakoua
17 Prickly Bay Marina
46/48 Renaissance Marina
47 Santa Barbara Resorts
56 Sea and Sail
12 Seasickness Prevention
49 Seminole Marine
55 Silver Diving
49 Simpson Bay Marina


St Vincent
St Thomas
Caribbean
Bequia
Grenada
Venezuela
Tortola
Trinidad
Tortola
PSV
Martinique
Grenada
Aruba
Curagao
Guadeloupe
Trinidad
Guadeloupe
Carriacou
St Maarten


11 Soper's Hole Marina
39 Soreldom
50 Spice Island Marine
42 St Thomas Yacht Sales
47 Superwind
25 SVG Air
32 SVG Tourism
55 Tikal Arts & Crafts
16 Trade Winds Cruising
38 True Blue Bay
34 Turbulence Sails
35 Tyrrel Bay Yacht Haulout
7 Vemasca
20 Virgin Gorda Yacht Harbour
26 Volvo
43 Wallllabou Anchorage
9 Xanadu Marine
40
10


Tortola 34
Martinique 19
Grenada 30
St Thomas 55
Germany 27
St Vincent 31
St Vincent 6
Grenada 46
Bequla 55
Grenada 29
Grenada 30
Carnacou 40
Venezuela 43
Virgin Gorda 11
Marnique 18
St Vincent 41
Venezuela 42
























































OVNI 435 2006
Aluminium Centerboarder Like NEW I
Martinique 299 000
MONOHULL
Amel 54 2005 Full Option
Ted Brewer 53 Motor Sailor Aluminium
Amel Super Maramu 53 1998
Beneteau Oceanis 473 2003
Bavaria 36 1999


Lagoon 410 2004
Lagoon 380 2003
Belize 43 2004
L .::.-,J- 000


CATAMARAN


2 Cabins -
St Maarten

Tahiti
Florida
Florida
Martinique
Martinique
S
St Martin
Guadeloupe
St Martin
Martinique


Full Option
145 000 US$

739 000
295 000 US$
339 000 US$
163 000
69 500
270 000
S 160 000
250 000
385 000


-s spe iirrn i s III II I(i ii~ it: SI et 431!
c t~ a t a a Cr a W At F Ir ll t C arI ib be a
YACHT BROKERAGE
:1 2112 eg. C. %110.(D (8IDU tolIij) 1601-111111
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I,$ I'm 131 0- salitr VLl' JAN co O

16 VI",I ha Cumiian. Ct (srd for vick ii ) e V5l5.iW.W
4 MEI uaviii tnmii.an 4.itcd fy., qrck "I*-;' US .I~ ow amc
04 MI =. 640 C(tran (Istel t ird~t*.r. 4411qo0
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is: I I = C.41 A. Vi m i o w W
W1 191" MnI (aIr amirs ntVI14.OOQ do
fl If ln AlurI ~ (iwcl'"? r m124WO.COPg


ST. THOMAS YACHT SALES
Compass Point Marina, 6300 Est. Frydenhoj, Suite 28,
St. Thomas, U.S.V.I. 00802

Tel: (340) 779-1660
Fax: (340) 779-2779
yachts@lslands.vi


44' 1982 Ta Chlao CT 33' 1973 Pearson 10M Sloop,
$89,900 $33,500
Sail
37' 2001 Bavaria Sloop, 3 strms, Yanmar diesel $ 79,500
40' 1986 Hunter Legend roomy, aft cockpit $ 69,000
40' 1987 O'Day Sloop, Westerbeke, 2 strms $ 60,000
43' 1995 Hunter 430, stepped transom, 2 strms $119,000

Power
14' 2006 Aquascan Jetboat, 160HP Yamaha $ 34,900
31' 1999 Sea Ray Sundancer, new engines, 2005 $ 79,900
32' 1996 Carver 325, twin crusaders great condition $ 99,000
38' 1999 Sea Ray Sundancer, mercruisers, 18 kts, $167,000

Call, fax or visit our website for a complete list of boats for sale
www.stthomasyachts.com


Ever thought of building your own boat?

<*P^ ha, l range of over 50 designc in
I.r. ':r. ,nd Tape or Glued Li:r a-I j L
,:.:-r:i u].: rii-o ranging from -trr tI derid
22Irr .:,I i ,Jising yacht.
i haven't already, ITade'3
ar ,r the design you ,-r .
p i, obably can.
:InI Low freight rCre: -:rreled -
C, Chest Line, we .: ?,-, :rIoi- ,ur -

e.c ,t ,,,yi h knit: Irl r i e



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11 Hu Nl sMi dnne i lT' ibh t1 K i AT 5Hi rn tr li'inh 77 l rai. I hd Jb70
We are. the fa sts growing cr m panyr I*
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CREW VACANCIES!

e-mail: crew@tradewindscruiseclub.com
m TradeWinds Cruise Club operate a fleet of catamarans across
IADEIMnDS six destinations in the Caribbean.
We are the fastest growing charter company,
operating TERM CHARTERS, all inclusive, 7 days.
We are looking for crew, mainly teams in the form of a Captain and a Chef/Hostess.
We prefer couples that are married OR have been living together for at least a year.
The nature of the job is such that the better the understanding and teamwork
between Captain and Chef the more successful your charters will be.
Requirements: Captain with a Skipper's licence.
Chef/Hostess with a basic understanding of cooking.
Dive master/ instructor for either the Captain and/or Chef is a plus.
We offer full training onsite in the Caribbean.
This is a FUN job with great earning potential. If you are willing to work hard and
have a positive disposition to life this could be your DREAM job.
Anyone with an interest is welcome to apply.
If you would like more information about this job or send your CV to us, please
use this email address:

crewf(tradewindscruiseclub.com
or by mail to: Bequia Marina, P.O.Box 194BQ, Port Elizabeth,
Bequia, St Vincent & the Grenadines
Tel. St Vincent +784 457 3407 Tel. St Maarten +599 5510550









Whaf's New
0aI sLan W -Iat a Woll*l dJun


- i


FENDR COVERS BY FINDE.DSMO


Mr


Fender cover by FENDER-DESGN are
an economical sluion at a rain
of the cs of raditionol socks.
* Cu o kngi endrsodr
* Wh se rolng border Mi Nedc
* Amvwde i Navy Mur mad Mkia
* F up Io 12tlnchdrAimnft fm
* Small szes a 16-22 an dinner
* large as N 22-J n dmnawer


toIc!r,-Icf -'.csw


Features te iRo Ned, a cwiMpleer new dosurm The hNgihy eck i lubulr lbk ros on stlf
after he cu, no sewn no nj ing, no kce


What you need


Brat keodng ilorable now waabl e in the Caribbean
inferive reseOardt rsier of cold vAcamt dn the use of modern equpmen, spedired kbouw and
oudisandng rigid huls has resumed in a fTrsf Cis, Gredt bdue, lypalon inftoable boat range.


Whafts on Sale
Gs AND M BATTERIES
MA ses on sare this month M20%*0f


ICOM M802 5 5 RADIO
with AuLmatlk Antennma lrr AT-140
04$
ICOT


MAS POXES MEN AND RULERS
A at 20% OFF this mnlho
ax.




DIVE BUDDY BCD SALE
X snmal BCD DD9000
4 Small BCD DDO900
Medum BCD DD9002
Regular pnce LJ4t.
Nw an solde r


riounts valid for June 2008 YvA sedo kt


AM rtIu to know mnre r eisut Basan MWhaer e onl AuthorSed dealer of WV l
uly ratikable bot? Vis Iaand 1atr W.arfd .a. w
St. Thomas, U.S..I. St. Maarten, NA. St. Maarlen, NA. St. Lucia, W.I. Grenada, W.I. Grenada, W.I.
Yacht Haven Grand* Cole Bay Bobbys Marina Rodney Bay Marina St. Georges Grenada Marine
Tel: 340 714 0404 Tea 599544 5310 Tol 5995437119 Tel 75 452 1222 Tel 473 4352150 Tel: 473443 1028
Far. 340 714 0405 FaT 599 544 3299 Fax 599 542 2675 Foa. 758 452 4333 Fos 473 435 2152 Fox 473 443 1038
Prices may vary in St. Thomas, St. Lucia and Grenada as a result of customs charges and environmental levies.
IsadWtrWrdMrn .itiuos-wwiln~trol~o soerlionc................




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