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Cuban Yacht Club Celebrates 15 Years
The members of the Hemingway International Yacht Club (HIYC) of Havana, Cuba,
and its Commodore Jose Miguel Diaz Escrich offered a warm welcome to hundreds
of guests from the Cuban government, diplomats, and delegations from Spain,
Commodore Escrich (at left) receives the fishing rod with which Fidel Castro won
Havana's 11th Ernest Hemingway International Billfish Tournament in 1960,
from Captain Arocha
France, Italy, Russia, the Cayman Islands, the Bahamas and Switzerland on the
occasion of the Club's 15th anniversary, May 31st.
In honor of the event, Captain Julio Arocha Garrido presented HIYC with the fishing
rod used by the Cuban President Fidel Castro Ruz when he won first prize by catch-
ing five marlin at the Ernest Hemingway Billfish Tournament in 1960. That tournament
was the only time Castro and Hemingway met and the last Ernest Hemingway Billfish
Tournament in which Hemingway would participate. The rod will be displayed in the
club's headquarters at Marina Hemingway as one of its most treasured mementos.
In addition to a reception and party, HIYC celebrated by hosting Optimist, kayak,
rowboat and windsurfer races, and a conference on sportfishing.
HIYC hosts a number of long-distance sailing events from Europe, the US and the
Lesser Antilles, as well as local regattas, and has sponsored children from the
Academy of Nautical Sports of Havana to attend regional youth regattas such as
Schoelcher Week in Martinique.
For more information contact email@example.com cyt. cu.
Visitor Safety and Security Discussions Held
The Caribbean Marine Association (CMA), through the representation of the Yacht
Services Association of Trinidad & Tobago (YSATT) and the Antigua & Barbuda
Marine Association (ABMA) participated in a Visitor Safety and Security Network
Policy Dialogue held at the Cascadia Hotel in Port of Spain, Trinidad, on July 5th
and 6th. The event was organized jointly by the Association of Caribbean States
(ACS) and Caribbean Hotel Association (CHA).
Discussions were held among various stakeholders in the tourism industry with regard
to safety and security problems and possible solutions to be implemented at a
regional level. Stakeholders were given the opportunity to meet representatives of
national and regional associations, ministers of tourism, and local and regional law
enforcement officials to discuss specific needs, challenges and suggestions for
improving visitor safety and security. The group representing the tourism stakehold-
ers and ancillary services was led by Sharon Mclntosh, General Manager of YSATT
and Manager of the CMA.
Continued on next page
"our articles far surpass other
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Virginia Beach, Virginia
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Cover Photo: Barbara Warden
Honeymoon Bay, St. Thomas delivers!
The Caribbean's Monthly Look at Sea & Shore
AUGnUST 200 ILNUMB
Cayuco Jungle Ride
Panama's other canal ............24
Dread defied in Dominica......36
Anchorages being edged out?....42
Destinations ......................... 14
Meridian Passage .................18
Sailors' Horoscope ...............30
Island Poets ......................... 30
Cruising Crossword ...............31
"'-. ...I . .,
Tel: (784) 457-3409, Fax: (784) 457-3410,
Assistant Editor...................Elaine Ollivierre
Advertising & Distribution........Tom Hopman
Art, Design & Production.....Wilfred Dederer
Compass Agents by Island:
.... .... ihl,,1 ..... ... ... I
(i. .. I i h l ,11 ,, Ih, I ,
11 11 ,,,,,,, i . i .i h I ,
i i i h I I , .h I .
Cruising Kids' Corner............32
Dolly's Deep Secrets.............32
Cooking with Cruisers...........37
Readers' Forum ..................39
Advertisers' Index ................44
S 1.i- ll
,," " ', ,,i " h I ,
s~adl.-a lne 6cant vl~neti
ISSN 1605 1998
I C R B E N
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:..l: : 1"' i :1 I" I:i 1:, 1,,: crimes against tourists were the most prevalent,
with robbery and larceny accounting for almost 90 percent of all crimes against visi-
tors. Crimes against the person were approximately one percent. Although there is a
very low probability of a tourist being a victim of crime, it was noted that a serious
crime against a visitor had far-reaching negative consequences for a destination as
a whole, and there is the need to address this through a coordinated regional effort.
Some of the recommendations made by the stakeholders and ancillary tourism
* Community involvement through local awareness, local ownership of tourism
products/services; increased community policing
* Communication collaboration among all tourism stakeholders; communication
by victims of crime to authorities; sharing of statistics and data between agencies
and countries; increased signage on roads and at tourism sites; dedicated govern-
ment officials to deal with response and follow-up of crime against tourists
* Industry standards development, implantation and enforcement of industry stan-
dards for all areas of tourism; recognition and support for certified, standardised
players in the tourism industry by other stakeholders; standards for tourism facilities
(hotels, marinas, beaches, etcetera) must comply with basic standards for safety.
On July 7th, a closed session was held for high-level officials in the tourism, legal and
judicial sectors. They sought to prioritize issues in need of the most urgent attention
and formulated an Action Plan for the implementation of a regional safety and
security network. We await the results of their discussions.
The first phase of this project was focused on the needs of the hotel industry, how-
ever, there was much consultation and feedback provided by other tourism stake-
holders. The Caribbean Marine Association will continue to liaise with the ACS in
order to provide continuing participation in the project and will seek to become a
partner within the regional framework of the future Safety and Security Network.
For more information contact the Caribbean Marine Association at
info caribbeanmarineassociaion. com.
Panama Visa Changes
Julia Bartlett reports: Pablo Le Vrier, one of the owners of Bocas Yacht Club &
Marina in Panama, attended an informal meeting with a government minister and
five other marina owners in Panama City on July 12th to discuss the current situation
regarding visas for cruisers. He reported the following information.
At the moment captains and crews of private pleasure vessels are being issued the
same visa as commercial crews and this will continue at least until the National
Assembly reconvenes in September. The visa consists of a booklet that has to be
stamped every month, but by doing this you can stay as long as the ship
is in Panama.
Senor Le Vrier recommends that captains photocopy their zarpe/Permiso de
Marines from their port of entry before relinquishing it so that the copy can be
shown when they check into Bocas or other Panamanian ports.
A special resolution has been passed and is expected to be signed by the President
in the next few weeks which will identify certain countries that will be exempt from the
30-day tourist visas (renewable at the Immigration Department's discretion for a fur-
ther 60 days) currently being issued to non-yachting tourists. It is anticipated that the
United States, Canada and certain European countries will be among those exempt.
The boating industry in Panama was almost non-existent outside of the Canal Zone
until five years ago, but the government is now aware of its potential. If your boat is
in the popular cruising area of Bocas del Toro it is currently necessary to visit the
town of Changuinola to renew visas. Changuinola is over an hour's journey each
way from Bocas Town on Isla Colon. At the July 12th meeting, the idea was raised
of allowing airport Immigration officials on Isla Colon to renew cruisers' visas.
Senior Le Vrier will post updates at www.bocasmarina.com.
Grenada Sailing Association on the Move
The Grenada Sailing Association elected a new president, Russ Fielden of True Blue
Bay Resort & Villas, at its recent Annual General Meeting. He takes over from Jacqui
This year, a team from Grenada competed for the first time in St. Maarten's
Caribbean One Design Keelboat Championships
Pascall of Horizon Yacht Charters, who stepped down after three years in the post.
Jacqui will remain on the Association's executive in the position of Treasurer, with
James Benoit, representing Grenada Yacht Club, as Vice President and Sarah Baker
In handing over to Russ, Jacqui highlighted the progress that the Association was
making, particularly in its Youth Sailing Programme. She announced that the latest
development was the initiation of an Instructor Training Course, made possible with
funding from the Grenada Olympic Association through its Talent Identification
Programme. Three local sailors Kevin Banfield, Michael McQueen and Vaughn
Bruno will undertake an intensive programme led by GSA Instructor Nick
Stephens. The course includes planning and theory; presentation and classroom
work; practical sailing and sailing instruction; and safety and rescue techniques. The
candidates will also undertake a boat repair and maintenance training course at
the vocational training institute NEWLO. The trainee instructors will also take part in a
GSA Summer Programme, helping to train young local sailors.
Continued on next page
Continued from previous page
There was also more good news for the membership:
for the first time Grenada was represented by two
adult crews in the Caribbean One Design Keelboat
Championships held in June in St. Maarten. Robbie
Yearwood led a crew of Patrick Brathwaite and
Lawrence Tod, and Mark Solomon was joined by
Kevin Banfield and Brian Sylvester. (See report on this
event in Regatta News, page 9.) The trip was made
possible with sponsorship from Bryden & Minors; Geo.
F. Huggins & Co. Ltd.; Horizon Yacht Charters, St.
Maarten; and Terry Neilson.
The Grenada Sailing Association plans to continue
these important initiatives to develop sailing in
Grenada, and would like to thank its members for
their continued support in the future.
For more information contact Jacqui Pascall at (473)
439-1000 or Sarah Baker at 456-0914.
Marigot Bay Okay in a Storm
The Marina at Marigot Bay, St. Lucia, has issued a
statement reassuring boatowners that the new moor-
ing buoy field in the inner bay will not obstruct boats
from seeking shelter in the mangroves should a tropi-
cal storm or hurricane threaten the island. The field of
20 mooring buoys was laid by the marina earlier this
year on behalf of the St. Lucia Air and Sea Ports
Authority following approval from the St. Lucia
Development Control Authority.
Marigot Bay has traditionally been used as a hurri-
cane shelter and according to Marina at Marigot Bay
Manager, Bob Hathaway, a number of measures will
be adopted to ensure the bay can continue to be
used as a safe haven unhampered by the new per-
manent mooring system.
The new moorings are not warranted for tropical
storm or hurricane force winds and could sink boats
moored to them due to snatch loads and the lack of
scope on the riser chains in the event of a high storm
surge. For this reason all boats occupying these moor-
ing buoys will be asked to vacate the mooring or use
it as part of their stern or bow mooring system in the
mangroves. All buoys which might obstruct free
anchoring will then be removed by Marina staff and
the chains dropped to the bottom of the bay.
Hathaway said as boats arrive in the bay, they will be
given the option of using a mooring buoy as part of
their mooring system; using their own anchors and the
mangroves; or berthing in the Marina at Marigot Bay.
As part of these hurricane preparedness measures, the
Marina has also outlined additional requirements for use
of the SLASPA moorings which include laying at least
one additional anchor at maximum available scope;
attaching their boat to the mooring buoy ring with a
minimum ten-metre length of chain or high-strength
rope appropriate to the size of the boat but not
exceeding 13mm diameter (for chain) or 24mm diame-
ter for polyester or nylon rope. This ensures that the buoy
attachment is weaker than the buoy system and that
the buoy will not sink the boat through lack of scope.
Boats should be positioned, as far as practical, at right
angles to the adjacent line of the shore or mangroves.
Berthing in the Marina itself is only by permission of the
Marina at Marigot Bay and will only be granted to
boats that carry third party liability for any damage
that might be caused to the Marina or other boats.
Normal check-in and charges will apply.
"In order to avoid environmental damage to the man-
grove system, the above arrangements will apply only
for the period of a watch or warning and for 48 hours
thereafter unless it is clear that there is a significant risk
from a named or numbered weather system due to
strike in the following seven days," Hathaway said.
"We certainly want to assure all local boat operators
and yacht owners, and the captains of yachts visiting
St. Lucia, that Marigot Bay remains a tried and trusted
hurricane hole and we will do all in our power to
ensure this remains the case," he added.
For more information visit www.marigotbay.com.
Noted yachtsman, writer and photographer Carleton
Mitchell died on July 16th at his home in Key Biscayne,
Florida. He was 96.
Born in New Orleans in 1910, Mitchell dropped out of
Miami University in Ohio in 1932 to sail aboard a yacht
called Temptress. After a short stint in the retail busi-
ness, he moved to the Bahamas, became a self-
taught photographer, and worked as a publicity pho-
tographer for The Bahamas Development Board.
In 1946 Mitchell purchased Carib (John Alden's
Malabar XII) and sailed throughout the Eastern
Caribbean. Richard Dey wrote in the December 1999
issue of Compass: "Yachting in the English-speaking
West Indies did not accelerate into modernity until
1947... when an unknown photographer and journalist
named Carleton Mitchell sailed up the Lesser Antilles
in a 46-foot ketch and wrote an amazing chronicle of
his trip, Islands to Windward. This was the herald of
sailing among the islands as we know it now.... It was
also the start of a brilliant career for Mitchell, arguably
the greatest American yachtsman. (H)is association
with the islands spanned five decades, four boats,
and two books, each with revised editions.
"...Mitchell sailed up the islands, from Port of Spain to
Annapolis, over four months in the winter of 1947. He
had shipped the Carib, a 46-foot Alden ketch, on a
steamer to Trinidad, having sailed the boat the previ-
ous winter among the Bahamas and Greater
Antilles.... The result of the voyage, Islands to
Windward, is astonishing. To have done all he did to
produce the book, and a book of such high quality, in
so little time from the deck of a small yacht is nothing
short of incredible..."
"In both color and black and white, the full- and half-
page pictures in the oversize (22 x 28 cm) book cap-
ture the West Indies as they were at the end of colo-
nialism, on the eve of redevelopment. To see Carib at
anchor with only local sloops and schooners for com-
pany in Admiralty Bay or utterly alone in English
Harbor off the abandoned dockyard is to get some
idea of how yachting has grown over the last half of
the century. Carib was the only yacht in any harbor
between Grenada and Saba; only once, in Castries,
did he encounter another.... Much might be made of
Mitchell's cruise, showing it to be the bridge from
yachting as a unique pastime to a common one, the
fulcrum between the colonial past of the region and
its independent future.
'(Mitchell made) a second investigative voyage in
1965. This time he was in the 38-foot yawl Finisterre,
with which he had won three Bermuda races in suc-
cession. He was again working for the National
Geographic, producing first articles for the magazine
(the articles were subdivided by island group), and
then a book, Isles of the Caribbees (1966)....
Continued on page 46
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Spice Island Marine Services is proud to announce a
new mechanical addition to their popular boatyard
on the south coast of Grenada: a 20-ton crane which
can handle masts up to 80 feet. SIMS' Justin Evans
says, "By investing in our own crane we are now able
to offer customers reasonably priced mast removal
during the summer storage season. Mast removal is
optional, and though we recommend it we do advise
you speak to your insurance companies regarding
their specifications. Our recently built mast rack offers
secure storage at a low daily rate.
"Though the infamous Hurricane Ivan passed three
years ago it is still fresh in many a yachtsman's memo-
ry, especially those who experienced the brunt of this
hurricane's force. We at Spice Island Marine are fully
aware of this, as we too felt the full impact, but we
have treated this as an experience from which we
were able to learn positive lessons. Our storage meth-
ods have since been updated to all major insurance
companies' specifications. This includes steel cradles,
all boats' tie-downs, welded chocks and separate
storage sections depending on the degree of prepa-
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For more information see ad on page 23.
St. Lucians Complete Volvo Marine Training
Max Krowdrah reports: At the beginning of 2007,
Marintek, an electrical and refrigeration workshop
located at Rodney Bay, St. Lucia, was welcomed into
the Volvo Penta marine family. Marintek's managing
director, Egbert Charles, promised, "In the near future
we'll offer full service for Volvo Penta marine engines,
a first for Rodney Bay." That's a promise he's kept,
with Volvo's help of course.
In June, Charles was accompanied to Martinique by
fellow St. Lucians Alwin Augustin and Hubert Sonson
for a seven-day training course based on the eco-
friendly D3/D4 Volvo marine diesel. A 35-foot Bavaria
yacht, Out of Sight, was supplied for both transport
and accommodation by Ulrich Meixner of DSL charter
company, also based in Rodney Bay. Out of Sightwas
skippered by charter captain and diesel mechanic
(of course), Hubert Sonson.
Legendary, in the field of Volvo diesel mechanics at
least, Bengt Gustafssson led the course and the trio
completed a hands-on section where they disman-
tled and then re-assembled a used engine and an
H63 marine gearbox. Practical work was compliment-
ed by a theory/computer diagnostic segment includ-
ing correcting fault codes generated by the engine;
this included compression, fuel and exhaust emissions.
Adjustments are facilitated courtesy of a "palm pilot",
with printouts available for both customer, mechanic
and dealer to assess the engine's efficiency.
Charles described the course as "comprehensive,
practical and relevant." With 16 years of Rodney Bay
experience, and all which that entails, Charles knows
what he's about. "This is the third Volvo course I've
attended in two years and with the backup, training
and tools I'm confident Volvo will thrive in St. Lucia."
Caribbean's First Flying Tiger for Antigua
The Flying Tiger 10 M (FT10), a new ten-metre, one-
design club racer designed by Bob Perry and built by Bill
Stevens at Hansheng Yachts in Xiamen, China, is among
the nominees for Sailing World Boat of the Year 2007.
The first one to reach the Caribbean has just arrived.
On the class association's website, Perry writes: "The
idea was to design a boat that would fit into a con-
tainer for shipping. For me that meant manipulating
the beam of the boat so that when the boat was tilt-
ed 30 degrees it fit tightly into the container. Bill chose
ten meters as the overall length we would work with. I
drew a light and fast hull with a lifting bulb keel and
outboard rudder... Interest in the design grew (and) I
was soon peppered with questions as to the specifics
of the design. Unfortunately all that existed of the
design at that point were preliminary drawings... Then
without thinking much about it, I suggested that the
Sailing Anarchy website (www.sailinganarchy.com)
readers contribute ideas that would help me solidify
the design. This opened the flood gate and started a
process that I think is unique in the history of American
The concept of incorporating the best of freely con-
tributed ideas soon resulted in deposits for over a hun-
Perry adds, "There was a lot of China bashing in the
early days of the project... There was rampant doubt
The Flying 71ger
one design racer
pounce on the
that we could bring this project to reality and if we
did we would be putting out a poorly built, cheap'
boat. They were all wrong."
Today, Flying Tigers are actively raced in North
America and Australia, as well as China, and very
soon will hit the Caribbean circuit.
Sven Harder of Antigua tells Compass, "We have just
ordered the first Flying Tiger to be shipped to the
Caribbean. I am sure that this very affordable boat
will be all over the Caribbean in the future. Hull num-
ber 42 is scheduled to arrive in St. Maarten in a 40-
foot container as this issue of Compass goes to press.
We will assemble the boat at Bobby's Marina and sail
it to Antigua soon after."
The Flying Tiger already has Caribbean connections.
Jeff Fisher of Grenada, who co-authored the Cruising
Guide to Venezuela with Chris Doyle and was
Compass's original Grenada island agent, moved to
China four years ago to oversee production of this
and other Bill Stevens' boats at the Hansheng factory.
In the 1970s Bill Stevens owned and ran Stevens
Yachts, one of the first yacht charter companies in
the Windward Islands. Bet they can't wait to see how
the Flying Tiger performs in the tradewinds!
For more information on Flying Tigers visit
Yacht Haven Grande St. Thomas Finalizes Phase I
Having opened in March of this year, Yacht Haven
Grande St. Thomas marina is finalizing Phase I of its
construction and will immediately continue on into
Phase II. "We are incredibly pleased with the success
that we are experiencing at Yacht Haven Grande St.
Thomas and the manner in which the development is
coming together," said Andrew L. Farkas, CEO of
owner/operator Island Global Yachting (IGY).
Continued on next page
Continued from previous page
"The renaissance of St. Thomas as a world-class yacht-
ing and nautical tourism destination has begun."
Construction of Phase II of the marina, led by the intro-
duction of 25 slips fronting on the Yacht Club, is expect-
ed to commence this month. Advance bookings for the
2007/2008 yachting season are reportedly strong.
The Marina at Yacht Haven Grande offers world-class
amenities such as high-speed in-slip fueling, black
water pump-out and waste oil removal, up to 600
amps of three-phase power, WiFi, 24-hour security
including full ISPS compliance, side-to berthing for
yachts up to 450 feet and beyond, and 18-foot-wide
concrete docks and piers. The marina services
include comprehensive provisioning, catering, laun-
dry, florist, and ships' chandlery.
To complement Yacht Haven Grande, located in St.
Thomas Harbor on the island's south coast, IGY also
recently acquired American Yacht Harbor on the east
end of the island at Red Hook. This full-service marina
accommodates vessels between 30 and 70 feet, and
is one of the most active marinas in the area.
"Strategically from a business standpoint, these two
marinas are the perfect marriage," stated Jeff Boyd,
IGY Executive Vice President of Marina Operations.
"During the summer season, larger vessels do not stay
in the Caribbean, due to insurance restrictions, there-
fore facilities like Yacht Haven Grande that cater to
these megayachts will be at a reduced occupancy,
while smaller craft and sportfish marinas like American
Yacht Harbor will remain busy year-round and can
actually drive business to your other marinas. In the
winter season, however, the limited number of facili-
ties such as Yacht Haven Grande which can berth
the megayachts returning to the Caribbean are a
valued commodity and lead the nautical tourism
industry in occupancy and revenue."
For more information visit
www. yachthavengrande com.
New Shoreside Bar in St. Vincent
Cheers Sports Bar and Guest House is now open, just
opposite Young Island at one of the more popular
yacht mooring spots on St. Vincent. If it's just too
much trouble to get back to the boat after a Black
Pearl cocktail at Cheers' open beach bar, or you
want a night ashore to be sure to catch a flight from
the nearby airport, Cheers offers seven rooms at
affordable rates. There's a barbecue every Friday
night from 6:00PM, with music by house DJ Maggie.
For more information, phone or fax (784) 457-4004.
MSWI to Open Maritime School in Grenada
The Maritime School of the West Indies (MSWI), head-
quartered in St. Maarten, will soon open a second
school in the region. It is hoped that an office will be
open by the end of the year at the new Port Louis
Marina, located in St. George's Lagoon, Grenada.
The MSWI is an International Yachtmaster Training (IYT)
affiliated institution (see www.Yachtmaster.com) and
has instructed hundreds of megayacht crew, day-
charter crew and even coastguard personnel from St.
Maarten and Curacao, over the past years. Courses
given in St. Maarten include the UK Maritime and
Coastguard Agency (MCA) recognized STCW'95,
Master 200 Ton Coastal, Offshore and Ocean, and
several others for professional officers and crew, as
well as recreational courses such as the Bareboat
MSWI is officially recognized by the government of the
Netherlands Antilles, and the IYT and MCA courses are
approved by 25 administrations worldwide.
Principal of the school, Veerle Rolus, said that, during
a recent two-week visit to Grenada, she was
absolutely impressed with British entrepreneur and
yachtsman Peter De Savary's Port Louis Marina proj-
ect and the opportunities that Grenada has to offer
to the yachting and tourism industries.
"We'd been to Grenada a very long time ago,
added Veerle, "so we knew already that the local
people were really friendly. But nevertheless we've
been overwhelmed. Each time when we were driving
around and stopped to ask for directions, people
would run to the car and spend time to explain it all.
All the employees in supermarkets, restaurants, you
name it, were friendly. This is the way every island
should accommodate its tourists.
"We've had meetings with representatives from Peter
De Savary's company and himself, the Marine and
Yachting Association of Grenada (MAYAG), the
Grenada Yacht Club and the Grenada Government,
and they all welcome you with open arms. I think that
Grenada has a bright future."
The aim of the new maritime school is to have a small
office in Port Louis Marina, and classroom facilities,
additional offices and apartment space in a building
nearby. To instruct the official five-day MCA-recog-
nized STCW'95 course, MSWI needs to find a certified
swimming pool where sea rescue instruction
can be taught.
Class 4 Captain and official IYT instructor Lou Hoffman
will start up the first courses in Grenada while the
school will look for local people willing to become
instructors at the school.
Marco London, a professional firefighting instructor
A.- oo M0 00 -lp
Head firefighting officerfor STCW'95 certification,
Marco London (at right), with MSWI students
in St. Maarten
who used to work for St. Maarten's government fire
department and who is already approved by the
school, will conduct the first marine firefighting courses
in Grenada and will teach interested local firefighters
to take over his STCW'95 instruction job later on.
A school-approved St. Maarten doctor will do the
same for the first aid and medical courses.
Along with the STCW'95 course, the Maritime School
of the West Indies in Grenada will also offer sailing
courses, RIB courses, Bareboat Captain licenses,
Master 200 Ton Yachtmaster courses and others. The
school will work in close cooperation with MAYAG
and the Grenada Government.
For more information visit www. MSWI.org.
Brokers to Celebrate 25 Years at Antigua Charter Show
The international Charter Yacht Brokers Association
(see www.cyba.net) will celebrate its Silver Jubilee at
the Antigua Charter Yacht Show this year with a gala
cocktail party held at the Admiral's Inn at Nelson's
Dockyard on December 7th. All charter brokers are
welcome. The Charter Yacht Brokers Association now
lists more than 70 members.
For the past 46 years, a charter yacht show in Antigua
has given brokers the opportunity to personally
inspect yachts in the Caribbean charter fleet and
meet their captains and crews, so the best possible
matches can be made between clients and boats.
Registration is now open for the 2007 Antigua Charter
Yacht Show, which will run from December 5th to
10th. Early registration opens on December 4th, when
the Captains' Briefing will also take place.
To accommodate all the yachts, the show will be
hosted at three marinas: Nelson's Dockyard Marina in
English Harbour, the Falmouth Harbour Marina and
the Antigua Yacht Club Marina. Yacht viewing hours
are from 9:00AM to 5:00PM daily with one hour for
lunch between 12:30PM and 1:30PM.
The latest schedule of events for the Antigua Charter
Yacht Show 2007 show is available
at www. aniiguayachtshow com.
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ie much-talked-about need for a passenger/cargo sea transport system serv-
Sing the Eastern Caribbean area should be addressed by the expected launch
ing this month of a ferry system out of Port of Spain, Trinidad.
The private sector initiative is centered on an ex-Canadian ferry which up until
recently p1.- IIn --, .-i ^ C- T Ti -1---.
After a I I. i.I .-1.... I.. I ... .. I including installation of more cab
ins and amenities, the newly renamed Caribbean Rose is due to arrive in Trinidad
this month, according to George James, the Managing Director of the Global
Steamship .n-i -"hich represents the vessel.
The stee I... 11 I .. has a capacity to carry 300 passengers, both in cabins and
seating arrangements. Additionally, the 2,558-gross-tonne vessel can accommodate
55 vehicles and 400 tonnes of :- -r.l cargo.
Mr. James, speaking at his 11. in the old
Mariner's Club I,,, .1 Wrightson Road
across from the P I i -I .... docks in Trinidad,
said he was enthusiastic about the project.
"I know this will work. We wouldn't have got
involved if we didn't see the need for such a
service. I think experience is the key to it all.
There is the expression 'bridging the gap' from a
previous ferry system. We are now revisiting the
gap," he observed.
The Windward, a slightly different type of ferry
built in Scandinavia, operated on a route cover-
ing St. Lucia, Barbados, St. Vincent, Trinidad
and Margarita Island, Vene- -11;r:i;n. the
1990s. It went out of service i,' I., I .. .. Mr.
James declined to go into details of why that
commendable effort went on the rocks. He how
ever pointed out that the route of the new sys
tem would be expanded. For example, the
Caribbean Rose would be calling at Dominica to
pick up fruits and vegetables there for transport
to other regional countries.
Asked about placing Guyana on the route, so
that Guyanese vegetable and fruit exporters can
have an additional export carrier, Mr. James said this would be a future consider
tion along with other ports as the business expands. He cited other ports, such as
some in Puerto Rico and Venezuela. Shipping agents have been identified in several
ports already, he disclosed.
In addition to the cdr- "e r .-'= -n--;'n'.- regional people and extra-region
al tourists to take up 1 I 1 I .11 111. .... .1 '' ,. I erience" of traveling on
a regional sea link. He pointed to il. 1 .,,I I ... i value for money com-
pared to increasing air fares. Alth(. .,. 11. I . -. fee schedule is still to be finalized,
he envisages a US$10 to $15 charge per person ....1.i r cabin accommodation.
Meals would be for sale at the onboard cafeteria I1 I ....... working to reduce red
tape in permitting the transporting and use of vehicles among the various countries
where the vessel will call.
Due to Start
by Norman Faria
Though the operation's head office is in Port of Spain, the ferry will be ; -:t-- I
in Kingstown, St. Vincent & the Grenadines. The ferry will have crew from i i.. i
countries and Mr. James said he had no objection to them being represented by a
Asked about recent news out of Port of Spain that a new ferry is being seriously
considered by the regional government body CARICOM, Mr. James said he expected
this to complement the private sector initiative. "I think it would be very complex
mentary to ours, since I believe they are going much farther than we are and per
haps to more ports."
Left: Managing Director
of the Global Steamship
Agencies, George James,
sas, 'We see aneedfor uSUSEE TI
such a service' I
Right: Formerly named
the Maritime Princess,
the 300 passenger
Caribbean Rose aims to
create an affordable sea
link for the islands
Aside from the Windward and other efforts such as the Stella S I and Stella S II (the
latter vessels operated by the late Barbadian Captain Albert Selby), previous inter
regional ferry services included the Canadian government-donated and Eastern
Caribbean governments-run Federal Palm and Federal Maple which serviced the
islands during the early 1960s.
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Rosenberg Tops Caribbean Keelboat Champs
The North Sails Caribbean Keelboat Championships
saw a total of 18 races sailed in the Simpson Bay
Once again, Chris Rosenberg and his St. Thomas team
gave an outstanding performance
Lagoon, St. Maarten, over the weekend of June 16th
and 17th. The first six races determined the Gold and
Silver Fleets, and an additional 12 races determined
In the Gold Fleet, last year's winner, Chris Rosenberg of
St. Thomas, USVI, from Team Vertical Yachts, gave an
outstanding performance with four first places out of six
races. Local St. Maarten sailor, Frits Bus, placed second
with his Team Carib. Third place was awarded to the
Stanton brothers, Chris and Peter, from St. Croix, USVI.
In the Silver Fleet, first place went to Donald Stollmeyer
and Team Bacchanal Boys from Trinidad & Tobago.
Second place was awarded to Team Scuba Shop of
St. Maarten, led by Simon Manley. Third went to Team
Wadadli Too, led by Bernie Evan-Wong of Antigua.
The all women's team was led by Emma Paull of
Tortola, BVI, who has been on the top women's team
for the past three years. Although unable to repeat their
success at this North Sails Regatta, they placed second
during their first race to make it into the Gold Fleet.
Conditions on the water were ideal. Spectators
aboard the floating observation point Explorer saw
fantastic sailing by some of the Caribbean's best
sailors. Teams used the floating dock alongside the
Explorer to switch boats, allowing the races to keep a
The North Sails Regatta has been considered an inno-
vative regatta to be copied. This year the regatta
introduced an umpiring model that may turn heads.
The island is fortunate to have a senior international
judge in the person of David de Vries and by coinci-
dence, another senior judge and umpire, Rob
Overton from the USA, happened to be on the island.
Together these two designed a penalty system which
builds on the existing rules and allows a combination
of the existing penalty system that is initiated between
competitors as well as one initiated by the on-the-
water judges. The penalty levels are designed so that
there is an incentive for compliance with participant-
initiated penalty calls. In this first try-out, the system
worked well and the consensus was that this highly
competitive event with very close racing was saved
from the possible antagonistic relations that some-
times occur in regattas at this level.
Between the on-the-water judges, the floating obser-
vation point, and the incredible racing by all 18
teams, this event was unquestionably a success and
one that these sailors will add to their schedule for the
2008 racing season.
17-Year-Old Helms Financial Services Winner
Seventeen-year-old BVI sailor Bryshaun Scatcliffe helmed
Team Conyers Dill & Pearman to victory in the team's
third attempt to win the Financial Services Challenge.
This one-design event was sailed in eleven IC24s on June
24th out of Nanny Cay Marina, Tortola, BVI.
The event, organised by Racing in Paradise and spon-
sored by the BVI International Finance Centre, stars
employees of companies within the BVI financial serv-
ices sector. The participating teams were Banco
Popular; Beacon Capital Management; Conyers Dill &
Pearman; Deloitte; INTAC; Maples & Calder; Nerine;
Ogier; RSM; Tricor; and Walkers.
The teams met at the Royal BVI Yacht Club on the
Friday preceding the event for the weigh-in, briefing
and Moet & Chandon Brut Imperial (Epernay) N/V
reception. Saturday was practice day and the battle
A new rule this year allowed financial-service teams
to engage the services of one or two outside sailors to
improve their chances. This meant that many smaller
companies were able to race competitively.
Team Conyers, which came second in the 2005 and
2006 Financial Services Challenges, went into the final
race tied on points with Deloitte. Helmsman Scatcliffe
managed to win the pin end with great speed as
they took off along the shore just off Nanny Cay.
Andrew Waters, helming for Deloitte, started midline
and looked to be in great shape finding clean air and
the freedom to tack off when he wanted.
As Conyers tacked back towards the fleet it became
obvious that the committee boat end of the line had
been favoured. Team Deloitte crossed comfortably
and managed to get three boats between them-
selves and Conyers once the windward gate had
been rounded. It all looked to be over until the two
teams took opposite leeward marks and Conyers
sailed a great final upwind leg to get ahead of
Deloitte by the windward mark.
Conyers sailed the last run home to the finish to win
the event. Deloitte took second place, and third
place went to Ogier, helmed by George Lane.
At the prizegiving, Guy Eldridge, partner at Conyers,
praised young Bryshaun Scatcliffe for steering the team
to victory. "I was very excited for our helmsman, who
proved himself in the front rank of BVI's young up-and-
coming sailors by driving us to the win after two years
of placing second. He was aggressive in claiming the
pole position at the starts and handling the boat in
tight spots on the race course. He showed exceptional
maturity by leading us to several important comebacks
when things did not go well for us initially."
Team Maples & Calder was awarded a prize for
sportsmanship; each of the crewmembers, including
novices, took the helm for at least one race.
Carriacou's Windward Cup
Stick around the Windward Cup regatta for indige-
nous Grenadines sailboats will be held in Carriacou on
August 18th and 19th, two weeks after the Carriacou
Regatta Festival. The Windward Cup's three-race for-
mat will feature two separate courses, one for decked
vessels in Classes A (40 feet and longer), B (35 to 40
feet) and C (under 35 feet), and the other for open
"stern boats" in two classes. In addition to prizes in
each class, every boat that finishes the course for
each race will get a participation award. For off-
island participants, accommodation will be available.
Organizer Billy Pringle says, "We'd like to make this regat-
ta a signature end-of-season event for the Grenadines,
showcasing local boatbuilding and racing skills."
For more information see ad on page 16.
Bahia Redonda Clasico 2007 Canceled
The Bahia Redonda Clasico Regatta, usually held in
the waters off Puerto La Cruz, Venezuela, in October,
will not take place this year.
Aruba's Billfish Tournament
Aruba's 34rd International Billfish Tournament, hosted
by the Bucuti Yacht Club, will take place November
2nd through 4th. First prize is US$10,000!
For more information contact
Multi-Island Race Set for November
The fourth edition of the Course de I'Alliance regatta
is set for November 23rd through 25th. This event takes
racers from Dutch St. Maarten to St. Barths, on to
Anguilla, and finally to French St. Martin. Organizers
hope to top last year's 23 entries. Registration will take
place on the Thursday before the event at the Sint
Maarten Yacht Club, a long-time supporter of the
event. The skippers' briefing will be held at the
Spinnaker Bar & Grill just downstairs of the Yacht Club
The entry fee of 150 Euros includes breakfast and din-
ners for a crew of four; additional crewmembers can
be fed for 50 Euros each. Registered boats are eligible
for free dockage at the Marina Fort Louis at Marigot,
St. Martin, but space is limited so make arrangements
ahead of time!
For more information visit
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3rd St. Maarten-St. Martin
Classic Yacht Regatta Scheduled
West Indies Events and the St. Maarten-St. Martin
Classic Yacht Regatta organization have announced
that the 3rd St. Maarten-St. Martin Classic Yacht
Regatta is scheduled for the third week-end in January
2008. The program is spread over four days with three
race days and four parties. The event starts with regis-
tration followed by the official opening cocktail party
and skippers' briefing on January 17th, 2008.
Friday will be the first race day with a course start
around 11:00AM out of Simpson Bay, St. Maarten, rac-
ing to the French side of the island. The yachts will be
on the docks at Fort Louis Marina at Marigot after the
regatta, which will allow the public to see the magnifi-
cent classics. Drinks and food will be available for
captains and crew, and a party for everyone will be
thrown in the Fort Louis Marina parking lot.
Saturday will see the yachts starting at 10:00AM on a
course to Great Bay, where they will arrive in the early
afternoon. A regatta village on the beach at the
Pasanggrahan Royal Guest House will accommodate
the public while yacht owners, captains and crew will
be offered the famous free beach buffet. Local boat
races will be held at around 4:00PM, in cooperation
(as last year) with Taloula Mango's, with starts right in
front of the bar and restaurant. Evening activities and
the regatta party with live band will also be concen-
trated around Taloula Mango's. A VIP location will
accommodate press, sponsors and invited guests the
The start on Sunday will be again at 11:00AM out of
Great Bay and yachts will race to Simpson Bay, finish-
ing around 4:00PM. A second local boat regatta will
start off the Great Bay beach on Sunday.
A silent auction, awards ceremony, buffet and prize-
giving party in Simpson Bay will close off the first-class
sailing event. Richard West from Anguilla, who won
the first place overall in the two previous St. Maarten-
St. Martin Classic Yacht regattas aboard Charm III, will
defend his title.
Together with a new classic regatta in Grenada
scheduled for February (see item below) and the
long-established Antigua Classic Yacht Regatta, the
Third time could again be a charm for Richard West's
Anguillaregistered classic schooner, Charm III
Caribbean circuit for classic yachts becomes ever
For more information visit www.ClassicRegatta.com.
Port Louis to Sponsor Grenada Sailing Festival
Port Louis Grenada and the Grenada Sailing Festival
have announced that Port Louis, Grenada's newest
marina, will be the new title sponsor of the Grenada
Sailing Festival. As title sponsor, Port Louis Grenada will
make a significant contribution to the festival over the
next three years.
Additionally, Port Louis will also provide the needed
infrastructure for the successful staging and growth of
the event. The Port Louis Marina will be able to pro-
vide berthing facilities for over 300 boats and the
organizers say this will enhance the already well-
established international sailing event.
The Port Louis Grenada Sailing Festival 2008 will be
held from January 25th through 29th.
For more information on Port Louis visit www.portiouis-
grenada, com. For more information on the Grenada
sailing Festival visit www grenadasailingfestival com
Danny Donelan of Port Louis Marinna (center) joins
other sponsors' reps in a toast to Grenada Sailing
Festival 2008. For complete list of sponsors visit
New Classic Regatta Announced for Grenada
West Indies Events, organizers of the St. Maarten St.
Martin Classic Yacht Regatta, have announced that
a new Classic Regatta is scheduled to take place in
Grenada from February 21st through 24th, 2008.
The Grenada Classic Yacht Regatta, with three race
days, is organized in cooperation with Fred Thomas of
Shipwrights Ltd. who held the Wooden Boat Regatta
in Grenada for several years. West Indies Events will
also work closely with the Grenada Yacht Club, the
Marine and Yachting Association of Grenada, the
Government, local hotels, marinas and businesses.
The Grenada Classic Yacht Regatta will have registra-
tion, followed by the skippers' briefing and the official
opening party, on the Thursday.
On the Friday, the start will be out of St. George's
Harbour. The yachts will sail along the Grand Anse
coast and finish back in St. George's, where a free
buffet and drinks will be offered to all captains, crew,
press and VIPs. If possible, local workboat races will be
organized starting at 4:00PM on Grand Anse Beach. A
Friday night party with a live band will be open to the
Saturday's race will also start out of St. George's, and
will finish in St. David's Harbour on Grenada's south
coast. A free buffet will be offered for participants
and invited guests at the Water's Edge restaurant,
compliments of Bel Air Plantation. A beach party for
all with a live band is also scheduled.
On Sunday the yachts will leave St. David's Harbour to
sail back to St. George's. The yachts will sail into St.
George's Harbour in a parade and return to the
docks. An awards ceremony will be held in the late
afternoon followed by a prize-giving party.
Registration for The Grenada Classic Yacht Regatta
plus schedules, program, race instructions and courses
will be available soon at www ClassicRegatta. com.
The overall third place winner in Racing/Cruising Class
in the Tour de Guadeloupe 2007 was Luc Coquelin on
Credit Maritime, not Sofaia Parapharmacie as report-
ed in the July issue of Compass.
We've run out of space, so we'll bring you the news
about the IRC Division in the Rolex Regatta 2008
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,, I .I ,, I II 1,,11,,, ,, I I I I ,,11 .1 I ..,II,... ..1I,. .. .. .. I I
Islands, gave notice to the world that Opti sailing is to psych myself to catch up. And, I relaxed. My
thriving in the Caribbean. coach helped me learn that. It helped." Left: Puerto Rico's Fernando Monlor in the lead to take
The participants, all between eight and 15 years Monllor also won the 13 to 15-year-old Red Fleet, first place among 95 young sailors racing in St. Thomas.
old, came from Curacao, Trinidad & i i .. while St. Thomas' Nikole "Nikki" Barnes, who ended His team mate Raul Rios later won the Optimist North
Barbados, the British Virgin Islands, all t I -. fourth in Red, took the Top Girl and Pete Ives American Championship, held in Mexico in July.
Virgin Islands, Puerto Rico, the Dominican Sportsmanship titles.
Republic, Cayman Islands, Bermuda, the US main- a spectacular tacking duel in the last Above: Nikki Barnes ofSt. Thomas practiced five days a
land from South Carolina to Washington State, and ra i 11. regatta against Christopher Williford, of week for 13 months straight to become Scotiabank's Top
even Germany. Yet it was Puerto Rico's Fernando Florida, St. Thomas' Ian Barrows won the 11 to 12 Girl. She went on to win Top North American Girl at the
Monllor who sailed to the top of the record-setting year-old Blue Fleet by a narrow five-point lead after Opti North American Championship, and as this issue
95 entries, with his fellow islanders Raul Rios 12 races. goes to press she's competing in the Opti Worlds
(reigning South American champ) and Ivan Aponte Continued on next page in Sardinia
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St. Thomas' Addison Hackstaff enjoyed two celebra
ti ..-.. i. .. final day a win in the ten
S.. ... i ... i Ii Fleet and his llthbirthday. "I
got a black flag the first day for being over early. Boy,
I really hated that. And, that's when Odille was win
ning," said Hackstaff. "The second day I really thought
about my strategy because I really wanted to win, and
Curacao's Odille van Aanholt ended second, and
enjoyed being in the lead the first day in spite of sea
sickness. "I lil-- 1--;;. at the top. So when I felt better,
that's what I '. I I said van Aanholt, whose brother
Just raced in Blue Fleet, brother Ard sailed in Red Fleet,
and father, Cor, an internation .1 .,i,.. ige and for
mer Sunfish World Champion, I' I ... a kayak.
In the "-Ai.n.r=' r--n Fleet, Cayman Island sailors
cleaned I'..- ... .. I places. Elliot Vernon took
first, after sailing an Optimist for less than a year.
"This was my first international regatta," Vernon said.
"What I like best abo.. i. ...i... .; going fast, meet
ing new people and i,,,
St. Thomas' Green Fleeter, Kai Holmberg, enjoyed
his first Scotial ...i I . but had a tough time
pulling himself . I, ... 11. television on the regat
1r',, .1 '.', I' I
ta's second day. No, he's not addicted to cartoons.
Rather, his uncle, Peter Holmberg, was making news
by helping Alinghi win its first race of the 2007
Karen Rice, regatta co-director with Cindy Hackstaff,
said, "We're very pleased with the gr( i. ... .
ta over the years. It's become bigger i i 1 I I
the number of boats almost equals our International
Rolex Regatta for yachts, making it one of the largest
events we host."
About Optimist sailing Rice adds, "Kids learn
tremendous skills, such as leadership and taking
responsibility for themselves and their decisions."
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Regatta 2007 Winners
1) Fernando Monllor, Puerto Rico, 54 points
2) Raul Rios, Puerto Rico, 64 points
3) Ivan Aponte, Puerto Rico, 77 points
Nikole "Nikki" Barnes, St. Thomas, USVI, 88 points
1) Fernando Monllor, Puerto Rico, 54 points
2) Raul Rios, Puerto Rico, 64 points
3) Ivan Aponte, Puerto Rico, 77 points
1) Ian Barrows, St. Thomas, USVI, 123 points
2) Christopher Williford, USA, 128 points
3) Eduardo Ariza, Dominican Republic, 189 points
1) Addison Hackstaff, St. Thomas, USVI, 440 points
2) Odille van Aanholt, Curacao, 492 points
3) Antonio Bailey, Bermuda, 551 points
1) Elliot Vernon, Cayman Islands, 37 points
2) Camilo Bernal, Cayman Islands, 52 points
3) Alexandria Rich, St. Croix, USVI, 53 points
Trinidad & Tobago has embarked on an ambitious program to spread the joy of
sailing to children throughout this twin-island republic in the southern Caribbean.
im. i. Trinidad, especially, produces world class racing yachtsmen and boasts
I .I Caribbean's most active yacht service pc. I- 1 .... .. ,. i .
been seen by the majority of the population as an I I .I I .i I
foreigners. Operation Optimist aims to change that.
Operation Optimist is a national youth development program run by the Trinidad
& Tobago Optimist ....1. - ciation (TTODA) working together with the govern
ment. The president t I i..'. is David Lewis, and the vice-president is Colin
Barcant. David initiated the Optimist program in Trinidad in 1991 after seeing the
Optimist program in Martinique while he was the President of the Trinidad & Tobago
Sailing Association. Since then, TTODA has used the Optimist boat to teach hun
dreds of kids to sail at Chaguaramas.
David recognized that there were limitations involved in getting all of Trinidad to
come to sail in one location and decided to get the government involved to take the
project to underprivileged kids in coastal .11..- around the country. Swedish
experts came to Trinidad and made a surv I .11 the potential locations. These
include Point Fortin, Vessigny and Point a Pierre on Trinidad's west coast; Invaders
Bay in Port of Spain; Las Cuevas on the north coast; and Buccoo Village and
Speyside in Tobago. Operation Optimist was officially launched on May 1ith, 2007,
at Vessigny Beach where the program's pilot school opened in September, 2005.
Today, the Operation Optimist program at Vessigny, in the south of Trinidad near
the Pitch Lake, :- 1i .. while work is ongoing at other sites.
,,,0 i . 'ur visions toextendthesportofsailingtochil
i 'i'..... walks of life by establishing a series of Optimist Youth .,,,. Schools
in coastal communities, where boys and girls between the ages ol .. and 11
years can learn to single handedly sail a little... dinghy called an Optimist at mini-
mal cost to them or their parents.
"More than their involvement in a physically and mentally challenging sport ide-
ally suited to the coastal towns and villages where they reside, we are convinced that
learning to sail at a young impressionable age will give our nation's youth a found
nation of knowledge, discipline, positive attitudes and behaviors that will chart their
course for more promising and hopeful futures."
Brochures which are part of TTODAs introduction to the public note that the per-
sonal and social development aspect of the program is paramount, whether the chil-
dren involved simply sail for fun, decide to get involved in competitive sailboat rac
ing, or ultimately are led to one of the many careers in the marine sector.
The only requirement for children in the specified seven to 11 year-old age group
is the ability to swim. Similar programs based on a proven international template
developed by the International Optimist Dinghy Association (IODA) have been suc
cessfully implemented in IODA member countries worldwide.
At eight feet long and with a single sail, the Optimist dinghy is sailed in over 110
countries by over 150,000 young people. The Optimist dinghy is designed to teach
children as young as seven years to sail, yet technical enough to hold the interest of
a young teen. Optimist dinghy championship regattas are held in all six continents
and a world championship is held each year. At the 2004 Summer Olympic Games
in Athens, over 60 percent o f the skippers and 70 percent of the medal-winning skip-
pers were former Optimist sailors.
The annual Optimist North American Championship Regatta was held at Pigeon
Point, Tobago, in June 2005. This was the first time a Caribbean country had host
ed the event. One hundred eighty-five Optimist sailors from 18 nations participated.
Three young T&T sailors Anthony Alkins, Matthew Scott and James ..
placed in the top ten in the Individual Event, and Trinidad & Tobago canr, ,,,
the Team Event. Operation Optimist had the r 1., i purchase many of the
Optimist dinghies which had been brought to i i .. I 1 regatta.
Later that year, T&T's Matthew Scott won second place in the Optimist World
Championship 2005 held in Switzerland.
David Lewis t- 11.-ri 1.-.i: ..- thl, life blood of the program and we are
continuing to I i,,, i,,. I i ,.,, I, until we have developed our own. We
have 60 boats in stock for immediate expansion and that will bring our total stock
on the islands to approximately 150 Optimists. This means that we can have great
local and regional regattas at a moment's notice."
True to Operation Optimists motto, "A new wave of hope... from a little sail boat",
Trinidad & Tobago has won the bid to host the 2009 Optimist World Championships.
TTODA is awaiting financial support approval from the government.
For more information on Operation Optimist contact David Lewis at tel (868) 645 5522.
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Spart-time cruiser, one of my main bases on dry
land is the Virgin Islands' notorious St.
homas. Yes, St. Thomas. Yes, I know, you
anchored in St. Thomas Harbor next to three mega
lithic cruise ships disgorging 3,000 sweating tourists
apiece. Or banged your shins and head in the steady
-or rather, unsteady -swell perpetually running
into the cute, overpriced harbor of Red Hook. I did too.
Why develop a harbor open to the tradewinds?
But when you know where to go, St. Thomas is dif
ferent. While I've heard some locals say they don't
touch the ocean from one month to the next (tough on
an island 20 miles long and about three miles across,
but you hear it all the time), my friends and I -well,
we're a little different. Maybe we haven't been around
the island long enough to be inured to its beauty.
Maybe we've been here just long enough to appreciate
it. However it happens, we appreciate its marvels, and
here are the ones you should visit. From your boat.
Honeymoon Cove at Water Island
Water Island, a gorgeous anchorage or a short
dinghy ride from Crown Bay or St. Thomas Harbor
(yes, just ten minutes from the dreaded cruise ship
docks), is like the Nantucket of the Caribbean. No, Fire
Island, because many insular natives here drive golf
carts instead of cars. The basic, inherent psychic dis
connect between busy commercial St. Thomas
dwellers (the New York or Jersey of the region) and
these reclusive and iconoclastic islanders means that
practically no one ever comes here.
And Honeymoon Bay is the most beautiful spot. This
remote little slice out of paradise is a small cove shel
tered on three sides, lined with white sandy beach,
palm trees, and a few rickety thatched shelters. It's
remote enough that I've never seen it packed -often,
it's practically empty.
Sailboats lie gently i- tl:- --t -ichorage, one of
the few here truly ' i ... the prevailing
winds: you can rest smoothly at anchor under the
St. Thomas's martin
Amalie, might be
crowded and crazy,
but sail around the .- -.
island to the north
side and on any
weekday you can
Magen's Bay pretty
much to yourself
shelter of the big rock headlands that leave only the
west open. The approach is dead easy, and with the
wind cut off by the island you practically coast to a
stop in a perfect spot for your anchor. And the rocky
I, .,, .. i i i Ii .I l . lso a greatbet
: i. i . i .. I i i)uring the
Si I I ..... , ....... ,,, I drives up
in a truck and grills burgers, hot dogs, and truly
amazing sloppy joes (wait, I think the joes are only on
Thursday) by the beach. On Saturday nights, you
can dinghy in and reserve a picnic table for a moonlit
gourmet dinner under the stars. Or radio the Pizza
Boat to deliver pizza to your cockpit (really). And don't
miss movie night, where they rig a giant translucent
sheet you can watch from both sides -from the
beach or from your boat -and not oldies, but spank
ing new releases. Go figure.
This fabulous beach can be crowded on weekends, but
here's a tip: You live on a boat. You don't work. Go on a
weekday. Also, any day after 4:00PM is pretty empty.
Continued on next page
I tL.aLeS L'A in f
II. -*II. -^ 0 J*
by Barbara Gail S. Warden
T CuraSxao E
Daily irs lo te u 5 and Europe
Continued from previous page
Another film-worthy cove with palm trees galore,
Magen's is a bit more of a destination. On the north
coast, it offers another easy approach, and rarely are
there other boats at anchor in this stunningly beautiful
and wonderful spot f-r ~, immini and picnicking. It's
also about six times -. 1 1i .. eymoon, perfect for a
sunset run along the packed sand at the waterline, with
nice snorkeling along the sides to cool off.
At the far end (on the right from your anchor), the
few people you see are locals -families and church
groups who've been coming here for generations. One
recent afternoon, as I was getting up to leave, a gener
ously endowed lady with a striking bosom and even
larger derriere strolled majestically across the beach.
Stopping i...i. I i .t water, she started belting out
gospel lik i II. I. I People of all ages materialized
from the sea, the beach, and behind palm trees, all
joining in at the tops of their lungs. Everyone just sud
denly burst into song. It was like falling into the mid
dle of a South Sea island musical. I stayed another 20
minutes just to listen.
If you anchor here (if you don't mind a gentle, occa
sional swell), also don't miss the popular end of the
beach for free half-fresh/half-salt showers at the bath
house, lunch at the beachside bar or the restaurant,
ice and souvenirs at the gift shop. With a little luck,
you might never need to leave.
This truly amazing, remote, otherworldly spot is just
minutes from popular Magen's Bay. We hiked out here
one morning and spent hours just clambering over
rocks, scaling small cliffs, and lounging in absolutely
unbelievable pools of startlingly clear green water sur
rounded by rocks.
We saw no one. Not a soul, except the dead depart
ed souls of the crabs that are scattered all about,
oddly high and dry from the ocean. Perhaps there is a
magic in this place that attracts them out of their nat
ural elements, and they can't find their way home
before they die on the sunny rocks. It feels magical...
you could believe many strange tales here.
We spent about an hour in one tiny pool, a creation
of rock exactly like a deep Jacuzzi, with an entrance
guarded by spiky black sea urchins. We floated in
buoyant crystalline green water, did perfect somer
saults without touching the urchins, and rested our
feet on the edge to float side by side, gazing at the sky.
"This is what it must feel like in the womb," said my
friend. We contemplated this for a while, arms draped
loosely about one another, sides touching, then added
simultaneously, "For twins." We took turns snapping
pictures (the unusual clarity of the water gives a strike
., 1 1 .. 1 1 water, which I luckily realized
I ... ..' ..- the photos), and .11 ... i 1.
other underwater, listening to our voice. i' 11
drowned and diminished yet perfectly clear.
And Surrounding Islands
And recently we took off for Tortola, a mere hour or
so by ferry, or a few hours by sail. Several of us rent
ed an SUV and drove down remote, barely accessible
dirt dare I call-them-roads. We jumped ditches and
This is not your marina's
kiddy pool. A hike from
Magen's Bay takes you to
Peterborg Point where an
otherworldly landscape has
tidal pools perfect for a
secluded skinny dip
traversed trails (and changed tires). We found several
deserted beaches (Smith's, and another that some of
us thought was Smith's but others thought wasn't)
.1 :-- .;t hiking and mountain biking trails. We
.11 I II and on about diving out on the wreck of a
giant old broken-in-two steel boat that sits just off the
coast, half in 15 to 30 feet of water, half over the drop
off in 80 feet, but didn't.
Instead, we met a small boy who showed us his baby
chicken which had died that morning, and ....11 ,,i
who showed us her baby goat (still alive). I I.. ..
Keith and I took turns 1-l-li;;. th- baby goat but no
one touched the chicken ... I ... old woman whose
legs were speckled brown and white like the old
Appaloosa of a friend of mine. The woman' - .1,,.
tiny fish for dinner, oblivious to about -* II.
buzzing all about her. We visited the Tortola Music
Festival, heard lively reggae, bought magic mush
rooms (legal here, but icky -they're freshly dug and
they look... and taste... like black slugs), and our
friend Rosh and I went for a rur .1;-n the beach. The
next day, we zoomed back on i. i .. We thought
briefly about going to Virgin Gorda (only another hour
or so away) to explore the wonderful natural rock for
nations and secret pools there, but we didn't. Maybe
another time. After all, its not far.
Now I've headed back to spend the summer on Cape
71 - -- *Sr
Cod, but my friend Keith just called from St. Thomas.
He's going diving this afternoon, probably on one of
the wrecks off the south side of the island. Then he
and some friends might head over to St. John to do
some hiking and possible drinking while hiking in the
island's vast national parklands. After all, St. John's
only half an hour by ferry, an hour or so by sail.
As my friend John says, "Sooo, it's not your favorite
tropical island: it's just got some amazing places,
beautiful beaches, ever-changing population, and is
surrounded by other beautiful tropical islands? Oh.
Former marketing executive turned sailor/freelance
writer Barbara Gail S. Warden presently divides her
time between adventuring in New England and explore
ing the Caribbean -and writing about it all.
CLEAR SKIES FORECASTED FOR THIS SAFE HARBOR
Sent Boca Maritun, Ci rao' fine rri.% I .1k ir. ha,'- qr.ixm, to aisk boaIt in dLii, and leaving the Ml
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AiLii r np.ni.h %%aIer tiB. %beru Boca Marina is considered *Scru I$'L..i Manr L- .'3 k nart'r it. \l11c:r
*n.r. ..I ihe fine ,.> .ifItt aycht anchwborages in the Caribbean. 24 hour, security.
S. 1 *1Thte mrst advanced design on Curuan.
I In jlinf Jdkls enriinverd in Haliu d.
*Cable TV. and potable waitOcFr viitiblc,
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For infonnaion on rtes and facilities,
call (5 9) 9 560-2399
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Td. 5 T99W 9, ".IXW 9 76 fu %1
I n,,, .I .,r .,,ri l..h JI n.fl *: arlflTr T 1
.... ei.J 4 t.i' rj.-l nrd...ii. rT. -> n I
ai Fiwr aL
Restoration for Damaged Grenadines Lagoon
The Ashton Lagoon Participatory Planning Workshop
was held from April 22nd to 24th at the St. Joseph's
Catholic Church in Union Island. This workshop was
attended by community members; government offi-
cials; local, regional and international marine, wet-
land, birdlife and coral reef ecologists; fishermen and
a coastal engineer. The aim of the planning workshop
was the development of a restoration plan for the
Ashton Lagoon area, incorporating the local commu-
nity's vision for its sustainable use through options such
as ecotourism and mariculture.
The Ashton Lagoon Restoration Project on Union
Island in the Grenadines aims to reverse the environ-
mental damage caused by the initial phases of con-
struction of a marina project which was aborted
approximately a decade ago. According to the
Centre for Resource Management and Environmental
Studies (CERMES) at the University of the West Indies,
Ashton Lagoon once had a range of important habi-
tats (including coral reefs, mangroves, mudflats and
seagrass beds) for fish, shellfish, and invertebrates. The
lagoon and nearby Frigate Island also provided
important habitats for wintering and migrating popu-
lations of seabirds, waterbirds, shorebirds and land-
birds. Despite the fact that the area was officially des-
ignated a conservation area, the government
accepted a proposal by a developer for a 300-boat
marina, condominiums and golf course. An environ-
mental assessment pointed out that the develop-
ment's construction of a causeway between Union
and Frigate Island would cut off water circulation to
the bay, causing damage to reefs, seagrasses and
fisheries. Nevertheless the project proceeded, with
the predicted results.
The Restoration Project is implemented by the Society
for the Conservation and Study of Caribbean Birds in
collaboration with the Sustainable Grenadines Project
For more information visit www cavehill.uwi.edu/cer-
Venezuelan Kids' Beach Clean-Up
In June 22, the children of the Casa Hogar Don Bosco
orphanage, together with their staff and members of
Fundacion La Tortuga, assumed the task of cleaning
the beaches of the Venezuelan coastal city of
Lecheria near many popular Puerto La Cruz marinas..
The event, organized by the non-profit environmental
group Fundacion La Tortuga to mark the Month of the
Oceans 2007, included 14 children ages nine to 14,
who showed a keen understanding of the problems
presented by inadequate disposal of garbage. The
children collected around 300 kilos of polluting materi-
al that was duly sorted and packed for proper dispos-
al, then enjoyed a swim and an afternoon of sports
The Police Force of the State of Anzoategui and
CONSERVA, the company in charge of garbage col-
lection in the area, supported the event.
For more information on Fundacion La Tortuga visit
Solar Ferry Launched in St. Lucia
Possibly the Caribbean's first solar-powered ferry, the
Sunshine Express was launched in early July to shuttle
guests from Discovery at Marigot Bay, a resort on St.
Lucia's west coast, to a nearby beach and to the
numerous local bars and restaurants which dot the
Marigot Bay shoreline. St. Lucia's Governor General,
Her Excellency Dame Pearlette Louisy, christened the
vessel, which was designed and built right in Marigot
Bay by naval architect Bob Hathaway, Alvin Jean
Pierre and Zarious Rene. While the local boat-building
team imported components such as the photovoltaic
cells, all the necessary skill and expertise was available
locally and the team says it can supply more of these
quiet, emission-free boats to others in the region.
For more information contact
Hurricanes Chill Out Stressed Reefs
According to a July 17 report in The New York Times,
Derek P. Manzello, a researcher at the University of
Miami's Rosenstiel School of Marine and Atmospheric
Science, and his colleagues think that hurricanes can
benefit bleached coral reefs. Bleaching, the loss of
symbiotic algae from the coral, occurs when a reef is
stressed, most commonly by warmer-than-normal
water. Because algae provide most of the corals'
food, bleaching can lead to the death of a reef,
unless the water temperature returns to normal and
algae can repopulate the coral.
Hurricanes' intense winds stir colder water up from the
deep, with the result that surface waters get cooler.
Of course, a direct hit by a hurricane wouldn't be
good for a reef. But Manzello wondered whether a
reef that was close, but not too close, to a storm
might be helped by this cooling effect.
He and his colleagues used data from a long-term
monitoring project at reefs off the Florida Keys. They
found that all hurricanes and tropical storms that
passed within about 450
miles of the reefs caused
with the greatest effect (a
drop in average tempera-
tures of as much as 5.5
degrees Fahrenheit) from
storms that passed within
250 miles. The cooling
effect lasted up to 40
days, depending on dis-
tance from the storm's
center track. The Florida
reefs were hit hard by
M bleaching in 2005 as were
reefs off the US Virgin
Islands. But that fall
Hch hurricanes Rita and Wilma
reefs. The researchers
Sound that these reefs
recovered almost com-
pletely, while the Virgin
Islands reefs, which were
much farther away from the hurricanes, did not.
Eastern Caribbean Marine Resource Degree
The University of the West Indies Centre for Resource
Management and Environmental Studies (CERMES) at
the Cave Hill Campus in Barbados is offering an MPhil
degree which focuses on marine resource governance
in the Eastern Caribbean. The degree will be facilitated
by a two-year fellowship and research grant and is
scheduled to commence in the academic year
2007/2008. The fellowship and research are associated
with the CERMES four-year project on "Marine
Resource Governance in the Eastern Caribbean"
which has been implemented with the aid of a grant
from the International Development Research Centre.
For more information visit www cavehill.uwi edu/cer
International Coastal Cleanup Day Coming!
September 15th is International Coastal Cleanup Day
2007. Sponsored by Ocean Conservancy, this has
become a huge global volunteer effort. Humans
make marine litter we should clean it up! Trash
removed from the shoreline, beaches, mangroves
and other coastal areas saves marine life. Boaters
can be of particular help by cleaning up places that
can only be reached by boat.
For more information visit
www. oceanconservancy. org.
BUY STREET'S GUIDES
Real sailors use Street's Guides for inter-island and harbor
piloting directions, plus interesting anecdotes of people,
places and history. Street's Guides are the only ones that
describe ALL the anchorages in the Eastern Caribbean.
Real sailors also buy the other guides, that have pretty
pictures and describe hotels, bars, restaurants and
anchorages that are popular with bareboaters.
Real sailors circle in Street's Guide the anchorages that
are not described in the other guides. This enables them
to find quiet anchorages far from "The Madding Crowd".
Street's Guides are available
at bookshops and chandleries, or from
www.iUniverse.com and www.seabooks.com
Whaling in Barbados
by Norman Faria
The Barbados Public Library staged a modest but significant reminder of the now
defunct whaling industry in Barbados in June at their Speightstown branch on the
northwest side of the island where the 1.. i. .i. .. ... .. were located. The com-
mendable exhibition was held as i .. i .i, in Barbados during
As the information on posters -there were no artifacts, an omission lamented by
several observers in the Response
Book related, the industry was
much like what was taking place in
the nearby Grenadines.
Those involved were ordinary fish
ermen and small businesspeople
who saw the whales as just another
fish whose t -r meant a lively
hood and "i pr i I on the table.
As in Bequia in the St. Vincent
Grenadines, where the
International Whaling Commission
recently renewed an annual catch
limit of four humpback whales,
whaling in Barbados was started
by former crewmembers of New
England whaling ships which had
visited the islands since the 18th
century. When Barbadians signed off as crew, they set up their own industry. In its
heyday, there were three whaling stations in or around the two west coast towns of
Speightstown and Holetown.
It is not known how many whaleboats were stationed at each. No details are given
about their construction or type, only that they had sails and were manned by a crew
of l4men per boat. Basedonti ..1 i... i i.i i .1 i. y must have been sim
ilartothose usedinBequia. i I ...i.,.. I 1' ...I I. -; whatappears tobe a
a 1 ...t .. nsail (rather than the spritsail arrangement of Bequia) and the
II .. ng a type of Amerindian paddle. The harpooners used harpoons,
Sl I ... h I I lance" for the coup de grace. There is what appears to be a brass
gun, ol I ., exhibited in the Barbados Museum* and said to be used by har
A I I .. I IoI s' ', Ih ,I th I 1., I therewas stiff competition among
the Barbados stations. In 1904, the colonial government passed a Fisheries
Regulation Act governing such competition It included stipulation on how profits
and expenses were to be split if two boats struck the same whale together.
The exhibition quoted a Barbados newspaper as saying tat, in 1912, ninety 30
gallon barrels of whale oil w i i ., i ., i 3 pounds sterling per ton.
Also, bones were ground i' t i l ly ,I the baleen cleaned and cut to
Whales, mainly humpbacks, are still sometimes seen off Barbados' coasts. But
the industry has long gone and only tourists and locals watch them now rather
than the spotters on the hills at the three stations a century ago who were undoubt
edly equally happy as they hollered: "Thar she blows! Let's go, boys. Looks to be a
good catch today."
*For those interested in history, the Barbados Museum, located in the historic dis
trict of The Garrisonjust outside the capital city of Bridgetown, is worth a visit. It is a
15minute walk from the yacht anchorage at Carlisle Bay ifyou pull your dinghy up
on the beach in front of the Cruising Club (on the south side of the hotelpier). For more
information visit www. barbados.org/museum.
The main branch of the Barbados Public Library is located on Coleridge Street in
Bridgetown, near the Law Courts and the Central Police Station.
For more information phone (246) 426 6081, or email: firstname.lastname@example.org.
IN THE HIDEY-HOLE
If we're going to be here, let's be ready
Hugo du Plessis, Caribbean Compass, April 2005
We're going to cram a lot of information into this August's issue so that everyone
can be thinking, talking and actually doing something about August, September
and October storms. If your boat is in the water, your choices when a storm
approaches are to stay in a local hurricane hole or to head away to where you hope
the storm isn't going to be; and then, choose to stay aboard or go ashore.
If you missed the last month's helpful hints (and if you did, Gentle Reader, what
ever were you thinking?), here's a review. You have identified where you are going
to go for shelter, and actually gone there and scoped the place out. You have a good
idea how to get in, even if its getting dark, blowing 30 knots, and there are 40 other
boats in the harbour and more a'comin'. You've looked at the harbor and feel con
fident its sheltered from waves, even if a six-foot storm surge thunders over some
of the protecting reefs and cays. If you 1. I ; I ... lher island for shelter, you
are ready to jump at least two days in I I I I .11 of any storm. In addition
to food and water, you have a two-week supply of any prescription medications and
a two-week supply of cash in small bills. You have LOTS of mosquito repellent.
Prepping the boat in a hurricane hole
Once you get to your hidey hole, here are some ideas about what to do besides
running in circles screaming "We're all going to die".
Having seen a fleet of bareboats' roller furling jibs deploy in the middle of
Hurricane Hugo, I have been rather emphatic that people take li .. ii i., i...
sails off. Jibs, and if you have it, main too. Don't expect an in-the-..... ,,, ....
to stay there for a storm.
Take everything off the deck: biminis, barbecues, propane bottles, outboards on
pushpits -everything! There should be nothing left on deck but the lifelines and
the gel coat.
Have a camera and take a lot of pictures of what ii..., looked like before
the storm, including where and how other boats wen .. i If there is a fla
grantly negligent operation around, document it on film or disk; there may be law
suits after it is all over. Ti. fI an over insured, poorly secured boat
(one of Don Streets "b.. I ...I I- .. wipes out one, two or more cruising
families should be made to own up to their failure to abide by customary standards
and practices of good seamanship.
When I climb around in the mangroves and secure lines, wear your
heaviest -I' i' cares if they get wet? One slip and you will gash yourself on
the mangroves or the barnacles growing on them. Bleeding all over your boat for
hours is not the best way to ride out a storm.
Go around and talk to your neighbors. Get their addresses and contact infor
nation. Give them yours. See what you have that they may need, and vice versa.
Get everyone to agree to a VHF channel to monitor.
It is important to remember that just because you got there first it doesn't mean
that you have a right to take up the whole harbor. You can't set your anchors or
spring lines to take up a 300foot area; there just isn't room. Boats are going to be
as crowded as if they are in a marina. Set yourself up accordingly. Also, try very
hard not to line your masts up with the neighbors'. In a bad storm, boats under
bare poles will be knocked down to rail in the water, and you DON'T want to lock
your masts together.
Arriving early not only gives you a better spot but allows you to help everyone
else to :,, ii.. ..1i cram the next two dozen boats in. There will also be boats that
will be i 1 i 11 and left unattended and under prepared. If you have your act
together, you should take some time to deal with these temporarily halted project
tiles so they don't come down on you at 2AM.
Continued on next page
lower in the
This large capacity 6 liter engine comes in a compact package and only takes out only 225 hp. By comparison
our nearest competition take that out of a 4 liter engine. Running at a low 2500 rpm vs the competition's 3300
rpm or higher, the M225Ti will have a longer life (minimum 12,000 hour TBO) and quieter operation.
g p u pump has a longer life and less to go wrong while the waste gate turbo charger
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Perkin standii arinization excess hoses and belts
ve been eered and everything has easy access fors mit Perkins BBBE P
stress-free maintenance. m o
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Welcomes you to
A stepping stone as you
cruise through St. Vincent, Grenada and the Grenadines.
Come alongside our splendid jetty and replenish your
supplies of FUEL, OIL, WATER and ICE
at the cheapest prices in the Grenadines.
Call sign: "Golf Sierra" VHF channel 16
For further information call Glenn Clement or
,i, i ,, l... generally tries to run toward the moon. The tide starts running to
the east soon after moonrise, continues to run east until about an hour after the moon
reaches ts zenith (seeTIMEbelow) and then runs we i(47) 4I .. 1 0
Il l. I Ill I III I II h.. i r, the tide runs eastward; El I ... Il i I II I l h I
il 1 ,l I I I I l II I .. I l i I l I . l local.
I 1I ... I ...... 1 I i I I b il II new ands full moons.
FFor more information, see I fI i .....a i the back of allhImray Iolaire charts.
August 2007 21 1817 10 1112
DATE TIME 22 1910 11 1154
1 0150 23 2004 12 1234 (new)
2 0238 24 2100 13 1314
3 0325 25 2155 14 1355
4 0414 26 2248 15 1437
5 0505 27 2340 16 1522
6 0559 28 0000 (full) 17 1610
7 0657 29 0029 18 1700
8 0758 30 0119 19 1753
9 0859 31 0208 20 1847
10 0958 September 2007 21 1941
11 1054 DATE TIME 22 2034
12 1145 1 0300 23 2126
13 1232 (new) 2 0354 24 2216
14 1316 3 0452 25 2306
15 1357 4 0552 26 2356
16 1437 5 0653 27 0000 (full)
17 1517 6 0753 28 0048
18 1558 7 0849 29 0142
19 1642 8 0940 30 0242
20 1728 9 1028
Continued from previous page
If you are staying aboard and have to go on deck in a blow
You must be wearing a Type I lifejacket (not an inflatable) and a harness with a
tether. You will be blown around on deck no matter how nimble or large you are, and
a Type I jacket may absorb some of the blows. A deflated inflatable won't.
There are many reasons why an automatic inflatable lifejacket is -In.;-r- *= in
these situations. They inflate as quickly as an air bag in a car; in fact 1 i is
more accurate than "inflate". They tend to be triggered by moisture even on a good
day; they will inflate on you when you least expect it in hurricane conditions and you
will die of a heart attack from the surprise.
It is essential to have a really good lifejacket light, or C-strobe, on you. You could
be quickly swept a long way if you go overboard. The Type I lifejacket will not only
keep you afloat, but also protect you when you smash into something.
Wear a snorkel and mask. It is the only way you will see -possibly the only way
you will breathe -in rain driven at 60 or more miles an hour.
Carry a razor-sharp knife with a fixed blade. If you need to use one, there will be
no time to saw away with a dull blade or fumble around opening a closed blade. If
your regular sailing knife doesn't fit this category, get a utility knife from the hard
ware store. These are not only sharp, but can be fished out of a pocket and opened
one-handed. A jackknife may not be usable if you're holding on for dear life (literal
ly). For those occasions when you have a few seconds, a good quality multi-tool or
vise- '' 'I- .11 i: ffl if they are in your pocket.
-.... I 11 1. 1.1 can hold in your teeth is "handy".
When, as they say up in New England, its really coming on to blow:
Don't be a hero! There comes a point where the wind is too strong and/or there
is too much stuff flying about. There is little useful work you can do on deck in 100
knots; if you get hit by something, it will hurt. It may even kill. Stay below and let
Under no conditions ever try to fend off another boat or piling or even a dinghy! A
Boston Whaler surging alongside in three-foot seas and 40 knot winds can crush an
arm in a heartbeat.
Watch your barometer. If all your radios fail, you can still tell the :- f the
storm by wind shift and barometer fall. Keep notes. Remember the I.- I of
advance and radius of hurricane-force wind" forecast you heard. Keep that number
of hours in mind. The storm will pass. Eventually.
Take photos of your prep job. This shot shows a marina option: docklines tripled up
with firehose chafe guards, three anchors set on long rodes to hold the boat well off,
and more lines taken to a dock to seaward, giving multiple points of attachment
in all directions
After it's all over
Now is really the time to be calm and collected. There will be days if not weeks of
work to do. You aren't going to get it all done at once.
First of all, there will be more rumors than mosquitoes after the storm. "There's
25 dead in the morgue." "There are dozens missing." "There is another storm com
ing." "Massive looting has broken out." "The Navy is bringing in heavy-lift helicopters
to snatch everyone's boat off the beach." "A highly --int.-;;= disease has broken
out." "The government is bulldozing all the beached 1 11 the possible excep
tion of looting, none of the above are ever true. Don't believe any outlandish story
unless you saw it yourself. When hearing wild rumors, consider the source. The
wildest stories usually come from those who were least prepared beforehand.
Don't over-react to the euphoria of being alive. If it is blowing 40 knots, that is
only a quarter of the force of the 80 knots 11. ..- I ..I I ...d it will feel like noth
ing. Remember, though, that on a regular i . i* I I i. .11 would send everyone
running for cover.
Look around you. Someone is worse off than you are and can use some help. Look
for distress signals: an upside-down national flag, a strobe light, an orange flag with
a black square and ball. Couples and sing h;n-l.r 1--- I - -1 ---- -1--ith
l-r --- on't count on seeing someone i .... I .1 .
I11 .I .,, ...- may be gone, radios shorted out. Go and knock on hulls as soon as
it is safe to do so.
If you are in distress, think seriously before firing off a meteor or parachute flare.
They will go a long distance with the wind. They burn phosphorus which is unaf
fected by water. They will start a fire on even the :. .1 .. 1 1 .. 1 or boat they
fall on. Much safer is a floating orange smoke or h ... I I. II -... I II .. Hint: SOLAS
. 1- flares are about three times more efficient than USCG or French approved
S.i ," flares. Even better is a strobe light, either from a lifejacket or your man-over
SAnd now, the "S" word, as in salvage: Every bc.t -1-;.;= to somebody. A boat
adrift and abandoned at sea belongs to someone, e' ,. i ,i ,- the insurance compa
ny. Same thing with a boat on the bottom, no matter how long it's been there (the
lawyers had lots of fun after the Titanic was found). Likewise with a boat on a beach.
You cannot claim or strip a boat, no matter how trashed, no matter what it did to
you. There are literally 500 years of Admiralty case law to decide claims. You ignore
precedent at your peril. Get a lawyer to "arrest" a boat that has harmed you. You did
take pictures before the storm, right? Take more now.
After the storm is the time for heightened awareness and caution. There will be
debris everywhere, much of it hidden under water, mud or other flotsam. Be careful!
This is the time that people step on things and fall or gash themselves or pinch fin
gers, tear muscles or break limbs. Septic tanks ashore have overflowed. There is a
primordial soup of bacteria floating around just waiting to infect you. There will be
lots of work to do; it will take a while to get it all done. Rushing things will probably
be counter-productive; it could be disastrous. We did all our running around and
screaming before and during the storm; afterwards is time to settle down for a slow
but steady recovery.
Nothing has provoked more impassioned opinions than the questions of whether
to sail away from an approaching storm or tuck the boat inshore, and, if tucked in
an anchorage, whether to stay aboard or go ashore.
In preparing for a storm, here's a formula to base your decisions on: '-, i r
up as the square of the speed; that means double the wind speed is i i .....- '
force. You've been out in 60-knot line squalls. Think 100 knots ain't that much worse?
You can figure the proportional force as: 60 squared is 3,600; 100 squared is 10,000;
120 squared is 14,400 and 150 squ.. i .- ..... .__ .. ..1 yven times
the force ofthat 60-knot squall. If y .. i. . ... i n ,. i, ii ...i. .1 you don't
really deep-in-your-guts-know what five hours of 120 knots of wind is.
Let's look at some Compass reader feedback from experienced sailors over the years.
Sail Out or Tuck In?
Some folks are adamant that staying in the projected path of a storm -especial
ly a big storm, where 100 knots is nearly twice as bad as 70 -is, well, nuts.
"Why not move? If the hurricane turns away, so what? One can soon return and
the risk to the cruising home has been reduced or eliminated by putting distance
between the hurricane's path and the boat.... Moving your cruising home to anchor
farther from a hurricane's possible path is an important part of the strategy."
have in the past given talks on hurricane preparation in Grenada with John
and Melodye Pompa, and John's favorite line is to ask us where we consider the
STAY OR GO?
safest place to be. Our short answer is'SOMEWHERE ELSE!' Jut 1- f lat
itude can make the difference between being safe or being in a i. -
"A hurricane is a very large weather system, with, as an average, tropical-storm
force winds extending out 150 miles and hurricane-force winds 30. This means the
maximum winds are at the eye wall, and it's down to 'only' 70 knots or so, 30 miles
away.... We weathered Ivan 30 miles north of the eye. My guess was 60 knots of
wind; I heard that 70 was measured."
So, if you can move 30, 40 or 50 miles away from the eye, your odds of surviving
go up dramatically.
But other folks think that trying to go somewhere else in advance of the storm is
playing Russian Roulette with three chambers loaded, if there is any chance of being
[ I .... storms we've weathered at anchor. Nearly 20 years ago my sailing
mentor, Jim Schlake of the Harbinger, told me about hurricanes. 'The best thing is
to be where they ain't.' ...I had told Schlake that I thought putting to sea to avoid it
sounded like a good strategy. 'You don't want to be out there in one of those.' What
then? 'The mangroves,' he said, 'are the answer.' I am finally a believer."
"As for the many barstool admirals v i. I .' i ..II... in the face of a
hurricane, if any of them actually have i 1 i I -,, i, I II I encourage them
to do so, as the article they write if they survive would be well worth reading. Some
large boats, and many fast boats, do in fact do this when storms approach. Their
captains and crews dread setting out, and are very relieved to return. Surviving a
hurricane at sea requires a very well-found vessel, an experienced crew, enough
speed that avoidance of the worst parts of the storm is possible, and courage.
Furthermore, be aware that your yacht will not be the only boat out there in the
storm; that every 1 .' -- --i .1 -= l in the Caribbean will be out trying to hang
out in the'quiet' "' .,I I I' -I '... just like you are."
"If the hurricane is expected to go anywhere south of St. Lucia, Brad is exactly
right -don't go to sea to dodge it, instead find yourself a hurricane hole and stuff
yourself into it. Do all the preparations that are possible I r ; .. 1 ,,,- boat, then
make the decision whether to stay on the boat or to go .- I
Don Streets statement, above, touches on exactly the perils of going to sea in the
phrase "if the hurricane is expected to...". Hurricane Ivan was headed for the islands
in 2004. Three days before it hit Grenada, t ti-. --. i --t 1 to go over Antigua
and the Virgins. At least one boat left St. C. 1 i i .1 to the south, only
to sail into the path of the storm. No one, especially the National Hurricane Center,
knows exactly where the storm is going. At their website (www.nhc.noaa.gov) the pros
remind us of the old 1-2-3 Rule: "The 1-2-3 Rule, ...... .1 I ....1.1 I ......... refers
to the rounded long-term NHC/TPC forecast errc. I I. .... ...... .i iiles at
24-48-72 hours, respectively..... The NHC/TPC does not warrant that avoiding these
danger areas will eliminate the risk of harm from tropical cyclones. (NHC emphasis.)
L i. . ..... f these systems are advised to continually monitor the
1.i -i I .-I I I ... the TPC/NHC and proceed at their own risk."
As another reader quoted notes, a hurricane can cover a very broad area with trop
ical-storm-force winds extending out from the eye some 150 miles, and hurricane
force winds 30 miles. But remember that maximum winds are at the eye wall,
decreasing to ("only") 70 knots or so at about 30 miles away. "n-- i--n harbor is a
small, small target for a direct hit by the eye, and even a near :...- I r 30 miles
is (probably, maybe, should be) a survivable experience.
Everyone on both sides of this question is in agreement on one point:
"But if you are going to go to sea to dodge a hurricane, you cannot dither around,
you must stick to your plans, and you must get as far south of the hurricane as
FAST as you can. If th( .. 1 1, 1,. then motorsail (no breakdowns allowed)."
"We stress that THE . I . i. SAIL AWAY MUST BE MADE EARLY. You can
not afford to keep waiting and hoping the hurricane will turn away; by then it will
be too late. You should aim for a minimum of at least three d r 1. "
"...the decision to run must be made three to four days in ... I I ... in
order to get into port and make adequate preparations on the chance that the storm
track changes. Coming into a hurricane hole less than 24 hours before the closest
forecasted track position endangers all the others in that hurricane hole who arrived
in time to make complete preparations."
So if you're going, go at least three days ahead of projected landfall and have the
ability aboard to monitor weather forecasts in case the storm changes course. The
farther north in the islands you are, the greater the risk that you won't be able to get
far enough south in time.
Continued on page 28
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Tel: (784) 488-8479 Fax: (784) 456- 230
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best pnces in Grenada at our two
conveniently located supermarkets
Whether its canned goods, dairy
products, meat, fresh vegetables
or fruits, tolletnes, household goods,
or a fine selection of liquor and wine,
The Food Fair has it all and a lot more
JONAS BROWNE & HUBBARD (G'da) Ltd
8 am to 5:30 pm
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Tel: (473) 440-2588
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Land and houses for sale
For full details see our website:
or contact Carolyn Alexander at
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Tel: (473) 443 8182 Fax: (473) 443 8290
We also handle Villa Rentals &
Property Management on Carriacou
we've been in Venezuela since September
2006 and are 1 ...1.1 enjoying it. We are
also very awar I 1. litical situation, lis
tening to the speeches of Chavez, talking to locals pro
and con El Presidente, and just seeing with our own
eyes what's going on.
Many cruisers wondered this season whether or not
to come to Venezuela. We had the same decision to
make last year. We came here to see for ourselves and
make up our own minds -a decision we don't regret.
Unfortunately bad news travels at light speed, good
news doesn't leave the gate. We'd like to debunk some
of the rumors currently making the rounds.
One rumor is that marinas ar' 1t-- taken over and
foreign boats confiscated. TI. i is that the
Venezuelan government controls all ports -as most
countries do -but is not interested in seizing mari
nas or visiting yachts. My thought is if they wanted to
seize some expensive boats they would confiscate the
Venezuelan ones, as our .- .. i1. .. 1..... com-
pared to theirs. Besides, .1 1 i i .. I docu
mented foreign vessels, he would commit crimes
against the countries of the confiscated boats, and I
don't think he's that stupid. If there was such a risk,
I'm sure the embassies would warn us. There are two
nets you can sign up with, which are connected with
the US Embassy and they will inform us if there is
anything questionable: Venezuela Net:
firstname.lastname@example.org; Puerto La Cruz Net: PLC
One recent rumor was that Venezuelan Customs
were going to confiscate a US-registered boat, so the
owner sailed to Bonaire. Now here is the catch: the
boat owner is a Venezuelan citizen and legally needs
to register his boat in Venezuela -which he didn't
do. In ;-.l a boat can be in Venezuela for 18
months i i paying taxes on it. Most likely he will
bring the boat back in 45 days, as that is the require
ment to get another 18 months. Somewhere down the
line he will get caught and will either pay taxes on his
boat or lose it. I just hope that this will not make the
rumor list again. We have similar rules in the US:
Florida, for one example, allows visiting boats only 60
days to be in Florida. Play by the rules and there is
nothing to worry about.
Another rumor is that foreign boats can't get fuel.
This rumor started in Puerto La Cruz, where there was
a special restriction: a foreign boat was able to buy
1,000 litres of fuel at the local price then every litre
above at the international price. But at one fuel dock,
employees were running a scam to put money from
the fuel sold at the international price into their own
pockets. So no fuel was being sold to foreign vessels.
This fuel dock is now closed, as the owner was found
to be smuggling fuel out of here to sell in the
Caribbean islands. We are now allowed again to buy
fuel in downtown Puerto La Cruz at the international
price. Most cruisers go to Mochima or Cumana, where
you can get fuel at the local price.
About the rumored food shortage: Chavez put a
price cap on staple foods such as eggs, chicken, beef,
milk and butter. It's a ridiculously low cap and no
merchant wants to sell goods under cost, so it's not
unusual to see a grocery store with a completely
empty meat counter. Pork is readily available, howev
er, and so is fish. The hardest thing to find is butter,
but it is sold about every three weeks so just buy extra
and you're okay. With meat, you just need to find out
when it is delivered; you can even place orders. The
local market in downtown Puerto La Cruz, easy to
reach from all marinas, is a fun place to shop and has
meat, chicken and ..- all the time, not to mention
the most wonderful I -i, veggies and fruits. You also
get to meet the locals and learn Spanish.
Regarding Customs, Guardia Costa and Guardia
NacionaL There are yacht clearance agents here that
will check you in and out and they know what they're
doing. You also can check in by yourself; I've heard it
is easy. As long as your paperwork is in order, you
have nothing to worry about with officials. The same
Guardia Costa patrols the canals, mainly on the week
for example, is a wonderful marina but is surrounded
by barrios and cruisers are warned over and over not
to walk around the neighborhood, and not to take the
bus but to take a taxi instead, which is very afford
able. I cannot tell you how many ignore these warn
ings and -guess what? if you walk through a bar
rio you're likely to get robbed.
All the marinas here have security guards 24/7.
Play by the rules and there
is nothing to worry about
There are wonderful taxi drivers, including Arnaldo,
Leo, Andres, Raul ari. 1 1. -I .1 ...i.i. and
know where all the : I ...I -. I *. ... are.
You can hire them hourly for a very reasonable price;
they will drive you around and translate for you. Some
even will take care of your boat while you are visiting
home or traveling, and are honest and reliable.
We like to stay at Marina Maremares; it is a bit more
expensive than the other marinas but it is in the
upscale neighborhood of Lecheria where it is safe to
walk around without having to worry about getting
robbed. Within a short walking distance are a mall
and many wonderful restaurants.
Do the locals hate Americans? Absolutely not; they
have been nothing but friendly to us and treat us with
the utmost respect. I'm sure there are some Chavez
fanatics that do hate Americans, but we haven't met
one yet. Many people are, however, concerned about
losing their jobs because of the rumors that keep
We don't deny that Venezuela has political prob
lems. And, yes, some anchorages are questionable;
just use common sense precautions (such as having a
buddy boat) when .-.I.... losee anchorages.
We love it here, I I .1 and are going to spend
another hurricane season. Venezuela is a beautiful
country and has so much to offer. We feel strongly when
we tell you this: Give Venezuela a chance, visit, see for
yourself how beautiful it is. Lil ii
If you decide to come here,: I I. I '. I us on
VHF channel 72 or stop by and say hello. We can fill
you in about your new home away from home. We
wish you fnll-n"'in' eeas and may the wind blow you
safely to 1..- .... 11 country.
Sid and Manuela Olshefski are cruising the
Caribbean aboard Paradise.
ends to keep the little spoiled kids in their dinghies at
bay. We've never been stopped and they always greet
us with a friendly "Hola".
The latest rumor, about driving in Venezuela being
questionable, is absurd. Rather than facing drug
planting or accusations of being rn ^-'-ri- -n -r the
only real danger lies in the crazy i .. i take
trips by car through the country, and so do many of
our friends, and have never had a problem. There are
a lot of checkpoints where Guardia Nacional make
sure the car's papers are in order. We've been stopped
at these twice in all our travels, and were treated with
the utmost respect. Also taking buses on long trips is
no problem; it's a cheap way to travel and is as com-
fortable as flying first class while enjoying movies.
Flying within the country is very reasonable, too. All
travel in this country offers reduced fares for passen
gers over 60 years of age.
Is it safe in Puerto La Cruz? It's as safe as you want
it to be; there is no such thing as a city without any
crime. You have the same problems in the United
States or anywhere else. Therefore it does happen here
that cruisers and locals get robbed. Bahia Redonda,
A First-Hand Look
by Sid and Manuela Olshefski
hristmas 1994 was the first time I anchored at
Windward, Carriacou. This is a harbour on the
east side of the southernmost of the inhabited
Grenadines. Then it was the quaintest, most remark
able, most unchanged part of the real Caribbean,
exactly what I was cruising to find. The people were
friendly, the fishing and diving were excellent, and the
rum was strong, very strong.
The last time I was here the island was taking quite
a beating from Hurricane Lenny. It was 1999, almost
eight years ago. I had left Bequia after checking a "what
looked to be safe" Net satellite photo only to be awak
ened in Chatham Bay, Union Island, by the roar of an
unleashed sea. Looking for i I .1, 1, i,,,
misdirected ground swell, I .i i I 1 1i I I-
the port of entry and biggest village of Carriacou, only
to discover it was hidden by the approaching 20-plus
foot waves. For two roller-coaster days I had three
hooks set in the slight protection of Sandy Island, a
tiny islet just off the Carriacou shore.
The small island of Carriacou, home to fewer than
7,000 souls, took serious licks from that storm. Most
of Hillsborough's sea front and main street were
crushed or eroded by the violent waves. Usually tran
quil Tyrell Bay, a favorite yacht anchorage on the west,
lost its beach road and several businesses. Th .ii 1
and harbor of Windward, inside the
Carriacou's east side, remained protected from Lenny,
but later Hurricanes Ivan and Emily left some land
scars and a few boats high and dry.
I recently returned to Carriacou to check out local
friends whom my wife had met but never visited. I had
been forewarned by other boaties that Windward had
changed, so I wasn't certain if she would see what I
always craved -basic Caribbean. We usually stay
away from posh marinas and hotels. White-jacketed
waiters and drinks with paper umbrellas are actually
a turn-off for my wife. Our luxury is really hot water
baths, really cold air conditioning, and to enjoy both
while watching remote-controlled cable TV; none of
which we would find in Windward.
What we did find was a relief. Things hadn't changed
much in that village and all of Carriacou seemed to be
faring better than big brother Grenada.
Continued on next page
. 'i v. .d.
The Ba-In-Tie Island
i truaLonTat WreTnalrTes -oara Fiouse in (arnacou, wUIr gawuuarzea rooj, gmngerreaa Irum, arajuu xea ouuers or
ventilation between the sash windows. The lumber in the foreground is from a boatbuilding project
IT'S MUCH MORE
THAN A MARINA: IT'S HOME!
~M, rIr,;- I
5 /I L I .-.
Over and over again our guests refer to our marina as their "Home"!
Join us this summer and continue to enjoy the hospitality.
S24 hour security
120 concrete slip berths
SElectricity: 220V/ 50amp; 110V/300amps
(single phase and three phase)
Fuel dock and bunkering
SFree satellite TV at each slip
SWireless internet, banks and laundry within the complex
Pick-up and drop-off from major supermarkets
We monitor VHF channels 16 & 79A (alpha American system)
P.O. Box 4540, Airport Road, Sint Maarten, N.A., Caribbean
Tel: 599-5442309 Fax: 599-5443378
Visit our website: www.sbmarina.biz E-mail: email@example.com
Continuedfrom previous page
(The islands of Carriacou, Grenada and Petite
Martinique form one nation.) The little island still has no
movie theaters (but maybe a few more DVD renters) and
finding a restaurant open after eight o'clock on a weeknight
seems almost impossible. The development and changes
that have occurred seem to benefit all. There seems to be
an air of optimism and a definite lack of idleness.
Construction is providing a lot of work, not on
hotels, but on mostly attractive private homes for res
idents returning from abroad. There are actually two
haulouts now, side by side, on the south side of Tyrell
Bay, and both are busy. For years the older railway
was home to the previous owner's wooden, termite
lunch, yacht. The newer yard, managed by Jerry
Stewart, is wedged between a steep driveway and a
shallow reef and presently accommodates about 20
boats on the hard. My good friend, Hope McLawrence,
was putting the finishing touches on his floating cata
maran home the Sunday we visited. The Alexis family
who helped build the new boatyard has a fleet of ves
sels servicing most of Carriacou's needs from basic
"get me home" transport, to food and sundries and
inter-island freight. The biggest change they've
brought to the island is their Hummer vehicle.
A sizable locally owned marina is slowly forming on
the north side of Tyrell bordering a sadly sick and dying
mangrove. Usually I'm against islands changing to
accommodate visitors, '"i1 l-li r- h hotels with water
sucking, under-used .."- Carriacou's main
developments mean much-needed jobs that revolve
around boats, which is this island's claim to fame;
locally-made wooden boats crewed by superb sailors.
S. at surrounds Windward, is named
fo: 1. I' -I. .1 spring that nourished th- -r .i
Scottish fishermen. Four wooden boats, not I I
ent in style from their ancestors, are now in various
stages of completion here. These boats differ only in
the type of fastener used; evolving from bent steel rein
forcing rods to silicon-coated bronze screws and bolts.
Now instead of a rum bottle being drained at the end
of a work week, its Campari and soda. The back
ground music is hip-hop and not classic calypso.
Close to the Fishing Depot, Bernard Compton started
an impressive sloop for his brother "Uncle C" Cyril on
February 17th. She is now completely planked, decked,
and caulked with deckhouse and hatch in place. Work
continues on the interior and casting of the lead-ballast
keel before there will be another memorable launching
party. This might be the record for the fastest building
of a Carriacou vessel. A neatly-painted sign warns off
work-idling questions unless you brought enough liba
tions. Nearby, past a pile of local cedar, three newly
painted and detailed racing sloops await inter-island
contests. The Comptons and Cheesman, Gordon, and
roam unfettered everywhere. Almost everyone's yard is
plowed ready for promised rain before planting crops
of pigeon peas and corn. Carriacou's weather is best
described as ten months drought, two months flood.
At the end of the bay is Carriacou Dave's Bayaleau
BP -^ -
p '-- -- ".
Bernard Compton is building this impressive sloopfor his brother 'Uncle C' at the village of Windward
Calvin Patrice are some of the older shipwrights still
quite active building boats along Windward's shoreline
and competing in the sailing regattas.
Windward still has its three stores, recognized by
their outside color. The white one at the Sunset Disco
bar is a good source of hardware. Yellow-painted
Mallick's across from the post office has the best stock
from food and clothes to fishing equipment and liquor,
and blue W's at the "T" in the road provides essentials.
Fishermen and divers sell their catch. Goats and cows
Resort. This is not development per se, but one of the
most tasteful expressions of tourism. Its four West
Indian-style self-contained cottages are like a back-in
time experience. If there really is a million-dollar view,
it's from his deck looking out on the multi-sea blues
towards Union Island and Petite Mart ... i.. -i i -.
on, or rather slipping on, Jack Iron ......
provided the stimulus for many Caribbean tales while
anchored off Dave's compound.
Continued on next page
I- GRENADA MARINE
TRUE BLUE BAY MARINA
RESORT & VILLAS
Dock, moor or set anchor at True Blue Bay located in the south
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dishes are a must at our waterside Dodgy Dock Lounge Bar and
True Blue Restaurant. Located five minutes walk from Spice
Island Marine Services and five minutes drive from the airport.
Aquanauts Dive Center
VHF Channel 16
473 443 8783
Continued from previous page
One of those tales happened as we were about to go
out fishing in Dave's skiff. My wife, not a fan of small
boats in blustery winds as it was that day, said she saw
a snake in the boat. The skiff is totally white with the
outboard painted -rn.,- and I couldn't see anything
resembling a snak -1. waded back ashore swearing
I was blind. Finally I saw the snake coiled under the
motor head where it swivels. This proved not a small
snake, but a five-foot tree boa. How did it get out to the
boat? As a couple of Jack-and-sodas laughingly calmed
farther, the Dumfries Estate.
None of these three undesignated histo
marks are meant to attract visitors. Don't lo
as it seems to be part of Grenada's overall to
tique to let the sites' locations remain a m
adequate museum in Hillsborough hardly'
these ruins, and good maps are hard to fin
Dumfries must have been a large, wea
with another huge well and one building
large stone cistern. Coming from the beac
thing you'll see is the graveyard. These rui
Strange stowawa. Before we can go fis g, Dave extracts afifoot tree boa from unr the motor he
Strange stowaway. Before we can gofshing, Dave extracts afivefoot tree boafrom under the motor he
this incident, two young local boys paddled up in a sea
kayak straddled with a 25-pound shark they had
speared. Carriacouju:t --. : --1 t--
Following the road -i 11. .. 11 1. ... I -; lies
the unrestored indigo factory, almost hidden in the
dense bush. The path to the fieldstone-lined well is
worth a bit of sweat to understand the constant
importance of water to the life of these islands.
Farther along, approachable 1 i" .. ..1i the public
refuse dump, lie the ruins ol 1' .. factory and
at the end of a track that most vehicles cot
on a dry day, but you still have to park a
you hike it from Harvey Vale in Tyrell, u
Belmont village, go early and carry lots
These places haven't changed in many d
are worth the effort.
Taxi vans can provide a reasonable tour,
rent a car from Wayne Bullen in Hills
Quality Jeeps in Harvey Vale, but you h
chase a Grenada driver's permit. Buckle u
teous police will hit you with an EC$1,500 fine, for
orical land your own safety.
ok for signs, Around every turn the many undeveloped beaches,
urism mys slightly slanting old cedar shake cottages with hand
mystery. The made gingerbread trim, trademark sailboats, and
y mentions unique, lo,. i i i .. i '.- i ,1 i.
d. moments. I i ,. i 1i
lthy estate the hospital above Hillsborough where the turquoise sea
ruin has a backdrops cannons and sugar mill towers.
h, the first We did find a few slight changes, a sparkling new
ins truly lie health clinic along the beach road that no longer
passes across the airport's runway. The man who sat
in the little hut chasing 1 .. I ..... 1. -I 1 1. the
tarmac an-1 H -l-i;- the . 1 I I .. .- .. out
of ajob. .. I- ad on page 28) seems to be the
It's still difficult to get fresh produce in Hillsborough
even with the new market that also doesn't have a sign
." from the main street. The I i 'I... i i 11. best
bet. There are several nice i I, i ... i ... early
dinner, including The Green Roof, Calaloo, Excelsior's
S Butterfly, Ava's, and the Sandi Island Cafe.
The charismatic rumshop still exists, with the Old
Man's in Harvey Vale and the Eagle next to the town
dock. In fact, in Hillsborough I counted five rumshops
in a row ready to quench the thirst of travel] I I.
S off the Osprey ferry, which travels twice a i ....
S Grenada's capital, St. George's. We found cold drinks,
great lunches, and spectacular views from Bill
Paterson's Place opposite the "new" internet cafe.
Always smiling, Bill seems even more personable than
he was almost a decade ago. On his beach-front patio,
rebuilt after Lenny, locals and strangers trade tales,
reminiscences, and observations on world politics, and
the changing climate.
Another Carriacou fixture is Max at Silver Diving. He
provided scuba tanks, good dive locations, and obser
ad vations every day. Another thing that hasn't -n.;;--1
i-l. ..i I I .. didalcurrent, butthe: ......
Si I........ i, If you are diving in Carriacou,
uld traverse drift with your boat.
nd walk. If The cost of living is going up, along with the water
p and over level from the changing climate, they say. There will
of liquids, always be wars and better job opportunities in far-off
decades and places. Now you can watch a movie on your telephone
and talk to another continent over your hand-held
or you can computer. The world is quickly changing, yet
borough or Carriacou, and especially Windward, is like a time
ave to pur machine taking you back to a less stressing, more har
p, or cour- monious yesteryear.
ISAI LA MAKING 1
0 oar up Ic inrmm
Geor & Furlers in Stock i A6 !,l ,r, in sl
THE OTHER PANAMA CANAL
by Julia Bartlett
In the tranquility of the Bahia de Almirante, on the
Panamanian side of the border with Costa Rica, it is
easy to forget thatjust outside the trade winds do blow
and the waves can build uninterrupted across the
breadth of the Caribbean Sea. Running downwind in a
well-found yacht this hardly presents a problem but in
a round-bottomed dugout cayuco, loaded over the
gunwales with bananas, "hay much problema."
The 15-mile-long Changuinola Canal --- -; i
1 ..... 1, 1 .. . i ; 1 . ro u l i 1.
1 i i i 1.... i .. waves. Itruns par
allel to the coast and it enabled bananas, coconuts,
cocoa, sugar cane, and turtle products to be trans
ported from Isla Colon to the port of Changuinola
without going on the "outside."
The "outside" is viewed with deep mistrust in this
aquatic society even today.
The canal wasn't the engineering feat that the
Panama Canal was, but it was a vision achieved and
mainly responsible for the most prosperous era in his
tory for Isla Colon until the very recent tourist and
Today the quickest way to get to i1 .,....... i from
Bocas Town is still via the canal. Ir I I .1 1lricker
and most often the only way to get to places.
I caught the water bus from Bocas Town on a shim
mering still morning while the birds were still singing
and was taken aback when everyone put on a life jack
et, including the driver, and this in a town where even
the police ride their bikes after dark sin luz.
We reversed out of our slip, then the gear lever was
slid forward and we took off like a stunt boat, the bow
coming about ten feet off the water. That's what it felt
like, believe me.
Personally, although I have raced cars, I have never
liked going fast on water. It seems to me that water is
a much less predictable element than tarmac but I bet
it has a similar consistency if you hit it with your face
at, let's say, 90 miles an hour, which our water taxi
was doing at a rough guess; far too fast for a sailor,
anyway. 111. ... 11 water had looked like glass
when we I 11 I in my body was aware that I
was trying to stay seated on a wooden bench.
I breathed a sigh of relief when we eventually turned
towards the mangroves of the mainland.
But we didn't slow down.
I had thought that I had seen a break in the glossy
tangle, where possibly the canal started, but we were
not heading for it. We were heading instead for an
impenetrable density of extremely .' 1'. 1 1 ... red
mangrove. The only reassurance I .... that
nobody else seemed to be panicking.
At the very last second, when I was actually saying
my prayers with my eyes closed, the world slid side
ways. Fortunately I still had my vice-like grip on the
seat in front. The branches of the mangrove scraped
along one side of the boat as our driver brushed the
slalom stake stuck in the mud with the other.
Continued on next page
Motoring up the Changuinola Canal from the cruising mecca of Bocas del Rio to the town of Changuinola,
we passed our water bus driver's home
i^^ h "Ilr lrlf-' iH'.f J *< 1 .I 'rn l'< "ri ^ i> l'*n-l'
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aw W O hs w1.VW*,'t- m
,.iL < lJ JI1 N. 'J1. A Ij*f.J.r.e'r W.t.r- ...i.Jf l d.'t:1
Ntiiunt mait& psart th EtarnMtr Aeuha tsd IL Cavr Mn i 1itrek
qyl mrixfT 91 thh pdlIPfqw wdc*nt al wrm*lrtfty (nQnTlb fij h.ibl5fl
a'f-'L^^ r'.n ..J \',: I- Ij* 'k iY "C. p* XI lh I iul ; 1
.- *J I ait-1. r Vr r- i e- -j 'k jr. 1 i r- Pr 1
rd -.r r.i if- ..l h .i -r 1.I7 j j3 11 )- a%., F .
tfrnO4fl r wttn arm Jow.nr aMC Cf mMf*i J- A f^y quiNppa
t1O IW2 5I QZ0 fn llJ 88-Ml t wvwmhnm tOrmlarjnawm I Chnrwl T I rnaiBmn Matrsn tMtplct .ofjnud A*t#
Continued from previous page
Another swerve and we adopted a more sedate pace
and I was able to prise my hands open and eventually
I stopped shaking enough to reach for my camera.
Then we entered the canal, which was the gap I had
seen but which could only be entered from this con- ..............
cealed channel. .' '"'
strewn with driftwood. Then we followed the river
inland between banks dotted with snowy egrets. Now
the waterscape began to change and we passed float
ing islands of water iris; then there was more water
iris and more until we were ploughing a virgin track
through solid meadows of green and purple.
Our destination appeared in the distance: a small cov
ered dock with a shack selling ice cream and soft drinks.
To get into the bustling town of Changuinola we
caught a $2 taxi. Along the road were the Chiquita
plantations, the remnants of the once-thriving banana
industry before a mysterious pest attacked it in 1915.
The industry died a slow agonising death and by 1934
there was hardly a tree left. Today bananas are grown
once more and the avenues of plantations are tra
versed by a ski-lift type system on which bananas and
Changuinola town comes as a shock after the pris
It is a rude frontier-type town full of blaring horns,
garish colours and vitality. Clouds of black emissions
What had started as a commercial enterprise is now
a ..,I Irom the gods.
II.- is better than the jungle ride at the Magic
Kingdom," my travel companion said in a hushed awe.
Our driver pulled over to his home on stilts to drop off
some milk. ii .... r baby had been the reason
for the fligl i ... I he chatted, I saw a king
fisher dive and a huge white heron standing like a stat
ue in the shallows. Everybody aboard seemed to hold
their breath, including the folk on their way to work.
Then we chugged off again picking up speed but
slowing to pass the occasional local traffic in cayucos.
Sometimes we wound past fallen trees and some
times the jungle formed a cathedral over our heads.
The water was a mosaic reflection of clear browns and
greens. The perfume from the flowers was almost over
whelming, 11 .i I i 1i..., I out in small
clearings .. i .i i1 i 11 I .-1. I ... the shallows.
The boat pulled into a wooden jetty at the turtle
reserve to pick up a volunteer, and there on the oppo
site bank a family of howler monkeys peered quizzi
callyatus from bet, .. 1, 1.. 1. 1 ..1. toofar
away and too well-c ... ... i i ... ... . I made
myself a mental promise to seriously upgrade at the
Shortly afterward we turned the corner where the
sea is just on the other side of a wild stretch of beach
Changuinola (left) is frontier type town where you
can buy almost everything you need and get a good
The canal (above), running parallel to the coast,
provides small craft a safe route protected from
The water buses here (right) are quicker than their
land based counterparts
made me hold my breath as trucks passed. My friend
and I appeared to be the only t-- ;-i in town that
day. But it is the sort of town I. I, are patient,
you can buy almost everything you need, including a
type of bottom paint.
Shopping over, we downed a few beers, ate an amaz
ingly delicious and inexpensive meal, and wandered
back to catch another taxi to the canal.
It took the driver some time to stow everyone's good
ies in the boat. He was obviously well practiced in the
art as everything from stoves to bicycle wheels disap
peared. Then we reversed gently back out into the
Shopping:- ... ,i,,,,. i-utif all shopping trips were
like this one i i i I ., i to them with anticipation.
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atitudes )AtU4& i
THE ISLAND CHAIN
by Mary Robinson
Our yacht, Skybird, was laid up on the hard for the 2006 hurricane season at one
of the many boatyards in Chaguaramas, Trinidad. Aft-r 1-. -hi;; in .----. --r we
spent a few days in a slip on the quayside and then ... 11. I I i .i ... r in
nearby, uninhabited Scotland Bay. Here the early morning call of the parrots in the
marina was replaced by the weird wail of howler monkeys in the forest. We tested
all boat systems, the engine, the autopilot. : i.... i..tly running fine.
We returned to anchor in the deep, dirty ., i ........... with its swirling
tidal currents to do our last shopping in Trinidad. We laid in a good supply of duty
free wines and spirits, collected our liferaft from servicing and went to Customs and
....... i .,. 1 ,o check out of Trinidad & i i .
I anchor in Scotland Bay .. .... I a few hours of sleep. The weather
forecast was good and our plan was to leave at 2AM for the 85-mile passage up to
Grenada. But at the appointed hour there were serious squalls with high wind and
rain, so we decided to wait and see what dawn would bring.
Dawn saw moderation in the wind and broken sunshine so we decided to set out,
even though it was unlikely that we could reach Grenada before dusk. We emerged
from Boca de Monos, the narrow passage between Trinidad and Monos Island, into
open water, to find ourselves leaping and pitching in the irregular seas common to
that area. Then came a sound that struck fear in our minds: the engine began to
"hunt." We shut it down before it got any worse. At least we were now in open water
and could lay our course.
There was a good wind and we made a fast passage under sail but the autopilot,
which (like the engine) had worked perfectly in the sheltered waters of Trinidad, now
started to yaw through 20 degrees or more. Such a yaw was unacceptable as we
were sailing close-hauled. No adjustment would cure it so we were forced to hand
j_ . . -- .
is Tosilgaw A
-- -- - -* , ..>--. > ... .. . 7 "
steer. As squalls came through, regular adjustments to the sails were needed. My
husband, Alan, worked on the sails while I clung to the wheel. We pressed forward
S.1]-in. -i.t knots, or more at times, and eating up the miles towards Grenada.
just after darkness fell. But the engine failed to restart as we
approached Prickly Bay on Grenada's south coast, so we made our way in and
dropped anchor under sail.
After a week or two, once our engine problems were solved, we cruised Grenada,
Carriacou and the southern Grenadines. This would be our fourth and final season
in an area that had always been one of our favourite Caribbean cruising grounds.
4 Spain (
jjwpj;sncin Cnn 10 840 P1 *
This year, however, nothing seemed to be quite so good as before. Perhaps it was
our age. As Alan passed his 70th birthday and I clungy 69th, all Sybird's gear seemed
heavier and more physically demanding. She has no self tailing winches, no in-mast
furling, and no stack-pack. Her booms and goosenecks are high. Sailing seemed all
too much hard work and had begun to lose its attraction. To add to this, although
iAfter a week or t, one ore e p problem d, it would take many more hours
Carriacou and te southern. completely restore our confidence. We still had no faith at
all in the autopilot.
Worry breeds dissatisfThi. .. ... ,, s ..... i.. year seemed quite so wonderful as
it shone out of te As rosy passed his ... ......day and So it appeared to us that even the
big supermarkets in Grenada were underst and ooseover-cks priced. The costs of fruit
and veg in the lovely produce market in Union Island seemed to have escalated
beyond our means. The anchorages seemed overcrowded; noisy outboard motors
had proliferated. The snorkeling seemed to have lost its allure with fewer fish an
it shone out of te rosy So it appeared to us that even the
bAnd then there were the dogs. Ala and I concluded that their e three types of
boadog. One is the "perfect gue ard dog". He is obedient, loyal and quiet. He only
beyond our means. The anchorages seemed overcrowded; noisy outboard motors
had proliferated. The snorkeling seemed to have lost its allure wit fewer fish and
And then there were the dogs Alan and I concluded tat there are three types of
boat dog One is te perfect guard dog". He is obedient, loyal and quiet He only
barks when faced with a stranger boarding his master's boat with evil intent. This
is a rare breed indeed, perhaps almost non-existent. A far commoner breed is the
persistent yapper". He yells his head off whenever any vessel or dinghy approach-
es within 50 yards. If the anchorage is busy he is yapping away h aanearly all the time.
The worst breed of all is the "lonely howler". If a lonely howler is left alone on board,
he wails his solitude to the sky and to all the anchorage. He will only cease his vocal
complaint when approached; then, in delight, he will welcome anyone, friend or foe,
who will alleviate his loneliness. Perhaps all three breeds of dog are unhappy as they
wander the deck looking for a tree to pee against.
We made several experiments with the autopilot and its performance improved
with use. We could only assume that its fault had been the result of six months of
inaction. By February it was running normally. Confidence in the engine also
increased with every trouble-free run that we made in the Southern Grenadines and
on our return trip to Grenada.
It was time to leave the Eastern Caribbean island chain and head west. The off
shore islands of Venezuela beckoned Los Testigos, Margarita, Blanquilla.... We
dei ,, .1' 1,,. 1 ... i ed it on deck, preparing to depart Prickly Bay at dawn.
S... .. ', f i .' l' in Porlamar.
The Case of the Missing Brains:
Sailing St. Vincent
& the Grenadines
by Carol Reed
On deck of the sailing cruise ship Star Clipper it is evening.
Frank and Carol stand at the bow and gaze at the Southern Cross; their old friend,
waiting for them.
The bow rises with the sails' power, propelled forward by the winds of night.
The nearly full but waning moon shines on the strange dark sea, making a creamy
light-path ,,.1.1 .. .. 1, to walk across.
The pair i, I evening. And awakens to some very challenging choices:
Take a shower first? 0, : I 11- ...... tuous breakfast buffet? Or take a dip in the
ship's salty pool, and ii 11 .i I
Ummm wait! Call the purser! Neither Frank nor Carol can locate their brains in
order to make a decision. The grey matter seems to have departed somewhere near
the Grenadines. The brains certainly seem to have jumped ship.
on which to do it
A bottle filled with Chanfleur water rolls lazily to starboard across the carpeted
cabin flo ... i .1.... ihe heeling of the clipper ship. "Oh, look," Frank and Carol
observe ....... 1. toc 1i 11 i I I ... their bunk. But neither one
moves to pick up the bottle. ....I ,,, I I .......... Lt the moment.
Okay, no showers right now. It's too tiresome. First: breakfast, and then forward to
watch Captain Oleg practice the "man overboard" drill and entertain the passengers.
Wait! Could the drill work for brains? "BRAIN OVERBOARD!" Let the young and
attractive crew scramble out to search for two middle-aged brains. Grab some grap
pling hooks. The brains could be floating out there a la Man o' War jellyfish. The
cranial lobes could be floating upright like the pearly-blue, air-filled Man o' War's
sail, with the nerves and medulla trailing below like tentacles.
The day ashore is spent on Union Island, shelling, snorkeling, and feeling tranquil.
Volcanic tree-covered mountains, warm (like the womb) waters, and a sliver of beach
are the entertainment. Three local children frolic on the shore near a shack of wood
and corrugated tin painted with brilliant blues and reds. Their nearby parents are
11. ..... .. rtainment of steel drum music, dancing on deck in bare feet, and
a I .1 I ..I -" does nothing to recapture anyone's brain. At nearly midnight,
the Star Clipper raises her glorious sails and slips towards the deep once again. Can
we make some signs to leave on shore?
"Missing: two brains. Send them back to New Jersey, please."
This is the gift and the mystery of life at sea. One's sense of reality is altered. There
is no phone (well, almost), no TV, no e-mail. It is a fine thing not to know the tabloid
news, politics, or war. There is no media beating the latest scandal to death. The
sense of competition drops away.
The ship's IMPORTANT "news" included our "drink of the day": caipirinha. This is a
Brazilian drink which I had never before heard of nor tasted. So, you see what I mean.
I LOVE the suspension of time and space. I become led more by natural instinct
and by my senses -NOT by what I must do today. The change of reality is a delight:
new people, foods, scents, voices. The :. .11 ho moor their yachts in our cove
may be from England, France, Canada i i
On shore, local people live at a different pace, to a different beat, and with much
less accumulation of the material things we seem to value. Homes are built of bright
or faded wood with tin roofs. Colorful clothes are hung to dry, pulling on lines like
kites in the breeze. -i .. ce the yards with hummingbirds as visitors. Fish can
fly. These latitudes w i between past and present.
Back on board, we watch as the sun illuminates the sea. Island hills rise up into
clouds that haze and halo the tops. Rain showers shift lights and darks across the
hillsides. Bananas or sugar cane grow neatly on the lower slopes, as the fields
spread out like clean sheets. Clear and brilliant daylight streams down through rips
in the clouds, pouring spilt r-1 .n 1 pnhi;; the cloud-shadows away. Spices scent
the air. Fresh nutmegs I i. 11- 1.11 j r on my night stand. My brain, howev
er, is nowhere to be found.
S..1. we'll be returning to the rush of an airport, with the worries about
.. I jobs still waiting.
i I I I ,ir pesky little brains will catch up with us there, nipping around our
feet like hyperactive puppies. It will happen just about as we get into a line and
someone starts complaining.
A trip on a sailing ship is not only a vacation of place, but a vacation of the mind.
It sure was nice while it lasted.
Lo G or. St -r *cc it.
More than a marina.
At Lagoorn Maarna. first-.clas berthing is just part of the
story Naturally we provide full rmarna .ervice~ including
shore po er rer tFFuel. shower and toilet fa ilives.gi rbtge
removal ice.mechnic.,al repair and advice We allo offer
a 19.rocmI hotIl wilh bar and rietaurncn two pools. a
iupermari t. laundry. currency exch angel. inrernet and FaA
bureau plus loc l excursions Add a professional. wlckmrnmg
team.and you've a nrue fichrig 'L-vel In in heavenil setting
TO RESERVE YOUR BERTH. FGCM n-a ri a
CALL 714 458-4300
OR VF CHANNEL --"-
VIRGIN GORDA YACHT HARBOUR
M.annr, Si Full Service Marina Facility
Our facility located in the heart of beautiful Virgin Gorda comprises
a 111-slip marina and a boatyard with 12 acres of dry storage space
offering insurance approved hurricane pits to secure your vessel
during hurricane season.
Onsite amenities and services include a bank/ATM, a supermarket,
chandlery, restaurant, bakery, clothing store, dive shop, phone and
fax facilities, free wireless intemet access, fuel, water and ice,
laundry facilities, and an office of the BVI Tourist Board all in
a pristine and relaxing environment. BVI Customs and immigration
located within convenient walking distance.
Tel: 284 495-5500 Fax: 284 495-5706
284 495-5318 284 495-5685
VHF Ch: 16
Continuedfrom page 19
The wind typically dies the day before a storm, your
engine may pack it in, the storm may veer left of track,
running for two days down wind and down sea in what
might become 30 knots and ten-foot seas may cause
gear or crew failure. All these are factors that make a
long "dash" to "safety" problematical, with an arrival in
a strange harbor in deteriorating conditions at the end
of it all.
Remember, the worst that can happen if your boat is
hauled out or tierl in th- m-n.r---- is your boat is lost.
Theworstthatc .. ,i i .. .' to seaisyou die.
Hurricane Luis approaching Barbuda, September 5th, 1995
Stay Aboard or Go Ashore?
Now, you may not have the option of leaving town.
You have to tuck into a mangrove swamp. Do you stay
aboard your boat, or truss it up like Gulliver on the
beach at Lilliput and seek shelter ashore?
"Brad Glidden's 'Hurricane Survival' articles
(Compass, July, August, and September 2004) were
remarkably comprehensive. I agree with most of what
he said, was reminded of things I'd forgotten, and
learned some new things, too. I trust that the articles
proved useful to many. But where we seriously dis
agree is his insistence that one must go ashore and
that, above 75 knots of wind, no useful work can be
done on deck. I think t'. 1..... ...... 1. 1..1. ....
that. Also, there is work I I .. I ... I 1 11
extreme winds (if any), and things to do below most
ly, just 1--i;r .; --.- on things. There are countless
stories i i i .... their boats because they were
aboard, as well as those who could have, had they
been aboard. And countless stories of those who lost
anyway -it happens. I am entitled to try. May that
forever be so. As for safety, a look around ashore after
Ivan convinces me I was far safer in the mangroves."
"Do all the preparations that are possible to safe
guard your boat, then make the decision whether to
stay on the boat or to go ashore. With the stories of
houses blowing apart in hurricanes, if I had my boat
properly secured I would stick to the boat."
Also to be considered is: just what are your
options ashore? Public shelters, filled with panicked
people, that won't take your dog? Marina buildings
that haven't ever seen a real blow? A friend's under
built condo? We used to joke in the construction
industry in the .....- Why use a screw when a
nail will almost I II since Hurricane Marilyn
in 1995 we through-bolt everything, but there are
still a lot of places on other islands that are built to
the "nail" standard.
Yes indeed, up to a certain point you can do useful
work. Just what that point is in terms of wind speed
or wave action causing the boat to pitch its bow under
and roll its r;unn;; into the sea is highly subjective
75 knots? -, i,- ,' Somewhere in there, depending
on your age, fitness and boat's characteristics.
Remember the force-goes-up-as-the-square rule,
think about the worst sustained conditions you've
seen up till now, then quadruple them.
The problem is, if you :: vrong you may not
have the option of getting 11 I. boat. Your Author
has friends who stayed aboard in Simpson Bay
Lagoon, St. Maarten, for Hurricane Lenny. After 30
hours and three eye passes as the storm meandered
around, their moorings finally let go
and they watched, with no options
to abandon ship, as their boat
ended up on the granite breakwater
1.. i.i I i i11. hadtoleap
S....... I slipped on
the rocks and the boat rolled on top
of her. Only the fact that she had
fallen into a crevice kept her from
Steve Wooster wro 1-.. ..
story in Compass's I ....
about staying aboard during Ivan in
Grenada. "I go forward to adjust the
anchor lines... There is no -
no sound, but suddenly I I
though an express train has hit me
in the back. A wall of wind sweeps in
with such force I am unable to raise
myself from the deck, so lay down,
face up, holding onto the stan
chions. Within seconds, waves,
later estimated to be in excess of 25
feet, come pounding across the
bay.... the decks are now fully awash.... I am trapped
on the bow for an hour, sure that if I try to move I will
be blown or washed over the side.... My worst fear: I
look forward to see a yacht dragging down towards me.
One of the reasons for staying on the boat was to fend
off any drifting boats -a totally impossible task; with
Delphina bucking like an out-of-control bronco, there
is no way I can do anything.... heading directly for me
[is] a 62-foot ketch. With the combined force of the
wind and sea, she is bearing down on r-- Iin 1 -m
pletely on her side. The masts are laying .I... I I ..
the surface and coming towards me emerging out of
the spray like a charging bull."
You're going to fend THAT off, Skipper?
Last but not least:
"If your boat has to stay in the water, do all you can,
and then GET OFF!"
"...the Caribbean is becoming home to a rapidly
growing population of neophyte cruisers who really
don't know what they should do as a storm approach
es, and the best advice to give them is simply: Put the
boat away as best you can, rent a hotel room, and stay
safe ashore. More graphically, put in your mind all the
images of wrecked and ruined boats after a hurricane.
Now imagine an inexperienced family of four inside
each one, and logic will prevail."
Staying or going is the toughest call you will have to
make. We all have adopted this sailing life so we can
be free of outside influences and get to run our own
lives ourselves. Well, here you go. Ignore the barstool
admirals. Decide just how much you can handle,
what's coming at you, what the fall back position is if
it all : to hell, and what's worth more, your boat or
Brad Glidden is the author ofA Cruiser's Guide to
Hurricane Survival, available at bookshops and chan
dleries or from Cruising Guide Publications,
loirrom i/rom loirrom
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"It's an ill wind that blows no good," and the good
blown in from past storms in the region is that
boatyards throughout the Caribbean have learned
effective ways to keep hard-stored boats safe in
Innovative systems include galvanized steel cra
dles, heavy duty sand screws and straps, such as
those used in this photo taken at Nanny Cay
Marina in Tortola. Going the other way -down
rn -rda Yacht Harbour offers storage in dug
i .... pits".
Many experienced sailors also recommend
reducing windage by pulling the mast if possible,
and many boatyards, including Carenantilles in
Martinique and Spice Island Marine in Grenada
(see item on page 6) offer this option. Yards
across the board have improved their "hard
stand" surfaces by ensuring that heavy rain run
off is diverted, and/or by gravelling or paving
them. Extra special services include e-mailing
photos of cradle-stored boats to clients, as is
done by Grenada Marine.
After 50 years of Caribbean cruising experience,
including .i. ..... ialf a dozen hurricanes, Don
Street sa II ... boat is properly secured
ashore... with the hull tied down with straps to
'dead men', secured in a special cradle, or well
chocked with plenty of screw stands properly tied
together, then the chance of your boat surviving a
direct hit by a hurricane is good."
Marine Survey throughout the Caribbean
PURCHASE INSURANCE DAMAGE
Accredited Marine Surveyor
Society of Accredited Marine Surveyors
RYA Ocean Yachtmaster (Commercial)
Accreditation American Boat and Yacht Council
Tel: Grenada (+1 473) 407 4388
ell, we appear to be somewhat settled here on
our own small plot of land in Panama. It is
just about as different from boat living as
boat living is from having a house.
It took us nearly one year to make the transition
from living a "normal" life to having a boat we called
home. Just getting untangled from the land life was
unbelievable: there were all the services -electricity,
water, telephone, cell phone, insurance -and untold
other things that had to be either cancelled or
changed. The paperwork was a real nightmare. When
we told people that we would be living on a boat some-
where in the Atlantic or Caribbean Sea, it just didn't
make sense to them.
Ah, then there was the boat, Mima, to get used
to. It was not all that big. The furniture was all
built in: what was there was what you got. Set
something else down on top of the furniture,
though, and it was likely to move, sometimes gen
tly and sometimes quite fast!
Want to turn on the light and read? How are
you going to get the electricity? Want to make
iced tea? How are you going to get the water?
Want to make a phone call -forget it! Want the
Internet -forget that too! How about those tall,
cold drinks boaters always have? How are you
going to make the ice? Where do you get the soft
drinks or mixer? Will you have clean clothes?
Sure, if you .. .ii... I wash them by hand and
you have tl .1' j the way, did you store
Si ,, .i ,. F -Ihopping, gota car? Nope
i,- I -1i i,,,.i, that you use to get to
land. Then you walk to the store... if there is one!
Well, we adjusted. We adapted. We learned. We
learned that we had to make and store electricity
before we could use it. We learned that we had to
make and store water before we needed it. We learned
to wash clothes by hand and buy supplies from small
stores. When we got to large towns, we learned to
stock the boat with the things we needed now and the
things we knew we would want a month or so down
the line. We learned to live with the ocean, the weath
er and nature in its raw and "close-up" self.
If we did not have something, we learned to live with
out it. We learned to live a very simple life, close to
nature and very close to the sea and its weather. We
learned to read charts and maps, navigate and sail,
just like our grandfathers did. As the years passed, all
of this stuff became second nature to us.
It was a Grand Adventure! If you saw the movie
"Pirates of the Caribbean", we have sailed those
waters, walked the same beaches, visited the same
castles and been on the same docks. We have also
been a lot of places that only sailors ever get to visit,
dived the clear waters, seen tropical fish and coral
only seen in pictures by most. We learned to get by in
French and Spanish and have spent many nights at
,. .11 ..... . .i... -1 no one else spoke English.
S. I .11 11 I I we always intended to read,
studied Spanish, lived in Venezuela and met a lot of
great people there. We ran from hurricanes, ran from
tropical storms, and learned the ways of the sea when
it was calm and when it was horrible. We had almost
everything break, and we fixed it -not always quick
By Tom Lane
ly, but we fixed it. We have written articles for the sail
ing magazines, the local papers and the cruisers' mag
azines. We managed to sail for ..1. rears and
12,000 miles without damaging i I got dam
aged some, but we healed.
And we met people. People from all walks of life
from mechanic to orthopedic surgeon, from counselor
to power company engineer -and we made more
friends than we ever dreamed we would. We all had
something in common: we were trying to survive
and we did. We spent long evenings anchored miles
from any town, .11 .... ..id drinking rum and just
being ourselves, i. ...I our rum with no ice and
swapped sea tales, we learned to be grateful for what
we had and not to miss the things we did not have.
We learned that where a person comes from is not
nearly as important as who he or she is. Some were
rich and some were poor. It just did not matter. We
shared what we had and enjoyed each other and
where we were.
And it changed us. One of the books we depended
on, Bruce Van Sant's Gentlemen's Guide to Passages
South, said that learning another language would
change you. What it did not say was that just being a
nomad, drifting from place to place and meeting and
:,,I i,,,. with the people, would change you just as
:.... i. are now able to be happy with a lot less
than we had in the US. We don't need a new car and
fine clothes; we know that other brands are just as
good as Tide or Del Monte and that nice people speak
all sorts of languages.
It seems that we have now closed the chapter of
our lives where we were sea gypsies. Mima has
been sold to a great couple who are going to take
4 up cruising and we hope they will have as t
time as we did and learn as much as we i. i
hope that it changes them as much as we have
been changed -because it is a good change!
We have moved ashore. We now have a house
just outside of Panama City, Republic of Panama.
We love it. It is a great house for us. It is not a
grand house, but it has all the things we need and
it sure fit our budget. What we did not consider
was that all 11. 11i.... had such problems dis
entangling ... I ... when we moved onto
the boat, we are having to re-establish now that we
are back on land. There are car insurance, tele
phone, cell phone, television, post-office box, elec
tric bills, water bills and so on, and on
All of the things we once took for
granted (and had to learn were not
"granted") are now back. The water
always comes on when we turn on the
E tap the tanks are never empty! The
electricity always comes on when we flip
the switch -we don't have to charge
the batteries. There is Internet all hours
of the day or night, we can run the air
conditioning whenever we want, the
garbage is picked up at the house and
we can just get into the car and go to
the store if we need something!
When the weather turns bad, we don't have to won
der if the anchor will hold or if we will be forced to leave
harbor at 2AM and head for the open sea. The furniture
is not built-in and can be moved. Things placed on a
table just stay there! The cost of homeowners' insur
ance is less than a tenth the cost of boat insurance.
Toilets don't need to be pumped 20 times by hand; just
pull the handle and they flush by themselves.
And the SPACE! Figure that a 50-foot boat which is 14
feet wide and pointed on one end has (maybe) 500
square feet of room, of which 100 square feet is engine
room. That leaves 400 square feet of living space
including bedrooms, bathrooms, kitchen and sitting
area. Now, our terrace alone is 468 square feet. My wife,
Steph, came in the other day, just amazed, to report that
her walk-in closet had as much room as the cabin where
we slept for the past eight years. We really don't know
what to do with all of this space. We just sit and look at
it for the most part and enjoy being in our house.
The que ti-. ;--- : is: Is the Grand Adventure
over? The ...- . The only thing we wanted to
do, and did not get to do in these past years, was to
explore South America. We want to see Tierra del
Fuego, the mountains of Chile, the forests of Brazil
and the hundred other places we have heard of and
never got to visit. We are now situated where we can
travel to South America a lot more easily than from the
States and we plan to explore in the next few years. It
will take a few more months to get our life in order
here, and then we will be off on Chapter Two.
970 90 Hr a L td
FOR YOUR MARINE HARDWARE, AND MORE
Chain & Rope
Anchors & Fenders
Lubricants & Oils
Flares & Life Jackets
Sanding Paper & Discs
Hand & Power Tools
Houseware & Cookware
Y ARIES (21 Mar 20 Apr)
Sail on! Communications clear up and your creative
ideas will finally be appreciated. Hoist these aspects to
good advantage in business dealings.
STAURUS (21 Apr 21 May)
t I .. II I 1-,h I h , I '' L
SGEMINI (22 May 21 Jun)
..' ... crew or cruising buddies.
0 CANCER (22 Jun 23 Jul)
While those around you are casting their composure to
the winds, hold on to your emotional helm.
Q LEO (24 Jul 23 Aug)
This will be a i 1 .. i i .. 'e time for you,
with favorable .... ..I .......... 1. .. creativity and
Tp VIRGO (24 Aug 23 Sep)
This will be 2 ..... i .. the doldrums, but fair
winds pick up I II. .. I I. --nn- 1 t
decks ofprevious months' .
active inspiration coming in September.
^ LIBRA (24 Sep 23 Oct)
You'll be tempted off the rhumb line by a variety of dis
tractions this August. Try to hold a steady course in the
fluky wlt 1.. 1 1. ;.;. currents, and all will be plain
TL SCORPIO (24 Oct 22 Nov)
SSAGITTARIUS (23 Nov 21 Dec)
You'll have fun, fun, fun this month! You may not feel
like working on the boat, but 1. 1 I love will both
reach a high point around the1 ,-
6 CAPRICORN (22 Dec 20 Jan)
Smooth seas and clear skies are the order of the month.
^ AUARIUS (21 Jan 19 Feb)
Creativity, communications, love and business are all in
opposition. i l i .. i.i il 1. .
th e sails, I I I I I I .1 ... I I .
your head and enjoy your dreams.
SPISCES (20 Feb 20 Mar)
This month should be rather boring. Hanging on the
hook in a new place may be the best solution. Perhaps
have a few friends aboard to liven things up.
ACROSS 39) LOAD 14) PIPE
1) FLUSH 40) ARE 17) OAKUM
3) BEAM 41) SPAR 18) CARDS
5) TOP 42) TEAK 19) FIBERGLASS
9) PUMP 43) ASH 20) EYE
10) STEEL 44) KNEES 24) IRON
11) RAILS 45) HMS 26) TOP
13) HE 46) PROW 27) HOUSE
15) CARGO 28) UP
16) WAIST DOWN 30) NAPS
19) FOREDECK 2) UPPER 31) CLEATS
21) QUARTER 3) BELOW 32) HALF
22) SEAMS 4) MAR 34) SWELLS
23) MIDDLE 5) TRI 36) RAKE
25) SHEET 6) POST 37) OR
27) HULL 7) APE 38) DECK
29) TON 8) BEARS 42) TAR
33) POOP 10) STOPPER 43) AS
35) NAILS 12) AFT
36) ROW 13) HELM
Another woman wades waist deep,
into a sea of wonder,
allowing waves of white water
to wash tidal rhythms of wisdom,
known to mermaids and moonbeams
over and over a heart-filled chest,
until waves are as wanted as eurythmic breath,
--ni -ne with gravitational being,
I -. or regretting
into beguiling emptiness.
to be filled, omnipotent and free,
from the very coolest depths
on up to laughter that rings and sings
life's melodies, entwining
seen and unseen,
marrow and mystical spirit
into a perfectly blended being,
ensuring sublime expression
in every bounteous world.
-Rebecca Gensemer Fink
THE CRY OF
The sea is my home;
From country to country
Thats how I roam.
Life is good; the food is free
There is nothing better than the Caribbean Sea!
No need for alarm,
I mean you no harm,
I'm just here for the sun
And a place to raise my young.
So when I rise to the surface
Stop throwing harpoons at my face!
Sometimes you put us on the run,
Chasing us with your harpoon gun.
We are tired and scared of living life on the brink,
So help save us all from becoming extinct.
This is really no fairy tale
Let's work hand in hand to save our whales!
Keithon is a student at the Bequia Seventh Day
Adventist Secondary School
CO~nJgasi Cflhjsi~ilf Cr~-ssWvnl
Subscribe to the
Caribbean Compass On-line!
1) 38 Down laid stem to stern with no breaks
3) 38 Down support
5) 2D +38 Down
9) A 38 Down is handy to move water
10) Some 38 Down 3 Acrosses are made of this
11) These can be stern, hand or toe
13) Pronoun for male crewmember
15) If containerized, this is stowed on 38 Down
16) 38 Down between fore and main masts
19) Area from foremast to bow
21) 38 Down abaft main mast
22) Spaces between 38 Down planks
23) Second 38 Down
25) Sail control line
27) Body of ship
29) 15 Across weight measure
33) 38 Down: mizzenmast to taffrail area
35) 38 Down : spikes with diamond-shaped heads
36) Propel with oars
39) waterline is shown by the Plimsoll Mark
40) On a catamaran, two heads better than one!
41) 38 Down: uppermost one of a naval vessel
42) Durable hardwood for 38 Down
43) breeze: progress made with oars in a calm
44) 38 Down 3 Across reinforcements
45) Her Majesty's Ship (abbr.)
46) Archaic term for bow structure of a ship
2) 38 Down between Main and Shelter
3) Beneath the 38 Down
4) El Caribe (Spanish)
5) A _maran is a multi-27 Across
6) This can be stem or stem
7) 38 Down : a muscular crewman
8) Heavy mats used to scour wooden 38 Acrosses
10) Ringbolt in 38 Down to prevent cable going overboard at sea
12) The 33 Across 38 Down is of the mizzen mast
13) Steering station
14) Hawse : cylinder to pass anchor chain
through 27 Across
17) Rope fibers used for caulking
18) You need a full 38 Down of these
19) Today, a 38 Down is more often made of this than wood
20) Pad_: one fitted to a plate which rivets to
38 Down or elsewhere
24) 'Wooden ships and men'
26) Platform supported by lower mast's trestle-trees
27) Structure on 38 Down with gangway on either side
28) Toward the wind
30) What the off watch often does
31) Notorious toe-stubbers on 38 Down
32) Space between bulkhead of steerage and forepart of
23 Across 38 Down
34) Large ocean waves
36) To fire shells lengthwise of a vessel's 38 Down
38) What a floor is to a building, this is to a vessel
42) Slang for 38 Down hand
43) good t gets
Solution on page 30
Didier and Maria
Sails & Canvas (repairs & fabrication]
located at Carenantilles dockyard
Open Monday to Friday 8- 1 2am 2-6pm
Saturday by appointment
tel/fax: (596] 596 74 88 32
Full Service Station:
-Fuel/Diesel/Gas Laundry Call Station
Grocery Ice Cigarettes Cold Drinks
Breakfast (Coffee, Croissants) Fishing Items
Conveniently located at
Carenantilles Dockyard LE MARIN
Tel +596 74 70 94 Fax +596 7478 08
Mobile +696 29 28 12
Open 7am to 7pm Sundays: 7am to 1pm
Leading Brok in h rench sland,
T11 moat vu speciprial web wsite n i. Caribbean
opw,.g US d European Markets
Benefit frm currency rte
.[ .i .- k.
Iul CRUIS TING *D'TC RlNR
M ermaid Merry' .11 .... .. ,- beautiful coral house on the far side of
the reef, than I .11 i i I friends, especially the glassy sweeper.
(Remember how that shark with the toothache got it into his head to catch
an easy meal?) Well, one day when Merry was swimming about in the lovely clear
water in--., li,; 1, home, she met up with Gem, the son of Merman Marcus. Oh
yes, ii ... ...... ,- which of course
they do, then so do mermen.
The trouble with mermen is that they
choose to live in deep water and so we
never see them. Not only that but they
aren't very sociable. I wouldn't say that
they are unfriendly; its just that they
don't like leaving the comfort of their own
homes where storms never trouble them.
It is always calm and pleasant at the bot-
tom of the sea and many wonderful deep
water creatures come visiting with inter
testing stories to tell.
But Gem was still young .. .. o like
company, especially that c i I mer
maids and Merry was the prettiest of
them all. So, t.i i... i i ,,i i, .I i sis
spear with thi ,. ,.. I i I . .. if
necessary, he made a special effort to find
Merry. Gem wanted to ask her to come to
Mother Mermaid's ball. Mother Mermaid
was Gem's own mother, wife of Merman
Marcus, but they didn't live together because Mother Mermaid had pined for her
sunny, coral reef home. They often spent weekends together however, but that was
as much as either of them could take away from where they felt at home. The ball
was celebrating the wedding anniversary of Gem's parents.
Jerry swam off as fast
as he could
to rouse Mr. Needlefish
out of his bed
"I've been looking for you all over!" greeted Gem. "I want you to come to Mother's
ball with me."
Merry was very happy to accept Gem's invitation because he was SO good looking
with the cutest black curls you ever saw. Gem promised to pick Merry up at her coral
cottage the next day at seven sharp. Deep-water fish with glowing lights along the
sides of their bodies were going to act as escorts. As you can imagine, Merry was in
a panic all the next day trying to decide what to wear. In the end she chose a gold
en sheath sparkling with silver sequins and rainbow beads. A coronet of emeralds
showed off her bright red hair that floated in glossy tendrils down to her slender
waist and matched the deep green of her eyes. A necklace and bracelet of emeralds
and rubies was a trifle overdone, but Merry couldn't resist putting on all her best
finery. She was ready and waiting when
Gem arrived at her door, escorts on either
side ready to light the way.
Gem and Merry swam along holding
hands and neither of them had eyes for
c anything but each other. Gem was all
rigged out in his best tunic of turquoise
silk embroidered with golden sea stars.
A circlet of sapphires held his cute,
black curls away from his smooth,
brown face. No wonder then that Merry
was suddenly pulled up short when the
hem of her golden sheath caught on a
coral prong and ripped with a nasty
"Oh, my dress! It's ruined!" sobbed
Merry. "You'll have to take me home."
But before Gem could protest, one of
the escorts boomed in his big deep voice,
by Lee Kessell "Not a bit of it. Here -Jerry, hurry off
and fetch Mr. Needlefish the tailor and tell
him to bring 1-: 11 thread."
So Jerry swam off as fast as he could to rouse Mr. 11 i. -1 out of his bed. By
the way, Mr. Needlefish the tailor was an oceanic fish with a long, slender body and
a beak so long, thin and sharp that he was the best person in the whole ocean to
mend Merry's dress. There are certainly needlefish who live on the reef, but these
are Houndfish with fatter and shorter beaks making them clumsy sewers so they
wouldn't do at all.
In no time, Mr. Needlefish was at Merry's side. He inspected the tear, grunted a
bit, and then he threaded the fine gold silk through his beak and carefully began
sewing the torn edges together. When the job was done it was impossible to see
where the tear had been. Merry looked at her lovely dress and a big smile lit up her
pretty face and her eyes sparkled with pleasure.
"Oh thank you, thank you, Mr. Needlefish!" Merry curtsied to show just how very
;--.t-fl :1.- was.
o I,,. O1 it, my dear. Now hurry along to the ball, you two, and enjoy yourselves."
It was a ball to remember with everyone dancing, laughing, eating delicate lit
tle morsels of plant food and drinking grape juice squeezed from ripe, luscious
sea grapes. Merman Marcus and Mother Mermaid kissed and hugged each
other and promised to give an even better ball the next year. Gem and Merry
kissed and hugged each other too and when Gem took Merry home that
evening, Gem asked her to be his one and only girlfriend. Yes, it had been a very
The next morning Merry picked up her golden gown from the floor where she had
dropped it, being too sleepy to care. She began to fold it before putting it carefully
away, but then she thought of the awful tear in the hem and how Mr. Needlefish the
tailor had sewn it together again. Was it really impossible to see the mend? Yes, try
as hard as she could, Merry could not find where the edges had been brought togeth
er. Well done, Mr. Needlefish!
Conch grow their own shells. As the conch gets bigger, so does the shell. A baby
conch has a white shell which becomes brown as the conch grows older. After
if f *- about three years, the sh-.11 i. The lip becomes broader and thicker as
a y band has I ...i.i i..I I I colour inside, rubbed shiny by the move
S/.. I conch's body.
Most countries have fishery regulations to prevent over-fishing of conch. Only
S/ mature o .. i .. 11. ... .. inches and with flared lips can be taken. In the
wild, only -... , .. I conch eggs and babies will grow to adulthood as
predators such as crabs, lobsters, fish and octopus like them for dinner! The
conch farm keeps the eggs and babies in special trays and then in fenced ponds
so that a large percentage of them survive. The adult conch can then be harvest-
i ] O LLX 'S DI E E P JE T E T S ed and the meat sold locally or export 1 Tli --1. f,'-: 1 i. t- I rest one
D L Y million conch per year a great help .1 i .1 1i i I i. Ii ..... I creature.
by Elaine Ollivierre WORD PUZZLE
The following words from the passage are represented in code but not neces
Last month, we looked at the pros and cons of fish farming. Now let's look at sarily in the order given. Find which code symbol represents each letter then find
one species which is being successfully farmed in this region, the special word.
In Providenciales, Turks and Caicos Islands, you will find the world's only commer
cial conch farm. Meat from the queen conch (Strombus gigas) has been eaten in the
Caribbean region for many hundreds of years but conch is now on the list of commer-
cially endangered species because of over-fishing. Conch World Provo hopes that the ALGAE 0 9 0 I
production .. I ... I i ... I i ..... I conch will enable wild conch stocks to recover. CONCH -*A f
There are .1 1.11 ..1i of conch but the queen conch is th- 1 .- t
The conch farm has two 'tame' conch which emerge from their shells 1' Il I 111 1 CRAB 1 -*
out of the water so that visitors can see the difference between the male (Jerry) OCEAIN i + J
and the female (Sally). The male has a long 'arm' which he can :t i.- i -
I on the female and release sperm for reproduction to take place .. SHELL 0 0 4 9
es up to half a million fertilized eggs in one spawning. WHITE o 0 -
SA conch egg is very tiny and hatches into a baby conch which looks nothing like
the adult conch we are familiar with. The baby is called a veliger and drifts in the
sea for about three weeks. Then it sinks to the bottom and metamorphosis takes
Space This means that it -. .n- shape and begins to grow its shell. The baby Sp6c.Il wod: 0 4. # +- u I
conch burrows into the -... I ibout a year, all the while feeding and getting
bigger. Then it comes out and grazes on seagrass and algae. Answer on page 39
JB~8 Ife I E
by Bev Bate
We had left our boat on a mooring ball in Port Antonio, Jamaica, for five weeks
while we returned to Canada.
Our flight from Vancouver arrived in Kingston
around 4:00PM and by the time we made a report
and .rrn;.- 1 f-r delivery of our luggage that
missed IIh, Ii.J. it was closing in on 5:00.
We planned to take a taxi to Halfway Tree,
where we had successfully caught local buses to
Port Antonio in the past, but always earlier in the
day. This time our taxi driver convinced us not to
go to Halfway Tree because of its reputation as a
hot-spot for transient thieves who frequent the
area seeking out innocent passengers waiting for
buses in the closing hours of the day.
The taxi driver insisted we go where one bus orig
inated its trip to Port Antonio. Although it would
take the longer east coast route around the island
(about 65 miles instead of 43), he assured us it was
a good, safe bus and he could guarantee us a seat
We journeyed through back streets with the
driver to a location where transport trucks were
lined along the street in various states of repair. A
dilapidated-looking bus was set to pull out onto
the street where the taxi dropped us off. It looked
like a horror bus from a Central American moun
tain village. The driver assured us his bus was
safe and that he would be driving us all the way
to Port Antonio, but it would be a very long ride.
Bill looked around the bus, checking the tires, the
front end and the axles. They appeared to be solid
and the tires had good tread. This gave assurance
that the drive train was safe and only the body of
the bus was dilapidated.
Here among transport trucks on the street with
over one hour to wait until departure, I realized I
would have to make a "pit stop". Sheepishly I
approached the bus driver asking if there was a
toilet I could use. The driver reluctantly said that
there was, but it would be most unsavory. I
responded that I was a boat person, and if it
meant going behind a bush, that was okay. He
worked up a bit of a smile and directed me to the
facility used by the mechanics. It was cleaner
than many service station restrooms I'd encountered.
It was over an hour later when the bus finally pulled out, traveled to a small mar-
ket and backed in for another lengthy wait right beside the local garbage pile. The
stench of garbage and urine was very unpleasant. Several people appeared out of the
dark and we heard the noise of someone climbing on the roof of the bus. Bill checked
and found people approaching the bus with large boxes and bags of groceries, some
of which were being passed up to a man on the roof who was placing them on a roof
rack. After about an hour of loading, the roof rack was filled to capacity, as was the
interior of the bus, with large bags of produce, m- t -i- I fi.irii..:1-:. Every time
another person boarded the bus, bags and boxes .-1 .11i ..li II waywhile
the person maneuvered their way to a seat. They were all local people, with bright
smiles and warm greetings, and unusually patient although obviously very tired. Bill
went to the front and asked if it would be okay to take a photo. Suddenly, the faces
looked up wearily with some .. 1 1... 1.1 others shook their heads. Consequently
a number of people ducked ..i I -. I ,I most smiled into the camera.
Finally the bus lurched into the night. It was obvious the driver knew every curve
and bump. The bus would be moving quickly along the road and suddenly slow to a
crawl over a series of pot holes. Most of the passengers managed to drop off to sleep
as the noisy bus lumbered along the rough, often washboard, roads.
As the bus traveled through many villages on this S1tllr- .--nin? 1--l c1r
ried up and down the dusty streets, while loud music i i. ...
sidewalk bars scattered along the way. There was obviously night life happening but
it was hard to pick out through the dimly lit conditions. When the bus stopped, peo
ple would get off and someone would climb onto the roof, unloading goods. The bus
was obviously a lifeline for these rural communities and they knew when and where
to expect its arrival. The people getting off the bus smiled and gave affectionate
words to the driver and little jokes passed back and forth. We had trouble decipher
ing much of what was said as Jamaican patois was spoken by everyone. Sometimes
we could catch the odd word and speculate on the gist of the conversation.
We felt no threat for our safety on the bus or by the people but rather felt quite
comfortable and at home, thoroughly enjoying this unique experience. It seemed the
illed with rural villagers and large bags of produce, meats and furnishings,
the bus from Kingston to Port Antonio traveled forever' through the night
bus traveled forever through th .... 1. ... 1 .... 1 ....... 1 11:30PM it pulled into
a mountain village and began .. i.. 11 ... i ..I I i. 'argo. People could be
seen in the dim light loading up parcels and trekking up a steep road. The driver told
us on some of his trips the people pack their goods home until 4:00AM. While reflect
ing on the tired faces trekking up the hill, we suddenly felt lonely as we were now
the only passengers, save one, left on the bus. We also felt sadness for the passen
gers who had to pack their goods all the way up the hill. It was obvious their night
was far from over.
Our night was nearly over and at 12:30AM we arrived in Port Antonio. The smiling
driver dropped us off right at the marina gate.
Souvenirs, Craft,Tee Shirts, Pareos,
Bathing suits, Furniture and more...
Tel: (784) 458 8316
Seatood specialties, Live lobsters (Sept to
Apr), Bar, Pizzeria, Pool, Table Games
and its Giant Aquarium
Res: VHF 16, Tel: (784) 458 8311
Water Station, Dockage, Watertaxi, Ice
(Blocks & Cubes), Bakery (French bread)
Res: VHF 16, Tel: (784) 458 8878
Day Charter, Mayreau,Tobago Cays,
Palm Island, Mopion
Res: VHF 16, Tel: (784) 458 8878
It was early morning in Grenada. The
sun was just gilding the hilltops that
fringed the harbor 1--'in- th 1-ngoon i +
still in shadow. Heat 1: 11 I the
tropical mist drifting over the dark still
waters as the red orb rose. Fishermen began
to drift in from their nightly excursions, and
I studied them from the bow of Scud, our 44-
foot catamaran, --hil tr'in- t- summon a
lightening bolt of .. .. i ...... r mug of caf ,,
feine. Today, we were trekking to the Seven
Sisters Waterfalls. All of us were going: my .. 1
husband Peter and I; our teen sons, Adam
and Warren; our friends on Ocelot, Jon and by Tina Dreffin
Sue, and their teen kids Chris and Amanda;
and other teens in the harbor. ,
Last night during our regular d snin. dis
cussions with Jon and Sue, itwa I i i" that we'd all jump from the top of the falls
-a tall order for this 50-year-old cruising broad. Could I do it? Of course. Should I do
it? Of course NOT. But -would I do it? That was the puzzling question nagging me
now, for adventure stuck to me like two sides of Velcro. Before plugging myself into the
morning routine to get us all off the boat in time to make the falls before the heat of
the day melted us to puddles of oily butter from the liters of sun lotion we'd apply, I
decided. If Sue did it, then I would. She's the more sagacious of us two.
"Catch the first morning jitney that heads into the Grand Etang forest reserve,
said the woman at the local farmer's market, whose advice I'd sought. We heard it
before we saw it: Thunderous reggae music blasted from around the bend, riding the
morning breeze. A beat-up van rounded the corner, painted in the Rasta colors of
red, yellow and green. School children rushed the roadsides to escape its path of
impending fury. I stepped back to merge with the stately palm behind me.
"Rastaman" announced itself in scarlet letters down the sides, and it continued bar-
reling forward, vibrating to the reggae beat, wheels pulsing. My husband Peter
motioned for a pick-up, and it skidded to a stop, practically doing a wheelie.
"Crikey!" I i1 ...i.i .-e we .... this thing?" I hissed to Peter.
With less ,I. i ,, than I I we boarded the already packed bus, passing '
coins to the "conductor" a young boy w .i. -. 1 -1-1- 1bble hat of multi-colored 'i
wool in the colors of the Ethiopian flag. . i .... i girth squeezed closer to
make room, half seats were yanked down, and young children collected onto laps.
Numerous limbs hung suspended from open windows. In the hot air, I fought to
catch my breath, gazing around at this death-trap, and death seemed probable; F
imminent, in fact. Peter looked apprehensive -a bad sign, as he's definitely the
more composed of us two. But the teens were in high euphoria over the thrill of the '.lM
ride and, more likely, the joy of the raucous tune still detonating from the oversized My eyes followed Tom's elongated frme, as he launched into the air,
speakers in front and back. and then down and down...'
Continued on next page
Can Take It
StarPac Courier and Cargo
7 i I I I i
J. ii II ,, i II J.llit IrI I R l.*l,11 .
IT B G ',It 'h& \ M I I,.1 lI t. l|I Il I -
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Continuedfrom previous page
Our driver drove like a madman, bent on speed. Bodies slid to the right, then left,
and faces mashed against windows when rounding a corner. I knew what my seat
neighbor had for dinner the previous night by the aroma wafting from his breath.
Body odor seeped from the mass of humanity,
gathering into a thick cloud overhead. More bodies
boarded. I counted 22 in a van that should safely
seat 11. I shut my eyes and pulled down my sun- ( fo"' "r
glasses, willing myself to ease into the rhythm of
the adventure. "Part of the experience is getting I
there," I said to myself over and over.
An hour later, we entered the dark rainforest of
S.. i i i and were the last to
i, 1 i. ... .. ..i I thanked the blessed
"whoevers and whatever" for our safe arrival, as we
spilled out onto the pavement, rubbing sore limbs
and crunched elbows. In a flash, we were lifted into
uproarious laughter: We had survived!
The teens charged up the road and disappeared
into the rainforest, while we adults bantered about
our ride from hell. Though nearly late morning, it
was cool under the canopy of vines along the dirt
trail that led to the Seven Sisters Waterfalls.
Cocoa, nutmeg and banana trees bordered the
skinny trail. Scarlet birds of paradise peeked from .. '
behind a curtain of elephant ears that grew along-
side the riverbed. Hills formed a backdrop to the -...
forest that now ran in a narrow belt along the river-,
bank. Tree trunks were daubed with multi-colored
lichens: sulphurous yellows, burnt oranges, blues
and greens. We slipped and slopped along the
muddy trail, following the rich sound of the teens'
giggles in front. *
Forty-five minutes later, a gallery of trees opened s.- "
to reveal a tumbling cascade that dropped into an .
; -.1 1-;-n pool, beckoning u- I ....i i pes
i i ... I. "monkey ropes," i . i i ... the
dense greens of the undergrowth, reaching out to . ,'
kiss cascading waters. The kids disappeared into -
it, racing one another to the top of the falls, first -. ,
navigating across vast chasms of raging waters of
smaller cascades. At the top, there is no honorable
return -you either jump or camp out, immersed
in your own jittery nerves, until finally someone pushes you over the edge.
The falls stretch beyond tree height, releasing a roar loud ... o blanket
words. At the summit, the kids appeared tiny against the backdi I i 11. hills.
I looked at Peter -he shook his head a big no! Sue? "You're crazy, girl!" she said.
Whether I do it or don't was shoved back into the genie bottle, and we quickly peeled
off our sweaty clothes to dive into the pool from its rim. The coolness of the clear
green waters swept us away. Peter challenged me in a race to the bottom fury of the
falls, where mist was heavy with water droplets, so thick I couldn't inhale without
gagging water. Current tugged at my suit, and I thought my skin might peel off.
Behind the falls, we kissed.
S. -i t, we collapsed onto sun-baked rocks to munch on our picnic, idling
th I ... .. away, while waiting for the kids' big jump. Emergency supplies were
hidden in the bottom of my bag, just in case, but
I'd left behind the butterfly strips -you just never
know. (On our last waterfall trek, Warren had cut
S his foot on a tree stump, leaving a trail of blood.)
--;- '', .... iThe kids had made the summit. Screams drew
-o-- ur eyes to the undergrowth next to the falls at the
\ -,, ,- bottom, and a young girl emerged in tears. She'd
A i ,, frozen with fear at the top, and her father had
guided her back down. My nerves grew taut, and
S my legs felt weak, considering our sons' risk.
S." Suddenly, I heard Sue gasp and looked up into
1' i the clouds. My words hung limp in my throat, and
Si' ', I grasped her arm: A body was : .i'... -..-.pended
Sin air, a scream running before I. I ....1 shape.
S Her body fell into the dark waters, where a confetti
of boulders bordered the pool below. When her
", ,, head surfaced, I breathed a sigh of relief. The kids
/ applauded from the top, yelling "whoop, whoop,"
and then Tom from Toucana walked up to stand
, sentinel at the narrow edge. His arms stretched
S- _, overhead, and he slowly bent forward at the waist.
Surely no! Please no! I willed him not to: Just
.""'". jump -please!
Arms pulled him forward and he leaned forward
over the falls, tumbling into the curve of his body
with feet extended behind, stretched out in beau
S I tiful form -a perfect swan dive. A 10! Tears
S welled in my eyes, considering his risk. "I am not
-in tD be the one to tell his mother," I said to our
S, .... None of us had brought a mobile phone
Swe didn't even own one! No public phones nearby,
either. Nothing but a crazy jitney to flag down for
SI any 911s.
S My eyes followed Tom's elongated frame, as he
i launched into the air, and then down and down. A
splash and his head popped up from the surface.
He was triumphant; the kid crowd atop the falls
went wild. I pressed my hands to my face and
bowed my head: Kids! One after the other they
tumbled forward, dropping into the pool below. Our sons jumped last, helping oth
ers go first, encouraging them with "whoop, whoop".
As we stood on the pavement waving down another outrageous, gleeful Rasta driv
er, I realized I had become undone -euphoria had untwined my taut violin strings;
we had survived another riotous day in the paradise of Spice Island. Once onboard, I
donned my sunglasses, kept my eyes open, and sang along with our friends, "No
woman, no cry", to the beat of Bob Marley. As we rounded the bend, a red orb plunged
into the sea, to be resurrected again with the next dawn -along with a happier me.
Looking down from high on the aerial tram it was
hard to believe I was looking at the canopies of 20
foot-tall tree ferns, part of the understory far below.
They were as symmetrical as snow flakes but verdant
and alive. The whole forest breathed out rich vapors
and sensuous earthy smells. Desire said she felt fabu
lously invigorated by "all the oxygen in the air."
Si. .. i. or the simple quiet majesty
i i 1 I [ intoxicating.
Dominica is perhaps the last true jewel in the
Eastern Caribbean. The island has very few beaches
and those have black volcanic sand rather than shim
mering aqua shores. The beach and waters seem dark
and ....... .,. not even hinting at the wonderful clar
ity ol II. i and the treasures of brilliantly colored
soft coral and sponges not far beneath the surface. The
sparse and dark beaches have been a blessing of sorts
as the big money resorts have shown no interest in
building high-rise hotels and waterfront tourist zones
or lengthening the runway to bring in 747s. This has
given the government time to plan for a growth that is
all about protecting and managing the great natural
by Jack Foard
even hotter. He had not an ounce of fat on his body
and his hips hardly held up what appeared to be noth
ing but boxer shorts. Winston winked and said, "His
problem is dat he is da rum taster, too!"
Our host led us to the office and proudly set out
examples of the various types of rum they bottled.
There was the cheap white rum, cured for at least sev
riches of this unique island. Dominica is unspoiled, the
way we dream a lush Caribbean island should be.
Our friends Chris and Yani on Magus invited us,
along with Big John Cooper from Durban Dancer, to
join them on a tour of the island. We hired a local
guide named Winston who knew the island and its
history and loved to share his island's story. We spent
the day with Winston in his shiny red van called "Bling
Bling", and what a wondrous day it was.
The first stop of the morning was at a small rum dis
tillery, surrounded by its own fields of sugar cane. We
saw the old waterwheel-driven cane crusher and the
giant vats of brewing rum and the steam-driven con
densers that pull the devilish rum from the fermented
ii i,. ..... Black m a.. . i ii, i
i i , i,. opened i i i 11
was tossing in large rounds of logs to stoke the fire
eral weeks, that tasted like raw firewater but cost only
$3 per bottle. The most expensive rum was a dark
aged rum for about $12. We sampled little sips of all
of it and headed back to the van with our "souvenir"
As we headed along the road precariously perched
on the cliffs over the ocean we could see there was a
cruise ship coming in to the town of Roseau, and on
this day that was a good thing. The aerial tram in the
rainforest is only open on days the cruise ships come.
Winston's plan was a good one: to get us to the rain
forest before the busloads from the ship started to
We were the first customers of the day and shared
our open tram with just two other people. Our guide,
Rosa, gave us a wonderful narrated tour of the under
story on the way up to the top of the mountain. She
FULL SERVICE BOATYARD
t a O J
owe __g U s 110:11111 *S n bat g
leffi.v4-" O oowrkn
pointed out various trees, flowers and birds and told
us stories about the aphrodisiac properties of some of
the plants. But her accent was so thick and she had
to work so extremely hard at e-n-u-n-c-i-a-t-i-o-n that
the punch lines somehow lost their punch, though she
was very entertaining and informative.
On the way up we crossed high above a deep gorge
and could see a suspension foot bridge that crossed
the chasm below. Rosa said, "When we get to the top,
those of you who wish to may exit the tram and hike
down where we will cross tl1 1-i 1 on foot and pro
ceed to the tram station, i
Riding on this tram was i-ii.-n. my comfort level,
as I have a dread and fear I i. 1.- I was just about
praying that no one would want to cross that skinny
little bridge swaying high above that steep rocky gorge.
My pulse jumped ten beats when everyone else agreed
that it would be great fun. What was I going to do?
When the tram stopped to let the group out, I found
: long thinking that if it was too much
: i I could always walk back up and
catch the tram down. As we approached the bridge I
could appreciate how sturdy and well made it was. but
the gorge looked ever deeper and more menacing with
each step closer. I had already confessed my fear, so
all eyes 1 ...... 1 :k to see how I did as one by
one, Des ... -I ... .. .. I stepped fearlessly onto the
swaying bridge, something I could not understand.
The sides of the gorge dropped away quickly and it did
not take long before small waves of panic began to flow
through me. With each step farther out and over the
abyss my legs got weaker. I truly wanted to turn around
and run back but I made myself take one more step and
one more step and one more step. I was dismayed that
all those steps seemed to hardly help the situation, as
the gorge just keep getting deeper and deeper. I didn't
quite realize it, but as the gorge got deeper I bent my
knees more and more to get lower and lower. Somehow
that made me feel less likely to fall over the side.
After we had clearly passed the point of no return I
got a nice ovation and the words of -;-;;-r''. r-
never stopped, but I really was scare I - I ,
we finally reached the safety of the other side my legs
were like rubber from walking so far on severely bent
and tense knees. But I did it!
I was thrilled to get back on the tram and glide
silently over the top of the rainforest canopy. We saw
that many of the tall trees were blooming on their sun
exposed tops and the blossoms were alive with insects
and birds. The volcanic mountains that surrounded
us made it all seem wonderfully prehistoric and wild.
It was a wonderful trip. My knees were weak but my
smile was strong.
Jack Foard is cruising the Caribbean aboard the
Admiral 38 catamaran Famous Potatoes. Visit his web
site at web.mac.com/famouspotatoes2.
UNIQUE IN DOMINICA
/ SITUATED IN
THE CITY OF ROSEAU
DOJE I Capitainene Tel +7672752851
cNT VHF 16 Working CH 19
www dominicamannecenter com
Fuel (Marine Diesel) / Water at the dock
Nearby laundry service
Ice & Provisioning (Grocery store)
Clean restrooms and showers
Telephone & internet WIFI connection
Yacht chandlery agents of Budget Marine
& soon Mercury Marine
Light boat repair and cleaning
Activity desk (Tours, diving and water sport activities)
Visa / Master Card accepted
Cruising on roots! Seems every island market we
visit has one or two "new to me" root vegetables. We
found a hairy odd-shaped one in Carriacou called
"eddo". Our local friend Rudy says a good broth can
not be prepared without them.
The flesh is usually white, but it can also be yellow,
pink or orange. The taste is similar to an Irish potato,
but with a pleasant nutty flavor. Raw eddoes should
never be eaten as all varieties contain calcium oxalate
crystals. These crystals can cause you considerable
discomfort, but disappear during cooking. If you are
new to eddoes, it might be wise to wear gloves when
peeling as they can irritate the skin.
Eddoes (Colocasia esculenta var. antiquorunm are a
very old food; they have been cultivated longer than
wheat. First grown in Southeast Asia, eddo was first
recorded by the Chinese about the time of Christ.
Eddoes were grown around the Mediterranean long
before the potato. Known as "taro root" in Hawaii,
eddoes are the main i;nr-I -i-nt -f the Hawaiian dish
poi, which is made : ... -I ........ or boiling them
before mashing them into a paste.
Eddoes provide a good dietary fiber at 110 calories
per adult serving with no cholesterol, but two grams
of protein. The starch molecules in eddoes are among
the smallest in the plant world and make them easy
Eddoes can be fried, baked, roasted, boiled or
steamed. Eddoes absorb large quantities of liquid
while cooking adding bulk and flavor. Casseroles,
soups and stews benefit from these roots.
Select tubers that are firm and hairy, with no wrin
kling. Purchase the really small smooth bulbs that are
tiny attachments to the head root. We learned the
"hard" way that some eddoes won't become soft and
creamy when boiled, but remain hard. This comes
from too much water content. Peeling one will show
water or palatable dryness at the center to a trained
eddo eye; ask to have this done at the market stall
Store the roots for up to one week in a cool and dry
location, making sure that the roots do not dry out.
Eddo is a perennial crop grown throughout the trop
ics. Like dasheen (which I wrote about in the June
2007 issue), eddoes will grow almost anywhere.
Clusters of smaller brown hairy roots surround the
central "head" eddo root, and it is these smaller roots
which are harvested. Eddoes flourish easily in moist
soil and left alone will naturally multiply. In fact, in
parts of the United States eddoes are considered a
pest plant. The only problem with planting eddoes is
using them all!
Eddo Garlic Pie
1 pound eddoes, peeled and boiled
2 medium onions, chopped
6 cloves fresh garlic, minced
1/4 Cup flour
Salt and spice to taste
3 Tablespoons butter or -nr ;-
1/4 Cup grated Parmesa. I. i, I i
1/4 Cup bread crumbs
Mash eddoes. Mix mashed eddoes with onions, gar
lic, flour, salt, spices and milk. Place in a greased bak
ing dish or pie pan. Top with butter slices and cheese.
Bake for 45 minutes at 375F. Remove and cover
with bread crumbs. Return to oven for 10 minutes.
Sliced mushrooms, shredded carrots, or other veg
tables may be added. Eddo pie gets firm as it cools.
Cream of Eddo Soup
2 Tablespoons butter
1 medium onion, chopped
2 cloves garlic minced
1/4 Cup chopped celery
2 pounds eddoes, peeled and diced
4 Cups chicken broth
1 bunch chadon bene, chopped
Salt and spices to taste
Melt butter in a large pot on low heat. Stir in onion,
garlic, and celery. Add eddoes. Cover and cook for 15
minutes. Add chicken broth and boil until eddoes are
soft. Add chadon bene, salt and spices to taste. Serve
it as it is, or put soup into a blender and puree.
2 pounds eddoes
Salt and spice to taste
Oil for deep frying (three to four Cups)
Peel and slice eddoes into thin strips (about 1/8 inch
thick), Place strips in ice water for half an hour then
towel dry. Drop into heated oil and fry until golden
brown. Turn with a wire skimmer. Drain on newspaper
or paper towels. Sprinkle with salt and seasonings.
1 pound eddoes, peeled and grated
2 Tablespoons flour
2 chadon bene leaves, chopped fine
1 medium onion, chopped
1 medium sweet pepper, chopped
3 Tablespoons butter
Salt and seasoning to taste.
Blend grated eddoes with flour and chadon bene,
--- -I *
'Cruising on roots! We found a hairy odd shaped one
in Carriacou called "eddo"'
and season to taste. Cook onion and pepper in butter
until brown. Drop eddo mixture by large spoonfuls
into the hot skillet on top of the onions and peppers.
Cook until golden brown. Cakes should be about three
inches in diameter and less than one inch thick.
Carefully turn with a spatula.
For the Gardeners
First locate some eddoes to plant. For a nice-sized
row you need a five-gallon bucket of starter eddoes.
Fork the row about 12 inches deep and 12 inches
wide. Pull dirt up so the row is about eight inches
high. Plant the starter eddoes so the green stem points
upward. Space the roots about six to nine inches
Keep eddoes watered and they should sprout new
stems in two weeks. For a small vegetable plot, or even
a flower garden, eddoes make a nice border, but ini
tially will take daily watering. A soaker hose is a use
ful tool to get the eddoes growing. Eddoes grow up, not
down as most roots, so dirt must be carefully pulled
around the protruding roots. This molding will cause
the eddoes to start more of the small clusters. Once a
month, fertilize with diamonium sulfate and phospho
Eddoes must be harvested in the dry season when
the leaves yellow, wilt and disappear. This is usually a
five to six-month cycle -lA i--l.;: on the occurrence
of rain. Use a fork and *. III pry the clusters of
roots from the soil. Then wash and store in the sun to
dry. Once dry, store in a cool dry place.
SERVING AT SEA BY SHIRLEY HALL
RESTAURANT & BAR
IN GRENADA FOR FUN AND FINE FOOD
Monday: Grenada Buffet & Crab Races
Wednesday: Steel Band Music
Friday: BBQ Dinner & Extempo Calypsonian
Open Daily 6:00AM 10:30PM
Located at The Flamboyant Hotel
Information & Reservation: (473) 444-4247
The home of Grenada's Longest Happy Hour!!
4PM-7PM & 11PM-midnight (50% off all drinks)
OPEN until 3AM Daily
Cocktails *** Relaxation *** Parties ***
Pool *** Sports TV ***
Located directly on the beach at The Flamboyant Hotel
Tel: (473) 444-4247
PORTHOLE RESTAURANT & BAR
& Shoreline Mini-Market
We serve breakfast,
lunch and dinner
Phone (784) 458-3458
A friendly atmosphere where you can sit and meet people.
Admiralty Bay, Bequia
Noelina & Lennox Taylor welcome you!
Gourmet Ice Cream
f' Fresh Fruit Sorbets
S' Qts. & Half Gal. Tubs
Tel: (784) 458 3041
New Location at Gingerbread Cafe
In addition to our famous pizza we offer
seasonal specialties and fresh baked goods.
Open from 11:00am to 10:00pm.
Closed on Mondays
Situated in Admiralty Bay, Bequia between
the Frangipani and Plantation House.
For Reservations: VHF Ch68 or Tl: (784) 458 3474
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Ahoy, Compass Readers! When in Puerto La Cruz, Venezuela, pick up your
free monthly copy of the Caribbean Compass at any of these locations (advertis
ers in this issue appear in bold):
RODNEY BAY AREA MARIGOT BAY AREA
Island Water World The Shack
Johnson Hardware Villa Zandoli
Scuttlebutt's Restaurant Discovery at Marigot Bay
DSL Yacht Charters JJ's Paradise Resort
Razmataz Restaurant Oasis Marigot
Regis Electronics Marigot Beach Club
The Sail Loft Moorings in Marigot
NBC Bank Cocokreole Hotel
The Bread Basket
Ben's Chartering SOUFRIERE AREA
Sea Spray SMMA office
Rodney Bay Marina Boatyard Office
The Boatyard Pub
St. Lucia Yacht Club
Read in Next Month's Compass:
Traditional Boats Race Around Guadeloupe
Being Boatless in Paradise
Exploring Jamaica from Port Antonio
a la Mer
I'm Luke, Chef de Cuisine and new manager of Whisper Cove Marina in Clarke's
Court Bay on the south coast of Grenada.
It's with great pleasure that I offer you this recipe from my French/English cook
book, written especially for people living on boats.
I hope you enjoy!
-LS R-arT's A US&
Barracuda in Cider
1/2 litre (2 Cups) apple cider* or white wine
2 Tablespoons olive oil
4 slices of barracuda or other white fish**
2 Tablespoons flour
200 grams (about half a pound) tomatoes, chopped
Salt and pepper
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
Parsley, finely chopped
Preparation: 10 minutes
Cooking time: 30 minutes
Peel and slice potatoes and cook 10 minutes in boiling cider. Remove, reserving cider.
Slice onions finely and simmer in olive oil until translucent. Remove.
Coat fish with flour, and brown both sides on high heat in the oil in which onions
In an oven dish, arrange the sliced potatoes and onions, then the fish, then the
chopped tomatoes, then the reserved cider.
Season to taste with salt and pepper.
Cook in hot 220C/425F oven for 20 minutes.
Three minutes before serving, sprinkle with garlic and parsley.
This is the European or British cider with alcoholic content, rather than the
American (i.e. non-alcoholic) apple cider or sweet cider.
** In areas where ciguater (fish poisoning") exists, such as the Virgin Islands and
northern Leewards, substitute dorado or similar whitefish for the barracuda.
St. Lucian Seafood Stars on TV Special
A visit to the weekly fish
fest at Arise La Raye, a pic
turesque anchorage and
fishing .ii.. on the west
coast ol Lt. Lucia, was a
highlight of an hour long
television special which
aired on Saturday, July
14th at 9:00PM (EST). The
Food Network's Emmy win
ning Paula Deen visited
Fond Doux Cocoa
Plantation and Castries
Market with local chef
Robby Skeete, and show
cased examples of the
island's fare, ,, i, i,,,
local produce, 1.-1' .... I banana ketchup.
Forbes magazine listed Deen on their "100 Most Powerful Celebrities in 2007" list
and last year the Wall Street Journal said her show, "Cooking with Paula Deen",
was the highest rated cooking show.
This special will be shown again on the Food Network throughout the year, but
you don't have to wait. Anse la Raye holds its fish fest every Friday night, and it's
a good overnight anchorage except in times of northerly swells.
Great news for Compass readers -on-line subscriptions to
Caribbean Compass are now available!
When you're not in the Caribbean, with an on-line subscription you'll
be able to read each complete monthly issue -every page, with all
articles, photos and advertisements including the classified -at
home, at work (we assume marine-related research is approved!) or
while traveling. On-line subscribers will enjoy the complete Compass
promptly every month while "back home" -without anxiously waiting
for the postman to arrive! The entire on-line issue is downloadable and
each individual page is printable, for those articles you want to file or
share with friends and family.
Check it out! Tell your friends! For full details on getting your on-line
subscription to Compass, visit our website:
Please note that apparently the Caribbean Maritime
Mobile Net (George) has moved to 7250.0, not the
7241.0 listed in the June 2007 Compass. I don't know
when or why they changed, but we found out only
when we no longer heard it on 7241.0.
S/V Alcheringa H
Dear Caribbean Compass,
I read with interest Guy Matthews' article "Yacht
Insurance, Past, Present and Future" in the June
2007 issue of Compass.
Alas, Mr. Matthews suffers from one of the same
complaints he makes against surveyors -lack of pre
cision [and] lack of data to support his claim.
In particular, he boldly proclaims "brave" yacht
insurers hel -i ..1......... i i ir- -"1 -ht irinr
a tim e of i i .. ... i -
Alas, there is not one number, not one statistic, noth
ing in his article to back up i ..- .... i ..... i for
one doubt it is even true. I, I' ... ... 1 -. .. the
1, charged by the insurers.
I.I .i is probably true that there are many more
recreational and personal sailing and motor vessels
out in the world today, is it really true that the per
centage of claims is greater than in the past? Is it real
ly true that the cost to insurers is greater than ever
before compared with the amount they take in? If it is,
it would be most kind of Mr. Matthews to give us the
data. Since he is in the yacht-insurance business,
surely he has this information at his :,',. 1. -
Mr. Matthews also claims that the i I. .- been a
blessing "to salvors, surveyors and boatyards due to
numerous gr .... I,,. .... I . I i I
ward events c ii I i .. h i
lack basic sea sense". While this may be a small part
of the story, I'd bet that the GPS has done more in
avoiding such situations than the paper charts of old.
Proof of that may lie in the history of shipwreck after
shipwreck across the Caribbean in days of yore. What
skipper in the 18th century and up to GPS times
wouldn't have given an arm and a leg for a GPS dur
ing storms where star sightings could not be had,
where in: ...1. .lher even a good star sight could
be a mile 1I " and where dead reckoning was
close to just that.
Sure the GPS can be abused. Sure the GPS has led
to more unskilled sailors going out to sea, but on bal
ance, I'd wager it has done more to prevent wrecks
than cause them.
As mentioned in its footnote, the article in question
was excerpted from a presentation given by Guy
Matthews to the annual meeting of the US National
Association ofMarine Surveyors in Galveston, Texas, in
April 2007. The presentation, geared toward profes
signals in the field was very much longer and more
detailed; the choice of what to include in the Compass
article, and what to leave out, was the editor's.
We have asked Guy Matthews for his comments on
the particular information you found lacking or ques
tionable in our version of his presentation. His response
Dear Caribbean Compass,
First, I hope that the platoon of surveyors with whom
I deal daily do not find out that their oracle is charged
with the surveyor's most serious of crimes -lack of
precision and inadequate data support. Touche.
Second, I am not a spokesman for any insurer or
special interest and the opinions which I express are
empirically based on personal viewing of yacht insur
ance claims crossing the claims desk rather than
being based on the conventional waterfront wisdom so
often expressed over sundowners.
Yacht insurance buyers should be aware that yacht
insurance is but an infinitesimal speck in the insur
ance marketplace and is affected by external factors
far beyond its control. Therefore it is important for the
yacht insurance business to stand alone as much as
possible by taking in more in premium than is paid
out in claims. I do not have access to the specific loss
ratios for yachts, but the status of the overall insur
ance market is well documented in the world's finan
cial press, governmental filings, annual reports and
multiple other sources. It is known that as a result of
natural disasters in the past three years, the world's
insurers have paid out far more than they took in to
insure the lost or damaged properties.
Every indicator suggests that in recent years the
;;;: ; -fyachts has been far from profitable. Absent
i. .1. yacht premium-to-loss statistics but rely
ing on almost 50 years of experience dealing with the
ebb and flow of marine claims, some facts seem self
evident. Just as the experienced mariner who
observes the wind blowing 40 knots in harbor can
reliably forecast that it is rough offshore, the increase
ing flow of more and larger claims across the claims
desk is as good an indicator of the market as can be
had. The yacht insurers have had a rough period.
With the dramatic increase in the size and frequent
cy of yacht claims in the last decade, I cannot conceive
that the yacht premium income of 2004 and 2005
could come anywhere close to the claims outflow. We
have seen at least three insurers exit the market in the
period and are aware of other well-intended yacht
insurers who went into receivership before the subject
period. Many of the yacht insurers remaining in the
market have added restrictions and draconian terms
to their policies. There is not a queue of enthusiastic
insurers clamoring at the barricades to get into the
yacht insurance business.
I have had the 1 i- il to live through the period in
which yachting ,. i' the domain of the rich and
famous to the present "everyman" level and I know of
no other series of disasters affecting the yacht insur
ance market which will approach the 2004 and 2005
experiences. I was intimately acquainted with
Hurricanes Audrey, Carla, Camille, Betsy, Andrew,
and Hugo in the years before Ivan, Wilma, Katrina and
Rita, and can say with certitude that the latter quar
tet of apocalyptic storms was far more destructive to
the yacht insurers than was the previous group.
There is little argument among yacht insurance pro
fessionals that there are r .'' 1 1 .-' laims today
than inyears past. Using i. 1
cited above, it is my opinion that the '
claims to vessels insured has increased significantly
and that the size of the claim has increased exponen
tially. Unfortunately the actual statistical information
is not at "... I... ." -' as you suggest, but is "seat of
the pants ,i .....
I have never derided the improvement that GPS has
made to navigation (I am not an idiot). But if Captain
Campbell could sit in the claims desk for a few days
he would be astounded at the GPS stories that cross
the desk. One underlying factor which we see regular
ly in those relying solely on electronic charts is the
surprise when their vessel humps on a shoal which
was charted before Francis Drake was a cabin boy. I
believe that paper charts are a necessary supplement
to the GPS and the electronic gizmos sold to the boat
ing public as a panacea for navigation ills. (There is
nothing as comforting to me on a dark night in close
proximity to shoals as -.. i i ..II.... an accurate
"X" on a paper chart.) 1 1,, I i ,.1- .,1 the salvage
and boat-repair businesses trace their existence to the
GPS which encourages the increasing horde of "over
confident boat owners who lack basis sea sense".
Harking back to my 1-. 1-t -.tl -, th- T---
waterfront (and based .. i 11. 1 .1 -I
I believe that vessel owners and operators of the peri
od were more competent than the owners who today
commit the truly outrageous lapses in common sea
sense which result in insurance claims.
I would like to add that our experience is that the
Caribbean boater, excluding Puerto Rico, is a far
superior seaman to his or her nouveau riche mainland
US counterpart. Such is life at the yacht claims desk.
Peace and good sailing,
Please accept this response to the June Forum's let
ter from Katie aboard S/V Raven Eye about the
unorthodox VHF cruiser's net which until recently had
been broadcast here in Margarita on Friday mornings.
I am the cruiser net announcer in question. Over the
past year, I've delivered some 50 broadcasts of "Funky
i i .. i of the Porlamar Cruisers' Net".
I -. '. I '-' similarly idiotic cruiser net
broadcasts in Luperon, Dominican Republic (2001
2002) and 12 irreverent broadcasts in Grenada (2005
2006, which inspired an even more irreverent three
CD series known as "The Grenada Cruiser's Thirty
Minute Radio Hour").
Continued on next page
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Continuedfrom previous page
If you've ever heard one, you know my nets are a lit
tie different. Okay, a lot different. Okay, my nets are
nuts. Yes, they're satirical. Irreverently so. Yes, they
spoof "normal" cruiser nets and those who take them
(too) seriously. They include all the necessities -the
weather, security matters, etcetera -but they also
poke fun at ourselves, the cruising lifestyle, the world
around us and this ridiculously wonderful life we all
lead. Amidst all the buffoonery and jokes, I've no
doubt violated dozens of international maritime com-
munications technicalities by singing songs (about
dinghy security) and playing rock music (for a whole
20 seconds). Sometimes, I've even offered two or
three-minute "radio sermonettes", asking ourselves
relevant questions about respect for the places we visit
and the people we meet, about the way we relate to
one another and about why we are out here, doing
this. You'd never knew when certain other (fictitious)
-... characters might chime in, especially when I
i I take my schizophrenia medication. Hell, I
think I might have even given advice on romance and
personal relationships a time or two (my own particu
lar area of expertise). So no, not your typical morning
cruiser's net at all.
But most cruisers really seemed to like it. Over the
years, I've received only positive feedback: compli
ments, enthusiasm and support and all greatly appre
ciated, just like the comments from Raven's Eye.
However, more recently, there have been com-
plaints. I kinda sensed this when certain listeners
started disrupting (keying out) the broadcasts and/or
calling out obscenities. Hey! I'm a perceptive kinda
guy! I can tell when I've pissed someone off, having
had a lot of experience in that regard.
Now, all the fans of the Funky Friday Net advised me
to ignore it all, to carry on with all the jokes and fri
volity and I tried, really I did. But gradually I came to
the conclusion that maybe it would be best to stop.
Why did I give it up? Three reasons.
First of all, the whole point had been to add a little
mirth and merriment to the net once a week, maybe
create a little positive spirit in ti- 1n-h-r-.- ri-e us
a yuk or two in the morning, ...I ... .1 ...- like
that. But all the negative wave I. .... II I who
felt my net was too unconventional, controversial or
inappropriate, seemed to undermine that original
intent. (I mean, what's wrong with ~l'eiin? orniiers to
never date anyone who has had I .,,.- .. ... I after
them? Isn't that a valuable public service?)
Secondly, all the grief I started receiving took all the
fun out of it for me. Yes, I know what you're thinking.
Many supportive cruisers told me "Hey, if they don't
like it, they can just turn their radios off' (or, as I've
suggested during some of my broadcasts, "just tear
that sucker out by the roots and throw the damn thing
overboard"). And its true that no one really has any
right to expect a cruiser net at all, let alone demand
one that meets their approval in every way. Don't like
it? Don't listen! Seems fair enough.
True, but knowing that some others, even a narrow
minded few, find the broadcasts irritating or moronic
(the two words most commonly used in high praise of
my program) made me uncomfortable. Sure, they can
turn their VHF off but who the hell am I to force them
to do so? Who am I to deny them their conventional net,
eve,, .. .. .. I one's entitled to any net to begin with?
/ ,,i i 11 dll the bad vibes aside, the naked truth
was that my nets were illegal. The VHF "by-the-book
ers" rightfully observe that such broadcasts transcend
the legitimate use of VHF radio. VHF is meant solely
for legitimate, necessary maritime communications,
not music, not humor, not entertainment and certain
ly not my stupid cruiser net, even if it does also hap
pen to serve a legitimate purpose well (to the extent
any VHF cruiser net does so). That aside, I never
would have concerned myself with VHF regulations in
the absence of complaints. However, since those com-
plaints have now come forth, their point, however
technical, however anal, however rudely delivered,
must be taken. When it comes to matters nautical, I
believe in rules too. They are right and I was wrong.
You may 1 i -.; "1.- 1.. Some feel I'm being
cowardlyor I ,,,. 1, -1 .. i- .etto me" and to hell
withanype, I 1 1 i ..... .1. A few fans actually
were annoyed with me for quitting. But hey guys, I'm
just a low life, long haired vagabond hippie cruiser
trying t 1. -- 1 time out here, not create control
versy, I i ... a harmonious harbor spirit or
deliberately piss anyone off. (Those who know me
know I cando . ii ....1 i. nt.) Then you
might reply, "I ... ... .. . .... i do irreverent
satire, you're g ..., I .-. I I II I Ifthatbums
you out, then gee, maybe you've got the wrong hobby"!
And maybe you're right, but one thing's for sure: I
never dreamed I'd get busted by the damn VHF police!
That's : .. F ... pted by the aforementioned com-
plaints, i. I "".I Friday Morning Edition of the
Porlamar Cruisers' Net" is now on indefinite hiatus
pending my indictment on 130 separate violations of
international maritime communication law (not to
mention a couple of injunctions filed by some board of
radio journalism ethics or whatever). Pending my con
viction(s), I'll continue to volunteer to do the net here
in Porlamar (now from a handheld smuggled into soli
tary confinement here on Cell Block F) but, on the
advice of counsel, without any of the earlier Funky
Friday frivolity. Sorry to those (including me) who
used to look forward to it.
But my sincere thanks to everyone for their support
and encouragement. Again, my only hope was to bring
a smile to your face and if I ever did, I'm thankful. It
has been my pleasure. To the extent I have offended
anyone or failed to live up to their expectations for a
more austere and normal cruisers' net, I do hereby
publicly and most sincerely apologize.
So, lets get back to basics, back to more serious,
conventional, strictly informative and universally
acceptable cruiser nets. In the meantime, I'll behave.
Really. Honest, I will. My attorneys told me to say so
even though the court-appointed psychiatrist has his
doubts. But remember this folks: if you heard it on the
Funky Friday Morning Edition of the Porlamar
Cruisers' Net (or if you read it here in the pages of
Caribbean Compass) then it certainly must be true!
Quote from July 2007 Compass, Info & Updates
Allen Chastenet, who is also St. Lucia's Minister of
Tourism (and chairman of the Caribbean Tourism
Association -CTO): "The evidence is now overwhelm-
i;- t-.t tourism and commerce in the Caribbean have
..11 I considerably as a result of the Western
Hemisphere Travel Initiative passport rule."
If what Mr. Chastenet says is true (where does this
"overwhelming evidence" come from?), why are the
Caribbean islands, including St. Lucia, continuing to
build more and more hotels to add to those that
already have only a ten-percent occupancy six months
out of the year? Is it possible that the decline in visi
tors to the Caribbean is more of a direct result of the
p.i-- -;;i;;n CTO members engaged in during the
" .- .-. ..- (Mr. Chastenet's word) World Cup
Cricket? Or possibly, because of all of the predictions
of thousands of cricket fans coming to the islands,
non-cricket fans stayed away?
Hasn't the CTO been paying attention to the fact
that the United States has been tightening their bor
ders since the terrorist attacks of September 11? And
have they not been paying attention to the heated
debate currently taking place in the United States
regarding the estimated 13 million to 20 million
undocumented (i. .ii 11, ..-.... ... in the US
and how best to ... 11 1I *i -i,, .i ,, I put those
numbers into perspective: the number of illegal aliens
in the US is more than 13 to 20 times the total popu
nation of all OECS countries combined.)
What are the tourism officials of the Eastern
Caribbean doing to prepare for the inevitable when the
passport regulations do go into effect? Perhaps they
should follow the example of their counterparts in
Jamaica who, instead of wringing their hands and cry
ing "woe is me", took a positive approach. They set up
kiosks in a number of US airports where they offered
a cup of Jamaican coffee and handed out passport
applications to those who stopped by.
Surely, something along those lines would be more
productive than hyperbole.
S/V Second Millennium
Editor's note: We attempted to contact CTO Chairman
Allen Chastenet for a response, but were unable to do
so before press time.
Dear Compass Readers,
CrisisShield's Grenada Appeal, ......ii conceived
as a 12-month project, has close (I .11 3 months
working with the people of Grenada.
CrisisShield came about as a result of the rl't -
4 Hurricane Ivan which, on September 7th, I
one-third of Grenadians homeless. The island was
devastated, with damage estimated by the
International Monetary Fund to be more than 200 per
cent of Grenada's gross domestic product. This was a
disaster of immense proportions and, being so quick
ly followed by two century-class disasters (the Boxing
Day Tsunami and Hurricane Katrina), was also con
sidered by the United Nations to be the most under
CrisisShield grew out of this disaster when a group
of international yachtspeople, ex-pats and Grenadians
pooled their resources to support those worst affected
by the hurricane. While most of these volunteers had
houses or yachts that were severely damaged or
destroyed, they used whatever resources they had left
to help those who were unable to help themselves.
Within days aid, donated and delivered by the yacht
ing and local communities in Barbados, Trinidad,
Bequia and Venezuela, was flowing through this group
and other ad hoc organizations to be distributed to
remote villages, principally in St. David's, which was
the parish worst affected. In addition, in excess of
US$38,000 was raised to support the hospitals
which were at breaking point -with food, medicine
and a generator to keep the laundry functioning.
Continued on next page
Continued from previous page
Recognising 1i. .1 ... i,... .i, 4e acute support needs
was only the I I .. i challenges, a number
of these volunteers then formalised their aid efforts by
registering CrisisShield as a Non-Governmental
S.... i in the UK, US and Canada.
II, Ii ,,.- i,. ii, I )cus moved to the chronic need
I .. .... .. -. .I housing.
By the conclusion of the Appeal, a further
US$264,000 had been raised 1-ri;;:i;; th- t-t.l to
US$302,050, with this extra :.... i.... I... I new
hurricane-resistant houses for . .... I .I, left
homeless by Hurricane Ivan. But these simple states
tics belie the months and years of determination that
CrisisShield volunteers have shown while competing
with other disasters to attract funding, and operating
in a post-disaster environment and culture that pro
vided plenty of opportunities to develop tolerance,
determination and understanding. Without the self
less contributions of these volunteers, none of
CrisisShield's achievements would have been possi
ble. While they are too numerous to mention all by
name, I would like to thank everyone involved.
The other key element for any organisation like
CrisisShield is those people who are prepared to put
their hands in their pockets. The majority were indi
viduals, with two of the three most generous donors
expressing a preference for anonymity. However, two
organizations deserve particular mention.
Our largest donor was the Chartered Institute of
Housing. Thanks to the encouragement of Richard
Renwick MBE, 1 ...... I ii....s made CrisisShield
the beneficiary I i..- I -. I Appeal which con
tribute a total of US$60,781 to our work. Theirs and
their members' support was instrumental and came at
a time when, due to other disasters, all further lines of
funding had dried up. Also making a big impact was
the fourth largest contributor, Grenada's Housing
Authority, providing US$35,350 of early funding
towards four houses which were co-funded by further
donations made on island. Other notable donors
included Nightingale Charitable Trust, Alasdair and
Jean England, Sonia Drake, John Triggs, the Melvin
and Bren Simon Foundation, Doug and Gill Hurt,
Trevor and Terri Butcher, John Franklin, Andy Green,
Craig and Karen Marsh, Greta Geankoplis, Enza
Marine, Leon Taylor and a syndicate organised by
With any operation like this the obvious activity is
just the tip of the 1 -;: with most of the work being
hidden from view I..I volunteers came and went,
notable amongst those who contributed at some stage
of the Appeal or other, and who undertook these often
thankless tasks, were:
My wife, Sarah Bruce, (S/Y Indigo ...... 1...... 1
by Ivan) worked for the 33-month i.. .1. .. I 'I
Appeal in whatever roles needed doing (albeit we have
both been part-time for the last few months); Jim and
Kathleen Davidson (S/Y Drummer) worked for ten
months running the construction and f :~ -=1n-.: -
respectively; Ron Thomson (S/Y Jacobite) -, I ,
several months in setting up the yard and construct
tion processes; Robert Monnier (S/YMyriad) ran the
yard for the time we were building steel-framed house
es; Anshu Sharma helped out on the fundraising for a
number of weeks. The arrival of these volunteers and
the onr-- th infused was critical to the continue
tion I .-.. -I,, I I at a time when we were beset by
one unexpected challenge after another.
Working equally hard but on a part time basis were:
Greta Geankoplis (ex-S/Y Fortuna written off by
Ivan); Vicki Thackray; Sonia Drake (ex-M/YSoniaD -
damaged by Ivan); Daniela Froehlich (S/Y Dione);
Robin and Nanette Swaisland (M/YHappy Our dam
aged by Ivan); Clare Lee; Junior Cuffie; Numa Rais;
Steve Aspey (S/Y Melika); Russell Hough; Craig and
Karen Marsh (ex-S/Y Fabuloso); Paul Pearson (S/Y
Jasp); Jesse James; Paul (whose surname and boat
nameescapeme, i 1 i 1 ,. . I ..
Trevor and Terri I i . i, d. i ....1 1.1,
damaged by Ivan); Grant Lambert; Joni St. Bernard;
John Triggs (S/Y Little Women -damaged by Ivan);
Sarah Kennedy; Mike Bingley and Lucy Murchie (S/Y
Tulaichean II damaged by Ivan); Peter and Anne
Thomson (S/Y Muskrat -damaged by Ivan); Steve
Wooster (ex-S/Y Delphina -lost as a result of Ivan);
Michael Maclntyre; Claude and Wendy McKernan
(S/YWend); Cay Hickson (S/YMy '1V', 1.;,.: 1
Ivan); Jill Richards; Jill Longson; II, i .. i,, i.
Home); Marilyn Prickett; Allen Brusilow; Pastor
Maureen Magneson, and; last but definitely not least,
Of course, businesses were als, -,.,,, .
tance to our cause, including: Co' i,1, ,, 1,. I,.
Compass Publishing; Palm Island Resort; SVG Air;
Island Water World (Jonathan Fisher); Calabash Hotel
(Clive Barnes); Horizon Yacht Charters (James and
Jacqui Pascal); Enza Marine (Neil Mcleod and then
Greta Geankoplis); Outfitters (Alston and Margaret
DeRoche); Budget Marine (Junior Cuffie); Prickly Bay
Waterside (Jan and Conor); Bananas (Roger, Claire
and Myrna Spronk); Ciboney Chambers (Nizam
Burke); De Big Fish (Brad); Digicel (Janis Cuffie);
Phusion (Richard Ramdhanny and Dee); and not for
getting the now closed Barking Barracuda (Ron and
Jackie van Straalan).
At a time when the workload of tb- "--mrnmnt -f
Grenada was higher than normal :. . -1 i ....
time to give support to CrisisShield, and we would like
to particularly thank: the Agency for Reconstruction
and Development; the Emergency Housing
Committee; the Ministry of Legal Affairs; Grenadian
Immigrations; Customs; and Coast Guard -and note
the assistance of the Prime Minister's Office and the
Ministries of Housing and Finance.
Finally, I would like to thank my fellow trustees,
both past and present, whose contribution was vital.
They were: Sarah Bruce (UK); Paul Collis (UK, US and
Canada); Jim Davidson (US); Kathleen Davidson (US);
Colin Habgood (UK -Chairman); Greta Geankoplis
(US), Promil Paul (Canada); Ron Richards (US), and
Vicki Thackray (US).
Due to the passage of time and my imperfect mem-
ory, others deserving of recognition are bound to have
been overlooked. However, mentioned or not, all stood
up and made a difference without expectation of
recognition or reward, and without whom CrisisShield
could not and would not have existed.
To all of you who so generously joined in -whether
as volunteer, donor, supporter or recipient -thank
you for sharing the adventure!
Nick Bruce, Founding Trustee
S/Y Indigo Drum
Dear Compass Readers,
My name is Melanie Tompkins and I'm a journalist
who works for the TV company ITV in the UK.
. .. .. 1 .... .... i rimetime one hour doc
.... .. .. I 11 .. ...... people's experiences of
-'-in 1 4nd owning property abroad. The programme
.11 I .i.. a wide range of experiences from around
the globe and will look at owners of holiday homes and
permanent residences. We are hoping to speak to as
many people as possible with a good story to tell, and
would love to hear about a range of scenarios -from
damaging weather conditions, to building disasters or
S...-i ... i1,... -'range and spooky about the
i 1 1 1 I. .- , their lives.
If you have a story or would like more information,
feel free to contact me. I can be reached at
or on tel +44 (0)20 7578 4227.
Many thanks in advance and I look forward to hear
ing from you.
Dear Compass Readers,
We want to hear from YOU!
Please include your name, boat name or address,
and a way we can contact you if clarification is
We do not publish individual consumer complaints or
individual regatta results complaints (kudos are okay!).
We do not publish anonymous letters; however, your
name may be withheld in print at your request.
Letters may be edited for length, clarity andfair play.
Send your letters to:
or fax (784) 457-3410
Compass Publishing Ltd.
St. Vincent & the Grenadines
A&C YACHT BROKERS
BOATS FOR SALE
Port de plaisance du MARIN
www. acyachtbrokers com
Independent Boatyard St. Thomas, USVI
47 Stevens, 1981 $ 210,000
44 Beneteau Oceanis, 1994 $185,000
44 CSY walkover, 1978 $ 79,000
42 Hunter Passage, 1995 $159,000
42 Catalina MKII, 1996 $121,900
38 Kennex Catamaran, 1992 $139,000
38 Morgan/Catalina, 1996 $119,000
37 C&C, 1985 $ 48,600
36 Frers, 1985 $ 48,500
36 Cabo Rico Tiburon, 1976 $ 28,000
35 Morgan, 1971 $ 29,000
34 Tartan, 1988 $ 49,000
55 Cheoy Lee LRC, 1980 $329,000
50 Marine Trader, 1980 $149,000
45 Silverton MY, 2003 $ 415,000
42 Cruisers Express 1999 $ 249,000
37 Fountaine Pagot Trawler $ 445,000
34 Mainship, 1979 $ 30,000
27 Grady White, 1997 $ 40,000
26 Fortier w/cuddy, 1985 $ 59,900
YEMR TYPE PRICE
1992 2W9 O Cartaba Sloop IREUCEOI) US 22.000
1999 30'Henderson30RacingYachl) US$ 60,000
198B 30 Jeamau Sunigh30 USI 40,000
1989 35'Haerg -Rassy USI 124,000
1986 36'Lar os Tosca US$ 53,000
1989 36'Rlnke Super l Stee Sloop US$ 45,000
1977 37' Gin Fir EU$ 42.500
1978 40'Alanti40 USi 70,000
1985 40'Olfshore 40 (NAKEDU ) US 149,000
1999 43'WauluP Ilo Saloon EUS 247.500
1992 45'fortla USS 150,000
1991 50'Cesleal PlithDse US 268,000
1987 51'ea~nleaullel5.5 USS 160,000
1995 53'Super Miramuo (REDWlUCE USS 329.000
1962 53'HaItenas LLtry Cruiser US$ 254,000
1994 55'Oysler55 US$ 776,000
1973 56'Vsch MtorYac USS 150,000
1993 36.5' Dn Catanaran(REDUCEDIM USS 99,500
2002 37' FountainePalt US$ 325.000
1998 47' SGcel Calaaran US$ 168,000
1980 54' Norm Cross Traran US 295,000
1995 56 Custom But Trnran USS 350,000
1991 55' LagoonCatamaran USI 559,000
1990 72' Alhnare Lougebn) Catamaran US$ 1.190,000
Caribbean Yachting B. J. Inc
YACHT CHARTERS, BROKERAGE, SERVICES, RACES
ST. LUCIA, RODNEY BAY MARINA TEL: (758) 458 4430 FAX: (758) 452 0742
Beneteau41S5 92 $ 90000 Princess 50 $550000
Jeanneau 35 03 $ 90000 Lagoon Cata 55S $590000
Nauticat 52 84 E 230 000 63" Catamaran $ 800 000
Beneteau 50 01 $219000 House Boat $ 50000
Van der Stadt 46 $ 75 000 35" Racing Extreme $ 50 000
Wauquiez 38 $ 75 000 Beneteau 411 from $115000
Beneteau 38S5 $ 75 000 Jeanneau 45.2 from $145000
BAREBOAT, RACE, CREWED CHARTERS REPAIRS, EXOTIC MATERIALS
AGENT FOR NEW JEANNEAU YACHTS
TradeWinds Cruise Club operate a fleet of catamarans across
TflDsix destinations in the Caribbean
... We are the fastest growing charter company,
operating TERM CHARTERS, all inclusive, 7 days
We are looking for crew, mainly teams in the form of a Captain and a Chef/Hostess
We prefer couples that are married OR have been living together for at least a year
The nature of the job is such that the better the understanding and teamwork
between Captain and Chef the more successful your charters will be
Requirements Captain with a Skipper's licence
Chef/Hostess with a basic understanding of cooking
Dive master/ instructor for either the Captain and/or Chef is a plus
We offer full training onsite in the Caribbean
This is a FUN job with great earning potential If you are willing to work hard and
have a positive disposition to life this could be your DREAM job
Anyone with an interest is welcome to apply
If you would like more information about this job or send your CV to us, please
use this email address
or by mail to Bequia Marina, PO Box 194, Port Elizabeth,
Bequia, St Vincent & the Grenadines
Tel St Vincent +784 457 3407 Tel St Maarten +599 5510550
CA TA MA RA NS
*63 x 24 Power Cat USCG Stability test for 149 PAX
*Available as single or double deck
Fast delivery Twin Diesel Base Price $299,000
NEW 63' SAIL CAT
SEATING FOR 90 PASSENGERS
All new Offshore 53' catamaran Twin diesel,
49 passengers, Base price $199,000
b RII.. Bper (72)67 llillJ.coopermarine.com
I recently cruised down-island for ten days from Martinique after an absence of
more than 20 years. I knew the islands really well at that time, including nearly all
'.... ,, .. between Culebra in the Spanish Virgins and Grenada at the south
.I... i i ii. Eastern Caribbean chain. Apart from the increased charges and the
sheer quantity of boats, what struck me most was the regulations.
For instance, the inner harbour of Marigot Bay, St. Lucia, where I used to anchor
regularly is now out of bounds. An anchorage to the port side of the entrance was
indicated to me between two catamarans which were too close , i
out sufficient scope for the 14 or 15 metre depth. Apart from th I,
channel, there did not seem anywhere else to go.
Farther south along St. Lucia's coast, just around the corner from Anse Chastenet
is the Hummingbird Anchorage where you can use your own anchor (according to
Chris Doyle) which we duly did, arriving at nightfall. We took a line ashore to avoid
rolling. Not long after, the Soufriere Marine Management Area park warden came to
-A 01. uclu s -ruoT-s we pauajor a tmTitTne punr mrfoorng ouoy
ask for $20 for the park fee. As far as I know we were not in a park area and we used
our own anchor. However, he finally said he would visit us at the Pitons the follow
ing morning where we should use a buoy and we could pay then and snorkel on the
southern reef. This we did, but were surprised to find an active fish pot (without
float) inside the buoyed perimeter.
Inside the windward lagoon at Canouan in the Grenadines, conditions were not
good either for snorkelling or for anchoring. We found a spot with about 30 cen
timetres under the keel not far from the coral barrier which seems (from previous
memory) to be greatly dilapidated causing the anchorage to be fairly uncomfortable.
The reefs inside the lagoon where I have snorkelled with big barracudas, sharks that
were quite big enough thank you, lazy rays, and many white sea urchins, seem to
have lost most of their fauna.
In Mustique we met some friends from Martinique who had chartered a catama
ran in which they anchored in Canouan's lagoon the day after us. With shoal draft
they were able to anchor farther north than us, but were ordered to leave by the per
sonnel of the shoreside development.
Arriving at Britannia Bay in Mustique coming from Canouan (I often used to
anchor there when the wind allowed) we dropped anchor on a sandy bottom in about
three and a half metres, reasonably sheltered behind the starboard reef. Later when
we reached the moorings in front of Basil's Bar, we were surprised to find that this
is the only place where yachts can now stop, and that they must make fast to a
mooring buoy, which of course is charged for. What happened to the pleasant
anchorage in front of the Cotton House?
However, it was still possible to anchor in front of the Frangipani Hotel at
Admiralty Bay, Bequia, which I used to do regularly for the Thursday evening
scratch band jump-up, arriving solo from G--"n I 1n* i. ~i"--,rini- under sail.
Nowadays the boats are just a little too close I. I I I i I
We did not go as far as Tobago Cays, where I used to spend many lazy days at
anchor, but I gather the story is the same.
Well, 20 or 30 years have made a big difference to ecological issues, but is it real
ly necessary t -- t;-i--t . --1.; :;; 1 : ale fashion? Or is this just a way
ofearninga I I .. I I. I I i . .. I to look for a little liberty?
And when it comes to a really extensive anchorage behind a reef fronting a private
resort like Canouan, or sandy bays in an island like Mustique, or a natural harbour
like Marigot, by what authority can boats be '- I I '. ... 1.. ..... l. .. .lot
endangering reefs? These are harbourss" ano I I -I I
Ah well, luckily we have our memories!
P.S. Finally, apart from some fishing regulations, you can anchor almost anywhere
in Martinique, and its free. You can even do your clearance at Sea Services chan
dlery (Fort-de-France), in air-conditioned comfort -it takes less than five minutes,
consists of one duplicated form, and is free during opening hours.
And Jerome Nouel has performed a labour of love in his cruising guide to
Martinique, which shows access to all those tempting windward bays, islands and
anchorages. You should give Martinique a try next time you've had enough of
Continued on next page
Continuedfrom previous page
Thanks very much for your letter, which brings up an important issue facing
Caribbean yachting tourism development today: the balance between free anchoring
and factors which prevent it.
Free anchoring has always been an icon of cruising, and one of the main attractions
of the Caribbean as a sailing destination, and we hope it always will be. But as you
mention, the number of boats sailing in the waters of the Caribbean has increased
phenomenally in the past 20 years, and -as in the case of vehicles using the roads
or human beings populating the planet -there is inevitably a correlation between
numbers of users and numbers of rules regulating that use.
While not acting as an apologist for rules and regulations, we've done a little
research on the instances you mention in the interest ofclarification:
The inner harbour ofMarigot Bay, St. Lucia: We spoke to Bob Hathaway, manag
er of The Marina at Marigot Bay. Bob tells us that it was the intention of the Saint
Lucia Air and Seaports Authority (SLASPA) in giving permission for the mooring buoy
field to be laid in the inner part of Marigot Bay that anchoring in the inner bay should
be prohibited except under tropical storm or hurricane conditions. In practice, he says,
this position is not being actively enforced by SLASPA and is only being actively
enforced by the Marina when the anchored boat would cause an obstruction to access
to the Marina, a navigation channel or another yacht already on a mooring buoy.
Bob adds, "Compass readers might be interested to know that the net proceeds of
the SLASPA mooring 'ralr fi--l, 1 -I-a. and
have, thus far, been II-'I r., jirrl. I the
maintenance of the water security patrol craft. No profit is taken from the mooring
buoys by The Marina at Marigot Bay."
For more information, contact Bob at (758) 451-4275/285-4515 or marina@marigot
bau.comn call the Marina on VHF 6, or visit www.mariqotbau.com/the-marina.htmL
The Hummingbird Anchorage, St. Lucia: Jeremy, your copy ofDoyle must be an old
one! The Hummingbird Anchorage has been part of the SMMA since the marine park
was officially launched in 1995. On page 182 of his 20072008 edition of Sailors
Guide to the Windward Islands, Chris writes: "Hummingbird Anchorage: This is the
most comfortable anchorage in the SMMA and it is one of the only places where you
are allowed to use your own anchor in the park. Unfortunately, anchoring is now only
permitted from 1800-0600, so it only works for a one-night stop."
Our understanding is that this is a compromise to allow anchoring yet not conflict
with traditional fishing activities, such as seine netting, which are permitted in that
zone of the SMMA.
For more information visit www.smma.org.lc or call SMMA on VHF 16.
Windward lagoon at Canoua: We spoke to one ofthe staffat The Moorings yacht char
ter base in Canouan. Although she noted that The Moorings prefer that their guests not go
there due to safety factors, asfar as either of us know there is no law against anchoring
on the windward side of Canouan. However, there apparently has been a problem with
people from anchored yachts coming ashore and attempting to use the swimming pool or
other private facilities at the resort, whereupon resort personnel have asked them to leave
the grounds. (Note however, that all beaches in St. Vincent & the Grenadines are public.)
Mustique: Mustique is a privately owned island managed by the Mustique Company.
The company is responsiblefor a marine conservation area extending 1,000feet offshore
right around the island For many years now, Britannia Bay has been the only permit
ted yacht anchorage and it has been mandatory to use a mooring there unless they are
all taken or your yacht is over 50feet in length. Day charter boats can ask the harbour
masterfor permission to anchor at Endeavour Bay (in front of the Cotton House Hotel).
For more information visit the harbourmaster at his office at the foot of the Britannia
Bay jetty, or call Mustique Moorings at (784) 488-8363, VHF 16/68.
Regarding your last question, "by what authority can boats be prevented from
anchoring?" The waters around Mustique and the Hummingbird Anchorage have been
made marine protected areas under the laws of St. Vincent & the Grenadines and St.
Lucia respectively. Marigot Bay, St. Lucia, a port of entry, is under the control of the
St. Lucia Air and Sea Ports Authority (SLASPA).
Behind the question of who has the legal authority to prohibit anchoring arejustifi
able reasons for such prohibition, which include environmental protection and avoid
ance of user conflicts, as well as other reasons which might be viewed askance. But
overall there is the needfor policies that balance any reasons for "no anchoring" rules
with the overwhelming desire of both yachting visitors and local recreational sailors to
have abundant safe places to anchor their boats. While the clock will never turn back
20 years to the days when we could anchor just about anywhere, we hope that the
powers that be will wisely use the principle of "asset allocation" for their marine
resources, designating appropriate areas for environmental reserves, fishing, com
mercial shipping and recreational boating -including the right mix of dockage, moor
ings and plenty of room for good old fashioned anchoring.
SKINNERS YARIA CHMIAGRAUMAS, TFNAIN WL
TI (86B 6344663 / 6314-4U Fa (88) 634-269
Contact FraimBs at dtnaitte@tslJnet.Itt
www.yachworld.comndynaiabnrolrage YA C S
Large selection of Yachts b Power Boats
ST. THOMAS YACHT SALES
Compass Point Marina, 6300 Est. Frydenhoj, Suite 28,
St. Thomas, U.S.V.I. 00802
Tel: (340) 779-1660
Fax: (340) 779-2779
ht email@example.com ya
MiVd amarDer 49 19/9
Bluewater Cruiser, Loaded
40' 1987 O'Day Sloop
43' 1979 Young Sun
44' '82 Ta Chiao CT
50' '90 Morgan Catalina,
iMarian 44 1I//
CSY New Rigging,
2 strms, new engine, well maintained
Bluewater cruiser, AP, radar, liferaft
Canoe Stern, Perkins 4-108
3 strm, new eng, chain plates
32' 2003 Sea Ray Sundancer Low hrs, great weekender
36' 1989 Grand Banks Trwl, Classic, Twin Cummins
42' '81 Post Sportfish Twin DD's, very good condition
48' '89 Hi Star Trawler Sundeck, 3 strms, 375HP Cats
Call, fax or visit our website for a complete list of boats for sale
BV. YACHT- SALES
Located at Nanny Cay Marina
SAIL 40' Beneteau M405 3 cabl2 hd Loaded '95 $119K
64' Haj Kutter Schooner, Square Rig, 3 cab/1 hd'30 $475K 40' Bayfield, 2 cab/i hd, Ketch, Motivated Sellers'84 $99K
60' Palomba Pilothouse CC Ketch 5 cab/2 hd '70 $119K 40' Catalina 400, 2cab/2hd, Great Condition '95 $109K
58' Boothbay Challenger CC Ketch, 3 cabl2 hd '73 $295K 40' Jeanneau Sun Ody. 3cabl2hd, Well Priced '00 $112K
54' Hylas CC, 3 cab2hd, Immaculate Condition '99 $700K 40' Jeanneau Sun Ody. 3 cabl2 hd '99 $109K
54' Gultstar 54, 3 cab/2 hd, Luxurious &Spacious '86 $349K 39' Tollycraft Fast Passage Cutter, 2 cab/ hd '83 $125K
53' German Frers, Ketch, 3 cab/2 hd '01 $299K 38' Hunter 380, 3cabl hd Lowest Price on Market '99 $79K
52' Jeanneau Sun Ody, 3 cab3 hd, Loaded! '03 $405K 37' Tartan 3700, 2 cabl1 hd, Upgrades '03 $219K
51' Formosa Cust. Ketch CC, 3 cab/3 hd '80 $199K 37' Jeanneau Sun Ody. 2cab/lhd Motivated '00 $109K
50' Beneteau 50, Cutter, 4 cable crew/5 hd '02 $329K 36' S211.OA 1 cabll Qtr berth/1 hd '85 $49K
49' Ta Chiao CT49 Cutter CC, 2 cab/2 hd '85 $159K 36' Tiburon, Cutter/Ketch Icab/lhd Solid Cruiser'76 $47K
47' Vagabond, Ketch C 2 cab/2 hd '87 $249K 36' Beneteau M362, 2 Cab/lhd Lowest on Market '00 $75K
46' Morgan 461 CC, 3 cab/2 hd '82 $87K 36' Jeanneau Sun Ody. 2 cablM hd '99 $65K
46' Kelly Peterson P46 CC, Cutter 2 cabl2 hd '88 $249K 35' O'Day 2 cab/ hd, Great Condition '87 $42K
46'Formosa Peterson Cutter, 2 cab2 hd '79 $119K 31' Bombay Clipper, 1 cab/1 hd '81 $24K
46' Hunter 460, 3 cab/2 hd 2 avail.from '00 $149K MULTIHULLS
45'Jeanneau Sun Ody. 3 cabl3 hd '99 $149K 82' Dutour Nautitech 8cabl8hd Major refit '95 $895K
45' Bombay Explorer 2 cab/2 hd World Cruiser 78 $59K 46' Fountaine Pajot Bahia 4 ca4 hd, 2avalfrom '01 $370K
45' Hunter Marine Passage CC, 2 cab2 hd '98 $149K 42' SolarisCat, 4 cabl4 hd, in Rio Dulce '86 $109K
44' Beneteau 44CC, 2 ca2 hd In Great Shape '94 $189K 40'Fountaine Pa ot Lavezzi Owner's Version '03 $295K
44 CSY 44CC, Cutter 2 cab2hd, Reducd-Motated77 $85K 38' Lagoon 4 cab4 hd, Meticulous owners '01 $239K
44' CSY Walkover CC, 2 cab/2 hd, Great Condition'79 $165K 27' Heavenly Twins, 2 cabl2 hd '92 $59K
43' Hans Christ. Christina, Cutter, 3 cabil hd '88 $185K POWER
43' Jeanneau Sun Od. 3-4 cab2 hd, 2 avail. from '01 $175K 56' Horizon Motor yacht, Immaculate Condition!'01 $690K
43' Mason, 2 cab/lhd, World Cruiser '81 $99K 48' Horizon 48 Motor Yacht, 3 cabl3 head '00 $310K
42' Dutour Gibsea, 3 cab2 hd, Well Maintained '01 $125K 42' Hi-Star Trawler, 2 cabl2 hd '88 $199K
42' J Boat J/130, 2 cab/lhd, Good Upgrades '93 $199K 42' Nova Marine Trawler, Sundeck trawler '98 $249K
42' Hunter, 2 ca/b2 hd, New Listing '03 $199K 42' Hershine 42, Motor yacht 4 cab/4 head '89 $99K
41' Morgan 416, Ketch CC, 2 cabl2 hd '83 $78K 36' Heritage East 362 cab2 hd, 2 avail from '01 $187K
40' Island Packet, 2 ca/2 hd, Well Maintained '98 $219K 35' Maxum SCR 3500, 2 cab/ head '01 $129K
40' Beneteau CC, 2 cab/2 hd '00 $149K 27' Eastern 27 Down East, 1 cab '06 $99K
P.O Box 638, Road Town, Tortola, British Virgin Islands
Tel: 284-494-3260 Fax: 284-494-3535 e-mail: firstname.lastname@example.org
website: www.bviyachtsales.com / Call for a complete list of over 70 boats
45' MOTOR SAILER, lyn
Martinique, recently restore
fiberass hull, seawoy, cm-
fortable and spacious vessel.
Well maintdned 6 berths, full
equipped. USS7500D Te
- '-. -- 1 E-mail
DUFOUR 34, 2006 perfect cond-
tion. well equipped, ready for
regatta management and
charter possibilities, good
revenue guaranteed, lying
email@example.com Tel (590)
31' (9.35M) MURIA 1992
Bermuda sloop. Popular So.
Africa design by Oswald
Beckmeye built by Z-Craft in
Durban S.A. Yanmar 2GM20
Zetus manual windlass, many
extras for cruising. Berthed at
Grenada Yacht ub Contact
Selwyn Tel (473)4354174
CANOUAN STAR Catamaran
12m x 6.6m x 60Ckg, 2 x 27cv
en lines. Marc Espagon design
built by La Griffe Marine.
Revolutionary boat n good con-
difion and resoncby priced at
US$60K/neg. For more info cal
Olliver a Ddli Tel (784) 458-8888
PEARSON 30 BUILT 1973, new
Yanmar 2GM20 new Awlgp, 2
jibs, 2 mains, spinnaker, V, CD,
wheel steering, lots more. Good
E-mail nicolal 111 bequia.net
CMS YACHT BROKER CARIER33 1972Perkins3hp,12
Hallberg Rassy 15' US$350K, 3" beam. Aries self steering vey
Hallberg 45 POA, Bavarian well equipped for blue water
44' 135 uro Grand Soleil 52 sailing, reaUd to go, in
US4285K. San Juan 34' 50K, Anfigua. US$30,000 E-mal
Van der Stadt 40 139K firstname.lastname@example.org
Pearson 36' 45K. Custom
Ketch 40 10OK. Power Cat 72 .
POA. Roger Simpson 42' 86K.
Craddock 40 110K Roger
Simpson Cat 40 175K.
Trinidad, Tel (868) 739-6449
designed classic. As of 05 new
sails, new Imron paint, new
thruhulls, bottom job new
head, Harken roller furling,
new bilge pumps & eectron
ics, shoal draft, in Caribbean
and ready to cruise $35K E-
ENDEAVOUR 38 in Trinidad
excellent condition, cruise in
comfort at a fraction of the
price. Northern Lights gener-
ator, wind, solar, chart plot-
ter, Autohelm 60D0, Sto-
boom main furling cockpit
enclosure and much more.
Engines recently overhauled,
new paint. E-mail
52' IRWIN KETCH
Tel (868) 650-1914 E-mail
FISHER 37 newly installed
10lhp diesel, new sails, sea-
worthy, fully equipped, GPS,
auto pilot, power winch,
new dinghy/OB and many
owner improvements, in
excellent condition, lying in
storage Rodney Bay, St.
Lucia. US$85,000 Kristine
Choy Tel (246)429-8131/239-5955
9194-2436 (Brazil) E-mail
space, grace & pace. Now
needng restoration she is seri-
ously for sde as is, where is, Mng
Carriacou, US$30,000 for
details & pictures Tel (473)
MASTS TURBULENCE GRENADA
has 3 masts suitable for
36HP YANMAR OUTBOARD
DIESEL TEL (868) 650-1914
FRIENDSHIP BAY, BEQUIA
Lovely 1250 sq ft. cottage, 100
yards from beach. 2 master
bedrooms, 1 guest bedroom,
full kitchen, laundry, level with
road no stairs! 12,558 sq ft of
land, fenced with mature
fruit frees. US$320,0D0, Term
rental available. E-mail
CARRIACOU, ONE ACRE LOTS
and multi acre tracts. Great
views overlooking Southern
Grenadines and Tyrrel Bay
GRENADA LaPASTORA, ST.
DAVID Prime location for Eco-
tourism project. With 2 bed-
room, 2 bath Japanese style
house on 4 acres of cultivated
land. House designed for
easy expansion. T (473)
J',.-r'J-0 j,-u --- E-mail
PROPERTY FOR SALE at Bells
Point, Lower Bay Bequia. House
and Land. Serious buyers onl.
Sale by owner. Call (784)
456 4963 after 6pm.
PUERTO LA CRUZ, VENZ. INSUR-
ANCE SURVEYS, electrical prob-
lems and yacht deliveries. Tel
PET MOTEL & SPA True Blue,
Grenada. Boarding for most
any type of pet from dogs &
cats to birds and hamsters.
Grooming for dogs & puppies -
bathing, demating, trimming,
cleaning eyes & ears, cutting
nails, etc. For detdls call Andrea
Tel (473) 420-1874
NIMROD'S RUM SHOP, GRENADA
Eggs, bread, cheese, ice on
sale. Taxi service available,
propane tank fill-up,
personal laundry service.
Happy Hour every day from 5-
6pm Moonlight party every
full moon. VH 16
COMPASS POINT MARINA, ST.
THOMAS has deep and shal-
low slips available for long
term, short term and tran-
sient rental. We also have
large lockers, Artists Studios
and Office Space available
at reasonable rates.
Tel (340) 775-6144 E-mail
WATERMAKERS Complete sys-
tems. membranes, spaces and
se/ice available at Curacao
and Puerto La Cruz, Venezuela.
Check our prices at
ww.watercraflate rn er.com
In PLC Tel (58)416-3824187
"h 1. ,: 1 i- : : : i ,1
WANTED I am 58, male,
retired, fit and looking for a
cruising opportunity for 1 to
3 months in the Nov/Jan
timeframe. Have experi-
ence, am dependable and
easy to get on with. Willing
to share sailing, cooking,
chores and expenses.
Contact Bob E-mail
APTArlI NEEDED -'-
Masters License, STCW, Crowd
Control, and Crowd
Management Great pay, plus
bonuses'- = "- --
tain Tel -
MARINE TECHNICIAN WANTED
marne engineering Co in
Grenada seeking all round
experienced technician for
electrical, electronics, diesel &
- i- assist
- - "
Dispose of your
EC$1/US 404 per word -
include name, address
and numbers in count. Line
panying classified are
EC$20/US$8. Check or
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in EC$ or US$ payable to
Compass Publishing must
Deadline is the 15th of each
month, preceding the
month of issue. Copy
received after deadline will
be held for next issue. Send
copy, photo and payment
to: Compass Publishing, PO
Box 175, Bequia, St. Vincent
and the Grenadines.
Fax: (784) 457-3410 or
I3 AD ETSR IN E
A&C Yacht Brokers
Admiral Yacht Insurance
B & C Fuel Dock
Barefoot Yacht Charters
Bay Island Yachts
Bogles Round House
BVI Yacht Sales
Caribbean Propellers Ltd
Caribbean Star Airlines
Corea's Food Store Musbque
Dockwise Yacht Transport Sari
Dominica Marine Center
Dopco Travel Grenada
Down Island Real Estate Carriacou
Doyle Offshore Sails Barbados
Doyle Offshore Sails Tortola
Doyle's Guides USA
Echo Marine Jotun Special Trinidad
Errol Flynn Marina Jamaica
First Mate Trinidad
Flamboyant Beachside Terrace Grenada
Flamboyant Owl Bar Grenada
Flying Fish Ventures Grenada
Food Fair Grenada
Grenada Marine Grenada
Grenadines Sails Bequia
Horizon Yacht Management Tortola
lolaire Enterprises UK
Island Dreams Grenada
USA 42 Island Water World
Lagoon Marina Hotel
Latitudes & Attitudes
Maranne's Ice Cream
Maritime Yacht Sales
Mclntyre Bros Ltd
Mid Atanbc Yacht Services
Northern Lights Generators
Peake Yacht Brokerage
Pebt St Vincent
Ponton du Bakoua
Santa Barbara Resorts
Sint Maarten 48 Simpson Bay Marina
St Lucia 29
St Crolx 6
St Vincent 6
St Vincent 27
St Thomas 41
St Maarten 21
Soper's Hole Marina
Spice Island Marine
St Thomas Yacht Sales
Thomas Peake & Sons
Tikal Arts & Crafts
Trade Winds Cruising
True Blue Bay
Tyrrel Bay Yacht Haulout
Virgin Gorda Yacht Harbour
Yacht Insurance Guide
In Defence of
by Nigel Harrison
Now then, Compass, and Angelika Gruener, I'm
afraid I am going to have to pull you up. Remember
this? "When there is work to do... there is never any
one coming along to ask if he can help you... these
people always creep lazily around the marinas looking
for boats that are all ready to go to sea." It was in
June's Compass, and it referred to people looking for
a passage on a boat.
I don't debate for a second that "Mike", specifically,
is a lazy little do-nothing. I would be angry too if he
turned up, hung around, did no work, ate everything,
and buggered off. (It's not like boatyards ring with the
sound of yachties turning down free grub, drinks,
etcetera, themselves.) What I do debate, I'm afraid, is
a statement like the one above, tagged onto the end of
an article about one young person ,. 1i1 led us
across the chasm from "Mike" to i ... ne easy
sentence. This is what we call in English a sweeping
generalization, and is a disservice to the many boat
hitchers I have come across.
that's all you need to know about that. Happy days.
Are yachties so hard done by, is their workload so
hard, that they have no energy or time left to give a lit
tle to a complete -1 .. .. Ti. ... -i .tg how much
Mike would pay d .. I .-I. ... I ,. but shames
yachties, one and all.
What is suddenly -- -;- --ith hitchhiking? It's not a
-in -f laziness but I ,,,,,I .,I It's environmentally
i . 11 it's fun, you meet great people, make lifelong
r., .. 1 11. .... 1 1....1 in ... i.i articlee
I .. ... i II or a I l "
S1 1 ... ... .i .. i course you take a risk,
... I. ... i, ... . .. i they are taking a risk
too. The chances are that you will have with you
someone, probably young, who is smart, keen, strong,
fit, and if not already experienced, then very quick to
learn. Probability says they will be all this. They have
shown the initiative by looking round the marina, by
putting out their thumb. Being young, they are flexi
ble and slim. They will be able to do all kinds of jobs
Are tyachties so hcrdc done btj
that thet hCae no energy or time left to give
a little to a complete stranger?
Sweeping generalizations are fun and easy to write,
even easier to remember, and invariably wrong. They
can be used to all kinds of effects, to discredit, to
shame, to hurt, even when they are made accidentally.
Now I have never, to my knowledge, crept lazily
round a marina looking for a ride on a boat, but I have
helped lots of folk out on their boats, sometimes for
cash, sometimes for "mate's rates", sometimes for free.
When I spent a year working nearly every day on my
boat in Cornwall, I helped all the other boatowners in
the yard on their projects and they helped me with
mine. Besides this swapping of skills and labour I was
helped by an army of friends who didn't have a boat,
and didn't have any interest in going out on mine. This
army was often supplemented by passers-by, for
example a welder walking down the road who saw me
battling with an upside-down weld and a weak M.I.G.
welder and who jumped over the wall and popped the
plate on. It took him an hour or so and he wouldn't
even stop for a cup of tea as his lunch break was over.
These friends were all kinds and of all ages, from the
student midwife who helped paint for three or four
evenings, to the inventor of a certain windvane steer
ing kit who made me some shims for my engine
mounts. Now what can we make of that? I would like
to propose a sweeping generalization of my own:
"Nearly everyone is nice and very helpful and they
don't want anything in return."
Could it be that the fault is sometimes not with the
passage-seekers, but with the boatowners? If no one is
offering to help you that seems, given our experiences,
a little strange. It is surely human nature to help
someone you see struggling with a job. Is it true, this
one hour's sailing for one hour's work"? Surely not.
We depend on human kindness in small ways every
day. II 1...ii ii .... ... i to Canada with two
huge I ..- I i.,, ...i . .. I hitched all over the
world with those two damn bags. (And once through
Ireland with an outboard motor.) No-one has ever said
to me, "I'll take you one hour towards Yosemite, if you
- th.; th- oil". They were more likely to offer me a
1.. i night and some food. In Ireland with the
outboard, we were taken to a pub and fed, and anoth
er gu- ; -: bottle of poteen. In Switzerland two
girls \ "i .... to stay in a hotel for the night -and
that the more, er, generously built, may have trouble
with, for example getting round the back i. ...
or getting something out of the back i ""
berth. They will certainly look a lot better in a bosun's
chair. I have never had anyone on my boat, who, given
proper, clear direction, did not make themselves very
useful. And they were all fun to have aboard.
It is noticeable that the original "Mike" came from
internetland. Is it wise to ma!-- -rr;.i---i';t' with
someone you have met only in I -I *i ourse
the vast majority of internet hitchers (that's exactly
what they are) are great, but 'r -li.n t"-rin. over the
ether does not compare with . I I meeting.
These days anyone can get to a computer and put out
their virtual thumb, but it takes a big effort to get out
to where the boats are and look around. We met a guy
in the Canaries who was entirely broke, l1-- ri-. in a
car park and looking for a lift home. We 11 I I get
him to the Caribbean, but he decided to hold out for
the States, his home. I would bet my boat he was a
I think that -'inr things like "they creep around
lazily" on the I I an article about the behaviour of
one young person does a lot of harm. It is the respon
sibility of the writer to look well to each word, and
think of the consequences for others of what we say. It
is so easy to place obstacles in the way of people who
deserve quite the reverse. "If you haven't got anything
good to say, don't say anything at all", as they say in
Yorkshire, is not true. If we find something to be a
problem, we should let others know, but in context,
not as a "one statement covers all" message.
For God's sake, all these kids are doing is hitchhik
ing -and what's wrong with that? It's a mode of trav
el that has been killed off on land by fear and selfish
ness and a "should've tried harder at school" attitude.
Let's not kill it off at sea. Boating seems complex and
expensive to a young non-boater. We should all take
the chance, whenever we can, to introduce folk to our
wonderful, blessed lifestyle. Please, next time someone
asks, give it your consideration. Have a pint and mull
it over. Have a pint with them. None of this "one hour
work, one hour sail" crap.
Nigel Harrison is cruising the Caribbean aboard
I have been in the insurance business
40 years, 36 with Lloyds, and my claims
settlement record cannot be beat.
Fax DM Street
Iolaire Enterprises (353) 28 33927
or e-mail: email@example.com
Yacht Owner's Guide
To Marine Insurance
by Guy Matthews
Practical information on the proper way to insure a yacht
and how to navigate through the marine insurance system
in the event of a claim.
US$19.95 plus US$6.00 postage and handling
in the US and Canada
US Checks, Visa and Mastercard accepted
Quite Nice Publications
PO Box 1627
George West, TX, 78022, USA
Pleas Supor Thm
PT-9900-144 HORTA / FAIAL
TEL +351 292 391616
FAX +351 292 391656
Providing all vital
Services & Repairs
for Trans-Atlantic Yachts
Electronics, Chandlery, Rigging
Bunkered Fuel (+10,0001t)
EU-VAT (15%) Importation
Emancipation Day. Public holiday in Barbados,
St. Vincent & the Grenadines, and Trinidad & Tobago
Carriacou Children's Education Fund Potluck Barbecue,
Carriacou Yacht Club. firstname.lastname@example.org
Carriacou Regatta Festival. Yacht and workboat races.
BVI August Festival. www.bvitourism.com/BVIFestival/
Carriacou Children's Education Fund Auction. email@example.com
CSA Caribbean Dinghy Championship, St. Croix, www.stcroixyc.com
Public holiday in many islands: August Bank Holiday;
Emancipation Day; Kadooment Day in Barbados;
Independence Day in Jamaica
Antigua Carnival. Public holiday in Antigua
Culturama in St. Ktts
August Thursday, public holiday in Anguilla
Constitution Day. Public holiday in Anguilla
Fete du Vent Regatta, Lorient, St. Barts
Grenada Carnival 'Spicemas'. Public holiday in Grenada
Feast of the Assumption. Public holiday in French West Indies
Restoration Day. Public holiday in Dominican Republic
54th San Juan International Billfish Tournament, Puerto Rico.
Windward Cup Regatta, Carriacou. See ad on page 16.
Festival of St. Barthelemy, Gustavia, St. Barts. Boat races
St. Louis Festival, Corossol, St. Barts. Fishing contests, boat races
Carib Great Race (powerboats) Trinidad to Tobago
Independence Day. Public holiday in Trinidad.
Dragonboat Regatta at Kayak Centre, Chaguaramas
3 Labor Day. Public holiday in Puerto Rico and USVI
5 Bonaire Flag Day. Public holiday in Bonaire; boat races
B Virgin of the Valley Festival, Venezuela. Religious boat parades
15 International Coastal Cleanup Day. Coastal Cleanups in many islands,
plus Underwater Cleanup, Bonaire (www.dive-friends-bonaire.com)
17 National Heroes day, Public holiday in St. Ktts & Nevis
19 Independence Day. Public holiday in St. Kitts & Nevis
24 Republic Day. Public holiday in Trinidad & Tobago
26 FULL MOON
[BA 24th Annual International Blue Marlin Tournament, Havana, Cuba. CNIH
All information was correct to the best of our knowledge
at the time this issue of Compass went to press but plans change,
so please contact event organizers directly for confirmation,
If you would like a nautical or tourism event listed FREE in our calendar,
please send the name and date(s) of the event
and the name and contact information of the organizing body to
i: :-,i |:::I :'i .-1 .., :ir :i comprehensive, informative, and lively view of the
Lesser Antilles and its people. To account for the change that took place in the
islands as they were rapidly developed, Mitchell revised the book after making a
third voyage up the islands in 1970 in his 42-foot trawler yacht Sans Terre."
In a 1986 autobiographical article for Yachting magazine, Carleton Mitchell wrote:
"Somewhere around ten, when asked what I wanted to do when I grew up, my
mother has said I answered, 'I want to sail and write about it."
Well-known Windward Islands yachtsman Lester Rapier died in St. Lucia last month.
He was in his mid-70s. Born in Grenada, Lester was an active racing sailor. After mov-
ing to St. Lucia, he sailed his yacht Aegis regularly in the St. Lucia Yacht Club's off-
shore events, winning many of them through the years. He was also a frequent com-
petitor at the Bequia Easter Regatta and other regional sailing events. Lester was
remembered at a church service in St. Lucia on July 19th.
Customs and Immigration Kudos
In our most recent Readers' Survey, Caribbean Compass readers named Customs
and Immigration officers on duty in Bequia as "Most Courteous and Efficient" in the
BE lla NuEEHl E ofmFICE
Compass editor Sally Erdle (at left) congratulates Customs officers Jomo Alexis and
Patrick Hutchins, representing all SVG Customs and Immigration personnel at
Bequia, as Compass Publishing Ltd's Managing Director Tom Hopman presents
a 2007 Readers' Survey Award certificate
Caribbean. Coming a very close second were the Customs and Immigration officers
on duty in Martinique. Thanks to readers who participated in the survey, and many
congratulations and felicitations to the Customs and Immigration officers in Bequia
and Martinique. Both locations were also voted "Most Courteous and Efficient" in
our previous Readers' Surveys. Keep up the good work!
Save the Weather Broadcasts!
Teri Rothbauer reports: Do this now! The US National Weather Service currently pro-
vides marine radio broadcasts of weather forecasts and warnings via US Coast
Guard high seas communication stations such as NMN and NMG. The Coast Guard
says the broadcasting equipment has exceeded its life expectancy and is no longer
manufactured. Repairs are difficult to accomplish and spare parts generally are not
available. (Sounds similar to grumbles heard in many a cockpit!)
The Coast Guard needs information on the extent to which these weather broad-
casts are used and what alternative services are being used. Please send your opin-
ion on the value of the forecasts and the need for the Coast Guard to invest in new
equipment to continue their broadcasts as one of its core missions to safeguard
mariners via the website http://dms.dot.gov. Use Docket ID number USCG-2007-
27656. Comments must be sent by August 24.
The newly-launched site MyBoatsGear.com aims to be a one-stop boating-gear
resource for boat owners. Created by former boatbuilder and broker Mike Hobson,
MyBoatsGear.com is set up as a "how-to guide" with gear organized into 20 cate-
gories such as above-deck, electronics, safety and navigation, Mike says, "I wanted
to take my knowledge from 30 years in the marine business with boat gear and put
it all into one spot, as a resource, for anyone to use."
Trinidad's Marine Trades Show for October
The range of marine services and supplies offered in Chaguaramas, Trinidad, will be on
display at the Yacht Services Association of Trinidad & Tobago (YSATT) 5th Marine
Trades Show on October 13th at Sweet Water Marina, Chaguaramas, from 11:00AM to
5:00PM. This show brings together manufacturers, distributors, suppliers, contractors and
buyers through a combination of exhibits, one-on-one meetings and product demon-
strations. It is the only show of its type in the southern Caribbean. Entrance is free.
The following companies have already signed up: 3M Marine Division, Echo Marine,
T&T Marine Electrical, Nau-T-Kol Refrigeration, All Marine Services, Dynamite Marine,
Boaters' Shop, Peake's Chandlery, Marc One Marine Supplies, Ace Sails & Canvas
Ltd., Budget Marine Trinidad, IMT Offshore (Dominica), Trintrac Limited, Associated
Marine Design/ Fretworks Ltd., Republic Bank, Trump Tours, Apadoca's Duty Free,
Boaters' Enterprise, Dockyard Electric, Goodwood Marine, Members Only Taxi
Service, Dominica Marine Center, West Coast Fabricators, Calypso Marine Canvas,
L.P Marine & Industrial Supplies, and The Mariner's Office.
Last year 30 companies exhibited with nearly $250,000 in business being transacted
on the day with an additional $500,000 in quotations being requested.
One of the show's highlights will be product demonstrations and lectures on topics
including SailMail, TRAC Products, Stone Cold Marine Refrigeration Units, Sanding
and Polishing Systems and Usage, and Caribbean Weather, to be held in the Upper
Level of The Lure Seafood Grill and Bar.
"For an industry that is only 12 years old, we can boast some incredible milestones,"
says Jane Peake, Past-President of YSATT. "The (yacht service industry in Trinidad)
employs more than 1,500 workers, contributes TT$125 million to the GDP with over
TT$160 million in private sector investment."
For more information contact YSATT Secretariat at ysatt@tsttnet ft or (868) 634-4938.
The lower photo on page 23 of the July 2007 issue of Compass should have been
credited to Marcie Connelly-Lynn.
The Caribbean Marine Association
CAEBBEAN MARWt A5eOWIAION
yachting industry within the Caribbean Basin. Its aims are:
To compile and share experience, ideas and information, and to improve international communications
between all members and other related organizations.
To encourage all within the yachting industry to adopt best practices and standards that are designed to
preserve, protect and enhance the quality of the Caribbean waters, the Caribbean environment and
the nautical tourism experience.
To offer non-political advice and assist all Caribbean governments, regional tourism organizations and other
NGOs on policies and challenges which influence the yachting industry.
Current CMA Members
* A Full Member is a Marine Trades Association of a Caribbean Country
ANTIGUA & BARBUDA MARINE ASSOCIATION (ABMA)
Nelson's Dockyard, English Harbour, Antigua
Tel/Fax: (268) 460-1122
MARINE & YACHTING ASSOCIATION OF GRENADA (MAYAG)
PO Box 679, St. George's, Grenada
Tel: (473) 443-1667, Fax: (473) 443-1668
MARINE ASSOCIATION OF THE BRITISH VIRGIN ISLANDS (MABVI)
PO Box 3042, Road Town, Tortola, British Virgin Islands
Tel: (284) 494-2751, Fax: (284) 494-5166
YACHT SERVICES ASSOCIATION OF TRINIDAD & TOBAGO (YSATT)
CrewsInn Hotel & Yachting Centre, Chaguaramas, Trinidad
Tel: (868) 634-4938, Fax: (868) 634-2160
MARINE INDUSTRIES ASSOCIATION OF ST. LUCIA (MIASL) INC.
PO Box GM 614 Castries, St.Lucia
Tel: (758) 452-2300; 484-3646, (M); (758) 453-0219
ST. VINCENT & THE GRENADINES RECREATIONAL MARINE ASSN.
PO Box 2434, Kingstown, St. Vincent & the Grenadines
Tel: (784) 456-9608, Fax: (784) 456-9917
ST. MAARTEN MARINE TRADES ASSOCIATION (SMMTA)
Airport Road #. ..... St. Maarten, Netherland Antilles
Tel: (599) 545-._',, 545-2501
* An Associate Member is an individual marine related business within the Caribbean
All At Sea
Kennan Holdings, LLC
PO Box 7277, St. Thomas, USVI 00801
Tel: (443) 321-3797, Fax: (340) 715-2827
Compass i i i I i i
PO Box : I I ".. St. Vincent & the Grenadines
Tel: (784) 457-3409, Fax: (784) 457-3410
Peake Yacht Services
Lot 5 Western Main Road, Chaguaramas, Trinidad
Tel: (868) 634-4420/4427, Fax: (868) 634-4387
Port du Marin
Boulevard Allegre, 97290 Le Marin Martinique, FWI
Tel: 596 (0)596 74 83 83, Fax: 596 (0)596 74 92 20
Power Boats Mutual Facilities Ltd.
Western Main Road, Chaguaramas, Trinidad
Tel: (868) 634-4303, Fax: (868) 634-4327
Have been invited by the board of directors to be a member of the association, due
to the contributions they have given to the industry.
Specialist in Yachting & Disaster Preparedness for the Caribbean Region
20 Collens Road, Fairways, Maraval, Trinidad & Tobago
Tel: (868) 724-6997
Current Board of Directors
Keats Compton President (MIASL representative)
Sam Welch Vice President (MABVI representative)
Donald Stollmeyer Secretary/ Treasurer (YSATT representative)
George Clarke Director (ABMA representative)
Justin Evans Director (MAYAG) representative
at Isan Wae Wol 0ugu0
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What's on Sale
SKIS, WAKEBOACD, KNEEBOADS AND
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HG20603 .3 g.
HG20610 10 k
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*Discounts l.d owr Augu 2007 while siok bs
WtE CRW S MRINE WSTR
w AX.i "r bn'm Ia wmo* abou- T n WhQ4Ta ny Authorized dealer of ElURUlF .
I FRUF usinkabl boaf? Visft Famd MAwler tMarid ..-
St. Thomas, IS.V.I. St. Maorten, NJA St. Maarten, NA. St. Ludo, Wi. Grenada, LI. Grenada, WI.
Yacht Haven Grmnd Cole Bay Bobby's Marina Rodney Bay Marina St. George's Grenada Marine
Tel: 340.714 0404 Tel: 599.544.5310 Tel: 599.543.7119 Tel- 758 452 1222 Tel: 473.435 2150 Tel: 473.443.1028
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Prices may vory In St. Thomas, St. Lucia and Grenada s a result of customs charges and environmental levles.
I s -Zla ,'d W tr. W rdlr't Mair'ine Distri butors *~- 1 w.wuwi_- Isla n.lit- r'. r ld J ce r. [1, sales(r' "]I .Tis nl at'e r.''''''... o.tr' ld ,,c-T