A LA%. \ k l
See story on page 24
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We reported in last month's Compass that legislation had been passed requiring
"all" air and sea carriers including yachts to submit passenger information in
advance when arriving at, and departing from, each of ten Caribbean Common
Market (CARICOM) member states. Participating countries are Jamaica, Antigua &
Barbuda, St. Kitts & Nevis, Dominica, Barbados, St. Lucia, St. Vincent & the
Grenadines, Grenada, Trinidad & Tobago and Guyana.
As this issue of Compass is ready to go to press, with articles on pages 6 and 19
about the electronic Advance Passenger Information System (APIS), the difficulties it
presents for individual yachts, and its enforcement's possible negative impact on
the Eastern Caribbean's yachting industry as a whole, we have just received news
from Sharon Mclntosh, Manager of the Caribbean Marine Association.
Sharon reports that the Director and the Compliance Manager of CARICOM's
Implementation Agency for Crime and Security will be meeting soon with officers
and members of the Caribbean Marine Association to discuss the needs of the
yachting community regarding APIS.
We will have a report on the outcome of that meeting in the November
issue of Compass.
New Extension Fee for Grenada
Yachting visitors to Grenada are currently being granted an initial stay of one
month by Immigration, after which an extension of stay in the country must be
applied for. On August 1st, 2007, Grenada's Minister Responsible for Immigration
signed a new regulation requiring applicants for an extension to pay ECS25
(approximately US$9.35) for each month for which the extension of stay is granted.
Cruising permit costs (ranging from EC$50 to EC$150, based on boat length) have
not changed, and are still valid for the duration of the yacht's visit.
For more information visit www grenadagrenadines com.
Latest Wreck Dive for Carriacou
Max Nagel, President of the Grenada Scuba Diving Association, reports: On
September 10th a tugboat named Boris was sunk with the permission of the
Grenada Ports Authority in the waters off Carriacou, the largest island in the
Grenadines, to become a new dive site. Leading the project was the Grenada
Scuba Diving Association in conjunction with Jerry Stewart of Tyrrel Bay Yacht
Haulout, who generously donated this tugboat.
Continued on next page
r "I look forward
S to every issue!"
I David Hall
I Maine, USA
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Cover Photo: CHRIS DOYLE
Horizon Yacht Charters docks at True Blue Bay Marina, Grenada
The Caribbean's Monthly Look at Sea & Shore
o: 2007 N
No longer a pariah? ...............36
Steamer Days In Hot Water
A Guyana river ride...............21 And loving it!.........................38
IDEPA1 TMNT1 ]
Doyle's Deck View................19
Meridian Passage ...............20
Sailors' Horoscope ...............30
Island Poets .........................30
Cruising Crossword ...............31
r"' I ,I...
Tel: (784) 457-3409, Fax: (784) 457-3410,
Assistant Editor...................Elaine Ollivierre
Advertising & Distribution .......Tom Hopman
Art, Design & Production.....Wilfred Dederer
Accounting................................ Debra Davis
Compass Agents by Island:
.......... . .
i i .-ii i
arbb m" rrn
Cruising Kids' Corner............32
Dolly's Deep Secrets.............32
Book Reviews .....................40
Cooking with Cruisers...........41
Readers' Forum ..................42
Advertisers' Index ................44
What's On My Mind ..............45
S:. T .. i .. .. i i. i . i i .. .. .
i I I ,a I ,,I I h
v ,T ji,,i T. h ,,I ,
- 1 "
dni. nen.. ..avs,
i. i I
ISSN 1605 1998
I C R B E N
SAILS & CANVAS
Come in and see us for all your SAILS & CANVAS needs
including CUSTOM-MADE stainless steel
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Located opposite G.Y.E.
(northern side of Admiralty Bay) REPRESENTATIVE
Tel (784) 457-3507 / 457-3527 (evenings)
e-mail: firstname.lastname@example.org VHF Ch16/68
CHRIS DOYLE'S GUIDES
Check out the features that m ke them
the Caribbean's best sellers!
Full Color sketch charts
Aerial and scenic color photograph..
Up-do-date, lively and relevant te; t
Downloadable waypoints r
& updates on the web at
"Have you got the latest Venezuela guide yet?"
All the info you need if you are planning a cruise!
Continued from previous page
The Boris was sunk near a previously sunk ocean-going tug, the Westsider, creating
a unique "Twin Tugs" dive site. It will be interesting for divers to compare the rates of
marine growth and evolving fish habitat on the two vessels. These wreck dives add
variety to Carriacou's existing natural reef and wall dive sites.
For more information contact scubamax@caribsurf com.
Hurricane Season So Far...
As this issue of Compass goes to press, Hurricane Season 2007 is more than half
over. The two named storms having the greatest effect in the Caribbean so far,
Dean and Felix, both made their initial landfall in the Windward Islands and both
eventually became Category 5 hurricanes (the first time two Category 5 storms
have made landfall in a single season).
Hurricane Dean was a Category 2 hurricane when it swept through the channel
c~amacou s mangroves provide a storm rnae-awayjor yacnrs ana tocat vessels. i ms
photo was taken as boats were sheltering from Hurricane Dean, whose eye passed
through the island chain well over a hundred miles to the north
between the islands of St. Lucia and Martinique in the northern Windwards on
August 17th. Although crops, other vegetation, and some buildings and utilities on
those islands suffered, damage was minimized by the fact that the storm was mov-
ing relatively fast approximately 25 miles per hour so high winds did not last too
long. Dean then managed to avoid hitting any more landmasses until it reached
the other side of the Caribbean Sea, striking the coast of Mexico near the border
Tropical Depression Six was developing into Tropical Storm Felix, with winds of
approximately 50 knots, as it passed over Grenada in the southern Windwards in the
early hours of September 1st. Yachtsman John Burnie, manager of the Nautor's
Swan charter base in Guadeloupe, tells Compass: "I was in True Blue Bay in the
southeast corner of Grenada. Between 4:00 and 5:00AM we had 45- to 55-knot
winds for a short period, indicating we were in the strong southern field of the storm.
I took some photos at that time, including ones of me getting very wet in my RIB
tender rescuing a yacht that broke free and ended up on the pontoon. So much
water and lightning I thought I was at a rave in a car wash!"
From Tyrrel Bay, Carriacou, where many yachts were sheltering in the mangrove
lagoon, Jerry Stewart of Tyrrel Bay Yacht Haulout reports: "The winds we got north
through east to south kept the seas down. Tyrrel Bay is fairly sheltered in these
conditions even with 40- to 45-knot winds."
The US National Hurricane Center estimated that Felix attained hurricane status
early on September 2nd while located about 155 miles east-northeast of Bonaire.
The ABC islands received gusty winds and heavy rain. Hurricane Felix made landfall
just south of the border between Nicaragua and Honduras in a region known as the
See cruisers' stories of Hurricanes Dean and Felix on pages 14 and 15.
* SIR JOHN COMPTON
St. Lucia's Prime Minister John Compton died at age 82 on September 7th. Sir John,
who had the distinction of being St. Lucia's first, fifth and eighth prime minister, was
born on the Grenadine island of Canouan on April 29th, 1925.
Continued on next page
The late Sir John Compton, at center, enjoying the Bequia Easter Regatta
in April of this year
-i :,r ,-,:l :1 :, r,, i,-,r -, :l,:,r, .:1-,: :1.-, .r Lu c ia
and worked in oil refineries in Curacao for two years
before studying law and economics at the University
College of Wales and then earning a Bachelor's degree
in Economics at the London School of Economics.
As well as being a lawyer, one-time labor leader and
farmer, John Compton was an enthusiastic yachts-
man, often attending area regattas and cruising in
the Windward Islands aboard the 36-foot Dickerson
ketch Sapphire with former St. Vincent & the
Grenadines Prime Minister Sir James Mitchell. A yacht
race from St. Lucia to Martinique and back was
named in Compton's honor.
He was buried in St. Lucia on September 18th.
* GUY DEAN
Sailor, artist and long-time Compass contributor Guy
Dean drowned in Benner Bay, St. Thomas, USVI on
August 30th. Guy cruised aboard Cocoa, a wooden
Bequia-built sloop, until it ended up on the beach at
Windward, Carriacou. He then lived ashore in Carriacou,
later moving to Bequia and, most recently, St. Thomas.
Guy was well-known as a signpainter, and his work can
be seen in establishments throughout the Grenadines.
He is survived by his mother in the USA, a daughter work-
ing in Iraq, and other relatives and friends. His ashes will
be spread at sea at a date to be announced.
Webmaster Denny Schlesinger reports: We at Bahia
Redonda Marina in Venezuela have added a translat-
ing dictionary to our website,
for our English-speaking visitors heading south and for
our Spanish-speaking visitors heading north. The dic-
tionary currently has 250 entries, mostly words that
cruisers use on a daily basis. Should a visitor search for
a word that is not in the dictionary, I am notified of the
missing word on a weekly basis and this allows me to
keep the dictionary up-to-date with the words people
are using. For more information contact
Check out the on-line market for boats, autos and
apartment rentals at www.caribbean-market.com.
A new website, AudioSeaStories.com, brings the
enjoyment of books on tape into the electronic age
with ten newly released seafaring tales. Available for
download or on CD in two formats (MP3 or standard
audio CD), these books can be played on iPod or
similar players or on standard CD players.
AudioSeaStories.com has been created by Good Old
Boat magazine as a way to preserve classic tales of
the sea for a specialized niche of audiobook fans:
boaters and those who dream of the sea.
Who says cruisers are cheap? The following Compass
writers have donated the proceeds from recent arti-
cles to worthy local causes: Katrina Kelshall, to the
Trinidad & Tobago Youth Sailing Programme; Sid
Olshefski, to Fundaci6n La Tortuga in Venezuela; Bill
and Bev Bate to the Schools Without Borders
Foundation; Peter Ashby and Karen Bradbeer, to St.
Benedict's Infant Hospital in St. Vincent; John Rowland
to the Bequia Community High School Library; and
Melodye Pompa to the Carriacou Children's
Educational Fund. Your generosity is appreciated!
Professional Yacht Crew Couses
Although experience remains an important part of a
professional yacht crew's overall career develop-
ment, "sea time" is no longer enough.
The International Maritime Organization (IMO) con-
vention provides the minimum standards of qualifica-
tions required by crewmembers at various levels
depending upon vessel size. The 1995 STCW
Convention (Standard of Training, Certification and
Watchkeeping for Seafarers) establishes a baseline
standard for the training and education of seafarers
throughout the world. In 2002, the International STCW
95 convention went into full effect. Since then,
mariners on most seagoing commercial vessels,
fire fighting training
including crew on large yachts, must be trained in
compliance with its provisions and carry certificates to
The first STCW 95 course for the upcoming yachting
season, offered by the Maritime School of the West
Indies in St. Maarten, will start on October 8th.
Crew working on vessels with paying passengers will
need to complete the official five-day STCW 95 basic
safety course comprising:
* Personal Safety & Social Responsibility
* Basic First Aid
* Basic Fire Fighting
* Basic Sea Survival
The ability to swim is a prerequisite for entering the
For more information visit www. MSWI. org.
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Antifouling paints, exceeding the self-polishing, self-smoothing and predictable Antifouling performance previously
only found in the now completely banned TBT paints. SeaQuantum is the result of 8 years of combined research of
Jotun Paints and the Chemical Giants Nippon and BASF. This bottom paint is the industry's state of the art solution
for an environmentally acceptable paint of highest performance standards.
SeaQuantum is manufactured worldwide in 34 factories.
Several tests on sailboats over the past 18 months have shown better results than
the repeated test winner and #1 choice of Caribbean cruisers, Jotun Seamate HB 99.
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On August 11th, Penny Tyas wrote to
yachtbuddy.cor: "This morning a cruising yachtsman
who arrived in [Antigua] waters some two weeks ago for
repairs and relaxation, went to clear out prior to his
departure tomorrow for islands south. Customs clear
ance went according to plan, but he was informed that
he would have to come back in the afternoon to clear
Immigration, and he was given a form to complete.
"This afternoon he presented himself with all his doc
umentation and the completed form, but then learned
that the form was no longer sufficient, and since July
31st it has become a requirement to complete an
Advance Passenger Information System form on-line.
"The frustrated Captain was left no choice but to
arrange to go back a third time to Immigration in order
to get the required clearance to leave the country...."
Other visiting yacht skippers reported similar expe
riences in Antigua. One of them mentioned the web
site address he'd been given -- .-- i- -
-where the Advance Passengec i. ..... i. - ,
(APIS) filing requirements can be found.
Via the website, Compass contacted the Joint
Regional Communications Centre (JRCC) of the
Caribbean Common Market (CARICOM) in Barbados.
We were told: ": .. -1 ., .. 1. )een passed which pro
vides for an i i .I. .. I Advance Passenger
Information to be transmitted to the ten participating
Member States... for ALL air and sea carriers .rri-in -
I I I .i,,, Irom each Member -
,I, ,i B .. i i. i Snmember states are Jamaica,
Antigua & Barbuda, St. Kitts & Nevis, Dominica,
Barbados, St. Lucia, St. Vincent & the Grenadines,
Grenada, Trinidad & Tobago and Guyana. These
countries became collectively known as a "Single
Domestic Space" during the Cricket World Cup
matches held in the Caribbean earlier this year.
By registering on the website, the masters of said air
and sea carriers find and fill out a detailed form which
asks for information such as passengers' names,
nationalities and passport numbers, and the vessel or
aircraft's dates and times (in hours and minutes) of
departure and arrival.
The JRCC tells us that the form can be submitted by
filling it in on-line using the XLS format available on
the website, by creating an XML file (using their XML
schema) and sending it as an e-mail attachment (to
:.. ..... i .i or by filling in the on-line
S.... ... 228-4040). The fax option is
to be used in the event of failure or unavailability of
Submissions must be made according to a strict
timetable relevant to times of departure and/or
arrival, with different advance times depending on
whether you ar- -rri--;n:; -I- ; rtin fr-mi, or travel
ing within the i i. i ,. I i .... -1, pace.
Or first thougil . 1.1 1 I .. tourists
are they really going to made to jump through such
complicated bureaucratic hoops when visiting the
Caribbean?" And, if so, "This is bad news for the yacht
The Problems With Yachts
It's a challenge to facilitate yacht tourism in a single
cruising area with a dozen national borders, but the
introduction of single-page Customs and Immigration
clearance forms in many CARICOM countries, such as
Grenada and St. Vincent & the Grenadines, have
made yacht clearance a breeze. But filing Advance
.... Information (API) is not going to be plain
-. i yachts. Unlike commercial aircraft and
cruiseships, its virtually impossible for the average
yacht -especially a sailing yacht -to state with any
accuracy the time in hours, much less minutes, when
it will arrive in port.
Sailing between the islands, depending on wind,
currents and sea states encountered once underway,
the prudent small boat skipper will often elect to tuck
into an intermediate harbor and wait for better condi
tions before -----lin ; t- his destination, sometimes
waiting days I . -... .1 i "weather window". Sailing
northward in the Grenadines, for example, we've wait
ed a couple of days in the Tobago Cays for near gale
force reinforced northerly tradewinds to abate. If, like
the Cays, one's intermediate "harbor of refuge" does
not have the facilities required to submit a revised API
form, what to do?
Unlike mega-yachts which might have high-speed
internet connection gear aboard, the average private
yachtsman is dependent on seeking out shoreside
internet cafes or finding good anchorage WiFi. The
majority of private yacht owners are going to look at
the required on-line time as onerous -even when the
internet is up and running well, never mind when it's
got the hiccups. [For example, in Bequia, a major port
of entry and departure for yachts, on the morning of
September 21st, 2007, the internet service was com-
pletely down for some three hours.]
Bareboats, of course, do not come with laptops
aboard and vacationers aren't going to take precious
hours out of a ten-day, three-country cruise through
the Windwards or Leewards to pay to sit at an internet
cafe every couple of days and transmit forms. (Think,
there are over 700 bareboats in Martinique, all want
ing to cross two of the affected national borders just to
visit the Grenadines.) These boaters would no doubt
phone or radio the charter company's base to say, for
example "We're leaving Soufriere sometime tomorrow
bound for Bequia, but if the wind is light we might
stop in Wallilabou overnight...." and ask the base per
sonnel to attempt to file accurate API forms for them.
Intelligence sources report
that no specific, credible
terrorist threats to maritime
security exist in the Caribbean'
Pondering the logistical nightmare that API for
yachts would represent, we had another look at the
on-line form. It has room for 1,000 passenger names.
Do non-professionals know the "5 Letter Port Code" for
their vessel's last port of call? Surely, we thought, this
is meant for cruise ships and airlines!
We phoned back to the JRCC to ask whether yachts
were, in fact, included in the requirement to file API.
We hoped to hear that recreational vessels, at least,
were exempt, but were told that "ALL sea carriers"
(emphasis theirs) should indeed include yachts. We
were also told that JRCC believes that all ten CARI
COM countries involved should currently be requiring
yachts to transmit Advance Passenger Information.
This was puzzling. The Advance Passenger
Information System supposedly went into effect in
CARICOM countries from February 1, 2007. But so far,
we'd only heard of yachts being asked to supply API
when 1 .... i..... nowhere else. We phoned the
head "......... .1. in one of the other CARICOM
countries listed, and were told that although they were
aware of the APIS, they were not requiring yachts to
comply, at least not for th- ti -- --i;; ---; "the
system is not yet fully ... .. 1 ....... .i, ,, per
sonnel at another office told us they were unaware of
such legislation. Yachting concerns in another CARI
COM country reported that "There has been no
announcement here about these measures." And from
yet another country, a yacht-businessman reported:
"Immigration here is actually very good at understand
ing the potential problems and needs of the yachting
sector. What we're definitely trying to avoid is the con
fus. .. .... .i I .... experienced inAntigua."
A Little His t:ry
APIS was developed by the former US Customs
Service in 1988, in cooperation with the former US
Immigration and Naturalization Service and the airline
industry. At that time, participation was voluntary.
In October, 2001, the United Nations Security Council,
"reaffirming its unequivocal condemnation of the terror
ist acts that took place in New York, Washington, DC,
and Pennsylvania on 11 September", adopted Resolution
1373: "a wide-ranging, comprehensive resolution with
steps and strategies to combat international terrorism".
Continued on next page
Continued from previous page
(According to www.un.org, the Resolution was passed
in a night meeting which began at 10:50PM and
adjourned at 10:53PM!) The Resolution states: "States
should... prevent the movement of terrorists or their
groups by effective border controls" and "take the nec
essary steps to prevent the commission of terrorist
acts, including by provision of early warning to other
States by exchange of information". Resolution 1373
urged, but did not require, UN member states to take
measures to counter terrorism. Even those countries
with a negligible threat of attacks adopted new anti-ter
i . in October, 2005, all commercial vessels
f: size or flag were required to file advance
I arrivall electronically when arriving in the
United States. A rule posted in the Federal Register
made the electronic forms (e-NOA/D, or Electronic
Notice Of Arrival/Departure) mandatory for commer
cial --==-n; -r vessels, :-' ii. 1i. .. I- hts.
Th I .- I Notice < i ... .i, i .. i. require
ments came into force in the CARICOM states on
January 1st, 2007, with an interim period until
February 1st. The intention was to provide a secure
i Domestic Space for the duration of the Cricket
I I Cup 2007, when matches were held in several
different islands from February to May, and to facili
tate the resultant travel of exceptionally large num-
bers of people between the islands. Although Cricket
World Cup 2007 is long :-n- Diane Hazzard of
CARICOM's JRCC, writes, -be advised that
[although the] obligation for submission of Advance
Passenger Information... was introduced during
Cricket World Cup [it] remains in effect as this is not
a sunset legislation."
Implementation Caribbean Style?
Concerned about the possible effect of this massive
new coil of red tape on the Eastern Caribbean's yacht
tourism industry, we spoke with the President of the
Caribbean Marine Association, Keats Compton. The
Caribbean Marine Association brings together repre
sentatives of national recreational marine trade asso
citations throughout the region.
After speaking with Keats, it is our understanding
i. .ili. ..i. 1. -e ten CARICOM states have agreed
S... i i .. "ALL air and sea carriers", it is now
up to the Parliament of each of these individual sover
eign countries to pass the relevant legislation to make
it their national law. Could this be the reason that
requiring API from yachts has only raised its head in
,i,,, 'And could the other countries still have time
i i m ie their own legislation to protect the yacht
ing sector of their economies?
One option would be to exempt non-commercial ves
sels. If the US the main terrorist target, but not a
country that relies heavily on yacht tourism
exempted yachts that are not carrying passengers for
hire in its 2005 legislation, could CARICOM countries
not at least do the same?
But the commercial charter trade is also a vital part
of the yacht tourism sector. When, starting in October,
2005, it was required that all --==-n -r -rr-inn "-m
mercial vessels '-- lin , ... I ,.
waters transmit ...i ..... i .. about passengers and
crew to Homeland Security before departure and
return, the US Virgin Islands' yacht charter industry
was thrown into turmoil. Their usual destinations were
in the British Virgins. Representatives of the marine
recreation industry in the USVI met with members of
the US Department of Homeland Security, US Customs
and Border Protection and island government officials
to discuss the burden that e-NOA/D placed on charter
yachts and other businesses, such as dive shops, that
travel between the USVI and BVI. Some yacht charter
-1-;r:.- i-uses responded by offering "e-NOA/D serv
S i clients. USVI Delegate to Congress Donna
Christensen told the media, "...we continue to press for
relief from the regti i ..- ...... i .... our charter boats
and charter yacht .
Due to Congresswoman Christensen's efforts, in
2006 an amendment was passed which required the
Secretary of Homeland Security to study and report
back to C-nir--- -n the impact of the Advance
Passenger i..i ..... i. System on charter boat opera
tors in the territory. Although the Department of
Homeland Securit ........ i i the granting of
a waiver for the L i *i.. .. i requirements
there were eased in consideration of the territory's
yachting industry. For example, the 24-hour notice
was reduced to one hour to allow charter boats to
accept last-minute bookings.
Even better for CARICOM than ... i.... .. n-com-
mercial vessels from API, as the i 1 .- I .. would
be to exempt all vessels with less than a certain ton
nage, providing relief to the sub-region's important
charter yacht trade.
Currently, API is required for vessels when moving
within the CARICOM Single Domestic Space, as well
as when arriving at and departing from the CARICOM
Single Domestic Space. Wouldn't the concept of a
Single Domestic Space, as well as the tourism sector,
1 i .1 .i..... yachts only had to file elec
... 1 1 .. I..I t of entry in CARICOM and
from their final port of departure? The beauty of elec
tronic submission is that the information is computer
ized and therefore easily exchangeable between
authorities in all CARICOM countries: the information
would be at hand when yachts did their normal
In any case, now that CARICOM citizens are increase
ingly required to have machine-readable passports,
the time must be at hand when all CARICOM ports of
entry will hav i --i1 . 1,. machines. This
should enable '........ ,, II. to easily forward
passenger data to the JRCC electronically when a
yacht clears out, potentially eliminating the need for
the visitors themselves to do so.
Interestingly, the ferries shuttling large numbers of
- ... 1 1 and forth daily between the USVI and
i ,. .i d exemption from API filing, i, 1,,. Ji
commercial yachts were not. A-rd-linf t- t I I .
Authority Chief Director Willia ... -...... as quoted
in Caribbean Net News, "The ferry boat operators in
the northeast US carried thousands of commuters
each day back and forth to work in Canada.... That
group had a strong lobby support system in place to
advocate for their interests." In the end, is getting an
exemption merely a case of having a sufficiently strong
Risk Assessment: War on Terrorism or
War on Tourism?
A ---rin- to US Customs and Border Protection,
:.I i ..... , obtained via the APIS "will be used to per
form counterterrorism, law enforcement, and public
security queries to identify risks to the aircraft or ves
sel, to its occupants, or to the United States...." The
APle 1t-in: applied in the Caribbean largely for the
.. 11 I I. United States, as a good neighbor policy,
as unarguably there could be anti-US terrorists found
On the other hand, anti-Caribbean terrorism is
practically unheard of. According to the US
Government Accountability Office, although security
at Caribbean commercial port facilities (through
-l-. 1 bound for US ports and cruise ships
... .... i citizens travel) may be a concern, "intel
ligence sources report that no specific, credible ter
rorist threats to maritime security exist in the
Caribbean Basin". How great, then, are the potential
terrorism and public security threats presented by
yachts to either the countries of CARICOM or to the
US? In contrast, what is the economic value to CARI
COM of yachts' ease of movement between its mem-
Will anyone check to see that the names given on
the API form are really the people, and only those
people, aboard a departing or arriving yacht? Even
assuming a terrorist participates in API and uses his
real identity, if a name raises a red flag at JRCC, who
is responsible for preventing the yacht from leaving
port with that person aboard or detaining the sus
pect at the next port? If a yacht skipper hasn't been
able to file an API for some reason, will he be tempt-
ed to not clear in at the next island? Odds are,
nobody will check; most CARICOM countries' law
enforcement services are already stretched too thin
by the war on drugs to make sure that all yachties
have done their paperwork. There are thousands of
l.- ..1... i... country to country in the Eastern
S... i ... i, would the direct (not to mention
indirect) cost of enforcing their API compliance be to
small island nations?
In summary, demanding API from yachts in the
Eastern Caribbean is unlikely to help the war on ter
ror, strict enforcement and i .... ii i I
be an additional burden on I i .. ,
in the countries involved, and it is quite likely to harm
the sub-region's valuable yacht-tourism industry.
As Penny Tyas wrote from Antigua, "How is it that in
a country relying so heavily on tourism, a large part of
which is wrapped up in the yachting industry, there is
so little effort put in by government bodies to relieve
the pressures of bureaucracy...? How can we continue
to promote Antigua .- -.. .. . 1.1,. I -lination
when Captains are ,i, ,i i i i ... ... i.. proce
dures that cannot be anticipated or investigated and
cannot be practically upheld? If a person cannot even
leave the country without bureaucratic headaches,
how can we possibly persuade him to return?"
See related commentary by Chris Doyle on page 19.
[Editor's note: As mentioned in this month's Info &
Updates (see page 5), as this issue of Compass was
ready to go to press, we received news that CARICOM
officials will be meeting shortly with members of the
Caribbean Marine Association to discuss the needs of
the yachting community regarding APIS.]
SP A CN
Marine Survey throughout the Caribbean
PURCHASE INSURANCE DAMAGE
Accredited Marine Surveyor
Society of Accredited Marine Surveyors
RYA Ocean Yachtmaster (Commercial)
Accreditation American Boat and Yacht Council
Tel: Grenada (+1 473) 407 4388
CARRIACOU REAL ESTATE
Land and houses for sale
For full details see our website:
or contact Carolyn Alexander at
Down Island Ltd
Tel: (473) 443 8182 Fax: (473) 443 8290
We also handle Villa Rentals &
Property Management on Carriacou
Write b a athr it 5 yar o si ln
,.ve the Eatr Caiba Srm uroRc
dow hog h islad a- n -
BUY STREET'S GUIDES
Real sailors use Street's Guides for inter-island and harbor
piloting directions, plus interesting anecdotes of people,
places and history. Street's Guides are the only ones that
describe ALL the anchorages in the Eastern Caribbean.
Real sailors also buy the other guides, that have pretty
pictures and describe hotels, bars, restaurants and
anchorages that are popular with bareboaters.
Real sailors circle in Street's Guide the anchorages that
are not described in the other guides. This enables them
to find quiet anchorages far from "The Madding Crowd".
Street's Guides are available
at bookshops and chandleries, or from
www.iUniverse.com and www.seabooks.com
Pre-Season Charter Yacht Shows
* VIRGIN ISLANDS ANNUAL CHARTERYACHT LEAGUE
SHOW: NOVEMBER 7 TO 10, 2007
The 33rd Annual Virgin Islands Charteryacht League
Show is inviting all term-charter yachts, charter yacht
brokers and marine-related exhibitors to attend the
first yacht show held at the new Yacht Haven Grande
Marina, St. Thomas, USVI. The grand opening Black &
White Signature Gala is scheduled for the evening of
November 8th with USVI Governor John deJongh offi-
ciating. Yacht check-in is on November 7th. Yacht
Haven Grande is offering specially discounted dock-
age rates to charter yacht show participants, effec-
tive November 7th through 11th.
For more information visit www VICL org, or e-mail
* MYBA ST. MAARTEN CHARTER YACHT SHOW:
DECEMBER 3 TO 7, 2007
Still managed by the St. Maarten Marine Trades
Association, but now on behalf of new owners MYBA,
the St. Maarten show will once again be held at the
Yacht Club Port de Plaisance. Both the MYBA and the
SMMTA have declared their commitment to bringing
the standards and quality which have become syn-
onymous with the MYBA Charter Show in Genoa,
while at the same time preserving the Caribbean flair
and excitement of St. Maarten.
The Hospitality and Exhibition centre, reorganized to
maximize attendee convenience, will contain a busi-
ness centre, bar and food court and complimentary
Registration is now open at
* ANTIGUA CHARTER YACHT MEETING:
DECEMBER 5 TO 10, 2007
The Antigua Charter Yacht Meeting invites all charter
yachts, management representatives, charter agents,
press and non-exhibiting marine vendors to register for
the 46th Annual Antigua Charter Yacht Show. Yachts
will be on show at three marinas in Antigua: Nelson's
Dockyard Marina, The Antigua Yacht Club Marina
and the Falmouth Harbour Marina. A complimentary
shuttle service will take participants between the
three marinas. Security personnel will be on hand at
each marina to carefully screen visitors.
Also, 24-hour complimentary airport tad transfers to hotels
will be available December 4th, 5th and 6th, but must be
booked in advance through the show's website.
For more information visit
www antiguayachtshow.com or e-mail
Port Louis Grenada Welcomes its First Yacht
When North Carolina yachtsman Fred Mittermeir
sailed into Grenada last month on his 58-foot yacht
Rhapsody, he became the first to officially moor a
yacht at the new Port Louis Marina. Fred and his wife
had sailed from St. Maarten to Grenada and are
planning to spend the next four months at the new
Port Louis Marina. "I feel at home already!" said Fred
as he disembarked to have a drink at the new
Marina and Village Manager Danny Donelan com-
mented, "The yachting sector is one of the fastest-
growing tourism markets. We at Port Louis Grenada
intend to capitalize on that niche by providing the
best service to our visiting yachter. The Port Louis mari-
na development will preserve the natural beauty of
the area while providing some of the best facilities for
all types of yachts, their owners and the residents of
the village. I am excited that we have just welcomed
our first customer!"
The Port Louis Marina is expected to be opening
Phase One of the Marina by December 1st. All other
vessels that anchor in the lagoon waters can continue
to do so at their own risk until Port Louis deems the
area safe by completing a full dredging
of the seabed.
For more information visit www.portlouisgrenada. com.
New Website for Yacht Charterers
Newly launched site TheCharterList.com gives access
to comprehensive listings and ratings for yacht char-
ters and boating courses around the world.
TheCharterList.com allows consumers to subscribe to a
feed for the particular charter they want. You sub-
scribe your feed into an online homepage, e-mail
client or save it into your web browser, then just wait
for details on available charters to be sent to you.
Charter offers are presented in a complete, concise
and strictly formatted way so consumers can com-
pare them quickly and easily, then contact the char-
ter company or agency directly for more details.
TheCharterList.com is a totally novel internet concept,
not just for yacht charter but in the way it uses feeds
to broadcast offers to consumers.
Ben Eliott, Director, said, "TheCharterList.com's feeds
are an innovative new way for holiday-makers to con-
nect with yacht charters around the world.
Consumers can now find those hard-to-reach charter
companies and have a hotline to grab the latest and
best charter offers as soon as they hit the market. The
quality scores also provide a first objective standard
for the industry to which everyone can contribute."
An important feature of TheCharterList.com is the "quality
score" assigned to every offer, which reflects user feed-
back and will ultimately amount to a service history for
the company who posts the offer. Al charter companies
will start with "5" rating: reliable companies will increase
their score, unreliable ones will not, so over time with user
feedback, the quality scores will become an increasingly
useful gauge for consumers.
For more information visit www. thecharterlist com.
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SLYC members, parents of youth sailors, and club staff
all chipped in for this worthy cause and ECS6,000 was
raised. As a result, three youngsters from the area are
signed into the programme and already enthusiasti-
cally learning to sail.
For more information visit wwwstluciayacht com.
British Virgin Islands Youth Sailing Camp
Emma Paul reports: Fifty children from Tortola and
members sponsored children from low-income homes
to make sure as many as possible had a fun time. All
participants of the summer camp were invited to the
Back to School Disco on September 8th.
The Royal BVI Yacht Club is a Not for Profit
Organisation and the National Federation for Sailing in
the British Virgin Islands. The RBVIYC runs sailing events
for everyone from beginners to potential Olympic
hopefuls in all sizes of boats from Optimist dinghies to
S ...... .... .. .
St. Lucia Yacht Club Goes Hairless!
Ted Bull reports: In a unique sacrifice, a St. Lucia Yacht
Club member, a sailing coach, one of the club's bar
staff and the club manager recently were the subjects
SLYC staff member Randy went from a ponytail to a
close shave to help raise funds for young sailors
of a "shear off" at the clubhouse to raise funds to
enable underprivileged kids to join SLYC's junior sailing
programme. MC for the afternoon event, Michael
Bryant, took the floor with a set of clippers and invited
the audience to bid for the privilege of hair-cutting.
Sailing school youngsters took great delight in the
opportunity of styling an adult's hair. To make sure that
the benevolent "models" were fit to be seen on the
streets again, a professional barber was on hand to
clean up the butchery of the excited amateurs. Finally
the manager's wife, Michelle, stepped in and gave her
husband the "wet shave look" to the amusement of all.
Some of the 50 kids that took part in the Royal BVI
Yacht Club's 2007 Summer Camp program
Virgin Gorda took part in the Royal BVI Yacht Club's
seven-week 2007 Summer Camp program, having fun
on the water while learning basic skills and safety.
When the children weren't sailing they kayaked,
swam and learned about the surrounding mangroves
and lagoons. The highlight of each week was the
Friday fun day, sailing IC24s to Peter Island and
Norman Island. Many of the children were new to sail-
ing but all have caught the bug with at least one
young lady saying she wants a boat for her birthday!
The sailing camps are open to all children and this
year Island Shipping and Trading as well as RBVIYC
mega-yachts. The RBVIYC is located on Road Reef,
Tortola with a year-round watersports programme,
social programme and restaurant.
For more information contact emma@rbviyc com.
7th Edition of Guadeloupe's Triskell Cup
On the 2nd, 3rd and 4th of November, the 7th edition
of the now famous Triskell Cup will take place in
In 2006, 83 teams representing almost 600 sailors
aboard boats ranging from a Sun Fast 37 to a Swan
63, competed on the waters of the Cul de Sac Marin
in front of Gosier Island. Organizers hope for a fleet of
up to 90 boats this year.
Continued on next page
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Tho.,. r : Il. I : :l ..1 : . Regatta Society,
the winning crew of La Rochelle International Week
received six round-trip flights from the tour operator
Nouvelles Antilles.com and an eight-day charter
aboard an Archambeau 40 offered by Autremer
Concept in Martinique, which will enable them to par-
ticipate in Triskell Cup 2007.
Crews from Nancy, Cherbourg and Brittany are also
expected as well as crews from Antigua, Martinique
and Dominica. Italians have also expressed interest.
Day One will feature two races and a cocktail party.
Day Two's two races will be followed by dinner and a
show with zouk music. On Sunday, two more races will
be run before the prizegiving ceremony at the Marina
Bas-du-Fort. All this is included in the single fee of
around 45 Euro per crewmember.
For more information see ad on next page.
New 'Triangle Emeraude' Rally
Organized by Saint Frangois Yacht Club of
Guadeloupe and organization committees from
Dominica, Les Saintes and Marie Galante, the Triangle
Emeraude rally is supported by Saint Francois "Station
Nautique" and Guadeloupe Regional Council.
The first edition will take place from November 5th to
1 1th, sailing from Saint Francois on the south coast of
Guadeloupe to Les Saintes, Dominica, Marie Galante
and back to Saint Francois. At stopovers, games are
organized to compete physically and intellectually on
Sailors from all Caribbean islands are more than welcome.
For more information visit triangle-emeraude com.
Third Annual Golden Rock Regatta
Bea Hootsmans reports: This year's multi-island Golden
Rock Regatta will take place from the 12th to the 16th
The Regatta was started by Juul Hermsen of the
Netherlands to promote the small Island of St. Eustatius
(Statia), Netherlands Antilles. Juul has been a familiar
figure at sailing events held in St. Maarten and other
Caribbean islands. He started the Golden Rock
Regatta in 2005 with six entries.
We have changed this year's regatta route. On the
first day the fleet leaves Great Bay, St. Maarten with a
short race to St. Barths (13 nm). The next day on to
Statia (33 nm), with the third race to St. Ktts along the
leeward side (40 nm). On Day Four the fleet returns to
Statia via the windward side of St. Ktts (34 nm). Finally
on the fifth day, the reverse feeder race takes the
fleet back to Oyster Pond, St. Martin (38 nm).
For armchair sailors, we have contracted Star Tracking to
equip all participating yachts with a tracker which will
transmit each yacht's position every 30 minutes,
enabling sponsors, friends and relatives to follow events
as they unfold on the Golden Rock Regatta website. We
believe this to be a first in the Caribbean! With three of
the races being pursuit races, it will be interesting to see
the boats start bunching up as they approach the finish.
Seven Sun Fast 37s of the Guadeloupe Sailing Team are
being moved to St. Martin to be available for charter in
the regatta. So far, three US teams have signed up. For
single persons wanting to take part, Windward
Adventures has chartered the gaff-rigged schooner
Passaat. This will give Kaas van Duuren's team on Kate,
the newly-built 1906 design, a boat to race against!
For more information visit
St. Maarten-St. Martin Classic On-Line Video
A regatta for old boats has a modern twist in promo-
tion. A video promotion trailer for the St. Maarten-St.
Martin Classic Yacht Regatta 2008 can now be
viewed on line at www.RegattaSailing.tv,
www.YouTube.com and several other websites.
Gardel Trophy Regatta
The Yacht Club of St. Frangois, Guadeloupe, with the
support of Sucrerie Gardel, the government of
Guadeloupe, the Station Nautique and the Tourism
Office of Saint Frangois will sponsor a regatta on the
17th and 18th of March, 2008. One leg will take com-
petitors to the nature reserve island of Petite Terre, fol-
lowed by two coastal courses around the buoys. All
For more information contact ycsf email@example.com
* CONSERVATION WORKS FOR MARLIN AND SPORTSMEN
Carol Bareuther reports: The San Juan, Puerto Rico-
based Cabo 40, Peje, owned by Carlos Garcia, swept
the Top Boat and Top Angler awards at the 35th
Annual USVI Open/Atlantic Blue Marlin Tournament
held August 25th through 29th. With 11 blue marlin
releases to their credit, Peje won Top Boat, while Peje
angler, Luis Nevarez, released six of these to take the
Top Angler prize and pocket $10,000 in cash.
Garcia said, "In all, we saw 27 fish in four days of fishing
and released 11. That's pretty amazing. I mean, we've
fished this tournament for seven or eight years now and
the bite is always good, but this year it was incredible. I
think the conservation effort, releasing blue marlin, is
paying off. We're glad to be a part of that."
This year set an all-time tournament record with 207
blue marlin released by anglers aboard the 37-boat
fleet. This also marks the 20th year since a blue marlin
was boated or killed in the tournament. Anglers earn
points for releasing a fish, and it is the number of fish
released and who releases that number first that wins
Proceeds from the tournament benefit the Virgin
Islands Council of the Boy Scouts of America.
Left to right: 2nd mate William Oquendo, Captain
Victor Gonzalez, angler Carlos Chapel, angler
Christina Romero, owner/angler Carlos Garcia, angler
Luis Nevarez, observer Rick Alvarez; seated, 1st mate
* GUADELOUPE FISHING TOURNAMENT
The second fishing tournament organized by the
Guadeloupe Fishing Club will take place between
October 31st and November 3rd, at Marina Bas du
Fort in Pointe-a-Pitre. This international tournament
welcomes all participants from neighboring islands.
Twenty boats have registered already, including
anglers from Antigua, Barbados, Saint Martin, Sint
Maarten, Saint Barthelemy, Saint Lucia, Grenada and
For more information phone (590 690) 554 662, e-mail
gm-rosemond@wanadoo. fr or visit www. guadeloupe-
'Optimistic' holiday pumpkins carved by boating pho-
tographer Dean Barnes of St. Thomas, USVI, and his
dinghy-racing daughter Nikki.
Got Regatta News? Send it to
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Puerto Rican Racer's European Debut
Puerto Rican businessman Tom Hill finished third in rac-
ing division at this year's Maxi Yacht Rolex Cup held
September 2nd through 8th at the Yacht Club Costa
Smeralda on the Italian island of Sardinia. Hosted in its
18th year on the waters off Porto Cervo, the event
featured 38 of the world's fastest megayachts. Eleven
countries were represented.
Hill's 76-foot Reichel/Pugh-designed Titan XII finished
iii 4 ta
The Puerto Rico-based Titan XII translated well i
top-three in four races and dropped a fourth from her
score line to finish on 11 points, just two points out of
second and third-place overall, which tied on point
scores and had to be determined by tie-breaker
rules. More usually witnessed dominating the racing
stage in the Caribbean and eastern seaboard of the
USA, this was Titan's first venture into European waters.
Jamaica Tourist Board in Global Yacht Race
The Jamaica Tourist Board fielded an entry in the
Clipper Round the World Yacht Race for the first time
as one of the yachts competing in the 2007-2008 edi-
tion of the race bears the name of the Caribbean
nation. Jamaica was officially named in Albert Dock,
Liverpool, England, on September 15th in a ceremony
attended by sailing legend Sir Robin Knox-Johnston,
Chairman of Clipper Ventures Pic. Jamaica will com-
pete alongside yachts representing cities including
New York, Glasgow, Singapore, Durban and
Qingdao, and the state of Western Australia.
The racing fleet, which started in Liverpool on
September 16th, will call into Port Antonio, Jamaica,
during the 35,000-mile circumnavigation. The Clipper
fleet has enjoyed the country's hospitality before. The
ten 68-foot ocean racing yachts berthed at Errol
Flynn Marina in Port Antonio during a port visit on the
Clipper '05-'06 Race. The fleet is due to arrive in Port
Antonio, Jamaica on May 19th, 2008 and will leave
on the start of leg seven on 25 May, heading north
towards New York.
The Jamaica Tourist Board's Regional Director,
UK/Northern Europe, Elizabeth Fox said, "We're
delighted to be a part of this exciting yacht race
which will bring both the island of Jamaica and the
charming harbour of Port Antonio under the interna-
tional spotlight." Each of the ten crews competing in
the race chooses a boat song to help them on their
way and, not surprisingly, the music of Bob Marley will
accompany Jamaica's arrival and departure from
ports around the world.
New Sponsor for Grenada Workboats
Digicel are the new title sponsors of the WorkBoat
Regatta that will be held over the weekend of
January 26th and 27th, 2008, in conjunction with the
Port Louis Grenada Sailing Festival.
Every year, sailors from the tri-island state of Grenada,
Carriacou and Petite Martinique come to Grand Anse
Beach on Grenada for two days of racing in various
classes of locally built wooden boats. The weekend
culminates with class winners match-racing for the
title of Skipper of the Year in identical GSF 16s. All
Competitive workboat races are a highlight at
Grenada's annual Sailing Festival
weekend long, music, competitions, drink and food,
keep both locals and visitors entertained.
Digicel arrived in Grenada in 2003 and quickly estab-
lished themselves as a force to be reckoned with in
mobile telecommunications, involving the company
in many aspects of Grenadian life, Carnival and crick-
et to name just two. Port Louis Grenada Sailing
Festival are delighted to have them join the team.
For more information on the Port Louis Grenada
Sailing Festival visit www.grenadasailingfestival.com.
Heineken Continues with St. Maarten Regatta
Frank Hoedemaker, commodore of the Sint Maarten
Yacht Club, and John Leone, Managing Director of
Heineken NV recently finalized the sponsorship agree-
ment for the 2008, 2009 and 2010 Sint Maarten
Heineken regattas. Commodore Hoedemaker stated
that "negotiations were intense, and in the end both
parties' goals and needs for the upcoming event
were met. It is a pleasure to work with Heineken once
again and we look forward to a long and fruitful rela-
tionship." Heineken NV has been a long-time sponsor
of the regatta with 28 years of cooperation. "We are
extremely happy to continue our partnership with the
St. Maarten Yacht Club. We feel the St. Maarten
Heineken Regatta continues to grow in quality and
importance to both the sailing world and the island of
St. Maarten/St. Martin. This is really a world class event
and we should all be very proud of what we have
created together," said Leone.
The regatta is scheduled to take place March 6th to
9th 2008, with the additional day of sailing for 2008,
the Budget Marine Commodore's Cup, to take
place on the 6th. With over 250 entries in 2007, the
regatta organization is expecting about the same
turnout for 2008.
For more information on the St Maarten Heineken
Regatta visit www.heinekenregatta com.
L'4 J o
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THE CARIB GREAT RACE 2007
Feeling the Power
I,/ l, hI I '.rn, n
Racing powerboats roared close by our dinghy the eventual winner is the one at left
I'd heard about The Race from a friend back in
England, this mad powerboat race from Trinidad to
S the beginning of July my husband and I
i i ... Tobago to Trinidad in our Oceanis 411,
Alhambra. As we were surfing along the waves at
about eight knots along the northern coast of
Trinidad, I remember thinking what it must be like
... .i i. ,kiph back toward Tobago in a three
Si ", in a race!
Having spent nearly six weeks in Chaguaramas Bay we
moved around to the TTSA (Trinidad & Tobago Sailing
Association) anchorage. It is much calmer here in a south
.t-1 plus there's a pool to take a dip in on a hot after
checked with Trinidad & Tobago Powerboat
Association website (www.ttpba.com) to see when The
Great Race was to be held and confirmed the route and
start times: 7:30AM Saturday 25th August for the first
start, followed by two other races, with the BIG powerful
During the past few weeks in Chaguaramas Bay, we
had seen (they were a bit hard to miss) a couple of the
racing powerboats ( ....... ... 1 i. 1 i They
would drive slowly .. Ii i ... I. .. i i i cutting
on the power to test their machines one more time. A
colossal roar of -*i.-" ;n-1 ti-y were gone, leaving
only their burst I -1 ' 111 on the sea.
On the Saturday morning we watched the start of
the first race from the bow of Alhambra, which left
from Pier 1, a beach area just around the bay, before
the racers headed east to Port of Spain. There they
turned and headed west for Chaguaramas Bay. Once
- I.... i. I 1. went out through The Bocas
i ......... .-1 .. into the ocean and along the
.. .1. .-1 i i..... I i heading for the finish line at
Store Bay, i ..
We coulc I. .. 11 see the boats in the distance but
the noise was quite definitely that of powerboats.
The numerous helicopters above, following the race,
confirmed that the race had begun. Soon they
turned at Port of Spain and headed our way and we
watched as they whizzed by, speeding toward
ih .... . . .
1. I I Ih l h r I I ., I ..... I i a head
... ,, I , i i i ... I- , ,1 of five [!]
islands southeast of .. .... ... .- here the smaller
powerboats had just . i I found what we
thought would be a good spot to watch the faster
boats, especially when the really big boats came by.
We saw them start in the distance and watched the
helicopters hovering only feet above their heads as
they followed their course down to Port of Spain,
turned and headed our way.
So there we are, bobbing around in our little dinghy,
camera in one hand, hanging on with the other, trying
to focus and track as these massively powerful speed
boats start to head our way....
I can't repeat the language that was used as the
three huge powerboats sped past at (apparently) an
average of 100kph, only 50 yards in front of us, all up
on the plane, so not much wake -luckily. My reac
tion was, "What if one of them had lost it : 1.i 11. re,
that close to us?" My husband's reply was 11i,,,, of
the great photo you would have got!"
We sat and watched as the other boats came past
us, just as close -nowhere near as powerful but still
as impressive. I got my photos, just.
For those of us who come from more of a "nanny"
state, this was a real treat. To be able to get right up
close to such an extreme sport without officials inter
fering and "protecting us" from ourselves. We knew
the boats would be coming through there, we knew
how fast, we also knew what a great 30-second expe
rience it would be, with maybe just one good photo.
I understand that Mr. Solo won the race for the 15th
time out of 39 in a time of 1 hour and 7 minutes, a
new fastest time in the Super Modified Class. I can't
imagine that I had anywhere near the experience Mr.
Solo's team had, but I had an experience I know I
wouldn't be able to get back home in the UK, and for
that I am grateful.
Forfull results visit www.ttpba.com.
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THE WINDWARDI CUP 20071
ACI N' \
stewin' until noon, so no time fo' dat! So de course
change an' go from Windward Harbour round JackA-
Dan, up around Mopion an' PSV, 'round Petite
Martinique an' Petite Dominique, back to ah buoy off
Grand Cay in Windward, up around Grand Cay in PSV
an' back to Windward Harbour.
Dis was ah little more complicated but not much.
Glacier won de run to Jack-A-Dan at de start but de
new main, now short in de foot, had no drive on de
wind an' she fell well back. In de end, she retired from
de race. Mageto-0 den took command, or so it seemed.
But Marie Stella de 2002 Windward Cup winner in ah
photo-finish match race, now skippered by Hope
McLawrence for dis race (instead ah he cousin Ne&l
Ain't it grand when yo' can prove dem wrong?
Prove you right, not dem other fellas? All dem say
e stern too broad, de run not high enough (or
too high), she too heavy, an' so. Mauve in de rebuilt
Glacier go' be too fast fo' dem on de draw. Marie Stella too
quick in stays fo' dem to win so fast after ah July launch.
But Mageto 0 II was ah easy winner upwind an'
down in de two days ah racing' (August 18th an' 19th)
in Large Decked Vessel class at de Windward Cup
regatta in Carriacou, to go wid she impressive win in
de 2007 Carriacou Regatta, an' she is clearly de boat
to beat in de coming' year.
An' she may have new competition. Alwin Enoe building'
ah new vessel in Windward on Carriacou, an' John ha'
another one in Petite Martinique an' Sprat (Pipe Dream,
now in Antigua) say he may lay ah keel in de new year.
But back to de racin'. Some kinda disturbance dey
call Dean took ah little zeal outta de Saturday morning'
Decked Vessel race as it was blowing' a trifle from de
south-southwest an' some good rain. All dem vessels
snugged down fo' ah blow, so no sails bent on, sea
rough outside. All agree; no racin' today.
But by 3:00PM dey were over de start line, goin' fo' de
buoy off Gun Point, balloon jibs an' water sails
breezin', wind east-northeast, den bound 'round
Grand Cay reef off Petit St. Vincent an' back to
S... I I I .. III ... 11 ... only half points towards
(I 1 .... .. 1, 1 i 1,. ic e .
But from early on, it was all Uncle 'C' (Cecil
Compton), an' de 40-foot Mageto 0 II, (built/rebuilt
from de old 33-foot Mageto-0 by he brother Bernard
Compton), showed why she won in de Carriacou
Regatta, after she sail change problems fix. Dere was
none ah dat in de Windward Cup: crew work was flaw
less (almost) an' after de first buoy, it was all about
An' dat was settled early too, Marie Stella getting' de
best ah Glacier on any draw, an' stayin' even on de runs.
Sunday wind perfect for racin'. We was to go under
Palm Island den over de top ah Sail Rock, an' come
back. But de wind north-northeast an' Glacier want de
foot ah de main alterin', so Mauve sewin' an' Power
Above: Cecil 'Uncle C' Compton ofMageta-0 with the
Left: Sunday morning start of the Windward Cup
regatta. From left: Glacier, Marie Stella and Mageta-0
almost caught Mageto-0 at de upwind corner above
PSV: when dey didn't mek it, race done, as Mageto is
ah reaching' machine an' has an awesome kite when it
working' good. One last, desperate tack to de left off
PSV, hopin' fo' ah shift, was a header and Hope's
hopes were done.
In de Small Decked Vessel class, Little Pin was de
winner in both races, de first skippered by Hope, de
Sunday race by Neg. De Sunday race was shortened
from de large class as de Saturday race finish after
dark fall, delayin' de process ah de t'ree Ds: dinin',
drinking' an' dancin'!
Sunday also had plenty two-bows an' small stem
boats, dem last from Petite Martinique where ah large
class ah dese getting' started, wicked little things and
fun too much! Clinton DeRoche's Now For Now tie fo'
first in de stern boat class. An' it was Andy Deroche's
Tintey from Petite Martinique in de two-bows,.
An' de prizes, Oh God, an' de good food an' music an'
de dancin' an' celebration' was another great Windward
Cup regatta, as usual, "de bes' yet!"
Yacht at Rest, M ind at Ease PortEverglades
* La Rochelle
DYT USA DYT Newport R.I. DYT Representative Martinique WORLD CLASS YACHT LOGISTICS
Telephone: + 1 954-525-8707 Telephone: +1 401 439 6377 Telephone: + 596 596 7415 07
firstname.lastname@example.org Email email@example.com firstname.lastname@example.org WWW.YACH T-TRANSPORT. COM
IT'S MUCH MORE
THAN A MARINA: IT'S HOME!
Over and over again our guests refer to our marina as their "Home"!
Join us this summer and continue to enjoy the hospitality.
S24 hour security
120 concrete slip berths
SElectricity: 220V/ 50amp; 110V/300amps
(single phase and three phase)
Fuel dock and bunkering
Free satellite TV at each slip
SWireless internet, banks and laundry within the complex
Pick-up and drop-off from major supermarkets
We monitor VHF channels 16 & 79A (alpha American system)
P.O. Box 4540, Airport Road, Sint Maarten, N.A., Caribbean
Tel: 599-5442309 Fax: 599-5443378
Visit our website: www.sbmarina.biz E-mail: email@example.com
VIRGIN GORDA YACHT HARBOUR
Virgin Gori t
".Mr- I \ Full Service Marina Facility
Our facility located in the heart of beautiful Virgin Gorda comprises
a 111-slip marina and a boatyard with 12 acres of dry storage space
offering insurance approved hurricane pits to secure your vessel
during hurricane season.
Onsite amenities and services include a bank/ATM, a supermarket,
chandlery, restaurant, bakery, clothing store, dive shop, phone and
fax facilities, free wireless internet access, fuel, water and ice,
laundry facilities, and an office of the BVI Tourist Board all in
a pristine and relaxing environment BVI Customs and immigration
located within convenient walking distance.
Tel: 284 495-5500 Fax: 284 495-5706
284 495-5318 284 495-5685
VHF Ch: 16
Hurricane Dean, Martinique
Leaving Tixi Lixi
by Lorna Rudkin
We began to take the hurricar'- .i---n, -ri-.-ly following a weather check on
www.caribwx.com on the 10th ol .....-.i _.***- ihe signs were perfect for a large
hurricane to form off the coast c i, i .. .... .. was likely to be in its path.
Andy Pell and I live aboard our 43-foot ketch, Txi Lixi, and were anchored at Pointe
du Bout in Fort de France Bay.
On August 12th we decided to tie onto a buoy in the bay at Lamentin which was
offered to us by a fellow yachty, Richard. Our motor stopped working on the way so
1 .. 1 4 tonnes of Tix the last mile by dinghy and moored on a temporary buoy
Monday, August 13th, was spent tying onto a hurricane-proof buoy chained to a
three-ton concrete block. Richard's boat was secured to a nearby buoy.
Tuesday, August 14th saw us listening very carefully to Chris Parker, who broad
casts regularly on SSB channel 8137 in addition to the caribwx website and other
channels suited to different radios. Chris was now stating that Tropical Storm Dean
would almost certainly hit Martinique on Friday August 17th.
We spent three days clearing everything from the topsides of Tixi Li except the
standing rigging and the dinghy which we tied onto the deck.
By Thursday many yachties were taking the storm, now upgraded to Hurricane
Dean, seriously and many boatowners started stripping their topsides. More yachts
arrived in the bay and tucked into th- mn-. "-
We left Tid and Richard's boat to .. i -1 ... I ..I with Richard, to stay in Gros
Morne which is in the middle of Martinique.
likely to be in
The evening of the 16th was calm and restful and Andy and I stayed with friends
next door to Richard in a beautiful, old, wooden Martiniquaise house.
Just after midnight on the 17th the wind and rain started and Hurricane Dean had
During the night the wind reached speeds in excess of 220 kilometers an hour (120
knots). The house never even creaked during the six-hour battering but we heard
trees crashing to the ground over the terrible noise of the wind. The dogs were very
alarmed and barked, constantly, at the continuing noise of trees and branches being
By 6:00AM silence returned and we looked out onto a changed scene. Every tree
seemed to have been chopped off at about 20 feet, and many had uprooted. It was
impossible to reach the road without first hacking a path with a machete.
Power lines were down and the electricity was off. Initial reports on our bat
tery radio stated that no one had been killed in Martinique but the devastation
Roads were blocked and the rain was torrential all day and there was an edict
against people leaving their homes.
The next day the roads had been opened and we drove to Lamentin Bay to check
on the boats.
Everything had changed. Almost every buoy had moved including our three-ton
lump which had shifted about a boat ... I.
Most genoas, not taken down, were 1 ., i ,. in shreds and 16 yachts lay at vary
ing angles on the sand and rocks around the bay.
Tix Lix was floating but very scratched and, the buoy having moved, was now rub
bing against the still-standing rigging of an old wreck. Other boats had been tied
onto Tid Lix by a diver who was swimming around during Dean. Many had hit her
as they'd moved westwards.
The stripped-down Duogen generator had broken off at the mounting bracket and
was hanging by its securing lines. Now i. i .. .... ... i .... i,
rating power, butwe did have ayacht, i i I I .. I ... .... I i .... ..
Richard's yacht had blown onto the opposite bank complete with his mooring
which weighed a ton where her keel had wedged between rocks.
Fifty-eight boats were aground in the Fort de France Bay and, island-wide, 250
boats required salvaging.
The insurance assessors had arrived, from Guadeloupe, by the Sunday and with
in four days Richard's boat had been refloated by a salvaging company using lifting
bags, driven to Marin, hauled and checked for damage. An initial check by Richard
and Andy suggested that all stanchions, pulpit and pushpit needed replacing as did
the bent keel, rudder and rudder-post. Additionally the rocks had caused much sur
face damage, but Richard's boat was dry inside.
Within a week of Dean, ten of the grounded yachts in Lamentin Bay had been
recovered. The Sea Rescue boat of the French Emergency Services arrived to pull
a 40-foot yacht off the sand. Straps were put around the keel and she was dragged
off with a quick tilt to port, a spin of about 160 degrees and some terrible groans,
but she floated and was last seen rafted onto the lifeboat making its way to Fort
It's now one week after Dean. We moved back onto Ti7 four days after the storm
and the engine is now working as is the Duogen, which was welded in Fort de France
within a day of being taken in.
We've moved back to Pointe du Bout and the island is slowly returning to normal.
by John Rowland
August 13th, 2007: We've begun to watch Dean and realize we have delayed in
St. Lucia too long. The reasons we are still here are many. We could run but we have
no sails. The new sails are due into Customs today, about a week late.
Everyone in Rodney Bay Marina is talking about Dean but the atmosphere is
strangely relaxed. St. Lucia has not been hit by a hurricane since Allen in 1980.
Looking at the various weather forecast models, you can make an argument for
Dean hitting any island from Grenada to Antigua, but St. Lucia is obviously at risk.
There seem to be only a few who are taking that risk seriously and my wife Nancy
and I are definitely among that minority.
August 14th: Most people still seem to believe that the storm will miss us. But,
when talking to some of the "old hands", there is concern over Dean's tendency to
stay down close to 12 degrees. You can see the concern in their eyes.
When I check Chris Parker's website, I read a phrase which makes my blood
run cold: "...but I'm betting on a direct hit in St. Lucia". Dean is still a Tropical
Storm but there is little doubt it will achieve hurricane status by the time it
reaches the islands.
Above: Dean's track bisected the Lesser Antilles at the St. Lucia Channel
Below: After the storm: Silver Seas, snugly spider webbed into a double berth at
Rodney Bay. Not visible is a stem anchor
Late in the afternoon, our sails are released from the broker. The guys in the Sail
Loft are working hard to sew the cars in place so they will be ready to put up. No
matter, it's way too late to run.
August 15th: The mood in the marina has changed significantly. The profession
als charged with looking after other people's boats are busily preparing those boats
for heavy weather.
We begin our own preparation. We make arrangements to move to a double slip
tomorrow. We buy four new 30-foot dock lines. We use the lines ... ... ... .1 1,,,
reefing system to secure the aft end of the boom to the rails on th 1 11. -
lines, coupled with the boom brake, will hold the boom firm in all but the most
extreme conditions. We remove the jib spar from the forestay and secure it to the
deck. We start to strip the deck: ... i..... i.ich may come loose is removed or
secured. We watch and mimic the -. ... .- As busy as they are, they take the
time to answer our questions and offer advice.
Dean is now a Category 1 hurricane and strengthening. At his current size, what
ever track Dean takes, it will be too close to us.
August 16th: Early in the morning, several large power boats leave, apparently
confident they still have time to run. The mood in the marina is all business.
Crews are at work securing every boat. The normally light-hearted guys are
focused and serious.
Continued on next page
MLi-9iio r rI, I V .t.
v !ri, than a marina.
Ar Lagoon Marnia l.rst-clas% berthing is Ilst part ol the
story Ntunrrlty we provide full mirinl e*rv'cs5 includiigb
shore power. witrer Fue shower and toilet facilities gartige
removal ice rmechaniral repairs and advice We Iso oiler
a 19-roomr hCel with bar and resaurant. Two pools, a
s.uperrnmar.e laundry. current) excxhi~r.g. internal and Fax
bureau plus loc-l rxcur ions Add a professional.we lommrg
teAm and yOLi E i e yc t htng riven in a heavenly searing
TO RESERVE YOUR BERTH. FO M nTri naS
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Continuedfrom previous page
We strip the cockpit canvas and tuck it away. The bimini frame is secured to the
aft arch. The dodger frame is removed and lashed to the deck. We move below deck
and secure everything in plastic bags which might be damaged if water comes into
the boat. Some critical equipment, like the laptop and logbook, are identified to be
taken off the boat. Decisions on what is "critical" are arrived at through a process
which is far more emotional than analytical.
The weather has begun to deteriorate but gusts and squalls don't slow anyone's
effort. To the contrary, every drop of rain seems to fuel the effort being made to
secure each vessel.
Rodney Bay Marina is known as a "hurricane hole" but our inexperience is feeding a
great deal of concern. Sometime in the mid-afternoon, four dive boats from the Sandal's
resorts move into the marina. They take four slips on our dock and the crews spider
web them in. I guess if you are going to be here for Dean, this is the place to be.
We move the boat into the double slip and, with the help of the dock hands, spider
web her into the slip. We deploy a stern anchor. We stow and lash down and secure
until we are going over the same things for the fifth time. As darkness approaches,
.... anxiety combine to make our legs feel like they are filled with lead.
I i nade the decision to go to a hotel. The sun has set and it's time to leave.
Two backpacks and a duffel filled with our critical gear and a couple of days' cloth
ing in our hands, we walk down the dock like the condemned headed for the gal
lows. We are the last crew leaving the marina. Gusting wind and spitting rain blend
to create a gloomy feeling as we trudge away.
August 16th: The Palm Haven Hotel at Gros Islet is only a few months old. It's
clean, bright and moderately priced. Only a five-minute walk from Rodney Bay
Our hurricane haven ashore, which we shared with other cruisers, tourists and 20
Italian charter guests
Marina, it seems a natural choice for cruisers looking for a place to stay while the
boat is on the hard or any other time they would look for land accommodations, like
during a hurricane.
The guests at the hotel that night are a handful of cruisers, a few tourists and 20
Italian nationals who were on two captained charter boats which diverted into
Rodney Bay Marina on their way back to Martinique.
The small bar and restaurant area of the hotel is crowded with all of us waiting for
the storm. The TV is tuned to the Weather Channel, providing frequent updates on
Dean's progress. The mood of the group is anxious but not panicked. I feel like a char
ac'-rin -. HT- M.in ------- n 1M -. r-.nom full I I 1 .. .. i, i I... ... .
I . ,. ... ,,, ,1. Ilk es o f I I .. I I- .. I. h I I
I. ... -I I I I...... we go to our room and try to sleep. The rain and
wind steadily increase. Next door, some sheets of corrugated steel bang against
the fence. We take turns falling asleep and waking up to the sounds of the storm
raging. Through the window we see torrents of rain slashing horizontally against
The power goes out on the island and with it the radio and TV, except the St. Lucia
national radio station, SLR. Through the night SLR gives us updates on the position
of Dean. At one point, I consult our log book and realize that Dean passed within
three miles of our boat. Not a comforting thought! Dean screams and moans, feed
ing my anxiety.
August 17th: Dawn comes slowly, pushing its way through the wind and rain. Steadily,
the sky lightens and the rain and gusty wind slacke I ,, .i i ,', i ,,,
to go outto thebalconyof the hoteland look across ti 1 i ......... i i
Surprisingly, little seems to have changed. All the boats seem to be in their slips, bobbing
in the wind and waves, masts standing tall and intact, including ours.
Finally, I can't stand it anymore. In a lull I walk to the marina and out onto the
dock. There our boat sits, safe and proud, just as we left her. I can't remember a
more beautiful sight. Other than debris in the lagoon, there is little damage. A cleat
pulled out of the dock next to us. I help ... .. 1.1 .. 1 i,,. i, another cleat.
We decide to stay in the hotel one mo ,,.II I I I ,,,. ,, 11, task of undo
ing the preparations we made for the stoil.. i -1 I I i I i. here through
the storm are still here. The mood in the hotel tonight is upbeat. Live pan music,
laughing folks, celebrating survivors all.
August 21st: The sails are installed and the storm preparations are undone. Time
to head south in the next weather window.
A few days later, in Bequia, we listen to Chris Parker describe a "potential devel
oping surface low" associated with an approaching tropical wave: "If you are any
where between Antigua and Grenada, you should take this threat seriously." Next,
an ......I ..i 1 nada, no question.
August 3IL0h i -" 'hours we begin the entry to St. '" ..... i ,.I
we had winds too gusty ( 1 .. to 20, or 16 gusting 1 I I .. I
ing us to hand-steer in -1.. 1- 1..- is our first time entering this harbor. Tired, we
find locating the channel into the lagoon difficult with the *-r.nn.- -un in our eyes
and the mist in the bay. But the channel is well-marked ... I I I a place in the
lagoon. Anchor down and set at 0730 hours.
We put the boat to bed and take a nap. At 1600 we take the 1,,,.., over to the
Yacht Club complex which houses the Customs and Immigratio, II. and offers
showers, "do it yourself laundry facilities and a lovely bar and restaurant. We com-
plete check-in formalities and enjoy an excellent lunch. There are lots of folks, locals
and cruisers alike, in the bar and restaurant area. The conversation regarding the
developing tropical disturbance, which is approaching the Windwards, is casual.
Continued on next page
Continued from previous page
August 31st: Grenada has a great cruiser's VHF net, with a good weather forecast.
This -n-rni;n however, our reception is poor. When we listen to Chris Parker, how
ever, i'" I in "developing low", although still a bit disorganized, is strengthening
and predicted to continue to do so as it follows a peculiarly southern track. Tropical
Storm Warnings are now issued for every island from St. Vincent to Tobago. More
unusual yet, a Tropical Storm Watch has been issued for Trinidad and coastal
Venezuela. We should have stayed in St. Lucia!
St. George's Lagoon provides easy shopping: Island Water World and Foodland
have 1. .. .. I 1.i I 1 .. Il .. I I ; hardware next to Island Water
Work I ..... i 1 i . I .. I ,. staff has the satellite image of
the approaching disturbance up on his computer screen. It appears to be coming
right at us. The words from an old song play in the back of my mind: "Nowhere to
run, nowhere to hide...".
We complete our shopping and provisioning tasks, return to the boat and stow the
material. Since today is my day to cook, we head back to the Yacht Club for lunch.
A lovely lunch is overshadowed by the images on the Weather Channel, showing
Tropical Depression 6 (I guess it got organized while we were shopping!) bearing
down on southern Grenada.
Back to the boat. We begin battening down for another blow. We set out a sec
ond anchor and attach the second chain-rode combination to it, ready to deploy
if needed. We tie down and stow things 'til we're satisfied. The winds are expect
ed to reach 35 mph. We've sailed in winds of that strength in the open ocean but,
Others in the lagoon are doing the same, to varying degrees. The delivery captain
on a boat called Don't Panic is absorbed in details: retying lines, checking hatches
for leaks, etcetera. On the other end of the spectrum, a boat on the other side of the
lagoon still has towels hanging on a line to dry. The guy on the boat to our port side
is uncomfortable with the distance between us. He pulls up both anchors, which
must have been well set based upon the effort required to pull them up, and begins
a search for a new spot in the somewhat crowded anchorage. After driving around
the lagoon like a Christmas shopper looking for a parking space at the mall, our
neighbor resets his anchor about 20 feet from where he started, now on only one
anchor. But soon, all the preparations are made and there is nothing to do but wait.
Information on the local radio stations is sketchy. Only the bulletins from the
National Hurricane Center in Miami are clear and concise. Tropical Depression 6 is
maintaining course and building strength. The surface of the lagoon is like glass and
the wind is barely a whisper. I listen to the radio station from Carriacou on the hour.
At 2300 the update says Tropical Depression 6 will arrive in Grenada in the hours
just before dawn.
Septemberlst .... I** l ** i. ... I .. i ..... .. earnest. Our instruments
show the wind .i _'' I I I- I .. .. I ... I I w horizontally across the
churned-up surface of the bay until they blend.
The radio update at 0500 hours states that Tropical Storm Felix (a battlefield
promotion, no doubt) has passed Grenada. We later learn the eye went slightly
south of our position. About then, Felix decides to flex his muscles. The wind goes
to a steady 25 knots with gusts in excess of 35, changing direction with a disori
A boat on the north side of the bay breaks loose. Narrowly avoiding being driven
into two others, it begins to circle the anchorage, its captain struggling against the
storm. ''... ... 1 1 11 1 .. .. 1. red to our port earlier, also breaks
loose, I- I .. 1.191- I .. .I the driving, sideways rain. The cap
tain on the boat directly behind us starts his engine and begins to drive the boat into
the wind to take pressure off a dragging anchor. Off to our starboard, one of the
smaller boats appears out of the rain, its position significantly different than when
last observed. The first daylight begins to penetrate the clouds and rain, revealing a
boat on the south side of the anchorage with the top half of his mast furled main
pulled out and flapping madly, other crews nervously watching from the cockpits of
As dawn overcomes the gloom, Felix hears the call of distant shores and as the sun
climbs, the rain and wind, little by little, subside. By 1400, the lagoon is back to nor
mal, with the exception of the floating debris. You can feel the general sense of relief
in the air.
We've had a couple hours sleep, a good meal, bailed the calf deep water out of the
dinghy and determined that again we've come through a storm unscathed. We knew
Dean when he was only a little boy and we were there for Felix's birth. We need to
quit being so cozy with all this power of Nature!
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TOTTRS & CRITTTSES CAR & TEEP RENTAL
Changing Times and Seamen's R&R
The Mariner's Club in Port of Spain
by Norman Faria
And the ship sets the sail
They've lived the tale
To carry them to the shore
Straining at the oars
Or staring from the rail
And the sea bids them farewell
She waves in swells
And sends them on their way
Time has been her pay
And time will have to tell
Soon your sailing days will be over
Come and take the pleasures of the harbour.
(From the song "Pleasures of the Harbour"
by US composer/singer Phil Ochs)
I first visited the Mariner's Club recreation centre in
downtown Port of Spain some time in the 1980s when
I took a round trip from Barbados to the Trinidadian
capital on the inter island freighter Avontuur. One
night, Captain Paul Wahlen and I walked over from the
docks to the nearby Club on Wrightson Road for a
pleasant beer and to make a few phone calls home.
While vacationing in Trinidad last month, I decided
to see if it was still there.
It was. But as manager James Mathura explained, oper
nations have been scaled down. The 100-room dormitory
and restaurant are long closed, with some of the space
rented out as commercial offices, i .......... i
attheback hasonlya sixinch, .. .n i11 I 11
The Club, which is part of the world-wide Missions
to Seafarers network run by the Anglican Church, still
however provides traditional hospitality basics such as
1;, 1 .; hapel and facilities for overseas calls.
i.- ..-- the reasons for the changes. There is
now a quicker turn-around time for the ships, mainly
carrying containers, in port. This means the crew has
less time to go ashore. From the 1940s to 1960s,
freighters from such lines as Harrison's, Booth, Geest
and the Canadian Saguenay may have spent several
days offloading and loading cargo in Port of Spain and
other nearby ports such as Georgetown and Linden on
Guyana's Demerara River. Now, sometimes a contain
er ship comes in for a day, unloads a few containers
and steams off. Speed is money to ship owners.
Secondly, replacement crews are now flown in under
a better arrangement to join a ship which leaves the
same day. Previously, crews would have to wait around,
maybe for days, until their ship arrived or was ready.
There are also fewer arrivals now at the Port of Spain
docks. Because of congestion there in the 1980s, the
facilities at Point Lisas to the south in the Gulf of Paria
There was a time in the 1950s when the Mariner's
Club' ..111 1.. ;.. ;ll. I; ity, sevendays week.
Sure, 1 i ii i i i 1 in those carefree days
before AIDS, head over to the 1 1 1.1 districts to have
a good time. In the process, ', I them got drunk,
and were rolled by unsavoury characters and robbed.
The Club had a reputation for being a safe hospitality
centre where seafarers, including at a later date fisher
men on deep sea-fishing vessels and crews on mega
yachts, could enjoy some good Rest and Recreation.
Actually, when it came to doing a little business with
the local girls, the dividing lines could sometimes be
blurred. The story is told to me by Captain David
Waight, a retired British-born merchant marine skip
per in Barbados, that women in some Indian and
African ports he visited had an uncanny knack of infil
treating dances being held by some of the Missions to
Seafarers. "They (the women) knew the missions were
where the sailors with money hung out. They would
mix with the genuine, church-going, invited girls. Of
course, they would be loudest and most enthusiastic
singers of the mandatory hymns."
Clearly, that type of misrepresentation, which the
lads didn't seem to mind, was the exception among the
apparently well-administered missions worldwide.
They were established by several church denomina
tions; the Catholics and the Lutherans also have their
own. Some seamen's trade unions ran hostels in ports
frequently visited by their members. I remember when
I was doing public relations work for the Barbados
branch of the (British) National Union of Seamen, they
had a hospitality centre on the south coast of the
island, in addition to the office in downtown
Bridgetown, for the lads who crewed, for example, on
the Cunard cruise liners.
There is an umbrella body called the International
Christian Maritime Associatio ... ...... groups.
Presently, they operate 526 i.. ..I. in 126
The one in Trinidad, the only centre in the circum-
Caribbean area, has its -riS;; in the Merchant Navy
Club set up in March I i by the then Trinidad
Governor, Sir Hubert Young. It was a time when hun
dreds of merchant seamen and Navy personnel were
i ., i.. .i the west coast of the island in lifeboats
.. I,. ships were sunk by German submarines.
Some of them had appalling injuries. A year later, a
Flying Angel Hostel was opened under the auspices of
the British based Missions to Seamen (the name was
later changed to Seafarers), explained Mr. Mathura,
who has been with the Club for over 30 years. The
present facility was built in 1956. The Club is run by
a Board of Management under the patronage of the
James Mathura eight ) goes over Club accounts
with employee Wayne Forbes
Among the services offered at the Club is counseling
on justice-related issues. The Club has close ties with
the local Seamen and Waterfront Workers Trade
Union. The union has had to deal with several indus
trial-relations matters in recent years involvir .- ,,
seafarers. One involved : i '" -' i I
Filipino seamen who had to 11 ii ..... ... .
itary conditions on board their vessel.
The Trinidad union is affiliated with the
International Transport Workers Federation (ITF)
which represents 600,000 seafarers worldwide. Among
the causes seamen's unions are -1-.li;; --ith is ships
owners' continued use of "flags .. ... .. ". That
is, the owners register their vessels in a port outside of
their home jurisdiction. This allows them to, among
other things, hire cheaper labour and have less strin
gent safety measures and equipment on board.
Since the 1970s and 1980s, the nationalities of sea
farers visiting the Club have changed. There is a pre
ponderance of crews from Far East Asian countries.
Today, two thirds of seafarers come from developing
countries such as India, Malaysia and the Philippines.
The ITF has affiliates in those countries and the Club
represents their interests as judiciously as they did
the predominately British, Canadian, Scandinavian
and American crews in the early days.
Merchant seamen have always played a sterling role
in t. I ....-i ..... f goods, especially during war
year- I ....... ,i1 i rlII,theycrewed -- 1 l--ri;^
ing :.... 1 1 i ito the populatioi.- .
Caribbean islands, for example. They were crew on
tankers carrying oil and bauxite ore from British
Guiana and Trinidad for the war effort in England.
Today, their contribution is rightly recognized. There
is, for example, a monument to those Barbadian sea
men, including the father of Barbadian cricketer Sir
Garfield Sobers and a Guyanese named de Weever,
who perished at sea during the War.
There was also their valuable assistance on a socio
political level to the anti-colonial and working class
struggles. From the 1930s to the 1960s they con
tribute progressive ideas which they, along with dock
workers, picked up during their travels and associa
tion with comrades from other lands.
It was a truly memorable moment for me to re-visit
the Mariner's Club and have a chat with the helpful
Norman Faria, Compass's man in Barbados, recently
vacationed in rinidad.
Multiple murders? Piracy? Killer hurricanes? It is hard to think of anything that will
i.. I -. il,.. tourism in the Eastern Caribbean more than the newAPI regulations.
i I,, -I I I, .rd about it was through a customer's e-mail (italics mine):
"We have been given the impression that if we choose to cruise the islands this
coming season, then we will have to comply with new legislation that obliges us to
send API (Advance Passenger Information) to JRCC (Joint Regional Communications
Centre), whoever they are. No later than 15 minutes after departure from every
national stop. This apparently is done via the Net or Fax (neither of which we have
"We think we may be the victims of a hoax, as we cannot imagine it working to any
"We do however want to make an early decision whether to cruise or not and such
cumbersome nonsense will be the decider."
These new : ...ii ... which are now supposed to be in effect for all yachts,
require you to I.11 ,I I mg form with lots of details about your boat, the registra
tion, last ports, next ports and more; then for everyone on board you have to give
many passport details i i, I. I .. ii *.. ..... document type, country of origin, expiry
date, number, issue, dI.1 i I .. II I I .. You then have to fax, e-mail or submit
it on-line to the JRCC within the : ii ... I.... i riod:
Arrival/Departure from/to outsi i i I,* * i t- ,j from Martinique) "No later than
24 hours before arrival". Departure "no more than 15 minutes after departure".
Arrival/Departure from/to inside CARICOM: Arrival and Departure: "No later than
1 hour before departure from the last port".
What on earth is all this about? As far as I can tell it is some anti-terrorism move
Complicated Customs procedures
are a barrier to generating more
yachting revenue, so the requirement
that pleasure craft file API
comes as a devastating setback
connected to the USA -and all that data is going to be sent through USA security.
If this legislation is allowed to stand without modification (and I have some sug
gestions about that later in this article) it will be immensely damaging to the entire
Caribbean yachting industry. Hampering the free movement of yachts with a mass
of red tape will make the Caribbean way less attractive to visitors, both those cruis
ing on their own boats and those who fly in to charter a boat here. In the long term,
as the news gets out, it will mean fewer yachts and fewer yachting visitors, and the
bareboat charter industry, .1 I-.....i. .11 find it very hard to manage.
Something similar was p l ... I I ... 1. I I about 2005, and their beleaguered
charter industry has been trying to get redress from it ever since, so they can get
back to work.
In the short term the need for yacht skippers to file API will particularly hit "inter
mediate" islands more than "destination islands" as people are just not going to be
bothered with the formalities and will skip a country rather than bother with the
extra paperwork. Thus in terms of the charter industry, I predict St. Lucia, Dominica
and Carriacou will lose many of the charter boats that previously visited.
It has been clear that complicated Customs procedures are a barrier to generating
more yachting revenue, and I am just one of the many people and organizations who
have spent considerable time trying to cut down on such red tape and make yacht
clearance procedures easier. So the requirement that pleasure craft file API comes
as a devastating setback.
I also wonder about our state of governance. In general, many --' -nmmnti have
been very good at communicating with their local yachting sector i i ... i i the
CARICOM countries in the Eastern Caribbean have signed onto this bureaucratic
nightmare with ZERO consultation with anyone in the yachting industry? I do real
ize that there may have been pressure to sign this thing, but there has to be have
been some wiggle room in ways and means -and we could have produced some
i.... ... reasonable. To throw this at us, fait accompli, is a dreadful and very inef
: to govern. How could it happen? '"-- -.- i: ryone who read and
signed onto this legislation assumed that "sea .... I to cargo vessels and
cruise ships and it never occurred to them that yachts were included.
At this point Antigua seems to be the only island requiring any kind of compliance
for yachts, and many other countries' officials are somewhat confused as to how this
can work. Even the Antigua system is not working well. They are not enforcing the
advanced notice for small yachts, but when you clear you are asked to go and do the
API bit on your own at a local internet station. Many find this difficult and confusing,
and there have been complaints. This is in summer, when there are practically no
boats visiting; it is hard to see how it could work during th( .... i,
a law in place regarding API, but at his point it only applies I. I I I '-
Having said this, I will now try to offer some logical suggestions about how we
could make this better.
This legislation is apparently intended to make sure yachts are not carrying possi
ble terrorists on board. The procedures have been designed as if yachts could arrive
from anywhere, anytime, with a bunch of new passengers on board. The reality is
most yachts, after initial arrival in the Caribbean, sail with the same people aboard
for considerable periods of time. A typical cruising yacht will have the same couple or
family aboard all the time. A bareboat will have the same charter party aboard for a
week or two. A crewed charter boat will usually have the same crew all season. Even
when they change crew or passengers, new crewmembers or guests usually arrive by
plane so they will have already been checked by Immigration on arrival.
Continued on next page
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Continued from previous page
So, about 95 percent of what the API filing is going to do (apart from driving us all
nuts) is to send the same old data round and round the computers as these yachts
-with generally the same people aboard -move every day or two from island coun
try to island country.
There are many ways to improve on this. I will offer several solutions here, any of
which would help.
1) Apply the API requirement only to vessels carrying passengers for hire. This is
how API is applied in the USVI. The '*. -harter yachts tend to have communica
tions systems that would allow them I 1.1 their own API, and the charter compa
nies can help those who don't have the necessary equipment on board.
2) Make the system for yachts yacht-based, not movement based. So once you are
on the API system with your vessel and crew, you undertake to record with API any
crew changes you make and where you make them. Otherwise they leave you alone.
Even when you go outside the CARICOM region, as long as you come back in with
the same crew you are okay. This makes sense, because there is no benefit to send
ing the same names round and round the computer countless times. It will also be
very important for Dominica and Antigua, and St. Kitts & Nevis if these countries
are to benefit from the French charter industry. This way the charter companies
could feed the guests' information into the computer as they arrived and they would
be good to visit those countries as before.
3) For yachts that are not changing crew, make the CARICOM region a single space
as far as API is concerned. This alone would make things much easier.
For example, the skipper of a yacht has cleared into Grenada with Jane, Harry and
Joe aboard, and their names have all spun round the computer. Then that infor
nation is made available to all the CARICOM countries. Unless there is a crew
change, the yacht skipper should not need to do anything else until the yacht leaves
the CARICOM Single Space.
For another example, a bareboat charterer -.- i; from Martinique could feed his
passenger information into the JRCC and I I' from further API as he visits
St. Lucia, St. Vincent & the Grenadines and Grenada.
4) And this is where we should be headed: make these ten CARICOM countries a
-.. 1 Space with regards to yachting you clear into the CARICOM area, you are
I go move around till you leave the CARICOM area. Yes, there are details to be
worked out, such as how entry fees are charged and distributed, and how long peo
ple may stay, but if we put our minds to it we can sort this out and end up with a
better and more profitable industry, which will help create small business and
employment along our shores.
I hope all readers 1 .. .. I ., i .. I .... i .. -1 .. I am willimme
diately contact thei. I .1 I I .. . - 1. I ... st offices of the
countries concerned and let them know what you think (we give a list of the tourist
offices c.l -- 1- --;1 11 those ashore who consider yachts a significant
part of .. I ..... .11 I .11 I I and need to help us get this changed now.
[Editor's note: As mentioned in this month's Info & Updates (see page 5), as this
issue of Compass was ready to go to press, we received news that CARICOM officials
will be meeting shortly with members of the Caribbean Marine Association to discuss
the needs of the yachting community regarding APIS.]
.. 1 I...... 1 i I ween Caribbean islands with a favorable tide will make your
)m .. .. portable. The table below, courtesy Don Street, author of
"1 I I .. "1 "of Imray-lolaire charts, which shows the time of the meridian
i ,. 1Ilie moon for this and next month, will help you calculate the tides.
I I '.".. generally tries to run toward the moon. The tide starts running to
the east soon after moonrise, continues to run east until about an hour after the moon
reaches its zenith (see TIME below) and then runs we i .1 I,, i 1 I .....
,ii. I i i. ,ii I r, the tide runs eastward; I . i1 I .
1 i... i, .... 3 westwarc Ti,,, .T ,,are local.
i ... ......... 1i is 3 or4 i .I Ii, new and fullmoons.
For more Information, see 'Tides and Currents" on the back of all Imray Iolaire charts.
October2007 22 2057 11 1251
DATE TIME 23 2141 12 1342
1 0343 24 2232 13 1434
2 0446 25 2326 14 1527
3 0547 26 0000 (full) 15 1618
4 0645 27 0024 16 1708
5 0738 28 0126 17 1756
6 0826 29 0231 18 1843
7 0911 30 0335 19 1929
8 0953 31 0436 20 2017
9 1033 21 2108
10 1113 November 2007 22 2203
11 1153 (new) DATE TIME 23 2303
12 1235 1 0533 24 0000 (full)
13 1319 2 0623 25 0007
14 1405 3 0709 26 0000
15 1455 4 0752 27 0114
16 1546 5 0833 28 0219
17 1639 6 0912 29 0320
18 1732 7 0952 30 0415
19 1823 8 1033 31 0504
20 1914 9 1117
21 2002 10 1202 (new)
Caribbean Compass On-line
70th Anniversary Cruise on the
'Lady of the Essequibo River'
by Norman Faria
There is a 70-year-old iron
steamer still operating on
Guyana's Essequibo River.
Recently, while in the English
speaking South American coun
try, I decided to once again make
the trip on this icon of Guyanese
water transport, or "The Lady of
the Essequibo River" as I
It was a Saturday morning. The
Lady Northcote was due to leave
Parika at nine, if I remember cor
rectly, get to Bartica, a mining
town 50-odd kilometers upriver
sometime in the afternoon and
then return the next day. There
was alo I . -1,1 ,, the wharf
(called "-1 II,,. ... n m a) to be
loaded and I knew we couldn't
leave as advertised. The stevedore
fellows worked fast, spurred on by
shouts from the bridge on the top
deck (the vessel's control area) "Get a move on! We
pulling out!" -to heave the cargo on board and secure
it, but we were still a little late casting off.
It's all routine for the regulars. As the greenheart
gangplanks plummet down with a bang, they rush on,
some trying to get the best locations to string their
hammocks and get their bowls of rice and other deli
cacies ready for a pre-lunch snack.
But for the tourist like me, and the occasional trav
eller, who cares about the hour delay? Just being
around the hub of Parika selling on a bustling
Saturday morning, on one of South America's might
est rivers, is itself memorable. Soon, we cast off.
It is amazing how close the vessel can go to the river
banks. But the Essequibo is deep. Sometimes you lean
over and feel you can touch the dense purple foliage as
the ship chugs past, although it is actually about 50
to 100 metres away.
Sometimes the course meanders. The captain knows
the menacing shallows and rocks and from time to
time weaves in between and around them. We pass the
communities on shore, sometimes an individual
house. The wrecks of a few ships and boats lay on
shore, their days of service gone. I was looking for the
toucan birds, like those I saw on the Pomeroon River
further to the west near the Venezuela border, but did
n't see any this trip. We heard the occasional screech
We steam steadily south and in the afternoon after
lunch, th( i1. I I ,,. I tie two Davey Paxman diesel
engines, i-,, i, I each, putting you into a
doze. The river is smooth and nobody is seasick.
It is slow going. The passage time to Bartica is about
six hours. The cruising speed of the Lady Northcote is
five knots, a leisurely pace made even more laid back
by the period" e.rnc.hinf-by of packed-down water
taxis (called "- 11 I.- Guyana).
I take a walk around the ship (those seats can get
hard after a few hours). The 126-metre (132-foot) long
Lady Northcote was launched in June 1937 by the
British shipbuilders Ferguson's on the River Clyde in
Above: The venerable but still active Lady Northcote
pulls into Parika Stelling
Lower right: Loading green bananas while
on the move
Scotland. From their website (the firm is still in exis
tence), you are reminded it was ordered by the colonial
government in British Guiana as a passenger/cargo
vessel to service riverine communities. Actually, three
identical vessels were delivered. Aside from the Lady
Northcote, the Pomeroon (sunk I believe) was delivered
in 1936 and the Barima in 1939.
Remarkably, there are brass plates over doorways
with traditional seaman's descriptions: "Staterooms"
(for cabins), "Wheelhouse" (bridge) and "Galley". At
some stage, as I was told on a previous trip with my
wife, the Davey Paxmans replaced th- -riin:.l Lister
Blackstone engines, fine propulsion '.... i' ... anoth
er great British engineering firm. Most of the original
riveted steel decks, probably once covered in oak but
now with Guyanese greenheart, have been replaced
with welded ones but apparently the riveted hull and
superstructure are basically the same.
Up on the bridge, where Captain Arthur Bond kindly
showed me around, the original brass I 1 .I ., 1, -1.11
there. That's a device that looks like .1 1 .... ....
with two levers sticking out the top. When the officer on
the bridge moves one of the levers, this sends a message
to the engine room below indicating what is needed.
Captain Bond, who has been with the government's
Transport and Harbours Department (T&HD) service
for 30 years, says he can nudge the speed up to seven
knots if necessary. He knows the route well and says
we should be in Bartica on time in mid-afternoon.
From past reports, the arrival of the ferry was an
exciting thing. People, aside from those coming to
meet relatives and friends and help with luggage,
would throng to the selling to see who's who coming
off. People have more important things to do these
days than coming to gawk at strangers.
On shore, I stay once again at the HI LO guest house
run by the hospitable Mrs. May Rodrigues and her
daughter. Lot of changes there. It is steady business,
including from Brazilian miners, and some rooms
have been added on since my last visit.
Before sunrise the next morning, I am walking back
to the selling to rejoin the Lady Northcote for the
return leg to Parika. This time, there are numerous
stops along the way. One is at Fort Island. where you
can see the ruins of an historic 18th-century Dutch
fort. We also slow so that farmers can load on their
green bananas. They bring them out in skiffs and toss
them up onto the deck.
The vessel's movement seems more lively now. It is
faster and the scenery flits by. Perhaps the tide is
falling, going out towards the sea, and we get the ben
efit of being carried along. Maybe too, it is because we
are carrying less deadweight, the cargo, including
r-if-r-i*n 1t-sl bars and goods-laden trucks having
It is time for breakfast. Down on the lower deck
near the stern, the galley is open. You have plenty of
choices: fri 1 .. 1 [led egg, or scrambled .. n a
bun. Keep .'.. on the sugar, no milk I the
restaurants on shore: it's the traditional one mix-up
of coffee and condensed milk, though you may order
a tea. You gaff with passengers such as schoolteacher
Valentine Stoll, returning to his Suddie home. You
are thankful to be alive and to experience the won
derful Sunday morning.
i .. .-.. ... Guyana over the years, I have traveled
or ... I II. T&HD vessels but the Lady Northcote
brings back special memories for me. As Guyana's
economy continues to improve, there will be introduce
tion of a different type of ferry system, perhaps the
roll-on/roll-off type, together with fast catamaran pas
senger ferries. The Guyanese Government, Transport
Minister Robeson Benn and his staff, are undoubted
ly trying their best and are looking ahead to further
improving the system.
To their credit, the Lady Northcote, the Barima and
others have been maintained over the years, perhaps
not with exacting standards of other countries with
more budgetary allotments, but certainly with amaz
n- 7- urcefulness and local know-how.
i, ,, the two vessels are phased out, it is hoped
that an enterprising businessperson would take them
over and renovate them for coastal -.1.. .... ours,
dances, business luncheons and th 1.I II .. visit
harbours such as Toronto and London, there are sev
eral of these historic vessels. Their age and classic
nature add an interesting dimension to their attrac
tiveness. We must preserve at least part of our mar
time culture for present and future generations.
So this year, let us salute an important part of it: the
Lady Northcote which this year is a remarkable 70
years old !
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--n" people dream of life on a Caribbean island.
i names like the West Indies, the Spanish
i ... and the Grenadines conjure images of
swashbuckling adventures and high-seas drama. I've
always been a bit of a pirate at heart so, several years ago,
I decided to try the island lifestyle on Isla Margarita, locate
ed in the southern Caribbean off the Venezuelan coast
Living on an island, pretty much like living anywhere
else, has good and bad points. Thus far I've found the
1 f-.r outweighs the "not so good". But even "para
S .n get a little boring at times. Since I am sur
rounded by water here and really love to fish -hey,
why not buy a boat?
All I really need is a small, comfortable fishing boat.
I considered an outboard boat with a center console,
but the tropical sun can be brutal and there's no way
to avoid the sun on that type of boat. Maybe a walk
through? More room than a center console and with a
bimini top that would work, but few are available in
this part of the world.
During one of our business meetings/happy hours
I mentioned my boat quest to my business partner,
Roy. Since this was well into happy hour he thought
it was a swell idea! Lets buy an even bigger boat and
share the cost!
Long story short, my little 18 or 19-foot boat sud
denly grew into a cabin cruiser. Roy said "we" really
need a boat with a comfortable cabin --t
head, galley, and bed so he can take his .I..I.. .. I
for "romantic cruises".
So the search began. We wanted a fast boat with twin
-n (gas okay) and the basic comforts. Thanks to the
i i, I costs in Venezuela, we can afford to run the boat
as often as we wish. Gas is cheaper than bottled water
here. High fuel prices in the US prevent the average boat
o . .. .. i .. I- I I .. . I r tim esaseason,
s ii .. .. i.. i i .. i market there.
Several months, internet searches, e-mails, and
phone calls beyond ...',,,,. later we had narrowed
our search to just a I in Florida. There were
several Bertrams in the 30-foot range we thought
would suit us. So it was time to go to Miami and take
a closer look at some of the "possibles".
I hadn't been back to the States for four years, and
I was overwhelmed by sticker shock: $3.20 a gallon for
gas, $10 hamburger lunch, $5 beer I couldn't
believe the price increases! I guess Margarita Island
living has spoiled me.
We looked at quite a few boats, but finally settled on
a beautiful older, completely rebuilt Bertram
Continued on next page
by Scott Boswell
A in M qu ht am's
After being shipped from Florida to a
marina in Martinique (right), the Bertram's
new owners island hopped to Isla
Margarita. Stops were made in St. Lucia,
Bequia, Petite Martinique, Grenada and the
I t LaLco L'A1 IS
Daily lrs5 o hIe u S an Euro -
B Nrn~ tNT
Continuedfrom previous page
We briefly ni--'l ONE of the happiest days in a boa
towner's -. .... we went to fill up at the gas dock.
The tanks weren't even empty but it took $498 to fill up.
Gas was $3.89 per gallon at the marine dock. In
Venezuela it would cost about $35 to fill the tanks.
Miami to Martinique
Next we arranged to ship the boat with Dockwise
Transport out of Port Everglades, Florida. This is a
float-on, float-off transport ship where they actually
sink the cargo area of the ship about ten feet. You drive
your boat on, divers block and secure it, the water is
pumped out, the cargo area is raised, and there you are
-ready to sail. On our ship there were about 15 boats
ranging in size from 20 to 90 feet. Our plan was to fly
to Martinique in five days to meet the ship and take
possession of our boat. Five days later we arrived in
Martinique, but unfortunately, due to some "technical
difficulties", the ship arrived almost a week late.
Meanwhile we were stuck in Martinique. Now at this
point I'll bet you're all thinking, "How sad, stuck on a
Caribbean island." Well, although Martinique is very
green and tropical, it is also very expensive. They use
the Euro, so everything costs over 35 percent more
compared with the US dollar. Breakfast -a piece of
French bread with butter and marmalade, and a cup of
coffee -was 5 Euros. Finding a hotel was a .11-n-
because just about everything was closed fc. 1
season. We finally found rooms at 45 Euros per night.
Each room had just a bed -nothing else. No other fur
niture at all. The shower was something else. Push a
button and you get about 30 seconds of water. I felt
pretty stupid standing there pushing the damn button
with one hand and soaping and rinsing with the other.
Water is a precious commodity on Martinique and this
seems to be their solution to conserve it. By the time
our boat finally arrived, .; to clear Customs,
fill up with gas at over I I . .11 and head south.
On the passage from Martinique to St. Lucia we
encountered nine-foot seas and 20-plus-knot winds,
so our maximum speed was only about 15 knots and
we didn't arrive at St. Lucia until late afternoon.
As we cruised into the entrance to Rodney Bay we
encountered the dreaded Black Pearl pirate ship.
Suddenly we felt as though we'd stepped back in time
to the days of Long John Silver, Blackbeard and Henry
Morgan. The Black Pearl appeared to be loaded to the
gunwales with prisoners, but at second glance, it
turned out that the "prisoners" were just a boatload of
tourists. Thankful for our narrow escape, we entered
Rodney Bay. Had we had too much sun or was that
the HMS Interceptor at the gas dock? Yes, but it turns
out that these two ships were actually used in the
movie "Pirates of the Caribbean", and are now being
used to take tourists on cruises of the bay.
We found dock space in a nice marina, where there
were hot showers and no push buttons! Hallelujah! The
food was good, the people were friendly, and the
women attractive. While we were docked at the marina,
several local vendors came by selling local souvenirs,
fruit and junk. One very enterprising, well-spoken and
courteous young man offered to do some varnish work
on the boat. We declined with thanks. Then he asked if
we 1 We declined that offer as well. Then
he ,-i iI noted some marijuana. We declined.
Then his last offer was to find us some pretty girls. We
regretfully declined, because we still had many nauti
cal miles to cover, but we admired his sales approach.
St. Lucia is on the East-Caribbean-dollar monetary
system, and prices were better than Martinique, but
were still over double what we pay for similar goods
and services on Margarita Island.
We left St. Lucia after a three-day stay; next stop the
Grenadines. We bypassed larger St. Vincent and spent
the next night on Bequia. Located just nine miles south
of St. Vincent, Bequia is small -only seven square
i vr ULIRueA5 DCCIT DaL O i pr(UJC -I CLt... TLU crUSuLy
into Rodney Bay we encountered a pirate ship'
miles. We happened to arrive on their Carnival weekend
so most businesses were closed and some people were
drunk. Sounds like our kind of island! We found the
local "supermarket" (the lower floor of a private house)
abundantly stocked with beer and little else but Fritos,
which was just fine. In Texas that would be two major
food groups. Prices were high here, too, and there
weren't any docks available, just moorings. We traveled
to and from town via water taxi, and couldn't buy gas
because the fuel station owner was at Carnival.
Continued on page 47
CLEAR SKIES FORECASTED FOR THIS SAFE HARBOR
Set Boca Marina, Curnao' finest private h.irNr hi' 1rnidii to assim boatem in docking and liavingtheM
rLir kLjac. Lkmredi outside the hurricant hell in L-he prolt-LTLd "k'ell 1 .i4 in LL'.injIi .ippi pr..i c -miC.L
u ir,.ol Sp.ni'.h XVlr Bl.i. 'cru Hoci Marina is. consiided S1ru I:jdc Mann.ri i. al haji'tr.r Iui! oiler-
one of the finest and safest yachi jrnh.r.iage. ihc Caribbein. 24 hours security,
.. "- 11 nos i advwimccd dsig on Un Cur1au.
8 I Iltp;'l dJ.k. k, l:glrL-rrTi in HOlland-
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SElectrical power 127 aiod 2201.
s Cable T.V. and potmbk wWitr vaitabkt0
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For infonnauion on reis and IA iii! 'II
call 5 I i' a -25w9 A y
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I. l ... i PL FTITT11I
The south coast of the Spice Isle of the Caribbean is indented with bays and coves Above: Looking west across the perennially popular Prickly Bay anchorage from
1-, 1.1.. 1 .. -1 the area a gunk-holer's heaven. Stimulated by the "gold players" Prickly Bay Marina's dock
1 I I ii i -. when Grenada's capital, St. George's, was the southern turn
around point for the big crewed charter yachts plying up and down the Windwards,
yacht facilities spread to the island's southern shores in the late 1960s and early '70s,
starting with the Lance Boatyard and Spice Island Charters at Prickly Bay.
These was a brief downturn in 1.i.... activity while the People's Revolutionary
Government was briefly in power i- i '83), as yachts were subject to search by
soldiers looking for "counter-revolutionaries" and Grenada's best hurricane hole,
Port Egmont, was officially off limits and rumored to be a secret Russian subma- .:
rine base. But the boating business in the Spice Isle soon regained buoyancy with "
the south coast in a starring role, as evidenced by The Moorings charter company's .
placement of a new Caribbean charter base marina at Mount Hartman Bay (a.k.a. .
Secret Harbour) in the late '80s. = r *g
By early 1998, demand for haulout facilities 1 t such a rate that Grenada .,,
Marine, with services and hand stand space f, .... '- boats, was established in -
Above: At Spice Island Marine Services, yachts are propped up and strapped down
I for the off season and a boatowner's 'dirt dinghy' fids a cool carport!
Left: At Grenada Marine, this handsome wooden schooner among a wide variety
of others was getting plenty of summer love
St. David's Harbour and quickly filled. Horizon Yacht Charters was established in
i 1996 in Tortola, BVI, and in 2000 opened a Grenada charter base marina at True
Blue Bay. Meanwhile, Spice Island Charters had become Spice Island Marine
Services, which soon outgrew the o 'i;~. .1 : t -' 1 in 2003 completed a move across
Prickly Bay to become a spacious, :i .,- I *tyard. For dockage, Clarke's Court
Bay Marina was developed in the bay of the same name with 56 slips. The various
marinas and boatyards attracted ancillary services (such as chandleries, sail lofts,
4-, laundries, guardianage, etcetera) like iron filings to a magnet, and The Moorings' Rum
Squall Bar helped make Mount Hartman Bay a popular cruisers' anchorage. When
*-,'.- .The Moorings moved its Southern Caribbean base to Canouan in 2003, the Mount
-Hartman Bay premises were taken over by Martin's Marina which continues to pro
.. .- -. d vide slips and services to both charter and private yachts.
: "- -Continued on next page
Continued from previous page
Nobody would wish a hurricane on any island, but as Jol Byerly wrote in Hart and
Stone's 1976 A Cruising Guide to the Caribbean and the Bahamas about 1974's inde
pendence-related civil unrest temporarily driving yachts away from Grenada, "As my
Auntie Mabel used to say, 'Nothing beats a -- 1 cleanout,' and now, with every
one a little wiser, things are looking up one ....
Well, things are again looking up in Grenada since Hurricane Ivan's mean sweep
in 2004, or as Grenadians themselves say, "We've built back better." And more.
On a visit in August 2007, just shy of three years after Ivan, we found, in addition
to new developments elsewhere on the island, that Grenada's south coast yacht
facilities continue to expand. Long-established businesses offer more services and
locations, new facilities are springing up, and amenities undreamed of in the old
days -such as free WiFi -are widely available.
Join us on our recent week's tour along Grenada's south coast, from east to west.
We arrived at True Blue Bay just in time for sundowners at the open-air Dodgy
Dock bar and restaurant t.'n;;- ; -ut over the water. The location formerly sport
ed a friendly but slightly ... 11 i 1I joint where you fetched your own drinks from
the bar and sat on ti-.- r-n;i- plastic chairs under a tree. But on this
afternoon, we were : ...... I I the old Monty Python I .i... routine ("Not the
comfy chair!") as we sank into overstuffed rattan furniture under a rather majestic
sail-like awning and were brought drinks by attentive bar staff as lights blinked on
aboard the yachts in the anchorage. At the foot of the dock, pretty True Blue Bay
Resort and Marina appeared to be putting on its final polish for the coming high sea
son. Horizon Yacht Charters, located here (see cover photo), is run by active sailors
James and Jacqui Pascall and launched a new private yacht management program
in May of this year.
Yes, we thought, there have been changes. And yes, it felt good to be back.
Around the headland in the western arm of Prickly Bay the next day, the boatyard
at Spice Island Marine Services (SIMS) was comfortably full of yachts hauled out for
the summer M n.r-r Justin Evans welcomed us into his office and outlined the
yard's state I ii. ,.' storage methods, range of available services and plans (stay
tuned!) for future developments. After lunch at the on-site, waterside restaurant, De
Big Fish, sailmaker Richard Szyjan showed us around his large Turbulence loft which
is capable of making and repairing the biggest sails and tackling all sorts of rigging
jobs. Richard admits that although the house he'd been living in was totaled in Ivan,
the storm brought a sl---r lin;i 1-t -f .nil -ri-i n d rigging work for his team.
Out in Prickly Bay, I I .. I- i 1. .. e., .... i .. the hook with
in easy dinghy reach of SIMS, the pretty beach at the i I 11. I ly, a handful of
hotels and restaurants including the immortal Red Crab (a short stroll), and the fuel
dock and Essentials mini-market at Prickly Bay Marina on the east shore. Customs
Si i......., ,i ..i. I, ii. .. where boats used to haul out on the east side
i i .. -I ,,' ... I II Dubai-esque condos, but the wide boardwalk
in front of them is a big improvement over (literally) what was at one time a slimy
Time constraints prevented vis.i- i .... I I .. i.. I ... i i -land this trip,
but in our search for the latest i i ... .. i- I 1.1- I I toward to the
new Whisper Cove Marina in Cla. ...i I I ,,I ..... i i ,- closed when
we arrived unannounced, the manager being away on vacation, but this looks like a
uittl- '. of a place with a tiny restaurant and well-sheltered dockage for a small
I I f I boats in a location that's within easy dinghy distance of the village of
Lower Woburn (via the Island View dock), Clarke's Court Bay Marina, the Hog Island
anchorage, a proposed new marina in the next cove to the east (Petit Calivigny), and
the new Le Phare Bleu Marina around the next point.
Speaking of which, Le Phare Bleu Marina, situated about mid-way between
Grenada's two main haulout yards, is currently the most ambitious new yachting facil
ity on Grenada's south coast. 111. ... the floating docks were still being completed,
many of the eventual complenrr. ..I I slips were already occupied, and yacht own
ers, crews and service personnel were in busy evidence. And although construction
was still in progress on the buildings ashore, well-established ancillary businesses
such as The Canvas Shop and Island Dreams Yacht Services had already relocated
here. Dieter and Jana from Switzerland are the masterminds behind the project, and
we couldn't help but think of well-oiled clockwork as Dieter spoke precisely and know
edgeably about the overall project and proudly showed us around the century-old
lightship that is the marina's centerpiece. The light 1-i ': 1 r-i i. -- a cozy restau
rant, and on the main deck are immaculate toilet .. i -1. I .1.1. (plumbed to a
sewage system to protect the bay) for the marina's clients. Although this bay is pro
tected from nearly all directions, we wondered what conditions might be like in the
event of heavy weather from the southeast. Dieter noted that during the most of the
year the prevailing tradewinds are from the northeast, and the occasional southerly
breeze in the heat of summer is actually welcome. Nevertheless, some moorings have
already been placed and space is also available to anchor off in case conditions at the
floating docks should ever become uncomfortable. And if worse comes to worst, the
hurricane hole of Port Egmont is just around the next headland.
Proceeding ever eastward, Port Egmont and Calivigny Harbours provided peaceful
and as yet undeveloped anchorages for a few self-sufficient liveaboards, although we
heard -and at this point, were not surprised -that a new marina is being planned
for ..... "I I ie nearby picturesque cove of Petit Bacaye, only a couple of small
ope:. I, ,,,, graced the water off a little thatched-hut resort and restaurant,
although Doyle's guide says it's a possible anchorage in settled weather.
Around Little Bacolet Point, we arrived at Grenada Marine in St. David's Harbour
H-- i iiii
..... *jl j'
Above: A work in progress, Le Phare Bleu Marina is already popular
Below left: From little Whisper Cove you can see Clarke's Court Marina
on the far shore of Clarke's Court Bay
and took the opportunity for a good look at the wide variety of ves
sels hauled out and well strapped down for the off season, before
tucking into a generous West Indian Saturday lunch of barbecued
ribs with rice and peas, macaroni pie, ground provisions and salad
at the boatyard's beach-side bar/restaurant. It felt indulgent to
linger, swigging an icy Carib or two, while a boatowner worked on
his hull nearby in the noonday sun, apparently unaware, or
uncaring, that this was the Emancipation holiday weekend.
Several cruising boats were anchored out, and another sailed in
(yes, sailed, not motored) as we watched. Dinghies and fishing
boats came and went from the dock; children played in the sand;
a puppy wobbled up the restaurant steps. In addition to the other
on-site workshops, Turbulence has just opened a new sail loft and
rigging shop here, which should generate additional activity
when the long weekend is over, of course.
The next day, Grenada Marine's owner/operators Jason and Laura
Fletcher popped over to the next bay, La Sagesse, to join us for lunch
and show us that their business is not the only thing in their lives
that's been growing since the last time we were in Grenada: they've
got 18-month-old twins! Although the bay itself is a bit shallow and
sometimes rolly as an anchorage, La Sagesse Resort, like Bel Air
Plantation at St. David's Harbour, provides a serene escape for those
in search of an antidote to drudgery in the boatyard. From Grenada
Marine, you can take a footpath over the hill and walk to the far end
of the unspoiled La Sagesse beach for drinks, lunch and a swim at
the small resort, and dinner and a few nights ashore if the boatwork
is all too much. (Or you can request free transportation from the
boatyard when making your meal or room reservation.) La :-
Resort, with the only buildings on the entire shoreline and I I
free of motorized watersports, ...... I11 estate of the sixth
Lord Brownlow. Since our last -., -1 I simple, new rooms
have been added and the lobby and excellent restaurant are now in
a beautifully designed, airy wood-and-stone structur- ri.it -n the sand.
And here we ended our tour of Grenada's south -1 11 went any farther east,
we'd be in one of Don Street's secret anchorages. But that's another story.
Right: And when
you need a
break from boat
yard, marina or
coast abounds in
ties such as
I ALL AHORE..
by Bev Bate
My husband Bill and I spent a couple of weeks with our boat secured to the one and
only mooring ball in Turtle Bay, Ocho Rios, Jamaica, on the north coast approximate
ly halfway between Port Antonio and Montego Bay. One or two cruise ships arrive daily
in Ocho Rios with the resulting tour buses and boats loaded to overflowing. Jet-skis
raced around us churning up the water. Ocho Rios is much more modem than Port
Antonio, catering to holiday resort vacationers and cruise ship passengers. One day as
a tour boat passed by I overheard a crewmember announce that in the hills above Ocho
Rios there were homes owned by Barbara Streisand, Eddie Murphy and Mick Jagger. I
scanned the hillside with binoculars hoping to catch a glimpse of these famous people.
Dunn's River Falls
While in Ocho Rios we decided to visit and climb Dunn's River Falls, claimed to be
one of the most beautiful waterfalls in the world as well as the highest-grossing
tourist attraction in Jamaica. This time we traveled with a couple we'd met who were
S . m Cincinnati. By now we figured out a route taxi would get us there
I 1 .... and cheaper than a regular taxi.
Dunn's River Falls, loc.l I .... .I .il.i .1.. .... . vas full of tourists of all
ages, brought in by tour ..- ... i .i i .... .... ... I areas, even as far away
as Montego Bay. At the t 11 ... I I 1 .I .. i I .1 .. .20 tourists (from small
children to seniors) are a- -,., i .- ,I I I 1 i ..,is the fun and exhilarat
ing experience ahead and challenge climbing up the limestone formations (about
180 meters). He was interested in everyone having fun and climbing in safety. He
would assist climbers and ensure no one got injured. Another individual was
assigned to take photos of the group (available for purchase after the climb).
Protecting your camera from getting dunked could be quite a challenge so the guides
would also carry cameras. The way the guides control the crowds and keep them
together is to have tourists hold hands, forming a human chain. This turned out to
be both a help and a hindrance. There were times when it was easier (and probably
safer) to climb on all fours. Surprisingly we found tt i i.... quite secure and sur
mise that the rocks are scrubbed, keeping them :. i ... tropical, slimy, algae
growth. The air was filled with laughter and squeals of glee from young and old.
Human chains were frequently broken and reattached. Photo opportunities were
snatched and even orchestrated with tourists sliding down a rock and submerging
themselves while the assigned photographer "captured the moment".
At the end of the climb the -.;i 1 t 1t at the exit ramp reminding you of their
assistance and i i,... tip II 1, .... I -; from other groups helped when needed
and also looked i I of the action. You could hear guides reminding certain
tourists of the help they gave them. We enjoyed the climb but were somewhat
relieved when it was ove] .... ...i i ... -.elves on taking the challenge con
s. TI. I. .1 ... I II. ,,,I itself consumed our attention and
S 11 ., 1- we walked to the bottom and captured it all in photos of the
lush, beautiful jungle and cascading waterfall from various lookouts.
One of the unfortunate aspects of this highest-grossing tourist attraction is that
tourists are guided back to their buses without passing through the local craft market
i,, i, i,..i . i. ,.. i .... I i .,- .. i ,,,. i,.1 dresses and souvenirs
SI .11 .,' i II I,.,,'i- I ,,- I I 1 .. if lack of business and
expressed disappointment that the government did not address their interests.
Continued on next page
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Continuedfrom previous page
Traveling by route taxi through the scenic Fern Gully and tucked away in the hills,
we emerged upon Walkerswood, home of Jamaica's world famous Walkerswood Jerk
Seasoning. It began as a small rural community initiative and the employees, who
Walkerswood products. Their products include jerk seasoning, chutney, jellies,
Scotch Bonnet pepper sauce and many more. They grow all the ingredients and pro
duce numerous products for export. Allspice is used extensively in Jamaican cook
ing and is also exported from Walkerswood. Some of the production is mechanized
F g" Above: In Montego Bay, statues honoring abolitionist hero Sam Sharpe
Left: Jerk lessons, anyone? The right combination of these locally grown herbs
and spices is delectable
but the packaging and labeling is still done by hand. It wa- I
Our traveling companion, from Cincinnati, worked as a I ....- ... I I flavoring
and had a particular interest in ..-- ow the produce was grown and chatting
with the farmers. This was not pa.' I I i tour but they were pleased to accommo
date his request, and the four of us hiked into the fields with a guide who pointed
out the various fields and crops. She summoned one of the farmers who showed us
ill .,. ,. .... rid weed control methods. They used chicken manure mixed with rice
jill-i I I I control ... I .i1,. ...
Following our trek in I. I. I I II I a refreshing punch (alcoholic or non
alcoholic) and given a brief explanation of how Walkerswood was started and developed
over the years. Our cheerful and informed guide then took us i.. ...1. ii, .,ounds
where spices are grown and identified for the benefit of the tourism, -i1 i along
the way at an open air rests - .... I -jerk seasoning were spread
a U out along the counter (with 1. I 1 I ....- .,redient).
-Continued on next page
-Continued from previous page
Our friend volunteered to combine the spices she would use to mn.l-- j-1-r- .-.i-.
The guide encouraged her to use a little more or less of a particular i. .. 11 11,
spices were mixed together they were used on pre-cooked chicken ., i ....
pling. It was most delectable.
We then met Mother Thyme, dressed in period costume, who gave us a tour of an
early slave-built home with the cooking tools and utensils of the time. From there we
proceeded to the factory where we could view the products being processed. At the
end of the tour we sampled the various delicious products served with crackers.
The kitchen craft shop was the last stop where we could purchase any of
Walkerswood products at very reasonable prices. FI .... .....i I i ,1 ...ii we had dif
faculty limiting our purchases. We loaded up with ,.11 I ... i... ,- to Canada
and only wished 1. 11 .. 1. 1 ..1 1 11. ... ..nt as everything was a unique treat.
We will keep our I i I II. I i... I products in our travels.
We discovered that Montego Bay (nicknamed MoBay) is a tourist haven for all
inclusive hotels and resorts but offers little to the cruising boater. On the opposite
shore of the bay from the townsite there is a yacht club with mooring and docks. At
the city marina there is a small chandlery with very helpful owners who went out of
their way to help. The owner accompanied us in a taxi to locate a business where we
could purchase a piece of stainless steel sheet and have it bent. The business was
tucked away on a side street and we would have never located it on our own.
The old section of town with its historic buildings and cobblestone streets was fas
cinating to explore. Montego Bay was a center for sugarcane production and slavery.
It was also the location where slave activist and national hero, Sam Sharpe, a slave
S. i i i i, ,i i, 1 I .... the eventual abolishment of slavery through
tl. i.I..-....- -I. I I II,. I I More than a thousand slaves were killed,
including Sam Sharpe, who was hanged in the square that now bears his name.
Standing in the square brought mixed feelings of sorrow and awe at the historical
events that occurred there.
The narrow streets gave us the sense that this area of town hasn't changed much from
the 1700s. We wand ii .. .. 1, ii. .-eets and later learned we had wandered right
through "the ghetto" .... I I. told that people ..-i I.. .11 ii.....i. .
However, at no tim e did i i .. . i I .. i I .... i, ii.. i Ii .i i i .... II II
W e had a delightful, ...Ih .i i .... .. ... I.... i .i -.... I. .. -.. . restau
rant frequented by locals, consisting of curried goat, peas-and-rice and salad. Our
favorite drink that we discovered in Jamaica is Ting, a carbonated grapefruit drink,
produced in Kingston. To our delight other Caribbean islands have discovered it as
well and we continue to enjoy it as we travel.
We spent a couple of nights anchored next to James Bond Bay in Oracabessa
(nicknamed Bessa), 21 kilometres east of Ocho Rios. At his home on the shore at
Oracabessa, we learned Ian Fleming wrote all 14 of the "007" spy novels. The beach
was well maintained, although empty when we were there, and is used primarily for
concerts and special events. There was a cordoned-off section of the beach called
Stingray Beach where tourists can swim with the stingrays. It appeared the
stingrays had escaped as there was no evidence of any as we paddled our dinghy
along the water fence barrier.
Our .. 1 ii ... I ..i i .. 1. .i i .i.. .sit to English actor, playwright and
compo.- I .. - .1 .1i i .. I .- .. of the most interesting excursions
in Jamaica. How could we resist? From the beach we climbed a steep hill into the lit
tie town of Oracabessa. The townspeople looked at us inquiringly, as they probably
see few tourists. The town was old and run down but alive with people going about
their daily routines. We flagged down a route taxi that took us five kilometres east of
Oracabessa to Firefly. Our driver speculated that it was closed that day and we might
only get to view the grounds. Fortunately a group of about ten people from the
German cruiseship, Aida, docked in Ocho Rios, arrived at exactly the same time. A
S tour had been pre
arranged for them
and we joined in.
Sir Noel Coward
was multi talented.
He was also a song
writer and artist.
The latter talent he
The grounds around
his home boast
lawns adorned with
of flowering trees
and shrubs. There
was a spectacular
View of the coastline
Historic cottage built by privateer Henry Morgan later housed and Little Bay The
playwrig Noel Coward home has been pre
playwright NoeCoard served as Coward left
it at the time of his
death in 1973, n -111-illn ti- china used when Queen Elizabeth visited in 1965. The
table was set u ..1 .-i,, for lunch to be served. Coward's original paintings are
displayed throughout the home along with numerous photographs of himself and
famous Hollywood actors/actresses whom he entertained. He is buried under a plain
marble slab on a hill that overlooks the bay. A life sized statue of Noel Coward sit
ting in a chair, smoking a cigarette, is perched on the lawn overlooking the view he
Another structure on the property, a stone cottage, served as Noel Coward's tem
porary residence until his threestorey home was completed. This cottage had previ
ously been built and occupied by pirate and privateer, Henry Morgan. He launched
attacks on Spanish galleons passing by the island returning to Spain with their
bounty. The stone house has block walls nearly two feet thick with small ports to fit
a gun's muzzle through. The interior was cool, shading the occupants from the hot
Jamaican sun. In contrast, there was a very large stone fireplace that would have
been used to prepare meals in hanging pots over the flames. Across the lawn on the
verge of the steep cliff is a rock platform where we were told Morgan posted a sentry
who scoured the seas for the bountiful Spanish galleons. When sighting one, he sig
naled to waiting crews sheltered in the bay below. The hut is now used as a restau
rant and bar.
S -, ..i.i .1 ... .. .. 11 ...- ..i Jamaica, its interesting sights, wonders and
inm I I I I .nd would encourage boaters to put it on their
itinerary of places to visit. It is currently on the top of our list of places we'd like to
return to one day.
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W hen my husband John and I lived as wild
country folk deep in the lost valley of
Trinidad, John had decided one day to keep
bees. I knew no better back then, and as we had
braved the wilds of the Northern Range, built a bridge
across the river to get to our steep acreage and
installed a generator to supply electricity to the house,
I had only shrugged off a sense of impending pain.
Enough said that John installed his beehives and we
extracted delectable honey from the combs.
Years later, a move to St. Lucia gave us a different
lifestyle entirely. St. Lucia offered life lived on the
water, an old yacht or two to restore and children, Sean
and Christopher, who now resented the unpampered
life of rowing to and from their home and being laughed
at in school as those crazy boat kids. 'We're not the
crazy ones, its our parents!" was their constant wail.
Well, John missed his bees. Oh, those little critters
are a rare learning experience. Imagine being a bee
scout (our boys had been Scouters in Trinidad so they
should have been in sympathy with their wild broth
ers -ha!). The scouts fly off in the morning -weath
er permitting and bad weather makes them cross as
hell -and their task is to find a source of nectar, the
basic raw material for honey production. After satisfy
ing itself that a source has been found -and scouts
are fin-l-- .--;;t ti-.= i==1n. I-- i--rfectly good
orange i i -- ... ... .. .I to find the
strong- ... I. i I i .. i i... I the far hill
the 1.. I i .. i I. 11 i.. Ii i. -m e, crawls
through the narrow space on the landing platform and
the hive boxes and into the pitch black recesses of the
vertical comb frames. You must understand that no
light enters here, so the scout begins a twirly dance
amongst the nectar collectors touching them suggest
tively and 11 i ii... them exactly in what direc
tion to fly i I. fly to reach the logwood tree.
Off fly the bees, happy to get out of the house, wing
past the seductive orange blossoms juet '--in- to be
fertilized (imagine how they feel being :... i i the
common logwood!) and land panting on the frothy
---1 1---- 1
ii -.. i. I -, eating brood to look after, can you
wonder that John started to look about for some way
to keep bees again, regardless of the fact that we were
living on a boat. I will say this however: we were
moored reasonably close to shore in a cove of Castries
Harbour, and we did spend school terms more or less
in one place (our mooring had a tendency to break
loose every so often), sailing off only for weekends, be
they long or short. Holiday cruises? Well, John would
think about this when the time came.
One good thing about bees is that there is no need to
feed or water them. What is the problem then? Bees
multiply. If you don't watch your hives carefully, one day
a new Queen Bee will emerge and fly off with most of the
,.. ii ...... .., ,, the brood. Of
I. I II ii ... . i, new birth
machine, leaving behind poor, tired old Mum Queen and
a few loyal helpers. So you see, John would have a prob
lem if we took off and went cruising for a while.
Let me just tell ....1i 1. re, how a beekeeper
feels about losing h I.. I Back in Trinidad one
morning after John had left for work and taken the
boys with him to their school, I suddenly became
aware of a strong buzzing sound. "Good God, it's the
bees!" I dashed outside to see what was up and there,
flying fast over the house, was a swarm of bees. I raced
after them and fortunately they settled high in a tree
on the edge of our property. Mmm, what to do now?
John had told me often enough that if ever I saw a
swarm take off not to let it out of my sight. So far so
good. But I couldn't stand around in the sand fly and
mosquito, not to mention coral snake, infested bush
all day, so reluctantly I went back home, hoping the
bees were satisfied with their new home and stayed
by Lee f
put. Around six o'clock John came home. I told him
about the swarm. He hurried off to see how he could
get them back and after a short while an angry face
glared at me. "Where are my bees? Why didn't you
keep your eye on them?" Useless to explain to a man
who loves his bees more than his wife.
The next day he gave instructions to our yardman,
Rafael, to go and find the bees -take all day if neces
sary. I watched Rafael take his cutlass and stride off
in the direction he was told to follow and that was all
I saw of him for the day. By the sneaky smile on his
face I knew that he would circle back to his own house
on the other side of our property and spend the day
drinking strong rum. Bleary-eyed the next day, Rafael
looked hard done by as he mumbled when questioned,
"I does walk all about until me foot sore and I does
neva see bee, not not'in'. I tired now too much." And
he turned his back and went home. The bees were
never seen again.
Okay, back to bees and boats, or I should say, bees
ON boats. John had but one hive box on the woody hill
overlooking our bit of the bay. He tended it well and
that dreaded day came when he said: "The frames are
full and ready for uncapping. Get the bottles ready."
Grrrr. I took the empty rum bottles I had been keep
ing in the back of a cupboard and carefully washed
and drained them; John took his bee hat with its pro
tective veil, his hive tool and his smoker and dinghied
back to shore, taking the boys with him. No, the boys
were not going to help, they sensibly had decided to
spend the night with a friend. Sooo, John smoked the
bees into a stupor, brushed the bees off the full frames
and back into the box with the half-filled frames and
carried the loot down to the dinghy. He came back to
the boat and we took the frames down below. Ah, but
a scout or two had recovered just in time to see their
honey being stolen, so they flew after the thief and
stealthily came down the companionway and said,
"You think you can get away with this? Not bloody
likely." Back they went to a now stirring hive and in
almost no time at all, angry bees were assaulting the
boat. Yikes! We closed all the hatches in record time,
.11 11 i ..i I I at but not before a good
I ....... i I i I .... I ... inder skin. Oh, there is
nothing so, so painful as a bee sting. It is a jagged zip
of lightning that punctures a nerve cell and makes you
rigid with shock.
We set about uncapping the frames and spinning
them, three at a time, in the drum we had brought up
from Trinidad, the centrifugal force flinging out the
honey into the bottom of the drum. Finally I carefully
poured the thick, dark syrup through a funnel into the
bottles. It was a long and tedious job as the bottle
necks get an air bubble in them and the honey flows
down the outsides of the bottles instead of the inside.
By then it had grown dark and the bees had gone
home to rally forces for the morning. We opened the
hatches with thankful relief as we had been dying of
heat down below with our perspiration mingling with
And so it went until one afternoon when the boys had
gone ashore to meet up with a particularly obnoxious
friend, Joseph by name. I was sitting on deck relaxing
after a couple of hours of derusting the scuppers when
I heard shouts from shore. I jumped to my feet in time
to see Sean, followed by Joseph, then Christopher leap
ing with impossible speed and agility over the sharp,
slimy rocks of the breakwater below the hill sheltering
the beehive and straight into the water. I saw all three
break the surface, take a quick look around, take a
deep breath and disappear again. What had caused
such panic? Then I heard it, before I saw it -a deep,
angry roar -a thousand bee throats calling for blood,
yes and it was coming from that long black cloud fol
lowing the rising bubbles of the fast underwater swim-
mers. I watched helplessly as heads broke the surface,
took big breaths and then, getting the aim right disap
peared again. The boys were making an Olympic
record, underwater sprint for the boat and safety.
Safety? I stood well back from the boarding ladder as
desperate hands reached up and grabbed for the
rungs. But there was no way that any man, boy or
beast could get on board. The bees flew in furious cir
cles around the boat and 'h- 1--r 1;;- ladder and all
that the kids could do was ... I second or two,
take a breath and submerge. The bees, thank good
ness, weren't at all interested in me, T.1- 1 up a
coil of rope and tied the ends to the .- I 'l. stan
chions and threw the rest, as a loop, into the water.
When a head appeared I shrieked out to grab the line
so that they couldn't drift too far from the boat.
Fortunately the afternoon was almost at an end and
when darkness began to set in, the bees gave up the
vigil and went home in a sulk. After an hour in the
water, the three boys were exhausted and climbed
aboard to fall to the deck thankful they were still alive.
"What on earth did you do?" I asked, not unkindly,
when the three had recovered enough to speak. Slowly,
between gulps and pants, the truth came out. Joseph
had found a dead rat and picking it up with a stick,
had tossed it onto the landing platform of the beehive.
Dead rat aroma filled the hive in a twinkling and the
boys' curiosity about what the bees would do with this
unwelcome visitor was answered long before they had
expected it. The bees took offense "with prejudice" and
attacked. The boys ran like Mercury with the wings
attached to his feet, straight down the scrubby incline,
across the breakwater and into the sea.
"I told Joseph not to do it," Christopher said between
The problem of what to do about the bees when we
prepared to sail the boat down to St. Vincent for a
haulout, solved itself. Much as I disliked the bees I
was very sorry for them and John when the lord and
master of boat and bees came back to the boat one
afternoon and sank forlornly into the cockpit.
"They've been fogging all along the shoreline for
mosquitoes," John told me, his voice low. "The pesti
cide drifted up the hill and all the bees are dead or
+ 'in- M' entire hive has been wiped out."
I I comfort and a good, strong rum and we
drank to the departed souls of these honest labourers
as the sun sank down into the indigo waters of the har-
bour. John would never keep bees again -I prayed.
90 9o Hra L td
FOR YOUR MARINE HARD WARE, AND MORE
Chain & Rope
Anchors & Fenders
Lubricants & Oils
Flares & Life Jackets
Sanding Paper & Discs
Hand & Power Tools
Houseware & Cookware
Y ARIES (21 Mar 20 Apr)
Your sense of humor will be your mainstay this month,
i i i...... I. i two weeks when every tack you
STAURUS (21 Apr 21 May)
SGEMINI (22 May 21 Jun)
Finish any boat projects left over from last month and
1 ..' 1 I .. 1 .. siness squalls or choppy seas in your love
0 CANCER (22 Jun 23 Jul)
You'll have a high tide of work energy during the first
two weeks. Use it to finish boat projects left undone so
you'll be ready for more creative pursuits next month.
Q LEO (24 Jul 23 Aug)
Take some time off the boat and spend it ashore with
friends, taking it easy. This will give you a fresh outlook
for the future.
H VIRGO (24 Aug 23 Sep)
Keep your hand on the helm of your business or finan-
S ii.. I... i. I i I you can concentrate
^ LIBRA (24 Sep 23 Oct)
. i ,, I I .in drive this month. Spend
1.. i1 . 11 boat projects and commu
nications you began last month.
T SCORPIO (24 Oct 22 Nov)
Aspects are encouraging for on-board repairs. This will
be true for November also. Pick the most important ones
in order to be ready for charters or cruises in the coming
SSAGITTARIUS (23 Nov 21 Dec)
i i 1i i 1 and use that famous sense
ven keel as your love life as
SCAPRICORN (22 Dec 20 Jan)
Business or finance will continue to pick up like a fresh
breeze, and romance will sail in to brighten the month for
^ AQUARIUS (21 Jan 19 Feb)
... orce .. I
iI before 11.
PISCES (20 Feb 20 Mar)
Love and business matters may be on the rocks, but
you'll feel full of energy on board. So, hide out on the boat
and concentrate on making improvements there!
ACROSS 26) TEAR 15) TRENNEL
2) TEMPEST 27) TROUGH 16) TROUBLE
7) TREAT 28) TRIMMED 17) TRESSEL
9) TREES 18) TRUNDLE
10) TROLL DOWN 19) TRIPPING
11) TRIANGLE 1) TEA 21) TROW
13) TRENCH 2) THERE 23) TEST
14) TRUCKS 3) TROPIC 24) TRIM
15) TRIATIC 4) TALL 25) TROD
17) TOTE 5) TRY 26) TITI
20) TRUE 6) TRIGGER
21) TROUNCE 8) TRICK
22) TRIP 11) TRUNK
24) TREBLE 12) TRICING
25) TRIPLE 14) TROUL
A WATER PUMP
West Marine Water Pressure Pump version 2.4
I hope you're better than the one before
which Jerry put on
but it didn't last long
It made up its mind to suddenly stop
It wouldn't pump water, not even a drop
The winch handle gave it a mighty thump
water flowed, again it did pump
But the efforts were soon for naught
A better solution must be sought
So Jerry took the pump apart
and once again it did start
I forgot its idiosyncratic ways
when it worked again for days and days
But the silly pump seemed to know
when to stop and when to flow
Did the Captain really care
I was in the cockpit bare
with shampoo still in my hair?
So once again he removed the stair
and repeated steps one and two
It worked again, but stopped on cue
when I was in the cockpit nude
It really spoiled the evening mood
Must I wait to rinse in rain?
I moaned on, it seemed in vain
With its evil, vindictive habits
I had well and truly had it.
Take it out and put it away,
I cannot take it one more day!
Who'd have thought it
When he bought it
The teeny, tiny pressure switch
Would end up being such a bitch?
But by next morning
Jerry's plan had been forming:
He finally installed the new pump
The old one should go to the dump
But it's in the locker as a spare
Use it again, if you dare.
So dear West Marine Water Pressure Pump version 2.4
I pray you'll behave better than the one before.
Written for Jerry Blakeslee sailing on Islomania, now
in Bocas del Toro, Panama. August 2007.
Co aa Cuin Crsw Nautical Alphabet:
'T' at ea
Subscribe to the
Caribbean Compass On-line!
1) Boston Party
2) Not here
3) Latitude reached by sun at maximum declination
4) ship: lofty vessel
5) sail: boomless fore and aft sail
6) Let fall the pall of a cradle to allow ship to slide
down the ways
8) Turn at the helm
11) Seaman's storage container
12) line: small cord passing through a block
14) Action of silt being rolled along by the tide
15) Tree nail (also spelled trunnel)
16) Famous old Bequia double ender
17) Timber mast supports, with 9 Across
(also spelled trestle)
18) Lower drum head of a capstan
19) Upsetting, as an anchor
21) Clinker built, flat-floored barge
23) Pass this to get Coast Guard license
24) Move ballast to do this to a ship
25) Walked the boards
26) vate: freshen paint, spruce up
Solution on page 30
Surfer babes on ice? It's not a new drink it's women having fun, right on Main Street, Bocas Del
Toro, Panama. Snuggling up to the hunk of ice are, from left to right, Jane from Australia, Alexandra
from Sweden, Sorcha from Ireland and Abby from Canada.
7) Use Cuprinol to wood rot
9) See 17 Down
10) Fish with line from a moving boat
13) foot: sailors were formerly
susceptible to this
14) Circular caps on the mastheads
15) Stay connecting two masts
17) that barge, lift that bale..."
20) In navigation, not magnetic
21) Beat or pummel
24) block: one with three sheaves
25) Jack: well-known Virgin Islands
26) What old sails do
17 18 27) Hollow between crests of two seas
28) Adjusted sail
I CRUIISINGT *YT R11*E R
early had been told to watch out for the
garze ever since she could remember. In
e village where she lived with her moth
er and three brothers in the south of the island C
of St. Lucia, no one ever mentioned the garze's
real name because if you did you were asking for
trouble. No, everyone knew who the garze was
and everyone was very careful not to offend her.
Garzes are women -well, usually they are
because evil men tend to stick to being mage
noirs, but I'll tell you about them another time.
Why all this fear of garzes? Perhaps I'm asking
for trouble just by telling you this story, but here
goes any-- -- -rdlin- to local folklore, garzes,
with the 11. .1 can change themselves
into any creature or thing they like and they do
horrible things to people they don't like while
disguised as some harmless creature. Most peo
ple stay away from white animals, particularly by Le
horses and dogs, because nine times out of ten
that animal is really a garze in disguise.
Sometimes the garze turns into a coffin and that
is the worst thing of all because you'd better not
try to pass it or else you're sure to DIE! No wonder Karly trembled every time she
had to pass the garze's front door and when she met Mistress Garze in the street she
had to get out of the way by stepping into the road, saying a polite good day and
keeping her eyes on the ground.
No one suspected that the little stream
had swollen into a raging torrent
from all the rain high up in the mountains
One day when Karly was 12 years old she took the local transport to go to the next
village to visit her .. ... i... i, a very old lady who hardly ever left her cottage. It
was in the middle i 1l. .... -eason and although the sun had shone when Karly
left home, it started to pour down the moment she got to Grandma's cottage. This
didn't worry Karly because she was used to heavy rain and besides, Grandma had
n't planned on going anywhere. In fact, Karly and her -.-rn-i-- =- t the morning
in the kitchen, "-l-i;; ----..;t bread and frying up a ... 1.. i i i i. -i and bakes
for lunch. Then .11 I, i I eaten as much as they could, Grandma settled down
in her old rocking chair with Karly at her knee and told her all about Papa Bois and
how he kept the forest creatures safe. The time sped away, it stopped raining and
Karly set out for home. But Karly hadn't realized
how late it was and by the time the transport
had dropped her off, it was dark, black dark.
SO U T Karly was scared, and when she had to pass the
front door of the garze, she gave a little whimper.
A few steps down the road and poor Karly could
n't see a thing!
Now, between the village and Karly's home was
a small ravine with a little wooden bridge across
it and although it had rained during the day, it
was nothing unusual. So no one suspected that
rent from all the rain high up in the mountains
and that the little steam had washed the banks
*E and the footbridge away. But the garze knew.
Karly's mother and brothers were safe and
sound at home and they weren't at all worried
about Karly because Karly knew her way home
:essell even in the dark.
But this was far worse than just dark, it was
death dark and Karly ran on in a blind panic. To
her, the night was full of garzes and mage noirs,
all out to get her. Mistress Garze sat up when
she heard Karly pass her door and she knew the little girl would run right over the
edge of the ravine and be swept away and drowned in the flood. You probably think
this is what the garze wanted, but no, it was not. No, Mistress Garze had never hurt
a child in her whole life and she knew she had to do something to save Karly. It was
no use calling out to the child to stop; this would only make her run faster, so
Mistress Garze did the only thing she could. She turned herself into a coffin and
whamp! Just as Karly was about to rush headlong over the edge, she found a big
white coffin blocking her way. The coffin actually glowed in the dark, so that Karly
could SEE it very plainly! Karly screamed loud and long and turning about ran all
the way back to the village where she flung herself through the open door of Pa
"Pa Wilson!" Karly panted, almost choking with fear. "A white coffin won't let me
get home! It's the garze!"
Pa Wilson tutted, got Karly to sit quietly until she got her breath back and gave
her a penny bread to eat, hot from the oven. He then got his torch light, called to his
son Bob to come with them and off he led the way back towards Karly's home. Karly
trembled all the way, holding tight to Pa Wilson's hand. When they were almost at
the ravine Karly began shrieking, "De coffin here! De coffin here!"
But F .1- .. 11... at all! There certainly was no white coffin or any other
sort of II,,, i ,, Ii ..- .o bridge either! Pa Wilson saw the terrible deep ravine
and the raging water below. He marveled at the lucky escape of young Karly. He
turned away and took Karly and his son back home to the bakery.
"Why girl, yo' lucky so! Garze save yo' life; not all garze bad yo' know. Tomorrow
yo' must knock on she door and thank her proper."
Pa Wilson put Karly to bed on the sofa and then he collected some neighbours to
help set up a barrier with a light to stop anyone from falling into the ravine. Early the
next morning Karly knocked on Mistress Garze's door and when the old lady opened
it, Karly looked up at her and smiled. "Thank you for saving my life, Mistress."
The old lady patted Karly on her soft, brown cheek and the smile she returned was
not the evil smile of a wicked garze, but the gentle smile of an old lady who had done
her best to right a bad situation.
ro 'eUL SPNOED BY PEI STICN ESOT
DOLLY'S DEEP SECRETS
by Elaine Ollivierre
I Do you know what NOAA stands for? Its the National Oceanic Atmospheric
I Administration which is a division of the US Department of Commerce. NOAA is
responsible for research on the weather, the oceans, and the environment in general.
In the first week of September this year, scientists working out of NOAA laboratories
in Seattle published some quite disturbing research results about the Arctic region.
Do you know the difference between the Arctic and the Antarctic? Well, I
expect you already know that the Arctic is at the North Pole and the Antarctic is
at the South Pole, but there's also a big physical difference between the two areas.
Antarctica is a mountainous continent, surrounded by water. It is covered by ice
which moves slowly towards the shoreline, forming glaciers and ice shelves. The
Arctic is an ocean surrounded by land. The ocean is covered with floating ice
which drifts slowly around. Each summer, some of the sea ice at the edge of the
region melts then freezes back as winter comes on.
So, what's the bad news? Scientists use computers to look at information
collected about a particular area and try to work out what's going to happen
in the future. A recent study of temperatures and conditions in the Arctic has
led the researchers to believe that 40 percent of the Arctic ice cap will have
melted by 2050. Already, more sea ice melted this year than ever before and
the North-West Passage across northern Canada opened up completely for the
Why is this so worrying? Conditions in the Arctic have a great effect on the
rest of the world. Sea ice is bright and white and reflects most of the sunlight
which hits it. It keeps the region cool and this helps to keep the rest of the world
a little cooler too. If the sea ice melts, then more dark sea water is exposed. Dark
colours absorb more sunlight, so the seas (and the world) get warmer.
It is also worrying that, unfortunately, there is little that can be done to prevent
the huge melt. The greenhouse gases that contribute to global warming stay in
the atmosphere for many years, so, even if production of those gases is cut dras
tically now, the gases already in the atmosphere will :. 1 i I . ...1 .
Will all that melting of sea ice mean that sea le% els t di rise'
Here's an experiment that will show you why.
Put a few ice cubes in a container. Fill the container to the brim with water so
that the ice is floating on the top. Leave it until the ice melts. What do you think
will happen? Here are your choices: the water level in the container will (a) drop
(b) rise (c) stay the same. Try it and see.
1 11111 I
Bikini-cl i 1 i 1 1 i . i,,i I 1 that
filled the .. . ..... I I ... . I I -cud,
our 44-fo .. .. ... ... .. our 20-year-old son,
was in overdrive -his normal operating speed. "See
ya, Mom! I'm going in to find some hot babes," he
shouted, sliding sunglasses into his pocket.
She's rescued us from potentially serious trouble
many times, when we've been delayed below decks,
making tea or analyzing charts. Being exceptionally
alert and curious, a Schipperke will bark at anything
"new": a garbage bag that wasn't there before she took
a nap, a large cargo ship advancing out of the haze on
by Tina Dreffin
"Dad's got the dinghy," I shouted up from the galley
towards the cockpit where he was standing.
"No worries; I'll swim in!" he said with a muffled cry.
i ... .. i i i ,. i .- .. tosee him
ii , i i . ii . .. h deck stan-
chion (good thing his dad missed that launch platform!).
Oops, there ,. 11. i too. Wherever Warren goes
(or anyone in ... i .....i Bella -our little Belgian
barge dog -goes too. She's performed Herculean acts
of bravery to prove her loyalty and devotion: many
times to near loss of life! She's on life number 12 now,
way past the eight that we told she was allowed.
To lengthen her lifetime with us, we installed a dog-
gie boarding ladder from the port sugar-scoop. She
can come and go at will. (We stow it when underway,
to ensure against wandering walkabouts.) In port, she
hangs in our shadows when we scrub the bottom, dive
the anchor, or cool off on a hot day. She paddles in like
a little kid!
So, today she strutted down the sugar-scoop with
toes just over her rubber ladder, launched into a
makeshift swan dive, paddled after Warren, and then
promptly boarded his back. His stern instructions
rode the hot still air: "Look, Bella jump on ALL the
girls this time when I throw the Frisbee!" She's his
guaranteed "babe-catcher"! (Even when an old mom
like me walks her, pretty girls approach, curious
about her breed.)
Bella is our third Schipperke raised onboard our
various sailboats while rearing our two sons in the
Caribbean. Better known as ,i1 I 1.... I .. dog,
these -.i i .- perfectly .. i i ... chil
dren. .11. I. .. Iotect. ..i nature, a child can
dress up a Schipperke, I II .. xt to it, and whisper
angelic secrets into pointed little ears, all while the dog
is maintaining a sharp look-out for possible hidden
dangers to the child or boat. And being a guard dog is
their second nature: they were once used to guard the
cargo holds of the .t 1 i. .nal boats of Belgium.
That's where their f1.I i 1.111 skipper" originated.
So, I love it when overly eager boat boys want to hag
gle for a bunch of bruised bananas I don't want. Bella
won't let them hang onto the lifelines long enough for
m. .. sue! When new friends arrive, how
1i1 Idown, once having been "introduced"
and sensing our comfortable arrangement.
the high seas, 1 1. . 1 1...-i;n a gnarly
squall in some ... ... i. .. I .. I tell her.
Such alertness keeps the dog entertained during long
passages too. Dolphins drive her mad. They whistle
and chortle to each other, while she dashes from port
to starboard chasing their disappearing fins. Relishing
her antics, the dolphins linger at our bow wake, and
perform butter-slides across our rooster-tails.
Our minds were made up to get this clever dog when
we were boarded one night in Jamaica, several years ago.
A crafty thief swam out to Antilles, our 46-foot wooden
boat, crept around six people, and stole cash in three
-n .1--iti-.. k f-k of canned food! It had been
S. i .... i i ,, i and naturally we'd celebrate
ed. (Rum was 25 cents a shot at the Chinese dive back in
those days.) Today, I know I am safe when my husband
Peter disappears into town to hunt down spare parts. If
anyone cruises through the anchorage with suspicious
curiosity, my canine protector is standing sentinel on the
bow giving tongue. Schipperkes are not yappy though;
she won't bark without reason, so my neighbors aren't
annoyed. Just on notice.
Like any good pet, Schipperkes must be cherished
and loved, as they are very affectionate. Bella relies on
and looks forward to her walk every day: Me too! (They
can also be trained to "use" Astroturf, strung onto a
line for rinsing, which is useful at sea or when
anchored at islands where boat pets are not allowed
ashore.) It gets me off the boat and into the world.
Often, it's a little too easy to languish like a tourist,
but the "list" beckons, and a beach stroll invigorates
me to tackle my morning chores. Dinner get-togethers
have often been planned when walking her on long
afternoons: I run into friends, meet new people.
Bella's size makes it easy to smuggle her into any
island restaurant, cafe, or indoor market. She fits
comfortably in an open duffle that slips over my should
der. She watches the show go by, quiet as a mouse.
From the bow, a familiar percussion of frivolity
brings me out of my sweet reverie. I put down my cloth
and tin of stainless polish to walk astern. Warren is
back with Bella -along with a girl so stunning look
ing, she could be a Vogue model. "Hi, Mom! Meet
Laura, my new friend on vacation from California." He
winks at me, and my heart swells from his charm. I
reach down to pat Bella, saying, "Good girl!", then I
say to Laura, "I see you caught the Frisbee!"
Who could resist that adorable face? (Which one?)
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by Arlene Walrond
Los Roques, beautiful Los Roques. I'm still bereft of
words to fully describe this place that is considered
Paradise by many.
As hired crew on a private sailing yacht, my hus
band and I have spent at least a month a year for the
last four years in this beautiful Venezuelan archipela
go. Being a landlubber, the long passages back and
forth between Puerto La Cruz and these sandy islands
I can do without. It's not all bad though. When the sea
is reasonably calm and we're sailing on a beam reach
and I can make it to the cockpit, sometimes I'm
rewarded by the sight of dolphins skipping across the
water -that really makes my day. But for the most
part I'm confined below, lying on a bunk, praying for
the sweet oblivion of sleep, but sleep doesn't come.
(Once someone recommended a pill that's supposed to
relieve seasickness as well as help to induce sleep.
Well, I took two of those babies and was awake for four
days.) In the really rough parts I lie there in trepida
tion, bracing for the next crash when the bow makes
contact with the wall of water.
Miraculously .11i 11... i II .. .. .otforgot
ten but rather I -1 i I I I. i i i. ...... I until the
return trip -when we enter the blue-green and tranquil
waters of the island water park known as Los Roques.
During the four years that I've been visiting Los
Roques, I've explored a lot of the islands and without
doubt I would say that Francisqui is my favourite one,
even though I was almost sucked down into the salt
pond on the lee side of this mini-archipelago within an
archipelago. My husband had sauntered ahead while I
was engrossed in my surroundings. It was my first
time there and I had no idea where he was headed and
didn't want to lose sight of him, so I decided to take a
short cut across the pond. I'd crossed one on another
part of the Fran- .- I.. i..... ... I 1 ... .i ii..
wasjustasfirm, ,,i .. i i i ,
Themore I tried t. 1. ... i il I i .
Thoughts of quicksand flashed through my mind as I
struggled to free myself. I was choked with fear as I
looked at his disappearing figure, almost out of
earshot by this time. Eventually I was able to croak
out his name. He came running when he realized my
predicament and threw me something solid, I forget
what. I managed to pull my feet out of my flip-flops
and backtracked a step or two. Then went to work on
freeing my flip-flops. Luckily they were sturdy with
two-inch-thick soles or I might have had to say good
bye to them. It took me about ten minutes to get them
out and when I did I could not believe the stench. It
took several scrubbings with all kinds of cleaning
agents to get rid of the foul odor.
Francisqui also seems to be the favourite with
tourists and well-off Venezuelans alike, judging from
the amount of people we see there at any given time of
the year. It's especially populous at Eastertime and
midyear when school is out. It's the ideal place for
kite-surfing and other watersports. On the windward
side of Middle Francisqui there's a great spot for scuba
d i .. i i...
i. 1. -i 1 -1..... (spearfishing is against the
law!), swimming with the turtles in Noronqui or just
relaxing on the beach .. .1... i .. ..... i r
thosewho mightenjoyl i 1 11..... 1
I..... I ryone in Los Roques. For me it's the beau
,..i. -....- I- and a starry sky on a dark night, espe
cially if we're the only boat in an anchorage with no
S.i, i,.1i ...... I This is also a special time for the
SII I .1 ho sometimes sits for hours con
templating the stars. I also enjoy feeding the gulls that
hover around the boat. It's a thrill when they take the
bread right out of my fingers.
The only downside is when there's a constant stream
of pirogues speeding by packed with day trippers. They
a caimD o ine agnrnouse on uran loque (main pnoroj
provides dramatic coastal views (inset)
literally rock your world. Another sore point is the lack
of fresh fruits and vegetables on the main island, Gran
Roque. Sometimes we're lucky to go in on the same day
the cargo boat brings fresh supplies but often it's a "no
hq-'" eitlltinn Thp "?r in" local population on Gran
.1- . ...I. I II lack or shortage of certain
items on the shelves at times. Filling up water is anoth
er hardship one has to endure on Gran Roque, but I
suppose the good things in Los Roques far outweigh
the few inconveniences one has to put up with.
No visit to Los Roques is complete without a pil
grimage to the shrine at the top of the hill overlooking
the airport. We usually have a free day or two between
charter groups. When the water tanks have been
refilled, our laundry done and the boat cleaned up and
ready for the next arrivals, if we have time, we take a
walk-about on Gran Roque then head for the hill. If
we're pressed for time then we just head straight for
the hill, usually early afternoon in boiling hot sun.
Attempting to climb the last segment on the steep path
to the shrine in late afternoon can be scary. The wind
:- n -1 ,,. ii. .. ... I it whips you about. I'm on the
,.i, -. I I I. .1 and I'm hard pressed to keep
: II ... I ... I I .. off th e h ill, ,- . i . .... ..
a born coward and I'm not ashamed i i ,,,i i,., i
of the sea (except when it's calm, then I love it), afraid
of heights. That's enough to make me want to stay on
the ground, but the thrill : : I r .. Ihat small accom-
plishment is so profound I. .1 I I I I must do it again
and again. The small hill on Gran Roque today,
Kilimanjaro tomorrow. Who knows?
Skybird's Final Caribbean Season
BLANQUILLA, OUR FAVOURITE
ISLAND OF ALL
by Mary Robinson
We left Porlamar anchorage on Isla Margarita before
dawn. As we crossed Pampatar Bay, Isla Blanco gave
us a few moments concern. There was no light to be
seen, despite the "Fl 4sec 5M" shown on the chart. I
could see a dark lump of land ashore that obscured
the town lights behind it and so misidentified this
dark lump as the island. I had only just expressed my
opinion when the real Isla Blanco loomed up a couple
of hundred yards ahead, right on the bow. Plenty of
time to alter course, but a good reason for my hus
band, Alan, to pour scorn on my ability as navigator.
Right: Skybird at anchor in Playa Yaque, where
there's good holding offa white sand beach
Below: Splendid isolation: Americano Bay's distinctive
rock arch and remains of the eponymous
'Americano's' holiday home
Local fishing boats were also unlit. Over the throb of
our own engine we would hear the faint roar of an out
board motor travelling at speed. The sound would
swell until the shadow of a fast moving pirogue
appeared out of the gloom. The bc ,,. 1, 1I -.s close
enough for the crew to give us a :.. .. in the
loom of our own nav-lights before they disappeared
into the dark. I was not at all sorry to see daylight.
It was something of a miserable i-..- to Isla
Blanquilla, another of Venezuela's 11-1. islands.
Unwisely we had selected the day that, by forecast,
had the lightest wind of the whole week. In the event,
it started with no wind at all and stayed that way until
nearly midday. Even then there was scarcely enough
to fill the sails and we had to motor-sail nearly the
whole way. To make matters worse a most uncomfort
able cross sea was running. At least the autopilot was
The only highlight of the passage was when we
caught a tuna. The fridge was already filled to burst
ing with produce from Porlamar and was far too full to
take the whole fish. But I didn't want to leave it out
under the full force of the sun. So I cleaned it, behead
ed it and cut it into steaks, despite the ever-present
lumpy and irregular seas. Much blood, mess and guts
By late afternoon some low-level cloud rolled in to
reduce visibility just as we approached land. The wind
increased to a respectable 18 knots or so, just as it
was time to lower the mainsail.
We anchored in Playa Caranton, Blanquilla and
stayed there for over a week. What splendid isolation!
What brilliant turquoise waters! What a contrast to
the overcrowded and noisy anchorages farther east!
Once or twice a day we would jump into the quiet
waters for a swim or a snorkel. No need to launch the
dinghy; abundant coral reefs were within easy swim-
ming distance as Skybird lay at anchor. Some of the
coral seemed to be in better condition than any we had
yet seen this year, though much was also brown. Tiny
fish were plentiful but there were very few large ones.
On our first full day there, the Guarda Costa called
round and tied up alongside. Five of them all came on
board, leaving i 1. I i. 1 .... .n on their
own boat. The' I i .,, I I.. II .. Iwe con
versed with our minimal Spanish and their minimal
English. They checked our ship's papers and pro
duced a long list of safety equipment: EPIRB, GPS, fire
S........ .. etcetera; enquiring after each item and
SI .... .I II n their list. Their presence on Blanquilla
:i -- Ided sense of security since every visiting
-,.111. I .1 will also be checked over in the same way,
and would never be allowed a return fishing permit
should any problem arise.
Sometimes we had the anchorage to ourselves;
another yacht came in for a couple of nights. Some
nights, fishermen with thei: ii; -- ;;1 anchor
nearby. Ti, ,i 1 us I.. .. ... would
chatter .. i .I i. ... boat to boat, while they ate
their evening meal at dusk or when they departed
After a week or so we moved on to Playa Yaque where
the holding is better, though it can roll in a northerly
swell. This is a white sand beach featuring two palm
trees. For us the place held happy memories: last year
a host of parrots had assembled over the two palm
trees on Christmas morning, screaming their very
unconventional Christmas carol as they feasted on
some delicacy that they had discovered amongst the
fronds. We had also beei. 1 1, .1, 11 r our collection of
shells and edible "reef .1. I -i., and the festive
season was crowned by an invitation by the Guarda
Costa to their New Year party back at their base.
From Playa Yaque we could also visit Americano
Bay. This is an idyllic spot with a tiny circular bay and
a picture-perfect sandy beach. There are giant fossils
of shells and a rock arch. Above stands the ruin of an
isolated holiday home built by an early flying enthusi
ast. (An American, of course, hence the name of the
bay.) It might be possible to anchor a small yacht in
the bay, but for us the chance of a wind shift in such
an enclosed spot wouldn't justify the risk. Instead, we
took a picnic and a bottle of wine up by dinghy.
Swarms of tiny black flies threatened to spoil our per
fect lunch, but we picked a breezy spot to sit down
and made the best of it. A gigantic bird (I think he was
a Crested Cara-Cara) came to inspect any crumbs that
we might have left, while we went for a swim in the
We stayed in Blanquilla for a few more "green-flash"
sunsets, a few more dawns breaking over the palm
trees and an excellent view of the total eclipse of the
moon. Eventually we tore ourselves away from what
has always been our favourite island of all.
Next month: A last cruise in Venezuela before head
ing back to the UK.
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SART .ACCESSORIESVli 1 ).
Cruising the Northeast Coast of Venezuela:
IS IT SAFE?
by Elaine Conklin
When my husband Chuck and I left Porlamar, Isla
Margarita, we were planning on sailing directly to
We checked out on Monday, July 16th, but hey, this
is Venezuela and, surprise, neither the diesel man nor
the water man came on Monday as promised. On
Tuesday they did come and we prepared to leave the
July 18th: We departed Isla de Margarita at 6:30AM
in calm seas and light winds. The plan was to head
toward the Venezuelan mainland, run eastward along
the coast overnight and head offshore when daylight
came. We hoped to skirt any banditos who may be
lurking in the shadows. In addition, Trinidad was sup
We were also going against the current which was
only allowing us to make two and a half to three knots.
We were only making two miles per hour! We realized
we would be unable to get to Trinidad before
Christmas at that rate, so we decided our only option
was to head for the coast, get out of the current and
anchor in the closest port, Carupano, for the night.
Once we were out of the current at 7:00PM our speed
picked up to five knots. We knew we would not be able
to anchor before the sun set, but with the help of
radar, GPS, and the Captain vm,,N r computer pro
gram we were able to anchor I 8:00PM. So our
motto is never to leave home without these items!
July 19th: This was the day we expected to be in
1: .. j a, 4
r -^ ,.'
posed to get a weather system late Thursday evening
and we wanted to get there before it hit. Note: This is
the accepted route to take according to other cruisers
who have recently made this trip. There had not been
any problems reported in the last couple of years that
we were aware of, but that could be because very few
boats run close to the coast anymore.
We left feeling confident that we would make our des
tination as planned. But again someone else had a dif
ferent idea. We had checked the autopilot out before we
left Porlamar and it worked fine, but two hours out it
would work for five minutes then quit, which meant we
would have to hand-steer the 130 miles to Trinidad.
o0/rrom o10rrom loirrom
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-. 4 I -
The Peninsula de
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is a spectacular
cruising ground and
S a useful harbor
hopping route for
boats heading east
-. against wind and
Cl. current. But a spate
S yachts were report
ed here from 2001
until last year. Is it
safe to go back?
Trinidad 1- t 1-.; --y away and it would be
tiring to : ... I -I I. .I I .. .... one leg. We decided to
hop along the coast and moved east five miles to
Puerto Santos. We had been in this harbor years ago
and were happy to see the water was no longer a red
color from the fish factory that is there. A couple of
local boys came by to see if we needed .. 1,...,. and
they were able to obtain ice for us. The ..... I their
boat was La Buena Fe.
July 20th: We decided to stay here an additional
day to rest up for the next leg of our trip, which would
be an overnight. The sardines were running so many
fishing boats came and went during the day and night.
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The crew of La Buena Fe ('Good Faith'), who greeted
us at Puerto Santo
July 21st: This morning we moved ten miles east up
the coast to Ensenada Medina, a beautiful bay with a
gorgeous beach covered with grass-thatched huts.
Many locals were taking advantage of the sun and
surf. A couple of guys tried to get us some ice but were
unsuccessful. We gave them enough money to buy a
lunch anyway for their effort as they looked like they
had not eaten in a while. At 5:00PM we pulled the
anchor and headed east. By staying within a mile of
the coastline we could make five to six knots and so we
moved slowly, taking 30-minute turns hand-steering.
July 22nd: Around midnight we rounded Cabo Tres
Puntas, which was a little disconcerting because a
group of fishermen was fishing off the point and from
a distance it looked like a ii. .. ,, -1. i ..I ,,,- GPS
and radar were telling u- I.11 .. I. e got
close enough ,,i ii i , i 1 .,,,,. I oatswith
very bright lig .1 '.11 ~ daylight
come and at 8:30AM we put down the anchor in Punta
Pargo, which is a dramatically beautiful bay sur
r .. i ii ... I .... . ,. IIthas a
Ik 1 i 1 i . . .. . 1. .. I only be
reached by the water. The water is clear and clean and
we anchored in about 20 feet.
Immediately we were approached by two local fish
ermen, Luis and Carlos, who wanted to be helpful.
They obtained some ice for us from one of the big fish
ing boats and some fresh fish for dinner. We gave
them most of the Bolivars we had and they were sup
posed to bring some change. Of course we never saw
i and in addition we had given them a bot
S ...... and a bottle of Coke. They also offered to
escort us around the next point and into Trinidad, in
case of bandits, for a modest sum of US$5,000! We
declined and they left. Other local boats came by, with
guys asking for ... ..- i..... such as Coke, food,
caps, T-shirts or ... I.... I a sore throat. Others
wanted us to buy more fish. We gave out many candy
bars, smiles, milk, cough medicine, etcetera. We had
not planned to stop in these places, otherwise we
would have come better prepared.
Continued on next page
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Continued from previous page
July 23rd: Chuck wanted to stay in Punta Pargo one
more day to get rested up for the next leg of our jour
ney. He also did not want to arrive in Trinidad on a
Monday, 1....1 ... Customs and Immigration would be
very busy .11 11. weekend. So we rested and rested
and read and rested and read. We had not seen our
friend, Luis, again but late in the afternoon he came
roaring into the harbor and had decided we needed to
pay him more money for "protection". We told him we
had no more dinero (money), which was basically true:
we had about three dollars worth of Bolivars left.
Chuck gave him another bottle of rum and he seemed
happy with that. But around midnight, in the rain, he
decided he needed another bottle of rum in payment
for his "protection" services and came to our boat. We
declined to giv i..... ..... 1.... 1- and Chuck had to
get very stern .I 11. .....I I... .11 left and we spent a
bit of an uneasy night but without further incident.
We nicknamed Luis "The Shyster".
July 24th: At 6:30AM we pulled the anchor to start
our last leg to Trinidad. We both were a bit anxious
about this part of the trip but by 9:OOAM we had
.... I I I ,,i . ,ii ; and turned toward Trinidad
,,I i ,,, .. I,,, I ,I each mile we covered, we
relaxed more and realized that all those prayers that
we had sent up the last few days had been answered.
We arrived in Trinidad under our own power and with
good memories of the northern coast of Venezuela's
Peninsula de Paria. It helps if you can speak a little
Spanish. You do not have to be fluent, but a few words
make everyone more rela I .. '.- a fewwords,
the Venezuelans will go ..I I 1, ,, I help you.
In each of the anchorages many of the local boats
stopped by to welcome us and to see if we needed a
mechanic, water, gasoline or diesel. A couple of times
Above: Beautiful Ensenada Medina is popular with
Below: The fishing village at Punta Pargo (Snapper
Point) is set in forest encircled bay. Parrots and
monkeys are often seen in the trees, and on the point
there are small sea caves to explore
. .. . :: : : : : ll~iiil i1..... '. ...
we were able to buy ice. Many of the people we met
said that they do not understand why we cruisers are
not coming anymore. We explained about the attacks
on the yachties. They told us that the police and
Guarda Costa have jailed many of the perpetrators
and the coast is safe now.
Some may say we were crazy to stop in these places
but sometimes circumstances dictate your agenda.
Maybe we were just lucky that :. 1.,,,,. diversee hap
opened, but we encountered onl I' ... I1i people and
saw probably for our last time the beautiful north
eastern coast of Venezuela. Our adventure turned out
to be a positive one. It is unfortunate that a few peo
ple make it unsafe, or perceived unsafe, to travel to
certain areas in our world.
So, should you now travel the northern coast of the
Peninsula de Paria? Our research of reported docu
mented incidents in the area we traveled revealed the
following as obtained from www.noonsite.com.
January 2001: a boat called Dutch Concrete was
attacked off the north coast of Venezuela. (A report
received by Compass gives the date as December 27th,
2000, anchored at Puerto Santos.)
March 31, 2001 S/V Loma was attacked off the
north coast of Venezuela. (A report received by
Compass gives the date as March 20th, 2001, at sea
near Cabo San Francisco.)
January 10, 2003 a Spanish sailboat was attacked
off of Cabo Tres Puntas. (A report received by Compass
gives the date as January 8th, 2003.)
In 2004, S/V Chouans was attacked in or near
February 28, 2004, S/V Myriad was boarded in
The www.safetyandsecuritynet.com reported a
demand for money from a boat four miles off the
Peninsula de Paria near Carfpano in July of 2006.
So should you travel the northeastern coast of
Venezuela? Only you can make that decision.
Chuck and Elaine Conklin have cruised the Eastern
Caribbean for 13 years aboard S/V Manana.
Editor's note: Although no incident reports have been
recently received from the Peninsula de Paria, accord
ing to Melodye Pompa of the Caribbean Safety &
Security Net after five months with no reports of violent
criminal activity against yachts in Venezuela, two were
recorded earlier this year, one at Isla Coche (lust a few
miles south of Isla Margarita) and one at Mochima on
the mainland (82 miles west of Carupano).
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h- Beast had to come out. It had shorted out three months ago, and the
i ptain was in a foul mood from all those cold showers ever since. Now we
re in the boatyard, and a new water heater was THE big project -there
always seems to be at least one BIG project.
Being a practical type of person, I measured the space over the engine where the
old Beast sat and checked the Port Supply catalogue for possible candidates for its
replacement. Yes, a nice white six-gallon model would just slide over the engine and
plop right into the space with room to spare.
But the Captain was not having a midget. Nothing would do but the original 11
gallon model. As you can see in the photo, there is no room to spare there. So with
no small amount of trepidation, we called our boat's manufacturer, Catalina, for
advice on how to get the new water heater in.
by Betty Fries
Victory! At last the beast is extracted without destroying the yacht after all
-and relegated to the trash can
We were greatly encouraged when the technician asked us for the boat's hull num
ber! He assured us that the water heater was a retrofit item and could be replaced
through the rear access door in the starboard stern cabin if you took the door's sur
rounding frame off. What a relief, even though there were at least 27 hoses and 75
wires going through that particular space behind the water heater. But on a closer
look, it became obvious that there was no way that the heater could be brought out
toward the stern. The Tech must have overlooked the fact that, unlike the new
Catalinas whose hulls stay straight from the beam to the stem, the 1989 Catalina
42 narrows toward the stern. Even with all the hoses and wires removed, the side
to-side space was less then the 16 inches required.
So now we're in the boatyard, and Desi the diesel mechanic is gazing mournfully
at our problem. In his opinion, the engine will have to come out to get the new water
heater in in one piece -unless we want to cut another access panel in the cabin
wall. I ..... .1i i i. ... but, since we have a rule about making new holes in the
boat, II . ..... I i i i, to come out.
Without much enthusiasm, we started the proc -- I I.- ..... ". the engine.
Deja vu: the same process we'd gone through the ; I I i. .. 11. BIG project
was installing new motor mounts. We hadn't gotten very far before we took a break.
As I sat there staring absently at the water heater, my eyes wandered toward the
access panel in the port stern cabin -the one right in front of the heater -the one
opening into the space between the engine and the heater -the big one. Not daring
to hope, I grabbed a tape measure. The access was enough for the heater, the sur
round did not have to be removed, and only a few boat parts had to come out to
make enough room for the heater to go through and back into the space!
With some blood, a good deal of sweat, and some extra help, the Beast was out and
in the trash can with its various rusty pieces hanging off and the Captain grinning.
A little too soon.
Of course the floor and s I,. ..... i i 11, . i, ,ter were rotten and had
to br r i 1 -' t .;, i i,,,. .. I ,, ,,, i epoxied to retard water
1.;,.. ii, .1,i .111 ..1 i, i 1. .... I he floor in back of it where
II, i -i, I I i.... -I 1 11 i .. to match that height, and
everything was screwed into place. Very nice.
With some blood, a good deal of sweat, and a couple of good whacks, the new heater
was r... I. I .. 11. ., but it refused to slide back into its hole. With the new floor
raised i i i i I. er was now too high to fit under the hips formed by the two
back cabins! Protesting, the heater comes out, the floor and stringers come up and are
whittled down. Everything goes back in -although not quite as pristinely as the first
time. After all, it's hot in Trinidad and patience does run short after awhile.
The really good news is that the Captain's temper has improved with the return of
e were in one of our favorite anchorages, you know the picture: lee side of one
f the smaller islands, clear water, g, I 1. 1 1... .1... .1 11 ..
nice sandy beach, nearly deserted I i i ......
That's why I'm not telling you lot where it is, because next time we go -.111.
to share it with more than the one other yacht that was anchored 150 meters away.
This was the setting for an outbreak of serial stupidity, but the story also has a
S which should be taken seriously by many of you.
1. several days on the boat a shopping expedition was necessary, so we
launched the dinghy a -..11 .... as I do from congenital idleness, it was decided
not to go through the :...... i i fitting the outboard. Instead, my wife, Jeanette,
who likes rowing, did the honours. Thus, duly equipped with our backpack we
arrived on the beach, hauled up the dinghy and set off for the village about a mile
and a half away.
by Christopher Price
The shopping facilities had improved since our last visit and inevitably we ended
up with more provisions than originally intended. As always, the heavier, larger
items went into the backpack which was soon full, but we still had four well-laden
carrier bags. Clearly, ice-cold refreshment was needed and, after the beer disap
peared rapidly, we decided to stay for lunch at a new restaurant overlooking the
fishing harbour. A glorious day, beautiful scenery, nice food it's what cruising is
all about, isn't it? Obviously, it could only go downhill from here -and it did.
First, we had to hump all the shopping a mile and a half back to the beach (taxis
don't exist on this island). Initially, I wore the backpack and carried a bag or two,
but the handles were cutting Jeanette's hands more than mine, so she took over the
pack and I carried the rest. On arrival at the beach we found that the tradewind had
increased significantly, but as our yacht, Hummingbird, was anchored directly
downwind from the beach, it could only help.
We stowed some of the bags, the dinghy was launched, Jeanette climbed into the
bow, the rest of the shopping was loaded and I pushed off, jumped in and grabbed
the oars. Halfway to the Hummingbird we got out of the lee of the beach and I
stopped rowing as the wind carried us along at a surprising speed. All that was
needed to keep us on course was the odd touch of the oars. I then turned the dinghy
round so that we would come up to the ship with our bow into the wind. As we
approached the port quarter I shipped the oars and stood up to grab a stanchion.
Think ci)ouLi lumblingi
LL'illi i( LL'Ie SQL i eeze-LbuclCke
(cs ilhe p(Ic ic sels il
Unfortunately. I completely underestimated our speed through the water and was
pulled out of the dinghy, which then carried on downwind at a speed undiminished
by my involuntary disembarkation. Hummingbird's freeboard is at least five feet and
there was no way in which I could easily haul myself up onto the deck. Therefore,
shouting to Jeanette to throw the dinghy anchor over the side, I subsided gently into
the water and swam round to Hummingbird's stern steps.
Unfortunately, as Jeanette deployed the brand-new dinghy anchor she failed to
notice that I had failed to make the bitter end of its line fast to the dinghy. The
anchor and rode went over the side and Jeanette carried on towards the horizon.
At this point we learned the wisdom of our original decision to buy an Avon
1....1. Furnished as they are with large solid rubber rowlocks they are the only
,II .1 .i i dinghies that can take long wooden oars. Therefore, they can be rowed
'.;-1 ...t t--, -i-.- ;1 -;;;- -lt, and this Jeanette proceeded to do. Ten min
... -... 1 I I and the shopping were aboard.
So why have I gone public about my ineptitude and stupidity? It is because, at
sometime during the night I lay awake thinking about the afternoon's brief and far
cical performance. What if I had been wearing the heavy backpack instead of
Jeanette? Worse still, what if I had -as intended -managed to stcr th- -- -1.
dinghy and Jeanette had lost her 1--..;-- n;-1 -n.- --- -r the side? .... .. .
15 to 20-pound backpack when 1.. ...... I II ...I L choppy sea may not be
quite as easy as you imagine.
And yet, many of us seem incapable of setting off ashore without having a back
pack strapped on. Larger ones often have additional chest or waist straps; just think
about fumbling with a wet squeeze-buckle as the panic sets in!
"Ah!" you say, "My backpack is usually either empty, as .1, or only half
full as we come back. It holds a lot of air and will help to I ... .1 I Sure, face
down as you struggle to get it off.
Backpacks are a convenient and comfortable way of carrying heavy shopping. But
if you fall in while carrying one it could, quite simply, kill you. Common sense and
logic dictate that when climbing into or out of your dinghy, or riding in it, you should
never, ever wear a backpack.
Some boring (?) people go further and say that in all such circumstances, we
should all wear life-jackets, or vests. Come on, we're beyond that sort of nonsense
we're cruisers, aren't we?
Christopher and Jeanette Price spend nine months a year living on their 50foot
catamaran, Hummingbird. They cruise the Caribbean between the Virgin Islands and
Grenada but occasionally break out of their rut to make side trips to places such as
Jamaica and Cuba.
3. GRENADA MARINE
ELESACL AKI NGI
Nth $.llbith?6. 36
0 aYj up 10 laUrIT
Gear & FUders In Slodk 6 All i,11.rgq rl SIOLK
DE BUSH DOCTOR
Herbal Plants of Jamaica (Bush Teas, Bush Baths, Flavourings and Spices)
by Monica Warner. Macmillan Caribbean. 2007. Paperback, 184 pages, color photos
throughout. ISBN 978-1 4050-6566-5. 8.25.
Okay, lets get that over
with first -of course
Cannabis sativa is include
ed. Its described on pages
42 and 43 in the section on
major herbs". But in addi
tion to a rational descrip
tion of ganja and its vari
ous uses, legal and illegal,
this book is an excellent
introduction to approxi
mately 70 species of useful
plants that grow wild and
cultivated in Jamaica.
Many of the species
described also grow
throughout the Antilles.
Jamaican society has
retained a particularly
vibrant tradition of folk
herbal medicine. The
cache of native plants and
practices used by the
was, over the centuries,
successively enriched by
contributions from the
peoples of Africa, Europe
and Asia. Today the cus
tom of "bush medicine"
not only endures, it is
gaining scientific recogni
tion. Many natural reme
dies, tonics, cosmetics
and flavorings that were
for generations the only
available choices for most rural Jamaicans are now becoming sought after alterna
tives to their commercial chemical kin.
Author Monica Warner was born and educated in Jamaica where she earned a
Bachelor's degree in Chemistry and Zoology at the University of the West Indies. Her
thorough and clear descriptions, accompanied by two or three high quality color
ih-t-'r h of each plant, allow easy identification of species which are known by
I' ,, .... anes on other islands.
HerbalPlants of Jamaica is a welcome addition to the array of field guides already
on your Caribbean bookshelf.
Available at bookstores or from www.macmillan caribbean.com.
BY OUR EXPERIENCED STAFF
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Do Dolphins Ever Sleep? 211 Questions and Answers About Ships, the
Sky and the Sea, by Pierre-Yves and Sally Bely. Sheridan House 2007.
Paperback, 312 pages, color illustrations throughout. ISBN 1-57409-2400.
Here's just the book to
pick up when you've finally
put away the repair manu
als and want to flick
through something a little
than the latest I
1 novel". Or when you want to
settle an argument. It will
also make you the source of
all knowledge or at least
provide a conversation
starter or two at the next
y happy hour or potluck.
Why does a dinghy slide
backward as we try to climb
out? Why are cold seas
green and warm seas blue?
Why do barnacles attach
themselves to boat hulls?
Why don't the strands of a
rope untwist? Whether
these are I,,,- been
pondering I .... have
S.....never thought about before,
Do Dolphins Ever Sleep? has
the answers to these ques
tons and more.
French engineer and
sailor Pierre Yves Bely writes in the book's preface that the idea for this book
came to him while sailing across the Atlantic: "...on a long passage, our curiosi
ty has all the time in the world to develop. In my case, curiosity prompted ques
tions about the sea, the sky, the subtleties of marine meteorology, the voyages of
ancient navigators, the huge freighters passing by, the hydro and aerodynamics
ol ,i .i, ii.. i ad so many other things I wanted to know more about.
I ,,,I .....II.,,, ,,, rT small, onboard library and talking with crewmembers
and others in port, the answers I was able to come up with were vague and
Bely embarked on a voyage of discovery, consulting with scientists, engineers,
historians and sailing professionals, a research project that resulted in this read
able reference book. It was first published in French, by Editions Gerfaut, and
the Sheridan House edition has been fluently translated by Pierre Yves' wife,
Sally, an American.
So the next time you wonder why soap works poorly in sea water, or why thun
derstorms rarely occur over the open sea, the answer will be at your fingertips if
you have a copy of this book on your shelf.
Available at bookstores or from www.sheridanhouse.comr
Ls5 QarcT A Ls at
I'm Luke, Chef de Cuisine and new manager of
Whisper Cove Marina (www.whispercovemarina.com)
in Clarke's Court Bay on the south coast of Grenada.
It's with .t 1 i re that I offer you this recipe
from my 1 I I ...I.-i cookbook written especially
for people living on boats.
I hope you enjoy -and come to visit me.
1.5 kg octopus (3 pounds)
3 Tablespoons olive oil
4 onions, peeled and finely chopped
3 carrots, peeled and sliced
2 Tablespoons flour
3 tomatoes, chopped
black peppercorns or cayenne to taste
1 Tablespoon coriander seeds
1/2 litre white wine (2 Cups)
1/2 litre water (2 Cups)
300g potatoes, cubed (2/3 pound)
3 garlic cloves
Preparation time: 10 minutes
Cooking time: 1 hour
Octopus is a muscular mass without bone (except
for its beak). At its first cooking, use no water or fat,
and do not boil it -it would become irremediably rub
bery. It's imprc-- bI- fr---in, fr hours.
Cut octopus i.. ... I I ... ij put in colander
to drain. Brown the well-drained cubes in a heavy fry
ing pan without any water or fat, until a dark red color,
but do not burn. Remove cubes from pan and reserve.
Add olive oil and onions to the pan and let simmer
on slow heat until onions are translucent.
Add carrots and tomatoes, dust with the flour, and
let simmer 3 minutes.
Add pepper, coriander, white wine and water. Bring
to boil, stirring with a whisk to mix any possible
lumps. Reduce heat, add cubes of octopus and pota
toes and let simmer 25 minutes.
Sprinkle with finely chopped garlic and parsley, then
"Bon appetite "
Breadfruit 'Oil Dong'
Breadfruit and coconut milk are the essential ingredients in Grenada's national dish, Oil Down, but here in
Trini-land, where we omit the Spice Islanders' callaloo and salt meat from the recipe, we call it "oi 1 .".
Breadfruit is usually c i I I .1 I- ..pe. It will be firm, not soft, but not green either. i. .. bread
fruit is ready for cooking .- i,, ,.. ...- "full" when you knock it with your knuckles it should sound
hollow, like testing a melon. To keep a breadfruit from ripening, it can be covered in a bowl or bucket of water,
but this will only save it for a few days. If you have the space in your freezer, just peel and freeze. When it is very
ripe (soft), you can wrap it in foil and bake it in the oven.
To make coconut milk, grate the white flesh of a brown coconut using a cheese grater (the fine side will pro
duce better results). Add one cup of warm water to the grated coconut, put in a bowl and squeeze with your
hands. Put results in a fine muslin cloth, twist into a ball and squeeze as hard as you can. The first results are
the thickest, called coconut cream. The second and third cup of water you add and squeeze results in coconut
milk which is thinner.
Here's how to make Trinidad 'oil dong'.
1 Tablespoon soya oil
1 medium onion, chopped
3 cloves of garlic, minced
1 good sized breadfruit, peeled and chunked
1 coconut, grated and milked
Salt and spice to taste
Sliced fish (optional)
Parsley and chadon bene to garnish
Heat oil i' 1 .- i It; saute onion and garlic until
clear. Add , II.,I coconut, salt and spice. Sliced
fish could be steamed on top as it cooks. Cover and
simmer over low heat until breadfruit is cooked. When
breadfruit breaks with a spoon, it is done. Sprinkle
with some chopped parsley and chardon bene and let
stand five minutes before serving.
\t -AC 'S
In addition to our famous pizza we offer
seasonal specialties and fresh baked goods.
Open from 11:00am to 10:00pm.
Closed on Mondays
Situated in Admiralty Bay, Bequia between
the Frangipani and Plantation House.
For Reservations: VHF Ch68 or Tel: (784) 458 3474
RESTAURANT & BAR
BEACHSIDE TERRACE YOUR SPECIAL PLACE
IN GRENADA FOR FUN AND FINE FOOD
Monday: Grenada Buffet & Crab Races
Wednesday: Steel Band Music
Friday: BBQ Dinner & Extempo Calypsonian
Open Daily 6:00AM 10:30pM
Located at The Flamboyant Hotel
Information & Reservation: (473) 444-4247
The home of Grenada's Longest Happy Hour!!
4PM-7PM & 11PM-midnight (50% off all drinks)
OPEN until 3AM Daily
Cocktails *** Relaxation *** Parties ***
Pool *** Sports TV ***
Located directly on the beach at The Flamboyant Hotel
Tel: (473) 444-4247
on the widest selection and the
best pnces in Grenada at our two
conveniently located supermarkets
Whether its canned goods, dairy
products, meat, fresh vegetables
or fruits, tolletnes, household goods,
or a fine selection of liquor and wine,
The Food Fairhas it all and a lot more
JONAS BROWNE & HUBBARD (G'da) Ltd
PORTHOLE RESTAURANT & BAR
& Shoreline Mini-Market
We serve breakfast,
lunch and dinner
Phone (784) 458-3458
A friendly atmosphere where you can sit and meet people.
Admiralty Bay, Bequia
Noelina & Lennox Taylor welcome you!
." Gourmet Ice Cream
'1 / ~Fresh Yogurt
Fresh Fruit Sorbets
'/- Qts. & Half Gal. Tubs
S Tel: (784) 458 3041
New Location at Gingerbread Cafe
8 am to 5:30 pm
Friday until 8:45 pm
Tel: (473) 440-2588
9 am to 5:30 pm
Friday & Saturday
until 7:00 pm
Tel: (473) 444-4573
Didier and Maria
Sails & Canvas (repairs & fabrication]
located at Carenantilles dockyard
Open Monday to Friday 8- 1 2am 2-6pm
Saturday by appointment
tel/fax: (596] 596 74 88 32
Full Service Station:
-Fuel/Diesel/Gas Laundry Call Station
-Grocery Ice Cigarettes Cold Drinks
Breakfast (Coffee, Croissants) Fishing Items
Conveniently located at
Carenantilles Dockyard LE MARIN
Tel +596 74 70 94 Fax +596 7478 08
Mobile +696 29 28 12
Open 7am to 7pm Sundays: 7am to 1pm
Leading Bmke in ihe french island
Th6 most vid ipealid web si in r Caribbean
op i ioah USnd European Markets
Benefit fom currency rcte
There is good insurance,there is cheap
insurance, but there is no good cheap
insurance.You never know how good your
insurance is untilyou have a claim.
Then, if the claim is denied
S or unsatisfactorily settled,
it is too late.
I have been in the insurance business
40 years, 36 with Lloyds, and my claims
settlement record cannot be beat.
Fax DM Street
Iolaire Enterprises (353) 28 33927
or e-mail: firstname.lastname@example.org
In the July .. -1 ';;i- t i :.- : of Compass there were
articles by Brn I i. I I I .-.. ig cruisers against run
ning from hurricanes. H i i -1 .,,. i. .i as the
conventional wisdom i i I i,, ... Luis
trashed, beached, or sank some 1,200 boats in St.
Maarten. Which amounts to putting out your anchors,
removing your sails, and retiring to the nearest shelter
with insurance policy in hand until the storm passes.
A certain Norseman 40 catamaran was a case in
point, having been capsized, dismasted, bows ripped
off, a transom removed, and a walk-through hole
opened in the port side by Hurricane Luis. The insur
ance payout was US$240,000 and it was sold for the
US$5,000 salvage fee. The insurance companies
responded with named storm exclusions, higher fees
and deductibles, hurricane zone exclusions, and a lot
of fine print.
Besides insurance, catamaran owners have several
compelling reasons to run from hurricanes. For exam
ple, catamarans have been known to flip and even fly
during hurricanes, with only a forestay and two side
stays they can easily be dismasted, their molded cabin
windows are incredibly expensive, many have bimini
tops that can't be removed, and most have too much
-i--n-1- to hold at anchor.
ii you may intend to move your boat out of the
hurricane zone every season, you may get caught
short sometime and have to gut it out. I've been
through four hurricanes: Luis (ran), Marilyn (held),
Bertha (on the hard), and Lenny (ran). Depending on
the winds expected, the aerodynamic properties of
your boat, and whether or not you're feeling lucky,
Wrapping the jib sheets around the jib to prevent it
Raising the storm trysail to keep the bow downwind
Securing the mainsail to the boom with dock lines
Cutting the canvas off the bimini top if it can't oth
erwise be removed
If you have a hardtop, angling it down, or cutting it
off A-i 1-i7:.n it t- ti- foredeck net
iI i I. I i,,,j. dropping it, and towing itwell
-1',. si... li ,,11 ,I . i. eryou would
rather not have -. I , i. 1, I ,-. upside-down
and half full of water
Currently there are a considerable number of boats
inside "the zone" from Bequia to Grenada. It seems that
there are a lot of cruisers who would rather avoid the
overcrowding, rain and oil slicks that plague
Chaguaramas, Trinidad, and don't want to face the
piracy and dinghy theft in Venezuela. I plan on staying
in Grenada for the season, unless a Tropical Storm or
hurricane threatens. Then I intend to sail south of
Grenada and drift downwind. The storm track, intensi
ty and sea-state will determine if I move through the
Boca into the Gulf of Paria. It's not as risky as one
might think, considering the storm tracking informa
tion at hand and the nearness of Trinidad. Its a situa
tion in which one can manage risk, rather than doing
your best to secure your boat in a hurricane hole and
then waiting helplessly as a storm bears down on you.
I was in Bequia when Hurricane Dean passed
through and, as it kept on track for Martinique, I
stayed and rode it out on the north side of Admiralty
Bay. Had I been in Grenada as Ivan approached, I
would have been working my way up the Orinoco River
in Venezuela by the time it hit. I expect to get chased
out of Grenada at least a couple of times before the sea
son is over. To avoid being accused o01 I'.. ...1 i
dling, or dawdling about, I'll hang a ..1 -
over the side. Maybe I'll catch a fish.
Karl on Cochi
As with many of the past "Destinations" articles in
Caribbean Compass, I enjoyed reading Ralph Trout's
article "Carriacou: The Back-In-Time Island" in the
S...... It is very comforting to know there
111 I I i left in the Caribbean that have not
catered to (i.e. succumbed to) the "improvements" that
tourism often brings with it. I wish that more of the
other islands I remember from the early '70s had gone
the same route as Carriacou.
I first lived and taught school in Carriacou in 1974
75. My most recent visit back there was in 2002, when
I also stayed in one of the cottages at Carriacou Dave's
Bayaleau Resort mentioned in the article. Based on the
author's experiences in Carriacou it appears that all
the best of what I remember of that "old time" island is
still there and thriving.
Other Caribbean islands could learn a lot from
Carriacou's unique niche in the tourism market. It
really is like visiting family instead of just "going on
vacation" there. The islanders are continuing to pros
per, as they see fit, while sharing what they have with
the rest of the world. So many other islands have fouled
their own nests, AND their cultures, as a result of that
great lure of more tourists and their money. It's nice to
know that the pursuit of happiness in Carriacou is not
directly linked to the pursuit of money, AND that the
people there are happy to share all that with the rest of
Thank you again Caribbean Compass for reminding
me that some of "de island dem" continue to be such
wonderful places. Keep up the good work; I look for
ward to more "Destinations".
Henry E. Tonnemacher
St. Croix, USVI
Congratulations to Keith Smith for his letter in the
August Compass in defense of his former VHF radio
"Funky Net". If that was half as hilarious as his letter,
I am glad that I could not pick it up in Puerto La Cruz
-I would have needed to wear a large, extra
Keith, you have to understand that there are people
out there who do not appreciate what appears to be our
and many others' mutual sense of humor. They con
sider the content of your net to be inappropriate and,
heaven forbid, illegal, simply because you're r---1;
the boat, mate. These people are f-n-l.;;-1 ... ...i I
the GOCC who sit around for a ..1 .. mum-
bling to each other. Then, if they are still compos men
tis, publish a thesis on their thoughts in the Compass.
Should they graduate with top honors they are admit
ted into the inner sanctum of the BOFs Club. These
same people use the VHF channels as they would a
mobile (well, it's free!), talking about all the latest gos
sip and spreading malicious rumors for hours, day
So, matey, get your programme back on the air
having first purchased a submersible hand-held
radio -you never know when these BOFs will board
and keel-haul you, but at least you will be able to
send a distress call. A final advisory: perhaps you
should consider -hn.;- ;t the name of your boat. I
had a name plate ...1 i I my former property back
home; it read Llamedos Cottage. The neighbours
were puzzled and asked what it meant. I explained
that it was Welsh and to translate into English read
the first word backwards!
The Caribbean is supposed to be a fun place, so let's
have it in the face: idle banter, rock and roll, "Good
morning, Porlamar!" -nothing wrong with that for 15
minutes a week. If certain cruisers do not like that, let
them switch channels and churn out irresponsible
gossip, which according to them is totally illegal, but
they persist in doing so seven days a week. So, matey,
in an effort to re-activate you into doing what you
i .,, -, you blast out "Start Me Up" or "My
... -. -' I remember the magic word Llamedos.
In August, as we were preparing to leave St.
Thomas, USVI, for our annual trip to Trinidad's boat
yards, we were approached by two individuals who
wanted to hitchhike down island. This was our initial
experience with boating hitchhikers. The first was a
young lady from South Africa who fit Nigel Harrison's
description of the f.... ..i f hitchhikers to a T
(August Compass). -i ... I I to go to Dominica to
experience the island for several weeks. She had her
passport, an airline ticket out of Dominica and had
taken sailing lessons. Over a two-week period prior to
departure, we met to talk several times. We asked her
to bring ... ..... -i i ..1 wanted to eat and drink
and set & .... I I I .. d with her belongings on
August 20th. She was a delightful young lady, eager
to help and willing to follow the boat's rules. My hus
band, Larry, and I were glad to have her aboard and
share a slice of our boating life.
The second hitchhiker was a man who approached
us on Sunday, August 19. He wanted to go to the
Dutch island of St. Maarten. We were not going to St.
Maarten, but he was willing to make his way there from
St. Kitts which would be our first stop.
Continued on next page
Continued from previous page
He called himself a "citizen of the world" and did not
have a passport or any other common type of identify
cation. He did have a letter from the Swedish govern
ment "rifdin- his citizenship, but lacked the other
types < 1 II i.. i would allow him to use commercial
transportation, so he was looking for a private boat to
hitchhike on. Naturally, a hundred important ques
tions leaped to mind. Having been boarded by various
Coast Guard vessels over the last six years, we could
not imagine how we would be able to explain his pres
ence onboard. Also, would St. Kitts allow him in, since
he could not show evidence of his intention/ability to
leave that country? If not, we would be stuck with him
on the boat!
He said he would phone St. Kitts and talk with
Immigration there and give us a call. On Monday, he
called to say he had spoken to officials in St. Kitts
who assured him that, as a Swedish citizen, he did
not need a visa, and 1. i1. ,, .i.1 there would not be
any problem in the :.. ... oast Guard board
ing. Not being willing to take his word for something
this important, I suggested he have the official in St.
Kitts fax a letter on their letterhead attesting to what
they had told him. We would meet him that afternoon
and make a decision then. He did not come to the
meeting, nor did we hear from him again. We sailed
the next morning.
Boaters, like every other special-interest :-'i;r ''
made up of all types of people in all types .......
stances. It's obviously important that everyone
involved make their expectations clear from the begin
ning to avoid the type of situation described by
Angelika Gruener in June's Compass. After all, we are
into our home. We will have respon
-.I I ii ... mnd their well-being on the open seas
which can be a dangerous place. We need to be
careful, but it doesn't mean we can't be generous if the
circumstances are right.
S/V Forever Young
Does John Smith's strobe light lecture (September
CC Forum) mean that the strobe should be discarded
as an emergency signal and that all life rafts and life
jackets that have them should switch to something
else? That if you see a strobe low to the water you
should assume it is a long line or John Smith catch
ing some sleep and stand clear, not a person in the
water needing rescue? That the various anchor lights
I have used for over two decades at anchor, during
which my yacht has never been hit at night by a ves
sel underway, are not good enough? That a single
hander has special rights while violating Rule 5? That
the nautical world should standardize to what
Venezuelan fishermen do?
But what I '. :-- ..-t .ti- lights in the anchor
age is this: ti -...... ...I I crease the quality of
Some things I read in Caribbean Compass beggar
belief and the September issue took the biscuit.
First, Aubrey Millard (in an article) tells us that he
set off on a 1,200-mile passage from Antigua to Cuba,
with two crew, and with no plans for harbours of
refuge on the way; no compass light; a 20-year-old
pilot book and computerized charts only for St. Croix.
He then does a first-time night entry into
Christiansted Harbor when the pilot book says "it is
imperative that the entrance be made in daylight".
Unsurprisingly he gets no further than Jamaica which
he enters with no charts or pilot book. The Canadian
Navy, whom he says trained him, must be an awe
Next up was John Smith in the letters page. He sin
glehands and admits he can't keep a proper watch,
which is illegal. He compounds that, using flowery
and appealing language, by saying he uses a low
level strobe light at night to make people think he is
a local fishing boat. Also illegal. If anybody knows
engineless John, please tell him the other ways to
It would be easy to think that these two sailors
are stupid but the quality of their writing suggests
they are rather intelligent, they just don't give a
damn about others. I don't have a problem with
people killing themselves, I used to BASE jump. I do
have a serious problem with people who put other
people's lives at risk, whether crew or other seafar
ers. May I politely suggest that they, and others like
them, stop sailing and take up something else.
S/Y Kelly's Eye
While we appreciate your concern for the safety of
everyone at sea, it's only fair to point out for readers
who did not see Aubrey's article that the reason he
made the night entry into Christiansted was to get a
crewmember who'd been badly burned in a galley acci
dent to medical attention as quickly as possible.
Over the years, we have read of -and ourselves
experienced dozens of instances of theft of i,,. i -
and outboard motors in this region. It is an ...i ,I
nate fact of life that, even in our slice of paradise, theft
does occur, and this is an inescapable reality.
Very often, we, and other victims of such inci
dents, have had the stolen items returned to us by
individuals who .1l .-1v came across them, either
"drifting out at . elsewhere, and, in order to
secure return of the equipment, we have had to pay
exorbitant sums of so-calle 1 "-.1--. money". Most
recently, we were charged : -.... the return of
an 11-foot i....1. hours after its steel security
cable was ..i ... our dock. Those unfortunate
enough to ha-- r n;;;-l~ their vessels have paid
considerably :.. I .. running into the many
thousands of dollars.
Equally, over the years, we have on many instances
come across local mariners and fishermen in distress
-on one occasion, reported in your newspaper, a
sinking fishing boat whose crew had been i ...I. .
appalling conditions for nearly 36 hours. I ...
yachts recovered them, altered its itinerary and towed
them safely to Bequia -but did not demand one cent
of "salvage". The act was conducted in the spirit of
good seamanship and in observation of that time
honoured practice of mariner .--.-1.... iher
mariners in distress. This is a I I .. i.. I to
which one would hope any decent human being
would adhere, not just at sea but ashore as well -to
help those in difficulties. After all, if you passed
someone dying in the street, would you ignore them
until they had paid you money?
The truth is that these so-called salvage payments
are little more than ransom money that encourage
theft -because it pays, and pays damned well. No
one minds paying for reasonable actual expenses
incurred in recovering stolen property, but the sad
truth is that it now makes one wonder whether, the
next time that a local boat is seen in distress, we
should be advising our crews to ignore them until sal
vage money has been paid.
Would someone therefore kindly advise how much
should we be charging?
Narendra Sethia, Director
Barefoot Yacht Charters & Marine Centre
St. Vincent & the Grenadines
Dear Compass Readers,
Do you want to make the Caribbean an even better
If you do, please read on.
We are Koen Altena and Erwin Herbert, and as
fourth year marketing students from Holland we are
doing research on the (lower) Caribbean yachting
industry. Our main focus point is the yachting serve
ice sector, meaning yacht storage and mainte
Our goal is to find out what people seek in a good
S. 1..... service area. We are for example r-in. t-
:,, .I if people who are live-aboards have 1.1' i
demands than short-term cruisers. With the results
we can help the .1 :---- .- t- marinas and boat
yards to improve 1n. 1.11 I -1 rvices. In order to
get a clear image of the demands of today's yachters
we are holding a survey and we would like you to par
ticipate in it.
Helping us, and with that the entire yachting sec
tor, is very easy and there might be something in it
for you, too -we are going to give away a cruising
guide to Aruba, Bonaire and Curacao offered to us
by Budget Marine. So if you want to have a chance
to win an ABC cruising guide and are willing to
make the Cari-- ..; ----;. -tt-r -ri1i;-; 2 -1ti-
nation go to 1 .. .i i . i i. . i ... I 1 1
Koen Altena and Erwin Herbert
Dear Compass Readers,
We want to hear from YOU!
Please include your name, boat name or address, and
a way we can contact you if clarification is required.
We do not publish individual consumer complaints or
individual regatta results complaints. (Kudos are okay!)
We do not publish anonymous letters; however, your
name may be withheld in print at your request.
Letters may be editedfor length, clarity andfair play.
Send your letters to:
orfax (784) 4573410
Compass Publishing Ltd.
St. Vincent & the Grenadines
A&C YACHT BROKERS
BOATS FOR SALE
Port de plaisance du MARIN
Independent Boatyard St. Thomas, USVI
47 Stevens, 1981 $ 210,000
44 Beneteau Oceanis, 1994 $185,000
44 CSY walkover, 1978 $ 79,000
42 Hunter Passage, 1995 $159,000
42 Catalina MKII, 1996 $ 121,900
40 Passport Sloop, 1981 $ 75,000
38 Morgan/Catalina, 1996 $ 119,000
37 C&C, 1985 $ 48,600
36 Frers, 1985 $ 48,500
36 Cabo Rico Ketch, 1976 $ 28,000
34 Tartan, 1988 $ 49,000
55 Cheoy Lee LRC, 1980 $329,000
50 Marine Trader, 1980 $149,000
45 Silverton MY, 2003 $ 415,000
42 Hershine Trawler $ 40,000
42 Cruisers Express, 1999 $ 249,000
41 Sea Ray Express, 2001 $ 245,000
37 Fountaine Pajot Power Cat $ 445,000
27 Grady White, 1997 $ 40,000
UII OF VECUU FORSHE *FRICEBLISHME rnIMle
YEAR TPE PRICE
1992 29'i Carbtla Sloop (REDWCEOD) USS 18.000
1999 30'Hendeson 30 (RacingYachl) USS 60,000
1988 30'JeameauSunlht30 USS 40,000
1989 35'Halter- Rassy US$ 124,000
1986 36'Lawanm Toca USS 53,000
1989 36'ResnaeSuperlOStee Sloop US$ 45,000
1977 37'Gin zz EU$ 42.500
1968 39'Cheoy Lee OShore40 US$ 95.000
1978 40'Alaic 40 US$ 70.000
1985 4O'Olshir40(ROEDUCEDIII) US$ 149.000
1987 42'TaChi Mermald42 USS 80,000
1999 43'WaquiezPlolSaloon EUS 247.500
1999 44'Fnngul US$ 240,000
1992 45'Fortna US$ 150,000
1991 0'Claesal Pllothoiu USS 268.000
1987 51'Benteauldylel5.5 US$ 160,000
1995 53'Super Maanmu (RDUCEOM) US1 329.000
1982 53'HaltrasLuxury Cruiser USS 254,000
1994 55'G0sler55 USS 776.000
1973 56'VschMotorYahl LUSS 150,000
1993 36.5'Dean Catamaran (RERCEDIU US$ 99,500
2002 37" Fountai Pajt USS 325.000
1998 47' GSac Caamaran USS 168.000
1980 54' orman Crss Timran USS 295,000
1995 556 Cusmm BuilTriaan USS 350.000
1991 55' LagoonCatamran USS 559,000
1990 72' ARnarine Louobln) Catamaran US$1.190.000
Africa design byOswald
Beckmeyer, built by Z-Craft in
Durban, S.A. Ynmar 2GM20
Zetus manual windlass, many
extras for cruising. Berthed at
Grenada Yacht Club. Contact
Selwyn Tel (473) 4354174
52' IRWIN KETCH Tel (868)
650-1914 E-ml email@example.com
30' ACHILLES SLOOP fiberglass,
built in England 1974.
Attractive wood interior, new
cushion covers, auxiliary pow-
ered by 4 stroke 6hp OB, fast,
excellent liveaboard. Located
St. John, USVI US$10,000 Tel
CATAMARAN ATHENA 38,
1998, very good condition
ready for a fast sale. Just
i : ,- ..,DD E-mail:
33' STEEL CUTTER, MURRAY 1984
Ted Brewer design, 3cyl
Yanmar self-steering, autopilot,
solar, wind generator, water-
maker, SSB, inverter, dinghy,
outboard and much more.
Cruise ready, located in St.
Crok. Just completed 4 year
Caribbean cruise. US$50,000
T-i E nail
CANOUAN STAR Catamaran
12m x 6.6m x 60kg, 2 x 27cv
engines. Marc Espagnon
dei, built by La Griffe Mane.
Revolutionary boat in good
condition and reasonably
priced at US$60K/neg. For more
info call Olliver or Dalli
PEARSON 30 BUILT 1973, new
Yanmar 2GM20, new Awlgdp, 2
jibs, 2 mains, spinnker, TV, CD,
wheel steering, lots more. Good
BOATS FOR SALE I
E-ml nicoal 11 bequia.net
CMS YACHT BROKER
Hallberg Rassy 15' US$350K,
Hallberg 45 P.O.A Barviarian
44' 135Euro. Grand Soleil 52'
US$285K, San Juan 34' 50K,
Vanderstat 40' 139K. Pearson
36" 45K. Custom Ketch 40'
100K, Power Cat 72' P.O.A..
Roger Simpson 42' 86K ,
Craddock 40' 110K, Roger
Simpson Cat 40" 175K,
Trinidad Tel (868) 739-6449
Garcia in 1984. Family boat with
space, grace & pace. Now
needing restoration she is ser-
ously for sale as is, where is, Mng
Carriacou, US$3000 for
details & pictures Tel (473)
MASTS -TURBULENCE GRENADA
has 3 masts suitable for
mono/multihulls. 16-17 & 22
GAS STOVE 4 burner, large
oven, good condition
Size 30x3 x26 ECS1400 Tel
36HP YANMAR OUTBOARD
FRIENDSHIP BAY, BEQUIA
Lovely 1250 sq ft. cottage, 100
yards from beach. 2 master
bedrooms, 1 guest bedroom,
full kitchen, laundry, level with
road no stairs! 12,558 sq ft of
land, fenced with mature
fruit trees. US$320.000, Term
rental available. E-mail
CARRIACOU, ONE ACRE LOTS
and multi acre tracts. Great
views overlooking Southern
Grenadines and Tyrrel Bay
PROPERTY FOR SALE at Bells
Pont, Lower Bay, Bequia.
House and Land. Serious buyers
onl. Sde by owner. Call (784)
456 4963 after 6pm. E-mail lul-
PUERTO LA CRUZ, VENZ. INSUR-
ANCE SURVEYS, electric prob-
lems and yacl-t -1-; -i- TA
Cds Robinson ai. -i
NIMROD'S RUM SHOP, GRENADA
Eggs, bread, cheese, ice on
sale. Taxi service available,
propane tank fill-up,
personal laundry service.
happy Hour every day from 5-
6pm Moonlight party every
full moon. VHF 16
UNDERWATER DIVING SERVICES
ft bags. All undewater services
Tel 473) 537-9193/538-4608
COMPASS POINT MARINA, ST.
THOMAS has deep and shal-
low slips available for long
term, short term and tran-
sient rental. We also have
large lockers, Artists Studios
and Office Space available
at reasonable rates.
Tel (340) 775-6144 E-mail
WATERMAKERS Complete sys-
tems, membranes, spares and
service available at Curacao
and Puerto La Cruz, Venezuela.
Check our prices at
In PLC Tel (58) 416-3824187
CRUISING SAILBOAT 28 -40 fair
to good condition. Project
boat considered. E-mail
WANTED I am 58, male,
retired, fit and looking for a
cruising opportunity for 1 to
3 months in the Nov/Jan
timeframe. Have experi-
ence, am dependable and
easy to get on with. Willing
to share sailing, cooking,
chores and expenses.
Contact Bob E-mail
-AlPTAIN NEEDED -
season Mooring provided or
iveaboard Must have Masters
I[II Your Cla Ad is On-l
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A&C Yacht Brokers
Admiral Yacht Insurance
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Dockwise Yacht Transport Sari Marbnique 13
Dominica Marine Center Dominica 37
Dopco Travel Grenada 15
Down Island Real Estate Carriacou 7
Doyle Offshore Sails Barbados 1/26
Doyle's Guides Caribbean 4
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Flamboyant Beachside Terrace Grenada 41
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Flying Fish Ventures Grenada 7
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HOME RENTAL BEQUIA Private
hilltop home available for rea-
sonable rates this winter from
mid-Nov to before Easter to
casual, flexible and friendly
people. A romantic spit aplus!
No enquiries wanted from
realtors and agents.
. s p -n 0172 E-mail
EC$1/US 404 per word -
include name, address and
numbers in count. Line
nying classified are
EC$20/US$8. Check or
International money order in
EC$ or US$ payable to
Compass Publishing must
accompany order. Deadline
is the 15th of each month,
preceding the month of
issue. Copy received after
deadline will be held for
next issue. Send copy, photo
and payment to: Compass
Publishing, PO Box 175BQ,
Bequia, St. Vincent and the
Fax: (784) 457-3410 or E-mail
DOCKMASTER / ASST. MANAGER
EC$40-60,000 pa (US$15-22,000)
The Marina at Marigot Bay is recruiting a
Dockmaster (male or female) to join our
small team running the most exclusive
Super Yacht Marina in the Caribbean.
Applications are invited from suitably
qualified and experienced persons eligible
for employment in Saint Lucia.
Essential Skills include:
* Customer Relations
* HF Operation
* Yacht and Small Craft handling
* Large Yacht Berthing
* Computer Literacy
Applicants with a minimum of 5 yrs superyacht
or marina experience should contact the
Marina Manager, Bob Hathaway
(+1 758 285 4515),
by email, firstname.lastname@example.org,
by fax (+1 758 451 4276) or in person and
should include a full resume / CV and the
names of two referees. Final Salary will be
dependent upon qualifications and experience.
St. George's Lagoon,
1971... and 2007
by William Pringle
The first time I saw my "perfect boat", Clover a 60-foot English cutter launched
in 1937 she was at the end of the long dock at Grenada Yacht Services (GYS) in
St. George's Lagoon, Grenada. It was 1971. GYS in the early 1970s, before
Grenada's independence from Great Britain, was the yachting hub of the southern
Caribbean, the South Pole in the Windwards to Antigua's North Pole in English
Harbour in the Leewards.
At GYS, the rich and the not-so-rich alike found space at its 1,000-foot dock,
drank strong rum at the Patio Bar, hauled out on either the 200-ton Synchro Lift or
the smaller screw lift, and had repairs done at the competent wood, metal and elec
tronics departments that were in house. It was there that such luminaries as
Michael Forshaw, a harbor pilot for over 40 years, oversaw all haulouts and per
formed many surveys; Bernard Byer, who later became Commander of Grenada's
Coast Guard, performed electronic magic; and Emil, a German ex-pat with a Beaver
mechanical fabricator, could turn a new piston for your diesel.
It was at the Patio Bar that one could hear author/sailor Tristan Jones, who'd just
bought Bingo, arguing with author/sailor Squeaky Street (of olaire, of course) about
the merits/demerits of the yawl rig; Ken McKenzie of the legendary ocean racing
--""""T^HWKL--- f l 'jX ^^^B
The Grenada Yacht Services docks, at lower left, were lined with crewed charter
yachts and an array of cruising boats anchored in the Lagoon, in this 1968 photo
(courtesy The Fletcher Collection)
Herreshoff ketch Ticonderoga challenging Malcolm Horsley of the 1961-built racing
phenomenon Stormvogel and Bob Carson of Gitana IV, which held the Fastnet Race
record for 19 years, to a round-the-island race the next day (Stormnogel won); and
"Professor" Jim Shearston, captain of the 1920's-vintage schooner Shearwater chat
ting with Dave Dana, the yacht designer/builder/guru.
Or on a certain occasion, one could see 11 1n i.t:n i.... --- .-1- i:t '-- it -;
I. i i .i ... .. i i nI I I .. .. i .. . i ..... on it. Any land or reef
was marked in red. It had a wind rose, "wind change" and "spinnaker" cards, and little toy
boats as markers. You moved in turn, and the yacht race game we invented was as corn
petitive as smash face martial arts (you could blanket someone's wind, causing them to
lose their turn), as "Doctor Demento" could attest after the skipper of the schooner Aafe,
standing six-foot seven, took strenuous exception to one of his all too-clever moves.
All members of the boating world could be found. The Baltic Trader boys and girls
from the Jens Juh, Familien and Topaz; the crew of ill-fated Santa Cruz, an Amazon
River schooner, which later sank with only one survivor; the men on the beautiful
local schooners such as the Carriacou-built Yankee Girl You might meet a certain
John Smith, a preppie young American, or Frenchman Bernard Moitessier on
Joshua, or British-born Paul Johnson on Venus, and get differing opinions from
each on the weather, the sea-keeping virtues of the double-ender, and, indeed,
virtues of other natures as well.
Continued on next page
(,-iiS Ro Hr' IouwC Restaluran.I Ba &l Cttp,
S J ..-... I. l L
~. .. .. ^ ".'*....11 ?. l L .i3 F
flx^n8 ^t Ijif~n if^ri g~bmV tVM Bsse l .* ar mwer 'rrtfi i~f-m^r
ST. THOMAS YACHT SALES
Compass Point Marina, 6300 Est. Frydenhoj, Suite 28,
St. Thomas, U.S.V.I. 00802
rf,4r 1 Tel: (340) 779-1660
44' 1984 Tempest Sport Express
Fax: (340) //9-27//
50' 1968 Columbian Sloop
33' 1973 Pearson 10M Sloop, refit, new eng. paint,
40' 1984 Endeavour sloop, Well maintained, ready to cruise,
49' 1979 Transpacific Ketch, Bluewater cruiser, Excellent cond.
55' 1956 Custom Yawl, Excellent charter business, CG cert for 18
27' 1991 Monza, twin Mercs, trailer
30' 1997 Salt Shaker SF, new 250HP Yamahas, cuddy cabin
36' 2002 Custom Catamaran, aluminum fishing cat,w/Tuna Tower
50' 1996 Carver CMY, Cat engs. Low hrs, new electronics
Call, fax or visit our website for a complete list of boats for sale
BV. I YACHT- SALES
Located at Nanny Cay Marina
SAIL 39' Tollycraft Fast Passage Cutter, 2 cab/I hd '83 $125K
64' Haj Kutter Schooner, Square Rig, 3 cab/1 hd '30 $425K 39' Corbin, Ketch CC, 2 cab/2 hd '85 $125K
60'Palomba Pilothouse CC Ketch, 5 cab/2 hd '70 $109K 38' Morgan 38 CC, Sloop, 2 cab/l hd '98 $99K
58' Boothbay Challenger CC, Ketch, 3 cab/2 hd '73 $249K 37' Tartan 3700, 2 cab/1 hd, Upgrades '03 $219K
54' Gultstar 54, 3 cab/2 hd, Luxurious & Spacious '86 $349K 37' Jeanneau Sun Ody. 2cab/1hd Motivated '00 $109K
53' German Frers, Ketch, 3 cab/2 hd '01 $275K 36' S211.0A, 1 cab/1 Qtr berth/1 hd '85 $49K
51' Formosa Cust. Ketch CC, 3 cab/3 hd '80 $199K 36' Tiburon, Cutter/Ketch Icab/lhd Solid Cruiser'76 $47K
50' Beneteau 50, Cutter, 4 cab/1 crew/5 hd '02 $329K 36' Beneteau M362, 2 Cablhd, Lowest on Market '00 $69K
50' Beneteau 50, Cutter, 4 cab/4 hd '02 $219K 35' Beneteau Moorings 351, 2 cab/1 hd '94 $50K
46' Morgan 461 CC, 3 cab/2 hd '82 $87K 35' Beneteau 351 Oceanis, 2 cab/l hd '95 $59K
46'Formosa Peterson Cutter, 2 cab/2 hd '79 $119K 35' O'Day, 2 cab/1 hd, Great Condition '87 $42K
46' Hunter 460, 3 cab/2 hd 2 avail.from '00 $139K 33' Beneteau 331, Sloop, 2 cab/ hd '01 $59K
45'Jeanneau Sun Ody. 3 cab/3 hd '99 $149K 32' Northshore Vancouver 32, SloopCutter, 1cabi hd'87 $125K
45'Jeanneau Sun Ody, 2-3 cab/2 hd '01 $158K
45' Bombay Explorer, 2 cab2 hd World Cruiser '78 $59K MULTIHULLS
45 Hunter Marine Passage CC, 2 cabl2 hd '98 $149K 82' Dufour Nautitech 8cab/8hd Major refit '95 $895K
44' Beneteau 44CC, 2 cab2 hd In Great Shape '94 $189K 46' Fountaine Pajot Bahia 4 cab4 hd, 2avallfrom '01 $370K
44' CSY 44CC, Cutter 2 cab/2 hd, Rduced-Motratad '77 $ 85K 42' Privilege 42, 4 cab/4 hd '00 $276K
44' CSY Walkover CC, 2 cab/2 hd, Great Condition '79 $165K 40'Fountalne Pajot Lavezi, Owner's Version '03 $295K
43' Jeanneau Sun Od. 3-4 cab2 hd 2 avail. from '01 $175K 38' Lagoon 4 cab2 hd, Meticulous owners '01 $239K
42' Dufour Gibsea, 3 cal2 hd, Well Maintained '01 $125K 38' Lagoon 4 cab/2 hd, Meticulous owners '01 $229K
42' Hunter Deck Salon, 2 cabl2 hd, New Listing '03 $199K
42' Tayana V42 CC, 2 cab/2 hd, Loaded '85 $130K POWER
41' Morgan 416 Ketch CC,2 ab2 hd '83 $78K 58' Hatteras Yachtfish 3 cab/3 hd ACGent,40HP'77 $367K
40' Dufour, Sloop, 3calihd Perormanceracercruier '05 $249K 56' Horizon Motor yacht, Immaculate Condition! '01 $690K
40' Island Packet, Cutter 2 cab/2 hd, Well Maimtained'98 $205K 42' Hi-Star Trawler, 2 cab/2 hd '88 $199K
40' Beneteau M405 3 cab2 hd, Loaded '95 $119K 42' Nova Marine Trawler, Sundeck trawler '98 $249K
40' Bayfield, 2 cab/i hd, Ketch, Motivated Sellers '84 $99K 42' Hershine 42 Motor yacht 4 cab/4 head '89 $99K
40' Catalina 400, 2cab/2hd, Great Condition '95 $109K 36' Heritage East 36 2 cab/2 hd, 2 avail from '01 $187K
40' Jeanneau Sun Ody. 3cab2hd, Well Priced '00 $112K 35' Maxum SCR 3500 2 cab/1 head '01 $129K
40' Jeanneau Sun Ody. 3 cabl2 hd '99 $109K 27' Eastern 27 Down East, 1 cab '06 $99K
P.O Box 638, Road Town, Tortola, British Virgin Islands
Tel: 284-494-3260 Fax: 284-494-3535 email: email@example.com
website: www.bviyachtsales.com / Call for a complete list of over 70 boats
YACHT MANAGEMENT SERVICES nd
SKINNERS YARO, CHAGUAIMAS, TRNIDA WI
Tel: (8) 634-4653/ 5344858 Fax: 688 53442659
Contact Frances at dynamlit.@tst.net.tt
Large selection of Yachts & Power Boats
astb eaailabl oo ?@iate
3 Thanksgiving Day. Public holiday in St. Lucia
6 7 Pete Sheals Match Racing, BVI. Royal British Virgin Islands Yacht Club
(RBVIYC), tel (284) 494-3286, fax (284) 494-6117, www.rbviyc.net
7 13 40th Bonaire International Sailing Regatta. www.infobonaire.com
8 Columbus Day. Public holiday in Puerto Rico and USVI
10 War of 1868 Anniversary. Public holiday in Cuba
13 Willy T Virgins Cup Race, BVI. RBVIYC
13 5th YSATT Marine Trades Show, Chaguaramas, Trinidad. (868) 634-4938,
14 Chinese Arrival Dragon Boat Festival Kayak Centre,
Chaguaramas, Trinidad. firstname.lastname@example.org
15 USVI Hurricane Thanksgiving Day (Public holiday in USVI
if no hurricanes occurred)
20 22 Trafalgar Race, BVI. RBVIYC
21 Antillean Day. Public holiday in Netherlands Antilles
21 St. Ursula's Day. Public holiday in BVI
21 Blue Food Festival (local cuisine), Bloody Bay, Tobago
25 Thanksgiving Day. Public holiday in Grenada; boat races
26 FULL MOON
26 28 11th Foxy's Cat Fight multihull regatta, Jost Van Dyke.
West End Yacht Club (WEYC), Tortola, tel (284) 495 1002,
fax (284) 495-4184, email@example.com, www.weyc.net
27 Independence Day. Public holiday in St. Vincent & the Grenadines
28 Independence Day Race double-enders, Bequia Sailing Club
30 Independence Day. Public holiday in Antigua
31 Nov. 3 Guadeloupe Fishing Club Tournament.
1 All Saints' Day. Public holiday in French West Indies
1 Independence Day. Public holiday in Antigua & Barbuda
I D Hamilton Jackson Day. Public holiday in USVI
2 4 7th Triskell Cup, Guadeloupe. www.triskellcup.com
3 Independence Day. Public holiday in Dominica
3 -4 Women's Caribbean One-Design Keelboat Championship, St. Maarten.
St. Maarten Yacht Club/Lagoon Sailboat Rentals, (599)-543-6469,
3 4 IC24 Nations Cup, Tortola. RBVIYC
4 Community Service Day. Public holiday in Dominica
4 18th West Marine Caribbean 1500 sets sail from Hampton, VA to Tortola.
5-11 Triangle Emeraude Rally, Guadeloupe/Dominica. triangle-emeraude
6 Constitution Day. Public holiday in Dominican Republic
8 11 Carriacou Sailing Series. Trinidad & Tobago Sailing Assn. (TTSA),
tel (868) 634-4210/4519, fax (868) 634-4376, firstname.lastname@example.org,
8 16 Heineken Aruba Catamaran Regatta. www.arubaregatta.com
9- 11 St. Thomas Radiology Women's Regatta & Tennis Tournament,
St. Thomas, USVI. St. Thomas Yacht Club, (340) 775-6320,
10 12 North Sound and Back Race, BVI. RBVIYC
11 Armistice Day. Public holiday in French West Indies and BVI
11 St. Maarten Day. Public holiday in St. Maarten
12 Veterans' Day. Public holiday in Puerto Rico and USVI
12 16 Golden Rock Regatta, St. Maarten/Statia. www.goldenrockregatta.com
16 Statia Day. Public holiday in Statia
17 BVI Schools Regatta, RBVIYC
19 Discovery Day. Public holiday in Puerto Rico
22 US Thanksgiving Day. Public holiday in Puerto Rico and USVI
23 25 Course de L'Alliance Regatta, St. Maarten/St. Barths/Anguilla.
24 FULL MOON
24 Round Tortola Race. RBVIYC
25 ARC 2007 sets sail from Las Palmas de Gran Canaria to St. Lucia.
30 Independence Day. Public holiday in Barbados
TBA One Man, One Woman, One Boat Race, Martinique.
TBA 9th Annual Wahoo Tournament, Havana, Cuba. CNIH
All information was correct to the best of our knowledge
at the time this issue of Compass went to press but plans change,
so please contact event organizers directly for confirmation,
If you would like a nautical or tourism event listed FREE in our calendar,
please send the name and date(s) of the event
and the name and contact information of the organizing body to
Read in Next Month's Compass:
Boatbuilding on Guyana's Pomeroon River
Martinique: Ile des Fleurs
Is it Healthier to be a Grotty Yachtie?
... and more!
Continued from previous page
You could find, anchored in a quiet spot, Frank and Elsie on Elsie; they had just
completed a ........ ., ,, 1,at? They were in their late seventies, having
only learned ..i .,1 I ... i.. I and he sailed Elsie around twice again, after
Elsie passed away.
Or you could see Grenada's Premier, Sir Eric Gairy, whispering quietly in the ear
of the convicted American gangster known as Clancy; a well-known drug smuggler
conversing with an LSD-manufacturer-on-the-lam; an assignation made between
two supposedly committed-to-someone-elses for activities later that night when
clandestine footsteps might patter down the dock or the subtle creak of muffled oars
The community of Belmont, where the Lagoon is located, a traditionally tough
neighborhood, blossomed with employment. The best were among the best in the
world, and worked on yachts from Malta to New Zealand: great names such as Baby
Face, Mix-Up, Small Change, Speedy, Stumpy, Panabread and Mousie. Music
sprang from the hillside night and day, reggae, extemporaneous drumming, the
S.1 .... .ning to throb by itself, a mysterious, jungly place, sticky with insects
S. i who-knew what. A time when the Mongoose Gang, Gairy's henchmen,
were on the prowl and people disappeared. Down the road was the Bamboo Bar, run
by the inscrutable Daddy Bull a sometime Mongoose ( .... .. ...I I I. I .'. ,
and purveyor of "tomatoes", the local bush rum and i, I1 1 ... ... J..'"" "I1
Grenada Yacht Services was the unlikely stepchild of the Sunflower Corporation of
southern California, and its managing director, Bill Dunn, had had success in mari
na management at Marina Del Rey. Suffice it to say, Grenada, with its climatic chal
lenges -teredo worm damage, dry rot, wet or windy conditions -and political
volatility were as url 1 .,, 1 .. 1 11 imagined. Yet his mission, natural
ly, was to make as i,,,, i .. .i -I corporation as possible, and he must
have succeeded. In this he was aided by the natural landscape. The lagoon is in an
old volcanic crater, well tucked in on the lee side of the island, and adjacent to the
main town of St. George's. Reefs protect its exposed west side, making the lagoon
waters always tranquil, even in storm conditions (although not in hurricanes). And
the docks were crowded with the finest crewed charter yachts, sometimes rafted two
and three deep on the inner sides, and sardined together stern-to on the outer sides
-the money must have poured in. The chandlery, Bristol Fashion, was packed with
customers, and the Patio Bar was jammed on Friday and Saturday nights, when
they had live music. It almost drowned out the sound of the argument between
Jones and Street!
The whole complex was on dubious land reclaimed from the Lagoon and even the
somewhat run-down aspect of the premises contributed to the charm; without too
much squeezing of the eyes, you were in Herman Wouk's Don't Stop The CarnivaL
There seemed to be a party on some boat every night, or a barbecue on the dock, or
a band at the Patio Bar. But make no mistake: it was all business during the day.
Caulking irons rang from the Syncro Lift, sanders buzzed, and at any i--tn tim- -t
least a dozen guys were aloft in their rigs all over the harbour. Lots I -I i
music -r -ri-l--t f--.ri;-; from scores of radios, while dinghies raced ai .... i i ii.
sheer .. ... i i .. able to race around, it seemed. But one thing you soon
learned: be sure to wear shoes on the dock.
August 1, 2007
I am awakened at 5:00AM by the sound of a pile-driver not more than a hundred
feet away, doing what pile-drivers do. Looking out the window of St. John's Guest
House on the Lagoon, I can see the dredges, the floating crane and the spoils barge.
There is another crane lifting steel sections of the new harbour wall into place, to be
driven down into the mucky bottom and then back filled by one of four busy front
loaders. Lincoln Ross's scrap heap is history. So is the Bamboo Bar. There is no
longer any trace of the old Grenada Yacht Services. Peter de Savary Ltd. have
dredged the area around the old docks, filled along the western shoreline, and will
be developing the old GYS site and a vast expanse around it as Port Louis Grenada
a mega-yach 1 .,,,. ... ... 1. 1..1. .. 1 idential complex.
Is this type of i i i .. i i Let's hope thatthis is notjust another
get-rich quick scheme that makes huge money for foreign developers and local politi
cians, and then leaves Grenada and Grenadians holding the bag up the road. Will the
super rich who presumably will be occupying the villas and mega-yachts have a big dis
connect with the local people, culture and institutions? Or will this turn out to be the
21st-century reincarnation of "the good ole days" of the late 1960s and early 1970s, with
high employment, good humour and great, memorable times for all? Only time will tell.
And what has happened to all those celebrated yachts of yore? Where have they
i i they will have a place to go that again will be called "the Jewel
S email: info@ tradewindscruiseclub.com
S TradeWinds Cruise Club operate a fleet of catamarans across
n EWI six destinations in the Caribbean
We are the fastest growing charter company,
operating TERM CHARTERS, all inclusive, 7 days
We are looking for crew, mainly teams in the form of a Captain and a Chef/Hostess
We prefer couples that are married OR have been living together fr at least a year
The nature of the job is such that the better the understanding and teamwork
between Captain and Chef the more successful your charters will be
Requirements Captain with a Skipper's licence
Chef/Hostess with a basic understanding of cooking
Dive master/ instructor for either the Captain and/or Chef is a plus
We offer full training onsite in the Caribbean
This is a FUN job with great earning potential If you are willing to work hard and
have a positive disposition to life this could be your DREAM job
Anyone with an interest is welcome to apply
If you would like more information about this job or send your CV to us, please
use this email address
or by mail to Bequia Marina, PO Box 194, Port Elizabeth,
Bequia, St Vincent & the Grenadines
Tel St Vincent +784 457 3407 Tel St Maarten +599 5510550
Continuedfrom page 23
The following morning we headed to Petite
Martinique for fuel, then on to Grenada, the south
ernmost of the Windward Islands and the last port
before the long run to the Venezuelan mainland (the
Spanish Main of pirate fame).
About six nautical miles from the northern coast of
Grenada we passed Kick 'em Jenny, listed on our charts
as an underwater volcano. There have been reports of
boats losing buoyancy and i.--'- =1l1-in --:il- traveling
over this three-mile stretch I ...... i -... we were
fresh out of virgins to sacrifice, we took the cartograph
er's advice and skirted Jenny, all the while envisioning
hellfire and brimstone engulfing us in a sea of boiling
water. We didn't see any smoke or bubbles in the area,
but the waves and wind did feel a little peculiar.
The run south in the lee of Grenada was very smooth
and we cruised at 3200 RPM (about 20 knots). We
found overnight 1 1---. i- St. George's Lagoon at the
Grenada Yacht I .I I..I talking with some people
at the club we heard various tales of the pirates that
we were likely to encounter on our trip to Venezuela.
We decided to take our chances. After all, we were
armed! I had my trusty pocket knife and Roy had his
Leatherman multi-tool, which has a bottle opener and
a corkscrew (ust in case we needed to out drink the
pirates). And of course we had our flare gun, the
weapon of choice in all the "cruisers beset by pirates"
literature. We were ready to take on Johnny Depp and
his scurvy band of brigands!
We crossed th- 1,.--;; to Port Louis Marina where
we spent a ..1I I nights waiting for optimum
weather conditions. After some minor boatkeeping and
topping our tanks we began the long voyage home.
Grenada to Venezuela
The voyage from Grenada to Venezuela, about 130
nautical miles of open ocean with four to six foot
seas, was uneventful. We didn't want to rely on our
;1 -.;- for the long trek back t- 'Inr- ritl so we
SI i the nearest reputed ". .1 I .1 Puerto
Santos. We arrived in the early afternoon. As we
motored into the bay, we saw a lot -f t=i :i.- oats
(undoubtedly these .- .... 1 ..
We finally found I. I. I I I I'm using the term
loosely here; itwas actually 1 I. 1 .11 . .. I....
on it with a beat up oldtire i i ,, i I .i ....
fuel drop anchor about 50 yards out and float back to
the rock where the fuel person hands them a pump han-
die and the boat owner fills his tank. Not knowing about
the "anchor and float" procedure, I proceeded to make a
complete I I I ... 11 I ... I .... estically across
several .. I ... I i 1 1 I . I
pu m p i I i i .1 i .I.. I I i I l I
about e.,1. ...I I I .... I .r aid. Two guys
dove under our boat and un-fouled the lines.
After all this fun, we were informed that there was
no more "When will there be more?" we inquired.
"Maniana ,- the predictable answer. Meanwhile, the
teen "pirates" were asking all sorts of questions about
our boat -what horsepower on the engines, how fast
it would go, etcetera. They were fascinated by our fish
finder and GPS chart plotter, the latest model that
looks a lot like a flat screen TV. We invited several of
St. George's Lagoon, Grenada, where we prepared
for the Spanish Main
the kids to come aboard for a closer look. Their uncle,
who remained on the pinero, asked how much fuel we
needed. When we told him we were headed for
Margarita he offered to share his fuel with us and
siphoned about 40 gallons into our tanks. We paid
him 40,000 Bolivars, about US$10. We hope to meet
these very nice "pirate" friends again in the future, as
they come to Margarita often to buy avocados by the
boatload to take back to the mainland.
All fueled up and ready to go, we headed west along the
coast searching fc. ...i .1 ..... i .;;-;- r;. not
wanting to arrive l I ... .. . 11 .I I I ... I I up
the coast about ar i. ... ... .... i outrun a squall
and finally dropped anchor in a cove that had some more
"disguised pirate boats" and not much else. Our plans
were to make do with a cold supper, take turns standing
watch, and resume our journey at first light.
Shortly after we anchored we saw a disreputable
looking old man in a ... 1... 1. rowing toward us,
using only a board for a I I I i introduced himself
and offered any help we :... 1.i 1 We said we would
like some cold beer. He .. I oblem! How about
some roasted chicken and vegetables to go with that?"
"Si, por favor!" Roy and I said in unison. We gave
him some money and he insisted on leaving his iden
tification as security until he returned with the beer
and dinner. The beer was ice cold, the chicken huge
and delicious and there were vegetables and other
goodies on the side. We enjoyed what was possibly the
best meal of our trip while we watched a spectacular
sunset. Our new friend even offered to watch our boat
so we .1 1 i ... much-needed sleep. He was the
night .1 i....... I the little fleet of "pirate" boats.
Roy and I collectively have traveled over most of the
world, and these were the nicest bunch of "pirates"
we've ever met!
Next morning we upped anchor, fired up the 575
horses and headed home at a leisurely 16 knots. You
can see Margarita from the mainland so no major nav
igation skills were involved. We found dock space at the
marina by the Hilton Hotel, checked in with Customs
and Immigration and were home before noon.
Visiting the other islands convinced us that we have
the best deal in the Caribbean here on Margarita
Island. Don't believe everything you read in the
American press about Venezuela. Capitalism flourish
es here -new construction everywhere, bank finance
ing on new cars and houses, and all the other con
sumr .- 1 i.t- lebt to own in America.
And i .. .- i- I there's no place else in
the Caribbean where you can vacation or live as inex
pensively as you can here -especially if you have US
dollars or Euros to exchange for local currency.
Now that we have the boat, Roy can concentrate on
playing with all the lovely ladies and I can do some
serious -i I I-1I' -. My lady mentioned that the first
pound c i i. I .1 will be one very expensive meal.
For more information on Margarita visit my website
www.discovermargaritaislandcom where I have addi
tional photos of our island trip. E mail me at
email@example.com ifyou have
* Aflird.ihIr rates Rliabhl On time
.., .r .'l 1 I % 1. \ P 1 l I
Can Take It
StarPac Courier and Cargo
ll I 11 I ,l II I,, ,.i 1 1' .
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1 s W W Octobe.'
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Yacht Haven Grande Cole Bay Bobbys Marina Rodney Bay Marina St. George' Grenada Marine
Tel 3.407140404 Tl. 599.544.5310 Tol 599 543 71 9 Tel 758452.1222 Tl: 473 435 2150 Tol 473443 1028
For 340 714 0405 Fao 599 544 3299 Fag 599 542 2675 Foc: 758 452 4333 Fox 473 435 2152 Fax 473 443 1038
Prices may vary In St. Thomas, St. Lucia and Grenada as a rexull of cusloms charges and environmental levies.
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