Title: Caribbean Compass
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Permanent Link: http://ufdc.ufl.edu/UF00095627/00014
 Material Information
Title: Caribbean Compass the Caribbean's monthly look at sea & shore
Physical Description: v. : ill. ; 35 cm.
Language: English
Publisher: Compass Pub.
Place of Publication: Bequia St. Vincent and the Grenadines
Bequia St. Vincent and the Grenadines
Publication Date: April 2008
Copyright Date: 2009
Frequency: monthly
regular
 Subjects
Subject: Boats and boating -- Periodicals -- Caribbean Area   ( lcsh )
Yachting -- Periodicals -- Caribbean Area   ( lcsh )
Genre: periodical   ( marcgt )
Spatial Coverage: Saint Vincent and the Grenadines
 Record Information
Bibliographic ID: UF00095627
Volume ID: VID00014
Source Institution: University of Florida
Holding Location: University of Florida
Rights Management: All rights reserved by the source institution and holding location.
Resource Identifier: oclc - 54085008
issn - 1605-1998

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V TOHATSU

Outboards


Let this Tohatsu 4 hp
provide you with the
perfect compact fuel-
efficient power you needle
It's clean for you and clean
for the environment. Small
in size, this 4 hp has an internal
fuel tank built right into the motor
for hassle-free operation.

The 4hp now even comes standard
with built-in external fuel tank
connections.

Simply add a fuel tank and line for
additional fuel capacity for those
longer days out on the water.


The 6 hp motor has
a built-in fuel tank
conveniently located
on top and becomes
ready for cruising quickly
and without taking up
extra space in the boat.

An external fuel fitting also comes
standard with this model to hook
up to a remote tank.

The 'through-the-prop' exhaust is
used to achieve nice, quiet running
conditions.
Budget Marine maintains a large
Inventory of spare parts. If you need
something specific, please contact us
for price and availability.
See www.budgetmarine.com for special
pricing during the month of April.


The 9.8 hp
motor has the
shift lever located
on the front of the
motor for easier
operation.
The air-intake system
has a large volume air
silencer to ensure engine
starting and to suppress air-intake
noise during engine operation.
This motor has a wide
anti-cavitation plate which
effectively restrains the propeller
from cavitating. The large trim tab
helps to achieve effortless steering
at high speeds whilst
also providing corrosion protection.


First priority when
developing these
engines was to make
them lightweight and
compact without
compromising reliability
or the quality perfor-
mance associated with the
Tohatsu brand name. We have
maintained the durable standard
features that Tohatsu owners
appreciate while making
fuel-efficient 4-strokes that are easy
to transport.

These outboards are compact
2-cylinder, SOHC engines that have
been manufactured to comply with
all US EPA 2006 & CARB 2008
(3 star rating) emission regulations.


Otns in theC


CARIBBEAN CMHANDLERIES



BUDGET MARINE s
ANTIGUA BONAIRE CURACAO GRENADA ST. MAARTEN ST. MARTIN ST. THOMAS TRINIDAD


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E-mail: bob@doylecaribbean.com


Barbados
Doyle Sailmakers
6 Crossroads
St. Philip
Tel: (246) 423 4600 Fax: (246) 423 4499
E-mail: andy@doylecaribbean.com


Antigua & Barbuda
Star Marine
Jolly Harbour
Grenada
Turbulence Ltd.
Spice Island Boatyard
St. Lucia
The Sail Loft, St. Lucia
Rodney Bay


Bequia
Withfield Sails and Model Boats
Port Elizabeth
Panama
Regency Marine
Pedro Miguel Boat Club
St. Martin
Route De Sandy Ground
Chantier JMC Marine


Curacao
Kapiteinsweg #4
Netherland Antilles
Puerto Rico
Atlantic Sails and Canvas
Fajardo
St. Vincent
Barefoot Yacht Charters
Blue Lagoon


Dominica
Dominica Marine Center
Roseau
St. Croix, USVI
Wilsons' Cruzan Canvas
Christiansted
Trinidad & Tobago
Soca Sails, Ltd.
Chaguaramas













C A R





C,,M PASS


The Caribbean's Monthly Look at Sea & Shore
www.caribbeancompass.com



St. Croix Calling!
North shore beckons............. 28






St. Maarten's
Heineken
Record setting fleet............... 11

Cuba, Continued...
The route back east.............. 18



Paddleboard

Passage
Guadeloupe to Montserrat.... 30

Angel Falls Foray Welcome Guests
Visiting Venezuela's tepuis.... 24 Birds brighten voyage........... 32



Business Briefs....................... 8 Cruising Kids' Corner.............40
Regatta News.................... 14 Dolly's Deep Secrets ............40
Destinations....................... 18 Meridian Passage.............42
All Ashore... ....................... 24 Cooking with Cruisers..........46
Sailors' Horoscope............. 38 Readers' Forum................ 47
Island Poets......................... 38 What's On My Mind..............51
Cartoons................................ 38 Caribbean Marketplace......52
Cruising Crossword............... 39 Classified Ads .....................54
Word Search....................... 39 Advertisers' Index................54

i , I I I 1 I i1 1 ,1I. I I I h 1. ,11 ,, I ,,11 i ,

Tel:(784) 4573409, Fax: (784) 457 3410, ....i i .......

Editor.. ..............................Sally Erdle
sally@caribbeancompass.com i i i i .
Assistant Editor................... Elaine Ollivierre i
jsprat@carbsurf.com
Advertising & Distribution........Tom Hopman
tom@caribbeancompass.com ,, I. i... I.
Art, Design & Production......Wilfred Dederer ,, ..i. ..l...
wlde@caribbeancompass.com i .
Accounting ...............................Debra Davis 90 49 45 90
debra@caribbeancompass.com ,
Compass Agents by Island: Ti- ..- i .
t.,, ... i .i,,,, ..-LucyTulloch, .
.. .. "
''Ii" i .- , 111 .




xanadumarine@mcnt net




supphed by other companies

ISSN 1605 1998


APRIL
I 6 BVI Spring Regatta, Tortola. www.bvispringregatta.org
6 -26 St. Thomas USVI Carnival. www.vicarnival.com
11 13 Curacao International Kte Festival. www.curacaokites.com
12 Clean-Up Dive, Bonaire
12- 13 Triskell Trophy Regatta, Guadeloupe, www.triskellcup.com
12- 13 Banana's Cup Regatta, Martinique, ycm972q@wanadoo.fr
17 -22 Antigua Classic Yacht Regatta. SEE AD ON PAGE 8
17 3 May St. Maarten Carnival, www.stmaartencarnival.com
19 Virgin Queen Pizza Pursuit Race, BVI. Royal British Virgin Islands Yacht
Club (RBVIYC), tel (284) 494-3286, rbviyc@rbviyc.com, www.rbviyc.net
19 Declaration of Independence Day. Public holiday in Venezuela
20 FULL MOON
22 Earth Day
24 Guadeloupe to Antigua Race. Antigua Yacht Club (AYC),
tel/fax (268) 460-1799, yachtclub@candw.ag, www.antiguayachtclub.com
25 27 Carriacou Maroon Music Festival. www.grenadagrenadines.com/fest.html
25 27 Plymouth Jazz Festival, Tobago. www.tobagojazzfest.com
25 20 St. Barth Film Festival, St. Barts. www.stbarthff.org
27 May 3 41st Stanford Antigua Sailing Week. www.sailingweek.com
28 National Heroes' Day. Public holiday in Barbados
30 Queen's Birthday. Public holiday in Netherlands Antilles.
Windsurf race in Bonaire




MAY

1 May Day/Labour Day. Public holiday in many places
1 Ascension Day. Public holiday in some French and Dutch islands
1 West Marine Atlantic Cup sets sail from Tortola, BVI to Bermuda.
www.carib1500.com
1 -4 Big Drum Festival, Union Island, St. Vincent Grenadines
2 Arrival of loumoulico Carib Canoe Project at Scott's Head, Dominica
2 11 St. Lucia Jazz Festival. www.stluciajazz.org
5 World Environment Day
8 Armistice Day. Public holiday in French West Indies
8 ARC Europe sets sail from Jolly Harbour, Antigua, to Portugal.
www.worldcruising.com
8 12 Canouan Regatta. Canouan Sailing Club (784) 458-8197
9- 11 Anguilla Sailing Festival. www.anguillaregatta.com
9 12 42nd Antigua & Barbuda Sports Fishing Tournament.
www.antiguanice.com/fish
10- 11 BVI Dinghy Championships, RBVIYC
11 Dutch Antilles Windsurf Challenge, Bonaire
11 Mothers' Day, Public holiday in Puerto Rico
11 16 Angostura Tobago Sail Week. www.sailweek.com
12 Whit Monday. Public holiday in many places
19 Clipper Round the World Race stopover at Port Antonio, Jamaica.
www.clipperroundtheworld.com
20 FULL MOON
20 Independence Day. Public holiday in Cuba
21 24 4th Annual Bonaire Jazz Festival. www.bonairenet.com
22 Corpus Christi. Public holiday in many places
22 Emancipation Day. Public holiday in Martinique
23 25 34th Annual Foxy's Wooden Boat Regatta, Jost Van Dyke,
West End Yacht Club (WEYC), Tortola, BVI, tel (284) 495-1002,
fax (284) 495-4184, mvh@surfbvi.com, www.weyc.net
23 25 BVI Music Festival, Tortola. www.bvimusicfest.net
23 27 Around Guadeloupe Race. http://triskellcup.com
24 31 Curacao Dive Festival. www.curacaodive.com
26 Memorial Day. Public holiday in Puerto Rico and USVI
29 June 1 Mount Gay Boatyard Regatta, Barbados. info@sailbarbados.com
30 Indian Arrival Day. Public holiday in Trinidad & Tobago
30 Anguilla Day. Public holiday in Anguilla
30 June 1 4th Zoo Regatta, Gosier, Guadeloupe. www.zoo-regatta.com
TBA Le Combat de Coques Regatta, Martinique. Club Nautique du Marin
(Martinique). tel (596) 74 92 48, fax (596) 74 62 02,
club-nautique-du-marin@wanadoo.fr

All information was correct to the best of our knowledge at the time this issue of
Compass went to press but plans change, so please contact
event organizers directly for confirmation.
If you would like a nautical or tourism event listed FREE in our calendar,
please send the name and date(s) of the event and the name
and contact information of the organizing body to
sally@caribbeancompass.com


Cover: Bequia Easter Regatta 2008
Photos: Wilfred Dederer


















Info


Panama Canal Backlog
On March 20th, Captain Pat Rains reported in The
Log Newspaper (www.thelog.com): "Dozens of cruis-
ing yachts trying to transit the Panama Canal are
being delayed at least four weeks. And because of a
backlog of at least a hundred ships, the scheduling
delays are only expected to get worse."


Owing to a higher than usual number of transiting
ships, the Authority of Panama Canal (ACP) has
begun allowing only six yachts to begin transit through
the canal per day: three starting from the Pacific side
and three from the Caribbean. The ACP is scheduling
yachts only for two-day transits, so they must anchor
overnight in Gatun Lake and down-lock the following


day. He said yachts begin transit only on Mondays,
Wednesday and Fridays finishing only on Tuesdays,
Thursday and Saturdays.
Normally, Rains reports, at the height of cruising sea-
son, about 40 to 60 yachts per week would be transit-
ing, but the new schedule allows for only about 18
yachts per week. Another agent, Tina McBride, told
Rains that all the marinas and yacht clubs on both
ends of the Panama Canal were packed with boats
waiting to transit.
On March 1st, the ACP increased fees for yachts
and ships to transit the canal. Yacht fees went up
about seven percent, and ship fees increased eight
percent. The ACP also announced possible new pilot-
age fees for yachts starting March 1st if certain "defi-
ciencies" were found, such as "inadequate sanitary
facilities" on board (for example, if the boat's head
was not available for use by the pilot) or if the yacht's
line handlers "show an inability to relay the pilot's
instructions."
For more information about the increased fees for
yachts, called "hand lines," visit www.pancanal com
and review Marine Notice to Shipping N- 1-2008.


New Requirements for Cruising US?
In February, Jimmy Cornell's "noonsite" website
(www.noonsite.com/Members/doina/R2008-02-07-1)
received a report about possible new rules affecting
foreign-flagged vessels visiting the USA. According to
noonsite's source, after initial entry into the country,
foreign-flagged yachts must now report to CBP
(Customs and Border Protection, part of the
Department of Homeland Security) each time they
move from one port to another, or even from one
berth or marina to another within one port.
Compass checked the CBP website (http://www.
cbp.gov/xp/cgov) but found no recent news on this
subject. Noonsite suggests that on arrival in the US, all
foreign-flagged yachts should find out from the CBP
officer who clears them what the reporting require-
ments are while sailing in that country. Do any
Compass readers have recent first-hand experience
with this?
Continued on next page


Yachts have been experiencing long waits
to transit the Panama Canal


It
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Continuedfrom previous page
Coke Adds... 11 years
Norman Faria reports: A Florida man who sailed a
yacht into Barbados two years ago was recently sen-
tenced to 11 years in jail on that island. Sixty-one kilos
(134 pounds) of cocaine plus firearms and ammuni-
tion had been found on board.
The yacht according to some reports a
US-registered 30-footer called Leyla was confiscat-
ed. Terry Wayne Moore, 35, also had to forfeit
Bds$57,000 (US$28,500) and US$4,630 cash Barbadian
police say they found in a bag he and another man
were carrying.
According to testimony in a Bridgetown court in
early March, Moore, from Key Largo, retrieved the
bags of the drug from under a holding tank in the
boat's bilge after Barbadian authorities threatened to
do a thorough search of the craft.
Moore had sailed the boat into the Port St. Charles
marina on the northwest tip of Barbados in May 2006,
and then anchored it off St. James parish, also on the
west coast. A day later, he and the other man were
detained. Moore has been on remand in Her
Majesty's prisons in the island since then.
The guns seized were a Glock .40 pistol, and a .357
Magnum. A total of 135 bullets were also recovered. A
Barbados magistrate gave Moore two six-year jail
terms for the firearms, which will run concurrently with
the 11-year drug sentence.
Abandoned Duck Reaches Antigua
Yachting World magazine editor Elaine Bunting
reported on her blog (www.yachtingworld.com/yw/
blog/elaine_bunting.html) on March 14th: "You may
remember the story of Barbary Duck, the Westerly
Corsair abandoned mid-Atlantic in December
because her crew judged her in danger of dismasting.
As many of us suspected at the time, the boat contin-
ued to drift until it reached the other side of the
Atlantic. She was salvaged and taken ashore in
Antigua on 28 February.
"Barbary Duck was abandoned by owners John
and Frances Weller from Northern Ireland when they
discovered cracking of the chainplates. They aban-
doned to a liferaft and were picked up by a Swan
taking part in the racing division of the ARC rally,
which was catching up from astern.
"The yacht continued to float and several other
ARC crews came across it, one at close quarters at
night, when Barbary Duck was unlit....
"When Barbary Duck was found off Antigua she had


not dismasted from the chainplates, as was previously
thought, though by then the top section of the mast
had broken. She had obviously been found and
boarded previously, as a lot of equipment had been
looted. She also sustained topsides damage in the
process of being salvaged.
"This case follows two other yachts abandoned but
not scuttled during the 2006 ARC which later washed
up, one in the Caribbean and the other in the Azores."
John Burnie reported on the search for the Bavaria
35 Arnolf, which was abandoned due to rudder failure
in mid-Atlantic on December 11th, 2006, and arrived
soundly afloat off Anguilla in early March 2007, in the
January 2008 issue of Compass.
What's With the Windjammers?
Norman Faria reported in the November 2007 issue
of Compass: Up to press time in mid-October, efforts


were ongoing to try and get the 60-year-old Florida-
based Windjammer Barefoot Cruises off apparent
financial sandbanks." What s happened since then?
It's hard to find out. Windjammer's once popular
Caribbean fleet of tall ships has not operated since
September of last year. Paul Motter, editor of
CruiseMates (www.cruisemates.com), an online cruise-
ship guide, writes: "It is very hard to find solid legal infor-
mation about Windjammer Cruises because so much
of the company is in the hands of overseas agents in
countries that do not require legal disclosure."
-Continued on next page


Long a part of the Caribbean sailing scene,
windjammers lined the wharf at St. George's,
Grenada, in the heyday of the fleet


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i : rIi I1,- -,, -, i Yankee Clipper,
Polynesia and Mandalay have been held in port and
only one ship in the fleet, the newer Legacy, is report-
edlv leaallv unencumbered. Despite repeated oromis-


es on the company's website, as of this writing,
Windjammer has neither refunded many passengers'
payments for a number of cruises that never hap-
pened, nor scheduled any future cruises.

Cruisers' Site-ings
Long-time cruisers Bernie and Yvonne Katchor are
underway again, and Bernie's new book of cruising
adventures, Around the Next Bend, is due in book-
stores this month. See their website at
www.berniekatchor.com.
The February edition of the Caribbean Sailing
Association (CSA) newsletter reports that the CSA
website is being updated to be even more informa-
tive than ever. Check out the progress at
www.coribbean-sailing.com.
Good Old Boat magazine has recently posted an
all-new website at www.goodoldboat.com. Some of


the major resources offered include the biggest list of
boat owners' associations on the Internet, an enormous
list of marine suppliers, and the ever-popular "fixer-
uppers" page with boats offered for less than US$5,000
and free!

New Carib Canoe Project
Hubert Winston reports: On May 2nd, the loumoulico
Carib Canoe Crossing project launched by the


Dominican Kalinago paddlers are practicing
for May's re-enactment



KARISKO Association in Martinique aims to recreate
the very first arrival of the Kalinago people to the
shores of Dominica.
The re-enactment of the voyage on the May Day
holiday weekend will commemorate how the pre-
Columbian Kalinago people paddled up the


Caribbean chain of islands from South America.
Dominica's indigenous Kalinago tribe has been invit-
ed by KARISKO to send 15 paddlers to help man two
25-man canoes. These "Carib Canoe Warriors", as
they call themselves, have been training every week
in the seas between Marigot and Atkinson in a smaller,
riskier eight-man Carib canoe built by master canoe-
builder Emmanuel "Napoleon" Sanford. (See http://
picasaweb.google.com/mixx777/
CaribCanoeWarriors/. Be
part of the welcoming
team and celebrate in an
old-time Kone Konla
".."r Welcome Feast on May
SD2nd in Scott s Head/
Soufriere. The following
morning, try your hand at
paddling these canoes in
the waters of the bay or
take part in local
Dominican canoe races.
S Dominican historian Dr.
'p. Lennox Honychurch and
two history professors from
University Antilles-Guyane
in Martinique, Thierry
L Etang and Benoit Berard,
will be there to explain the
historical context of
this project.
Yachts are invited to join
the flotilla which will
.... .. accompany the two
canoes from Friday morn-
ing to Friday afternoon
from Grande Riviere in
Martinique to Scott's Head.
All events are free
of charge.
For more information visit www dominicaheritage.
org and hftp://www.karisko org

'Mister Baker', Who Are You?
Will the kind gentleman who recently sent in the
great oven-free boat bread recipe please contact
sally@caribbeancompass.com. I lost your name!
Welcome Aboard!
In this issue of Caribbean Compass we welcome
aboard new advertiser Jordan Boats of the UK on
page 51. Good to have you with us!


CLEAR SKIES FORECASTED FOR THIS SAFE HARBOR
Sen loc MIn41 Cr~~ fn~ pive ~itx. a~OpMna


Ser Boca MariwI Curaqaro's fines privwre bmor has opicnils
I.,r Lkiigc Lb-11,t] *.ulrik the hurricane belt in the prmdinrr
R.Llt: r, 4 Spiura,.h % alcr Bj%. wnu Roca Manrinai is consick-rri
:&~c %.I I he Ifir i inI mI,~ Idf~I .zcrit.hor.i1c', in i he. Caflbbtn-

* ThNL ii. -I dj. cd dcl-IpI on Cutnauit
I 1.in j,] ,i A Tpizirened in Halland-
* .%,,rrirrrK-kLit in I,, Li &1tahs up tn 1541 ft.l 15 ft draft
* W~tjriiI pnwLcr(I2 7 id 2?flq
mCabk TV. ond pok Ic xitrit vMiuibk
* Marina, -1T muititlori VHF r-dwu channel 67 aund amr aililab


I- ' %%I -I N.IJIVIN In dilk k I fig Will llfml% ;n--' 111L %IC
ulI 1~it -xtAin lil. A [lip 1ppftT1pwii[. 14~t.V a, r.C~kd
*,%CFU libCA Mann.] L% .1 011C hirf%-r that olle
24 hours security.

For infonnion on rates and facilities,
ca ll (5 1 0 9 ) 5 N lt-2 59 ) A
T',wu 1-, I' I h,-44 Z 14 A
TRx!i I," Y Oa, I Cu A SO74
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Read in Next Month's Compass:


The Ever-Evolving Culebra Regatta

Amazing Ile a Vache, Haiti

My Boat is Too Ugly to Steal!
and more!


BUSINESS BRIEFS

Bumper Season for Marigot, St. Lucia
The Marina at Marigot Bay, St Lucia, celebrated a bumper 2007/2008 festive sea-
son when it welcomed a record-breaking number of super-yachts and mega-
yachts. Not only did the marina enjoy 100-percent occupancy over the Christmas
and New Year period, but it continued to see a large number of big boats on its
docks well into February.
"The Marina at Marigot Bay became a New Year destination for mega-yacht
owners and charter guests to rival St. Barths and Mustique," said Marina Manager
Bob Hathaway. He was also keen to emphasize that the Marina at Marigot Bay is an
ideal year-round destination, not just a place for the holidays.
Tk, U,,,. Ihl D-, --- Q- - -, -- -m ~in trrr .+ -. - .1, rrnrl Il


to pay a visit to Marigot Bay in February to visit the marina with his fiancee and go
aboard the visiting 208-foot motor yacht, Polar Star, for a tour and chat with captain
Charles DuGas-Standish. The visit afforded the Prime Minister the opportunity to see
first hand the importance of the luxury yacht industry to St. Lucia and to hear feed-
back about some of the issues affecting yacht-based visitors. Prime Minister King,
who attended the Fort Lauderdale International Boat Show in October last year, has
been taking an active interest in yachting concerns.
For more information on The Marina at Marigot Bay see ad on page 26.
St. Maarten's Marine Professional of the Year
Robbie and Michele Ferron report: The Budget Marine Award for St. Maarten's
Marine Professional of the Year 2007 was recently presented to Mike Ferrier.
The marine industry on St. Maarten is attracting more yachts, providing more jobs,
and offering great financial contributions to the island. Every year, many people
work hard in communicating the importance of the industry to the public and gov-
ernment. Budget Marine, being highly involved, is happy to recognize key individu-
als for their contributions, and annually gives an award to a person who has been a
particularly outstanding asset to the industry. Previous winners are Sir Bobby
Velasquez, Ernst Looser, Robbie Gilders, Kevin Gavin and Jeff Boyd.
Budget Marine, in collaboration with the Sint Maarten Marine Trades Association is
particularly pleased to award the Marine Professional of the Year Award 2007 to Mike
Ferrier who has excelled in providing better communication and understanding
between the Sint Maarten government, many local establishments and the marine
industry. Mike, owner of NAPA and a former commissioner in the island government,
has served on the board of the St. Maarten Marine Trades association for three years.
The award was presented on March 5th, during a party hosted by Budget Marine.
The annual party is to open the first day of racing for the Heineken Regatta, spon-
sored by Budget Marine.
For more information on Budget Marine see ad on page 2
Northern Lights Tests Quietest
Northern Lights/Lugger, a world-renowned manufacturer of marine generator sets,
is pleased to report the results of a major marine generator test that included the
world's most prominent builders. The conclusion regarding noise: Northern Lights sets
are the quietest.
In 2007, an independently certified test (by TUV-EPS) was commissioned by Victron
Energy. Marine generator sets were tested at 10kW and below (50 Hz ratings,
1500-3000 RPM).
Of the 19 generator sets tested from the world's pre-eminent manufacturers,
Northern Lights M773LW2 was deemed the quietest, at less than 65 dBA with no
electrical load. The second quietest machine tested was also a Northern Lights -
the M673LD2, at fewer than 66 dBA. Victron Energy notes in the report that "the
sound levels measured should not be seen as absolute values but as relative values,
for which we used the symbol AdBA, showing how much more or less noisy one gen-
erator is compared to another."
The only two Northern Lights tested proved to be the two quietest.
Independent testing proves that the quietest gensets run at 1500 RPM. All Northern
Lights generator sets are built to run at 1500 RPM in their 50 Hz applications (a modest
1800 RPM at 60 Hz). Other key contributors to Northern Lights' quiet design are mounts
which dramatically reduce noise resulting from the transmission of vibration, and sin-
gle-piece, cast-iron expansion tank/exhaust manifolds which minimize engine noise.
Said Puckett, "By using the best possible components, keeping revolutions low and
keeping customer comfort at the forefront, we are able to build generator sets that
are measurably quieter than comparable models."
Northern Lights sound enclosures are one of many options that further customize
Northern Light generator sets.
For the full study visit victronenergy com/generatortest/ For more information on
Northern Lights see ad on page 28
Boat Kits for the Caribbean
If you have ever thought about building your own boat, whether a tender for your
yacht, a day-sailer, powerboat, or even a cruising yacht, UK-based Jordan Boats
can supply a plywood component kit to get you started.
Proprietor Alec Jordan spent much of his childhood in St. Lucia, and after returning
there in December, found a great deal of interest in his five-year-old business. After
checking Geest Line's freight rates, he realized that kits could be delivered duty-
paid at the ports served by Geest (St. Lucia, Barbados, Dominica, St. Vincent,
-Continued on next page














...:- 1-, : : .-,i :. .r: i :,-,:1 Trinidad) at about the same price as shipping to
European destinations.
Jordan works with prominent small-boat designers to provide kits for their designs,
with nearly 60 different designs set up as kits, and several more in preparation. If
one of the current designs does not suit, Jordan can create a new kit for your cho-
sen design. Designers in Jordan's portfolio of kits include Selway Fisher, lain
Oughtred, and Dix Design. Agreements are made with other designers as required.
The kits are constructed using either the stitch-and-tape method, made famous by
the Mirror Dinghy, or clinker ply/glued lapstrake, which simulates the classic clinker
construction. The plywood used for the kits is BS1088 Lloyds Type Approved gaboon/
okoume marine plywood. Kits can also be cut in mahogany or the beautiful sapele
ply at additional cost.
As the kits shipped from the UK include only the plywood parts, Jordan is making
contact with timber suppliers in the Caribbean to supply the other wooden compo-
nents required. Supplies of epoxy, varnish, paint and standard fittings can be
obtained from the local chandlers in the Caribbean. If you want special brass and
gunmetal fittings, Jordan can arrange shipment of these parts from the UK, as well
as stainless steel and silicon bronze fixings.
Jordan's website has a page giving fuller information for Eastern Caribbean cus-
tomers, and much information about building, particularly the clinker ply method. If
you want more information about stitch-and-tape, Jordan has produced a DVD.
For the Caribbean market, the kits are priced in both US dollars and Sterling. Kts
for established designs can normally be landed in the West Indies about four to five
weeks after Jordan receives payment for the order, depending on the
Geest Line schedule. If you can get together with friends to include
more than one kit in an order, significant savings can be
made in the shipping costs.
For more information see ad on page 51.

New Power Yacht for St. Maarten's No Limits
Recently appointed Caribbean representative for Mystic Power Boats in Florida,
yacht broker No Limits Yachts in St. Maarten St. Martin, presented a new power
yacht on March 8th. Members of the local and International press and guests joined
owner Stew Leonard and builder John Cosker aboard the new 70-foot fast power
yacht Carpe Diem to enjoy the last day of the St. Maarten Heineken Regatta.
Mystic Powerboats Inc. was founded in 1996 by John, a race boat pilot, and has
specialized in the design, engineering and construction of high-performance power-
boats. Working with both production boatbuilders and individual owners, the com-
pany has created a wide variety of boats from 60+ mph outboard centre consoles
to 200+ mph turbine-powered offshore catamarans. All models are designed in-
house with a full-time staff of engineers.
The presented yacht is capable of speeds in the 80 mph range while maintaining
madmum comfort and safety.
For more information visit www. NoLimitsYachts. com.

Special Regatta Transport Service
Peters & May and Sevenstar Yacht Transport have announced a new joint venture
to provide specialised logistics for the yacht racing community. This initiative will pro-
vide racing teams and yachting associations with a total logistics package offering
global solutions for yacht transport, spares positioning, refit work and multi-destina-
tion racing programmes.
Jeff Drake, Managing Director of Peters & May Ltd and Richard Kabbers
Managing Director of Sevenstar stated: "Yacht racing programmes are notoriously
complex and time crucial, and their equipment costly and fragile. Efficient logistics
management in this arena requires experience, skill and in-depth industry knowl-
edge. Our new joint service will provide the customer with a service where one
phone call does it all."
For more information contact craig@petersandmay com or info@sevenstar.nl.

Happy Birthday, Horizon!
Horizon Yacht Charters is celebrating its 10th Anniversary with all sorts of unique
Caribbean charter package specials.
For details visit www.horizonyachtcharters.com.

New in Carriacou
Not only does Tyrrel Bay, Carriacou, offer free WiFi to visiting yachts, but a new
laundry has opened next to the Alexis Supermarket. It's open Monday to Saturday
0700 to 1800, offering speedy hot-water wash, dry and fold service. A book and
DVD swap is also offered.

Antigua's Sweet Cry Freedom Festival
In the early 1990s, a music festival was staged in Antigua which became the
model for the various music festivals that have proliferated across the Caribbean.
Between 1993 and 1997 a high-profile, international line-up of who's who in vin-
tage and popular music from across the Diaspora performed at the festival, includ-
ing Arrow, David Rudder, and the reggae ambassadors Third World; dancehall
champions Buju Banton and Beenie Man; reggae crooners Beres Hammond and
Diana King; Creole heavyweight Kassav; plus soca's super-bands Square One,
Atlantik and Burning Flames, among many more.
An integral part of the festival was the presentation of the "Cry Freedom Award",
which was presented in person to Stevie Wonder in 1997. Professor Hilary Beckles
received the award in 2007. Third World, Osibisa, and the Right Honorable Vere
Cornwall Bird Sr., among others, received awards in the past.
The rebirth of Sweet Cry Freedom Festival in May 2007 was well worth the wait.
Title-sponsored by the Ministry of Tourism, from the opening acts Flora Haywood,
Swallow, General P, Etana and Teflon to the current stars of today Macka
Diamond, Freddie McGregor, Barrington Levy, Shurwayne Winchester & Traffik and
Cham dynamic performances by all these artists brought to a climax the 40th
Anniversary of the Stanford Antigua Sailing Week.
It is with great expectations that persons from near and far look forward to seven
days of entertainment surrounding Antigua's Sailing Week 2008, culminating in the
musical climax that is Sweet Cry Freedom Festival '08, scheduled for May 2nd and
3rd. This year, plans are for SCF '08 to be re-located to the English Harbour area -
even more convenient for the regatta-goers to attend!
For more information on Sweet Cry Freedom see ad on this page.

Round the World Race to Make Jamaica Stop
Errol Flynn Marina in Port Antonio, Jamaica, will be buzzing starting May 19th when
the participants in the Clipper 'Round the World Race start rolling in. Ten 68-foot
yachts are racing, including a Jamaican entry. The racers will be enjoying several
days of R&R after their leg from Panama and prior to heading for New York. As this is
their only stopover in the Caribbean, Errol Flynn Marina is honored to host the fleet.
For details on the race visit clipperroundtheworld. com. For more information on
Errol Flynn Marina see ad on page 20.





















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IT'S MUCH MORE
THAN A MARINA: IT'S HOME!

Marina












Over and over again our guests refer to our marina as their "Home"!
Join us this summer and continue to enjoy the hospitality.

WE OFFER:
24 hour security
120 concrete slip berths
Electricity: 220V/ 50amp; 110V/300amps
(single phase and three hase)

Fuel dock and bunkering
Free satellite TV at each slip
Telephone hook-up
Shower facilities
Wireless internet, banks and laundry within the complex
Pick-up and drop-off from major supermarkets
We monitor VHF channels 16 & 79A (alpha American system)
P.O. Box 4540, Airport Road, Sint Maarten, N.A., Caribbean
Tel: 599-5442309 Fax: 599-5443378
Visit our website: www.sbmarina.biz E-mail: reservations@sbmarina. biz


TOBAGO CAYS


MARINE PARK


CELEBRATES TWO


LAUNCHING


The harborside town of Clifton on Union Island in the Grenadines was the site of
two launchingg" on March 8th. The first was the official handing c I ii .
Cays Marine Park's new patrol vessel. The second was the public ............ I
the start of a project aimed at promoting sustainable livelihoods for persons working
in and around the marine park. Both were thanks to the support of the Organization
of Eastern Caribbean States (OECS).


,, = i _. : .... .. .
.: . i I. . .


Above: Ajter the handing-over ceremony, the new park patrol boat goesjor a spin
Below: At the launching of the Sustainable Livelihoods Project, Union Island Cultural
Youth in Action evoke Southern Grenadines' pride


The new park patrol vessel, a center-console Boston Whaler launch with a high
bimini top, is powered by twin 200-horsepower Mercury outboards. This fast vessel
will enable TCMP rangers to manage the day to-day operations of the park, including
law enforcement, more efficiently. Regular patrols are now done from 6:OOAM to
6:00PM, with staff working toward eventual round-the-clock patrols.
Following the '; -li; --r -fthe patrol boat from the OECS to the TCMP was the
formal launching I 11. I Cays Sustainable Livelihoods Project. This is a three
year project aimed at providing environmentally friendly employment opportunities
for low income households in the Southern Grenadines. The project is expected to
reduce unsustainable livelihood practices in the TCMP by promoting sustainable
alternative livelihoods, i,. I .. .... .. .tive impacts on the natural resources
of the Tobago Cays. I1. I .- i.... I by the OECS Protected Areas and
Associated Livelihoods (OPAAL) Project, and will also benefit from in-house TCMP
financial sources, and in-kind contributions from the private sector.
At the launching, TCMP Chairman Fr. Andrew Roache noted that those living in or
near a protected area are best suited to protecting it. Parliamentary Representative
Terrence Ollivierre added that the Southern Grenadines community must have a
feeling of ownership for the park to motivate them to protect it by earning their live
lihoods sustainably.
S1,. I .. ,, .... 1 i Livelihoods I ,- i1, st in a series to be under
t.i .. ... ... -i ..... i mitries as pa. I ii 'i I Project,which is funded
by the Global Environmental Fund, the Organization of American States and the
Fond Franeais pour 1'Environment Mondial.













I IST. l MAARTEN l HEINEKEN RE-.1I II20


kecozd- leakingg



28th dition


by Stephane Legendre
Coming to St. Maarten for the largest sailing event of the Caribbean is always
something a sailor looks forward to. The obvious questions every visitor has
in mind are: How many boats this year? Am I going to see some exciting new
sailing machines? Will there be talented crews from which we can learn by observing
maneuvering skills at buoy roundings or starts?
Sin thiE year I was not let down, as the organizers announced 280 boats regis
1i i March 6th through 9th event. This was a new record number of entries,
of which 128 were rented bareboats. That means all participants, whatever their
sailing skills or financial means, are allowed to really compete. Boats ranged from
the smallest "beach cats" to Peter Harrison's superb 115-foot ketch Sojana, a Bruce
Farr design from the UK. More than ten Swans, half a dozen Beneteau 40.7s, as
many J/boats and five Gunboat catamarans, among others, turned up to compete.
Difficult to remember all the beautiful boats I saw!
"It's great to have a record number: it shows we're doing something right," said
Robbie Ferron, the chairman of the regatta's steering committee. "But our emphasis
has never been about getting bigger, only better. And I like to think we're doing that
as well."
Being familiar with sailing events, I always think of the organizational effort
involved, in terms of coordination both on land and on the water. From what I could
observe, there were very few complaints on the water this year, .111. .. i. . .... ing
around 20 class starts each day is not easy! Providing exciting ...... i -. in
three different locations ashore, with good water-taxi service, was another challenge,
but a very efficient group of volunteers took care of everything with extreme avail
ability and smiling friendliness, right through the regatta's duration. Renowned
musicians from the Caribbean entertained the crowds each evening: Intwine from
Sint Maarten, Alison Hinds from Barbados, El A Kru from Antigua and, to conclude
on the Sunday, the famous 1. .. I. ... Jamaica (Mister Lover himself, they say...).
The St. Maarten Yacht ChI. .- 11. strategic place to be for more than one rea
son. First, this was the meeting place for everyone. Even if you were not expecting
anyone, you were sure to bump into a friend at some stage and enjoy a beer
(Heineken of course) and good food. Second, and more important, were the bridge
opening times and leaving/entering boats. Even if motor yachts are not your cup
of tea, watching those mega-yachts and observing their captains' skill coming
through tl- 1 ; 1. where little space is left on each side, is quite something. Even
more :.. -1,,,. I us was to admire the racing machines coming through, their
relaxed crews saluting us warmly as they entered. Thats an example of the
Heineken Regatta conviviality.
Now a little about the races:
Weather conditions were excellent, with sunshine and wind. Breezes were stron
.t -1 the Friday, reaching 25 knots and slowly diminishing through the event
1 i for everyone.
On Thursday the6th, the I .. I i ..... Commodores Cup" wa:-. 1 ;l- t the
regatta and did not count: I. I... .I ilts. [See this month's I .." .. 'on
page 14for a report.]
Friday's Round the Island Race started at Simpson Bay and finished inside Great
S.., ... 1 ...1. course, very exciting, followed by a wonderful party on
hih I -1 i I I, i.1 promenade.


Saturday's race-course was from a Simpson Bay start to the Anguilla Channel
buoys and b-1 -1- t- "-r-t P-- -n th- FrT-nch side of the island for a French-touch
fete on the i .. ... I.. i i .. i .
On Sunday the 9th, boats started at Marigot Bay and sailed into the Anguilla
Channel. After the finish at Simpson Bay, the closing party and prizegiving ceremo
ny were held at Kim Sha beach.
The CBBS Cups, presented to the high scorers in the Caribbean Big Boat Series,
went to Sam Fleets Swan 601, Aquarius, in the Racing category and to Sojana in the
Racing/Cruising class. Phil Otis's Cyclades 50, BVI Yacht Charters, was named the
Top Bareboat Charter Boat in the fleet. The Spirit and Style Award went to Richard
Woodridge and the crew of Triple Jack who selflessly invited aboard fellow Multihull
1 class competitors from the trimaran Tryst, after their boat was dismasted early in
the regatta. The Heineken Fun prize went to the crew of the bareboat Something Hot,
a Beneteau 473. And the winner of the St. Maarten/Saint Martin Cup for Most
Worthy Performance Overall was awarded to Benny Kelly and the crew of the TP 52,
Panthera, which dominated the tough Spinnaker 1 class with a perfect series of five
consecutive wins.
Happy organizers, competitors and public from both sides of the island were the
conclusion to this 28th edition of the St. Maarten Heineken Regatta.
Even if you do not race, coming and enjoying the Heineken Regatta weekend is
something any yachtsman cruising the Caribbean should experience at least once.
Come and join in 2009!


The big Farr ketch Sojana on her way to winning first overall in the
Caribbean Big Boat Series' Racing/Cruising Class at St. Maarten Heineken 2008


www.caribbeancompass.com


f SmI atsISillWin Ia













^^BEUIA EASTER REGATTA 2008


RECORD-BREAKINIG


YACHT TURN-OUT


Dare we say that despite the sea surge, it was...
really swell?
Despite an unusually large ground sea and a resul
tant unfounded rumor that this year's Bequia Easter
Regatta .... 1. n be cancelled, a record-breaking
number I ..i.. in the international yacht division
and neck-and-neck racing in the famous Bequia dou
ble-enders made this year's Bequia Easter Regatta one
of the best ever! And aside from that ground sea, it was
brilliant sailing weather from March 21st through
24th. One race a day made up the three-race regatta,
with a fun-filled Lay Day included, of course.
Forty-five yachts were divided into four classes, and
the turnout of 11 in the increasingly popular J/24
Class was a new high for a one-design keelboat class
in a southern Caribbean regatta. Although J/24s
came from Trinidad & Tobago, Grenada, Barbados and
Bequia, St. Lucian J/24s dominated the top three
places. The victory of Attitude's very young crew, led by
Benjamin Todd, was well deserved.
In the Racing Class, former Bequia resident Richard
Szyjan put his local knowledge to good use to cop top
place with three bullets in a keenly competitive fleet
of mainly Martinique-based boats. The Grenada
based Hobie 33's win was in a class that included
seven Surprises.
In the two Cruising Classes, boats came from the
USA, Canada, Antigua, Grenada, Barbados, Trinidad,
the UK and Germany.
Cruising Cl .-- I .- .. 11 I etit Careme and
Bloody Mary .i i ... I. .,. I i places on Days
One and Two, and then Jaystar climbing from a sixth
and a third place to take first in the last race. After a
race from Admiralty Bay to Friendship Bay and back,
and then a circumnavigation of Bequia, did the final
around-the-buoys course present different challenges?
i( ...... I .1- .., ets in the Monday race. With
H(. I' .. ...... ...I the last race with two firsts
and Appleseeds right behind with two seconds, Kula
grabbed away the top spot and the Antigua-based
schooner Samadhi took second, while Appleseeds and
Hot Chocolate had to settle for third and fourth respect
tively. Nevertheless, the last day's results weren't
enough to shake Hot Chocolate and Appleseeds out of
the top slots overall in this class.
Although it didn't count in the series, a Single
Handed Race on the Easter Sunday Lay Day attracted
an impressive 16 solo skippers to race around the
island. They were divided into CSA Rated and Non
CSA Rated classes. The :. .1i I ,1,. - Rated combat
saw Hallucine skipper i i i1 Ship's Nicolas
Gillet- T-;;;;- ; th- i=1.1-l in two hours, 11 minutes
and 17 I I 1 I .- than 15 minutes later by


Mountain Top Water, Tradewinds Cruise Club, the
Frangipani Hotel, Windward Island Plantation and C.
K. Greaves, plus all business and private donors, and
all the hardworking Sailing Club volunteers who
made the 27th Annual Bequia Easter Regatta such a
huge success.
Continued on page 34


Above: The J/24 Class, established at Bequia Easter
Regatta's 2005 event, attracted 11 enthusiastic
regional competitors



Right: Trinidad's renowned Rawle Barrow at the helm of
Cruising Class 1 overall winner Petit Careme


Yann Lecam on Sonadio 3, culminating in a tie on cor
rected time for first place.
All yacht races were smoothly run by Race Officer
James Benoit and Wayne Frank from Grenada, assist
ed by Rawle Sealy of the Barbados Yacht Club.
The Bequia Sailing Club would like to thank their
main sponsors Heineken (St. Vincent Brewery), Mount
Gay and Pepsi (Bottlers Ltd. St. Vincent), the SVG
Ministry of Tourism, Youth and Sports, Digicel,


Newport
*' Aarhtus

Yacht at Rest, M ind at Ease PortEverglades Southampton
Freeport Cherbourg
Martinique La Rochelle
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YACOr
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DYT USA DYT Newport R.I. DYT Martinique W Y
Telephone: + 1 954-525-8707 Telephone: +1 401 439 6377 Telephone: + 596 5967415 07 WORLD LASS YACHT L TI
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I BEQUIA EASTER REGATTA 2008 1:


Things 10 I in


Double-Enders' Class 7!
by Orbin Olivierre
Easter Regatta, what ah slam! Two days before, all boat registered. In de 28-foot class, we got Bluff,
boat sailin', trying' dis an' testing' dat but de forecast look Confusion, Braveheart, Cloudy Bay an' Spank; in Class
like it go' dampen tings. Dey say look out for 14 to 6 is Iron Duke, Trouble an' Limbo Dance; Class 5A is
17-foot swells an' gusty winds Thursday night through Tornado, Nerissa J; 5B is Shamu, More Worries,
Friday. But Thursday night come an' gone an' ah ain't Shannalou, Dem Say an' Divine. Class 1, 2 an' 4 is boat
see nothing' more dan a little ground swell in Lower Bay. from Canouan, Mayreau an' Bequia an' dem name too


Well, we got 45 1.t 9 it- 1 ih record number, much fo' me to write.
Friday morning .1. i ... I i.. breeze nice. Start 10:30, triangle off Paget Farm, two laps an' ah
Saturday is double-ender day, start at Friendship, sausage. But boy, dem big boat start wid at T-.; ;r
finish off Paget Farm. Good breeze an' clear sky, 28 to Hope Rock mark an' down. Bluff an' ....




| e- d Le r M M Tylaska L- WVA


fighting' fo' de lead. Well, yo' know Confusion does go
downwind like ah train, but today, dem boat got
plenty steam. Dem burnin' ah lot ah energy, pumpin'
jib an' main on de reach to Adams mark. Upwind dey
come, Confusion in de lead but not fo' long. Bluff tek
over. She say yo' had yo' turn, my turn now. She get
in front an' stay in front to de finish. Confusion second
an' Cloudy Bay third.
Sunday, weather nice, breeze nice, may de best man
(or boat) win. Start Friendship, down West Cay, tri
angle in Admiralty Bay an' end off Hamilton Point. Dey
say de best man win so Blufftek de honours, Confusion
second an' Braveheart third. Ah forget to mention dat
Perseverance join de fleet today.
Monday reach. Wind ah bit lighter an' de sun hot like
hell (dem preacher say down dere real hot but ah don't
believe dem because ah don't t'ink anybody ever go an'
come back!). Well, dem start
downwind to West Cay, Cloudy
S Bay in de lead. Dey turn de cay
leave dem rest bundle up under
dey. Up de track to Semple Cay
mark, all dem boat gone leave
Bluff, like if she draggin' fish-
pot. Ah swear to God she hook
I ...'"- ah say to
S today!
SBut not to be. She get she act
together. Dem rest boat gone:
she tack an' come to de shore
an' leave dem goin' south. When
dem come back, all boat togeth
er what ah race! On de road
line wid vehicle. People fo' so.
Everybody shoutin' an' whis
tlin'. I in de boat so ah can't tell
who backin' who. But ah know
ah lot ah bettin' goin' on: some
body go' cry later! Tack fo' tack,
dem boat go round de Semple
Cay mark making' room fo' each
other. T'ings hot today!
Downwind now an' ah fight
back up to de Hamilton mark
an' what ah fight it was. Ah
can't explain it on paper, only
Swid me mouth. But Bluffwin,
beating' out Cloudy Bay by ah
nose! Ah could tell yo', is one
ah de best races an' closest
finishes ah have ever seen. An'
dat's ah fact.
Continued on page 41


Main photo: Boats from Classes 1 and 2 demonstrating
the traditional sprit rig's ability to windward
Inset left: Wayne Gooding's pretty Confusion placed
second overall in Class 7


A


LifeL 5 aUR-BAs *a AaiPntAW Oran xantrex 0IS" aar)- Iu















REGATTA


NEWS



Sunshine and Swans Love Budget Marine
Valentine's Regatta
The 16th Annual Budget Marine Valentines Regatta
held February 16th and 17th saw 20 boats racing in
four classes in perfect weather on the outskirts of Five
Islands Harbour, located next to Jolly Harbour,
Antigua. Jolly Harbour Yacht Club once again hosted
the regatta, which was sponsored for the 16th year by
Budget Marine Caribbean Chandleries. "The boats,
including three big Swans who promise to return with
friends, were a tremendous sight, and the thought of
up to six Swans battling it out next year is awesome."
reports JHYC Commodore Brian Turton.
The Club's Youth Development Programme was
helped with ECS2,000 raffle money raised during the
Regatta Evening, which over 200 people attended at
Jolly Harbour Golf Club. JHYC, already working with


resented the talent of Antigua (Stan Pearson/Neil
Forrester on Deneb) and that of Guadeloupe (Albireo
was skippered by John Burnie). The racing never
lacked excitement, and the local crowd was delight-
ed by the Antigua win.
In Racing Two Class, Shawn Malone on Likkle Hugo
won over Bernie Wong's High Tension b-mobile and
Sven Harder s Flying Tiger. In constant close combat in
Cruising Class, Colin Jones' Cydia took the honours.
However, the most competitive class was Cruiser
Racer Class in which very close and mixed results pro-
duced an unlikely winner for those who believe that
races are won by equipment and not by sailing skills.
The ten-boat class included many modern designs
with carbon sails, carbon masts and the newest
equipment. But the winner was a long-keel boat with
an aluminum mast and sails past sell-by date, made
by a little-known sailmaker. The class and overall win-
ner was the Rhodes Bounty (41 feet long with a
27-foot waterline) Sunshine, whose skilled crew and
skipper Hans Lammers repeated previous regatta
wins. Second in this class was Geoffrey Pidduck in Biwi
Magic, and Rick Gormley, the modest sailor from Jolly
Harbour with only a few years of racing under his belt,
came in third on Elethea.
Three races were run on each day, giving a total of
six to count. All races were windward-leeward with an
offset buoy. Race officer Stephen Parry from the
Solent directed the racing, and Will Rudd would have
done the protests if there had been any. Brian Turton


The Swans... were a tremendous sight, and the thought of up to six Swans battling it out next year is awesome'


the Junior Achievers Club, is now actively involved
with the Antigua Duke of Edinburgh Award Scheme
with plans to take children to Guadeloupe and
Barbuda this spring.
In Racing One Class, a battle was fought between
the two Swan 56s Deneb and Albireo. The crews rep-






Sea Serices
SI-I PCHA DLER


led an onshore events team that produced lively par-
ties. At the prizegiving, Budget Marine Sponsor spokes-
man Robbie Ferron explained how Budget Marine was
particularly enthused to sponsor racing that is con-
stantly interesting, challenging and still easily manage-
able for Caribbean sailors.


Double Bullets Hit Target in Budget Marine
Commodore's Cup
As a prelude to the 28th St. Maarten Heineken
Regatta, the Commodore's Cup race filled seven class-
es with 47 boats and kicked off the Heineken action on
February 6th, in St. Maarten, Netherlands Antilles.
In staunch easterly winds of 25 knots, the sailing was
spirited and images memorable. There was Elandra,
the Beneteau First 40.7, wiping out at the leeward
mark and struggling with a spinnaker takedown as
many of her competitors slipped past, and MAD IV,
the Grand Soleil 50, suffering the same mishap with
her kite flailing away at the masthead. No one who
saw it will forget the sight of the Melges 24 French
Connection in a near-knockdown with her big red
asymmetric spinnaker in the water as her crew scram-
bled to windward to try and get her back upright!
But no crew had more of a handful than the team
aboard the J/109 Vrijgezeilig, which faced not one
but two fire drills: a spinnaker that exploded into three
sections and, worse, a man-overboard situation when
a crewman went into the drink after yet another
broach. Happily, the soaked sailor was swiftly recov-
ered and Vrijgezeilig resumed racing.
In order to keep the carnage to a minimum, the
race committee chose to conduct a pair of races,
rather than the three originally scheduled. Typically,
before and after the brief, passing squalls, there were
patches of light air and holes in the breeze, with plenty
of opportunities for substantial gains for savvier crews.
Several teams proved they were at the top of their
games, winning their respective divisions with a pair of
victories: in Spinnaker 1 Benny Kelly's TP 52, Panthera,
stood atop the field with consecutive bullets; in
Spinnaker 2, Clay Deutsch's perennial campaigner,
the Swan 68 Chippewa, matched the performance
with a straight-set victory. Carlo Falcone's plywood
rocket, Caccia Alla Volpe, won the 11 -boat Spinnaker
3 class with a first and a second. Arnaud de Meillac's
A40, sailing styl'caraibes, recorded the same score to
win Class 4, narrowly beating Sergio Sagramoso's
Beneteau 40.7, Lazy Dog. In other action, the division
winners in the remaining three Commodore's Cup
classes were also decided by crews who posted a
pair of victories: Robert Armstrong's J/100 Bad Girl in
Spinnaker 5; Clive Llewellyn's MAD IVin Spinnaker 6;
and lan Hope-Ross's Beneteau First 36s7 Kick 'em
Jenny in Spinnaker 7.
World Champion Wins Inaugural Casa De Campo
Sponsor Challenge
Showing the match race skill that led to his being
crowned as the reigning World Champion, Team
Pindar's lan Williams from Great Britain has won the
Dominican Republic's first Casa de Campo
Sponsor Challenge.
lan and his team of Denis Cartier, Sue Harvey and
Mick Byrne bested US Virgin Islands native and Alinghi
alumnus Peter Holmberg in an exciting first-to-three-
points series held on February 15th in the harbor at the
Casa de Campo Resort. Also assisting lan in the prac-
tice rounds were Jim Read, Jose Rodriguez, and
Eduardo Otero. These six and six others racing with
Holmberg attended a match race clinic in the morn-
ing held at the Casa de Campo Yacht Club, then fol-
lowed theory with practice out in the club's J/24s.
While the scores went three-to-one in Williams' favor,
the racing was close throughout as these two veter-
ans of the World Match Racing Tour sparred in a tight
course area set by PRO Pete Lawson and his team at
the mouth of the Casa de Campo Marina. Conditions
were perfect with shifty eight- to 12-knot tradewinds
providing plenty of opportunity for close action. This
action was a little too close at times, with collisions
occurring between boats, rocks and marks.
-Continued on next page


2 S Sea Se lces
I;T4 rue i ncji Oiagog Par1!e Snman 97200 F orr do Fonie MARTINIQUE FWI -TO +'5015"TO2I 3513C L. -71JTI C)UE












Continued from previous page
Holmberg led in the first beat of the second match
but then ran hard aground on a rock off the breakwa-
ter, allowing Williams to sail off to his second win in the
series. In the critical third match, Holmberg fought
back to lead Williams around the first mark by a
length, but then Williams touched the mark in his
rounding, prompting umpire Dobbs Davis to give a
penalty to the Briton, who could not close the gap
enough to try and offset the foul. And in the fourth
and final match, it was Holmberg's turn again for con-
tact, this time surging on a wave while chasing
Williams back to the start to hit the transom of the
Deutsche Bank boat, prompting a penalty for
Holmberg.
"This was a great start towards building interest in
match racing here," said World Match Racing Tour
director Scott MacLeod, who was providing
shoreside commentary.
"It was great to have this opportunity to put on this
exhibition of match race sailing in this fantastic place,
and I hope this starts a trend towards more interest
and events," said Williams.
Holmberg, too, was supportive of the efforts made
by CCYC Commodore Gianfranco Fini to organize this
exhibition match as part of the larger Casa de
Campo Regatta, which started the next day. "I hope
this shows the people here in the Dominican Republic
how exciting match race sailing can be, how accessi-
ble it is to spectators, and hope that this will grow into
more events in the future," said Holmberg. "There is
tremendous potential here."
Sweethearts of the Caribbean Draws Classics
and Wannabes
The Sweethearts of the Caribbean Regatta was
raced out of Soper's Hole, Tortola, BVI, on February
16th and 17th, hosted by the West End Yacht Club
www.weyc.net. Mike and Di Krk, the relentless orga-
nizers of this fun weekend event did a great job. With
.a *


32 entries, there was a day of schooner and single-
handed racing and a day of Classic Boat (boat
design more than 30 years old) and Classic Wannabes
(boat design more than 20 years old) racing, along
with double-handed racing. Class winners were:
Schooners 46 to 60 feet: Kai Kanani, Todd Duff
Schooners 61 to 100 feet: Liberty, Robin Pitts
Singlehanders: Kahuli, Tracy Obert
Classics 26 to 34 feet: Frequency, Ryan Walsh
Classics 35 to 45 feet: Rascal, Adrian Sinton
Classics 46 to 60 feet: Rainbow Maker,
Vincent Barnett


Classics 61 to 100 feet: Liberty, Robin Pitts
Classic Wannabees: Cayenne III, Tony Sanpere
Couples: Wildfire, John Hayes
For full results visit www vistandpoint com/content/
view/890/35/.
Inaugural Grenada Classic Yacht Regatta
West Indies Events, the organizer of the first Grenada
Classic Yacht Regatta, is pleased with the first edition
held February 22nd in the waters surrounding the
Spice Island, and expects that next year the number
of entries will be more than five!
Jan Roosens, who started the Classic Regatta in St.
Maarten, has partnered with Fred Thomas in Grenada


Raindancer in Sunday's race from St. David's, on her
way to collect the Perseverance Trophy at St. George's


to set up this new event. Jan said that everything
went smoothly and sailors had a lot of fun.
Kenny Coombs, organizer of the Antigua Classic
Yacht Regatta, which now has around 60 partici-
pants, recalled having only six or seven entries at the
first edition of that event each regatta has to start
somewhere! Coombs was in Grenada as advisor to
Grenadian James Benoit, who was the Race Director
of the first Grenada Classic.
The official opening party and skipper's briefing took
place at the Grenada Yacht Club on February 21st,
and the yachts were hosted at Camper & Nicholsons'
Port Louis Marina in St. George's Lagoon, where the
award giving party was also held. On Saturday the
boats raced to St. David's Harbour on Grenada's
south coast, where BelAir Plantation and Shipwrights
hosted lunch and an evening barbecue while a live
band entertained sailors and locals. Another key
sponsor was the Maritime School of the West Indies.
Crowds followed the regatta action from Grand
Anse Beach and other viewpoints, while a bareboat


charter catamaran with sailing enthusiasts came all
the way from St. Lucia to enjoy the race.
With two classes and four special trophies, virtually
everyone was a winner. Fred Thomas's 1962, 53-foot
yawl Apollonia won Classic Class and the Spirit & Style
Trophy, and Ivan Jefferis' 1889, 44-foot gaff cutter
Thalia won Vintage Class, Most Photogenic and
Overall. John Whitsett's 1979, 76-foot schooner
Raindancer took away the Perseverence Trophy and
Mike Jerrold's century-old Lilymaid won Best
Dressed Crew.
The next Grenada Classic Yacht Regatta will be
held from February 19th through 22nd, 2009. For more
information visit www. ClassicRegatta com.































The St. Lucia Yacht Club celebrated that island's
Independence Day, February 22nd, by resurrecting
the traditional Prime Minister's Cup Race, initiated in
the time of the late Sir John Compton. Using a new
trophy for the occasion, it was re-titled the Sir John
Compton Memorial Trophy with the kind consent of
Lady Janice Compton, who graciously agreed to
present the trophy at the prizegiving on completion of
the race at the SLYC.
Along with this annual event it has long been an
intention to race to Diamond Rock off the southern
end of Martinique. Diamonds International was pre-
pared to sponsor the race in order to produce an
annual regional sailing event.
A three-part event ensued: A race/cruise to Le Marin,
Martinique, from St. Lucia's Rodney Bay, starting at
10:00AM on the 22nd and docking in the huge marina
at Le Marin on arrival. The combined second and third
races started on the 24th at 10:00AM using the Friday's
finish line as a starting line. The second race was the
return to Rodney Bay via Diamond Rock. The "finish" of
Race Three, the Le Marin to Diamond Rock leg, was
self-timed, creating a "line honours" race for the fastest
yacht to reach this point irrespective of handicap.
-Continued on next page


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i-n: : Rodney Bay to Le Marin,
was Bernard Johnson's 52-foot Morgan, Breezeaway.
Race Two, from Le Marin back to Rodney Bay via
Diamond Rock was won by Edgar Roe on the J/24

i*UIIBMEIEir--


Berard Johnson, center, and his Breezeaway crew
accepted the Compton and Diamond trophies at the
St. Lucia Yacht Club



Loose Cannon. Race Three, the Le Marin to Diamond
Rock dash for Line Honours was won by Breezeaway
with a time of 1 hour, 23 minutes, 30 seconds.
The Sir John Compton Memorial Trophy 2008 was pre-
sented by Lady Janice to Bernard Johnson of
Breezeaway. Johnson also accepted the Diamond
Dash Trophy 2008, presented by Sharon Leonce-
Valmont of Diamonds International. Other sponsors
included Peter and Company and Rain Forest Sky Ride.
For more information visit www.stluciayachtclub. com.

Jet-Ski World Championship Held in Guadeloupe
St6phane Legendre reports: The 11th annual running
of the Karujet event took place from February 28 to
March 2nd, at Viard Beach, Petit Bourg in the Basse
Terre district of Guadeloupe. This event consists of
three competitions:
Freestyle competition, leading up to the
world championship.
Amateur race, using the same itinerary as the pro-
fessionals, but shorter courses.
World championship for professionals and experi-
enced amateurs.
The world's best jet-ski freestylers gave a demonstra-
tion on the Thursday evening, and the freestyle com-
petition took place at the Pointe-a-Pitre downtown
harbor on the Friday evening. Many local spectators
showed up and were impressed by what could be
done with water bikes. The favorite, and also last
year's winner, was Lee Stone of the USA, followed by
the Italian Valerio Calderoni. Placing third was a pretty


YANINARF


young girl from Russia, Katharina Kolotnova.
Friday started with a very serious pilot's briefing, dur-
ing which safety recommendations were many, owing
to the very adverse weather conditions: 30 knots of
wind, gusting rain squalls at 40, accompanied by a
. ... ...



























three-metre swell in Les Saintes Channel. Important
security measures were taken by both local authorities
and race security teams, and they proved efficient as
no major mishaps were reported at the end of the
three days.
The Friday start line was at Gosier Beach, where
spectators gathered to see the wonderfully noisy
machines. Professionals had to finish the 120-kilometre


ettrung aur Lune at woruajec-sKi cfUmptlosrup
in Guadeloupe

course and the amateurs a 68-kilometre course. Less
than an hour was needed to complete the race for
those monsters, which seem to jump from one wave
to the other. There were mechanical failures and
physical injuries, but both mechanics and doctors


FRED MARINE


were on hand to solve the problems.
Saturday was the long race that rounded Basse
Terre. Those of us with sailboats would need a good
day to do this, whereas the machines took less than
two hours. Just another world!
The Sunday epilogue took place off the Viard Beach
for a circuit race, cheered on by 30,000 spectators
(compared to 15,000 last year) who were also enjoy-
ing the beach parties and the many free activities the
organizers provided. Spectacular again and I must
say, for someone who doesn't know much about this
sport, very impressive.
The overall winner for the amateurs was Bruno
Vaitilingon from Guadeloupe, brother of last year's win-
ner, Davy Vaitilingon, who this year broke his jet ski the
first day and had to retire from the entire competition.
The World Championship winner was Cyrille Lemoine
from France, who also won two years ago.
This event was honored by the presence of the jet
ski world federation president and Mauro Ravenna,
famous promoter of international events in
offshore racing.
Eric Paulin and Jacques Boucher, the co-organizers
of the Karujet event, are pleased and have plans for
the future, with one of their goals being to have more
participants from other Caribbean islands. This year
nine countries and islands were represented: Italy,
Russia, USA, Spain, Hungary, Germany, France,
Martinique, and Guadeloupe.
Come and join the party next year. Even if you are
not keen, it is really fun to see!
For more information visit www.karujet com.

Teams Race for Charity in St. Maarten Heineken
There are countless ways to enjoy the St. Maarten
Heineken Regatta. From beach cats and bareboats to
Grand Prix racers and multihulls, this annual Caribbean
festival of yachting has a niche for every sailor. For a
couple of special crews aboard the Fa J
and the Beneteau Oceanis 473, Team -: :: -
event provided another opportunity. It gave them the
chance to race for a grander purpose, and use the
regatta to raise funds for great causes.
Take Team WAVE (Women Against Violence
Everywhere) aboard Synergy, the all-women team
based in Curagao, which came together for the first
time last October for a regatta in Bonaire. Team lead-
er Lea de Haas said the 14-member crew "had much
to learn" about the 49-footer, which was built in 1974.
"Everything was new," she said. "We hadn't trained
before and it was challenging learning a boat with
several headsails and an asymmetric spinnaker.
Luckily, the winds were light. But the group was so
enthusiastic and no job was too big for anyone. It was
in Bonaire that we became a team. And we had such
a great time and learned so much, that we decided
to do the 2008 St. Maarten Heineken Regatta."
But de Haas says Team WAVE's goals go beyond
their personal aims. "The idea was to do the Heineken
for our own fun but also to raise money for a group of
very young teenage girls in Curagao who are preg-
nant, homeless and out of school. Kas Bruder Pius is an
organization that takes care of these girls by giving
them a place to live and assisting in their education so
they can learn a profession and take care of their
child." One member of the Team WAVE crew works at
Bruder Pius, which is totally dependent on donations
and volunteers. The Nagico Marine Insurance
Company has helped out with a new headsail for
Synergy. Other sponsors include Premier Management
Partners, HBN Law, DAE, the Curacao Tourist Bureau,
Swissport, and the MCB Bank.
Team WAVE sailed Synergyin the Spinnaker 6 class.
Weather conditions were heavy, with gusts regularly up
to 23 knots and sometimes reaching 47 knots. Rain...
Continued on next page


Guadeloupe F.W.I.


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Mechanics and Electricity Genuine parts Yanmar & Tohatsu High pressure cleaners 150/250bars
Boat Maintenance Basic spare parts (filters, impellers, belts) Electrical tools
Engine diagnosis Filtration FLEETGUARD Diverse hand tools
Breakdown service 24/7 Anodes,Shaft bearings Vacuum cleaner for water
Haulout and hull sand blasting Electric parts, batteries Scaffolding
Equipment for rent Primers and Antifouling International
Technical shop Various lubricants

LEAVE YOUR BOAT IN SKILLED HANDS


I


-Y--Y~Y-L-


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:,I-:i- -, ill i ll...i :ni n :i the deck of
Synergy and the team as well! Team WAVE was the
only all-women crew in their class. Team WAVE fin-
ished 12th in class and can look back on a very suc-


So it seemed kind of natural to identify homeless ani-
mals and find them good homes. And it just took off
from there."
Last year, Sochrin's Beneteau was covered with
stickers from the 27 sponsors who now back Team


Girls just wanna have serious fun. Team WAVE from Curaqao raced the Farn 49 Synergy
in Spinnaker Class 6 in St. Maarten to raise funds for homeless pregnant teens


cessful event in their effort to raise money for young
teen mothers.
For more information, or to make a donation, con-
tact Charlotte Hartmans van de Rijdt at charlofte@
premier-mp com.
Another sailor who used the St. Maarten Heineken
Regatta as a launching pad for good deeds was
Connecticut yachtsman Jeffrey Sochrin, who this year
sailed his fifth Heineken. Sochrin competes in the
bareboat class with his mates from the Milford Yacht
Club, and he always calls his entry Team Goldendog.
Of course, there's a story behind the name.
"It started with a pretty simple notion," Sochrin said.
"We wanted to sail competitively, but with a cause.
I'd always wanted a Golden Retriever and I ended
up rescuing and adopting a dog back in the States.


Goldendog (for more on the program, check out their
website at www.teamgoldendog.org). In addition to
working with the Yankee Golden Retriever Association,
they always try to address the problem of stray ani-
mals on St. Maarten, an island Sochrin and friends
have come to respect and love. Specifically, they
contribute to a program that neuters and spays dogs
and cats. "We've met a lot of great people here,"
said Sochrin. "And this notion has taken off in ways I
couldn't have imagined."
Of course, you don't need to have a cause to sail in
the St. Maarten Heineken Regatta, other than the
desire to have some "serious fun"!

BVI Springs Ahead with Spring Regatta
The BVI Spring Regatta has the British Virgin Islands


all a-buzz from April 1st through 6. We'll have a report
in next month's Compass!
For more information visit www.bvispringregatta.org.

Management for the Superyacht Cup
Peter Wykeham-Martin and John Grandy of GWM
Racing Limited have been appointed to run the on-
water aspects of The Superyacht Cup events planned
for 2008. The calendar includes the SYC Transatlantic
Challenge starting on April 8th, the SYC Palma from
June 11th to 14th, and the SYC Antigua from
December 10th to 13th.
John Grandy is an ISAF-appointed International
Race Officer and Peter Wykeham-Martin is a quali-
fied IRC measure; working together as GWM Racing
they have decades of experience in professional
regatta management, balancing the needs of par-
ticipants, sponsors and organizers. Patrick Whetter,
SYC Event Director, says: "Peter and John will bring a
new level of professional race management to The
Superyacht Cup. The feedback we have received
from some owners and captains has suggested we
should introduce an IRC class as well as the cruising
class, and GWM will be invaluable in introducing this
new element."
For more information visit www. thesuperyachtcup.
com and www gwmracing com.

Guadeloupe's Triskell Trophy Set
for April 12th and 13th
The Triskell Trophy Regatta for cruising sailing boats
and sport catamarans will take place in Guadeloupe
on April 12th and 13th. It is an official race of the
Federation Frangais de Voile, organized by
Association Le Triskell. The regatta is part of the cham-
pionship for cruising boats and beach cats organized
by the Ligue Guadeloupeenne de Voile. A minimum
of five races will take place over the two days.
For more information contact the Association Le
Triskell at organizaiion@triskellcup.com, phone Jean-
Michel Marziou at (690) 49 57 57,
or visit www triskellcup.com.

Martinique's La Banana's Cup to Honour Jean Trudo
The Yacht Club de la Martinique takes great pleas-
ure in inviting one and all to compete in La Banana's
Cup on April 12th and 13th. On this occasion,
Martinique's yacht-racing legend Jean Trudo will cele-
brate 47 years of racing and in his honour the 16th
edition of this event has been dubbed "La Banana's
Cup Jubilee Jean Trudo".
All racecourses will be on the waters in the Baie des
Flamands of Fort de France, with one race on the
Saturday and one on Sunday. Classes will include
Racing, Surprise, J/24, Racing/Cruising, Cruising and
Multihull, as well as Laser, Sunfish, Tempest, Soling and
Beach Cat. Both days' races are followed by barbe-
cues and live bands at the yacht club.
The committee desk opens on Wednesday, April
9th, and the skipper's briefing is that evening. The
event will be run under the patronage of Peter
Holmberg from St. Thomas. Customs and Immigration
clearance is available at Sea Services, Rue Ernest
Deproge, Fort de France, (596) 70 26 69.
For more information contact Yacht Club de la
Martinique ycm972q@wanadoo.fr, (596) 63 26 76.

A New Name for a Great Youth Regatta
A long-standing feature of the regional youth-sailing
calendar, the BVI's Chief Minister's Cup International
Youth Regatta has been renamed the Premier's Cup
International Youth Regatta. This year's event will be
held from July 11 h through 14th at Nanny Cay Resort
and Marina, Tortola.
For more information contact Tom Gerker
at (284) 494-2830.


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Southwest Cuba

Part Two:



Fascinating... and Far!

I., ., -. ,. Price


Having purchased some fresh produce at Nueva
Gerona, and after further inspections by the Guardia
Frontera, our despacho was reissued with authority for
our return from Isla de la Juventud to Cayo Largo.
Before heading back east, however, we detoured to
visit the dive sites to the west. Here we hit the jackpot.
Caleta Playa Francesa is a beautiful, well-protected
west-facing bay with water clear as gin, a white sand
beach and not another soul in sight. The daily visiting
dive boat pottered around in the distanc- -Ir- rr
the punters off to explore the wall. Some .i -1. .
men sold us a bucketful of lobsters for a ridiculously
small sum. We stayed for a week, until the strong
tradewind flow subsided and we began our long jour
ney back east. It !, ---rth 1-- ;r; in mind that at this
point we were : ....... i -I I our starting point in
Antigua and very conscious of the fact that our return
was going to be uphill all the way.
Juventud to Cayo Largo
For the first two days we were lucky and sailed for
much of the time as we worked our way around the
north of Juventud, but from then onwards we motored
to windward through an endless chain of islands. For
the most part, the outer cays are like Cayo Largo, that
is, long thin strips of sand, covered in dense scrub and
lying with their eastern ends about 15 degrees north of
an east-west line. Thus, the south sides of these cays
offer little protection from the tradewinds and, as the
outer reefs are low with large gaps, potential anchor
ages can be too windy and choppy for comfort. The
obvious alternatives are the northern shores and the


RENAISSANCE
MARINA


inter-island channels, but the former are almost
always too shallow and the latter suffer from the mos
quito problem.
Detailed study of the I .i .. -.
vast shallow area to ti. -I i i. .
includes Cayo Largo and Isla de la Juventud, will offer
hundreds of superb anchoring opportunities. Our
experience proved otherwise. We found three beautiful
anchorages and numerous others that were good in
light winds. We also found a number that looked good
on paper, and are described with enthusiasm by Nigel
Calder's Cuba: A Cruising Guide, but which now
involve unmarked reef and channel passages that we
consider tc 1 1 ... ... 1 ..erous.
In spite i ... - .1. ..- we enjoyed our return
passage to Cayo Largo where we were again inspected
and stamped by various officials, and visited by a dif
ferent sniffer dog. This one disgraced itself by peeing
with excitement in i .. .1.... i .i i.
top of her voice, "G I ....... 1 11 ...
and despite its handler's complete lack of English, the
message was clear and the 1 .. .... article was
removed immediately. The men I ... 11. Ministry of
the Interior were full of abject apologies and the rest of
the paperwork was completed in double-quick time.
More stamps, more glue and we were clear to proceed
to Cienfuegos, in the middle of the south coast and
another port of entry.
S....... the course of the final inspection before we
S* Largo, it occurred to me that the Cubans...
-Continued on next page


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4ayWr mwtf -tih idL VM'niqw frw1M wnunWty tCnb n Ihrt ibli


The long return trip from Cuba's south coast to
Antigua was broken by a refreshing stop in Jamaica


inft rfl 1mw all~ it nil ot IftMWitIIC and a tulkp h.ui~p


T*4 (-.`9 5I %01i64 F-:u?.l?) WI4261 I **vnw ttlwWh tlIl-,t-[ I Cwntc 16 I FllUW Miri pLLt, '.a#i Mit4b.













Continued from previous page
...really don't know very much about cruising sail
boats -and why should they? Hummingbird is quite
a large catamaran with a lot of internal space.
Although they walked around the accommodation, it
didn't occur to anyone to look in the engine rooms,
each of which is large enough for two adults to stand
up and work in. Similarly, no one ventured near the
foredeck, where there are two lockers each large



A--
esp --*\


Trinidad is an absolute gem and anyone visiting
south central Cuba should make a detour if it is not
already on the itinerary'
enough to house three Haitian refugees! The men from
the Ministry of Agriculture had asked to see our refrig
erator, where they discovered our offensive salami. But
they did not ask to see the freezer, which is in the
other hull. (For this we were very .t-f l 1- t-
contents sustained us for a large I1 .... i
stay in an area in which good quality meat was almost
impossible to find.)
Before leaving Cayo Largo we refueled and had no
problems with fuel quality. This was just as well,
because we ended up motoring a very high proportion
of the 1,150 miles back to Antigua.


Cayo Sal
The first part of the eastward journey was somewhat
disappointing as we motored to the south of the chain
of cays, but inside the reef. It was windy, shallow and
choppy, with no comfortable anchorage for a lunch
stop. However, at the end of the day and the end of the
chain, we again hit the jackpot -a superb anchorage
on the north side of Cayo Sal. It has the clearest water
we have ever seen anywhere: the
hook went down ten feet into flat
white sand, I let out 80 feet of
chain and, when snorkeling off the
stern, the anchor could be seen
clearly 130 feet away.
It is probable that there were a
couple ol I ..1.11. keepers man
ning the I ,i,,i light on Cayo
,,j Guano del Este just think about
hat one for a moment) .'1 .1
miles to the east; apart i. ... I
Sit was unlikely that there was
another soul within 30 miles of us.
As we left the following morning,
the wind was backing to the north

dise was becoming untenable.
Cienfuegos
And so to Cienfuegos. A narrow
but well-marked deep-water chan
nel leads into a huge enclosed bay
that is a major port. Around it is a
lot of heavy industry with distant
views of a nuclear power station,
two oil refineries and a vast cement
works. But the city itself, with a population of 150,000,
appears to be generally clean and unpolluted. It has a
very large central square surrounded by some impres
sive publi- 1iil-li;n an attractive pedestrian shop
ping area -., I i -1 i all, a small and very busy public
market. To top it all, across the road is an official cam
bio, or currency exchange, with a few hustlers outside
offering even better rates.
Others have described, in previous Compass articles,
Cuba's extraordinary dual currency system. I will not,
therefore, go into details; it is enough to say that if a
visitor can exchange pounds, euros or Canadian dol
lars for local pesos, then instantly the cost of living
-at least for things like fruit, vegetables, meat and
fish -reduces by 95 percent. Yes, 95 percent! The
combination of market and cambio meant that we were


like pigs in the proverbial.
In Cienfuegos we hired a car for a couple of days,
mainly in order to go to the city of Trinidad, which is
the second oldest city on this side of the Atlantic. The
car was fairly new, in good condition and for the most
part the condition of the roads was also good. This was
not surprising because there was very little traffic and
frequently, once outside the towns, we drove for miles
without seeing another vehicle. Trinidad is an absolute
gem and anyone visiting south central Cuba should
make a detour if it is not already on the itinerary.
Checking out of Cienfuegos and Cuba proved to be a
S butbyr i .i
I. .. . I i ii, marina's's : -, i I. i .i i -
that we wished to leave that day, but by 1030 nothing
had happened so a little gentle chasing seemed appro
private. We were told that the system required that they
be given four hours notice of our departure, so they sat
in their office for another two hours before bestirring
themselves! By early afternoon we were ready to go,
and our first objective was Port Antonio in Jamaica.
We expected a hard slog to windward but, much to
our pleasure and surprise, the wind was north of
northeast and once out of the lee of the coastal moun
tains we made the fastest 24-hour passage we have
ever made.
Port Antonio, Jamaica
Jamaica was, to us, a revelation. The Errol Flynn
Marina in Port Antonio is probably the best we have
ever been into; on the other hand it sits in the middle
of a town that is probably the poorest we have found
in the Caribbean. We hired a car with the intention of
driving over the Blue Mountains to Kingston and back
round the east coast main road, but the quality of the
roads was so bad that we had difficulty in maintaining
a 20-mile-per-hour average and we aborted the trip
near the top of the Blue Mountains. Nevertheless, a
S ...... experience.
i .... i a good supermarket a couple of miles out
side Port Antonio and in the town center there is the
best fruit and vegetable market we have found in the
Caribbean. We left Jamaica with the fridge and freezer
well stocked for what we anticipated would be a long,
hard haul to the east.
To Puerto Rico
Our plan was to cross the Windward Passage to the
western end of Haiti and then adopt Bruce Van Sant's
Gentleman's Guide to Passages South strategy of mak
ing relatively short inshore hops at night when wind
and current would be least unfavorable.
Continued on next page


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Continued from previous page
We were amazed to find that on leaving Jamaican wa
ters the wind dropped almost entirely, so we pointed
toward Cabo Beata, the southernmost point of the Do
minican Republic, and just kept going. A few miles to
the northwest of the cape we found a beautiful and well
protected anchorage miles from anywhere. The only
company we had were pelicans by the hundreds and a
few fishermen camped on the beach a mile away.
After two days we set off to hop along the coast of the
DR, but .;in as soon as we rounded the
cape we I .... i near perfect conditions for
motoring east, so we aimed at Puerto Rico and
kept going. Our intention was to check in at
Mayaguez and then work our way along the
south coast of the island in true Van Sant
fashion. The great guru believes this is one of
the most difficult parts of his "thomless path ..ii
to windward" and he usually allows 11 days
for the west-to-east passage, hacking his way
along the coast a few miles at a time. Our
extraordinary weather window remained open
and we motored on along the Puerto Rican -
coast, finally stopping at Ponce. We had cov
ered 302 miles, almost entirely due east, in 52
hours! By our standards 1 1 i i .
down the tubes, but we i 1 i ,. i
our schedule and we had traveled in complete
comfort.
We loitered briefly around Puerto Rico and
then spent several weeks .II.. .. ..1
i.. .. the alphabetical jumble ol , -
O- ur passages were largely smooth and
uneventful and when, at last, we sailed back
into Falmouth Harbor, Antigua we had com-
pleted a round trip of 2,990 miles.
The Two Main Questions
Since we returned, our cruising friends have asked
us two main questions.
First, they want to know if thi- 1 ...1i. ..... I trip was
really worthwhile. Our answer is ..... ". We set
out, not to visit Cuba as tourists, but to explore the vast
areas of shallow waters and cays on the south side of the
island, and to make an assessment of them as a cruising
area. Although we di 1 -t -1- 1.,-. -.- r
nallyintended it was .. ... i i ... .. .. .. .1
was well worth the 1i 1 .. i i ..... i .1 ..i ...i .
However, we: .... i i, .1 . ........ . ihe westernend
ofthesouth .I' II i li ..1.. did not quite
match up to our expectations. Well-protected and attractive
anchorages were fewer than we expected and this was


largely because of murky tidal waters and, at least in
January, mega-millions of mosquitoes.
Ashore, as expected, we found Cuba to be: ... i,.
The Cubans themselves were "norll ., i,, .. ii
and went out of their way to be I. i ,, i , were few
signs of affluence, but also very little evidence of real
poverty. Almost everyone looks very healthy and it is
one of the proudest claims of the Revolution that they
have the world's highest ratio of doctors to population.
The Revolution also claims very proudly that adult


Well preserved buildings including the Teatro Tomas
Terry and Colegio San Lorenzo surround Cienfuegos'
central Parque Marti
literacy has risen to a level as high as anywhere in the
world; indeed the general level of education is very
high, with more than 60 universities serving a popular
tion of just over 11,000,000. This casual visitor found
these claims rather surprising. In the cities and towns
that we visited, we saw not a single person reading a
book, newspaper or magazine. In Cienfuegos we
passed one poorly stocked second-hand bookshop; the
only other reading material we saw on sale was guide
books in tourist souvenir shops.
Being a communist state, Cuba will claim a very
high level of employment, but in reality this means
that although nearly everybody has a job, by no means


do they have much to do. I was frequently reminded of
the guy who said, "Sometimes I sits and thinks, some
times I just sits." There seems to be a lot of that going
on in Cuba.
For a police state, we saw remarkably few uniformed
police -just three of them guarding a bank delivery
in Cienfuegos. Of course, there may have been many
more in plain clothes. On the other hand, facilities
connected with tourists, for example the marinas and
hotels we visited, were infested with securi '-- ;.1
who did very little other then sit .1 i
Song periods before ambling around aimless
ly. They were, however, the only people that
we saw carrying firearms.
P The second question asked of us by fellow
Cruisers is "Woi .. i .i .. ,,,- and here
the answer is I i i ,, I I .I has north
ing to do with disappointment with Cuba; it
is more to do with a time/benefit assessment.
Our trip to Cuba involved a round trip of
nearly 3,000 miles and the time taken would
have been much longer -and less pleasant
-if we had not been extraordinarily lucky
with the weather on the way back. If Cuba
were, say, only 300 miles away from our
usual Eastern Caribbean groove, then we
would go time and time again. But ,i,,,
well over a thousand miles before I I i...
starts is a long way to go and I doubt if we
S will do it again.
The picture is different for cruisers coming
south from North America. A relatively short
downhill run, either from the Bahamas or
Florida, to round the western end of Cuba
would open up a whole new world.
I would also suggest that any Eastern Caribbean
cruisers heading for Panama should consider an alter
native to the standard Venezuela, ABCs, Colombia
route. A departure from any of the Leeward Islands
towards Puerto Rico, the DR and then Cuba will offer
a safe, secure and fascinating new experience. The trip
to Panama could then be completed via Jamaica and/
or the Cayman islands, then reaching to the Canal. If
we were heading for the Pacific, then that is the way we
.1 1 : and in the process devote more time to the
.: ... ..... and deserted waters of southern Cuba.

Christopher and Jeanette Price live aboard their

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Minamo River Adventure Part Two:



HYACINTHS D

by Bill Bate



.i her day aboard our Tayana 42,
i lIdai, on this wondrous journey
I ., Manamo River in the Orinoco
Si Venezuela. This is very much
I ing a trip in a time machine, as
II. .I her we go upriver the farther
i ...i time we seem to travel.
The ri ....... 111. .... broken only by the occasional
drone < i I i, I Yamaha engine at full throttle
on the back of a river taxi heading south along the east
ern shore of the river. Not only does the sound of the
motor break the time warp; half a day in our engine
room working on an alternator problem confirmed we are
actually in the 21st century. The romance of time travel
is dispelled and our sense of self-dependence sharpened
by our failed alternator, -.. .-;1; it -n -- --- r to bring our
portable generator into ,- I I .11 charging.
To free ourselves from all the clutter and noise, we get
in the dinghy and head into a small tributary, a cano.
W 1.... i .,1.1 1 ... onkey on this trip and we go
SII, hi. i i I I I .. our first troop.
The tidal current was against us, even 20 miles inland.
The noise of the dingh - t- li --; .; -- us, as we
were sure that it would ... .... 1i Ii 1 move out of
sight before we arrived at their location. Consequently,
as we moved in deeper searching for fruit trees, we shut off the motor. Paddling
quietly forward, we moved into an area of berry trees like those we had seen monkeys
feeding on in the past. They peel away the outer husk and eat the crimson fruit.
As we rounded a bend in the cano, we heard rustling in the trees and spotted a
Capuchin monkey. It was not running from us, instead, it climbed out on a limb
where it could get a better view of these intruders! We sat in the dinghy with Harry
and Melinda from Sea Schell somewhat startled by the sight of the monkey. As we
sat quietly waiting and watching, three or four more appeared. They studied us for


MONKEYS INES


Guest lodges on the Manamo River provide rustic accommodations
in superb natural surroundings
a moment and then quickly moved back into the forest out r., 1
When, after a long wait, they did not return, we began i...... out to the main
river. The rest of the cano trip was uneventful, with the exception of a toucan that
landed in a tree near the waterway. It was time to head back to our boat and move
to our next anchorage.
-ontinued on next page


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-ontinuedfrom previous page
We travelled cautiously and to ,, 1 1.1. 1 1. .. .. .ened and deepened, allow
ing us to increase our speed. As I 1. .. -I 1 .... the vegetation on each side
of the river was dense and forbidding but lush and green, with occasional mauve
flowered trees and water cacao.


Most families along the river live in open buildings and sleep in hammocks



As we rounded a bend, we could see construction on both sides of the river. We
later learned the Venezuelan government was building a school and hospital here.
On our port side was a lIr 1 1;;- r--t.n;n;lr .-t-l -lad building. Behind that was
a rustic but clean and 11 .... i i1 .i i i .. clearly the Boca de Tigre
Lodge. To starboard was a fairly large village. We pulled up just beyond the lodge
and anchored with Sea Schell (another Tayana 42), just beyond Alouette. Before long
we were unexpectedly joined by a third Tayana, Sea Gypsy. We were more than
amazed that there were now three Tayana 42s in this remote location.
We were welcomed ashore by an English-speaking family who told us they had
moved to the area about 17 .... F ugees from Guyana. This friendly family
immediately began sharing ,.1- I, ... 1. .. garden and small orchard where they


were .r"rmin .. ;.;--. 1-mons, coconuts and bananas. We shared our gifts of fab
ric, :. :Ii. I II ... cooking oil and children's coloring and story books. We
carried home some fruit and the assurance the family would take our two empty fuel
cans with them on their fuel run to Tucupito in the morning.
The family consisted of four adults and eight children. Their home was a typical















































stilt structure but with the addition of walls of clapboard. It also had beds. This was
quite different from the homes of their neighbours, who lived in open frame build
ings and slept in hammocks.
Nearby was another open rectangular i ..i i,.... I. .1 ,. .led out to be a Christian
church. They had been holding services : 11. I - .. years. We later attended
one of their Sunday services and were quite impressed that they could conduct it
in three languages -English, Warao and Spanish -benefiting the small but
mixed congregation.
Our short visit at the Boca de Tigre Lodge showed it to be an immaculately main
trained wilderness lodge, ready for customers, although we heard of only one being
present at the time. The buildings consisted of single-storey structures, divided into
private cubicles each with a double bed, table, toilet and wash sink. The grounds
were groomed with the construction blending into the surrounding forest.

Continued on next page













Continued from previous page
Making our way back to our boat, we discovered it had been completely surround
ed by flotillas of rich n.-. 11 :; -ter hyacinth. i the appearance that the
boat was settled in i, ,I I . green garden, iad heard that large float
ing masses of water hyacinth could actually cause a boat to drag its anchor. We
pushed our way through and up to our boat, where we could start pulling the hya
cinth away. As we pulled and separated the clumps of hyacinth, the current would
carry them away and allow us to go after the next piece. It took about 15 minutes to
free the boat.
We were invited aboard Sea Gypsy that evening where Ben treated us to delicious barbe
cued, fresh- ....1i .i.. ... I .. .1 .... I ... 1i. i.- ........ hour-longslide showofSea
Gypsy'sadv ..." -.. .. .. .- , .... .. I .. ...... aviation.
Earlier in the day Alouette reported they had traveled by dinghy to Isla De Mono,
about 30 minutes from the lodge, and had seen a troop of monkeys on the island, so
we made plans to go early the next morning. Apparently we hadn't gone quite far
enough up the cano.
Our next stop was the Orinoco Delta Lodge. This lodge is a large complex consist
ing of individual cabins, rather than rooms, with a central hall with dining room and
lounge. It is quite modern in conveniences, including internet. The cabins are all
interconnected to a main walkway. Everything is on stilts, including the raised walk
ways. There is a cage where a puma is housed. Along the walkway are blackened
paint cans with wicks coming out of the lids; these burn used motor oil for night
lanterns. We understand they help keep mosquitoes away.
A treat to the eye was the sight of a couple oi ... -1 -. I.... on the edge of the dock,
dangling fishing lines into the water, hoping I .1 i1 i -1. while the resident cats
hung closely by waiting for a feast opportunity. It was like a scene from "Tom
Sawyer". One employee walked by with a colorful macaw on his shoulder. On the
edge of a thatched roof was a tarantula seeking out insects hiding in the thatch.
We planned to treat ourselves this evening by having dinner at the lodge around
six o'clock. The staff informed us dinner was normally served at 8:00PM and, as dark
ness closed in, we discovered why. The mosquitoes became thick a. 1 .
the point we found it necessary to hurry back to our boats and seek 11 I I
the mosquitoes abated and we returned to the lodge where we enjoyed a most excel
lent meal of breaded pan-fried piranha, potato ,. 1 t.1 It was easily the best
restaurant meal we've had in a long time, and .,1 .. -: per plate.
Across the river from the lodge is a village; from these homes dugout canoes were
paddled up to our boat. The women and children offered baskets and necklaces for
trade. The dugout canoes were obviously hand-hewn from trees -quite rough and
rustic in their construction. As the canoes dry out in the heat of the sun, cracks
develop, causing them to leak. The holes are not filled but rather the water is con
tinuously bailed out. Nearly every canoe had one paddler with one or more bailers.
On one occasion we noticed a young girl, probably around ten years old, at the
control of an outboard motor with seven or .1 ..1 1..1 1. ..i ,. I 1, ..le.
In other instances young boys and girls of .1 ,,, i .. I ., 3 I .. I I II I to
our boat. In each case there was no doubt the boat was completely under control,
except in one instance where we gave the young paddler a ball to play with and in
his excitement, he almost upset his canoe.
Melinda from Sea Schell had traded nail polish and shampoo. The women immedi
ately began washing their hair in the river. Other young female traders approached their
boat later, pointing I 1i. i.,. ... i.1 1, )ping to receive the new glamour product.
We learned that 1I. ... i- i reaching puberty, cut their hair short to sig
nify that they are .i .i i .......... In many cases this is at the age of 12 or 13
years, and by 16 years some of the girls are reported to have three or four children.
As days on the river closed, many groups of parrots, mostly in pairs, flew over us
with their familiar cry, as well as flocks of scarlet ibis. With the exception of the
drone of the odd outboard engine on the main river channel, the evenings were
silent. However, just as light started to fade the mosquito onslaught arrived, making
it necessary to retreat inside the boat for about two hours.
We had discussed going further upriver toward Tucupito but found that due to trans
mission lines across the river it wasn't possible to go much farther. Consequently we
started to head back downstream where we decided to seek out the Mis Palafito Lodge.
We found it about four miles up a side cano where we anchored just short of the lodge.
To our surprise the lodge, though hidden under the canopy of the forest and well cam
;fl 1 had brilliant white banners with red writing announcing "Toyota". We were
I. ... i i t i ... i i .... I ,- 1 .rge, remote resort property on the edge
oftheriver ,.1 i i i i ,1 i i. .1 1 .. Ito be a convention.


The resort was larger than most of the villages we had seen. All interconnecting
walkways and cabins were on stilts well above the forest floor. On the entry dock,
greeting guests, was a tame toucan. As we entered the lodge there were two colourful
macaws and two Capuchin monkeys.
The 1 i;;.;; room was elegantly set up for dinner, with large bowls of fruit on each
table. invited to the bar where we purchased a cold drink and relaxed to
take in this elaborately set dining room, in stark contrast to its rustic building and
the wild forest around it. A monkey's head appeared, hanging upside-down from the
roof, looking through the open doorway. It scanned the room and was suddenly
joined by a second monkey. Seeing nobody in close proximity, they dropped to the
floor, scurried up onto a table, grabbed some fruit and retreated immediately out


Resident cats cozy up to fishing tourists at Orinoco Delta Lodge. Note the masses
of water hyacinth in the river

side. It was quite a comical sight and we couldn't help but marvel at the intelligence
of these ---; 11 r --.l-ys.
Later ti. . .... f- ; 1.;-: edboats came up the river at full throttle, past
our boats. At the o I -. i. ,I I 11, lodge, they unloaded about 20 people per boat
-Toyota employees being pampered with an overnight stay in the rainforest.
As we travelled out, we explored more calos and were treated to more troops of
monkeys. We found ourselves more confident in river travel, to the point we became
a little cocky and decided to explore a secondary river channel with the yacht,
rather than by dinghy. We had no reliable charts and ... .. ..
which we trusted would get us through to the main i. .11. -. I,,,
we did not ground at any time. However, at times the canopy over the river closed
in, occasionally allowing branch tips to brush our mast. That was a little too close
for comfort. This trip was particularly exciting and adventurous -and highly risky.
This part we would not recommend to other boaters.
Our river trip back was uneventful, a clean close to one of the most spectacular
adventures El Shaddai had been on to date. In contrast to typical anchorages, the
Manamo River was truly an exciting place to be.

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I ALL AHORE..


Canaima Falls from the air. 'Despite a sleeping captain and so so weather, we land at the Canaima


At 3:30 on a rainy morning in
August 2007, my husband Nick
and I joined ten other adventurous
cruisers for a memorable trip to
one of the world's great wonders,
Angel Falls in Venezuela.
The tallest waterfalls in the world
are named for Jimmy Angel, a
bush pilot from Missouri who
searched for l1 rn-rl- .-14 in
South Americ i i. I the
falls in 1933 I, 1 I II the
flat-topped mountains, called
tepuis (tey POO eez), in southeast
ern Venezuela. He returned in 1937
with his wife and two companions.
Angel landed his monoplane in the
marsh on top ofAuyan tepui, where
the plane was hopelessly stuck and
remained for 33 years. Angel and
his companions managed to
descend the tepui and return to
civilization after an 11-day trek
through the jungle. The restored
plane is now on display at the
Cuidad Bolivar airport. After his
death in 1956, Jimmy Angel's
ashes were cast upon the top of his
beloved Auyan tepui. Salto Angel,
as the falls are called in Spanish,
has a total descent of 3,212 feet. The
longest drop is 2,648 feet, 15 times
taller than Niagara Falls.
Friday
Our predawn departure from the
Bahia Redonda Marina in Puerto
La Cruz is timed to catch a 9:OOAM
flight departing Cuidad Bolivar for
the camp at Canaima Falls.
According to our itinerary, we'll
spend Friday at Canaima Falls,
travel upriver on Saturday to Angel
Falls, and return to Puerto La Cruz
on Sunday. However, we soon dis
cover this schedule is just another
"jello plan".
Continued on next page


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Continued from previous page
After three hours of speeding down a rain
soaked, pot-holed highway, we stop for pas
tries and hot cups of cafe marron (strong
coffee topped with steamed milk). By 8:30AM
we're crossing the famous Orinoco River and
arrive at the Cuidad Bolivar airport in plenty
of time to catch our flight. We're greeted by
Natasha, the local tour company represent
tive, who explains that rain has caused
delays with the planes. And so we wait, and
we wait, and we wait....
Just after noon we finally board the twin
engine plane that we thought had been
reserved for our group. As it turns out, the
plane serves passengers on a first-come,
first-serve basis. Our captain enters the
plane and gives us the safety speech: "Hello,
I am your captain. The door you just came in
is your n-r -n- exit. This door at the front
is my .1 '. there's an emergency, you
guys go out the other way. The weather today
is, eh... so-so. The flight time is 45 minutes.
1' -i;; t- take a nap, so please try to be
I, I' I I- uy is obviously bucking for a job
at Southwest Airlines.
Despite a sleeping captain and so-so weath
er, we land at the Canaima Falls camp with
out incident. We're met at the small airfield
--- o'rl- i-n li"-n-"-, Pemon Indian, who
iii ... i i Ii. emainderofthetrip.
He advises us to apply sunscreen and bug
spray, which seems overkill for a six-minute
hike to the camp. The camp includes a posa
da with guest rooms and a restaurant. We
file into the restaurant and plop down our
bags. Another tour group is already seated at
a long table awaiting their lunch. We're all
famished and exhausted. "What's for lunch?"
we wonder, and then the hammer falls.
"We're going to Angel Falls today," Carlos
informs us. This will be a four to five-hour
trip by boat and it's already after 1:00PM. The
angry reply from the bedraggled gringos: "No
way! That's not what we were told. We're
starving and tired and we're staying here!"
Carlos patiently explains that the posada is
full and we can arrive at Angel Falls before
dark if we leave now. In the American tradi
tion, we demand to speak to his manager.


The manager arrives, but he doesn't speak
English. So Carlos tries again to convince
us to go to Angel Falls today.
"What about lunch? We haven't eaten
since 6:00AM!" we demand. Carlos promises
we'll have a picnic on the boat approximate
ly two hours from now. About this time,
waiters w I I ... -. i ... '. carrying
aromatic I .1 ... ii I .1 and rice
to the other tour group seated at the table.
By now the hungry gringos in our group are
ready I ... -I, ... .... 1- I im ately,
after all i I ..-- .... I I1. .11 pull on
our ra .. ... li 1 I I i ..ture.
By now the rain has resumed, so a cov
ered mini truck arrives to transport us to
the riverfront where our canoe awaits. We
q pass around the lifejackets, only ten for the
12 of us. Our luggage is loaded in the back
of the canoe and covered with a plastic tarp;
the gringos sit two by-two in the front of the
boat. There is a pilot in the back to drive the
boat, a bowman with an oar to watch for
debris and steer the boat around rocks, and
our guide, Carlos.
About 30 minutes into the trip, the canoe
is landed and we all disembark for a
30 minute hike across the flat savannah.
The rapids in this area are too dangerous,
so we must walk around while our pilot
takes the boat by water. Once back on
board, our picnic lunch is distributed. Each
lunch box contains two sandwiches con
sisting of a hot dog bun with a slice of ham
and cheese, a small package of plain cook
ies, and a mint. Only ten boxes are passed
out, so some folks have to share. Bottles of
water are also provided. It's obvious that
there won't be a potty stop during the four
and a half hour trip, so I take just a few
sips and try to visualize the desert.
Our journey continues into the heart of
tepui country. These sandstone plateaus
formed over the course of three billion
years when the African and South American
continents split apart and erosion created
the river valleys. Stark and brown, the
rocky tepuis rise vertically from densely
Pioneering pilot JimmU Angel grounded his small plane atop Auyan tepui and forested hills.
had to hike back out -ontinued on next page













-ontinued from previous page
C. ', i i 1 . ...o clawtheirwayup
the -1. 1.11- i .ii, -1, I I tepuis' lofty sum
mits. Formidable and mysterious, these ancient pla
teaus inspired Sir Arthur Conan Doyle's classic adven
ture The Lost World


I open my eyes to see Angel Falls playing peek-a boo
under the clouds'


As we make our way upriver and deeper into the for
est, the 48-horsepower Yamaha outboard engine
repeatedly chokes and sputters. At one point, the rear
of the boat fills with water. We stop and the gringos
use their Dixie cups to bail out the sinking canoe. As
dusk approaches, it starts raining again and the wet
gringos are now shivering. The river has narrowed and
the rapids are rougher. Large boulders jut out of the
water making the navigation more treacherous.
Around 5:00PM, Carlos says we're getting close. A few
minutes later, we round a bend and straight ahead is
a magnificent sight to take your breath *-A-*- "n?
Falls looms above us, torrents of water .- i.... I. ...
the flat mountaintop into a misty cloud. .11 ..... I 1


ing my face, I say a silent prayer of thanks for the
opportunity to witness one of nature's truly awe
inspiring wonders.
The last hour of the trip is the most difficult: cold, wet,
S,. -1 .-- -li buck our way against the rap
i i- in, i ........ i . the pilot revs up our gasping
S engine while the bowman guides us
within inches of large boulders. We all
know that if the engine dies now, the
gringos will be in the water, scattered,
and carried rapidly downstream with
night approaching. The Yamaha prevails
though, and with the sun's final glimmer
lighting the way, the pilot beaches us on
the rocky shore below our camp.
The camp is an open pavilion, a sandy
floor beneath a tin roof, with colorful
hammocks slung from the rafters. There
are men's and women's bathrooms, each
with two toilets, non-functioning show
ers, and a sink. A generator powers
lightbulbs strung under the roof and
supplies water pressure in the bath
rooms. Everyone changes into dry
clothes and passes around the rum.
Spirits are improving!
Our long-awaited dinner is served at
8:30PM and its delicious: chicken
roasted over a barbecue pit, rice, and
tomato/onion salad. With full bellies
and the lights off, we all collapse into
our hammocks. A gentle rain patters
on the tin roof, while the churning river provides a
....,. lullaby. And then the snoring starts. Note to
Searplugs next time.
Saturday
I awaken cocooned in my hammock, snuggled in a
sheet against the morning chill. Spreading apart the
sheet and mosquito net, I open my eyes to see Angel
Falls playing peek-a-boo under the clouds. Everyone is
moving at a slow pace, taking pictures, and enjoying
the peacefulness of the morning. For some reason, the
camp guides haven't started the generator yet. This
means no water pressure to flush the toilets. Need I
say more?
Our guides serve us a hearty breakfast of scrambled
eggs, a slice of ham and cheese, arepas (heavy corn
biscuits not easily li.tt- 11 -.d coffee. Sufficiently
fed, we load up in I. ... I L quick trip across the
river. Then it's an hour's hike up a muddy and slippery


path through the .....1 We carefully pick our way
over roots, mud i l and logs. Carlos leads the
way, looking for snakes.
We ultimately reach Mirador Salto Angel, which pro
vides a view of Angel Falls near the bottom where it
joins the river. There's no viewing platform here, nor
are there any guard rails. About 30 to 40 tourists
compete for space on a rocky precipice over a sheer
drop-off. Spray and wind from the falls make the area
quite treacherous, an OSHA inspector's nightmare.
Theview i i .i .. ...i. -...e its wet season,
a roaring: i -1 i ... -at the top of the
tepui. The free-falling water explodes into a swirling
mist before joining the river below. In calmer condi
tions, visitors are allowed to swim at the base of the
falls, but not today.
Back at camp, lunch is spaghetti with a surprising
fish/tomato sauce. By 2:00PM we're in the canoe for
the faster downstream trip to the Canaima camp.
We're expecting a drier trip, but quickly reach for our
jackets as waves board the boat and soak the gringos
once again.
When we arrive back at the river's edge just above
Canaima Falls, there's no truck to transport us so we
lug our gear about a mile down a muddy road to the
posada. Once again Carlos tells us there's no room for
us here. Instead, we'll be sent to a nearby posada.
We're feeling pretty special by now.
Upon arrival at Posada Kaikuse, the innkeepers
inform us that there aren't enough rooms for all of us,
so two couples will have to share a room with four
single beds. Ah, that special feeling keeps growing.
Nick and I get a spartan room with three single beds
next to the innkeeper's quarters. Next door, a child is
screaming when we enter our room and is still scream
ing when we leave for dinner. We do get much-needed
showers, although there isn't any hot water. Later our
group is trucked back to the main posada for dinner:
ar. .. 1.... ... 1 vegetable saute, rice, and bread.
.. -.rn to our room, we're relieved that the
child next door is silent. However, about the time we
crawl into our separate beds, 1. ..1.... starts again.
I guess we eventually tune it ,I ... i .11 asleep. Our
rest is short-lived though. We're awakened in the wee
hours by a rooster just outside our door who doesn't
seem to get the sunrise thing. Soon barking dogs join
the crowing, a veritable symphony on our doorstep.
Lying in bed wide awake, I berate myself. Why didn't I
pack those earplugs?
Continued on next page


Tre Maurk a Maioie i

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-Continuedfrom previous page
Sunday
Breakfast is served at 8:00AM: a fried egg, pancake with jelly, and the usual slices
of ham and cheese. Afterwards, eight of our group join Carlos for the Sapo Falls tour.
We gingerly pick our way down a narrow path between the rock wall and a torrential
cascade of water thundering over the falls. A single rope guardrail is all that stands
between us and the slippery edge. A misstep could mean disaster. The waterfall is
so powerful it would easily crush anyone who fell onto the rocks below. In some
places, the water curves back across our path making it nearly impossible to see. If
you can imagine standing in front of a fire hose, you'll have the general idea. The
gringos are once again cold and wet and awestruck.
For the trip back to Cuidad Bolivar, Nick and I end up on two different single
engine, five-passenger planes. Once on course, the pilot on Nick's plane pulls out a
newspaper and reads an article about Lady Diana. When another plane appears just
a few hundred feet off the port wing, the pilot pulls out his cell phone and takes a
picture of it.
Natasha greets us at the airport and apologizes for our problems. She arranges for
several taxis to take us to a market area on the Orinoco River. We have a delicious
lunch with a fabulous view, followed by a quick stop at the shoreside festivities of
the malecon. Okay, we are feeling special now. Then it's back in the van for the bone
jarring ride home, arriving at the marina just after dark.
The Angel and Canaima waterfalls are spectacular, and this trip will certainly be
one of the most treasured memories of our cruise. Although the logistics didn't go
quite as expected, we learned to be flexible when ti .-li .- i. ;; -t -. -: Venezuela
is a country of unsurpassed natural beauty. It 11 -i ... I- ,I-I dery white
beaches and pristine wat. i .i. .... -. .,1. mountains, and fertile plains. We
hope to see more of this :.. 1.1 i ...., I I we leave.


Angel Falls Tips
Undertake a trip to Angel Falls with a sense of adventure. It's more like camping
than five-star travel, and you should expect the unexpected and be flexible. A little
discomfort is a small admission price to experience firsthand Mother Nature's power
and beauty.
Pack lightly but be sure to take extra changes of dry clothes.
The falls are most spectacular during rainy season (June to December), so bring
rain gear and some warm clothing. However, crowds are usually smaller during
dry season.
Bring waterproof footwear that has good tread. Sandals and Crocs are too slip
pery. Keens are a good choice.
Verify vaccination requirements for entering Cuidad Bolivar. Our group got yel
low fever shots.
Bring a seat cushion for the '-n' -;;-- tri-.
Pack some snacks and water. . .... i *, alcoholic beverage at the falls, bring
your own.
: ..... I i .. .... I and breathtaking video of the tepuis, watch the PBS docu
mer.l .. I. I .I I Venezuela's Ancient Tepuis.
Don't forget the EARPLUGS!


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The beach at theiendly S C x Yacht Club n league B
The beach at the friendly St. Croix Yacdt Club on Teague Bay


I L St. Croix's south
H ILEl shore is still
unknown to most
sailors, her north shore also has many sites that even
regular visitors don't know about. Last October, the US
Virgin Islands government approved rules for the St.
Croix East End Marine Park, which includes the waters
and shoreline from Green Cay around Point Udall to
Great Pond, out to the three-mile limit, excluding Buck


Island Reef National Monument. As part of educating
the public regarding the wonders to be found -and
preserved -the Park has offered Wednesday morning
tours of the bays within its boundaries.
Those who read only the popular cruising guides will
be quite surprised to find several lovely spots a yacht
and her crew can enjoy that are ignored by most. That
spells "special" in many a cruiser's logbook, and the
Marine Park has made some of these spots a little


more convenient than they were before.
From Chenay Bay to Cotton Garden Bay, day moor
ings (currently fr- -f -hVry-1 have been installed to
accommodate -i .11 I .11 boats. From a yacht
anchored in deeper water, it's a short dinghy or kayak
ride to either mooring or shore for secluded beaches,
lively reefs and short trails to serene salt ponds.
Chenay Bay
East of Green Cay lies peaceful Chenay Bay, where
the water is deep enough for most yachts to anchor in
sand. Yachts may also anchor in the lee of Green Cay
or may take a slip in Green Cay Marina, which offers
showers, fuel, and fine dining. The Park's day moorings
are available in as much as six feet of water, toward the
western part of the bay. The Chenay Bay Beach Resort
has a dock in shallow water, a restaurant and water
sports at the far eastern end of the bay.
Green Cay is a national wildlife refuge with a brown
pelican rookery and the last place the St. Croix ground
lizard can be found. Conch, lobster, snapper, stingray,
manta ray and barracuda inhabit Chenay Bay, while
osprey, frigate birds, white terns and brown pelicans
fly above. Endangered hawksbill, green and leather
back sea turtles nest on the beach, which hikers
should avoid disturbing. There is plenty of room under
the seagrape and mahoe trees (but steer clear of the
manchineel) for camping, though fires and vehicles are
prohibited. Lucky campers may witness turtles mat
ing, nesting or hatching in the light of the moon.
The sandstone ledges found in the bay look as
though they are man-made, but are actually --1 -1- 1
structures formed when the water in a ... I1 I
pond creates hydraulic pressure and pushes pond
sediment and minerals under the beach and into the
sea. The shiny black rock veins that occasionally inter
rupt the sandy shores are basalt, unusual on this
non-volcanic island.
The beach lies adjacent to the Southgate Coastal
Reserve, owned by the St. Croix Environmental
........ hort hike
S. ... i.. h 1 I i. .I, ,, I ... I w wetlands
area, an important refuge F.1 i -r---1i;. site for resi
dent and migratory birds, :, i.. i... i ,, territorially
endangered species: white cheeked pintail, ruddy
duck, Caribbean coot and least tern. The reserve also
includes mangrove forests and grasslands, which SEA
uses for education and research. SEA is in the process
of designing an environmentally sensitive and sustain
able Reserve Center, bird blinds, walking trails and
other infrastructure improvements.
Continued on next page


Simplicity.





Reliability.




Long life.













-ontinued from previous page

Early mornings are best for sighting teals, pintails,
ducks, herons, moorhens, warblers, stilts and other
wetland species. Tiny fiddler and large land crabs
share the pond with -ir-l .-n.----- i:;;na and
deer, whose footprints c ... ..... ..... I around

lIs sillisi i itigitigitigii


A barrier reef protects Teague Bay from the roughest
seas and offers divers and snorkelers hours of fun




the still, brackish water.
Coakley Bay and Prune Bay
Coakley Bay and Prune Bay lie west of the "Gl" bea
con (approximately 1745'59"N, 06438'11"W) and
offer pleasant day anchorages in nine to 13 feet of
water within a short distance of the beach. Watch for


isolated coral heads and the patch reef between the
two bays, and anchor in sand to avoid disturbing the
sea grass. At the west end of Prune Bay is Pull Point,
featuring a prominent house with i :r--; r--f n
the home of Robert Oppenheimer, : 11, i ....
bomb. No worries about radiation, but the swift cur
rent and rocky shoreline will send the prudent mariner
further east to anchor. Park
moorings are for tenders and
small craft, while snorkelers
and swimmers enjoy the pris
tine reefs and rocks. The
beach is usually deserted
except on weekends. In the
words of Marine Park
John Farchette III, I.
you're on the beach, look out
to sea: you're all alone
unless somebody says some
thing."
Trails lead through shore
vegetation to salt ponds, where
deer and big blue land crabs
share the peaceful brackish
water with birds, mongoose
and other island critters.
Chenay, Coakley and Prune
Bays have been designated
"No Take Areas," where com
mercial and recreational fish
ing are prohibited. No official
word on kite boarding, but it
looks good here and elsewhere
on te north shore, especially
during the Christmas winds.
Teague Bay
Tague, or Teague Bay is
wellknown for its friendly St. Croix Yacht Club, which
welcomes cruisers with warm Crucian hospitality, a
dinghy dock, showers and clubhouse. The barrier reef
protects the bay from the roughest seas and offers div
ers and snorkelers hours of fun. Yachts may enter the
reef at Coakley Bay, leaving the "Gl" beacon to port:
proceed east about 1.7nm, keeping to the middle of the
channel, watch for and avoid the easy to see patch
reefs on either side.
In the southwestern corner of Teague Bay, moorings
in froi., F ...... Reef Restaurant are in shallow
water -,, I II I -1 to tie the tender while snorkeling
or swimming.


Cotton Garden Bay
East ol I ... 13ay, Park moorings at Cotton Garden
Bay are :... .I f Cramer's Park, a large sandy public
beach with some facilities. These bays are designated
"Recreati-nl Arqe-" e"iTnimmin? snorkelin. ....
boating c.. i . .. i i,, i,-1,,, within I i f
shore are permitted.
Visiting cruisers are invited to swim, dive and snor
kel in the park waters and ,i i i, I t
even more out of the Marin. I ....
tive tour with Ranger John Farchette III. He is a walk
ing, talking encyclopedia of St. Croix flora, fauna,


Carol Kramer Burke, SEA program director,
with empty turtle shells from a nest at Chenay Bay



history, anthropology, geology and culture. Check the
East End Marine Park calendar at www.stxeastend-
marinepark.org, or call (340) 773-3367, for Wednesday
morning walking tours of the Park's bays and adjacent
salt ponds, and for Saturday snorkel clinics, too.

The St. Croix East End Marine Park is part of the US
Virgin Islands Department of Planning and Natural
Resources, Coastal Zone Management Division.
Headquarters are located at the Great Pond Estate on
St. Croix's south shore.


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stood waist deep in the ocean off a beach near Deshaies, Guadeloupe. The
water was still warm in October from the hot Caribbean summer. My 14-foot
long, white fiberglass paddleboard bobbed and chuckled beside me in the wind
rippled, moonlit water; it was two-thirty in the morning. I hoped to be the first
person ever to cross the 30-mile channel between Montserrat and Guadeloupe on a
paddleboard. By the light of a very bright full moon, I clearly saw the tall island of
Montserrat and its active volcano that were 30 miles to my northwest. Soufriere Hills
volcano lay heaped on the flat horizon and breathed out a white tusk of steam. It
reminded me of a fallen mammoth. But this historic creature was alive. I was glad
to see 11I ,i 11. .. besieged by technology and pollution, our planet was still capa
ble of ..... primeval display.




dto dlboatserrading

to ]Vonotserrat


Taking a break, with Montserrat and its sinister looking volcanic plume
in the distance


Hot in the long-sleeved red surfing jersey and purple tights that I wore for sun
protection, then chilled by the cool northeast breeze, I sweated and shivered. I
smelled the briny, pungent ocean through the sweet-smelling zinc oxide on my nose.
I checked to see that my sports bars, water and sunscreen were secure in the mesh
carryall attached to the bow of my board. I cracked the chemical light sticks -green
for my bow, red for the stern -and then activated the two white light sticks that I'd
sewn onto myvi- 11 i, ..l. .. 1i i1 ... i el to see me in the dark. It
1.11 C .. I .. I II,,, i , .i i ... ii without escort in my home
I irgin Islands, in the Bahamas and in the Turks and Caicos. I'd paddled
from St. Vincent to Grenada, crossed the channels between St. Lucia and Guadeloupe,
and between St. Lucia and St. Vincent. As far as I knew, none of this had been done
before on a paddleboard. Now, I worked to connect the Leeward Islands.
I had trained hard and I felt ready to paddle the Guadeloupe Channel. I was ner
vous. I took a last look at the shore and saw two lovers dally on the pale sand in the


i


'- :J!


With my support team. Left to right front row: Ted Bull, Teresa, me,
Danielle De Rouck. Back row: Ulrich Meixner, Peter De Rouck

intense moonlight. Their dark hands darted over each other's bodies. The white
toothed, slim boy wore a red Speedo brief; the smiling, plump, longhaired girl danced
in a black thong bikini. They stared into each other's eyes. Between the crashes of
surf, I heard them whisper to each other in French. They reminded me of the New
York twin towers: innocent, about to be bowled over by a lethal flying object -in
this case, love. They sank slowly down together on a yellow beach towel spread
behind them on the sand.
Oh well, I thought, I would make love to the sea. A paddleboarder caresses the
ocean many times in a lifetime, and vice versa. Paddleboarding is primitive, like
lovemaking, or like a volcano. A paddleboarder uses no motor, paddle or sail, just
the bare hands and arms. Lovers either consummate their love, or not. Volcanoes
either erupt or they don't. A paddleboarder either makes it across a 30-mile channel.
Or she doesn't.
Continued on next page












Continued from previous page
The wind was only five knots, but northeast and a headwind. Paddling out from
the lee of the beach, I was lifted on large swells generated by a distant storm. I settled
in to my paddling -a hundred strokes while lying prone, a hundred on my knees
-and enjoyed the rhythm as my hands and arms felt the water.
I did not want to breathe diesel fumes, so I had asked my chase boat, a sturdy
catamaran, to stay 400 yards ahead of me. Aboard my escort vessel were two
friends who had watched me cross the 22-mile St. Lucia Channel in 2003, and the
26-mile St. Vincent Channel in 2004. Ulrich Meixner of DSL Yachting in St. Lucia
was again my sponsor and captain, and Ted Bul .... i ... ... ing in
St. Lucia, was there to offer his soft-spoken .. ... .. i. -were
Belgian: Danielle and Peter De Rouck. Our tribute to youth and beauty was crew
member Teresa, a young English sailing instructor new to St. Lucia. It was a good
team. I hoped to do them proud by crossing the Guadeloupe Channel and tagging
land on Montserrat.
The moon and stars vanished under dark clouds. In total darkness, I felt disori
ented and nauseated. Lit by the glow of my light sticks, my face, reflected on my wet
board, said, "Sixty-two." My chase boat allowed me to almost catch up and then


Left, right, left, right.... Paddling to Puerto Rico in 2006,
this shot shows Susan's set up


motored quickly into the distance. Windblown waves broke over me. I often fell off
my board, was rolled underwater, and had to climb back on. A fish jumped and col
lided with my left ear. Though I didn't use them for paddling, my calves cramped
into cannonballs.
Daybreak showed me that I was closer to Montserrat than I thought. Uli and Teresa
buzzed me in i. i....i. offer food and water at the end of a boat hook a sanc
tioned methoc I ..-..... i,,, long-distance swimmers and paddlers. My leg cramps
eased. I was riding a northwest current and paddled at between three and four
knots, faster than usual. A forecast weather window had arrived to bring me ideal
paddling conditions. The wind dropped completely. My board slipped through the
smooth water. The rising sun painted the eruptive column above Montserrat and a
nearby cumulus cloud brilliant pink. I was more than halfway to Montserrat, and
still no wind. My crew ni"--" themselves. Captain Uli stopped the boat to let people
dive from the stern. L 1. .. i i surfed the swell in the dinghy. The big smooth
waves made i I II... -citing. I clawed my way up blue hills of water to look down
on the mast I i .I Then I glided into wave troughs like a surfer while my boat
hung up above me on a wave top. My i II... trip became an amusement park,
complete with childish shouts, "Wheeee!
Six miles from the south tip of Montserrat, I turned into a seriously tired old lady.
Ironed smooth under the scorching -.... 11. i- .. to look cold and lumpy. After
paddling for 24 calm miles, I was -, I I I sprint in a 12-knot northwest
headwind (an unusual wind for the Caribbean) and to fight three to four-foot wind
chop. Water sluiced over my head. A fast-moving eastbound current seized me like
a game fish taking bait. I was pulled east into the Atlantic Ocean. Montserrat had
been so close that I could smell volcanic sulfur and see stones in the cliffs; now the
island began to slip away westward. I couldn't believe that I might not get there. Like
any competitor who doesn't want to be beaten, I dug deep.
Everything that I wanted was on Montserrat. I pushed myself to the point of col
lapse. What was it that I wanted so much to permit myself such agony?
r-i;n in to touch Montserrat would be the hardest part of my challenge. To make
a i .i point-to-point channel crossing, I'd have to tag the land on both ends of my
Much of the southeast and southwest coast of Montserrat, up to two miles
is in the Exclusion Zone (due to volcanic danger) and thus off limits to
mariners. But Shoe Rock where I planned to land is protected from dangerous ash
flow by the South Soufriere Hills. It would be hard to get in there. Two-meter waves
crashed against the steep rocks and tossed salt spray high in the air.
Uli and Teresa monitored me from the dinghy. When they saw a hiatus in the surf
they shouted, "Go!" I made it in to an eddy behind a boulder that was part of the
shore. When I heard the sharp crack of my board hitting solid stone on Montserrat
(it was 2:30PM; I'd been at sea for 12 hours), I knew what I was after. Not just a
moment of glory. I recalled the lessons of the day: Montserrat had reminded me of
what a privilege it is to glide through the ocean pulled by the broad blue spinnaker
of the sky.
I was reminded that in accomplishing something big, hope and despair go hand
in-hand. The lovers on the beach in Deshaies told me that love is absolute power;
the people who think that absolute power corrupts are absolutely wrong. The fish
that hit me in the ear whispered, "You spend a lot of time with fishes. But don't think
you're one of us." The dawn said that a pretty daybreak could start a peaceful day.
Or, as when Mt. Pelee in 1902 killed 30,000 people on Martinique, it can herald a
lethal eruption. For me, the rosy d ,, 1 ... 1. the chance to be first to cross the
30-mile Guadeloupe Channel on a .I II I .' i Success was sweet, but I realized
that at any time my luck could have turned sour.
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E" untied from the buoys and gently slid away from the lights of
Kralendijk, Bonaire, under a waxing moon. A month in one
S place in the cruising game has plusses and minuses: we had
had a day of good-byes to good friends and were eager to get
going but some part of us wanted to remain put. That gentle swinging on a buoy in
Bonaire is seductive.
We had waited many weeks for a weather window for our passage north. The winds
had b-n n.rnll- t-- hifh frnm mid-January to February but the day came when
most I II. . -... ... I tobein our favour. Itwas .... 1... 1. .-.we departed;
we were hoping to take advantage of flatter seas at night., I I led to head to
Islas de las Aves to get some eating under our belt; that also gave us the chance to
pause in the Aves should we choose, and even carry on east to the Roques before
turning northeast.




BONAIRE TO

ST. CROIX

by Tricia Chapman


I;

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1 4


Our Malo 43, Skysong, is a wonderfulfriend in a heavy sea


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The south end of Bonaire i- s a real thrashing but we were prepared as most
headlands have this habit. .11,... an hour or so my husband and I were both well
settled into our first night and into our three hours on, three hours off routine.
I. .... ... re in sight. Would we stop and rest in that beautiful
I..-1 I .. I ... 1 I islands, would we carry on east, or would we head
north? The day was full of anticipatory excitement.
-Continued on next page


M tareqc t i












continued from previous page
We decided to turn north between Aves Sotovento and Aves Barlovento and once
away from any inter-island chop reckoned on being able t i- ;- tl. better sea state
-east or north? North we chose and all seemed nicely ,,,i .1 .1i
We had many reasons for making a passage back to the Lesser Antilles island
chain. We had been over in the Southern Caribbean for nearly three years, we han
kered after re-visiting favourite haunts, and we had special friends waiting to meet us
in Antigua. We laughed when we realized that at one point we could make Barbuda
on this tack, as it had been our favourite spot. To return would be perfection....
However the wind didn't allow this course for long and a St. Maarten landfall
became more of a possibility. But there was a long way to go at this stage and we
were just amusing ourselves by dreaming of where we would end up. As long as our
course was east and not west we would be happy -or so we thought.
The wind picked up, and the seas became lumpy and uncomfortable as sunset
approached on our secoi. 1 ....1. ... 1 efing the sails was necessary. Our boat is a
Swedish-built Malo 43, -I ., a real beauty and a wonderful friend in a
heavy sea. She did us proud on the Atlantic in 2002; why should she not do us proud
again? So, with a one-third furled genoa and reefed main, we were content with the
way Skysong was coping with this confused and messy sea. Ugly mountains of
thrashing, foamy waves encircled us.
A sharp, loud crack and a flapping sail indicated the furling line to the genoa had
snapped. It was dark and we were not going to achieve much by going up to the bow
to sort things.
All enjoymeret f tl- i-.. 1 ; 1 -. r lfor me, but Peter, my husband of
42 years and I ...I i ... ....-.. i ...... i this immediately as the challenge
he had been missing while relaxing on the buoys in Bonaire! I have a super tolerant
husband but when I got over-excited about the condition we found ourselves in, it
didn't take him long to tell me to go below. Always calm in an emergency, and his crew
SI. ii we had a lot of moods and emotions to cope with on this occasion.
S I vent below. There's always only one skipper 1 '- '. 1. i-- t- bow
to his superior skills (when it involves sailing!). I just lay in the 11 i ... i .... for
safety that night and for the wise decisions of my husband. Sleep was not readily
available. The bow was slamming into the waves, and the boat was sounding so
unhappy with all her creaks and groans as she raced on, seemingly out of control.
We bore away, things did become easier, and so my watch approached. Unrested
and unwilling, I went on deck with a hot cup of tea for Peter and with a little coaxing
I took my watch.
There- ..... i ,,,. .... .1 about being alone out on the ocean with a silvery, wax
ing moo . I I11 I I .' and only yourselves and your boat transporting you
i... .. i tie universe. However, the magic does fade rapidly when you are being buf
: i I... one side of the cockpit to the other and the spray is soaking your cosy
sitting areas.
The wind reached 30 to 35 knots during the squalls, with seemingly mountainous
seas of 12 to 13 feet rr- i;- as close to the companionway as I could, suddenly
my eye was drawn ,. I, I .11 there was movement on it! I saw a booby bird wres
tling with our ensign, I.... vrapped up in the flapping flag but persistently
attempting to land on I, I .
A full five minutes later a landi... .. i ,i I DIr the first time. The arrival of
this bird on Skysong was a real '.... .... i i .... It instantly took my mind off
myself, my worries and my fears. I had something to centre my mind on. I was so
S-.t -fl f r it as I was feeling pretty scared as we roared through the night with this
I,, 11 .. genoa and heaving, undulating waves all around us.
The tenacity of this bird was enormous. Such an ability to withstand winds such
as these, using its -- ;-n to hold a rough position with Skysong ricochetting
across the waves, .,I. 1 I... up and down. But still she was trying to establish a
proper footing.
Another landing was achieved and preening was the first priority. For two hours or
more I watched as she groomed herself. A mate arrived; I heard the twittering of
friends greeting one another as her mate landed on the Jon-buoy. I was amazed and
sc b .rTF t- h--V their company.
II ...... I with us for nine hours. Peter was happily snoring down below. To
have company .. ... 1.. ... 1. this seemed a rare treat. My mind had been taken
away from the i ... i Ii -' ** from whether we were going to make landfall in
Puerto Rico, Haiti, St. Croix, St. Maarten or the Dominican Republic, which we'd
---- -t-- dt----.rd during the day.
I Ii I "'. .ot rough both birds fled but they returned shortly and re-negoti
ated their sitting areas. One perched above me on the bimini cover, but not for long;
they were soon back to the liferaft and the Jon-buoy. More preening, more twittering.
They were happy even if I wasn't.
Morning light brought our daily SSB connection with our dear friends Sue and
Peter on Odyssey, situated in Antigua and awaiting our arrival. Hearing Sue's
golden voice restored normality for me. She and Peter discussed our possible desti
nations, the latest weather forecast and methods for retrieving our unfurled genoa.
For a while I was transported to our reunion in Barbuda, and a belated celebration
of Sue's 50th birthday, which we had missed due to weather. Again I was moder
ately cheered, despite the continually heavy seas and what had become known as
the "great, white, flapping monster" (the genoa) taking over our lives.
Although no squalls had been forecast, in no time at all they became a serious
feature. The ominous clouds held quantities of rain and built from a small cell to
large in a very short time, releasing their power on us with venom, it seemed. Our
minds were taken back to our Atlantic crossing when at 7 o'clock each evening -the
start of my watch, of course -line squalls arrived. We have radar on Skysong and
I became adept at reading these beastly grey clouds that produced so much distur
bance and threat.
Braced in advance, sitting in the companionway, my thoughts were everywhere.
What was I doing? Had I really just said fond good-byes to all my newly made
friends? Was I -i;;. to see them again? Where was our landfall going to be? Were
we going to be .1 Was something else going to go wrong?
M4-rninf light again brought a sense of relief, of joy in =--in ti- sunrise in spite
ol I .ll,,. the movement the waves were creating under ..- -1 1 was becoming a
rare commodity as Skysong was quivering and bucking at the same time, as she
raced along. I am so lucky being married to an ex-airline pilot. They are a breed
which can survive with a cat-nap style of sleep. Me, I need 1 1 ,.1, r nine hours
to function correctly. I was really suffering here. Howe .11 .In these years
together we are good at compromising, and many a watch I was generously donated
the odd hour here and there.
Cooking meals down below isn't a problem for me in a heavy sea so we ate well with
the normal favourites of chili con came, spaghetti bolognese, omelets, ham sand
wiches and "cuppa soups" coming up through the hatch with regularity -always
well received and appreciated.
As time passed it became obvious to us that, despite our situation and increasing
winds and seas, a St. Croix landfall was going to be a possibility. This cheered us
immensely. We had sailed from Bonaire to St. Croix the previous year and thor
oughly enjoyed all St. Croix had to offer.
Continued on next page


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Continuedfrom previous page
Another visit would be welcome, so our time was taken up with dreaming of land
fall in St. Croix and all we would experience there.
But as time progressed, we obviously had to address the problem of bringing down
the "big white flapping monster" safely. Much time was spent over cups of tea dis
cussing how we would do this. We settled happily with the idea of attaching another
line to the broken end of the :... .... 1... ... 1 1.,. .i .. .. 1 1 ...i I the cockpit
and onto a winch. There was .1 i .... i i i,,, i


The tenacity of this bird was enormous... it instantly took my mind off myself
as we roared through the night'

But above all what we needed was good shelter. One of our worries was that if we
couldn't keep up the course for St. Croix, we would be headed for somewhere unfa
miliar and therefore would not know of the shelter available.
Every time a squall hit us, it knocked us off our favoured course. We were pinching
as high as we could; Skysong was coping beautifully, but we were tired and weary in
every limb. Again, the reliance and trust I had in Peter kept me going. His navigating
skills came to the fore and with daybreak on the fourth morning, .-1 h -i, T;t
hope that this would be our last morning on passage, we had ..-. i .11
being within sight. Our SSB connection was made and, with Sue and Peter on
Odyssey willing us on, spirits were lifted. Within a few hours we had St. Croix in
sight, even though a few tacks were necessary to achieve the shelter we needed to
bring down the genoa.
.1 .. ... .1 is land. My whole demeanour changed; even the tiredness became
:...... i a good breakfast for us both. The winds still had much energy to
give us and we had to battle for the last six hours to get up the southwest coast of
St. Croix. The engine aided our last hour's approach in 28 knots of wind, digging
deep for the energy required to motorsail with a fully flown genoa. Finally, the genoa
was furled successfully with sighs of relief and our anchorage was in sight.
Don't you just love it when you can see your anchor dropping onto a sand bottom
in a sparkling sea, aqua water all around you and the chain snaking gently away
beneath you? We relaxed in the cockpit with the pristine sea lapping around us,
reflecting on the passage, appreciative of the well-built hull providing us with our
... ,'i ....il was in sight and the sleep was going to be glorious, as was the
.. i i ... that enveloped us both.
Tricia and Peter Chapman have been cruising the Caribbean aboard Skysong for the
last six years.



Continuedfrom page 12 Bequia Easter Regatta 2008


Yacht Division Winners
Racing Class
1) Category 5, Hobie 33, Richard Szyjan, Grenada
2) Clippers Ship, Surprise, Nicolas Gillet, France (Martinique)
3) Padig, Surprise, Vianney Saintenoy, France (Martinique)
Cruising Class I
1) Petit Careme, Beneteau 38, Rawle Barrow, Trinidad & Tobago
2) Bloody Mary, Hughes 38, Jerry Stewart, Grenada (Carriacou)
3) Jaystar, J/30, Ron Hunt, Barbados
Cruising Class II
1) Hot Chocolate, C&C 38, Rich Washington, USA
2) Appleseeds, Sun Odessey 40, Peter Asseltine, Canada
3) Kula, Tartan 41, Mark MacNeill, Canada
J/24 Class
1) Attitude, Benjamin Todd, St. Lucia
2) Unbridled, Mike Green, St. Lucia
3) Jabal, Nick Forsberg, St. Lucia
Single-Handed Race
CSA RATED
1) Ha lcine, Open 40, Nicolas Gillet, France (Martinique)
1) Sonadio 3, A40, Yann Lecam, France (Martinique)
2) Clippers Ship, Surprise, Nicolas Gillet, France (Martinique)
NON CSA RATED
1) Klondike, Beneteau 456, Donald Radcliffe, USA
2) Obock, : i ... ,1 i .- urrier, France (Martinique)
3) Kula, T..i ... 1 .11 Canada


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I3 0AILING DIRECTIONS B0 DONSTREET


O N E would think that after a yacht
has sailed to the Caribbean from
North America or Europe, and
has spent at least one winter cruising up and down the
islands, insurance underwriters would see little risk of
having to pay any claims for such a well-tried vessel's
subsequent trip back to the States or Europe, or
onward to Panama.
Nothing could be further from the truth. Boats leav
ing the Caribbean for Panama, North America and
Europe cost underwriters large sums each year, in
heavy weather damage claims, groundings and aban
donment/total losses. Almost invariably these losses
are due to leaving the Caribbean at the wrong time
of year.
Timing is Important
Skippers heading westward to Panama are often
over-confident. They think th ir .- :-i11 be a nice,
easy 900-mile downhill slide. : ,,I I I at the US
weather charts, they will note that for the period from
December to the end of March, and for another period
in July, there is a big red circle east of Panama denot
ing expected wave heights of 12 feet or more. During
the rest of the year, although the waves may not be
expected to reach these heights, you're still likely to
encounter rough conditions near the end of the trip
where there is a counter-current of up to one knot
running against 15 to 25-knot tradewinds.
Boats leaving the Caribbean for Florida often find
themselves in trouble if they leave before mid-April.
They run into a northerr" -a northwest wind, dead on
the nose. This wind then clocks to the north and then
northeast '-.l-.1i; the Silver Bank and the Bahamas a
dead lee I 11 i shore! Boats heading farther north
up the US East Coast also frequently run into trouble
with a late-season northwesterly, blasting them with
high winds and a severe temperature drop. But by late
April, the northers that force their way down to Florida
are not too strong.
Boats heading northwest to Charleston, Morehead/
Beaufort, or the Chesapeake should wait till mid or
late May, as they are traversing an area where sub
tropical hurricanes can crop up through April and
possibly later. These small, intense subtropical hurri
canes were only spotted in recent years when weather
information was gathered from satellites. Prior to this,
since they were small and in an area where big ships
seldom go, there were not enough reports of these
storms to show up on the weather charts.
Heading to Panama
Heading west to Panama, you can island-hop or
cruise coastally (check www.safetyandsecuritynet.com
for any current crime hotspots) or stay offshore.
If heading to Panama direct, rig for down wind. Hoist
two headsails on the roller-furling headstay. If the luff
lengths are not the same, add a pennant to the shorter
headsail. The windward headsail's sheet goes through
the end of the spinnaker pole. The leeward headsail is
trimmed through a block on the end of the main boom,
forward to another block, thence back to a winch.
If the wind is on the quarter, the main can be left up,
vanged down hard and held forward by a foreguy (pre
venter) led from the end of the boom to the stemhead.
If the main is blanketing the lee headsail, douse the
main but leave the boom out to act as an outrigger to
correctly trim the lee headsail.
As you progress westward, the wind and sea will
both increase. Keep your boat speed down to 1.2 or 1.3
times the square root of the waterline length. If speed
gets above this, slow down by starting to roll up the
headsails one on top of the other.
The seas around Cabo de Vela are always rough;


stay well offshore when passing it. Also, the outflow at
the mouth of the Ric I' >1 ^i creates a really bad
sea and, at certain .... I i. year, a tremendous
amount of logs, trees and other flotsam comes pouring
out of the river.
Approaching Panama
Approaching Panama for the last 200 or 300 miles,
you can expect to meet a counter-current and a hard
blow. The increasing wind velocity combined with the
bad sea conditions mean that the autopilot or wind-
vane should be disconnected and you should hand
steer. The electronic autopilot will only steer according
to the compass; it will not take into account the wind
and sea conditions. A windvane will only help steer in
relation to the wind, so when you surf down a wave
and the apparent vi, 1 - forward, the windvane will
cause the boat to *' I *nd possibly broach.
Moreover, a modern light-displacement yacht with a


Whenever running down wind, rig an anti-gybe pre
venter on the main boom.
Finally, make sure of a daylight arrival! If necessary,
slow down and wait for sunrise. The San Bias Islands
are ] 1lin: and surrounded by reefs, and you'll want
good i.. 1.1 I eyeball navigation if you make landfall
there. The Panama Canal's entrance is well buoyed
and well lit, but the many lights ashore can be very
confusing. More than one boat has missed the channel
at night and ended up high and dry on the beach, or
worse yet, on the breakwater.
The relevant Imray-Iolaire charts show the location
and capacity of all hauling facilities in Venezuela and
the ABC islands. Colombian HO charts are excellent,
but only available in Cartagena. However CMap and
possibly other electronic chart manufacturers do cover
the Colombian coast using the Colombian HO office
info. If using electronic charts, ascertain if they are


Leaving the Caribbean


Part One: To Panama or the East Coast


fin keel really will get up and surf -,,, I,,,. Iwn the
face of a wave at 12 or 13 knots in I I I boat is
thrilling but dangerous, as you are traveling at almost
the same speed as the wave. Because there is little or
:. ., .... r the rudder, you have no steerage
I .. i 11. .. ,the edge of disaster. A broach in
these conditions is all too possible.
For passages such as this, where you may have heavy
weather while running dead down wind, I feel that a
worthwhile investment is a drogue. This, once streamed,
will tend to keep the stern square to the waves and
thus minimize or eliminate the chances of broaching.


using US or BA info, as only the electronic charts
based on the Colombian HO info will give detailed info
on yacht anchorages. Zydler's The Panama Guide is
also excellent.
The Traditional Route to Florida
The traditional route to the Miami or Fort Lauderdale
area departs from St. Thomas or Puerto Rico, taking a
course of roughly northwest, skirting the northern
edge of Muchoir and Silver Banks and the northeast
ern edge of the Bahamas, until you reach the north
east Providence Channel. Then swing west, through
the northeast/north/west Providence Channel and on
to Florida. On this route you should be broad reach
ing, or sailing dead downwind before the Trades. [See
downwind rig described above.]
This trip should be duck soup, but unfortunately it
has proven to be a great problem for insurance under
writers. I think the reason such a great number of
boats are lost off the Bahamas is that they are coming
from an area of high islands with, in most cases, deep
water right up to the shore, then transiting an area of
low islands wi I. 11 I .... efs and shoals ,
two, three or e,' I '... ... offshore. I alwa -
you see a Bahamian island, you are two miles too
close!" The only things you should see when -.i...
from the Eastern Caribbean to Miami are the i
the ..1.11. .... in San Salvador and at the northern
end i i 1 ,II. . and the top of the light marking the
south end of the northwest Providence Channel.
It is useful to carry a guidebook to the Bahamas. If
you have a breakdown and must stop there, with aid of
- 1 1 -1- can find your way into a harbor of
: i... I ..... in daylight only, of course. (Twice it
has been necessary for me to do this on delivery trips.)
When crossing the Gulf Stream to Florida, lay your
course well to the south of your landfall, as the Stream
(which can run as strong as three knots) will carry
you northwards.
Continued on next page


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Doyle Sail Loft & Canvas Shop Raymarine Electronics Refrigeration Work
Mechanical & Electrical Repairs Fibreglass Repairs Laundry
Vehicle Rentals Showers Air Travel
Ice & Water Diesel & Propane Moorings
Island Tours Surftech Surf Shop Hotel Reservations
Quiksilver Surf wear Restaurant & Bar Boutique
On-site Accommodation Wi-Fi / Internet Cafe Book Exchange

PO Box 39, Blue Lagoon, St Vincent, West Indies
STel. 1-784-456-9526 / 9334 / 9144 Fax. 1-784-456-9238


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Website: www.frangipanibequia.com


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Continuedfrom previous page
It can be most discouraging, after your long trip from
the Caribbean, to discover you are north of your
entrance and have to beat to windward against the
prevailing southwesterlies and a two to three-knot
. I .......... current .
Si -I. .... I with fewer navigational dangers is to
head west from St. Thomas, skirt the north coasts of
Puerto Rico and Hispanola, then sail through the Old
Bahama Channel favoring the Cuban side (it is better
marked and has deeper water close to shore). Then
head north to the Miami/Fort Lauderdale area.
To the Carolinas
The best routing is subject to much debate. I favor
leaving from St. Thomas and heading roughly north
west, using the same route as one takes to the Fort
Lauderdale/Miami area, passing north of the Muchoir
and Silver Banks, and via the Bahamas. But instead of
going through the Providence Channel, pass north of
Grand Bahama, run over to the Gulf Stream, pick up
the Stream and head northwards. With luck you will
carry the Trades all the way up to the Gulf Stream, then
with the Stream underneath you will be wearing seven
league boots. If a northwest front is predicted you can
duck into Charleston and either wait it out or continue
north via the ICW. If there is no norther predicted, ride
the Stream right up to Morehead City/Beaufort.
Alternately, leave St. Thomas and take a rhumb line
course northwest about 1,200 miles to Charleston.
This is considerably shorter than the route described
above but you will rapidly sail out of the Trades into
an area of calm or variable wind. Only boats that sail
well and have crews willing to do a lot of sail changes,
or have considerable range under power, should use
this route.
To the Chesapeake
If you can't negotiate the ICW (your mast must be
able to pass under the 65-foot high bridge just south
of Norfolk, and your keel must draw less than nine
feet), sail a rhumb line from the Eastern Caribbean to
a point 100 miles east of Norfolk, Virginia. Norfolk is at
the mouth of the Chesapeake Bay. When you approach
the latitude of Norfolk, turn west.
Cape Hatteras, just below the Chesapeake, has been
known as a rr---Ir for ships for over 500 years.
Many people I ii .1 the only way to pass Cape
Hatteras is to either have it 30 miles to the east of you
(i.e. be in the ICW), or 200 miles to the west of you.
Imagine a boat riding the Gulf Stream northward up
the coast near Cape Hatteras. If a northwester comes
in, the wind switches north and then northeast, giving
20, 30 or even 40 knots of wind against the three-knot
Stream. The resulting sea conditions are such that no
progress can be made. Once the wind goes northeast,
Cape Hatteras and the coast north of it become dead
lee shores.
Most yachts will be able to obtain warnings of
approaching northwesterly winds. But when a north
wester blows through, not only are you beating to
windward but the temperature drops -sometimes to
freezing. Every single member of the crew must be fully
outfitted for severely cold, wet weather.
The Bermuda Route
Heading north via Bermuda, the first part of the trip
is usually a wonderful sail. Leave the Eastern Caribbean
and aim for the North Star. The wind should be on the
beam, giving a good fast reach. If the wind is north of
east, don't worry about staying on the rhumb line, just
trim the sails and adjust the course so that you are
going as quickly and comfortably as possible. Even if
you are driven below the rhumb line, at about latitude
27N the wind will ease off and by latitude 29 or 30
it will frequently die out altogether. Usually when you
come out of the calm spell, the wind comes in from the
southwest. If you are west of the rhumb line, ease
sheets and head for Bermuda. The loom can be spot
ted 30 or more miles off.
When you arrive in Bermuda, entering St. George at
night is not advisable il' ... i the channel is well lit,
shore lights make it i' 11' 11 correctly pick out the
navigation lights. Once you have entered, go alongside
the Customs dock and clear.
Boats heading for the States via Bermuda should be
sufficiently provisioned and prepared to by-pass
Bermuda if necessary. Bermuda attracts gales like a
magnet, and entering the narrow St. George Channel
in .'1 conditions is extremely -I
I.' leaving Bermuda to he I I i II States, wait
until late May or early June. It is essential that you
obtain a really good long-range weather forecast. It is
pretty much a rhumb line course, but try to ascertain
what the Gulf Stream is doing. Frequently there is a
southeast meander, which will stop you almost dead.
Back in 1975, when the Gulf Stream was not as well
documented as it is today, Iolaire hit a southeast
meander while heading northwest. After sailing hard
for 24 hours, we discovered we had made only 40
miles! As per previous '--rnin -tch out for a north
wester. Being stuck in 11 .... I II f the Stream with a
strong northwester blowing against the Stream is not
something any seaman likes to contemplate.
Next Month: Leaving the Caribbean,
Part Two: To Europe.
i















The Passing of


a Pioneer


Charter Skipper
by Deb Andrews


died peacefully at the age of 85
in Torrington House Nursing
SI. Home, Barbados.
Irish Pete was best known in the
1970s and '80s as one of the first char
ter skippers at The Moorings' base in
the British Virgin Islands. His shy
character and quiet Irish lilt endeared
him to many of those early charterers,
and made him one of the best loved
captains in the Virgin Islands. He was
not a great storyteller in the traditional
sense, and yet when he had a story to
tell, it was told with a paucity of words,
an Irish idiom and punctuated with a
warm giggle that was unforgettable.
And his stories were legion, as Irish
Pete lived his life to the full from the
day he left his father's bakery in
Esteemed byfriends andfamily, Irish Pete was never Dungarvon, County Waterford, in his
a ladies' man his first love was the sea teens, to the day he died.
His love affair with the sea started
before even he could remember, and as a teenager he saved up and bought his first boat, a Bantry Bay. He
secured a job aboard a coal freighter that plied between Liverpool and Dun Laoghaire. Baking bread was
not in his genes, the sea was.
Those early trips between England and Ireland came to an abrupt halt one night in Liverpool docks. After
the last pub closed, Pete appeared at the end of the pier, only to remember that his ship was anchored
some distance out from the dock. Shrugging off his jacket he dove off the pier, quite prepared to swim out
to his bunk.
But he forgot that the tide was out!
It was some time before they dug him out of the deep sticky mud and declared that his back was broken.
In Liverpool they told him he would never walk again. But Pete could be stubborn and difficult for all his
shy demeanour, and he insisted that they put him on a ferry to Ireland.
Once back in Ireland Pete made his way to a bonesetterr" in County Waterford, a member of an Irish
fraternity who have set bones since the Battle of Clontarf and before, passing on the secret knowledge cen
tury after century. And before long Pete's six foot frame was as upstanding as it had ever been and he left
Ireland once more.
This time he signed on for bigger adventures. As a merchant navy seaman he visited Shanghai and Port
Said, Adelaide and Hong Kong you name the port, he knew the best pubs. Pete was never a ladies' man,
although he had romanced a few with his .. 1.' 11 yes and his courteous Irish charm over the years.
But no lady ever supplanted the love of his I.I Ii
His fascination with boats and the sea continued to grow and he always had a yacht moored up the
Hamble River on the south coast of England. She was always there for him when he stepped off a merchant
man in Southampton after a three or sixmonth stint at sea.
In the late '60s he upgraded to Valerie, a lovely wooden sloop known to Pete and his friends as "de
Valerie"! It was on Valerie that he made his first big singlehanded crossing, from England to Antigua.
Unfortunately it took him three years to actually leave England as he couldn't get his new-fangled self
n t- --ork. It was another old BVI charter skipper, Dan Bowen, who left three years earlier expecting
i right behind him (it was a "last one into Nelson's Dockyard in Antigua buys the rum" arrange
ment) who sorted him out. Dan did two years of skippering ei .... I ....... I hen sailed back to the
Solent one summer to find out where on earth Pete had got to. I .. I -i ..... doesn't work, Dan, do
it?" quoth Irish Pete. Dan showed him, with some resistance from Pete, that he had the lines on back to front.
Pete let loose with his -, 1 i I ....I. ... .. that was Pete's and Pete's alone: "Oh my, oh my, oh my!"
And soon after, the I ,1 I. I i carrying only a large barrel of beer lashed to his keel
stepped mast for sust .. ... 1 I ... I mother who came to see them off asked to see his food
lockers, Pete's now famous response was to point at the sturdily tied barrel and say "Dere's enuff vitamins
in dat to see me to Antigua!"
After a few years working and chartering in Antigua Pete moved to the BVI and started his long career for
the Moorings.
Pete settled in Maya Cove, now known as Hodge's Creek, and finally
sold Valerie, replacing her with Saganor, a fibreglass boat that needed a
lot less maintenance. This meant that when he was not .1 ,,. 1. .. 1
relax and enjoy his idyllic ---rin 7i--t in Maya Cove. I 1 i I
and it was his home for ne .1. I
Pete was a well known figure in Maya Cove, sailing Saganor on and off
his mooring in what became a very crowded anchorage. Only two years
ago, he and Wilf Wild, both in their 80s, .p ,.. h... s. i. 1hurri-
cane season in the mangroves along th .- II .-I I ..'' Rico,
hn i I i I I ... I -l.... -n Puerto Rican barbecued chicken in
siis his b c in i ........ . i.. .. o.
It was on the personalities of those unique hardy individuals like Irish
Pete, Fritz Seyforth, Ross Norgrove, Wilf Wild and Dan Bowen that the
success of the modern BVI -h .rt-ri i -in r was founded. These men
are legend and Pete is one I II, I ,
Pete's knowledge of sailing ran bone deep, and yet he would never
boast to those less knowledgeable or experienced than himself. I once
did the Round Tortola Race with him and at one point there was an
altercation between the six would be skippers we had on board that day.
Pete sailed Valerie from And I turned to Pete who sat in a corner of the cockpit, watching them
England toAntigua silently with his usual Old Milwaukee clasped in his huge seaman's
hand. "Pete," said I 1....i ... I w him in and make a definitive deci
sion. "What do you think?" He raised his beer can in a "I ,,,, .. .... , of dismissal, "Oh my," he said with
that blue eyed mustachioed smile of his, "Oh my!" That was all. Needless to say, we didn't win that year.
Irish Pete's ashes will be scattered at sea close to his beloved British Virgin Islands.


PORTHOLE RESTAURANT & BAR
& Shoreline Mini-Market

SWe serve breakfast,
lunch and dinner
VHF CH68
Phone (784) 458-3458
A friendly atmosphere where you can sit and meet people.
Admiralty Bay, Bequia
Noelina & Lennox Taylor welcome you!




'A.' :!: CRENA.DIA-X : i:_...
EIANDPAINTEDC R. I .: .
SBATIK K I; s


: CLOTHING:Sl -GIFTS
UNIQUE ir FASHION
ART ACCESSORIES <'


ART FABRIK
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Yacht Management

Maintenance Projects
Haulout Management
Guardianage & Caretaking

Le Phare Bleu Marina & Resort, Grenada
mark@islandreamsgrenada.com 473 443 3603
www.islandreamsgrenada.com
















TMTcnRT yr TTIE CBrs R L JEE TENTAT




































APRIL 2008



y ARIES (21 Mar 20 Apr)
Your humor and business ships are still in irons. Speed
made good to ~;.1 .-1 ; I l 11
: . i h I I, .. .. I I. h 1I .

STAURUS (21 Apr 21 May)
After the second week you may ha'-..---1. weather in
your love life. Concentrate on your I' pursuits to
make the best of your time.
I GEMINI (22 May 21 Jun)
You'll feel full of energy an-I 1 1...... ... boat
projects underway to make I , ,I I I
CANCER 6 (22 Jun 23 Jul)
Even with light airs in your sense of humor and bumpy
seas in your love life, your business prospects should
continue to have strong, steady winds.
Q LEO (24 Jul 23 Aug)
r.- .-i ;, 1 111 ii ,1 1, shift
with
friends and not worry about boat projects now.
TW VIRGO (24 Aug 23 Sep)
Now that skies have cleared in your love life, its a good
time to Just relax and spend time on board making cruise
ing plans.
^ LIBRA (24 Sep 23 Oct)
-. 1-- If -Ill ..-.. --- - 1-t sense of


: -RPlhI (24 Oct 22 Nov)
While ... ..... should show some promise,
-;r 1- lfI will be on a slog to windward after the 15th.
S o on whatever small positives your business
prospects offer.
SAGITTARIUS (23 Nov 21 Dec)
Your love life will keep you busy for the first two weeks
and yc .... i, be andcl 1 ;- 11 so get as
much I ,.. I ,I before :.. i .
SCAPRICORN (22 Dec 20 Jan)
You're still in the doldrums with I 1 1
an' --;- ---f humor. After:...i .... I
of ,l l 1I. I a favorable breeze.
AQUARIUS (21 Jan 19 Feb)
Your ..I... ..
to itar. I I I
PISCES (20 Feb 20 Mar)
There will be new business opportunities coming, so
don't be wishy washy -say "aye-aye!"


KEEP N-t CLEAN


I am the deep blue sea.
I hold many wonders
and colourful fishes
the ones you see.


OIsta


If you keep me clean
I will glow and shine.
You can dive for treasure.
One sea; true beauty like
no other kind.

Remember, marine life could
be at stake
if you continue to pollute
seas, rivers and lakes.

Water pollution has become common
in our region.
It will not only affect fishes,
but the lives of everyone.


Keithon Grant






Bill Robinson's Favorite Photograph:


The Pitons, St. Lucia


The focus is on dream: in the foreground, fronds;
then the trackless earth like gold
melts to a curve of palm and sand that borders
a wide bay cool, azure, unpeopled;
and there at anchor the yacht -very small
in the distance but clear, in silhouette
or with her sails lazy, unfurled on deck, spent.
A photograph that's hard to get,

this one's of Eleuthera, blue-hulled
and steel, ?.'.:;;; n .......
of wakes past and ... I . I. I .... .. lines
and ruggedness, all gossamer.
As the Pole fields draw the compass, she draws you
and speaks of some totality
until the photo is no longer seeming
but true, and of no century.


Captain Cook climbed hills like this to chart
the coast unknown before Endeavor.
Today, the view excites in the windward eye
the same sense of what it is to discover
not the world of islands, but an island world:
and what perspective comes with distance
on your voyaging to this far place and near
of the soul, to this piece de resistance.

I have stood in Greenland and felt the same way
seeing the big ketch, my i . -1 bond,
farbelov ..;+ bound, elusi 1.1
I I ii time in my bones respond
to her rare i;. f fi idship and adventure
in -. .. .I palm of Nature's hand,
of a personal enlargening -a view
surely a landsman can understand.

Richard Dey


parlumps marooned


Crossword Solution

ACROSS DOWN 17) VACUUMS
2) VIA 1) VIE 18) VOYAGES
3) VALVES 2) VEER 19) VENTRAL
7) VEGA 4) VANES 20) VANGEE
8) VESSEL 5) VARIATION 21) VALUE
9) VANE 6) VEERING 22) VEIN
12) VAIL 9) VALUES 23) VANN
13) VARIABLES 10)VAT
15) VERIFY 11) VERY
19) VANGUARD 12) VANG
20) VELOCITY 13) VICTOR
23) VAN 14) VENDUE
24) VALUATION 16) VALKYRIE


*I~
_
=-~===----=
~i~---=---
=---
-~i-~-----=---













Compass Cruising Crossword


SM N M E4 'Nautical Alphabet: Vl'


ACROSS

2) Lactea: the Milky Way
3) Pressure control devices
7) Bright star in Lira
8) General name for any sort of ship
139) Wind indicator
12) To lower topsails in salute
13) Unsteady winds
15) Authenticate
19) Forefront
20) Rate of movement
23) Short for 19 Across
24) Estimation of worth



16 17 MS DOWN

1) Compete
2) Pay out chain or line
4) Plural of 9 Across
5) Magnetic anomaly affecting compass
6) With wind, the opposite of backing
9) Esteems
10) Large tub
11) Colored signal flare
12) Device to control a gaff or boom
13) "V" in radio speak
14) Marine auctioneer: master
16) 1894 America's Cup contender
17) Empty spaces
18) Sea trips
19) Pertaining to the belly
20) Contrivance for working a bilge pump by
means of a barrel and crank
21) Worth
22) Blood vessel
23) David author of true sea adventures
Crossword Solution on page 38


Word Puzzle by Pauline Dolinski
Word Puzzle by Pauline Dolinski


P R V S A I N T B R C O U N T
O V I N C E N T A A O C R O N
ABR I T I S H R M M O D E T
LOG I X A R U B E P O V U E
AN I C E T B R U R A I REH
GANSHA N ID I S K R A J
U E I M E BO S A C S L I P A
A B S T K I T T S AS T U B M
D B L O M A R T IN I Q U E A
A I A B U G I RVANCP S I
L R N A Y O N H O J T S OO C
O A D G U N I X I O R C T S A
UCSOMAD I S W I R H H O
P U G R E N A D A A R O C I R
E I S L A N D O C O T R E U P



Word Puzzle solution on page 55


AMERICAN
ARUBA
BARBUDA
BRITISH
CAICOS
CARIBBEAN
COMPASS
CUBA
GRENADA
GUADELOUPE


HAITI
ISLAND
JAMAICA
MARTIN
MARTINIQUE
NEVIS
PUERTO
RICO
SAINT
SEA


ST.CROIX
ST.JOHN
ST.KITTS
TOBAGO
TRINIDAD
TURKS
U.S.
VINCENT
VIRGIN ISLANDS


"Boating interests i

served in a

neighborly manner!"



Tito Figueroa
S/V Alleluia!



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ICRUISIN KIDS'CiOiIR*e* EiM


fMie


Cl




meb


by Lee Kessell
A whole year had passed since Merman Marcus and his lovely wife, Mother
Mermaid, had celebrated '1. I i,.. anniversaryy with the grandest ball that any
one on the reef had ever i .. I .. were there you would know that Merman
Marcus, like all of his kind, lived in the deeps of the sea where all was calm, while
Mother Mermaid, who had pined for her sunny coral home had opted to return to
the reef. This didn't mean that they had ceased to love each other, not a bit of it! No,
they often spent time together but each felt happiest living where they did -one in
the pearly moon deeps, the other on the sun-spangled reef. They had promised to
have an even grander ball this year and so Gem, their son who had been courting
Mermaid Merry all year -although she had made up her mind to marry Gem the
night of the ball -had decided to make it a double celebration. Gem and Mermaid
Merry would have their wedding and ball together.
Mother Mermaid and Merman Marcus thought this a splendid idea and prepare
tions had been going on for weeks. First, Mermaid Merry had to have the most beau
tiful wedding dress ever created, so of course she asked Mr. Needlefish to make it for
her. Merry had caught 1. ---;;' golden ball gown on a coral snag going to last
years ball and Mr. 11 I.-'I I. I sewn the jagged rent together with such fine
stitches of gold thread that it was impossible to see where the tear had been. Mr.
Needlefish was now making Merry a white gown, with a swirling skirt fine as sea
foam. The bodice was fitted tightly to Merry's slender figure. It had little puff sleeves
and a sweetheart neckline and the whole thing was embroidered with pearl tear
drops, silver sequins and rainbow bubbles as small as grains of sea rice. Pure white
netted sea drift had been woven into a short bridal veil that fell to Merry's shoulders
and it was pinned to her long red hair that curled all about her face, with the blos
soms of soft coral. Moonbeams had been captured and these were woven into the
wedding veil making it glitter with every movement.
So, here it was at last, the morning of the wedding. Merry had spent a long time
getting ready in her coral cottage and she had many willing helpers. The glassy
sweepers acted as her mirrors, Angelfish and Damsels fussed about and Mr.
Needlefish was on hand to make sure that his mos ''.... .,,,, ... i. I, ted cor
rectly with just a little stitch added here and there. '. .. .- - I at last,
Mr. Needlefish stood back and grunted with pleasure; yes, this was his finest hour
and he felt sure he would never surpass it.
Merry's bouquet was a beautiful combination of white leafy Scroll Blades, the edges


touched with soft green. The delicate scrolls were curled around the ruffled discs of
small --hit- .-.. .--n r- 1l' Wine Glasses, each one holding a glistening blue sea
pearl i. ... -i I ..-1. Ilew the tiny moonbeams he had captured the night
before onto the bouquet it seemed to dance in the filtered light of the sun shining down
upon the reef. Everyone was spellbound when Merry picked up her bouquet and her
smile outshone all of the sun, moon .. I .. -i ... .... out her.
Scores of brightly coloured reef fis .. I, i,,. I ,, .11 I 1 i. I . 1 I and
black, Chromis aglow in sapphire blue, Hamlets in royal purple I ..., 11.- ... tur
quoise scales and Wrasse decked out in their best rainbow finery -escorted the
bride to the wedding chapel high on top of the coral reef.
i i ... Gem, all dazzling smiles himself was waiting for Merry at the altar.
S had spent ages on his costume too! He had chosen to wear Royal Blue
with golden suns embroidered on his long tunic and his curly black locks that
framed his handsome face were held in check with a coronet of gold. This was a gift
from his father who had found a treasure chest deep in the sea many years ago.
Merman Marcus had looked forward to this day when he would crown his son with
the golden coronet and present his new daughter-in-law with long ropes of pearls
and emeralds. For his own wife he had chosen as her anniversary gift a fabulous
necklace of deep red rubies and pink diamonds.


Butterfly Fish clothed in gold and black,

Chromis aglow in sapphire blue, Hamlets
in royal purple, Parrotfish in turquoise scales and

Wrasse decked out in their best rainbow finery...


Ready to --iF;; th- -1-1.-.; ceremony, a wise old Cardinal Fish in flame red waited
with Gem, i,.I .- I.-. .... I creature from near and far hovered around to see their
favourites wed at la-' v- -..n in...i;- the sighs of happiness that blended into a soft
sea song all during I. i .,,. i Gem and Merry said nothing about "obeying"
each other. What an old-fashioned notion! No, Gem and Merry believed in love and that
was enough for them. Kisses were exchanged all round and Mother Mermaid hugged the
newlyweds until Merman Marcus demanded that he be given a turn.
But now it was time for the feast and ball to 1-- ;; .-1 the proud parents led the
way to the tables laden with nearly every sort I .1 I you could imagine. Plates
were 1. 1 1..11 .. 1 fore the guests fell to, every chalice was raised high in hon
our oli ,....... I .. .. Mother Mermaid, Gem and Merry. Toasts were made, the
guests clapped loud and long and then tl- f- .t 1- .-- i- earnest.
Just like at the last ball, some of the I I i I i i.1 i off to sleep after they had
stuffed themselves as full as possible, but the young couples danced until the stars
came out over the reef, shedding silver starlight down upon the party. You can be
sure that the dancing and merry-making went on far into the night.
Before the new day began, everyone went home, little children carried by fathers
and the old folk led by the youngsters. Merman Marcus went with Mother Mermaid
to her palace in the reef and Merry took Gem home with her.
Now, the big question is, where were Merry and Gem going to live so that each
could be happy with the other forever after? They had arrived at the perfect solution
months before when Gem had chanced upon a beautiful seamount rising from the
deep water. But you'll just have to wait till next time to hear all about the seamount
home of Mermaid Merry and Merman Gem. In the meantime, we'll let the happy
couple ,i ,i1. .. honeymoon.
THE


m iROD @ SPNOREiYPTT T ICN RSOR


(.< %





DOLLY'S DEEP SECRETS

by Elaine Ollivierre
For several months, we have been looking at the various ,. .... .. ..- which
are working towards a I ....i -1 .,, i,,. -f the oceans I .- I '. world.
This month, lets look ,, I ,,, I",, .
News items from early February 2008 reported the amazing journey of a leath
erback turtle from where it was first .. 1 n a beach in Indonesia across the
Pacific Ocean to the west coast of the 1 .. I almost back to Hawaii. A distance
of 12,774 miles (20,588 kilometres) was measured in 647 days! This is a record
for the longest recorded migration through the ocean. After that, the turtle didn't
stop swimming, but the battery on its tagging device ran out! So data about the
turtle's journey stopped transmitting. Just imagine how much more impressive
the long distance record would have been if the technology hadn't failed!
Leatherbacks are the largest turtles in the world. They measure six feet (two
metres) or more in length and weigh, on average, around 1,300 pounds (600
kilos). They don't have a shell like other turtles do, but the tough skin over the
back bones gives the leatherback its name. They are found in all oceans and can
withstand hot and cold temperatures at sea.
Leatherback turtles are considered to be critically endangered. Increased
awareness of the nesting patterns of the leatherback has led to increased popular
tions in some areas. For example, in the Caribbean, Earthwatch's Saving the


Leatherback Turtle project in St. Croix, USVI, has seen a big increase in the
number of nesting leatherbacks there and in the number of hatchlings that sur
vive. However, in the western Pacific Ocean, the number of leatherbacks is esti
mated at about 5,000, down from an estimated 91,000 twenty-odd years ago.
What is killing them?
Like other turtles, leatherbacks nest on a beach. Only the females come ashore.
They use their massive flippers to dig a big hole in the sand where they lay about
80 eggs. If the nests are found by predators, then the eggs will be eaten and no
baby leatherbacks can hatch. The adult turtles are also hunted for their meat.
But the biggest dangers to the survival of these wonderful creatures are the haz
ards of the open sea. Thousands drown when they become entangled in fishing
nets. Others swallow plastic bags because they look like their usual food, jelly
fish. The plastic clogs up their I.. -1. -1 ...s so they starve.
Tagging the leatherbacks will,. .... i ....I, vital to their survival. Now that
scientists are recognizing how many countries are visited by leatherbacks, they
also recognize the global effort needed to keep them alive.


LI. -------------------------------- m










Continued from page 13
Double-Ender Division Winners
Class 1 (12 feet)
1) Knowledge, Ryan Marks, Bequia
2) Rat, Michael Marks, Bequia
Class 2 (14 feet)
1) My Love, Stanley Harry, Bequia
2) Bad Feelings, Samuel Forde, Mayreau
3) D Shark, Hudson Ollivierre, Canouan
Class 4 (16 feet)
1) Liberty, E'... .... .. ....m
2) Marion, D ...... -- I i.i Mayreau


Ueorge Corea accepts trophy Jrom Parliamentary Representative Gotwin daay
for Class 5A winner, Tornado

Class 5A (18 feet)
1) Tornado, .....i -1 i i .- Bunyan, Bequia
2) NerissaJ, ... .. .. I ...ouan
Class 5B (18 feet)
1) More Worries, Andy Mitchell, Bequia
2) Shanna-lou, Ray Leslie, Bequia
3) Divine, Delacey Leslie, Bequia
Class 6 (27 feet)
1) Limbo Dance, Allick Daniel, Bequia
Class 7 (28 feet)
1) Bluff, Lachie King, Bequia
2) Confusion, Wayne Goodling, Bequia
3) Cloudy Bay, Arnold Hazell, Bequia




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i. i i ...... i i i .. .I li a favorable tide will make your
i .... i ,i i I, I I I courtesy Don Street author of
-i i ,,i i I i II..... I 1 i 11 i 11 shows the time ofthe meridian
S , , .... .. I I .. I. ill help you calculate the tides.
, ,,.. .U . i Ih i n oon .- i, i i ....... h
to the east soon after moonrise, continues to run east until at ..i .. I,
moon reaches its zenith (see TIME below) and then runs westward. F ... I, .11 .
moon's setting to just after its nadir, the tide runs eastward; and : .... I I i
nadir to soon after its 1-;. t-, tide runs westward. Tir. I ..- 1cal.
Note: the maximum 11 r 4 days after the new .. .
For more information, see "Tides and Currents" on the back of all Imray Iolaire charts.


Fair tides!
April 2008
DATE TIME
1 0811
2 0859
3 0946
4 1034
5 1122 (new)
6 1214
7 1309
8 1408
9 1511
10 1615
11 1717
12 1816
13 1910
14 2000
15 2045
16 2128
17 2210
18 2251
19 2333
20 0000 (fi


May 2008
DATE TIME
1 0822
2 0909
3 0958
4 1052
5 1149 (new)
6 1252
7 1358
8 1504
9 1607


Avoiding Despair


with Outboard Repair

by Richard D. Fitser

Outboard :.-t. .;-- ..- tl,- n.-t important pieces of equipment on a cruising
boatinthe C ... 1 .. 11 . .. ... 1.. .1 i provide us with transport
back and forth to the dock, I1. I .... i i . ,, when diving and swim
ming. They are also used and abused until they fail. Outboards are really work
horses. With a little care they will give you good dependable service, especially the
two-stroke motors.
As a former mobile marine mechanic, I specialized in outboard motors. I have
rebuilt just about every type of outboard from one-cylinders to V8s motors. I've found
that most people think that their outboards are just like their cars: put gas and oil
in them and they will run. They don't take into consideration the saltwater environ
ment in which the outboards operate. When you read the flat-rate manual, which
tells how much time it should take to do a particular job on an outboard, there is an
asterisk at the bottom of the page where it states: "If the motor is used in salt water,
forget the manual; repair time is how long it takes to do the job."


Double trouble? The author seems to be chuckling at a new concept
in twin outboards

Preventive maintenance goes a long way. We should flush out our motors every day
with fresh water to keep the cooling system clean. Yeah, right! Like we all have so
much fresh water that we are going to waste it flushing the cooling system of an
outboard. Well, if you want Yamaha to honor its warranty you must do just that. But
we all know that this is never going to happen in the real world of cruising.
We can, however, spray down the power head with WD40, CRC, or any local spray
lubricants once a month. At the same time .n i. .... i ... .. -around
the carburetor. i. .. .. .11 of the grease :, ,.- .1 ..... i i .. .- to pre
vent the motor i ... i .... in one position. Now, since you are really getting into
this maintenance mode, it would be a good time to change the lower unit oil. Every
six months, or at least once a year, open the lower drain screw and see if any water
drips out. Then put a container under the lower unit and open the top screw. Let the
old oil drain out, being very careful not to drop the screws.
When the oil stops draining, replace the small amount of oil the lower unit contains
(about 6 to 8 ounces in two-cylinder 10 or 15-horsepower motors) through the bot
tom drain. Spin the prop while doing this to get out any air.
Continued on next page



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Cel: +599 552 7645
Phone/fax:- +599 544 2320











-ontinuedfrom previous page
When the new oil leaks out of the top hole, the unit is full and you can replace the
top screw. Next, remove the filler tube and replace the bottom screw. I am sure by
now you are saying, I wish I had two more hands when doing this procedure. It
really is not hard or complicated. If you need help there are sure to be several old
pro's out there who would be glad to give you a hand on your first try.
Now get out your spark plug wrench and remove the plugs. (You do have a spark
plug wrench, don't you?) Take a good look at the plugs. Are they clean? Are the
insulators a nice light brown? Is the gap close to specs? You need to get out the
handbook on your outboard and check what the gap should be. It could be .030",
.040" or .060". You will need a three-dollar feeler gauge to measure it. If it has been
a couple of years since they have been checked, do yourself a favor and buy some
new plugs. The NGK brand is usually pretty close to being gapped correctly from the
factory, but it is always a good idea to check them before installing.
Now that you have put in 1. i i... i- .1 the connector boots thatyou are going
to put back on the plugs. SI 1.111 I I .. ,here and push them on good and tight
(make sure they snap on). Then put the cover back on the motor and put it back on the
dinghy and start it up. Never run the motor out of the water without a water hose hooked
up to it. That is the quickest way I know to destroy a water pump impeller.
Water pump impellers are another item most people don't think about until the
motor overheats. It is a good idea to check or even change the impeller once every
two years. Even though the engine is running cool, periodic inspection will prevent
the lower unit from being frozen in place. Just take off the lower unit and grease up
all the connectors and bolts as you reinstall. The motor will show its appreciation by
running smoothly for a long time.
If the outboard will not be used for an extended period (more than one month), run
out all the gasoline from the carburetor. If this is not done, the gas will turn into
varnish and will gum up the carburetor.
Perhaps one of the most important pieces of advice that I can give you is: use the
best outboard oil you can find. It is the cheapest insurance you can get to keep your
outboard running well. More is always better than less when adding oil to the gaso
line. A little extra oil just produces a little smoke and will not hurt a thing, although
you might find yourself having to clean the plugs now and then.
A little preventive maintenance will go a long way toward getting good service from
your outboard for a long time.





The Two-Cent

Outboard Fix

Has your Yamaha lost its get-up and go? Well mine sure li1 ..1 it i :t .1-;lt 1;
me over the edge, although some people may say I didn't: .11 11I l I I
spent a good deal of time and effort trying to solve this problem.
My 15-horsepower Yamaha was running like a 5-horse. It would not get up on a
plane. This didn't happen overnight; it was a gradual process. It first started taking
longer to plane out, then needing more throttle to stay up on a plane. Finally it would
not get up on a plane at all, just mush along.
I tried new sparl i 1;; li o difference. I checked the compression. It was the same
in both cylinders i i II no problem there. I made a spark tester and checked the
spark. No problem there.
Well, as my Dad once told me, if you have good compression and good spark, the
problem is fuel. So I took apart the carburetor, cleaned it, put it back together and
reinstalled it. No difference. The motor started and ran at low speed as smooth as
silk, but would not run at high speed. This was really driving me nuts. I fix other
people's outboards, but can't get mine to run.
I tried to buy a rebuild kit for my carburetor in Venezuela, no luck. I tried to have
1 f-i-, --. re g ;..;1 1 T I .. ; l .. e kit, still no luck. The
..... I I .. I I -.. no -. I.... II ....... ... friendswhoweregoing
to Canada checked with the dealer there. He said, "That model was not a North
American model." What? I bought it from a licensed Yamaha dealer in Fort
Lauderdale, Florida, in 2001.
I would like to say that I came up with the solution, but I didn't. A friend described
the problem he had with his 15-horsepower Yamaha Enduro, and it was the same
as mine. He told me how a mechanic in Panama fixed his. It seems the Yamaha uses
a very soft brass in its ':.1.. i 1 i I d the orifice enlarges over time, causing the
motor to get too much I. I II ..- ...- it to bog down at high speed. So the cure
was to put three small copper wires into the jet, which leaned it out. So I tried it and
it worked. I wil .. -jet, but the two-cent fix is a great stopgap measure.
Here is how .... I ... magic" wire. First I found a scrap piece of #12 marine wire.
I stripped off about three inches of insulation and untwisted the wire. Then I snipped
off three strands and twisted the end- I 11. for a distance of about one inch. I
took my needle-nose pliers and made a -...11 I in the twisted end (about 1/8 inch
in diameter). I had already removed the carburetor bowl from the carburetor so I
could insert the three wires into the jet. When I could see they could go no farther
into the jet I removed them and snipped off about an inch. When reinstalled the
little loop stuck out about 1/8 inch from the bottom of the jet.
Now it was time to put the bowl back on the carburetor and put the carburetor
back on the motor. When I started up the motor it idled as it always did, but when
I opened it up it jumped up on a plane and would plane out at one-third throttle as
it did when it was new.
I only wish that I could claim that it was my idea. If your Yamaha is acting tired
and nothing else seems to help, give it a try.
Richard D. Fitser was a former teacher, general contractor, and marine mechanic. He
and his wife Diane left Fort Lauderdale, Florida, in June 2003, on their 38foot ketch,
Jabulani. They cruised down the island chain and west to Curacao, spending much
of the past three years on the north coast of Venezuela and its islands. Richard
enjoyed helping people and healed many ailing outboards. Richard and Diane were
anchored in Porlamar, Margarita, Venezuela, when he died of a heart attack on
January 28th. He was buried on Margarita.



We are on-line:
www.caribbeancompass.com


J WALLILABOU PORT OF ENTRY
ANCHORAGE MOORING FACILITIES
WALLILABOU BAY HOTEL WATER, ICE, SHOWERS
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P.O. Box 851, St. Vincent & the Grenadines, CREDIT CARDS ACCEPTED
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Tel: (784) 4587270 Fax: (784) 457 9917 HAPPY HOUR 5-6
E mail: wallanch@caribsurf.com





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SBar open daily until... unday 6pm 2am
Kitchen open Monday to Saturday 10am 10pm
* Menu: Burgers, Flying Fish, Philly Steak Sandwiches,Fajitas, Salads,
* Chicken Wings, Conch Fritters, etc. Dinner Menu 0
* ivEft Ce T-i* ,4 mioaw*. e o^ *JWTi *
BEQUIA, Port Elizabeth, dmiralty Bay
Tel: (784) 457 3443 e-mail: saltydog@vincysurf.com


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Open Monday to Saturday 8:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m.
Look for the Big Blue Building and ask for Stan or Miguel!
Water, Diesel, Ice, Bottled Water and Dockage available.

The Yacht Club, Bequia Marina, Port Elizabeth, Bequia,
St. Vincent & The Grenadines
VHF 68, Telephone 784-457-3361


Compass


Correspondents'


Annual Get-Together

There is such a thing as a free brunch, at least in the Compass world! It's our
annual way of saying "thanks" to those who provide the content that makes
Caribbean Compass what its readers say is "the most interesting, useful, informative
and entertaining monthly" serving boating interests in the Caribbean.
This year on Thursday, March 20th, 40 guests from far and near gathered in
Bequia for the occasion. The venue for Compass Writers' Brunch 2008 was Mac's
Pizzeria, a landmark on the shore of Admiralty Bay and a prime spot for viewing the
scores of yachts arriving for the Bequia Easter Regatta.


Above: Veteran cruising
correspondent Dave Richardson's
question about cumbersome yacht
clearance procedures generated
intense discussion



Left: Guest speaker Sharon
McIntosh stated that in the interest
of improving the sub region's
marine tourism sector, the CMA
is lobbying for a common
yacht clearance form


Our guest speaker was Sharon McIntosh, Manager of the Caribbean Marine
Association (CMA), Chairman of the 1..... -i ..... committee of Trinidad &
Tobago, and former General Manager c i 11 . i.1 . Association of Trinidad
& Tobago. Sharon is an economist by trade, -i ..1. ... in sector development.
Among other topics, her talk raised awareness I i 11. aribbean's national and
regional recreational-boating trade associations can help inform yacht-friendly
policies and decisions at governmental levels. Examples of such accomplishments
include the CMA's role last year i. . .... 11 I I I I .. ce Passenger Information
System) suspended for yachts in 1. .... i -1 i i I ,.... the Eastern Caribbean's
yacht tourism industry. Also to boost that sector, the CMA is curre.tl-- 1 -1---;;
the English-speaking Eastern Caribbean to have a single Customs i
for yachts.
Sharon's talk kicked off a lively open discussion of bureaucracy vis-a-vis yachting,
ranging from cruisers' relating first-hand experiences with clearance paperwork, to
yachtsman and former St. Vincent & the Grenadines Prime Minister Sir James
Mitchell sharing his long-term perspective from the governmental side.
Conversations continued over an abundant and scrumptious brunch buffet pre
pared by Judy Simmons and her Mac's Pizzeria staff. Boat cards and business cards
flew from hand to hand as new contacts and new friends were made.
Present at Compass Writers Brunch 2008, in addition to those mentioned above,
were Caribbean Compass contributors Richard Ashton, Herman Belmar, Bob
Berlinghof, Steve Manley, Morris Nicholson, Roland O'Brien, Mariann Palmborg,
Frank Pearce, Dave Richardson, Jo Anne Sewlal, Jerry Stewart (who is also our
Carriacou agent), Donald Stollmeyer, Amal Thomas, Lucy Tulloch (who is also our
Antigua agent), Ann Vanderhoof and Nathalie Ward and their invited guests. These
writers and ---t-rr-h -r -vere joined by Compass Publishing's "cockpit crew"
Debra Davis, .1 i i i . Sally Erdle, Tom Hopman and Elaine Ollivierre.
To those many contributors unable to attend this year, we thank you, too, for all
your talent and efforts and hope to see you at a future Compass Writers' Brunch,
always the Thursday before Easter.


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Fine Wine, Cheeses, Fresh Fruits, Vegetables
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Monday-Saturday: 8am to 12pm & 3pm to 6pm
Sunday: 9am to 12pm


THE FOOD STORE

Corea's Mustique
Tel: (784) 488-8479 Fax: (784) 456-5230


























by Ross Mavis


It was an unexpected treat for me, and no doubt countless others. When staying
on the magical island of Bequia a while back, we enjoyed a lobster pizza from Mac's
Pizzeria on the shore of Admiralty Bay.
When Pizza Pie arrived on the North American commercial scene some 50 years
ago, few people realized how popular this fast food would become. Its quick accep
tance by all ages soon brought large food companies like Kraft to develop lackluster
pizza mixes in a box. An envelope of ".l-i;n. in- -lients for the crust, a can of
tomato and herb sauce and small packe 1I ...' ... cheese enticed many families
to try this "new" exotic Italian food. Some families were satisfied with the less than
perfect results, but many were disappointed.
The first pizza franchise restaurants were formed and soon flourished. Many inde
pendents sprang up as well and continue even today in a society where chain owner
ship and branding dominate.
The thin but crispy crust of good pizza, with a sauce and topping of your own
choosing and lots of melted grated Mozzarella cheese, is difficult to beat for an out
of-hand meal. The ability to add or delete the myriad toppings available, and the
choice of your own specially formulated tomato-based sauce or simple herb-infused
oil allows complete customization.
Good pizza was not new to my wife and me ever since she was "i--n a recipe for
fantastic pizza dough. While sailing in the Caribbean in the early : -- after cruis
ing i ...i. I ... mid crossing the Atlantic in a 29-foot Scampi sloop, a Swedish
-1'...... .II encountered this excellent pizza dough recipe.
i, i.. i and Caicos we met a Canadian couple from a mining town in Ontario,"
Willa says. "They were sailing a concrete ketch and we spent a few days anchored
next to them. She was Italian and we all loved good food. We had a gas oven, fairly
uncommon then, and they had a great recipe for pizza dough. Between us we mus
tered up some tasty topping ingredients."
The friendship became instantaneous when our sloop's small oven turned out
many little pizzas. To this day the pizza dough recipe is dutifully kept in Willa's
cruising cookbook and referred to regularly when authentic thin crust pizza is
wanted. It's a real snap to make and rises wonderfully in the warmth and humidity
of the Caribbean.
We're pleased to share this superb recipe with other cruisers and encourage you
to make delicious pizza from this 40-year-old cruising recipe.
Caribbean Pizza Dough
1/4 Cup lukewarm water
1 teaspoon sugar
1 envelope dry yeast
1/4 Cup milk
1/4 Cup hot water
3/4 teaspoon salt
3 1i I.' I
2 1, I -.11 .11 ...I flour
Measure lukewarm water into a medium bowl, add sugar and stir until dissolved.
Sprinkle yeast onto water and let stand for about 10 minutes. Stir well. Combine
milk and hot water and stir into yeast mixture. Add salt and flour, mixing until thick
and sticky. Turn out dough onto a lightly floured board and knead until dough is
smooth and elastic.
Put dough into a large bowl oiled with the cooking oil. Roll dough around to coat
lightly with oil and let rise in a warm place until double in size, about 45 minutes.
Cut risen dough in two and pat each portion onto a 14-inch pizza pan. Top with your
favorite tomato pizza sauce, onions, olives, green peppers and mushrooms. Add any
sausage, salami, pepperoni, '..n ,1 ;; 1 .-- to your liking. We have even had
;- .t; t using sliced wiei -i II I I -I ,-or crab also makes an incredible
a la Mac's.
Cover toppings with lots of grated mozzarella cheese.
Bake in hot oven until crust is nicely browned and cheese is bubbling.
It's even almost as good on shore.


Basil's Bar

SMustique


Visitors to Mustique are invited to:
BASIL'S BAR AND RESTAURANT: Basil's Bar in Mustique was named one of the
M\brld's Ten Best Bars in 1987 by Newsweek magazine and today lives up to that tradi
tion. Recently renovated the new face of Basil's Bar in Mustique is all that and more
offering the freshest seafood, steaks and pastas for dinner. Terrific lunches and break
fasts. Now equipped with WIFI you can enjoy sunset cocktails and catch up on the web.
Basil's Bar is home and originator of the Mustique Blues Festival, January 21 -February
4, 2009. Breakfast service begins at 8:00 AM, Lunch is served 11:00 AM 6 PM,
Dinner at 7:30 until late. Come to Basil's for Cocktails anytime and plan to attend the
Wednesday night Jump up and BBQ. Call 784-488-8350 or VHF 68.
BASILS BOUTIQUE Fabrics as bright as the sea and as light as air.. perfect for
island joy. Elegant island evening and playful day wear. For women, men and children,
plus lots of T shirts to take home. Basil's Boutique also offers silver and gemstone jewel
ry.
BASIL'S GREAT GENERAL STORE: There is nothing general about Basil's
Great General Store -stocked with fine French wines, cheeses from Europe,
sauces and gourmet jams. Imported cigars. Fine foods in Paradise. Call 784-488-8407
ACROSS FOREVER: Imagine, decorating your home with Antiques from Bali and
India -contemporary pieces and fabulous lighting. Across Forever has
a magnificent collection of furniture and home accessories from Asia.
Shipping is easily and efficiently arranged. Call 784-488-8407

Visitors to St Vincent are invited to:
BASI LS BAR: In St Vincent -near the port of Kingstown is an 18th century cob
blestone building where you may find Basil's Restaurant and Bar. Air conditioned,
you will enjoy cocktails most i i i, ii lie staff most welcoming and the meals, some
of the best on the island. Call i i .13
Visit Basil's in Mustique or St. Vincent
www.basilsbar.com basils@caribsurf.com





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VHF 08- TEL.FAX (784) 458 8918 capgoucrmtcatibsurf com


Stock Up

on the widest selection and the

best prices in Grenada at our two
conveniently located supermarkets

Whether its canned goods, dairy
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or fruits, tolletnes, household goods,
or a fine selection of liquor and wine,
The Food Fair has it all and a lot more

Hubbard's
JONAS BROWNE & HUBBARD (G'da) Ltd


The

Food

Fair


The Carenage:
Monday Thursday
8 am to 5:30 pm
Friday until 8:45 pm
Saturday until
1:00 pm
Tel: (473) 440-2588
Grand Anse:
Monday Thursday
9 am to 5:30 pm
Friday & Saturday
until 7:00 pm
Tel: (473) 444-4573


TAMALE 'INI


MAC'S PIZZERIA











In addition to our famous pizza we offer
seasonal specialties and fresh baked goods.
Open daily from 11:00am to 10:00pm.
Situated in Admiralty Bay, Bequia between
the Frangipani and Plantation House.
For Reservations: VHF Ch68
or Tel: (784) 458 3474
Closed on Mondays



WTIDRIATAW12I 111 "T


1 hot pepper, seeded and minced
1 teaspoon lemon juice
salt to taste
Bring water to a boil before adding tamarind paste,
raisins and sugar. Remove from heat and soak for an
hour. Work the tamarind paste into a creamy juice
while adding the spices, pepper and lemon juice.
Blend it with a spoon or an electric blender. Cover and
let the chutney stand at room temperature overnight.

Tasty Tamarind Veggies a different stir-fry!
2 Cups water
1/3 Cup tamarind paste
1 large onion, sliced
3 l-- -f .; i minced
2 -1 ..'- ... i chopped ginger root
1 hot pepper, seeded and minced or whole (optional)
2 Tablespoons curry powder
1 large sweet pepper, seeded and chunked
2 cups cauliflower florets
1/4 Cup sliced mushrooms
1 large carrot, chunked
1 bunch bodi beans, chopped into one-inch pieces
1 Cup coconut milk
3 Tablespoons oil
2 cups chana (chick peas/garbanzo beans)
3 Tablespoons chopped chadon bene
Boil one cup of the water and add the tamarind paste.
Let it sit for an hour and then work it soft. Set aside.
In a large frying pan with a cover heat the oil, cook
the onion, garlic, ginger and hot pepper for five min-
utes and then add the curry powder. Cook for three
minutes. Add vegetables. Simmer covered for five min-
utes. Increase the heat and add 1/3 Cup of the soft
ened tamarind paste and bring to a boil. Reduce heat
and simmer for 20 minutes. Add the chana and sim-
mer until they are tender. Sprinkle with chadon bene.

For the farmer- I I 1. I -.t results in both num-
ber of pods and .... ....i II fertilize trees to three
years old with a cup of 6-6-3 fertilizer about three
times a year. I ...... trees should get 8-3-9, at a cup
for every five .- age at the same intervals.


The West Indies have a very unusual fruit, the
tamarind. The lumpy, six-inch pods can have as many
as 12 seeds buried in the edible, sticky brown paste.
The shells are brittle and break easily when the pods
are fully ripe. I can't think of any fruit other than
tamarind that can just stay ripe on the tree for
months. Once you taste it, as ugly as it is, you will be
hooked. Can you say why you love the flavor of the
pulp, or even describe the flavor as sour or sweet? But
you just love tamarind!
Tamarind trees are slow to mature to the grandeur
of 70-foot height and 30-foot width. It's a hearty, wind
resistant tree that can adapt to most conditions, and
only needs well-drained soil. Enjoy the shade.
When green, the pods can be used as a seasoning and
are boiled with rice. The tamarind pulp is used in a
variety of sauces including Worcestershire
("English") sauce.
Tamarind balls, a candy, are probably the most com-
mon way of eating the pulp. To make them, remove the
shell, separate the pulp from the seeds, work the goo
on a colander and keep adding powdered sugar. Shape
the strained-pulp/sugar mixture into one-inch balls
and roll in granulated sugar. They are a mess to make
but delicious to savor.
Tamarind water is another easy treat. Put is as many
shelled fruits as you choose (more will make a stronger
flavor) in a bottle of water overnight. Cloves, ginger,
and even a hot pepper may be added to enhance the
flavor. Add sugar to your taste.
In Thailand they grind the dry tamarind seeds to
make a coffee substitute. The seeds have a property
that makes things gel better than pectin and which is
used as a stabilizer for ice creams.
The tamarind is considered the only spice to have
originated in Africa, although India also tries to claim
the delicious fruit. The word tamarind translates as
"Indian date" (tamar hindi), and India is the world's
largest producer.
The pulp is high in calcium and Vitamin B. Tamarind
pulp has only 50 calories in two ounces with some
protein and fiber. Fresh pulp can be applied directly
on inflammations and used as a rinse for a sore
throat. Boiled tamarind leaves and flowers can be used
as poultices for sprains and arthritis. A tea from the
tree's bark makes an excellent tonic. Pets infested with
fleas or ticks can be washed and then rinsed with
strong tamarind water -let it dry on them. Hard
tamarind heart wood makes the best hoe handles, and
mortars and pestles.
Tamarind Black Beans
2 Cups black beans, pre-soaked
1/4 Cup tamarind paste
2 Cups hot water
1/3 Cup oil
2 medium onions, chopped
2 Tablespoons minced garlic
2 Tablespoons grated fresh ginger
1 hot pepper seeded and chopped fine (optional)
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1/4 teaspoon ground turmeric
1 large tomato, chopped small
2 teaspoons roasted cumin seeds
1 teaspoon garam massala
2 bundles chadon bene, chopped
salt to taste
Soak black beans in water ....1.1 Soak tamarind
paste in hot water for an h( ... i. .. it has cooled,
work the paste between your hands to produce a
strong juice. Set beans and tamarind juice aside.
In a large skillet heat oil and saute the onions until
they brown. Add garlic and ginger and cook for five
minutes. Stir constantly or it will stick. Add the hot
pepper, cumin and turmeric, cook for a half a minute
and remove from the heat.
Stir in the tomato, the beans and 2 cups of water,
Cook covered until beans are tender. Add water as
necessary to provide a good sauce.
Stir in the tamarind paste and simmer for ten min
utes. Add the roasted cumin seeds, garam massala,
and chadon bene. Cook for five minutes and remove
from heat; let sit for ten minutes before serving.
Tamarind Chutney
3/4 Cup water
1/4 Cup tamarind paste
1/3 Cup seedless raisins
1 Tablespoon sugar
1 teaspoon roasted cumin seeds, ground





































Dear Compass,
Thank you for publishing in the January issue the
letter from Gabriele Drucker on the exemption of for
1 f-r itional clearance in Venezuela.
I I ..... i i .i .... too late for us as we had already
done our national check-in from Margarita to Venezuela
in January. We had asked in Porlamar and in Puerto
La Cruz and no one really seemed to know the rules:
some continued to do it and others were ignoring it.
Now at least it is definitive. I shall keep that article
handy for our movements within Venezuela.
We are in Cumana having our boat painted at the
Navimca boatyard. The workers are doing a wonderful
job and we have no complaints. We are comfortable in
the yard and take the bus to the CADA supermarket,
the central market or to the boat stores downtown for
parts. I had a spot of basal cell carcinoma removed
from my nose by a surgeon for a very reasonable price
here also.
We cruised the Bahamas and Caribbean before leav
ing for a .. ....... .I. .. in 1995. Back then there
were also l i ii i,.i, and outboard thefts. We
would lock our 15 horsepower outboard to the stern
pulpit and haul our dinghy out by a halyard on the
side every night, and had a motion detector directed
at each. We continued to do this eve: .... 1. every
where around the world for our 20 .. iI11 time
cruising on the boat and we have never had a prob
lem. In areas of questionable security like Colombia,
the Mosquito Coast, the Pacific side of Panama, the
Malacca Straits and the Gulf of Aden, we always
waited to travel with a companion boat. The trend
toward violence and threats and -. ii;n. -.ptains
and crews who do not resist is ne i never
locked ourselves in our boat anywhere. We shall pur
chase another motion detector for the cockpit and
hopefully not have a problem.
We hope to see you out cruising.
Sandra and Paul Johnston
Yacht Quarterdeck

Dear Compass,
I wonder how many people will try the no-knead
bread recipe from Chris Doyle in the February issue
of Compass. Only those with air-conditioned galleys
and shares :. i .... .. ... .... .11 ...1 1 pre
heatan ove:. .1 i I. .i .11 .. .' .. .. bake
at that temperature, I should think. I stop reading
every time I see a recipe that says "bake for 30 min-
utes" (or more).
Could we have a series on recipes that can be done
on stove tops and that do not need ingredients that are
exotic to the Caribbean?
Sue Simons
S/V Lorensu

Dear Sue,
Someone sent us a great recipe for oven free boat
bread, but we lost his name (sorry!) and are reluctant
to publish the recipe without giving him the credit he
deserves. If the contributor of that recipe would get in
touch, we'll be happy to share his recipe in an upcom
ing issue.
CC

Dear Compass,
It seems as if I will never get to make any corrections
to Douglas Pyle's book, Clean Sweet Wind, and neither
would I want to, a lovely piece of work. However, fur
other to the caption that quoted Pyle under the photo of
Mermaid in the March issue, I will give the facts here.
Mermaid was launched on January 31, 1968. She is
a lot beamier than the 12 foot and 3 inches as taken
from that famous half model of Mermaid in the old
Mermaid Tavern in Carriacou, well over 13 feet actu
ally and she draws over 7 feet.
I ought to know, after 31 years, huh?
John Smith
Mermaid of Carriacou


Dear Compass,
I ' .. t ie article in the March 2008 issue of
5. h,,1 I .'.i,,i and comments about yacht attacks
in St. Vincent, I forwarded it to a friend who lives on
St. Vincent to get his opinion. Here is his response:
"Yes, it's very unfortunate. I would not say, however,
that these incidents are getting worse, more that when
one bad incident occurs it tends to attract a lot of
publicity. Where two or three incidents like this occur
in the same area, as in this case, it's very often the
same group -f F--Fpl -Ir-iny -lt th- -rime. If you
consider the i ...- ... I i- i, I. .. ... here every
year, and the level of crime against visitors, the truth
is that the percentage is still extremely low compared
with most other countries, including other Caribbean
islands (in particular St. Lucia, Antigua, St. Maarten
and St. Thomas).
"Aware of the insecurity at Chateaubelair, we have
always advised yachts not to stop there. We would, how
ever, disagree about Wallilabou and Cumberland where
the worst I've ever encountered after 26 years has been
'nuisance boat boys' rather than aggression or crime.
"The Coast Guard has, over the past year, been step
ping up its activity and patrols, as have the local
police, and the Government ministries have also taken
these incidents very seriously and done what they
humanly could to apprehend the perpetrators -usu
ally successfully. The last lot that got caught are now
enjoying 20 years in prison, and for the nature of the
prisons here, this is more akin to 150 years.
"Unfortunately crime exists everywhere and I'm afraid
that here is no exception. I'm certainly not trying to play
down this incident, but to put it more into perspective."
As someone who has enjoyed these islands without
incident (especially Wallilabou), I can only talk from
my experiences. We never leave our boat unlocked,
especially at night while onboard, just like our home
in the States. As for the couple who were attacked on
St. Martin, this would appear to be a random crime of
opportunity that could happen anywhere in the world
and I would say be more prone to happen in our home
towns than on a Caribbean island. Take their advice to
be careful and vigilant at all times.
Hopefully these island ---rnm-nti h-.,- begun to
realize that the increase I i I -I I ,,I- will have
a drastic effect on their economy and they better try
harder to minimize these crimes.
In the meantime, keep your eyes open and be safe.
John Wilson
S/V Double Down

Dear Compass,
I wish to respond to an article published in a recent
edition of Yachting Monthly and written by Dick
Durham, which alleges that "a mini-crime-wave has
hit St. Vincent & the Grenadines" with "vicious armed
attacks on yachtsmen in the last six weeks".
The article continued by further alleging that "other
attacks have taken place in Petit St. Vincent, Union
Island, Wallilabou and Young Island" and reports "a
story of one yachting couple's frightening experience
at the hands of armed pirates".
The article is based on a report written on January
4th by Steve Jones and communicated to a number of
websites including Yachting Monthly, Noonsite and Net
News. It gives an account of a violent attack by three
armed men against himself and his wife on December
27th, while anchored off Chateaubelair. While Mr.
Jones acknowledged Wallilabou as a "safe-ish" anchor
age, he proceeds to report on a supposed incident in
which a gang of 20-plus armed men raided the bay
recently and stole six dinghies and outboards in one
night, purportedly well-prepared with wire cutters and
other tools to accomplish their objectives.
While we sympathize with Mr. Jones and his family
over the tragic misfortune that occurred at
Chateaubelair, we unequivocally deny that any such

,i ,1 ,1 1 i i ] . i i ..1 ,i i i . i
more than our fair share of "boat boys", this bay has
had no incidents of violence perpetrated against any
visiting yachtsmen and only one dinghy has been lost
in the last year and a half. Over the years, we have
expended every effort to make Wallilabou a safe and
pleasant anchorage.
Yachting Monthly is regarded by the fraternity of
sailors as a distinguished, credible source of yachting
information. Statements made in that publication
have an indelible quality; once made, indictments will
linger, irreversible in the minds of John Public. In our
case, this will haunt us with deleterious effect for
years to come. These falsehoods about Wallilabou
have already created a furor of discussion in the
regional media, blog sites and within the general com-
munity. Blacklisting initiatives have also already been
taken by some charter companies.
I kindly ask that Yachting .I. .i .... -1.. .i these
allegations made in respect .11. .1 ...... effort
to get to the truth in this matter and provide the
opportunity for our exoneration.
Yours faithfully,
Stephen Russell
Managing Director
Wallilabou Bay Resort Limited, St. Vincent
Continued on next page


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-ontinued from previous page
Dear Caribbean Compass,
I would like to make your readers aware of a break-in
that occurred to my vessel, Anna Maria, in November
2007 in Woburn Bay along the south coast of Grenada.
I was at my home in California when the incident
occurred. The boat had been left on a so-called hurri
cane mooring, which I had rented from a local yacht
management company.
In retrospect, it seems easy to believe that certain
m-- ay gain a reputation for securing the boats
i owners, and boats found on such moor
ings may be inviting targets for would-be thieves. I
would caution your readers to think twice about
securing their boats on hurricane moorings while they
are away, because the moorings may be not so secure
after all.
Matthew Clegg
S/V Anna Maria

Dear Compass,
A wee, white ball of fluff, nine years ago, it cost a
"mil" (1000 Bolivars, or about 67 US cents) in the
local mercado in Puerto la Cruz, Venezuela. I asked
the surrogate "owner" (a girl around ten years old)
"gatita o gatito?" (Girl or boy kitten?) "Gatita" was her
reply. A girl kitty! Weighing a kilo and being a
Hispanic cat, I called her Milicent Kilo Mercado, a
proper name for such a precious cat! From that came
the nickname Mill.
At three months of age Milicent began to grow things
only MILTON has! But he remained Mili to me always.
He was born to be a boat cat. He loved the flying fish
that landed on the boat, even during passages at night.
He was nimble on board but as a kitten I took him for
dinghy rides and showed him the rope cat-ladder that
always hung down into the water. He'd play with bait
fish but once they were cut into bite-sized bits he'd
enjoy his snack. He was always a fish lover!
He was quick to learn good manners, and where and
where not to go. He also learned to play "fetch" with a
rolled-up napkin, a game he enjoyed. At times he
would carry on conversations with his terrycloth tur
tie, which he'd carry by its head. Later his Beanie Baby
ocelot was another of his favorite pets.
He was a hunter and in one seven-day period he
caught six birds but didn't kill any of them; it was just
a game. One put under my bed pillow and it wasn't
until making the bed the next morning that I found the
small, still body. I at once put it outside on the bimini
top and to my utter shock it flew away, no harm done!
Mili's favorite place to sleep was at the head of my
side of the bed with my hand resting on his back. Most
recently he slept on my pillow with his body touching
the top of my head. The pillow's not the same without
him. He seemed to need my body contact. He loved to
have the top of his head stroked. Wherever I was, he
was at my side; there was no 1' 11..... privacy.
Mill was my most constant f .... i i, ..... years and
as a companion he was the best!
After I picked him up from the vet's where he'd
passed away the night before, I had time to sit and
stroke his head and to have Missi, my other cat, see
him one last time, too. Then my friend called to say he
was ready to take us out for a proper burial at sea.
Straight out from my living room window, in the build
ing I now call home in Porlamar, Venezuela, beyond
the boats at anchor, we stopped the dinghy. With a
hand-held GPS we marked the spot where Mili's earth
ly body now sits: 1056.7 N, 6349.9W. At 0939 on
August 6th, 2007, and after one verse of Amazing
Grace, we let the weighted bag overboard and so I said
good-bye to my favorite boat cat Mili!
Sandi Pomeroy
Porlamar, Margarita

Dear Compass Readers,
Hello all from sunny Grenada. I came down here yes
terday morning (February 24th) from Carriacou, .1....
down the windward or eastern shore of Grenada. II
of you ever get the chance to do such a thing I highly
recommend it. The windward sides of these islands get
a lot of rain and the vegetation is much more lush. I
fished the whole way and didn't catch a thing.
I've spent the last month between Bequia and
Carriacou. I met a total of 15 people from Martha's
Vineyard on Bequia and they were all on the island at
the same time. -..1.... to Carriacou and who
should pass me i I II .1 .. on a charter boat with
eight Vineyarders aboard. I just couldn't shake them,
so now I'm gonna make a run for it downwind.
I ran into some good people in Carriacou. My old
buddy Speedy John was there on Gaucho. I put a
dutchman in the bottom of his mizzenmast in a sweet
little boatyard on the beach. Had a roof over it to keep
off the sun and a cool breeze coming through all the
time to keep it cool. I met a nice local named Hope who
kept me stocked with local knowledge and a few fish
for my supper. Met a Wylo sloop named Flower (I
think) and found out Nick Skeats (designer of the
Wylo) was headed up from Africa trying to make the
Classic Yacht Regatta in April in Antigua. They said he
left in late December so he could pop up any day.
There were a lot of sailing dinghies to race in Tyrell
Bay, Carriacou, and I managed to beat them all. Only


one I haven't beat is Dan's of Spindrift. I beat him
downwind but to weather he can point higher. I hope
to see him the next time through and then we shall see
for sure. Sometimes tactics are more important than
speed. Saw Hutch and had fun sailing around with
him almost every day I was there. I ran into Bananas
and had a pizza with him.
When I pulled in here yesterday the Grenada Classic
Yacht Regatta's first race was finishing. I managed to
cross the line second but I was coming the wrong way!
Seems the race started in St. George's. All those poor
guys had to beat all the way here whereas I came in
downwind. Anyway, Emma fits right in with the class
sics. It's kinda good I'm here as there are only a hand
ful of classic yachts in the regatta.
So now that I've reached the very bottom of the
Windward Islands my close-reaching days are over for
a while and I get to turn west and head downwind. It
is 1400 miles to Roatan Island, Honduras. Course is
due west -270. I have decided that with all the mug
gings happening in Venezuela at the present I'm gonna
give the whole place a miss. I may stop in Bonaire, as
it is Dutch and on the way. Thats 400 nautical miles
down the course. I can get ice and yogurt there. I am
estimating ten to 15 days for the passage. I plan to
stay about 80 miles north of the Venezuelan islands
and if I'm feeling good about everything I'll bypass
Bonaire.
Dennis White
Yacht Emma Goldman

Dear Compass,
Just wanted use this forum to say thanks to the
employees of Basil's Bar, Mustique, and Dr. Freddy for
their help. I was miserable and in pain, suffering with
my first fever blister -which turned out to be major
outbreak. My husband went ashore looking for a phar
macy and walked into Basil's Bar for information. The
bartender called Dr. Freddy and he opened the clinic
on a Saturday evening to see me. One of the waiters at
Basil's drove us to Dr. Freddy's clinic and waited to
bring us back to our dinghy. I was so grateful for all of
this help and kindness.
With medication in hand, we departed the next day
for Canouan and continued on our trip down island.
We could never have done it without their help and
kindness. My US doctor recommended that I be on
the prescribed medication longer than I had pills. My
husband went to the clinic on Canouan and they pro
vided the additional meds. Great care and kindness
on two islands!
Our five-month sailing odyssey has taken us from
Pass Christian, Mississippi, all the way to Aruba. Have
found your publication most informative and helpful.
We used the info in your publication to safely navigate
the Venezuelan waters. Is Compass available on line?
Thanks,
Monica Montagnet
Fidelis H

Dear Monica,
Thanks for sharing your positive experience.
Compass is available on line. An abridged version of
the monthly print edition is at www.caribbeancompass.
com. See our website also for details of on line subscrip-
tions to the entire publication.
CC

Dear Compass Readers,
Last year while visiting Las Aves Barlovento,
Venezuela, we and friends on S/V Jezebel and S/V
Forewinds spent hours collecting and bagging cans
and bottles left on the beaches by other cruisers. We
took all the cans and bottles and disposed of them
properly out at sea 12 miles off shore. At this time
cruisers also left fires burning when they sailed away
which almost destroyed the mangroves in the number
one anchorage.
You can imagine how disappointed we arc r-t;;r;.i;.
after nine months and finding the beaches :11 i .
and bottles. One beach in particular in the number
four *.-h-r .- where some boats had burnt garbage
and n I ..- of Euro Shopper beer cans, wine bot
tles and glass fancy preserve jars. Not the fishermen:
they don't have access to the Euro Shopper beer sold
only as far as we know in Curacao.
If you are going to burn garbage on the beaches
please separate it first and take the cans and glass
away and dispose of it properly.
These islands are very special and we feel privileged
to spend time here.
Please, please help to preserve this fragile ecosystem.
Keith and Vivienne Kirmond
S/V Victoria 2
Dear Compass,
[Editor's note: This is further to Scott Nichols' letter in
the January issue of Compass, warning other boaters
to beware of unbuoyed, floating, one-and-a half-inch
polypropylene mooring lines which were placed by a
liveaboard dive vessel operating in the Grenadines.
There was a response in the February issue from Peter
Hughes of Wind Dancer (Grenada) Ltd., who operates
what was assumed to be the dive vessel in question.]
Continued on next page


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Continued from previous page
S; .. t- Peter Hughes of Wind Dancer, your
.i i i I. missing mooring ball was not neces
sary. Everyone loses a marker buoy some time. But
when this happens, the riser should sink. Your moor
ing is a black floating poly riser and when the ball
is gone it stays there floating but unse i i .. I.
sails on a 75-foot schooner, I ran over .. i 1.
floating lines leaving Isle De Ronde three hours after
you left, fouling my prop and leaving my boat dead in
the water.
Scott Nichols
Schooner Satori
Dear Compass,
I'd like to respond to "Concerned Citizen" who in the
March edition of the Compass worried about tourists
being poisoned when eating food prepared by "school
drop-outs ..... 1 ... 1 ex-convicts who look for an
easy way ...
I believe it is a great way of trying to survive, by sup
plying the yachts with a service they obviously are
asking for. I do not for the life of me understand why
it would be more dangerous to eat a lobster cooked by
a school drop-out than eating it at an overpriced res
taurant where the seriously underpaid staff don't get
the incentive or training they need to care for the cus
tomers' well-being.
And I would happily buy a hundred lobsters barbe
cued by an ex-convict if that helps him to put food on
the table for his family, rather than seeing him forced
to go back to whatever criminal activity he was
involved in before, probably at the time also trying to
put food on the table.
I am sure that the yachting community is capable of
making their own "-irn-nt= whether they trust a
stranger to prepare .. I i or not. At least they get
to see the face of the person cooking, and they might
even also know his name and the name of his dinghy.
If some of these service providers are a bit overbearing,
let us then address it on a individual level instead of
trying to put down a whole community of working men
and women.


C


"Concerned Citizen" states they are looking for an
easy way to survive. I would say they are looking for
a way to survive. And any job that keeps them away
from growing i.... ...... ...... -tealing or begging
because their i II .... i i. that the jobs are
reserved for them, deserves our respect and contain
ued support.
I suspect that "Concerned Citizen" is really a restau
rant-owner. Why would he/she otherwise inform us in
the same letter that restaurant sales have gone down
50 percent? The reason some restaurants are not
doing well in St. Vincent & the Grenadines is because
they are not providing the quality of food, or type of
food, or price level, that the tourists want, like and
accept. I scarcely eat out in SVG simply because I can
cook the food much better in my own house, instead
of having a European youngster in his twenties playing
"international chef' in the kitchen and charging me an
arm and a leg for it.
Please sign me,
Another Concerned Citizen of St. Vincent & the
Grenadines

Dear Compass Readers,
We want to hear from YOU!
Please include your name, boat name or address, and
a way we can contact you (preferably by e-mail) if
clarification is required.
We do not publish individual consumer complaints or
individual regatta results complaints. (Kudos are okay!)
We do not publish anonymous letters; however, your
name may be withheld from print at your request.
Letters may be edited for length, clarity and fair play.
Send your letters to:
sally@caribbeancompass.com
or fax (784) 457-3410
or
Compass Publishing Ltd.
Readers' Forum
Box 175BQ
Bequia
St. Vincent & the Grenadines


PICK UP!

Ahoy, Compass Readers! When in the USVI, pick up your free monthly copy of
the Caribbean Compass at any of these locations. Advertisers in this issue are
in bold.


ST. CROIX:
Schooner Bay Market
(Christiansted)
ST. JOHN:
Connections (Cruz Bay)
Connections (Coral Bay)
Donkey Diner
Keep Me Posted
ST. THOMAS:
Red Hook
Sapphine Hotel Lobby
Sapphire Marina Office
Burrito Bay Deli
Island Marine
Coffee Cart
Molly Malone's
AYH Marina Office
Red Hook Mall
Yacht Club
Patsy's Place
(Compass Point)


Budget Marine
Randy's
Food Center
Pirate's Cove
SubBase
Tickles
Crown Bay Marina Office
Island Marine
Offshore Marine
Frenchtown Deli
Sandfill
Island Water World


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ST. THOMAS YACHT SALES
Compass Point Marina, 6300 Est. Frydenhoj, Suite 28,
St. Thomas, U.S.V.I. 00802

L Tel: (340) 779-1660
Fax: (340) 779-2779
w yachts@lslands.vi


44' 1982 Ta Chiao CT
$89,900
Sail
37' 2001 Bavaria Sloop, 3 strms, Yanmar diesel
40' 1986 Hunter Legend roomy, aft cockpit
40' 1987 O'Day Sloop, Westerbeke, 2 strms
43' 1995 Hunter 430, stepped transom, 2 strms

Power
14' 2006 Aquascan Jetboat, 160HP Yamaha
31' 1999 Sea Ray Sundancer, new engines, 2005
32' 1996 Carver 325, twin crusaders great condition
38' 1999 Sea Rav Sundancer, mercruisers, 18 kts,


$ 79,500
$ 69,000
$ 60,000
$119,000


$ 34,900
$ 79,900
$ 99,000
$167.000


"LiING OF VESEILS FOR 1


199 aD O>C*atMSte.siiEDUCEII l
1 V99 X W Hftdarrai30| xmoYaNI
IslB 31' SlelStocf RC
19M 36 IrLans Tw
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1'77 3X Roe tl l l W
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1%?7 3' W ra3t(PlloP .clQxl b uftl
1i%8 3 CibcL"Of S"s 40
117B 4W Alibc4D
19 4o* TSnB" mShubEtacImrdl)
196s 47 Endeaor4Pnjred.ald
19% T WuuezPSeloonc


umb~urfln
rSALE t LI e ArrfIP TU

US I$Sl.SOM I 4a G itU US 11S500
us W. 0 In FI'M aH a us $Mom 0
US S3.mlO 1999 45 Form au US $1500E.
US $45.DO3f0 1 441 4H'3 US $2.O0OO
US w.45moo I" I 5 Cteeb PthuM US 1$2B000
tUS 540.BW 1904 51' BneSWb US SW2O.QMWO
ill) US IT.50 198 8 mllSa U S.OLDIIO
Us $B.9OI im95 53 Sw rnImu*T oiind" US 4SOwC
US hM.13m0 1N82 5 HatKraLl-xqcner US $M4.O00
US $229.0m0 1994 SS Or*1H US S77.0l00
US sm.o. m ss 9 s A mH yiw us sm.ocno
US & SOMM 1 5 ZSfUMolrSaleri US SBS.WOwO
ELU 247=.00 1973 56 VA" wr Y-14 us 35.0=00,-


F uCatnaarnan t 1e
Carc s Catnrm
Upon Ca jReind c uf w& e'il
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Clai&nat7nW*
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US $195000
us mse.r
US 33D.mom
US $16 0000


UiSSI.00MM
US :.$3000.
U S 1. 19O000 00


Letter of



the Month


Dear Compass,
Yacht racing in the Caribbean is thriving, but many Caribbean regattas include
wide varieties of boats in one class. This sometimes leads not only to quarrels about
handicap ratings, but occasionally to dangerous situations.
About 30 years ago the w< 1 .1 .... disappeared from the yacht racing rules
in an effort to simplify and I 'iI 1 ... i As long as boats are of similar size and
speed, the elimination of the old rule "overtaking boat keep clear" has caused few
problems for those who know the rules.
However, as explained by John Doerr in his excellent article on racing rules enti
tied "Proper Course" in the January 2008 issue of Yachting World magazine, when
you have boats of different sizes with considerable differences in speed, sailing on
the same legs of a course and rounding the same marks, things can get very compli
cated. Even those who know the rules can interpret them differently, causing confu
sion and, in some cases, accidents.
I personally know of five serious accidents involving a much faster big boat over
taking a slower, smaller boat and causing serious damage. One smaller boat, a
ketch, lost both masts. Another, a yawl, suddenly became a sloop. In the third case,
the smaller boat's mast tore the larger boats main, opening it up luff to leach. But
the leach line held, almost capsizing anc i.-... --i,. i.he smaller boat. In the final
two cases, the smaller boats were sunk. i 1 ...11 know five serious accidents,
how many have happened worldwide?
I not only know of five disasters, but over the years I have witnessed at least a
dozen near disasters -all caused by larger, faster boats overtaking smaller, slower
boats in tight situations.
In all cases all boats were competently crewed by crews that knew the racing rules,
but since the word "overtaking" has disappeared from the racing rules, as soon as
an overlap exists the overtaking boat has rights that complicate the issue.
In the case of the small boat opening up the sail of the larger boat with its mast,


The overtaking boat must keep clear.

If there is a protest or collision,

the onus is on the overtaking boat to prove

that she used her best efforts to keep clear'




the helmsman and tactician of the larger boat were an ACC helmsman and tactician.
Not only that, but when they were disqualified, they later complained bitterly at the
bar about the incompetence of the protest committee, despite that fact that some
members of the protest committee were highly regarded international judges.
In the light of the accidents and near accidents, many competitors who have sailed
in regattas where there is a great difference in speed in the competing boats feel that
a relevant rule should be inserted in the racing instructions.
The inserted rule should be something to the following effect: The overtaking boat
must keep clear. If there is a protest or collision, the onus is on the overtaking boat
to prove that she used her best efforts to keep clear.
Some race committee members with whom I have discussed this feel that it is not
permissible to alter the racing rules, but I have checked with two senior internal
tional judges who say that this can be done. They say it is not changing the rules, it
is merely adding to the existing rules.
If this were done, it would do much to eliminate the collisions caused by larger,
faster boats overtaking smaller, slower boats.
Don Street
Ireland


Call, fax or visit our website for a complete list of boats for sale
www.stthomasyachts.com



-A


r


CREW VACANCIES!

Semail: crew@tradewindscruiseclub.com
TradeWinds Cruise Club operate a fleet of catamarans across
TRADEFMIND six destinations in the Caribbean.
We are the fastest growing charter company,
operating TERM CHARTERS, all inclusive, 7 days.
We are looking for crew, mainly teams in the form of a Captain and a Chef/Hostess.
We prefer couples that are married OR have been living together for at least a year.
The nature of the job is such that the better the understanding and teamwork
between Captain and Chef the more successful your charters will be.
Requirements: Captain with a Skipper's licence.
Chef/Hostess with a basic understanding of cooking.
Dive master/ instructor for either the Captain and/or Chef is a plus.
We offer full training onsite in the Caribbean.
This is a FUN job with great earning potential. If you are willing to work hard and
have a positive disposition to life this could be your DREAM job.
Anyone with an interest is welcome to apply.
If you would like more information about this job or send your CV to us, please
use this email address:
crew(tradewindscruiseclub.com
or by mail to: Bequia Marina, P.O.Box 194BQ, Port Elizabeth,
Bequia, St Vincent & the Grenadines
Tel. St Vincent +784 457 3407 Tel. St Maarten +599 5510550


Ir


$33,500


















CAUGHT IN A NET


We were anchored in Wallilabou Bay, St. Vincent, with a stern line tied to a palm
tree on the beach. One morning I laughed when my nine-year old son said:
"Dad, those fishermen are laying their net around us!"
"Oh, don't worry son," I said, "I'm sure they know what they're doing."
For the time being I paid no more attention, until ten minutes later, with a rap on
the hull, I heard:
"Hey mon, pass me de end of yo' anchor chain."
Sure enough, the net which had been launched from the beach on one side of us,
rowed out in an arc and landed on the other side of us, had now been hauled in
fairly tightly and the only thing preventing the completion of this communal fishing
venture was the fact that we were anchored squarely in the middle. The spokesman
for the group assured me:
"No problem, mon, jus' pass me de end of yo' chain and we go' pass de net under
yo' keel."
Now there were two reasons that I wasn't going to pass him the bitter end of my
anchor chain. Firstly, there remained about 30 meters of chain in the chain locker,
which I really didn't fancy pulling out and passing to him, even if I thought that he
could stand the weight of it, balanced on his small rowing boat, as he was. Secondly,
with the beach only 20 meters astern of us, I really didn't want to hand him the only
i.... ,i. t was holding us off, namely the chain and anchor! So I swore at him a lot.
S mc I 11. i.... we go' do is we go' lift yo' anchor over de net, so we can
pull de net i i i
"I forbid you to touch the anchor," I said, swearing some more, as he proceeded to
jump overboard, attach a rope to our anchor, pull it up and dump it unceremoni
ously beyond the net. Sure enough, the group on the beach hauled the net under us
and successfully landed their catch!
Meanwhile, we buoyed and cast off the stern line, lifted and re-laid the anchor and

.. .f



?/


'You want me to do what?'


as we came back in astern, I was in such a rage that I managed to tangle the buoyed
stern line in the propeller!
There is often a lesson to be learnt from situations such as these. I feel that in this
case the lesson must be:
Don't swear at people, it doesn't help!
In front of all his friends the spokesman could not have backed down and removed
his net. I should have realized this and worked with him, perhaps by laying out the
small kedge anchor over his net, before lifting the main anchor.


Ever thought of building your own boat?
,'J ; h* I range of over 50 designs in
r.,r.:h ,-,.,1 Tape or Glued Lap..ri a l
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r haven't alrea.1, .T.i1-e a
I ** the design y.:,u i nr. I
p, -o pbably can.
Jri; Low freight rr;: -n-i-d
_, est Line, we ,: n -. :.ip IjJ I
plywood kit: r.:, rr, ..,:
i it i i tS- ,r:.
p w de,.. I: u,


WW.jordanboats. c

*Subject to copyright permission Tel: +4z 15' 5 i 16 --


DYNAMITE
YACHT MANAGEMENT VICO
SKINNER'S YARD CHAGUARAkAS, TRINIDAD W I
Tel 86W)34-4t3 634-868 Fax (B6B) 634426
Contact Frances at dynamlte@tstt.nett
m.yachtworld.com/dynamltebrokerage
www.dynamtemarlne.om


YACHTSd

YACHTS


Large selection of Yachts & Power Boats




_heate ba- ndya'cll co l ai@ba tla dyaht-:









heaer@ayis andyactlls.comn. alain bayslardyachts corm


MULTIHULLS:' H 1..-.d. P,, v *v- : .. I hI 139K
47 Lagoon 470'99,4Cb/l5hd 359K 42 Benr.itau OIt.arsan 2 0 CC c ib 149K
46'FP Bahia 01i03,4cab/4hd2avail. 370K 1I '.r .- I ...I i-.i.- : : ',1 : hd 89K
43'FPBelize'0,4cab/2 hd 290K 41 Moigl nCi3rlnj CC 87 2 cb ind 9SK
41 Lagoon410'01.4cab/4hd 289K Ii bt.-il .' ..- I ] i i . r 114K
40 Fount Pnal La ri 0l b'i ab2 hd 295K 40'Dufourr4&05,o0gp,3C ab/1 hdi 229K
j J...-.rI I...Ij- J 0 1 : a : I... 40'JBoatJ/12097,2 ab/1 hd 195K
SAIL: 40 Baip1eIIIB4 Ftlch Lib I hd 99K
53sGenmanFren'01,Ketch,3cab/2hd 239K II j-ir.r.-,il "..'-* l' I 109K
.. ..." ab 425K Y 7T 1ll p:n i PFII eaisP anj 3.Curnwr 125K
S0Biewei Cusromeich auiOC clab 70K'" f... "' I--. *' 1I 159K
50'Beneteau 505 cab/5hd,2 avail. 150K M rIgan i(nCC 8b : ca I hd 99K
47BeneteauOceanis473'03,3cab 225K "' -.n.- ... ... -I, ". -I ,.; 89K
47'GulfstarSailMaster'79,2cab/2hd 75K i6 Benereu .ldlle -8' 2cab 62K
46'CRhodesCustom Ketch'84,2cab 2491K '- ;..1 r,,. : .I 11.1 72K
46' Hunter460'01,4 cab 169K 36'S2 11.0A'85,1 cabil qrt brth/t hd 39K1(
45 Wluquirt 1MS45 90 3 ;.a, 2 h, 249K I'" '. I1 CC'97.2 cab/I hd 139K
11.ltI.1 O, -,t i-,, 165K PIW I E
44'Beneteau 44CC'94,2 cab12hd 1891 58'HatterasYachtfish'77,3c b/3hd 367K
43' C&C Ketch'82 CC, 2 cab/2 hd 109K S5'HorizTn Motor Yacht 01 4cab3hd 690K
43 J an Sun Odv S 41cib iii. 165K 48'SunseektrMnnharttnr'97,3cab 379K
1 I .,, u. ...r., ... l 1 r..1 125K 42'Hi-StarTrawler88, 2cab/2hd 199K
42"Beneteau423'0722cab/2 hd 259K 10 H er,a-l Eajl J) kI 2 avail 167K
a ; lll,,,i, ,, rIk .,..i ,lI' nj 22g9 K A. b I t 11 .1 129 K
42 Hunte i d ook n 2a d 199K I w w.bviyachtsales.com
1: une.11, =jlM jd n


DON'T
LEAVE PORT
WITHOUT IT






COMPASS










0
Ciriba Cops Iare Place


Antigua


MAarker in. Advertising, Consultancy,
Design, Pnoroa.larp.. Art.
www.chetlucy.rmn *1 268 720 6868

Azores

MID ATLANTIC
YACHT SERVICES
PT-9900-144 HORTA / FAIAL, AZORES
TEL +351 292 391616
FAX +351 292 391656
mays@mail.telepac.pt
www.midatlanticyachtservices.com
Providing all vital
Services & Repairs for Trans-Atlantic Yachts
Electronics, Chandlery, Rigging
Bunkered Fuel (+10,0001t)
EU-VAT (15%) Importation

Bequia

0 TEAK US$10-11/BF

0 MARINE PLY

0 HARDWOOD

eCaribean Woods
Bequia, St. Vincent
Phone: (784) 457-3000
caribwoods@vincysurf.com





in Lower Bay, Bequia
Come and find us amongst the trees!
Candlelight Dinners
Monday to Saturday
Please Reserve!



Curacao

SFor a safe berth...
S SERU BOCA

[ We sell
and service
SYamaha engines
stbarba@attglobal.net
www.santabarbaraplantation.com


Dominica
UNIQUE IN DOMINICA
S Roseau & Portsmouth
Tel 767-448-2705 Fax 767448-7701
f DockmasterTel 767-275-2851 VHF 16
info@dominicamannecenter com
C www dominicamannecenter com
The Dominica Marine Center is the
home of the Dominica Yacht Club
and your center for
* Yacht Moonng Anchorage Grocery Store & Provisioning
* Bakery (Sukie's Bread Company) Water at dock Fuel
(Unleaded / Diesel) Ice Yacht Chandlery agents Budget
Manne /Sea Choice Products Mercury Manne / Yanmar Manne
* LP Gas (propane) refills Showers & Toilets (WC) Garbage
Disposal Secunty Telephone & Fax Mobile Phone Rental/
SIM Top Up Laundry WiFi Internet Beach Bar Nearby
Restaurants Taxi & Tour Operators Whale Watching & Sport
Fishing Light Engine and Boat Repair Customs/ Immigration
Clearance Information Visa / Master Card accepted


Martinique

^ A r '- II COP-


THE SPECIALIST FOR
BOAT MAINTENANCE
IN MARTINIQUE


Grenada


TechNick Ltd.
Engineering, fabrication and
welding. Fabrication and repair of
stainless steel and aluminium items.
Nick Williams, Manager
Tel: (473) 536 1560/435 7887
S.I.M.S. Boatyard, True Blue, Grenada
technick@spiceisle.com
...................................o
Marine Survey throughout the Caribbean



PURCHASE INSURANCE DAMAGE
Bob Goodchild
Accredited Marine Surveyor
Society of Accredited Marine Surveyors
RYA Ocean Yachtmaster (Commercial)
Accreditation -American Boat and Yacht Council
Tel: Grenada (+1 473) 407 4388
surveyor@flyingfishventures.com


Guadeloupe


Phone (+596) 596 74 77 70
carenantilles.marin @ wanadoo.fr
www.carenantilles.com



TOU LE UTEAIX TOUI LS CMFAUM

0 BKHIK J
Boisson-GIce-Gaz-Uibre seracae-Lwts
Horlrm i NON STOP de Th 19h I
Fermd IF Dlmancha I
CTAE OE CAENAMCE 97290 LE MAN
T : W9 74 70 94 FAX : 096 74 78 08



Voiles Assistance
Didier and Maria
LE MARIN/MARTINIQUE
Sails & Canvas (repairs & fabrication]
located at Carenantilles dockyard
Open Monday to Friday 8- 1 2am 2-6pm
Saturday by appointment
tel/fax: (596] 596 74 88 32
e-mail: didier-et-maria@wanadoo.fr

continued on next page -


AKR










Cairbbea ComassMairaketPla


Martinique

A&C Yacht Brokers
EBalrau neufs ct d'* casion
C-x*--K yfM^E'<^d^^

oeimrqnrAMlT O.92 8.i7.6




Shipchandler
Accaslillage






St Maarten

S CIRExpress
COURIER SERVICES
St. Maarten/ St. Martin, collect
and deliver door to door

ST. MAARTEN
Packages Pick up call:
+ (599) 553-3850 / + (590) 690-222473
Int. 001-3057042314
E-mail: ericb@megatropic.com

St Vincent

Barefoot Yacht Charters
.& Marine Centre
*j Blue Lagoon, St Vincent
Bareboats -Fully Crewed Yachts
ASA Sailing School -Full Service Marine Centre
1 784-456-9526 / 9334


Trinidad


0
DOCTORS 'Lkuntr~M
Wv ftx -1, b..W"

L AiW1 Rcbuikh
I TRuutie %NsLn11


UANTUM

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ELECIROPICS


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ACR


Caribbean-wide


Iviarine uistriuuTors
www.lslandWaterWorld.com
sales@lslandWaterWorld.com
St Thomas, St Maarten,
St Lucia, Grenada
P: 599-544-5310 F: 599-544-3299

CARIBBEAN CHANDLERIES
BUDGET See our ad
on the
MARINE inside cover
The Caribbean's
N Leading Chandlery


Home of the
5 Year 50,000
Mile Guarantee



DOYLE
SAoeLMAXit na,
f*-dviecaribbeainxam


With trivior
IOCAIn~l from
Ntnilo RICO to
Panama,;


THIS COULD BE


YOUR
MARKET PLACE AD
Book it now:
tom@caribbeancompass.com
or contact your local island agent


Trinidad


To advertise in Caribbean Compass Market Place,
contact your island agent (see list on page 4) or
contact Tom at (784) 457 3409
tom@caribbeancompass.com















CLASSIFIED


VENUS 46, 1984 KETCH fiber-
glass, gc, new engine, very
well equipped, excellent
live aboard and cruiser
US$199,000, lying St. Lucia.
For more info and pictures
i i -, .. '. ," E-m a il
, = .


3 i ficr r A t C : if

Saltwater Series OBs, cabin
w/head, new canopies/
upholstery throughout,
deck shower, GPS, lovely
condition and runs beauti-
fully. Fantastic buy at
US$60,0O0 Tel (784) 457-5302
E-mail beachbar@hotmail.com







lOtt -r- -.Ou i : -

upgrades, ready to sail
located Palm Island, SVG.
Info on www.artandsea.com.
Ti -- 1 E al:







.a. *ail OO' i' "
Yanmar diesel, shoal draft,
sleeps 5 with V-berth settee
and dbl quarter berth, 62"
headroom. Lying St.
Vincent. Contact Gildas
Courrier Tel (784) 432-1767
E-mail laureetgildas@yahoo.fr


36HP YANMAR OUTBOARD
DIESEL Trinidad Tel
S" A : " i E-mail

2 X 54FT FIBERGLASS
CATAMARAN HULLS
I E-mail
it, L111,II ADOO iI :CH I T I 1 1,-i- r n r
Perkins 106hp Interior/exteri-
orrefit Nov. 07, 4 dbl cabins,
ood sais, yingov. in Martiniqe BOATS FOR SALE IN TRINIDAD
oodsail lying in Marinique
45,000s Euros E-mail Tel (868) 739-6449
dbouquet@asericharter.com www.crackajacksailing.net
AVON lIFT JET SKI DINGHY
84hp, 2 years old.
US$10,000 OBO E-mail
info@FirstMateLtd.com


Admiral 38 Catamaran. Fr
Sale Summer 2008. You can


| I


Ai





--
j.i ,':/. i.:.r.t titK:-. a

Ior dive boat,
-=-- some mechanical/
work Sol- '-
Furuno radar, short -



GRAAL 49 CATAMARAN 4
guest cabins w/heads, gour-
met galley up, large salon w/
settee and bar area comfort-
ably accomodates 8 persons,
crew cabin. Located
Grenada $275,000 info and
photos www.graall99.fr
PACIFIC SEACRAFT
CREALOCK 34 highly regard-
ed blue water cruiser US$75K
Details on www.Detetheno-


FRIENDSHIP BAY, BEQUIA
Lovely 1250 sq ft. cottage,
100 yards from beach. 2
master bedrooms, 1 guest
bedroom, full kitchen, aun-
dry, level with road no
stairs! 12,558 sq ft of land,
fenced with mature
fruit trees. US$320,000, Term
rental available. E-mail
jocelyne.gaufier@wanadoo.fr

CARRIACOU, ONE ACRE LOTS
and multi acre tracts. Great
views overlooking Southern
Grenadines and Tyrrel Bay
www.caribtrace.com

BEQUIA PROPERTIES A clas-
sic Belmont villa in 1 acre
2,00000 US. The Village
Apartments Business
1,890,000US Admiralty Bay
900,0DOUS Spring Villa
1,750,000US LowerBay
1.600,0DUS, Friendship
320 000US, Moonhole
750 000US, relax & enjoy
Bequia life.
Tel (784) 455 0969 E-mail


BEQUIA, Lower Bay, Bells
Point, House and Land.
Serious buyers only. Sale by
owner. Call (784) 456 4963


BEQUIA HOMEMADE BREADS
& Ckes made fresh every day
Whdewheat, multghdn, banna
bread, herbs & flc, butte cre-
cens. To place crder Tel (784)
457-3527/433-3008 E-mail
beqdasweefeppi@ychoo.com
Orders are delivered FREE

NIMRODS RUM SHOP, GRENADA
Eggs, bread, cheese, ice on
sale. Taxi service available,
propane tank fill-up,
personal laundry service.
Happy Hour every day from
5-pm Moonlight party every
full moon. VHF 16
BEQUIA BEQUIA CANVAS
Interior/exterior/customized
canvas specialist
T-i -J j- E mail

CARIBBEAN VIRTUAL OFFICE
providing concierge, cater-
ing, errand services, mail
management and forward-
ing, bill payment, purchas-
ing, sourcing, reservations
and a host of other services.
Tel (473) 404-2707
ST. VINCENT NZIMBU ARTS &
CRAFTS for high quality indig-
enous banana craft and
djembe drum Tel (784)
457-1677/531-2897 www.
nzimbu-browne.com E-mail
nzimbu200O@yahoo.com
UNDERWATER DIVING
SERVICES salvage/emer-
gency/moorings/lift bags.
All underwater services el
(473) 537-9193/538-4608
E-mail fashionboat@yahoo.fr
WATERMAKERS Complete
systems, membranes, spares
and service available at
Curacao and Puerto La
Cruz, Venezuela.
Check our prices at

416-3824187


madcom Tel (473) 415-1026 after 6pm. E-mail lulleym SERVICE ADMINISTRATOR
vincysurf.com needed for busy Marine
Industrial Service business in
S- Road Town, Tortola, BVI.
Must have excellent organi-
MASTS TURBULENCE national skills, ability to write
GRENADA One new Selden PUERTO LA CRUZ, VENZ. service reports and prepare
17m inmast furler/ 2 INSURANCE SURVEYS, elec- warranty claims, strong
spreader sets/ steps trical problems and yacht communicational skills, pro-
suitable for monohull. deliveries. Tel Cris Robinson ect management and cost
Tel (473) 439-4495/415-8271 (58) 416-3824187 E-mail accounting skills, and the
E-mail turbsail@spiceisle.com crobinson@telcel.net.ve ability to handle quality


control issues. Mechanical
background with marine
experience preferred. Fax
CV (284) 494-6972 E-mail
tom@partsandpower.com
SVG-MAINIENANCE MANAGER
Must have extensive knowl-
edge in the yachting industry,
3 years experience in a mana-
gerial position, experience in
mechanics, electronics &
electrical, fiberglass work &
rigging, good oral & written
communication skills and be
able to work, train and super-
vise others. Boat building skills
& experience will be an asset.
The successful applicant
responsible for managing fleet
up to ninety yachts. E-mail
svgyachts@vincysurf.com
FIRST MATE POSITION
OFFERED on 76' private
yacht for an experienced
and qualified seaman avail-
able now with Captain
license, radio, radar, STCW
95 Basic Fire Fighting,
Personal Survival Techs, First
Aid, Personal Safety & Social
Responsibility. Attractive
salary, E-mail resume, pic-
ture and contact details
E-mail algcapt@yahoo.com
or call Frances for interview
Tel (784) 457-0736
SVG-CHEF Primary responsibili-
ties ensure a high quality prod-
uct create a positive, upbeat
environment for our guest &
staff, train & develop staff,
deliver a geat service experi-
ence to our guests, maintain
proper cost controls. Job qual-
ifications, international cuisine,
2 years experience
as a Head Chef. E-mail
svgrestaurant@vincysurf.com
FEMALE WITH NEW 44'
CATAMARAN seeksfriendwith
sailing experience to cruise
Caibbean & shae expenses.
Tel (784) 49-1393 E-mail
yachtmeka@kingsley.co.za
SALESPERSON NEEDED for
busy marine chandlery in St.
Thomas, VI. Experience in
marine retail and/or boat
maintenance preferred.
Must be US citizen. See
www.budgetmarine.com
for detailed job description.
Please send resume E-mail
Paige.Passano@budget-
marine.com
RIGGING TECHNICIAN with
experience needed for


Turbulence Sails Pick Bay oca-
tion Tel (473) 439-4495 E-mdl
Richard turbdence@spicele com
INDEPENDENT REFIT
SPECIALIST needed for 55'
trimaran. Rigging/mechani-
cal/cosmetic work, In the
water, Bequia .E-mail daf-
fodil_harris@yahoo.com
TORTOLA ARAGORNS
STUDIO looking for 2 employ-
ees.Welder/Workshop man-
ager and shop assistant
required at our busy Art
Studio in Trellis Bay, BVI.ldeal
candidates are a couple
with artistic inclination living
on their own boat and look-
ing for shore side employ-
ment in a US$ economy. Still
interested to hear from a
lone welder! Info contact
Aragorn Tel (284) 495-1849
E-mail dreadeye@surfbvi.com
MARINE TECHNICIAN
WANTED IMMEDIATELY
Respected Marine
Engineering Co, in Grenada
seeking all around experi-
encedtechnician for diesel,
electrical, electronics,
water makers & refrigera-
tion. Ideal for cruiser or
independent tech looking
for the stability of an estab-
lished company in Gr
enada CV to; E-mail
enzamarine@caribsurf.com
Tel (473)439-2049




EC$1/US 400 per word -
include name, address and
numbers in count. Line draw-
ings/photos accompanying
classified are EC$20/U4$8.




KEEP THE

ISLANDS
BEAUTIFUL...


Dispose of

your
garbage
properly!!


Admiral Yacht Insurance
Anjo Insurance
Antigua Classic Regatta
Art Fabrnk
B & C Fuel Dock
Barefoot Yacht Charters
Basil's Bar
Bay Island Yachts
Bequia Marina
Bogles Round House
Budget Marine
BVI Yacht Sales
By Design
Camper & Nicholsons
Captain Gourmet
Caralbe Greement
Caralbe Yachts
Carenantilles
Carene Shop
Cooper Marine
Corea's Food Store Musbque
Curagao Marine
Diesel Outfitters


UK 49 Discovery Marigot
Antigua 8 Dockwise Yacht Transport
Antigua 8 Dopco Travel
Grenada 37 Dors Fresh Food
Petite Martinique 43 Down Island Real Estate
St Vincent 35 Doyle Offshore Sails
Mustique 45 Doyle's Guides
Trinidad 51 Echo Marine Jotun Special
Bequla 44 Errol Flynn Marina
Carriacou 43 Falmouth Harbour Marina
Sint Maarten 2 Food Fair
Tortola 51 Franglpani Hotel
Antigua 47 Fred Marine
Grenada 24 Gourmet Foods
Union Island 46 Grenada Marine
Martinique 13 Grenadine Island Villas
Guadeloupe 49 Grenadines Sails
Martinique 25 GRPro-Clean
Martinique 32 lolaire Enterprises
USA 42 Island Dreams
Mustique 44 Island Water World
Curagao 6 Johnson Hardware
St Maarten 42 Jones Maritime


St Lucia
Martinique
Grenada
Bequia
Carriacou
Tortola
USA
Trinidad
Jamaica
Antigua
Grenada
Bequia
Guadeloupe
St Vincent
Grenada
Bequia
Bequia
Martinique
UK
Grenada
Sint Maarten
St Lucia
St Crolx


Jordan Boats
KP Marine
Lagoon Marina Hotel
Lagooniville
LIAT
Lulley's Tackle
Mac's Pizza
Mclntyre Bros Ltd
Navimca
Northern Lights Generators
Peake Yacht Brokerage
Perkins Engines
Petit St Vincent
Ponton du Bakoua
Port Hole Restaurant
Prickly Bay Marina
Renaissance Marina
Salty Dog Sports Bar
Santa Barbara Resorts
Schip-O-Case
Sea and Sail
Sea Services
Seminole Marine


UK
St Vincent
St Vincent
St Thomas
Caribbean
Bequia
Bequia
Grenada
Venezuela
Tortola
Trinidad
Tortola
PSV
Martinique
Bequia
Grenada
Aruba
Bequia
Curagao
Guadeloupe
Guadeloupe
Martinique
Guadeloupe


Shelter Bay Marina
Silver Diving
Simpson Bay Marina
Soper's Hole Marina
Spice Island Marine
St Thomas Yacht Sales
Superwind
SVG Air
SVG Tourism
Sweet Cry Antigua
Tikal Arts & Crafts
Trade Winds Cruising
True Blue Bay
Turbulence Sails
Tyrrel Bay Yacht Haulout
Vemasca
Virgin Gorda Yacht Harbour
Volvo
Wallace & Co
Wallilabou Anchorage
Xanadu Marine


Panama
Carriacou
St Maarten
Tortola
Grenada
St Thomas
Germany
St Vincent
St Vincent
Anbgua
Grenada
Bequia
Grenada
Grenada
Carriacou
Venezuela
Virgin Gorda
Marlnique
Bequia
St Vincent
Venezuela













Marine Conservation
Education Campaign
for Youth
On March 25th the Whale and Dolphin Conservation
Society (WDCS) announced a new educational initial
tive in the Caribbean region with the launch of its "Live
Free in the Sea" campaign in partnership with the
Eastern Caribbean Cetacean Network (ECCN).
The "Live Free in the Sea" 2008 program will educate young
people in Saint Lucia, Saint Vincent & the Grenadines,
Grenada, and Tobago about how their actions on land can
affect beaches, reefs and marine life.










ECCN island coordinators will be partnering with
primary and secondary schools to conduct activities
under this theme. The program on each island will
consist of environmental education, environmental
action, and an artistic component (for example, music,
performing arts, functional or aesthetic art). Children
will participate in lectures, discussions and activities
on the coastal and marine environment, their inhabit
ants and how their actions impact them. Whales and
dolphins, sea turtles and coral reefs and mangroves
will be topics of focus.
In Tobago, children took part in a beach clean-up on
Turtle Beach, where the litter collected will be recycled
to make functional art. This is the main nesting site of
endangered leatherback and hawksbill sea turtles on
Tobago. In Saint Lucia, children will participate in a
whale and dolphin watching tour, and research and
write a children's book for the school library on whales
and dolphins that migrate through their waters. In
Grenada, participants in the program will produce a
video that will be distributed to the local cable chan
nel. In Bequia, Saint Vincent & the Grenadines, chil
dren will take part in a beach clean-up, where col
elected bottlecaps will be used to make a large sea
themed mural for display in the community.
For more information contact ECCN Director Nathalie
Ward at nath51 verizon.net.



CARRIACOU REAL ESTATE

Land and houses for sale
For full details see our website:
www.islandvillas.com
or contact Carolyn Alexander at
Down Island Ltd
e-mail: islander@caribsurf.com
Tel: (473) 443 8182 Fax: (473) 443 8290

We also handle Villa Rentals &
Property Management on Carriacou



CARIBBEAN ISLANDS SOLUTION

PR A R C 0 MOUNT
0 CR
A f5~ H MMo
L O I E P U E
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A I I j

A 9 ITT K I I8 T 8 S A 3 U
L M A R T I I u


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"Hf ot kr "RPm m or about Blan Wher, the only Ahried &aer of EVMUa.
amiable hbo? VirCsit and WNter b-rd -.-- I
St. Thomas, U.S.V.I. St. Maarten, N.A St. Maarten, NA. St. Lucia, Wl. Grenada, WI. Grenada, WI.
YIcht Haven Grand Cole Bay Bobby Marina Rodney BSy Marina 51. George Grenada Marine
Tel: 340 714 0404 Tal 599.544.5310 Tel: 599.543,7119 Tel: 758.452.1222 Tel: 473.435,2150 Tel: 473,443.1028
Fan: 340 714.0405 Fax: 599.544.3299 Fax: 599.542.2675 Fax: 758.452.4333 Fax: 473.435.2152 Fax: 473,443 1038
Prices may vary In St. Thomas, St. Lucia and Grenada as a result of customs charges and environmental levies.
Island ~ ~ Wae Wol Main DitiuosCww san~trol~c ilsRsadae~rdc


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