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Yacht Moorings Installed in Nevis
Spencer Hanley of the Nevis Air and Sea Ports Authority reports: I am happy to
inform you that our yacht moorings are installed: 100 in total, from Oualie Beach to
Gallows Bay. Five of these (in Gallows Bay) will be "quarantine" buoys for yachts
arriving to clear in to Nevis; 90 will take yachts up to 60 feet (or 50 tons); and five will
take yachts up to 90 feet (80 tons). The moorings are designed to withstand winds
up to 60 mph while occupied. We will designate a safe area where yachts over 90
feet can drop anchor.
Most of the moorings are placed in three tiers along the stretch from the southern
end of Pinney's Beach (in front of the Double Deuce restaurant) north to Sunshine's,
just south of the Four Seasons Resort. Legislation governing the use of the moorings is
not completed; fees have not yet been set.
In addition to the moorings, we have installed 50 swim buoys (300 feet from shore)
along a section of Pinney's Beach to designate a safe swim zone. Jet skis and other
watersports activities are prohibited in this area.
The sponsoring governmental agency, Nevis Air and Sea Port Authority, held an
informational meeting on September 26th, at which David Moore, the installer,
explained his MoorSeacure mooring system to the public and noted that local peo-
ple will be trained to do the required periodic maintenance.
In addition, Nevis-based cruiser Hudson Hoen tells Compass, "At the meeting, we
were told of a welcome change to current procedures which will allow yachts that
have cleared in at St. Kitts to simply call Nevis authorities on the VHF and be
assigned a mooring no more clearing out in St. Kitts and clearing in again in
Nevis as if they're two separate countries. That requirement has been viewed as an
extremely inconvenient and inexplicably unnecessary procedure by visiting
yachties, so this will be a welcome decision."
Puerto La Cruz News
Ellen Sanpere reports: Cayenne III is back in Puerto La Cruz, Venezuela. The fuel
dock near the Bahia Redonda marina has a new paint job, but the fuel pumps are
gone. Gasoline is available at the powerboat dock near Puerto del Este. When we
need fuel, we will go to Cumand.
Three "canal police" stopped us as we went from Plaza Mayor to Bahia Redonda in
the dinghy the other night. They said a curfew has been imposed on dinghy traffic
in the canals between 6:00PM and 8:00AM. Apparently, there was a serious accident
one night involving some locals and some cruisers and an unlighted speeding
dinghy. Vessels may enter the canal, but only to go home, and may not go outside.
This certainly crimps our fun no dinners at MareMares or the mall unless we take a
taxi, and the roads are mobbed all day/night long. Traffic around Plaza Mayor is
The marinas and boatyards here are full, but there aren't as many people hanging
around as in the past. The restaurant at Bahia Redonda was redecorated, and the
food has improved under new management. In addition to the Sunday dominoes
game, people are playing Texas Hold'em poker and Parcheesi on Saturdays.
The navigational light at the offshore island of Chimana Segunda was not lit when
we stopped there in mid-October, but people were in the national park station
there all night, presumably available in case of trouble.
Bolivares are now at Bs5,000/USD and fluctuating. Next January, there will be new
currency, BsFuerte, with the last three zeros dropped off. Prices are to be quoted
until then in both: i.e. Bs50,000/BsF50. Cruisers need to be careful to avoid mistakes
when paying for things.
Norman Faria reports: It came as a shock to family and friends, many in the Eastern
Caribbean boating community and marine businesses when Anthony Gunn died
last month at age 44. He had cancer.
From all accounts, the Vincentian-born "Zooms", to use his nickname, had a friendly
disposition, was well-liked and a fine example to others. His commitment to business
innovation led him to set up his own start-up telecom company, Cariaccess, head-
quartered in Barbados, to battle what he saw as a monopolistic existing firm. He
later established a financial management business.
Continued on next page
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Cover Photo: Chris Doyle
Salt Whistle Bay, Mayreau, Southern Grenadines
The Caribbean's Monthly Look at Sea & Shore
Law in Limbo? Yikes, Hikes!
API for yachts on hold.............6 To a Trinidad waterfall ..........31
Mega marina for Grenada...... 12
Tips and tales ........................18
Just Another Day... Fish Story
Cruising in Venezuela............26 From a fan of freshness.........44
Doyle's Deck View................19
Meridian Passage .................23
Sailors' Horoscope ...............36
Island Poets .........................36
Cruising Crossword ...............37
r ".-. .. .I. I . ., ,
Tel: (784) 457-3409, Fax: (784) 457-3410,
Editor........................................... Sally Erdle
Assistant Editor...................Elaine Ollivierre
Advertising & Distribution........Tom Hopman
Art, Design & Production......Wilfred Dederer
Accounting............................... Debra Davis
Compass Agents by Island:
... ... . ,
Cartoons .............................. 37
Cruising Kids' Corner............38
Dolly's Deep Secrets.............38
Book Reviews .....................43
Cooking with Cruisers...........46
Readers' Forum ..................48
Advertisers' Index ................52
What's On My Mind ..............53
i A i i II ,
.. .. ,,, .
T....... iT T i .ii Ti i ,
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a b Ii ii-at A 1 11 .. en i c
ISSN 1605 1998
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i...... i'. . age
'. I,- [l :l : :,',I -.: :,' was more than active. In his adopted homeland,
Barbados, he got involved in the Barbados Optimist Dinghy Association (BODA). He
ininai than tri nllinn Rnrhnbsn (Cr\ liin (CII Jh (Faa ralnta- nrtiCHo onn nnn- 17) \A/hara ha
Anthony Gunn, at center, with Dominica Yacht Club teammates and regatta
stalwarts during prizegiving at Bequia Easter Regatta 2007
was an officer on the Executive Committee. He participated in or otherwise supported
regional regattas, crewing on people's boats or racing his own Bacchanal Too. He
sailed with the Dominica Yacht Club team at this year's Bequia Easter Regatta.
In Dominica, Anthony Gunn was co-founder, along with Hubert Winston, of the
Dominica Yacht Club in 2006, and was instrumental in kick-starting the Optimist
dinghy sailing programme there with boats donated from BODA. Hubert told
Compass that those in Dominica who knew him found it difficult "to accept some-
one so gifted and so young with so much to live for wasn't with us anymore." The
DYC Commodore and President of the Dominica Marine Association thanked the
Gunn family for "rearing a perfect son and sharing him with the world".
Former Commodore of the Barbados Yacht Club, Charles Belle, noted that Gunn
was a "truly Caribbean man, a friendly person and one who brought some innova-
tive ideas to the Club".
The president of BODA, widely known as "Wipers" ("That name will do for now,
thank you"), said Anthony's help to the programme in its formative years was great-
ly appreciated. "Anthony was always looking ahead and was optimistic about the
continued success of sail training especially that it reached the underprivileged,
but he was concerned about the future of all children."
Continued on next page
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tions. Of his involvement and good intentions about boating, whether cruising and
racing, there can however be no doubt. Only weeks before his death, he kindly
sent me a tracking website for a hurricane approaching Barbados.
'Cruisers for a Cure' Cross the Line in Trinidad
Ann Vanderhoof reports: We were the "Cruisers for a Cure" nine women with
'Dey do run, run!' These visiting sailors joined the largest all female race in the
Caribbean to raise funds to fight cancer in Trinidad & Tobago
boats spending part or all of this year's hurricane season in Trinidad and on
September 8th, we joined some 4,400 Trinidadian women in the ninth annual
Scotiabank "Women Against Breast Cancer 5k Classic" in downtown Port of Spain.
The race route went around the Queen's Park Savannah, the vast expanse of park-
land in the middle of the city (and the heart of the country's Carnival celebrations).
Lush, green, and beautiful at any time of year, it was lump-in-the-throat lovely with
a river of women flowing around its perimeter, all of us running/jogging/walking to
raise money to provide free mammograms and breast ultrasounds for Trini women.
According to Reena Panchorie, assistant manager of Public & Corporate Affairs for
Scotiabank in Trinidad and Tobago, this is the largest all-female race in the
Caribbean, with an increase of 1,000 participants this year over last. There were
mother-and-daughter teams (180 of them), corporate and government groups,
social clubs (like the Canadian Women's Club, instantly recognizable by the red-
and-white Canadian flags stenciled on their faces), lone women wearing shirts with
slogans such as "I'm running for Terry," and our "Cruisers for a Cure," many of us
with better sea legs than land legs.
"There was no question that I would take part," said Heather Mackey of the sailboat
Asseance. "Harriet Gardner Eisen (on Perseverance, who organized the cruisers
group) was so passionate about the cause. And it was absolutely exhilarating to see
all those women and to be part of it."
The other boats represented were Alleluia, Arctic Tern, C'??- ?'
Wind, If Not Why Not, Receta, and Tranquility We had a :l.-,: :i:-, -1 i.-,
men on Grace, Asseance, and Arctic Tern who stationed themselves at the finish
line, and snapped photos of each of us (and our time on the digital clock) as we
crossed the line. None of us finished in the top 25 though we all finished, and all
went back to our boats with medals strung on pink ribbons and big smiles
on tired faces.
More than US$25,000 was raised for the cause that afternoon, and donations are still
welcome, Panchorie says. They can be made at any Scotiabank branch, to the
Women Against Breast Cancer account, #131247.
Don't Ditch the Dressings!
Friends of Bequia Hospital is appealing to all vessels planning visits to Bequia to
donate date-expired medical kit to the island's hospital.
Bequia has a facility of 12 beds close to the harbour at Port Elizabeth. This is the
island's primary first-aid and assessment point. From here patients can be released
after treatment, referred to facilities elsewhere or returned for further treatment to
the vessel which brought the patient to Bequia.
Difficulties with deliveries to Bequia result in there always being some basic items of
stock medical equipment needed urgently by the nursing staff. To ease the position,
hospital nursing staff are looking for equipment such as scissors, sutures, bandages,
dressings, complete medical kits or any other similar equipment which is close to or
past its use-by date. Such items can be recycled after sterilising and subsequently
used perfectly safely rather than simply thrown away.
Arrangements have been made for the landing and immediate Customs clearance
in Port Elizabeth of any donated equipment. Please note that currently no form of
pharmaceutical or medicinal drugs can be accepted.
For further information and delivery arrangements call David Webber (784) 495-
5607; Di Wheldon (784) 455-6529; or Mary or David Harvey (784) 458-3496.
In this issue of Compass we welcome new advertisers Club Nautico de San Juan,
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The Sword of Damocles:
Still Hanging Over Yachts
"It will put chartering and cruising in the Caribbean back 20 years," declared vet
eran yachtsman Don Street upon learning that ten Eastern Caribbean countries had
ii. .i .i i, i, I .... i...,i1 i with the Advance Passenger
I .. i -i ,, i i- 1 h ,I I I' .I ... .I i d states.
The system, in its strictest version, requires the masters of "ALL air and sea car
riers" to register on a website, fill out a detailed form (which asks for information
such as passengers' names, nationalities and passport numbers, and the vessel or
aircraft's dates and times -in hours and minutes -of departure and arrival), then
submit the form on-line, as an e-mail attachment or by fax several hours before
arrival in a port of entry. It is currently used in many parts of the world by com-
mercial and private aircraft and large ships when crossing national borders.
Single domestic space
Countries that have passed legislation requiring compliance with APIS are circled.
Will this redefine the popular cruising areas?
The Caribbean Economic Community, CARICOM, began officially requiring com-
pliance with APIS in February of this year. Submissions are to be made 1,,..
to a strict timetable related to times of departure and/or arrival, with "1.1 .
advance times depending on whether you are arriving in, departing from, or travel
ing within CARICOM space. CARICOM member states that have passed legislation
requiring APIS compliance are Jamaica, Antigua & Barbuda, St. Kitts & Nevis,
Dominica, Barbados, St. Lucia, St. Vincent & the Grenadines, Grenada, Trinidad &
Tobago and Guyana.
Street's dire warning came during the same late-October week in which Chairman
of the Caribbean Tourism Organization, Allen Chastanet, said that he wants region
al tourism ministers and marketers to aim to make the Caribbean "the premier
tourist destination in the world." Yacht tourism is recognized as being the second
most economically important form of tourism in the Eastern Caribbean, behind
hotels but ahead of cruise ships.
According to an informational publication titled One Team, One Space, One
Caribbean published by CARIC(* i,,,. .... ..' .. r for Crime and Security
(IMPACS), IMPACS was made : -I ..-.i I I i...I nationin of APIS in this
area. In this respect, IMPACS pursued the offer of technical assistance from the
Government of the United -, .i ... .. . i .... the establishment and oper
action of the APIS by enga..,, ... .. i.1. .. I II Operational Protocol to the
Memorandum of Intent between I 1. i ... ;mber states and the Government of
the United States. The MOI was concluded in October 2006 at the Third Meeting of
the CARICOM Council of Ministers responsible for National Security and Law
Enforcement. Details of the type and level of cooperation were to be articulated in
the Operational Protocol.
IMPACS wrote: "During the planning stage and in the course of negotiating the
Protocol, it became evident that implementation of the APIS would not be as
straightforward as it appeared on the surface... Airlines operating out of Canada, the
United Kingdom and Europe were particularly concerned over compliance with their
national legislation and the effect the APIS, configured as proposed by the United
States, might have on their operations."
At that time the US and the European Union were engaged in discussions for a
newAPI -.r---n;t To CARICOr I .. i. ..- ith the US were put on hold so as
to ensur .....i ..... with the .-" ..- I US/EU .r---nt The IMPACS
brochure says that due to time constraints related to the .. I .11 Cup 2007
matches that were held in various Caribbean islands earlier this year, "...a parallel
system owned, operated and controlled by CARICOM was established, pending the
conclusic.. I .. i .. ..- Or the Operational Protocol."
At the .-......" I _****-, the ten CARICOM countries concerned each passed
its own national legislation requiring APIS compliance. Although the Joint
Regional Communications Centre (JRCC), which is the implementing arm of APIS
for IMPACS, and its main point of contact, has always insisted that all ten coun
tries should have been applying this legislation to yachts since February 2007,
only two -- ,,,.,, & Barbuda and St. Vincent & the Grenadines -have ever
done so, ano I .. i at that.
But a law "sleeping" on the books can be enforced at any time. As the high sea
son nears, alarm over the damage that active enforcement by any or all ten
countries would cause to regional yacht tourism recently launched stakeholders
CMA Meets with JRCC
A meeting was held on October 8th in the conference room of Power Boats marina
in Trinidad, organized by the Caribbean Marine Association (CMA) in response to
discussions held between the CMA and the JRCC. The CMA is an umbrella body
bringing together representatives of national recreational marine trades associations
throughout the Caribbean. In attendance were a top-level three-person i .
from the JRCC, representatives of marine trades associations from a : .....i
Caribbean nations, other CMA members, personnel from Immigration in Trinidad &
Tobago, and other stakeholders.
In his welcoming address, CMA President Keats Compton possibly understated the
case when he noted that "the peculiarities of our industry may not [be] fully consid
ered" when measures such as APIS are conceptualized. This was underscored by
John Duffy, President of the Antigua & Barbuda Marine Association, who asserted
that there had been no prior consultation or introductory process involving APIS in
-1.; t -. lt..: "The first I heard about it was when I started getting complaints
:. ... .-..... and marinas." Commander Louis Baptiste, Director of the JRCC,
responded that the JRCC had attempted to inform the yachting community about
APIS, but apologized for obviously not having done enough.
Commander Baptiste told the yachting stakeholders that JRCC's mission is "to
provide effective functional support to regional border security systems and law
enforcement operations thereby enhancing the strength and security of our bor
ders." He noted "some of the misconceptions surrounding APIS", emphasizing that
its purpose was anti-crime in general, not just anti-terrorism. "This is not just
another cog in the wheel of bureaucracy," he said. "APIS is:. I .. I
work imposed on tourism; it must be viewe 1 .. ... ;.1 ; .1 I I .I . i
The Caribbean's maritime borders are our I II. I i.
Commander Baptiste said that the JRCC has asked all CARICOM member states
to provide lists of "individuals of concern", and that the JRCC has access to
Interpol's database on terrorists, criminals, -ii i.7--1 -hildren, human smugglers,
lists of lost and stolen travel documents, etcet I I -. must not be viewed in iso
lation," he said. "Please view this in a wider context: it is i i i .
Its intent is to find any 'individuals of concern', not just '' -
John Duffy then outlined some of the real-life challenges that yachtsmen and
Immigration officials had been faced with while attempting to comply with APIS. He
compared the difficulty for ya-ht7 -i1-;ri; i1-t- a country requiring APIS as com-
pared with one that doesn't: "I .. .. ... .. '.. I of mine decided to sail to St. Barts
for the weekend. It took him two and a quarter hours to check out of Antigua and
an hour and three quarters to check back in. By contrast, he checked into St. Barts
in ten minutes; he was given a three-day visa and checked out at the same time."
As noted by stakeholder Jane Peake, under the regulations as currently writ
ten, visiting yachtspeople are the only type of tourists in the Caribbean singled
out as having to submit their own Advance Passenger Information; the airlines
do it for those arriving by air, and the cruise ship companies take care of it for
I ,.11 .. i,. I I "Our wealthiest tourists tend to be those who come on yachts yet
we put as many obstacles in their way as possible... APIS cannot, and I must
emphasize this, cannot be allowed to continue in its present form. APIS must be
changed before the season starts in November or, at the very least, Immigration offi
cers must be instructed to apply the 100-ton limit [as specified in Antigua &
Barbuda's relevant Act]. If nothing is done it won't be the 2007/2008 season which
will suffer, it will be the subsequent seasons when yachts stop coming to the
Caribbean, fed up with the over-riding and massive bureaucracy."
CMA Director Donald Stollmeyer i I 11 ... l.... 11 the CMA recommends that
APIS in its present form should be -..-i .. i 1 11- pending a properly organ
ized, in-depth analysis of the manner in which the yachting industry operates.
Based on the information gathered, informed choices can then be made to address
the needs of the yachting community/industry and, at the same time, satisfy the
reasonable anti-crime/terrorism requirements of the JRCC.
Would Easier be Better?
It is our understanding that the API data currently asked for were culled from the
"WCO/ICAO/IATA Guidelines on Advance Passenger Information", and this is the
maximum set of API data that could be required by border control authorities.
A cruiser writes: "After --1- 1;; the Compass article about APIS in the October
issue, I went on line to see I1 1 ... figure out how to submit the required informa
tion. After nearly four hours I managed to build and save one record as a test. It says
I left the USA from NPT in 2002 en-route to New Zealand AKL arriving in 2009."
One of the JRCC's stated goals is "to implement scalable technical solutions." In
response to complaints raised at the C i ... i.... .1 ut difficulties encountered with
the website and form, JRCC Complian 'Ii ... Beckles said that JRCC is will
ing to make changes to make the form more user-friendly and to improve the website.
But even if the form and website are made more user-friendly, can this sub
region's yacht tourism survive another round of form-filling every time a border is
crossed? The Eastern Caribbean is a unique cruising destination in that the major
ity of islands of any size, and often just a few miles apart, are independent nations.
Some other sailing destinations have recently begun to require Advance Passenger
Information, notably Australia and Fiji, but once a yacht enters Australian or Fijian
waters it is likely to remain cruising in those large geographical areas for periods of
weeks or months, not days.
As CARICOM is working toward a Single Market and Economy, could yachting
tourists not comply with APIS only when -it-rin;. n-1 1-aving CARICOM as a single
space? Moreover, could we work towards e ., I i, I country acknowledging the
entry procedures accepted by the first CARICOM country into which a yacht enters?
In addition to the necessity of the form being streamlined, if it is ever to be used
by yachts, the process as currently required must also be changed radically. It is
simply unworl, 1 I 11. I. 1. ...... ... i ty of yacht skippers to submit infor
nation in the -1... I I.. I .... .1 .I. I .,, the time parameters given.
How did this situation come about? Were the CARICOM Ministers of National
Security who signed last year's Memorandum of Intent briefed about the potential
impact of APIS on the regional yacht tourism industry? When the relevant national
legislation was debated in Parliament or discussed at Cabinet level in the individual
countries, were the implications for their yacht tourism sectors fully considered?
Continued on next page
Continued from previous page
Although many key officials are aware of APIS and concerned about its potential
impact on yachting tourism, one CMA member said, "It is amazing how many peo
pie in government were unaware of it until this last couple of weeks."
A cruiser who wanted to know if he needed to file API for a certain CARICOM state
said, "I phoned the administration to find out and was transferred six times, as people
tried to figure out with whom I should be speaking. The last fellow said that 'they' (he
wouldn't, or couldn't, tell me who 'they' were) had not decided to begin enforcing it yet."
It's a good thing enforcement has not been strict -the relevant laws provide sub
sections s,....... I ..I... .. .. "Subsection (2a): A person, being the mas
ter of ave I I i ,' ..... ,.,, & Barbuda, who intentionally or recklessly
(a) fails to transmit the data in accordance with subsection (1); or (b) transmits
incomplete or false data, commits an offence and is liable on summary conviction to
a fine not exceeding EC$300,000" -more than US$100,000.
find this APIS
form a major
A simpler version
could be in
Island by Island
As this issue of Compass goes to press, the current situation to the best of our
knowledge is as follows.
,,i., i arbuda, which had been asking yacht skippers to go to an internet cafe
1 1 1 I I form s th is su m i.. .... .- I ...... .i .. .. i .- .1 .. . i... i
Act, 2007, has now suspended e.. ..... I I 1 .... ... .. I I .11 i.i -
St Kitts and Nevis are not applying an APIS requirement at the moment and accord
ing to a correspondent have no plans to do so in the immediate future: "They think it
would cause confusion among the yachts. They particularly appreciate that the 24-hour
rule cannot work for them -,, 1. ...... ....... I I .. ... I like St. Barts."
In Dominica, "this wo.l I i .... i ... .. i .. ..... .. according to one
official. Dominica, being located between the non-API islands of Guadeloupe and
Martinique, would be especially vulnerable to the 24-hour rule.
St. Lucia has not yet enforced its APIS legislation either, and Keats Compton, as
President of the Marine Industry Association of St. Lucia, is writing to the Prime
Minister and the Minister of Tourism formally requesting the suspension of St.
Lucia's Immigration Act of 2007 as it applies to yachts.
St. Vincent & the Grenadines Immigration officers asked yachts to fill out APIS
forms online for a brief period in October, and one or more boats arriving from
Grenada waters were reportedly turned away at Union Island because they hadn't
filed API forms before leaving Grenada. However, Melodye Pompa of the Caribbean
Safety & Security Net says 1, .i 1.- i ...... of Union Island have not report
ed any mention of APIS. Th .- -.. I I i, is set to be the top agenda item
for ... .I I ... ... I- .. . i I I
S, , . ,, , ......... ., .. I ... ...I I~ gard to yachts.
SI ..... I I i . i . i ....... i . i onJune30th
and has not been renewed.
With relatively little visiting yacht traffic, especially at this time of year, we've had
no feedback from Guyana, Barbados or Jamaica.
i .. -' 1 i, 1 .i. .. of the APIS form isn't the complete solution, and an over
ha .. I I'. i,,. I ,. - I ir yachts is required, so too suspension of enforcement of
the laws on the books isn't the end of the story. The laws must be amended if yacht
ing tourism is to be protected.
A Charter Company Director Says...
"The yacht charter industry is base ... ... ailing vessels to competent indi
viduals who share them with family ... I.. .. i- The reason people do this is to
enjoy freedom of movement. If this freedom is taken away from our clientele we will
have no more business in the future, since our clients can enjoy this freedom in
almost all other sailing areas of the world. Our industry is .1. I. ..,. [ue
to weather impacts such as hurricanes, increasing crime ral ... 11,. i. to
small destinations and, last but not least, bureaucracy. I hope that whoever is in
charge of these new requirements is working on a suitable solution for small craft."
A Boater Says...
A visiting yacht owner recently wrote to the JRCC: "The consensus of many cruis
ers like myself is to avoid the island states that are participating in this action. It is
just another straw that is tr-.1-i;; the back of cruisers along with the dramatic
increases in clearance and .. The economic impact on your community of
my deciding not to cruise in your islands will be the loss of US$17,386; that is the
amount I have spent in the Caribbean islands thus far this year.
"You see," he went on, "I have a choice: I can submit to your rules or I can take
my yacht elsewhere 1T t -- nin- my sailing partner and I sat down and started
changing our plans ..I -1 I. ... Trinidad rather than once again cruising in the
Eastern Caribbean. It looks like we will spend 2008 in the offshore islands of
Venezuela, the Dutch ABC islands, and next hurricane season in Cartagena,
"But perhaps this is all much to do about nothing," he added hopefully. "Reading
in the newspaper, it seems that not all islands have agreed to enforce this require
ment. Perhaps there are sane heads in some governments after all."
The Way Out?
The four examples of the .' ....... . ,, -, of 2007 that we have seen are all very
similar, being basically (in I. I- I -I Vincent & the Grenadines') "An Act to
amend the Immigration Act to impose an obligation on the master of a vessel to trans
it i : r data to the competent authority in advance of the arrival of the vessel..."
i ..i11 the four Acts we've seen also contain an escape clause, saying that
some authority such as the Cabinet, the appropriate Minister, or the Governor
General may waive the requirements of the key subsections of the Act.
Antigua & Barbuda's Immigration and Passport (Amendment) Act, 2007 also spec
t ~ 4
ifies that it does not apply to vessels under 100 net tons, leaving out most cruising
yachts and bareboats. But John Duffy points out that a 100-net-ton cut-off point is
still too low. "That would apply to sailing yachts of: ,..1.1 125 foot in length and
motor yachts of about 100 foot in length," he says. ,11, ,early 800 super-yachts
currently under construction, and a super-yacht starts at 120 foot, a large percent
age of the yachts visiting the Caribbean would be subject to APIS. It would be much
more appropriate to consider yachts by length rather than weight: tonnage applies
to commercial vessels, feet applies to luxury yachts." Length is also much more eas
ily measured for verification than is tonnage.
As this issue of Compass goes to press, many Caribbean yachting stakeholders
have been away at the Fort Lauderdale Boat Show, and government Ministers have
been off island at the Annual Caribbean Tourism Organisation Conference in Puerto
Rico or at a UNESCO meeting in Paris. We are cautiously optimistic that once every
one is back at their desks, there will be positive developments, even if the wheels of
S. ., .,. ., ind slowly.
The %ay F~Frnard
Caribbean cruising guide author Chris Doyle writes: "I fear the threat of this ,i....
will still be around for a while. I wonder whether it would be helpful if one of the i
COM member states' governments hosted a meeting for all the islands' relevant
authorities and the yachting sector representatives, to see if there is a way we might
move forward. At least, all i ..... ..I- ... .... I 1 i de yachts below a certain
length would certainly help .. i i I ... . .. the last thing we need."
Many Islands, One Sea
The IMPACS literature distributed at the Trinidad meeting tells us, "The host
venue agreements for Cricket World Cup 2007 required the region to be treated as
.l .1 .-ilit.tit.-: unprecedented freedom of movement across bor
' i I . i- i ... ... .... the challenge, therefore, was to facilitate such
movement, so important to our many tourism-based economies, while at the same
'im F pyr -'in- the security of our region. To achieve this objective, a Common
' i i* i Policy was developed and a decision taken to introduce Advance
Passenger and Cargo Information Systems.... Nationals and other persons already
enjoying legal status would benefit from free movement within the Space. Visitors
would also be able to move freely aft-r -nt-ri;; thi first port."
This free movement within the i ... I -i during CWC 2007 included no
inspection or stamping of passports (unless considered necessary for identification
as a result of an alert or any other reason as determined by 11. i 'I i ....... .i,
authority), and the use of a common entry/departure and ( ,, - I .. 1. I
all people rn"--lin' within the space were required to provide.
The Cha.. I I Ad Hoc Sub-Committee for CWC 2007 visited all Immigration
departments within the region prior to the commencement of the Single Domestic
Space, provide;. r-fin-.:; and advice to officials at all levels. According to IMPACS,
this served to: ,,, 'l, level of commitment to the process and was well received.
If this all was done for a one-time series of sporting events, which entailed con
siderable public expense to bring venues up to standard and brought less revenue
to many host countries than expected, why can't CARICOM be made a permanent
.... .1 F 1 ting tourism, a sustainable activity which brings the area sig
... ... ... ... year, with virtually all expenses being borne by the private sec
tor, and which, if encouraged, has growth potential?
Under the motto "Many Islands, One Sea", the CMA not only unites national
organizations, but also works with other regional bodies. The CMA is a member of
the Caribbean Tourism Association, and it is to be hoped that the CTO can play a
part in ---rl-i: --ith the CMA and the JRCC to decrease the threat that APIS, as cur
rently ..I..... I presents to the yachting industry, and perhaps eventually make
CARICOM a single space for yacht tourism.
At the October 8th meeting, the following statements were made:
JRCC Director, Commander Baptiste said, "We must have a balance between
tourism and security."
Stakeholder Kevin Kenny said, "We have to find a way that the JRCC can get what
it wants without bureaucracy damaging our yachting industry."
CMA President Keats Compton asked, "How can we work together?"
It has been suggested that the CMA prepare a proposal to be discussed at the next
CARICOM heads meeting in early 2008; any information that can be provided by
CMA members, other marine colleagues, CTO officials, the JRCC and other key
stakeholders is most welcome at email@example.com.
John Duffy says, "Hopefully, we can move forward and try to make bureaucrats
understand exactly how important the yachting industry is to the Caribbean and
how much it could grow if only they would allow it to do so. The best thing about
APIS is that it has succeeded in getting much of the Caribbean to work together in
the greater interest of the yachting industry. It has managed to get the Caribbean
talking -and talking, in particular, about the free movement of yachts."
For updates on the APIS situation visit http://safetyandsecuritynet.com/NEWS.html
When it comes to 1. i,,,,. the Eastern Caribbean, we're all in the same boat.
CARICOM and non-- ... I countries, government officials and private-sector
stakeholders, cruisers and charterers -the laws requiring yachts to submit APIS
forms, as currently enacted, can affect us all.
Feedback can be sent to the following.
General comments and suggestions: CMA, info@caribbeanmarineassocia
Suggestions on improving the website (www.caricomeapis.org) and APIS form:
JRCC, 1 .... -..... -, I nise Myers, Compliance Manager) or w.beck
les@iml -j. I I Compliance Officer)
Comments on how your experience of that country would be affected by APIS:
MINISTRIES OF TOURISM
Antigua & Barbuda -firstname.lastname@example.org
St. Kitts & Nevis -email@example.com
St. Lucia -firstname.lastname@example.org
St. Vincent & the Grenadines -email@example.com
Trinidad & Tobago -firstname.lastname@example.org
NATIONAL MARINE TRADES ASSOCIATIONS
Antigua & Barbuda -email@example.com
St. Lucia -firstname.lastname@example.org
St. Vincent & the Grenadines -email@example.com
Trinidad & Tobago firstname.lastname@example.org
Protecting Sea Turtles in Venezuela
Venezuela's Fundacion La Tortuga reports: Sea tur
tles, their hatchlings and eggs have many natural
predators within the marine environment.
Nevertheless, it is human action that has principally
placed this species in danger of extinction. Man has
captured and exploited sea turtles for thousands of
years with the purpose of consuming and selling their
meat, eggs, oil, and shells, dramatically diminishing
their populations during the last 300 years.
To this dramatic situation we may add the invasion
and degradation carried out by men in many of the
natural habitats of these species, for tourism, urban
or industrial i,,, - ....... ...,. ... i obstructing
the nesting --1 .1.1 .- .1... This situa
tion has devastated sea turtle populations all over the
world, placing them on the edge of extinction.
In the face of this discouraging scene, different
i . i world level are working very hard in
1I. .. these species, attaining national and
international agreements with governments, and
thanks to this task, sea turtles are now considered
I.. i I ... ,, .tela's coasts and isles, sea
11 ...II ~ I . I ,, I .h 1.I h h i~ om ot-
ed, in many cases, by the false I i. I . I' them
are aphrodisiac, medicinal or especially nourishing.
This, i. ith the manufacture of jewelry and
spurs I ,. i,,,,. cocks produced from the shell of the
hawksbill turtle, and incidental captures carried out by
fishing vessels with t -i- .. t- i lace these species in
the critical situation I I ....., re-population.
Fundacion La Tortuga has been assuming, over the
past several years, a task that includes, among other
activities, a survey on scientific and conservation
information with the purpose of evaluating the present
situation of sea turtle populations, species amply pro
tected by the laws of our country.
From the information collected by the team of spe
cialists and scientists of the Fundacion L. I, .
(FLT) and the Working Group in Marine I
the State of Nueva Esparta (GTTM-NE), evidence of
illegal capture activities has been found of at least
two marine turtle species, the green and the hawks
bill turtles, both classified in danger of extinction in
our country and in critical danger of extinction at a
In the last two expeditions, which took place during
the months of May and July of this year, the remains
of 18 turtles sacrificed at less than one year old were
observed. It is estimated that this represents between
one and ten percent of the total actual capture,
because the fishermen are acquainted with the laws
and try to hide all evidence. As a matter of fact, 88.9
percent of these remains were found hidden in the
vegetation close to the beach. The most affected
species is the green turtle with 77.78 percent of the
total of the remains observed, all juvenile and sub
adults, which indicates that these have been captured
in their feeding areas. In contrast, 75 percent of the
hawksbills were animals in reproductive sizes (adults)
that may have been captured in the sea as well as on
the beaches during the nesting process.
Up to this moment the team oi .. i ,,,. ,
the project has confirmed the p: -. 11 11.
four species reported for the Isle of La Tortuga by the
investigators Flores and Pritchard, during 1984.
Likewise, a new registry on the Dermochelys coriacea
species (leatherback turtle), has been made for the
isle, documented by the scientist Pedro Vernet (scien
tific counselor of FTL).
It should be emphasized that only seven species of
sea turtles exist in the world, of which five may be
observed on the Venezuelan coasts and have been
reported for the Isle of La Tortuga: Chelonia mydas
(green turtle), Eretmochelys imbricata (hawksbill), the
S. .. .. .. II .. i the Lepidochelys olivacea
(**. .. II I ... I I,. Dermochelys coriacea
(leatherback), and four of these species nest in the
beaches of the island.
The above evidences the need for initiating urgent
: ...... ... ..I i .... I .. -.... amd feeding areas, with
S,. ,,,i I I i ,. -1.. I control of the fishing
systems utilized in the zone, as well as vigilance and
control for due respect of prohibition and protection of
the species whose capture is forbidden.
Taking into consideration the delicate situation pre
sented by the ecosystems of the Isle of La Tortuga and
the danger that this implies for innumerable species
that make their habitat in them, the Fundacion La
Tortuga has proposed the construction of a Marine,
Oceanographic and Meteorolog. .1i i ..
Station on the Isle of La Tortuga. .. -I .....
necessary for the proper development of scientific
investigation and educational projects.
This station would allow the application in situ, of
appropriate -In .-;n-t ;-1 control plans, educating
and -..-. .. -. i .... .. sidents and visitors with
the ." i mitigating environmental impacts and
contributing to a better understanding of the benefits
of sustainable development. It could also assist in the
identification of sustainable alternatives for fisherfolk
and tourists in the area.
Fundacion La Tortuga has raised the need for build
ing, as promptly as possible, the "Isle of La Tortuga
Marine, Oceanographic .. .- ., ..
the highest levels .......
Fundacion La i ,.. , i i i 11,
conservation ci l. and other threatened species.
Do not purchase or consume products from sea tur
ties and other protected species.
For more information e-mail info@fundacionlatortu
ga.org or visit www.fundacionlatortuga.org.
Air Pollution from Large Ships
The issue of air pollution from large ships was high
lighted when the environmental group Friends of the
Earth filed a suit on September 5th in US federal dis
trict court, suing the Environmental Protection
Agency for failing to meet a deadline to regulate this
source of pollution.
o--; .-i;; vessels are among the largest mobile
so... i ., pollution in the world, according to
Friends of the Earth. A press release from the group
notes that ships bum asphalt-like bunker fuel that is
thousands of times dirtier than the diesel used by
trucks or trains, and most operate with engines that
pre-date even weak international standards. Just one
cargo or cruise ship in port can pollute as much as
350,000 cars, and major ports receive hundreds of
ship calls a month, yet the air pollution from large
ships is one of the least addressed environmental jus
tice issues facing port communities.
Bequia Environmental Movement Launched
Alexandra Paolino reports: The Bequia
Environmental Movement has officially begun, as
many different independent and collaborating groups
of all ages and from all over the island are looking into
different key areas to start the clean-up process.
On Saturday September 8, 2007, a small group of
friends from within the Bequia community joined
forces to start cleaning up the numerous beaches and
rocky bays where litter had accumulated.
The group filled over 30 large garbage bags with
plastic bottles, plastic bags, plastic wrappers, alu
minum packets, cans, rubber, etcetera from Hope
Beach. The clean-up was very successful, as the bags
were carried to the top of the hill and Karib Cable
sponsored a truck to remove the garbage and take it to
the disposal ground in Spring.
On Saturday October 13, 2007 the group filled 15
large and five extr. 1 .;- garbage bags on Princess
Margaret Beach the most beautiful and fre
quently visited beaches of the island.
Continued on next page
swer in the
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rM85a M 'n 3 E i I
Continued from previous page
Most of the garbage collected included plastic bot
ties, cups, plates, straws and forks; cans; Styrofoam
plates, cups and take-away boxes; food wrappers; alu
minum foil; glass bottles; diapers and plastic bags.
Many thanks to the Bequia Tourism Association for
donating i . I I ... i i ll -;ofwater,andto
Karib Cat i -, ..... 11. i.,, i which is essen
tial for the garbage removal.
Let's continue to work together to keep Bequia, St
Vincent and the Grenadines clean, green and serene!
The Grenadines Shine in Coastal Clean-Ups
This year, as part of International Coastal Clean-Up
Day, September 15th, the islands of the Grenadines,
from Bequia to Carriacou, under the Sustainable
Grenadines Project, joined forces with St. Vincent and
Grenada in a concerted effort to clean up the coastal
environment. Each island undertook activities to this
U -a l |
te^M^. ~~~ XirJflI
Carriacou got even sweeter thanks to this year's
international Coastal Clean Up volunteers
end and provided preliminary reports on their effort.
"Garbage at the Coast Chokes" was the theme for St.
Vincent & the Grenadines in the annual International
Coastal Clean-Up. There were two main sponsors of the
activity: Karib Cable provided water, 70 garbage bags,
100 pairs of gloves and 24 T-shirts for Union Island
while the Sustainable Grenadines Project donated over
300 T-shirts, hundreds of garbage bags and 400 pairs
of gloves to participants across the Grenadines.
In Union Island there were approximately 83 volun
teers, most of whom were students of the Mary
Hutchinson and Stephanie Browne Primary Schools
and members of the Union Island 4-H Club. A total
estimated weight of 710 pounds of garbage was col
elected over a distance of approximately two miles. The
Union Island event was documented on video.
In Bequia, the effort was supported by over 60 vol
unteers and was concentrated in three main areas;
Port Elizabeth, Spring .. I .. I I'arm. Over 165 bags
of litter were collected ,, 11i I I Gregg area of Paget
Farm. Larger items like parts from machines and
building materials were lifted directly onto a truck. At
Spring and Port Elizabeth approximately 32 and 12
bags of trash were collected respectively. Most of the
garbage retrieved was related to shoreline or recre
national activities, and included 943 food wrappers and
containers and 805 plastic bottles. Also of concern
were the 534 outboard lube-oil bottles collected.
In Mustique, activities began on September 21st
with brief remarks to volunteers highlighting the need
for and importance of such an activity, and describing
the effects of coastal pollution and ways to prevent it.
An appreciation of this, it is believed, will encourage
people to be better stewards of their environment. The
activity was led by the Principal of the Mustique
Primary School and Ty Kovach and Simon Humphrey
of the Mustique Company with over 50 volunteers
including students and teachers of the primary
school, parents and villagers. Three beaches were
cleaned producing in total 23 bags of rubbish with an
estimated weight of 69 pounds. The garbage collected
on the three areas were mostly related to recreational
activities with some dumping from the construction
industry being evident.
Canouan undertook to clean up the entire village
on Saturday September 22nd. Given the nr. it;;-l-
of that task, no records were kept of 1
The activity on Mayreau was a great success. It
revealed that much of the garbage -in the form of
plastics and mainly plastic bottles -had washed
ashore from the sea. The volunteers there collected
53 bags of .- -.1 i thingg approximately 318
pounds from 1. 1.11 .. beaches. The effort was
supported by approximately 50 volunteers and was
spearheaded by the Mayreau Regatta and Sporting
Committee. The .11 also used the opportunity
to clean the village .1
On Saturday September 22nd, 55 volunteers from
Petite Martinique, clad in their SusGren cleanup T
shirts, cleaned the main beach of Sanchez and the
community. The team, as part of a greater environ
mental drive, planted over 30 trees. These included
coconut, almond, seagrape, neem and seaside mahoe
trees. The volunteers were mainly from the local non
governmental organization called the Petite
Martinique Catholic Youth Movement, community
members and volunteers from Carriacou. Forty-five
bags of garbage were collected in this effort which was
coordinated by the Carriacou Environmental
Carriacou was a hive of activity when 160 volunteers
descended on seven coastal communities across the
island on September 15th. The cleanup effort was con
centrated in Harvey Vale Beach, Bogles, Belvedere,
Dover, Limlair, Bayaleau and Windward Beach.
Villagers used the opportunity to also clean their sur
roundings, roadsides and to .; 1 r stockpiled
garbage. The boatbuilders of .. I ., I the main
boat-building community in Carriacou, got a much
needed face-lift for their dockyard by burning the
remains of old boats and rotting wood.
The dive shops of Carriacou and the PADI Aware
Project were also engaged in similar activities. For
these dive shops this has become an annual activity.
Over 240 garbage bags and 30 large feed bags of
debris were collected. This was by no means the extent
of garbage collected, as stoves, batteries and building
materials from hurricane-damaged homes were piled
Alexcia Cooke of the Sustainable Grenadines Project
says, "The results from the data cards are yet to reach
me but already we have seen an amazing and disturb
ing amount of plastic bottles and food containers
(mostly styrofoam boxes)."
Venezuela Cleans Up, Too
In Venezuela, Fundacion La Tortuga took +r-linti.-
of International Coastal Clean-Up Day I ....
some environmental recovery activities in two very
important coastal areas in Venezuela including
Mochima National Park and Morrocoy National Park.
Over a hundred volunteers collected more than 30
tons of pollutants. Volunteers took the opportunity to
distribute brochures with information regarding the
reason for this event and different ways to collaborate
in the conservation of our natural environment, seek
ing to promote and elevate citizens' participation in
clean-up activities throughout the year.
Grenada Doves to Inhabit Four Seasons Resort?
Word has reached Compass that work is going ahead
to develop land within Grenada's National Park at
Mount Hartman for a Four Seasons Resort. This is
despite ongoing international protests against devel
opment in the last remaining protected habitat of the
Grenada Dove (Leptotila welsi), Grenada's national
bird and one of the most critically endangered doves in
the world. The 155-acre national park was created in
1996 to protect the species. In April 2007, the govern
ment of Grenada passed an amendment to the
National Parks and Protected Areas Act allowing the
Governor General to sell any national park to develop
ers or other private interests.
On September 17, 2007, the American Bird
Conservancy submitted a detailed critique of the proj
ect to the Government of Grenada, Four Seasons,
Cinnamon 88 (resort builders) and its parent corpora
tion in the UK, Capital 88. Some supporters of the
: .1 i 1 1 i. .1 i i. ... .... Grenada doves,
I I. .. ...... I I II ... _. .... I i haps few er than
100, will be able to co-exist with the hotel. Opponents
believe that destruction of dry forest habitat to create a
resort and .- if 1 -- ill pell their doom.
For more .... ... . 1. Grenada Dove and the
development issue visit
Reef Check in St. Vincent & the Grenadines
Kim Baldwin reports: "Reef Check" is the world's
largest coral reef conservation and monitoring organi
station which was developed in 1997 as a voluntary,
relatively simple method of measuring the health of
coral reef- .1 1 11 Reef Check surveys monitor the
health of .i I- fish and invertebrates (i.e. conch,
lobster, sea eggs) as well as examine the effects of
human activities such as pollution, fishing and
coastal development. Reef Check is a community
based programme which relies on thousands of volun
teer divers from more than 89 countries around the
world to assist ... .. I. i.... marine surveys and
monitoring the .111. I .i reefs annually. The
information collected is used locally by the Fisheries
Division as well as sent to Reef Check headquarters in
California where it is compared with data collected
from hundreds of reefs around the world.
Currently there are a total of ten Reef Check sites
that have been set up and surveyed by five teams in
the country of St. Vincent & the Grenadines. These
sites are located in St. Vincent at The Gardens
Lowmans Bay and Sunset Point -Young Island (by
Indigo Dive Centre and the Fisheries Division); in
Bequia at Moonhole (by Bequia Dive Adventures and
Sandwatch); in Mustique at Plantain (by Mustique
Watersports); in Canouan at Bachelors Hall Reef and
The Steps (by Canouan Dive Centre); and in the
Tobago Cays Marine Park at Horseshoe Reef, Petit
Tabac, Baradal and Petit Bateau (by the Tobago Cays
Marine Park Rangers).
During the month of October, all of the St. Vincent
& the Grenadines Reef Check teams participated by
. .., .. .'.. I.. . 11. .. .. ..rveys. W ith
. .. i. i i i .. i i Check and
i *i i i .. I- I i . i assistance
: .. . I i .. i .. i .... ,,1 I university of
I I. I I i .i i .. II .. ., that these
reefs have been monitored by these voluntary teams in
St. Vincent & the Grenadines.
Special thanks mui t >- ni--n t- those volunteers
who have given their .... ... I II for such a worth
while cause both locally and globally!
If you are interested in learning more about how you
can help with future Reef Check surveys, please contact
country coordinator Sophie Punnett of the SVG
Fisheries Division at (784) 456 2738.
The US Congress is poised to give c i I ,,,.
in the Caribbean and elsewhere a I .' i
some of their debt to the United States by preserving
forests and coral reefs. Every dollar that qualified
nations spend to preserve these fragile ecosystems
would reduce their debt by a dollar under a bill passed
by the House on October 9th and cleared for passage
in the Senate.
"By providing incentives for developing nations to
conserve their coral resources, we are in effect pro
testing coastal landscapes and maintaining coastal
quality of water of some of the most important coral
reef ecosystems in the world," said Representative
The bill passed by voice vote, a procedure often used
when legislation has little opposition. It extends the
Tropical Forest Conservation Act, which provides "debt
for-nature swaps" with 12 nations. Over seven years,
these swaps generated $135 million of debt relief while
conserving about 50 million acres of tropical forests.
The new bill expands the number of eligible nations and
adds preservation of coral reefs and marine ecosystems
as well as all forests to the program.
"Deforestation and nutrient runoff .--. _-i-;;lt;;-
are killing coral reefs in much of the ( '' I I '
Jan Petri, director of government affairs at Harbor
Branch Oceanographic Institution of Fort Pierce,
Florida. "A lot of the fertilizer used to grow crops gets
washed into the ocean. Seaweeds and sea grasses then
grow on reefs, suffocating the corals. It could have an
impact if there is an economic incentive for nations to
preserve the reefs. It helps maintain and encourage
tourism, which is the mainstay of their economies."
Fellowships for Marine Resource Governance
The University of the West Indies (UWI) Centre for
Resource Management and Environmental Studies
(CERMES) at the Cave Hill Campus in Barbados is
offering two MPhil degree fellowships for full-time
interdisciplinary research on marine resci-
nance in the Eastern Caribbean available : _...
and 2008/09 academic years. Each fellowship pro
vides US$17,500 per year for two years.
The fellowships are associated with the CERMES
research project on "Marine Resource Governance in the
Eastern Caribbean" (MarGov project). Before contacting
CERMES, persons interested in this opportunity should
first visi i,,ii .. .. ...- . rpro-
file.html : .. .... . . .. . I I I I is on
examining coastal and marine resource governance at
national and local levels in OECS countries and
Barbados primarily using concepts from complex adap
tive systems and network analysis.
Persons should also determine if they satisfy the
UWI requirements for admission to an MPhil degree.
Refer to the UWI School or Graduate Studies and
Research 'Manual of procedures for graduate
lii-l-.: 1 '---- available at www.uwi.edu/docu
: .. -, I I., ..... .I OfProcedures_2005.pdf or con
sult the School directly. The minimum admission
requirement for an MPhil programme is an Upper
Second Class Honours first degree or its equivalent.
CERMES will consider persons with natural science,
social science or interdisciplinary first degrees.
Preference will be for degrees that included marine
resource studies and for candidates familiar with
Caribbean countries. Candidates in an MPhil pro
gramme are required to register for some graduate
courses, but this degree is awarded primarily on the
basis of a research thesis. Strong research and field
work skills are essential. The UWI Graduate Studies
process for application to do an MPhil will apply.
Persons who are both interested and eligible may
contact the project with an expression of interest, a
recent CV and a copy of their academic transcript. E
mail the project at email@example.com.
Got Eco-News? Send it to
Free Download from UKHO
The UK Hydrographic Office is making available as a
free download from its website a comprehensive
guide to electronic charts and chart carriage require-
ments an essential tool for all mariners.
The second edition of "Facts about Electronic Charts
and Carriage Requirements", updating the original
2005 guide, has been created by the two leading
ENC centres International Centre for ENCs (IC-ENC)
and PRIMAR Stavanger. Written in an easy-to-read
"question and answer" style, this guide answers over
20 of the most commonly asked questions. It details
regulations in force today, and is set to provide a use-
ful reference for anyone involved in the production,
purchase, regulation or use of electronic charts.
There are now many ECDIS systems on the market
and almost 6,000 official ENCs are available from the
UK Hydrographic Office. However, lack of knowledge
and understanding of the relevant carriage regula-
tions has long been highlighted by industry commen-
tators as one of the main reasons for hesitation in
adopting ECDIS as the primary navigation tool.
The new guide, which will continue to be expanded
and updated to ensure it remains accurate, was cre-
ated by a Joint Information Working Group of the two
To access the free download, visit
www.ukho gov uk/amd/carriageRequirements. asp.
BVI Charter Companies' Staff Party Fun
At the end of September, Sunsail Tortola hosted a bar-
becue and party for all employees of Sunsail,
Moorings, Moorings Power and Footloose charters in
the BVI, at Long Bay Beach, Beef Island. "This is the first
employee event we have had since becoming neigh-
bors within the Wickhams Cay II Marina," said Nic
Parton, Group Operations Manager. "We had an
excellent turnout, with many families enjoying barbe-
cued food, drinks, music and fun. The highlight of the
Grenada's Whisper Cove Marina Re-Opens
Long-time liveaboards Luke and Marie are now at the
helm of Grenada's Whisper Cover Marina. According
to Barbara Groome of S/Y Turtle, with all their experi-
ence of life on the ocean waves, the couple are ideal-
ly placed to understand the needs of cruisers and to
accommodate their requirements effectively and with-
out breaking the budget. Whisper Cove is a small, very
day was definitely the staff raffle, where staff won
prizes donated by our friends at The Tamarind Club,
Smiths Ferries, Boardsailing BVI, Leverick Bay, Mainsail
Resort, Colombian Emeralds, Nexus, Renport, K Mart
Boaters' Enterprise of Trinidad Restructures
The well-known Boaters' Enterprise Ltd, which has
served recreational boating interests in Trinidad and
promoted Trinidad's yacht service industry to the
world for the past 13 years, is currently undergoing
restructuring. The Boaters' Enterprise office has tem-
porarily moved to Cascade until new premises at
Chaguaramas can be found. Phone, fax numbers
and e-mail address remain unchanged (see below).
The website BoatersEnterprise.com remains in opera-
tion as the major link between cruisers and
Chaguaramas's yacht services and vendors.
The popular monthly Boca magazine will be temporari-
ly suspended, possibly to be re-designed as a quarterly
publication with more pages, a longer "ad life", and
even more articles of interest to the boating communi-
ty in Trinidad. Meanwhile, Boaters' Enterprise will offer
uninterrupted professional graphic design, advertising
and promotional services, and continue as the Trinidad
advertising sales and distribution agent for Caribbean
Compass. The indispensable annual Boaters' Directory
of Trinidad & Tobago will continue publication, with the
next edition on target for June 2008.
For more information, e-mail sales@boatersenter-
prise.com, or call or fax (868) 634-2622.
reasonably priced marina with power and water avail-
able as well as washing and drying facilities. Garbage
can also be disposed of correctly for a small fee.
The pretty, colourful restaurant is just steps away from
the dinghy dock and offers free WiFi internet access.
The beer is cold and the food is excellent when not
cruising, Luke and Marie previously ran a large hotel
and restaurant at Cap Haitien in Haiti, where they
specialised in French Mediterranean cuisine.
Whisper Cove is situated in a quiet location on the
east side of Clarkes Court Bay. Luke and Marie are
looking forward to welcoming cruisers in English,
French or German and tempting tastebuds with
Luke's great cooking.
For more information see ad on page 4.
Hiking in Richmond Vale, St. Vincent
Corbin Littell, a volunteer at the Richmond Vale
Academy, St. Vincent writes: In a remote location in St.
Vincent, just past Chateaubelair and close to the tower-
ing Soufriere volcano sits the Richmond Vale Academy.
The Academy's grounds serve as a volunteer training...
Continued on page 34
Th firs chic for
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to Save Windjammer
Cruises by Norman Faria
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Up to press time in mid-October, effort' ---r- -n-i;- t- try and get the 60-year
old Florida-based Windjammer Barefoot i ....- II 11 .. .. financial sandbanks.
The family-owned operation, whose venerable schooners such as the Yankee
Clipper (built in 1927) and the Mandalay (1923) -the much written about Fantome
was lost in Hurricane Mitch off the Central American coast in 1999 -were fre
quently seen in Eastern Caribbean ports, have cancelled cruises in recent weeks.
Press reports, including in Guyana from where several crew members are sourced,
tell of some of the vessels being tied up in Aruba, Trinidad, Costa Rica and Panama.
In the case of Aruba, the Red Cross there were called upon to help feed the
crewmembers who included 20 Guyanese, six Jamaicans and three each from
Grenada and St. Vincent, according to the report in the Kaiteur News newspaper in
Web posts from disgruntled people who had paid for the Windjammer trips found
recording' 'win- the sails were being kept furled "due to safety matters that can
not be :... i i1. early October, Travelex Insurance said it would Ir 1-n'-r insure
cruises. The American Society of Travel Agents warned members .1 ,,I I. I of
payments" to the Windjammer Barefoot Cruises firm.
The firm, founded by Captain Mike Burke in 1947 and popular for its laid-back
ambiance and operating of sailing vessels that actually could sail without auxiliary
motors, however maintains a website in which it optimistically urges long-time sup
porters and others to be patient.
It concedes that the business is indeed "in the midst of a storm". It goes on: "We
are actively working with several investor groups on a viable plan to continue the
SI ....... ,, I .1 .". It was signed by Operations Manager Danny Walsh, who is
. i i ...ider.
Information is also provided about obtaining refunds. Those in the US who paid by
credit card can, under US law which provides for refunds when services are unde
livered, petition the credit card company to get back their money.
Windjammer Barefoot Cruises ships, like those seen here in Grenada's Carenage in
1990, have not only provided fun and affordable sailing vacations for passengers
but also steady employment for scores of Caribbean captains and crewmembers
over the years
According to the Seattle Times of 12 October, "critical payments" have been made
to shipboard staff and debt i i, ,, .1-
Questions still remain abc .i I1 1 .... -. difficulties. The Times article opined that
"fierce divisions and legal battles among the family members who control the com-
pany" had "culminated in the cessation of cruises".
Those in the travel business, and the small island economies in the Eastern
Caribbean as well as coastal ports in the circum-Caribbean area, depend on the
income from visits of cruise ships. They hope a mutually satisfactory and amicable
solution will soon be found to the present difficulties and that these fine vessels and
happy visitors and crew will once again be sailing.
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kay, full disclosure: Compass's editor, along
with five other regional journalists, was invited
on an all-expense-paid visit to Grenada on
October 10th and llth by Peter de Savary, an entire
preneur who has been instrumental in developing top
end clubs, resorts and real estate ventures around the
world. (Think Skibo Castle in Scotland, where Madonna
got married.) This media trip was part of de Savary's
effort to promote his new investments in Grenada
and Grenada itself as a destination bcth r-.i -ll
and internationally. Peter de Savary, or I 1 - .
staff all call him, has already invited over 50 journalists
Guardian (UK), All at Sea and Boat International Our
group included freelance journalist Tony Fraser from
Trinidad, who is a correspondent for BBC Caribbean,
the Associated Press and the Trinidad Express; veteran
reporter Trevor Yearwood and photographer Sandy Pitt
from the Nation newspaper of Barbados; and reporter
presenter Keriann Lee and cameraman Raymond
Lawson from Television Jamaica. As we were leaving,
we met the next group of visiting international journal
ists, which included the Moscow desk editor of Robb
Report. If the Revolution and Ivan didn't put Grenada on
the map, PDS is determined to.
Compass's main interest, of course, was PDS's mari
na project which is transforming St. George's Lagoon.
The EC$1.5 billion Port- ;i--- ;,,--i '--t il.-s to
include a marina with u1 i -- ...i II. .1.. for
yachts up to 100 metres, two hotels, 37 lots for villas
-. i d i
Above: The man with the plan -Peter de Savary and
his constant companion, Louie
Right: The plan -a complete build out of both
proposed dock phases shown here would fill much of
the currently open area of St. George's Lagoon
and 22 hillside apartments. Plans also call for a West
Indian-style marina village ("We don't want to give peo
ple Florida in the Caribbean"), with shops .; -
from designer goods to local handicrafts, which '1 i
open to all; only the private residential area will be
gated. A Customs and Immigration office will be on
site. Port Louis has obtained a 99-year lease from the
Grenada g( ........ .. ,
Knowing I i i II .. I 1 .1
published .1 "... i after being wined and dined,
we tried to i.. i I I ...... our visit. It wasn't easy.
What's BIG, GREEN
Grenada's Port Louis Project
Cruisers, especially those on a budget, have lament
ed the loss of free anchorage in the Lagoon (anchoring
was prohibited during dredging this summer, and a
complete build-out of both dock phases in the plans
would virtually fill the Lagoon), so we raised the issue.
PDS fired back, "I strongly object to those who pump
.1 -t-I--.-.t into the Lagoon. I have no sym-
11 I' i i but anyone is welcome to pay
the normal fee at the dock where every berth will have
a pump-out." Marina plans include a small waste
treatment plant, which will feed into the existing
municipal sewage system, and assistance has been
offered to the government to help prevent sewage and
other contaminated run-off from the surrounding land
entering the Lagoon.
The Port Louis people have already removed "hun
dreds of tons" of derelict vessels, cars, the tail of a US
military helicopter and other junk from in and
around the Lagoon, and transported most of the con
tents of master metalworker Lincoln Ross's large
waterside scrapyard to another site.
Continued on next page
Secure Moorings & Dockage Routine Maintenance
Technical Installations New and Used Yacht Brokerage
Full Service Marinas Professional Delivery
Horizon Yacht Management .. Authorized dealers
a dedicated private management service.
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Continued from previous page
Although th- T -.--n h.- been used as a de facto
dump ,, I I .. PDS says, "Give me anoth
er nine or ten months -it's not beyond repair."
- ...... i ... . ..... Donelan adds that the marina
i- ......... I 1 1.na" standards [see www.lee
What of socio-economic issues? Since the demise of
Grenada Yacht Services, a marina which had its hey
day in the Lagoon in the 1960s and '70s, yachtspeople
anchoring in the Lagoon have interacted with locals
and contributed to the support of many businesses
along the shoreline. What impact will the new marina
have on the .. ..1.1 .1 I ... .-..... businesses?
Jonathan ...... i I .I ... I Water World
chandi .- ,, .. ,, i i says he sees Port Louis as a
step : ., I i . i -yachting infrastructure and
feels that "competition is healthy." Charter yacht
owner/operator Mosden Cumberbatch, who grew up in
the neighborhood, tells Compass, "There are always peo
ple who object to change, but I know a lot of skilled guys
from here working in Tortola or Fort Lauderdale on
yachts who would want to come home, and this can be
that PDS has proposed for the locally owned charter and
fishing boats that will be displaced from their former
moorings. (The Grenada Yacht Club and the small local
ly owned docks on the east side of the Lagoon will not be
displaced by the marina development.)
It is estimated that the new marina will create some
50 jobs. Key posts such as Marina M .nr -r (Danny
Donelan) and Dockmaster (Juni ..II. have
already been filled by Grenadians. The marina's PR
team of Francine Stewart and Barry Collymore are
What about safety and security in the area? Boats at
anchor in the Lagoon have been targets of theft, off
and on, for decades. And the old GYS site and its envi
rons ("Ballast Ground") had become distinctly unsa
vory of late -in September 2006, there was a drug
related assassination in the then-secluded area, steps
from where the marina's Victory Bar now stands.
Danny tells us that there are now plans for a 24/7
Lagoon security patrol.
Who is this PDS, then, and why has he chosen to
invest in Grenada? The intense, high-energy 63-year
old tells us that, of English 'i-nt':- he spent his
early boyhood in Venezuela ... I,, .... to Grenada
with his family, on vacation, in 1952. They stayed at
the old Islander Hotel, which sat on the hilltop that is
slated to be the centerpiece of Port Louis's residential
and hotel area. "I learned to handle a boat in Grenada,"
he says. "It was here I fell in love with boats and the
Grenada, he says, is an excellent location for a mari
na because, being below the hurricane belt, it can be
enjoyed year round; plus there are good air links, a
stable government and "a tremendous level of cooper
action and -, 1 ,.-., 1,,.". He adds that there are
many thing'- I I I 1. boat ("some places you just
want to get on the boat and leave"), as well as excel
lent sailing conditions, various anchorages, good snor
keling and 1..... --.11 restaurants, for those
who want to i .. .i i ... I. marina.
Ground was broken for the marina one year ago.
Buildings erected so far, such as the Victory Bar & Grill
which opened in April, are mostly of simple wooden con
struction with galvanized roofs. The Dutch construction
company that built Grenada's new cruise ship terminal
was hired to do the "heavy lifting", using dredging and
other equipment conveniently already on-island. The
company, Volker Stevin, employs local labor.
The entrance to the Lagoon is be-..- 11-- 1 to 20
feet. At the time of our visit, in the .- i, weeks
alone, two and a half acres of "reclaimed" land had been
created behind a concrete sea-wall where yachts will
eventually tie up sternto. A target date of December 1st
has been set to be ready for up to 70 large boats which
are planning to come here for the holidays.
"Boats have been my life," says PDS, who led the
British team in its 1. .11 .. i )r the America's Cup in
1983, aboard Victk, t1 i -I to Australia 1I in the
heats.) "I understand what boatowners and crew want,
and I think Port Louis is going to work for all of them."
Former Minister of Tourism, the Hon. Brenda Hood,
told the ,- ., i .1rnalists that she feels it will work for
Grenada I don't want mass tourism, we want
upscale tourism that is year-round." And, rather than
create a resented enclave for the elite, she said she feels
thatP .1 1 ...- . .. i . ..1... -I George's
area, I .. .... .. i. 1. i of it.
Prime Minister the Hon. Keith Mitchell told our group
of journalists that Grenada's economy is -1.1 -. .....
the impacts of Hurricane Ivan in 2004: : .... ...
agriculture, tourism and taxes dried up; foreign aid was
Left: Piles being setfor dock at eastern end of mega berths
Below: Cautious optimism. Chandlery manager
Jonathan Fisher, at left, sees healthy competition, and
charter operator Mosden Cumberbatch anticipates
opportunities for his countrymen
diverted to countries affected by the southeast Asian
tsunami; and some infrastructure still needs repair. He
says that Peter de Savary's extensive investments in
Grenada are creating jobs, training opportunities, and
awareness of Grenada as a destination in ways the gov
ernment currently can't afford to do.
In his office with a bird's-eye view of the marina site,
he told us, "There have been many marina proposals,
but every time our hopes were raised, they were
dashed. The proposals always lacked the necessary
'teeth' to make the -i .lit Glancing out the
window, he added, .- . ... ... I would
never see the Lagoon cleaned up in m I i .... "
Young Grenadian Sailors' Race Day
After Tropical Storm Felix blew the first day off the cal-
endar, the Grenada Sailing Association (GSA) togeth-
er with the Grenada Yacht Club (GYC) re-scheduled
Tomorrow's sailors today. Graduates of Grenada's
Summer Programme 2007 at their Race Day
their Junior Race Day for September 15th. The day
marks the close of the Summer Sailing Programme run
by GSA and GYC.
A group of 15 young sailors was divided into two class-
es Optimist and Mosquito dinghies and a day of
competitive racing kicked off. The youngsters showed
the skills they had learned throughout the summer and
the positions were closely contested. The Optimist
Class winners were: first, Kenzo Szyjan; second, Clinton
Brathwaite; third, Shakeem Collins; fourth, Kendel
Martin. The Mosquito Class winners were: first, Joshua
James; second, Johnathan Elibox; third, Nicholas
Cherman; fourth, brothers Shane and Shevon Hardle.
The day ended with a presentation attended by Veda
Bruno Victor of the Grenada Olympic Committee and
Ashley Steele, Treasurer of the Grenada Yacht Club. As
well as prizes provided by the GSA, GYC and Budget
Marine, all the youngsters were given certificates for
the day, plus certificates acknowledging their atten-
dance at the GSA/GYC Summer Sailing School.
Certificates went to Taite Lehov, Tarvin Joseph, Sydney
Baptiste, Neilon Aberdeen. Joshua Tuson, Michael
Weber, Alvis Cudjoe and Ryan Mohan. Four young
sailors from Carriacou who had taken part in the
Summer Sailing Programme will also be receiving cer-
tificates. As well as his prize for first place in the
Mosquito Class, Joshua James also received a special
commendation and a Budget Marine Cap for attend-
ing every day of the Summer Programme. A family vis-
iting in their yacht from the USA were also invited to
take part in the day, and Solomon, Summer and Sam
Jackson took home certificates as a reminder of a fun
day sailing in Grenada.
Association Treasurer Jacqui Pascall commented: "The
Summer Sailing Programme that we have run with the
Yacht Club has been a huge success and many
thanks go to our instructor Kevin Banfield and trainee
instructors Vaughn Bruno and Michael McQueen who
have worked very hard, and to our young Grenadian
sailors who have been showing great commitment -
whatever their level of experience."
She went on to thank the Grenada Olympic
Association for help with funding for the important
Instructor Training Course initiated this year, and the
Management Committee of the Grenada Yacht Club
for its support of the Programme as well as for provid-
ing the venue.
At the Prize Presentation, Mrs. Bruno Victor told the
young sailors that the Grenada Olympic Committee
was particularly pleased to add sailing to its list of
sports supported in its Talent Identification Programme
for summer 2007 and she encouraged them to contin-
ue to train for the future. Mr. Steele spoke of the
Grenada Yacht Club's commitment and support for
the continuation of this important Youth Sailing
Programme and told the young sailors present to tell
their friends to join in and enjoy the fun of sailing.
The Grenada Sailing Association would also like to
thank Budget Marine for its long-term backing of
youth sailing, and Turbulence Grenada Ltd, the
Grenada Sailing Festival Committee and American
Airlines for essential safety equipment.
For more information contact Jacqui Pascall (473)
415-2022/443 5452, or Sarah Baker 456-0914.
Near-Record Catch in 17th St. Lucia Billfish
The annual St. Lucia Billfish Tournament, which ended
on September 29th, was this year held in Marigot Bay
for the first time. The biggest catch, a marlin weighing
657 pounds, fell only 50 pounds short of the competi-
tion record. Daniel Agostini, fishing from Trinidadian
boat Gud Tyme, caught the winning marlin with 80-
Out of 23 boats entered, only five were from St. Lucia
'A.L 4 *
What a haul! St. Lucia's Exodus crew and their new
billfish trophy collection
but it was a St. Lucian boat, Exodus, which won the
biggest collection of prizes, including Best Overall
Boat, SLGFA Change Trophy, Trinidad Game Fishing
Association's Trophy for the Best Non-Trinidadian Boat,
The Game Fishing Association of Martinique's Best St.
Lucian Boat, Qualification for the Captain and Crew
to take part in the 2008 IGFA Offshore Championship
(to be held in Cabo San Lucas, Mexico), Best Boat
Third Day, Most Releases and Best Angler by Releases.
Continued on next page
www.antigua-marina.com email@example.com Tel: +1 268 460 6054 Fax: +1 268 460 6055
.. ... i r, a ge
C r .,- -i. : i :,-, : hook-ups, a total of 26
billfish were caught. Twenty-five 20 blue marlin,
one white marlin, and four sailfish were caught
Among the winning anglers were: Best Lady Angler,
Lisa Allen on Crystal Blue; Most Wahoo, Kevin White on
Discovery; Most Sailfish, Ruth Liney on Rum'n'Coke;
Most White Marlin, "Cocco" on Follow Me IV; Best
Angler by Releases, Serge Littee of Exodus; Best Angler
by Points, Daniel Agostini on Gud Tyme.
7th Edition of Guadeloupe's Triskell Cup
From November 2nd through 4th, the 7th edition of
the now-famous Triskell Cup will take place in Pointe-
d-Pitre, Guadeloupe. In 2006, 83 teams representing
almost 600 sailors competed on the superb waters of
the Cul de Sac Marin in front of Gosier Island.
After a first day of two races followed by a cocktail
party, Day Two's two races will culminate in a special
dinner and a show with zouk music. On Sunday, two
more races precede the prizegiving ceremony at
For more information contact organisaiion@triskell-
cup.com, (590 690) 49.57.57.
Carriacou Sailing Series
The correct dates for the Carriacou Sailing Series 2007
are November 14th through 17th.
For more information contact
Port Louis Sponsors Grenada's Sail Fest and Classic
The Port Louis Grenada Sailing Festival, to be held
from January 25th to 29th, 2008, will feature races in
workboat and keelboat categories as well as kayak
and junior races.
The Port Louis Grenada Sailing Festival 2008 was offi-
cially launched on September 25th. Over 200 persons
from Grenada and the Caribbean joined the organiz-
ers and new sponsors Port Louis Grenada at the new
Port Louis Marina's Victory Bar for the biggest pre-
event celebration in the history of the Sailing Festival.
Among those enjoying the evening were Minister of
Works, Hon. Brenda Hood; Minister of Private Sector
Development, Hon. Einstein Louison; Sailing Festival
Chairman, Jimmy Bristol, and his entire team, and Port
Louis Chairman, Peter de Savary.
Cocktails and champagne were followed by speech-
es as Minister Hood, Mr. Bristol and Mr. de Savary all
endorsed the Festival and committed to developing it
into one of the best in the world. Both government
and the festival committee commended Port Louis
Grenada for making a long-term commitment to
sponsoring the sailing festival. Port Louis Grenada has
committed to sponsoring the Sailing Festival for the
next three years. During this time Port Louis and the fes-
tival organizers will be marketing the festival globally.
Big splash! A large crowd enjoyed the official launch
party of Grenada Sailing Festival 2008, to be sailed
January 25th through 28th
Port Louis Grenada is also helping to bring another
major sailing event to Grenada. On October 11 th,
Port Louis announced its Silver Sponsorship of the
Grenada Classic Yacht Regatta. The Regatta will be
held from February 21st through 24th, 2008.
Port Louis Chairman, Peter de Savary, described the
race as a unique event. "These classic yachts sailed
our waters years ago and I know that most
Grenadians have not seen these kinds of yachts for
many years. We at Port Louis Grenada are therefore
delighted to be a major sponsor of this event." He
noted that his organization would continue to sponsor
worthwhile events in Grenada, including the Grenada
Round the Island Easter Regatta and the Grenada
Additional sponsors of the event include Bel Air
Plantation (www.belairplantation.com) as a Silver
Sponsor, Shipwrights Ltd. (www.shipwrights.com) and the
Maritime School of the West Indies (www.msw.org ).
Several other organizations are in the process of commit-
ting their sponsorship to the Grenada Classic Regatta.
For more information visit on the Grenada Sailing
Festival visitwww.grenadasailingfestival.com. For
more information on the Grenada Classic Yacht
Regatta visit www classicregatta. com or e-mail grena-
Nanny Cay Nations Cup, BVI
The 2007 Nanny Cay Nations Cup regatta will be held
November 17th and 18th. This is a "Racing In
Paradise" event in association with the RBVIYC, and is
sponsored by Nanny Cay Marina and Resort. National
pride is at stake: all team members must hold the
Teams from all over the region are expected and
entries will be closed at 22 teams. Already firmly com-
mitted are St. Maarten, Holland, Ireland, BVI (two
teams), St. Lucia, USVI, "HIHO USA", and UK and US
teams made up from local racers. Boats will be rotat-
ed, crews spend time ashore between races, the sails
Be a true sailing Ambassador to your country and take
on the world at the 2007 Nanny Cay Nations Cup!
For more information visit www.racinginparadise.com.
26th Coral Bay, St. John, Thanksgiving Regatta
This popular regatta, organized by the Coral Bay
Yacht Club, will be sailed on November 23rd and
24th, in Coral Bay and the adjacent waters of the
east end of St. John, USVI. There will be classes for
Gaffers, Single Handers, Traditional Boats, Cruising
Boats, Optimists, Lasers and 420s.
Sailing instructions will be available at time of registration.
For more information visit www.skinnylegs.com.
Get Set for a Record ARC!
The Atlantic Rally for Cruisers (ARC) is on course for a
record entry, with 240 yachts confirmed to take part
in this year's transocean cruising rally from the Canary
Islands to St. Lucia in November, topping the previous
maximum of 234 entrants in ARC 1999. With more
yachts currently on the waiting list, the final entry fig-
ure may be higher still.
World Cruising Club, the organizers of the ARC, is cur-
rently gearing up for the departure of the ARC 2007
fleet from Las Palmas de Gran Canaria on the 25th of
November. A continual programme of improvements
made by the Las Palmas Port Authority to their marina
in the heart of the city of Las Palmas has meant that
more yachts than ever before can now be accom-
modated. Furthermore, all yachts will have a pontoon
marina berth, essential while crews make their transat-
Continued on next page
Classes: Optimist (Green / White / Blue / Red)
Laser (4.7 / Radial / Standard) Snipe
,11 JPffT 'r...'" m w. PRv; Fag-
8:00am Skippers' Meeting 9:00am First Warning
10:00am First Warning 2:30pm Awards Ceremony
Pre-Registration: US$ 90.00 (on or before Dec 1st), Registration: US$ 120.00 (after Dec. 1st & before Jan 19th)
Late Registration: US$ 150.00 (after Jan 19th ) Registration will be closed after Jan. 31st
Charter Boats: Optimist / Laser, used boats upon availability. Hotels: Hotel list available
For additional information, please contact Ana Julia or Gilberto Berrios at (787) 722-0177
www.nauticodesanjuan.com firstname.lastname@example.org Fax: (787) 724-8059
This regatta announcement is not intended as the Official Notice of Race for the Club Nautico de San Juan 7th International Regatta 2008.
Club Nautico de San Juan reserves the right to make changes where appropriate and to invite additional classes to compete in this event.
Continuedfrom previous page
Plans have also been announced by IGY Marinas, the
new owners of Rodney Bay Marina in St. Lucia, the fin-
ish destination for the ARC, to expand and improve
berths, including adding more and larger docks, and
increasing the navigable depth in the marina. Work is
scheduled to start in early February and be complete
in time for ARC 2008.
Now in its 22nd year, the ARC has always had an
international audience, and 2007 is no exception, with
24 different nations represented within the fleet, and
many more nationalities are represented across the
crews, making the ARC not only the world's largest
transocean sailing event, but also its most diverse.
Entries this year range from the Ed Dubois-designed
Mariposa at 29 metres (95 feet), down to the small but
tough 7.60-metre (26-foot) Folkboat Ariel sailed by the
youngest skipper in ARC 2007, 22-year-old Henry
Adams from the UK. Fifty-three percent of the fleet lie
in the 12 to 15.24-metre (40- to 50-foot) band, with a
median size of 14.40 metres (47 feet two inches).
Dominating the entry list with 43 yachts are French
builders Beneteau, well ahead of the next most popu-
lar make, Jeanneau with 20 yachts and Oyster with 15
yachts participating. Cruising catamarans continue to
grow in popularity in the ARC fleet, with 21 taking
part; the French yards Lagoon and Fountaine Pajot
being most widely represented with ten and five
yachts entered respectively.
Conceived and often described as "a friendly race"
for cruising yachts to make the Atlantic crossing both
safer and more enjoyable, those participating must
carry a range of safety equipment including a liferaft,
EPIRB and long-range communications. Daily radio
nets contribute further to the safety of participants.
While the majority of ARC yachts are there to enjoy the
cruising fun, some skippers choose to race across the
Atlantic, under the auspices of the Royal Ocean
Racing Club in one of the ARC's two IRC Racing
Divisions. This year 28 yachts will be racing, including
seven yachts over 18.28 metres (60 feet). The Australian
maxi Lokiwill be hoping to beat the ARC course record
set last year by Italian maxi Capricorno, of 11 days, 5
hours, 32 minutes and 30 seconds, but will face some
serious competition from two Volvo 60s: AAG Big One
and Pindar, both with Russian crews racing as a warm-
up for their Volvo Ocean Race campaigns.
St. Lucia is 2,700 nautical miles from Las Palmas; the
passage will take most of the yachts between 18 and
For more information visit www.worldcruising, corn/arc.
Curagao Youth Championships
The Curacao Youth Championships will take place
January 2nd through 4th, 2008 for Optimist and
Splash dinghies. New for 2008 are the earlier dates
and the availability of boats for charter in Curacao
rather than transportation of boats from Europe.
And there is more! The venue will be different, too.
This year the races will take place at Jan Thiel
Beach, the same venue as for the Optinam that will
take place on Curacao June 28th to July 6th, 2008.
So if you expect to participate in the Optinam, this is
the opportunity to check out the bay, the wind and
Before the event, there will be a clinic (December
28th to 31st) with a top coach. The organizers advise
For more information visit www cyc2008 org or e-mail
cyc2008 org@gmail. com.
Club Transcaraibes will
be hosting its two most
popular yacht rallies
again in 2008. These are
great ways to visit a
number of Caribbean
islands aboard your
own boat in the com-
pany of a fun flotilla of
Shoreside parties are
part of the package.
The 3rd Edition of La
Route du Carnival starts
on January 26th, with
two free nights at Port
du Marin in Martinique,
moving on to overnights
in Bequia and the
Tobago Cays before
arriving in Trinidad in
time for the highlight
events of Trinidad Carnival 2008.
The Transcaraibes rally will see its ninth running from
March 29th to April 4th, 2008, sailing from
Guadeloupe to Cuba. Stops will be made in St.
Martin, the BVI and the Dominican Republic. Seven
free nights at the marina will be provided to rally
participants at the final destination,
Santiago de Cuba.
For more information visit www transcaraibes.com.
BVI's HIHO Windsurfing Event Makes 'Best' List
The annual Highland Spring HIHO windsurfing and
sailing event has been featured in the October
2007 issue of Caribbean Travel & Life magazine. The
special issue identifies 100 of the Caribbean's "best
sights, sounds and stories". The compilation is based
on the personal experiences of the Caribbean
Travel & Life team and Highland Spring HIHO was
voted "the most fun you can have standing up".
The well-known annual windsurfing and sailing
event was the only watersports event
featured in the list.
"This is certainly an accolade," commented Andy
Morrell of Ocean Promotions Ltd, organizers of the
event. "It's thrilling to hear that the Highland Spring
HIHO and the BVI are being publicized in such widely
read international magazines."
Highland Spring HIHO is a week-long, international
windsurfing and sailing event that takes place annual-
ly in the British Virgin Islands at the beginning of July.
The event is one of the best-known amateur windsurf-
ing events in the world. Started in 1979, it takes racers
and non-racing participants on a tour of the BVI.
Highland Spring HIHO is sponsored by Highland Spring
Natural Mineral Water, HIHO, The Moorings, and wind-
surfing industry companies, Neil Pryde and BIC Sport.
The 2008 edition of the event is scheduled to begin on
June 29th. For more information
visit www. go-hiho com.
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About a hundred supporters and members of the
financially strapped 50-year-old Barbados Cruising
Club gathered at the clubhouse in mid-October to go
over a rescue proposal put forward by a group of local
The balance sheet report from -1 ..... Committee
members Dr. Mike Krimholtz and I ..... Commodore
Richard Leslie wasn't too encouraging: the outstand
ing debt to the Barbados government and Needham
Point Holdings, from which the property is leased,
could not be paid from subscriptions, the telephone
was cut off and the wooden structure badly needed
repairs, among other problems.
On hand to present a case from the management
consortium was Duane Burke from the famous Burke
group of Barbadian sailing families. The bail-out plan
entailed the sorting out of the debts, commitments to
pay monthly rent and utility bills, and refurbishing
the clubhouse and environs, in return for them run
ning the bar and part of the structure as a commer
cial enterprise. Plans are also on the board to renew
contacts with the island's school system to get more
youngsters from all strata of society involved in boat
ing and marine activities including kayaking.
A Memorandum of Understanding was to be
worked out and presented to an upcoming General
Meeting for the membership to give final approval.
From the sentiments expressed at the October get
together it appears that the consortium will indeed
come on board.
The fresh wind in the sails of the boating institution
should be welcomed by all, including regional and
European and North American yachtspeople who
knew it during its heyday in the 1960s.
The Club has an interesting history. It was founded
in 1957 by a group of local and expatriate boating
enthusiasts who had difficulties with the then-named
Royal Barbados Yacht Club which is situated 200
metres along the shore of Carlisle Bay.
The Cruising Club's first Commodore was Ian Gale,
the late proprietor of the Bequia Bookstore and a for
mer editor of the Barbados Advocate newspaper.
Reminisced Gale in an interview with Tony Vanterpool
(Weekend Nation, 22 December 1989): "No reasonable
person could assert that the Royal Barbados Yacht
Club, as it was then, was not a very prejudiced insti
tution. Of course it was, and to be fair, they discrimi
nated against black and (poor) white."
In conversations with this writer when I visited
with him at the Bookstore, he said they had a found
ing meeting in the old Aquatic Club which was then
situated next to the Yacht Club. The Aquatic Club
provided some vacant changing cubicles and the
members used them until a new structure, modeled
on the St. Lucia Yacht Club building, was erected in
the early 1960s.
In fairness, the Club has in recent years received the
support of BYC (its Royal Charter was removed by the
Barbadian government) sailing members such as
Ralph "Bruggadung" Johnson, Tony and Peter Hoad,
and others knowledgeable about the significance of
the Club's existence.
The Barbados Cruising Club was popular with visit
ing yachtsmen who in years gone by were permitted to
anchor their boats off the Club in that part of Carlisle
Bay among the local yachts (now special permission
has to be obtained from the Coast Guard). It is hoped
that the new generation of cruisers will once again
The Club held an annual Regatta sponsored by the
local Banks brewery company among other activi
ties. However, during the 1990s membership fell off
and the Club had trouble paying bills. Ironically,
some former Cruising Club members took up mem-
bership at the Yacht Club; the Yacht Club's allure
includes paid boat-hands and a tractor to pull up
keelboats in their trailers.
On hand at the October gathering was Lesley
Barrow, daughter of an early member and keen sup
porter, the late Barbadian Prime Minister and now
one of its National Heroes, Rt. Hon. Errol Barrow. Also
present was Sir Keith Hunte, former Chancellor of the
Barbados campus of the University of the West Indies.
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Here's one way to change the word POLE to the
word HEAT by replacing one letter at a time:
This way takes seven steps.
Can you make it in fewer steps?
to tell our advertisers you
saw their ad in Compass!
Two Freshwater Warnings
by Tina Dreffin
You're in the tropi-= h-.lin deep into the dark
rainforest for some i,',. II .1 the local waterfall.
Chances are, your excursion will be enhanced by the
attendance of a horde of island children who will
entertain and impress you with their waterfall antics.
But, before you jump in for a cool swim, you might
consider the mysterious creatures that may lurk
beneath the waters and like to bore into skin, lay eggs,
invade organs, and generally wreak havoc! There are two
parasitic diseases you can contract when "r'Timmin? in
Caribbean fresh waters: schistosomiasis I '
my-uh-sis) and leptospirosis (lep-to-spy-RO-sis).
Schistosomiasis first came to my attention when my
husband Peter and I were invited aboard M/V Red
Dragon in Puerto Rico, where I became acquainted
with the captain's wife, a lovely wheelchair-bound
woman, possessed with a lively cruising spirit. She'd
contracted the disease from .... in the cool fresh
waters of St. Lucia two years I I Because she was
diabetic, and since an accurate diagnosis was delayed,
her case had developed into a seizure, resulting in
paralysis, then the wheelchair.
What is schistosomiasis? It is an infection caused by
flukes, otherwise known as worms of the variety trema-
tode, that live in fresh water. According to the article by
Dr. Marybeth Ellison in the July 2005 issue of
Compass, the worms' eggs are released via urine or
stool of an infected animal; they then penetrate the tis
sue of a variety of freshwater snails. These snails then
release the free-swimming parasitic larvae of the
trematode worm into the water, where they then pene
trate the skin of an unsuspecting swimmer. During the
process of penetration, the larvae lose their tails and
enter the blood circulation. These schistosomulae, as
they are now called, then migrate to the portal blood
supply in the liver, and mature into adult worms.
What are the symptoms? According to Dr. Ellison,
symptoms can present as soon as two weeks after
infection, but can also be delayed as long as several
months. Initial presenting clinical symptoms include
abdominal pain, diarrhea, and fever. On exam, one
will have an enlarged, uncomfortable liver and spleen.
The most common acute syndrome is Katayama Fever;
which includes fever, lack of appetite, weight loss,
abdominal pain, blood in the urine, weakness,
headaches, joint and muscle pain, diarrhea, and nau
sea. Since the eggs are disseminated in the blood
stream, one can also see a variety of symptoms and
clinical findings depending on where .. migrate.
For example, there can be pulmonary .....i manifes
stations with cough and pulmonary hypertension.
There can be ectopic eggs in the spinal cord, resulting
in -. .1 -. -; -tr neurological manifestations,
like ... .. i.. .. i ... Puerto Rico aboard Red Dragon,
who was sadly, very unlucky.
How do I know if I have it? The examination of stool
samples is the simplest route to diagnosis. This can be
performed at most island hospitals' microbiology sec
tions; or it can be sent to larger laboratories on Puerto
Rico or Trinidad by the local medical lab. Since the
shedding of eggs can be sporadic, several stool sam
ples would be optimal, to increase the likelihood of
diagnosis. If tested outside the Caribbean, be sure to
tell your doctor of your recent foreign travels, and that
you may have come into contract with contaminated
fresh water. A simple blood test is available at the
Center for Disease Control --- -1- --1
What is the treatment? .1... .I I .ny parasitic
infection should be done in consultation with a physi
cian, as the shedding of dead worms and eggs can
result in increased symptoms for a transient period.
But after a couple days of taking the appropriate
tablets, you should be cured.
This serious disease is more common in the
Caribbean islands than schistosomiasis. It first came to
my attention "- hpn -rllimmin in thP "-,rtPT rll p'nl in
G renada i' ... .... i .....I 1 .. 1 . I 1 ., i
would have it, my friend's son contracted the dreaded
leptospirosis. Thankfully he recovered, after suffering
terribly. His parents had despaired, trying to figure out
what exactly was wrong with him, as the disease mim-
ics other tropical diseases such as dengue fever, malar
ia and typhus. So, an accurate diagnosis was late in
coming, .' .. 1 -..1.h ... ,11 I oy's death. (All this
on the t-,I ,, i i ...... ... too!)
What is leptospirosis? It is caused by a corkscrew
shaped Leptospira bacterium that resides in wild or
domesticated mammals inhabiting areas around fresh
water pools or streams. They excrete the organism
through their urine or fluids of parturition into waters or
even damp soil. When summer rains come, it is spread
through ground saturation and run-off into the nearby
pools. The parasites then enter the body through broken
skin, mucous membranes, .
What are the symptoms? I, "- 11 ., mild, like
the flu or dengue fever, and many mild cases go undi
agnosed. Usually between five and 20 days after infec
tion, numerous symptoms are: fever, chills, nausea,
vomiting, diarrhea, muscle aches, eye inflammation,
rash, anemia, or cough.
~~5~ at~ r
Waterfalls are a delight, but do your homework to avoid
fresh water streams that could be home to parasites
Dr. Ellison wrote in the December 2004 issue of
Compass: "The worrying thing about leptospirosis is
that it has a very variable presentation, and it is in
some cases fatal. Five to ten percent of people with
leptospirosis will be unlucky enough to develop a sec
ond phase of the disease after a brief hiatus of
improvement over a period of one to three days.
During this biphasic, degenerating illness, one
becomes very ill quickly and needs to seek out a med
ical facility. It is actually during this second phase
(referred to as the im- n-1-i- phase) that one can
develop liver failure . i ..i... splenic crisis, sys
temic colla, ... ....,.I- encephalitis, and death."
Howdo I I .. .1 1 1.. A special blood test is avail
,i 1 i .. .1 .. .1 i .i .. or health departments.
i 11 1' .1... I i .i-ly on in the disease
process, leptospirosis is easily treatable through
antibiotics: penicillin, amoxicillin, tetracycline, or
doxycycline. If specific organ systems become involved
in the second phase of the illness, then one will likely
require life-sustaining care for those systems as well.
There is no vaccine available; however, if you are
traveling and think you might be exposed to contami
nated waters, chemoprophylaxis is advisable with
doxycycline (200 gm orally, weekly), begun one or two
days before, and continuing through, the period of
exposure. Also, cover cuts and abrasions with occlu
sive dressings to minimize infection possibilities when
swimming in fresh water near animals.
As an international cruiser with 100,000 blue water
miles under my belt in over 25 years of living aboard
Scud, our 44-foot catamaran, neither schistosomiasis
nor leptospirosis will keep me from plunging into the
gorgeous pools of the Caribbean islands. Now that I
am empowered with information, I'll simply continue
taking precautions and keep on jumping!
For more information, recorded messages on travel relat
ed health topics are available by calling 877 FYI TRIP toll
free. Every two years, the CDC (www.cdc.gov) publishes
the Yellow Book: Health Information for International
Travel, which contains advice on health risks.
A QUESTION OF BALANCE
A year or so ago, Compass ran a "cruiser's health"
series, describing horrible illnesses that result from
infections. This follows the trend that has been with
us since Lourr P. t- ir'' r-ini-ll--.l-].. 19th-centu
ry research i.. I .. i II....I I infections as
the enemy, .11 I I .... I...-- and strong
soap on the side of the angels.
There is much to recommend this approach, as,
apart from being stru 1 1 1.l..... . uck, few
things will smite you :..I i i .. I -1 ... a really
nasty infection. And there is no question that the dis
cover of bacteria and viruses and the implementation
of public health measures to sidestep them has made
us healthier. On the other hand, it is not the whole
story, and there is evidence that maybe we have car
ried the .111 .. ..... i...lection too far.
The wc I .- 1..11 I 1.1 which biologists divide into
two i -.ccording to cellular structure; prokary
otes II I .. and cynobacteria) and eukaryotes (the
rest of us). We should also mention viruses, which,
while not generally considered alive, consist ( i .. I.
material that can hook into your DNA and .
replicating themselves, often with devastating effects.
that allergies were the result of a dirty environment. In
the 1990s Erika Von Mutius set out to show a corre
nation between dirt and asthma, and in one of those
wonderful serendipitous science moments, found just
the opposite to be true. Since then, it has been found
that kids who have pets or are bought up on farms
have fewer allergies than those .1.1 ... spotless
homes. This hygiene hypothesis I .11 - .- become
ing more widely accepted. A recent headline in
Scotman.com said: "A bath a day puts your baby at
risk". It turns out that overbathed babies are more
prone to eczema, and health officials now recommend
bathing babies fewer than three times a week.
But it gets even weirder than that. With better food
preparation, we have shucked off many of the intes
tinal parasites that used to plague us. But did they
also confer some benefit? Crohn's disease happens
when the immune system attacks the bacteria of the
gut. It is found mainly in wealthy developed nations.
Could it have -... ,i..... I I ith a lack of para
sites? Research I i ...- I I tho.'.l. ....
He tried feeding pig whipworm eggs to .. -..
ers and got a 72 percent remission rate. These results
Isolation is unhealthy
We humans think of ourselves as singular beings,
separate from other life around us. The truth is
messier. We might be more aptly described as colonial
animals comprising one big multicellular eukaryote,
plus numerous bacteria and a fungus or two. Most of
the bacteria reside in our digestive tract and are
essential to our proper functioning. Apart from help
ing us digest, they assume control of some of our
genes and this helps us regulate water absorption and
the formation of intestinal blood vessels.
The bacteria within our bodies outnumber the rest
of our cells by something like ten to one. When all goes
well, this collection of life forms exists in harmony.
This happy circumstance is the result of millions of
years of coevolution, and one reason the whole system
works is that we have a complex immune system to
sort out bad infections from good. Part of our immune
system (called the innate immune system) evolved a
long time ago, and we share it with insects, plants and
fungi. Our more recently evolved adaptive immune
system is shared only with other vertebrates. This sys
tem checks out an intruder, figures out the best way
to kill it, then attacks it with specially designed and
produced cells. It also remembers the intruder for a
long time and will be ready to bop it the next time it
shows its ugly face, a feature doctors make use of
when they give us a vaccination.
The delicate balance of the whole setup is fascinat
ing. If your immune system is not acti ...1. you
get sick and can die (this can also I '11 ,i your
immune system is good, but the infection has learnt
how to fool it, or if it multiplies so fast it kills you before
you kill it). On the other hand, if you have an overac
tive immune system, it may attack the dust in the air
you breathe, or certain foods that you eat, giving you
allergies. It may even attack some of your own cells as
in multiple sclerosis, when the immune system attacks
the myelin sheath of the nerves, and rheumatoid
arthritis, when your joints get attacked. A significant
number of humans die from infections or get auto
immune diseases, which shows how evolution is
always a balance, what a juggling act our immune sys
teams perform, and how lucky we are if we escape.
None of this is static -neither our immune system,
nor our bacteria, nor the cells in our body. Changes in
our mood, or environment, or even an infection that
passes unnoticed, can have an effect. However, as we
have become cleaner, autoimmune disease has
become much more common. Allergies to food like
nuts, once rare, are now so common many schools
have banned them on their grounds. Asthma and hay
fever have also increased dramatically. In a recent
study it was found one in every three people was
affected by some sort of allergy during their lifetime.
Because things like heavily polluted air and second
hand smoke can trigger asthma, it used to be thought
have since been confirmed by others. Studies on mice
show that worms might help prevent Type 1 diabetes
The conclusion would seem to be we cannot, nor
should we try to, avoid all infection; rather, we need to
be choosy about our infections. An analogy might be
human society -we need to interact with other peo
ple; isolation is unhealthy. However, we should try to
avoid dealing with conmen, rapists, muggers and
murderers. We can help ourselves, both in the case of
people and infections, but life is not risk-free and
there are no guarantees.
What does all this have to do with cruisers? I have
noticed that some cruisers these days take what I
would consider to be rather extensive precautions
against infections. I have met people who would not
walk barefoot in a river or swim in a waterfall. I have
read about people who wash every piece of salad in
potassium permanganate. Many only drink bottled
water. And I am not going to say they are wrong
everyone has to navigate their own path in life. But the
feeling I get:- 11, i ,,,. I is a lot less fun
and may no, i i ... .. ... while avoiding
obvious and dangerous infections is common sense.
Taking precautions against AIDS is a good example,
as is avoiding bathing in slow-running rivers in
Guadeloupe or South America where bilharzia may be
a risk. If a blood-sucking bat partook of my body, I
would definitely get a rabies shot. When mosquito
borne dengue fever is around, I use "Off'.
But the anti-bacteria message is so accepted that it
is hard to find regular, as opposed to anti-bacterial,
soap. The advertising industry seems to have sold us
on the idea we will somehow be healthier if we kill off
the bacteria on our skins. Washing our hands well
with regular soap before eating does help get rid of
extra bacteria or viruses that might be hitching a ride
and would like nothing better than to be invited into
our digestive tracts. But upping the ante by using
anti-bacterial soap may not be wise. We have learnt to
live with whatever bacteria regularly hang out on our
skin. Attacking them with a specially prepared soap
will either cause them to evolve a more resistant strain
or kill them, in which case it may provide opportuni
ties for other, tougher, and possibly meaner, bacteria
to move in.
All in all, I take this as excellent news for the few
original Caribbean sailors I still know who won't let a
razor near their face, and would rather kiss a toad
than take a bath.
Book references (I highly recommend these books,
both of which are really fun to read):
Infection by GeraldN. Callahan, St. Martin's Press, 2006
Why Zebras Don't Get Ulcers, Robert M. Sapolsky,
Owl Books, 2004
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TOURS & CRUISES CAR & JEEP RENTAL
When I return to England every year, my landlubber friends groan when they see me.
"You're still so fit and slim!" (They mean despite my 63 years.) "But of course it's easy for you, pulling up all
those anchors and sails, swimming every day and eating all that fish," they say.
Hmm! I hate to disillusion them, but the last boat I spent any serious amount of time on had an electric wind
lass and the owner preferred to hoist the sails himself when we went to sea, which was a rare event. Also they
tend to forget that I'm allergic to fish. (I have now developed the habit of reminding them before every dinner invi
station to save embarrassment.)
To tell the truth, I have the same problems keeping fit afloat as I did ashore. When the boat chores mount up I
find it tempting to jump into a taxi to shop, farm the laundry out, use a watermaker instead of carrying jerry jugs
and pay someone else to clean the bottom of the boat. After all, I didn't adopt this lifestyle to slave away at chores
all day. did I? (Don't tell me, I know: it still seems to happen that way.)
So how do I keep reasonably fit and slim, even when it's not always easy to get ashore?
I tried yoga, which is recommended for overall physical and mental health and doesn't need bulky and expen
sive equipment. But try standing on your head in the saloon and I can guarantee that a jet-ski or fishing boat will
come past at just the right speed to produce maximum wake. Then, just as you get yourself tied into an intricate
knot, you hear your partner coming back so you decide to hold the pose to impress him/her and, lo and behold,
they have bought a surprise guest with them and there you are, bent double, with your head between your legs
and rear end in the air.
Weight training is efficiently effective for keeping in trim, but can you imagine the kind of damage a loose ten
pound dumbbell would do in Force Eight? And why not just carry the water, the fuel and the groceries?
Walking is a favourite activity of mine. I find it relaxing, mentally as well as physically. Sometimes I have come
across other walkers and shared memorial 1 1i"1 i.... 1. rainforests in Grenada and Trinidad, or gone out
with local Hash House Harriers, groups o. ....- i i i, ,i with a running problem".
by Julia Bartlett
But it isn't always easy to get ashore for exercise and I have had a cou
ple of nasty falls out of the dinghy trying to beat the surf. (One was going
ashore in Juangriego on the north coast of Isla Margarita, Venezuela, as How do I keep
the swells from Hurricane Ivan were felt, so that doesn't really count.) If
there has had to be cooperation from a partner for launching the dinghy reasonably fit and
and it's given with ill grace, I find myself weighing up the options: have ft-
domestic strife plus exercise or put my feet up with a good book?
Decisions, decisions! slim, even when it's
Not all anchorages are suitable for swimming. And some of us, espe
cially guys it seems, are self-conscious about dancing when there's the
opportunity. But there is always some way of taking exercise. not always easy
I have decided 1. i i .. iit is a state of mind and a matter of being
flexible, forgive tt ...h .I there is a will there's a way, even on long to get ashore?
voyages, although sometimes it's a lot easier than others. But here are
some exercises I have found easy to do anywhere.
1) I lie flat on my back and cycle in the air with my legs to get my heart rate up
2) Still on my back, I do stomach curls. I bend my knees, keeping my feet flat on the floor/bunk and, with my
hands locked behind my neck supporting it, I use my stomach muscles to try to lift my shoulders up
3) Press ups (push ups). Keeping my back straight, I do them kneeling or against a flat surface like a table; it
doesn't have to be the full army version
4) Sitting on the very edge of a bunk, and I put my hands on it, either side of me, then I move my body forward
and dip down and lift up
5) When sitting at the wheel, I try to squash it between my hands, sit up straight and pull in my stomach and
pelvic muscles, and roll my head around slowly in both directions
i i .. .n a doorway, I try to make it wider by pushing
i i , legs back, one at a time, holding on to something or while kneeling with my hands on the floor is
g' i I I. I ,ins, I'm told (I keep getting a crick in my neck looking for improvement)
There are many more possibilities, and you'll find those that you enjoy most if you are on the look-out for them.
I find that the more I can do comfortably, the more I want to do. Start with ten minutes a day and work up, adding
eimmnini ,,q-llking and dancing whenever possible. Cans of food, full bottles of water and cartons of juice can be
SI, I I use it or lose it" is certainly becoming truer as I get older and I always start a new exercise grad
ually. Nothing puts me off exercise more than feeling sore the next day.
Then there is diet. Over the 18 years that I have lived mostly onboard it has become increasingly easy to find
great fresh veggies, even on tiny islands like Carriacou in the Grenadines, and in Luperon, in the Dominican
Republic, where greens are not a part of the local food culture. I am a vegetarian these days and really enjoy fresh
veggies and fruit, so that may be a part of the reason that I am slim. The fact is that if we eat and drink more calo
ries than we bur our bodies will store them for a rainy day. It's a matter of simple arithmetic.
So turn up the music, get into your cruising exercise routine and have fun.
PS It's a pity exercise doesn't seem to do much for my wrinkles!
We're on the Web!
~i C M PASS I .
keeping a dry tail without wearing foul-weather
trousers has been a difficult but often a suc
essful operation. Some wouldn't think that
this is an issue when sailing in the Caribbean, but on
a squally day or during a rough overnight .- : -
you'll definitely want to keep the rain and sea 11 ,
nether regions. But foul-weather trousers are just too
hot and cumbersome for the tropics.
The story of how the crew of Iolaire and i'l Iolaire
achieved dry tails starts in Great South Bay, Long
Island, in the early years of the last century when Joe
Lawrence, owner of the Gil Smith 39-foot gaff-rigged
centerboard sloop Kid had a set of Ratsey sails delivered.
was right and we kept dry tails.
Then in the late 1970s, through some Irish friends, I
was introduced to Alfie Bums who made foul-weather
gear for Aer Lingus and other airline ground crews.
Together we designed coats that had zippered fronts
with a velcro flap, good two-inch-wide velcro strips at the
wrists, and an ample hood with a chin strap -a much
better foul-weather coat than the French fishermen's.
I worked a deal and we shipped them to the
Caribbean where they became quite popular for a
number of years, but we finally gave up. It was not one
of my profitable business ventures, as the routing
from Ireland to the Caribbean had to go through the
SX5 C?7Lhae of
Ratsey's head sailmaker bent on the sails and went
for a trial sail with Joe to make sure everything was
correct. The young < i ,' .I ... i ...". i. he head
sailmaker was Ch&. I ..I I I ... I ll. of the
Charlie Ulmer who later was head of Ulmer Kolius
sails. The senior Ulmer progressed through the ranks
at Ratsey's to the point that he became head cutter,
and made enough money to buy and race Star class
boats quite extensively.
Joe Lawrence sold the Kid and raced Stars for a
few years, then became
Race Committee Chairman
of the North Atlantic Star
Championships which were
held in the Great South
Bay, as the Great South Bay
Star sailors seemed to be
the best and won the cham-
pionships year after year -
until Skip Etchells showed
up on the scene.
He became the top Star
sailor, won the North Atlantic
Star Championship and
moved it to western Long
Island Sound in 1942.
Fast forward to 1954 when I
was hired as paid hand on
Huey Long's beautiful,
Abeking & Rassmussen
designed and built, 53 foot
black yawl. The yawl's skip
per got fired a month later,
and I became skipper (with
no increase in wages). As
skipper, I had a lot of deal
ings with Charlie Ulmer who
had by then split with Ratsey
and had his own sailmaking business. He continued
to race Stars.
When he discovered I was the grandson of North
Atlantic Star Committee Chairman Joe Lawrence, he
took me under his wing and, until his dying day,
helped me in any way he could.
In the late 1950s and into the '70s, Ulmer made light
i ,i .. .l. a smock top, great in the warm
I, i ,II. -., , and the Caribbean, but not too
good up north in cold weather.
A few years after buying Iolaire and suffering regu
larly from a wet tail, I had a bright idea. I asked
Charlie if, the next time they were cutting out a bunch
of foul weather gear smocks, he would cut eight tops
e--tr' 1-n t- r- ch down to the knees.
I he said, and Iolaire's crew and
charter parties had dry tails without wearing foul
Needless tc 1, 1, 1., foul weather gear event
ally lost its "I I.. - and had to be replaced,
which we periodically did until the mid-1970s when
i... I I ....... foul weather gear.
I had noticed, when sailing in the Saintes and
Guadeloupe, the French islands' fishermen wearing
long, yellow foul weather coats. Not jackets, coats. So
off to a store in Guadeloupe that catered to the fisher
men. I 1 1.i .1.i iii. .. 1 .. 11 Ir 1l weather
coats, :. I .- I I I ,, I i ,I I the price
by Don Street
UK, and ...i i. i i .. 1 i . i.1 -.were
more tha.. II -1 i 11 I ..I .11 .. back
to the French fishermen's coats.
Then, a few years ago, I discovered that Henri Lloyd
was making some very good, long, light foul-weather
gear, absolutely ideal for the tropics, despite a slight
design error: they should have been six inches longer
as, unless you were wearing short shorts, the bottom
edge of your shorts got wet. But at least the tail
stayed dry. I discovered these coats just when Henri
After cruising the Caribbean for 50 years, Don Street
knows the importance of keeping your insides wet
and your outsides dry
Lloyd had stopped production, as they said they were
I tried (unsuccessfully) to convince them that if they
were not selling, it was not a fault of the gear but of
the sales department. I stated I was sure they would
sell if they were advertised in the Caribbean issues of
the yachting magazines and th- r-. ~n~l 1 ailing
monthlies. However, my views fell .. i I ..... I the
coats sold out and were not continued.
All is not lost, however. At the last Newport boat
show, we discovered that Gill has just started a line of
light foul-weather coats that actually look better than
the Henri Lloyd coats as they seem to be a bit longer.
I urged the sales staff at the show to pass on the sug
gestion to the head of the sales department to adver
tise in Compass, AllAt Sea and the Caribbean issues
of all the yachting -n.'-in If the sales department
does this I am sure 1. .11 I .I weather coats will sell
well and Caribbean sailors can have dry tails.
I also hear that Island Water World is importing long
foul-weather coats from Australia, so Caribbean
sailors will have a choice of two different foul-weather
coats. I wonder which will prove to be the best?
on the widest selection and the
best pnces in Grenada at our two
conveniently located supermarkets
Whether its canned goods, dairy
products, meat, fresh vegetables
or fruits, tolletnes, household goods,
or a fine selection of liquor and wine,
The Food Fairhas it all and a lot more
JONAS BROWNE & HUBBARD (G'da) Ltd
PORTHOLE RESTAURANT & BAR
& Shoreline Mini-Market
We serve breakfast,
lunch and dinner
Phone (784) 458-3458
A friendly atmosphere where you can sit and meet people.
Admiralty Bay, Bequia
Noelina & Lennox Taylor welcome you!
In addition to our famous pizza we offer
seasonal specialties and fresh baked goods.
Open from 11:00am to 10:00pm.
Closed on Mondays
Situated in Admiralty Bay, Bequia between
the Frangipani and Plantation House.
For Reservations: VHF Ch68 or Tel: (784) 458 3474
8 am to 5:30 pm
Friday until 8:45 pm
Tel: (473) 440-2588
9 am to 5:30 pm
Friday & Saturday
until 7:00 pm
Tel: (473) 444-4573
SIf you need to transport parcels, pallets,
magazines, newspapers etc... CIRExpress give
fast and efficient COURIER SERVICES to
Sthe Dutch and French side of St. Maarten/
St. Martin, offer the new delivery system
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DIESEL OUTFITTERS N.V.
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AND WARRANTY WORK
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Overhauls, Repairs and Service to all Diesel Engines,
Marine and Industrial Generators
Hurth & Borg-Warner Gearboxes
Fuel Injectors Service
Suppliers of Donaldson Filters
Cel: +599 552 7645
Phone/fax:- +599 544 2320
VCHRIS DOYLE'S GUIDES
Check out the features that make them
the Caribbean's best sellers!
Full Color sketch charts
Aerial and scenic color photography
Up-do-date, lively and relevant text
& updates on the web at
"Have you got the latest Venezuela guide yet?" J
All the info you need if you are planning a cruise!
Read in Next Month's Compass:
'Walking the Plank' in Guatemala
Antigua to the Azores Under Sail
A Cruiser's Thought for Christmas
... and more!
by Amal Thomas
Recent developments in the Southern Grenadines -Canouan, Mayreau, Union
Island, Palm Island, Petit St. Vincent and the Tobago Cays -have drawn my interest.
To get the facts, I interviewed St. Vincent & the Grenadines' former Director of
Tourism, Vera Ann Brereton, and current Director of Grenadines Affairs, Edwin Snagg.
First, let me give you some information about St. Vincent's Southern Grenadines.
Of the southernmost islands of St. Vincent & the Grenadines, only Canouan,
Union Island and Palm Island are accessible by air; the others can be reached only
by sea. The most often used gateways to these are St. Vincent, St. Lucia, Puerto
Rico, Barbados, Grenada and Trinidad. The airports are small, so you must go
1.. ..i. the above-mentioned countries and fly with air-charter companies such as
.. Mustique Airways, Grenadine Airways and Trans Island Air (TIA).
Shoreside accommodations include friendly guest houses, apartments, villas and
the world-class resorts such as Petit St. Vincent, Palm Island and Raffles. The
Grenadines are famous for seafood, and the restaurants are easy to find, because
Union Island's Clifton Harbour is the yachting hub ofSVG's Southern Grenadines
each small island is one community.
Do enjoy the various beaches and the Tobago Cays Marine Park. Our precious
clear water features some of the best diving, snorkeling and sailing in the Caribbean.
Packages can be organized: each island has tour operators and dive companies,
leaving no excuse for not experiencing the Grenadines at their best. However, the
law states that all jet-skiing is prohibited. Instead of such noisy "thrills and spills",
i1. natural environment and mingle with locals who will give you insight
: i.1 i ii from their personal history. Tourism and seafaring are the key busi
nesses of the Southern Grenadines people.
Sailors arriving in SVG waters from another country can clear Customs at
Canouan or Union Island.
When entering Canouan, the favourable anchorage is Charlestown. Be careful and
enter between the red and green markers because the harbour has some dangerous
shoals. Its advised that you anchor more to the northeast side of the harbour.
Canouan has small shops where you can get groceries, the latest news on the island
and other basic essentials. The island has one clinic and a police station. The clinic
can be reached at (784) 458-8100. For any more information, the tourism bureau in
Charlestown will assist you. Canouan's main attraction is its peaceful beaches.
Moving on a bit to the south, nine miles below Canouan is Mayreau. The little
island has a population of approximately 275, and they are generally friendly peo
ple. The island has no airport and is only accessible by boat. The best anchorages
on the island are Salt Whistle Bay (which can be crowded) and Saline Bay. On non
cruiseship days, Saline Bay is an idea get-away spot, perfect to hang out for few
days. Be sure to visit the little museum next to the Catholic church on the hilltop.
After taking in the eagle's-eye view of the Tobago Cays, stop for a cold drink or a
meal at one of the island's colourful restaurants.
Just about four and a half miles from Mayreau is Union Island. Union Island is
the Southern Grenadines' hub, which caters for yachts and other vessels entering
or clearing out of St. Vincent & the Grenadines waters. Make sure to keep one eye
on the navigational markers and one eye on the chart when entering Clifton
Harbour: cruising guides give detailed directions. Union Island can be very sunny
and windy at times, making the anchorage behind Newland's Reef dramatic. On
shore you can get groceries, souvenirs and some boat accessories, have a restaurant
meal or take a scenic hike. If you want to visit the i i .. I ays Marine Park, you
can get information and pay your entry fee at the Pa. i .I. in Clifton.
Palm Island and Petit St. Vincent (PSV) are private resort islands. You can anchor
off either one, but Palm is recommended only as a day stop.
The Interviews: Vera Ann Brereton, former Director of Tourism
Amal: As a Vincentian, what has inspired you to venture into the tourismfield?
Miss Brereton: I have always been fascinated by the field of tourism since my sec
ondary school days. Unfortunately, at that time, tourism was paid very little atten
tion by successive administrations, and my attempts to obtain a scholarship to pur
sue studies in tourism were unsuccessful. When I was awarded a Canadian Aid
Bursary to pursue university studies at the University of the West Indies' Cave Hill
Campus in Barbados, my first reaction was to turn down the offer. However, I guess
good sense prevailed and I accepted the Bursary, obtained a BA (Hons) Degree in
Economics and History and returned to St. Vincent to work in the Public Service.
Continued on next page
Continued from previous page
I never lost my interest in tourism and continued my efforts to seek assistance to
pursue i- t :- .1;.t studies in this field. After many disappointments, I entered
the L ....-.i I rrey in 1977 to pursue post-graduate studies in Tourism
M nr.-mr-nt returning to St. Vincent in 1978, and later being appointed the coun
-I I Director of Tourism in 1981.
Amal: As former Director of Tourism, what is the greatest challenge you everfaced
on a daily basis? And if you had the post now, what changes would be made to
improve the situation?
Miss Brereton: The greatest 1.i 1 ... -. I. I,. 1i .... ent financial author
ities to understand what the: -i ..-. i .,1. I ....... I .. in the development,
management and marketing ( i i ....... i. i i i ,. .1 er financial commit
ment. If I held the post of Director of Tourism today, I would seek to impress the
need for a properly structured National Tourism Authority that is staffed by experi
enced and professionally trained personnel and properly financed.
Amal: What do you think is the biggest problem in the Southern Grenadines?
Miss Brereton: I believe that the most critical issues facing the yachting industry
in SVG today are the issues of visitor security, 1i-I-l;; -ri- n-;1 hb..r.. -.t and
user-friendly systems and procedures for clear..., I- ...... I ..I I .ters.
,*4st Lovw c oupsur
message at one of
Amal: What group or body is there to address the requirements of the sailing indus-
try in the Southern Grenadines?
Miss Brereton: Before the end of my second stint as Director of Tourism, I estab
lished a Marine Tourism Task Force [in 2002] which had begun to look at the vari
ous issues affecting the yachting industry in SVG.
Amal: What is the greatest achievement being experienced from tourism in the
Miss Brereton: It is, perhaps, a more sustainable form of income generation and an
improved standard of living, including housing, roads, electricity, water and education.
The Interviews: Edwin Snagg, Director of Grenadines Affairs
Amal: This interview is geared towards tourism issues in the Southern Grenadines.
Mr. ... -.1 11. '.. a lot going on in the Southern Grenadines!
Amo I i 1 i get involved in Southern Grenadines affairs?
Mr. Snagg: Well, as a person growing up in the Grenadines, I always wanted to give
service back to the public. It's not easy, with ups and downs, and many times I have
to question myself to push forward.
Amal: How have the Southern Grenadines benefited from your management?
Mr. Snagg: The Southern Grenadines have benefited through improvement in
social services, environmental areas such as garbage-disposal sites, a transform
tion of the Clifton Harbour waterfront, and a secondary school on Union Island
which was reconstructed with dormitories to house teachers and students from
Mayreau and Canouan who cannot otherwise get a place to stay. In general, the
Grenadines are part of the political and social landscape of this country.
Amal: What is being done to control yacht harassment in the Southern Grenadines?
Mr. Snagg: Well, let me say that the level of police work has stepped up; there are
now- ... .... i at the Tobago Cays Marine Park and a new vessel for
patrol .- I .I -.I process. There are committee boards and a tourist
bureau where information can be obtained. Also, the tour guides and tourist board
Si Ii, i ..i 1 i irassment in the Southern Grenadines.
i 1 to deal with the abandoned marina project atAshton,
Union Island, which can pose a threat to the environment?
Mr. Snagg: The mangroves have been destroyed, but the abandoned marina does not
really pose any hazard. There's a hole opened up [in the causeway] for the water to flow
in and out. There are talks in the pipeline on ways to put the site to good use. In doing
this, it will be able to provide service, but we must stick to the environmental laws.
Amal: Are there any plans for youths in the Southern Grenadines to attend programs
to gain knowledge in the marine industry?
Mr. Snagg: There is training done by various ministries alongside the Ministry of
Tourism. 11 . I.,,, I, -- i- ... 1 I are the YES Program (Youth Empowerment
Scheme) .,, I ii I,,,,-I, I I I .I, the tourist board and Customs.
There are also various non governmental groups involved in protecting the
Grenadines, such as MEDO (Mayreau Environmental Development Organisation),
the 4H Club, the Union Island Ecological Group, the Archaeological Group and the
Sustainable Grenadines Project. The Sustainable Grenadines Project is co-ordinat
ing programs between the countries of St. Vincent & the Grenadines and Grenada,
to study eco-tourism in the Grenadines as a whole. I would like to say that the Union
Island Tourist Board is doing a great job with environmental concerns.
The Southern Grenadines have the potential to transform the country's tourism
product. It's like a hub. There is development of Canouan airport to become a jet
port soon, and also a beautification programme for the island. There are talks about
having a marina on Canouan. I think the Grenadines on the whole will be blooming
in the next ten years.
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t Daily dives at 9.30 am and 1.30 pm or individually
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S Scuba and Snorkel Gear Rental
PADI Courses from Beginner to Instructor
& 15 Specialties in English & Deutsch
Rendezvous Service for Sailors at Hillsborough,
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Special Group Prices for Sailors
TYRREL BAY YACHT HAULOUT
New environmentally friendly haulout
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Fuel Dock, Water
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Welcomes you to
A stepping stone as you
cruise through St. Vincent, Grenada and the Grenadines.
Come alongside our splendid jetty and replenish your
supplies of FUEL, OIL, WATER and ICE
at the cheapest prices in the Grenadines.
Call sign: "Golf Sierra" VHF channel 16
For further information call Glenn Clement or
Reynold Belmar. Tel/Fax: (473) 443-9110
S1 ...... i ribbean islands with a favorable tide will make your
S i i ... I i ... ... i i .l [e. The table below, courtesy Don Street, author of
SI lI I i i..... J lolaire charts, which shows the tine of the meridian
.. m i 1 Iinle moon for this and next month, will help you calculate the tides.
1 I I 1 generally tries to run toward the moon. Th I .......
the east soon after moonrise, continues to run east until about .. II I ..
reaches its zenith (see TIME below) and then runs we I i....1 I II ......
Ili.l I Il I il 1 nadir, the tide runs eastward; i I I II I
.l II I h I I. II, 11 runswestwarc T ., .I .. .. local.
II .... ........ tide is3 or4 II w andfull moons.
For more information, see 'Tides and Currents" on the back of all Imray Iolaire charts.
I CA IBBEN M RITIE HITOR
In the workshop in the bottom flat of his stately two-storied wooden house on the wes
bank of the Pomeroon River in Guyana, Neilson Gomes gives his immaculately-main
trained 1968 Chrysler 35-horsepower outboard engine yet another wipe-down.
Beside it, an equally seldom-heard, approximately 50-horsepower Force engine, c
1960s vintage, stands ready to purr into life at the touch of a button. Outside, moore,
to his small jetty on the other side of the river, facing the "Capital of Pomeroon", th
town of Charity, is his 30-year-old lovingly-cared-for aluminum speedboat, Pearl
Mist. It is powered, the retiree points out proudly, by a 20-horsepower Chrysler.
One of Gomes' retirement hobbies is now preser--n1 1 r- 1i-n-r classic and olh
outboards. But he was once a boatbuilder in an . .. i i building sturd
wooden craft that carried cargo and passengers throughout the Eastern Caribbeal
and even farther afield.
He started in the 1970s. But there were several skilled shipwrights in the area ion
before that. As he told me, one was Joe Stoll, whose yard built large two-maste,
Neilson Gomes Reflects on Chang
schooners from the 1940s to 1960s, such as the Timothy H and the Anna Marie.
Other craftsmen were from the Gonsalves and the Van Slutyman families, while the
April and Fiedtkou families at Supenaam still operate major yards.
These schooners, like those built in the Grenadines, were basically modeled on
working fishing schooners of the northeastern United States and Canada. The two
masted vessels plied between Barbados, British Guiana and the Eastern Caribbean
islands, carrying rice, fruits and vegetables, wallaba poles and other cargo. Some of
the larger schooners also carried passengers, Gomes related.
By the time Gomes got into the trade, economic realities had taken the wind out
of the sails of the "schooner trade". Steel-hulled freighters were bought in Europe.
They could c- *'' .r' faster, and on a dependable schedule. The use of large
ocean-going i . i. in the islands has been on steady decline since then.
The majority of boats from the Gomes family business have been for the home
market. A helpful, considerate man, Gomes built mainly smaller craft in the 40-foot
range on average and all of them were "engine boats" for coastal trading and fishing.
Th- 1 .-.t he built was a 44-footer.
I i all Pomeroon boatbuilders, he used the brown-and-yellow silver balli wood
for plankin. i- .. I .li. .1 .... ...... ..1. I i frames of mora and other types of
wood. The .. i .. I . II I I I- t the time, builders could easily get
. I i i .. I i ... i ... . ... fact that silver balli is virtually free
SI I .. ... I works beautifully with saws and planes, the long planks would run the
whole length of the hull. This would make for a stronger boat. Some of the larger boats
built, for example, by April and his sons, use more greenheart now for the planking.
Gomes, like most other boatbuilders in the area, never referred to blueprints, unless
.' ,, 1 them by a client who wanted specific features in the design. Everything was
i ar and sight". First the keel was laid on blocks under the nearby mango trees.
"Then you set the middle rib, the bow rib and the stem bow. When you got them
up, you place the ribbands (long lengths of flexible wood) on the inside and bends
on the outside to get the shape," says Gomes as we watch his son Royston and a
helper working on repairs to a 30-foot fishing boat. It is basically the same method
S. 1 ..I 1 .1.. .. 1., i1.. . .I i r i ... i Caribbean.
I I. 1 ...... I i I I II .1 I i Ii ii1 I'omeroon, reckons Gomes. W while
:. I .1 .- 1,,11- .. I -i ... 1,. Ii, -1 1 I Itis still cheaper to build in wood
and, with good maintenance, the boats could last quite long enough for the owners to
make money from them. It is true that using fiberglass and resin is kinder to the forests
but they are oil-based products so still have to come from a non-renewable source, which
is oil. The fiberglass and resin would also have to be imported, Gomes reminds you. "I'm
not against it (use of more modem materials). In fact I use some epoxy -... .1 .
along with resorcinol, but we have to watch costs and pass them on to .
Basically, the hull shapes of coastal and riverain boats in South America's only
English-speaking country have changed little over the years. The smaller runabouts
are relatively narrow, reflect
ing their origins in the
A Amerindian canoe. The
hulls reflect European ,,,Ih,
as aence, including Dutch. Mainly
round bottom hulls are made
now, but Guyanese ship
I.lI- .iso make "hard
S .1. is, flat sides and
flat bottoms meeting at an
edge called the chine), even in
which once carried fruits and
vegetables between St.
Vincent and Barbados.
ey Norman Faria Local design variations occur
tosuit 1---n mi-ha
Hence, I I I
outboard engines meant
changes to the sten section
Above: Guyanese boatbuilder Neilson Gomes is where engines are placed. The
also a proud collector of classic outboard engines stems became wider and had
to be better reinforced to take
Left: Wooden vessels are still built and repaired additional stress.
on the banks of the Pomeroon River Boatbuilding cultural
n.;.. ..fl1-nced by every
day economics are readily apparent in the wider I I I I II 1 -" (water taxis)
on the many rivers in the former British colony. More passengers on a trip means
more money, though there are slightly higher fuel costs.
Before boat building, Neilson was a civil servant. He was also the representative in
the Pomeroon area for Central Garage in Georgetown which imported (what else?)
Chrysler outboards from the US.
Why did that brand stop selling in Guyana? After all, they had a good reputation
in the US, where the first practical outboard was developed (by Norwegian American
Ole Evinrude) in 1909. Today, almost every outboard in Guyana is a Yamaha or a
Mariner, which is also made by Yamaha.
Gomes explains: "At that time, Yamaha and other Asian outboard manufacturers
were making a cheaper brand. I believe they had branches in Latin America.
Chrysler was also bought in the early 1990s by Mercury Outboards. Fishermen in
Guyana, as elsewhere, may have tended to stay away from a highpriced engine."
Strangely, despite the lower fuel and maintenance costs in the long run, not too
many inboard diesel engines are used in small working boats in Guyana. F i
40-footers maybe seen to be powered by r i. ,i .i r i i e... i i
there should be a choice. Outboards, with 1 ....... .. I.. I .. I I- I I I to use
kerosene and the new biofuels, need not be expensive to run. There is also a Chinese
made diesel powered outboard available in Guyana and, Gomes believes, Brazil.
What of the future of boat building and the marine trades in Guyana? Gomes is
optimistic. With the country's large coastal and riverain areas, he sees a need for
river transport. As Guyana's economy continues to improve, better fuel efficient and
lower maintenance materials and power systems will undoubtedly become available.
He pointed to the aluminum and fiberglass "powerboats" already using ethanol and
other environment-friendly fuels.
Traditional Guyanese wooden boat-builders could also get some orders from wood
en boat aficionados in North America and Europe if their products are properly mar
keted. A schooner was ordered by an American and built a few hundred metres
across the river from Gomes's home about five years ago.
Picking a few mangoes from his extensive fruit orchards (another hobby) for his vis
itor, he smiles and says the present and next generations will have to do what they
have to do. He feels he's done his little part and the future looks bright for everyone.
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Skybird's Final Caribbean Season
Our Last Venezuelan Cruise
by Mary Robinson
After years of Caribbean -r-i;in. it was time for
us to head back to th I i. i .. first, a last
.lkruise in Venezuela.
We headed from Isla Blanquilla down to Cayo
Herradura, off Isla I ,i,. . horseshoe of sandy
beaches. There are ... I,-i,,,. camps ashore: basic
shacks or shelters with hammocks hanging under a
simple roof while the wind blows through. They look
I I1 ,,, 1' i ,'.. with the situation, but nowadays not
.11 i ... i i g to the fishermen. Wealthy business
men come in fast powerboats from the mainland to
-ri; their families for a weekend "get-away-from-it
.1 i i fishermen are still in evidence, their beautiful
craft, cn2Trr n"' "r "iith .:ninre ;;il;-t th- V ;;; car
trying i i i I. I I I ..- i, , .. -1. .ear.
We were surprised that our papers were inspected
yet again here by the Guarda Costa.
In previous years we had continued further west to
the archipelagos of Los Roques and Las Aves. This
time, not wanting to have to fight our way back upwind
later, we abandoned the attractions of these remaining
offshore islands. Instead we stopped for an excellent
snorkel off Los Palanquinos, ... 1 ... 1, 1 .. 11
Playa Caldera on the north. -1 ', i i i,,.
The next day we made passage down to Isla
Chimana Segunda, which is only a short distance
from the mainland city of Puerto la Cruz. It is a beau
tiful anchorage with some more excellent snorkelling
and a --1 1-h restaurant ashore. There are a
series I ... I. i, .1 tables each in its own little stone
enclosure with a pretty thatched awning-roof over it.
There is a tendency of wind and tide to circulate here
-fine if you have the place to yourself but not so good
if the anchorage should be busy. We made sure that
we were not there over a weekend: local people love a
day out. The whole bay becomes crammed full of
boats, perhaps a couple of hundred or more, mostly
small or medium-sized powerboats. They raft up
together, music throbs. Small fast ferries bring yet
more crowds and the restaurant does a roaring trade.
Not until late Sunday night does peace return. Every
Monday morning a massive clean-up operation can be
observed on the beach and a 20-foot pirogue is piled
high taking rubbish away.
From Chimana Segunda we proceeded to Bahia
Redonda Marina in Puerto la Cruz. This year there
was plenty of space, largely due to the fact that the
fuel dock was closed and marine diesel more or less
unobtainable. Marina rates were very reasonable and
we were delighted to meet up with a number of local
people who had done some invaluable work on
Skybird a couple of years ago. Everyone was very wel
coming and greeted us like old friends. I was also able
to exchange the last of our American dollars to
Bolivars at an even more favourable rate than in
Porlamar, on Isla Margarita.
We always enjoy the dinghy trip from the marina
through the maze of waterways that make up the "El
Morro" complex. This takes us for a couple of miles
.. .... channels lined with marinas, and pretty little
:I .... i houses, all brightly painted with balconies
over the water; most having private ---rin f-. ilities.
There is also a five-star hotel and a ... From
the wat(. .- i,,.. ., pears to be peaceful and
relaxed, ,11 I ... I access. One is not aware of
the fact that all these places would be behind locked
security gates and armed guards if one were to
approach by road. We made our way to a quay where
we tied up and visited the well-stocked supermarket
our first chance to restock since Porlamar over a
After Puerto la Cruz we followed a suggestion from
an article under "Destinations" in Compass and decid
ed to visit El Oculto, "the Hidden Bay". As promised,
as we made our way there we saw more dolphins than
we had seen anywhere else in the Caribbean. The
On farewell cruise
Skybird anchored at
'a beautiful anchorage
with some excellent
a good beach
islands in the area are steep and beautiful with many
anchorages and with amazing, colourful rock forma
tions. There was little evidence of human activity
beyond a few fishing camps. As the weather was quiet,
there was no breeze to alleviate the effect of the sun's
rays. But for the heat we would liked to have spent
longer and to have stayed to explore. However, we had
decided to check out of Venezuela before Easter, and
so hastened our way back to Porlamar.
This wasn't a particularly good idea because we
found that the Venezuelans regard the entire week
prior to Easter as a holiday period. The "booze" area of
the supermarket was unbelievably busy; there was
certainly no evidence of poverty amongst the milling
crowds of shoppers many of whom were dressed in
party gear. However, our final alcoholic buy in was at
last successfully completed, boxed, transported back
to the dock and eventually stowed on board. The fuel
and water boats filled our tanks with minimum cost
and minimum fuss. On Good Friday we motor-sailed
upwind to the tiny islands of Los i -.
Much to our surprise, even the I i..i beaches of
Los Testigos had taken on the Easter Holiday mood.
There were campers ashore on the beach. Powerboats
from the mainland and overladen local pirogues
dashed about here and there with much good
humour, laughter, music and noise.
This year we planned an east-bound transatlantic
back to the UK and had arranged to pick up two extra
crewmembers in Antigua in early June. So, we would
need to make our way north. In past years, leaving
Venezuela, we had bashed our way eastward, motor
sailing against wind and current from Los Testigos
once to Grenada, once to Trinidad. We hadn't enjoyed
it either time! This time, leaving Venezuela, we were
determined to sail.
The forecast promised winds just south of east, so
we were optimistic. The autopilot had been .1 ;
well that we had given up worrying about I i, i
clearance to Martinique but had decided that we
would head away trom Los Testigos Breakthrough
Bay close-hauled. Anywhere in the Caribbean chain
that we could point would become our destination.
But equatorial current still kept its influence and the
wind was not as helpful as we hoped. And the autopi
lot wasn't going to let us off so easily; it finally failed
completely just after midnight on our second night
out. After that we were hand steering, and found our
. 1 ... .. 1 1. ... So we were a weary
."1 I .. i ...I ... I:loupe, 52 hours out
of Los -.. 1 i we have plenty of time in hand
to prel .. I i', i, .... atlantic!
After sale : JEANNEAU
Agent & agreed technician for :
Lecomble & shmitt hydraulic JE^ E^u
1se *. l0 ** e -* H arou
by Bill Shum
August 8th, 2007, was a day that started with a
wreck and ended with a wreck, but in the nicest pos
Sailing southwest from Isla de Margarita, Venezuela,
we had stopped at Isla Cubagua to dive on the wreck
of the car ferry that has been lying against the rocks
for some 30 years. It's a salutary warning to all boats,
with its charred and rusted bow section starkly rising
from the waters.
There - .. ..... quite different about wrecks
that are :, .11 ,, i, .11 ut of the water, the ragged bro
ken bones rusting away in the harsh sun. The ever
present pelicans guard their perches. Quite different
from the pristine white pelicans of my home, these
prehistoric- ....... 1 .. 1 .. drab and dusty looking.
Beautiful ii. '..i. i ..i I. perched still, with all
their odd angles it's hard not to tell if they are actual
ly part of the wreck.
But below the waterline, a bejewelled landscape of
colour and texture. Barnacle-clustered, weed-shroud
ed, -- H r.- i-- in -ld winch housing becomes home
to l ..... I , -i, and through a rusted, encrust
ed porthole you can see the world within. Remains of
vehicles now home to teeming life. Shafts of light and
shadow playing tricks with your senses. -
overhanging walls of rusty --1 TT -- bI I 1111
silver jacks twist and swirl; - . I.- -ircle, waiting.
(As a newbie diver I must confess to an inability to
identify most of the hordes of fish around the wreck!)
The morning brought a fresh wind and we sailed out
westward for Isla Tortuga under a new mainsail.
Carrying just enough speed for me to let out the line, I
was soon rewarded with a nice little dorado. As I swung
it aboard it slipped off the hook and started slithering
and slapping, down the steps into the :i.;, : oop.
Momentarily I flashed on the possibility ci -I and
barbs as I had never actually handled one of these fish
before. But hunger and pride took over. I leapt after it,
pinning it to the step and getting my fingers into its
gills. Someone had put me onto the idea o' .;n.1 nim
to pacify fish and it works with the usual 1. .. of
rum. I have a small water bottle, half full of rum, with a
hole in the cap. A short squirt down the gills and off she
goes, a short squirt for me and I am ready to clean it.
Continued on next page
~nas f A-2 ~ -'r--.r
Above: The author,
happy and relaxed at
the end of just another
Left: Who you calling'
fishface? Pretty soon,
one ofus is gonna
am nia, ai
*The intst adiwnced design on Curagan
* Flo.iing Ji.I, cli irirrLoId in Holland.
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* Mrina sutf monitor VHF radio chanral 67 and c a ailable
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Continued from previous page
In fact our routine has become quite polished, when
the reel screams off, the skipper throttles back or luffs
up. While the reel is being wound in, someone gets the
big bucket ready. It's two by three feet, and two feet
deep. If I ever catch a fish bigger than this I'm going to
be in trouble. (My back-up plan is to try and get it into
the dinghy!) Then we apply the rum and straightaway
I cut it up and clean everything off.
Meanwhile, the line is back out and we are under
I, Ii's t- 1-n. h-.ul to wind in 80 to 100
:.. I I... 1 ,11 I are underway and with
a fish fighting, but I have found that with any less line
out I haven't had any luck.
During the day the wind dropped and we motor
sailed, cruising at seven or eight knots and collecting
two larger dorados and one small tuna. Sashimi tuna
and dorado, with wasabe, soy and ginger, served less
than an hour after catching the fish, is one of our
Mid-afternoon and I had just finished cleaning up
after another dorado. Three of us were just standing in
the cockpit looking around. Suddenly a massive shape
rose up beside us. Not 20 feet from the yacht a huge
whale, at least 30 feet long, launched itself out of the
water, seemed to hang in the air, turned its i.1 1. 1
belly to us and crashed back. Then disapI i
grabbed cameras and raced to the bow
but .. ii. ...... 'aters showed any
sign I ,.. I .. .. i The three of us
were totally stunned, my legs were shak
ing. I think if the others hadn't seen it
too, I might have doubted my own sens
es. Truly a once-in-a-lifetime opportuni
ty, and clearly just showing itself to us.
I'd like to think it was saying "Hello"!
An hour or so later we were joined by
a pod of dolphins. These were only six
feet or so long and a mottled brown
colour. They bumped and jostled with
each other, just inches clear of the
bows. We lay on the trampoline and
watched them. The water was so clear
we could see them dive deep, deep down
then come spearing up and out of the
water. A small baby was keeping up
with its mother, shadowing her every
move with a telepathic accuracy. When
she came out of the water to breathe,
the little one would actually "get air",
leaping right out of the water. I don't
aw! I ta co~e L'A f ii if
Cur fo " "
DdIl flOD I, e U S dlQr Europa
0:1i 1 .P r ., a
-j S -_ ^&0
I'llS ~ll :.4 a a BB ~ S a S
know if he was just funning with us
or if he needed the extra height to
match his mother's next dive.
After an hour or sc 11 i
of us and swam off.
to wonder if anything else could pos
sibly happen in one day.
We were almost at Isla Tortuga.
The island is so low-lying it is hard
to see until you are almost on it.
Suddenly the skipper shut down the
motors and veered to starboard, just
-niin- -nd of a fisherman's net.
I .. one end with the usual
stick-and-rag flag, but his end had
only a chunk of Styrofoam with no
more than an inch showing above
the water. Fortunately the skipper's
quick reactions saved us getting tan
At last we rounded the point and
into the bay. The wreck of an old
catamaran high on the rocks provide
ed the most efficient warning you
could want. We gave the point the
respect it warranted (especially as
the GPS was not 100-percent accu
Above: Somerset Cat, a 47foot Leopard catamaran
Left: Below the water, the car ferry wreck at Isla
Cubagua becomes a bejeweled landscape of color
rate) and sailed into the pristine waters. A more
intense blue than anything I'd seen, the hulls of the
other boats appeared blue-coloured, even the under
side of light planes flying over us picked up the colour.
The effect is heightened by the contrasting blindingly
white stretch of sand that circles the bay.
We dropped anchor and reflected.
Given the number of days aboard when the only
surprise is what I can find to cook, this had been an
Bill Shum is an Australian traveller, currently
aboard his brother Michael's 47foot Leopard catama
ran, Somerset Cat, cruising the Caribbean before
heading through the Panama Canal and westward
bound. See more stories from his travels at www.trav
IT'S MUCH MORE
THAN A MARINA: IT'S HOME!
Over and over again our guests refer to our marina as their "Home"!
Join us this summer and continue to enjoy the hospitality.
S24 hour security
120 concrete slip berths
SElectricity: 220V/ 50amp; 110V/300amps
(single phase and three phase)
Fuel dock and bunkering
SFree satellite TV at each slip
SWireless internet, banks and laundry within the complex
Pick-up and drop-off from major supermarkets
We monitor VHF channels 16 & 79A (alpha American system)
P.O. Box 4540, Airport Road, Sint Maarten, N.A., Caribbean
Tel: 599-5442309 Fax: 599-5443378
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Tel: 284 495-5500 Fax: 284 495-5706
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VHF Ch: 16
by Phil Chapman
-"r wife Yvonne and I aboard Chaser II, along with our friends Tony and Chris
,I )ard S/V Waylander, arrived in mainland Venezuela at the end of August.
first made landfall in Cumana, and spent a couple of nights in Marina
r;nn -t- '1 i .. .,- I. .. i ... .I was warm and inviting, as was our welcome
.... Iih -I .11 I II. .. II iih.. the marina to announce our intentions the
staff were then ,I,,,. I .- 11 -I,
After moorinl, "1 ,,i i I. Ih to introduce ourselves. The manager and
dockmaster were there, pleased to see us as if we were old friends. They lent us a plug
for the electric, gave us our bill for about US$6 for the night (which included elec
tricity and water), and a voucher for a free rum punch at any one of the local bars or
restaurants. This is a quaint but charming marina alongside a large modern shop
ping mall and cinema. Buses and taxis are available outside for those exploratory
trips around town. Cumla'- 1 .. 1; .1-1.--t
After two or three days, i .. ... .I 1 i ... I ,, to Puerto La Cruz (PLC), and
took a berth at TMO marina. As in Cumana, the marina staff were helpful and friendly.
Merida's cable-car ride was literally a HIGH light
In fact everyone, even in the crowded marinas, has been very pleasant. I won't
comment on the politics of the country -I don't have any other experience of the
country or peoples' opinions. Nevertheless the people we have met from all walks of
life so far are happy to see us and give help or advice as necessary and we've had no
security problems. Unfortunately, these good marinas are situated alongside a bar
rio renowned for security problems. Even the local people won't travel this area on
foot after dark. Don't let this put you off coming here, though. There are plenty of
places to go and see, near and far.
Our first priority wE ..... I,,.i, something both we and the Waylanders
have been promising ... - .. .. Having purchased them, we wanted to
make good covers to protect them, so after a short taxi ride into town we searched for
a material shop. Back on board Yvonne got out the sewing machine and we all got
together designing and making the new covers. Three days later they were all fin
ished, a -; .t i;f-: i- .1 hievement.
After a 1 i .- I I I into the idea of backpacking somewhere inland. Yes,
organized tours are available from local tour operators, but we preferred the idea of
doing our own thing. Merida, a centuries-old town high in the Andes mountains, was
the place we decided to go. Friends had been there and told us of the cable car that
goes high up Pico Espejo, so we taxied back to downtown PLC to buy a bus ticket.
The following Wednesday we took a cab from the marina to the bus terminal, about
a 20-minute ride. We loaded our gear aboard the Merida bus and departed at mid
day. Its an 18-hour bus ride to Merida but it's a comfortable bus with air condi
tioning, WC, TV and plenty of leg room. The fare was the equivalent of nine pounds
each, but we had to either take our own food or buy it at a restaurant in one of the
stops on route. Yvonne took a sandwich in her handbag in case we got peckish, and
Tony and Chris took a rucksack in case they did. It's a long ride; we -n.;;. 1 i
a little sleep. We stopped a few times en route, either to change drive -. 11 ,11,,,
or grab a bite to eat or drink.
The bus arrived in Merida bus terminal about 8:00AM, so we grabbed a cab to our
posada, which we had previously booked for two nights via the internet. The driver
took us right to the guest-house door, so we unloaded our bags and checked in.
The posada had a lovely plant-lined entrance, really attractive. Our rooms were
upstairs opposite each other; not the .1. i luxury but we had en suite shower and
loo, TV, wardrobe and bed; a fan, toc I I1 our bags at reception and took a walk
outside for some breakfast.
Merida looked an impressive town so we were eager to do some exploring. After
breakfast we went back to our room, unpacked and had a short siesta before going
for a walk. That evening it rained hard so we decided to eat in the posada restaurant.
They had a good menu and the prices looked reasonable. Unfortunately the owners
tried to go upmarket by giving small portions in a highly decorated state, the steak
was tough, and they had no beer or spirits, not even rum. They did have a bottle of
red and one of white wine, so we had that. If anyone came in for a drink after that,
they would have to drink water. But we had a nice evening.
Continued on next page
Continued from previous page
Next day, we booked for the coming Sunday on the Teleferico 1 i ,. .1 ,,
highest cable car. There were many tour operators in town 11. .....
other attractions further inland as well. Chris had met some friends back in the mari-
na who told her that a visit to Los Llanos (the Savannahs) was very worthwhile, so we
also booked a four day trip to The Savannahs leaving Monday morning. The trip
included our transport (a new 4x4 Toyota Landcruiser), our driver and our guide for
the four days. It also included our accommodation for three nights and all meals and
drinks, as well as boat trips, safari trip and horse riding -but more on that next time.
We spent the intervening couple of days exploring Meri.l- =h- i-. around town
and checking out some local hand-made products. Tony ..... I i. .11 a dozen pots
of local strawberries and cream. He said they were delicious, so I tried a bucket too,
and he was right!
We went our separate ways to look at the shops. I knew Tony fancied a pair of real
leather cowboy boots, so I bought a cowboy hat I was sure he'd get back to our
rooms with new boots. We got back a little later than the Waylanders, but soon after
we got in Tony knocked on our door.
"Look at these!" he said, pulling up his jeans to show the quality of the leather. I
then donned my hat and told him how stupid he was buying cowboy boots just for
our coming horse-riding trip. When he looked round at me in my John Wayne som
A visit to the for kids only' zoo was an unexpected treat
brero he nearly fell off the balcony laughing. "Kids", we were called by the ladies. We
had bought ponchos as well!
We had asked the girl in the restaurant what the zoo was like in Merida. She said
it was okay, but really only for kids. We had a day to spare and we like kid stuff, so
we took a cab to the zoo and, after a pot of cream and strawberries, paid the 35
pence entrance fee. What a beautiful zoo it was -we were really surprised. The ani
mals were all in good condition. Yeah, I know they were caged, but we, and all the
children, could see them without the aid ol i ..I. i I telescopes. You could have
touched the lions, monkeys and jaguars .1 .. i .ave .. ..1. but there was
security there to stop you putting your hands in. We got tolk II .. or twice.
Like many places we've seen so far here in Venezuela, they're not out to rip you
off. I'm sure they coul- -h.r:- a lot more but then people couldn't afford to go, the
animals would then -..11 ... I the zoo would close. That is, I suppose, socialism,
which is blatantly advertised on walls and buildings everywhere: '"Socialism,
Patriotism or Death!"
We had only booked two nights in our posada. We now wanted to stay another two
.. 1.1 1 ..I .r landlady told us she was full, so we had to move on. There are plen
I 1 i i in Merida. We found one that looked attractive overlooking the park
and cable-car area to the mountains. They had rooms available, so we asked if we
could look over the rooms first. We chose the two rooms on the top floor -they had
the best view and hammocks on the balcony. The room was quite basic: no TV, no
fans, no wardrobe (we did have a shelf; Tony and Chris didn't). There was a bed, a
shower, WC, and a nice view. We can put up with that, we're backpackers now!
Next day we went for a ride in the cable car. Yvonne wasn't looking forward to this
one -she doesn't like heights at the best of times and she won't even go in a glass
lift i :1 i i 1 .11 P;;t Tony talked her round and shakily she boarded, provide
i... -.I i I i. I. i I Its the first time we had been on any substantial cable
car. It takes 30 people seated and t-;. tn.-li;; After the base station there are four
other stations to the top at over I ... i
We were lucky with the weather. The view was awesome, and once we got to
Station Three Yvonne managed to grab a view too and 1 ; .. I ,,i it, but it was
getting colder. After reaching the top we went outside I. .-. .. I . walk around.
I have never gotten so cold so quickly. Within ten minutes my hands were really
hurting, my hair was literally frozen, and it was surprising how breathless you
became at that altitude. Needless to say we didn't hang around too long out there. I
would have guessed the temperature to be minus 20. It was very ccccold!!
Sh 1 I I 11 I h11 .i .. . ii, I I i ,, I .cameinto view through
th i ,, i- i 11 .... .... 1 .1 11 1 11 i .' i ghts and really enjoyed
th( .I. IIh. .11 i. i... I I ...... I Station isam ajorstruc
ture and getting materials to each site must have been an enormous task.
So we all had a good day. Back in our rooms we peeled off our layers of clothing,
boots, etcetera, and chilled out for a while before going out for our evening meal.
Merida is a tourist area, so prices are correspondingly .i. .i ... ... other areas,
but for us Europeans it is still very reasonable. Most ci I.' I ... .-- .' Venezuelan,
but there are a lot of Europeans too.
Merida is a beautiful, comparatively wealthy, university town v- it 1 :~r;;r -b ;
tres good by any standard. The scenery is breathtaking and the i '
One evening a Venezuelan family came up to Yvonne and me. The daughter, maybe
12 or 13 years old, asked us very nervously in the best schoolgirl English she could
manage, if her mother could take a photo of her and her brother standing with us.
I think it was because we are -...i.1. a rarish sight for them, and comparatively
tall. Whatever the reason, that 1 1 .I the Venezuelan people we have met in the
outer areas, untouched by too many foreigners, just inquisitive, friendly and help
ful. The cynics may say check your pockets after, but it is no more necessary here
than in any other large town in the world.
Tomorrow we go to Los Llanos: the Savannahs. This area is completely the oppo
site of where we are now in Merida. Its 1 ;.: .I 1 flat, with many rivers and
canals which are now flooded as a result I 1. ... I rains, so the whole area is
wet underfoot, but it is hot.
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True to our decision to visit botanical gardens around the world, while in
Martinique we set off to see the Jardin de Balata.
We chose a wet day -not difficult in the rainy season -and hopped into a taxi
communal (TC) in the island's capital, Fort de France. The drivers and our fellow
passengers in Martinique always enquire after our destination and take great pleas
ure in telling us whether we're on the right bus or not. If we are on the right bus
they make it their personal quest to tell us when we have arrived at our destina
tion. Or, if we are on the wrong TC, they accompany us to the right one and intro
duce us to the driver. This means, of course, that the driver and all the passengers
are involved from the start of any journey.
The TC is a cheap transport system which stands alongside the normal bus sys
tem but is more f- .-h1 'ne of the differences between the two is that the TC
waits until it is : II I i .. -. anywhere and will detour while on the way for an
extra charge. The buses seem to leave at regular intervals and are a little cheaper.
We were dropped off at the Jardin de Balata just as the heavens opened yet again.
The first thing we saw as we approached the entrance was a vegetarian restaurant,
a wonderful sight, it being lunch time. However, it was shut, exceptionally, because
they had no water!
The garden took our breath away from the moment we stepped onto the premises.
It is around ten acres with zigzag paths winding through it. At any time we could
look into the near distance and see a different view but never more than about 15
feet of pathway so that we were always enclosed in a tropical paradise.
The palm grove contains around 25 different species of palm tree and there are
three large lily ponds, .11 .11 I -,..- .. I ntaining fish and frog spawn. Large
unblinking frogs sat o. 1 i, ... . I i.1
The :.1- ---as created 25 years ago from land on the
S\ side ol ... Many of the existing trees have been pre
served, and provide height and much-needed shade.
n^S Fabulous tropical flowers, often looking as if carved from
wax and usually red, sat alongside the biggest Busy Lizzies
we've ever seen.
In all there are around 180 named plants and trees and
This doesn't count a single bamboo, none of which was
numbered or included in the sheet handed to us on entry.
The sheet listed the botanical name, the family, the ori
gin and the common name. We were given the English
After an hour and a half the pathway directed us back to the start of the walk. We
had been guided around the garden by small boards with arrows at any point where
the route might have been in doubt. Meanwhile there was an alternative route for
cruise-line visitors who v'-r- fi-'n the 20-minute taste of a garden. They could go
back to the ship 'win? I. I .. everything" after a quick stop f-r th- .r-1-;
then lunch, then ,'1 -1. I then a rum distillery and a Ti Punch .. ......... 1,I
before a night sail to the next island.
The biggest treat was yet to come as we got to the exit. Plastic bottles, decorated
around the bottom edge with false red hibiscus, were suspended from the roof cov
ering the terrace. The centre of each flower looked like the top of a pepper pot and
from these little holes hummingbirds and enterprising yellow-chested bananaquits
could ... i1 ... ... .. I .,- mixture placed there at regular intervals during the
day. E i ....... i I i......mingbirds, some with long straight beaks and some
with curved beaks, flew around our heads desperate to get at the nectar. We were
treated to flashes of iridescent purple, green and pink as these busy little birds hov
ered for a moment, popped their beaks into the holes, then flew away to a nearby
tree only to fly back again moments later.
Th- -i--i-i;.;- ;;-- -f th ir-1 -1--,?i i -.-mory to last a lifetime, especially as
S.. .. i i I . ............ I I ,,,,, and all five are to be seen at Balata.
There are several botanical gardens on Martinique so the next day we thought we
would try to visit L'Habitation Anse Latouche. Again Martinique displayed its tropical
weather with constant, and torrential, rain. As usual, because we were anchored at
Pointe du Bout, we crossed over to Fort de France by ferry. We hopped onto a TC and,
eventually, departed for the northwest side of the island.
Unusually, a fellow tourist was travelling on the same bus. We are very familiar with the
buses being used by the locals while the tourists usually confine themselves to organised
tours in air-conditioned transport Our travelling companion, this time, was a Frenchman
whose father was Lebanese-Armenian and mother Italian. He told us he had been born in
Egypt and, when life got difficult for non-Muslims under Nasser, the family had gone to
Lebanon before moving to Paris at the onset of the Lebanese War. This rather elderly gen
tleman, who couldn't remember how many languages he spoke, was having a weeks
1r-1. f-f-r- f-i 1-- t- P-ri. t- r-in-- looking after his wife who, tragically, was in
S. i , i .,, 1 .1 I .... I I ... -. ;disease.
.11 1 1 -I ... .... .I -. . t views and pouring rain we were dropped off
in what felt like the middle of nowhere, but we saw a sign for th- C'.;;;;in Museum.
Gauguin spent some months in Martinique before travelling to I, . I. .... I the muse
um documented his life, especially the times he spent on the island, with pictures, copies
ii 1 ..... i l i iii ,i. i- were the only visitors and were g. I i i
i, i. .... .. ... .... I her two young children and a y-,l i .
a most pleasant hbir fnllnmin the life and times of Gauguin, 1. . orary
exhibition of the *" I ..... Carnival, which included -1, ,. ., i I ., ,. cos
tumes and a film. Eventually, the curator returned and gave us a detailed description of
the various exhibits.
When we emerged from the museum it was still raining and the curator had trouble
believing we were on foot. We eventually found L'Habitation Anse Latouche about a mile
away. By now it was 2:00PM and the garden did not have a restaurant. The woman at
the ticket desk directed us to a nearby restaurant down the road.
We were welcomed by the patron's wife into a restaurant at the side of an hotel,
and seated on a terrace looking out onto a garden containing calabash and mango
trees and a huge jasmine bush. Still it rained but we were under a roofed area in
comfortable chairs with exotic flowers on each table. We decided it was time for a
bottle of wine after the chef had been consulted about what he could produce for
vegetarians who, as well as not eating meat, didn't even eat fish.
Hummingbirds whizzed over our heads, then flew through the inner dining room
and out at the other side, having made a detour over the head of the waitress, to get
at a feeder hanging from a tree at the back of the building.
By the time we'd had coffee it was nearly four o'clock and still raining. We thought
we'd have a look at the garden up the road anyway, which wouldn't close until 5:00PM.
We arrived at a very shut establishment and decided that the staff must have sat
there all day with no visitors and we couldn't blame them for deciding to close early.
So we found a bus stop, waited for half an hour for a TC and retraced our journey to
Fort de France.
SHIPCH MAN DL E
- -! .. ..
1u rue F. rrwsr ecpfge Poi it Si4on 97200 Folr re Frrnce MARTINIQUE FWI I6I. +8N 516 7036B9 2L- 9ou--.OuL
When we met Jesse in the marina parking lot at
6:00AM it seemed quite early; the orange-winged
parrots were still squawking loudly as they depart
ed their nighttime roost to go wherever it is they go
for the day. The nighttime air was just starting to
warm up. As we drove out of Chaguaramas and
into the hills of Petit Valley it was clear that many
had started their day hours ago. Six AM is not too
early to start a day of hiking.
Jesse James runs a tour and taxi service called
Members Only Maxi Taxi, which provides regular
shopping trips to the market, grocery and large
hardware stores, as well as custom
tours for hiking and evening trips into
Port of Spain to listen to music. Jesse is
a great ambassador for his county and
was awarded with the Seven Seas
r'ri n. Association "Camaraderie
,I i n 2001 and the Seven Seas
"South Bound II Award" in 2005.
Jesse says the Rincon Falls hike is an
"eight" on a scale of one to ten, with one
being the easiest. We all have our own
.1.. ... .ivel
SI .... I II of
rating, I can say we had a great day. You
do need to be prepared for a few hours of
hiking, a bit of steep terrain and whatev
er weather the day brings. The youngest
hiker in our group, an 11 year-old, was
consistently in the front of the line, hop
ping logs and ducking vines. Lunch,
v .i .. i 11 ,,i .. i .I ;are
e -... 1 .1I
We met our guide, "Snake" (his real
name is Laurence), at the start of the
trail. As we got ourselves together I saw
Snake and his assistant unload a few
ropes and a lifejacket from the trunk of
his car. Snake gave us a safety talk and
we were off down the road. We passed a
few houses and active gardens. Snake
stopped now and again to point out
plants of interest and tell us their medical
and practical uses. We all tried a plant
that tasted a bit like spinach. I enjoyed
the botanical lessons. At this point some
one remarked about our good fortune to
have an early start and to beat the heat.
The trail followed the contour of the hill
side; it was an old path that was used for
transporting coffee and cocoa to market
in the town of St. Joseph in the days
when it was the capital of the country of
Trinidad & Tobago. We stopped at a field
that was planted with pumpkin and
cucumber. The cucumbers had been
picked but a few were missed, and Snake
used his cutlass (machete) to peel cucum
bers and give us each a slice. He then
tossed us each a mango as a dessert for
our snack. After about two hours of hik
ing we reached Black Waterfall. We took a
half-hour break for a swim. A few of us (okay, only
Jesse and I) climbed up about ten feet in the chute
of the waterfall and slid down into the water. It was
a refreshing break.
Another hour or so and many "nature-food
breaks" got us to the edge of Rincon Falls. Snake
rigged a hand-line so we had something to grip as
we walked down a slippery, mu-l- T11 11]- i 11ll
arrived safely at a pool fed by a *" .1 1 .11
The falls stepped down the cliff in small shimmering
ribbons and pooled c.- 1 1: -.nd continued down
ward traversing the i lunched and swam
for an hour. Snake rigged another safety
rope in the deep pool just in case someone
needed help. Snake had obviously spent a
lot of time on his safety plan.
Seemingly out of nowhere Snake pro
duced a red-tailed boa. I admit I am a fan
of snakes, especially boas and pythons.
We are too big for them to eat and we pres
ent no threat to them. Several of us
enjoyed handling this gentle forest
Our natural trail snacks included
mamey apples, known as apricots in some
of the other Caribbean islands. We
stopped at a breadfruit tree and Snake
showed us that you can make a slash in
the tree and the layer beneath the bark
will weep a milky substance. If you let that
milky gum sit there for a few days you can
return and scrape the gum and have your
self a nice wad of chewing gum. It has no
taste, but a good consistency. It is best
not to take it out of your mouth and look
at the color of the gum -it is an unappe
tizing shade of gray. The color of chewing
gum is overrated!
After a bit of I I ,,i,,ii i..i ,e hit
a dirt road and - i i -I 1 .....- In a
deep stream Snake got busy on a project.
He was vigorously rubbing a palm fruit on
a rock. A blob of yellow slime was growing
and he reached up and started shampooing
his hair with the yellow stuff. I admit that I
am terminally curious and besides I felt
that Snake would be disappointed if no one
took him up on his offer of a shampoo. I
wet my hair and offered up my head for
anointing with the yellow goop. I lathered
and rinsed and after a few more rinses my
hair was clean and soft. In fact, I think
even now, a few days later, it is a bit softer.
We got back to the van and changed out
of our wet clothing and headed directly to
Maracas Beach for a meal of "shark and
bake". It was a great day.
The falls stepped down the cliff in small
shimmering ribbons and pooled on ledges
and continued downward...
Yacht at Rest, M ind at Ease PortEverglades
* La Rochelle
I 0* ,, :
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DYT USA DYT Newport R.I. DYT Representative Martinique WORLD CLASS YACHT LOGISTICS
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Class of '06'
Reunites in Grenada
by Jack Foard
Jack Foard reports: If you read my article "Luper6n, The Rest of the Story" in the
June issue of Compass, you may remember that one of the best things about spend
ing the hurricane season in Luper6n, Dominican Republic, was getting to know 60 or
70 other kindred spirits and bumping into one or two of them in nearly every anchor
age you visit as you sail down-island the for rest of your days at sea. One of the worst
things about . .- i..... i w as -. ... ... , .. .........
Famous Po .- .. i ii .. 1 boats i ... i .. .-
cruise into Prickly Bay, Grenada, this summer but over the next six weeks a good
dozen of our old Luper6n buddies dropped their hooks along the southern coast of
Grenada. Desire and I were getting ready to move on but after chatting with a few
classmates we decided to organize a "class reunion" dinner party at our favorite
restaurant, BB's Crabback Caribbean Restaurant, located on th- r'.r-;.- in St.
George's. "BB", Brian Benjamin, has won the Afro-Caribbean ( i, i .. I and
holds regular cooking classes and demonstrations for cruisers. He's not only a great
chef, but a heck of an entertainer.
Brian put together a five-course feast: avocado salad with guava puree; calalloo
and okra soup; two appetizers lambi sizzler (the best conch in the universe and
I've got his top secret recipe!) and salt-cod fritters; fresh pan-seared snapper with
Calypso Sauce; and the grand finale, bananas flambe with vanilla ice cream.
I had asked Bruce Van Sant, the infamous sailor and author of the book that got
most us safely down the "thorny path", to send a note of some sort to be read at the
celebration. Bruce and his dear wife Rosa live in Luper6n so he knows most of our
class. Bruce outdid himself and e-mailed the following proclamation that I read dur
ing dinner to the delight of all.
Greetings to Luperon Alumni, Grenada Chapter.
Famous Potatoes, Valedictorian of the Class of '06, included your foundation in his
Due to his fine efforts the College Grounds Crew has finally repaired the end stage
of the town dinghy dock, but this year's freshman class has already begun to bash its
windward side. Good news however: the class has many talented marine engineers
who have drawn up plans on the tables at Steve's Place and Puerto Blanco Marina
(PBM) in the dust and condensation.
The Alumni 7Teasurer notes that the customary Class Grant has gone missing from
the '06 account. Fortunately, Grenada currently hosts our Dockmaster and
Harbormaster Emeriti, Katana and Seacomber.
An ad hoc committee of the Alumni Board formed at PBM to address this situation,
and unanimously approved a motion to allow our two resident Emeriti to collect the
debt from Grenada Chapter members in the form of beer.*
Eagerly awaiting your participation in our On-Campus Alumni Reunion in '08,
(Bruce Van Sant)
Receta, Magus, Imagine, Molasses, Katana, Bendeci6n, Durban Dancer and Famous
Potatoes where all there. We told stories about our adventures and mishaps and found
out that one of the class had an excused absence. Daniel on Esperanza hit a whale off
the north coast of Dominica and his poor old boat was just about to go under when a
French helicopter pulled him out of the sea. Much to his delight he received a phone
call from Domirn 11. ...... I i. .. lat the Dominican Navy had found Esperanza
and saved her. -1. .- ... I ......... (I later caught up with Daniel and heard the
entire tale. I posted his story on my website, web.mac.com/famouspotatoes2.)
Chef Brian Benjamin with the author at the class reunion'
It was a lovely evening, chatting with old Luper6n friends, devouring a delightful
Caribbean feast, and enjoying lots of laughter.
I wonder where the Class of '06 will be next hurricane season? Bruce has called
for our second reunion to be back "on campus" in Luper6n, but as Bruce might say,
"I wonder who shall show up".
If you read "The Book" (The Gentleman's Guide to Passages South) you may
remember Bruce's use of beeronomy.
They're Back Street's Videos on DVD
Sailing videos made by Don Street in the 1980s are now back on the market as DVDs.
"Transatlantic with Street" details a transatlantic passage from Ireland to Antigua
via the Cape Verdes: 2 hours.
"Antigua Week" is the story of lolaire's round-the-buoy-racing swan song, celebrat-
ing her 80th birthday: 1 hour
"Street on Knots" demonstrates the essential knots every sailor should know: I hour
All DVDs are available via Armchair Sailor and Bluewater Books.
2nd Edition, Grenada to Vlrgins Guide
The second edition of Jacques Patuelli s cruising Guide to the Lesser Antilles,
Grenada to the Virgin Islands, is now available. For a number of years Jacques
Patuelli s Les Petites Antilles Croisiere et Tourisme has been regarded as the stan-
dard guide for French-speaking yachtsmen in the Caribbean. This popular book
covering the Caribbean from Grenada and Barbados to the Virgin Islands is a trans-
lation from Jacques Patuelli's original French version by Stephen Davies and Elaine
Morgan. The book is fully illustrated with photographs from ground level and the air,
plus detailed charts. Each island is dealt with in detail and pilotage notes are fol-
lowed by tourist information and the usual data on formalities and facilities.
Available form bookstores and chandleries or from www.imray com.
New Eco-Frendly, Mercuy Free Foat Switches
Rule, part of the ITT Marine & Leisure Group, have developed a completely new
range of mercury-free float switches. The new models also offer many other design
j /g3 ~ -~ -`a r lo p
enhancements creating "next generation" standards for performance and ease of
use. Unlike traditional designs, none of the electrical elements are connected to the
float, therefore protecting them from water ingress and stress faults from continuous
movement. Instead, when the float is raised by bilge water, it turns a shaft that acti-
vates a "snap action" switch inside the main housing of the float switch.
Overall, the new units benefit from the best of Rule's submersible pump technology
with long life seals, top mounted waterproof grommet protection for wiring and
"blocked" wiring connectors, all of which prevent corrosion and water wicking.
The switches now have a detachable mounting base to make them easier to
locate and install.
All models have been tested up to 1 million cycles ensuring reliability, and the
range will operate pumps drawing up to either 14 or 20 amps.
For more information visit www.rule-industries.com.
Jonbuoy to the Rescuel
The latest addition to the Jonbuoy inflatable range of products, which are exclusive
to Ocean Safety, is the innovative Jonbuoy Inflatable Rescue Sling. The inflatable
sling is a natural development from the more traditional lifesling; combined with a
throw sock it is quick and easy to use in a man-overboard situation.
Compact and lightweight, the sling packs neatly into either a tube container,
which can be mounted onto the pushpit or rail, or into a soft sock, which is easily
stowed in a locker or vehicle.
The sling is deployed by attaching the securing clip to a strong point and then remov-
ing the sling pouch from the container or sock. The pouch containing the sling can
then be thrown towards the casualty. He or she can then place their head and arms
into the already inflated sling and be gently recovered back on board or ashore. If
the casualty is injured, it is easy to winch them back on board using the sling.
Once fired, the Jonbuoy Sling is easy to re-arm and repack. The Jonbuoy Inflatable
Rescue Sling has a buoyancy of 175N with a 30-metre 8mm safety line. The system
has a manual override and a top-up inflation tube.
For more information visit www oceansafety com.
New LED Ughts from Hella
Maintaining night vision onboard is critical for safe navigation. Hella Marine's
EuroLED Touch Lamp makes it easy to switch between red and white light, and fea-
tures the latest in touch-sensitive switching and dimming technology, Simply touch
the red pad for red light and the white one for white light. Holding a finger on the
pad for more than two seconds causes the lamp to cycle through four dimming
levels. Lifting the finger selects the desired light intensity. The lamp always turns on
at the previously set color level, even if there's a power interruption. EuroLED Touch
lamps can also be operated remotely with off-the-shelf On/Off/On momentary
switches. Pre-wired with 2.5m of cable, the EuroLED Touch Lamp is available with a
black or white shroud and measures 129.5mm W x 29.5mm H.
Hella's new LED Interior Lamps are well-suited for the chart table, as navigation and
berth lighting, and as adjustable reading lamps. According to the manufacturers,
with a current draw of less than 2W, the white or red LEDs provide outstanding light
output with high energy efficiency. Featuring Hella Marine Multivolt technology, the
lamp provides consistent illumination and circuit protection across a range of inputs
from 9-31V DC. It is conveniently pre-wired. With no filaments to break, the lights are
shock and vibration resistant, and the light's surface is cool and safe to touch.
For more information visit www.hellamarine.com.
No hurricanes 270sq. miles of calm seas Full amenities
Phone: (58-281) 267-7412 Fax: (58-281) 2677-810 VHF Channel 71 Web page:
http://bahiaredonda.com.ve E-Mail: firstname.lastname@example.org
Your Marine Store at Venezuela and the Card
VENEZUELAN MARINE SERVICE, C.A.
SIMRAD --,,.-. ow
F:-^ 1 "e. .. Tn, S l |
Ir Raymarine car
Errr ETrama. HaR W 6JOTUN |
I P*ML ARL: AhlPr ain Pandi, Sedmr r CC Fulrefda, ,Ld t7A 9P, Tr: 281-36732
F %M1-25711.7 .: 25143 7.7 T E ht EI kbW 6 erti5 U samnu
a* & DE W AIAWk l kWi,T:4&29-2646: }$ Fax: 5-263.-29 l *414-7811.47, lwaa M
Ei sler a"e cma.mliwmueiaian f eMarina (Socn at Camse Maina at de beah)
Ahoy, Compass Readers! Whe. .i .... .. .... .- i ..idad, pick up your free
monthly copy of the Caribbean ** i locations (this month's
advertisers in bold), courtesy of our T&T distributor Boater's Enterprise:
Aikane/Catamaran Village .... .. .. Office .. .Ik
1. 11 I 1., i .i Complex
Institute of Marine Affairs The Bight
Barrow Sails Irena Tours/Members Only The Lure Bar
Boaters Shop Island Homes Minimart The Upholstery Shop
Budget Marine Joe's Pizza Tropical Marine
Calypso Canvas Kiss Energy TTSA
Si i... Lazzar & Sampson TTYC
Lennox Stewart Wheel House Pub
Caribbean Propeller LP Marine William H Scott
CDA office Marc One YSATT
S . ... I orks
Convenient Car Rental
Coral Cove Marina
HI Lo Supermarket
IMS Yacht Services
Peake Yacht Services
Rick's Dive Shop
Ships Carpenter/Internet Cafe
Sweet Water Marina
T&T Hospitality & Tourism Inst.
* El Morro Tourist Complex i Puerto La Cruz i Venezuela
Lat. 10 12' 24"N Long. 64 40' 5'W
1 I 1 ,
Your Caribbean Marine Flea Market
New & Second-Hand Chandlery
Charts Sails Book Exchange etc...
Close to Marina Bas-du-Fort Pointe a Pitre
Open 6 days a week except Sundays
Phone : + 590 (0) 590 831 775
E.mail : email@example.com
Contact : Anke
Dutch English French German spoken
Day Skipper &
Shore Based Courses
over 8 Days in Bequia
Starts Monday 3rd Dec 2007
until 14th April 2008
John Cawsey, Yachtmaster, Instructor
Write John c/o Jean Webb
PO Box 30, Port Elizabeth, Bequia
or phone(784) 457-3623
or text 0780 781 3123
with your phone number
UNIQUE IN DOMINICA
S THE CITY OF ROSEAU
i i Capitalnene Tel +7672752851
i l! VHF 16 Working CH 19
www dominicamannecenter corn
* Dinghy Bar
* Fuel (Marine Diesel) / Water at the dock
* Nearby laundry service
* Secured moorings
* Night security
SIce & Provisioning (Grocery store)
* Clean restrooms and showers
* Garbage disposal
* Telephone & internet WIFI connection
* Yacht chandlery agents of Budget Marine
& soon Mercury Marine
* Light boat repair and cleaning
* Activity desk (Tours, diving and water sport activities)
* Visa / Master Card accepted
PT-9900-144 HORTA / FAIAL
TEL +351 292 391616
FAX +351 292 391656
Providing all vital
Services & Repairs
for Trans-Atlantic Yachts
Electronics, Chandlery, Rigging
Bunkered Fuel (+10,0001t)
EU-VAT (15%) Importation
Continued from previous page
...center for people from all over the world who are
being prepared to volunteer in Africa. Apart from volun-
teer accommodation, there is also separate accommo-
dation for visitors, available at for US$25 per night or
US$50 with all meals included. The rooms have simple
but comfortable layouts of two beds, a desk and room
for storage. Accommodation must be booked
The area around the Academy contains miles of
beautiful vegetation-covered mountains as far as the
eye can see. A short walk down a hill will take you to
a calm beach. There are many hiking paths all
around the area that travel through the scenic "bush"
of St. Vincent. The Academy's Hiking Center offers
guided excursions to various places around the island.
You can visit two of the breathtaking waterfalls, or
even some of the filming locations of "Pirates of the
Caribbean". Guided hikes up La Soufriere volcano
are also available for those who enjoy exercise!
Overnight visitors coming by sea can anchor in
Chateaubelair or Cumberland Bay and be picked up
free of charge. Massage is also available in the newly
For more information about guided hikes or accom-
modation call (784) 492-4058 or visit www.richmond-
valeacademy, org and follow the "Hiking" link
Antigua Charter Yacht Show 2007
As of press time, the Antigua Yacht Show organizers
report that 80 yachts have already registered, along
with 178 charter brokers from 107 companies, 36 non-
exhibiting vendor companies and 12 press agencies.
The show opens on December 5th, and entries must
be received before November 15th to guarantee
inclusion in the official show catalogue. Arrival details
should be given at the time of registration in order to
be eligible for the all-day complimentary airport taxi
shuttles on December 4th, 5th and 6th.
Participants shipping brochures and other publicity
material should complete the form on the "Shipping"
page of the show's website (listed under "Show
Information"). This will allow organizers to track, clear
and distribute shipments on exhibitors' behalf. Shipments
should arrive in Antigua no later than November 20th.
Registration for the Chef's Competition opens on
November 1st, and the first 25 entries will be accept-
ed regardless of their size and type. More details of
the competition will be published on the show's web-
site in mid-November.
For more information visit
www. antiguayachtshow com or e-mail
Bequia Music Fest 2008 By the Beach!
The four-day 5th Annual Bequia Music Fest (January
24th 27th 2008) will include a great new location in
Lower Bay. The combined beachfront premises of the
popular De Reef restaurant and Dawn's Beach Bar will
be transformed into a unique entertainment and dining
venue for the Friday and Saturday night, ticket-only
events. A new, enlarged stage is being built, and closed-
circuit video will relay performances to a big screen
monitor situated in the dining area under the stars.
The Music Fest will kick off on the evening of Thursday
24th with a performance by the 13-piece Elite Steel
Orchestra from St. Vincent at the Frangipani Hotel. On
Friday night, the world-famous Mustique Blues Festival
comes to Bequia, with Dana Gillespie and her London
Blues Band joined by a superb line-up including Zach
Prather from Chicago, and last year's favourite Papa
George from the UK.
On Saturday 26th the evening will have both a local
and international flavour, starting with Bequia String
Band music, country music Bequia-style from the
Country Relatives, and reggae bands from St. Vincent
and Bequia. These acts will be joined by an All-Star
HOTEL RESTAURANT BAR
our Tfimous /arecue and
jufp ,ItI;,dts ,nsjls!
Tel: (784) 458-3255
band of Bequia-loving musicians from around the
world and many surprise guests to make an un-miss-
able Saturday night line-up, with Toby Armstrong & the
Mount Gay Blues Band from Barbados returning for
another show-stopping performance.
Sunday at De Reef in Lower Bay will be the ever pop-
ular Music Fest Jaz & Blues Jam and Mount Gay
Surprise Party on the Beach free for all, and the cli-
max to a great weekend of music. If you'd like to jam
with other musicians on Sunday afternoon, please
contact the organizers and they will try to fit you in!
Tickets for each night will be ECS50 in advance, or
ECS60 on the door. Special two-night tickets (Friday
and Saturday) will be just ECSS85. Tickets will be on
sale in Bequia from mid-December at the Bequia
Tourism Office, Lina's Delicatessen, or from Quikprint
in St. Vincent.
For more information visit
www.bequiatourism.com/bequiamusicfest or email
Training Ship to Explore Atlantic and Caribbean
The barque Picton Castle 2006 recipient of the
American Sail Training Association's award for Sail
Training Program of the Year will be setting out next
spring on an all-new, 12-month epic adventure
exploring the Atlantic Ocean.
The Picton Castle has already circled the globe four
times, delivering much-needed supplies to remote
island schools, conducting impromptu medical clinics,
trading with remote islands and introducing nearly
1,000 people to the challenges and rewards of sailing
a square-rigged ship.
The Atlantic voyage will present yet another once-in-
a-lifetime opportunity to experience living and work-
ing aboard a traditional wind ship, calling at nearly 20
nations on four continents. No previous sailing experi-
ence is needed to join the Picton Castle. Trainees
work alongside a professional crew of 14 who teach
them the ropes all 175 of them! plus a boatload
of other seafaring skills from sail making to splicing,
celestial navigation and small boat handling.
The voyage will set sail from Lunenberg, Nova Scotia
in May 2008, crossing the Atlantic for calls throughout
the United Kingdom, Denmark, Norway and
Germany. From there the Picton Castle will sail south
to ports in France, Spain, Gibraltar and on into the
Mediterranean. Morocco, Madeira, the Canary
Islands and Senegal will be the last ports of call
before setting out across the Southern Atlantic and
Equator to Fernando de Noronha, Brazil.
From there, ship and crew will wind their way through
the Caribbean stopping at Grenada, Anguilla,
Bequia, Carriacou, Dominica, Guadeloupe, Nevis,
Barbados and the British Virgin Islands before heading
home to Lunenburg in May of 2009.
For more information visit wwwpicton-caste. com or
call (902) 634-9984.
Fax: (784) 458-3824
by Bob Berlinghof
Dawn broke cool and hazy on an August day over Bellevue Island, in the little harbor port of Rancide. There
were only a dozen yachts at anchor; in the high season the numbers swelled to over one hundred. Tourism was a
relatively new thing here. There were no yachts until the late 1960s, but nowadays, in the high season from
Christmas to Easter, the two-road village overflowed with European families, American yuppies, English nannies,
Canadian secretaries, and French bare-breasted beauties, in numbers roughly in that order, thought Bruno.
Bruno Frankenheim, 63, sat in the cockpit of his 38-foot steel ketch, Never Mind drinking black coffee and smok
ing 1 I .t his twopack-a-day habit would inflict upon his lungs this day. Bruno always woke
at I . .. I i I ,, doing so for 35 years. His was the first yacht to take up residence in Rancide Bay, Basic Keelboat Jones Maritiine Co.
back in '72, when, fresh out of university, Bruno had found Aventure, a narrow 27-foot wooden sloop. Instead of Basic drCu ing CKldn. ml Croixe
architecture, Bruno chose a life of sailing, with plenty of rum, sun, and greasy engines in bucket-sized engine rooms. Barbot Charter U.S. Virgin Islands
In the decades after Bruno's arrival, other yachties with no ties to the outside world settled in Rancide Bay, part- e To eeB6
ly because of the natural beauty of the place, partly because ..... i i. 11.... i, ..tmoved, and partly due COai Pa i lakilg o 3 Fe 40-773-099
to the ambiance provided by the locals, who were usually la. 1 , I I . in a humble and com- Costal Navigation wwwoes em
fortable vegetative torpor.
He had sailed the Caribbean and the Pacific,
but in 1988 he returned to tiny Bellevue...
Of course this ..;..-- t ;;;-; tl,- immer season when there were no bucks to hustle, and it ignored
the occasional ..' I...... -1. I ....i such as broken-bottle fights, which could -, ,. ,i .1EI L <
from nowhere. The dominant activity among the local fishermen, cargo smugglers, and the -I, ....... m
played men seemed to be drinking rum, beer, or Guinness. This dovetailed nicely with many an ex-pat's daily life, sOaAL YACT
starting soon after breakfast "tea," or in Bruno's case, coffee. P D CA C EAN
But unlike those idlers, thought Bruno, I work for a living. He had never been rich and had paid for his floating G R PRO-C LLEANI
homes by hard physical labor and a skill for improvising repairs. After hitching a ride across the Atlantic, he had ODEP CEAN PROTECTION FORFBREGLA$
bought Aventure off the beach, where it had been holed by a tropical storm, for 500 US dollars. A year later he WMue ntc ObuurboataMfforashom 0
sold her for $9,000 and bought a bigger wreck. He repeated the process three times. WSFourdrS~lCrdpate~MdnebhrapOel
He had sailed the Caribbean and the Pacific, circumnavigating the globe, but in 1988 he returned to tiny wwammn
Bellevue, population 1,500, and garnered renown as a master seaman and mechanic. Everyone on the island, L o
from visitors with multi-million-dollar stinkpots to the poorest families with burnt out fan motors, took their prob- iTn L B
lems to Bruno, and he would patiently sort them out.
He toiled in a rented workshop behind Maggie's rum shop, six doors down from the Customs shed. He charged r L*n r
his clients on a sliding scale of what he thought they could afford, but never more than EC$60 per hour, unless' LJ ,
it was overtime and his clients were rude Americans or overbearing Europeans. After work he was a fixture at
Maggie's among the Old Guard, the ex-pats in residence on Bellevue for well over a decade. rZ r l A l-
Bruno crushed out his cig, took a sip of coffee, and sighed. Today will be different he thought Today he would give that This Is* t plaMc o IfMd # Ue o w mooEfthn h,
Hal Everton a piece of his mind. Hal had done the unthinkable; he had stolen Jeanette I ..... ...I.. six days. fncypoartfn dlsgrlfan, orllabI~ s itrvk I
It was only the latest of a series of breaches of etiquette, which, taken together, I ..... ...- than any hfSeyoui dmnyrSof
woman was to Bruno. Hal would pay for this latest, no -his final faux pas, thought Bruno. wwmsee
Bruno's love life was typically a mess. In '96, after he was well past 50, he had married beautiful, 19-year-old a M >
Bernice Quashie, a lithe, sable-skinned, big-bottomed local barmaid with beautiful teeth. Within three months she A L M R E I
had left him for a weight-lifting bartender in Fort Lauderdale. Bruno had been stupid enough to take her there on
vacation. Bernice bore the bartender twin boys, and Bruno slipped back into a life of fashioning homemade bush- on Artimer, Le Makn, artlnqu (FW)
ings, repairing self-steering worm gears, rebuilding transmissions, and hanging out at Maggie's. mflt +SWfs0)l.O -344-2
He was known to suck down rum-and-cokes and hold forth to the Old Guard as well as the local men who
ordered petits of strong rum, often joining them in their animated discussions of cricket. He had learned to shout m
over the din of the others when the subject came to the local fishing boat races. But today Bruno found his own
audience after leaving work at noon. Un
Bruno was a creative raconteur and would cast a spell over the sweet young things and visiting bareboaters'
wives who might wander int I. piece of shade and an icy libation.
Maggie's was an unlikely .-. I .-. but the summer heat drove people from Bay Street into the sickly
green four-walled block shack with a pool table and a single overhead fan. Out front there was a 20-foot striped
rectangular awning abutting the street, under which sat two wooden picnic tables with benches on either side. -
Inside, a rough pine bar overlooked three plastic tables and a dozen plastic armchairs.
Bruno loved a new audience for his tales of adventure and heroism on the high seas, particularly if the captive
audience was female. YAMAHA MARINE DISTRIBUTOR
"Did I ever tell you about the time I was stranded in the Tuamotus?"
"Only about ten times," said Jim Gossett, a charter skipper and 01 1 1.-l ;. YAMAHA
"I did? Well, it bears repeating, anyway..." Bruno would say, and ..i..... i benefit of two stout middle
aged women who sat at an adjacent table with their husbands.
"Then there was the time I was shipwrecked in the Bahamas. The local villagers salvaged what was left of my EN GIN ES
belongings and..." ENGINES
"Put you up in their homes," Gossett prompted t- .7i- Bruno. (DUTY FREE PRICES)
"If you don't like my stories then go drink at I.- I retorted Bruno. Musket's bar was a quarter mile down
the beach, known for its Jamaican rub-a-dub music and younger set. Hal Everton and his ilk hung out there,
even though Hal was on the wrong side of 40.
"We love your stories, Bruno. Like fine wine they just get better with age," said Gossett, winking at the ladies. SPA RES
Bruno went back to work and tried to forget about Gossetts rudeness. He changed the diodes of an alternator
and welded stanchions from a boat that had been hit in the night by a squall. By 4:30 he was back at Maggie's,
ready for his usual fix of four or five rum-and-cokes. SERV I
Not much was happening. A few locals watched an insipid rerun of Knight Rider on a set over the bar. About SERV IC
half of the Old Guard turned out i1 -l;; 11;; Mike and Nina from their 40-foot slo-y r'--- '" shaw, a retired
British Naval Officer; and Pete -.. I -. 1I alalloo. No one mentioned Hal's name ..I I .. to Bruno, since
everyone knew by now that Jeanette had defected to Bruno's rival.
Hal had also had the audacity to set up a competing workshop on his 45-foot catamaran six months ago. Bruno RI
had lent him his wheel-puller before realizing that Hal was taking customers from him. And to top it off, Hal had EQU IPM EN T
yet to bring it back! 'Q U I j N
Bruno, who never lent tools to anyone, had been tricked by Hal's earnest demeanor, his easy smile, calm brown
eyes, and chiseled, sunburned face. Hal reminded Bruno of himself 20 years ago, and Bruno had wondered if the Located CALLIAQUA, St Vincent
lad might want to work for him next season, when he would be swamped. Instead, Bruno had'- :' - 1 opposite Howard s Marine
Bruno walked unsteadily from Maggie's to a booth in town for a local repast of breadfruit a." I TEL: (784) 457 1806 FAX:(784) 456 1364
...... i 8:30. Hal Everton was lucky I didn't bump into him today, he thought. I would have TEL:(784) 1806 FAX.(784)4561364
,.,1, i ,,, i..,,..., E-mail: firstname.lastname@example.org
P.O. Box 17, Kingstown
To be continued in next month's Compass.
Y ARIES (21 Mar 20 Apr)
Try not to nit-pick the crew or you may have a mutiny
on your hands.
d TAURUS (21 Apr 21 May)
This month 1 1 1 Ii... l i1 1
crewnembers l I .I I I I I i
I GEMINI (22 May 21 Jun)
Let love sail you away and distract f.-.. -11 the
rough spct- In 1 -. 1..-I-1. I. I. I That
romantic I .11 I .. .. .. I1. next three.
CANCER 0 (22 Jun 23 Jul)
Your cabin-mates may find fault with all your ideas at
on your course and don't let yourself be
Q LEO (24 Jul 23 Aug)
Your course choices will meet with opposition and criti
cism starting in the second week. Everyone is picky, picky,
Tp VIRGO (24 Aug 23 Sep)
Devote the first half of the month to business matters
and try to finish up as many as possible before the 15th.
Then go sailing.
^ LIBRA (24 Sep 23 Oct)
Romance is in the air for you. There will be rough cur
rents in the second week but you will sail through them
TL SCORPIO (24 Oct 22 Nov)
You will have lots of support from crew and loved ones.
Communications will flow freely and lead to creative inspi
SSAGITTARIUS (23 Nov 21 Dec)
.. i.rs .-. -- be
i, IIIII o.. be
SCAPRICORN (22 Dec 20 Jan)
S. nance and not let your
SAQUARIUS (21 Jan 19 Feb)
I l I Il I l a fair breeze to keep your
PISCES (20 Feb 20 Mar)
While business is in the doldrums you will get important
suggestions from unexpected sources.
ACROSS 37) COAST 13) HOG
1) BEAR 38) ROE 16) DEVIL
3) CATGUT 39) FRET 18) ADDER
6) CAP 41) PUT 19) GREEN
9) MOUSE 43) BAT 21) GROW
12) WORTHY 44) WOLVES 22) PORT
14) LION 45) GATE 26) SLUG
15) SEA 46) AB 27) LAWS
16) DOG 28) WATER
17) HARE DOWN 31) HORSE
20) EAGLE 1) BEANS 32) CRAFT
23) VANG 2) ROOM 33) COD
24) BOARD 4) APE 34) BORNE
23) LEGS 5) GULL 36) CROW
26) SWALLOW 6) CAT 40) EGG
29) AT 7) PAY 41) PIE
30) URCHIN 8) LOG 42) TEA
33) COW 10) STAR 43) BY
35) FROG 11) ROVERS
Micoya Mights Too
On the ferry
the humid night
of a midnight passage.
like angels' kisses
on my cheek.
on the hurricane deck
where couples gyrate
while all around
the violent, violet
for destinations unknown.
TURTLES IN LOVE
My name is D
I'm a turtle in the living sea
I was in love with T
The girl was such a beauty
The first time I saw her there was a spark
I knew love was bound to start
I introduced myself to her
She said, nice to meet you sir
She was a perfect lady
So she got to be my baby
I could see the love in her eyes
As she stared into mine
We spent time together
For me there was no other
But humans came and caught her
She screamed good-bye and tried to smile
They carried her ashore
But she was killed before...
They killed her for whatever reason
And it wasn't turtle season
COanBas Cnuisiznf Cjasu
Subscribe to the
Caribbean Compass On-line!
1) 15 Across : deck sander
3) 15 Across laces or thread
6) Black 15 Across 5 Down
9) To seize the hook of a block with small line
12) 15 Across : fitted for the ---
14) 15 Across : large mammal .11. II,
15) Topic of this puzzle
16) fish: small shark
17) 15 Across : large, shell-less marine mollusk
20) Erne, or white-tailed 15 Across
23) Line to hold boom or gaff in place
24) Eastern 15 Across : East Coast of USA
23) 15 Across : power to walk the deck of a
26) 15 Across : certain coastal tern species
29) "All _sea": confused, as a ship that
has lost its bearings
30) 15 Across : spiny rock clinger
33) 15 Across : dugong
35) 15 Across : female pike
37) Where the sea meets the shore
38) Fish eggs
41) _to 15 Across: embark on a voyage
43) 15 Across : a type of starfish
44) 15 Across : pirates
45) When two ships are thrown together by a wave
they are said to be in a 15 Across
46) Able-bodied 15 Across-man (abbr..)
1) 15 Across : small lateen-rigged Spanish boats
2) 15 Across : space to maneuver a boat
4) Muscular deck crew
5) 15 Across : common marine bird
6) 15 Across : octopus
7) Let out, as line
8) Ship's journal
10) fish: five-or ten-legged 15 Across creature
11) 15 Across : privateers
13) 15 Across : porpoise
16) fish: eagle ray
18) 15 Across : fifteen-spined stickleback fish
19) The evening flash is this color
21) Become larger
22) What "men and ships rot" in
26) Snail with no shell
28) 15 Across is salty
31) 15 Across : the male of this species carries
33) Commonly salted fish
34) Suffix meaning carried by
36) 's nest: observation platform
40) 15 Across : white sea urchin
41) 15 Across : oyster catcher
42) British tars drink this at 4 o'clock?
43) Full and all sails drawing
on a close hauled course)
Solution on page 36
"Ok,-Ready? Let's jibe the kite."
"Ok,Ready? Let's jibe the kite."
I CRUISINGKIDS'CTR I *El
by Lee Kessell
Fish and other creatures that live under the sea communicate just like you and
me. You think I'm making it up? Then let me show you how it works in my favourite
sandy bay on the northern coast of my pretty island of St. Lucia. I know all the
inhabitants of the bay personally and I often visit them. Sometimes I snorkel on the
surface and watch my friends at work and at play, but when I want to communi
cate, then I put on my scuba gear and my friends know I'm there. Mums and dads
show me their new babies, the gold spotted eel twines about my arm, the sea stars
wave their arms in greeting and the big purple
anemone waves her tentacles, asking me to hurry
over for a chat. I can spend a whole morning or after
noon visiting friends all over the bay, because I know
where the jaw fish hang out in the sandy rubble,
where to find the glassy sweepers under the ledge,
where to look for the sea horses clinging to the sea
grass oh, just everything!
Now one day, not so long ago, Mistress Angelfish
saw that her little girl, Queenie, wasn't so well.
Queenie's bright blue stripes running across her body
and outlining her delicate fins were just a dull grayish
blue and her black eyes weren't as bright as they
should be. So Mistress Angelfish stopped a passing
damselfish to fetch a cleaner shrimp. Every fish on the
reef knows that cleaner shrimps and small cleaner
fish are just about the best doctors around. They pick
away nasty parasites from scales, clean away dead
tissue and when they say: "Open wide, please" they go
right into the open mouth and clean tongues and
teeth. Mistress Angelfish naturally thought that this
would do the trick. But it didn't. Queenie perked up
for an hour or so but then she hung her head and
refused to eat her supper.
Queenie's mother started to worry and it wasn't
long before the whole bay knew about baby Queenie.
How did they know? Damsel fish had told everyone I- bl
she met on the way to Mr. Cleaner Shrimp that
Queenie wasn't too well and everyone she told then
passed the news on to others. This is almost instant post without having the both
er and expense of going to the post office for stamps. Of course the inhabitants of
the bay lived together as a well-organized community like all marine communities
but not only that, the bay inhabitants cared about each other and were always ready
to help in times of need. So friends and neighbours gathered around Mistress
Angelfish, looked at Queenie and offered all sorts of advice. Some of the visitors even
brought gifts of the most delicate and tempting foods they could find; pale green sea
grapes ripened to perfection, young and tender sea lettuce, delicate bites of Swiss
cheese alga, but Queenie wouldn't touch any of it. Mistress Angelfish put Queenie
to bed and sat by her side all night.
The next morning as soon as the sun came up over the far side of the hills
behind the bay, Mistress Angelfish decided she needed a specialist doctor and the
only way t I 1.:... ;.. 1.....y was to send for the airmail express. Word spread
quicklyto 1 I i. 1.-.i .. their .1 i. .. 11. i Ii. iand in no time
atall theywere off. .1 ... i.. .... -....I i 11 . 11 -.i .-torpedoes, the
flying fish opened I. 'I.. .... and FLEW. Oh you should have seen them
that morning, they dazzled the eye with the sun sparkling in rainbow diamonds on
their sleek bodies. In only a matter of minutes, the :1 ,. I, i, i i .
the next bay and were telling the Doctor Fish all at i ..... .11 1 ii
r.1. 1. 1 .. .. ... 1 he hospital atthe reef tha' .I i ,,,.,
1 ... ... ... i i- The Black Doctor Fish was the specialist in internal med
icine and he quickly selected the medicines required and followed the flying fish to
the home of Mistress Angelfish. Of course Doctor Fish couldn't fly, so the flying fish
had to be cont ..I .i. ........... at the speed of the rather slow physician. It was
n't often that .... .. i.-1. .. I to make house calls, so Black Doctor Fish was
rather breathless by the time he reached the bay.
The doctor quickly diagnosed Queenie's trouble, and although she was a sick
.111 .... 11'.. I .- a few days, the big dose of medicine he gave her and the sea pearl
:.1 I' I. ... ly he left with Mistress Angelfish soon had her up and about. You
can imagine that all the neighbours invited the important medical fish for refresh
ments, so he was well rested and fed by the time he turned back for the hospital.
I don't know about you, but I'd be very happy if my postal service were as quick
and efficient as this. E mail can be almost instantaneous, but it can't get you a doc
tor in a hurry or can it?
I-e f V d ^, HoD Does it make a difference that sea ice is formed from sea water, not fresh?
How salty is sea ice?
When sea water begins to freeze, the water forms small ice crystals like needles,
ea called frazil. The salt in the sea water does not freeze. Instead, it stays in
0 droplets of water called brine which are trapped between the ice crystals.
SEventually, the brine droplets will drain out, so what is left behind is mostly fresh
water ice on extra salty water.
Do you know what salinity is? It is how you measure how much salt is in a
liquid. High salinity means there is a lot of salt, low salinity means that there is
not much. So we can say that the salinity of sea ice is low and the salinity of the
surrounding water is high.
The frazil ice collects in sheets on the surface and continues to freeze through
winter. When warmer temperatures come in spring and summer, the sea ice
starts to melt. In the southern oceans, the sea ice can float northwards and melt
O Y S DP S C R completely but Arctic sheet ice is surrounded by land and tends to be thicker
S fL DP Q than Antarctic sea ice so it usually melts mostly around the edges.
So, for those of us who live in the Caribbean, why does it matter that the
sea ice is melting faster than before? There are several reasons.
Changes in salinity are very important to the world's climate and envi
ronment. In the Arctic, the dense salt water around the sea ice sinks and forms
part of the global "conveyor belt" of currents around the world. If this belt stops,
our weather will change, probably for the worse.
Iby Elaine Ollivierre When the sea ice melts, it opens up vast areas of dark ocean which
SE absorb more heat from the sun and make the earth hotter.
Animals which live in the snowy Arctic will have less land to live on.
Crop production will be affected. Crops that require a spell of freezing
Did you try the melting ice experiment from last month? If you did, you temperatures (like winter wheat) will not grow, and more heat will dry up valu
I will know that the water level in the container does not change when the ice abi ... ..i.. .i i ..
melts. Now apply this observation to ice at the North Pole and, in the same way, 1%ORD PIZZLE
when sea ice melts, it will not cause sea levels to rise around the world. A rise in By replacing one letter at a time, how many steps does it take to change the
sea levels will happen if land-based glaciers and ice sheets melt, not sea ice. word POLE to the word HEAT?
LAnswer on page 18
--- ------------ --------------
by Tina Dreffin
We were anchored aboard Scud, our 44-foot St. Francis catamaran, in turquoise
waters clear as air in St. John, the US "'^r. 1'1n l -1 nhnboard were my husband,
Peter, and our two young sons: Adam -, I ..... age 8. The boys' merry
prattle had a lilt and cadence to which I listened with pleasure, as they completed
afternoon school lessons. They were happy to have finally reached the Virgin Islands
after our eventful passage down the "thorny path". Breathing in the pure ocean
breeze that was scented with fr.; ;i-.n. I took in the stunning view of bay waters
against a backdrop of island .1 1.11 I with languid melancholy.
I was brought out of my quiet reverie, when an odd percussion ol I .....
boat emanated from the bow. Curious, I sauntered on deck. The boy I I i
sensing something up with their faithful antennae. Together we peered over the
side, but nothing seemed
amiss. The eerie sound came
again. This time we ran forward
to peer over the bow -no,
shouted ..... animatedly,
and then added, "Look!" He
pointed towards the waters
where a slight ripple vibrated
across the surface, then disap
peared as fast as it had come.
"There!" screamed Adam. He
S. .stabbed his forefinger into the
-.. depths of the sea, farther down
0" along the hull.
S A dark shape lingered in
shadow beneath the hulls, then
raced underneath, silent as a
torpedo and just as fast. We
rushed astern. The boys cho
used, "Daddy!" He tossed aside
-- his tools below-decks, then
S ambled into the cockpit with his
S usual calm, confident
~- demeanor. The boys were
-- .. revving into overdrive: A blurry
wave of arms and legs surged
The dolphin darted between us, stopping from bow to stern, then back
to pause two feet in front of the boys' ;.n P-1-i; -ir Belgian barge
S.- i i .1 i I was going
bananas from the tease of the mermaid in the waters below. The heightened cacoph
ony of the boys' squeals together with 11i. 1. steria was comical.
All at once, the dark shape shot out i ii. i drove for the heavens, then slid
back down the clouds, and somersaulted into a back flip, re-entering the waters at
the exact spot it had exited. A hushed silence fell over the boat. A bottlenose dol
phin! She streamlined to the bow, rubbed her back along our anchor rode, circled
the boat, then repeated her massage on the bow -over and over again. We stared
wide-eyed, mouths ajar, as we scurried across the deck, following her hypnotic
sashaying around the boat.
Quicll -- .- 1 1 I r masks and fins to slither into the waters, careful not to
alarm I li ii.... I I taking the plunge, Peter and I eyed the children: big white
saucers blinked back at us from behind masks like twin headlights. The hot sum
mer breeze was heavy with their unspoken words of eager anticipation, nerves
-I .I,. like taut violin strings. In the waters, Adam hung close to Peter's side;
... nearly upon my back.
We hung back out of respect for the wild mammal, giving her ample room. With
waters clear as cellophane, details were sharp on her shiny skin: a slight scar ran
across the dorsal fin, and inconspicuous barnacle scrapes stretched along her
We followed the dolphin's movements. She frolicked on the periphery of our small
family group, dipping and rising to the surface, never really going anywhere. She
emitted a single-toned squeal to convey alarm -or possibly excitement? The click
that projected from the "melon" on her forehead, located in front of the blowhole,
acted as a sonar beam, bouncing off Scud's hulls to guide her away. This sonar
beam enables dolphins to avoid collision in their herd when swimming fast: up to
25 mph. Typically, we see dolphins travel in small pods of five to ten animals, yet an
immense school of up to 1,000 when we've crossed oceans.
In the shallow waters, the dolphin darted between us, stopping to pause two feet
in front of the boys, barrel-rolling across the sandy bottom. If she swam too far into
the glassy void, the boys back-pedaled to the safety of Mom and Dad. Sensing a dis
appearing audience, the dolphin turned back to tease them out again. For two hours
she played cat and mouse. Her finale touched all our hearts: she swam up to the
boys so close that out of sheer fright, Warren propelled himself out, willing to walk
on water. The dolphin did likewise, breaking the surface like a rocket bent on speed
alongside him, I, 1, I I I ,,, i,. too he heavens. In the late afternoon light,
her glistening f. .. I ... tiny frame.
Over the next few days, the dolphin returned to our boat for her daily massage on
the anchor rode. We never ci. I i..... There she came from, or why she seemed
so tame. We named her Nil. I 11, I.111 nick in her back, possibly from a close
encounter with an angry shark.
We have long considered the presence of dolphins that cruised alongside our bows
as a good omen and a promise of fair weather. Many classical writers have described
how dolphins were once harnessed to chariots to help maidens in distress. We con
sidered Niki our lucky talisman, .. I I .. i,, ... .... I ,, g cruise down the exot
ic island chain of the Caribbean, I .. i ... .. iI .. adventure that proba
bly no one back home would believe. At least this time, we had the photo to prove it!
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Guy Dean was a genuine Caribbean
character. I met him the day before he
hauled out Cocoa in Windward,
Carriacou, Grenada. Cocoa, a
Grenadines-built boat, needed repairs
and bottom paint, a couple of weeks.
Never mind that Cocoa was an aged Y
wooden boat. Guy and I were beginning
to be aged as well. by Jim Hutchinson
Lynn was back in Colorado doing
equestrian stuff that she loves. (I have watched my sister's equestrian work -sat
isfying stuff.) I never met Lynn. But she regularly sent Guy treasures crucial to his
survival- ,i;;it;. :.ti;h .1-1 -rti. t'- paints.
I visited 1' "' ... .. I I and he often visited Harvey Vale (Tyrrel Bay's
village). We became friends and talked much. And we hiked all over the island. Guy
was always looking for (and finding) artifacts of the island's previous inhabitants, both
indigenous and European. He was always, also, seeking and finding objects of special
qualities to be used in his art. Following him on goat trails (and less) through the bush
of Carriacou, I came to remark, "I know why Guy Dean is always beat up. He earns it."
Each time I visited Guy, he w ,.1 1 mn break and I would view his work, mostly
wood, rock, and shell, made .....Ii in color, amusing to study, innocent in
humor, always, he said, containing a joke no one else could find. Usually contain
ing one or more... call them trademarks. But color was what it was about, a color
that grew by layers, to become a depth.
Cocoa was two weeks from launch for a year or two. Then Guy's official status
became "shipwrecked". Meanwhile, he had been assimilating into the community, ,
where nightlife had music (largely acoustic string) n-. itr--n rum (king of which is i
Jack Iron). Guy played his guitar at the fringe, : 1 I..I f the local musicians, 'n'Y
whose music he admired. Respect is the currency of the West Indies. If you show
respect, then, good or bad, rich or poor, it doesn't matter who you are. And when the
food comes out in the West Indies, everybody eats. Same with the rum.
I come from an artistic family. Mom entered shows and won prizes. She worked in an
art store and took home what she sold to see how it worked. '- .i i... .ii i. Dur
own art form: big brother is an actor, little brother's art is as I 'i'I ... i i ... .I..i as
Guy's, and little sister is one with her horses. I am the writer, one of Pop's art forms.
Guy and I .. 1 1 .... i ......11 1 .l1 .... 1.11 lien Ivisited Guy, anda
bunchof I. -I .. ... I .. .i i ., ...'... i. ..i hthewasagoodartist.
"Don'tcall ... ...,, ., i .. i i ..... 1 1.. i manyofhis signs on a
number of Grenadine islands -they are art The name on Ambia's transom is his work.
Guy didn't refuse to do it the way I wanted, he simply did it his way it's beautiful.
Guy began to paint wooden rum bar 1- . ...... 1. .... covering them with
his cartoons. "Is Gary Larson not an, i I i
The Grenadine Islands, though part of the countries to which they belong
(Grenada and St. Vincent & the Grenadines [SVG]), are islands of their own. Their
culture is West Indian (which is, itself, a mix), but a different kind of West Indian,
seafarers, not farmers. The Grenadines have their own ways, each island has its
ways, portions of the islands have their ways. The line i.. ...i. ihe center of the
Grenadines is a political boundary. The people and office .1- I I. Grenadines live
with and around it.
Continued on next page
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Continued from previous page
Guy's limit for being shipwrecked on Carriacou came at about four years. Cocoa
was now way beyond two weeks from launching. And Guy had no means (nor
inclination) to buy a ticket to the US. So, with what he could carry, Guy was
put on a boat to neighboring Union Island, SVG. The "proper" procedure would
have been to return him to his "home" country, just as the developed world
I :,E ,+ ., .1 .
returns West Indians who have run afoul of their systems. Often, such people
belong only where they are. Guy's nationality was US. But he had come to
belong in the Grenadines.
Anyway, I found Gu-- li"in in the work area beyond the kitchen and dining area
at The Anchorage in I1 1 Union. He was painting signs that, as he put it, "tell
people like me to stay out." Over several visits I saw many signs with a variety of
messages come to full color.
Then Guy wasn't on Union. I found him on Mayreau, helping Mrs. Forde in
.---hrn.- f-r meals and a place to sleep. Guy and Lynn knew Mayreau well. Then
I. on Bequia. On Bequia, he migrated west to east, from Moonhole to
Lower Bay to Belmont to Spring to Park, leaving a trail of art along the way. He
wound up in a tent at the far end of Park Bay. It was a nice spot, on the beach, a
nice piece of grass, nearly end-of-the-road rural -the kind of place I could live if
I didn't have my boat. It was there that Guy added art for my articles to his
Officially, Guy had no status. Visitors in these parts are required to have out
bound transportation -a vessel or ticket. Guy now had neither. Nor did the offi
cials of SVG have official knowledge of his presence. Grenadine islanders have rel
atives on many islands which are separate countries, the people come and go. But
Guy's tent was near a boundary dispute, and officials were forced to notice him.
They did what they had to, put him in jail. He returned home to his tent after three
days when one of the parties in the dispute stepped in for him. The finest of the
pieces I had commissioned for my articles went to jail with him, missing its dead
line. A drawing from a previous article was rerun in its place. Thus, one of Guy
Dean's best went unpublished.
Eventually, they could no longer pretend not to notice. Guy was told to report to
S........ .i ... hil his passport and a ticket. Which he did. I went with him, and
S ... 11 Guy asked for an extension.
"You have been in my country illegally for a year and a quarter," the Immigration
officer said. "I don't see that two more weeks will 1. .i .. "
I said good-bye to Guy at the ferry when he 11 I I .... I ..,id for the US Once
That was years ago. Guy Dean recently died in St. Thomas waters. He is survived
by family and friends, and by Caribbean characters too numerous to mention.
artwork by the late Guy Dean: 'beautiful in color, amusing to study, innocent in humor'
.1 -i I' Ir u r .. j .. -J .L I- AJ ...l Ir, r u. r w-, k r. ,*l. 31 j ai F. 'y J 0I:
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MA lNA m, thl4 prltWnqurT
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BARBADOS GRENADA ST. VINCENT
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As the serious cruiser's center of gravity
ly shifts toward the Caribbeans "Deep -
Doyle has it covered in third editions of two of his pop
ular guides: Cruising Guide to Trinidad and Tobago,
plus Barbados and Guyana, and Cruising Guide to
Venezuela and Bonaire.
As with all Chris's guides, these recently released,
updated editions include charts and navigational infor
nation, details of marinas and services, tips on diving
Ind .-rl--.1 1... .t and the low down on shoreside
e,.1, I I .. I illustrated with color photos,
other features include sections on planning your cruise,
regulations, weather, communications and sightseeing.
Both guides are linked with www.doyleguides.com
which gives updates, allows readers to print out town
maps and all the GPS waypoints used in t 1 -li.
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Both books are available at chandleries and book
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" MUSTUUE- CRRICO
Under the Perfume Tree: Stories Weaving Patterns of Past Lives, edited by
Judy Stone, Macmillan Education, paperback, 317 pages, with glossary. ISBN 13:
This volume contains 12 Caribbean stories by different authors. Most are non
fiction and steeped in personal remembrance like a strong pot of tea. The quality of
writing varies from serviceable and sentimental to brilliantly evocative: overall a
very satisfying brew.
Two stories had special resonance for me, as their protagonists were great some
i,,.. ., .. of my wife and children. "Marooned by Pirates" tells the rather
: ii I i[ercules Hassell's arrival on Saba and his subsequent move to
Bequia, where his name was changed to Hazell. Dutchman Hercules Hassell may
indeed have arrived on Saba in the manner the author states, but, if so, he wasn't
the first Hazell on Bequia. Author
Peter Stone (a descendant from
Trinidad) sets this story at the
1 end of the 18th Century, but he
didn't know at the time of writing
that tax records show that a
Richard Hazell had lived on
Bequia before 1776; Mr. Stone
may have taken certain liberties
with the facts, but has written an
;t i-itnn ount of the hero
I ... I .. .I colonist.
The second Hazell story
("Emancipation School") is set in
Bequia in the early 19th Century
and taken from the autobiography
of John Hercules Hazell, a grand
son of the shipwright Hercules
Hazell. Contrary to local myth, the
Hazell family at the time was
struggling financially; 12 year old
John Hercules walked several
miles each dawn to teach the
Bible to slaves at Paget Farm. In
return he was allowed an educa
tion from his uncle, the school
master and church clerk.
His father was a sea captain.
t .i'. In% ;er, rf v r r Whdile in this service not a very
lucrative one my father would
be often [away] from home for months, and my mother, an industrous old soul, kept
house and brought up a large family, of whom I am the third son and fourth child as
best she could, by sending out to the villagers the commodities my father would from
time to time bring home from foreign ports... These "importatons" not being on a very
extensive scale r I. i r 1 .. I .. . r in the
managementof( ... . I I I I , I .. .... I I. ....... f rofthe
family be early trained to the system of selfsupport, there being no prospects of an
endowment fund being established in ourfamily.
The descriptions of Bequia at the time a: .. ..... i I ."'i
humour of JH. His first teacher was a very . I .... .., ; I
her nasal organ.... She taught us the Lord's Prayer and Ten Commandments in the
vulgar tongue, and the alphabet, and to write "BA ba" in large black letters, and
impressed each lesson upon thejuvenile mind, or rather back, with a three pronged
leather strp, which had grown black from age, but not rusty from want of use.
He later established a :.. 1 1 for adults. It must not, however, be supposed
that this sacrifice in time of thirteen was from philanthropy. I may, per
haps, be entitled to take creditfor a tinge of such feeling, but there were little contri
butions of fruit, eggs, and occasionally afowl, which served as a stimulus and incen
tie to teaching, and were found very useful as aids to housekeeping.
The account ends suddenly with 14 year ol 1 1 1... ... . and becoming so sea
sick that he ruled out a life like his father's, I .- I b ige to St. Thomas and
Barbados, he sought and obtained employment in the grocery and liquor store of
Alexander Glass, Esq, a Jewish Scotchman which lasted three years. (In an odd coinci
dence, this was a relative of Kelly Glass, St. Vincents cable TV founder and a natural
ized New Zealander.) John Hercules then worked for another Bajan Scottish merchant
until 1841, when I commenced my own career in business, at age 24. My only criticism
of this selection is that it ends far too soon. I have tried to lobby Macmillan to find out
where I could obtain the complete memoirs of John Hercules Hazell, to no avail.
"Protect Me" is the story of a bright eight yearold Muslim boy living in a small vil
lage in northern Trinidad in the late 19th century. Sanwar's struggle with poverty
and cultural identity are brought to life in this realistic and enlightening tale. "Dada"
is the story of Granny, Prince, and Dada, three generations of an African family after
Emancipation in rural Jamaica. Church, prayer, hard work, and a respect for eld
ers was tl .1. which held this I I 1.' I ....... I I Beresford
McLean, I is a sliceof life .. ,I lI I, .i i. I II I '''
In "A Cupful of Love", Norma Si I... .. ., i'" I I .... lians John
and Maria Bates. John was a local white lawyer who became a traveling judicial rep
resentative of the British Colonial Empire in the early 20th century. His family's
story is recreated in such detail that even i, ..i. they were considered upper class
at the time, the reader realizes that they I I more status than worldly goods.
They moved often to neighboring islands as a consequence of John's career. It must
have been very difficult for this family of eight to have been uprooted so many times,
but with each posting they seemed to surmount the difficulties of being in an unfa
miliar society, and they thrived despite some inter island prejudice.
The post WWII remembrances of childhood in Barbados are exquisitely rendered
in Ezra Griffith's "Sing Ins, Brams and the Odd Pedal". Griffith's father, a preacher,
moved the family to I i I .. . ..- .. the war, but they returned
to Bim in 1946, wh ,, ... I .. I, I ', I recollections of that period
resonate with love as well as the nostalgia of a '--
Ryhaan Shah's "A Clouded Sun" tells the story I I I a young Guyanese girl in
London, where she is enrolled in university after leaving her extensive Indian family for
the first time. It is perhaps the best written story in this collection, due to Aleyah's
descriptions of longing for home while striving to find her true identity in a foreign land.
Continued on page 51
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I SAlLMAKEN I
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ELECTRONih ICS I
had a canvas sack thrown over my right shoulder. It was heavy with fish just
purchased from the St. George's fish market down on the waterfront. The fish
felt cool on my back as I hiked up the steep hill back to the bus that would take
me back to Prickly Bay on the south shore of Grenada.
Suddenly something streaked by my head and there was a loud "thud!" by my
feet. I jumped back, ducked and twirled all in the same motion and saw there,
draped over the edge of a step, was a 14-inch mullet, eyes bugging out and bleed
ing from the gills. I was half a mile from the waterfront. I looked up, and circling
overhead several hundred feet above was '' .. I i 1 r,;; .l bird, sans break
fast. Actually, I doubt the culprit was the i... .1 I .. I I 11 seen them catch
small fish in their bills but I've never seen them carry such a large fish as this sorry
mullet. It must have been an osprey type of bird who bombarded me, but he was
I n for the poor mullet dead at my feet. But I also wondered what it would
have been like to have a two-pound mullet hit me on the top of my head at maxi
mum velocity? Ouch! It would be a shame for my poor 87-year-old mother to get a
call from a stranger in Grenada informing her about the unfortunate death of her
dear son Ja-- 1 l-l --i--1 t- death by a fat flying mullet. At least it was fresh.
This had .... i,,-1 I -I to the fish market in Grenada and I was impressed.
It is a new modern building and it looked squeaky clean. It smelled like fish, fresh
fish, a deep satisfying salty smell. There were two banks of Ushaped vendor's stalls,
with six or seven smiling ladies on each side calling me to come see their offerings
from the deep.
"I got de fresh dolphin, fresh, come look!" called a skinny young woman in a cal
ico dress with a bright purple bandana wrapped tightly around her head.
To her right the plump woman in a black -hir-t ", :- ut, "Look how fresh dem
snapper is! Dey still swimming Very fresh -... I 1 I and it was.
Her neighbor, a large lady ----ri;n; H1--k dress witl 1 -i-lt i i.1- fl---
"Here is de tuna, it very fresh . I -, heldupa .. i
fin tuna for my inspection.
"How much is the tuna?" I asked, hefting the great hunk of fish to my nose. It
smelled like I had just pulled it from the deep blue sea.
"All de fish is seven EC per pound," she answered.
"All the fish?" I questioned, not believing I heard correctly, 1i,,,, ,. .i .. .I ....
I'd heard of the Japanese paying us much as 300 US dollars I i i .. -.. i .
"Ya, mon, all de fish seven EC," she repeated.
Hmmm, I thought to myself, that's only about US$2.75 a pound! (Actually it
comes out to US$2.64). I was suddenly in the mood to buy fish.
This was going to be fun. I walked from stall to stall to see what was available.
There were piles of bright red spotted snappers, anchovies, fat rounds of various
kinds of really big fish, shark and marlin. A fresh basket of flying fish was being
poured out to replace a rapidly dwindling supply.
"Is that marlin?" I asked, ....... to a huge tail section of something.
"No, dis shark, you want -... a tiny wafer-thin grandmother urged as she
.r1-1- 1 ;- machete that was much longer than her arm.
I my swordfish?" I asked, not really thinking I could be that lucky.
"She got de swordfish over dey," she waved me toward the tall woman at the end
of her row.
I asked for five steaks, using my thumb and forefinger to indicate one inch thick.
She grabbed her razor-sharp machete and began to slice. One, two, three, four, five
deep cuts that easily sliced down to the backbone. She then picked up a large well
worn wooden club and whacked the huge knife to cut through the bone and fin
ished with big cuts as the steaks fell in a stack one by one. It was a huge amount
of fish, probably about 60 or 70 dollars worth back in Florida. I still did not com-
pletely believe that I had heard correctly, "all de fish seven EC per pound", so I wait
ed to see the final tally.
She scribbled numbers on a piece of brown paper bag and showed me her math:
"Five pounds, so 35 EC," she told me. A mere US$13.46. I had purchased far more
than we needed for our dinner party, but I couldn't help myself.
I went back to the tuna lady and asked for a two-pound hunk of fresh pink yellow
fin tuna. It was ironic that this beautiful fresh tuna was far cheaper than the canned
tuna at the supermarket and infinitely better. This piece I bought to make tuna
salad. I marinate it for a few hours in herbs and olive oil and then grill it medium-
-11 -f-i;-.t- it .ilt and chop it up for the best tuna salad you could ever
hI .... .I i.. ,- .i- mderful used like cold sliced beef for a sandwich, with
I i .. i. -i.. i .-salt and pepper, topped with shredded lettuce. If I plan
to use it that way medium-rare is better.
We had invited our old buddies from Luperon in the Dominican Republic, Chris
and Yani from Magus and Big John Cooper from Durban Dancer, over for dinner. I
made a fish stock with some of the fish scraps and bones, then added a handful of
shrimp to cook. I chopped a cup of the fish and shrimp and mashed it into a brick
of cream cheer- 111 .-2- - -; -;i;-; -. ;- Worcestershire sauce and quickly had
our appetizer I.... ... 11. i... .1 rve with crisp water crackers.
Continued on next page
Swagy up iN *mm
Geor ( Furlers in St9ck 4 N! ftlings in SloV1
Continued from previous page
The swordfish steaks I prepared the same way as the tuna, marinating it in Italian
herbs and olive oil. I made a fresh salsa with cooked green lentils, thinly sliced pear
and diced mango. I added a few tablespoons of freshly grated coconut. I folded in a
Si ... ... ii .... de with equal parts of olive oil ... I i.. I .i1 ..... ... ... .nd
S i1 .... juice. It was the perfect accoi,u ....... .. i I 1h .
For dessert I sliced up a bunch -f th- -;.;n-- T bought at the produce market
the day before. All I added was a .. I I 1. -1 I.... juice. I baked a yellow cake (I
admit it, I used a cake mix) and served big slices nestled up to a scoop of mango
and I smeared a thick stripe of hot fudge along the base of the plate for a tasty and
artistic final touch.
Yes, it really was as good as it sounds. We stuffed ourselves as we talked and
.. 1 1 ...I II. ... ,
I ,11 I .... I ,,,. .. r. trips to this wonderful fish market while we are in Grenada.
But then again I could just stand around and see what drops at my feet.
Seafood Cream Cheese Spread
Try this with your favorite crisp crackers or use it to stuff celery sticks.
S.-i t --, 1
1 I 11 1 I I 1 I I h, conch, shrimp -combination of any or all)
1 .i ,,, -i 1 1, 11 i parsley
1 h11 IIh h
1 teaspoon dried dill
1 dash Worchesterchire sauce
Mash and mix the seafood and cream cheese together well, then add the other
ingredients and mix until blended. Chill and serve.
Mango, Pear and Lentil Salsa
This salsa goes well with any grilled fish or meat.
1 Cup diced mango
1 Cup diced pear
1/2 Cup cooked green lentils, well drained
2 Tablespoons grated fresh coconut
1 Tablespoon olive oil
1 Tablespoon white basalmic vinegar (other white vinegar could be used)
1 Tablespoon chopped fresh parsley
1 Tablespoon chopped fresh chives
1 teaspoon finely chopped hot peppers (optional)
Mix all ingredients except the chives and parsley which should be added just
before serving. Stores well for up to two days.
t; i I I E .
'I will be making many trips to this wonderful fish market while we are in Grenada'
Grilled Fish Steaks
Tuna or swordfish work great!
Fresh fish steaks, 1 inch thick
Dried herbs such as an Italian blend
Salt and pepper to taste
The fresh fish steaks you use should be at least one inch thick or they could dry
out while cooking. Rinse and dry them, then coat liberally with olive oil and your
favorite dried herbs. Set aside for 20 minutes to several hours. (Refrigerate if nec
essary.) Grill on well-oiled medium hot grill.
Add salt and pepper to taste. Fish steaks should be slightly on the rare side as
they will continue to cook a little after you remove them from the grill. (If using for
tuna salad, cook it through but don't let it get dry.)
Serve with your favorite salsa on the side.
Tuna Fish Salad
2 Cups flaked or chopped grilled tuna
3/4 Cup finely diced celery
1/2 Cup mayonnaise
2 Tablespoons chopped fresh parsley
1 teaspoon fresh lime juice
Salt and pepper to taste
Grill tuna as directed above, cool and chop or flake. Mix all ingredients together
in a bowl. Serve on crisp greens or use in sandwiches.
Tuna Steak Sandwiches
Slice medium-rare grilled tuna steaks into 1/4 inch thick slices. Spread mayon
naise on your favorite bread, layer with tuna, add salt and pepper to taste, top with
Captain Jack Foard is cruising the Caribbean aboard the Admiral 38 catamaran
Famous Potatoes. Visit his website at web.mac.com/famouspotatoes2.
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Island Marine Services and five minutes drive from the airport.
Aquanauts Dive Center
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VHF Channel 16
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V..% CRENADIAN? k:I
1BATIK N B
CLOTHING i GIFTS.
Shirley's Soaked Pommecythere
About a dozen full, but not ripe, pommecythere. (The
amount depends on the size of the container you are
planning to fill.)
1/2 Cup white vinegar
1 Tablespoon salt
1/2 teaspoon r-;;;;1 black pepper
5 big cloves ol . minced
1/2 hot pepper, or to your taste
Soaked pommecythere is a favorite of mine! It can be
eaten as a snack or an accompaniment to other foods.
Fill half of your container, jar or bowl, with water. Add
remaining ingredients except for the fruit. Peel pom
mecythere and make cuts into the flesh. Put into con
trainer and let sit for at least two days.
spiny seed. These spines harden when the fruit
matures, so the sweet fully ripened fruit should be
carefully sucked from the seed to avoid to an unwant
ed pierced lip or tongue.
Pommecythere has suffered by comparison with the
taste and appearance of the mango. However, if the
pommecythere is picked at the correct time, ripe but
still firm, it yields a delicious juice for cold beverages.
(Pommecythere fruit have 160 calories per 100 grams:
ten per J ..- -..... 1 "' ent is water, which is
why it .1 1 .. i I. pommecythere ripens
the flesl i .... ... 11 i i orange and becomes
sweet. i. i ,' .' i delicious ice. Stewing
the ripe flesh with a little water and sugar and then
straining produces a rich apple-type sauce. By adding
cinnamon or cloves this sauce can be slowly cooked to
a thick preserve similar to apple butter. Unripe fruits
can be made into chutney or pickled. (The pomme
cythere is very popular in Asia, and eaten at all stages
Pommecythere is also a good flavoring ingredient for
sauces and soups and can be used like papaya as a
meat tenderizer. Pommecythere leaves smell great, are
slightly sour and are used for flavoring, particularly cur
ries. Indonesians make a dish with steamed leaves, salt
fish and rice. The fruit is a good source of vitamin C.
Pommecythere Chutney with Raisins
2 pounds pommecythere fruit, half ripe
1/2 pound golden raisins
2 cloves minced garlic
2 Tablespoons grated fresh ginger root
3 Cups clear vinegar
2 Cups refined (white) sugar
2 Tablespoons salt
5 hot peppers, cleaned of seeds, stems and mem-
branes (more can be added to taste)
1 Tablespoon ground cinnamon, or 1 stick cinnamon
5 whole cloves
Ti. ..1. i ash fruit, peel and slice away from
sc i i,1 i ,,,i with all other ingredients in a heavy
stainless steel or cast iron pan or skillet (aluminum
will blacken the chutney).
S... I a boil and then simmer for an hour and a
I, .11 Ii thick. Stir often to keep chutney from stick
ing and burning.
Fill jars which have been sterilized by immersing in
boiling water. It is best to use containers that do not
have metal lids.
Pommecythere Fruit Sauce
5 pounds fruit, peeled with seeds removed
1/2 Cup water
2 Tablespoons ground cinnamon, cloves and other
spices to taste
Bring all ingredients to a boil and simmer for one
hour with continuous stirring to mash up the fruit.
Strain if the consistency is too thick. Continue cook
ing if the consistency is too thin. Serve hot or cold as
a n accompaniment for beef or chicken main dishes.
1 pound pommecythere fruit
1 Cup brown sugar
1 Cup water
1 stick cinnamon
6 drop A^nnehturq bittpre
Wash 1 I I" ',, ... I ... .1 many pricks in it with a
fork. Combine water and sugar in a saucepan and boil.
Add pommecythere and cinnamon. Boil, stirring con
stantly, until fruit becomes clear and syrup is thick.
Stir in bitters. Store in hot sterile jars or refrigerate.
To serve, remove seeds and use as you would chut
ney, or as jam on bread or biscuits.
Called golden apples in many islands, these
pommecythere fruit are worthy of WB. Yeats: '...and
pluck till time and times are done, the silver apples
of the moon, the golden apples of the sun'
For the Gardeners
Pommecythere trees grow well in all types of well
drained soil. The trees can be grown from seeds, which
take a month to sprout. Each seed produces multiple
sprouts. After a few months, the sprouts can be plant
ed in holes bedded with well-rotted manure. It is best
to have the small trees at least partially shaded by
mature banana plants. They should be spaced at least
15 feet apart, and away from fences or buildings.
Pommecythere trees can grow as much as six feet a
year. The trees should be topped to keep them at a
reasonable height, otherwise they will grow rapidly to
40 feet or more, which makes the fruit difficult to har
vest and susceptible to damage from high winds.
These trees should bear in three to four years. Dwarf
types bear in one to two years at a height of less than
six feet. During the dry season the leaves turn yellow
and drop. Just as the seasonal r, ;; 1-- -i clusters of
small white blossoms of both - I .... which can
self-pollinate. The green fruit will appear in clusters of
ten or more, and ripen to a golden skin. Using a high
nitrogen fertilizer mix once a month with regular
watering, a mature tree should annually bear about
200 pounds of fruit.
Ever see fruits and vegetables at a Caribbean veggie
stand and just don't know what they are or taste like?
Don't be afraid to ask and sample. Pommecythere is
one of the fruits you may not have seen before. In the
Caribbean, pommecythere (pronounced pom-set-tey) is
usually only found in the southern islands, especially
in Trinidad. It is believed to have originated in Tahiti
and is native to Polynesia and Malaysia. Captain Bligh
brought pommecythere to Jamaica in 1782.
Pommecythere is the French name, but it has a vari
ety of other names such as ambarella, golden apple,
Jew or June plum, Jamaican plum and mango jobo.
The oblong, yellow-orange pommecythere tastes like
a cross between a mango and a pineapple.
Pommecythere's main distinguishing feature is its
When you're far out at sea, spending weeks at a remote anchorage, or just
S1... 1 open a tin/can of whatever you have Stored Aboard and have your
1 . tasty meal!
This should serve about six people (with plenty of boiled rice it might even go
further) and is a great way of using up end-of-cruise supplies.
2 potatoes and 2 carrots, peeled and cut into bite-size pieces
1 can of sweet corn, drained
1 can of peas or beans, drained
2 Tablespoons olive oil
1 1..- '- thinly sliced
1, ground turmeric
1/2 teaspoon chili powder (more if you want the curry hotter)
1/2 teaspoon ground cumin
1/2 teaspoon powdered coriander
1 teaspoon mustard seeds
1 fourteen-ounce can of chopped tomatoes and their liquid. (If you have a can
of whole tomatoesjust take your galley scissors and slice them right in the can!)
1 can red kidney beans, drained and rinsed
1 can of hi-l-r-" '- r ,-'n-n beans, drained and rinsed
6 Tables ..- 1i 1,, I .... s) water
1 fourteen-fluid-ounce can coconut milk (I use the "lite" version)
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Fresh coriander/cilantro (if available)
This recipe does not have to be adhered to exactly, so if you have other cans
of veggies (or even some cans of meat or fish you want to use up) or you don't
have some of the above, no problem just mix and match.
Add the potatoes and carrots to a pan of boiling, salted water and cook for
about five minutes. Add the corn and peas to the boiling water and turn off the
heat. Allow them to sit for a minute, then drain the veggies and cover them to
Heat the olive oil in a large pan, add the onions and cook until they are trans
parent, about five to seven minutes. Add the turmeric, chili powder, cumin,
coriander and mustard seeds, stir them into the onions and cook for about one
minute. Add the tomatoes, kidney beans, chickpea/garbanzo beans to the
onions and spices. Stir together. Add the drained potatoes, carrots, corn and
peas. Mix well and add salt and pepper to taste.
Turn the heat up quite high and cook the curry for five to ten minutes, stir
ring frequently. Lower the heat and cook for another five minutes.
Add the coconut milk and cook for only three minutes, making sure the
coconut milk doesn't curdle or separate.
Serve over boiled rice with a little chopped fresh coriander/cilantro sprinkled
over the top.
As a child I couldn't stand spinach; even the smell would get a loud "Yuk!"
from me. But now I adore it, raw in a salad or cooked any which way! Here's a
nice quick easy recipe, using up canned/tinned spinach, that I love -and I feel
sure so would Popeye. This will serve four people as a side dish, but to serve
more just double or treble the amounts.
1 fourteen ounce can of spinach
1/2 Cup of sour cream, fat free or normal
1/2 Cup of those ready fried onions that come in a cardboard tube! (Or you
can fry your own if you have some fresh ones you want to use up.)
Drain the spinach well and squeeze out as much liquid as possible (I put the
spinach in a clean piece of muslin or cotton fabric and wring it out).
Mix the spinach and the sour cream I 11 ... n ovenproof dish and bake
for about 30 minutes at 325F (170C), .1 .. i. a microwave, you can heat
it in that. Once it is piping hot, top with the onions and serve.
Always a good stand-by, those cans of whole (new) potatoes don't have to be
as boring as they look. For example, you can drain and wash them to use in a
potato salad. Here are two more ideas to bring them to life. Both the potato
recipes are good accompaniments for roast meats as a change from ordinary
roast or baked potatoes.
Onion Roasted Potatoes
6 fourteen or sixteen-ounce cans whole potatoes, drained, rinsed and dried
1 packet onion soup mix
1/2 Cup (4 ounces) melted butter
Garlic powder and black pepper to taste
Heat oven to 350F (180C). Cut the larger potatoes in half. Place potatoes
in a mixing bowl along with the onion soup mix and garlic powder and pep
per to taste. Pour on the melted butter and mix well until all the potatoes are
coated. Pop them into a greased oven dish or baking tray and bake until crisp
1 fourteen or sixteen ounce can whole potatoes, drained, rinsed and dried
2 Tablespoons butter
1/2 Cup (3 1/2 ounces) brown sugar
Melt the butter in a frying pan/skillet. Add the sugar and stir over heat till it
bubbles. Let it carry on cooking till it starts to turn brown and caramelise, keep
ing a close eye on it so it doesn't burn. Add the potatoes and cook them for
about four minutes stirring continuously, until they are heated through.
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E-mail: email@example.com HAPPY HOUR 5-6
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THE FOOD STORE
Tel: (784) 488-8479 Fax: (784) 456-5230
Visitors to Mustique are invited to:
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Now equipped with WIFI you can enjoy sunset cocktails and catch up on the web.
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Visit Basil's in Mustique or St. Vincent
WE SIARUD TEWRD!
Marine Survey throughout the Caribbean
PURCHASE INSURANCE DAMAGE
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Accreditation American Boat and Yacht Council
Tel: Grenada (+1 473) 407 4388
CARRIACOU REAL ESTATE
Land and houses for sale
For full details see our website:
or contact Carolyn Alexander at
Down Island Ltd
Tel: (473) 443 8182 Fax: (473) 443 8290
We also handle Villa Rentals &
Property Management on Carriacou
The CARICOM Advance Passenger Information (API)
reporting procedure which you have highlighted
recently appears to be utter nonsense for privately
operated cruising and non-passenger-carrying boats.
Does it really apply to yachts, as you say? The website
you quote in the news update in the September issue
refers only to passenger-carrying ships and aircraft.
No response has been received for my requests to
CARICOM for clarification. It is vital that Caribbean
Compass (whom we all rely on) gets stuck into this
and points out the stupidity!
I just read with intense outrage the article on API in
the October Compass. There's no need to reiterate the
reasons this is a stupid law; you did a pretty thorough
job yourselves. My intention in writing to you is to try
to figure out a way that all of us cruisers can put voice
to the wrong this is causing, or will cause. Perhaps a
website, --1 ;; -: -11 i
ingthisii.i , IIi 'I i. i '" ..1,
cruisers would no longer visit those islands which
require such API documentation, I wonder that the
governments of those islands would not recognize the
loss in tourist dollars (that which in most cases is
their biggest industry) might suffer.
Prior to reading your very well-written article, I had
only heard vague rumblings and hadn't really taken
any of it to mean much. Now realizing how seriously it
may affect my cruising plans, something needs to be
done to educate these governments that application of
that poorly-thought-out law will be a serious mistake,
which could seriously affect their economies.
Cruisers are not terrorists. How could anyone even
think that a (relatively) small boat which is typically
crewed by a husband and wife be considered as a ter
rorist risk? Give me a break. That concept couldn't
even seem reasonable to non-sailors. I can agree that it
may be a realistic idea for large passenger ships, where
I suppose it could theoretically be possible to import
terrorists, but, in the Caribbean, I don't think so.
I read Chris Doyle's article also, and agree with him
in the main, but, am more inclined to think that if the
cruising community were able to band together, we
could put a dead stop to this nonsense altogether. I
realize, though, that's a pretty tall order to get all the
cruisers to band together and put names to a docu
ment stating that this law is a bad idea. I've no idea
how to implement such an idea, but am hopeful some
one else might see it as valid and have a real idea how
to do this, including passing the information on to the
island governments involved.
Maybe we can put a stop to this silliness.
S/V Gypsy Wind
It came to my attention, yesterday (October 18th),
that Antigua and Barbuda are suspending APIS as
regarding yachts. The entire community owes you a
great debt of gratitude. You stoked the fire and
brought the kettle to a boil.
I would like to express my greatest gratitude to
Penny Tyas for coming forth originally. I realize that
your article was the catalyst for change, but it was a
local journalist who struck the match and lit the fire.
Heart-felt gratitude from the cruising community to
Penny and Compass.
Dear Simon, Ron and Steve,
The intention of API -to detect terrorists and other
criminals -is good. However, it seems that legislation
was passed by "the powers that be" without realizing
the current system's unworkability for the majority of
yachts and the resultant potentialfor severe damage to
the Eastern Caribbean's yacht tourism industry.
We hope it is possible for appropriate amendments to
be made. We hear that some governments are taking
steps to do so as we go to press, although we have not
yet received official confirmation of the suspension in
Antigua & Barbuda. As we go to press, the facts as best
we know them are outlined on pages 6 and 7.
There are regular updates on this situation at
www.doyleguides.com/apis regulations.htm and
http://safetyandsecurynet.com/NEWS.htmL Chris Doyle
suggests, and we agree, that the best way to let the gov
ernments involved know how the API requirements, as cur
rently legislated, could adversely impact their economies, is
by yachting visitors and stakeholders phoning, mailing or
writing to the relevant Ministries of Tourism and letting
them know of your concerns. You can also contact the local
maine trades associations, who are well aware of the
implications to their members' livelihoods. See e-addresses
on page 7.
Open Letter to the Commandant of the
Colombian Coast Guard
Dear Captain Locarno,
I wanted to take this opportunity to inform you of
the excellent service the Coast Guard and Navy have
provided in ensuring our safety and security while in
Colombian waters since early May.
I would like to describe the reason we feel so secure
in your country:
We crossed from Aruba to Cabo de la Vela with eight
other ...... vessels and in the middle of the night
shortly, *. -.1t-ri 1 '-l-mbian waters, one of our
fellow boats, -, .. ... was approached and
boarded by your Coast Guard. After a short period of
search and questioning they were happy to know that
S/V Geremar was one of 11. ..1 .. 14 that had
filed a float plan of our ..... [I ., note: The
Colombian Coast Guard suggests that visiting yachts
I'il r'r nl fil-' i. p ia, ilth the Port Captain's office
ni[ ', u.,l,) ,'} .r;,bii i, l, ,r/ ] About one half hour
later another of our friends, S/V Common Crossing,
was similarly approached by your fine Coast Guard
crew. Once again they departed, satisfied that this
.- fl-tilla was all the same group.
-1. .i after arriving in Cabo de la Vela a Coast
Guard vessel passed nearby the anchored fleet, slowed
down, evaluated the group ( r ,.1, .. 1 ,, 1 on.
We then moved on to Five : i i... ... ica) and
once the whole fleet had arrived and anchored we were
once again investigated, this time by a helicopter that cir
cled many times as it identified all of the vessels in the
flotilla. We stayed in Bahia Guayraca for three days wait
ing for a weather opportunity to continue. When we did
decide to move on we found the seas to be unfavourable
to continue the next leg of our journey to Punta Hermosa
(Puerto Velero) so we decided to go to Rodadero (Santa
Marta) and hold up there for better weather.
This was a fine anchorage but it was not on our float
plan and we failed to notify the Coast Guard of our change
in plans. Hence, we were all boarded and searched by
your courteous gentlemen of the Coast Guard and
advised that we had 24 hours to move on. After some
: I ...... i .... I ii ewwewereper
,,, 1 i i ,-window.
On our next leg to Punt Hermosa, we arrived and
notified the Coast Guard of our intentions and we
were then met by another group of your fine men to
inspect our boats and complete the necessary paper
work that the Coast Guard performs.
The next day we proceeded to '.rt :-;;. -nd arrived
without incident. All of this to I II comfort
able and secure knowing that there was always a
Coast Guard crew nearby. Moreover, we have never
felt threatened in any of our travels in Colombia, to
Bogota and in Cartagena. A real credit to the Coast
Guard and all the security forces in the Country.
Thank you for making us feel so safe and welcome in
your country. Keep up the good work, it is very much
appreciated by all visitors and cruisers alike.
Dear Mr. Drury,
We received your letter and are very grateful for your
kind words. We of the Colombian Navy's Caribbean
Coast Guard consider it very important that we com-
plete our assigned mission to protect and guarantee
the lives of all who work and ,i 11. ...- 1 on the
sea. Your words strengthen t.- 1,11 -.. motion,
and encourage us all the more to complete our work.
In the Caribbean Coast Guard we have a motto we
try to fulfill literally: "Safe lives, safe ships, sustain
able seas and insurance.
We hope you and your shipmates return to our country.
Thank you very much.
Commander Germnn Humberto Locarno Blanco
Caribbean Coastguard Commander
Cuerpo Guardacostas Armada Nacional
Cartagena de Indias
Continued on next page
BUY STREET'S GUIDES
Real sailors use Street's Guides for inter-island and harbor
piloting directions, plus interesting anecdotes of people,
places and history. Street's Guides are the only ones that
describe ALL the anchorages in the Eastern Caribbean.
Real sailors also buy the other guides, that have pretty
pictures and describe hotels, bars, restaurants and
anchorages that are popular with bareboaters.
Real sailors circle in Street's Guide the anchorages that
are not described in the other guides. This enables them
to find quiet anchorages far from "The Madding Crowd".
Street's Guides are available
at bookshops and chandleries, or from
www.iUniverse.com and www.seabooks.com
Continued from previous page
We are French cruisers who have ..1...
more than seven years through more i ... ** .11 ..I
We'd like to draw attention to difficulties which have
arisen in the *.'--r'.- of Spanish Water, Curacao,
: . . .. 1 1 radio.
I .. .. i ... the different guides, we gather that
the authorities in Curacao, in accordance with inter
:.i, i ,,i .i have restricted boat-to-boat VHF
: i ,, i I I allowing channels: 6, 8, 72 and 77.
Why then, is Channel 72 arbitrarily occupied for half
an hour or so every morning by a transmission, entire
ly and solely in English, which is baptized "The Net"?
If anyone else wants or needs to use Channel 72 dur
ing that time, they run the risk of a severe scolding or
even more serious threats. How have some cruisers
been allowed to hijack this channel for their own use?
I am retired, 68 years old, and have the deepest
respect for the rules and laws of the countries I visit.
I think that equally, there should be respect for the
means of communication put at our disposal in the
countries we visit. The liberties some cruisers are tak
ing with VHF i. .. i-.. tensions and conflicts
in our little ............ i official action by the
authorities have to be taken to return serenity to the
beautiful anchorage of Spanish Water?
A VHF User, Too
Readers have recently asked for information about
insurance for yachts in the Caribbean. In answer to
their queries I submit:
There are many reputable insurers who will provide
coverage for a sailboat both afloat and on the hard.
Any good insurance agent or broker who writes yacht
business should be able to direct you to them.
Please remember that the cheapest policy is not
always the best, and you should read a pro forma copy
of the policy before you buy -I know its boring, but
not everything is covered.
I also suggest that if you are storing your boat on
the hard in the islands, you should be certain that (1)
damage from rats and other vermin is covered, (2)
that the policy does not have any unrealistic require
ments regarding the earth surface on which the ves
sel is stored and securing of the jack stands, and (3)
conditions for a covered theft claim are realistic. I
have seen several claims in which a vessel stored on
the hard had its interior (wiring, food, electronic com-
ponents, cushions, furnishings, head liner, etcetera)
devastated by rats who somehow found a way to get
inside, and have seen policies which have unrealistic
requirements regarding securing the vessel while on
S/V Quite Nice
On Monday, September 24th, St. Thomas residents
Deborah Barton and Richard Baker were out for a day
on the water on their 36-foot liveaboard trawler,
Mambo, which is registered in the USVI. They were
trolling with a cheap spinning reel and light tackle
when they were boarded by Conservation and
Fisheries in the British Virgin Islands and arrested for
illegal entry and fishing without a license.
They were escorted to Road Town and not formally
-. -- ;;;-ntil 7:30PM on Monld- nin' They were in
.. i.. the magistrate .I * 1. I allowing morn
ing. There were virtually no business hours between the
time that they were charged and when they were in
court for them to have contacted a barrister. Being by
nature very honest people and not understanding the
penalty that they were facing, Richard and Debbie
i III.I' I 'i I ,i .... I
guilty of illegal entry and fishing without a license. The
combined fine for Richard was US$46,000. In lieu of the
$46,000, Richard was sentenced to 12 months in prison
in Tortola. Richard is now (October 4th) in a high secu
rity cell in Her Majesty's Prison in Tortola.
Richard and Debbie are a very nice semi-retired cou
ple of modest means. Richard is a former US Army
paratrooper and is retired from the Washington DC
Police Department. They were relatively new to boat
ing and have often made jokes about their inability to
fish. The sentence that Richard received was harsher
than any received thus far by any of the commercial
fishermen who have faced the same charges in the
BVI. Debbie is probably going to have to cash in an
IRA, the only money that either of them has set aside
for their retirement, in order to get Richard out of jail.
Whether or not the fine is paid and Richard is
released, this event will have a lasting negative impact
on their future and their future financial stability.
Magistrate Valerie Stevens implied at Richard's sen
;; ti-t she wanted t- -1 .-.. .- t the
11 ,.i m any US ... .. I .. .. .-1.... in
the British Virgin Islands and that it needs to stop.
This message was made all too clear to US Virgin
Islands' fishermen by actions taken by the British
Virgin Islands over the last few years without it having
to be reiterated by the grossly unfair sentence of
someone not at all related to the fishing industry.
Most if not all of our fishermen are aware of the BVI
fishing license law, and most try to obey the law.
Richard Baker is not a commercial fisherman, nor is
he a serious recreational fisherman. To penalize a
cruiser of modest means because he had basically
stumbled into the fray is outrageously unjust.
St. Thomas, USVI
Editor's note: For more information on this and similar
We had a wonderful holiday in St. Lucia and we were
looking forward to a catamaran trip along the coastline
to Soufriere on the 2nd of October. We arrived at
around 10:45AM and when we stepped onto the pier we
l t- 1--- -i--' -.t f ---. -r by the
: i-. i i.-i .... . ..I .... i . tu rtles .
We counted about a dozen captured individuals of these
Large sea turtles caught in St. Lucia last month
-lnin-r--l species! What further baffled us is that
- .i.. .. apparently lies in the midst of St. Lucia's
Marine Park, as we were told by our taxi driver.
We traveled to many countries experiencing their
cultures, which we much appreciate and respect. We
don't dare to impose our way of life onto others.
However, we believe that Soufriere's fishermen don't
rely on turtle meat to sustain their livelihoods and St.
Lucia, as part of the international community, has an
important role to play in the conservation of nature, at
least on a regional scale. Sea turtles are ancient crea
tures traveling great distances, exposed to many dan
gers and the destruction of their feeding and breeding
grounds. They mature and reproduce very slowly,
hence the incident witnessed today must have serious
: consequences further afield.
,,i i it be possible for the St. Lucian government
to review its conservation policies? It would be a sad
day for St. Lucia and humanity i-n -n -rl t- lose these
: .... i. ..i. .i.. -.forever. i i i to return
Ii..- i .,,iii ,-i~nd with our friends, enjoying
unspoiled nature in a sustainable environment.
Adrian and Heather Johnston
Dear Adrian and Heather,
After a decade-long moratorium on sea turtle fishing,
St. Lucia re introduced turtle-fishing seasons (currently
October 1st to February 28th) a few years ago, with
restrictions on size and catch methods.
Turtles cannot be caught at all within the marine
reserves of the SMMA; neither are gill nets, which are
often used to catch these creatures, allowed within the
SMMA. We have received information that the turtles you
saw were caught outside the SMMA.
Although al species of sea turtles found in the
Caribbean are considered endangered, they can still be
legally caught (within the applicable fisheries regular
tions) in some countries, such as St. Lucia and St.
Vincent & the Grenadines. Other neighboring countries
forbid turtle fishing entirely, and Barbados, for exam
ple, has an exemplary turtle conservation program.
For a wealth of information on sea turtle conservation
in the Caribbean, we recommend contacting the Wider
Caribbean Sea Turtle Conservation Network, WIDE
CAST. Their website (www.widecast.org) is currently
under construction, but the director, Dr. Karen Eckert,
can be reached at firstname.lastname@example.org.
As I write this I am in St. Thomas, US Virgin Islands,
waiting for my passport and bail money to be
returned. I have been jailed for three days, detained
for 151 days, posted US$100,000 bail, spent $10,000
in attorney fees, and was fined $18,000. I don't think
I will be back any time soon. This is no paradise.
I got caught up in a legal trap that is immoral and I
Continued on next page
Independent Boatyard St. Thomas, USVI
47 Stevens, 1981 $195,000
44 Beneteau Oceanis, 1994 $185,000
44 CSY walkover, 1978 $ 79,000
42 Hunter Passage, 1995 $159,000
42 Catalina MKII, 1996 $119,000
41 Formosa Ketch, 1975 $ 99,000
40 Passport Sloop, 1981 $ 85,000
38 Morgan/Catalina, 1996 $119,000
37 Gulfstar, 1977/2002 refit $ 84,000
37 C&C, 1985 $ 48,600
36 Frers, 1985 $ 48,500
34 Tartan, 1988 $ 49,000
32 Bristol Sloop, 1976 $ 25,000
55 Cheoy Lee LRC, 1980 $ 329,000
50 Marine Trader, 1980 $ 139,000
45 Silverton MY, 2003 $ 399,000
42 Hershine Trawler $ 40,000
42 Cruisers Express, 1999 $ 249,000
41 Sea Ray Express, 2001 $ 245,000
37 Fountaine Pajot Power Cat $ 425,000
29 Proline, 1995 twin 225 hp $ 45,000
27 Grady White, 1997 $ 40,000
Leading Broke in he French lands
l most viid specimdi web site in Caribbean
Opefri gbi US n European Markets
Benefit from currency rate
'&g gli' # 1
T he insurance business has changed,
No longer can brokers talk of low rates.
Rather, the honest broker can only say,
"I'll do my best to minimize your increase!"
There is good insurance, there is cheap
insurance, but there is no good cheap
insurance.You never know how good your
ol insurance is untilyou have a claim
S or unsatisfactorily settled,
I have been in the insurance business
40 years, 36 with Lloyds, and my claims
settlement record cannot be beat.
Fax DM Street
lolaire Enterprises (353) 28 33927
or e-mail: email@example.com
Didier and Maria
Sails & Canvas (repairs & fabrication]
located at Carenantilles dockyard
Open Monday to Friday 8- 1 2am 2-6pm
Saturday by appointment
tel/fax: (596] 596 74 88 32
Full Service Station:
-Fuel/Diesel/Gas Laundry Call Station
-Grocery Ice Cigarettes Cold Drinks
-Breakfast (Coffee, Croissants) Fishing Items
Conveniently located at
Carenantilles Dockyard LE MARIN
Tel +596 74 70 94 Fax +596 7478 08
Mobile +696 29 28 12
Open 7am to 7pm Sundays: 7am to 1pm
A&C YACHT BROKERS
BOATS FOR SALE
Port de plaisance du MARIN
nusi urvuulu LemS *IIwuanginwumz
1992 29'Oix Catbbea Sloop (OWCEDHI) USS 18,000
1999 30'Henderson30(RacingYacht) US$ 60,000
1988 30'Jeanneau Sunlih 30 USS 40,000
1986 36' Lawanos Tosca US 53,000
1989 36' Renke Super 10 Steel Sop US$ 45,000
1977 37'Gin Fizz EU 42,500
1968 39' Cheoy Lee Shore 40 US 95,000
1977 39'Roberts (Home built) US$ 40,000
1978 40' Alanic 40 USS 70,000
1985 40'Offshore 40(REDUCEOI USS 149,000
1987 42'TaChao Mermaid 42 (Ihdet rilH) USS 80,000
1999 43'Wauquiez PilotSaloo EUS 247.500
1999 44' mgiulf US$ 240,000
1992 45' FoIm US$ 150,000
1991 50'C4esialPiloomuse US$ 268.000
1987 51'8eneeau dylle15.5 US$ 160,000
1995 53'Super Maranmu (fR DICIDH) USS 329.000
1982 53'Hatteras tumyCruise USS 254,000
1994 55'Oystr 55 USS 776.000
1973 56'VischMolo Yaht USS 150,000
1993 36.5'DeanCatamaran (flDUCEDIi) USS 99,500
2002 37' FountainePajol US 325,000
1998 47' Gance Catamaran USS 168,000
1980 54' Noman Cross Tdnr an US 295,000
1995 55' Cuslom uil Trimaran USS 350,000
1991 55' LagoonCamaran USS 559,000
1990 72' Alunmann (Louoni) Caiamaran USS 1.190.00
Continuedfrom previous page
I am sure that I am not the first sailboat cruiser entering
USVI waters to be victimized by this well-hidden gun law.
Virgin Islanders are good people. To them I apolo
gize. I think they deserve better.
... ,,,. business in 2001, I have pursued a
Si I.... sailing to exotic places. Piracy is a
problem and violent crime against "cruisers" in the
Caribbean and elsewhere is increasing. [Editor's note:
Actually over the past year in the Caribbean, it's been
decreasing.] For these reasons I carry firearms
onboard. I register or surrender my guns whenever it
is required. My problem here was not due to my neg
ligence. I am a member of the National Rifle
Association and have a valid Florida Concealed
Weapons Permit as evidence of my responsible gun
ownership. I was in an elite army airborne unit and
trained to use a variety of firearms. I grew up on
ranches in Montana where carrying a gun when leave
ing the ranch house was standard.
On April 24, 2007 in St. Thomas, ATF and local
authorities confiscated my guns following a USCG
I was not arrested because the investigating officers
were satisfied that I posed no threat to the communi
ty, and I had cause for possessing mn- .run Weeks
later, on May 22, I was arrested and .I i I three
days. The arresting officer apologized; he knew it
served no good purpose. A USVI prosecutor and my
attorney agreed that $3,500 bail was appropriate.
However, the judge demanded a $100,000 cash bail
(O.J. Simpson only paid $125,000 for armed robbery).
I was originally charged with Failure to Register
Firearms. However, the over-zealous USVI
Prosecutor's Office quickly upped the charges to Illegal
Firearms Possession that carries mandatory prison
sentences and heavy fines, completely disregarding
my Florida Concealed Weapons Permit which is
accepted in 30 States and by the USVI Gun Laws.
The USVI Prosecutor tried every way to get maxi
i....... i ...*i, i tome. Twicehetriedtogetthe
i ...... it to press charges, but they
refused. I broke no US Federal Laws! I am still puzzled
as to why he pursued that route.
After a lot of backroom negotiation between the pros
ecutor and my attorney, and some -;;--' r .-.'-'nt by
the ATF Agent, a first-class individt .1 1 .- I a
deal. It stipulated that if I pled guilty to Failure to
Register Firearms, the prosecutor would recommend to
I i. O- 000 fine with no jail time and the return
SI ... -. i.,, I was told that 99 percent of the time
the judge accepts the prosecutor's recommendations.
My attorney encoul .. I i the plea offer.
So, I made the I. I and, at the same
hearing, I requested permission to travel because
Hurricane Dean was aiming at the Virgin Islands. I
explained that my sailboat represents a large part of
my retirement net worth and my storm insurance is
not valid at this latitude since July 1st. My request to
travel was denied because the judge felt that if other
boats were willing to stay in St. Thomas it was good
enough for me. He also said that "$100,000 is not
.. 1. to assure that you will return for sentencing,
.nake another request."
On September 21st, I faced the judge again, this
time for sentencing. The Pre-Sentence Report
explained that boaters rely on the Customs clear-in
procedure to define the rules; their cruising guides
make no mention of USVI gun registration. He was
given examples of other countries' Customs forms,
with spaces for gun declarations, versus the US
Customs Form (the one used for USVI clear-in).
nd r- -in t- r-gister a gun and then having
l .1 I .. permit (three local references
are required) to actually possess your registered
gun makes no sense for cruisers passing through
The judge listened to our arguments and examples,
unimpressed by their merit, ultimately stating, "You
should have known that there was a USVI gun registrar
tion requirement: you could have searched the Internet."
I was fined $18,000. No guns were returned.
Is it reasonable to expect visitors to search the
Internet to discover critical laws and requirements not
defined at Customs clear-in?
A transient boater cannot i.11ll- r-i:t- a firearm
in the USVI. You must have I -, I I :sidence or
place of business within the Virgin Islands" to apply
for g ... .,-, I.,, ,, ly attorney, a former USVI pros
ecut( .. i i i.. legal wording you would have
been arrested if you had tried to register your guns".
How does a transient boater approach the USVI
Government about gun registration without risk of
Nothing relating to USVI gun registration and per
mitting was in print: no notices at Customs, no
notices at the marinas. Boaters are left to chance to
discover the USVI gun registration requirement. Some
countries require boaters to carry their guns to
Customs for surrender, others forbid it. Without a
notice at Customs, or anything in print as guidance,
what do you do? A wrong decision could get you
arrested. In my case it did.
PS I finally got my passport back, but the bail refund
check will not be available until next Wednesday. Within
minutes of getting the check I will be sailing to Trinidad.
On the morning of August 10th we arrived in
Clifton Harbour, Union Island, aboard the catama
ran El Paseo, and anchored with plenty of chain in
two metres of water. In the evening, the wind picked
up to 45 knots, with rain. Although I started the
motors to ease the strain on the chain, a violent gust
dislodged the anchor and we ended up dragging
onto the reef.
When the wind and rain subsided, a water taxi
came to help and carried an anchor out to the port
side. The boat was resting on a plateau of coral
sand. I decided to wait until high tide to try to
kedge off. The water taxi driver said he would
return to show us the way. At high tide, at 0225
hours, we got free, but in the pitch dark we ended
up aground again.
The water taxi returned, with two others, too late
to help but demanding EC$2,000. I agreed to pay if
they got us free. They tried, but with no success,
and said they would return at the next high tide, in
In the morning I examined the boat: there was some
paint and gelcoat damage, and damage to one tran
som, but the bilges were dry.
At 1400, seven water taxis came and tried to pull us
off. After many tries, I decided to stop, having broken
many ... i 11 11 hatch. We would wait for the
next h.,. 1. I .1 ** hours. By 1800 I realized that
the starboard keel was now buried deep in sand; it
would be a miracle to free the boat. A man with
equipment came and said that for EC$7,000 he could
vacuum the sand from around the 1-1 ^ in r
agreed to pay if the operation was -.. i I.
work was difficult, but eventually El Paseo was freed
and we were towed to the pontoon by the Palm Island
Resort's service boat.
At the pontoon, about 20 people forced me to sign a
US$10,000 debt acknowledgment. I wrote on the
paper that I was only signing it under duress. Once I
=,n.-- it the crowd dispersed. Despite interference
. ... ... water taxis, we moved El Paseo to the
Anchorage Yacht Club, where I asked the manageress
to phone the police. The police told us to remain at the
Yacht Club. When the water taxi drivers arrived at the
AYC, we told them they should go to the police station
if they wanted to make a complaint, because we did
not believe we owed them US$10,000.
A meeting was then arranged with a judge, police,
Customs, ....... .i, .. and two representatives of
the water t ..1. witnesses, we proved that the
debt acknowledgment was signed under duress, as I
had written on it in French when signing it. A trans
lator confirmed this. The meeting was, however,
inconclusive. Having been threatened with physical
harm by some of the water taxi drivers if we did not
now pay US$30,000, I asked to be placed under
police protection, to lodge a complaint for extortion,
and to contact the French Embassy. We were escort
ed back to the boat by the officers.
The water taxis came back later with the police and
offered to settle for US$7,000. At this point, after two
extremely fatiguing days, I accepted. The police escort
ed me to the bank, where we obtained th- ; -- TI -t
a receipt and the US$10,000 "debt i ....
was returned to me.
The police escorted me back to the boat and pro
tected me until the following morning when I departed
Dear Compass Readers,
First we would like to thank all the yachtsmen that
1.* 1.i I .. i i.1i... out our survey at
In case you have not heard of us, we are Koen Altena
and Erwin Herbert, and as fourth-year marketing stu
dents from Holland we are doing research on the
(lower) Caribbean yachting industry. Our main focal
point is the yachting service sector, meaning yacht
storage and maintenance/repair.
One of our research methods is an on-line survey.
With the results of this survey we will find out what
it is that yachtsmen look for in a good yachting
service destination. We have some participants on
this survey, but to make the results more trustwor
thy we need more input. So if you have not filled out
our survey yet, please make sure to do so. It will
only take five minutes of your time and is a great
help to us!
If you participate in our research, you will have a
chance to win several prizes like a Blue performance
bag or a Xantrex power charger. These prizes will be
given away by lottery. Please go to our website:
This survey is supported by Budget Marine
Thank you for your cooperation.
Koen Altena and Erwin Herber
Continued from page 43 Book Review
For sheer fun, I enjoyed "Uncle Percy" the best. It is the true story of an old white
oil-rig driller in Trinidad, who worked and played hard until his death at 93, and
who, for the last 26 years of his life, lived with a much younger Indian woman
named Coontie in an unlikely but harmonious union. The author, Jennifer Franco,
was not blood related, but knew this giant of a man as "Uncle" from her childhood
as a sign of respect. Her father had been Percy's close friend, and she spent many
years vacationing with her husband and children at a small beach cottage belong
ing to Percy. Percy survived both her father and her husband. After her husband's
funeral, the author allowed herself to cry for the first time in Percy's arms.
"Your husband was a good man," he said as he held me. "I liked him and I will miss
him. But he is gone now and there is not one blasted thing we can do about it."
The same can be said of the old days recounted in these stories: they are gone, but
they can still be remembered fondly.
Retail General Management
Island Water World is a leading Caribbean retailer and distributor of marine
merchandise. With headquarters in Sint Maarten, the company has stores in
St. Thomas, St. Maarten, St. Lucia and Grenada and is planning more stores
on other islands.
We are actively seeking talented young business professionals to ensure our
sustained and profitable growth in the region and to become the future leaders
in our business.
If you are in your early to mid thirties, have a business degree in the fields of
either finance, marketing or merchandising and believe you have the ability
and vision to help our company grow we would like to hear from you.
Any experience within the marine industry or better still, the marine retail sector,
wil be on added advantage.
Remuneration packages will be commensurate with skills and experience. You
must be prepared to relocate to St. Maarten. Curriculum Vitae may be e-
mailed to firstname.lastname@example.org
*63 x 24 Power Cat USCG Stability test for 149 PAX
*Available as single or double deck
Fast delivery Twin Diesel Base Price $299,000
NEW 63' SAIL CAT
SEATING FOR 90 PASSENGERS
All new Offshore 53' catamaran Twin diesel,
49 passengers, Base price $199, 000
L1II ..MJ ..B l.o.-il.UllilwilJ.I.I.IJJ.mIJJ.Iid
ST. THOMAS YACHT SALES
Compass Point Marina, 6300 Est. Frydenhoj, Suite 28,
St. Thomas, U.S.V.I. 00802
Tel: (340) 779-1660
Fax: (340) 779-2779
44 1984 Tempest Sport Express
50' 1968 Columbian Sloop
33' 1973 Pearson 10M Sloop, refit, new eng. paint,
40' 1984 Endeavour sloop, Well maintained, ready to cruise,
49' 1979 Transpacific Ketch, Bluewater cruiser, Excellent cond.
55' 1956 Custom Yawl, Excellent charter business, CG cert for 18
27' 1991 Monza, twin Mercs, trailer
30' 1997 Salt Shaker SF, new 250HP Yamahas, cuddy cabin
36' 2002 Custom Catamaran, aluminum fishing cat,w/Tuna Tower
50' 1996 Carver CMY, Cat engs. Low hrs, new electronics
Call, fax or visit our website for a complete list of boats for sale
1. CREW VACANCIES!
TradeWinds Cruise Club operate a fleet of catamarans across
six destinations in the Caribbean
S'-' "" We are the fastest growing charter company,
operating TERM CHARTERS, all inclusive, 7 days
We are looking for crew, mainly teams in the form of a Captain and a Chef/Hostess
We prefer couples that are married OR have been living together for at least a year
The nature of the job is such that the better the understanding and teamwork
between Captain and Chef the more successful your charters will be
Requirements Captain with a Skipper's licence
Chef/Hostess with a basic understanding of cooking
Dive master/ instructor for either the Captain and/or Chef is a plus
We offer full training onsite in the Caribbean
This is a FUN job with great earning potential If you are willing to work hard and
have a positive disposition to life this could be your DREAM job
Anyone with an interest is welcome to apply
If you would like more information about this job or send your CV to us, please
use this email address
or by mail to Bequla Marina, PO Box 194BQ, Port Elizabeth,
Bequla, St Vincent & the Grenadines
Tel St Vincent +784 457 3407 Tel St Maarten +599 5510550
B.V YACHT SALES
Located at Nanny Cay Marina
SAIL 40 Passport 40, 2 cab/2 hd '88 $199K
64' Ha Kutter Schooner Square Rig, 3 cab/1 hd '30 $425K 40' Jeanneau Sun Ody. 3cab2hd Well Priced '00 $112K
60' Palomba Pilothouse CC Ketch 5 cab/2 hd '70 $109K 40' Jeanneau Sun Ody. 3 cab/2 hd '99 $109K
58' Boothbay Challenger CC, Ketch, 3 cab/2 hd '73 $239K 39' Tollycraft Fast Passage Cutter, 2 cab/I hd '83 $125K
54' Gultstar 54, 3 cab/2 hd Luxurious &Spacious'86 $349K 39' Corbin, Ketch CC, 2 cab/2 hd '85 $125K
53' German Frers, Ketch, 3 cab/2 hd '01 $275K 38' Morgan 38 CC, Sloop, 2 cab/I hd '98 $99K
51' Formosa Cust. Ketch CC, 3 cab/3 hd '80 $199K 37' Jeanneau Sun Ody. 2cabl1hd Motivated '00 $109K
50' Beneteau 50, Cutter, 4 cabll crew/5 hd '02 $329K 36' 2 11.0A, 1 cab/1 Otr berth/1 hd '85 $49K
50' Beneteau 50, Cutter, 4 cab/4 hd '97 $219K 36' Tiburon, Cutter/Ketch cab/lhd Solid Cruiser'76 $47K
46'Formosa Peterson Cutter, 2 cab/2 hd '79 $119K 36' Beneteau M362, 2 Cabl hd, Lowest on Market'00 $69K
46' Hunter 460, 3 cab/2 hd 2 avail.from '00 $125K 35' Beneteau Moorings 351, 2 cab/1 hd '94 $50K
45'Jeanneau Sun Ody. 3 cab3 hd 99 $34K 35' Beneteau 351 Oceani, 2 cab hd '95 $59K
45' Hunter Marine Passage CC, 2 ca/2 hd '98 $149K 35' O'Day, 2 cabl1 hd, Great Condition '87 $38K
44' Beneteau 44CC, 2 cab2 hd, In Great Shape '94 $189K 33' Beneteau 331, Sloop, 2 cab/1 hd 01 $59K
44' CSY 44CC, Cutter 2 cab/2 hd Reduced- Motivated'77 $ 85K 32' Northshore Vancouver 32, Sloop/Cutter, 1 cab/l hd'87 $125K
44' CSY Walkover CC, 2 cab/2 hd, Great Condition'79 $165K MULT
43' Young Sun 43 Pilothouse, 2 cab/1 hd '84 $99K 46' Foun e MULTIHULLS $ K
43' Jeanneau Sun Od. 3-4 cab(2 hd, 2 avail, from '01 $165K 46' Fountaine Pa ot Bahia 4 cab/4 hd '03 $399K
42' Duour Gibsea, 3 cab/2 hd Well Maintained '01 $125K 460 Fountaine Paot Bahvi, Ownes4 V n '0 $. 5K
42' Hunter Deck Salon, 2 cab2 hd, New Listing 03 $199K 40' Lagoon 4 ca/ hP d LaMetcl ous w ners V '0 $239K
42' Tayana V42 CC 2cab/2hd, Laded 85 $130K 38' Lagoon 4 cab/2 hd Meticulous owners 01 $239K
41' Cheoy Lee Offshore 41, 2 cab/1 hd '77 $99K 38' Lagoon 4 cab/2 hd Meticulous owners 01 $229K
41' Morgan 416, Ketch, CC 2 cabl2 hd '83 $78K 27' Heavenly Twins, 2 cab/2 hd '92 $59K
41' Beneteau Moorings 411, 3 cab/2hd '01 $114K POWER
40' Dufour Soop, 3cab/hd Performance racer/cruier 05 $249K 58' Hatteras Yachtfish, 3 cab/3 hd, AC, Genset, 450HP'77 $367K
40' Island Packet Cutter, 2 cab/2 hd Well Maintained '98 $205K 56' Horizon Motor yacht Immaculate Condition! '01 $690K
40' Beneteau M405, 3 cab2 hd, Loaded '95 $119K 42' Hi-Star Trawler 2 ca6/2 hd '88 $199K
40' Beneteau 405, 3 cabl2 hd '96 $78K 40' EXE Marine Ltd. C-Farer II, 1 cable hd '82 $55K
40' Beneteau M405, 3 cabl2 hd, Loaded '96 $78K 36' Heritage East 36 2 cab/2 hd, 2 avail from '01 $187K
40' Bayfield, 2 cab/l hd, Ketch, Motivated Sellers '84 $99K 35' Maxum SCR 3500, 2 cab/l head '01 $129K
40' Catalina 400, 2cab/2hd, Great Condition '95 $109K 27' Eastern 27 Down East, 1 cab '06 $99K
P.O Box 638, Road Town, Tortola, British Virgin Islands
Tel: 284-494-3260 Fax: 284-494-3535 e-mail: bviyachtsalessurfbvi.com
website: www.bviyachtsales.com / Call for a complete list of over 70 boats
I BOATSFOR SAL
650-1914 E-mail E-mdlnicolal 111bequia.net
30 ACHILLES SLOOP fibeclass,
built in England 1974.
Attractive wood interior, new
cushion covers, auIdlary pow-
ered by 4 stroke 6hp OB, fast,
excellent livecboard. Located
St. John, USM US$10,000 Tel
(340) 277-8884 SUPER ATLANTA VIKING 27 Built
I 9 JEgland 1993,strongandcom-
fortable, good condition, n
52' IRWI KETCH.... ... . ....
3 mass sitcbe far mcno/mfl-
hulls. 16-17 & 22 meters.
Tel (473) 439-4495/415-8271
36HP YANMAR OUIBOARD DIESEL
Tel (868) 650-1914
boat considered. E-mail
STAND IN FOR GUESTHOUSE IN
GRENADA Looking for a multi-
talented couple to operate a
small lodge during our holidays
from 13/5 until 24/6/08 for more
needed for busy Marine
Industrial Service business in
Road Town, Tortola, BVI. Must
I email@example.com FRIENDSHIP BAY, BEQUIA have excellent organizational
Lovely 1250sqft. cottage, 100 skills, ability to write service
yards from beach. 2 master reports and prepare warranty
bedrooms, 1 guest bedroom, claims, strong communication-
full kitchen, laundry, level with d skills, project management
road no stairs! 12,558 sq ft of and cost accounting sills, and
1986 Beneteau51 Nice condi- land, fenced with mature the ability to handle qudity
tion, plenty of new upgrades fruit trees. US$320,000, Term control issues. Mechanical
ready to sail, located Palm rental available. E-mail background with marine
Island, SVG. Info on firstname.lastname@example.org erience preferred. Fx CV
www.artandsea.com. 32' VELOCITY THOROUGHBRED CARRACOU, ONE ACRE LOTS 284) 494-972 E-mail
T-i J J. Email: power boat. 2 x Mercruisers and mulfi acre tracts. Great email@example.com
i- ...I .1 .- .--,- 454s V8s inboard gasoline views overlooking Southern
entines.justrebuilt comeswith Grenadines and Tyrrel Bay CRUISING OPPORTUNIrY WANtED
CATAMARAN ATHENA 38, trailer newly done interior and www.carbtrace.com I am 58, made retired, ft and
1998, very good condition lighting, canvas cover other lookingforacruisingopportuni-
ready for a fc-t --,1 I..-t additional equipment, PROPERTY FOR SALE at Bells ty for 1 to 3 months in the
reduced toUS$ ..':*:* I-- EC$125fO. for more info and Pont, Lower Bay, Bequia. Nov/Jan limeframe. Have
WebAd@gnx.com viewing Tel (784) 528-7100 House and Land. Serous buy- experience, am dependable
ers only. Sale by owner. Call andeasytogeton wth.Willing
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Dispose of your
Who Are You
Calling a 'Cruiser?'
by Buddy Stockwell
When someone uses the term "Cruiser" what is it exactly that pops into your
mind? I always thought the word was easy to define, but now I'm not so sure.
So here's the challenge: What is it that real Cruisers are made of these days?
For example, are multi-millionaires Cruisers, or must you be on a budget? What if
you only gunkhole the Chesapeake? What if you live aboard a stationary wreck?
What about bareboat chartering? How about the magazine-inspired zero-experi
enced, can they be real Cruisers despite having no clue about clews? As of late, I've
been asking. The deeper 1T li the more evasive the answers.
At dictionary.com the I cruise" is defined: "to sail about on a pleasure trip." A
"Cruiser" simply does precisely that. Sounds dead-dog simple, right? WRONG! Some
people demand that real Cruisers meet tougher standards.
I came to this realization partly by reading Caribbean Compass. It's been fun to cri
tique controversial articles and peruse travel logs. Further, the Readers' Forum is
spectacular when "firing squads" of experts emerge with guns blazing, "executing"
the prior month's opinionated authors.
Strong opinion goes hand-in-hand with Cruising. Bona fide experts are every
where, ready to pounce and opine ad nauseam. You find them at Customs, the chan
dlery, eavesdropping on every VHF transmission, and "holding court" at the bar. It
is no surprise Caribbean Compass is also a favorite haunt.
But despite endless tides of expert opinion, defining "Cruiser" is elusive. To my
knowledge, no Guru has coined a general definition. Such 1I .1 ..... .I I fruitless
ly narrow anyway. Gurus worth their own salt would surely i i... .... by hold
ing up their own picture, and that would be too narrow.
Articles in Caribbean Compass do not settle the issue either. Authors never state
what a Cruiser is. Instead, efforts focus on articulating what a Cruiser is not by
delineating alleged deficient behavior(s) and implying that some people are not fit.
I'm sure you've read the plethora of "they are not real Cruisers" remarks bantered
about in Caribbean Compass akin to the following (exaggeration added by me, of course):
Instead of landing at the fuel dock under sail only, they doused that big beautiful
spinnaker and motored up to the dock instead. They obviously do not have the
incredible sail-handling skills real Cruisers do!
They avoided a beautiful anchorage merely because somebody got chopped up by
an attacker's machete during a botched dinghy theft. What pitiful little small-mind
ed stay-away non-Cruiser paranoids!
They didn't savor the flavor of the ultra-cheap fly-encrusted bacteria-seething
street vendor food. They should have stayed home and stuck to reading magazines!
They don't have the guts (literally) to appreciate culture (both historical and bacter
ial in nature).
They ran a generator and air conditioning last night. What noise-polluting para
dise-destroying comfort-before- ... .. i ,I I ,, i -.! I'll tell you what: it was
damn hot on our boat too, but i... 1I I I 1i.. .. .I. as real Cruisers.
They talk about Mexican Tra. I ...... .. I II r erue-grit Cruisers would
never so much as peripherally participate in such immature, impractical, non
They have not sailed 30,000 miles and/or crossed an ocean, much less circum-
: .- T .-.I .... 1 1.... 1 1 h no GPS and no autopilot while standing on
S i i ,,,,i i,,,. I I ii ,- not real Cruisers!
They were worried about crime reports downisland. True Cruisers never worry
... I .. i i ,, li e world loves real Cruisers. Crime is reserved for inept
i ..... ...... i i .. i for "locals" with "axes to grind" among themselves.
Crime never touches real Cruisers with good Karma!
They don't bathe naked on deck. i i 11,,...- 1,ave "issues" about their bodies
and don't appreciate natural God-g. .. I ...- .1 Cruisers enjoy such as getting
naked on the transom steps and rubbing "soapy privates" while people on other
boats watch through binoculars and gasp: "Good God! Honey! Take a peek at THIS!
Hurry up! And please, PLEASE tell me I don't look like that yet!"
They don't pee over the rail at anchor while waving to neighboring boats for
applause and scoring regarding impressive trajectories. They must have been potty
trained at gunpoint, poor things. They are clearly not real Cruisers or else they would
heartily embrace the liberating joys of "fun with bodily functions and an audience."
And so it goes. Reading Caribbean Compass has been both hilarious and illuminating.
On a sad note, I quickly learned that I can never be a real Cruiser in all circles.
When this realization struck, I cried myself to sleep every night for about a week.
But, I am happily over it now. Besides, as the old Groucho Marx quote goes: "I do
not care to belong to a club that accepts people like me as members."
All kidding aside, I have I ..-1 .. ... I I I questions. For example, what
is wrong with the simple I. I. ... ...- .i.'i. .. ,ind on a pleasure trip" defini
tion? What is the big deal? What motivates some Cruisers to "slice the baloney thin"
and concoct definitions that exclude others? I can offer theories based on actual
experiences with various personality types I've encountered.
Continued on next page
gg ANTIGUA YACHT CLUB
"Falmouth Harbour, Antigua
Manager or Manageress required
Part-Time, including some weekend hours.
The candidate needs to have knowledge of sailing and racing in dinghies
and yachts and have the ability to organise sailing and social events.
Further aspects of the position are:
Management of existing staff
Supervise the maintenance of the property
Management of the berthing dock.
Assisting visiting yachtsmen with local advice
Occasional manning and responsibility for the members' bar
It is essential that the Manager/ess as a representative of AYC has a pleasant
outgoing personality with a willingness to work very flexible hours and have a
sound knowledge of Antigua marine affairs.
Salary by negotiation.
Initial applications by e mail please. firstname.lastname@example.org
1 All Saints Day. Public holiday in French West Indies
1 Independence Day. Public holiday in Antigua & Barbuda
1 D Hamilton Jackson Day. Public holiday in USVI
2 -4 7th Triskell Cup, Guadeloupe. www.triskellcup.com
3 Independence Day. Public holiday in Dominica
3 4 Women's Caribbean One-Design Keelboat Championship, St. Maarten.
St. Maarten Yacht Club/Lagoon Sailboat Rentals, (599)-543-6469,
4 Community Service Day. Public holiday in Dominica
4 18th West Marine Caribbean 1500 sets sail from Hampton, VA to Tortola.
5- 11 Triangle Emeraude Rally, Guadeloupe/Dominica.
6 Constitution Day. Public holiday in Dominican Republic
8 16 Heineken Aruba Catamaran Regatta. www.arubaregatta.com
9- 11 St. Thomas Radiology Womens Regatta & Tennis Tournament, St. Thomas,
USVI. St. Thomas Yacht Club (STYC), tel (340) 775-6320,
10 12 North Sound and Back Race, BVI. Royal British Virgin Islands Yacht Club
(RBVIYC), tel (284) 494-3286, fax (284) 494-6117, www.rbviyc.net
11 Armistice Day. Public holiday in French West Indies and BVI
11 St. Maarten Day. Public holiday in St. Maarten
12 Veterans' Day. Public holiday in Puerto Rico and USVI
12 16 Golden Rock Regatta, St. Maarten/Statia. www.goldenrockregatta.com
14- 17 Carriacou Sailing Series. Trinidad & Tobago Sailing Assn. (TTSA),
tel (868) 634-4210/4519, fax (868) 634-4376, email@example.com,
16 Statia Day. Public holiday in Statia
17 BVI Schools Regatta, RBVIYC
17 18 Nanny Cay Nations Cup,Tortola. www.racinginparadise.com
19 Discovery Day. Public holiday in Puerto Rico
22 US Thanksgiving Day. Public holiday in Puerto Rico and USVI
23 25 Course de L'Alliance Regatta, St. Maarten/St. Barths/Anguilla.
24 FULL MOON
24 Round Tortola Race. RBVIYC
25 ARC 2007 sets sail from Las Palmas de Gran Canaria to St. Lucia.
30 Independence Day. Public holiday in Barbados
TBA One Man, One Woman, One Boat Race, Martinique.
TBA 9th Annual Wahoo Tournament, Havana, Cuba. Club Nautico Intl.
Hemingway (CNIH), tel (537) 204-1689, fax (537) 204-6653,
1 -2 17th Wilmerding Memorial Challenge Regatta, BVI. West End Yacht Club
(WEYC), Tortola, tel (284) 495 1002, fax (284) 495-4184,
3 -7 MYBA St. Maarten Charter Show. www.mybacaribbeanshow.com
5 Saba Day. Public holiday in Saba
5 10 46th Antigua Charter Yacht Meeting. www.antiguayachtshow.com
5- 12 Chanukah
9 National Heroes Day. Public holiday in Antigua
15 Kngdom Day. Public holiday in St. Maarten
15 Commodore's Cup Race, BVI. RBVIYC
16 18 St. John Christmas Music Festival, USVI
16-24 Nine Mornings Celebrations, St. Vincent. www.svgtourism.com
19 Separation Day. Public holiday in Anguilla
21 Winter Solstice
21 23 Carriacou Parang Festival. firstname.lastname@example.org
23 24 Coral Bay Thanksgiving Regatta, St. John, USVI. www.skinnylegs.com
24 FULL MOON
24 1 Jan St. Kitts Carnival
25 Christmas Day. Public holiday in many places
26 Boxing Day. Public holiday in many places
26 Triumph of the Revolution Nautical Festival, Havana, Cuba. CNIH
26 1 Jan St. Croix USVI Festival
29 Merry Christmas Race, Havana, Cuba. CNIH
31 Festival Day. Public holiday in Montserrat
31 Nelson's Pursuit Race, Antigua. Antigua Yacht Club (AYC),
tel/fax (268) 460-1799, email@example.com,
31 St. Barts New Year's Eve Regatta
TBA Sir John Compton Race, St. Lucia to Martinique and back.
St. Lucia Yacht Club (SLYC), tel (758) 452-8350,
All information was correct to the best of our knowledge
at the time this issue of Compass went to press but plans change,
so please contact event organizers directly for confirmation.
If you would like a nautical or tourism event listed FREE in our calendar,
please send the name and date(s) of the event
and the name and contact information of the organizing body to
Continued from previous page
First, there are the "competitors". They are unmistakably out to prove something
by cruising. They are ingenious at turning conversations so as to inform you that
they are superior expert Cruisers sailing the best cruising boat. They don't want
friends; they want audiences. They clearly reserve the label "real Cruiser" for them
selves (and clones). They don't compliment anyone else and never praise other boats.
Personally, I -n-'t iN .i;- ---- ...yone could perceive that cruising is, of all
i..... a comp( 1.1. .. I, 1. i. kre they constitutionally incapable of turning
, at race" : ... .1 i I. I 1, I I to earn respect in prior careers? It's as if the
Mad World (that we all supposedly left behind) snuck onto their boat and is a per
Another voice emanates from "sour grapes" types. If anybody has anything ..
or better, they automatically declare that those spoiled jerks aren't real Cruiser-
we have on board is a bucket and a flashlight; real Cruisers only need one flashlight.
People with two flashlights are not real Cruisers.
Of course, not all minimalist Cruisers feel that way. For a few, though, hardship
and jealousy make a potent mix that eclipses their ability to accept more fortunate
folks as real Cruisers too. I admire those who dare to cruise in small boats on pen
nies a day. Their sheer tenacity commands respect. Nonetheless, they alone do not
represent the entire universe o0 I ., .....I Cruisers.
A third voice comes from the .. i redentialed" Cruisers. To be ....
their eyes, you must have all the right certificates and the right burgee ,,. ,
your spreaders, or else you're just a dummy on a boat. You have not earned the title
of Cruiser. More important, you have not been voted on by them.
When I first started cruising, I was stunned to find a few people out here careful
ly tilting their noses up at just the right angle, like olfactory sextants continually
marking the zenith .i'. .. ii ....... superiority.
Last but not least, I1 . I .. 1. .. .. "adrenaline junkies" who get their kicks
t --- t-lin~ - -n the outer limits of caution and common sense. They love the
,,I 1 i ,, 1i .i .,. -ure, they are real Cruisers too. But, the only expressions they
i i i... "real lucky" and "real dumb" depending, of course, on the out
come of their latest stunt.
Shifting gears now, lets get back to the issue: generally defining "Cruiser". After
shooting my mouth off, it would be ludicrous for me not to offer my thoughts.
It is my steadfast opinion that there is a solitary hurdle to becoming a real Cruiser:
in-int th lines in earnest on Day One. You say good-bye to a previous shoreside
I i .i I liquidated with no easy way back). At some certain moment you look
back and see your home port disappear over the horizon behind you. Sheer uncer
tainty rests upon the horizon ahead of you. Nonetheless, you stay the course. That
is the moment that you cross the line and become a real Cruiser.
It took a lot more guts to sell my home, liquidate a successful career mid-stream,
and depart the comfort zone of a well established shoreside life than it took there
after to face big waves, reef sails in midnight squalls, and suffer occasionally nasty
Being predisposed toward c ....... I I I ii ,,, 11, Isay that if you are beset with
an indelible, irrepressible dr .... I .. i... ... I you sense a genuine kinship
with all other people afflicted with an insane and tragic yet wonderful and magic love
of boats and the sea, then you are surely a Cruiser for whom destiny simply waits.
My layman's opinions are romantic, I know. True-grit circumnavigators, know it alls,
and voyaging experts are scoffing right now in utter disgust at my syrupy notions. But
before you i'' 1 irshly, hold on a second. I might just be in good company.
Joshua I ...- account of setting sail aboard Spray in 1895 demonstrates that
at the very inception of his adventures a magical transformation occurred within him
"I had resolved on a voyage around the world, and as the wind on the morning of
April24, 1895 was fair, at noon I- 1, 1 .. 1. ...lling pulse beat high in me.
My step was light on deck in the ... i1 i1 1 ,i .. i be no turning back, and
that I was engaging in an adventure the meaning of which I 1. 1 .... i i "
Captain Slocum's remarks may help augment the modern I. i. .... I 1,,,,, ,, of
"cruise" as follows: to sail about on a pleasure trip... having resolved at the outset to
undertake the adventure with no turning back.
Hey, that's not too bad. But what do I know? I'm no expert.
So far, I've asked 50 people in the fleet to define "real Cruiser" and I have heard 50
different answers. One crotchety old salt didn't miss a beat, saying simply: "Not you."
Go ahead and laugh, I can take it.
After ruminating about all of this further, it seems to me it would help if people
would stop using the term "real Cruiser" as vague shorthand for extensive personal
resumes. For example, maybe you have mastered celestial navigation, or you have
,,,i 1;.1, 1 .' .' r .' r .ail handling during oceanic passages. Those things are
Si i'i ... I' -i' .... but they should not be used to define what a real
Cruiser is or is not.
Make no mistake; I am not advocating that amazir. - ll h-ildl- nr--nih-"
or unappreciated. I greatly respect --'.1 h.;t;;l- t- I. .. .... ....1..1 ,11. .,
superior to mine, and rightly so. l.II I.... .ng, however, is that no level of
achievement, however great, entitles anyone to belittle others out here facing the
same seas with lesser skills. Green as they may be, they had the guts to come out
here and they are surely real Cruisers too.
All the same, I ... -.ii ... i,,.. I i. I .- ct general definition of "Cruiser" fash
ioned by Cruisers I ....- I .. ..I i 1 to submit a "Real Cruiser" definition,
or learn more about me and my adventures, see my website www.indigomoon.us.
Finally, many thanks to all of you who have appeared in Caribbean Compass and
risked sharing your strongly worded opinions with all of us over the years, despite a
guaranteed date with destiny at the hands of next month's I. ,.. i, i
By the way, could somebody please loan me a cigarette ar. I I
Buddy Stockwelland his wife Melissa are cruising the Cribbean aboardS/V Indigo Moon.
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Prices may vary in St. Thomas, St. Lucia and Grenada as a result of customs charges and environmental levies.