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Caribbean Requests Extended US Passport Reprieve
In January of this year, the United States State Department's requirement for all US
citizens to have passports in order to return from (and thus in effect, travel to) the
Caribbean and other neighboring areas by air went into effect. On June 8th it was
announced that, due to inability of passport centers to cope with the resultant
flood of applications, this requirement has been suspended through the end of
September. During this time, US citizens can return home if they show a receipt
proving that they have applied for a passport.
As Tony Best explained in the June 19 th issue of the Barbados Nation newspaper:
"Overwhelmed by the flood of applications for passports from United States citizens
planning to travel to the Caribbean, Canada, Bermuda and Medco, the United
States State Department, which issues passports, has decided to suspend the (require-
ment) for passports.... Before the rush for passports... it took about six weeks to
receive the travel document. Now the waiting time can be as long as three months."
According to a June 17th report in USA Today, "thousands of people awaiting pass-
ports were canceling vacations or losing money on non-refundable tickets."
As this issue of Compass goes to press, the Caribbean Tourism Association (CTO),
which represents 32 Caribbean countries, is lobbying the US Congress to extend the
passport-requirement waiver until 2009. According to the CTO's chairman, Allen
Chastenet, who is also St. Lucia's Minister of Tourism, "The evidence is now over-
whelming that tourism and commerce in the Caribbean have suffered considerably
as a result of the Western Hemisphere Travel Initiative passport rule."
Crime Hinders Caribbean Development
According to a recent report, jointly prepared by the World Bank and the United Nations
Office on Drugs and Crime, violent crime caused by the trafficking of Colombian
cocaine through this region to Europe and the United States is severely affecting the
Caribbean's potential economic growth. The report called on the region to modernize
police forces, improve crime statistics, and invest in crime-reduction programs. The report
added, however, that signs were that the flow of narcotics through the Caribbean is
diminishing as Medcan cartels take over from Colombian organizations in distributing
drugs in the United States and shift trafficking routes to Central America.
There's Good News, But Stay Alert
The Caribbean Safety and Security Net, which broadcasts daily on single-sideband radio
frequency 8104 at 1215UTC (0815 hours local time) collects first-hand reports of crimes
against yachts in the Caribbean. These are posted at www.safetyandsecuritynet.com.
The Caribbean Safety and Security Net is primarily an interactive radio network of
cruising yachts which meets for the purpose of exchanging information about safe-
ty and security concerns while cruising in the Eastern Caribbean. Its main purpose
has always been to report and log incidents of crime against yachts, so that sailors
in the Eastern Caribbean can make intelligent decisions about where to visit and
how to behave while there.
While the reporting and logging of cruiser-related incidents is still a large part of Net
activities, the Net has expanded into much more. Most people who listen and/or
contribute, see the Net as an information exchange and as a place to turn when
there are questions or concerns about some part of this cruising life.
In addition to reporting and logging incidents, the Net provides a relay on emer-
gency and priority messages from friends and family, boat watches for vessels miss-
ing or overdue, warnings of navigational hazards both natural and manmade,
sources for medical services, and, as time allows, information on a variety of other
topics, such as customs and immigration procedures and fees, other nets, sources
of weather information, etcetera.
Net controller Melodye Pompa reports that so far this year, fewer than half the num-
ber of crime reports have been made to the Net as compared to the same period
in both 2005 and 2006. She notes that, in addition, far fewer reports were made of
burglary and incidents involving weapons. However, she reminds us, "Let's not let
our guard down. As soon as boats in Margarita stopped lifting and locking their
dinghies at night, there was a string of dinghy thefts. Always lock the dinghy to the
boat and to the dinghy dock, always lock the boat when you leave it."
Visit www.safetyandsecuritynet.com for additional tips on how to stay safe.
-Continued on next page
i i ii
Join our growing list of
I on-line subscribers!
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Cover Photo Tim Wright: WOMEN AT THE HELM
Marsha Farfan at the Helm of Business Machine
The Caribbean's Monthly Look at Sea & Shore
Swell holds hostages .............22
29th round the island race.... 10
His Hurricane Hints
Brad's Annual Reminder ........18
Cruisers get Irie welcome.......20
How Sweet It Is
Summer on the Rio Dulce .....30
Would you let them steer?.....34
Street Talk............................. 24
Meridian Passage ...............33
Sailors' Horoscope .............36
Island Poets ..........................36
Cruising Crossword ...............37
r -, ,. . I .
Tel: (784) 457 3409, Fax: (784) 457-3410,
Editor........................................... Sally Erdle
Assistant Editor...................Elaine Ollivierre
Advertising & Distribution........Tom Hopman
Art, Design & Production......Wilfred Dederer
Accounting ............................Debra Davis
Compass Agents by Island:
. ... ... .i i.
A l i
, . . ., L h , .
Cruising Kids' Corner ............38
Dolly's Deep Secrets.............38
Book Reviews .....................39
Cooking with Cruisers...........46
Readers' Forum ..................48
Advertisers' Index ................52
v Ti i iI:.i .v: T. i.1.- ..
ii,,,.Ai ii, I
i.-.; i 1 1 11 J11
ISSN 1605 1998
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Continuedfrom previous page
St. Kitts Minister Heads Global Sustainable Use Body
In the wake of the 59th meeting of the International Whaling Commission, held in
May, St. Ktts and Nevis' Minister of Agriculture and Fisheries, Hon. Cedric Liburd, is
spearheading the formation of a new global body committed to the principle of
the sustainable use of the world's marine resources. Minister Liburd stated, "By sus-
tainable use we are talking about preventing any depletion of our marine resources
while encouraging their utilization in a responsible way, especially for food." While
some observers speculated that the new group is a Japanese-inspired front aimed
at the resumption of commercial whaling for food, Monaco's IWC delegate made
the point that consumption of whale meat could be dangerous due to its accumu-
lation of mercury, PCBs and other tons.
The recent IWC session re-authorized the exsting moratorium on commercial whal-
ing that has been in place since 1986. The current moratorium on commercial whal-
ing does not affect aboriginal subsistence whaling and quotas were approved for
several countries. St. Vincent & the Grenadines, the only Caribbean nation actively
engaged in hunting large cetaceans, was once again given an annual quota of
four humpback whales.
Eight Bells: David Davis
Barbara Morgan reports: David Davis died on the 23rd of May 2007 at age 81, after
a fall in the kitchen of his new riverside home in Guyana. This is a sad loss to his wife,
Joyce, and the cruising community which remembers him as radio net controller in
Trinidad for many years. He will also be missed throughout the Caribbean for the
many jazz concerts that he and Joyce hosted. The name of their band, Mood
Indigo, was their signature tune as well as the name of the boat they cruised in the
Caribbean since 1993.
Though David had surgery for a debilitating back problem, when he took the stage
ten to 15 years dropped away from his age. His eyes sparkled, his fingers clicked to
the beat, and this is where he really enjoyed himself. Joyce and David were the
permanent band members; Mood Indigo's beauty lay in the fact that they invited
a __ M
other cruisers and Trinidadian
musicians to accompany them.
Since Mood Indigo played jaz
mostly from the 1930s, they were
welcome everywhere in the
islands as virtually no other band
played music from this period. A
local bassist had to be coached
by David to play this kind of jazz,
as have many others who are
unfamiliar with jazz from that era.
Encouraging locals and cruisers to
join them on stage brought spec-
tacular results. The internationally
known Trinidadian guitarist,
Michael Boothman, hosted gigs in
his garden oftentimes accompa-
nied by Trini drummer, Winston
Mathew, and Greg from the
yacht Four Winds on harmonica.
Tony Gregory sometimes played
his double bass, an instrument he
keeps on his 32-foot sailboat!
Russell, another Trini, would slip in
anytime and jam with his bass gui-
tar. This is just a sample of the many musicians who joined David and Joyce on stage.
Although you might be forgiven for thinking that David had played jaz for a living
before he retired, you could not be more wrong. David had an exciting career in
radio and in the early days of PBS television. He was in the forefront of setting up the
Boston Pops orchestra and the American Playhouse. David was also responsible for
taking Sesame Street to Israel.
David and Joyce retired in 1993 and bought the boat Mood Indigo in the BVI. They
did not know much about reefing sails on a passage to St. Martin, but soon learned
that reefing in 45 knots of wind and 12-foot seas is a jolly good idea! However, as
with everything Joyce and David did, they learned fast and sailed as far west as
Curagao, playing and singing all the way.
Their first concert was in Grenada where a hundred cruisers and four guests from
Secret Harbour resort attended the gig. They were an instant success. Although
most of us feel David and Joyce were always in Trinidad, they had in fact been
invited to perform all over the Caribbean. Marjorie, Michael Boothman's mother, .
Continued on next page
. . . page
i-: :I l i.-i.. 1:1:, :0' 'i.- US embassy in Trinidad, she then invited them to play at
Coconut Village. They also were invited to give a performance at the former
Schooners bar and restaurant in Bequia.
In Trinidad, David coached orphans at St. Dominic's to read music. He soon learned
that many of the children had an uncanny ear for music play it once and they
could play it back note for note so teaching them to read music was a bit of a
slog. David had a trumpet donated for a star student so that when he left St.
Dominic's he could join the Police Band.
In early 2005, David and Joyce were ready to move on to the next stage of their life
plan: building a house, way out in the wilds of Guyana, 60 miles down river from
Bartica. They anchored Mood Indigo within sight of their new house for many
months while the work was in progress. They purchased a pirogue to visit the local
town for supplies. Joyce often referred to their house as David's retirement home.
David enjoyed the peace and tranquillity that his new home provided, and adven-
turous cruising friends have visited them to see them in their new abode.
David will be making Jazz in heaven, I am sure.
Condolences can be sent to symoodindigo@yahoo. com.
Eight Bells: Charlie Cary
Charlie Cary, the founder of The Moorings yacht charter company, passed away on
June 14th in Vero Beach, Florida, at age 89.
Charlie and his wife Ginny founded The Moorings on July 4th, 1969, in the British
Virgin Islands with six 35-foot Pearson yachts. The company grew to over 850 yachts
operating in over 20 countries worldwide.
Charlie earned a degree in industrial engineering from the University of Maryland,
completed his graduate work at the Harvard Business School, and joined the US Navy
in 1943. By this time he had married his junior high sweetheart, Ginny, who accompa-
nied him when they deployed to Bermuda. For recreation, they started sailing.
After discharge from the Navy, a successful corporate career, and ownership of
boats ranging from a 28-foot Gulf one-design to an Alberg 35, "we decided to look
into making our hobby our vocation" and the Carys sailed to the Caribbean on
their 44-foot yawl with the intent of opening a charter business.
Over the next decade Charlie collaborated with Florida yacht builders such as
Charlie Morgan of Morgan yachts and Vince Lazarra of Gulfstar yachts, and in the
1980s with the French company Beneteau, to produce the optimum charter yachts.
The company purchased a prime piece of waterfront property in Tortola's Road
Harbour which remains the flagship base for The Moorings.
First Maltese to Sail Antigua to Horta
On May 14th, 31-year-old solo sailor Eleandro Buhagiar set sail from Antigua aboard
his 37-foot sloop in an attempt to become the first Maltese to sail from the
Caribbean to Malta. He hasn't reached home yet, but he did become the first
Maltese to sail across the Atlantic single-handed when he successfully reached
Horta in the Azores 20 days after leaving Antigua.
Unfortunately, an accident has delayed part of his ambition. Joanna Ripard report-
ed in the June 17th issue of the Times of Malta: "After three days in Horta braving
gale-force winds and 'trying to keep Mahina in one piece', the 1975 Swedish-built
yacht was rammed by a French catamaran, causing her considerable damage."
Eleandro, who spent his five years in the Caribbean working on crewed yachts, rac-
ing in major regattas and refitting Mahina, plans to carry on to Malta when repairs
have been made.
Happy Birthday, Friendship Rose
On June 6th, Bequia's iconic island schooner, the Friendship Rose, celebrated 40
years since her launching with a celebratory sail from her usual berth in Admiralty Bay
to Friendship Bay, where she was built. Speeches were made by Jacqui English of the
Captain Lewis, center, and the Friendship Rose crew celebrating the schooner's 40th
St. Vincent & the Grenadines Ministry of Tourism; Deputy Director of Grenadines Affairs
Herman Belmar; and Captain Calvin Lewis, who has been at the helm of the Friendship
Rose since her launching. A toast was also made to Meg and Alan Whittaker, who pur-
chased the Rose from her original owners a few years ago and have helped make a
day trip on this classic West Indian vessel a favorite activity for visitors.
On return to Admiralty Bay, the Friendship Rose crew hosted an open house for
many more well-wishers. Happy birthday, Friendship Rose we wish you many more!
Boat Watch Net Update
Melodye Pompa reports: Mike Pilgrim has turned the Boat Watch Net over to the folks at
ShipCom, who run the WLO public coast station. The Boatwatch Net website, www.boat-
watchnet.org, has been updated so that reports filed there will go to firstname.lastname@example.org.
The site states that other e-mails or inquiries should go to the same address.
Continued on next page
WELCOME TO THE NEW WORLD OF TBT-FREE ANTIFOULINGS!
Jotun SeaQueen offers the BEST in tin free self polishing onlyAntifoulings and replaces the famous
Seamate HB 99 at the same competitive price. Various Tests in the extreme fouling conditions of the Caribbean have
confirmed its excellent value.
Jotun SeaQuantum represents the ULTIMATE development in hydrolysing but tin free
Antifouling paints, exceeding the self-polishing, self-smoothing and predictable Antifouling performance previously
only found in the now completely banned TBT paints. SeaQuantum is the result of 8 years of combined research of
Jotun Paints and the Chemical Giants Nippon and BASF. This bottom paint is the industry's state of the art solution
for an environmentally acceptable paint of highest performance standards.
SeaQuantum is manufactured worldwide in 34 factories.
Several tests on sailboats over the past 18 months have shown better results than
the repeated test winner and #1 choice of Caribbean cruisers, Jotun Seamate HB 99.
"SeaQuantum is most probably the world's best self-smoothing, self-
polishing Antifoulina and a truly multi-seasonal bottom paint."
Technical Information and Dealer Inquiries:
Jotun Echo Marine Trinidad Tel: + 868- 634-2015 e-mail: email@example.com
.. ... 1 .... I . page
CHART CORRECTIONS: As we all know, Don Street has spent the last half century sail-
ing in and writing about the Eastern Caribbean. Don, who is associated with Imray,
Laurie, Norie and Wilson in producing the Imray-lolaire yachting charts for the
Caribbean Sea, tells Compass that he has recently taken it upon himself to go
through all the British Admiralty charts (both big ship and leisure) and list any errors
he found. This informal list (typos and all) can be found at www.street-iolaire.com.
MARINAMAPS: Drawing sailing trips on a satellite map or calculating distances
between marinas can now be done on the internet. The sailing portal www.mori-
nomap.com, which enables marinas all over the world to be found by mouse click on
a world chart, has implemented a functionality to combine several marina locations
into individual nautical routes. For each route the total distance, the distances
between the marinas and a graphic image based on Google Maps is displayed.
After free registration, users can save their routes permanently on
TIME FLIES: Last month marked 40 years since man first went windsurfing. Visit
WHAT'S UP, DOCK? White Bay on Jost Van Dyke in the BVI is famous for the Soggy
Dollar Bar, so named because the way to get to the beach from your boat is to
swim. A group of concerned boaters and residents of the BVI say that a proposal to
build a dock at White Bay to facilitate access by cruise ship passengers is bad news:
"Most days, there isn't enough electricity, water and sewage treatment to take
care of the local population much less any tourists. If hundreds more a day were
added to the mix, you can imagine the dire consequences." A petition against the
dock, intended for presentation to the Chief Minister, can be found
DONNA'S NEXT ADVENTURE: Donna Lange spent 300 days sailing alone round the
world, logging 31,400 nautical miles in her 28-foot Southern Cross sloop, Inspired
Insanity, She now plans to commit much of her time to the protection of our oceans,
having joined up with other environmentalists to form Oceanswatch. One of the
group's goals is to strengthen and support communications between the global
yachting community and those who are actively involved in marine research, edu-
cation and conservation in order to promote the role of yachtsmen and their vessels
in marine environmental projects. Oceanswatch is envisioned as a practical organi-
zation that plans to use sailing vessels and skilled yachtsmen to take researchers, film-
makers and humanitarian relief workers to needy coastal communities and to the
endangered marine ecosystems on our planet. Offering an environmentally friendly
and cost-effective means to study both vulnerable and pristine marine habitats, the
programme will underscore the impact of global warming, pollution and unsustain-
able management on these systems. For more information visit
Perceptive readers of the Island Water World ad on page 56 of the June issue of
Compass may have noticed an unusual new product: jackets that "offer extra ben-
efits that will keep you dry and pitch-poling". The mind boggles. Fortunately, such a
product does not exist the wording was the work of our resident printers' devils.
The Burke's Super Dry 3/4 length jackets actually offer extra benefits that will keep
you dry and comfortable.
They are, of course, available at Island Water World.
Ahoy, Christophe on Concerto!
Christophe Fareud of the French-flagged S/Y Concerto, or anyone knowing his where-
abouts, please contact Sharon at tel (868) 635-4938 or firstname.lastname@example.org. Thank you.
Register Now for Antigua Show
Registration is now open for the 46th Annual Antigua Charter Yacht Show, to be
held December 5th through 10th, 2007.
For more information visit www aniiguayachtshow.com, or contact Afsaneh or
Sarah at tel (268) 460-1059, fax (268) 460-1784 or info@anfiguayachtshow com.
Who says cruisers are cheap? The following Compass writers have donated the pro-
ceeds from recent articles to worthy local causes: Barbara Sparks, Clayton Lewis
and Jack Foard to St. Benedict's Infant Hospital in St. Vincent; Mike Beaumont to
Bequia's Sunshine School for Children with Special Needs; Ciarla Decker to the
Marine Education and Research (MER) Centre in Bequia; Becky Jones to the
Buccament Government School library in St. Vincent; Keith Smith to Mariann
Palmborg's animal welfare project in Bequia; John and Melodye Pompa to the
Carriacou Children's Educational Fund (CCEF) in Carriacou; Hans Baer to the
Governor General's Children's Fund in St. Vincent; Heather Bacon to the Woburn
R.C Infant and Pre-Primary School in Grenada; and John Rowland to the Bequia
Community High School Library.
Your generosity is appreciated!
Compass in Cyberspace
Great news for Compass readers on-line subscriptions to Caribbean Compass are
When you're not in the Caribbean, with an on-line subscription you'll be able to
read each complete monthly issue every page, with all articles, photos and
advertisements including the classified at home, at work (we assume marine-
related research is approved) or while traveling. On-line subscribers will enjoy the
complete Compass promptly every month while "back home" without anxiously
waiting for the postman to arrive! The entire on-line issue is downloadable and each
individual page is printable, for those articles you want to file or share with friends
Check it out! Tell your friends!
For full details on getting an on-line subscription to Compass, visit wwwcaribbean-
In this issue of Compass we welcome new advertiser Horizon Yacht Management of
Antigua, Grenada and St. Martin, page 15. Good to have you with us!
A banana daiquiri without a Northern Lights generator.
Marine Generators I www.northern-lights.com
Dockwise Yacht Transport Christens Supership
On May 24th, Dockwise Yacht Transport (DYT), the world's only float-on/float-off
yacht transport service, christened its newest ship, the 687-foot (209 metre) Yacht
Express at the Yantai Raffles Shipyard, located at Yantai, Province of Shandong in
China. The largest vessel of its kind in the world, Yacht Express has been purpose-
built with a semi-submersible dock bay that allows yachts of any size to be safely
floated on and off as cargo. The process is unique to DYT, which also operates four
other semi-submersible yacht carriers.
ucatt strppuity 5s oty 0U-SleSS, -i1 wt trL iLt U rITI uLy tLLJSt yO DLyyeCI
Yantai Raffles Shipyard began construction of the supership in 2005. "Yacht Express
is more than 130 feet longer than our largest carrier," said DYT President and CEO
Clemens van der Werf. "It marks a major milestone in the development of the
yacht transport industry, as it will not only accommodate more yachts on regularly
scheduled trips to and from Florida and the Mediterranean, but also will deliver
With a service speed of 18 knots, Yacht Express is expected to reduce the time of a
transatlantic voyage by nearly 50 percent from 15 to eight days. The ship also will
feature amenities such as complimentary cabins for ride-aboard crew, an atrium
with swimming pool, restaurant and cinema, as well as conference, media and fit-
DYT has partnered with the International SeaKeepers Society to outfit the new ship
with the modular SeaKeeper 1000 ocean and meteorological monitoring system. The
SeaKeeper 1000 is a fully automated unit that samples, measures, records and trans-
mits critical measures of ocean health salinity, temperature, oxygen and pollution,
among others to various scientific and public communities across the globe.
Following sea trials, Yacht Express will mobilize through Australia and New Zealand
and to Florida before making a special appearance at the Monaco Yacht Show in
September, where it will be re-christened and introduced to the yachting community.
Dockwise Yacht Transport offers service to and from the Caribbean from its
For more information, see ad on page 16.
Sailing Skills Training for All Levels
If reading the Compass makes you dream of cruising the islands, but you don't yet
know how to sail never fear! Offshore Sailing School makes it easy with a three-
day "Learn to Sail" course as the only pre-requisite for joining its Offshore Cruising
Club adventures and seeing the world under sail. For a limited time only, this 43-
year-old operation, which leads the field in sail and power training, is offering a 50-
percent discount for those who sign up for the Learn to Sail course and one of the
following two cruises at the same time: Croatia's Dalmatian Coast (August 10 to 19)
and BVI (November 4 to 11). The Learn To Sail course which is available in Florida,
on the Chesapeake and in the New York metro area must be taken at least
three weeks prior to the cruise start date. The November BVI cruise features a
Treasure Quest theme an island-to-island hunt for doubloons and fun prizes.
Packaged together with the half-price Learn to Sail course, the entire package
starts at US$1,795.50 per person.
Offshore Sailing School has been leading cruises for its graduates since 1972 when it
first located in the British Virgin Islands. "There were only a few boats in any harbor
then," says Doris Colgate, President and CEO, who led that cruise and at least 60
more all over the world with her husband Steve Colgate. "We were the innovators
in providing flotilla cruising vacations on sailboats back then" she continued.
Anyone can participate in the cruises who has taken at least the Learn to Sail course
at Offshore Sailing School. "Everyone aboard works together to sail the boat, under
the watchful eye of the cruise leader on a lead boat," explains Colgate. "We get
many people returning year after year, qualified now to assume the role of skipper.
The success of these adventures has been amazing, with couples who meet here
going on to cruise together, even singles marrying and pursuing the sailing lifestyle!"
Continuing their tradition of excellence in training at all levels, Offshore Sailing
School has recently announced that it has received recognition from the presti-
gious Royal Yachting Association (RYA) to provide three practical levels of RYA cer-
tification for recreational sailors. The RYA Sail Cruising and Yachtmaster@ Scheme,
with 2200 schools in its system, is the training standard for the United Kingdom,
Ireland, Scotland, New Zealand and Australia. Offshore Sailing School is one of just
three United States sailing schools now recognized by RYA to teach its courses.
"The RYA training system is considered to be the gold standard worldwide," says
Offshore's COO Doug Sparks. "It is a knowledge-based system that emphasizes...
Continued on page 44
kay, here's a scenario. You arrange to get some work done on your boat in
a sleepy Caribbean destination while you hop home to visit the grandkids.
You have the feeling that not much might be happening. You call the boat
yard and they assure you i .1 11...... .. schedule, but still there's a nagging
doubt. You have been dowi. 1, I- .11, I I , theyjust telling you what you want
to hear again? Wouldn't it be nice to have extra-sensory perception and to check that
there were actually bodies moving around your boat doing -.. ..
Or perhaps there has been a nasty storm in the vicinity i ... i. ..d yard. The
yard staff says all is well, but what about being able to take a peek for yourself?
Doesn't that appeal?
It does to me, at the same time it gives me the heebie-jeebies. I can hear the sci-fi
music; a sort of weird variation of pan pipes, colours change to pearlised metallics
and all the normal, e' I ii ... i ... ,.me are vaporised.
Do I want this sort I 1.1 i i .. ,I railable?
I am about to find out. And so are you. Because this facility is available in at least
one boatyard in the Caribbean and it will spread like the dawn of a new day.
Ram Marina in the Rio Dulce, Guatemala, has included the technology to enable
you to watch your boat from afar in the "state of the art", ecologically sound haul
out yard they are in the process of building. The facility is nestled incongruously on
a riverbank of rampant jungle vegetation, between picturesque marinas with
thatched roofs and wobbly wooden docks where boats wallow lazily in the dappled
shade and the click of dominos can be heard every afternoon. Locals paddle by in
dugouts and gaze at it from the water. Given the innal i..... of the indigenous
population, it is difficult to tell if they are impressed or . i
by Julia Bartlett
On a burning hot mid-morning a taxi dropped me off at the wrong place when I
visited Ram Marina, but there was a convenient hole in the concrete wall so I
squeezed through : .1 ..... ...i It seemed a more sensible option than walk
ing all the way roL t i I 11. II, i ,trance because by then I would have experi
enrpec tntal mltrlnnxm
Architect Jose Luis Donis points out the 'brains' of the latest thing
in marina technology long-range surveillance
Within seconds someone was walking over to greet me. My unorthodox entry had
been spotted on camera. It was an embarrassing way to start an interview, not
helped by the fact that I had heels and a skirt on -cooler than my other option,
which was jeans, but not the right kit for what is still, in places, a building site.
Once inside the yard the heat blistered me from below as well as above as it reflect
ed up from the pristine, white concrete slab. I swear that you could have easily
cooked a full meal on it, never mind an egg. But don't worry about that. Only the
yard workers have to suffer it because there will be a less expensive and less reflec
tive surface for the DIY boats. If a boat needed drying out it, would be ideal though.
"We are not in a hurry," Richard Monstein, the owner, tells me from Los Angeles.
"We are doing it right first time. Can I call you right back? There's a strange heli
copter landing on my pad."
Right includes a machine that shaves boats down to the gel coat and vacuums up
the mess in one operation. It includes a channel to take the used water from pres
sure washing into a tank that filters all the chemicals out before returning it to the
river. It includes a holding tank pump-out facility and treatment plant.
The architect responsible on site is Jose Luis Donis. He told me the effluent is 98
percent pure when it is discharged into the river and Mr. Monstein can monitor the
whole operation from his home in Los Angeles (when he is not busy seeing off strange
helicopters), including checking on the purity of effluent, so we know where the buck
stops in this operation.
If you are a closet Big Brother, like me, you can watch what is going on in real time,
plus videos and progress reports, when you visit the Ram Marina website at
No hurricanes 270sq. miles of calm seas Full amenities
Phone: (58-281) 267-7412 Fax: (58-281) 2677-810 VHF Channel 71 Web page:
http://bahiaredonda.com.ve E-Mail: email@example.com
Your Marine Store at Venezuela and the Cadr
V CA chat, D
VENEZUELAN MARINE SERVICE, C.A.
SINMRD Hak Mai
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E-ntsalesuanatlajm.wsawnftairearteeinmia (SocnaatCamelo'sMadinaatlh beach)
fax: 401.732.6772 P RE AIR '
* El Morro Tourist Complex m Puerto La Cruz m Venezuela
Lat. 10 12' 24"N Long. 64 40' 5'fW
1, ,f N
Sand Yields Hurricane Secrets
Lonny Lippsett and Mike Carlowicz reported in the June 19th issue of Oceanus mag-
azine that geologists from Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution (WHOI) recently
studied sediment from Laguna Playa Grande in Vieques, Puerto Rico, to compile
the longest record of strong hurricanes in the Atlantic region. The WHOI researchers,
Jeff Donnelly and Jon Woodruff, reported their findings in the May 24th issue of the
Laguna Playa Grande sits behind a vegetation-covered barrier beach that is as
much as 260 feet (80 meters) wide and seven to ten feet (two to three meters)
high. Surges from intense storms carry sand from the ocean beach over the dunes
and into the lagoon. Such "over-topping" events leave distinctive layers of
coarse-grained sands and bits of shell interspersed between the organic-rich silt
usually found in lagoon sediments. The interspersed layers of silt and sand record-
ed long stretches of frequent hurricane strikes punctuated by lulls that lasted
The evidence, going back some 5,000 years, showed that the dominant forces
spawning heightened hurricane activity appeared to be atmospheric conditions
generated by weak El Ninos in the tropical Pacific and strong West African mon-
soons. Unexpectedly, it also showed extensive periods of intense hurricanes in the
past, when ocean temperatures were cooler than they are now.
"Warm sea surface temperatures are clearly important in fueling intense hurri-
canes," Donnelly said. "Over the past several thousand years, ocean temperatures
have never been as warm as they are now, so we have no analog to help predict
how they will affect hurricane activity. But our research demonstrates that the El
Nino/Southern Oscillation and the West African monsoon are certainly important.
Understanding how they will change in a warming world could be extremely impor-
tant in determining the kind of hurricane activity we will see in the future."
The researchers also examined precipitation records from Lake Ossa, Cameroon,
and discovered that when monsoon rains increased, intense hurricanes occurred
more often on the other side of the Atlantic.
"If we have few El Niho events and a strong West African monsoon, combined with
exceedingly high sea surface temperatures, we could experience an active hurri-
cane period that is unprecedented in the last 5,000 years," Donnelly said.
"Conversely, if we have more steady-state El Nino conditions, it may reduce but
not stop intense hurricane activity in a warmer world."
Sea Turtle First Aid Guide
The Wider Caribbean Sea Turtle Conservation Network (WIDECAST), widely respect-
ed for its role in defining best practices for sea turtle conservation and manage-
ment throughout our region, has a new publication available, entitled Marine Turtle
Trauma Response Procedures: A Field Guide. This is a practical guide describing sea
turtle illnesses and injuries, and addressing the nature of sea turtle mortalities.
The guide provides a comprehensive and readable prescription for diagnosing trau-
ma, alleviating pain, and responding to emergency situations. Fundamental back-
ground, reference photos of normal anatomy, and diagrams to guide novice or
professional biologists, stranding personnel, and veterinarians are provided for a
range of circumstances ranging from buoyancy to entanglement to parasites. Clear
and up-to-date information on resuscitation procedures, euthanasia, and carcass
disposal provide even the least experienced turtle biologist with the tools to address
these unexpected events.
For more than two decades, WIDECAST, with Country Coordinators in more than 40
Caribbean States and territories, has linked scientists, conservationists, resource
managers, resource users, policy-makers, industry groups, educators, and other
stakeholders together in a collective effort to develop a unified management
framework, and to promote a regional capacity to design and implement scientifi-
cally sound sea turtle management programs.
Another WIDECAST initiative is the regional Sea Turtle Trauma Response Corps
(STTRC). The aim of the STTRC is to strengthen and coordinate the efforts of people
throughout the Wider Caribbean Region to respond to sea turtles in crisis, whether
at sea or stranded along the shoreline. The STTRC will feature regular training and
internship opportunities for field staff and volunteers, natural resource managers,
veterinarians, and animal rescue practitioners. Within the year STTRC plans to have
focal points in every Caribbean nation.
If you would like a copy of the Field Guide, please send your request to Dr Karen
Eckert, Executive Director, at keckert@widecast org.
Resort Reports Reef Restoration Success
A collaboration began five years ago between the Grand Cayman Marriott Beach
Resort, the Grand Cayman Departments of Tourism and the Environment, the Reef
Ball Foundation, and the Florida Institute of Technology (FIT) to rebuild an eroded
beach, restore ailing coral reefs and create new fishing and scuba diving sites. In
March 2007, a new FIT study reported growth of new, natural coral on the reef,
which is now supporting an increasingly rich ecosystem.
In 2002, 200 Reef Balls were installed to create a five-row submerged breakwater
that began at the south end of Seven Mile Beach. By February 2003, the beach had
been restored to its previous depth. The breakwater has remained stable during
waves from major hurricanes, including the direct hit by Category 5 Hurricane
Ivan in 2005.
In 2005, the Marriott commissioned the Foundation to create and place another 69
Reef Balls offshore. Recognizing that the entire community, as well as its guests,
could contribute to the preservation effort, the resort began hosting public forums
for staff, residents and guests, where Foundation representatives explained how
everyone might contribute to restoring the natural reef environment.
Like natural reefs that contribute to the stability of the beaches in their lee, sub-
merged Reef Balls assist in stabilizing the shoreline by forcing larger waves to break
on the structure, reducing wave energy that reaches and erodes the shore. The first
submerged breakwater project constructed using Reef Balls was in the Dominican
Republic during 1998. To date, Reef Balls have been used in more than 55 countries
Tire Reef Idea Didn't Work
Divers in Florida recently removed up to two million old tires from the ocean floor after
a plan in the 1970s to create the world's largest artificial tire reef became an ecologi-
cal disaster. The well-intentioned idea was to create new marine habitat and alternate
dive sites. The plan also served to dispose of tires that were clogging landfills.
But little sea life formed on the tires dumped about a mile offshore in 1972. Some of
the bundles bound together with nylon and steel had broken loose and were scour-
ing the ocean floor and washing up on beaches. Others were wedged up against
the nearby natural reef, blocking coral growth and devastating marine life.
US Army and Navy salvage divers removed the tires as part of their annual
Dominicans Second at New St. Lucia Event
Following the Dominica Yacht Club's (DYC) historic
first race outing to the Bequia Easter Regatta in April,
the DYC competed in May's inaugural BMW J/24
Invitational Regatta hosted by the St. Lucia Yacht
Club. The new event, sponsored by Ultimate
Automobiles, attracted seven teams, which included
teams from Trinidad, Martinique and Barbados as well
as Dominica and St. Lucia. Jerry Bethell skippered the
DYC team and Valence Victor, Marie Mazat and
Rowald "Felly" Derrick crewed.
On Saturday the teams raced in two groups, swapping
boats for each race so that all raced in each boat. The
teams were then divided into Gold and Silver Fleets,
the winner and second place of each of the groups
going into Gold and the remainder into Silver.
On Sunday the competition for the winner of each
fleet took place. The Gold Fleet was hotly contested
between St. Lucia's Junior Team, skippered by 18-
year-old Frederic Sweeney, and another St. Lucian
team skippered by the St. Lucia Yacht Club's sailing
captain, Nick Forsberg. The overall winner, by one
point, was the St. Lucia Junior Team. The training they
received with the Yacht Club's Junior Sailing
Programme and the international experience of
Frederic and crewmember Luis Meixner paid divi-
dends. In third place was the team from Martinique
and fourth the team from Trinidad.
The Silver Fleet results could not have been closer. The
winner was the boat skippered by the St. Lucia Yacht
Club Commodore, Charles Devaux, who won only
because he won the last race which, by a quirk of
yacht racing rules, made him the winner over the
Dominican skipper, despite the fact that Jerry and
Charles finished with the same number of points. In
third place was Barbados.
All DYC team members and supporters declared the
regatta a great success, as well as another giant step
for the DYC and for Dominica's infant sailing industry
in general. The DYC is extremely grateful to the event
organizers and St. Lucia Yacht Club members for
being such gracious hosts.
The DYC continues to look at plans to race the
Dominica flag around the region, and to getting the
kids' sailing program going this summer in Dominica.
Whitsun Sailing Regatta at Petite Martinique
Heather Grant reports: The annual Whitsun weekend
sailing regatta was held in Petite Martinique on the
27th and 28th of May. It was well attended by partici-
pants and spectators alike. This regatta is always a
colourful event; this year was no exception.
Sailing dinghies from Carriacou, Petite Martinique and
Union Island participated with gusto. The weather was
perfect lots of sunshine and plenty of wind.
In first place overall was Pimpy, a Carriacou boat.
Second place was taken by Ark Royal, also from
Carriacou, and third was Unity, a Union Island boat
owned by the Union Island Sailing Club.
These small-island regattas are loads of fun and have
helped to bring back the love of traditional sailing
skills in the Grenadines.
Caribbean Keelboat Championships Underway
As this issue of Compass goes to press, the 6th North
Sails Caribbean Keelboat Championships are taking
place on June 16th and 17th in the Simpson Bay
lagoon, St. Maarten. We'll have the results for you in
next month's Compass!
Bastille Kingfish Tourney in St. Thomas
Carol Bareuther reports: The Northside Sportfishing
Club's Annual Bastille Day Kingfish Tournament, set for
July 15th at Hull Bay Hideaway, offers more ways to
win and more cash and luxury gift prizes than any
other inshore sports fishing tournament held in the
Virgin Islands. In addition to fishing fun, there's a live
band and beach party in the afternoon along with
special Coors Light shoreside games.
New this year, a continuous free shuttle compliments
of Hull Bay Hideaway will run from the parking lot at
Sib's On The Mountain to Hull Bay Beach from 11AM
until 11PM on July 15. Jump on or off at Sib's or any-
where along Hull Bay Road.
Last year, 67 boats and 272 anglers including 34
junior anglers competed. St. Thomas' Jill Nicolini,
fishing aboard Islander, won the Largest Kingfish prize
with the catch of a 19.33-pounder.
First organized by the Northside Sportfishing Club in
1987, the tournament has become one of the high-
lights of French Heritage Week festivities. The event
benefits the Joseph Sibilly School, St. Thomas Rescue,
The American Red Cross, Kdscope, and the Family
For more information, call (340) 774-5206.
Carriacou Regatta in August
The Carriacou Regatta was established in 1965 by the
late John Linton Riggs, a Jamaican-born yachtsman
who settled on this Grenadine island in the early 1950s.
The early-August festival, which began as a local boat
racing event held over the Emancipation weekend
each year, has now grown to include yacht races and
a wide array of sporting and cultural activities.
The organizers say that the main aim of the festival is
to perpetuate the indigenous art of boatbuilding,
handed down by the Irish and Scottish forebears of
today's Carriacou people. The Regatta's race events
highlight the locally built sailing "workboats", with
some 12 different classes ranging from small open
fishing boats to decked cargo sloops. While
Carriacou's decked sloops are unique to the island,
open sailing boats from other Grenadine islands as
well as Tobago join the competition. There are also
races for the distinctive sportboats of Petite
Martinique, and for yachts in both competitive and
"fun" classes, as well as dinghy races for the junior
sailors. The workboat events, along with typically
Carriacou attractions such as the donkey race, are
based at Hillsborough, and the yacht action is based
at Tyrrel Bay. The double-handed round-the-island
race for yachts is always a favorite.
For more information see ad on page 11.
New Transatlantic Race to Finish in St. Maarten
The inaugural Transatlantic Maxi Yacht Rolex Cup is
set to take place in late November, racing from Real
Club Nautico de Tenerife in the Canary Islands to the
Sint Maarten Yacht Club for the finish. It is open to
monohull Maxi yachts with a minimum overall length
of 18 metres (59 feet) that are in compliance with
the International Maxi Association's (IMA) five divi-
sion regulations (Racing, Cruising, Wally, Spirit of
Tradition, Mini Maxi).
After a November 26th start, the Maxis will sail for
approximately ten days before reaching the finish line
off Sint Maarten. The prizegiving is scheduled for
December 14th at the Sint Maarten Yacht Club,
where the Rolex Trophy and a Rolex Oyster Perpetual
timepiece will be awarded to the overall winner. Over
the course of the race, satellite positioning systems
installed on every boat will allow organizers, competi-
tors and armchair sailors to monitor the fleet's
progress at www.yccs.it.
IMA President Claus Peter Offen, from Hamburg,
Germany, was one of the first entrants to sign on for
the event and will race aboard his new Wally 100.
Peter Harrison, the driving force behind Great Britain's
2002 America's Cup Challenge, will also compete
aboard Sojana, his Farr 115 cruising ketch.
"The IMA had a lot of requests from owners who want to
compete in a transatlantic race; up until now there has
been no special race for Mads," explained Offen. "The
Atlantic Rally for Cruisers, for example, has now added a
racing division but there is a madmum boat size so mads
don't really fit in. The IMA therefore decided to create a
dedicated Transatlantic regatta for Mad yachts.... I
expect around ten to 20 yachts for the first edition of the
race which we intend to repeat biennially."
Many of the competing boats expect to remain in the
islands for several months and are likely to take part in
other regattas, including the International Rolex
Regatta in St. Thomas, which will offer an IRC division
for the first time in 2008 (we'll have news on that in
next month's Compass!).
90 9o Hra L td
FOR YOUR MARINE HARDWARE, AND MORE
Chain & Rope
Anchors & Fenders
Lubricants & Oils
Flares & Life Jackets
Sanding Paper & Discs
Hand & Power Tools
Houseware & Cookware
I TOUR DEs GUADELOUPE 0 I0
FIVE CHALLENGING PIECES
by Stephane Legendre
For its 29th anniversary, the Round Guadeloupe
Regatta gathered 50 boats in five classes; 18 in
Racing/Cruising, four in Racing, five in Coastal, ten in
Multihull and ten in Beach Cat. The smaller turn-out
than last year's 60 boats was attributed to the diffi
culty many sailors have in leaving their jobs long
enough to enter a five-day event. Pron. i ... .i.
out the Caribbean also needs to be :..i ..-.. i i .I
cannot be done right now due to lack of financial
means, says organizer Jean Michel Marziou.
S i i ld this year from May 16 to 20, was
S fifth time by the Triskell Association.
Two to three hundred meals were served each evening
by the organization, and needless to say things were
challenging in some places, but participants thor
oughly enjoyed every bit of those evening parties
which included different shows and dancing till late
This edition was windy with 15 to 25 knots of east to
southeasterly wind throughout this journey around
the archipelago. A generous sun also accompanied the
fleet all the way.
The more than 150-nautical-mile race was divided
into five legs.
Leg One: Gosier to Marie Galante
That first planned leg of approximately 25 nautical
miles against 20 knots of wind was unfortunately can
celled as the upwind buoy at Marie Galante drifted due
to current; only a few could pass it. But Marie
Galante's evening beach party was pleasant and well
organized. This island, traditionally turned towards
agriculture, is slowly becoming accustomed to nauti
cal events as this year it hosted the famous Belle-Ile to
Marie Galante r ....1 1 ... 1 1 Atlantic crossing
on one- -=1:, .. I ...- I I rt in June 2007
edition I . ir i Compass).
The monohull fleet
gets off to a tight
start at Gosier
Leg Two: Marie Galante to Port Louis
The longest leg on this Tour (about 55 nautical
miles) was windy and rough, especially in the Pointe
des Chateaux area at the eastern tip of Guadeloupe. A
dramatic accident was avoided as racing class con
tender Clair de Vent's skipper, Yannick Rebuffat, hit
the deck and fell unconscious overboard. The prompt
reaction of the entire crew got him back aboard and
the fire brigade's emergency squad did the rest.
Rebuffat recovered with only a stiff neck and joined in
the race again at Deshaies.
Leg Three: Port Louis to Deshaies
After a long journey, this relaxing 20-mile day was
appreciated. It started with an upwind-downwind
course before heading directly to the charming little
ii .. )f Deshaies where the municipality did i,,..-
Si the evening. The show was the best i II
Leg Four: Deshaies-Vieux Fort-Les Saintes
The fleet motored through the lee of Basse Terre as
far as Vieux Fort and departed at midday to race under
sail to the Saintes. This always exiting ride across the
rough Saintes channel took us to one of the nicest bays
of the Caribbean at Terre de Haut. The course specified
rounding the Saintes to port before reaching the finish
line between Ile a Cabrit and Terre de Haut.
Leg Five: Les Saintes to Pointe a Pitre
The last race of the Tour, a leg of approximately 30
nautical miles, started on Sunday with a sail across
the Saintes .r-ir-- 1-efore . 1.... towards
Pointe a Pit] 1i .... I. line I h.. edition.
Southeasterly winds helped competitors to cover
those 30 miles in record times and everybody was at
the marina by early afternoon.
As expected, several veteran competitors again
fought for supremacy. In Racing/c .. -i .-- 1.. 1.
ly tuned boats such as Pauli i, i il Ir .
Parapharmacie (Gib Sea 414), and Credit Maritime
(TOP 50) with 21 school children on board in turns of
seven, dominated the class. But a newcomer, Marie
Marie (Feeling 10.40), came in second overall, disturb
ing the logic of this class.
I ... Class was dominated by Jimmy Dreux's Voile
Si ... the Sailing School Association of Goyave.
Pascal Poisson's VM Materiaux won the Coastal
Class overall, ahead of a newcomer from Saint
Francois Yacht Club on a First Class 8.
This year the busy multihull class was keenly dis
puted as ten boats joined in. Sopsag, Patrick
Riffault's MacGregor, won because of his regularity
For the 13 Beach Cats, this Tour was a physical
challenge in those weather conditions. This year, a
woman, Birgit Krahe, placed first, in front of last year's
winner Pascal Marchais.
Once again, it was a memorable Tour de
Guadeloupe. See you all next year!
For more information visit www.triskelUcup.com or
Tour de Guadeloupe 2007
1) Paulista, J/112, Champion
2) Marie Marie, Feeling 10.40, Soret
3) SofaiaParapharmacie, Gib Sea 414
1) Voile 44, Dreux
2) Americano, Wilzius
3) Team HP, Lahary
1) VMMateriaux, Poisson
2) YCSF, Budet
3) YOU YOU 2, Jeanne
1) Sopso, l "-r Riffault
2) Coco: ...
3) Lady Manta, Cardin
Beach Cat Class
1) Birgit Krahe, Hobie Cat 16
2) Pascal Marchais, Hobie Cat Tiger
3) Bohl, Hobie Cat Tiger
lower in the
This large capacity 6 liter engine comes in a compact package and only takes out only 225 hp. By comparison
our nearest competition take that out of a 4 liter engine. Running at a low 2500 rpm vs the competition's 3300
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lg e pump has a longer life and less to go wrong while the waste gate turbo charger
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CABLE & WIRELESS
i Republic Bank
I II I I I
1Ii1 11m1 i
.y regatta is de name, boat race is de game. But, ah tell yo', it ain't no
fo' dem man is .i .I I i... . .11 )mean' ~-n- l- t P -;
1 ley planning' fo'C ... ..... . . .. he no' .I- i i i if
tekin' de overall first at Easter. II .11 I ....11 I I. .. I rk, shapin' down stern,
changing' de bottom, lightenin' up, getting' new sail an' all dat, ah must admit he had
he share ah bad luck at Easter, rollin' Saturday an' breaking he sprit on Sunday. De
S II I. ..I
gcTrust meII .h because when ah was small
troug h dem drink!
Well, is Saturday, 26th. De weather fair to fine, de sun hot. 12 oIclock an' de
ab ,i i' .... ... I I I I ,h
anon R a is a t f' In de 2 t cs we gt B C ,
bers, den de 16-foot a' dr. I i ..
somefin' yo' lull ah water to' animals drink.
Trust me, h know, because when ah was small
me old parents use fo' tell me go an' full up de
trough fo' dem drink!
Well, is Saturday, 26th. De weather fair to fine, de sun hot. 12 o'clock an' de
Canouan Regatta is about fo' start. In de 28 foot class we got Bluff Confusion, an
Perseverance; in de 27 foot, Limbo an' Iron Duke; 18 foot, Worries, Tornado an' Sweet
Image ah don't have fo' tellyo' way dem from! In de 16 foot class is Marion, Scope
an' Liberty, an' in de 14 foot is My Love, I'm Still Alive, Bad Feelings, Hard Target, D
Robin Spy, When, Sustain an' Teaser. Yo' hear names? I i I I- de 14 foot
ers, den de 16 foot an' dowr i i .T, ..-. en' ... I, . ah trackin'
dem wid me speed boat. Ah I I I I I who cheat an'who mek mistake.
Talkin' 'bout mistake, de I ",ii I I Ih -I one by givin' dem ah chart wid
de course an' changing' it at de last minute. Dey excuse, because de start late, dem
I GRENADA MARINE
shortenin' it. An' fo' mek tings worse, de start man shoutin' on ah megaphone on de
beach an' dey got some boom box big like de boat dem blaring next to him, so I will
say no more. Some hear and some not but dem gone. Dem go' argue when dem come
back, bet on dat.
Well, dem turn de downwind mark wid Confusion in de lead den Perseverance den
Bluff: Now is a beat all de way up to de mark in Friendship. De tide goin' nort'-west
hard an' de wind coming' from de nort'- 1. 1.1 dem in
fo' ah lot ah tackin' an' dat is what de o1 I I I -, ... put
she by de wind an' let her go! On de t'ird tack, she cut all
two ah der ... i .... ..... ... h watching' dem close
becauseall o .. I i 1 i .. ... i ah bad tack otherwise
yo' lost. Lucky fo' Bluff she ain't mek none .n' "h- P i-in
.... ... ...
\... h \i ,III, iIIII ,,
'Class first to go, de 14footers...'
Ah can't give yo' commentary on Limbo an' Iron Duke because Limbo was tackin' in
Bluff track an' ah can't see Iron Duke at all, she so far behind -wind too light fo'
she. In de 18-foot, Worries givin' dem more worries. Ah go' tell yo' more tomorrow.
Right now, ah need ah few cold green bottles.
Sunday morning de breeze feel good an' getting' stronger. 11 o'clock an' dem start. Ah
watching' from de hill today (gas price gone up!). Is ah downwind-upwind course today,
two laps, around a mark northwest ah Glossy Hill. Ah say 'hill' no, change dat.
Continued on next page
Continued from previous page
Yo' see, dem building ah jet port in Canouan, lengthenin' de old airport, an' dem
blasting' down Glossy Hill fo' get stone an' dirt. So, no hill -dem almost got it flat.
Dem pigeon an' dove ha' fo' get another home -too bad. Well, dem boat turn de
:::::: ::iiiiiL i
.an aown to ae Dig Doys
mark an' is upwind, Perseverance in de lead, Confusion an' Bluff tackin' on each
other, is man beat man. Perseverance turn de top mark first, Confusion an' Bluff
close behind. Downwind de, :-;;' f-' le other lap.
Not to be; is de first race c i. I.... I. without crossing' de finish line! Dem old peo
ple does say, never let yo' left ear know what yo' right ear hear. De man starting' de
race say two laps but de man dat putting' down de mark say dem tell he one, so, as
de last boat turn de west mark, he tek up de mark an' head up too. So he coming' up
an' all de boat on de way down. Watch a mess, all boat headin' fo' shore now. Goin'
be hell to pay -ah don't want fo' be close dem when dey start! But after a few hours
pass an' ah couple ah beers, ah get in de do an' ask if dem reach ah decision. Not
to be. Perseverance want she first, Confusion an' Bluffsay de race no' finish an' all
ah dem right! Is de Committee at fault. After ah lot ah back an' fort', ah mek ah sug
gestion to de Committee. Share de spoils equally an' dem accept. Talk done, at least
fo' now. Choosing de overall goin' be ah different matter but is also another day.
Monday, last race. De wind holding' good an' de skies clear. Triangle in de bay (two
laps). Off dem go, small boats first down de track. It go' be ah nice race today, ah up
on de hill early to watch dem go out to de first mark. All dem boat close to each
other. After all, is two broad reach an ah short upwind, just wha' Confusion want.
She very fast on de draw. Yo' see, de man Wayne does try everything. He carry water
ballast. Downwind he light an' upwind he full de jugs with water. Ah ain't sure dat
allowed but it working' fo' him. Bluffan' Perseverance is better upwind but dat leg too
short fo' dem catch up. So he tek first, Bluffsecond, Perseverance third or last.
Limbo beat IronDuke by ah long way an' Tornado first also by ah long way. Ah can't
tell yo 'bout dem rest because dem way down dere an' de sun hot like hell. No trees
up here so ah ha' fo' find some shade an' ah cold one. Ah go' get de results from de
Committee later. Prize-giving start at 7 o'clock, short an' to de point. Ah only wish
dem could start de races like dat. All in all, it was a good three days. Ah t'ink de
Committee did well -but room for improvement, yes, next year.
Orbin Olivierre is the Commodore of the Bequia Sailing Club.
Canouan Regatta 2007
My Love, Stanley Harry, Bequia
Bad Feelings, Samuel Forde, Mayreau
I'm Still Alive, Adolphus Forde, Mayreau
Scope International, Rannie Hazell, Canouan
Marion, Bonnie Forde, Mayreau
Liberty, Elmore Snagg, Canouan
Worries, Andy Mitchell, Bequia
Tornado, Kingsley Stowe, Bequia
Sweet Image, Robert Hazell, Bequia
Limbo, Allick Daniel, Bequia
Iron Duke, Evan Chambers, Bequia
Confusion, Wayne Gooding, Bequia
Bluff, Lashie King, Bequia
Perseverance, Arnold Hazell, Bequia
o ,age up Io tlrmm
Geor & Furlers in Stock A ll 11ngs in 6lo01
Located three nautical miles from the eastern tip
of Guadeloupe, La Desirade is geologically the
oldest island of the Lesser Antilles. It is 11 km
long by 2 km wide. When seen by Christopher
Columbus in 1493 during his second voyage, it was
named Desirada because the sailors, after a two-month
S...i. .... "desired" to reach land.
iih .hi -h1111 i .... run twice a day, only a few
tourists make the journey to Desirade from Saint
Francois harbour on the Guadeloupe mainland. The
journey is really worth it, though, as this island is
unspoiled and quiet, inhabited by only 1,700 people.
,. 1 1,. i I 11 r coral reefs on the south coast
S.... i .. an hire a motorbike or a four
wheel drive to explore the island, first on the only road
running along the south coast and then on top of the
table mountain which provides, on a clear day, fantastic
views of Guadeloupe, the islets of Petite-Terre (a National
Reserve), Marie-Galante, Dominica and Les Saintes.
Beausejour harbour can only host two to three boats at
a time, anchored with stem lines to the breakwater. There
is a plan to install some mooring buoys but the budget
has not yet been voted. Not to worry -you have a 99
percent chance of being the only yacht in this friendly
fishermen's harbour. Entering the harbour through the
channel between breakers on a rough day is something
you will remember, as it is very narro- 1 it ti .-. very
close to the two red buoys everything .1 I i
DESIRADE REGATTA 2007
Guadeloupe's Saint Francois
to Desirade Race
by Stephane Legendre
And they're off to Desirade, geologically the oldest
island in the Lesser Antilles and one of the least visited
Saint Francois Yacht Club on Guadeloupe was cre
ated in 2004; the goal, among others, was to bring
dynamism to the Saint Francois marina and village
based on watersports activities. In 2007, President
Claude Grasset and his team were awarded the very
exacting "Station Nautique" label for excellence in this
field. The association was also deeply involved in the
project of restructuring the marina.
The new marina, scheduled to be fully operational in
March 2008, will include 20 visitors' berths. The access
channel and marina will be dredged to reach a depth of
three metres. Saint Francois should then
become a popular destination for many
sailing vessels, as it will offer many service
es and activities within walking distance,
including. i : ih i. Ii ... the small
airport, .,,I ,,I I . tI ... I ,I .; lagoon.
All this is good news for the
Guadeloupe archipelago's eastern sailing
area. If you add the 25 free mooring
buoys which have been installed at Saint
Louis of Marie Galante, this area
becomes very attractive for yachting.
Saint Francois Yacht Club also organize
Sii . ..... I events, such as the
I I I '1 1 sailing boats and
Hemingway Trophy for sports fishing.
The Desirade regatta is voluntarily
small conviviality prevails over racing.
There are of course winners, but as one
participant puts it, the only losers are
those who did not participate. This year's
edition was held on June 2nd and 3rd,
with ten boats registered this year in
three classes: Racing/Cruising, Coastal
and Beach Cats.
Saturday morning's race started just
outside Saint Francois marina,. Winds
were from the southeast at 20 knots
under sunny skies. The first part of the
day's leg, to Petite Terre National Reserve,
was tactical and wet. The second part, to
Beausejour of Desirade, was fast -the
jury boat was barely on time to welcome
the first beach cat!
A scrumptious evening meal, organized
at a local restaurant, gave all participants
the chance to share their day's experi
ences especially those exciting
moments negotiating the entrance channel's breaking
seas. For many it was their first time to Desirade with
their own boat.
Sund--. -rn-.T;' upwind-downwind race started at
10:00 -, I i,,.i, i 'Dy noon. The prizegiving ceremony
took place on the beach. In place of trophies, the win
ners received a variety of local products among which
rum was prominent.
The afternoon's journey back to Saint Francois or
Pointe a Pitre was an enjoyable, sunny downwind ride
back home. It concluded a beautiful weekend.
Desirade's local authorities, fishermen and ferry
companies agreed to make room in the harbour for an
increased number of participants next year. The goal
is to reach 20.
For more information visit www.ycsf.info.
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LES SAINTS REGATTA 2007
By Stephane Legendre
The Cercle Sportif du Bas du Fort -Gosier, Andrew Dove and Les Saintes sail
maker Philippe (Phil a Voile) organize this event, which is not only a wonderful week
end break for locals, but also an attn. ti -- .1 f-r boats coming from Martinique or
other islands to sail in the sheltered .1 I 11 Saintes i., i 1 .
isers put it, it is their weekend and nothing is going to p.' ' i I..... .
great fun ashore, whereas on the water things are very seriously well organized!
The two days of the event's fifth edition, June 9th and 10th 2007, were dry and
winds ranked from ten knots to 25 (Ilstino to 301 on the Sundav morning
As usual, the weekend racing started by a Round Les Saintes Race. This was fol
lowed on Sunday by two races, one typical windward/leeward race and, to finish, a
windward/leeward pursuit race. The pursuit race was ... ...I -1.... way of having
the whole flee i .,..-... .1i, .ost together and on time : . 1 .,, I,.I barbecue pre
pared by the .1 i. i....... featuring grilled dorado, salads and all sorts of drinks.
Twenty monohulls and five multihulls registered this year in two classes:
Racing/Cruising and Multihull.
On the Saturday a 10:30 start was given for the fleet, which had to leave Terre de
Haut, Grand Ilet, La Coche, Terre de Bas and Le Pate to starboard and cross the fin
ish line at the Pain de Sucre of Terre de Haut.
All the usual local boats were present, plus five from Martinique. Competitors include
ed two Swan 56s from the Caribbean Swan Charter company based in Guadeloupe.
Those two could not expect to attain podium position- I .- .. ....i and the
short legs which had to be covered, but nonetheless c i. i 111 i I i between
Swan Caribbean manager John Burnie and Claude Thelier, the very experienced skip
per from Guadeloupe. It ti.... I 11.i I ., I ihe Guadeloupean.
With ten to 15 knots of~ ... II i.. -I . I ... I Sorrets Feeling 10.40 Marie
Marie came first in front of Philippe Champion's J/120 Paulista and Manu Velasquez's
Surprise Clippers Ship from Martinique. Multihull class was dominated by Vincent de
Maynard's JDK28 Super U followed by Vincent Trancarts Formula 40 EO.
By 2:00 everybody was back to Terre de Haut, already preparing for the very hot
evening to follow at the village restaurants.
"The morning aft' ii. .... 1 r .- difficult but everyone seemed eager to
face that beautiful ... I I I .I .... day. Fifteen to 20 knots of wind, gust
Above: Multihull Class winner Super U, standing on one leg'
Left: The morning after the night before' everyone seemed eager to race again
the start took place. In Monohull Class, the winning order was different but the three
first boats were the same: first Clippers Ship, second Marie Marie, and third Paulista.
For the multihulls, the order of arrival was identical to the first race.
The pursuit race started at 11:00. The rule is simple: within a calculated limited
time of one hour and thirty minutes, the start schedule is calculated according to
each boat's .1.1. i..ch gives that third windward/leeward race a one-design
flavour. The :, I - the line is the winner.
Clippers Ship came first, followed by MarieMarie and Pascal Bouvard's Studio 10
Le Ponton also from Martinique. In the Multihull Class, it was EO in first, followed
by Super U, with Pascal Marcel's Chimere Orange third.
By early afternoon, on Cabrit Island the overall winners were announced:
1) Marie Marie, Feeling 10.40, Franck Sorret, Guadeloupe
2) Clippers Ship, Surprise, Manu Velasquez, Martinique
3) Paulista, J/120, Philippe Champion, Guadeloupe
1) Super U, JDK28, Vincent de Maynard, Guadeloupe
2) EO, Formula 40, Vincent Trancart, Guadeloupe
3) Passage du Vent, one-off design, Philippe Pollet, Guadeloupe
Another fresh fish barbecue and abundant wine concluded this successful event
before everyone said au revoir. One wish for next year: to have boats from more
neighboring islands join us to race and fete in Les Saintes!
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GIRLS ON SAIL IN TOBAGO
by Katrina Kelshall
A ngostura really hosts a sweet regatta in
Tobago! This year was their 25th Anniversary
and they have worked out how to ensure a
regatta runs smoothly: put the women in charge.
Although 99 percent of the sailors are men, the cru
cial one percent whv -rr.ni=- and drive this regatta
are women. Let's : i i -f them.
First up there's Betty Davidson from Regatta
Promoters who works on the regatta year round to
make sur ,- i,.... ..... like clockwork. Betty
organizes Ii.... ... i I Z and ----n in.: = to
inveigle Customs and Immigration II .- I me
fr ... i i . .. i . -1. 11 1 ... I it Crown
P, ...I i i .... I I ,1 i I ...... ... and out
Betty is aided and abetted by Diana Clarke who also
keeps a keen eye on the jetty to make sure rogue crew
don't sail away on the quaint little thatch-roofed barge
which serves as the dinghy dock in Store Bay.
Phyllis Serrao and Nancy Yen Chong ("Tweedle Dum
and Tweedle Dee") run the race room at the regatta vil
lage. They do all the registrations, handle the cash and
are indispensable in carrying out all matters associate
ed with the sailing and social events.
Continued on next page
Phyllis Senrao, left,
runs the race room,
...Nancy Yen Chong,
At this regatta, women are at the helm -of every
thing. The key organizer, Betty Davidson, left,
is aided by Diana Clarke, above
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Telephone: + 596 596 7415 07
S o STRAVnSPORT
WORLD CLASS YACHT LOGISTICS
Yacht at Rest, Mind at Ease
Continuedfrom previous page
Renata Goodridge is the official Regatta Measurer,
and, as well as calculating everyone's handicap
Renata Goodidge, jront row center, is official Regatta
Measure. With fellow Bruggadung II crew at prizegiving,
Madeleine Mercure is standing in back row
tU. .. . 1 .. .. .. -he sails on
B..., ... ., i .II. ... .i i -;skipperedby
Andrew Burke which was overall Racing Class winner
at this year's Angostura Tobago Sail Week. Renata
swears that without a stiff rum-and-coke she can't get
through the daily maths marathon required to work
out all the final scores! The rum prevails, and results
are out before the prizegiving every evening.
Also part of Bruggadung II's winning crew this year
is Madeleine Mercure. Originally from Canada,
Madeleine has lived for years in Barbados, where she
is a swimming coach and nursery school teacher.
Business Machine's (nearly) all women crew is skip
pered by Marsha Farfan. She not only has Tobago Sail
Week's only female crew, Marsha is probably the
youngest skipper in the fleet. Business Machine proves
on a regular basis they are made ofi t i; :tl- ; but
brains and bravery as well. It is : i i. .I and
her crew to go home from the regatta without a prize. Above: Business Machine's skipper Marsha,
This year they took second place overall in the center, with crewmembers Natalie, Keisha and
Cruising Class. Crystal, and boatowner/former skipper Brenda
Carla Rauseo runs the foredeck on Sea Wyf She is (who also happens to be Marsha's mom!)
Above: The Regatta Committee elegance
a physical therapist which es in handy when experience!
skipper Kevin Kenny puts the crew through its paces,
especially as Tommy Gatcliffe (at the sprightly age ofan
86) is on board. Carla makes sure their pole is always
and efficient Start Committees in the Caribbean.nce
Pauli ne Leighton briefs her team of women with
SLefstr Cara Rauseo on ase foredeck of regatta found aer
Sy Kevin Kenn'r s ea Wyf s ye the a
/ H And where would a professional regatta be without an
experienced Committee? Angostura Tobago Sail Week
Ahas always been proud to have one of the most elegant
and efficient Start Committees in the Caribbean.
Pauline Leighton briefs her team of 11 women with
strict instructions because accuracy is essential, and all
take their roles seriously. This year the ladies started
and finished nine races a day with four races a day
for the Racing Class. Thafs no mean feat.
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Tel/Fax (473) 443 2960
Annual Hurricane Preparation Hints
Part One: Prepare for Pop Ups
by Brad Glidden
The time for taking all measures for a ship's safety is while still able to do so.
Nothing is more dangerous for a seaman to be grudging in taking precautions lest
they turn out to have been unnecessary. Safety at sea for a thousand years has
depended on exactly the opposite philosophy.
Fleet Admiral Chester Nimitz, after a 1945 typhoon sank three US Navy destroyers
and drowned a thousand sailors
"The National Hurricane Center is issuing hurricr; ---r-;;;;n f-r the Windwards, Leewards, British and US
Virgin Islands. At 5PM Atlantic Standard Time the "I I I ..... ... Aardvark is located at.... Hurricane force
winds extend out thirty miles from the center. Tropical storm force winds extend out one hundred miles, mainly
north and east of the center. Residents in the warned areas are advised to rush preparations to completion."
Now that we've got your attention... Much as we don't want to admit it, hurricane season is here again. There
are people reading this who are new to the tropics, people who have forgotten the lessons of the last seasons,
people who have information to share. Proper seamanship results from the willing cooperation of experienced
sailors in our community passing on their body of knowledge, and NOW is the time to start preparing and ask
Okay, Ivan was exceptional, and we hope nothing like it ever happens again.
But reducing the windage of boats on the hard by removing sails would have helped
Why Start Preparing Now?
Well, first: because of "pop up" hurricanes. Unlike in August and September, when storms get named soon after
they leave Africa, and we have seven days of watching and worrying and tracking the damn things, July's tropical
storms and hurricanes tend to develop out of tropical waves just east of the islands. That innocuous tropical wave
on the evening news may present itself the ----t m-, 1 i -.- named storm, 24 hours east of your island. You may
have a lot less time to get ready than you v .. I I I. -. I. tropical waves don't go from waves to depressions to
storms to end-of-theworld hurricanes in 24 hours, they can develop enough of a punch to bring chaos to a sleepy
It is also important to remember that the storm forecast is for the center of the storm, and tropical storm force
winds extend out a considerable distance, typically six to 12 hours in advance of the eye. You do not want to be
underway, headed for shelter, in 40 knots and rising winds -and you may have a long way to go to find shelter.
So, where you gonna go when the hurricane comes on to blow? If you're cruising through the islands, and you're
going to be here through the summer season, now is the time to answer that question. Look at charts, talk to the
locals who seem to know what they are about, pick out one or two good spots and GO THERE NOW! Scope out the
area on a calm and peaceful weekend. Take some soundings to see the depth, and maybe even some samples of
the bottom to see whether you're dealing with hard sand, mixed rock or soupy primeval ooze. Visualize how you're
going to get in, and where you're going to go, and then visualize the same situation with 50 other boats crowding
in, some at the last minute. Many hurricane holes have local regulations in effect. Talk to the relevant authorities
and see what their rules are.
Other Reasons to Start Preparing Now
Ask yourself: Are my deck hardware and anchors strong enough? Just how much pull does my gear have to with
stand? If my gear needs I ... p, how long will I need to do that?
We've all seen those tal I a boat this size use this anchor; for a storm use one size bigger". Your corre
spondent doesn't know where they get those figures; I got those below from the American Boat and Yacht Council.
ABYC is a group of very serious -;.9:;--. and architects. Their standards are the standards of the industry and
are accepted by Lloyds and the Guard, among others.
The data below was extracted from tests done to figure load on cleats, and in giving permission to use it in my
book A Cruiser's Guide to Hurricane Survival, ABYC was quite emphatic that this is all the table shows: load on a
line on a cleat for a given wind speed If a skipper is to assume that a given figure for a load on a cleat will be the
- ... I . ... i..... else on the other end of the line (like an anchor), then that is the skipper's assumption and
Having said all that, here's the poop:
Design Loads for Sizing Deck Hardware
Boat dimensions given in feet, horizontal load on boat in pounds.
BOAT DIMENSIONS HORIZONTAL LOAD ON BOAT
Length Beam to 15 kts to 30 kts to 42 kts
10 5 4 40 160 320
15 6 5 60 250 500
20 8 7 90 360 720
25 9 8 125 490 980
30 11 9 175 700 1400
35 13 10 225 900 1800
40 14 11 300 1200 2400
50 16 13 400 1600 3200
60 18 15 500 2000 4000
Continued on next page
CLOTHING 1 i GIFTS
: UNIQUE FASHION
SARI ACCESSORII e i S
Continued from previous page
When using this table with the l.o.a. and beam, use whichever gives the highest loads, e.g. a 45-foot boat with
a 13-foot beam uses the 3,200-pound figure for winds up to 42 knots.
Boats with large superstructures (deckhouses, towers, houseboat cabins, et al) should use one category high
er than that determined by using the powerboat column.
There are a number of assumptions here; that the boat has freedom to swing and present its smallest, bow
on profile to the wind; and that there is protection from surge loading due to high seas and wave action. Surge
will vastly increase the load; this where lots of nylon to absorb shock, and/or a lot of chain to increase weight and
the horizontal angle between the rode and the bottom, becomes crucial.
There is a simple way to calculate loads above 42 knots. As wind speed doubles, force quadruples; three times
the wind speed is nine times the force. Go to the columns for 30 and 42 knots; we will leave calculations for 60,
84 and (God help us) 120 knots as an exercise for the student. An impossibly 1.. 1. .....1 isn't it? In fact, for
wind speeds above 100 knots, the force starts approaching the displacement ..1.1 I I. Ioat. So, if you have
any questions about the heftiness of your cleats, imagine the boat being lifted out of the water by a crane attached
only to those cleats!
All this would imply that adding a few more REALLY BIG cleats might not be overkill. Not only might you need
In fact, taking down masts altogether would have helped even more, and some yards
now require it. Even if it's not compulsory, give this step serious consideration
the strength, you might need the space. You may have to attach three anchor lines or five docklines to those for
ward cleats. Do you have enough room on the horns of a cleat to secure three or more 5/8 inch (14 mm) or big
ger lines, with multiple turns?
A serious examination of the i1" .... i i i ... d backing pads on your deck hardware would be a good idea, too.
Stainless steel likes to be expos i I I' 11 of air around it; when hidden away, say where it passes through
a deck, you get corrosion, pitting and rusting. Any sign of rust weeping through on a fastening should be viewed
with alarm. Hell, if you haven't looked recently at those eight bolts that are all that's between you and disaster,
pull one or more of them now and if they look any less than pristine, replace them.
Another task that it is better to cl .. 11. ... 1 .. i ... 10 is to prepare roller furling sails for fast removal.
When a storm approaches, you II i I.1 .... I i..I. sails off. No ifs, no ands, no buts, no excuses.
Modern roller furling gear is wonderful stuff, but it will NOT stay closed when exposed to 12 hours of tropical
storm force winds. You will not win any popularity contests in yol r n- -r when not if the genoa unfurls
during a storm. So, now is the time to make sure the halyards r -', i' 'I I)locks and swivels aren't seized, the
jib comes down smartly, and you can fold it up and find a place for the damn thing below. Likewise the main. An
amazing number of people forget this little detail until a storm is coming and the *%^#$@#* thing is jammed
halfway down and halfway unfurled. Want to endear yourself to your n-I.-r .- ''-.t-=? Have 500 square feet of
Dacron flogging away in 30-knots-and-gusting conditions. Want to . i.... ... Go up in a bo's'n's chair
in those conditions and try to unsnarl the mess.
Now, you say, I'm hauling out for the hurricane season, so I don't have to worry about anchors and docklines
and cleats. Well, good -but you still have to take the sails off, and you don't want to do that while the boat is
chocked up in the air. In fact, you should go one step further and take the mast out. Some yards, after seeing
boats topple like dominos in a hurricane, make this compulsory. Even if your yard doesn't require it, if they have
the facilities and room, have them pull the stick. You can do all that routine maintenance you can't do afloat, and
NOTHING increases the likelihood of a boat staying upright more than reducing windage by removing the rig.
Boats at anchor in a storm are :-in: to be knocked down with the rail in the water just by --.-n-l- -;i bare poles;
imagine that load on the four i. jackstands holding a boat up on the hard. Older 1.1. ..- I Chapman's
Piloting, Seamanship and Small Boat Handling give a formula for wind force on an object: Area times wind speed
squared divided by 100. So a 50-foot by one-foot mast, sideways to 100 miles an hour of wind, is 5,000 pounds
trying to tip your boat over.
PERSONAL NEEDS: If you use prescription medicines, now is the time to put away at least a two-week supply.
After a bad storm, the local drugstores may not be open, or may be out of what you need, and may very well not
be able to re-supply depleted or destroyed stocks.
Do you wear glasses or contacts? Spares put away now will be available; replacements after a storm might not be.
ECONOMICS: Power will be out. Banks will not be open, credit card machines will not work. People will be a lit
tle crazed, and some will be a little unscrupulous; no one will be paying attention to the finer nuances of finance
but will want cash, now, and may not be able to make change. So, start stashing away a supply of small bills.
Ones, fives, and tens, in whatever the local medium is. That gallon of gas you need might cost eight dollars, and
you can't expect change from a ten or a twenty.
What Do You Say: Stay or Go?
In the last three years of publishing these hurricane preparation hints in the Compass, we have found nothing
-;. -rt" more passionate, vehement answers than the following two questions.
S hurricane is coming towards my island, should I hunker my boat down in a hurricane hole or go to sea
and head for somewhere I think the hurricane won't be?"
"If my boat is in a hurricane hole, should I stay aboard or seek shelter ashore?"
If you missed the last three years of Compass reader feedback on these questions, ranging from the benefit of
first-hand experience to ill-tempered rants, you missed a series of exchanges where phrases like "well-meaning
souls" and "criminally irresponsible stupidity" were among the most tempered of responses. Caribbean Compass
will re-open those cans of worms next month, and now is the time for you to submit your experiences, thoughts
and suggestions for the August issue to me via firstname.lastname@example.org.
Brad Glidden is the author ofA Cruiser's Guide to Hurricane Survival, available at bookshops and chandleries or
from Cruising Guide Publications, www.cmisingguides.com. The new third edition includes lessons learned from
Hurricanes Katrina, Opal and Ivan.
Ws Rpel i RA fwls Oato
-* we. r E Dyr Sto1 -ae aot sa
Southern Caribbean home of
THE MULTIHULL COMPANY
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o be honest I was not overly excited about vis-
iting Jamaica. We were on our way to Cuba and
.1i 11h .1h1 ..1 I ...1 .1 I 1 p on the
way. 1.. I . I .1 1 I 1 11i. .... I on the
island and about "the -,, .... II .nd often aggressive
attitude of officials" (World Cruising Guide) and so were
prepared for the worst. We are leaving, however, with
quite a different attitude.
We had a very pleasant sail from Curacao with per
fect conditions all the way except for a few squalls on
the last night, and as the new day dawned and the
coast of Jamaica rose up from the darkness ---- 1
to relish the prospect of patties and Red -'.1 i
lunch. The wind had eased considerably after the
squalls of the night and our speed was gradually
dropping as we sailed, against the current, up the
eastern coast towards Port Antonio.
smiling Nigel was telling me to come ashore. He had
been having a beer (or two) with the policeman! It had
been arranged that an ........ . .. official would
come out to check us in I., i .11 anotherr beer, we
were free to look around until the appointed time.
As we walked along the road away from the village,
a man ran up behind us .11,,,. us back to his bar.
"Here we go," we thought 11i hassle begins." We
were wrong; he was :,, ,i,,,. ,, for a drink in his bar,
money or no money, I travellers. We spent a
happy hour there and went back several times.
1, 1 .. ...i, .,.i. ., i .d the Immigration
..... 1 .. I I ,, I I, I i.. .- .lthe officials we m et
during our stay, so by the time we settled down for the
night we were feeling more positive about our situation.
The first thing we needed to do the next day was to
contact our son to report our safe arrival, and with that
Shearwater at anchor in Manchioneal. We found that Jamaica's reputation as a dangerous country is unfounded
When we found ourselves .-.....i.. do three
knots we decided to motor the -1 i ... i That was
when we discovered we had a problem witi' .....
We could still make it to Port Antonio I I .
even at two knots, and had little option but to make
the best of it and keep sailing. But then the wind died
completely. We were going nowhere.
For the next few hours I tried to pick up any breath
of wind that came by v1,i .. 1 worked on the
-it-r-rofuswas .. -.. and :I;.1;.1
i i11 1 I I down the coast ever closer -
had tried several times to : I .--:-1 ..ce using the
VHF but had no reply. Our i1 .- -I 'but we were
getting worried; the afternoon was marching on and
we were running out of options. We watched distant
rain clouds optimistically, hoping for wind, but each
one seemed to make a detour and pass us by.
After an eternity we managed to attract the attention of
some fishermen who agreed to give us a tow. They took
us to Manchioneal, where no cruiser had been before!
We entered the harbour under the curious gaze of
several fishermen as their boats milled around us, and
eventually anchored off the police station in 3.5
metres, under the supervision of police represent
tives who had come out in one of the boats.
We were asked to report immediately to the police
station with our documents. Nigel went alone while I
sorted the boat. He was gone for more than an hour
and a half ar'- T ---T 1 -- ;n;,, t- --.. --r ---hat was
going on I -1.1 . .... I ..... ... I aggres
sive officialdom in my head.
Eventually I heard the dinghy return and a bright,
in mind we walked into Manchioneal Village.
Manchioneal is -~.-.11 fi 1-i, -'ll- re in the parish of
Portland on the e .- I -1 i ...... about 22 kilome
ters from Port Antonio and 80 kilometers from Kingston.
It is set at the foot of the John Crow Mountains in a rich,
green landscape with an abundance of fruit trees and
small vegetable plots. The village, which straddles a
main road, has several small shops, 'n-111;-1.1: clothes
shop, a hardware store and a post 11. ... I many
rudely-built huts housing bars, or eateries serving deli
cious dishes of fish, chicken, pork or goat.
Fishing boats line the shore behind the shops and
there is usually someone there mending nets, prepare
ing for a trip or, if you are lucky, bringing in their
catch. Many of the homes are small, roughly built
houses with patched roofs and walls, and little furni
ture. People gather in small groups outside the stores
or bars to pass the time of day and occupants of pass
ing cars call out greetings as they go. The beat of loud
music sets your pace as you walk along. But there is
no public telephone!
We went into a general store to enquire about how
we could make our call and explained that we needed
to let our son, in England, know that we were safe. The
lady in the shop insisted we use her mobile phone to
call and wanted no payment. She was very friendly; we
stayed chatting for some time and thereafter always
visited when we were passing.
At first we were amazed by this generosity but soon
came to realise that this is the Jamaican way. If you
need help with anything in Jamaica you will find it.
Continued on next page
Continued from previous page
The warmth and kindness of the people here is appar
We soon realized that our intended two nights in
Manchioneal would be longer as we had to send to the
UK for an engine part. We were quite happy as we
were already starting to feel at home. We went to tell
our friends at the police station and they made us feel
very welcome, i"in- us the use of their shower facili
ties, allowing ,- I .11 our water ;;' : n1 to dispose of
our rubbish at the station and 11 .... any help we
might need. A few days later they invited us to the
Inspector's birthday party where we were fed on goat
curry, roast fish and endless beer and rum! As news
got around that we were stuck many people told us
theywe: i., ,i i vere staying and asked if we
needed ... II.... .- i usto dropbyforachat.
We settled down for our stay. Manchioneal harbour
is protected by a natural wall of ancient coral; it has a
large reef just inside the entrance to starboard, and a
river flowing in at the southwestern corner. It is, how
ever, open to the southeast and in certain conditions
can be very rolly, .i1i. .. we were comfortable for all
but three or four I I the three weeks we stayed
there. With only local fishing boats using the harbour
there is little need for a dinghy dock, so at first we
beached our inflatable dinghy outside the police sta
tion when we went ashore. Once we realized that secu
rity was not an issue we began to take the dinghy into
the river and leave it tied amongst the fishing boats,
always with our air pump and fuel cans on board and
never locked. The only outcome of which was that a
fisherman asked if he could borrow the pump to inflate
some fenders, having no other means of doing so.
The entrance to the river is quite tricky, with stony
shallows extending from each bank leaving only a nar
row gap to navigate. Once through, the waters are
calm and the mangroves ahead, where dozens of
egrets roost at night, give a feeling of tranquillity. On
the starboard bank is Manchioneal Fishing Village, a
small community; separate from the main village, and
-nnnAnr-rl h11 '-prl thp Pnnr'
dinghy, through the mangroves and the brackish
water they so love, until we reached fresh, crystal clear
water. Here we would sometimes meet others, who
had come for the same purpose, and pass the time of
day. I don't think I have e-,r -ni--1" -in- the laun
dry so much (the sheer .. ... . ....i I,, i rinsing
water!). And bathing was wonderful, our hair so soft
after washing in such pure water. We didn't use the
police showers once!
Our days were filled, once the jobs were done, with
swimming from the boat, trips into the village, and
long walks in the surrounding countryside, stopping
along the way to talk to all manner of folk. Jamaican
people are very direct in their approach and conversa
tion evolves easily about all sorts of things; life, poli
tics, cricket, the sea.
We found that people talked with pride about
their country, of its beauty and its bounty and of
how its reputation as a -in. -r- country is
unfounded. In fact most I II. .ime centres
around Kingston and much of it between rival
-,n:- in small areas of the city.
took a day out to travel by bus to Kingston and
found the atmosphere relaxed and the people we met
helpful. We certainly didn't feel threatened at any
time, even when we were lost on the outskirts of the
city, looking for the chandlery which, incidentally, is
very well stocked. Portland, the district in which both
Port Antonio and Manchioneal lie, has the lowest
crime rate in Jamaica with the majority of its crime
being petty theft and domestic incidents. The locals
take great pride in this and actively work to keep it so.
Eventually it was time to move on and we made our
way to Port Antonio. We spent a few days at the Errol
Flynn Marina, which is well run by a congenial man
ager and has vcl- :- f1 -.l ::t hn-lI-:.n. i ll
swimming pool i i i ..
The town itself is a bustling i i
phere and a market with the i i1 -.I I i i .
we have seen for a long time, with all but the apples
and grapes being locally grown. The supermarket has
mnt thin that nnp nmiht nIrl
At Manchioneal, every Sud they have a laid back get together with a 'cook up', and we were always included
At Manchioneat, every Sunday they have a Laid back get together with a cook up', and wue wuere always included
The fishing community here is like a big family and
we were made to feel part of that family during our
stay. Every Sunday they have a get-together with a
"cook up" during the afternoon and early evening, and
we were always included. We were treated to delicious
fish soup and baked fish with rice and peas, all sim-
ply cooked on an open fire and worthy of any good
restaurant. The atmosphere was always very laid back
and the air filled with music and laughter.
It wa' -lurin one of these gatherings that the fish
ermen -I I 'I they could look at our charts, having
none of their own, to find banks within their 80-mile
radius where there might be good fishing. We were
delighted to be given the chance to repay some of their
kindness and spent a happy afternoon i I.... way
points with them, while being plied with I I hope
the later ones are accurate!)
The river was also the place to do our laundry and
to bathe. We would go about a mile upstream, in the
Again we were met with kindness and felt welcome
wherever we went but, of course, we wouldn't expect
anything less from our Jamaican hosts! Time after
time people asked us to pass the word that Jamaica is
not the bad place it is reputed to be and asked us to
invite other cruisers to come and see for themselves.
In particular the people in Manchioneal invite you to
visit their harbour! We shall certainly return.
Should you decide to visit Manchioneal, you should
clear in at Port Antonio and get a cruising permit. As you
enter the harbour, keep close to the rocks on your port
side where the water is deep. The fishermen take a tran
sit on those rocks and the police station (a square white
building with a blue base) where you can anchor safely.
The water by the river mouth is shallow and there are
reefs, clearly visible, to starboard. It is possible to navi
gate safely closer to the village. Should any boats come
towards you as you enter, don't worry, they are only
curious and will pilot you in if you ask for help.
We spent afew days at the Erol Flynn Marina
which is well run by a congenial manager and
has very good facilities I I
Sh-rr;r afternoon was spent plotting waypoints
ShI, ji shermen
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Phone (784) 458-3458
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Admiralty Bay, Bequia
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Information & Reservation: (473) 444-4247
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amta@islandreamnsgrenada corn tel: 473 443 3603 or473 415 2138
t's April 24th at 0630 hours. I'm sitting in our
cockpit trying to sort out the blur of the past
week. After 17 months of cruising from Baltimore
to Trinidad and back to the Leewards, it's hard to
think of ourselves as rookies. But, given the events of
the past week, I'm not sure what else to think.
A couple months ago, we received an e-mail from our
i .- ... that he and his wife were going to be in
i .. i week. The company for which Pat works
holds a meeting each year at a resort location, inviting
those employees judged to have made the largest con
tribution to the company's success. This year the
meeting was at the St. Kitts Marriott and Pat was
invited. We tossed out our plans for the Antigua
Classic Yacht Regatta and started to plan for St. Kitts.
We know St. Kitts reasonably well. We knew, for
example, there is a good area to beach a dinghy in
South Friar's Bay near Shipwreck's Bar and Grill.
Shipwreck's has a beach with chaise chairs, thatch
umbrellas and a swim raft. The south end of the beach
makes a great 1,..1, landing area. The spot is only a
short cab ride ... I. Marriott and the anchorage is
usually very calm. Great spot. If we anchored in South
Friar's Bay on Sunday evening, did our provisioning
on Monday, we would be ready for Pat's arrival on
Tuesday afternoon. We had a recommendation from
to have a machine shop drill a hole where the thread
ed end had broken off and secure the pin with a stain
less bolt coming up from the bottom. David gave us
the name of a machine shop which could do the job.
At this point any hope of taking Pat sailing on
Wednesday was gone. We certainly could take him out
to the boat, show off the new canvas, give him a taste of
life in an anchorage, but, the pin needed to be removed
from the gooseneck and taken to the machine shop. Ah
ha! An opportunity! We could introduce Pat to the true
nature of cruising, fixing boats in exotic places!
noon. We spent the rest of the day with Pat, showing
him some of St. Kitts. We left him late afternoon to
attend to a business commitment of his own and got
back to the boat without any trouble.
The next day, the weather report was not encourage
ing. The wind was still moving to the south and per
haps the southwest. If the gooseneck had not been
apart, we probably would have moved the boat. But
the part would be ready soon and, with any luck, we
' i ii,. i, i I i. ... 1 . the morning. Thenwe
( ',I ... i ,, i
by John Rowland
Above: The marooned crew flanking Robin, who runs the Shipweck Bar and adopted them for the duration
an acquaintance in Nevis for a cab service which he
uses for his business clients and South Friar's was a
known anchorage. We had a plan.
We anchored in South Friar's on Sunday, contacted
our cab service, Seamoss, on VHF 16 on Monday
morning and the plan was off and running. Provisions
tucked away on Monday --'nin. Tn. --nt on deck
to take a few pictures of ...1i,, -....- Atherfeet
she found what appeared to be the end of a broken
bolt, castle nut and cotter pin intact. A serious end to
a serious bolt.
We looked about the :....... finding that the piece
was the threaded end I 11 pin in the gooseneck
which holds the boom piece to the part attached to the
mast. The pin was still in place but not secured -very
scary. In the back of my mind, I considered that our
plan might be getting off track.
I took dimensions of the pin, as best I could with it
still in place, and made a sketch. We had already
arranged for Seamoss to pick us up at noon on
Tuesday, giving us the opportunity to run some
errands before we met Pat at the hotel in the late after
noon. Obviously a trip to a boatyard or chandlery
needed to be added to the list.
Seamoss took us to Indigo Yachts where I met with
David Ridsdale-Saw. David shattered my hopes that
this pin was a standard part and readily available.
(See how my rookie thinking haunts me?) David and I
talked about options, deciding the most practical was
Left: Silver Seas alone in the bay -and inaccessible
We met Pat at the hotel for dinner and left him
with instructions to meet us at Shipwreck's at 9:30
the next morning. By the time the cab dropped us
off at the dinghy, Shipwreck's was closed and the
beach was pretty dark. There seemed to be a bit of
a surf up but we simply started our normal dinghy
We pushed her in deep enough to drop the engine, I
jumped in to start it while Nancy held it secure, but,
before I could pull the cord, a four-foot wall of black
water, filled with sand and turtle grass, threw the
dinghy into the air right over Nancy, and threw me out
into the surf. The next wave swamped the dinghy, fill
ing her with water and turtle grass. We dragged our
selves up onto the beach, ... -1.1 ......i i. i i.gon
to the painter, and pulled 1. i .1 .. 'i i .-... I We
bailed her out and tried again, only to be swamped
again. On the third try we got her launched and, very
wet and ankle-deep in water, headed for the boat.
We were concerned. This beach, in our experience,
never had breakers. When we reached the boat, we
checked the jury rig on the boom and turned in, leav
ing any further considerations for the morning.
The next morning, we listened to the weather fore
cast carefully. The accumulation of weather coming off
the US was forming a weak low pressure system north
of the Virgin Islands and the winds were clocking
around to the south. Obviously, we needed to keep an
eye on that situation. We cleaned out the dinghy and
went in to pick up Pat.
There was a bit of sur I .. i i ,,, ii what we had
encountered the night i 1 ii Iad become a
bit rolly and, when we got Pat aboard, he had a diffi
cult time with the motion of the boat. We removed the
pin, jury-rigged the gooseneck back together and got
our slightly seasick visitor back to land.
Seamoss picked us up at the pre-arranged time and
delivered us to the machine shop. The Sugar Factory
is a remnant from the now shutc' :'1- industry
of St. Kitts. The young man in I.' I the shop,
Lucky, understood exactly what I needed and my
sense of urgency ("I have a boat that is in pieces"). He
promised the part would be ready early the next after
We ran the dinghy in at the appointed time to meet
Seamoss. We made sure we pulled her up past the high
tide point and tied a line onto the Hobie Cat which rest
ed next to her on the beach. We had planned to meet
Pat and his wife for dinner (Dana arrived late that after
noon) so, hedging against any issue with landing the
dinghy, we packed a change of clothes in Ziplocs.
The part was ready on time, very well done, and at a
reasonable cost. On the way back to meet the kids we
decided not to have dinner with them, but instead to
get back to the boat in daylight and get ready to do the
repairs in the morning. Seamoss picked us up at the
hotel at five, -... ... 1 His wife and daughter were
with him. W( I II I Shipwreck's with the newly
Ir. I ... I I ... .. 1 i i ... . e ailing boat.
.. .... .1 ,i I .' pandem oni
um! Robin, who runs the place, and one of the patrons
were in the surf -now a very substantial surf -try
ing to pull our dinghy back to shore. Apparently the
surf had risen, grabbed the dinghy and dragged it out.
The dinghy had 1. .. 1 the Hobie Cat ten or 12 feet
and then turtled 11 had not tied the line on the
Hobie Cat, the i....1. i 1 bly would have been
halfway to Cuba i ... .. knew it was gone.
The guys had righted her and were pulling her back
in when we arrived. We helped pull the dinghy out of
the surf, bailed her out a ,l -t 1. .nd the Hobie Cat
up on shore, out of the : -r-.i
Over the course of the day, the i i i i ... .'
to the west. With literally hundreds of miles of fetch,
even this light wind had turned South Friar's Bay into
. ii. monster and was driving a six to eight foot
-... i ..I the beach at Shipwreck's.
We decided to make an attempt to launch the
dinghy. You can guess the result: Nancy under the
dinghy with me thrown clear before I could pull the
cord, just like the previous '--nin .-.rFt this time
we had an audience! When I -... i i i. ... under the
wave that swamped us, Robin and Seamoss were in
the surf trying to help Nancy. Seamoss's wife (in her
business suit which she had worn to the office that
day) was in the surf trying to control the dinghy.
Continued on next page
Continued from previous page
There were more folks around, but they faded into a blur of noise and motion as I
S. 1 1 I get to the 1.... 1i.. ...1. the crashing waves.
i ,. commotion. .. I ....-.. died away, several things were clear to us.
First, our boat was three-quarters of a mile out in the rolling bay, behaving like a
metronome gone mad, and there was no way for us to get to her. Next, until condi
tons changed, we were marooned on St. Kitts.
The next theeree days were an odd mixture of fear, frustration and adventure. The
folks at Shipwreck's sort of adopted us. They helped us find a hotel, gave us rides and
provided -;--;;r..--. t where they could. They are probably still talking about us.
Each d: I I. I three da- t t -i.1irvreck's first thing in the morn
ing. We would assess the level of i. -... .. i occasions trying to launch the
dinghy with varied degrees of disaster. After we were sure we couldn't launch, we
would sit on the beach and watch our boat bounce like a cork for awhile. We were
concerned that our jury rig on the boom would hold up, concerned that we had
stowed things well enough to deal with the now rolling bay (we had expected to be
Above: Shipwreck's Bar and Grill on South Friar's Bay has a beach with chaise
chairs, thatch umbrellas and a swim raft. The south end of the beach makes a great
dinghy landing area
Below: At least being marooned gives you time to do t tl riti -- -h ff
Sightseeing in St.' ... ...
gone for only four or five hours),
concerned that our anchor
would hold. At least the wind
generator would keep the refrig
erator and lights on, but we our
selves were powerless.
We spent as much time as we I ,h
could with Pat and Dana We did
a bit of tourist type stuff and
just "hung out" a bit. The little
hotel we were in was on Frigate
Bay, on the beach. There were
some interesting beach bars and
restaurants in that area. The
Shiggidy Shack has superb
grilled lobster at very reasonable
prices. Down the beach,..
had a most interesting .... I w
patrons: tourists, locals, stu
dents and some castaways like
us. They had some good live
music and, on Sunday morning,
they even serve breakfast. Had
we been looking for a three day
land vacation, this spot would
have been a great place for it.
By Sunday, the wind had
backed around to the south and
the bay had started to calm. We
arrived at Shipwreck's early. The
surf was still too high to launch
the 1... 1. We needed to find a
way were frustrated and
tired of wearing the same
clothes for days (thank God we
had packed a spare set that first day) and too worried about the boat to let anything
stop us from getting to her.
We took the two painters on the dinghy, each 25 feet long, and tied them end to
end, adding the two lines we use to 1. ii. I...i. 1.i. ire halyard. Our intention
was to swim this long line out to the ....... ,,, I I I, area and pull the dinghy
out to the raft, out of the breaking surf. Unfortunately, we didn't have enough line.
About then, Robin showed up with a 200 foot line. He and his staff were in early
to prepare for a filming session for a publicity piece being done on the area. He still
took the time to give us the hand we needed. I tied the end of Robin's line to ours,
swam the other end out to the raft, ran it i .... ihe eye where the raft's anchor
was attached and swam back in with the e., I I1 l line. Robin, Nancy and I then
pulled the dinghy through the surf, out to the raft. Nancy and I swam out, secured
I,.i. i. with our line, disconnected Robin's line and went to work.
Ii ..... minutes the dinghy was bailed, engine started and we were on our way
back to our boat.
We had been very lucky. There was no damage, nothing had been tossed about in
any of the cabins, and our jury rig was reasonably secure. With the bay still rolling
significantly, it took over an hour to get the components of the gooseneck aligned so
that we could put in the pin and secure it.
That done, we pulled up the anchor and moved down to Ballast Bay where it was
much calmer. We stayed in Ballast for a couple of days, checking everything out,
then sailed down to Charlestown, Nevis, to really test the rig.
All is well now. The pieces of this jigsaw puzzle we call a life seem to be back in
place. We are sailors again, not castaways. I'm not sure what Pat and his wife think,
but at least we gave them some stories to share back home.
Anyway, if you are ever in Shipwreck's on St. Kitts and someone starts talking
about the couple who were marooned, you know the story.
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cruise through St. Vincent, Grenada and the Grenadines.
Come alongside our splendid jetty and replenish your
supplies of FUEL, OIL, WATER and ICE
at the cheapest prices in the Grenadines.
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the East Coast
Now that the Tobago Cays are a National Park and an entry fee (EC$10 per person
per day) is being charged, sailors will be 1--1ni; for alternative unspoiled anchor
ages. On the windward side of Carriacou, .i .... and Grand Bays are superb reef
protected anchorages. But they are seldom visited by yachts because of Grenadian
Customs regulations. The requirement for the yacht to be present &.i IiI ...
on the opposite side of the island, to clear Customs is the major : ..
yachts visit the east coast of Carriacou.
If coming from the south coast of Grenada and heading north to Carriacou, the
easy way is to sail up Grenada's east coast. (See sailing directions on the back of the
Imray Iolaire chart B32; the 2007 edition gives detailed sailing directions and analy
sis 01 i ... Grenada to Carriacou the hard way, via the west coast). The easy
rout, I opportunity to stop at some of the wonderful deserted anchorages
on the east coast of Grenada. From the Sandy Island off Grenada's northeast coast,
it is usually an easy reach to an ... 1. . I Saline Island just south of Carriacou;
to White Island is a 14 mile cour- I I .... a weather going tide, this should be
a fast two to two and a half hour close reach, versus a four hour slog to windward
from Tanga Langa on Grenada's west coast.
After anchoring at Saline Island, a short beat the next day would take you to
Kendeance Point at the southern entrance to Grand Bay aI 1 i
Kendeance Point to the northern end of Carriacou there are :...I I -I, I ,
behind reefs, ,i .... i ,.. -. too numerous to list. (See Street's Guide Martinique to
Triniddad, pag I i, I detailed sketch charts and sailing directions.)
So far, so good. The problem arises if you intend to carry on northward from
Watering Bay into the waters of St. Vincent & the Grenadines. At present, Customs
regulations require you clear out of Grenada by bringing your boat to Hillsborough
Harbour. This means a beat to windward to the north coast of Carriacou, a reach
around the top of the island, and then a leg south to Hillsborough. After clearing out,
from Hillsborough its a sail north to Union to enter SVG waters.
Similarly if --ain to Carriacou from Union Island and wishing to visit Watering
Bay, instead I ...- directly there you must first head south to Hillsborough,
anchor, enter, then back-track north, beat to windward around the top end of
Carriacou, then head south to Watering Bay.
I would like to suggest that yachts coming from the north be permitted to anchor
in Watering Bay straightaway. The skipper could then take a bus from Windward to
Hillsborough to clear in (which will give a wonderful scenic tour of Carriacou). Then
he could cruise south to Grand Bay, Saline Island and Tyrell Bay. Equally, the skip
per of a y. I, .1int .- watI .rd should be able to clear out of Grenada waters by
taking the I y. o i ... ... I .- I to Hillsborough.
Yachts often anchor in Tyrell Bay, then the skipper takes a taxi or bus to
Hillsborough to enter or clear out. This seems to be acceptable most of the time, but
occasionally a Customs or Immigration Officer insists that the yacht come to
Hillsborough to enter or clear out.
Similarly, yachts could be allowed to anchor in Watering Bay, and the skipper hop
on a bus to Hillsborough to enter or clear. But at this time, this scenario is impos-
sible; I was told in April 2006 that this was absolutely illegal: skippers must anchor
their boats in Hillsborough to clear in or out (or anchor in Tyrell Bay and bus to
U .i1 I .1,
eI' ,- '1 I ir the Marine and Yachting Association of Grenada and the Tourist
Board to get together and persuade the Customs Department to allow yacht skip
pers i i i .,1 I ,, i ind to complete entry or exit formalities, when their
yacht I I Bay. This would offer yachts a superb alternative
to the crowded Tobago Cays and also include the community of Windward in the
benefits of yachting tourism tat are now enjoyed by the people of Harvey Vale at
Trell Bay.Ipotniyt tpa oe ftewnefldeetdacoae
*. ...ii. ....
by Karen Bradbeer
The Caribbean current is what makes the formation of the Bocas del Toro archi
pelago unique. The current runs at about two to three knots setting towards the
east and the country of Panama itself lies from east to west, unlike what most peo
The Bocas del Toro archipelago is inside the main current that runs along the
Panamanian coastline. The fact that almost all of the islands are sheltered by the
cup formation of the coastline and protected by the hump of Colon makes them
more popular with cruising sailors. This archipelago is well protected by large bar
rier islands with other islands.
The popularity of the Bocas del Toro archipelago has risen as the word is broad
cast by SSB from cruiser to cruiser with the secret hope that only those who really
desire such a paradise are begged to visit. Since the current is strong, the inside
islands give protection to the various indigenous Indians who live there. Cruising
sailors are starting to fii. I 11 i -1. ...... 11- ... te islands with the Indians is inter
testing and unique. The : ., .. I i ... is not only visual, but aural, offer
ing varied .ii..;. .... i-. of the many tropical birds, monkeys, sloths, and bats that
live in its 1 i. ..ore could a cruiser need than the basics (plentiful rainwa
ter for drinking, easy foraging and fishing) with an infrastructure to make entering
and exiting easy by vessel, launch, bus, or airplane?
Bocas del Toro is considered a Port of Entry and maintains a Port Captain for
clearing from outside countries; no agent is needed. The -1-ri;; i-r-- ss is easy;
call on VHF 16 to the Port Captain during the office hot.. i .... to 4:30PM,
Monday to Friday (overtime fees are applicable outside normal hours). All yachts are
welcome for a three-month cruising period. The cruising permit for the vessel can
be extended every three months on an unlimited basis. Immigration grants cruisers
a stay of three months, which can be extended for an additional three months before
having to exit the country.
There have been some
recent changes in
Immigration law in
Panama; if any affect
cruisers, we'll have the
news in next month's
Compass. Hopefully you'll
be able to stick around and
enjoy Bocas Town, above,
Sand the archipelago's
great diving, left
There are two marinas in Bocas del Toro, Careening Cay Marina (Marina
Carenero), www.careeningcay.com, and Bocas Marina, www.bocasmarina.com.
Marina Carenero has 27 slips and has been in service since 1998. Contact on VHF
68; the owners are Mack and Mary Robertson. They have very good security, new
showers/bathrooms/laundry rooms, Internet and other services, as well as boat
maintenance services. This is particularly good for long term stays for cruisers who
need to leave their boats. Bocas Marina has 75 slips with floating docks, a small
bar/restaurant, showers/bathroom, Internet, and laundry service. They also have
boat maintenance services. Both marinas take reservations.
Bocas del Toro has excellent water taxi service for travel within the province.
There are two water taxis that cross Almirante Bay (approximately 20 to 30 minutes)
.i. v i I, i, I ,tI of David and other points in Panama. The road
:.. .......... I I...... 'IH I .. extended to David and then on out to Chirique
Grande and ending at Almirante.
Panamanian town located on the Caribbean side, close to the Costa Rican border.
Changuinola is where you can renew your visa for an extended three months, go
shopping, or cross the border into Costa Rica for travel and thereby renew your
passport's visa stamp.
There are two bus services that offer transportation to San Jose, Costa Rica, from
Sixaola via Changuinola: MEPE and the Caribenos bus line. Also, from either
Sixaola or Changuinola, car taxis can be hired to complete a journey to Almirante
Bay, where a water taxi can be taken to Bocas del Toro.
From the Bocas del Toro airport you can reach Costa Rica or Panama City. For
Panama City, David or Changuinola, there are two airlines: Aeroperlas www.aerop
erlas.com, and Air Panama, www.flyairpanama.com. For Costa Rica, there are two
airlines, Nature Air, www.natureair.com, and Air Panama. This gives cruisers many
different routes to choose from when planning land travel.
Cruisers now have a new safe haven from hurricanes in the Bocas del Toro archi
pelago. What are you waiting for?
2Wo. j. .
CalJacques Bard" for expert. adiceM I nish& tnch
Once again, my husband John and I spent
some six weeks in Dominica, having a won
derful time and seeing, first-hand, many
changes -all improvements.
In Roseau, Pancho and Seacat are coordinating
nightly security patrols and no reports of problems
have come in to the Caribbean Safety and Security Net
throughout this entir- -riin;;. season. Patricia
Linton, Marketing i- *. I the National
Development Corporation (the tourism arm for the
.f---rnmnt of Dominica), reports that collaborative
1 i ,een government and the private marine
businesses (Pancho, Seacat, the Dominica Marine
Center, the Anchorage Hotel and Dive Center and a
number of other marine-related businesses through
out the island have formed the Dominica Marine
Association) in Roseau have resulted in significant
improvements for both cruising and charter yachts.
Yachts visiting Roseau can call ahead on VHF 16 for
Pancho Services or Roots (he works for Seacat) to
make arrangements for a mooring. The Dominica
Marine Center in Roseau receives shipments from
Budget Marine in St. Martin, usually via LIAT
Quikpak, with two days' turnaround. The Center's
Hubert Winston will take care of the Customs work
and boat parts are duty-free. He stocks some supplies,
and boaters using the mooring field in Roseau can
lock their dinghies at his new dock.
Up at the north end of the island, a security patrol
is also addressing the issues in Prince Rupert Bay,
although currently just at the north end of the bay.
The newly-formed Portsmouth Association of Yacht
Security (see Compass May 2007 Info & Updates) has
hired a person to staff the patrol boat and he is on
station every night between dusk and dawn. He has
a large spotlight and a handheld VHF radio and cell
phone -we saw him on several occasions. He can
call any one of the members of PAYS for assistance,
should that be necessary, as well as contact the
Portsmouth police. The patrol boat itself was an
anonymous donation to PAYS, as was the 15-horse
power outboard. In additi-. if 1. -- out on deck
during the night, Jan: i I I B&B Yachts
Services turns on his outside lights and takes a good
PAYS would like to extend the security patrol to the
Changes in the Wind
by Melodye Pompa
south end of the bay, for those who choose to anchor
near the Portsmouth Beach Hotel, but funding does
not yet cover those additional costs. The patrol was on
station until the end of June and will resume some
time in November; however, if there are any yachts at
anchor during July through October, someone will
man the patrol boat.
Faustin Alexis is the president of PAYS, Helen Hepp
of Cabrits Dive Center is secretary, and, as indicated
in the May issue of Compass, Jan is treasurer. Other
members include most of the Indian River Guides (13
of them, at last count) as well as local businesses
including Max Taxi Tours, Big Papa's Restaurant, Blue
Bay Restaurant, the Purple Turtle Restaurant, and
B&B Yacht Services. These members subsidize the
Continued on next page
Conlal J(1ohn Lou i. 87-1713 ",(144 8-7-8-1-4412
e-mail: inio' errolil nnniamrina.t(om \ HF (Clhannel 16
i\ n i\.errol ll nnnlarina.tom (1
Continued from previous page
We were invited ..i i 1. -1 .i.1 I i. i .i.. ia Etiene at the Purple Turtle
and attend a meeti, I1 I ,I, ....... I (Faustin, Helen, Jan, Martin,
Eddison and Patricia) to discuss progress to date and future plans. They are enthu
siastic and full of great ideas, so things look good for next season.
Jan himself has been in Prince Rupert Bay for two seasons now and has developed
a business ol i i .... ... ny of the service -..... achts need. He can arrange
propane refill- I ......... and European ...I i. ... Dominica Marine Service in
Roseau. He has installed a water pipe
leading out to a mooring just in front of
Big Papa's where you can take on water
at the least expensive rate we've found.
In addition, he can arrange laundry, ice,
garbage disposal, receiving of duty-free
parts (he will take care of ordering,
Customs clearance, and pick-up at
Canefield Airport), as well as a range of
repair services. Our fridge was failing to
cool and the fellow he sent out to us was
quick, competent and reasonably priced.
On the communications side, the
Purple Turtle has wireless Internet out--
to the bay, through HOTHOTHOT.
Subscriptions are daily, weekly or
monthly, and you can carry the user ID
on to Antigua, Les Saintes, Bequia,
Grenada and a number of other islands.
The Portsmouth Market is still the
best in the Caribbean in terms of selec
tion, quantity, fresh quality and price.
It starts early Saturday morning -you
can hear the conch horn announcing
fresh fish for sale. You need to get there
early, and I mean early, because every
thing closes up by mid-morning.
Trash pickup is now three days a
week: Monday, Wednesday and
Saturday. There is no longer a garbage
tip at the town dock/bus park. Jan can
arrange to have your trash picked up
from your boat; there are several surf The new PAYS security patrol boat in Pr
boarders who will do this, or you can
carry it in (those mornings only before
10:00AM) to the street in front of Big Papa's.
There seems to be lots of construction going on all over the island. In
Portsmouth alone, the single-lane bridge between town and the Blue Bay
Restaurant is being widened to two lanes and the road straightened. In town, the
water company is laying new lines, and, in the process, repaving Bay Street and
putting in new sidewalks. Traffic moves in different patterns depending on which
section they are working, and walking down the street is sometimes a challenge!
The damage from the November 2004 earthquakes at the hospital and the
Methodist Church is all cleaned up. St. John's School has most of its classrooms
refurbished and hopes to have the rest of the class space as well as the kitchen and
the library available for use by January of 2008. The lot where the St. John's Church
stood has been cleared and a small parish hall constructed, which is presently being
used for services, until the church itself can be rebuilt. Sadly, the Roosevelt Douglas
Government School students are still sharing space with the Portsmouth Secondary
School students, and the only visible
progress toward rebuilding the Douglas
school is the razing of the old, severely
damag--1 1-Itl -ln.1
To I.-I I ... .. report in the
Compass, the new dock at the mouth of
the Indian River was not funded by the
Indian River guides, but by the
National Development Corporation,
through financing from the European
The Indian River dock is finished,
although it is only necessary for yachts
to tie their dinghies there if you are
walking to the bank or the gas station
in that area, or if there are swells in the
i lIbay, as there are a number of other
docks: Purple Turtle, Big Papa's, Blue
Bay, and the town dock. There is a
bank and a gas station just up the
street from the town dock.
Your dinghy can be locked at any of
these, however, be careful on the south
side of the town dock: they started to
cut up and carry away the big freighter
that was beached there, but the wreck
fell apart and pieces of the hull are
strewn from the end of the dock along
The Longhouse Pier, where yachts
clear Customs in Prince Rupert Bay, is
under construction and being expand
Rupert Bay, Dominica ed. As part of the overall extension of
the pier, there are plans to build one,
and maybe two, dinghy landings. That
will certainly make it easier getting to the Customs office, and a dramatic change
from climbing over old tires.
Pancho, Roots, Martin and Cobra all agree that this has been the best season yet
for yachting in Dominica: lots of boats stopping and many staying for more than
overnight. Jan claims he counted 66 boats at anchor one night between Portsmouth
and the Cabrits cruise ship dock.
A s a summertime cruising destination, Tobago
has it all or nothing at all, depending on how
you look at it.
If you like a natural tropical environment, a choice
of undeveloped anchorages, a broad range of diving
and hiking opportunities, cultural events such as
bumboat races, goat races and the Heritage Festival,
and the idea of cruising below the usual hurricane
belt, Tobago has it all. If you like to be away from
crowds, the appeal grows even stronger.
All was buzzing in Store Bay when we arrived in
Tobago on May 12th. The island's premiere annual
regatta was a magnet for boats from neighboring
islands; the anchorage was alive with race boats, their
dinghies and mother ships, and other craft attracted
by the event. The Regatta Village on the grounds of the
Crown Point Hotel was jumping.
The sprawling Hilton Tobago Resort, where we were
welcomed for our shoreside stay, was full of
Trinidadian families treating Mom to a special
Mother's Day week-end. In the evening, the open-air
Tartaruga restaurant at Buccoo served up world-class
Italian cuisine to tables of appreciative diners. The
next night, "Sunday School" -a street party with
craft stalls, rum shops and live steel pan music
.. ... th tourists and locals. We lunched well at
I ., .... and at the food court by the public beach
at Store Bay, where it was hard to find a free table.
Dinner at Patino's on Sunday was impressive. Yes,
tourism is strong in Tobago.
But when we ventured up the winding country road
along the northwest coast, enticing coves such as
Castara and Englishman's Bay were empty. Not one
yacht. The palm trees were waving invitingly. The water
was calm and oh-so-clear. The beaches were long,
sandy, clean and not overdeveloped by any stretch of the
:,, ..,, .. I1. sole establishment on Englishman's
I. little beach bar, which was closed. A
lone Rastaman hung some handmade bamboo wind
chimes in a shade tree, hoping for the day's sale.
Why were these and other apparently perfect
Okay, sailing to Tobago from the rest of the island
chain can be a long struggle against wind and current.
And o ,, ; I 1, 'ou must mind the special
yacht I .. .. i.... ..i (see sidebar).
And lying along a northeast to southwest axis, at
only a slight ....1 I the northeast tradewinds,
there is no rea I .. I" side. Many lovely anchor
ages can become untenable in times of strong
The Unsung Summer Place
by Sally Erdle
What's missing in this picture? Marinas, moorings, docks and other paraphernalia or just you and your yacht
swinging peacefully at anchor?
north winds and big swells. But the good news is November through March. Chris Doyle's Cruising
that in the summer, the trades tend to mellow out Guide to Trinidad & Tobago lists more than a dozen
and come more from the east or even southeast, anchorages from which to choose, depending on
and the big swells are normally felt only from prevailing conditions...
For those who demand the very best,
Doyle Caribbean's 5/50 Construction.
5 years 50,000 miles
Brtish rgin Islands
Road Reef Marina, Tortola
Tel: 12841494 2569
Fax: 12841494 2034
E-mail: b'ntido Iec-aribtear corn
W~lds~n Ib~rkJ Sotr
W&&Wsfhl midi M3W Bola
Sl *":, L .ri<
,be Soto, $4ca
6 Crossroads, St. P'IhiD
Tel: (2461) 4234600
Fax: 12461 423 4499
E-mail: aiy4dlolecaritbear' corn
&lffirm L SMUI4
-1gs E-1 bi
B etpul Ysdt Ctrt)
...and notes that inside the harbor wall,
is nearly always comfortable.
Although south of the usual path of h
island was hit in 1847 and 1963.
And :i.... still part of daily life
many ci I and coves, you might
anchor wherever you wish due to the a
seine fishermen. Some might find this a
According to Doyle, Englishman's Bay m
a spectacular anchorage... the scenery h
gorgeous.' Yacht count on May 13th, 200
while others see it as an increasing
Some cruisers might also find the lack
ities a drawback. There is as yet no ma
a permanent dinghy dock (although
appears just for the regatta). Fuel and
Si about the possibility of futu
ities in Tobago with the Hon. Neil Wils
and Norris Jack, Executive Advisor, of t
Tourism of the Tobago House of Assemb
Scarborough said that his division, with advice from the national
Yacht Steering Committee (of which Mr. Jack is also a
hurricanes, the member), have looked at proposals for a marina to
provide a fuel/water dock and waste disposal facili
in Tobago. In ties, and are studying the entire coast to find the best
not be able to location for yachts with the least potential for environ
activities of the mental damage. Although some interests feel the deci
n annoyance, sion process is moving slowly, Mr. Wilson noted that
because Trinidad & Tobago is one
country, with wealth from oil and gas,
as compared to island nations more
dependent on tourism alone, 'We can
afford to wait and do it right. We are
very conscious of what a bad decision
can do. We don't propose to compro
mise our environment for whatever
material gains Our environment is
+h, 1,- arwe have, and Tobago is
I ....B... 1 It's up to the weather to
keep it green our job is to keep it
clean and pristine."
SHe added, "We will have to convince
the people of Tobago that we are doing
everything to protect the environ
ment. To some, yachts seem to repre
sent pollution of the bays. The public
needs to learn that yachting can be a
f yhclean activity." Cruisers can help. It's
S~5 a r mentioned in the Boaters' Directory
*.t that "There has been much controver
sy concerning the pollution of the
cruisers. The Marine Park Office has
asked cruisers to... n i, i.,
heads or holding tanks ,,I.. I
ere is Seems like a reasonable request. If you can comply
7: zero with that and can take the trouble to get there, and if
natural beauty is more alluring to you than services,
gly rare "old try cruising Tobago this summer. You might even take
a buddy boat with you just for company. This
of yacht facil Caribbean isn't overcrowded yet.
rina, not even Thanks to Sharon McIntosh of the Yacht Services
one magically Association of Trinidad & Tobago, Candice Imam of the
vater must be Tourism Development Company, and Avion Hercules of
Tobago's Division ofTourism for making my first visit to
re yacht facil Tobago such an excellent one.
on, Secretary, For more information visit
he Division of www.boatersenterprise.com, www.doyleguides.com
ly. Mr. Wilson and www.visittobago.gov.tt.
If coming from abroad, go directly with your yacht to
one of Tobago's ports of entry, Scarborough or
Charlotteville, to check in first with Customs and then
with Immigration. Directly means with no delays, and
applies every day, including official holidays, at any
hour of the day or night. The whole crew should pres
ent themselves at check-in. When you clear in, let the
Customs officer know all the harbors you wish to visit.
It's proper to fly your Q flag from the starboard
spreader until cleared by Immigration; then replace it
with the Trinidad & Tobago courtesy flag. Note that
when you leave Tobago, you must clear out at the same
port of entry where your checked in. If you clear in at
Tobago and plan to clear out in Trinidad, let Customs
and Immigration in Tobago know so that they can send
the appropriate paperwork to Trinidad with you.
Customs will charge you TT$50 (about US$8)
Navigation Dues per month. You pay for the first
month when you clear in, and any additional when
you clear out. There are no other fees to clear in or out
of Trinidad & Tobago. There are, however, overtime
charges. To avoid them, time your arrival to clear in on
a weekday between 0800 and 1600 hours.
Immigration usually grants a 90-day stay upon entry.
If you wish to stay in the countr- 1 n-r request up to
180 days. If granted, you'll pay i i : -, i IVisa Waiver.
Alternatively, you may request an extension one week
prior to the end of your original 90 days; if granted, you
will pay for the Visa Waiver as above. If a crewmember is
arriving in Tobago by air, they must report to
....... ,, ,, within 24 h, ...- I -: :. on to the vessel.
11 i.a to sail to i .. I. ... Trinidad and then
return to Trinidad to clear out of the country, go to
Customs and Immigration in Trinidad before departing for
.i. ..... I rseyour entry papers. At the
i.-1 -... .. i i 11 11'11"'. show these to Customs and
Immigration in Tobago. In this case, you can leave the
boat in a r-; ;i-;-t I-.i-r .;;-1 go by bus; the whole
crew shot I i , i,..... I Trinidad, the captain
must obt ... ... i. i .. I- '1 .. customs
and Immigration endorsements. Tell n. I1. ,- if you
want to drop anchor along the north coast of Trinidad.
Handy phone numbers in Scarboroughv Customs (868)
639 2415; Immigration 639 0006; Coast Guard 639 1461.
Thanks to the Trinidad & Tobago Boaters' Directory
and Chris Doyle's Cruising Guide to Trinidad &
Tobago for information on yacht clearance.
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Almost Perfect Hi
by Julia Bartlett
I foundthis .. .. ..i i... Well, not fora
hurricane hok .I i I ,,. I ,I perfect boat for
very little money. But that's another article.
If barnacles became the latest culinary delicacy
and I wanted to cash in on the fad, I would head
straight for the nearest, --type, hurricane hole
and start a harvesting i' .. before all the other
boaters caught on. The tepid, salty, primeval soup we
usually anchor our boats in during hurricane season
is barnacle heaven. By the end of a day's diving I
could probably offer several different exotic species
because barnacles, too, are people and vary in the
types of anti-fouling they prefer. Given this variety of
poisons, together with all the other seasonings we
pour into these protected (and therefore more or less
stagnant) waters, some new, colourful and tasty
mutants must have evolved.
I wouldn't try harvesting in a fresh-water anchorage, the
Rio Dulce for example, because there are no barnacles.
Let your imagination run riot for a moment here. A
hurricane season, in the tropics with no barnacles
how cool is that? It is really a possibility. Now add
protected flat waters, where there is room to sail, 16
small and intimate marinas, inexpensive restaurants,
tiny bars with thatched roofs, stalls laden with fresh
veggies and easy access to ancient and spiritual
You can take your pick of the little marin" -qTinr
in price from US$100 to $250 per month. .'
swimming pool, Monkey Bay offers monkeys wild in
the trees above your head, some are in town and some
are a dinghy ride down the river. Most are nestled
around the elegant 85-foot-tall bridge that spans the
river linking the pueblos of Fronteras on one end and
El Relleno on the other. Or, if you prefer, you can
Continued on next page
Friendly, funky Fronteras is the main drag for cruisers summering on the Rio Dulce.
There is a bus station here if you want to travel inland
Cura, rao I "' -
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Continued from previous page
Fronteras is a vibrant marketplace for produce
from the surrounding area and tiendas stuffed
with everything a vaquero (cowboy) needs from
saddles to lariats. In between is everything else,
including Internet cafes, local restaurants, stalls
with colourful woven cloth, and the bus company
office where you can buy a ticket to Guatemala
City, a bargain at US$10 for the five-hour trip.
You have to earn the right to be in the Rio
Dulce by crossing a sand bar with a five-foot
controlling depth, from Bahia Amatique in the
Gulf of Honduras. A calm sea and shallow to
medium draft are requisites. Many boaters
make use of a spring tide to carry them across.
Once you pass the town of Livingston you enter
a spectacular gorge, El Canyon, carved out over
millennia. It is so beautiful that Dave and
Leanne, on Live Sea Lee, told me it took their
breath away. The walls are cliffs of white lime
stone rising dramatically to 350 feet, draped with
exotic plants and vines that sweep down to the
waters edge where herons wade. Far above,
hawks float dizzily in the up-drafts, ---t-hi;- -;-1
waiting. "After El Canyon, the riv .1 11
almost a disappointment," Dave said, looking
appreciatively at the paradise around him.
El Canyon in turn gives way to El Golfete, a
long narrow lake surrounded by wild jungle
from which the cries of monkeys and squawks
of parrots echo across the water.
Continued on next page
Dugout and fold up different dinghies for different folks
CLEAR SKIES FORECASTED FOR THIS SAFE HARBOR
Sen Boca Mariin, Curaao's finest privalehirbor, ha-. Ininig -..i l a.jk irn tl.kiiig and i.' ihe.- ifi
lur Li ik iet L.kazed mutEid thie hurricane belt in the protected u.ll L31. i %, in l.,iIrn r Jpplpri-,.e in.i '
a. -.icrsIl SAp.ih VWacer 11-i. S'ru Boca Marina vi coinidered *Sru i .c Mal.nn. .i .l.ac hjrilr Ihial ile 1
one of the finest and safest yachi alwborages in the Caribbean. .l4 h. ,.r, unri.
*The lr,"l .,di.ilk ed dc- l1mIn Curl j.L.
*I kilir. dJi n ki. cpi.neinrrcd in Hcllhd.
* -,.mniLrnw lirin lii 6.1' %.chtL up 9t ] 541 fi / 15 fL i fL t.
* Ecctcal power(127 jiud 22t).
SCable TV. and potable wrnr aviilial
* Marinai saf mnitilor VHF raio channEl 67 aund at available
For infoialion on rfaes and faciliies,
call (S9) 9) 560-2599
Run BhaIn' RBo 1 CI C41 .A.
El.i ,rln tw1at .lllobtN v.a i ._ PIj fl i fl**I l
www.an I a rbaruplna ianlatn omW:, *.II ** :* ^t ,
Continued from previous page
Then on and into the Rio Dulce, which connects El
Golfete to Lago Izaba' tl- 1;-.-:t 1 .1- in Guatemala.
The river, about a 1 "* i1 .... i wide and eight
miles long, is fed by intriguing tributaries lined with
l-n-r..-- .and buttressed tree trunks where islands
i i nd hyacinths drift by. The tributaries can
be followed in a dinghy to secluded lagoons where
pretty palm-thatched roofs peek out from the jungle.
The ideal place for a dip? Well, you still have to keep
an eye open for occasional, although increasingly
There are even two haul-out facilities in the Rio Dulce.
The still-under-construction Ram Marine has a conven
tional travelift and will soon have a Port Supply outlet.
Abel Boat Haul Out, San Felipe de Laura, has three rail
ways in operation and can handle catamarans.
The downsides of the Rio Dulce? They do feel the
effects of the occasional hurricane. For example, in
1998, water rushed into the river from opposing direct
tions due to Hurricane Mitch. A storm surge pushed
water up the river, meeting the rainwater runoff trying
to escape, resulting in a record rise in the water level.
However, the hills protected the river from high winds.
Emy, on ADL, told me that there has been exception
ally high water three times in the 15 years she been
m ... marina options on the Rio Dulce are sweetly
I j V and low-key. Some cruisers forget to leave
there, but that they don't get hurricane winds because
of the mountains, a similar topographical effect to
Luperon in the Dominican Republic.
The worst part of the Rio Dulce would be trying to
leave. But why would you? If you are the type whose
anchor gets sucked down into the mud, you'd be fight
ing a lost cause in this paradise so you might just as
well swing back in your hamm--l- 1n -ni--- it
The best website Ifoundfor (.il .. i .I ...
the Rio DuLce is www.mayaparadise.com. If you go to
Site Index and then to Boaters Info you will find up-to
date information on tides and crossing the bar. In the
rest of the index, you'll find just about everything else
there is to know.
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(iShmrwmrr-ui(-l~w a UHnArt i hci 0i*<1JMy
Skybird's Final Caribbean Season:
A LAID-UP BOAT
by Mary Robinson
Skybird was laid up on the hard for the 2006 hurricane season in
-ii. .......... -Trinidad. Like thousands of other yachts of every conceivable nation
I .. iI been there since April. Now it was November.
...d travel-worn, we arrived at last at Piarco airport. It was dusk. We
made our way i' ... i Customs and ......., .1. ,, together with our two specially
labelled package' I .1 parts for yactb ...i ,- These would have to be taken
"without delay" to a second Customs off ... i. .......... Our worries were
quickly alleviated by a smiling taxi driver, I ..I I I se James who spe
cialises in quality service to the yachting fraternity. We were promptly transported
to the yachting Customs office where our imports were quickly cleared; thence we
were taken straight to Skybird in the boatyard.
A tall I .r -li;' ladder had been placed . ... -1 -1 .. .. I stern for our arrival.
We had .- some 24 hours earlier ... I I I I.11 .1 any sleep during the
journey; so we got a hasty meal in the boatyard's restaurant and went straight to
sleep on our rather damp berth, leaving all problems to be solved in the morning.
Morning, in Chaguaramas, is heralded at 6:00AM by several hundred parrots.
Their squawking reveille would arouse us every day for as long as we remained in
Trinidad. It was "Parrot Time". We blinked our eyes and made our way up on deck
and down the tall stern ladder to the ground. Thence, we took our bearings and has
tened to the toilet block, dodging the occasional dollop of dog dirt that ignorant boat
owners had allowed their pets to deposit.
Between commissioning tasks, we found time to tour Trinidad's wetlands
S........ board, we brewed up a jug of coffee and assessed the situation.
Skyb.. I .-. i, Never had we seen her deck so dirty. Evidently the owner of the
next boat had commissioned a substantial amount of work to be done in his
absence. The contractor, to do him justice, had draped an old sail around his work
to minimise flying debris. Additionally, Skybird had been covered with plastic sheet
ing during her lay-up period; even so, her deck was thick with grinding dust and
wood shavings. Driving rain had converted the dust into a sort of mud. This lay so
thick on the deck that little green seedlings had begun to sprout in the scuppers.
Ropes and canvas were green with mildew and alive with ants.
Down below, things were little better. The previous year we had hired a dehu
midifier but it had been so powerful that it had caused excessive drying of the inter
nal woodwork. This year we did without the dehumidifier and paid the price in
mildew. There was also a quantity of small bugs lying dead on our berth; we never
did manage to identify them. But at least there was no evidence of cockroaches;
things could have been worse.
I went to the bot.-rr- -ffi" -hr -- --t-l n 1-- minT cmil] -fv l-m" frim
theever-charming CI .I I h. i. i i ..... I i i . .. .... I .ter
and electricityconnr 11 I I .... ...11
We began a massive clean-up operation and hired enough scaffolding for us to
wash and polish the topsides and for my husband Alan to varnish the rubbing
bands. Alan applied antifouling with rollers while I filled in any inaccessible corners
with a brush. Skybird began to look loved and cared for. We even found time to go
on one of Jesse James' sightseeing tours to the Trinidad wetlands.
Work on Skybird progressed, a launching date was arranged. We counted the
days in eager anticipation -what a delight it would be to have an operational toi
let on board once we were afloat.
One night, while still on the hard, we had gone to bed early with the intention
of being up at "Parrot Time" the following --r;;;n: The owner of a nearby vessel
arrived late from the airport, and, seeing nc -.... I 1.1 on board Skybird, he "bor
rowed" our boarding ladder. It so happened that Alan experienced an urgent call to
visit the toilet block before dawn. He stepped confidently over Skybird's stern rail.
When his foot found no ladder '..... ... ..-1 ..... position he was in danger of a
very nasty fall but managed to i .....- I .I I I board. The call of the toilet block
was becoming urgent. H, . .1 1 1 ,, He managed to lower himself down
to a scaffold plank that' ..-.-.. I I I I the deck.
So we were only too glad when launching day dawned. Skybird was scheduled
to be the first vessel put in the water that day. But first scaffolding had to be taken
down, and then another boat had to be moved before the travel hoist could reach
us. It turned out that this vessel had acquired a bees' nest under his radar; this had
to be removed before his boat could be put into the slings. What with one thing and
another, it took the whole morning before Skybird was at last lifted and slowly trun
dled the full length of the boatyard to the launching dock. There she was gently low
ered into the water. The travel-hoist driver and his team were careful and efficient.
-I ',. .'.... ..i I .. the button. Cooling water came through. We were afloat.
... .. I lieu to the Grenadines.
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i. .... i i ,. ribbean Islands with a favorable tide will make your
I .... .. .. .i 1 .1 le. The table below, courtesy Don Street author of
i I ,, I i... 1 I Ii..... J -lolaire charts, which shows the time of the meridian
I. 1 li, e moon for this and next month, will help you calculate the tides.
.I 1 I i... generally tries to run toward the moon. Th i .....
the east soon after moonrise, continues to run east until about I. i .. ., ....
reaches its zenith (see TIME below) and then runs we I ...I. ... ..
.. I I, ii ,i nadir, the tide runs eastward; l ... i I ,I I
.i ,I .. II. 11 runs I 1 Ti... ,. arelocal.
S. ... ........ tide is I i. .i i new and full moons.
For more nfonration, see', ... ... .. .. the back of all Imray lolaire charts.
July 2007 21 1722 11 1054
DATE TIME 22 1804 12 1145
1 0029 23 1848 13 1232 (new)
2 0124 24 1936 14 1316
3 0216 25 2027 15 1357
4 0306 26 2122 16 1437
5 0354 27 2218 17 1517
6 0441 28 2314 18 1558
7 0528 29 0000 (full) 19 1642
8 0617 30 0008 20 1728
9 0707 31 0100 21 1817
10 0805 August 2007 22 1910
11 0904 1 0150 23 2004
12 1007 2 0238 24 2100
13 1109(new) 3 0325 25 2155
14 1209 4 0414 26 2248
15 1303 5 0505 27 2340
16 1353 6 0559 28 0000 (full)
17 1439 7 0657 29 0029
18 1521 8 0758 30 0119
19 1602 9 0859 31 0208
20 1641 10 0958
by Stephen "Nara" Bourassa
I've always gotten along well with whales. Of all the
creatures of the sea, they are the most fascinating,
with their grand size, playful nature, and deep soul
After cruising 34 years, I've had many close encoun
ters with these intelligent animals. Like a large whale
aground on the coral reef off Andros in the Bahamas.
He was 11" .-1.... his tail furiously trying to dislodge
himself :. ... 11 reef, the sea around him discolored
Or a female killer whale, swimming in a 200-meter
circle, t 1,i.-- '-'ewborn to swim. When I attempt-
ed to .I I a better look, the mama killer
whale stopped, got her head two meters out of the
water and shook her head "NO". Maybe it was mental
telepathy because she convinced me that if I was
threatening her baby, she could ram my boat and sink
it and swallow me whole.
My closest encounter was one meter from the fully
opened mouth of the killer whale Lolita while I was
employed by the Miami Seaquarium. All I remember is
row after row of bright eight-centimeter teeth, going all
the way back to a one meter gullet. I can't imagine
anything more frightening in the sea.
Another scary encounter was off Roatan, Honduras. I
spotted a killer whale two kilometers away, just going
crazy, leaping, t...n;;; .;-1i -; ?,in -r-7- tiv- vater
athigh speed, .. 'I. I ....... I .1 ..i and
turned in my direction, it scared me so badly, I cranked
the engine on and immediately full-powered away.
But most of my whale encounters have been pleasant:
pilot whales 30 centimeters from my hull lazily turning
on their side to make eye contact and give me a big
whale smile. Looking into the eyes of whales and dol
phins is not like looking into the eyes of other animals.
I have nothing but respect for whales and dol
phins, but in even the best groups there are always
one or two who want to make mischief, and whales
are no exception.
It was a mixed bag of sailing on a cruise from Roatan
around the eastern hoi I ... .... through the
formerly pirate-controll I -i. ...I. i i I the Mosquito
Indians and against a .. I ... I. .11 current south
to Panama. I made a mistake and left port based on a
second-hand weather report in order to have the secu
rity of sailing with three other boats. The weather
report called for an upper level low pressure system
with no convection and 15 knots of northeast wind,
and it was correct -15 hours later, when we actual
ly sailed into it. Meantime, it was a series of 50-knot
rainsqualls every 20 minutes and three-meter cross
seas from three directions. Washing machine weather
I call it.
Of the three boats with me, a 20-meter motorsailer
did the smart thing: drop sail I ... ,- i
13-meter race boat discover( i .1 i .1, ,
stainless steel when its 30-year-old spade rudder
snapped off at the hull. The third boat, a ten-year old
Panda 40, had no damage, but the 60-year-old captain
got tossed across the cockpit and broke some ribs.
Myself? In a 34-year-old Bristol 35, I gave up trying
to make way in such a chop, and hove to under a
reefed main, a tactic that has served me well over the
years. Don't press the boat, yourself, or your luck in
storm conditions. Avoid damage and fatigue.
I did get blown downwind and down-current 40
kilometers. It took 48 hours to go 220 kilometers to
our rendezvous point of the Vivarillos Cays,
Nicaragua. I was very glad to make a safe harbor at
Grand Vivarillo Cay.
The Panda 40, Oz, was there. I went over and we
exchanged storm stories. The captain of Oz couldn't
sail the boat and his lady crew couldn't manage alone
and so Oz sat there for two weeks waiting for perfect
weather and a full moon and for ribs to heal.
It was no burden. The island was lovely, the anchor
age peaceful and spearfishing excellent. December 1st
brought us the winter wind pattern of northeast ten to
15 knots, calm seas and a full moon: perfect conditions.
The captain of Oz still had broken ribs so he pru
dently put up a permanently reefed main and working
jib, since he wasn't fit enough to reef sails in a blow.
The reefed sails of Oz allowed my slower Bristol 35 to
sail alongside her, only 300 meters away, for two days
and one night. Both steered by Monitor windvanes,
never t';; -hi l1n. ; or engine, an .. I .1 1 i -
rience i i ..II ...II lear, calm sea- ... i, 11 i ..- if
Sixty kilometers north of Providencia, a big east
swell and low black clouds announced the arrival of a
late season low pressure system. I was careless from
lack of sleep and put a one-meter tear in my 15-year
old mainsail while reefing.
With bad weather approaching, 36 hours of no sleep
and a torn mainsail, I opted to anchor 14 kilometers
north of Providencia in a good reef-protected anchor
age, while Oz bravely sailed on, into ominous skies
and rising winds. I spent a peaceful night while 20 to
30-knot rainsqualls lashed my boat and big seas
thundered against the reef.
The next day was more of the same, so I took the
mainsail into the cabin to repair and thanked God I
wasn't offshore in such weather. I could listen in to
Oz's sailing reports on SSB but couldn't talk to him.
Basically he sailed another 100 kilometers south of me
then he had to heave-to for about 36 hours due to
So for once I made a correct move and anchored in
a safe harbor. The day after the storm was a joy to
behold, clear dry skies, northeast wind 15 knots, gen
tle swells. All storms and breakdown forgotten, I joy
fully sailed out in perfect conditions.
I laid a course southwest of the rhumb line in order to
avoid the low pressure dome off Cartagena, one of the
most persistent and nastiest pieces of water in the
Caribbean. It was perfect sailing past San Andres,
clearing some offshore reefs by sunset. Uneventful sail
ing in gentle winds and seas, just watching the sea
miles roll by memories I will keep until my dying day.
Two hundred kilometers east of Bocas del Toro,
Panama, I picked up a fair one to two knot current.
I turned on some 1970's disco music and celebrated
by disco dancing Travolta-style with many Saturday
Night Fever dance moves.
Thats when the pranksters showed up, troublemak
ers to destroy my good mood.
I was down below disco dancing to loud music when
I started hearing clicks and whistles over the music. I
went on deck to find a pod of 20 or so pilot whales.
Brown-skinned, five to eight metre moms and dads,
and three-meter babies, patiently waiting their turn to
come one by one a mere 12 centimeters from my hull,
right up next to the speakers of my stereo.
I expected them to break into disco moves any sec
ond! I was flattered they enjoyed my music so much,
so I cranked it up full blast and showed them my disco
moves and Travolta point. We had a whale of a time.
I put my hand in the water and they would come
close, turn on their side and look me soulfully in the
eye. They had me fascinated for hours. But of course
single-handers are always lacking sleep, so after two
hours of flat-out fun, I went below to rest.
.. 1.... 1..1.i I guess this seemed unfriendly or dis
: 1I I them. They didn't want the party to
stop. A few minutes after I went below to rest, the
Monitor windvane went crazy and the boat went off
course. I popped my head out of the hatch, didn't see
anything wrong and went below when the boat went
back on course.
A few minutes later the boat went wildly off course
with the sails luffing. I went into the cockpit to reset my
course and windvane, didn't see anything wrong and
went below. Moments later, the boat was off course
again, sails flogging. What the hell's going on here?
I leaned over the transom to see the windvane and
saw .. I'. ... i. i i-whales steering myboatby
nosii, I . I I II If the windvane gently from
side to side.
I fell into the cockpit laughing because of the look
the whale had on his face -so proud, cocky and
amused with himself. And the rest of the pod of
whales all seemed to have big smirks on their faces.
When I recovered from laughing I carefully watched
the whale applying nothing but gentle pressure to the
water paddle on my windvane, an incredible feat con
sidering the boats rolling, pitching and riding up and
down on a two-meter swell. Any clever whale, watch
ing the water paddle of the windvane move, could
quickly figure out how to make mischief and get a rise
out of a human.
Although he never did anything to damage the wind
vane, I had to keep readjusting my rudder to get back
on course. I yelled at him to stop but he was having
too much fun to listen.
I got out my four-meter boat hook and gently poked
his head away from the paddle. That's when I cracked
up laughing -i;; T-cause of the wounded and inno
cent look on I.- I "What are you poking me for? I
ain't doing :. .
"Get out ( I I. I said. "I'm tired of adjusting my
course." He took a short pause and put his nose to
the paddle again. After three go-rounds like this I
gave him a good hard poke with the rubber tip of the
'1. .i i".. .11 ..i. ., He moved off two meters with
a ,,I. i I ,, ,.- face. He watched me shyly for
a few minutes and gently inched his way closer. I
splashed the boathook on the surface of the sea, and
he moved off two meters again and watched me to see
if I'd go below. Minutes later he's inching closer again.
All I had to do was wave the boathook in the air to get
the message to him.
I realized I couldn't stand an anti-whale watch for
ever, so I turned off the music to encourage them to
leave. "Party's over, folks. Time to go!" Ten minutes
later their clicks and whistles faded into all the other
sea sounds as they swam off, no doubt looking for
After they departed I felt sad, cruel and unfriendly.
Maybe I wasn't playful enough for them. I don't feel
like I represented my species very well.
Thirty-six hours of .1 i .,i,.. I brought me to the
beautiful Kuna India.- i l. Blas Islands of
Panama, my most fascinating landfall to date, and
only 12 hours behind Oz.
Whenever I think of this whale encounter I think of
the character Radar O'Reilly on the American TV
series MASH. He played the part of a naive farm boy.
His best line was: "Animals are people too, you know."
he beginning of summer brings blessed rainfall
to the Caribbean, a welcome gift to the abun-
dant flowers, but it can bring annoyances, as
well, such as Aedes aegypti. Sound like an alien
descending upon earth? Maybe not quite, but close. It
is a mosquito, the most common species that invades
our tranquillity, and it transmits the dengue virus.
Aedes aegypti is a daytime biter li--in- -1-2 to island
towns. So you can be bitten by ... ...i I mosquito
while hiking to the farmers market or during a leisure
ly morning walk. You may never even see or feel the
bite. Such was the case when both our young children
fell ill in peaceful Bequia.
We had just dropped the hook in soft sand, in the
late afternoon, when our sons, Adam and Warren,
needed to stretch their legs after having been on pas
sage for most of the day. To starboard lay the perfect
setting for two rambunctious boys: a long ribbon of
white sand fringed in mango trees, near a creek-bed.
We set off immediately in the dinghy, and soon they
were absorbed in their normal Huckleberry Finn style
of play -exploring the tropical bush to create mock
battles, imaginary hunts, or light sport. This day, their
activity was to see who could land the most mangos
for m- =i;;. pebbles collected from the nearby creek
to i ...I from the treetops. Little did I know how
ti. i,. I.,.. would turn our lives upside
o I, II, ", ",
Bright sunlight burst through the hatch the follow
ing morning to announce the arrival of dawn, surprise
ing me awake. Odd -usually my husband Peter and
I are awake early. This morning .- .i- i1. differ
ent. Bothboys were limp in bed,11. I... ii Since
they had been fully immunized against tropical dis
eases like hepatitis A and B, typhoid, yellow fever and
the tetanus-diphtheria/measles booster, we weren't
too worried. We assumed, wrongly, that they had the
flu. Frequently, we've contracted viruses and bacterial
illnesses frcm rri--in' t- ri -t who swoop down for
some good i i -1. .. ... i -r 1 ii, -*. f their own.
Soon our sons' fevers were I II I by severe
headaches and joint pain. Neither would eat. A rash
appeared on their torsos with deep red splotches that
I thought was prickly h( ., 1, i 1.. 1 1....... 1 1.,
But when there was no :.. ... .. i 1.. I' .
I became alarmed, considering for the first time that
we were dealing with something far more serious.
We made abee-line ,ii ..... .. room, and the
boys were diagnosed i. I ..... i I knew north
ing about it! A simple blood test can tell you -request
it. It was a month before our sons' health returned and
they resumed their normal activity level.
Don't let my tale bring you despair. We all want to
..... ......... 11 ese island jewels of the Caribbean
,1i, 1 1 ...... i Here's what you need to know to
arm yourself with accurate knowledge, and take prop
What is Dengue Fever?
It is a viral disease transmitted by the infected
Aedes aegypti mosquito. It has bitten an infected per
son, then you. It is usually a daytime biter, but can
hide in clothes, behind curtains, or inside cupboards
onboard your boat, coming out at night for a good
feed. Symptoms include:
a sudden onset of high fever, headache, joint and
muscle pains (hence its old name, "breakbone fever")
nausea or vomiting
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a rash of small red spots which appears three to
four days after the onset of fever.
A simple blood test can confirm an accurate diag
nosis, but there is no specific treatment for dengue,
except to replace lost fluids and treat possible vein
collapse from the more serious form of dengue hem
orrhagic fever. (More on that later.) Recovery, char
acterized by fatigue, can take up to a month. To
recover, take your boat to a secluded anchorage with
a stiff breeze, and rest. Forget those boat projects.
Give your busy social life a short break. And stay
away from towns.
The virus-carrying Aedes aegypti mosquito has
distinctive stripes on its legs
What is DHF?
Dengue is actually four viruses, not one, and once
you've recovered from one type, you are immune from
that particular serotype only. Your resistance to the
other serotypes is partial and transient.
Once you've come down with dengue the first time,
you are more susceptible to contracting DHF, dengue
b-.rr. r'-b f----r .;-1 tf- -1~~-ir. -an be greater
: i ... .. i .. ... i i .11 i II your im m une
system is suppressed. It can be potentially fatal, so
drink, drink, drink, and get to a doctor quickly for a
blood test. If fluid loss is not replaced, you can die
from circulatory failure because of the collapse of
How do you know if you have DHF? Symptoms are:
bleeding from the mouth, nose, or gums, which
can be a sign of internal bleeding from the blood ves
bruising, intense abdominal pain, and vomiting
can occur, too.
Without prompt treatment, you can go into dengue
shock syndrome (DSS) or circulatory failure.
If you suspect you have any form of dengue fever, do
not take aspirin. It can impair blood clotting. Take
The good news is: dengue fever and DHF are easi
ly treated in early stages by a doctor. Fluids are
administered to replace lost fluids; transfusions to
Our sons slowly recovered from dengue fever, but
Warren, our youngest, later came down with the more
serious stage, the horrifying DHF. In the intervening
time, he'd grown from a young boy living on our boat
Full Service Station:
-Fuel/Diesel/Gas Laundry Call Station
-Grocery Ice Cigarettes Cold Drinks
Breakfast (Coffee, Croissants) Fishing Items
Conveniently located at
Carenantilles Dockyard LE MARIN
Tel +596 74 70 94 Fax +596 7478 08
Mobile +696 29 28 12
Open 7am to 7pm Sundays: 7am to 1pm
in the Caribbean, to studying and working in the
Last week, his e-mail informing us of his serious
bout with DHF sent my husband and me to our knees.
At the time, we were on passage in Scud, our 44-foot
catamaran, and were unable to help him. Did he know
the possible dangers of DHF, I wondered. I hadn't
informed him. My calm reserve turned to pure jelly. I
grew frantic, knowing that ten percent of the cases of
DHF are fatal.
Fortunately, Warren wasn't alone. His traveling
companions, familiar with dengue in the area, rushed
him to the local clinic. Alert medical staff diagnosed
him with DHF, with previous signs of dengue. He was
well in no time, with time to spare to recover from
How Can You Protect Yourself?
There is no vaccine at present to prevent dengue, so
you must take precautions. Aedes aegypti is smaller
than most other mosquitoes, is black in color and can
be distinguished by the white spots on its body and
white rings on its legs.
Cruisers may not be aware of a dengue outbreak,
since we are ot-n T-ini .i; to make our way south for
the hurricane .- I- not all Caribbean nations
report outbreaks, or they may be delayed in reporting.
When going ashore, wear light-colored clothing
with full-length pant legs and sleeves. Mosquitoes are
attracted to dark clothing and it makes mosquitoes
Also when going ashore, use insect repellent with
DEET on exposed skin. For children, don't apply it to
cuts or small wounds, and wash off the DEET when
-tm-ing;;; t- .---r --.t r-r adults, use 35 percent
I I ... I I I. 1. .. ..- -. to ten percent. You can
buy it in island hardware stores or well-stocked large
fr- r"- stores.
[I' i note: Mary Beth Ellison, MD, wrote in the
June 2005 issue of Compass: "No definitive studies
have been done regarding safety in children with DEET,
so exercise caution when using this on them. DEET is
toxic when ingested, can cause blistering in high con
centrations, and should never be used on open or
abraded skin. Application to a child should be done by
the parent, being careful to avoid the face, eyes, and
mouth; it should never be used on infants. All users
should wash their hands well following application,
and avoid inhaling any preparations with DEET.
"[In] 2005 the CDC announced the licensing in the US
of two "new" chemoprophylactics. One is Oil of
Euraluptus.... It has not been approved for children
. I . .., fage, and its duration ofefficacy is
notably shorter than standard products. The other
product is Picaridin, also known as KBR3023. This
chemical has been used in Europe and Latin America
for years, and has an efficacy similar to DEET. The new
product marketed by Cutter is called Advance; the one
used in Europe is known as Autan."]
Stay anchored in breezy locations in harbors.
Especially, avoid anchoring in front of towns, where
forgotten old tires, bottles, or containers of water are
virtual party pools for breeding mozzies.
Sift through belongings onboard to shake out lin
gering mozzies that might have sneaked aboard. (I've
discovered them many times, often never first hearing
their ubiquitous whine.)
Screen your boat hatches, portholes and company
ionway. You can buy one of those cool-looking mozzie
nets for your berth that drapes like a tent across the
mattress. They're easy to install overhead. Better yet,
don't wait; throw one together yourself. Mozzie screen
is sold by the meter in hardware stores. I hand-sewed
mine, with bits of fabric lying around the boat and
some Velcro, in a couple days. Some boutiques sell the
1.. 1.li mozzie nets for your berth.
.re chartering and only in the Caribbean for
a brief time, report your recent return from the West
Indies to your doctor, if you happen to fall ill back
home. Medical staff can act quickly to avoid time-con
suming exams, and thus prevent possible advanced
:-.t -. -f 1-- e fever or DHF.
....I- the Caribbean for 20 years with rarely
any illness. Armed with information about dengue
fever and DHF, I can continue exploring these gems
for many years to come with pleasure, and most
A&C YACHT BROKERS
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Y ARIES (21 Mar 20 Apr)
S -11, .- .-" P..-1-. i:- A -urself
.. 1 11 23rd.
STAURUS (21 Apr 21 May)
This month will be a good one for working on any boat
related projects you've been considering. Business may hit
rough seas on the 25th.
I GEMINI (22 May 21 Jun)
Your f l;....- 11 1. 1 11 -;, 1 the
10th. 1I. '1 ..... i i i an
upsurge of energy by planning some new onboard projects.
0 CANCER (22 Jun 23 Jul)
Any creative ventur,- -; 1-;;; 1 this month will meet
with communication 41 ,** ill get a break from
this bad weather in the last week.
Q LEO (24 Jul 23 Aug)
Your business may suffer a few more days of rain due to
female crew or cruising companions, but you will see clear
skies after the 15th.
H VIRGO (24 Aug 23 Sep)
This month will be a good time to work on those repairs
on board that you've been letting slide.
LIBRA (24 Sep 23 Oct)
There may be clouds overhead affecting your ability to
communicate your creative ideas to crew or workers. The
sun should shine through after the 15th.
TL SCORPIO (24 Oct 22 Nov)
Si ... i launch now will be a
so .. I i... 1 .. .. ..i. I on relationships on
board and on clearing up any misunderstandings with
mate or crew.
SAGITTARIUS (23 Nov 21 Dec)
Youll find ci ,i.. this month. Take a few friends
on a day sail ... 1. 10th. And just relax and have a
SCAPRICORN (22 Dec 20 Jan)
You will have many challenges on board and will find it
rough going getting your ideas across to mate or crew.
This aspect will last until the 5th. So maintain an even
keel while this aspect is in effect, lest you say things you
^ AQUARIUS (21 Jan 19 Feb)
It will be slow sailing as far as work is concerned and
';; ; ; ;; cause fo. .- T;;-t 1- i ay on
i i i 1,' hi leeward. .I,, 1 next
PISCES (20 Feb 20 Mar)
ACROSS 25) TOR 14) TOGGLE
1) TRAWL 26) TONNAGE 15) TORNADO
5) TORRENT 27) TEAR 16) TO
7) TIRED 17) TENOR
8) TORE DOWN 18) TINGLES
9) TOPSAIL 1) TRANSIT 19) TON
10) TODDY 2) TOE 20) TINKER
12) TRAVADO 3) TEMP 21) TURNS
13) TRAMMEL 4) TRANSFER 23) TONE
15) TREASURE 5) TROD 24) TAR
16) TOP 6) TRAVERSE
20) TRAVELING 7) TOLL
21) TRANSOM 8) TOO
22) TUT 10) TRANSPORT
23) TONGUE 11) TOGS
The Colors 0of Bliss
New England summers were too short for me
By the time summer arrives there's much to do
Getting the boat into the water after the cold white winter
Then it's sailing out past the jetties
Blue skies and great, fluffy white clouds
Waters a dark greenish-brown
Pallid bodies are turned tan under wind-filled sails
Feeling the sought-after freedom of the sea
Summer breezes can turn quickly to white-out squalls
And pewter fog can hide your hands before your face -
A passing vessel is only a green dot on a radar screen
Or a horn marks its passage
I thought that was bliss
But southerly climes whispered, warm tradewinds called
A place where seasons changed but you couldn't tell without a calendar
Where waters turned from d&l 1 1li -1 to swimming-pool blue
The colors of my world were I. .... I .
Yellow-green palm trees swaying on pinkish-hued beaches
Aquamarine blues were common
Paint-box colors come to life
From pale to vivid as the sea deepened
Caribbean shades no crayon comes close to imitating
Dawns of mauves and pinks streak across the southern skies
Grey gulls, brown boobies, snow-white tropic birds with their long, flowing tails
Jet black frigate birds and brown pelicans soaring and diving
Bliss is now coursing through my veins
Still closer to the equator, all tones of turquoise and teal
Darkening to midnight blue out of sight of any land
Bring forth the grayish-blue porpc. .... I .I1 I ,,,. fish
Leaping and frolicking above and .... I
Then at day's end the horizon beckons
And the sun sinks low in response
il- r-s and burgundy shades spread across the western vista
"1 clear, not a cloud to block its descent
That great, warm ball retreat "1--in- behind
A quick kiss, the infamous g. 11 I.'
Quickly the heavens turn a velvety black
The twinkling diamonds of the tropical night sky
Are companions to the moon's silvery orb
In time to color my blissful dreams
4 CARE FOR THE SEA
We need to care for the sea
Help keep the sea litter free
S Don't throw plastics in the sea
Because it will affect all creatures from A to Z!
When we destroy the marine life
What will our people enjoy?
The sea has so many purposes
Swimming, sporting activities and it also supports us.
Many use the sea to earn a living
So stop all the littering
When we litter, marine life we killing
With the marine life gone, where's the income for living?
Let us work together to care for the sea
Help me as I pledge to keep the sea litter free
Topic: FISH FARM
The Nautical Alphabet:
'4 O'Clock T'
1) Iron head of a drag net
5) Heavy flood
8) Past tense of 27 Across
9) Second sail above deck
10) Palm juice or hot rum drink
12) Black squall in a clear sky
13) Cod net
15) Pirate's booty
16) '__ o' the morning!'
20) Type of movable backstays
21) Planks forming stern of ship
22) Boy pharaoh; also a ship's name
23) Long, tapered piece of timber made to fit into the
scarphed end of another
14 26) Cargo ships carrying capacity
1) Passage of a celestial body across the meridian
2) the line'
3) Short for impermanent
4)1 .. f ownership
6) ___ sailing; tacking to windward, for example
11) Clothes (slang)
14) Wooden pin or button
16) and fro
17) Irish sailor's vocal range?
19) A short one is 2,000 pounds
20) Class of sailing dinghy
21) Changes course
23) Quality of sound
24) Pine sap residue used to paint standing rigging
-Solution on page 36
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4I, O"DS, 4CVui g C __o\ssuCord
ICRUIS~ING KIDS' CORNER
You would think that everyone in Trinidad would
want to live on the breezy hillside of i ,, 11 1... 1
above Port of Spain, but not a bit of it. I.. ... -1 1 I
up there have simple cottages built along narrow
roads. Laventille is also the home of the steel band and
it's where Mistress Antigone and her three pretty
daughters, Sue, Lue and Prue, lived. Now, Mistress
Antigone was a Diablesse and so were h 1 ...1..
and so were all the women of that family, I .
erations, so none of them appreciated the sweet notes
of the steel band that carried on the wind up the hill.
In fact, Diablesses actually hate all music and dancing
because they have a cloven fc I 11. i ,- ..1 .11hough
you may never see it, one of I. .. I i- . 11 cow's
foot and how can you dance with that? But then the
job of La Diablesse is to entice young men to cliff edges
and push them off. But not Prue. Prue hated it. And
what was worse, cliff edges fi, 1.. 1 her half to
death. Yes, Prue was a sorry ...... i a Diablesse.
One day Mistress Antigone gave Prue this warning:
"Look here my girl, you'd better shape up. I've brought
you up in the traditions of our family whose women
have always been successful Diablesses. This is your
last chance, girl."
Prue hung her head but her mother continued, "A
handsome young man has moved into the house next
door and I want you to weave the spell I've taught you
and take him to the very top of the village. You know
the place I mean, where the road ends in a steep,
rocky cliff? Well, while he is still entranced I want you
to push him off"
"But Ma, I'm frightened of going up there! I'm scared
of falling over the edge. Send Sue or Lue."
Mistress Antigone pulled her face into a nasty scowl,
"Go!" She shouted and pointed to the door.
Prue walked slowly to the house next door where the
new family had moved in. She stood leaning against
the old wooden fence and concentrated hard on the
young man inside and it wasn't long before he
appeared at the door. He walked down the path and
across to the fence, then putting his arms on the top
of the palings he looked into Prue's pretty face. She
smiled at him and her cheeks dimpled in the most
"Hello," he said, "my name's Carlo. How about tak
ing a walk up the hill with me?"
Carlo was definitely under Prue's spell because ordi
narily he would never have dreamt of being so forward.
"Yes," was all that Prue said but Carlo read a whole
book of invitations into that one word. His feet hardly
touched the ground in his haste to get around the
fence. Prue took his hand and they walked all the way
to the top of the village. But here, Prue could go no far
their. She wouldn't go anywhere near that awful drop
off. Instead she sat down on a low rock and looked out
across the blue waters of the Gulf between Trinidad
and Venezuela. Carlo sat beside her and smiled.
"For a beautiful girl you don't look at all happy.
What's the trouble?"
Prue couldn't resist confiding in such a handsome
S*I. Carlo," she answered tearfully, "I can't dance
and I want to have fun like everyone else."
Carlo laughed. He i 11 . i .... ,
in the world to fix. II .. .. -I i i ... .. i
now because I'll teach you to dance in no time. Here,
let me show you."
Carlo sprang up and humming the latest calypso he
moved his body rhythmically to the beat. He spun
around, twirled, swayed his hips, shuffled his feet,
and did all sorts of clever steps that left Prue gasping
"There! Now, stand up and follow me." He took
Prue's hand and then encircled her waist with his
arm. "First, you must learn the basic steps and the
rest comes easy."
That afternoon Carlo taught Prue the waltz. But it
wasn't easy. Prue had stumbled about until she
wailed, "I can't dance! I really can't! I have something
wrong with my left foot and it's too heavy."
So Carlo helped her to compensate for the heavy foot
by lifting it higher than the other and to keep it out of
the way. At last, Prue could dance but just as the sun
was sinking in a red ball down into the sea, Prue
pulled herself away from Carlo and cried,
"Oh, how late it is, I've got to get home NOW!" And
she ran off down the road with Carlo panting
behind her. As they reached his gate he called out,
"See you tomorrow!"
As soon as Prue walked into the house, Mistress
.... .. -i i "W ell?"
i .. y spell as you told me to but I want to
play with him for a little while," Prue answered.
Mistress Antigone smiled. "Very good, my girl T'll
you a week and then you must push him off I. 11
The next afternoon Prue and Carlo returned to the
end of the road and Carlo taught Prue all the dances
he knew. He also told her that he was entering the big
dance competition that very weekend. Prue lay in bed
that night worrying about the fate of poor Carlo and
then she had this brilliant idea and she would put it
into Carlo's head the next afternoon. It surprised even
him when he suddenly announced, "Prue, I want you
to be my dancing partner in Saturday's contest!"
Prue smiled a sly smile.
"We're sure to win, Prue, and we'll be stars!"
"Yes," Prue agreed and she knew that if she had a
chance of n--in '0.rlo from the cliff edge, this was it.
Saturday 1 .11 .. .. came around and Prue met
Carlo. She wa ----;r;n the folk dress that Mistress
Antigone had :.- I i 1, school concert. It was the
traditional costume that the Creoles had worn for gen
rations: a long white petticoat with lace frills at the
hem, an overskirt of rosy fabric, a white blouse with
frills and ribbons and a silk scarf over her shoulders.
On her plaited hair she wore a matching fabric scarf
cleverly tied into a little hat with peaks. Prue looked
the prettiest young girl in all of Trinidad and Carlo was
head over heels in love with her.
The dance hall was packed and when Carlo danced his
solo the audience cheered and clapped as never before
because Carlo danced as if he had wings on his feet.
Next came the couples. Prue concentrated all her
magical powers into a tight little knot in the centre of
her heart. "Please, all Diablesses whc 1 1-f-
me, I beg this one request of you. I II .1
I love him truly and he has 1 ... 1. me, a Diablesse
with a heavy cloven hoof, to -
Well, it was an afternoon that was never to be for
gotten in the dance history of Trinidad. And what's
more, Mistress Antigone and Sue and Lue all begged
Prue to teach THEM to dance like the stars.
"I can't teach you," r.. 1 .,,.1, 1 "but CARLO CAN!"
And that was the ......"". i arlo's career as the
greatest dance teacher that ever lived and breathed in
Trinidad. And as for Prue, it was 1h- 1--7i; -f
new life that t--r;n the night she .....
Carlo from i. i.1 edge and a very sticky end!
hurt themselves against the cage wire. Parasites called sea lice are very common. These
eat away at the flesh of the fish -ale loss and sores. Disease and infections
I Vd b- ( % which can be passed on from fisl i i -1. I ... their small enclosures are also problems.
Many farmed fish are carnivorous and are fed with meal made from small
I \ fish that humans don't eat. The meal may contain chemicals and antibiotics to
keep the fish healthy. There's a lot of disagreement over how much wild fish is
Needed to feed the farmed fish but it's obvious that the oceans cannot sustain a
System where you have to take more from the sea than you produce in a farm.
Taking these small fish also disrupts the marine food chain.
The pollution from the wastes of the caged fish -such as body excrement
and uneaten food -has the potential to damage the environment so must be
T OD,, ,^ D E E P E S water i T T Tclosely monitored. Water quality must also be monitored to make sure that the
water is clean and well-oxygenated.
O LLY S Fish are not the only marine creatures that are farmed. Many different kinds
by Eltaine Oivierre of shellfish such as oysters and mussels, for example, as well as shrimps are also
produced. The farms are close to shore so there is a problem if natural vegetation
Some scientists predict that the global fishing industry will collapse by the like mangrove has been cut down for space. Mangroves are a natural protection
year 2048. Of course, we don't want this to happen! So we will have to manage against storms and sea action so their removal may cause trouble in the future.
and sustain the fish stocks that we already ... I ... I ... ...... their Despite all the difficulties though, well-managed aquaculture may be one
numbers. One such way already being triec .- aquaculture 1. -1 ......... way to help conserve wild stocks in the world's oceans.
Aquaculture was used in China a few thousand years ago so it really is an
ancient method of fish production. In time, the practice spread to Europe and sev WORD PUZZLE
eral different types of fish were raised in ponds and tanks. At first, only freshwater Unscramble these words from the passage. The first letters of the words will
fish such as carp and tilapia were used and the traditional methods were usually spell out this month's topic.
environmentally friendly. The fish raised were not carnivorous so there was no prob
lem finding suitable plant food for them and their wastes could be used as fertilizer. 1) FRIZILTREE
Raising seawater fish in farms (mariculture) is much more difficult but the 2) TONIFINCE
I public demand for seafood has led to a boom in fish farming. Baby fish are born in 3) AFODOSE
specially built hatcheries and, as they grow, they are moved to larger pens, usually 4) THEYLAH
made of wire and moored off shore. When grown, the fish can be harvested and sold. 5) DRILFYEN
A large percentage of the seafood eaten every year (over 25 percent) comes 6) TIBICATION
from commercial aquaculture. However, there are many problems faced by fish 7) INGASIR
farmers which cause concern. 8) VOGRAMEN
Marine fish in the wild travel great distances through the oceans. When they are
confined in cages, they do not have so much room to move so they often scratch and Answers on page 36
o. .m m. m.m.m.m.m.m.m.m.m.___.
Constantine Goes to School, by Nancy Rogers
Yaeger with illustrations by Bill Grace, 2006.
Published by Macmillan Caribbean. Hardback, 64
pages, color illustrations throughout. ISBN 1-4050
Any young child who has tried to puzzle out life in
suddenly strange surroundings will identify with
Constantine, a toucan who flies ashore in Barbados
from a ship. The bird is looking for green trees and
- ;-ore natural to him than shipboard life, but
i1 i.- himself not in the jungle but in a very
Trying to find his way in these new circumstances,
he gets into some trouble -and so do his new human
friends, the schoolboys Neville and Tom. What to do?
How the children and their teachers, friends and fam-
ily all learn to cope with this unusual stranger who
suddenly lives in their midst is a pleasing parable of
inclusiveness. The ending, in which the personable
bird becomes a school mascot, is a variation of the
classic children's line, "He followed me home -can I
The cheery illustrations, by a Barbadian artist, are
as colorful as a toucan's beak.
Mauby and the Hurricane, by Peter Laurie with
illustrations by H. Ann Dodson, 2007. Published by
Macmillan Caribbean. Hardback, 56 pages, color illus
trations throughout. ISBN 978-1 4050-7718-7. 8.25.
Another tale with an animal hero, this third in a series
of books about the adventures of a Caribbean cat is writ
ten for slightly older children. Mauby, a Caribbean farm
cat, I.... I .1 and lazy. But when a hurricane threat
ens 1. I ..... i ile the humans are away, its up to her
to use all her feline wits to save the other animals. Once
more, she has to draw on her survival instincts. With a
little help from Bongo the dog and her wild friends like
the mongoose, the monkeys, the crab and the tortoise,
Mauby effect ... ... i.... rescues and eventually
saves all the : *..... ...... i ... the violence of the storm
-and from the icky bats and dung beetles, too.
Miri and the Magic Door, by Juliet Barclay with
illustrations by Xiomara Sera, 2007. Published by
Macmillan Caribbean. Hardback, 56 pages, color illus
trations throughout. ISBN 978-1 4050-6891 8. 8.25.
i.-i ..i i I ... i i though a magic door one
..1. , i i d right into the era of pirates.
The story line is imaginative and engaging, and the
rhymed writing is fun:
And there in a wall is an ancient door
in a place Miri knows there was no door before.
Its hinges are rusty, it's painted pale blue.
It slowly groans open and Miri steps through....
Gentlemen's noses in white tuberoses.
Water in pails.
Rigging and sails.
Clanging of bells.
Very strong smells.
This would be a wonderful book to read aloud.
The author, a writer, photographer and graphic
design manager, lives in Havana with her 1 ... 1. .
and has worked on both sides of the Atlanti i I1.
Office of the City Historian of Havana.
The technically accomplished artwork might be
somewhat dark for many children's tastes, but is sure
to be admired by adults.
All of these books are available at bookstores or from
Lag Joon T:iai'i S Vincenc t.
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A Al 0
Tobago, The Capital of Paradise Clean, Green
and Serene, edited by HanifAli. Published by Hansib
Publications Ltd. 2005. Hardback, 168 pages, color
photographs throughout. ISBN 1 870518-97-7.
This is one of the
Caribbean-related titles from
a publishing house that is
acknowledged as having
established visible minority
publishing in the United
Publications was founded in
1970 by Arif Ali. The following
year, the company launched
the monthly magazine West
Indian Digest and throughout
the 1970s was involved in
magazine and newspaper
publishing for Britain's grow
ing West Indian community.
Since the beginning of the
1980s, the company has pub
lished approximately one
hundred books. The Hansib
catalogue presents original
books about many countries
and peoples around the
world, their history, develop
ment and prospects, and the
experience of ethnic minority
people in Britain.
Hansib Publications' list of
photo-rich "coffee table
books" about the Caribbean
includes Anguilla, Trnquillity
Wrapped in Blue; Antigua &
Barbuda, A Little Bit of
Paradise; Barbados; Just
Beyond Your Imagination;
Dominica, Nature Island of the
Carriacou, Petite Martinique,
Spice Island of the Caribbean;
Guyana; St. Lucia, Simply
Beautiful; and Trinidad &
Tobago, Terrific and Tranquil
As might be surmised from
the titles, which reflect the
tourism-promotion mottoes of
the various nations, many of
these books have been com-
missioned by official tourism
agencies. A number have had
Following the publication, in 2000, of Trnidad &
Tobago, Terrific and Tranquil, it was felt that a sepa
rate publication for Tobago was required. The result
ant collaboration between the Tourism Department of
the Tobago House of Assembly and Hansib
Publications offers some basic facts, useful informa
tion and a brief history. The editorial material was
commissioned locally, a good idea. But mainly -as
-1 -ff-- t.1-1- book should -Tobago, The
i i Clean, Green and Serene lets its
plethora of pictures (over 250) speak for themselves.
The work of many photographers is represented. The
photos are well selected, widely various and nicely
presented. The color reproduction is good.
The book is divided into sections devoted to
Business, Tourism, The Natural World, History and
Culture. As befits Tobago's "clean, green and
serene" image, the Tourism section highlights scuba
diving and sea turtle nesting observation, and The
Natural World section showcases Tobago's world
class birdwatching -over 220 species have been
recorded -and rightfully boasts of the first legally
protected rainforest in the western hemisphere: the
14,000-acre Central Forest reserve, which was
established in 1776.
Synopses are included in French, German, Italian
and Spanish. A tourism directory rounds out the con
tent, giving contact information to prospective visitors
whose interest has been piqued.
This book provides a quality memento for any past
visitor, and an abundant enticement for those who
have not yet had the pleasure.
Available at book and gift shops in Tobago or from
JYA at SIM Boatyard. Prickly Bay. Grenada
. T.- 1 .,n..-- a- .A .AI l .ac nTMArI G EMErIT
. II j- LE A Ib', tEfAnlnr l AlI['A C', ,:,LU iT ,':,A C' EljGCilE '
METAL FA6bnr:A Tin.jI & V*ELCLIlG
* ( jya(qcarlnsun coril STAINLESS STEEL & ALUMINIUM
Manager Jean-Yves Rousere BOAT ENGINEERING, HYDRAULICS AND PLUMBING
Blue Lagoon, St. Vincent & the Grenadines
St. Vincent's Best Full Service
Facility for Visiting Yachtsmen
PADI Dive Shop
Restaurant, Bar, dinghy dock
* Surfshop Watersports Centre Boutique
* Internet Cafe Fax and weather service
Spare parts ordering Apartment
Doyle Barefoot the only sail repair loft in
St. Vincent professional sail, bimini
& dodger repairs at great prices
Bareboat & Crewed Charters
ASA Sailing School
BOOK REVIEW BY BOB BERLINGHOF
Chutney Power and Other Stories, by Willi Chen, Macmillan Caribbean, 2006,
ISBN 13: 978-1 40502973-5, 162 pages, with six page glossary.
Willi Chen's stories of Trinidad's rural East Indian culture are disarmingly short
and sweet, whether he is writing about thieves, good neighbors, murderers or run
away pigs. There is pathos, humour, violence, sex and death, all the makings for a
potpourri of "curry mouth" Trini reality. Mr. Chen himself is a modern Renaissance
man -a painter, sculptor, set and building designer, playwright and poet, and he
knows his characters intimately. There are nearly equal parts of charm and brutal
ity, generosity and greed, to make the reader feel right at home in the strange and
moving lives of his -r-t-.-it-
The opening st i. is
S^ More than a Creole Thing", is one
of adversity and triumph as
Bhim, a wiry cane-cutter, strives
to become a King of the Band
9k during Carnival. He is universal
ly rejected because of his back
Br-s-I ijtil he comes to Monty,
II I in need of the six
thousand dollars Bhim produces
From a grimy pocket as a 50 per
cent deposit to purchase the
towering costume. Bhim argues
persuasively, "Boss, Chutney is
the thing now, so leh me give it a
the try. Mas is more than a creole
thing now, ,,,, i, .... Chutney
' have power.
r. I Monty checked the bills in his
hand then stared at Bhim's face.
He was overwhelmed by the inter
Sest, by the enthusiasm of this boy
from Bustahall. He pushed Bhim
under the light and examined his
: lean, willowy frame and powerful
neck, which had escaped his first
glance. When he shook Bhim's
g hands, Monty felt the rough touch
Se f a of the labourer. He took the youth
South of the compound into the back
room, where the imposing costume
stood mounted on a stand, daz
zling and magnificent. Bhim's eyes
brightened, and a great feeling of
power and hope coursed through his body. Monty looked on in silent relish.
Monty's friend Alexander advises him to let Bhim play mas, but not be King, as
the notion of an East Indian as King of the Band offends him. Alexander is also
Sh ,.t di .1m i h, many of his Indian school mates have climbed the economy
SI .i I i i ad. and he is irked by the amount of cash Bhim so easily part
ed with. Monty answers, "Anybody could play King, Alex... Remember, Carnival is
bacchanal and it past creole t'ing now. Don' think about slavery and white masters.
Them times gone... now is steelband, iron, and tassa. Let the world see and hear us.
This is a national festival."
Monty's faith in Bhim is rewarded as Bhim's performance under the heavy cos
tume is worthy of Carnival King.
In "The Bottle Washer who Nearly Danced", Prakash Roopchand has saved and
borrowed enough money to take provocative Beulah Payne to a local dance. But for
all his preparations, including borrowing two toned shoes that don't fit, Beulah only
has eyes for a rich boy, Andy Coleman. After a long and arduous walk to the com-
munity centre, she spies Andy and ditches Prakash before they even get to dance.
Prakash could not think, he could not see and he had a numb feeling. Hefelt ostra
cized and foolish. This dougla behaving real bad, he thought. But in his mind he was
counting unwashed bottles... He walked under heavy branches, into darkness,
amidst the symphony of croaking crmpauds, back to Caratal. Back to the bottle wash
ing that he could do so well.
In "Chanka's Backpay", the hero, a cane cutter of r--li.i- v. =t.ii : i= i?---n th-
princely sum of $3,800 as back pay, and his two be I I I, .. I .
monumentally drunk together at Ah Ping's rumshop, their usual haunt. Chanka's
daughter comes to remind him, "Ma say to come home. It have plenty to buy. Come
now, the man bring the furniture and he want pay." It is nearly Christmas Day.
Chanka dismisses her and, as his friends ply him with sugarcane brandy, the read
er gets more and more uneasy.
But Chanka kept his head on and spat out most of the contents of his mouth into the
spittoon and in the urinal, each time he went to the rear. He complained of his cough
and a dizziness brought on by the drinks.
Night falls, and after Ah Ping's closes Chanka passes out. His pay envelope is lift
ed by Ramsook and Bachan, but Chanka returns home and with a glint in his eye,
pulls out the money from under his bicycle seat. "'Ram and Bachan gone with two
stale sada roti. Let them eat that for Christmas. And is pepper for so,' he added with
In another story, "Secret Love", a village lothario's unnatural death is mourned by
many women, but few men. The ending is too shocking to be revealed, but on reflec
tion it makes a great deal of sense given the conservative values of the community.
There is heartbreak and pathos -.1- in the story of a girl who can't get married
because the odiferous ram goat II I 1 tl h-_ : i' h family is deemed an
unworthy swap. And in "No Ham for I I --- --- ...... boy discovers that his
poverty will not be relieved for even one day.
In any group of stories there are some that resonate more than others, but on the
whole this collection gives a wonderful feel for the downtrodden in rural Trinidad of
a generation ago. The six-, 1 ... of Trini and Indian slang is essential and
was a welcome inclusion. I I ,IIh Chen.
Winches are wonderful things -they give us
tremendous mechanical advantage, which is why we
can tame that -r'-- "-in- The trouble is, at the age
of many of us ... .- .. that mechanical advan
S1 .' seem as powerful as it used to.
i .. o think about hiring a muscular young crew.
But that's not easy for a single-handed old curmudgeon
to find, tolerate and maintain. So the next thing we think
about is buying an electric winch. This would seem to be
the ticket: quiet, undemanding, always at hand ready to
offer service. Then you look at the price tag. Even if you
can afford one, it seems somehow immoral to pay out
something like half the price of a new car for a tiny elec
tric motor that is going to help you crank in a rope.
While I was waiting for my sensibilities to simmer
down, an alternative came up: The Winch Buddy. I had
seen these advertised from time to time and wondered if
they really worked. I even went into one of the distribu
tors a year ago to see if they could give a demonstration,
only to be told they had not yet seen the product.
The Winch Buddy is a basically a rechargeable winch
handle. You can use it on any winch and even take it
over to other boats to help pull people up masts,
etcetera. It costs a small fraction of a quality electric
winch, so the questions that came to my mind were:
does it really work? Do you have to recharge it all the
time? Is it convenient to use?
While I was in the Saintes with Yves Cohen at
Maogany, he got a message from David and Larry, The
Winch Buddy guys, offering to send me one to try. I
was delighted. It came in a big box with virtually no
instructions, but it is simple enough you barely need
any. The basic brawn is provided by a giant, profes
sional, 28-volt, top-quality, Milwaukee right-angle
r--ir - 1- rill The winch bit is nicely engineered
,,I i .,, - -1 i It comes with a single battery and
a one-hour charger. In addition, it has a neoprene coat
that will help protect the winch and, more importantly,
protect your varnish. It also comes with a good carry
ing bag. The actual Winch Buddy weighs about 11
pounds, then the charger and the 11. I. I I I ..... .1 ..
to about 16, which is half the we .1 i .... .
Chris's new friend
may look a little
awkward, but after
sea trials he found 'an
excellent addition to
the crew'. (He means,
ofcourse, the gizmo,
not the gal!)
electric winch (important for us multihullers). The
winch is reversible, which means with a simple flick of
a switch you can go from high speed to low speed on
your winch which you will need to do on hard tasks.
So let us look at the questions I was asking.
Does it work? Yes! This thing is as strong as an ox.
It comes with two handles -the regular pistol grip
with trigger and an optional side-mounted steadying
handle so you can get both hands on it. I found it so
powerful that I like to use both hands when I can,
because it keeps you firmly in control. Even a child
could operate it in this way and do "big men" tasks.
One of the things I find a bit tiresome on my boat is
hoisting the main. When my cat was built, I had all
lines led aft to the cockpit. This is convenient, but
gives me more resistance and a lot less mechanical
advantage than when I used to grab directly on the
halyard at the bottom of the mast, using my body
weight to pull downwards. I "- *n t- notice that for
short distances the thought I i ..I.... up the main
made me sometimes opt i... I i.i .I ..
1i.1I ...... I necessary, 1 . I
1 i. TheWinch Buddy totall-- -;--1 t-P.t
It zips up the main in 30 seconds, at h I I I.
I feel completely fresh. Compare this with hand-grind
ing away for three and half minutes, after which I feel
I have had a work-out .ili. ,.i. ., I flat on my back
-I am not trying to be I ,i II here).
When at anchor I store the Winch Buddy down in
the workshop. I have noticed that for a normal hoist of
the dinghy I do not bother to go down and fetch it
my dinghy is not hard to winch up. But should I feel
tired, or have extra weight in the dinghy, I go down
and get it and it hoists the dinghy like a giant.
It cranks in sails better than a 300- I -ii and
takes much of the work out of shor I I "'. 111 does
take a little effort to pick it up and put in the winch on
every tack.) It works well on the roller furling, as long as
you can lead the furling line to a winch. It rolls it up just
like one of those expensive electrical roller-furlers. I
have not yet pulled someone up the mast with it, but
this will happen next ;... 11. I : up and I am sure
it will work fine. My ... i .... II - has a winch-han
dle top. If the windlass motor ever breaks, this Winch
Buddy will make a great back up. I even fantasize about
an attachment to hook it up my fishing reel!
Do you have to recharge it all the time? On one
charge I hoisted the main four times, hoisted the
dinghy twice, trimmed the jib a few times, and furled
the jib twice. To me it makes sense to recharge it every
couple of sailing days, as it charges in an hour and
you don't want it to run out. You do not have to dis
charge it before you charge it, to protect the battery.
You will need at least a 300-watt inverter to run the
charger, and plenty of battery power for that time.
Is it convenient to use? When I first got it, I wondered
whether having to pick it up all the time was going to
be a big drag, but it is not that bad. It is not as easy as
if all your winches were push-button electric, but it is
a huge step up from "manual-only" grinding.
On a cat like mine the Winch Buddy does not take
up a lot of room, but on pocket cruisers the size would
be a consideration. It is 19 inches long, 8.5 inches
high, and 4 inches wide. I also like to keep the extend
ed steadying handle in place, which is a 10-inch pipe
S. i one side. Although 1. .
II ,, IIh ,I' I II, picking up and usi.., '.
Buddy easier, it is not essential if space is a problem.
The Winch Buddy is by no means waterproof, though
probably robust enough to accept some abuse. If crank
ing in sails while short-tacking to windward is a major
use, then you would need somewhere dry and handy to
store it I think on many monohulls it would convenient
ly tuck up under a spray dodger. If you want it more for
furling the jib, getting your partner up the mast, and
hoisting sails, it will be reasonably convenient to keep it
down below and just bring it out when you need it.
This product works as advertised, takes much of the
...... I t. of sailing, and it needs only the occasion
.i ....-. .. ofjuice; an excellent addition to the crew.
For more information visit www.winchbuddy.com
PT-9900-144 HORTA / FAIAL
TEL +351 292 391616
FAX +351 292 391656
Providing all vital
Services & Repairs
for Trans-Atlantic Yachts
Electronics, Chandlery, Rigging
Bunkered Fuel (+10,0001t)
EU-VAT (15%) Importation
High Power Electric Outboard
Torqeedo, the Germany-based winner of many inno-
vation awards, has recently introduced a high-tech
electric outboard with outstanding thrust. The
Torqeedo Cruise 2.0 offers the thrust force of a six-
brushed stainless steel thermal carafe keeps coffee
hot for up to four hours without a hotplate great for
night watch. The coffeemaker also features a pro-
grammable, 24-hour LED digital clock and timer, with
energy-saving shut-off when it's finished brewing.
For more information visit www. contoure com.
New DC Axial Fans Blow Competition Away
Summer's here, and "It's too hot on my yacht!" Where
compact, high-flow ventilation systems are required,
most fans fall short. With lower electrical requirements,
Delta "T" Systems 23cm DC Marine Axal Fan supplies
two to three times the air volume of traditional small
DC centrifugal marine blowers, while the 28cm model
horsepower gasoline outboard, making it the most
powerful 24-volt outboard on the market. The Cruise is
designed for boats with a displacement of up to three
tons, and can also be used as a high-performance
trolling motor or as a reserve motor for powerboats.
Cutting-edge propeller and motor technologies
enable the Cruise to convert the existing battery sup-
ply into propulsion up to twice as efficiently as con-
ventional electric outboards. Taking into consideration
all losses, including propeller losses, the Cruise 2.0
reaches an impressive overall efficiency of 44 per-
cent. Almost half of the energy stored in the battery
supply is translated into propulsion of the boat.
Conventional electric outboards typically range in the
area of 20 percent, and the overall efficiency of tradi-
tional gas outboards is even lower.
Weighing only 18 kilos, the Cruise is also much lighter
than other outboards in its power class. The motor can
be powered with traditional lead, lead-gel or AGM
batteries, or with Torqeedo's high-performance lithi-
um-manganese big packs.
For more information visit www torqeedo, com.
Brewing on Board
A truly delicious cup of coffee and sailing are no
longer mutually exclusive. Developed with marine and
caravan manufacturers' help, the Contoure
CCM1400 coffeemaker has a variety of installation
options under cabinet, wall mount, or behind a
hideaway door or roll-top shelf. In addition, the
carafe, water reservoir and brewing basket are
designed to remain in place while underway. Perfect
for boating, the convenient unit brews one litre of cof-
fee at the optimum temperature in only seven min-
utes using a 1,000-watt element. The double-insulated,
delivers nearly nine times more air volume. Perfect for
increasing air flow in craft ranging from 10 to 20
metres or for smaller spaces, including engine rooms,
on larger vessels, these fans are now CE approved.
Designed specifically for the harsh marine environ-
ment, each fan features tough, black Teflon epoxy
coating for superior corrosion resistance. A specially-
sealed, DC direct-drive motor provides silent and reli-
able service. Armatures are dynamically balanced for
quiet, vibration-free operation.
For versatile applications, the Delta "T" 23cm Axial Fan
can be used as a "pusher" or "puller" air flow
direction can be changed by simply removing the
hub/shaft clip and reversing the hub. An extractor fan
for the galley or head perhaps?
The Delta "T" Systems Marine Axial Fans are available
in 12 or 24 volt DC, with extended wiring leads for
easy and quick installation.
For more information visit www.deltatsystems.com.
Fuel Sender Detects Water in Fuel
The 3271 NMEA2000 Fuel Sender from Offshore
Systems (UK) Ltd, not only provides a fuel level accu-
rate to +2% but it also detects and sends an alarm if it
detects water contamination in the fuel. This dual
capability in a single sender is unique worldwide and
provides real peace of mind that your boat's fuel is
safe and free from damaging contamination.
The fuel senders are available in lengths up to two
metres (six and a half feet), and are simply cut to
length to fit the tank. They are self-calibrating and
have no moving parts to stick or wear out. They can
also be calibrated to the tank shape so that its
remaining contents can be displayed in litres, US gal-
lons or imperial gallons.
For more information visit www. osukl.com.
Optimizing Boat Refrigeration Systems
SetSail.com has just introduced a "cool" new tool to
the boating community. Freezer Safe is a pocket-sized
battery-operated digital recording thermometer use-
ful for optimizing fridge operation. It features an LCD
graphic display that shows date, time, and high and
low temperatures for 100 days, hours or minutes (the
user decides what time increment to record), and
includes an audible thaw-out alarm. Just a little big-
ger than a pack of chewing gum, it runs on two AAA
batteries. The Freezer Safe monitors temperatures from
-20C to +50C (-5F to +122F), and temperatures can
be set to display in either Celsius or Fahrenheit.
For more information visit www.setsail com/cooltool
There's no need for a boatload of cleaners and polish-
ers to restore and protect a variety of boat surfaces.
Not only an excellent fiberglass reconditioner, Yacht
Brite Buff Magic from Shurhold Industries is also an ideal
metal polish for stainless steel and brass. It restores sur-
faces to their original high-gloss finish and helps keep a
boat looking like new. Buff Magic, applied with
Shurhold's Microfiber Towels, safely removes oxidation,
scratches and dirt in one easy step, without damaging
the finish. The Towel set includes an extra-strong towel
to wash and clean, a super-soft towel to polish and
shine, and a lint-free towel to wipe glass or mirrors. Buff
Magic is a nonabrasive cream polish containing jewel-
ers rouge originally formulated to buff precious met-
als -to bring out maximum luster and a mirrordike fin-
ish. This versatile product also makes quick work of
cleaning and polishing glass, plastic and Pledglas and
was the winner of the 2003 National Marine
Manufacturers Association's Innovation Award.
For more information visit www.shurhold.com.
Boat- (and Eco-) Friendly Washer and Dryer
What if your washing machine and dryer could travel
with you on your boat and save the environment while
saving you money? One Earth-conscious company
has created just that in amazing new products called
the Wonderwash and the countertop Mini Spin Dryer.
Laundry Alternative, Inc. have taken the large bulky
washers and dryers out of the equation by creating
portable, economical products that are changing the
way we think of laundry.
The Wonderwash uses 90 percent less water and
detergent than conventional washing machines and
fits easily on any countertop in your galley or work-
shop. The lightweight and quiet Mini Spin dryer
extracts much more water from clothes than a regular
spin cycle, leaving clothes just slightly damp, ready for
a brief airing above decks.
For more information, visit www.laundry-alternaiive.com.
Disclaimer: Compass Publishing Ltd takes no responsi-
bility for any manufacturer's claims.
UNIQUE IN DOMINICA
THE CITY OF ROSEAU
S Capitainene Tel +7672752851
/ VHF 16 Working CH 19
www dominicamarnnecenter corn
* Dinghy Bar
* Fuel (Marine Diesel) /Water at the dock
* Dinghy dock
* Nearby laundry service
* Secured moorings
* Night security
* Ice & Provisioning (Grocery store)
* Clean restrooms and showers
* Garbage disposal
* Telephone & internet WIFI connection
* Yacht chandlery agents of Budget Marine
& soon Mercury Marine
* Light boat repair and cleaning
* Activity desk (Tours, diving and water sport activities)
* Visa / Master Card accepted
MAINA Du MAIN MAIN MATN .uE F &
MARIN A DU M A IN 9 72 90 IE MARIN MAR TINrQUE F.W.
by Billy Jno Hope
Someone shouts my name as I enter the prison yard. I immediat-l-- r---ni- th-
con man's voice of the slickest fish hustler I ...ii. ... for -.,,- i i, ,, -
but fail to pick him out from the crowd ol I i. I I...... .1 Most likely he is in
lock-down, staring out through iron bars. As I continue my journey to visit another
ghetto brethren, I can't help but reminisce about our strange symbiotic relationship.
Most days he came in the afternoon shouting my name from the streets.
Sometimes I cringed. Other times I smiled, shook my head and headed out. He
would be standing outside with a plastic bag in his hands. His hustler's pitch
"I have real good fish for you today, Billy."
"Fresh, fresh fish, my brother."
"I even cleaned it for you."
i me ten dollars for the three pounds."
S-. me what you have."
Sometimes I refused. He had a tendency to offer me mutilated fish. I suspect
these were fish that were discarded by the fishermen on the shore. He would leave
dejected, bowing his lanky frame to the street, on his desperate quest to con anoth
On many occasions he brought fresh, mouth-watering fish. I always bought it from
him at bargain prices. He never complained and always promised to hook me up
with more. Most times I gave him ten dollars. It was our magic number.
I knew that .- ...... 11. money to get his fix. I knew that he never ate the fish
that he was I" II,. ... lie would bypass his house to reach my place on the
hill. This was a madness I never quite fathomed.
Eventually the madness came to a head. His addiction broke him. They caught
him while he was hustling on the waterfront. I was forced to find another source to
satisfy my palate's lust for fresh fish cuisine.
'I/0krom lo/t'rom i'D/t'rom
BARBADOS GRENADA ST. VINCENT V PRIVATE JE T HANDLING SERVICES
SBEQUIA BEQUIA MUSTIQUE Private Jet Charters available
.CANOUAN CANOUAN CANOUAN
CARRIACOU UNION UNION to and from allpoints within the
MYSTIQUEE CARRIACOU CARIBBEAN & SOUTH AMERICA
.I ...I. 1
. .... business Briefs
: i: : :i:,,r ,: i,,-. +: and know-how in order to enter the system at the
appropriate level. During a week-long course of tuition," Sparks explains, "instruc-
tors use RYA guidelines to teach the required skills, while monitoring each student's
proficiency level, performance and knowledge against the required standards."
Three RYA courses available through Offshore Sailing School are taught at its British
Virgin Islands base, under the direction of Michael Domican, Chief RYA Instructor
and Managing Director of the school's Caribbean locations. These are:
"Competent Crew" covering basic seamanship and helmsmanship, (similar to
Offshore Sailing School's Learn to Sail course but taught on a larger yacht); "Day
Skipper" including basic piloting, boat handling, seamanship and navigation;
and "Coastal Skipper" covering passage planning, piloting by day and night,
boat handling, safety and emergency situations.
"The RYA school recognition process is arduous, leaving no detail behind," declares
Sparks. Three Offshore Sailing School instructors who recently participated in the
grueling RYA examination process proudly carry RYA Yachtmaster papers. The
RYA Yachtmaster@ qualification, which is accredited by the British Government, "is
now the certificate of choice for commercial yacht skippers worldwide," reports
James Stevens, RYA Training Manager and Chief Examiner.
For more information visit www. offshoresailing. com.
Venezuelan (and More) for Cruisers!
Cambur, lechosa, parchita, caraotas,
botuto these are the Venezuelan
Spanish words for banana, papaya, pas-
sion fruit, beans, and conch and they're
all chevere (fantastic)!
Venezuelans have their own words for A
many of their indigenous fruits and veg-
etables, and you'll want to know them
(and be able to pronounce them!) when .
you shop in the markets and supermar- f'
kets. To help you with your shopping,
there's a new "Venezuelan Food i I '
Shopping List" Cheat Sheet available for A
free download on the www.spanishfor- i
cruisers.com website. There are several .
other free cheat sheets available on the "
website as well, including a Food
Shopping List for Mexico, in case you're i
headed west. And if you're sailing in the
French islands, check out the cheat
sheets on the www.frenchforcruisers.com
Kathy Parsons' popular books French for
Cruisers and Spanish for Cruisers are avail- ,,
able at bookstores and chandleries or via
Promoting Luxury Caribbean Yachting
Two well-known yachting industry veterans have joined The Escapes Group to pro-
duce the new publication Yachting Escapes: Caribbean. This upscale, oversized
hardcover book will showcase luxury yachting experiences in premier Caribbean
destinations for large yacht owners and luxury charter clients. Veteran yachting
magazine editor Louisa Rudeen Beckett has been named the publication's editor,
and luxury marine and waterfront property broker Ginger Hornaday is co-publisher.
Top Caribbean yacht clubs and marinas that cater to the megayacht market will
be featured in Yachting Escapes: Caribbean, which will be distributed to luxury
yacht owners and charter clients free of charge.
The publication will provide the high-end reader with an exclusive preview of the
most memorable yachting experiences the Caribbean has to offer. It will feature
editorial descriptions and lush, full-color photography of 16 unforgettable island
destinations and 50 exceptional megayacht marinas and yacht clubs, selected by
invitation only. It will also reveal each destination's must-experience restaurants,
shops, activities and landmarks. Yachting Escapes: Caribbean is designed to inspire
yachtsmen to enjoy the good life available in these island destinations, and this
chic coffee-table book will give access to luxury product manufacturers and serv-
ice providers to this coveted niche. An exclusive selection of yacht builders, charter
agencies and yachting services as well as luxury items and opulent destinations will
Members of the luxury yachting industry have heartily endorsed the project. "For
the megayacht owner or charterer, this concept provides streamlined access to all
the best that the Caribbean island destinations have to offer," said Hank Halsted,
President of Northrop and Johnson Newport, who also serves as Director of the
annual Newport and St. Barth's Bucket mega sailing yacht regattas.
For more information visit www. Escapes-Group com.
In addition to our famous pizza we offer
seasonal specialties and fresh baked goods.
Open from 11:00am to 10:00pm.
Closed on Mondays
Situated in Admiralty Bay, Bequia between
the Frangipani and Plantation House.
For Reservations: VHF Ch68 or Tel: (784) 458 3474
For me, a highlight of life in a Trinidad boatyard was a trip to the early Saturday
morning produce market in Port of Spain. I would gulp down a quick cup of coffee and
1,, ,, ff i 1. ..... ; .1 1 ;1. 1 rge rucksack and a couple of voluminous
1. i i .- ii i i .. i .1. 1I to await the minibus, organized by Jesse
James. In total 11i ... 1.1 1 li., ,, 1 .. 1 s from the various boatyards.
By 7:00 the :.. .. I I ... i.. ...- .. I .. I jockeying to get in. Theentrance
hall is lined with snack vendors' stalls; but we only have one hour to cover the entire
market so we ignore such delicacies as goat roti or cov 1 1 1.. 1... ...1 ,,
any case seem very attractive so early in the morning). A I. ...i I ..... I I.
A massive concrete building houses the meat and fish stalls. Not, perhaps, a place
for the faint hearted or the squeamish, as whole carcasses are being butchered into
saleable joints and the occasional head of a pig or a cow lies amongst the displays
on the counter slabs. In one corner, live chickens peer out of an overcrowded crate.
I move on, leaving meat purchases until last, and emerge into the open air.
Avibrant, jostling crowd ...- .... ...-1 11. i... .i i .11 ered market spills
out onto the *- -l;;n: -, i i 1,11 l .,,,I ., I are innumerable
stalls, each .. 111 . 1 Perhaps this lady sells nothing but bananas. That man, noth
ing but chili peppers; hot or sweet. The ne-r :t .11 1. -; -; .. tomatoes and cucum
ber; but another stall over there has bigger i ,, i i i i, there are little bunch
e I i i... ,,. ,I I .t some of everything. I obtain some jars of a superb hot
I i.... I, ,,,,i gourd, which, several weeks later, burst open to reveal
some 40 Brazil nuts within. In my excitement, I must not forget potatoes, eggs and cheese.
My bags are getting heavy and time is ticking on. I head back into the meat mar-
ket and acquire some excellent steak and a joint of pork. Lastly I go to where effi
cient fishmongers will clean and scale my choice of their catch. Do I want it filleted
Above: By seven
market at Port of
Spain is well
Right: I bought a
Brazil nut gourd,
which burst open
or in steaks? Do I want the head and backbone to make soup? As we are still living
in a boat which is on the hard, and as the temperature on board will soon rise to a
humid 35 degrees Celsius -perhaps not!
We cram our overladen bags under the seats of the bus. After a short visit to a
supermarket, we are back in the boatyard by 9:30. The driver tours the boatyard to
drop each one of us off as close as possible to our own vessel and I hasten to stock
the fridge and the freezer with my purchases.
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ou MOHR Tel: (784) 458 8316
Union I land Bougainvilla@vincysurf .com
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What would Caribbean cuisine be without coconuts?
Callaloo, pilau, and "oil dong would be bland, pas
tries usual, and rum watery. The coconut is one of
nature's most useful trees. What else would shade the
beaches; where would hammocks tie; how would we
cook without coconuts?
The coconut's origin is a mystery. Scientists believe
it was first grown over 3,000 years ago in southeast
Asia or northwestern South America. In ancient
Sanskrit tablets the coconut is named kalpa vriksha,
which means "the tree that provides everything neces
sary for life". The coconut palm leaves can be woven
into hats or stripped to make simple brooms. The
husks can be stripped into a fiber called coir and
woven into mats, fishnets, paintbrushes and rope.
Islands in the Indian Ocean used discs carved from
coconuts as currency until 1910.
Ocean currents have distributed floating nuts
throughout the world and coconuts now grow every
where that has a true tropical climate. The nuts will
only grow between 28 degrees north and south lati
tude the closer to the equator the better. All the
hundreds of varieties of coconuts belong to the same
species. Trees can grow to 80 feet or bear as short as
six feet. The nuts can be red, yellow, orange, green,
brown or double. Spanish explorers -- the common
name, coco, which means monkey: because the
three dark spots at the inner shell's base look like a
wide eyed face.
It takes ten to 12 months for a nut to mature on the
palm. Yearly a tree usually can produce 40 or more
nuts. Certain trees can bloom ten times a year, so
nuts will be continuously available. Coconuts may be
harvested at different ages for different purposes. A
young (less than six months old) nut has "jelly" inside,
as the white meat has not yet formed. Since coconut
water is sterile, it has been used intravenously as a
substitute for glucose. Fresh nuts can be stored up to
Mature nuts are processed for their oil, a saturated
fat, used for cooking, religious ceremonies, or soap.
Processed coconut has less than three percent mois
ture, but is 68 percent oil. Grating or =h-1-l1.i th-
mature meat also produces the world's -i i .....i -.
type of dried coconut slivers used in cooking, baking
and candy. Coconut flesh can be dried, grated, pow
dered, flaked, toasted, frozen, and reconstituted.
The almost-clear liquid in a coconut is not coconut
milk but coconut water. To make true coconut milk,
boil equal parts of shredded coconut and water, sim-
mer and strain it. 'Coco Loco' or other varieties of
sweetened cream of coconut used in pina coladas are
not the same as canned coconut milk.
One regular-sized coconut should yield three cups
grated meat and one cup of liquid. If your grated
coconut dries, it can be reconstituted by adding milk
to it for half an hour. Drain off the milk and let the
coconut dry on paper towels.
Spicy Saltfish Avocado Guacamole
1/4 pound saltfish without bones
1 medium ripe avocado
1/2 hot pepper, minced as fine as possible
1/2 Cup canola oil
1/4 Cup vegetable oil
1/4 Cup lemon juice
1 clove garlic, minced
1 Tablespoon fresh parsley
1/2 Cup breadcrumbs
1/4 Cup coconut milk
Salt and spice to taste
= .1 .li ,.1 .... 1. 1. .... .nd rinse. In a skillet,
: 11 1 . 111.11 .. I .1 -. I and then shredwith
a fork. In a bowl, mash avocado with the saltfish and
then mix with remaining ingredients. Chill before serv
ing with biscuits or toast.
1 Cup dry lentils, washed
2 Tablespoons grated fresh ginger
1 medium onion, chopped
2 cloves of garlic, minced
1 Tablespoon canola oil
1 teaspoon turmeric powder
2 Cups chicken broth
1 Cup coconut milk
1/2 Cup chopped sweet green pepper
1/2 cup chopped ripe tomatoes
1/4 hot red pepper (can be removed before serving)
Salt and spices to taste
In a large soup pot heat the oil and add the onion,
ginger and garlic. Add turmeric powder, chicken
broth, hot pepper, and lentils. Bring to a boil and then
simmer for 20 minutes. Add tomatoes, sweet pepper,
and coconut milk and simmer for ten more minutes.
Easy Crustless Coconut Pie
4 eggs, beaten
1 Cup sugar
1/2 Cup baker's flour
4 Tablespoons melted butter or margarine
2 Cups grated coconut
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
Mix all ingredients together, preferably in the above
order. Pour into a i-' 1 baking dish or pie pan.
Bake at 350OF for i .. "....,' es.
Coconut Rice Pudding
1/2 Cup uncooked rice
1 cinnamon stick (or 1 Tablespoon ground cinnamon)
2 Cups coconut milk
1/4 Cup sugar (preferably brown)
In a medium saucepot place rice and cinnamon stick,
cover with water and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and
simmer until water is absorbed. Remove cinnamon stick
before adding coconut milk, vanilla and sugar. Simmer
until rice is creamy. Remove from heat and allow to cool.
Mango or pineapple pieces may be added before serving.
To grow a tree, simply find a tree with the type of
nuts you enjoy. Scan the area to find any fallen nuts
which may have already sprouted. Take them home
and plant them -sprout side up, of course! If none
are sprouting, select fallen mature nuts and sprout
them at home. Nuts kept damp usually sprout a stalk
in three to four months. I find the easiest way to
sprout a coconut is to place it in a drain. Be watchful
a heavy rain doesn't wash it away.
A coconut tree should begin to bear five to six years
after planting. Dwarf coconut trees make harvesting
easy. It is recommended to plant dwarf coconut palms
at least 20 feet apart, or from fence lines or structures.
tS RaTTErS A UrIf
a la Mer
I'm Luke, Chef de Cuisine and new man
ager of Whisper Cove Marina in Clarke's
Court Bay at the south of Grenada.
I 11 I I I h ,,, I .
I hope you enjoy!
Palavas Les Flots Fish Soup
4 to 6 reef fishes (2 to 3 pounds)
1 lobster head or 2 crabs
2 large onions
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 tablespoons tomato puree
3 Tablespoons olive oil
1 garlic head (6 to 8 cloves)
1 egg yolk
1 potato (or mashed potato powder)
4 bread slices
For the soup, clean the fish and cut
the fins off with scissors. It is not nec
essary to scale the fish. Cut the fish
into coarse chunks.
In a large pan heat some olive oil and
brown the fish well over a high heat.
Then remove the fish.
Reduce the heat, add finely chopped
onions and cook until translucent, stir
ring and scraping the bottom of the pan
with a spatula.
Add tomato puree, 2 litres of water,
the fish and bring to the boil over high
heat. When the soup boils, skim the
foam from the surface and retain this
foam for use later in the aioli.
Add the peeled whole potato, to be
used later in the aioli, and simmer for
20 minutes. Remove the potato and
puree for later use. Continue simmer
ing the soup for a further 40 minutes.
Sieve the soup and press the bones
firmly through a cloth to recover all the
juices. Discard the bones.
For the aioli, with mortar and pestle
combine garlic, egg yolk and cayenne
pepper (a blender is almost as good), to
create a smooth paste.
Add the olive oil slowly in a steady
stream with equal amounts of water.
(This will lighten the mixture, though
purists will disapprove.)
Add the pureed potato, the foam
skimmed earlier from the soup, salt
and pepper. Cover and chill.
Toast the bread, and grate the cheese.
To serve: in a soup plate, first put in
a slice of bread, add some cheese and 2
Tablespoons aioli, then pour in the
soup (very hot).
WHACHA GONNA DO WITH ALL THOSE....
by Mary Heckrotte
Got excess avocados?
Try these unusual recipes.
2 Cups plain flour
3/4 Cup sugar
1 1/2 teaspoons
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 large egg
1/2 Cup mashed avocado
1/2 Cup buttermilk
1/2 Cup pecans, chopped
In a large mixing bowl, mix together flour, sugar, baking powder,
baking soda, and salt. In a small mixing bowl, combine egg and avo
cado until smooth. Add buttermilk and mix well. Pour avocado mix
ture into flour mixture and blend well. Fold in the pecans. Pour into
a generously greased 9"x5" loaf pan and bake at 375F for about 50
minutes or until a wooden toothpick inserted in the center comes
Psalty's Avocado Pie
(recipe from Myra, S/VPsalty)
1/2 Cup lemon juice
1 can sweetened condensed milk
8 ounces cream cheese
1 large avocado, peeled, pitted, pureed
1 graham cracker pie crust
Blend all ingredients and pour into pie crust. Cover and chill
4 hours or overnight. Makes 8 servings.
and Other Things
by Arlene Walrond
As a true Trini I feel that I must defend our callaloo. I'm referring to an article that
appeared in the May issue of the Compass. I realize the author said she adapted that
recipe from a Trinidadian high school's cookbook, but that is not "Trinidad Callaloo"!
ii. ... i. ..i are basically the same, with some important variations, and the
:I,. I i I ... also makes a difference. I would like to share my family's recipe.
12 dasheen leaves (or whatever name you may know it by) with about six inches
of stem attached
1 large sweet pepper, chopped
1 green hot pepper
2 Cups coconut milk
2 Cups water
1/2 pound of pumpkin, peeled and diced
8 ochroes (okra), sliced
6 1 ... d and crushed
1 i I i of celery, chopped finely
1 Tablespoon of butter or cooking margarine
Salt to taste (omit if using salted meat)
Crabs and salted pork or beef (optional)
Its not really necessary to have the stems attached to the leaves but it is more con
venient to do so. Peel the stem all the way down the veins on the back of the leaves,
then chop leaves finely. Or, if the leaves are young and tender, they can be rolled
and tied in a knot (the traditional way actually); chop them and stems as well.
Next, place all the solid ingredients except the hot pepper in a deep cooking pot
then pour all liquid in and place on stove. Put the hot pepper in the centre, on top
of everything, and do not allow it to be submerged. Cook for half an hour on medi
Remove pot from heat, take out pepper and discard. If you forget to remove the
pepper or cause it to rupture while in the pot then "crapaud smoke yuh pipe" as we
say in Trinidad.
Next you swizzle the callaloo for about five minutes then return pot to heat and
simmer for a half hour more or until required consistency is attained, repeating the
swizzling process at intervals. If you don't have a swizzle stick then whisk vigorous
ly with an egg beater. You are aiming for a smooth, mushy texture -not too runny
nor too dry, where all of the chopped ingredients are nicely blended together to the
point where the individual items cannot be easily identified. While cooking add water
if needed, a little at a time.
Bear in mind this method of making callaloo has been passed from generation
to generation for more than a hundred years, back in the days before electric
blenders and fancy beaters. Originally the swizzle stick (some called it le-le stick)
was a small branch, usually from the sapodilla tree, with a cluster of twigs sprout
ing from one end (clipped short) forming natural prongs. The bark was removed
and there you had it. The modern ones are made of wood, some with rolled wire
at one end. The persons I've shared this recipe with in the past are more familiar
with the swizzle stick that is used to stir drinks with. Maybe you have a swizzle
stick but call it by a different name. Here's how it's done. Place handle between
closed palms and roll back and forth swiftly. If the leaves are old ar. 1 i .. 1 as
they sometimes are, then mid-way through cooking remove meat or .1i .ny,
and put callaloo in blender (you might want to let it cool for a bit first) for a sec
ond or two then return to pot and continue cooking. Too much time in the blender
will change the texture drastically.
Another thing I want to touch on are the root and leaves pictured in the article. In
Trinidad that root is called tannia, the leaves of which we have always believed to be
inedible. What we know of as dasheen in Trinidad looks a lot different, and so do the
leaves. To identify the root when cooked, if it ain't blue it ain't true!
Moving on. In February's Compass I read an article on cassava where the writer
said that the only problem with cassava is that it spoils relatively quickly. Since
reading that I've been wondering how to share this information and I'm glad of this
opportunity to do so now. On a visit home some time ago a market vendor shared
this secret with me. I say secret because if she told this to all of her customers it
would be bad for business. I would like to pass it on to Compass readers who might
be interested. To preserve cassava over time, you need to buy freshly dug ones to
begin with. Cut off both ends and if it is milky white with no discoloration then it's
good. Peel, rinse lightly and seal in plastic' -: .'id place in freezer. Once a frozen
state is maintained it can last for months. i. ready to use, don't thaw -just
drop into a pot of boiling water. I've tried it and it really works.
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Read in Next Month's Compass:
T&T's Operation Optimist
In Defense of Yacht Hitch-Hikers
Marine Survey throughout the Caribbean
PURCHASE INSURANCE DAMAGE
Accredited Marine Surveyor
Society of Accredited Marine Surveyors
RYA Ocean Yachtmaster (Commercial)
Accreditation American Boat and Yacht Council
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I would like to respond to the letter from Derrick
Harvey in the May issue. I think it is important that
people understand that using a strobe light as an
anchor light is illegal, and therefore not simply a mat
ter of choice. I was surprised that no one has men
tioned that the use of a strobe light for any purpose,
other than distress, is specifically prohibited by the
International : ..i. ...- for the Prevention of
Collision at Sea .i i i -j These regulations cover
any vessel at sea, commercial or pleasure, regardless
of nationality. COLREGS Rule 37 specifies that a
strobe light is a distress -,.,. .... F- paragraph 2
specifies that the use o -I. I .j. for any other
purpose, than distress, is prohibited. All vessels must
adhere to these rules and violators are subject to fines
and imprisonment. Captains and crew are required to
be familiar with all the COLREGS. The COLREGS are
not long and for the most part easy to understand.
You can find a copy of the COLREGS in Chapman's
Seamanship and Small Boat Handling, and on-line.
Simply Google it.
To Mr. Harvey,
I've lived full time for 24 years on a sailboat and am
truly annoyed by strobe lights, which can be really dis
turbing at night landfalls in already too-well-lit harbors.
Since my thoughts about the arrogance of your
answer to Laura Sargent could not be possibly print
ed, I'll just let you read Article 29, (2) of the Universal
Declaration of Human Rights, about liberties, which is
lot more eloquent:
Article 29, (2) In the exercise of his rights and free
doms, everyone shall be subject only to such limitations
as are determined by law solely for the purpose of
securing due recognition and respect for the rights and
freedoms of others andofmeeting the just requirements
of morality, public order and the general welfare in a
J.L. of St. Barth
Editor's note: For the full Universal Declaration of
Human Rights visit
To finish the discussion about the use of strobe
lights in an .1-h-r-.- T -m surprised that nobody
has brought 'I1.' II. .1 international rules that
everyone must have on board as required by the law.
Does everyone have it on board for sure?
If we take the US Department of Transportation, for
example, the ... .. rules from the US Coast
Guard (page : ... i J say:
International lights and shapes: A vessel of less than
50 meters in length may exhibit an all around white
light where it can be best be seen instead of the lights
prescribed in paragraph (a) of this rule.
Paragraph (a): a vessel at anchor shall exhibit where
it can be seen....
That's the first step.
Second step: same publication (page 124, rule 36).
Signals to attract attention: If necessary to attract the
attention of another vessel, any vessel may make light
or sound signals that cannot be mistaken for any signal
authorized elsewhere in these Rules, or may direct the
beam of her searchlight in the direction of the danger,
in such a way as not to embarrass any vessel
Any light to attract the attention of another vessel
shall be such that it cannot be mistaken for any aid to
For the purpose of this rule the use of high intensity
intermittent or revolving lights, such as strobe lights,
shall be avoided.
This cannot be more clear and I do not want to imag
ine what could happen regarding responsibility if an
It is a cruel world where you must avoid using the
strobe light you had invested in with such pleasure.
Have a good night and AVOID trouble,
Motor Yacht Bobato
PS. An anchor light must be visible at two miles. This
excludes the solar lights that come from the garden.
Hello again, Cruisers,
So we have complaints in the May and June issues
about Customs and Immigration officers in Jolly
Harbour, Antigua. Is this to say that you never have a
bad day? In Antigua, sometimes the guys have to clear
boats with ten or 15 in the crew, and as I recall when I
was "deep sea" that is a lot of work. In English Harbour
as well as Jolly there can be a lot of work with small
'.t: ,- and going all day during the season.
S to realize that the Customs and
Immigration officers are the first barrier against dodgy
people. They are policemen first and foremost.
They are also the first to meet the bombastic attitude
of a lot of people that arrive in these islands. I was in
St. Barts one time when an American superyacht cap
tain said that he only had US dollars to pay for the har
bour duties. The official was the peak of courtesy and
suggested that he change this stuff into Euros at the
bank. You can imagine the reaction to this. But in the
end the fool had to get the correct currency to clear.
In addition to turning up with the proper money,
1 -,'t f- t that your boat should be flying a nice big
...I In in the correct position. And stop moan
ing. Be happy. Enjoy the privilege of being here. Don't
whinge about something like Customs and
......... .i., These guys are here to do a job, and
i .. i 1 I they are not getting the wages that you
would work for in your countries.
Oh, by the way. In the Caribbean we don't have
Immigration men with guns on their waist, like in the
Hi there, Fellow Cruisers,
My disappointment makes me write to you all. I have
not only read in the Caribbean Compass, which is a
1----1-- -'-in- for us to peruse, I have also heard
ti .... I I i cruiserss that we met along the way, of
the one cruiser that announced in the Caribbean
Compass, in reference to the Margarita Net (which
starts at 8:00AM local time), that he wishes not to hear
the so-called rubbish but just the weather and the
May I say that I have been privileged to be in
Porlamar three times in the last year or so, and I have
taken a great deal of pleasure listening to the laughs
and jokes that come with the morning net. I find
myself in Porlamar awaiting the greatness of this one
gentleman that makes us all laugh and smile. I have
spoken to a lot of cruisers about this one gentleman
and his jovialness brings us great smiles and laughter.
Now I have found myself disappointed just because of
one grumpy sailor.
The anchorage at Porlamar can sometimes experi
ence strong winds from the tropical systems that can
rip through the harbour gusting up to 50 knots; some
times boats drag and even into each other which
leaves your knees knocking together. So to have some
one who is entertaining in the morning and brings us
closer together is a great thing -well, it was a great
thing. I personally think (and I know other yachties
do) that this great man should st-rt hi" bt' net
going again and I would greatly I .1 .' you
could announce this.
Thank you very much and keep up the good work.
Yacht Raven Eye
To be accurate, in his letter in the May Readers'
Forum Erich Beyer did not single out the Margarita Net
nor did he call it rubbish". He simply said that it was
his choice to stop listening to any of the morning VHF
cruisers' nets 'from George Town in the Bahamas to
Porlamar in Venezuela" because he personally found
much of the content "useless". Naturally, there are
other cruisers who appreciate the variety of information
- from weather to social announcements -given on
the VHF nets throughout the region, and we hope you
will inform us when the Porlamar Net is back on the air.
Dear Compass Readers,
I would be most grateful for your assistance in put
ting me in touch with a forum contributor, Skipper
Erich Beyer, whose vessel, Key of ife, was in a bay in
Los i -1.. in early April 2006. I am trying to deter
mini .1 1. .ecalls another vessel that moored in the
bay near the Key ofLife. I can be phoned at (206) 654
2433 or e-mailed at firstname.lastname@example.org (if you pro
vide a number, I will call back).
Continued on next page
Continued from previous page
Re: Info & Updates June 2007 "Moorings for Nevis".
Mr. Spencer Henley, Nevis Air and Sea Ports
Authority General "'nT -r states that "we believe
that yachtspeople I I up to a mooring rather
than drop an anchor". How badly this misconception
could affect the yachting segment of his country's
tourism business. Mr. Henley goes on to state that "we
have not yet determined whether it will be mandatory
to use the moorings".
Moorings are one of the undesirable factors that
cruisers use where i-.:.i. In anchorage. In the
Compass Readers' ...." -- (Caribbean Compass,
May 2007), yachtspeople's feelings about moorings are
clearly spelled out by their responses:
"The "n --r..- --hr --itl;.lly nobody wants to be
suffers I. ... .... I i I ..- harassment, noise, an
unclean environment and overcrowding. Lack of facil
ities was not of much concern. Other undesirable fac
tors written in include nuisance boatboys, too many
moorings in the good anchoring spots, and lack of
respect from other watercraft operators including jet
ski users, speedboat drivers and anchoring-chal
This is little different from the results of the 2004
"According to this year's survey respondents... The
anchorage where NOBODY wants to be suffers from
security problems, harassment, noise, an unclean
environment, and overcrowding... Other undesirable
factors written in included too many moorings, moor
ingfees, rolling, too great a depth for anchoring, and
mosquitoes. Most respondents did not want to be in
an anchorage with jet-skis."
Interestingly, in the same June issue of the
Compass in which the notice about moorings in Nevis
appears, Don Street's article on harbors and moor
ings is spot on. Moorings were installed initially in the
BVI as a strictly commercial proposition. Therefore
one wonders whether the Nevis Air and Sea Ports
Authority's prime motivation was protecting the
seabed and marine life, or have they succumbed to
Moor Seacure's sales pitch: "look at the BVI, over
ninety percent of our moorings are rented every night
during season"? Left unsaid is the fact that the moor
ings in the BVI are virtually all rented by bareboat
charterers. How many bareboats visit Nevis as com-
pared to the number of private yachts? (Editor's note:
It was mainly private yacht owners who responded to
the Compass surveys mentioned)
I don't know if the seabed in Nevis is in danger,
although both Chris Doyle and Don Street say in their
cruising guides that the prime anchoring area has a
sand bottom. I do know that when Nevi- :- h 'head
with the mooring plans, its seabed will i i....I I not
be disturbed by yachts -nor will the businesses and
vendors who previously relied on yacht tourism.
I really believe that it would be in the best interests
of the islands that if, before they go too far in their
planning for changes that could negatively impact
their yacht-tourism industry, the people in charge talk
with their customers to find out what their needs and
wants are, and not rely on anecdotal comments or the
opinions of a few who are too far removed from the
reality of cruising.
S/V Second Millennium
Dear Caribbean Compass,
I noticed in your June, 2007, edition a small
announcement that Nevis is about to put in 100 Moor
S--;;r- r--ri;n= for yachts, supposedly because
1. 1i. i to tie up to a mooring." Another
reason given is to protect the sea floor.
I have seen this trend spread through the islands
and have :-- ;.1 i.;. i-
As a crt..- 1 1 I I .nchor, for peace of mind,
because it does not cost US$15 or $20 or even $25 to
spend the night and because I can't stand the bang,
bang, banging of the ball against the yachts hull. To
add insult to injury, Moor Secure's "contract" with the
ii..,,. cruisers demands that should the wind
i i' knots of speed, the yacht must be removed
immediately. Thats great. When the weather is really
bad and you really want to be securely attached to the
bottom, you have to pick up in the middle of a storm,
possibly in the pitch-black r ,, .1I and go who knows
where along with dozens i 11. hapless displaced
and sometimes not very seasoned boaters. Now that's
a deal I could live without, thank you! The reason for
this, of course, is because Moor Secure says their
moorings aren't safe in such weather and, although
they don't say it, they are doing it to be off the hook
liability-wise, and your insurance may also well be in
jeopardy if you stay.
Asforthecostof the i .- ... .....- v-
ings from not having tc i ... ..... i .11 .. to
spend my money on shore at local businesses, such as
restaurants, vegetable markets, gift stores and rental
By contrast, when there is an expensive mooring
that I must use, I spend less time on the island, less
money on shore, or I simply go elsewhere -say to
Further, when Moor Seacure comes to town, they
inevitably place their balls exactly where it is safe and
easy to anchor, rather than in places where mooring
balls really would be useful. This accomplishes two
things for them: They don't have to use much chain
and they squeeze out or eliminate the anchorage for
those who would rather anchor.
I am not sure what Moor Seacur-' .'- t !
with the various islands, but I do ii .. I
I am concerned and as far as a lot of other cruisers are
concerned, were o i .i. I- ... i i 1 with
the local businesses- .1 I I ... on a
mooring -money that does not go into the local econ
omy (except perhaps into government coffers in the
case of moorings). From the island government's point
of view, they would do better charging more in cus
toms fees, not have mooring balls and cut out the mid
dle man: Moor Seacure.
If Nevis is indeed going to put in moorings, which, to
me, seem particularly unnecessary on an island where
the anchoring is excellent, then perhaps they would
consider putting them in deep water where it is too
deep to anchor. I know governments like to get their
money directly from every source, not indirectly from
local merchants, but in 1. .- I... ....- they are
getting that money at t I I I ical busi
ness people and the enrichment of Moor Seacure, and
that seems a terrible shame.
I spent about a week in Nevis this year and spent
quite a bit of money at the local market, the Sunshine
Bar and at other local restaurants (excellent lobster
sandwiches), but having to pay for a mooring every
night while I am there in the future could severely
dampen my enthusiasm for spending money ashore,
or even visiting Nevis.
Thank you for the short-wave weather report fre
quencies in the June issue. Unfortunately assembling
a table like this invites comments when a discrepancy
BBC short wave frequencies change frequently. To get
the up-to-date schedule go to www.bbc.co.uk/
The current BBC schedule (times in UTC) is:
1100 to 1300 9660 & 9480
2100 to 2200 11675 & 13640
2200 to 2300 5795 & 13640
On another subject: As ocean travelers we are most
ly interested in wind and waves, but ocean currents
can also affect our progress. We have been crossing
the area between Tobago and the Windwards in our
sailboat for 16 years and have a pretty good idea of
what to expect in this regard as far as where the cur
rent is strongest.
This year has been different however. We recently
completed a trip from Bequia to Tobago, which took
40 percent longer than it usually does due to an
uncommonly strong northwest current and a weak
southeast wind. Our usual current-avoidance tac
tics did not work. At times I was reading a difference
of 2.5 knots between my knot meter and the GPS.
Earlier in the month we traveled from Bequia to
Martinique using the windward sides of St. Vincent
and St. Lucia. This is a route we take whenever
there is a southerly component to the wind in the
forecast. This year we did the trip in record time,
due no doubt to a stronger than usual northerly
current along both coasts.
I would be interested to hear about the experience of
other boats that travel these waters regularly.
Dick McClary's article "Overboard" in the June issue
was a rare gem; it had my heart in my mouth while I
was laughing at the same time, and was well written
with not a word wasted.
Perhaps it was particularly poignant because it
reminded me of many not dissimilar events when I
was sailing with my best friend and partner at that
time. He had a habit of leaping overboard.
On one tuitional charter I was supervising the
women on the helm and my partner was showing the
guys how to bring down the jib when his hat flew off.
He did no more than dive in after it.
Heaving a sigh of impatience (he was always
doing that sort of thing) I left the women and
helped the guys get the jib down. I had started giv
ing instructions on bringing the main down when
one of the guests meekly asked, "Aren't we going
back for B ?"
His escapades had become so routine I had forgot
ten him for the moment. I looked back over the stern
and could just see the black bobble of his head.
"If we must," I quipped, missing out entirely on a
wonderful man-overboard teaching opportunity and
setting the worst example I can possibly think of.
Continued on next page
Independent Boatyard St. Thomas, USVI
47 Stevens, 1981 $ 210,000
44 Beneteau Oceanis, 1994 $185,000
44 CSY walkover, 1978 $ 79,000
42 Hunter Passage, 1995 $159,000
42 Catalina MKII, 1996 $121,900
38 Kennex Catamaran, 1992 $139,000
37 C&C, 1985 $ 48,600
36 Frers, 1985 $ 48,500
35 Morgan, 1971 $ 29,000
34 Tartan 1988 $ 49,000
32 Gulf Pilot House, 1966 $ 32,000
32 Bristol, 1976 $ 22,000
55 Cheoy Lee LRC, 1980 $329,000
50 Marine Trader, 1980 $149,000
45 Silverton MY, 2003 $ 415,000
37 Fountaine Pagot Trawler $ 445,000
34 Mainship, 1979 $ 30,000
27 Grady White, 1997 $ 40,000
26 Fortier w/cuddy, 1985 $ 59,900
The insurance business has changed.
No longer can brokers talk of low rates.
Rather, the honest broker can only say,
"I'II do my best to minimize your increase!"
There is good insurance, there is cheap
insurance, but there is no good cheap
insurance.You never know how good your
insurance is until you have a claim.
Then, if the claim is denied
or unsatisfactorily settled,
it is too late.
I have been in the insurance business
40 years, 36 with Lloyds, and my claims
settlement record cannot be beat.
Fax DM Street
Iolaire Enterprises (353) 28 33927
or e-mail: email@example.com
Leading Broker in Ihe rench islands
Th motvid pecidlod web site in k Caribbean
Oping bA US a European Markets
Benefit from currency rate
BUY STREET'S GUIDES
Real sailors use Street's Guides for inter-island and harbor
piloting directions, plus interesting anecdotes of people,
places and history. Street's Guides are the only ones that
describe ALL the anchorages in the Eastern Caribbean.
Real sailors also buy the other guides, that have pretty
pictures and describe hotels, bars, restaurants and
anchorages that are popular with bareboaters.
Real sailors circle in Street's Guide the anchorages that
are not described in the other guides. This enables them
to find quiet anchorages far from "The Madding Crowd".
Street's Guides are available
at bookshops and chandleries, or from
www.iUniverse.com and www.seabooks.com
1992 29' Db Carbbea Sloop (REiDUCED ) USS 26000
1999 30'Henderson 30 (Racing YacM) US$ 50.000
1988 30'Jeannau Sunlit 30 USS 40,000
1989 35'Halberg assy USS 124,000
1966 36'Laranos Tosca US 53,000
1980 36'Biscy36 $ 21.500
1989 36'Reinke Super 10 Slee Stoop USS 45,000
1977 37'GinFi EUS 42.500
1997 3' Halller Rassy L0I0111
1978 40'Alantic40 US$ 70.000
1985 40'OIshoe 40 (RWEDCEOII) US$ 149.000
1992 45'Fortuna USS 150,000
1991 50' Celestil Plolthouse US$ 268.000
1987 51'Bennaualyllel5.5 US$ 160,000
1995 53'Super Maramu IDUC9WlE)) USS 329.000
1982 53' Hatteras y Cruiser USS 254.000
1994 55'Oyster 55 US 776,000
1973 56'ViscMoltoYacht USS 150,000
1993 36.5'DeanCaamaran (OfE CEDIo ) USS 99.500
2002 37' FountaliPajot USS 325.000
2000 42.2'Lu-KalCataaran US$ 299.900
1998 47' Gancl Catamaran US$ 168,000
1980 54' Nrman Crss Trimaran US$ 295.000
1995 55' Custom BultTrmaran US$ 350.000
1991 55' Lagoon Catamara US 559.000
1990 72' Alumarne (Lougebin) Calamaan US$1.190.000
ARE MORE ECONOMICAL!
Written by an author with 50 years of sailing
experience in the Caribbean, the series' four volumes
cover the Eastern Caribbean from Puerto Rico
down through the islands and
the coast of Venezuela to the ABCs.
Continued from previous page
Only slightly in our defence can I add that the sea
was flat, there was o1 ..1 breeze and my part
ner was more than t *1 i I swimming the half a
mile to shore.
Perhaps there's room for a "Confessions" slot in
Boatless in Paradise
The tenth anniversary issue of Blue Water Sailing
(October 2005) looked back 't -hn ;:- that have
taken place in cruising and 1 i I ,-1 for the
future. The article speaks rf "tl 1-;; .1 .-:;i -sizing
of the boats we chose for ....-.... ., i i. -terizes
the common yacht as 351 1 'i' i i les ago,
40 to 45 feet a decade ago, and 45 to 50 feet today.
Their guess for the future reckons "the 60-foot and-up
range" in the next decade for "cruising couples".
Other growths in yachting mentioned in the BWS
article are a trend toward motor-sailers and catama
rans. And, in my observation, more power yachts.
Also, a new class of yacht which has a dedicated 24/7
genset. Meanwhile the tenders, the "dinghies", have
grown apace to their mother ships -size, power, sys
tems, and all.
Many additional devices have become common in
recent years: sailing instruments, GPS, radar, elec
tronic charts, powered winches, watermakers, elec
tric heads, even freshwater heads, and more.
Moreover, there are hair driers, blenders, microwave
ovens, TVs, powerful entertainment systems, wash
ers, dryers, and (still rare in these parts) air condi
tioning. And (I couldn't believe it when I first heard it)
electric stoves. Plus a bag full of rechargeable hand
held devices that would have been a mystery to the
science fiction writers of my youth. All these need
power from ship's batteries, auxiliary generators,
dedicated gensets, wind generators, solar panels,
and/or ... generators. Many modern yachts
have all i I. Sometimes that is not enough.
Power consumption by the developed and develop
ing world continues to escalate, and the third world
awaits its turn. And all of our grandchildren (not just
ours) will want their turn. Technology continuously
improves the efficiency of our power usage, but most
ly by token amounts, i.. ..... ....i' ... I creasess in
demand. Perhaps the ... ,,, .. .. .... i efficiency
was centralizing power generation (a large source
serving a large area), improved by networking *'
sources between large areas. Perhaps the least 11
cient ways to generate power are gasoline and diesel
generators serving individual households, especially
systems based on short lived storage batteries. Solar
panels and wind generators notwithstanding, it is my
belief that per yacht fuel consumption is many times
what it once was. Multiply that by the fact there are
far more yachts. And it appears that the rate of fuel
usage and number of yachts will continue to increase.
So, how much power is enough? How much is too
much? Is there too much? Why?
Some might answer in terms of money, others in
terms of carbon emissions, pollution, and other envi
ronmental concerns. I'll add life quality issues, noise,
stink, and slicks on the water I swim in, in increase
ingly crowded anchorages.
And what of the environmental footprint of all the
flights to and from the boat? Do our yachts pale by
Hurricane sea-. : .; ..;,
All yachts not . i i i .. i .i... to immediately
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Yacht Owner's Guide
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by Guy Matthews
Practical information on the proper way to insure a yacht
and how to navigate through the marine insurance system
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and effectively secure for any and all storm threats
should haul out or leave the hurricane belt soon.
All who remain in the water should act responsibly
to those around them. This includes being equipped,
keeping abreast of the weather, and responding early
and seriously to all threats. Entering a hurricane hole
for a storm threat makes you responsible to those
around you, many of whom may soon be fighting for
their homes and possibly their very lives. Unprepared
vessels are .-1; 1 -. ---i to them than the weather
itself. (One' 1.1 .... also be at risk ashore, by
Don't believe the forecast tracks. Be prepared.
Dear Compass Readers,
We want to hear from YOU!
Please include your name, boat name or address,
and a way we can contact you if clarification is
We do not publish individual consumer complaints or
individual regatta results complaints (kudos are okay!).
We do not publish anonymous letters; however, your
name may be withheld in print at your request.
Letters may be editedfor length, clarity andfair play.
Send your letters to:
or fax (784) 457 3410
Compass Publishing Ltd.
St. Vincent & the Grenadines
It was interesting reading "Uncle" Don Street's article "Of Moorings and Harbours"
in the June issue of Compass. He made some very valid points, as ever. But I do feel
that while mention was made of damage to the seabed by yachts' anchor chains, the
matter is not really given the consideration it deserves.
What a blissful state of ignorance we lived in even as recently as ten years ago,
when the major objection to anchoring on coral was that it is such rotten holding
ground. Now, with new awareness, I would scream blue murder at any boat that
even looked like intending to anchor on coral.
In the early 1990s I remember diving down to check that the anchor was nicely
set in, to find a flat seabed covered in conch, live and edible! I'm not going to let on
where this was, even though that's irrelevant now, because going back to the same
bay recently, there was not a conch in sight, only a flat seabed furrowed by the
familiar tracks of anchor chains. Often there are ten or more yachts in that anchor
age, each one tearing at the seabed with the anchor chain as they swing, clearing
anything that lays in its path. Multiply that by the number of yachts in the popu
lar ... i. i.. .... .- .. andthe devastation is awesome. Letitnotbe"out
of s.,l .. I ...... I ... :ercise one day, snorkel above the many anchor
chains in, for example, the Tobago Cays. Lie there and watch for a while. What
comes to mind? Trawlers or beam trawlers, maybe, which have bee -.. ..
years for the damage they do to the seabed. They may have just a ',. i. -1. i
cation, as they are providing food, but the pleasure-seeking yacht has no justifica
Once again, it is largely a question of numbers. In the halcyon days of the 1960s
and before, there were so few yachts anchoring that what damage they did to the
seabed was minimal. But now, especially when yachts tend to all congregate in cer
tain popular anchorages, it is a very different matter.
Long before I read Uncle Don's article I had come to the conclusion that this dev
station was not sustainable. Being an Old Fart myself, of his generation, I was
brought up thinking that moorings were for wimps and the cocktail set. And as for
having to pay for the privilege of gracing the anchorage -well, I mean to say, what-
It seems as though there are three basic alternatives to minimise this damage:
1) Yachts are banned.
2) It is accepted that where yachts anchor the seabed will be a sterile
3) Moorings are provided.
Yes, there is a capital cost to the last, and to me the only viable, alternative. But
given the life of a screw mooring to be about ten years, it should not require an enor
mous daily fee to reclaim this amount. Rather than have the costly dedicated staff
and boats to collect the fees, these fees could be included in the Port Charges upon
clearing in/out. (After all, we don't have to pay Light Dues on yachts.)
Far from yacht .. ,,,. .., suggestion, may I -.... . I I I ...-. .-
itiesbe petitioned 1 1 '. ... ... so thatinsteado, I .... ... ... I i
ing the anchor chain rumbling over the seabed, we can sleep with a clearer con
science if nothing else? If anyone out there agrees with me on the basics of this, let
me have your ideas through Caribbean Compass. I would try to help to get the ball
rolling if needed.
Now on a different subject altogether, that of waypoints. As I just said, I accept my
Old Fartdom, and therefore don't have much enthusiasm for electronics as such. I
did buy a GPS some time ago when I sailed back to the UK singlehanded; seemed
better than losing sleep jumping up and down trying to get a sight in cloudy condi
tions. I thought recently that I should crack this waypoint thing and put some in my
GPS. I expect that mine is normal in that one can either type in the name of the way
point or use the waypoint number in the GPS I ... 1i y, I did the latter. And as I
am based in Antigua, I used the Imray chart I. ... which I took the waypoint
numbers that Uncle Don has kindly provided. I entered them in my GPS waypoint
list and duly set off for Deshaies and Waypoint #19. Yes, I still use paper charts, and
have been eternally grateful to Uncle Don for having produced them. Some weeks
later when I again set off from Antigua to go to Deshaies I used chart "A" for a
-;; : i ,,,. i, i, ., the waypoint number was 24, so I selected that on the
Si- ,,I i',, i I .. i eing directed to southwestern Martinique, overland. I
haven't checked other charts, but on these two, all the identical waypoint positions
have different "Imray" numbers.
Okay, so I use five-year-old charts, which actually is quite new for me. But
although this discrepancy must be obvious to the wary navigator, it could catch
you out if you were tired after a lon i .-. and not being as careful as you
should. We have all heard of "radar -., I Iollisions; this could lead to "GPS
Having exposed in public my predilection for paper charts and the paraphernalia
that goes with them, I do have to accept that electronic charts have virtues. This was
brought home to me some time ago on my way to Tobago, in the lee of St. Vincent.
Under engine I did the unforgivable, took my old Imray chart, the sort that conve
niently folds up, on deck to show the crew, and it blew overboard. An interesting
"chart overboard" exercise followed, chasing after sections of the chart, which had
separated, with a boathook, in the dark. Got every page back, dried them out and
sellotaped them together and must have got them in the right order, as we did arrive
in Tobago and not Tortuga or somewhere. I just mention this in case anyone is
thinking of coming sailing with me.
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ST. THOMAS YACHT SALES
Compass Point Marina, 6300 Est. Frydenhoj, Suite 28,
St. Thomas, U.S.V.I. 00802
kTel: (340) 779-1660
Mid Rambler 49' 1979 Mariah 44' 1977
Transpacific Ketch CSY New Rigging,
Bluewater Cruiser, Loaded Classic Cruiser
$199,000 Sail $115,000
40' 1987 O'Day Sloop 2 strms, new engine, well maintained $ 74,000
43' 1979 Young Sun Bluewater cruiser, AP, radar, liferaft $115,000
44' '82 Ta Chlao CT Canoe Stern, Perkins 4-108 $105,000
50' '90 Morgan Catalina, 3 strm, new eng, chain plates $145,000
32' 2003 Sea Ray Sundancer Low hrs, great weekender $125,000
36' 1989 GraBad Banks Trwl, Classic, Twin Cummins $170,000
42' '81 Post Sportfish Twin DD's, very good condition $159,900
48' '89 Hi Star Trawler Sundeck, 3 strms, 375HP Cats $100,000
Call, fax or visit our website for a complete list of boats for sale
B.V 1. YACHT SALES
Located at Nanny Cay Marina
SAIL 40' Bayfield, 2 cab/2 hd, Motivated Sellers '84 $ 99K
64' Haj Kutter Schooner, SquareRig 3cab2 hd '30 $475K 40' Catana 400, 2cab/2hd, Great Condition '95 $109K
61' Boothbay Challenger CC, Ketch, 3 cab/2 hd '73 $295K 40' Jeanneau Sun Ody. 3cab/2hd, Well Priced '00 $112K
60' Palomba Pilothouse CC, Ketch, 5 cab/2 hd '70 $119K 40' Jeanneau Sun Ody. 3 cab/2 hd '99 $109K
54' Hylas CC, 3 cab2 hd, Immaculate Condition'99 $739K 39' Tollycraft Fast Passage Cutter, 2 cab/1 hd '83 $125K
54' Gultstar 54, 3 cab/2 hd, Luxurious & Spacious '86 $349K 38' Hunter 380 3cabl hd, Loest Price on Market '99 $79K
53' German Frers, Ketch, 3 cab/2 hd '01 $299K 37' Tartan 3700, 2 cab/I hd '03 $219K
52' Jeanneau Su Ody, 3 cab/3 hd, Loaded! '03 $405K 37' Jeanneau Sun Ody. 2cab/lhd, Motivated '00 $109K
51' Formosa Cust. etch CC, 3 cab/3 hd '80 $199K 37' Beneteau Idylle 3cab/2hd Super Maintained '87 $ 59K
50' Beneteau 50 Cutter 4 cab/I crew/5 hd '02 $329K 36' S2 11.0A, 1 cab/I Qtr berthl hd '85 $ 49K
47'Vagabond, etch C 2 cab/2 hd '87 $249K 36'Tiburon, Cutter/Ketch cab/lhd Solid Cruiser '76 $47K
46' Kely Peterson KP46 CC, Cutter, 2 cab/2 hd '88 $249K 36' Beneteau M362 2 Cab/lhd, Lowest on Market '00 $75K
46'Kelly Peterson,2 cab/2 hd, Immaculate '83 $199K 36' Jeanneau Sun Ody. 2 cab/I hd '99 $ 65K
46'Formosa Peterson Cutter, 2 ab/2 hd '79 $119K 35' O'Day, 2 cab/1 hd, Great Condition '87 $42K
46' Hunter 460, 3 cab/2 hd 2 avail.from '00 $149K MULTIHULLS
45'Jeanneau Sun Ody. 3 cab/3 hd '99 $149K 46' Fountaine Pajot Bahia 4cab/4hd, 2availfrom '01 $370K
45' Bomba Explorer 2 cab/2 hd World Cruiser 78 $ 59K 45' Prout Catamarans 2 cab Never Chartered '95 $260K
45' Hunter Marine Passage CC, 2 cab/2 hd '98 $149K 42'Lagoon,4 cab/2 hd, Extensive Upgrades '92 $249K
44' Beneteau 44CC, 2 cab/2 hd, n Great Shape '94 $189K 42'SolarisCat, 4 cab/4 hd, in Rio Dulce '86 $109K
44' CSY 44 2 cab2 hd, Reduced Motivated '77 $ 85K 40'Fountaine Pajot Lavezi, Owner's Version '03 $295K
44' CSY Walkover, 2 cab/2 hd, Great Condition 79 $165K 27' Heavenly Twins, 2 cab/2 hd '92 $59K
43' Hans Christ. Christina, Cutter CC, 3 cab/I hd '88 $185K POWER
43' Jeanneau Sun Od. 3-4 cabl2 hd, 2 avail. from '01 $175K 56' Horizon Motor yacht, Immaculate Condition!'01 $690K
43' Mason, 2 cab/lhd, World Cruiser '81 $109K 50' Hatteras Sportfisherman, 3 cab/2 head '81 $295K
42' Dutour Gibsea, 2 cab/2 hd, Well Maintained '01 $129K 48' Horizon 48 Motor Yacht, 3 cab/3 head '00 $310K
42' J Boat J/130, 2 cab/1hd, Good Upgrades '93 $199K 42' Hi-Star Trawler, 2cabl2 hd '88 $199K
42' Hunter, 2 ca/b2 hd New Listing '03 $199K 42' Nova Marine Trawler, Sundeck trawler '98 $249K
41' Morgan 416, Ketch 2 cabl2 hd '83 $78K 42' Hershine 42, Motor yacht 4 cab/4 head '89 $ 99K
40' Island Packet, 2 cab/2 hd, Well Maintained '98 $219K 36' Heritage East 36 2 cabl2 hd, 2 avail from '01 $187K
40' Beneteau CC, 2 cab/2 hd '00 $158K 35' Maxum SCR 3500, 2 cab/1 head '01 $129K
40' Beneteau M405, 3 cab/2 hd, Loaded 95 $119K 27' Eastern 27 Down East, 1 cab '06 $ 99K
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Tel: 284-494-3260 Fax: 284-494-3535 email: firstname.lastname@example.org
website: www.bviyachtsales.com / Call for a complete list of over 70 boats
S/Y HURRICANE 72' KETCH
Mahogany on Oak & Teak,
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ib 2 mains spinnaker, TV CD,
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Good condition US$30000
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1986 BENEIEAU 51 Nice condi-
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31 FIBERGLASS SLOOP US$9000,
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1986 GRAND SOLEIL 39 Needs
new skeg & rudder. Full elec-
tronics, new teak deck 05.
Equipped for ocean crossing,
includes dinghyOB. Lyng St.
Maarten. US$65000 Contact
CMS Tel (284) 494-2091
designed classic. As of 05 new
sails, new Imron paint, new
thruhulls, bottom job, new
head, Harken roller furling,
new bilge pumps & electron-
ics, shoal draft, in Caribbean
and ready to cruise $35K E-
GALLANT 53 1968 built to Uoyds
specs. Refi 202004. Solar pan-
autohelm, radar, watermncker,
frig/freezer. Cruise ready.
US170K, Located St Thomas, VI
Tel (340) 998-1574 E-mail
FISHER 37 newly install
100hp diesel, new sails, sea
worthy, fully equipped, GPS
auto oilot, Dower winch
Durban,S.A. Yanmarr 2G20 new dinghy/OB and many
Zetus manual windlass, many owner improvements, in
extras for cruising. Berthed at 50 FERRO CEMENT KETCH 1974 excellent condition, lying in
Grenada Yacht Cub Contact built in Durban So. Afica. Vetus storage Rodney Bay St
Sewyn Tel (473)4354174 42hpdiesel 40hrs2 042wind- Lucia. US$85000 Kristne
generators Smrad autopilot l04 Choy Tel (246) 429-8131/239-5955
Stchen coder/freezer, 3 dbl E-mail -
bed, bathroom, elec windlass, Jon ..
cruise6knts, max 9kts 2furiing 9194-2d .i .:, 1.
jibs, AwlGp personal pdnt hur- firstname.lastname@example.org
ricane proof ready go. Euros
25130 Tel (473)538u08 CARIER33 1972 Perkins 30hp 12
E-mcl email@example.com 3" beam, Aries self steering, very
well equipped for blue water
CANOUAN STAR Catamaran 30' MIURA SLOOP 1982 built sailing ready to go, ng
12m x 6.mn x ODCkg, 2 x 27cv So. Africa, fully equipped for Antigua. US$3000 E-mal
engines. Marc Espanon design, cruising. Currently in Antigua, dcMdedgar77hotmail.com
built by La Griffe Marine. 8 aluminium-bottomed
Revlduionary boatin good cn- dinghy/suncover, hull treat- -
dtion and resoncby priced at ed with 5 coat Westcoat" M
US$flK/neg. For more info cdl epoxy system 2 years ago, MASTS TURBULENCE GRENADA
OliverorDdliTel(784)458-8888 last anti-fouled June 06, has 3 masts suitable for
inventory & photos on mono/mulfihulls. 16-17 & 22
PEARSON 30 BUILT 1973, new request. US$30,000 E-mail - -
Yanmar 2GM20, new Awlgip, 2 firstname.lastname@example.org .- ..ii.i: -i i..:-.i- ::.
FRIENDSHIP BAY, BEQUIA
Lovely 1250 sq ft. cottage, 100
yards from beach. 2 master
bedrooms, 1 guest bedroom,
full kitchen, laundry, level with
road no stairs! 12,558 sq ft of
land, fenced with mature
fruit trees. US$320,000, Term
rental available. E-mail
CARRIACOU, ONE ACRE LOTS
and multi acre tracts. Great
views overlooking Southern
Grenadines and Tyrrel Bay
GRENADA LaPASTORA, ST.
DAVID Prime location for Eco-
tourism project. With 2 bed-
room, 2 bath Japanese sMe
house on 4 acres of cultivated
land. House designed for
easy expansion. Tel (473)
PUERTO LA CRUZ, VENZ. INSUR-
ANCE SURVEYS, electrical prob-
lems and yacl-t -1i :- TA-
Cris Robinson .-
NIMROD'S RUM SHOP, GRENADA
Eggs, bread, cheese, ice on
sale. Taxi service available,
propane tank fill-up,
personal laundry service.
happy Hour every day from 5-
6pm Moonlight party every
full moon. VH 16
CATAMARANS Every day of
the year. Sail out of Union
Island to Tobago Cays-
Mayero-Palm Island. Drinks
Lunch, Snorkel included. Tel:
(784) 458-8513 E-mail
WATERMAKERS Complete sys-
tems, membranes, spares and
service available at Curacao
and Puerto La Cruz, Venezuela.
Check our prices at
In PLC Tel (58)416-3824187
"h 1. ,: 1 __ .,- : : : ,- i
WANTED I am 58, male,
retired, fit and looking for a
cruising opportunity for 1 to
3 months in the Nov/Jan
timeframe. Have experi-
ence, am dependable and
easy to get on with. Willing
to share sailing, cooking,
chores and expenses.
Contact Bob E-mail
TORTOLA WAREHOUSE MAN-
AGER Mus' --
skills, be -
have previous experience in
parts or warehouse manage-
ment or inventory manage-
ment and :
TURBULENCE GRENADA LTD
CIAN & SAILMAKER to be
trained for our new loft open-
ing at Genad Marine
Please send CV; E-mail
MARINE TECHNICIAN WANTED
EC$1/US 400 per word -
include name, address
and numbers in count. Line
panying classified are
EC$20/US$8. Check or
International money order
in EC$ or US$ payable to
Compass Publishing must
Deadline is the 15th of each
month, preceding the
month of issue. Copy
received after deadline will
be held for next issue. Send
copy, photo and payment
to: Compass Publishing, PO
Box 175, Bequia, St. Vincent
and the Grenadines.
Fax: (784) 457-3410 or
Dispose of your
ADVRTIER IN E
A&C Yacht Brokers
Admiral Yacht Insurance
Associated Marine Design
B & C Fuel Dock
Bahia Redonda Marina
Barefoot Yacht Charters
Bequla Beachfront Villas
Bogles Round House
BVI Yacht Sales
Caribbean Propellers Ltd
Caribbean Star Airlines
Corea's Food Store Musbque
Dockwise Yacht Transport Sari
Dominica Marine Center
Down Island Real Estate
Doyle Offshore Sails
Doyle Offshore Sails
Echo Marine Jotun Special
Errol Flynn Marina
Flamboyant Beachside Terrace
Flamboyant Owl Bar
Flying Fish Ventures
Horizon Yacht Management
St Maarten 47
Island Water World
Lagoon Marina Hotel
Latitudes & Attitudes
Maritime Yacht Sales
Mclntyre Bros Ltd
Mid Atanbc Yacht Services
Northern Lights Generators
Peake Yacht Brokerage
Peters & May Yacht Shipping
Pebt St Vincent
Ponton du Bakoua
Port Hole Restaurant
Quantum Pure Alre
Sint Maarten 56
St Lucia 9
St Crolx 20
St Vincent 20
St Vincent 39
St Thomas 49
Santa Barbara Resorts
Shelter Bay Marina
Simpson Bay Marina
Soper's Hole Marina
Spice Island Marine
St Thomas Yacht Sales
Thomas Peake &Sons
Tikal Arts & Crafts
Trade Winds Cruising
True Blue Bay
Tyrrel Bay Yacht Haulout
Virgin Gorda Yacht Harbour
and Common Decency
by Phil Chapman
Regarding sailing through an anchorage or in restricted waters, two recent inci
dents come to mind -one in Rodney Bay, St. Lucia, and one in Tyrrel Bay,
Carriacou. Many of us know we can competently sail onto and off an anchor, or at
least hope we can in an emergency, but in these two cases the skippers had no emer
agency. Surely common sense dictates that sailing a large, heavy boat in a restricted
area is dangerous.
In Rodney Bay, many a time a fishing boat pops out of its dock in Gros Islet, or
someone dives in the water and swims across the "cut", or a dinghy slides out from
nowhere. But, nevertheless, a 40-foot Beneteau sails downwind out of the cut (a nar
row channel) with his fully battened mainsail up in 15 to 20 knots of wind. How
could the skipper stop the boat if necessary? Turn into wind, drop the sail, pull in
the mainsheet? He'd have more chance with a stern anchor and a sky hook! Why not
sail out under headsail alone and wait those few hundred yards before putting up
In Tyrrel Bay, while enjoying a cold one on the Angels Rest floating bar, we
watched as a 32-foot sailboat sailed beautifully through and around all the anchored
boats and the floating bar, demonstrating the skipper's sailing abilities, which he did
remarkably well with so many boats and anchor chains to avoid,. i "'. .. i i "'.
past the onlookers, his skills were without question. But momei i i "
girl had slid off the bar to swim back ashore; if the I ....... i 11 .. she could
have been run down or other boats hit as a result ol II. -i 'i i i,,,. her.
It's so unnecessary to take these risks. Which brings me to another minefield
anchoring! I suppose this subject is the most talked about in all cruiser hangouts,
and I suppose we all believe a little .,, ... i i .. ve have the answers. It's com-
mon knowledge for cruising folk, ... I -I. ..I I I i all, that the text-book "three
.-As lQ II dc' ull Illl 'lc'fr'' it'll clillqbIiii')Ol
times" scope is a bare minimum -and only in certain conditions. I, like many,
would put out a minimum of 30 metres of chain, no matter how shallow the water
is. I want to protect my home.
A case in point: recently ir -t -'. -. Grenada, I anchored Chaserin five
to six metres of water, with .... I i i .... .. the bottom. We had been there for
a week or more, in some strong winds. A Lagoon 44 catamaran anchored alongside
with little chain out and too close. The skipper noted my polite concern and advice,
ignored it, and said, "Don't you worry; I've done this many times before." The fol
lowing day when the wind turned a little and picked up a lot, the cat swung closer
and closer. I didn't want to humiliate the skipper in front of his friends/crew, but I
mentioned that he was getting a bit close. His boat then started to drag and we start
ed ;,.:;,, i1 wind. He started lifting his anchor, then cursing me for getting to
clo 11 ..... i. chain have you got out? You are swinging near me!" he shouted.
I said 30 metres. The abuse from him was uncalled for, but in essence he said,
"Thirty metres in five metres of water? You must be crazy, man!" Of course, I had to
reply with words to the effect of, "Listen, it is not me who is dragging!"
We all come across these problems, and it is so annoying and worrying. In the
same anchorage, a sailboat on his fourth attempt to anchor, having already dragged
onto two other boats, fortunately damaging only his own, dragged yet again -near
to me. He was watching, and lifted his anchor, but in the process hooked mine.
Chaser then started to drag while he anchored off in another part of the lagoon.
Fortunately we were on board and my wife noticed our movement. If we were not on
board, we would have been on the reefl
My wife Yvonne is a good lookout, and again in the same anchorage she noticed a
sailboat taking off sideways at a rate of knots. It was obviously dragging and no one
else noticed. I jumped in my dinghy, raced over and banged on the side of the hull.
No answer. This boat was moving quickly in strong winds; there was no holding at
all. I tied alongside and climbed aboard. The companionway was open, keys in the
ignition, but nobody on board. I ran forward and paid out 20 metres of chain and
the hook bit. As in so many cases, the skipper had apparently just dropped the hook
and gone ashore. This was a potential disaster for either him or the boat behind.
When I spoke to a crewmember on his return, he said, "Thank you, but I am not the
captain. He will be back later." Then he jumped back in the dinghy and went ashore
again. They departed later that day without even saying au revoirl
Finally, I'd like to comment on what I would call good manners or lack thereof, i.e.
What one does on his or her own boat is, of course up, to them. As long as it does
n't interfere with neighbours, what the hell. Its great to skinny dip, run naked
across a deserted sandy beach, sunbathe or sail getting the less exposed white bits
coloured up. But when it comes I i"i .' i -li .... 1i. lot so attractive parts,
and the motions thereof, I must I I ,, I ,I i ,.11, I-. I -1 I as I do my lunch,
.ft-r h --.;;n - them. When someone on a boat 20 metres away decides to urinate
S1. -. I i boat that has the most onlookers, or worse, slide his or her fat
backside to the second rung of the boarding ladder -ugh! "Don't look, then!" my
wife says. "I can't help it; I'm not gonna lay on the cockpit sole to eat!" I reply. "Get
the catapult out!"
Why do some people's inhibitions disappear in a crowded anchorage? On terra
firma, if the same people were in a public park in any town, they wouldn't walk up
to a family having a picnic on the grass, drop their trousers or lift their skirts and
have a jimmy or a pony. No, of course not. If so, they would be arrested, locked up
and the key thrown away. So be a little discreet, that's all. If you haven't a working
head, use your head, or head ashore, or better still head for home -we don't want
a fish's eye view of your toilet habits.
IT'S MUCH MORE
THAN A MARINA: IT'S HOME!
Over and over again our guests refer to our marina as their "Home"!
Join us this summer and continue to enjoy the hospitlity.
S24 hour security
120 concrete slip berths
SElectricity: 220V/ 50amp; 110V/300amps
(single phase and three phase)
Fuel dock and bunkering
SFree satellite TV at each slip
SWireless internet, banks and laundry within the complex
Pick-up and drop-off from major supermarkets
We monitor VHF channels 16 & 79A (alpha American system)
P.O. Box 4540, Airport Road, Sint Maarten, N.A., Caribbean
Tel: 599-5442309 Fax: 599-5443378
Visit our website: www.sbmarina.biz E-mail: email@example.com
VIRGIN GORDA YACHT HARBOUR
V"gnr Godr- r
Marinn. Full Service Marina Facility
Our facility located in the heart of beautiful Virgin Gorda comprises
a 111-slip marina and a boatyard with 12 acres of dry storage space
offering insurance approved hurricane pits to secure your vessel
during hurricane season.
Onsite amenities and services include a bank/ATM, a supermarket,
chandlery, restaurant, bakery, clothing store, dive shop, phone and
fax facilities, free wireless intemet access, fuel, water and ice,
laundry facilities, and an office of the BVI Tourist Board all in
a pristine and relaxing environment BVI Customs and immigration
located within convenient walking distance.
Tel: 284 495-5500 Fax: 284 495-5706
284 495-5318 284 495-5685
VHF Ch: 16
2 Territory Day. Public holiday in BVI
2 Curacao Flag Day. Public holiday in Curacao
3 Emancipation Day. Public holiday in USVI
3 CARICOM Day. Public holiday in CARICOM countries
4 US Independence Day. Public holiday in Puerto Rico
and USVI. Carnival in St. John, USVI
5 Independence Day. Public Holiday in Venezuela
5- 18 Tortola BVI Carnival
6 8 Charlotteville Fishermen's Festival, Tobago. (868) 660-5521
6 15 Dominica Dive Fest. Marie@adams-pr.com
7 8 Annual Aruba Reef Care Project. dutch.aruba.com
8 12th Annual Bequia Fishermen's Day. www.bequiatourism.com
8- 11 Chief Minister's Cup Youth Regatta, Tortola. RBVIYC
9 10 Vincy Mas. Public holiday in St. Vincent & the Grenadines
12- 14 St. Barths Open Fishing Tournament. www.st-barths.com
13 1 Aug Tobago Heritage Festival. (868) 639-4441
14 Bastille Day. Public holiday in French West Indies. Yole races in Martinique
14 Underwater Cleanup, Bonaire. www.dive-friends-bonaire.com
15 Bastille Day Kingfish Tournament, St. Thomas.
Northside Sportfishing Club, (340) 774-5206
16- 18 St. Lucia Carnival. Public holiday in St. Lucia
17 Luis Muhoz Rivera's Birthday. Public holiday in Puerto Rico
18 6 Aug Cropover Festival (Carnival) in Barbados
19 29 Statia Carnival. www.statiatourism.com
20 22 USVI Lifestyle Festival, St. Thomas. www.usvimf.com
21 Schoelcher Day. Public holiday in Martinique
21 7 Aug Antigua Carnival 50th Anniversary. www.antiguacarnival.com
23 29 Saba Carnival. firstname.lastname@example.org
23 11 Aug BVI Emancipation Festival
24 Bolivar's Birthday. Public holiday in Venezuela
25 Constitution Day. Public holiday in Puerto Rico
25 27 Rebellion Days. Public holiday in Cuba
26 39 Fete des quarter du Nord-Flamands Boat Races, St. Barts
27 7 Aug Culturama, Nevis
29- 6 Aug 42nd Carriacou Regatta Festival. www.carriacouregatta.com
30 FULL MOON
31 5 Aug 23rd Tour des Yoles Rondes, Martinique. Departs Trois-llets
and sails around island in seven legs. Society des Yoles Rondes
(Martinique), tel (596 596) 61 48 50, Fax: 05 96 72,
TBA Antigua Barbuda Race. Jolly Harbour Yacht Club, Antigua
TBA Grenada Summer Regatta
1 Emancipation Day. Public holiday in Barbados,
St. Vincent & the Grenadines, and Trinidad & Tobago
1 Carriacou Children's Education Fund Potluck Barbecue,
Carriacou Yacht Club. email@example.com
3 Carriacou Children's Education Fund Auction. firstname.lastname@example.org
4 5 CSA Caribbean Dinghy Championship, St Croix, www.stcroixyc.com
5 Constitution Day. Public holiday in Anguilla
6 Kadooment Day. Public holiday in Barbados
6 Emancipation Day, Public Holiday in St Kitts & Nevis
11 12 Fete du Vent Regatta, Lorient, St. Barts.
13- 14 Grenada Carnival. Public holiday in Grenada
15 Feast of the Assumption. Public holiday in French West Indies
16 Restoration day. Public holiday in Dominican Republic
16 22 54th San Juan International Billfish Tournament, Puerto Rico.
24 Festival of St. Barthelemy, Gustavia, St. Barts. Boat races
25 St. Louis Festival, Corossol, St. Barts. Fishing contests, boat races
25 Carib Great Race (powerboats) Trinidad to Tobago
28 FULL MOON
31 Independence Day. Public holiday in Trinidad.
Dragonboat Regatta at Kayak Centre, Chaguaramas
All information was correct to the best of our knowledge
at the time this issue of Compass went to press but plans change,
so please contact event organizers directly for confirmation,
If you would like a nautical or tourism event listed FREE in our calendar,
please send the name and date(s) of the event
and the name and contact information of the organizing body to
by Bev Bate
Having worked in school district administration for 36 years, retirement was on
the horizon, which included a new adventure involving living and r--- lin. n a sail
boat with my husband, Bill. It was difficult to imagine what that 1.1 ..i i be like.
It was our desire to have purpose as well as adventure.
Several years previously we heard about a school in Canada that had partnered
with an orphanage in Guatemala. That relationship has continued for 25 years.
Throughout those years the Canadian school held fund-raisers for the orphanage
and even developed a fish farm which provided on-going revenue for the orphanage.
1, ,.1,i this idea was exceptional and wondered what a different world this
.I I I ,I very school in Canada (or the developed world for that matter) adopted
a school in a developing country.
The idea blossomed into us establishing a non-profit foundation under the Society
Act of British Columbia, Canada, called Schools Beyond Borders. The official pur
pose of the foundation is to link schools in developing countries with schools in
developed countries. Once such a link is established, the foundation's main role is
to ensure that communication is working and that 100 percent of any funds raised
go to the "sister school". We also applied through Revenue Canada for charitable
donation status so any Canadian donating to this foundation can receive a tax
deductible receipt. We built a website and approached a few people we thought
would be interested in this. Before leaving on our sailing adventure one year ago,
Schools Beyond Borders had adopted schools in Guatemala, Nicaragua, Romania,
Zambia and Kenya.
During our travels we visited Cuba and sadly found that it would be too difficult
to have North American schools communicate with a Cuban school due to the polit
ical environment. We moved on to the beautiful island of Jamaica where we locat
ed two rural community schools that met the criteria and concept of our
The first school we adopted was Boston Primary and Infant School with
dents, ages three to 12 years, and 11 teachers, i .1... in eight classrooms. A
retired teacher serves as a volunteer librarian, I -I I ii. classrooms are small
and crowded and three classrooms have partial room dividers to accommodate two
Continued on next page
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The second Jamaican school added to our program, Drapers All Age School, has
258 students and 17 teachers, including the principal, with Grades 1 to 9.
These schools have numerous needs in all areas. However, we noted that the
teachers, regardless of their needs, have expressed most interest into moving their
students into the electronic age with computers. The schools currently do not have
any computers except for one computer shared by the teaching staff. We are excit
ed to see the program working as two teachers in Canadian cities have expressed
interest in joining with these schools in September.
We sailed from Port Antonio, Jamaica, and arrived in Ile-a-Vache, a small Haitian
island on the southwest corner of Hispaniola. We encountered a beautiful island
with friendly, respectful people and a true delight. Most cruising guides (and cruis
ers) advise you to steer clear of Haiti because it is unsafe due to the extremely high
murder rate against whites. However, Ile-a-Vache is an exception. We were wel
comed by warm, friendly people and there was a true sense of joy and peace.
Children in home-made dugout canoes came in droves to our boat selling fish,
:getables or fruit, or looking for work doing laundry or 1 t -1 -...; Bill had
patience with these children arriving at the boat. I,, i i i a nap
when we first arrived (after traveling for 42 hours) and we kept hearing "knock,
knock, knock" on our hull. Bill jumped up and visited with the children and kept
digging around for '... 1.... 1ie he i1. ...,1.i hey might like including coloring
books, crayons, ball- I.-i... i.. and I unloaded all our goodies there as
we knew we'd be hard pressed to find a people of greater need. One little boy was so
thrilled with the little ball we gave him, he left kissing it. One fisherman left the bat
tery for his fishing boat on board our boat so we could give him a boost from our
-- .t-r Two young men received diving masks so they could harvest from the sea.
i i... Haiti we visited Etoile Du Matin School and interviewed the principal and
director. This school was founded by doctors in Spain in 1995 and they send funds
for the teachers' salaries the equivalent of approximately US$150 per year. The
school admits its greatest challenge:- .11, ,,,. .. i .... qualified teachers. Two
hundred and sixty students attend i. i ... -1,,11- .- .11 ges are accommodated
in this school. The school has minimal resources. There is a dire shortage of text
books, library books, playground equipment, art supplies, musical instruments and
even electricity. The school is clean, organized and orderly and the students well
groomed with neat, clean uniforms. We were able to bring them 200 students' note
books which had been donated by a fellow cruiser while we were in Jamaica. He had
worked in Haiti and was anxious for his gift of notebooks to go to Haiti if at all pos
sible. The principal was thrilled with the unexpected gift. This school was added to
our growing inventory of schools for Schools Beyond Borders. The school in Haiti
already has a school in Canada interested in adopting them.
We have truly experienced the joy of sailing with a purpose. We are anxious to
adopt as many schools as possible but need more schools in Canada (or elsewhere
in the developed world) to partner with them. Ideally we would like to have an inven
tory of privileged schools waiting for a "sister school" in a third world country.
Once schools are connected, the schools communicate classroom-to-classroom or
student to student through letters or e-mail, during the school year. Amazingly
most third world schools have access to the internet which makes communication
much more effective as regular post can take months. Once a year, or more often as
determined by the school in the developed country, they would do a fund-raiser and
send an educational gift to their "sister school" for the benefit of all students.
Students in countries of privilege benefit by gaining a new understanding of the
developing world and learning to model good global citizenship.
Students in developing countries receive much needed financial support, and,
even more importantly, a sense of hope knowing others truly care about them.
The sailors, for their part, could be the catalyst, stimulating the joining of a needy
school with a developed world school.
Schools Beyond Borders is run completely by volunteers and we can always use
more, particularly in introducing the program to schools in developed countries and
encouraging them to get involved.
If you are interested in this program visit www.schoolsbeyondborders.com or e-mail
us at email@example.com.
While in Haiti we were able to bring Etoile Du Matin School 200 students' notebooks
which had been donated by afellow cruiser in Jamaica
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St. Thomas, US.V.I. St. Maarten, NA. 51. Maarton, N.A. St. Lucia, W.I. Grenada, W.I. Grenada, W.I.
Yacht Haven Grand@ Cole say Bobby's Marina Rodney Bay Marina 5. Greorge' Grenodo Marine
Tel 340 714.0404 Toa 599 544 5310 Tel 599 543 71 19 Tel 758 452 1222 Tel 473 435 2150 Tel 473 443 1028
For 340.714.0405 Fax 599 544 3299 Fan 599 542 2675 Foax 758 452 4333 Fai 413 435 2152 Fox 473 443 1038
Prices may vary In St. Thoma, 1St. Lucia and Grenada as a result oft cusloms charges and environmental levies.
TRI .- r'M 0 7