Title: Caribbean Compass
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Permanent Link: http://ufdc.ufl.edu/UF00095627/00004
 Material Information
Title: Caribbean Compass the Caribbean's monthly look at sea & shore
Physical Description: v. : ill. ; 35 cm.
Language: English
Publisher: Compass Pub.
Place of Publication: Bequia St. Vincent and the Grenadines
Bequia St. Vincent and the Grenadines
Publication Date: June 2007
Copyright Date: 2009
Frequency: monthly
regular
 Subjects
Subject: Boats and boating -- Periodicals -- Caribbean Area   ( lcsh )
Yachting -- Periodicals -- Caribbean Area   ( lcsh )
Genre: periodical   ( marcgt )
Spatial Coverage: Saint Vincent and the Grenadines
 Record Information
Bibliographic ID: UF00095627
Volume ID: VID00004
Source Institution: University of Florida
Holding Location: University of Florida
Rights Management: All rights reserved by the source institution and holding location.
Resource Identifier: oclc - 54085008
issn - 1605-1998

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Yacht Acrobats Perform
Stephane Legendre reports: On April 25th and 26th, parts of the docks at Marina
Bas du Fort in Guadeloupe were emptied of boats to make way for a most unusual
performance. "Navigartistes" Franck and Delphine, a French cruising couple, used
the mast, boom and spinnaker
pole of their 40 foot yacht for a
circus-worthy acrobatic show.
Their two-hour act on the deck
and in the rigging of La
Loupiote, easily viewed by
spectators on the surrounding
restaurant terraces, was one of
the best I have ever seen.
La Loupiote is sailing to
Canada for the summer,
where 20 performances are
already planned along the St.
Lawrence River. We hope
they ll come back to the
Caribbean for the winter!
For more information visit
www voilierspectacle.com.
Missing Sailors
The US Coast Guard has sus-
four sailors who departed St.
bound for Annapolis, Maryland,
and encountered heavy
weather off the North Carolina
coast. However, all mariners
are still encouraged to contin-
ue to be on the lookout for the
54-foot Little Harbor Flying
Colours and its crew.
The search for Flying Colours
crewed by Patrick "Trey" Topping, age 39, Jason Franks, 34 Rhiannon Borisoff, 22,
and Christine Grinavic, 25, began on May 7th when watchstanders at the Rescue
Coordination Center (RCC) in Portsmouth, Virginia, received a signal from an EPIRB
at 0330 hours. The RCC lost contact with the EPIRB at 0700. The signal location report-
edly put Flying Colours at 35 52N, 74 7'W, about 160 miles southeast of Cape
Lookout where she apparently encountered seas ovr 30 feet and 45- to 60-knot
winds produced by Tropical Storm Andrea.
Coast Guard search crews from Air Stations in North Carolina, Florida,
Massachusetts and Georgia, and the Coast Guard cutters Tampa and Staten
Island, were joined by two US Navy P3 search crews from Naval Air Station
Jacksonville, Florida, and C-130 crews from Moody and Patrick Air Force Bases and
the Rhode Island, New York, Georgia and North Carolina Air National Guard. They
searched an area of more than 282,000 square nautical miles.
"Suspending a search is always a difficult step for the Coast Guard because we
understand the impact that it has on the families involved," said Rear Admiral Larry
Hereth, Commander, Fifth Coast Guard District. "In the last six days, Coast Guard
cutters and aircraft, along with numerous Department of Defense aircraft, searched
all of the likely and even unlikely areas where the crew could be. Sadly, the thresh-
old of survival seems negligible."
A search-and-rescue case is not closed until the search object has been located.
According to friends, the crew of Flying Colours were experienced. Topping, Flying
Colours' skipper, and Franks, who had skippered the classic Fife ketch Adventuress
out of Newport, Rhode Island, are both licensed captains. Grinavic had been work-
ing as a deckhand on the 160-foot charter schooner Arabella.
Continued on next page



i i ii

I ON-LINE SUBSCRIPTIONS
NOW AVAILABLE!
Join our growing list of
I on-line subscribers!
12 issues US$29.95, 24 issues US$53.95
Same price, same content faster delivery!

For full details visit:
L www.caribbeancompass.comr



Cover Photo Wilfred Dederer: ANGOSTURA SAILING WEEK 2007
Wayward on its way to overall first in Cruiser/Racer Class


C


MPASS


The Caribbean's Monthly Look at Sea & Shore
www.caribbeancompass.com
JUNE 200 -NIUME


Weather Ear


Overboard!


1'-- ;2 :.. -
Ducking Northers
Panama to Honduras sail...... 14

Yacht Insurance


Fantasy facility in the DR......29 Gourmands hit Gouyave........44
DIPARTM1ET


Regatta News....................9.
Destinations ........................18
Eco-News............................ 19
Business Briefs......................20
Street Talk............................24
All Ashore.............................28
This Cruising Life.................32
Meridian Passage .................34
Sailors' Horoscope ...............36
Island Poets .........................36


I"' ..
Tel: (784) 457-3409, Fax: (784) 457-3410,
compass@caribsurf.com
www.carlbbeancompass.com
Editor........................................... Sally Erdle
sally@carlbbeancompass.com
Assistant Editor...................Elaine Ollivierre
jsprat@carlbsurf.com
Advertising & Distribution........Tom Hopman
tom@caribbeancompass.com
Art, Design Production......Wilfred Dederer
wlde@carlbbeancompass.com
Accounting ................. .............Debra Davis
debra@caribbeancompass.com
Compass Agents by Island:


i, ... .: .."
UI,~n
a"bI ~r.


Cruising Crossword ...............37
Cruising Kids' Corner ............38
Dolly's Deep Secrets.............38
Book Review..........................40
Different Boats ....................42
Cooking with Cruisers...........45
Readers' Forum ..................48
Classified Ads.....................52
Advertisers' Index ................52
Calendar................................54


ii,,,.Ai iii. I
III





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"-III .,, . 11

xanadu-nmine:cani- v net I evs


ISSN 1605 -1998


I C R B E N




































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i- :,-, i ',i -, : :I -. rd rescued nine people from three other boats caught in
the same storm, and solo sailor John Fildes, age 32, was rescued from the Open 40
racer Dangerous When Wet by the cruise ship Crown Princess on May 14th, after
departing St. Maarten on May 9th bound for Newport.
Please report any sightings of Flying Colours or its crew to Coast Guard Petty Officer
Wadlow, tel (757) 636-2431.
Gli-Gli's Leeward Islands Adventure
During the month of May, the traditional Carib dugout canoe Gli-Gli sailed from
Antigua to Tortola, visiting Nevis, St. Kitts, St. Barts, St. Maarten, Anguilla and Virgin
Gorda along the way.





X.. . ....










Expedition organizers say that the voyage was undertaken to celebrate the tenth
anniversary of Gli Gli's launching and to continue the mission of her 1997 expedition
from Dominica to Guyana, by symbolically reuniting the Carib descendants of the
Leeward Islands. The expedition drew attention to the role the Carib people have
played in the region's history and culture and promoted recognition of the
Caribbean's largest surviving indigenous tribe. Throughout the expedition, the crew
of 11 Kalinago-Caribs from Dominica presented slide and video shows and gave
traditional musical performances for schools and heritage groups.
Paulinus Frederick of Gli-Glitold listeners in Nevis, "Our ancestors were the first
inhabitants of this region.... We have been protecting our islands and we have also
been protecting our culture... We are here to raise the consciousness of the
Leeward Islands and to make persons aware of the role that we have played in the
development of this entire region."
For more information visit www gliglicaribcanoe.com.
CMA's First AGM
The Caribbean Marine Association (CMA) is a regional association geared towards
the development of the yachting industry within the Caribbean Basin. Its aims are:
* To compile and share experience, ideas and information, and to improve interna-
tional communications between all members and other related organizations.
* To encourage all within the yachting industry to adopt best practices and stan-
dards that are designed to preserve, protect and enhance the quality of the
Caribbean waters, the Caribbean environment and the nautical tourism experience.
* To offer non-political advice and assist all Caribbean governments, regional
tourism organizations and other NGOs on policies and challenges which influence
the yachting industry.
The first Annual General Meeting of the CMA was held on May 8th in Antigua at the
Antigua Yacht Club. Present were Tommy Johnson, Donald Stollmeyer and Sharon
Mclntosh of the Yacht Services Association of Trinidad & Tobago; Jeff Boyd of the St.
Maarten Marine Trades Association; John Shirley and Sam Welsh of the Marine
Association of the British Virgin islands; John West of the St. Vincent & the
Grenadines Recreational Marine Association; Justin Evans of the Marine and
Yachting Association of Grenada; Keats Compton of the Marine Industries
Association of St. Lucia; Nigel Benjamin of the Antigua & Barbuda Ministry of
Tourism; and John Duffy, George Clarke, Jonathon Cornelius and Penny Tyas of the
Antigua & Barbuda Marine Trades Association.
Among topics discussed at the meeting were the need for collection of yachting sta-
tistics, a regional safety and security project, harmonized Customs and Immigration
procedures throughout the region, further banning of the use of TBT anti-fouling paint,
and a follow-up to the regional yachting study done by the United Nations Economic
Commission for Latin America and the Caribbean (ECLAC) in 2003.
For more information on the CMA visit www caribbeanmarineassociation.com.
Antigua to Malta Solo Sail
On May 14th, 31-year-old solo sailor Eleandro Buhagiar set sail from Antigua aboard
his 37-foot sloop in an attempt to become the first Maltese to sail from the
Caribbean to Malta. According to a report by Joanna Ripard in The Times of Malta,
he plans to stop in the Azores and Portugal before entering the Straits of Gibraltar
into the Mediterranean.
Writes Ripard: "An electrical technician by trade but adventurous by nature, he left
his old life in Malta behind in late 2001 and headed off to the Caribbean to work on
boats. He is a self-taught sailor and proceeded to obtain a skipper's license.
Continued on next page




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"Hi -i 1 1: :n-:i :, :, 3 1975 Swedish-built ocean
cruiser, anchored in Antigua in November 2004. He
bought her the following April.... Ever since, Mr.
Buhagiar has divided his time between working on
crewed yachts around the Caribbean, the East Coast
and the Mediterranean, and working on refitting
Mahina while sailing her around the Caribbean. His
father travelled to Trinidad & Tobago to help his son
with the ambitious refit in September 2005."
As crew aboard the Swan 56 Lolita, Eleandro raced in
Antigua Sailing Week 2004, and the St. Maarten
Heineken and BVI Spring regattas in 2005.
Donna Does It!
On May 16th, solo sailor Donna Lange sailed into
Bristol, Rhode Island, to complete a 31,400-nautical-
mile circumnavigation. Donna, well-known in the Virgin
Islands as a singer-songwriter as well as a liveaboard
sailor, did the deed aboard her Inspired Insanity.
Hers is quite a story. According to www.donnalange.com,
Donna lived most of her life in upstate New York, working
as a nurse and raising a family. She is 46 years old, a
mother of four and a grandmother of two. Her life
changed in 1998. Her 20-year marriage ended. And one
night, driving home from work, she accidentally hit a
truck, which careened into a sport utility vehicle carrying
five people. Al five were killed. Lange survived, but the
accident scarred her. She says she suffered from post-
traumatic stress disorder and struggled to move on. She
saw an ad for a chef on a tall ship in Baltimore, Maryland,
and left New York in search of answers. She fell in love
with the sea and learned how to sail.
"I had this vision of sailing around the world, and it just
stuck," she says. She bought Inspired Insanity in 2000
for US$18,000, all the money she had. The boat was
built in Bristol in 1982 by the C.E. Ryder Corp. It's a stur-
dy boat but considered small for a circumnavigation.
"The 28-foot Southern Cross was not built to do what I
did. But I needed a boat that was my size, one that I
could handle." Donna stands five-foot-two.
In 2002, she sailed from the USVI to Ireland and back.
That trip gave her the confidence to attempt a voy-
age around the world. On a previous stop in Bristol,
she had fallen in love with the town and its seafaring
tradition. She returned to Bristol to refurbish her boat
and stock up, departing on November 11, 2005, for
the first leg of her circumnavigation, a 168-day sail to


New Zealand. She left New Zealand in November
2006. The sail across the South Pacific and around
Cape Horn took 48 days. She rested in Argentina
before continuing north to revisit the Virgin Islands,
where she is a legal resident. From the VI she sailed to
Bermuda, then on to Rhode Island. A knock-down
between the VI and Bermuda nearly ended the trip.
Donna says the journey was about more than piling
up sea miles. "I wanted answers," she says. "But I
wanted to know it right. I didn't want people to tell
me. So I went to the sea."
Antigua Holds Yachting Symposium
There has been a breakthrough in
Government/yachting industry relations in Antigua.
On May 16th, the Prime Minister of Antigua &


Prime Minister the Hon. Baldwin Spencer (left) and
Minister of Tourism the Hon. Harold Lovell headed
meeting to address yachting issues
Barbuda, the Hon. Baldwin Spencer, broke an
appointment with his Cabinet to chair a meeting with
representatives of Antigua's yachting industry. Fifty
elected delegates from all sides of the marine industry
including the police, Customs, Immigration, the
Marine Association, regatta organizers and various
special interest bodies met at the Antigua Yacht Club
Marina Restaurant courtesy of Carlo Falcone.
The guests were welcomed by the Prime Minister fol-
lowed by the Hon. Harold Lovell, Minister of Tourism, who
outlined the purpose of the Yachting Symposium and the
agenda which would comprise three subjects: Safety &
Security, The Bureaucratic Environment, and Marketing &
Promoting the Sector. Mr. Lovell stated he realized that
the industry was much broader than the three items on
the agenda but he felt it was better to focus on a few
subjects and visit other subjects at a later date.


President of the Antigua & Barbuda Marine Association,
John Duffy, introduced the subject of Safety & Security.
He stated that crime in relation to the yachting industry
in Antigua was not a major issue and that yacht skip-
pers reported Antigua to be the safest island in the
Caribbean. However, crime is on the increase, mainly
drug related, and efficient policing is required to pre-
vent crime becoming as major an issue in Antigua as it
is in some other Caribbean islands.
A lively discussion followed with many contributions
from the audience, and the Prime Minister responded
positively to their questions. In general, there was a
concern about the lack of effective police coverage
and commitment. Mr. Lovell summed up the discus-
sion and both he and the Prime Minister agreed to
address some issues immediately which could be
dealt with without reference to Parliament or changes
to the law. Other changes would need study and
consideration and, if necessary, legislation.
The discussion on The Bureaucratic Environment was
introduced by George Clarke, a Director of the Marine
Association. Mr. Clarke laid heavy emphasis on the prob-
lems yachts encountered when entering and leaving
Antigua, with particular reference to the superyachts
which have large quantities of "toys" on board for char-
ter guests. He illustrated the problem by reference to one
yacht which, in Antigua, was required to complete a
form which contained 1,700 entries, yet when clearing
into the UK the same inventory requires only 19 entries. He
also referred to delays in clearing goods and containers
through the port of St. John's.
Accepting that there had been problems with the
CARICOM visa as a result of the Cricket World Cup, Mr.
Clarke claimed that Immigration procedures were still
far too slow, bureaucratic and, sometimes, unfriendly.
An extremely lively discussion followed which included a
call from the back of the room for the resignation of the
head of Customs, loudly cheered by many present.
The meeting had now extended far beyond the allot-
ted time and the Minister of Tourism summarised the
concerns expressed by the audience and the areas
which need addressing. The Prime Minister, now well
overdue for his Cabinet meeting, was forced to leave
but expressed his thanks to those present and advised
them that he found it much more useful being at the
meeting than he would have done had he received a
report from the Minister of Tourism.
Continued on next page


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Continued from previous page
After a break for lunch, generously provided by
Antigua Yacht Club Marina Restaurant, the sympo-
sium resumed to discuss Marketing & Promoting the
Sector. To some degree the steam had gone out of
the meeting and the subject did not fit well with the
pre-lunch subjects. However, an interesting presenta-
tion was given by Carlo Falcone on some of the pro-
posals in the pipeline for improvements to the yacht-
ing industry in Antigua. The presentation was followed
by suggestions of various other areas where marketing
could be improved, in particular, the direct private-
jet-to-yacht service provided at Antigua airport.
Again the Minister of Tourism summarised the discus-
sion and Nigel Benjamin, Yachting Liaison Officer,
thanked the Minister and those present and, in his
absence, the Prime Minister, for their time and atten-
tion to the subjects under discussion.

Please Don't Anchor on the Art!
Jason Taylor reports: Late May saw the installation of
over 50 new statues at the underwater sculpture park
at Moliniere Bay, Grenada. These include
"Vicissitudes". a work comorisina 26 cement statues.


weighing over five tons and covering an area of 25
square metres. With the backing of the Grenada
Board of Tourism and the Department of Fisheries, the
project aims to help re-generate the marine habitat
and provide an unusual and exciting attraction for vis-
itors. It is the only project of its kind worldwide.
Boaters are asked not to drop anchors in Moliniere
Bay due to the risk of damaging these unique works


of art. Donations toward another fixed mooring would
be gratefully accepted.
For more information visit
www.underwatersculpture.com.

Jolly Harbour Yacht Club Moves
Pippa Pettingell reports: On June 1st, the Jolly Harbour
Yacht Club of Antigua moved its headquarters to the
BBR Sports Bar. The new venue provides better facili-
ties for visiting yachtsmen, including showers and a
swimming pool. There are also discounts available for
JHYC members.
Thanks to those who visited our recruitment stand at
Jolly Harbour during Antigua Sailing Week. We not
only recruited new members, but welcomed some
past members back to the Club. The event T-shirts
were popular, and we are pleased to see people
wearing the new club logo with pride!
For all the latest on Jolly Harbour Yacht Club, please
visit our "all new" website, www.jhycaniigua.com.

Dominica's Dive Fest
With continued focus on the sport of scuba diving
and an honor roll of sponsors, Dominica's 14th Annual
Dive Fest will take place from July 6th to 15th.
This year's Dominica Dive Fest will include photogra-
phy workshops, a photo contest and new equipment
demonstrations. Dive Training Magazine will host pho-
tography workshops with two of their staff photogra-
phers and writers, Barry and Ruth Guimbellott, who will
also be the guest judges of the photo contest.
Welcoming back Cable & Wireless as the premier
sponsor of the Dive Fest, and the continuing sponsor-
ship and support of Dominica Watersports Association,
the Fest will feature many activities for divers and non-
divers alike including a wine-and-cheese cruise,
whale watching, treasure hunt, traditional boat races,
happy hour dances and the awards dinner featuring
great prizes including cases of Dominica's award--
winning Kubuli Beer. Dive Fest sponsors, including
Oceanic (Heads Up Display (HUD) masks) and
SeaLife/Pioneer (amphibian digital cameras), will be
showcasing their products.
Dominica continues to be recognized for its sustain-
able tourism efforts, including being the first country in
the world to receive Benchmarking designation from
the prestigious eco-tourism organization Green Globe


21, and ranking as the only Caribbean destination in
the toD five "haDDiest countries on earth" in the


Happy Planet Index (compiled by Britain's New
Economics Foundation).
For more information on the Dive Fest contact
Marie@adams-pr com.

Moorings for Nevis
The installation of 100 yacht moorings by the BVI-
based company Moor Seacure Limited will begin
along the west coast of the island of Nevis in August.
The moorings, suitable for yachts up to 60 feet, will be
placed in designated areas from Oualie Beach to
Gallows Bay.
This news comes from Nevis Air and Sea Ports
Authority General Manager Spencer Hanley, who tells
Compass, "We are trying to develop our yacht
tourism product in Nevis and at the same time protect
the seabed and marine life. Hence, we have decided
to install professional moorings which will be hydrauli-
cally embedded 15 feet into the seabed, as we
believe that yachtspeople prefer to tie up to a moor-
ing rather than drop anchor. These moorings will be
installed offshore at a distance of 400 to 500 feet.
The price for use of these moorings has not yet been
determined, as we are still researching the matter
with other jurisdictions. However, once the price is
determined it may be necessary to make adjust-
ments as we learn more about the industry. We have
not yet determined whether it will be mandatory to
use the moorings."
-Continued on page 35


A banana daiquiri without a Northern Lights generator.












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NORTHERN LIGHTS







-

-4


SELECTED CARIBBEAN

SHORTWAVE WEATHER REPORTS


UTC AST
0600 0200
0930 0530
1030 0630
1030 0630
1100 0700
1100 0700
1130 0730
1200 0800
1230 0830
1300 0900
1330 0930
1530 1130
1800 1400
1800 1400
2000 1600
2030 1630
2130 1730
2235 1835
0000 2000
0000 2000
0330 2330


STATION & REPORT DESCRIPTION
NMG Broadcast
Offshore Forecast
Trinidad Emergency Net 9Z4CP (Eric)
Carib. Emergency & Weather Net
Caribbean Weather (Chris)
Caribbean Maritime Mobile Net
KP2G Caribbean Weather Net (George)
NMG Broadcast
Caribbean Weather (Chris)
Caribbean Sea (WLO)
Caribbean Weather (Chris)
Offshore Forecast
Caribbean Sea (WLO)
NMG Broadcast
Southbound II (Herb)
Carib. Cocktail & Weather Net (George)
Offshore Forecast
Caribbean Emergency & Weather Net
Caribbean Sea (WLO)
NMG Broadcast
Offshore Forecast


FREQ
B
A
3855
3815
8137
7241
7086
B
8104
C
12350
A
C
B
12359
7086
A
3815
C
B
A


TYPE
Wefax
Voice
Voice
Voice
Voice
Voice
Voice
Wefax
Voice
Voice
Voice
Voice
Voice
Wefax
Voice
Voice
Voice
Voice
Voice
Wefax
Voice


MODE
USB
USB
LSB/ham
LSB/ham
USB (Note 2)
LSB/ham (Note 3)
LSB/ham (Note 1)
USB
USB (Note 2)
USB
USB (Note 2)
USB
USB
USB
USB
LSB/ham
USB
LSB/ham
USB
USB
USB


Frequencies (in kHz):
A) NMN, Chesapeake, 4426, 6501, 8764, 13089, 17314.
Caribbean Sea approximately 25 minutes later.
NMG, New Orleans, 4316, 8502,12788.
Caribbean Sea approximately 25 minutes later.
NMN.NMG are currently making changes. See www.nhc.noaa.gov/tafb-atl.sthml.
B) 4316, 8502, 12788, 17144.5
C) 4369, 8788, 13110, 17362, 22804. Gulf of Mexico, Southwest North Atlantic, then
Caribbean Sea.

Note 1: An in-depth voice report followed by faxes and SSTV, except Sundays.
Note 2: Unless severe weather threatens, this net is not conducted on Sundays. When there are
active Tropical systems in the Atlantic, Caribbean Weather (Chris) runs a Net at 2300 UTC / 1900
AST, on 8137, Voice, USB. For complete schedule and changes visit www.caribwx.com/ssb.html
Note 3: At about 1115/0715 the Net Controller asks George for a Wx report, which George pro
vides. Then GeorQe monlrqne~ listeners interested in a more detailed Wx report t . I 1.; i.. t
on 7086 at 11 ,, *- 11 .. issue of Compass goes to press, a reader tells us, -.. I ., are
now on 7250 instead of 7241 at 0700 -George begins the weather portion about ,- i I1. not
doing any weather updates on 7086 at 0730 at least until hurricane season begins."

WWV has World Marine Storm Warnings (Voice) at 8 minutes after each hour,
and Solar Flux information at 18 minutes after each hour on 2500, 5000,
10000, 15000, and 20000 AM.
During hurricane activity, information can be found continuously on the Hurricane Watch Net
on 14325USB/ham.
If you ar ..,i .. I r a "weather window", there is news, entertainment and sports on BBC at
UTC 1100-1 .. ( 6130, 9660, and 9750 AM), UTC 2100-2300 (5975, 9480, 9660, and
11675 AM) and American Forces Network 24 hours/day (5446.5, 7812.5, and 12133.5 USB).
Anyone, licensed or not, may legally operate on HAM frequencies in the event of a life
threatening emergency.
SELECTED CRUISERS' VHF NETS
English Harbour 0900 VHF 68/06 Daily
Grenada 0730 VHF 68 Monday-Saturday
Porlamar 0800 VHF 72 Monday-Saturday
Puerto La Cruz 0745 VHF 72 Monday-Saturday
St. Martin/Maarten 0730 VHF 14 Monday-Saturday
Chaguaramas 0800 VHF 68 Monday-Sunday
Union Island 0900 VHF 68 Monday Saturday

Thanks to William Mills ofToucan I, Teri Rothbauer (and the Ghost) of FREE, Dave Richardson of
Overstreet, Betty Karl of Parrothead, Ellen Sanpere of Cayenne III, Frank Pearce ofSamhadi, and
John and Melodye Pompa of Second Millennium for radio information, which was correct to the best
of our knowledge as this issue of Compass went to press.

There are also .-..., 1i Ii i i. ..' such as "Hugonet" in German (0900 at 8140), too numer-
ous to list here.. I i n patriots!


USCG Invites


Comment on


Continuation of


HF Broadcasts



by Melodye Pompa


I received the following e-mail early in May from
the US Coast Guard:
The US Coast Guard has published a request for
public comment concerning the continuation of HF
radio broadcasts of weather forecasts. The notice
concerns forecasts by radiofacsimile, voice, and
SITOR (Narrow Band Direct Printing). The Coast
Guard's equipmentfor these services is obsolete, and
before it invests in an infrastructure upgrade, it
needs to determine the extent to which these service
es are used and what alternatives are available. The
notice asks commenters to answer eight questions
about themselves and these services. The comment
period ends August 24th.
We value your opinion very much, butfor your voice
to be heard properly, you need to fill out the q on the
docket at Docket Management System at
http://dms.dot.gov/search/document.cfm?docu
mentid=466958&docketid=27656. Your answers to
the questions are very important. This issue directly
impacts receiving weather broadcasts."
Russell Levin, USCG HQ
(202) 475 3555
Russell.S.Levin@uscg.mil
There are additional avenues for providing com
ments; you will find those noted on the website.
The Coast Guard is looking for answers to very
specific questions: your position within the mar
time community, your primary sources for marine
weather forecasts, whether or not you currently
use Coast Guard HF radio broadcasts and if so,
which of the three (voice, fax, SITOR), how critical
are these broadcasts to your safety, what alterna
tive sources for obtaining marine weather would
you use if the Coast Guard broadcasts were no
longer available, how the loss of the Coast Guard
broadcasts would affect you, and where you oper
ate your vessel.
It sounds to me, having read through the entire
-',. that the Coast Guard is looking for data to
'.1 requests for budget increases to cover the
maintenance and upgrade of their equipment.
Many of us have alternate weather forecast
sources, but equipment problems and scheduling
difficulties can prevent Eric, George and Chris
from their broadcasts, not to mention normal
radio propagation issues preventing us from hear
ing them. More and more cruising yachts are
making use of wireless Internet, but that, too,
depends on the power being on at the wi-fi hot
spot, the local Internet provider being operational,
and our onboard computer and antenna device in
good working order. If any of these components is
not functional, our wireless Internet for weather is
not operational.
The Coast Guard broadcasts are on four times
each day, and on three to six frequencies each time,
making it ne.rl-- ;;l- .t--- t-.t each listener can
get current .II 11. ... I. service is critical
during long passages and during hurricane season,
when current and frequent weather information
may be a case of personal safety.
The Caribbean Safety and Security Net urges you
to sign on to the website and send your comments,
even if you are only an infrequent listener. If the
entire URL doesn't work for you, use just the web
site portion (http://dms.dot.gov) and search for
27656 which is the docket ID.


VHF WEATHER FOR PR, VI
Bill Brady reports: In Puerto Rico, the Spanish
Virgins, the US Virgins and parts of the BVI, you
can get the National Weather Service recorded
weather on VHF weather channels 5 (162.450 MHz)
and 6 (162.500 MHz). The forecasts, originating out
of San Juan NWS Office, alternate between English
and Spanish and include a local Marine Forecast.
Channel 5 broadcasts out of the Isla de Culebra and
Channel 6 out of St. Croix.










Understanding Caribbean UJeather


Part Two


by Clayton Lewis


South Atlantic Hurricanes
In Part One last month, we discussed hurricane for
mation and how it applies to the Atlantic east of us
here in the Caribbean. But the South Atlantic doesn't
get hurricanes. Why is that?
Recall that most hurricanes are formed by the right
interaction between the Inter-Tropical C-n--"rTn-
Zone (ITCZ) and a tropical wave providec 'I '
factors co-operate too, like wind shear and sea surface
temperatures -SSTs). But the tropical wave factory
in Africa lies mostly between the Sahara and the
African rainforest. That whole area is north of the
equator. In the southern hemisphere there is no trop
ical wave factory in Africa and so tropical waves are
rare in the South Atlantic.
Also, the ITCZ wanders around from season to season.
It reaches about 15 N but only about 5 S, and at 5S
there isn't a strong enough Coriolis force to start rotation.
Furthermore, the water of the South Atlantic is colder
than our North Atlantic and wind shear tends to be high
er there. So SST and wind shear in the South Atlantic
don't tend to be favorable for hurricane development.
So there are no well, almost no -South Atlantic
hurricanes. In March 2004 (the southern hemisphere
equivalent of our September) the one and only ever
recorded South Atlantic hurricane went ashore in
Santa Catarina in southeastern Brazil. Since there
was no ready list of names, it was named after the
landfall. Hurricane Catarina was a Category 1.
Scientists still debate whether it is one more sign of
global climate change.
What Does a '30 Percent Chance of Precipitation'
Really Mean?
Well, it doesn't mean that it will rain for 30 percent
of the time and it doesn't mean it will rain on 30 per
cent of the area covered by the forecast.
What it does mean is that for any given spot in the
area the forecast covers, there is a 30 percent chance
of a measurable amount of rain during the forecast
period. Measurable is usually defined as a 100th of an
inch or 0.2 mm. So if the area of the forecast includes


where your boat is, it would mean there is a 30 per
cent chance that your boat will get wet that day.
Percent chance of precipitation, or POP, can be a
very subjective forecast and an individual forecaster's
estimate could be biased, perhaps even deliberately.
For example, some forecasters believe that people
would rather be pleasantly surprised by a sunny day
after being told it might rain, tha, 1 .... 1. unpre
pared by rain when the forecast c 11 i i -...
In their marine broadcasts, the US National Weather
Service doesn't use percent chance of precipitation;
instead they use descriptive terms. At the lowest end
of the scale they say "isolated showers" or "few show
ers" if the POP is ten percent and "widely scattered
showers" or "slight chance of rain" when the POP is 20
percent. "Scattered showers" or "chance of rain"
means a 30 to 50 percent POP. "Numerous showers"
or "rain likely" is a 60 to 70 percent POP. If the POP is
80 percent or greater but the rain is not expected to be
continuous then they will use the phrases "occasional
rain", "intermittent rain", or "periods of rain".
Scatterometers
Have you wondered what weatherman Chris Parker
means when he talks about "scatterometer data"?
Scatterometers are microwave radar satellites that
can see through any cloud cover and watch the sea
surface. They record the changes in radar reflectivity
of the sea due to the perturbation of small ripples by
the wind close to the surface. Radar backscatter
returned to the satellite is modified by wind-driven rip
ples on the ocean surface and, since the energy in
these ripples increases with wind velocity, backscatter
increases with wind velocity. With some fancy mathe
matical processing, wind direction is also determined
from the radar backscatter.
A scatterometer called Quickscat was launched in
1997 with a two-year mission life. It still dominates
the scatterometer data that we see as cruisers. There
are several other scatterometers.
In short, scatterometers are satellites that monitor the
sea surface and determine wind speed and direction.


Weather Models
The Caribbean forecasters often talk about weather
models. What are they? In short, they are computer
predictions. Every day (or oftener) weather conditions
such as pressure, temperature, humidity, wind speed
and wind direction are gathered both at the surface
and at various altitudes. Sea surface temperatures,
wave height and direction are included as well. All this
data is fed to a computer program designed to solve
the difficult partial differential equations of atmos
pheric physics.
The computer thinks of the atmosphere as a three
dimensional grid of points distributed in latitude, lon
gitude and elevation around the globe. For each point
in this grid it advances time in a short increment and
computes (for this single short time in the future) a
good approximation to the physics equations by using
the data from all nearby grid points. Using this solu
tion as a new set of input data it once again advances
time and computes a second solution. By continuing
in this way it computes a series of weather solutions
marching off into the future. Since each solution is an
approximation, eventually approximations of approxi
nations wander too far from reality. The best comput
er models give very good results as far as a week out.
There are dozens of computer models. For internal
US weather, for example, the grid is very tight and
land shapes are taken into account. The models most
relevant to cruisers and the ones we hear about most
frequently are GFS (Global Forecast System) from
NOAA, NOGAPS (Navy Operational Global
Atmospheric Prediction System) from the US Navy,
and GEM (Global Environmental Multiscale) from the
Meteorological Service of Canada. These models ignore
land shapes and concentrate on accurate longer term
prediction of open ocean weather.
Cruisers' GRIB files for weather display the grid from
the NOAA MMAB Operational Wave Model (wwave3).
Ti. ..I,. 1 i.; of sources produce GRIB files.) COAMPS
.1 .. from the US Navy Coupled Ocean
Atmospheric Prediction System.


SOME USEFUL WEATHER INFORMATION SOURCES


Tropical Weather Discussion
http://www.nhc.noaa.gov/text/MIATWDAT.shtml

Tropical Weather Outlook
http://www.nhc.noaa.gov/text/refresh/MIATWOAT+shtml/010919.shtml

Chris Parker
http://caribwx.mwxc.com/marine.html
See the website for the times/frequencies of his Marine SSB weather net
six days a week.
For a fee he will send you daily e-mail updates.

Jeff Masters
http://www.wunderground.com/blog/JeffMasters
This is Weather Underground.

Eric Mackie
Every morning ham radio 3855 LSB 0630AST
Eric is also the Trinidad cable TV weatherman.

Local Forecasts
http://www.wunderground.com/cgi
bin/findweather/getForecast?query=piarco
http://www.weather.com/outlook/travel/businesstraveler/tenday/TDXX
0002?from=36hr_fcstl0DayLinkbusiness
These are for Trinidad, the former is for Piarco and the latter for Port of Spain
-neither is very good for the cruisers in Chaguaramas. It's easy to get local
forecasts for other islands on these websites.


Virtual Buoy from Buoyweather
http://Buoyweather.com -enter a virtual buoy location anywhere
you want.
Buoyweather uses the GFS model; it simply reports what GFS is predict
ing for your chosen location.
For a small fee you can have daily e-mails (either text or graphic format,
your choice).

Offshore Waters Forecast for the Eastern Caribbean
http://www.nhc.noaa.gov/text/MIAOFFNT3.shtml?

Offshore Waters Forecast for the Tropical North Atlantic
http://www.nhc.noaa.gov/text/MIAOFFNT3.shtml?

Other weather tidbits came from books, online etcetera. Here are
some sources:
http://Wikipedia.com
http://www.srh.noaa.gov/srh/jetstream/
http://www.nhc.noaa.gov/marinersguide.pdf
http://www.hurricanehunters.com/askus.htm
Clayton's (see footnote) favorite weather book (so far) is: Mariner's
Weather by William P. Crawford, Norton Nautical Books.

Here are a couple of other sites for forecasts:
http://www.meteo.fr/temps/domtom/antilles/pack
public/marine/sea.jpg
http://windguru.cz/int/index.php?lang=eng (has some pre-set virtual buoys
-faster than Buoyweather, also GFS, but you can't set your own buoy


Thanks to Clayton and Fiona Lewis of the yacht Argo for this information.








REGATTA NEWS

Belle lie Marie Galante 2007
Stephane Legendre reports: For its fourth edition, the
Trophee BPE transatlantic race was named after a
famous French song: "Belle lie Marie Galante". After


the previous edition finished in Cuba, it was decided to
end the 2007 edition at Marie Galante, Guadeloupe.
The single-handed, one-design race, sailed on Figaro
Beneteau boats, attracted 27 participants this year,
all male except for Liz Wardley who finished fourth
overall. The race began on March 25th. It took the
winner, Nicola Troussel, 21 days and 9 hours to cover
the 3,436 miles between Belle lie (an island off south-
ern Brittany) in France and Marie Galante.
The arrival at Marie Galante was extraordinary as this
island, not familiar with racing events, made every
effort to welcome the participants. All racers say they
will be back next time!
For more information visit www tropheebpe.com.
Dominica Goes to Bequia!
Anthony Gunn and Hubert Winston report: The
Dominica Yacht Club's (DYC) historic first outing saw a
team fielded to race in the Bequia Easter Regatta,
held April 5th through 9th. Anthony Gunn, Hubert
Winston, Valence Victor and Allan Daisley entered
Rover in the J/24 Class in the 26th annual running of
this popular regatta. As far as the record shows, this
was Dominica's first representation and introduction
to a competitive sailing event. We were proud to be
the first as this will not be the last in our efforts to pro-
mote Dominica sailing.
The DYC team was mostly a training effort and did not
sail with spinnakers, but started and finished all races,
ending as high as fifth, and placed sixth overall. All
team members declared the entire weekend experi-
ence a great success not only for themselves but also
for the DYC and for Dominica in general.
"So many people were very happy and impressed to
see the big Dominica flag flying on the mother ship
and to see a Dominica Yacht Club entry into regional
racing," says Anthony. "This first participation into
regional sailing is a great step for the DYC and for
Dominica," adds Hubert. "We had a ball and were
well received by everyone," confirmed Val and Allan,
rounding out the DYC team.
The DYC has also entered the BMW J/24 Invitational
Regatta in St. Lucia in May, and are looking at plans
to continue racing the Dominica flag around the
region over the coming years.
For more information visit
www.dominicayachtclub.com.
Hat Trick for Pusser's Painkiller Thriller
Alastair Abrehart reports: Ewan Anderson won the


BVI's Pusser's Painkiller Thriller for the third time in a row
on April 29 with a blistering time of 44 minutes. His son,
17-year-old Sean, finished two minutes behind him.
Event organizer Owen Waters was third. This windsurfer
event is an open class format with any board or sail
accepted. Pusser's Rum, event sponsor, is the Original
Navy Rum that was served onboard ships of the Royal
Navy for 330 years.
The race started off Scrub Island with a start line far
enough east to give competitors room to clear the
notoriously windless Beef Island Bluff. It was then a 20-
mile downwind ride in the Sir Francis Drake Channel to
the finish off the Nanny Cay lagoon.
Ewan sailed following the same strategy that has won
him the event for the last two years sail deep, fol-
low the lifts along the south coast of Tortola and "go
no farther than half way across the (Sir Francis Drake)
Channel." At the prizegiving in the Pusser's Pub in
Road Town, Ewan, the oldest competitor in the fleet,
said he was "very surprised considering the very tough
competition today... Obviously everybody thought
(Sean) was the winner today. With Owen and the
other big fat boards and nice sails, I was surprised to
see myself getting through there."
The wind was a little lighter than the 20-knots forecast
and started to lose its punch for the tail enders. The
event saw a smaller fleet this year due, to some to
degree, to an Elton John concert in Puerto Rico.
However it was a far closer race with the entire fleet
finishing in less than two hours where in past years
competitors have still been coming ashore four hours
after the start.
Ewan's youngest son Alec was sixth and all three
Andersons will be competing in their fifth Highland
Spring HIHO in July.
40th Stanford Antigua Sailing Week
The 40th Stanford Antigua Sailing Week, held April
29th to May 5th, had it all: ideal Caribbean sailing
conditions; a fleet of over 200 yachts in 16 classes; a
fine slate of winners and many memorable perform-
ances; and a week of parties that gave this milestone
edition of this annual regatta the shore-side merriment
it deserved.
The Overall Winner was the Volvo 70 ABN AMRO ONE,
earning her the Lord Nelson Trophy. In addition, her
skipper Mike Sanderson accepted the Curtain Bluff
Trophy for victory in the Racing I division, and the
Budget Marine Trophy for a win in the 2007 Caribbean
Big Boat Series. Sanderson was joined on stage by
Cesar Barrios of Puerto Rico, who won the very first





U U


You don't need a carbonfiber machine to excel.'
Sunshine, a classic 1950s Rhodes design, was
Overall Winner in ASW 2007's Cruising Classes
running of Antigua Sailing Week on his 38-footer,
Enzian. Said Sailing Week Chairman Neil Forrester, "It
was a wonderful moment to have winners from such
different eras together at the prizegiving. It really
brought to mind just how much of a transition the
event has gone through, and how far we've come."
One of the best things about this event is that you


don't need a carbon-fiber machine to excel.
Antiguan sailor Hans Lammers and his vintage fiber-
glass Rhodes Bounty, Sunshine, took home the Peter
Deeth Cup for Overall Winner in the Cruising Classes;
the Admiral's Inn Trophy for the victory in Cruising
Class II; the Antigua Air Station Trophy for Best Antigua
Yacht in Division B; and the American Express Trophy
for Best Caribbean Yacht in Division B.
Altogether, 98 prizes were awarded in 37 categories,
including prizes for first, second and third in each
class, and special awards presented throughout the
fleet. Another multiple prize-winner was Clay
Deutsch's Swan 68, Chippewa, which won the Sanhall
Trade Marks Trophy for taking top honors in Racing 3;
the Richocet Cup for Best American Yacht in Division
A; and the Antigua Breweries Cup for the Best Swan in
Division A.
Other winners included Avia Wilment's Rodgers 46
Universal Marina, winner of Racing II and the Price
Waterhouse Coopers Cup; Sergio Sagramoso's
Beneteau 40.7 Lazy Dog, winner of Racing IV and the
Henley Cup; Scott Chalmers' Sigma 400 Sunrise, win-
ner of Racing V and the Air Canada Cup; and Bruce
Slayden's Gunboat 62 Looking for Elvis, winner of
Multihull Racing and the La Perla Cup.
The Overall Winner in the Performance Cruiser classes
and of Performance Cruiser I was Indio, Andrea
Recordati's Wally 80, which took the Chippy Fine
Yacht Woodwork Cup for the former accomplish-
ment, and the Big Banana Trophy for the latter. In
Performance Cruiser II, winner Hugh Bailey on the
Beneteau 456 Hugo B took the Antigua and Barbuda
Investment Bank Trophy, while Richard Burbridge's
Swan 43 Pavlova II earned the British Airways Trophy
for victory in Performance Cruising III.
In the Cruising Classes, in addition to Sunshine's prizes,
Cuyler Morris's Morris 45 Firefly won the Island Provision
Trophy for capturing Cruising I, and Robert and
Darlene Hill won the AHTA Cup for taking the Multihull
Cruising class aboard their Switch 51, Following Tides.
Race organizers are already turning their attention to
the event's 41st running, scheduled for April 27th to
May 3rd, 2008.
For more information visit www.sailingweek com.
Young Sailors to Attend World Championships
For the fifth year in a row, ISAF's Athlete Participation
Programme (APP) will assist young athletes from
developing sailing nations attending the Volvo Youth
Sailing ISAF World Championship. Since its introduction
in 2002, the APP has helped over a hundred young-
sters attend the Youth Worlds. Not only does this give
them the opportunity to compete against and learn
from the world's best young sailors, but APP sailors are
able to return home having learned or refined tech-
niques, drills and preparations learnt from some of the
world's top coaches.
The APP provides financial support towards travel
costs and entry fees. This year APP grants have been
awarded to 11 male and five female sailors from
Argentina, Barbados, the British Virgin Islands,
Colombia, Guatemala, Paraguay, Uruguay, St. Lucia
and South Africa. The 37th Volvo Youth Sailing ISAF
World Championships is being hosted by Kingston,
Ontario, Canada, from July 13th to 20th.
St. Lucia's first ever Youth Worlds representative, Laser
sailor Luis Meixner, was St. Lucia's Junior Sailor of the
Year in 2006. Meixner is also a junior instructor for
Optimist and Laser beginners at the St. Lucia Yacht
Club, so the lessons he learns and experience he
gains at the event will filter down into his nation's
youth programme. Attending the Youth Worlds from
the BVI will be Laser sailor, Bryshaun Scatliffe, and
Laser Radial sailor, Elsa Meyers, and Laser sailor,
Gregory Douglas, will represent Barbados.
For more information visit www.sailing.org/app and
http://youthworlds2007.org.


J0 nson Hardware -Ltd.


FOR YOUR MARINE HARD WARE, AND MORE


Chain & Rope
Anchors & Fenders

Electric Wire
Marine Hoses

Bilge Pumps

Lubricants & Oils


Stainless Fasteners

Stainless Fittings

VHF Radios
Flares & Life Jackets

Snorkeling Equipment

Fishing Gear


Antifouling Paint
Paint Brushes

Epoxy Resins
Sanding Paper & Discs

Hand & Power Tools

Houseware & Cookware


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~rule

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I






















Guadeloupe, Saint Martin, the British Virgin
Islands, the Dominican Republic and Cuba were visit
ed during the three-week-i .. ..i.ii, 1.1. )f the
Transcaraibes yacht rally, I I.. 1 .... .... I.. i. 16th
through April 8th. Ten boats registered this year, a
good sized fleet divided evenly between monohulls and
multihulls, carrying a cosmopolitan group of about 30
sailors eager to taste what I had prepared for them.
We enjoyed the participation of six different nation
alities, which is for me what a rally should be: the
opportunity to make new friends from all over the
world. Australia, France, Italy, Malaysia, Scotland and
Switzerland were represented Tt- I;;T;;.r- barrier
was not a big deal after a few .. ... I I drinks!
The Guadeloupe departure point was Marina Bas
du Fort, at Pointe a Pitre. The marina offered free
haul-outs for participating monohulls. (Sorry for the
multihulls, but the marina is not yet equipped with a
wide enough travelift!) The Marina Bas du Fort man
agement and rally sponsor Madras Rum did things
well. During the three days of our stay prior to depar
ture, each evening was an occasion for us to party
and get to know each other in a very relaxed atmos
phere at the Marina Yacht Club, headquarters of the
Triskell association.
The first leg started at Gosier Islet. Tacking upwind
towards the east and leaving Desirade Island to star
board, we headed for Saint Martin and its beautiful
new marina at Marigot, Marina Fort Louis. The pace
was difficult in the morning but, after clearing the
island of Desirade, it was just a nice 160-nautical
mile ride till the end, with 10 to 15 knots of easterly
trades blowing.
Some rally participants will never forget the wine
tasting contest which was offered by the Marina Fort
Louis. The game consisted of tasting and judging three
different white wines and three different red wines,
mainly from South America. Uncertainty as to which
was the best of each class made additional rounds
more frequent and for some it was clear no judgment
could come out of them, even with the cheese tray
which helped them recover from their difficult task.
After a last swim at Grand Case bay, a late departure
time for the BVI had us making an early morning land
fall at Round Rock. Clearance at Virgin Gorda was fast
enough to give time for a swim at The Baths before sail
ing to Norman Island where a great party was organ
ized by the BVI Tourism Board. The BVI Tourism Board


also treated us with an excellent meal at The Bight
beach restaurant, where we were honoured by the
presence of the Director of Tourism, Janis Braithwaite,
who also offered a free excursion on Tortola. The fol
lowing day a wonderful party at the well known Foxy's
on Jost Van Dyke ended our stay in the BVI.




1k 4l/ia .La i
'
1 '


Two hundred and fifty miles separate Jost Van Dyke
from Marina Casa de Campo in the Dominican
Republic. Marina Casa de Campo is a goal for many,
an ideal place to leave your boat in a luxurious, safe
marina and the best place from which to explore the
Dominican Republic. Our three-day stay there was full
of activity, visiting Santo Domingo, Altos de Chavon
and other sites. Each evening was spent at the beau
tiful Casa de Campo Yacht Club, where free cocktails
and finger food were offered by Commodore Fini and
our friend Tony, who was an endless source of help for
the group.
Las Salinas, a hundred miles away, was our next
destination. The anchorage in front of the Salinas
Hotel was safe in 25 knots of wind. After one night's


TASA IE20


Guadeloupe to Cuba


in 13 Fun Stops

by Stephane Legendre


100 and
power in the


This large capacity 6 liter engine comes in a compact package and only takes out only 225 hp. By comparison
our nearest competition take that out of a 4 liter engine. Running at a low 2500 rpm vs the competition's 3300
rpm or higher, the M225Ti will have a longer life (minimum 12,000 hour TBO) and quieter operation.

E g w pump has a longer life and less to go wrong while the waste gate turbo charger
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* peUtseSsm s urflhif lr f
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II I I I S i


rest, we had another windy passage -80 miles to Isla
Beata at the southern tip of the Dominican Republic.
Beata is an island where a couple of hundred fisher
men normally work, but during our stop it was desert
ed because of the Easter holidays. Only ten people
were around and a very nice Navy officer welcomed us
by offering coconuts to all the participants. The Navy
officers do six months non-stop duty on this island,
without going to the mainland once. No need to tell
you how pleased they were to see some life, thanks to
our group. We had a terrific party on the beach with
all of them, as they joined us in celebrating the 31st
i.. .... *" rsary of a couple in our rally.
Ih 1 11 -,.. morning we left for Bahi. T .. -' ..:1 ..
at the Haitian border. This is the most ... i. I. ... [
quietest beach I have seen in the Caribbean. Five
:...i i ... i I sand, and not a soul around except for
:. i i-. ...... selling lobsters at unbeatable prices.
We were probably the only sailing boats they'd ever
seen, judging by the questions they were asking. The
water was transparent and corals and flora were
intact. Everyone wanted to stay, but we had to move
on to our next and las .1 f the rally, Santiago de
Cuba, 300 miles away. II .- I drink on the beach,
we all left for that two-day journey.
Although last year we had experienced 35 knots of
northeast wind, this year the notorious Windward
Passage between Haiti and Cuba did not deserve its
name. At first we had light variable winds, then south
westerlies, then rain and then nothing, motoring to
the finish i.l ...i.. I .1I ,arrow entrance.
The fleet 11 I lI. I ... ..*1 I marina. Clearances
were accomplished with no problems by very helpful
and pleasant officials. The rally's closing ceremony
was honoured by the presence of Commodore Jose
Miguel Diaz Escrich from the Hemingway
International Yacht Club in Havana. An excursion was
organized for all participants to visit Santiago and its
surroundings, giving a taste of Cuba and its friendly
people. We sampled the famous mojitos (Ernest
Hemingway's favorite cocktail) at the Casa de las
Tradiciones, a typical place where local artists perform
in a late-1950s atmosphere. All rally sailors said that
they want to come back with more time to enjoy this
beautiful and unusual country.
This year, only two boats were sailing back to
Europe after the rally; all the others came back to the
Lesser Antilles. All of the 13 anchorages we had
stopped at on the way to Cuba were possible stopovers
for the return journey, which would make things eas
ier. Our friend Tony at Casa de Campo e'--n m -i; .-1
to get a letter from the Admiral, Chief o 'I I '11
Dominican Navy, saying that any Transcaraibes rally
participant would be allowed to stop in any anchorage
in the Dominican Republic on his return trip without
having to clear immediately at a port of entry. That's a
great help -thank you, Tony! Many boats took
advantage of this option when returning.
The ninth edition of the Transcaraibes rally will
.1. . I trina Bas du Fort on March 29th, 2008,
I... i ... .. ...i I uba on April 19th.
... r.. ... ... .... .. www.trnscaraibes.com


L I


IM5 5MMr115M1r35 n M22STi m 26STi M300TI







2007 MAYREAU REGATTA


An Island Showcase
by Tony Crimi


Above: The spacious beach at Saline Bay became the staging area for the races, with many fine examples of the
Grenadines' double enders taking part
Below: Party central! Regatta headquarters, Mayreau style

S somewhere between the hustle and bustle of
Bequia, and the nature experience of the
Tobago Cays, lies Mayreau. We've come to 4
appreciate Saline Bay as one of the best places in the
Grenadines to relax in the company of friendly people.. i
With fewer than 300 residents, it doesn't take long to K'
feel like part of the community. -"
By chance, we happened to be in Mayreau during
their 2007 Mayreau Regatta, held April 26th through
29th. The four day event organized by the Mayreau
Regatta & Sporting Committee was their first but,
judging from the number of participants and visitors it
drew, it won't be the last. The event included a fishing
tournament, games and a pageant, in addition to two
days of sailboat racing. The racing drew boats from
Union Island, Petite Martinique, Carriacou and
Canouan, in addition to those from Mayreau.
The 18 boat fleet raced in four classes. One race
took place on the Saturday and two on Sunday, in typ


ical tradewind conditions: winds from the east at 15 to
20 knots, with scattered showers. Those of us
anchored in Saline Bay had front-row seats for the
starts and finishes. With no cruise ships calling here
that weekend, the beach became the -t'i;-; -rea for
boats and the regatta party grounds. I I I -' non
displacement boats carried crews of two to four. As in
other local regattas we've seen, one of the most impor
tant tasks was bailing.
On Saturday night, the Miss Pee Wee : ...I was
held at the school, up on Station Hill. lI. I con
testants, ages seven and eight, were Jady Forde,
Tiffany Forde, Shaniah Raguette, Razanni Badenock
and Ronessa Grant. All had local sponsors. The win
ner was Jady Forde. The girls all did well, considering
that it was likely none had performed in front of such
a large crowd before. Like the entire event, the pageant
was an example of community pride.
Sunday brought the peak, as far as partying on the
beach went. Music, local food and beverages were
available to the crowd that showed up. If you needed
a break, you could watch the cricket match taking
place at the foot of the hill, visit with the racers tend
ing their boats, walk over to the quiet beach on the
windward side, or hike up the hill and enjoy the grand
view of the Tobago Cays. By Monday morning, the site
had been cleaned up, and Mayreau returned to the
quiet island that it usually is.
Tony Crimi is cruising the Caribbean aboard
S/V Ticketoo.



Mayreau Regatta

2007 Winners


DOUBLE ENDERS
Class 1
1) Bad Feelings, Samuel Forde, Mayreau
2) Hard Target, Victor Hazell, Mayreau
3) Robin, Adolphus Forde, Canouan
Class 2
1) Electric 3, Ken Deroche, Petite Martinique
2) Now for Now, Clayton Deroche, Petite
Martinique
3) Matrix, Eran Bethel, Petite Martinique
Class 3
1) Pimpy, Andy Deroche, Carriacou
2) Ark Royal, Roy Delisle, Petite Martinique
3) Fidel Benson Patrice, Carriacou
Class 4
1) NerissaJ, Nick Harry, Canouan
2) Progress, Damien Harry, Canouan
FISHING COMPETITION
Heaviest total catch: Norbert Dember,
Mayreau (147 pounds)
Most fish caught: Coli Ollivierre, Bequia (179)
Heaviest single fish: Felix Ollivierre, Bequia
(14 pounds)


After sale : JEANNEAU


Agent & agreed technician for :

Lecomble & shmitt hydraulic JE NE^U





1e *. lo ** M i- H arou







25TH ANGOSTURA TOBAGO SAIL WEE K


HAPPY ANNIVERSARY T,
by Wilfred Dederer
It seems like only yesterday since I was in Tobago. But
this year made a big difference: Regatta Promoters
Ltd., the Trinidad & Tobago Sailing Association and
main sponsor Angostura put on a spirited 25th
Anniversary Party and I had the honor to be there!
As usual, I arrived late in the game. My main job at the
Compass didn't let me sneak out earlier, so I arrived on
Tuesday afternoon just in time for the pre-layday
party. Betty Davidson, Regatta Promoters' manager,
filled me in with the latest regatta details. Results sheets
for the previous two race days, which had been spon-
sored by the Yacht Services Association of T&T and Gulf
Insurance respectively, got me up to speed quickly on
the latest positions of the boats in the four classes:
Charter, n i. i i .
During .11 i1 1 i I .. .... i 1. i issued,
Bnrggadung II (Be'.. I ., i .-i .... iI i i Pugh
44), High Tension/bmobile (Mumm 36) and Enzyme
(Henderson 35) were all in hot competition in the 11
boat Racing Class. In the Cruiser/Racer Class's eight
entries, Wayward (Beneteau Oceanis 432), Rapajam
(Beneteau 53 F5), Petit Careme (Beneteau First 38) and
Huey Too (Cal 40) were all battling for honours. In the
eight-boat r 'ri lass, with two of their four races
done, the -. I... 1 I 11 .I 36)
were inatightcontest 1 II ,, ... ** .. i ..... i jand
Merlin (Excalibur 36). And in the Charter Class, with
only four boats registered -Saga Boy (Jeanneau 50),
Annie T (Jeanneau 51), Alimata 3 (Beneteau Cyclades Pride ofBarbados! Bruggadung II blasting through
443) and Ambrosia (Bavaria 42) -with two more races at Tobago Sail Week 2007, held May 13th to 18th.
to go, it was wide open. I should mention the crew on Inset: Skipper Andrew Burke (center rear) and his
Annie T For the third time, the guys came all the way
from the Shetland Islands, 200 miles north of Scotland Michelle (you should see her dancing!) and guest
in the North Sea, just to take part in i i .. .I i cians, had the crowd going till long after midnight
Thirty-one boats in all came to rac I ii ... I .. Wednesday was Lay Day, celebrated with l
year, but that couldn't dampen the racing spirit. There drinks, food and games on No Man's Land bei
was perfect weather for sailing, the sea was not too went there by a regatta shuttle bus passing (witl
rough and steady northeasterly winds around 15mph cial permission) through private land, but nor
prevailed in the first two days of the regatta. you can access this secluded, white-sand beach
But back to my arrival. At the pre-layday party, an by boat. Partici;;nt= ;;1=t= -1- = .i-n=7r= hAI
enormous crowd filled the lawn of the : .., ii .. fun playing all I .. i- i -.i ..... i .
at the Crown Point Hotel. Guitarist Joe ., .. ski with three i .... .- .....
Trinidad and his group IMIJ & Co., with vocalist eating crackers and drinking water at the same


not competion towara an overall acing class mumpn
excellent crew
musi Now you know what I mean!
t. After two days of partying, I was more than
)ts of go out on the water to take pictures of the re
ach. I two race days from the press boat provide
ispe organisers 1-i tl iI.l .1 to the motoryacht
mally Peter de 1. I 1 I .1 ,,,. me close to the ac
only This year's course had -V-;-1 from
lot of years, Peter Knox from I Man.
try to Committee explained: "We put the course al
while and a half miles farther north...
time? Continued on n


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Continued from previous page
... the advantage being that there is considerably less cur
rent and more stable wind. The sailors seem really to like
the new course off the Lagoon and Pigeon Point; the racing
got even better than it already was."
On the Thursday, Charter and Cruising Class had
one race, Cruiser/Racer had two races, and Racing
had three. Wind was east-northeast, between 15 and
20mph, the sea on the starting line only a bit choppy
-great conditions.
And no big surprises: Bruggadung II, with two sec
ond places and one first, held the number-one spot
after the third day and, barring disaster, was en route
t- --iiTir. -r Flace as overall winner. High
Se o .a t I .- still in second place overall with
one more day to go, with Stormjust one point behind.
The Cruiser/Racers ended up with Wayward having
two firsts and Rapajam two seconds, placing Wayward
way in the lead after three days, followed by Rapajam
and then Huey Too. In Cruising Class, Business
Machine came in first, with Nirvana and Merlin second
and third, leaving Nirvana and Business Machine tied
on points for overall first place going into the last day
of racing. Our friends from Annie T in the Charter
Class came second after Saga Boy; third was a tie
between Ambrosia and Alimata 3.
After the daily prizegiving in the afternoon, the
organizers had planned a Karaoke competition for the
evening, so if you hadn't done too well in sailing you
c i I i. I singing! I had an early night at the
I. i i home away from home during the
regatta the sponsors took good care of me! Betty
Davidson, heart and soul of the Regatta Promoters
office, told me later that the Karaoke night was a hit,
but I had come to take pictures, not to sing! At this
point I also want to thank the ladies in the race office,
Nancy, Phyllis and Renata, for their help.
On Friday, the last racing day, sponsored by the Hilton,
the crews lined up again at the newly constructed float
ing dinghy dock to be shuttled to their boats. It was
another glorious race day. The wind picked up even a bit
more, sometimes close to 25mph. There was the usual
-i., ..i... ... i i...i,. around the marks, the crews on
ii cure their final positions.
And when it was all over, at the Prizegiving Ceremony
and Dinner on Friday night, it was clear that the
Barbadian Bruggadung II, with Andrew Burke on the
helm I Io I Ii 11. .. I. i i ... ... goingg into the
final r. '11 I ., Ih I.'I I., which, with a
third and a fourth place, made them the Racing Class
Overall Winner for the second year in a row. Second


Skipper Robert Thomson and his crew John 1, John 2, John 3, Kenny, Steven, Allan, Scott and Terry
on Annie T had a terrific time at the Tobaao Sail Week


Keeping up the
family tradition,
Business Machine
skipper
Marsha Farfan
accepts the prize
for Overall 2nd
in Cruising Class.
Marsha's mother,
Brenda, launched
Business Machine's
successful 'all girl'
racing career



overall was the Trinidad built Storm, skippered by
Californian Les Crouch, with 46 points. Storm's tacti
cian John Gladstone says, "Everyone loves coming to
Tobago; Les has made all of us crew very happy by
bringing us here!" High Tension/bmobile, skippered by
Trinidadian Michael Rostant, came third with 54


points, closely followed by fellow Trinidad entry
Enzyme, with skipper Paul Solomon, in fourth place.
In Cruiser/Racer Class, Wayward, skippered by
Jerome McQuilkin, the President of the Trinidad &
Tobago Sailing Association, won six out of eight races
and, with just 11 points, was runaway overall first.
Rapajam, skippered by veteran Barbadian racer Ralph
Johnson, was overall second and Huey Too, skippered
by Bernie Evan-Wong, a former Trini boat now based
in Antigua, took overall third.
In Cruising Class, it was a clean sweep for Trinidad
boats. Nirvana, skippered by Lloyd de Roche, broke
the tie with Business Machine to take first overall, with
skipper Marsha Farfan and her famous ladies-only
crew taking overall second, followed closely by Rupert
Grimshaw's Merlin in overall third.
In Charter Class, Saga Boy with skipper David
Downie from the UK made first overall with two firsts
and two seconds. The guys on Annie T were thrilled
with their overall second (including first in Race 2!)
beating Alimata 3, a French entry skippered by Raynee
Portillo, into overall third.
After all prizes were given, speeches made, the dinner
plates emptied and the last drop of -h~i-.1n -It;;-,
everybody was united in their opinion i. . .
ing week it was! But the organizers still had a last sur
prise for the guests: Denise Plummer, Trinidad's famous
soca artiste, entertained the crowd with her -- .t -t i t:
See you at next year's Angostura Tobag i i
-scheduled for May 11th to the 16th, 2008.


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Panama to Honduras,



Ducking 'Northers'
... = =II=
by Steve Jost .. ......=
Viva finally left Bocas del Toro, Panama, in mid- "i ...
January after waiting for that elusive weather win- ..........."
dow. We have learned that here, unlike in the .
Eastern Caribbean, one does not head north on
December first unless you are .11.... to dodge i ii-.
some nasty northerr" cold fronts. i 11' four boats
leaving Bocas Marina in December 2006 and
January 2007, two were abandoned and lost on
the reefs along the .. .... I I... ... coast
and one was dismast, I .... ... ... jndres.
We really enjoyed our stay at Bocas del Toro; the
marina, and the surrounding Almirante Lagoon
area made for some great gunkholing. The quaint
little Bocas Town was originally a center for
banana shipping in the early 1900s and is now
experiencing a major real estate boom.
In and Around Bocas del Toro
There are myriad neat little hotels, waterfront
bars, and restaurants perched on stilts over the
lagoon. The variety of backpackers, surfers and
local Panamanians makes for an interesting mix,
along with a nice sprinkling of transient cruisers.
Shortly after our return in November, old
California friends Chuck and Ann Silvers aboard
Mirage arrived and soon became the new marina
-1--l-T-'miii7t >riinni-r^ which was a great move
1 i 11. . ... i i... ..iarin a .
We also made a few interesting side trips to the
inland mountains of Panama and the coffee-grow-
ing area of Boquete. At 4,000 feet, with year-round
temperatures of 72F,
-Continued on next page
The Bocas del Toro anchorage at sunset. We really
enjoyed our stay at Bocas del Toro.... and the
surrounding Almirante Lagoon area made
for some great gunkholing'


Cura4Gao ---
EddO yllTlrO he u 5 ana Europ r

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Continued from previous page
Boquete offers a welcome change from the heat, rain
and humidity of the coast. It has also been discovered
by expat retirees. Also, unlike the Eastern Caribbean,
the rainy season in this area seems to start in
November, continuing through January.
Our first leg north was a calm 200-mile motorsail to
Isla San Andres, a duty-free vacation island for
wealthy Colombians. Only 100 miles off the
Nicaraguan coast, it is interesting that the island is a
possession of Colombia, over 400 miles away. It was
nice to be out of the rain and back in the land of blue
skies, tradewinds and brilliantly clear water.
Glimpses of San Andres
We had a smooth - and anchored in front of
the dilapidated but .. .. 1 little Nene's Marina. The
alternative was Club Nautico, a pricey private yacht
club which charges US$50 a week to use their dinghy
dock. Only 12 miles long, low-lying San Andres has
been largely overbuilt with a lot of tacky 1960s and
'70s architecture that is much in need of repairs,
mixed with a lot of charming colonial West Indian


aa


is a mix of salsa, reggae and even a dash of country
and western. There is the usual mix of duty-free jew
elry/perfume stores, discount liquor stores, trendy
boutiques, and "wholesale" electronic outlets that are
uuunA-a i 11


to escape the masses. For a circumnavigation of the
island one day we rented a motorscooter, which took a
little encouraging as this was a first time event for
Pam. I am still waiting for the fingernail marks to heal!



J X\

q* /


Tomorrow the Harley!' Pam and Steve braved
a circumnavigation by scooter of Isla San Andres


The anchorage at Isla Providencia, where God takes his vacations'. Here it was kick-back time
for some snorkeling and a nice walk


buildings. There are some beautiful beaches inside
the barrier reef and we found the locals to be extreme
ly friendly and helpful. They are mostly descendants
of English Puritan settlers, Spanish explorers,
Jamaican woodcutters and a variety of pirates who
roamed and ruled this area centuries ago. The music


usually associated with the cruise-ship crowd. For
the cruising sailor, the duty free status makes for
good provisioning and we found several good markets
and restaurants.
With a population of more than 100,000, it is neces
sary to explore the back side of the island if you want


Today a Yamaha, tomorrow the Harley!
Isla Providencia
Our next stop was Isla Providencia, another
Colombian island, about 60 miles north. Providencia
is much more laid-back than San Andres.
Continued on next page


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.one of rthe finct and safest yacht anbhorajes in the Caribbean, J 1.1 irs %LurmI.


1 TheT most ada;wced design on Curon 2.
Iloia.nj docks engineered in Halland.
Acomtrnnution for 6 yachts up lo 151 ft. 15 fl draft
Hlctrical power (127 nan 220)1
j *Cable TV. and potable wUci vm aiabke.
Mrimua 'uff n iloir VHF radio chnnmel 67 and c available


For infomauion on rates and facilities,

cama ll P. BIn 51 Co .A S't 9fi
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M -.1..l.jt.ji'jr..i Jljn ,**lr.-1.1 i *t".. 1 I W |p ii


awinjir


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Continuedfrom previous page
The island is only eight miles long, but is quite beau
tiful and mountainous with green-covered hills and a
population of only 4,500 people. After another pleas
ant motorsail, we were greeted upon arrival by Mr.


Bush, the local ship's agent, who arrived in a beauti
ful launch with both Customs and Immigration offi
cers aboard. "Welcome to Providencia, where God
takes his vacations," was h.- .' ''-. as they tied
alongside and quickly took *' I .11 the check-in


.....' .....
So t




", ".*. ... i v,. -
Spotthehat P d- .* s sa a a d r be


Spot the hat? Pam indulges in a serene solo soak at a deserted beach


paperwork. A far cry from the schlepping of docu
ments all over town in the midday sun of other ports
we've visited.
For the next five days, it was kick-back time for some
snorkeling and a nice walk over a footbridge to Santa
Catalina Island. The path follows the waterfront for a mile
or so, then climbs up through the jungle to the ruins of
an old Dutch fort and a spectacular view of the harbor.
n;;-- -....-- r-nt- a motorscooter for a circum-
, IIh '1 I ,.1 ... ..1 '1 ... .. iew s of
the surrounding barrier I 1. II... I I... -. in the
world. There are several well-run restaurants, hotels
and numerous eco-lodges, where for US$500 a night
you can sleep in a tent cabin and eat from a commu-
nal bowl, while hiking and tni--in- the thousands of
species of birds, insects, 1ii II' and plant life.
We opted for th- 1-r-.r;; "moto photo" tour. As luck
would have it, I .. .. of the island we ended up
off a side road at a neat beach hangout, owned by
Roland, a local Jamaican-descendant Rasta dude.
Rolando's Hideaway was everything you can imagine
about the perfect beach bar/restaurant, complete with
palm-shaded tables, hammocks, palapa bar, barbecue
pit and a _; -t .-: *-ment of rum drinks served in
coconuts "I. i.... ... I those cute little umbrellas.
Buddy Boats
At this point I must mention that we have been trav
eling with several fun-loving California couples since
leaving Panama. Pat and Mary Ann from Long Beach
on Sailor's Dream have been traveling a bit ahead of us
sending back constant e-mail updates of weather, way
point and cruising info. Tony and Sharon aboard
Hoofbeats, a brand-new Beneteau 52 from Dana Point,
and Damien and Debbie aboard Ticket To Ride, a
Celestial 50 from Newport Beach, have become our
"mother ships", complete with washer/dryers, multiple
icemakers, satellite TV with all the latest DVD movies,
refrigerated wine lockers and espresso/cappuccino
machines. Damien is the self appointed route planner
and weather guru who is always correct... 50 percent
of the time! We think, after all these years of cruising,
that the Californians are always the most fun.
To the Bay Islands
From Providencia, the 350-mile passage to Guanaja
in the Bay Islands winds its way through a teacher
ous minefield of offshore atolls, coral reefs and cays
along the Mosquito Coast of Nicaragua and Honduras.
I wouldn't attempt to guess how many boats have been
lost in this poorly charted area over the years.
Continued on next page


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RENAISSANCE
MARINA







Continued from previous page
In order to break up the trip and eliminate some night
passages, we had all decided on a couple of overnight
stops. On an obscure chart Damien found an anchor
age called the Edinburgh Cays, which I am sure was
last surveyed in the late 1700s.
After another calm overnight passage, we arrived at
the designated waypoint coordinates, only to find
nothing above water -no palm trees, no islands, no
breaking reefs. Maybe it all sank in a hurricane. The
only clue was that the depth went from more than
2,000 feet to less than 25 feet. Pretty spooky! After cir
cling the shallow area for awhile, we all decided to
anchor overnight and then depart for the Vivorillo
Cays for a daytime arrival.
The Vivorillos are actually three little cays complete
with palm trees, a sizable fish camp and several
shrimp boats. Before our anchor was set we were
approached by a couple of local fishermen who were
willing to trade ten lobster tails I 1 .- if cleaned
conch, and a bag of crab claws i I i t half pint
of local rum, a pack of .. 1 and two recycled
baseball hats. Such a deal I .1 ,- good!
The followir r-r;n;; ---- received reports on the
SSB net of a -i. 1 .. .11. ." cold frort -. -r Tm.-i
in approximately two days. Since the 11
minimal protection, we decided to depart immediately
for Guanaja in the Bay Islands of Honduras, a 160
mile passage.
Well, once again, the weather .i;;;. were wrong.
n;;- _- 1- ; 1 -1 runout. The:.. -1 mileswas a
.ii i ..... ich in 15 knots of wind and six-
foot seas, but our first clue of impeding doom was a
large black cloud approaching at dusk from the
north. By nightfall, the wind had increased to 20 to
25 knots, with the seas beginning to build. For the
next eight hours we were hit with intermittent cold
rain squalls, with the wind building in the 25 to 30
knot range. By midnight it was a steady 35 knots
with ten-to 15-foot seas on the beam. As luck would
have it, the wind moved forward, and by dawn we
were experiencing 40 knots.
After hand steering most of the night to relieve the
autopilot, daybreak was a welcome sight, except for
the ugly skies and seas. The last couple of hours the
wind came on the nose, which meant motorsailing into
45-knot gusts and some really huge breaking seas.
Needless to say, we were happy to arrive at the
Guanaja entrance buoy. Other than a few frayed sails
and nerves, we didn't suffer any major damage.


Guanaja
What a difference a day makes. The following morn
ing broke bright and sunny and we set off for a 15
minute dinghy ride to Bonacca to clear Customs and
Immigration. Bonacca is a four-acre island a half mile
from mainland Guanaja, jam-packed with narrow
streets, stilt houses, and a population of more than
10,000 people. There are no cars on the island and the
only access is by boat.
Guanaja has been hit hard in the past few years with
several natural disasters, starting with Hurricane Mitch










Bonacca is four acre
island, jam packed with
narrow streets and stilt
houses. There are no
cars and the only
access is by boat




which devastated the northeast side of the island. This
was followed by an uncontrollable forest fire that wiped
out a third of the forests in the middle of the island.
Several attempts to develop dive resorts, hotels and
-, 1,. .1 failed, but in spite of it all, the island
: ... ...... I .,,~, spot without all of the commercial
aspects of other islands in the area. While exploring
some of the little neighboring cays, we ran into Bill and
M artha Pullu... i i ,, i ,, i I, 1 ,, .1 ,, I ,
caysseveral *. ,* i ...... '11 i i i _
boat m arina 1 I ....... . i . ... I I I
ment. They invited Pam and me to join them the next
day with some friends for a launch ride, lunch and a
snorkeling trip on the north side of the island. To recip
rocate, I offered to photograph Bill's marina project from
his helicopter, which he keeps on a pad next to his
house. This included a two-hour aerial tour of the
islands. I think I got the better part of the deal.


Off to Roatan
Next, it was off to Roatan, the largest and most
developed of the Bay Islands, 30 miles to the west. Our
first stop was at French Harbor, a dilapidated spot,
that is home base for a large shrimp fleet and a few
rag-tag sailboats. Its only saving grace is a large
supermarket a short distance away.
The next day we moved around the west end of the
island to a beautiful anchorage located inside a long
barrier reef. Once again, we were back in paradise
with some of the clearest water we have seen in ages.


The little village of West Bay is a world-class dive cen
ter with numerous dive shops and lots of funky little
beach bars and restaurants. There were only four
boats in the anchorage and we soon learned this is
definitely not a good spot to be when the northerss"
arrive. Roatan has also been discovered by the gringos
as a place to invest in property and we passed number
ous new, plush, gated developments. Our friends on
Hoofbeat and 71cket To Ride opted to stay in a swanky
little marina on the south shore for a while, so it was
time to part company.
Our next destination is Belize but first we decided to
sail to La Ceiba on the mainland and check out the
local boatyard there for a possible haulout in the fall.
We are currently up a muddy river in the little T -
Marina, having arrived a day before the next ":. I
hit. We've had two days of cold rain and wind, but it is
predicted to be clearing tomorrow.














Luperon:


I.,J L ,. .. ,,. I


Ilni--" Tilia Bartletts article about "Luperon,
I1 i... -1 Perfect Hurricane Hole" in the April
issue of Compass. We had the pleasure of spend
ing the hurricane season of 2006 there. I do recom-
mend this delightful anchorage too, but with a few
important caveats.
The biggest negative about Luperon is the water. You
can't swim in it, you can't make potable water from it,
and it is so full of "organic material" you'll have to have
your boats bottom scraped once a month. You won't
believe the number and variety of creatures that will
flourish on your boat, dinghy, anchor rode, etcetera,
in just 30 days.
The most serious problem is that it is possible to get
in trouble coming in through the outer reef. For the
last few years there has been one large white mooring
ball to mark the entrance. The white color makes it
pretty much useless because it doesn't indicate
whether you should go to port or starboard. Starboard
could sink your boat. To get in safely, Bruce Van
Sants directions in Gentleman's Guide to Passages
South should be followed to the letter.
Once inside, there are several unmarked shoals that
new arrivals constantly run onto. Luckily these harbor
shoals are sandy and -n r--ll- easy to get off. A use
ful rule of thumb is: .1 :e a big area where no
boats are anchored, it is likely a shoal.
As to fees, Julia was correct in that it is possible to
argue with local officials and reach a compromise. But
that may be because the fees they are charging are
often "unofficial" at best, so they may be happy to take
your US$10 instead of the $20 they asked for. If you
don't speak some Spanish your arguments won't get
you far.
Last year, the "Luperon Class of '06" wanted to do
.. for this year's class, so we organized a
I.. the local cruisers and chose the four most
pressing problems to present to local officials. With
the help of "Handy Andy", everyone's favorite boat boy,
we got Sobeita Brito, the local Director of Tourism, to
join us.
Our issues were -from most to least important
as follows:
1) The need for a red and a green marker to safely
bring boats into the harbor.
2) Markers on the shoals in the harbor.
3) Repairs on the dinghy dock, which was unsafe
1.:- .in-in ;
Si .. ...-.. i i .... fees, while few or no
services were provided.
Sobeita listened intently, took notes and promised to
set up a meeting with regional officials and the
Chamber of Commerce. She told us studies have
shown the importance of the cruisers to this commu-
nity, with the average boat spending about US$1,000
a month. With 70 boats in the anchorage that is a
huge amount of money for the local economy. The
Chamber of Commerce volunteered to provide the


labor to build us a safe new dinghy dock, should the
funds be found to do so.
Well it's a new year now and the Class of '07 is
beginning to choose their anchorages, yet not much
has been done in Luperon. The dinghy dock was
repaired and that is i... 1. i
with. Thanks, Sobeita! I .. I I ..... I I . . 11
official navigational markers. I heard that our friend
Derrick on Unity has placed some white markers on
the inner shoals. As to the fees, the departure fee,
which had to be paid every time you left the harbor,
even to go ..i.... I .- the day, has increased from an
unreasonal i I : -. to a ridiculous US$20. I encour
age the Class of '07 to pick a leader and continue the
dialogue with Sobeita and other local officials. If they
see continuity from year to year, they will become
much more responsive. If you would like to see the
minute- I ... .. ....- .. i -1 d on my web
site: .... ..., I .... .. 1 .1 Go to the
October 2006 blog entry, "Mutiny in Luperon".
All in all, I still recommend Luperon as the perfect


Once you've made your way safely in, Luperon offers
a good anchorage, a low crime rate, inexpensive food
and an active social life

place to spend hurricane season. Our months there will
always be some of our fondest memories of cruising. Not
only will you be safe from storms, there is almost no
crime against cruisers (a few anchors and a motorbike
were stolen, but all were recovered eventually), food is
cheap and social life is abundant. Rent a car and get
out and explore this beautiful friendly country.
Perhaps the very best part is you will be anchored with
about 70 to 90 other kindred spirits and you will form a
community and friendships that may last a lifetime.
Over the last six months it is rare that we have sailed
into an anchorage and not found an old friend from
Luperon. My website web.mac.com/famouspotatoes2
has quite a few articles and pictures of Luperon and
the Dominican Republic. I hope you enjoy.

Jack Foard is cruising the Caribbean aboard
Famous Potatoes.


Souvenirs, Craft,Tee Shirts, Pareos,
Bathing suits, Furniture and more...
Tel: (784) 458 8316
ion Iand Bougainvilla@vincysurf .com

Seatood specialties, Live lobsters (Sept to
Apr), Bar, Pizzeria, Pool, Table Games
and its Giant Aquarium
Res: VHF 16, Tel: (784) 458 8311
Seaquarium @vincysurf.com ,

Water Station, Dockage, Watertaxi, Ice
(Blocks & Cubes), Bakery (French bread) 3
Res: VHF 16, Tel: (784) 458 8878
windandsea@ vincysurf.com

Day Charter, Mayreau,Tobago Cays,
Palm Island, Mopion
Res: VHF 16, Tel: (784) 458 8878
windandsea@vincysurf.com











Eco-



News


Caribbean Specific Climate Change
Assessment Needed
Dawn Marie Roper, reporting for Panos Caribbean:
Professor of atmospheric physics at the University of
the West Indies, Anthony Chen, is calling for more
research to be done on climate change in the
Caribbean, especially in forecasting and assessing
impacts on the region.
"More research needs to be done, especially in the
regional models," says Chen. "We need to find out
what are the major factors causing temperature
increases in the Caribbean and we need to use a sta-
tistical downscaling model that is designed for the
Caribbean. The one that we use is really designed for
temperate climates."
Chen is one of the authors who wrote the about cli-
mate change issues in the Caribbean for the recently
published Intergovernmental Panel on Climate
Change (IPCC), Fourth Assessment Report.
In a presentation made on World Meteorological Day,
March 23rd, Chen pointed out that the global climate
models used to predict climate change are large scale,
and they "do not see small islands like Jamaica." He
also said that there are not many peer reviewed publi-
cations on sea level rise in the Caribbean, which are
sources of information for the IPCC.
He was proud, however, that for the first time in the
IPCC assessment there was a section on small islands,
but he noted that only temperature and precipitation
changes were considered in making the climate
change predictions. Nothing definite, he said, was
reported about sea level rise or hurricanes in the region.
The IPCC's Fourth Assessment Report (AR4) will present
its predictions on the Caribbean climate this summer.
According to the AR4 predictions, all Caribbean
islands are very likely to warm during this century but
the warming is likely to be less than the global aver-
age. Professor Chen added that temperature data
from the Piarco International Airport in Trinidad show
temperature increases of a little more than two
degrees Celsius. Data from the Jamaican Met office
show that both maximum and minimum temperatures
in the region were high.
"We can be certain about temperature changes for
the Caribbean because all the models show increas-
es. The extent will depend on the (greenhouse gas)
emissions," he reported.
With regard to precipitation, he said rainfall in the
Greater Antilles is likely to decrease in June to August
and December to March. He was unable to say what
would happen in the other islands.
Professor Chen also mentioned findings on hurricanes
from a global climate model run conducted in Japan.
This model concluded that the North Atlantic hurricane
frequency will increase during the century, but that this
was recommended as an area for more research.
According to the AR4, climate models indicate that
during the century sea levels rise will continue around
the islands, but the rise will not be geographically uni-
form. There are no regional models for sea level rise
for the Caribbean.

Underwater Volcano Monitoring
The US National Science Foundation (NSF) reports that






Gourmet Ice Cream
Fresh Yogurt
Frozen Yogurt
Fresh Fruit Sorbets

..__,. lToppings
.. Sundaes
S".' Qts. & Half Gal. Tubs




Tel: (784) 458 3041

New Location at Gingerbread Cafe


a real-time seismic monitor has been installed on the
active underwater volcano Kck 'em Jenny, located
three kilometres west of The Sisters rocks and eight
kilometers north of Grenada. In May, a team of
marine scientists funded by the NSF and affiliated with
the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution (WHOI)
began using radio telemetry to monitor this, the only
active submarine volcano in the Eastern Caribbean.
Kck 'em Jenny has erupted at least 12 times since
1939; the last major eruption occurred in 2001.
The seismic station, called a Real Time Offshore
Seismic Station (RTOSS), uses an ocean-bottom seis-
mometer deployed directly on the volcano. RTOSS
allows seismic data to be transmitted by high-frequen-
cy radio to a land-based observatory in a nearby vil-
lage. The data will reach the shore within milliseconds
of being collected.
"This is the first time that radio telemetry has been
used to transmit data from an underwater seismic
monitoring station," said Rob Reves-Sohn, a WHOI
geologist and RTOSS project leader. Scientists will be
able to observe the "inhaling and exhaling" of the
volcano as it draws in and expels seawater, magma
and superheated fluids.
The research team is coordinating its efforts with the
National Disaster Management Agency in Grenada and
the Seismic Unit of the University of the West Indies
(www.uwiseismic.com). The data will be incorporated
into the regional monitoring network in the Lesser Antilles.
All shipping, including yachts, is advised to observe a
1.5 kilometre exclusion zone around Kck em Jenny,
whose crater is centered at 12.3004 N, 61.6378W.
International Group Protests Grenada Legislation
On April 27, The Nature Conservancy announced its
opposition to a recently passed amendment to
Grenada's National Parks and Protected Areas Act
that would allow the sale of national parks land in
Grenada to private developers.
Terry Adams Williams, Director of the Conservancy's
Southeast Caribbean Program, said, "This legislation
seems to have been enacted so that private devel-
opers would have access to lands contained within
any protected area.... This move will have serious
implications for Grenada's national parks, including
Mt. Hartman National Park, which represents some of
the last remaining habitat of the Grenada Dove, a
bird that edsts in no other place in the world. The leg-
islation will also impact the Woburn-Clark's Court Bay
Marine Protected Area, which has some of the
healthiest mangroves in Grenada."
He added, "In recent years, Grenada had demon-
strated leadership and long-term vision with its efforts
to design and implement a representative and func-
tional national system of protected areas. With the
passage of this amendment, the government has
undone all the good it accomplished all for the
short-term gain to a private developer."
Minister of the Environment Anne David-Antoine had
previously declared that the government of Grenada
would "protect 25 percent of its marine and terrestrial
areas by 2020," a move that spurred other Caribbean
countries, including the Bahamas and Belize, to make
similar pledges.
Solar Cat Crosses Atlantic
A motorised catamaran recently made a slow but suc-
cessful transatlantic crossing without consuming a drop
of fossil fuel. Stored solar energy powered the sun21
from Spain to the USA at five to six knots via electric
engines. sun21 silently motored into New York City on
May 8th, completing a non-stop 3,500-nautical-mile
passage in 52 days. It's the first time that a solar-pow-
ered vehicle has made the transatlantic crossing.
A May 15th report in On the Water quotes sun21 skip-
per Michael Thonney as saying before the journey, "I
spend many weeks each year on my yacht in the




MAC'S PIZZERIA










In addition to our famous pizza we offer
seasonal specialties and fresh baked goods.
Open from 11:00am to 10:00pm.
Closed on Mondays
Situated in Admiralty Bay, Bequia between
the Frangipani and Plantation House.
For Reservations: VHF Ch68 or Tel: (784) 458 3474


Caribbean hoping for good winds. But on sun21 I'll be
wanting lulls and plenty of sun."
Half the solar power generated during the day was
stored so the yacht could be continuously powered
through the night, and the boat only dropped speed
when the sky was overcast for extended periods of time.
The journey was conceived by Swiss shipbuilder Marc
Wist, manager of MW-Line. The 12-tonne, 14-metre
catamaran is based on the MW-LINE Aquabus C60,
which is successfully being used as a tourist cruise
boat in Europe. Twin electric motors produce 8kW
each to push the boat to a maximum speed of seven
knots, or five knots on energy-conserving long-range
night-and-day cruising. The building of the sun21 and
trip expenses were funded by a group of individuals
calling themselves the transatlantic21 Association.
Costing about US$575,000 to buy and prepare for the
trip, the sun21 is now up for auction. Wist is already plan-
ning a circumnavigation of the globe in a similar boat.
Whale Watchers Trained
A five-day whale-watch tour guide and naturalist
training workshop, sponsored by the International
Fund for Animal Welfare (IFAW) and CARIBwhale, the
association of Caribbean whale-watch operators,
began on May 14th in Dominica. Participants includ-
ed residents of the Bahamas, Belize, Dominica,
Guadeloupe, St. Lucia, St. Vincent & the Grenadines,
Grenada and the Dominican Republic.
"The main focus of the course (was) to provide partici-
pants with the skills necessary to safely and effectively
conduct successful whale and dolphin watching
excursions," said Dr. Joth Singh, Trinidad-born Director
of Wildlife and Habitat Protection at IFAW. "There is
tremendous potential for growth in the whale watching
industry in the Caribbean, as part of the global interest
in eco-tourism. We are opening up opportunities not
only to individuals currently involved in whale watch
tour guiding but also to fishermen and to young people
who could join the industry. The intent is to ensure that
opportunities within the whale watching sector are
broadened to create benefits for more people."
"By providing an exceptional whale watch experi-
ence to visitors in the Caribbean, we can do our part
to promote tourism here," added Andrew Armour,
President of CARIBwhale. "Whale watching helps the
whole tourism economy, with whale watchers con-
tributing economically through hotels, shops, restau-
rants and transportation."
UNEP to Tackle Caribbean Marine Litter
The development of a draft "Regional Action Plan for
Marine Litter Management in the Wider Caribbean"
was part of a pilot project initiative conducted by the
United Nations Environmental Program (UNEP)
Caribbean Regional Coordinating Unit with support
from UNEP's Regional Seas Programme. The primary
goal of this pilot project was to assist in the environ-
mental protection and sustainable development of
the Wider Caribbean Region related to the preven-
tion and reduction of marine litter.
The ubiquitous presence of marine litter, coupled with
its physical, ecological, cultural, and socio-economic
complexities, poses one of the most severe threats to
the sustainability of the natural resources, sensitive
habitats, wildlife and people of the Wider Caribbean.
As part of this project, a review document was pre-
pared on the existing status of marine litter issues and
programmes, including a compilation of the available
historical marine litter data. The draft "Regional Action
Plan for Marine Litter Management in the Wider
Caribbean" can be downloaded at
www.cep.unep.org/operational-components/amep-
resources/draft-regional-action-plan-for-ml-mgt-in-the-
caribbean-29mar07.pdf.
For mc
fional- :


UNIQUE IN DOMINICA
SITUATED IN
\ THE CITY OF ROSEAU
S Capitaienen Tel +7672752851
SFax +7674487701
S ,Lr '"/ VHF 16 Working CH 19
info@dominicamannecenter corn
S www dominicamannecenter corn
Dinghy Bar
Fuel (Marine Diesel) / Water at the dock
SDinghy dock
Nearby laundry service
Secured moorings
Night security
SIce & Provisioning (Grocery store)
SBakery
Clean restrooms and showers
Garbage disposal
Telephone & internet WIFI connection
Yacht chandlery agents of Budget Marine
& soon Mercury Marine
SLight boat repair and cleaning
SActivity desk (Tours, diving and water sport activities)
Visa / Master Card accepted











Eusi ess




Basil's Celebrates 30 Years
Dianne Wilson reports that the tiny Grenadine island of
Mustique will swell with celebrities and friends of Basil
Charles this month, as the world-famous owner of Basil's
Bar celebrates both his 60th birthday and 30 years of
operation of Mustique's legendary watering hole.
"Like Rick's Bar in Casablanca, everyone goes to




L r/l T


were right moguls and majesty have all made their
way to Basil's Bar to be feted and fed, entertained
and amused. The famous and the fanciful moments
that have marked the last three decades have been
captured in legions of gossip columns and magazines.
Basil's has been immortalized in songs, movies and
novels, making "to Basil" close to becoming a verb in
its own right.
At the centre of this nexus of gaiety is Basil himself,
whose laughter erupts with regularity and dances on
the breeze. Basil was born and raised in rural St.
Vincent, not knowing a Merlot from a filet mignon but
gifted with a charm and magnetism that has won the
hearts of everyone, from the elite to the everyman. It
is this rampant hospitality that has sustained the suc-
cess of Basil's Bar.
Perched on the rocks of the Britannia Bay's shoreline,
Basil's Bar overlooks the sparkling sea. The location
may not have changed over the last 30 years, but the
bar certainly has. Its first incarnation was that of a tiny
rum shop which gradually evolved, one table at a
time. The menu in those days was limited to sand-
wiches and the occasional barbecue, and the seats
were made of baskets filled with concrete but
somehow that suited the clientele just fine. In the
intervening years, Basil has continued to massage the
bar and its structures, recently replacing some of the
bamboo seating with remarkable antique carved
pavilions from Bali. The changes have made the
organic Basil's Bar even a bit more spiritual, if that was
possible. So, when passing through the Grenadines,
remember that great burgers, succulent seafood,
inhibition-banishing cocktails and a respite from reality
all await visitors down at Basil's Bar.
IGY Acquires Sun Resorts
Island Global Yachting (IGY), one of the world's pre-
mier developers, managers and owners of luxury mari-
nas, has recently announced that it has completed its
acquisition of Sun Resorts International (SRI) and its
subsidiary Sun Resorts Management (SRM).
"We are pleased to bring the marinas of Sun Resorts
International into the global collection of IGY," said
Andrew L. Farkas, CEO of Island Global Yachting. "The
strategic positioning of these properties in the
Caribbean definitely complements our existing assets
and affords us even greater opportunities to serve our
yachting clientele. With this addition, boaters can
travel throughout the region from St. Lucia, through


the Dutch Antilles, into the British Virgin Islands, and on
to St. Thomas and always have the premier experi-
ence of an IGY marina."
According to IGY, their developments are not just
enhancing and revitalizing their local areas; their net-
work of properties is also setting new standards for
service and quality at marinas across the globe. IGY's
signature marina, Yacht Haven Grande, has just
opened in St. Thomas, USVI, and can accommodate
yachts ranging in size from 60 to 500 feet. Its facilities
are considered by the industry to be the most techno-
logically advanced and are complemented by its
upland development of world-class shopping, restau-
rants, entertainment and recreational amenities, as
well as residential units. Since its opening, the marina
has attracted some of the world's most spectacular
private yachts.
Through its acquisition of SRM, IGY has now assumed
management of an additional 11 marinas seven in
Texas and four in the Caribbean. The Caribbean facil-
ities are: American Yacht Harbor, St. Thomas; Simpson
Bay Yacht Club, St. Maarten; Virgin Gorda Yacht
Harbor, Virgin Gorda; and Village Cay Marina, Tortola.
As a part of the transaction, IGY acquired American
Yacht Harbor in St. Thomas outright and all of SRI's
interest in the three other Caribbean facilities. The Sun
Resorts acquisition adds 442 more berths to IGY's
Caribbean offerings alone.
Island Global Yachting president Charles Garner
echoed Farkas' upbeat statement following the
acquisition. "Bringing the Sun Resorts team and its
portfolio of properties into the IGY family not only
gives us the leading position throughout the
Caribbean, but also adds dynamic leadership across
the company. With now over 5,000 slips, existing or in
development, and another 36,000 being planned, we
are one of the largest managers and developers of
berths in the world."
For more information, visit www.igymarinas.com.
For more information on Simpson Bay Marina and
Virgin Gorda Yacht Harbour, see ads on page 31.
Sailing Classes in St. Maarten
The Sint Maarten Yacht Club offers sailing lessons for
both children and adults, taught by SMYC's new sail-
ing program manager, Daniel Penning. The adult sail-
ing lessons are available on Jeanneau Sunfast 20s from


Lagoon Sailboat rental. After completing the ten hours
sailing course, sailors can then rent them "solo" and
take them through the lagoon. The SMYC youth sailing
lessons, using Optimists, take place at the Yacht Club,
which is located at the bridge in Simpson Bay. Classes
are held at 9:00AM on Saturday mornings and cost
US$10 for SMYC members and $15 for non- members.
Volvo Ocean Racer and ABN AMRO ONE crewmem-
ber Phil Harmer recently treated the youngsters to a
guest sailing lesson followed by a tour of ABN AMRO
ONE- much to the envy of their parents!
For more information, contact Daniel Penning at
smyc-sailing@hotmail. com or cell (599) 586-6709.


Iridium Announces Compliance with
New Security Initiative
Following the recent conclusion of the International
Maritime Organization's (IMO) COMSAR 11 meeting,
Iridium confirmed its network's ability to provide long-
range identification and tracking (LRIT) of ships. As the
only mobile satellite service with truly global coverage
over all sea areas, including the polar regions, the
Iridium network is uniquely positioned to support this
new global safety and security system.
LRIT is an initiative of the IMO that will require most
ships and mobile offshore drilling units to report their
identity and position at regular intervals when
embarked on international voyages. LRIT will enhance
global maritime safety and security, enable flag states
to monitor the locations of their ships at all times and
permit port and coastal states to better manage traf-
fic in their waters. As well as providing additional sup-
port to existing search and rescue facilities, LRIT will
also make it possible for authorities to identify suspi-
cious patterns of behavior at sea and identify threats
to ports and shipping.
Greg Ewert, Iridium executive vice president, said,
"Iridium is pleased to be able to support this important
new security initiative to protect ships, ports and
waterways. Participation in the international LRIT initia-
tive is a key step in our effort to support the national
maritime agencies by enhancing the range and relia-
bility of services offered to the maritime community."
Testing of the LRIT system is due to start during 2008.
Key requirements include: automatic position report-
ing either from internal position-finding equipment or
a direct interface with the ship's global navigation
satellite system (GNSS) equipment; and, the ability to
report the ship's location at different intervals. Several
Iridium partners already provide these types of servic-
es and related equipment using the Iridium mobile
satellite network. Iridium offers a number of maritime
voice and data services, including business and crew
e-mail, crew calling facilities, and ship security alert
systems (SSAS) that are compliant with IMO and
national standards. Iridium is able to offer both voice
and data coverage not only within, but also beyond,
the coverage areas of terrestrial systems in sea areas
Al and A2, and beyond the coverage areas of all
other satellite networks.
Howzat for a Turn-Out!
Although St. Lucia's Minister of Tourism said that the
Cricket World Cup was "a little bit of a disaster" for
hoteliers in his country, with the tournament failing to
produce the expected number of land-based visitors,
The Marina at Mariaot Bay attracted a larae contin-


gent of superyachts visiting the island for group play
and the semi-final match between South Africa and
eventual winners, Australia. Among the floating visitors
were some nine mega-yachts in excess of 150 feet
over the semi-final period alone, proving that The
Marina at Marigot Bay is capable of handling the
largest of the Caribbean cruisers and still has room to
spare for yachts up to 240 feet.
"World Cup Cricket was certainly an exciting time for
the bay," said The Marina's PR and Marketing
Manager, Molly McDaniel. "Not only did we have a
full house on the docks, but marina manager Bob
Hathaway was instrumental in helping to organize a
wide range of cricket-related community activities
including the highly successful Algozin La Bas (cricket
on the beach). This helped to make Cricket World
Cup a memorable time for visitors and locals alike."
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A TA TE OF



MARI LA LIFE!


by Phil Chapman


We'd been anchored in Prickly Bay for a few weeks while
awaiting a new generator, a factory replacement from
Fischer Panda. i .i i ...... .- a bow-thruster
to be delivered 1 .- I .. ....... .. nuck friends on
Ladyhawke. And we'd also been waiting for an inflatable
toy no, not a doll, a sailboat-cum-windsurfer.
They all arrived during the same week, so Chaser U
was in chaos while we shifted weight from one side of
the boat to the other in order to make room for, and
then winch into place, the replacement generator,


.... -. ,i .Is for a few days' free stay, in order to
1i11 I 'I i'- for an aerial photo shoot. In true
cruiser fashion, my wife Yvonne contacted them and
asked if we could come and take advantage of their
offer. Yvonne spoke to Jana, who said we would be
very welcome, "and we'll also have a barbecue for you
in the evening!" So after our hectic week, we shopped
for the basic necessities -wine, rum, and flour so
Yvonne could make bread -and set off for the east
ern side of Calivigny Island.
A,- .-A


Above: Grenada's newest yacht facility has a unique feature: a floating restaurant housed in a former lightship
Below: The Swedish lightship in its original occupation. Her engine still runs


which weighs 250 pounds; the old generator, also 250 The entrance to this bay is quite straightforward, as
pounds; and the 150-pound bow-thruster, which we long as you check the charts and spot the marker
lowered through the companionway to be stowed buoys lining the entrance through the reefs. At the
under our nav-table seat. head of the bay is La Phare Bleu. You can't miss it:
So, it was a strenuous week. How we have to suffer there is a large, bright red Swedish lightship on the
when cruising the Caribbean! starboard side of the marina. The ship is crowned with
It was then we heard on the cruisers' VHF net that the blue-painted light housing that gives the marina
the new La Phare Bleu Marina was opening its dock to its name.


The marina is owned by Jana Caniga and Dieter
Burkhalter. They are cruisers themselves and have a
lovely Swan 53. Jana and Dieter have obviously
thought this project through in great detail. The
marina itself is nearly complete, and they are also
building some one and two-bedroomed bungalows
on their adjacent land overlooking the bay. In the
same area there will also be mechanics, sailmakers,
and a mini-market.
Upon entry we were met by Dieter, who showed us
our berth and took our lines. Jana came along the
dock, welcomed us and told us when we finished
mooring, we were most welcome to come and take a
look around the area and the ..i.i-1.., We made
everything shipshape after our I .. Dyage from
Prickly Bay, and took a walk ashore. It felt strange to
step off the boat onto a concrete floating dock as
opposed to jumping in the dinghy.
The lightship is amazing, its old and new history
being documented in the ship's restaurant. Dieter and
Jana showed us around the galley and the restaurant
and introduced us to Alex, the head chef responsible
for meals in the restaurant and in the snack bar which
will be finished shortly. On deck is an old light tower
that you can enter, climb to the top and appreciate the
views of the bay out to the reefs.
Formethe .1 i i ..... room. Whenthis
ship was bui1 .1 ... .. .1i .. I I team, but it was
converted to oil many years ago. Dieter told me that
they had the engine running the previous week, only
for a short period, but it worked. An engine of this
type involves slightly more effort to start than mod
ern-day diesels. You have to put the pistons in the
correct place to start with, iini .iT.t metal bar.
After engaging this bar in i i. i two people
standing on it can revolve the crankshaft enough to
get the pistons into position. Each cylinder is then
heated with a kind of blowlamp, using an open flame
at the top of the cylinder head. Compressed air is
then fired into the cylinder, forcing the piston down,
and thereby turning the crankshaft. Fuel is then
injected and the engine continues to run. I'm not an
engineer, but that's my understanding of its technol
ogy -or lack of. I'm sure Dieter would gladly show
anyone around and explain.
During the afternoon, Surf 'n' Turf a charter angling
boat, came in for an overnight berth. The owner had
just returned from a charter and brought with him a
couple of fish for the evening's barbecue: a mahi mahi
and a barracuda. These were promptly handed to Alex
to prepare.
Dieter and Jana have a beautiful barbecue and
smoker; it looks like an old steam-driven tractor
engine. There are three chambers that run horizontal
1 1. .. 1, 1. ... 1 mne of which is used for the fire.
i .- . i, i though charcoal can be used too.
The centre chamber houses the grill where the food is
cooked by heat, but without flame. The left-hand
chamber/chimney has stacked shelving; any food
placed on these shelves is cooked by smoke.
Come evening, Alex fired up the smoker and, using
the barracuda, demonstrated its ability. Have you
ever smoked a barracuda? I can tell you, whether
you like barracuda or not, this is the best! A fine
appetizer was thus provided while Dieter supplied
drinks and Jana prepared an impromptu salad. Alex
then cooked the mahi mahi on the centre section of
the barbecue.
This was one of those evenings. You know the sort of
thing: people just show up, someone brings some fish
or sausage and throws it on the barbie, a few beers
and good company are enjoyed.
I'm sure Jana and Dieter will do well in their proj
ect, which will be operational June 1st. The -' -t
unlike many, uses local labour and, when it .- I..
ished, will be an advantage to the local community as
well as the cruising and boating community which
Grenada relies on to a great extent within its tourism
market. I am not a marina person, but I think the
facilities are good and cruisers are certainly wel
comed, in contrast to so many new projects which
cater only for the megayachts.
Good luck to Jana and Dieter; they work hard and
deserve to succeed. And if you want to see a good
example of a lightship, pop round and see them.



A&C YACHT BROKERS

BOATS FOR SALE

Port de plaisance du MARIN

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www. acyachtbrokers com
E-mail: acyb@wanadoo.fr


Voiles Assistance
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Sails & Canvas (repairs & fabrication]
located at Carenantilles dockyard
Open Monday to Friday 8-1 2am 2-6pm
Saturday bu appointment
tel/fax: (596] 596 74 88 32
e-mail: didier-et-maria@wanadoo.ff


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Full Service Station:
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E-mail: kpmarine@caribsurf.com
P.O. Box 17, Kingstown


















TOITRS & CRITTSES CAR & IFEP RENTAL.


Yacht Insurance,



Past, Present



and Future


by Guy Matthews


I escaped the commercial marine business in the
mid-1980s and became reincarnated as a minor play
er in the yacht insurance business of the New
Millennium. I had a front-row seat as the old-line sur
veying operations -US Salvage, London Salvage, and
the local shoreside shipmaster, mate or e ;'i' '
surveyor were replaced by a multitucl I I... -
veying ... ... .. ..- nd lone wolf surveyor-tech
nocrats. i *. .. ago a yacht might have been
surveyed by a master mariner who had little knowl
edge of "boating", the unprecedented growth of yacht
ing has today produced a true nautical hybrid -the
yacht surveyor. The unprecedented growth in all
things marine in the last half of the twentieth century
has resulted in a much more complex business struck
ture and a blurring of the lines of responsibility.
I attended the death of the wooden-hulled, gasoline
powered yacht and was present for the birth of the
:i- steel, composite, aluminum and carbon
Slit hulls and the diesel, diesel-electric, eco
electric, hydraulic, water-jet and other yacht-propul
sion systems. To paraphrase Hank Snow's "I've Been
Everywhere, Man", I've seen the wooden Elcos,
Stephens, Chris Crafts, Aldens and Hinkleys replaced
by the fiberglass Hatterases, Bertrams, Morgans,
Pearsons and Columbias, which in turn are being
replaced by the Sea Rays, Oceans, Beneteaus,
Hunters and Little Harbors. I've seen the costs of ves
sel operation and yacht values surge upward beyond
the stratosphere. And, horror of horrors, I'm watching
monohulls being supplanted by multihulls -and who
knows what next?
All of these events have made me come to believe
that only two things are certain in the yachting world:
change and conspicuous consumption.
This journey has provided me with a unique per
spective as the traditional marine surveying profes
sion adapted to the realities of the New Millennium.
The surveyor's ubiquitous disclaimer is appropriate
before I commence: "I do not represent any insurer or
surveying firm and the opinions expressed herein are
mine alone."
An Interesting and Confused Jumble
The yacht assured is a far different animal from the
commercial marine assured, a difference which
should be noted to fully understand yacht insurance
today. While the commercial marine assured is more
often driven by economic sense with professional
.tthe yacht insurance populace ranges
.. social and intellectual spectrum to
include competent and businesslike owners, hedo
nists, idiots, geriatrics, geniuses, adventurers,
escapees from modern society, and what can charita
bly be described as "eccentrics" who do not think like
the rest of the real world. (The words "pure nut cases"
come to mind.) With the advent of GPS we now have
yacht owners who wear red and green shoelaces to
identify port and starboard while undertaking voyages
across oceans without a single paper chart onboard.
While the GPS has made navigation easier for all, an
unintended consequence thereof is the blessing it has
been to salvors, surveyors and boatyards due to
numerous gr- .1-..-i i tr- n-in i-; 1 -th-r ;;it~
ward events c...- i i i . i,- .
lack basic sea sense. While most insured yachts are
practical for their intended service, some segments of
today's insured yachting fleet have either been over
come by age and use, or have strayed far from design
concepts embodying seaworthiness and utility. It is a
gross understatement to say that today's yacht fleet
and today's yacht owners are an interesting and con
fused jumble.
Nevertheless, it is my experience that yacht insurers
pay their claims and function admirably in today's
complex and sometimes hostile business environment.
Their actions rn-iit;;t;i;;;: innurnice market for
yachts in the: ...i i I I -. experience is
commendable and sometimes heroic. Unfortunately
the sustaining of a market for yacht insurance in such
dire circumstances causes the insurers to sometimes
react in a manner which is difficult for the layman and
industry professional to understand.
In the yacht insurance realm there are monumental


differences in underwriting, i ..... i .. i
coverage, philosophy and atti I II ... ... I,
insurers continue to operate in a traditional manner,
hiring the occasional surveyor and physically super
vising the minutiae of a loss adjustment using in
house personnel, it has become clear that the sheer
size and increasing complexity of the yacht business
requires that some reforms take place. Nevertheless,
some insurers' practices remain rooted so deeply in
the distant past that they do not even provide the loss
surveyor with a copy of the original hull survey as a
tool in assessing damage. Meanwhile, other insurers
send representatives out with checkbook in hand in
an attempt to quickly settle a claim. Yacht claim han
dling practices are in the throes of change.
Most importantly, not every event is intended to be
covered, and damage, when covered, is reimbursed to
a varying extent by each insurer. The difficult claim
gets most of the publicity, for which the public some
times bestows a harsh and unfair judgment on the
entire marine insurance establishment. i. ..
today's yacht insurance policies are not : ...
faults and draconian terms, the yacht-owning public
should be thankful that these sometimes brave insur
ers have kept an insurance market in place for yachts
in the face of a loss experience which, to this onlook
er, seems horrendous. To paraphrase Will Rogers's
comment that "prohibition is better than no liquor at
all," it is clear that the currently available yacht insur
ance is better than no yacht insurance at all.
The New Contractual Claim Manager
In my new berth, we established what I believe to be
i.1; -i.;- f the marine insurance service operation
i I. I,,,,, an operation in which a single firm oper
at-. .., ..t .-t.. 1 -.1 i, -, i- t, --- -li... . t
in II .1 '' I I I. II
and other single-specialty functionaries. It is a radical
idea which is succeeding, in part because insurers,
managinggeneralr -n;; ...1 1. 1.1- --- : i i
ways to operate :.. .. ii ... .. ,, i
sionalism and reduce their costs. I believe that this
type of service company is a model for the future.
We deal with all aspects of the yacht claim, from the
primary determination of coverage to the actual pay
ment of an adjusted claim. Our responsibilities include
1. ,,........... of the accuracy of stated facts on the
.I I. .1. .. I insurance, reviewing details of the hull
survey submitted to comply with the policy's survey
clause, investigating the accident, reporting to insurers
and reinsurers, surveying or ordering surveys of dam
age, coordinating .1 sometimes battling with the
increasing horde I .. masking as yacht salvors,
reviewing damage surveys, following repairs, adjusting
the claim and : ... i1.... actual payment of the claim,
many of which I, .. would be considered anathe
ma to tradition-bound surveyors in days of yore. This
type of service company involves responsibilities far
beyond the traditional survey function and, like it or
not, is subject to the insurer's ethical views on claims
handling. In other words, we act as an abbreviated ver
sion of the insurer's claims department and handle
claims as the insurer wants claims handled.
We have little if any involvement in policy writing
and underwriting. The ancient mystical art of marine
underwriting and its secrets continue to remain a
mystery to claims persons everywhere, but the funda
mental truths of marine insurance remain unchanged
-surveying is a science, adjusting is an art and
marine underwriting is a combination thereof.
When a claim is reported to our firm, our initial actions
are foc"-1 -n r--I;-;;in 1 --mprehensive preliminary
report -II .. ,1 i11 I -. lossfacts, reasonably
accurate loss reserve, details of the insurance coverage,
a first analysis of subrogation possibilities and the prob
able cause of loss. We quickly assemble the available
facts and assign a surveyor from our in-house informal
list of competent surveyors. This surveyor surveys the
vessel in the traditional manner and first provides us
with an informal (often handwritten) recapitulation of
survey findings, candid comments about the loss and
the assured, status of compliance with pre-loss survey
recommendations and details of the loss occurrence.
Continued on next page







Continued from previous page
This informal recapitulation, and the later-produced tra
ditional field survey with "found" and "recommended",
combined with a either a "note of protest" or the
assured's statement, are the basis for the preliminary
report to the insurers. Our preliminary report is supple
mented by an adjuster's review of the original application
for insurance and the original hull condition and valua
tion survey, if one was required for the coverage. We
review this information and comment on the compliance
w illi. i, 11. 1.11 . ....... i itions, accu
ra i ,I ..... ,- . i, 1 i in for insur-
an ...- .... i i ..... .. ., a multitude
of ii. 1 ..... i I I I i 1 I ,, preliminary
report becomes the road map to the final settlement.


We provide the assured a written summary of rele
vant factors related to payment of the claim, including
the field survey, information on deductible and depre
ciation, a written listing of the assured's responsibili
ties in the event of loss, and a page from an infamous
guide detailing useful facts for claimants submitting a
yacht insurance claim. When repairs are completed,
we review the costs and actually adjust the claim. We
are available to the assured during the repair process
to comment on those questions which normally arise
in any damage repair.
Good Surveyors' Reports
The surveyor's reports are the most important tool in
claim handling as well as being the objects by which
the survey- I: i;;-: 1 tl- world. I always empha
size that : i.I .i .I .....I, should be reduced to
writing and I always state that a surveyor's verbal
report does not eliminate the responsibility to reduce
all and I mean all findings to writing.
Photographs are nice, but the existence of photos does
not negate the need to write descriptions of damage
and other claim-related facts.
Since many insurers require not only a hull survey
of the potentially insured vessel, but also require a
Letter of Compliance with Survey Recommendations
for the coverage to incept, we see all types of survey
reports. Many assured submit a condition and valu
ation survey done for pre-purchase purposes to meet
the policy's survey requirement. Since a pre-purchase
survey should be much more detailed and discrimi-
nating than a survey for insurance purposes, the
potential assured might find himself or herself in vio
lation of the policy's survey requirement for a miscel
laneous noncompliance item such as the failure to
replace a burned-out light bulb in the head. (I've never
known an insurer to deny coverage for such an
insignificant condition, but in today's increasingly
fussy technical environment, such a denial is not
beyond the pale. I know of a dockside sinking claim in
which a denial was proposed by a budding yacht
insurance technocrat because the fire extinguishers
were not tagged as recommended.)
I am astounded by the superfluous fluff which some
surveyors put in survey reports. I have in my files
survey reports up to 45 pages in length on boats
under 45 feet which could just as well have been two
pages long. I find it hard to believe that competent
surveyors are -ir--.'in. I computerized "universal
survey report I .... 1. i is i. -i, 1 I i .
useless information included th .. 11. 11. ..11 .
locating pertinent particulars, and its excessive
length. I strongly believe that survey report writing
should be distinctive to the author, concise and
sharply to the point. In the best of all possible worlds,
the accuracy, conciseness and perceptiveness of sur
vey findings, rather than sheer length, should be the
justification for the fee. The insurer is interested in


the vessel particulars, fair market value, condition of
the hull and components, and the recommendations
affecting the safety and seaworthiness of the vessel.
The insurers have little need to view recommend
tions relating to cosmetic improvements, installation
of waste-disposal placards, surveyor pontification on
operation of the vessel, etcetera.
I suggest that "for insurance" surveys be no more
than two or three pages in length and accompanied by
a separate attachment listing the recommendations
affecting the safety and seaworthiness of the vessel.
All recommendations should be framed in exact and
imperative language.
The damage surveys should be equally concise and
should not rely on multiple photographs to demon


state damage. It is necessary for the report writer to
depict damage in words. A few photographs are nice
but should never be embedded in the report.
Moreover, proper reporting requires written words
which make sense. I regularly see surveyors who
report on a vessel's "new replacement value." (Oscar
Wilde's comment about those who don't know the dif
ference between price and value comes to mind.) Ill
thought-out verbiage or faulty reporting detracts from
the impact of the survey.
In the Years Ahead
It is impossible to predict with certainty what the
yacht insurance business will look like in the years
ahead, but I am certain that it will be different from
the current model. Yachting has become as good an
example of change and conspicuous consumption as
can be found. The continued growth of yachting
depends on many factors, not the least of which is the
availability of insurance. The insurers who survive will
have to be able to function effectively in an increase
ingly adversarial and hazardous market.
I believe that there is a place in the yacht insur
ance business for a contractual marine risk-rating
firm, operating much like the contractual claims
manager. I once wrote a business plan for Marine
Insurance Technical Services (MITS) which proposed
a vessel/owner/area rating system for yachts.
Unfortunately it went about as far as I could throw
a storm anchor. I still believe that it is an idea which
will allow the risk to be responsibly rated on its
actual exposure.
I believe that in the future there will be more claim
management i .....- I. II... all aspects of marine
claims. The -.. --.. ii i..... might be different from
the firm described above, but the aggressive and
..1, 1. .. 1 ........ ... veyor is the person most capa
i i i .. i... rvice. Given the complexity of
ii .... i ... 1.1 ii I the competent surveyor with
broad experience is better positioned to offer basic risk
information to the insurers than anyone else on the
planet. For example, this new approach could elimi
nate much of the broker-required written hurricane
plans and other useless fluff and replace it with a sim-
pie omnibus seaworthiness and storm-worthiness
warranty for yachts. This new business approach will
provide more opportunity for profit than a pure yacht
surveying business and will advance professionalism
to the benefit of the yachting world.

This article was excerpted from a presentation given
by Guy Matthews to the annual meeting of the US
National Association of Marine Surveyors (NAMS) in
Galveston, Texas, in April 2007.
Guy Matthews is the author of The Yacht Owner's
Guide to Marine Insurance: An Onboard Non
Technical Handbook, and Sundowner Stories, both
available from QN46@aol.com.


Duty Free

Chandlery

Bequia
North shore Admiralty Bay
S St.Vincent,W.I.
WA AE & Ph/Fax: (784)458-3360

FISHING BOAT SUPPLIES E-mail:
wallco@caribsurf.com






PORTHOLE RESTAURANT & BAR
& Shoreline Mini-Market

We serve breakfast,
S lunch and dinner
VHF CH68
Phone (784) 458-3458
A friendly atmosphere where you can sit and meet people.
Admiralty Bay, Bequia
Noelina & Lennox Taylor welcome you!


BEACHSIDE TERRACE
RESTAURANT & BAR
BEACHSIDE TERRACE YOUR SPECIAL PLACE
IN GRENADA FOR FUN AND FINE FOOD

Monday: Grenada Buffet & Crab Races
Wednesday: Steel Band Music
Friday: BBQ Dinner & Extempo Calypsonian

Open Daily 6:00AM 10:30PM
Located at The Flamboyant Hotel
Information & Reservation: (473) 444-4247











The home of Grenada's Longest Happy Hour!!
4PM-7PM & 11PM-midnight (50% off all drinks)
OPEN until 3AM Daily
Cocktails *** Relaxation *** Parties ***
Pool*** Sports TV***
Located directly on the beach at The Flamboyant Hotel
Tel: (473) 444-4247


in Lower Bay, Bequia
* Come and find us amongst the trees!
Candelight Dinners
Monday to Saturday
PLEASE RESERVE!

I' I Zm :


T








CREW VACANCIES!

S email: info@tradewindscruiseclub.com
TradeWinds Cruise Club operate a fleet of catamarans across
T six destinations in the Caribbean
SWe are the fastest growing charter company,
operating TERM CHARTERS, all inclusive, 7 days
We are looking for crew, mainly teams in the form of a Captain and a Chef/Hostess
We prefer couples that are married OR have been living together for at least a year
The nature of the job is such that the better the understanding and teamwork
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Requirements Captain with a Skipper's licence
Chef/Hostess with a basic understanding of cooking
Dive master/ instructor for either the Captain and/or Chef is a plus
We offer full training onsite in the Caribbean
This is a FUN job with great earning potential If you are willing to work hard and
have a positive disposition to life this could be your DREAM job
Anyone with an interest is welcome to apply
If you would like more information about this job or send your CV to us, please
use this email address
info.tradewindscruiseclub.com
or by mail to Bequla Marina, PO Box 194, Port Elizabeth,
Bequla, St Vincent & the Grenadines
Tel St Vincent +784 457 3407 Tel St Maarten +599 5510550




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Moorings, a Two-Edged Sword
The idea of installing permanent yacht moorings that could be rented for the night
originated in the British Virgin Islands. It was a strictly commercial proposition
which involved the siting of moorings in popular anchorages. Bareboaters would be
willing to pay for such moorings, rather than anchor and risk dragging.
As a commercial proposition it was a winner, as is illustrated by the fact that all
the popular anchorages in the BVI now have so many mooring buoys that it has
become impossible to anchor unless you are outside of their area. In most cases this
puts you in 60 or more feet of water, where it is difficult to anchor.
The idea of permanent moorings spread to St. John, USVI. The Parks Department
put them in some areas to preserve the coral from damage and in other areas
allegedly to allow the turtle grass, which is uprooted by anchoring and anchor
chains, to regenerate. However, they can get ahead of themselves. For example, they
have established moorings in Francis Bay to allow the turtle grass to regenerate. But
Rudy Thompson, Dick Avery and I have pointed out that in the 1950s, when we
arrived, there were basically no yachts in the Virgin Islands to damage the turtle
grass, and there was no turtle grass in Francis Bay.
Having permanent moorings in all the popular anchorages in the Virgin Islands is
a two-edged sword. It is a pain in the backside in that all the good anchoring spots
are gone, but it is good that "bareboat bombs" are not dragging through the anchor
age, bouncing off other boats and calling the bases for help every time it blows.





















The good side of moorings is illustrated by the fact that, in the second week in
January 2006, after two weeks o 1 ..I. .. ,r calms in the BVI, the Christmas Winds
arrived with --n.-;n-- My .1 I.. I. and I were sailing on a friend's boat,
anchored in 1.. ., I I..I secluded cove in Bluff Bay on the south side of Beef
Island. Three times gusts came through that laid us over till we were rail down. The
gusts were so strong that they picked up the surface of the water and blew it off
towards Peter Island like a fine mist. Yet with all this wind, there were no calls on
the radio of yachts dragging and calling for help. All were well secured to profes
sionally set mooring buoys, and the crews were off enjoying the shore-side life rather
than trying to reset the anchor in a blow.
Despite their proliferation, the widespread establishment of moorings has not
ruined the Virgin Islands for the cruising yachtsman who is willing to get off the
beaten track. My first cruise in the Virgin Islands was during December 1956 and
January 1957; the last time I cruised these waters was in January 2006. There are
still plenty of nice, secluded anchorages where you will be alone or have only one
other boat if you are willing to seek them out. This is not only true in the Virgins but
also throughout the Eastern Caribbean.
Permanent moorings slowly spread south, first to St. Lucia, then to t
Island cut in St. Vincent, on to Mustique and Admiralty Bay. The "Moor
moorings within the Virgin Islands have developed a reputation for being very reli
able, well-established, well-secured and very well-maintained. Unfortunately that
cannot be said of the many moorings laid at islands further south, where you are
well advised to dive and inspect any mooring you take up, so as to ascertain its con
edition and suitability for your boat.
A Roll-Free Harbour for Canouan?
On another subject, Charlestown Bay (Grand Bay), Canouan, has always been a
rock-and-rolling anchorage. The only quiet part of the harbor is up tight into the
northeast corner, where there is no beach.
Take a look at the truly wonderful beach along the southeast part of the bay.
Usually, if you have a wonderful beach you will not have a calm anchorage as it is
the ever-present swell that creates the beach. WV 1. ..... i .1 .......
the Charlestown anchorage goes from being ... .1 .....II I
Depending on the sea conditions, landing a dinghy on the beach or alongside the
dock varies from being very difficult to impossible. At times I am sure that the
M--rins -harter parties have barely stepped off their plane and been delivered on
S1 they start to get seasick while still at anchor.
Glossy Hill is being blown up to provide fill to extend the airport runway, mak
ing it possible for international flights to fly direct to Canouan. While airport devel
opment projects in the region have a checkered history, with the blowing up of
Glossy Hill there is probably enough rubbi I ... 1.... really constructive. I
.... i .. .. breakwater across the r. , -. I I ..- Bay, the bay just east
If a decent-sized gap is left on the western end of the breakwater the swell break
ing on the gap would feed through the harbor and out the channel at the eastern
end, providing excellent water circulation. Nens Bay would be a miniature
Christiansted harbour, St. Croix. In Christiansted, the sea breaks on the reef, floods
into the harbor and exits through the channel at the eastern end; the water there is
always perfectly clear.
A breakwater at Nens Bay would create a calm, all-weather harbor for Canouan.
A marina could be built, and charter guests could climb off the plane and, ten
minutes after clearing Customs, walk onboard their boat moored stern-to in a
quiet anchorage.








he Grenadines are a dream destination for
sailors from around the world, and tourism in
this --ri-n .1-ri--. its largest share of business
and income I. ... ii.... Over the last decade I have
been wondering why another boating activity -sea
kayaking -has not similarly developed in this part of
the world.


occasionally, a boatman in the region has told me about
having seen the odd paddlers coming through, often on
longer tours up the island chain. Clearly, these visitors
are rare and, as far as I could figure out to date, they
have not left any reports or traces on the Internet.
The Grenadine islands provide plenty of opportunity
for scenic, safe and challenging trips. Most kayakers


An Untapped Resource
V isitor- , , ,, .... . ..
w ell as t i, i ,, i i I. 1 ... ... .
America II ,, I .11 ,, I II,
sands ol . i ,,, i .
days, an i I . .
es provi i... ........ .. .. ,
all these
Search . . I 1 h I I I
enterprise i I .. II Ih I I ,,, I,, I,,,
such fari i .i .. . i 1 i i .
Australia .. i .
th in g m e. i i I , 11, ... i . , ,i.
There 2..
B elize S . . .I i .. . . i I .. .. ..
There an .1 ... ... 11 h. h ,
ocean" ( I I .. I I I I
this refe: -i i .,, E
kayaks" .1 11,
problems' i i .1 .. i i .i
the frigic[ ... -i, _1, ,.-,, thl ,i Li th ....
and Canadian Northwest, paddling the warm and
translucent waters of the Grenadines should be a
sheer delight year-round.
Only once -l1.in; t* ir t dozen or so years have I
seen a group I .1 -; here -a group of Dutch
on a beach in Bequia with inflatable sea kayaks. They
said they were on the way to paddle to Mustique. Also,


might prefer traveling up and down the leeward sides
of the many islands, visiting beaches and reefs, while
others might cross between islands and brave some of
the wavy waters. In principle, sea kay- 1 ..1- .. .t
the seas in just about any type of i I ,. I
course advanced skill levels are required for some of
the more demanding situations with waves and winds.
I Decide to Buy
Frustrated with the fact that I seemed unable to meet
kayakers in the Grenadines, and always encouraged to
take the plunge myself when visiting back home in
British C. i.. i i I . . ... activities
there, I d i i .. I 1 ... i it, ...



,i. . ,I . .. '. i .. t t l.. t l. ~ I '


C (mIMt Jolhni Loui 8,76-13-6.044 876,871.441 2
e-nai I: in- e r rol [IN nninari na m N H F ( hannel 16







Continued from previous page
...even if this would force me to do some local exploring
by myself I just had to consider myself worthy of
spending a good chunk of money (a new sea kayak cost
ing about US$1,000 to $1,500) for my own pleasure,
including the eventual 36-percent Customs duty bill.
I chose a composite Necky Eskia, reputed to provide
a good balance of stability and speed. Good things
always come in threes. After I acquired my own kayak,
there suddenly was a second one brought in by one of
the students at the medical college in St. Vincent, and
then I saw a young Vincentian with a two-seater sea

r-'' iiiii


kayak. In addition, this year a tourist enterprise with
a few kayaks opened at Buccament Bay. So, maybe
there are developments promising to make sea kayak
ing popular both for locals and tourists in St. Vincent
& the Grenadines!
Sea kayaks have a cockpit, bulkheads and use a
spray skirt. They also have two sealable ports to store
some luggage in the bulkheads for touring and
overnight trips. They come in various shapes and
designs, depending on whether you want to opt for
speed or stability. To each his own!
The so-called "ocean kayaks" mentioned above are
top seating -one sits on, not in them. They have self
bailing composite bodies with a high freeboard that
makes them very wind sensitive and thus unsuitable
for open ocean waters. They are fun craft for running
about in calm waters and close to shore, but are not
generally suitable for negotiating more difficult and
windy open sea conditions.
My Early Attempts
I had some white-water canoeing and kayaking


experience from a long time ago when we canoed wild
rivers and rapids in Alberta, Canada, and explored the
fabled Nahanni River in the Northwest Territories.
Thus I have s( ... I .. I waves, currents and pad
dle strokes. B .i i .. i .... i that there is a difference
between paddling my new sea kayak in choppy ocean
waters and running rivers in canoes: you have to be
constantly alert and, at a point, the changing patterns
and constantly changing shapes of waves coming your
way can make you dizzy.
Also I found that there is quite a difference paddling
a kayak with or against the waves. Paddling into


Looking back towards St. Vincent. There are endless
opportunities for safe and challenging trips in, around
and among these beautiful islands
incoming waves is easier: you see what is coming and
can adjust your strokes and lean for balance. But
when the waves come from behind I I .... -eeas" to
use proper sailor's jargon), it is 1.11 , story.
Although you know tha .... i1.. is coming, being
unable to look behind *-.1 I. I following sea may
push you this way or that, unbalance and even cap
size you. This is where skill and strength are needed.
On one of my early excursions outside St. Vincent's
Blue Lagoon I was thrilled to meet medium-sized
waves head-on after paddling through the pass of the
protective reef. But when turning around, it did not
take very long before a following wave pushed me side
ways and I capsized.
Now, the experienced and well-trained paddler of
course would have done an Eskimo roll -that's where
the spray skirt comes into its own, preventing the
cockpit filling with water. I had done such rolls many


years ago with a whitewater kayak, but I am not
skilled with this now so I wasted no time trying and
quickly exited the kayak under water.
I was little concerned because a few swim strokes eas
ily directed me and the floating boat towards the Young
Island Channel where I knew I would find footing and
manage to get ashore. On this occasion, however, a fish
ing boat came by, 11, i 1... 1 1 :..I my kayak.
It was easy to i ,.. 1. ,I i al descrip
tions of the techniques of getting back into your kayak,
such as by using a so-called paddle float. After the
above experience I practiced this technique quite suc
cessfully in calm waters but now I needed a true acci
dent to make me try it in wavy conditions. Getting
back in may be the least of your problems -sitting in
an unstable craft with the cockpit half full of water and
-in- t- bail it out may not be so simple in a rough
.11, several boats traveling together other tech
niques can be used, but to practice these I may have
to wait until sea kayaking catches on in this region!
In the Southern Grenadines
One of my next adventures was to explore kayaking
in and around the waters of the Grenadines out of
Union Island. Crossing from Clifton to Palm Island
was an easy 25 minutes in short choppy waves and
it ----1 wind. The return, with the wind and
S i .. only took about 15 minutes. In these
waters, the waves are not too high, but attention is
needed all the time. After some time I found it became
a mental exercise to remain observant and focused
rather than careless and unprepared, regarding the
ever -.;;;; nditions of the surrounding seas.
A i I ... Mayreau to the Tobago Cays against
a stiff wind took about an hour. Of course, in and
around the Cays paddling is at its prime with reef
protected calm conditions, clear turquoise waters,
plenty of pristine scenery and many small beaches to
take a break at. With luck, you may even have sea tur
tles catching a breath close to your boat.
A trip from Clifton to Big Sand Bay on Union Island was
30 minutes, and on that trip I was lucky that the follow
iM- ------, -- nnn-.; nft-n ti, waves there would
..... i. ...i i i .i .. -. i and drifted with the
.1 ,,. 1 .... I... i .. no big problem on
II,.- .- I 1 h I I II... I Ihi I I side of Union Island
i ,1 1i I I -1.1 -1. i. I I I ovide easy and rela
. I - I I. .1. .... I until recently only
accessible by boat or via some bush paths. My next trip
should be a crossing from Union to Mayreau.
Continued on next page


SAl LAMAKINC

RIGGING

ELECTRONICS |


0 Neu $jktIsn t

G e&aue up in ocI mm

Gear & Furlers in Stock & MI filings in MloOK








Continued from previous page
I learned quickly that when paddling alone it is wise
to be cautious and navigate only in waters where one
would be sure to be pushed towards safe shores rather
than drift off into open waters. Otherwise, seeking
backup with an accompanying boat is mandatory. For
tourist operations there would be no problem: the cost
of hiring a guide-boat backing up a group of kayakers
would be acceptable to most groups and thus open up
endless opportunities for trips in the one or two-hour
range throughout the Grenadines.
The Bequia Channel Challenge
One obvious and early aim of mine was to cross the
nine-mile wide Bequia Channel between St. Vincent
and the island of Bequia. In good conditions, I figured
I should need no longer than two or three hours. But
conditions in the channel are often adverse, with
waves, wind, a westerly current of some three to five
knots and, sometimes, tidal counter-currents of equal
strength, resulting in rough wave patterns and white
caps. Checking with the SVG Coast Guard, the only
information I could get from them was the time of the
high and low tides -nothing on currents. So planning
a trip remaine-l ri-' n. aame.
Following a I I II calm waters after Easter
2006, Tanzid Shams, a medical student, and I
planned our first attempt at crossing the channel. We
hired a single-engine boat and operator to accompany
us and set -ff -.rl-- i; tl- ,n-n-;;;, from the Blue
Lagoon. E' ..... I i i.. II untilwe made
it through 1. i ...... ... 11 I ,, i -uddenly found
ourselves facing waves that grew bigger and bigger by
the minute and seemingly became as high as a house.
Not only that, we also saw the "Bequia Bullet" a
landmark detached rock off the northeastern tip of
Bequia -move towards the right instead of the left,
meaning we were in a major and strong tidal counter
current that was carrying us toward Barbados.
Clearly, this current, working against the prevailing
ocean current, was responsible for the size and vigor
of the waves.
After 20 minutes paddling into the waves I knew we
had to turn to starboard and run with the waves to
stay in the channel. But of course that 1 ,. 1, i,
immediate problem of "following seas I .1 i
above, and it took only three or four of these to unbal
ance us and make us both capsize. I had always won
dered how it would feel swimming in big waves in the
open ocean. Now I knew, and I must say it was actu


ally great fun seeing those towering waves move
towards us and bounce myself and the kayak I was
hanging on to up and down.
Our rescue boat came to assist and after some
struggles we both managed to get on board and secure
the kayaks. Heading home, a small crisis came when
the: i ,' ,,. I ... i i he gas tank was
und .1, ... i ..i.... ii. engine started
again and we were none the worse off. My photogra


... ..... .. ... .. ...
...- -- .- .
..... ... -. -: - ._ :" "- .. " . :.. .. -"-

Big and small meeting in the Tobago Cays,
where paddling is at its prime


pher and videographer on board the boat never took a
single shot -all she could do was hold on to the boat
in terror throughout the ordeal. Clearly we were
defeated, but also a good experience richer.
Later that day we crossed the channel on a speedboat
and joined a beach party on Bequia. It turned out that
all day the entire channel was in turmoil with waves and
whitecaps that also gave the ferry passengers a rough
time -definitely not the day for a kayak crossing.


Bequia Channel, Success!
Months later, towards the end of September, I
repeated the crossing attempt. This time I was alone.
Again I engaged a small boat operator to accompany
me. The boat needed to go and fetch some fuel, so I
decided to start off on my own. The waters were rela
tively calm, but after close to an hour of paddling the
waves grew higher and I saw no trace of my accompa
nying boat. As well, I noted that there was again a tidal
current taking me towards Barbados rather than drift
ing me towards Venezuela. Fortunately the powerboat
showed up eventually, and just in time, because the
situation definitely worsened.
The waves building up were nothing compared with
those on our first attempt, but they were still worri
some because 1. .. i 1 ,,, o the east even
tually require 11.., i i, i I ilI with following
seas. S .. ...1. .. unexpectedly crooked wave
got the I i ... ... i capsized, about three quar
ters of the way across the channel. There was no
problem "rescuing" me, emptying the kayak and get
ting me back in. Although conditions continued
somewhat on the rough side, I managed to reach my
destination in good time, entering Admiralty Bay
after about two hours, then having an easy paddle
towards Lower Bay.
A few weeks later, a Vincentian man, Mr. Charles,
and his 14-year-old son crossed the channel in their
two-seater kayak -in both directions and clocking
excellent times. I am told the two-seater longer kayak
may hav( ...i... ...I advantage, not only by being
powered I i I but, being longer, providing
a safer ride in following seas.
I noted that on longer trips, such as the Bequia
Channel -r-7 n. -vind and seas can take their toll in
terms of I... I .,, I electrolyte-loss, leading to dehy
dration. One may not be aware of this problem until it
is too late, since sweating is not noticeable in blowing
winds and during dedicated exercise with constant
need to watch waves and waters. I used a 1.... 1 ... 1 .
with a hose but should have used it ... I
because some leg cramps developed after the trip.
Yes folks, now I know that sea kayaking in the
Grenadines is fun, with endless opportunities for safe
and challenging trips in, around and among these
beautiful islands. I am looking forward to the time
when I will just be one of dozens of kayakers in the
region, and maybe rental business operators will con
tribute significantly to tourism in the area.


~.r GRENADA MARINE












Through the Valley of Desolat


to Dominicas Boiling Lake


by Chris Doyle
I began to think of the hike to Dominica's boiling lake as the almost impossible
trip. At different times I sent a couple of helpers to check it out. My memory is that
they left at the crack of dawn and arrived back around dark, covered in mud and
acting somewhat shell-shocked. Though both reported it was one hell of an inter
testing trip, neither seemed in a rush to do it again. This impressed me probably
more than it should. I also knew two couples that used to speed-walk. They had vis
ited Dominica together and took the hike to the boiling lake -one couple made it
and said it was no big deal; the other couple gave up halfway.
I decided this year was it. I wanted to do this hike before I became so ancient I couldn't.
I was somewhat encouraged by talking to a hiking cruiser in Portsmouth. He
zoomed off one day to hike to the lake for the umpteenth time and said, "Its no big

tr


'How would you like your eggs?' Sea Cat cooks a restorative snack
over a steaming volcanic vent


deal, and it is only an hour and half from the trail head". This did not quite jibe with
what I had seen of other returnees, though this was somewhat explained by a con
versation we had a few days later. He was -i;;. to walk round the north end of the
island, a trail I regard as really pleasant. i. .. he came back I found that he had
not merely walked the trail, but first walked to the trailhead at Capuchin -a six
mile, hilly road. Then, having got to Pennville on the northeast coast, he walked all
the way back right over the top of the mountain. That is out of my league!
Sea Cat had not been to the boiling lake for a few weeks and offered to take me.
We set off from his base in Castle Comfort early and were on the trail at 0650.
As I watched Sea Cat pull on socks and hiking boots, I felt for the first time a lit
tle regret that my only hiking footwear are the sandals I go to town in.
Early in the morning it was cool and pleasant; the day was fine without threat of
rain. We passed Titou Gorge and headed up the trail. The first part was a steady
moderate climb through rainforest. We passed chataigner trees with giant buttress
roots, and Sea Cat pointed out a small gommier (gum) tree, Dacryodes excelsa, of the


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kind used to build pirogues. Some of the white gum was oozing out; this gum is used
to caulk the dugout canoes.
Looking at the map you could see the boiling lake is up in the mountains, so uphill
I expected 1 : Towever, we soon reached a ridge and had to descend quite steeply
through i, i I to the Trois Pitons River. Here we stopped for a grapefruit break
before heading uphill, more steeply this time, on the other side of the valley. The
trees got shorter and more stunted as we approached the top. At one point we had
to cross a narrow ridge between one mountain and the next. I vividly remember
Althea, one of the people who had investigated this trip for me, describing this as a
terrifying narrow path with a precipice on both sides. I could see exactly what she
meant, but did not have to experience it the Forestry Division has cut the ridge
down, making it wide and safe, but you can still see part of the
old ridge which was left as a wall on the south side.
From here it is not too far to the highest point of the trail, where
S an open area has been made so you can enjoy the spectacular
mountain views. This point also houses the equipment that
sends news of earthquakes to Trinidad. From here you can nor
mally see the boiling lake far below. Today we couldn't see it, but
in another way we were lucky; the misty clouds were keeping us
cool. And although they obscured the view to the east, we could
still look way back and see where we had come from.
We now started downhill again, at first on an easy trail, with
great mountain views, and then it got steep, slippery and became
a scramble as we dropped into the Valley of Desolation. Sea Cat
whizzed away off to cook some eggs in a boiling vent; I took my
time. I think one of my hesitations about this hike had been that
I had imagined we would have to hike for miles i. ........
hot red mud, and fumaroles belching copious i, -...
In reality, the Valley of Desolation is a high po... i ., I '1 i ,
interest, but only takes some minutes to walk through. You cross
over a hot river, which has plenty of bathing pools lower down.
Scenery that looks like Dante's Inferno is not my favorite, but it
went up a notch when Sea Cat produced two perfectly soft-boiled
S 1. ;y tasted delicious. As we ate them we saw the steam ris
i. i ... the boiling lake now uphill to the northeast.
It is a steady hike to get there. Finally we emerged on a natural
].1 1 .... .1 1. i. I thelake. Sea C 1. .11 l .1 .. break-
I 1- 1 -i I saltfish and I I I I .... .1 as we
watched the pool and enjoyed moments when the steam cleared
enough see the bubbling water. We thought about the guide who
had lowered himself down on a rope to try and get a camera that
had fallen over. When climbing back up, the rope became so wet
and slippery he slid back down and crashed partly in the lake before
he n..... li .. 1 1 1- ontheside. He was badly burnt and spent months
in h. -i .1 .I .1 11. I.. .1 ,I the stunt team that planned to tightrope right over
th e I .. .... . l
Sea Cat could have II, ,, i .... ... hour and half, but I took two and quarter
hours, and that was i.. I .. 1.1. ... with no rain. (We were back at Titou Gorge
by midday.) The trail has been much improved since earlier crl-- m.l-i- it inifi
cantly easier and less muddy. It is a wonderful hike, varied .. i 1I 1 I I ... -1 one
of the Caribbean's best; I look forward to going again, Nowadays it really is no big
deal, but it is just 1 .. .. ... 1 that it is worth making an effort to keep a steady
pace. Best save the I II,,,. I the return.
I took time on the way back to bathe in one of the natural hot pools in the river.
The water was piping hot and cured my aching calf muscles instantly. I did not feel
them again till near the top. However, I dared not stay in more than a few minutes
lest I became too enervated and dehydrated to move. On the other hand Titou
Gorge's cold water at the end of the hike is perfect. Titou Gorge is a slot canyon with
water in the bottom. You swim back a couple of hundred yards as it winds itself into
various shapely chambers. Way above, the sunlight filt( i. ...I. i. I.ees and
down the narrow, sheer walls. At the head is a crashing .1I .11 -. .- under
neath sets you up for the rest of the day.


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I'm beginning to lose track here so let's recap.
First, there's the REAL WORLD. That's the place where I order the crucial can't
move-without-them boat parts and they take six weeks to arrive with the hurricane
season breathing down my neck and the manufacturer ships th- ---. Furts. This
is the world where .; 1 ... I will eventually die, as in, I ,
Then there's the 'I i I Il I find it difficult to believe that this one exists,
but it does. Here I can spend a reasonable amount and get a Swan 54, brand new,
straight out of the box. The fact that I have paid REAL WORLD MONEY for some-
thing that only exists on a computer screen leaves me a tad perplexed. However,
here I can also get new body bits, including the perky tits I wasn't issued with, and
I need never die. .' a


Somewhere in i. I ,i.i.., .le between the REAL WORLD and the VIRTUAL
WORLD there is i i i i
In Ocean World I paid for some of the things that I normally find for free, but it is
tangible stuff with a different twist.
To enter Ocean World, a marina resort in the Dominican Republic, the tourist
coaches drive through a symbolic curtain of water; I was walking, so it was remi
niscent of getting caught in a tropical downpour in the dinghy. As I was already wet
I decided to go snorkelling on the artificial reef in an aquarium guaranteed no jel
lyfish. I stopped to wave at the people sitting and watching me through the glass as


As a day-tripper, Julia found that the best place to view the marina was from the
elegant cocktail lounge on the fourth floor of the casino


tiere 5s frooJor Iu J' outs Lo sup utUo tIle UtltlruCTIct Iepu0uc s
nautical alternative reality

I swam round and round. Sometimes in 11. ...-...... ,1 i ,1 1 ..- ...h we are
living in a goldfish bowl but this was the .I. .. .... i .1 .i ii .... -. I fought
down the urge to do an underwater moony because it was too early in the day to get
kicked out.
The sea lions were fun and novel; I don't get to see many of those in these waters.
And the audience watching the sharks being hand-fed and having their bellies tick
led was a hoot.
It was time for a break so I sprawled out on the artificial beach after walking
through the acres of the largest captive dolphin facility in the world (the Real World).
I don't know how you feel about captive dolphin facilities. Are we domesticating a
species or enslaving it? Whether we should be doing either seems to be a moot point:
it is being done. I have to admit that when --;t-.i;n th- face of a severely impaired
child light up -- ;-; tr-l-i;n -aptive, I feel 1.11 ..i I ... when I read about armed
dolphins escal ,, .11 i.. ..... At least Ocean World's dolphins have a better deal
than those guarding the Hood Canal, home of the West Coast Trident submarine base
(which is believed to contain a large stockpile of nuclear weapons) in 40F water.
I gave the '. .... - 11, e was no way I could find to justify having tigers caged
somewhere i.i .. .1 1 Instead, I visited what I had really come to see: the
brand new marina. The best place to view it from is the very elegant, cream-and
chrome cocktail lounge on the fourth floor of the casino. From way up there I could
see a nasty little swell rounding the breakwater from the natural deepwater chan
nel. The moored vessels were all on long lines and strung well away from the con-
crete pontoons. The ocean was a glistening, gentle turquoise. What were the condi
tions like when there was a sea running, I wondered?
Situated between Florida and Puerto Rico with 104 slips covering 34 acres, Ocean
World can accommodate yachts up to 200 feet. With the ability to pump fuel at 60
gallons a minute, this should be a Real World-class marina. The entrance is a well
marked, deep channel and inside there is a 12-foot controlling depth. On shore there
are smart conference facilities, a chandlery, a gym, a dive and fishing shop, taxis and
car hire. A supermarket and boutiques are in the pipeline. There is also a private
helicopter pad on site and the nearest golf course is just 15 minutes away.
But what happens on the water in bad weather? I found out the answer to this
question by asking the captains of the vessels already there. They go back to the
Real World, up the coast to Luperon, the hurricane hole I wrote about in the April
issue of Compass. To the tipico fishing harbour where the fishermen still throw their
nets and row out at first light.
What will be well used at Ocean World, I believe, are the 200 dry-storage racks tak
ing boats up to 35 feet, and tI .. ii ,,, facility... when it is safe to go alongside.
Just outside Ocean World I 11 i I a beer in a little bar shaded by sea grape
trees and watched the tourist coaches leaving. Then T -. 1 across the perfect white
S... li . ... i .. i...' waves breaking over the: I ... i ...1.1 that perhaps it
S I i i I. Ocean World by my world, the 1 i I WORLD, which
we don't all have equal access to. And did I really want all those tourists and mega
yachts in my world?


-1l



Marine Survey throughout the Caribbean

PURCHASE INSURANCE DAMAGE

Bob Goodchild
Accredited Marine Surveyor

Society of Accredited Marine Surveyors
RYA Ocean Yachtmaster (Commercial)
Accreditation American Boat and Yacht Council

Tel: Grenada (+1 473) 407 4388
surveyor@flyingfishventures.com


Planning to keep


your boat in

the Caribbean?


www.islandreamsgrenada.com


Dolly's Answer


1. H A P 0 O
2. F I S P -T
3. s P s C I E
4. H A B I A T
5. Y C A T C H
6. B I U E IF I N
7.R E L EA S


SPECIAL WORD: LOBSTER







uch has been said about the robberies and
the shortages and the less-than-serene
streets and the local murders (all "settling of
accounts"), not to mention the efforts of a political
leader to create a not-so-quiet revolution in his pas
sionate quest for socialismo criollo.
Many cruisers are afraid to come here. Others ask
tentatively, "What is it like?"
I guess that, all over the world, people muddle
through, survive or even prosper in conditions that
would discourage the faint of heart.


Climate
It was snowing in Ottawa on Easter and for a few
weeks afterward. What can I say?
Pool at Bahia Redonda
The perceptive may suspect that I am a closet hedo
nist. When boat chores become too overwhelming,
when chaos reigns, I hie me to the pool. On a good day
(not during Semana Santa) I have it all to myself
Laundry
I believe Chris Doyle said it first: the lavanderia at
Bahia Redonda is definitely the best bargain in the


twefve GQoovC i6nos





by Heather Bacon


We first set up temporary abode in Puerto La Cruz
(PLC), Venezuela, without previous intention, in 1998
when our boat developed serious osmosis. As velaris
tas, we lived here for eight months then and I even got
a job teaching English in a small language school. I
worked on my Spanish, learned to cook a few local
dishes and tried hard to psychh out" the mentality of a
society that had been confused by drastic changes in
status due to the sudden drop in oil prices.
Eight years later we returned to the real starting
point of our circumnavigation and left Argonauta I in
PLC during the 2006 hurricane season. My husband,
Hugh, had been impressed by the workmanship of the
crew who resurrected the boat from a bubbled fate and
also -. '1 -- .t faith in the security of the boatyard
(P/C/ I, ') i ere we left Argonauta I up on the hard.
After nine months in Canada, once again we came
be. i I I i 1i ,i ,. .1 I i. i .. ..... ..tention to be
a i 11 .' ... I ,,, .... oratleasta
"fly-in wife", I accompanied my skipper, mainly because
the hefty amount of luggage we carried to Das Boot
would incur more excess baggage costs than my fanta
sized rental in New York. Just call me "baggage mule"!
Of course I entered gamely into the social milieu, try
ing to resurrect my rusty Spani'h -til-i:}1-:i. ti-.
quick and stimulating rapport I, I .... I i.. .. I -
that gets us through the day and trying once again to
learn a bit about the society of present-day Venezuela.
I will not go into detail about the information I pick
up from daily newspapers and TV, nor repeat the
hearsay and insider information about "the why and
the wherefore". Maybe someday it will be a sociologi
cal thesis. (They give scholarships to anciandos now).
But in loyalty to a country where I have now spent a
fair amount of time, I would like to list some good
things about Venezuela.
Medical/Dental Care and Medications
A great many cruisers, particularly Americans,
choose to have surgery here, attracted by the expert
medical care and very thorough diagnostic proce
dures. This is in private clinics but the cost is very
modest, attention rapid and care compassionate.
Dentists, too are excellent and their fee far lower than
in my country (Canada), where dental plans have
made fees unaffordable for those without insurance.
Much has been written about the laser treatment
which has given a new view of life to world-weary eyes.
Pharmacy items are amazingly cheap.


- i .
-
-- - _

--_ _,- ;--
Caribbean. Perhaps some readers remember my boat
laundry article in the December 2005 issue of
Compass. Tahiti took the cake at $75 for a modest
load. Estrellita at Bahia Redonda charges 8,000
Bolivars a load: approximately $2.50. It comes back
pressed, smelling lovely, and sometimes even mended.
Unfortunately one day, I overheard a cruiser of a dif
ferent geographical persuasion --ri-linin.- because
i. 11 ...1.1 the price quoted had .. i 1 1 hisvast
.... .... i dirty clothing, not per load, and "sixteen
thousand" sounded expensive!
Dock Staff at Bahia Redonda
I will never overcome my dock phobia. I seize up at
that particular four-letter word. But each time we have
come into Bahia Redonda we have been met by Potter
and crew, guided to a spot (usually of our own choos
ing) and tied up with expertise in a M( ....... ..
action. Cruisers are also quick to help ..I ..
We are in the land of cruiser camaraderie.
TMO Expertise and Security
It was PMO, then CMO now TMO. Nevertheless we
have had very satisfactory relations with "entro"
Marino Oriente: they handled our osmosis problem
well' .. .... and this time we have had excellent
servi I ,, i, ... ex-pats and locals employed there.
General Expertise of Well-Chosen Technicians
Networking is so important. Hugh specializes in it.
With the advice of trusted contacts he has managed to


find only skilled experts to work on our boat. I cite
Angel, who lives up to his name. He performed mira
cles on electrical equipment that we i' 1.i ... .. .1
state. Linda, the Dinghy Doctor, i- i ..
Hugh had been about to buy another Caribe dinghy, a
bargain here compared to other countries, but $1,000
plus nevertheless. But wonderful Linda found the
minuscule leak, patched it up at reasonable price and
gave us another ten years of shore trips!
Por Puestos
Woman doth not live by boat work alone. I love a
break and I go downtown by por puesto, the commu-
nal taxi that I still believe is safe. (And it costs only
1,000 Bolivars, compared to 10,000 for the taxi which
I take back when laden with purchases.)
Batidos
Kiosks on the street have a row of blenders and a
selection of fruits: strawberries, watermelon, can
taloupe, guava, banana (cambur in Venezuela). For
2,000 Bolivars you get a fresh drink of blended fruit,
water and sugar. (You can cut the amount of sugar if
you are philosophically opposed.) It is refreshing and
delicious and I have faith that the water is pure.
Designer Butcher Shops
Grocery shopping can be time-consuming and frus
treating since there have been a series of imposed
shortages. (I am not a political animal so I will not
elaborate.) When you see chicken, you stockpile. Ditto
for sugar, flour, .. .. 1 11. 1 .
Ienjoyvisiting I -.... i i. -i. I wherelam
invited to sit down in a chair at the counter, some
times offered a coffee. It is rumoured that a long-term
customer might be offered a beer. They bring out the
major portion of the animal chosen and cut it accord
ing to your desires. Yachties recommend lomito: filet of
beef. You must purchase the entire piece but then it is
cut to your specifications. I chose quite a hefty one as
we will be four on our:. t ... T: ;-i.;led of all fat
and gristle, it cost abo..i ** I ... i.... buy one at
Costco in Canada for $90.
At one point I got really confused about my zeros:
"That can't cost so little -maybe I am spending $600
on meat!" But with the assistance of my taxi driver (the
enthusiastic Leo) and the honesty of the cashier I left
the store with 30 dinners for four at a cost of about
$80. That included a chateaubriand!
Merida
A perennial inland getaway favourite among cruis
ers, this university town high in the Andes mountains
: i 1., i ,., I is lovely to be cool again after the
i i -1 I1. Town is clean and attractive with
S-.t ;-:t -;;;.t: charming posad,- fI-t 1 ;;I
I 1. .. 1 i Theviewsfrom I. II
car are spectacular.
Los Llanos
Our visit to this ranchero area of Venezuela was one
of our most memorable nature excursions. We saw
animals and birds we had never heard of before: the
little capybara, a cross between a guinea pig and a
Shetland pony and the world's largest living rodent;
baby jabirus (storks) in their nest; the anaconda and
piranha. It is beautiful country, worth exploring to see
the variety of scenery and atmosphere.
What will Venezuela's future hold? Winds of
change prevail. But in our short time here we have
met ex-pats with heavy investments in condo apart
ments, resorts and businesses serving the cruiser
market. We have got to know ambitious local people
who work hard and are still optimistic about suc
cess. For their sake and for the vast potential this
-r=n round offers, we sincerely hope that the
i ..i .11 be bright.

At time of writing the "informal" (mercado negro)
exchange rate was about 3,000 Bolivars to the US dollar.





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YACHT SERVICES
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Providing all vital
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for Trans-Atlantic Yachts
Electronics, Chandlery, Rigging
Bunkered Fuel (+10,0001t)
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DECK VIEW FROM TI KANOT BY CHRIS DOYLE














If you asked a visitor about 30 years ago what they associated with Bequia, it
would probably have had to do with boats and seafaring. I am sure over the years
Bequia has meant many things to many visitors -ranging from model boats, to the
Easter Regatta, to the Thursday-night jump up at the Frangi. I suspect if you asked
more recent visitors, many of them would reply "turtles".
This is i' I .... I i e non-profit Old Hegg Turtle Sanctuary, founded and looked
after by C. I .. I i., ," King. It is amazing that one man's idea should have such
a great impact in so many ways. Brother King, a retired fisherman, decided to give
back something to the world, and in doing so, he kept himself close to the sea and
the creatures that were much of his life. Brother I. i i..i I .. i
(all species of sea turtle in the Caribbean are on I.. ,, i .,. , I
He also knew that the survival rate for hatchling turtles is exceedingly low. It has
often been estimated that only about five percent of eggs reach maturity as turtles.
I have seen this for myself; I was once on a beach in the Galapagos Islands when
the sand erupted and a big cluster of hatchling turtles emerged and headed for the
sea. There was something wrong with i' 1 .. i.... i., ,nerg I ... I i. Il stead
of at night. I would estimate that nor. i 1 ... .. i .... I . birds
swooped down and grabbed them as soon as they started swimming. The birds
would have taken them right off the beach, but tourists were running up and down
chasing the birds to try and save the baby turtles; an amusing spectacle, but a futile
endeavor in this case.

tfr- tu'x Tz-r


Brother King's 'raise and release' program has raised public awareness -as well
as hundreds of sea turtles
But, Brother King figured, if you can locate the eggs, collect the baby turtles, and
then look after them till they are about two years old, they will have passed their
mot -;;- .1-1- .t- ., 1 1- more likely to live long enough to reproduce.
TI..- -1. I -I ,.... turtle and tortoise populations is not new. I first came
across it in the '' .1 -. 1.- e introduced rats are so effective at eat:,,. 1,
and the ---a;; -I .' I - that all species would be approaching I. ..
it were :. I 11. work of the scientists at the Darwin Research Station. They visit
the islands, bring back the eggs and keep the baby tortoises till they are about two
years old and "rat proof', at which point they are returned to the island they were
taken from.
I saw a turtle-rearing station, much like the one Brother King has in Bequia, when
I was in Los Roques in Venezuela about 15 years ago. They also apparently do the
same thing in Cuba. Brother King told me that in Cuba they have been keeping
records and know now that the young hatched this way do return and lay eggs.
Starting up was not easy. Brother King had to start with his own resources until
he began to have something to show. Then he managed to get at least a little help
from various well-wishers, including two checks from the Government of St. Vincent
& the Grenadines. And it has gone on this way: Brother dedicates himself to the
project and has somehow managed to keep it going with what help he can get.
Rearing turtles is not easy either. You have to deal with fungal infections, and
because of the close quarters they tend to chew on each other, causing wounds.
While there is some information out there, turtle-raisers are a pretty rare bunch, so
we are far from being able to buy a "Turtles for Dummies" book; a lot is done by intu
ition and luck. And Brother King's guesses and luck have been good; he has released
many hundreds of turtles, and when the present bunch leave it will have been more
than a thousand of different kinds -a significant contribution the well-being of an
endangered group.
Apart from helping with the turtle population, the Old Hegg Sanctuary has had a
big effect in two other ways. It has been a wonderful educational opportunity for all
those in Bequia, but particularly the kids, to come learn about turtles and to see
them at close quarters and to appreciate what beautiful creatures they are.
The second way is perhaps more unexpected, but the Old Hegg Turtle Sanctuary
is probably now Bequia's most famous visitor attraction. It is, after all, the only one
of its kind in the Eastern Caribbean. Its location at the end of the road makes it a
good fare for the taxi drivers, and they know that if nothing else, a visitor is likely to
take a cab to see the turtles. It is also a great inducement to get people to take a
ride: "You haven't yet seen our wonderful turtle sanctuary?" It is a hard invitation
to refuse. No wonder so many visitors now think of Bequia as the "Turtle Island".


VIRGIN GORDA YACHT HARBOUR

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Mlrn n.i Full Service Marina Facility


















Our facility located in the heart of beautiful Virgin Gorda comprises
a 111-slip marina and a boatyard with 12 acres of dry storage space
offering insurance approved hurricane pits to secure your vessel
during hurricane season.
Onsite amenities and services include a bank/ATM, a supermarket,
chandlery, restaurant, bakery, clothing store, dive shop, phone and
fax facilities, free wireless internet access, fuel, water and ice,
laundry facilities, and an office of the BVI Tourist Board all in
a pristine and relaxing environment BVI Customs and immigration
located within convenient walking distance.
Tel: 284 495-5500 Fax: 284 495-5706
284 495-5318 284 495-5685
Web: www.vgmarina.biz
VHF Ch: 16






IT'S MUCH MORE
THAN A MARINA: IT'S HOME!

-r .


Over and over again our guests refer to our marina as their "Home"!
Join us this summer and continue to enjoy the hospitality.

WE OFFER:
S24 hour security
120 concrete slip berths
SElectricity: 220V/ 50amp; 110V/300amps
(single phase and three phase)
16ft channel
Fuel dock and bunkering
SFree satellite TV at each slip
STelephone hook-up
Shower facilities
SWireless internet, banks and laundry within the complex
Pick-up and drop-off from major supermarkets
We monitor VHF channels 16 & 79A (alpha American system)
P.O. Box 4540, Airport Road, Sint Maarten, N.A., Caribbean
Tel: 599-5442309 Fax: 599-5443378
Visit our website: www.sbmarina.biz E-mail: reservations@sbmarina.biz














MRS. CHEAP-DEAR



by Glyn Johnson


Some years ago in England we had a friend who
maintained that buying anything "on the cheap"
would generally result in a price to be paid at a later
date and called such purchases "cheap-dear". I was
reminded of her wisdom recently when several pur
chases and projects which I had regarded as "cheap"
turned out to have their own price to pay.


Like many cruisers we live on a fairly modest
income and in order to make the best use of our
resources we need to be careful how we spend our
money. We look for the best buys or deals as budget
conscious cruisers, but "cheap" is not a word I would
normally use.
We were in Trinidad last year with a long refit list and
limited funds. We had renewed our liferaft after the old
one failed its test, but the new one was more compact
and too small for our :t--- chocks. Browsing around
the boatyard one day i .... i a discarded stainless lifer
aft holder with a broken fastening. It was too big for our
canister but with a few cuts and joins it could easily be
adapted to fit the bill. I did all the measuring and cut it
to the new size and took it to a welding shop to be put
back together. They fabricated a new section to fasten
over the top to take a padlock and we were all fixed -or
were we? Some of the welding wasn't that good and
although it fit, it didn't really support the canister very
well with chafe points on the comers. The crunch came
with the price of US$350, because when I checked the


SI I. 1 '.i- -- .t.1 the proper cradle was listed at
-- I I I .. l. ap-dear project
You would think that once bitten we could avoid
such things, but the problem is that they sneak up on
you in different ways. We wer- h-.-l. north up the
island chain towards the L- I .". I thinking that
might be a good place to get some of our boat parts


Left: Our scavenged and
re-sized Uferaft holder
ultimately cost more than
the brand name unit
Should have





Right: Friends shipped us a
'new' barbecue from the
States, which arrived
.. covered in burnt meat juices!
We found we could have
bought one for the same
price -minus shipping
costs -at Budget Marine


shipped in. We met up with some good cruising friends
who, when they heard our plans, volunteered to get
anything we wanted as they wer- r-ht;;7r-;-i; th
States and then would be in the L i .1 .i ii ....
time as us. Best of all they had a Port Supply account
and could get some things a little cheaper!
We gave them our list, which included a new barbe
cue and an electric davit winch to hoist our dinghy.
We had already checked the internet and found we
could source the davit winch at US$178 compared to
the West Marine price of US$277. It was not too much
of a surprise when the Port Supply price was still $60
above the price we had seen, so we decide I i ii .
ourselves. The other items our friends i i i
us. The only problem was that the barbecue was too
big to carry, so had to be shipped at a cost of $38. The
real rub came when it arrived. We opened the pack
age just before leaving the USVI to find the "new" bar
becue grill was covered in burnt meat juices which
had dripped down onto the burner plate! What can
you do? Shipping it back is very expensive and we


were leaving for St. Maarten that day in any case. We
didn't tell our friends, as we didn't want them to feel
bad; it wasn't their fault.
With the wonderful gift ol 1i", I-., re realized we
could have bought the barl I 11. same as the
Port Supply price at Budget Marine in St. Maarten,
saved the shipping cost and had somewhere to com-
plain or return it if we discovered it wasn't how we
expected it to be. Definitely another one of Mrs.
Cheap Dear buys.
What about the electric davit winch? Well, you can
guess that was another financial disaster. I telephoned
the company and ordered one, but they couldn't give
me shipping details at the time. They eventually e
mailed to say it would be US$150 post and packing.
There was worse to come, as four weeks later we still
hadn't received it and had hoped to leave St. Maarten
to head back down the island chain. They told me it


was back-ordered with the manufacturer and due to
arrive shortly. Eventually they decided it was no
longer available, so in this case we were saved from
adding it to the list of cheap-dear buys, except I would
still like to get one.
We have been fortunate that most of our cheap dear
mistakes have been small ones. The most dangerous
project of all is that "cheap" boat. The reason second
hand boats generally cost a lot less than equivalent
new models is the disproportionate cost of repairs and
refurbishment once you have work done away from
the highly efficient production line. Simple jobs take
on a whole new prospect in the cramped and confined
conditions found on most boats. Refurbishing an old
boat, where every job is a bespoke custom one, can
easily cost much more than a brand-new boat, unless
you are able to do everything yourself. Even then, if
you cost out your time you may find you are working
for just a couple of dollars an hour.

a .. .. .. .. , . h '


',: k L- .
S* .*

4! .' -

'- r.*. v mt
.< ~ jj ^ *:--"^ 3< ^ B t


peters
& may

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OVERBOARD


by Dick McClary

Sailors are risk-takers by nature. We all know the sea doesn't take prisoners. It's a dodgy place to be and,
after all, we don't have to be there. But we manage the risks I 1.... them where we can and mitigating their
effect where we can't. Or so we should. But, now and again, ... i ..- do something inexcusably stupid and if
we're really lucky, get away with it. Like I did.
We, Mary and I that is, had just left the anchorage in Prince Rupert Bay, Dominica, and were "--l;;r f-r .
overnight anchorage some ten nautical miles south. From there we planned to depart for Martiniqu. 11 I
day. As it was such a short passage, and dinner ashore at the Castaways Hotel was on the cards, we were towing
the inflatable dinghy astern. Oars had been stowed below and the outboard clamped to the bracket on the star
board-quarter rail. I had hoisted the single-reefed main and the hanked-on staysail, both of which are done at the
mast on our yacht, Alacazam. Mary --- .t--ri;n; -;;r- t- clear the headland. On my return to the cockpit, Mary
handed over the helm to me and we. I I .11 .. i.... out that I had forgotten to remove the fibreglass seat
from the Avon dinghy. Normally my next task would be to unfurl the yankee, but as we were already broad-reach
ing at over six knots in the brisk northeasterly trades, I thought I'd better first do something about the dinghy
seat, which I didn't want to lose. After setting the Autohelm, I hauled in on the painter and got the dinghy up to
the transom, but there was no way I could reach the seat.
I cringe with embarrassment at what I did next.
I got into the dinghy -or rather I commenced the process. Standing on Alacazam's bathing platform and
hanging on to the quarter rail with one hand, I pulled the dinghy up close with the other and put one foot in it.
Letting go of the quarter rail, I attempted to put the other foot in. Predictably, the painter extended to its full five
metre length at a speed over six knots -which takes about a second and a half. The dinghy flipped, as did I, and
I found myself being towed astern semi-submersed, but still hanging on grimly to the painter -a reflex action
which probably saved my life.
These days the McClary form doesn't have a lot going for it in terms of hydrodynamic efficiency, so the load
on my arms was considerable, and it was hurting. Letting go would have provided welcome relief until I drowned,
which, after an immediate beating-up by the pursuing dinghy and in the one-metre chop, would have been a fair
ly prompt event.
My spirits were lifted briefly by the unseen activity of a playful mermaid who dragged my shorts to my ankles
and beyond. Depressingly, this came to nothing: the mermaid, apparently unimpressed, having swum on. I liked
those shorts; we'd been through a lot together.
I ...... ..... i.. T had gone below for an undisclosed purpose depressed me still further. "Oh no; please
don't 11, .I- i i, ...1.1 aning that this would do little to improve my day.
I',, I ,1'I 1 h,,,g
"MARY!"
"Yes dear?" My concerns were unfounded -she was at the chart table.
"I'm in a spot of bother."
"Where are you?"
"Over the ******* transom!"
"What are you doing there?" Don't people say the daftest things at times?
"******* drowning! Bring the boat up into the wind and stop her!"
Centripetal acceleration during the ensuing: i i i i ... .. i . .... .. ... i i
ered my sagging morale by a similar amount, but .1 ... i. .. I I 111 .. I I ,I I
Alacazam's boarding ladder folds up against the port quarter rail and is lashed securely there when not in use.
A fishing-rod holder is also clamped to this quarter rail through the rungs of the boarding ladder, and had a trolling
rod in it rigged ready :- 1. .. ot further offshore. The lure was secured in a plastic tube and the rod secured
to the boat by a lanya. I .11 I i.. I conspired to prevent Mary from quickly releasing 1, i ., i,,,. i II VIy bel
lowed instructions as to how to sort this out were probably a bit garbled, and didn't he i i
Mary shouted, "Hang on!" and disappeared below again. Fortified by such sound advice, I continued to do so.
At this point Alacazam set off again at a fair clip, giving me an unwelcome opportunity to relive the whole
nightmare. I was now pretty exhausted and was 1 ...; ... 1 .1 .i i 1 ...; to the probability of a happy
ending. Mary reappeared in the cockpit armed "11 I .' I - I.' I' I '"e wondering if she'd remem
bered a beneficial clause in some insurance policy. She didn't cut me adrift though, but pointed Alacazam into the
wind again to my considerable relief. She then attacked the fishing line with the scissors, heaved the rod into the
cockpit and released the boarding ladder, which I deftly avoided as it arrived with a crash alongside my head. I
was a bit miffed at the callous disregard shown to my fishing equipment, but it didn't seem appropriate to say any
thing at the time.
I barely had the strength to climb the ladder, but eventually the naked and very shaken McClary arrived safe
ly in the cockpit. There was some discussion as to the loss of my shorts, which I had to put down to fluid mechan
ics and drag coefficients, as I didn't think she'd believe me about the r. -.... I 1 i i I ...... .. ... various restore
tive I ..-... i .. ... . i. 1 i. .1.... ien pallor was tempora.- . . .. 1 l i i i I empha
siseci i I .i I I,. .. . II i .. to mindless stupidity, of which there i i .... i difficult
to refute.
The rest of the trip passed without incident and we arrived safely at the Castaways Hotel anchorage. We got
the dinghy the right way up -the seat was still there. The restaurant was closed. Oh well....


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i. ..... i I rween Caribbean islands with a favorable tide will make your
. m fortable. The table below, courtesy Don Street author of
i ...i "i i ,- of Imray -olaire charts, which shows the time of the meridian
I. . 1 lie moon for this and next month, will help you calculate the tides.
i .I generally tries to run toward the moon. Th ii i .. .....
the east soon after moonrise, continues to run east until about i ..i .I. ..
reaches its zenith (see TIME below) and then runs we I I ..... I .11 i.....
.. I I, ii i nadir, the tide runs eastward; i I,, i i I I
.11 I ,i.. I, I 1 runs I 1 Ti.. . i . local.
i .... ........ tide is I .ii , ii. w and full m oons.
For nore information, see ', .. ... .. i e back of all Imray Iolaire charts.
Fair tides!
June 2007 21 1727 10 0805
DATE TIME 22 1806 11 0904
1 0000 (full) 23 1846 12 1007
2 0045 24 1926 13 1109 (new)
3 0140 25 2009 14 1209
4 0235 26 2055 15 1303
5 0329 27 2145 16 1353
6 0420 28 2238 17 1439
7 0508 29 2333 18 1521
8 0556 30 0000 (full) 19 1602
9 0643 20 1641
10 0731 July 2007 21 1722
11 0822 DATE TIME 22 1804
12 0916 1 0029 23 1848
13 1016 2 0124 24 1936
14 1119 (new) 3 0216 25 2027
15 1223 4 0306 26 2122
16 1325 5 0354 27 2218
17 1423 6 0441 28 2314
18 1515 7 0528 29 0000 (full)
19 1602 8 0617 30 0008
20 1646 9 0707 31 0100


Can I Come



Sailing With You?


by Angelika Gruener

It all began with an enthusiastic e-mail we received. Somebody totally unknown to
us but wanting to sail in the Caribbean picked our address from our sailing club's list.
Mike, as we shall call him, had just finished school and now wanted to go sailing.
When he sent the e-mail, in fact, he had already booked his flight and he expected to
be welcomed aboard many boats in the following year before resuming his studies.
At that time our boat was on the hard for major repairs. The mast was down, the
cockpit cut open; the engine room needed a complete refit, paint jobs everywhere.
There was not even a thought I ..1.... 1 red to let Mike stay at least a few
days with us, while he looked *..... i .... 1, boat.
Countless e-mails went back and forth. He was thrilled to be welcomed by us and
agreed, and offered, to help us with our boat projects. I thought back to my own
youth when I was happy to be t ...1. ... i..... bout boat maintenance, and every
thing that had to do with saili.., I I a young boy, keen to learn about
boats, maintenance, and sailing. Our son Angelus had just left Angelos for a couple
of weeks for a job as dive instructor, so Mike could slip into Angelus' space.
One hour work -one hour sailing! This is the arrangement we had proposed to Mike.
And then Mike was standing with his backpack in front of Angelos. After a sturdy
breakfast we went around the boatyard with hi... i..... ...I sted him, not the
different sailing boats or the many powerboats, 1 I I ... -1 high in a shed.
It turned out that Mike had never before left his home country. Now he had made
this big jump across the ocean into a completely new world. Many things here are
very different than in Europe, so we thought it all must be extremely interesting to
him. But no; he didn't notice the pelicans, did not want to go for a swim, did not
want to explore the tremendous marine and bird life of the mangrove lagoon, and
wasn't interested in the concert of whistling frogs in the evening either. But he did
show a great interest in dinner.
The next morning I asked on the radio if someone would take Mike for a sail for a
couple of days. There was no response. One guy said a girl would have a better
chance to be taken up by the single-handers. A second voice asked how much he
would pay.
After breakfast Mike decided to go to town to visit the Internet. We gave him some
money and asked him to bring home three T-bone steaks for a barbecue in the
evening. Mike had even volunteered to make the fire.
It was already dark when he turned up, in company of a newly made and drunk
en friend. Instead of three T bones he had an enormous amount of paper thin
steaks. Finally, after an hour of chat with this Willy, Mike, dressed in long pants and
a long-sleeved sweater for fear of mosquitoes, began the fire, a task with which he





"If you do not want to work,

then you do not see the work"





was clearly unaccustomed. He tried hard to keep the fire going by swinging a paper
back rigorously but without success. He was sweating like hell, and pulled off his
sweater to throw it beside the wannabe-fire. The night-watch guards from the yard
could not look at that useless business any longer and came along with some fuel
to show Mike how a barbecue-fire is started. Within ten minutes the watchmen had
a bright burning fire.
Meanwhile it was already 9:OOPM. The thin steaks were quickly done, and now we
knew why Mike brought that amount of meat. It was his new friend Willy who had
recommended the quality and quantity of the meat. Mike invited Willy, and of
course, two of the watchmen who helped him to make the fire invited themselves as
well. Instead of a dinner for three, it had to be shared between six people, all squeeze
ing into Angelos' meagre space, tools and parts laying everywhere, the cockpit non
existent. Mike was oblivious to all this, but no problem, there at least was some meat
still left.
Next day Mike found out that his sweater had been burned in the barbecue the
night before. We gave him the task of painting our already-primed small fire extin
guisher. After this job he disappeared into town for Internet. When he came back in
the late afternoon he sat down on a log about 30 metres from us and watched us do
our work for at least one hour. Then he strolled up.
We asked him to wash our ropes from the mizzen, and handed him a bucket with
soapy water and a brush. Of course they were dirty. Mike asked if the ropes had ever
been washed before. Yes, ropes get washed every year on Angelos. This also was not a
job for our visitor; he scrubbed the ropes but did not rinse them. He left this job for me.
But his own clothes he washed with our washing powder, and he rinsed them properly.
For dinner I planned to use the leftover steaks from day before. When I went into
the galley there were no more steaks. Mike had shovelled them in for lunch before
he left for town. No problem, we had plain rice with some veggies.
The fourth day Mike disappeared again into town for Internet! Maybe life in the
yard was too boring. He was completely uninterested in the slightest thing. In his e
mails to us he had written that he was willing to help us to get the boat ready. And
we thought we could test whether we could live with him and eventually take him
out sailing for the few months before the end of his holidays. But we had heaps of
work to do. Even people who are not used to boat maintenance could help, by cook
ing a meal, washing dishes, cleaning parts, by asking what to do, looking and learn
ing. But if you do not want to work, then you do not see the work.
Continued on next page







Continued from previous page
This day Mike turned up again in the afternoon asking what we would have for
dinner. When the work crows over your head you do not think a lot about fancy food,
do you? When I looked for Mike to give him some work orders he was lying bored in
the cool salon, headphones in his ears, listening to his favourite music, waiting for
dinner. This rascal made a fool of us, while we were so busy we didn't know where
to begin. It seemed he never got the message: no work, no food.
Next day Mike came back from the Internet in town completely depressed. It did
not get into his head that everything in Venezuela is different from home in
Germany. The streets have yellow stripes, the people have a dark skin, they speak
another language, on the houses he can see the tiles, the music is loud, the cars
worn out -all that annoyed him. He definitely was homesick.
After five days we kicked Mike out of Angelos. He showed no will to help, wanted
always to be served; in short, we had more work with him than without him. He took
his rucksack. We said good-bye. When he left the boatyard he did not turn around for
a last wave. We never received another e-: I . i. ... ...I i. .. I I.,i
One year later a man we had known .I .. i I i .
us if he could come sailing with us for a few months. He wanted to escape from his
family after Christmas. By that time, he said, we should be done with our boat main
tenance. And he preferred that we not spend too much time in any one anchorage,
as he actually wanted to go sailing. We declined, for various reasons. And because
we do h.--- 1- n-T-ri;n; =t--= we gave him the address of a friend, sailing
single-b .* i i i .. i... .-,i i. .1 that time, who sometimes took friends.
A short time later, we received word from Fred that our sailing friend in Honduras
wanted money, 200 .,. i i i 1.. i ... ...... is expenditures would come
to 1000 Eurosper r ..I II I I I -1 i 11. I..1 it would be very expensive,
and he could not aff I .i ..- I iII ...- i mattress and dishes just
fied this cost. In Fred's opinion, a visitor on a yacht does not cause so much addi
tional trouble as to justify that amount of money. Fred saw himself not as a charter
guest, but as useful company.
Most of us work hard to afford our boats and our life out at sea. We need lots of
skills, effort and patience to maintain our floating homes. We spend hours, days,
and weeks to keep the boat in good shape. Don't get me wrong, we love our way of
life, we accept our work, no matter that it is often hard work. But some people have
the idea they just can step onto our boats 1....1 .... that WE are in urgent need of
THEM and they can say, "Now I'm here, let'
They do not want to be "hands on", they do not want to pay the minimum, they
just expect to sit in the shade on the yacht holding a cool drink with rattling ice
cubes, awaiting dinner service, impatient that we are staying longer in a place than
they think is necessary. And they ask if using our mattresses is worth the money
they are asked to pay!
None of us, whether single-handed, couple or family, need help to run our boats
or company to entertain us. If WE INVITE somebody they can stay for free as friends.
But remember, friends on boats are like fish: if the fish stays too long it starts to
smell. If others INVITE THEMSELVES, they have to pay, and they will get served. In
cases where we need crew or workers we hire them and we pay them, so that we can
tell them what to do. There is nothing else between.
When there is work to do, usually when the boat is on the hard, when it is dusty
and hot, there is never anyone coming along to ask if he can help you, expecting in
the e, ..1.... . .. 11. people always lazily creep around the mari
nas i i I I- I .11 I logo to sea. Throughout our 18years of sail
ing, ,i i .- . .... 1I II1 boat is ready, hanging on the travel lift, or
it is certain from the season that the boat must be ready, you surely will get asked,
"Can I come sailing with you?" Not on Angelos! Because for one hour sailing -one
hour work!


Continued from page 6 Info & Updates
Who Ya Gonna Call?
There are still Good Samaritans in this world. Water taxi operator Winston "African"
Simmons would like Compass readers to know that if you are in Bequia and have
an emergency, a problem or just need some local knowledge, he's ready and will-
ing to help you as he has helped many others in the past. Just call "African" on VHF
68 or cell phone 593-3986 or ask for him at the Frangipani Hotel bar. You've got a
friend in Bequia.
Carriacou Charity Auction
Melodye Pompa reports: Please make every effort to join us in Carriacou for special
activities during the Carriacou Regatta Festival as we raise funds (and fun!) for the
Carriacou Children's Education Fund (CCEF). The CCEF Potluck Barbecue on
August 1st, and the CCEF Auction on August 2nd, will be held at the Carriacou
Yacht Club at Tyrrel Bay. The entire 42nd Carriacou Regatta Festival takes place
from July 29th to August 6th, with sailboat races held on the last week-end.
Our favorite auctioneer, Mike Jordan, promises to be with us if no tropical storms
are threatening! Several businesses have already queued up with pledged dona-
tions and we have at least one new business supporter, Patty's Deli in Hillsborough.
If you can't be there for the fun, when passing through Carriacou please drop off
"treasures of the bilge" for the auction, household items for the "$10 and Under"
table, and craft items. These can be left at the Carriacou Yacht Club. And if you
can't get to Carriacou at all but want to help this worthy cause, there are several
ways we can accept cash donations from afar.
For more information on helping the Carriacou Children's Education Fund, contact
boatmillie@aol com.
For more information on Carriacou Regatta visit www.carriacouregatta.com.
Cruisers' Site-ings
The Caribbean Large Marine Ecosystem (CLME) Project's goal is sustainable man-
agement of the shared living marine resources of the Caribbean through an inte-
grated management approach. CLME has a new website:
www.cavehill.uwi.edu/cermes/clme.html.
May 1st saw the launching of http://coribbeanwhalefriends.org/index.htm, a web-
site devoted to promoting "whale-friendly" policies in the Caribbean through public
education and information on the impacts of decisions taken at meetings of the
International Whaling Commission (IWC). The 59th annual meeting of the IWC is tak-
ing place in Anchorage, Alaska, as this issue of Compass goes to press.
Many people in the Eastern Caribbean depend on good governance of marine
resources for their livelihoods and for development to be sustainable. However,
there is an urgent need to build capacity and network connections for adaptation
and resilience, into present and planned marine resource governance. To assist in
addressing this need, the Centre for Resource Management (CERMES) at the
University of the West Indies is undertaking applied research on marine resource
governance in the Eastern Caribbean. Visit this project's website at
www.cavehill.uwi.edu/cermes/margov_profile.html


CHRIS DOYLE'S GUIDE
Check out the features that make them
the Caribbean's best sellers!

Full Color sketch charts
Aerial and scenic color photography
Up-do-date, lively and relevant text
Downloadable waypoints
& updates on the web at
www.doyleguides.com


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JUNE 2007
Y ARIES (21 Mar 20 Apr)
Love will fill your sails somewhere in the second week.
Sail off to some quiet cove and make the most of this celes
tial influence.

d TAURUS (21 Apr 21 May)
Fickle love is in full flight, running downwind for the
horizon as fast as it can go. Don't let this scuttle your
business or financial dealings.

3 GEMINI (22 May 21 Jum)
There may be a few squalls on your creative course this
June, but nothing serious. Stick to your chosen course
and don't let outside distractions make you wander off it.

0 CANCER (22 Jui 23 Jul)
Communication technology will be rife with problems:
static on all lines and even a possible breakdown. Time to
turn off the radio and use telepathy?

Q LEO (24 Jul 23 Aug)
It's love that makes the world go 'round this June, the
traditional month for weddings. There may be one cross
ing your course!

T VIRGO (24 Aug 23 Sep)
There will be distractions galore this month to make you
stray from your chosen waypoints. But they are just petty
irritations and rough spots, none to be taken too seriously.

^ LIBRA (24 Sep 23 Oct)
Better to take a break from the usual onboard rituals
and spend some time off the boat. Just don't forget to
pump the bilge before departing!

TL SCORPIO (24 Oct 22 Nov)
Other than a few glitches with the gremlins in the
machines, the month should sail by smoothly. June brings
good energy to clean up projects that need "tweaking", like
caulking that last bit of deck over the fo'c'sle that's been
leaking every time you take seas on the foredeck.

SAGITTARIUS (23 Nov 21 Dec)
A storm of hormones will give you far too many opportu
nities to get in trouble. Just quiver your arrows and keep
your hands busy with something productive on the boat.

6 CAPRICORN (22 Dec 20 Jan)
Everyone will seem argumentative and cranky. You'll do
a lot of tacking to stay on your chosen course. Don't let
others' lack of understanding get you down.

^ AUARIUS (21 Jan 19 Feb)
If you get too wrapped up in your own gratification and
forget the needs of crew and loved ones, you could find
yourself in rough seas in your relationships and business.

S PISCES (20 Feb 20 Mar)
There will be endless changes of sail and conditions.
Spend some time working on your communications with
crew and others close to you. It's okay to say no.




Crossword Solution

ACROSS 24) THROUGH 14) TIES
1) TOY 25) TILT 15) TED
2) TIGHT 27) TIMBERS 17) TIME
4) TICKET 28) TARTANES 18) THWART
7) TRICE 19) TOSH
8) TOPSAIL DOWN 20) THUMB
9) TOE 1) TORTUE 21) TOLL
10) THRUST 3) TIER 21) TOTE
12) TOTAL 4) TOSS 23) THIS
13) TOOT 5) TOUCH 26) TOW
16) TAR 6) TOME 27) TE
17) TOWAGE 7) THRUM
18) TIDE 9) TWO
20) THROW 10) TIDAL
22) TRADE 11) TILLER
23) THUNDER 12) TRADER


ON ANCHOR


The first rays of the sun
Slipping over the east ridge
Dance on indigo.

A new day begins
In the safety of this bay,
This ancient refuge.

A broad open bay,
Ringed by lush, rugged hills.
Rocky shores, save one.

The sun runs its arc,
Indigo turns to azure,
Fifty hulls gleaming.

The squall lines pass south,
"Mr-hin. from the Atlantic
I I Mexico.

Beyond the west ridge
S ..... iderheads rise
I **i ....- i the blue.

The afternoon sun
Falls toward the horizon.
Clouds are rose and grey.

The sun sinks away,
Azure turns to indigo,
Stars light up the sky.

Fifty boats at rest,
Guarded by the Southern Cross.
The cycle runs on.


John Rowland







In the Good Old Days



In a time before terrorists,
in the two-bourbon twilight,
I was setting'
in
the tropic eve,
long shadows
stealing'
in
with the gloamin'.

Wavelets murmured
on the shore below,
night sounds
wafted
on lingerin',
scented,
jungle breezes.

A falling' frond,


a distant laugh
as the village
settled
in for the night.


Nicholas Lee







Nautical Alphabet:

'T' Number Three
12 ACROSS

1) Windsurfer on a charterboat, e.g.
4 5 6 2) Without slack
4) Slang for captain's license
7) To haul up
7 8) Type of schooner
9) Type of rail on boat
10) Effort of a screw propeller
12) Final count
13) Tugboat tale, 'Little
16) Jack's last name?
17) Payment for 25 Down
18) Can be spring or neap
20) Distance a pump handle moves
10 1122) Famous Caribbean wind
23) Product of lightning
24) fastened; bolted from one side of planks
123 14 and frames to the other
25) Heel over
27) 'Shiver me
15 28) Certain Mediterranean vessels

16 17 D18 DOWN

1) French for turtle
3) Place in ship where coiled ropes are stored
4) Order to place oars in perpendicular position
-1 ...1 i .tern timbers at the counter
19 20 21 is one
7) Coarse woolen or hemp yarn
9) Minimum number of bearings to find position
10) Pertaining to 17 Across
11) Steering arm attached to rudder head C
12) Baltic ; type of wooden ship Z
23 14) Sail gaskets m
15) Short for Edward N)
17) Greenwich Mean 0
24 25 26 18) Rower's seat
19) Reggae star, Peter
20) Cleat that stops topsail reef earrings from slipping n
27 21) Fee
22) Carry
23) Not that
28 26) To drag another vessel using a line
27) Amo, famous Virgin island charter yacht
z
Solution on page 36
O


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www.caribbeancompass.com


parlumps marooned








I CRUISINGKITDS'TCORNER


by Lee Kessell
Y you're going to wonder what the glassy sweep
er fish has to do with the story when it is real
y about a certain mermaid I know. Yes, you
can laugh and say that mermaids don't exist, but
that's only because you have never seen one. I have.
Mermaid Merry lived in a cavern in the sea, not too
deep because the cavern was made of coral and corals
usually like to see the sun shining down 1....
clear, tropical waters. An old and experienced j .
had designed the cavern especially to please Mermaid
Merry and, as I've explained before, jawfish are build
ing engineers who construct safe and cozy homes.
Various sea creatures had all helped in building
Merry's home. Pink lace coral decorated the bed and
green net algae was draped about to form a pretty
canopy. The mattress was made of the softest white
sea moss.
Mermaid Merry served tea in her "mermaid's tea
cups", a type of seaweed which grew conveniently just
outside her door, and she had pretty white mermaid's
wine glasses to drink from. Sea grapes grew on the
walls of her cavern and were ready for picking when
ever Merry wanted a quick snack. She had a yellow
pencil coral to write with and papyrus print algae to
write on. If she wasn't too tired in the evening,
Mermaid Merry could light her candelabrum octocoral,
and if she felt too warm, there were many lilac
coloured sea fans waiting to sweep cool water right
through the cavern.
Merry threaded the lovely deep green, shiny sea
pearls, some decorated with lavender algae, into
strings of beads. She wore them around her neck and
wrists and even pinned some into her long, red gold
hair. Of course Merry brushed her hair a hundred
strokes both morning and night with a bristle ball
brush. Like girls everywhere, Mermaid Merry liked to
see how beautiful she was, so her friend, the glassy
sweeper, became her mirror.
Now we come to the exciting part. You see, glassy
sweepers are strange-looking fish. They have a
1. 1 1 ending in a short tail, just like the han
1 ...... or. Under this -i. .,.1.i 1,ack, the rest of
the body loops down like a : .1 but best of all,
the scales of the glassy sweeper are so perfect and
shiny that you can see yourself in them.
Mermaid Merry was never bored or lonely because
she had lots of companions, all the colourful reef fish
as a matter of fact. She even held classes in reading
and writing for the little fish!
Then, one day, out of the blue swam a ferocious bull
shark. Sharks had never been a problem, having
agreed long ago never to harm Mermaid Merry. But the
bull shark had an evil temper and he was hungry. He
had lost a tooth and his jaw ached. He was prowling
about looking for an easy meal when he spied the cav


Cheers for




Glassy Sweeper!


Mermaid Merry


liked to see


how beautiful


she was,


so her friend,


the glassy sweeper,


became her mirror



ern. Perfect! The mermaid would be easy pickings. Bull
Shark stormed towards the entrance to the cavern just
at the same time that Mermaid Merry was looking into
her mirror. And what did she see reflected in the glassy
sweeper's pink tinted, shiny scales? Not only her own


pretty face, but the big open mouth bristling with rows
of long, sharp teeth of Mr. Bull Shark.
Quick as a flash, Merry, holding tightly to the tail of
her friend, the glassy sweeper, darted around the back
of her bed where the green net algae gathered togeth
er into a tight curtain to hide her. Sea urchins, the
ones with the long, sharp black spines, were always on
sentry duty in odd corners of the cavern. They now
gathered together in formation and held out their
spines like spears to ward off the attack. The sea fans
instantly pushed the flow of the water in reverse, and
the sudden thrust of water down the shark's throat
make him gasp in surprise. An electric eel, hearing all
the commotion, rushed out of its hollow in the reef to
investigate and seeing the bull shark where it had no
right to be, gave it such a lash of electricity that the
shark reared up, did a back flip, knocked its head on
a boulder and groaning and sputtering limped back
into the deeps.
When everything had returned to normal, all the reef
fish gathered about to celebrate their victory. They
gave thanks to the green net algae, the spiny urchins,
the sea fans, and the electric eel. Then Mermaid Merry
came forwarcl .,. I -1.11ii i .... .- glassy sweeper mir
ror, held it I i .. I .11. her prettiest smile
announced:
"Indeed I thank you all for saving my life but all
would have been in vain if dear Glassy Sweeper had
n't reflected that big bull shark's ugly face just in time.
So my friends, let's give a special cheer to Mistress
Glassy Sweeper!"
And so they did, each 'l-.1-; t>irns to look into the
reflective scales of Mistre I - -weeper, seeing for
the first time just how beautiful they all were.
THE END


An extension of the hook-and-line method is trolling (not to be confused with
/ trawling!). In. 11.... fishingg lines with baited hooks are towed behind the fish
ing boat. The I.- ...... pull in their lines as soon as they feel something bite, so
l any unwanted fisl ... I ..... 1 1 ii .. ,.i.i .way.
I % Fishpots and. ., .. I ., I ... ... wood or wicker but now
usually made from galvanized iron mesh) which are dropped onto the sea floor
--~th 1 -n line and floating buoy to mark their positions. They attract bottom
SII I ,. i, lobsters, etcetera, and hold them alive until the fishermen haul the
pots back up some days later. Fishpots and traps may dra. -.1 t- the sea floor
when the sea is rough and bounces them around. However, .. I I. ... the minor
damage this may cause, pots and traps are mostly environmentally friendly as,
OD D E E P R 9Sj once again, it is possible to release juvenile creatures and unwanted species when
SLP Unfortunately, these methods alone cannot satisfy the global demand for
by Elaine Olivirre seafood. So, it is important that current fish stocks are well-managed so that
y e there will be fish on the dinner table for the foreseeable future!
We have looked at fishing methods which can be very damaging to the envi
ronment. Are there any which are not so destructive?
Any fishing method which has no by-catch (or takes by catch which can be Word Puzzle
immediately released), or which targets one fish alone rather than hundreds at Unscramble the following seven-letter words taken from the passage and
one time, and which does not damage the sea floor, is environmentally friendly, write into the spaces provided. Then unscramble the letters found in the grey
These methods are the oldest in the world and use little technology, squares and find the name of a creature usually caught by an environmentally
Harpooning is one such method. There i I i 11 ,, i I I l..... i .. .1.. friendly method.
minium or wooden spear into a single fish, ..I I i,. I... ...... n I s i .. s
are usually used to catch large ocean-going fish such as bluefin tuna and swordfish. 1) PHOANOR
On many a wharf and dinghy dock in the Caribbean, you will see fishermen 2) SPITHOF 2 |
using 1 ...i1.- .. 1o catch the little fish that are found in schools under any 3) SESPICE
I jetty. 11. ... ... .. a hook at the end of the line. The line itself may or may not 4) TABITHA
I 1 i. 1 . I.. n Hand-lining or hook-and-line is an environmental 5) CHATBYC 4.
i.... 1 ... II ... ... unwanted fish is caught, the fisherman can take it 6) FLIBUNE
iI ., , " ,' ......... ... 7) ERASEEL

fishermen are also able to tag and then release some of the fish they catch. This is
helpful to fisheries management authorities, who need to be able to track the move-A wears on e 29
ments of various species of fish and estimate their populations.
m m m m m m m m m m m m m m m m m m m m m m m m m m m








Latest Boaters' Reference


to Trinidad & Tobago


Trinidad & Tobago Boaters' Directory
2007/2008, published by Boaters Enterprise Ltd
2007. Paperback, 250 pages, color photos and maps.
US$5/TT$30.
A crowd of over a hundred well-wishers gathered on
the lawn of Tropical Mari.. ... h. i ..........
Trinidad, on May 16th for the 11. .1 1 ..... I.... I ,.
13th edition of the Boaters' : .......i r .. ..
Tobago. The arrival of the 2007/2008 edition of this
guide to all things yacht related was heralded by guest
speakers Tommy Johnson, President of the Yacht
Services Association of Trinidad & Tobago (YSATT) and
PJ Williams, Managing Director of Caribbean
Propellers Ltd.
The longevity and size of the Boaters' Directory
reflects the success of Trinidad & Tobago's commit-
ment to yachting. After only about 17 years in exis
tence, what is now termed the twin-island state's
"yachting industry" currently brings some US$25 mil
lion into the country per year and directly employs
1,500 people.
The Boaters' Directory lists local sources for boat
parts, repair and maintenance services .t- ;- f cili
ties, provisions, etcetera, and gives :,I .....I.. ,, on
official regulations as well as tours, .1.- .... I por
tunities, and more. Tide tables anc ..- ,,I .... are
also included.
New in this edition is a chapter on cruising destina
tions outside T&T, in support of the Caribbean Marine
Association's theme of "Many Islands, One Sea". As
the text explains, "The Boaters' Directory ofTrinidad &
Tobago recognizes and respects those sailors and
cruisers who believe in an "active anchor" and a
"where to next?" attitude.... Trinidad and Tobago offer
just one part of the whole fantastic and beautiful
Caribbean." Ti..- I.. .. .. ...... i ., ,. I. ,.
features Cura . .. I ... i i I .
v.r-I t- ---n, other neighboring destinations high
1.i i I ,, I..... editions.


The 13th edition of the Boaters' Directory is dedicate
ed to Jesse James of Members Only Maxi Taxi Service,
an individual providing ..i- ... .... rvice to the
many sailors who come t( ..... I ... all over the
world. The dedication states that "Through Jesse,
much has been done to involve our visitors in the
multi-faceted culture of Trinidad and Tobago."
Publisher Jack Dausend tells Compass, "I was proud
to grant the book dedication to Jesse. It was well
deserved and it is an honour to have someone so out
standing here in Trinidad. He is a great man." He's
also funny. At the book launch, noting that he had a
list of "a few friends" he wanted to thank in a short
acceptance speech, Jesse then let a ten-foot sheaf of
computer paper accordion to the floor.
On the same occasion, Jesse was also presented
with the South Bound II Blue Water ...... Service
Trophy by Denis Webster, Commodor I I. Seven
Seas Cruising Association, who observed that when he
first visited Trinidad in 1994, there were only eight vis
iting yachts in the TTSA anchorage and none in
Chaguaramas Bay. How times have changed! This
presentation was followed by n ~ i2n.- rendition of
an original calypso, "Call -- The Mighty
Yachtie. Further entertainment provided by Scorpion
Pan Reflection and the Tri-Star Tassa Drums, and
refreshments from Angostura, Joe's Pizza and "the
doubles crew" rounded out the occasion.
Boaters' Enterprise gives special thanks to the book
launch sponsors: Angostura, Associated Marine
Design, Budget Marine, Coral Cove Marina, Dockyard
Electric, IMS, Joe's Pizza, tl. T..I Yachtie, Power
Boats, Tropical Marine and I 1 -
The Trinidad & Tobago Boaters'Directory is available
at the Boaters' Enterprise office and the YSATT office,
both located in the Shipwright Building at CrewsInn
Hotel & Yachting Centre, Chaguaramas, Trinidad, or at
www.BoatersEnterprise.com.


BOATERS'

DIRECTORY


2001-2008







S '


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BOOK REVIEW BY BOB BERLINGHOF


Insider


Viewpoints

Caribbean Dispatches, Beyond the Tourist
Dream, compiled and edited by Jane Bryce, Macmillan
Caribbean @2006, paperback, 209 pages. ISBN 13:
978-1-4050-71369.
Caribbean Dispatches is a series of reports,
vignettes, and personal accounts that attempts
to i-" th- -r lr ,n in{ilr'" -hnt "f t
wh .. .. .
hu ..1. .
swarc ......i


Most of the
dispatches are
from the English
speaking islands,
with notable excep
tions being Cuba
and Haiti. Since
these two islands are
frequently ignored or
maligned, including
them was well appreci
ated by this reader.
The book is loosely organized into five sections,
based on the type of story, rather than by geography.
The national boundaries of the English-speaking
Caribbean seem quaint and foolish given their simi-
larities in culture. There are first-hand accounts of a
West Indian Christmas, a typical courtroom, a cricket
match, traffic jams in Bridgetown, Carriacou's
Shakespeare competition, ambiguity towards tourists,
and of playing mas at Carnival. There is a colorful
harmless madman who lives with .- .. 11 .. .
out I.... every day, at least i:. I..- .... I ...
Vroc... i I a coconut vendor ("Shades") who stops
traffic as he slices and presents his nuts effortlessly,
but can't keep up with demand.
Jane Bryce, who compiled and edited this selection
of works, is a lecturer at the University of the West
Indies. She writes in the book's introduction that her
goal was to provide "a well-written and idiosyncratic
collection of personal views of Caribbean life by writ
ers of mainly Caribbean origin, or who know it well, for
read 1. ... I : I beyond the exotic surface of
the t .... ..
Many stories use dialect effectively, none better than
Oonya Kempadoo's "Our Worship Sir", a hilarious
account of wasting time in court. Philip Nanton's "A
Morning at the Library" and "On d'Beat" take this
technique to the extreme and almost feel like tape
recorded monologues because of their realism.
"The Bull Whisperer" by Ian Craig is a story of sexu
al dissatisfaction in Cuba, but it is also a critique of
society under Castro, upon which Fidel might look
dimly: I doubt this book could be sold in Havana. Yet
it also deals with how it feels to be stigmatized as a
tourist when all you want to do is blend in. The title
refers to a joke told by a Cuban to the author: a young
Cuban travels to Spain, and, penniless, decides to
enter the ring in a bullfight open to new matadors.
Our hero watches the raging bull gore three of his
predecessors but when it is his turn he deftly manages


to sidestep the bull a few times, and on the fifth pass
he whispers in the bull's ear. The bull falls down dead.
"But whatever did you say to the bull, comparee" the
press demand of him. "Quite simple," he replies. "I
just gave him the choice our Comandante is always
giving us: Socialismo o muerte!" ("Socialism or death!')
Simon Lee's "How I Lost My Camera in Havana" is
about a culture-drenched drinking spree in Havana,
and his "Oval Lime" an equally jovial look at cricket
and cricket fans. My favorite Simon Le 1I ..... was
"How I Got My Vodou Visa", which .- 1i. more
engaging than merely witnessing voodoo ceremonies
in Haiti, featuring a fairly raw, or well-imagined, sex
ual encounter with a priestess.
H,- T t T "'r attention yet? I hope so, for I've
i 1. I -I I last. Lennox Honychurch's
i ,i i1. II .rt: Jean Rhys's Dominica" is a
I .......... f both the era and the phys
Si i i..... i i wonderful author. But my
i ...i -I - Jeremy Taylor's "Fitting In". In
i I I teaches English in a prestigious
in 1 1 1
S.. i '. heat, we struggled
S I I nd Jane Austen, and the choir
,l 'i, folksongs and sea shantiesfor
SI I' t '. 'le music festival. We ventured
S- on and the early Naipaul stories,
I, ,,1 .. .. complained Trinidad dialect
S. .. by some academics into a sep
.iage) was simply 'bad English,'
S .t was this ignoramus doing
S i ,' it?
I nt on to become a reviewer and
I, but his: i. inot quite
I I ..[ng never i I i .... he would
s be a foreigner. He makes a
I....-action between himself and
I. r ex pats:
I 's OK for expatriates to retain
i, '?ir own culture and to regard
S1leir new environment more or
less as a playground. There's
usually a fat corporate con
tract, a nice salary and
Sperks... waiters discreetly
carrying hors d'oeuvres and
well aged liquors, the great
and good mingling and
back slapping. The expa
triate tribe gathers at the
same bars, the same
receptions, the same
I. )mes and parties, the same
....... f don't you just love this place,
and aren't the people wonderful?
He observes coolly:
When you leave your country of birth and settle down
in somebody else's, you carry your own culture with
you. For a couple of weeks' holiday, that doesn't both
er anyone. But if you have the temerity to put down
roots in your adoptive country, it sooner or later
becomes an issue, whether you notice it or not.... The
longer you stay, the more complex things become... You
learn the art of living, adopt local dress style and cre
ole diet, drink at local bars, shout as loud as anyone
else in conversations.., and listen to the same music as
locals do. You let your accent soften. You no longer
think of anywhere else as 'home'...
As part of the deal, Caribbean pleasures have to be
traded for a degree of discretion. If you're from a socie
ty that long ago banished the death penalty and you
hear a well known personality on the radio calling for
the immediate "swinging" of the whole of Death Row as
the answer to crime, you keep quiet nothing an out
side can say will make any difference.... It took me 20
years to learn this. It doesn't matter how much you
identify with your adoptive country. It doesn't matter
how passionately you seek its best interests... Things
will unfold as they must. Society will go its own way,
make its own choices, choose its own destiny, make it
own mistakes; and it is neither gracious nor courteous
to interfere.... If you believe in sef determination, there
is no other choice. The answers, and the questions,
must come from within....
Mr. Taylor's comments are at turns hilarious and
sobering, witty and wise. After discussing the mess
that is politics in Trinidad, he concludes, "So the best
contribution I could make now, I thought, would be to
shut up."
I would recommend this book to all visitors who are
seeking a deeper understanding of what it means to be
Caribbean, or to anyone who appreciates good writing.
Though some of Ms. Bryce's 40 selections did not res
onate as well as others, this is normal in such a wide
ranging collection. There is something for everyone
here, and taken as a whole this book succeeds as an
insightful guide to the great diversity that is
Caribbean culture.

Available at bookstores or from
www.macmillancaribbean.com.




















by Julia Bartlett

To grasp the full impact of what I'm about to tell you, I would like you to imagine
this perhaps familiar scenario.
It's happy hour. Beer is two-for-the-price-of one in the Drunken Sailor, and the old
salts and would-be salts are in earnest debate. Earnest debate is the stage before at
least one of the participants realizes he or she is losing, senses an imminent squall
and dashes off to batten the hatches.
The Cast:
Pinky wrinkled, anal, former social worker who has spent too long working on her
tan and has fried her brains as well as her skin and is on her tenth boat in five years.
Porky thinks he has good legs, wears short, short shorts (from which his dang
ly bits occasionally escape) under a huge belly, I i..11 1 .. ........ .- in the salon
and describes himself as "very good looking" to -1 I. i.. I ... i on the web.
Perky deeply depressed about his engine, refrigeration, outboard and lack of a
u .t- hy fix it when it'll just break again?" "Why shower? They don't
I ....... is the sort of cry you'll recognize him by.
Percy ... 1.... in a ponytail tied over the balding bit, nicotine-stained
fingers, i. i ,, .,I I. i I keep them short for the guitar) and one leg or the other
leg vibrates continuously; a really cool dude.
Skip -sews his own pants out of old sails, knows how to use a sextant, built his
own dinghy, sailed round the world, twice, and hasn't left the harbour for 20 years.
Recognise anyone?
Subject of the Debate: Anchoring for a Hurricane
Skip: "I swear by my Rusty anchor. It held me in a Cat Five, back before hurri
canes had names."
Perky: "I tied into the mangroves in a tropical storm, put out five sixty-pounders
and still sank."
Porky: "Well, in Ivan I was in Grenada and..."




Now just suppose

there was a cruising guide

for the entire planet




Pinky: "That was your first mistake; being there. There wa- i 1 ... r
Skip: "T -in.f anchors in tandem is no good. When the eye ..- - II. .11 )ut
and awa,, .. I go. All you need is one Rusty."
Percy: "I stock up with Imperial rum, lay my two ploughs at 45 degrees, then drink
the rum. Ha! Ha! That works."
Skip: Ploughs are okay, but not a patch on a Rusty. Don't make them any more
because they last forever. No built-in obsolescence. It's called progress.
Perky: "I wonder why they are called Rusty?"
Porky: "When I was in Ivan...
Pinky: "You don't know what happened. You weren't even on board."
Percy: "You can't beat Imperial. Ha! Ha!"
Skip: "Good anchors, Imperial. Bit weak in the shaft though."
Perky: "I don't like them. Expensive for what they are."
Percy: "Expensive? C .. I I ...... I- your money than Imperial."
Porky: "When I was...
Of course you and I wouldn't be seen dead contributing to this type of debate but
we've all overheard it at the next table.
Now just suppose there was a cruising guide for the entire planet, run by cruis
ers, for cruisers, i. . ..1 I ..i .. i i .. ..... i .... wisdom, way
points, security i .I ... I 1.1 i ,i ,,i ... line, instant
ly, easily and anonymously if they wish.
Okay, if you now superimpose our little skit over that idea you can start to have
some real fun.
Such a cruising guide does exist and it's called Captain Wiki and you can find it
at www.captainwiki.com.
Captain Wiki's ingenious creator, Ben Walsh, was planning to cruise to Margarita
with his partner Christine Pensivy on their yacht Valkyrie and couldn't find any up
to-date security information. Ben was a computer programmer in another life so he
set up a website tc fill tl -
Captain Wiki is : .-I ... I .11 Wikipedia.com, the on-line encyclopedia written,
and freely edited, by contributors around the world. Originally intended for cruisers
to post or read up on security issues, Captainwiki.com grew and grew and soon it
became a destination guide featuring all the stuff that our cast of cruisers from the
next table would know already: availability of fuel, spare parts, tips on storm read
ness, and the bet hripp hours.
This is a lIIrI---, -- arena for us all to share our adventures, knowledge and
ti'-.t- user-friendly and 11 ...- 1 -- --ti- tl,- 1-. :: thlatripsa
.... Som e nice touch .. 1. i. i .i i -.i i i ,,,. .... and the
opportunity to post our own personal travel blogs. There must be a recipe page
somewhere, there always is.
The ultimate cruising guide is just waiting for us to write it up. Fame and power
are within every cruiser's grasp. So if you are looking for a project this hurricane
season, get out your log books, surf over to www.captainwiki.com and help build
this Wiki site on your Wifi. Captain Wiki has been cast adrift in cyberspace and I,
for one, am riveted to see where he ends up. Wiki-ed!


In last month's review of the
autobiography Beyond the
Islands, which was written by
Sir James Mitchell and pub
lished by Macmillan Caribbean,
our reviewer Paul Tyler noted
that "Beyond the Islands
records the life of a man rising
from what once was a small,
distant colony to become the
leader of a newly independent
nation -nd r ni d leader
onthe, '-I
Later in the review, Mr. Tyler
suggested that for those uniniti
ated in the history of Caribbean
politics and its "welter of names
I ..... .... a glossary
I 1. fact, a glos
sary explaining the acronyms of
relevant regional and internal
~ tional organizations is included.
Rather than being placed more
conventionally at the end of the
book, this glossary appears at
the beginning, along with the
l-n--~ -l nti nd other
,, I ,, h, material
such as maps of the Caribbean
and St. Vincent & the
Grenadines, and a list of illus
trations (which include an
abundant collection of black
and white photos ranging from a portrait of the author's great grandfather to
c,, I i .. I''1. i I. I ,'-, with many historic moments cap
It I, a II I II .I ...v .. I ,I listed in the Table of Contents. We
can only assume that our reviewer, like ourselves, was so eager to get to the
body of this illuminating contemporary life story that he skipped over the first
few pages and plunged straight into Chapter One. Our apologies to the author
and publisher.
This book is available at bookstores orfrom www.macmilan caribbean.com.









1,.h titudes /AttiU'desiTV









DIFFERENT BOATS FCblIFFERENT FOLKS


37 Years in the Caribbean:



Wolfgang Olszewski '



and His Boats


by Hans Baer


How would you like to live on a piece of real estate that
covers some 75 percent of the earth, in a "house" that
you can move around at will from location to location,
without rental or mortgage charges, any time of the day
or the year, choosing your neighbors or avoiding them,
selecting your preferred climate and views? Well then
you should buy yourself an ocean-ready boat and make
it your home. And by boat I mean not a tiny 50-foot
yacht -get a little palace! To occupy your living space
you need no formalities, and from the first minute
onward, you are the one who makes the choices and
decisions. Utility bills the way landlubbers know them
will be a matter of the past -but of course you have to
pay for (or make) your own drinking water, buy some
fuel, pay for internet service and so on. But that is about
it. As long as you were careful to buy a boat that was not
in disrepair and you know how to maintain and service
it, your expenses may turn out to be a fraction of what
the support costs and utilities would cost you for a dry
land home. Any extras? Well, you have to buy a few extra
nails and screws, because the pictures on the walls of
the cabins have to be attached firmly....
i ... -. a live-aboard floating palace: that is what
... Olszewski did about four years ago.
Although when he came to the Caribbean 37 years
ago as a 24-year-old, he did not quite have the cash
as yet to make such an investment. Freshly
released from the German Merchant Marine the
ink on his Marine Captain Certifice -,i I i
and a partner first invested in a 3 ...* '
launch called Mocambo, intended t i i i ,
diving charters, mainly catering ...
guests. In his rented Indian Bay .... -
Vincent he was then surrounded b3 i
houses along the now crowded a i


SI- -i i iiu4


Seatruck, newly arrived in the Young Island Cut ofSt.


4


21


vessel in t:iT- r-i-i
The i i .... I plenty of business in those years,
tugging defunct vessels of all sizes between the South
American mainland of Venezuela and the US. She was
also available for charter by spe-i.1 -,-. 1-- li-g
int i ien- ,h- ni- r I d ...1... a ... . 1 ....
I, ,i "I i,,,i ,,, ,I I h,',, I .



I I h, . .. i .. I .. I ,h1


hI


populated beach.
This first of his businesses must have flourished
because, after the sale of the Mocambo in 1977, he had
the necessary cash to acquire his first very own vessel,
the Moonlight, which he sailed across the Atlantic from
Germany all by himself in 16 days. With the Moonlight
he started up his own charter business, but that last
ed only for about a year when he decided he had
enough for a while of dealing with new and demanding
guests all the time. He sold the vessel and went back
home, shopping in Europe, this time acquiring a 30
metre tugboat, the Seatruck-Stratmann, the first such


Seawolfe, resting after yet another tow job off the
picturesque coast of Martinique
time -7;;ni;i thf 27-metre sea rescue and salvage
boat, -- .. i I .I I. the precise spelling, it gets tricky
further down!).
The Seewolf had been built to cope with the rough
seas of Europe's Atlantic coasts and the North Sea
between England and Europe, and thus equipped,
Wolfgang never had any concerns about weather in
the Caribbean, including hurricanes. Firstly, he could
outrun these storms with the power of the three
engines allowing speeds up to 35 knots. Secondly, he


Vincent, in 1977


seems to have a slight masochistic trait or, shall we
say, he enjoys th- -ll-n- -f r-~;; f to break
the monotony. I c ..i ... II. .... i.. .11 heading
into an approach ., I ..... .. j,.-1 i 1 in of it!
For the next five years, the Seewolf performed life
saving operations for crews of various boats in serious
trouble. Each year, some five to ten such rescues were
required in the Caribbean waters.
Now, what do you think happened after a few years
of life saving? Wolfgang by then had enough of this
"small" boat. In 1990 he managed to sell it to a
German maritime museum and went shopping. -. i;
This time he ended up with a big one: the --
And with that, he was suddenly in the league of big
boat operators with the capability of towing vessels of
any size or pulling them off reefs.
In between towing jobs, if .. i i r transformed
the Seawolfe, with its 80 ..- ......inum, into a
highly organized and well-equipped vessel with robotic
controls, essentially allowing it to be run by a two-per
son crew. It is on this vessel that I met Wolfgang
around 1994 when she was already revamped and in
immaculate shape, well-maintained and highly func
tional. Rescue and towing jobs brought some
US$10,000 to $30,000 a run, and in the industry he
was known for prompt and reliable service. Contracts
were negotiated over a fax line, and once the final order
was received, the Seawolfe was quick to arrive at the
site, reaching about 15 knots at full speed. One of his
trickier jobs once was to pull a freighter off a rocky
beach in Dominica, but most contracts involved more
benign tasks such as towing disabled vessels to their
port of choice for repairs.
By the n.. i -- ii. .... perfected not only the
technical:.... i. ... .1 I ssel but also had put
i, ,,l. I ,, ite- ,,, ...ie. ,ii ,, i I,, I. If

orated Seawolfe provided charter services to groups of
customers who preferred the solid and sturdy per
formance of a rescue vessel and tug, with plenty of
space to walk about, luxurious staterooms and unlim
ited storage for luggage and supplies, over the rigors of
sailing on small yachts. I once met up with a group of
Rotarians from a southern German tI rn diepl-iin'
an apparently unlimited capacity for ........ i ,
Hairoun beers, enjoying a dream voyag- *--nr- the
islands of the Lesser Antilles. The blue -- ... lf with
its high wave-1r-2l-in. bow became a familiar sight in
the anchorage- i 1. Caribbean.
It took an eternity -of some nine years and then
Wolfgang Olszewski became restles ;ri;n n. ;-1 ---
a change: it was time again to sell. I i Ii
- ... If L priceless vessel in terms of performance,
I.... i. .. .1. reliability and business opportunities. As
farasl ii..,. ... ... .... .. -i ...i... ... the St.
Barts .. i .... II ..... I I I ` .-Niente
t 1-i 1 ,thing! Last year, the September issue
o01 I ... I.- I the vessel as number 151 among the
200 largest motoryachts internationally.
Continued on next page







Continuedfrom previous page
i.. .. I,,,, ,, i;. i .,. was now ready for
S..1..... i ... 1 .... .1, probably with a solid
financial cushion after selling the Seauwofe, was both
wrong and right. He, of course, went shoppir .
Europe and this time came up with what he :
to as his retirement boat: a 125-foot ferry with a long
history of saf, i -.-. in Atlantic and North Sea
waters -the ... I The hull construction of this
boat was such as to allow for stable ferry operations
with little tilt due .-.. .... of weights on board.
Wolfgang proceed i i .11 sailing it across from
Germany to his beloved second homeland, St. Vincent,
to meticulously refurbish her interior. From floor to
ceiling, every room and cabin now is cleanly finished
and all rooms are well and tastefully furnished, deco
rated with many of the memorabilia collected over
more than 37 years of sailing and operating in the
Caribbean. Look out for a smart-looking white motor

i,, h .I i I 1. 1, I.,, ,i .



'II ., I I Ii i I I .. h .,11 h,


ker for commercial boat trades, and nobody seems to
know as well as he what is available in the region or
how to assess the seaworthiness of available vessels
for the commercial user.
Whenever I see the Oceanwolf anchored in the
Young Island channel in St. Vincent, I usually make
sure to sneak up on her with my sea kayak for a visit
over a cup of tea and some special biscuits obtained
from the shelves of the richly stocked supermarkets in
Martinique. T i--in this ocean-worthy craft allows
for a special 1.1 -11 Wolfgang and Maresby can go
shopping for delicatessen and other specialties in
Martinique one week and stock up on cheap root crops


. I . ....
h i, h ,, I. I I'










Vincent, tor example, only showing
a very few houses along the shores.
What other changes has he witnessed over these
many years? He never was .... ... -1.
but he mentionedthatinth I .. ...
surrounded his boats most of the time. Now they are
rare and small. Dolphins used to accompany him,
darting around the bow of his vessels. But now these,
too, are rarely seen The only time he sees plenty of
fish is when he touches down in Trinidad, witnessing
foreign fishing boats empty their indiscriminate daily
catches by the tons. So, the sea and the waters and
waves are still the same and the islands still beckon
for visitors to come and relax and enjoy our shores.


I, , i I I










earned it with hard work and dedicated services.
It is hard to imagine that the Oceanwolfindeed will
remain his floating retirement home. He vigorously
denies that he will get land-locked some time in the
near future. What could be the next step? A cruise
ship, a tanker or a freighter? How about a subma-
rine? If he has any ideas, he is not telling. Lets wait
another five years, and time will tell. Actually, if
someone came up with the necessary cash (in fact,
three years ago a Swiss businessman was ready to do
just that, only a very few years too early!), I am sure
if .... would not reject an offer. Now, you heard
.. ... me first -just remember, my commission
will be a meagre five percent!


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by Cruisin' Canucks


For seafood lovers in Grenada, Gouyave's Friday night fish fry offers much more than fried fish,
as this chef demonstrates
very-.- 1.- --- .t fish story that captivates The town of Gouyave has a Friday night fish fry that
the :,... ... .i, I .11 who are within earshot. I was told had a rebirth in recent months. The order of
'The caught dorado whose mate followed the the day was to go and check this place out. You start
boat for days, the huge tuna that could have swal with a maxi taxi ride that is arranged by the local
lowed Jonah. You know the stories. But this story is cruiser net's Wonder Woman, Inga. She arranges
a bit different as it has to do with a little community tours daily, r.n;;n: fr-m round-the-island to this
in Grenada. great Friday :...i.1 I -i. .1 Inga arranges these types


of things for the love of Grenada and cruisers. She
makes everybody feel welcome and does it for free.
The eager gathering of folks drooling for fish congre
gated around the on-time maxi taxi. Our driver flashed
a customary Grenadian smile that encompassed his
entire body, silently yelling at us, "Welcome to
Grenada, my friends!"
Our little group was on a specific mission and was
quite vocal during the journey. We had been unsuc
cessful in bagging those crafty crustaceans so when
the inquiry about whether they had lobster at the fish
fry was answered with "It have de biggest lobsters in
de world in Gouyave", there was a collective cheer. Our
hour-long ride was spiced with ocean views, rain
forests and communities dotted with waving
Grenadians. You almost felt like you were in a parade
for the twists and turns from Prickly Bay to the fish
ing capital of Grenada.
Commentary by Chris, our driver, filled the time
with some history and points of interest. The "Slow
Humps" '=;n =-nalled our arrival into Gouyave. The
school ol i....... tourists disembarked to begin their
i,. I-, i ...i. 1 1e enthusiasm of piranha seeking
S11 I I I lobsters didn't have a chance.
The entrance into the town starts with a long main
street which is mostly unlit. In any other country your
survival radar would be beeping like crazy as you
walked towards the light of the festival. In Grenada
there are no worries.
We entered the streets that were a flurry of activity
and dispersed. You could have your choice of every
fish imaginable, cooked almost every way possible.
The smell and sounds were as captivating as the
sights of cooking, preparing and general organized
chaos. Music blaring and people actually dancing in
the streets gave this town a carnival atmosphere,
albeit for one Friday night each week. This was the
place for folks of all ages, colours, beliefs and nation
alities celebrating the bounty of the seas.
Through the .1.... bodies we sighted our prize
and steered for .1 .- I. led by a i. .il. ..- Lobster.
And yes they were big, so large :.. i i .I we first
thought they were the plastic version you see on neon
i in i- -. North America. Yet these were indeed real and
i I I consumption.
The next three hours were spent consuming deli
cious temptations interrupted only briefly for a dance
to the next booth. The bar was at the center of the two
cross streets so you would have no problem quench
ing your thirst with local rums and beer.
These townsfolk really know how to throw a welcome
ing party. Our gals in the group had a moment when
they just looked like they needed a place to sit down,
and to our amazement a bench appeared right under
their noses (well, bums actually). The thought of leav
ing for our scheduled maxi bus was only palatable
knowing that we could do this all over again next week.
The snoring that was heard by passing motorists as
we weaved back to our home base and the creak of our
bus's suspension over the humps was testament to a
true gorging that was had by all. The wonderful sur
S i ...... .. li..I 1. whole event took less
i i .1 i i i ... i I I than anticipated.
So there you have it: a place that is safe, fun, filled
with wonderful people, food and drink that is cheap to
boot. Dat, my friends, is no fish story.


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DASHEEN


During one of the few times I sent my husband on a
solo market trip to do the vegetable buying, he
returned with a tuber that became slightly purple
when boiled. He said it was a type of island-grown root
called dasheen.
Dasheen root is a true favorite throughout the
Caribbean, but the plant is perhaps best known for its
broad heart-shaped leaves, called dasheen bush or
callaloo. I realized it was the leaf from this root that
made my favorite callaloo soup!
Dasheen bush should be well cooked to remove the
oxalic acid. In addition to their use in soup, the leaves
can be cooked as greens similar to spinach. The
stock" or leaf stem can be peeled and boiled, having
a taste similar to asparagus. Also the blanched young
shoots obtained by growing the plant in heavy shade
(usually under bananas) supply a tender vegetable
having a flavor somewhat like that of mushrooms.
The underground roots consist of one or more large
central heads (sometimes called a "mammy"), which
may grow up to eight pounds. Around the dasheen
head is a cluster of smaller roots, usually two to four
ounces in size. Like potatoes, dasheen roots can be
boiled, steamed or baked, used to thicken soups and
stews, or fried to make chips.
Dasheen is a belly-filling starch with 250 calories
per Cup. It is low in fat, with no cholesterol and one
gram of fiber, but 60 grams of carbohydrates.


rr f!


Dasheen Gnocchi
(Gnocchi is the Italian version of potato dumplings)
1 pound dasheen, peeled and chunked
1 pound sweet potato, peeled and chunked
2 Tablespoons olive oil
2 Tablespoons fresh basil, chopped small
1 bunch chadon bene, chopped small
2 cloves of garlic, minced
1 medium onion, chopped very fine
1 Cup dry white wine
2 medium ripe tomatoes, chopped small
1/2 Cup prepared marinara sauce (homemade
or canned)
salt and pepper to taste
2 1 1;- .- beaten

1 Cup baker's 11 ,'
1 Cup grated Parmesan, Romano or cheddar cheese
Boil dasheen and sweet potato chunks in salted
water until tender, approximately 30 minutes.
TO MAKE THE SAUCE: In a large skillet heat the oil,
adding basil, chadon bene, garlic and onions; cook for
about three minutes. Lower heat and add the white
wine, tomatoes and marinara sauce. Simmer for one
minute. Then season with salt and pepper to your
taste.
TO MAKE THE GNOCCHI: Drain the dasheen and
sweet potatoes before passing them through a ricer
into a large bowl. Add eggs and nutmeg and season to
your taste. Add flour slowly and evenly, stirring con
stantly to prevent lumps.
Bring a pot of slightly salted water to boil. Carefully
spoon the dasheen mixture into balls as neatly as pos
sible. Drop balls one by one into the boiling water.
Cook these dasheen gnocchi balls until they float,
about five minutes. Drain and add to the skillet with
the sauce. Serve warm with grated Parmesan,
Romano, or cheddar cheese as a main dish.


Dasheen Chips
1 pound dasheen, peeled and sliced about
1/8-inch thick
oil for frying
salt and spices to taste
Place dasheen slices in a large strainer or colander
and blanch them. Drain and dry with towels. Sprinkle
with onion, pepper or garlic salt and cook in hot oil
until golden brown. Drain and eat while warm as a
snack or side dish.

Dasheen Salad
2 medium onions, chopped
2 -1--- -f -.1-1- 1.;- ced
3 .... I. I -1 chopped
3 bunches of chives, chopped
6 red pimentos, chopped fine
3 Tablespoons canola oil
3 Tablespoons white vinegar
3 pounds dasheen peeled, boiled and cubed
12 green or black olives, sliced thin
1 Cup mayonnaise
Combine onions, garlic, parsley, chives and pimen
tos with the oil and vinegar. Add dasheen cubes, olive
slices and mayonnaise. Cool and serve.
Dasheen Puffs
2 pounds dasheen, peeled, chunked, boiled and
mashed
2 Tablespoons butter (or margarine)
1/4 Cup milk
1 egg, beaten
4 Tablespoons bread crumbs
1/4 Cup all-purpose flour
1 Cup canola oil for frying
salt and spices to taste
Combine mashed dasheen, butter, milk and egg into
a soft mixture. On a smooth flat surface, mix bread
crumbs and flour. With your hands, form balls of the
dasheen mixture and roll in the flour-and-bread
crumb mixture. Fry in hot oil until golden brown.
Serve hot as a snack or side dish.
Scalloped Dasheen
2 pounds dasheen, peeled, cooked and sliced
1 medium onion, sliced fine
1 bunch chives, chopped small
1 leaf chadon bene, chopped small
1/2 pound cheddar cheese, grated
1 ..
1 i/_ Cups milk
salt and spice to taste
Layer sliced dasheen in a greased baking pan.
Sprinkle with some of the onion, chives, chadon bene
and cheese. Repeat, alternating layers of sliced
dasheen with the onions, chives, chadon bene and
cheese. Save some cheese for the final touch. The top
layer should be dasheen.
Mix egg, milk, salt and spices and pour over the
dish. Sprinkle with grated cheese. Bake at 350 F for
45 minutes, or until top is golden brown. Serve hot as
a main or side dish.

For the Gardeners
Dasheen requires moist soil; along an irrigation or
i .... i, i .. .1 i Many people, likeme, grow a
I I,. .. i i ... i .1 i., the frontdrain to dress itup
with a tropical landscaping effect.
First fork the soil to a foot deep and a foot wide. Add
either a phosphate fertilizer or rotted manure to the
bottom of the forked ditch. Dasheen roots or suckers
are planted whole, three inches deep, two feet apart in
rows four feet apart.
Every two months, use a pound of rich phosphate
fertilizer mix (e.g. 7-30-20) for every hundred square
feet. Dasheen does not compete well against weeds
during the first three to four months after planting,
before its big leaf canopy is formed. The best method
of controlling weeds is to pull them by hand. This
should not be too difficult as the soil should be
moist. Water is the key ingredient to making dasheen
bush produce.
Dasheen is ready to harvest when the leaves turn
yellowish and the roots protrude from the ground.
Thismaybeinsixor ..i .. .. .. ... ..
tion, soil fertility and i i 1 1 .. i
usually stay in good condition until they start to
sprout again.


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I WHACHA GONNA DO WIs0 0TH 0LTHSE...


---'"rn ^ --ut a pasture carved from jungle just
.-ii I :as del Toro in Panama, I spot the
S I .. fruits I've ever seen. Judy Greene, a
delightful Bocatorena, calls them limes though they are
much larger and not green at all. Round and orange like
oranges, these baseball-size orbs are covered with warts.
Judy's husband, Tobe, plucks a lumpy specimen
from the tree, whacks it open with his machete and
hands me the two juicy halves. One sniff and my
mouth waters, making me wish for the rest of the fix
ings for a Margarita. I squeeze one of the halves and a
pale green juice dribbles down my elbow. I take a lick
and yikes! My mouth turns wrong side out, my eyes
cross. Tobe grabs his own mouth to cover his urge to
laugh but Judy doesn't bother to resist and her giggle
is another delight this fine morning.
There are dozens of these trees growing about the


Squeeze a sour -r,--- half and rub it
on meat or fish I I cooking. And I
even rubbed my wooden cutting board
"-ithb 7-.--,r -7 juice and rind it

Now if you're not lucky enough to
find wild sour oranges in your tropical
travels, you can substitute equal parts
regular orange juice and grapefruit
juice. Or you can get by with one part
sweet o.j. plus one part lemon or lime.
You get the idea.
One precaution, though: some citrus
fruits affect the way medications are
absorbed by your body. In Titusville,
Florida, for example, the home of Indian
River grapefruit, the local hospital bans


bu Mar HeckrotteAN
by Mary Heckrotte


hillside, pretty trees lending the crisp smell of limes to
the tropical air. Judy is known in these parts for her
way with plants, potting them, selling them to the new
homesteaders that arrive almost daily to make a home
in these gorgeous islands. "Judy," says I, "did you
plant this tree here?"
"Oh, no!" says she. "Me jus' fires him off and where
him land, him come right up."
Yeah, my kind of gardening! "So, what do you make
with these limes?" I ask Judy.
"We doesn't eat dem," Judy says. "De cows does."
Apparently this pitiful-looking fruit is shunned by
locals, never even getting to show its ugly warts at
market. But the very idea of a luscious-smelling citrus
going to waste seems a shame. Surely there is some
use. And thanks to ideas from the Internet, I now
believe there is.
Just exactly what sort of citrus fruit this specimen
might be is still unclear. Lime? Lemon? Sour orange?
I'd bet on sour -rint- th-i h its definitely not the
smooth-skinned I ........ I probably-pedigreed
Seville or Bergamot used for marmalades and
liqueurs. Let's just call this one a wild sour orange.
And hey, it works as a perfect substitute for all the
recipes from the Internet that call for sour -;--. i;;-
that I've tried so far. It is certainly just:. i ... ...
r. 1-. .. 1 .1 1 1:-- i In fact, so far, substituting
i i ... .. I ... i lemon or lime juice in ordi
nary recipes has been working just fine, too. For
example, wild sour oranges yield a pie every bit as
good as any made from Florida Key limes. Sour orange
juice keeps fruits such as mangoes, bananas and
apples from turning brown. You can add it to sauces,
cookies and breads, or spritz it on your salads.


all grapefruit juice for patients. This
wild sour orange may have the same
effect. You might want to ask your doc
tor if you should avoid citrus juices with
your particular prescription.
If you do spot trees overburdened
with ugly oranges, you'll likely have no
trouble getting permission to pick all
you can carry. But be careful: these
pretty, leafy trees hide half-inch long,
very wicked thorns. The thorns even
pierce the soles of my knock-off Croc .' .
shoes! Don't worry about what color .
fruit you pick, any shade from still -
7--ni to bright orange is quite fine :
.11 all, you can't get more sour
than sourest. But do try to pick the
fruits that feel especially heavy for their size as they
will be the ones that have the mostjuice inside. Being
uncultivated, these oranges have more seeds than
you're probably used to. But they'll strain out easily
enough once you've squeezed the juice. Just use any
juicer or squeeze. .... by hand.
My friend Joell I II a lady always open to
experimenting with local produce, thought she could
make lemonade from these wild sour oranges. Unable
to sweeten the juice enough for he. 1i, ,... -1le set her
jar of juice aside on the cabinet ... i i I about it
while she was away from home for a couple of weeks.
Oops! But to her delight, in her absence the juice had
fermented. She poured a bit over ice cubes and sipped.
Voila! She dubbed her delicious product "Hard
Lemonade" and brought jugs of it to the next potluck.
With happy grins all around, Joellen took home only


*' -' X -^ W'"- *' -


empty jugs. And thankfully, she shared her recipe.
Though I can't really tell there is any "alcohol" effect,
the taste is most refreshing at cocktail time and Hard
Lemonade is now a favorite on Camryka
In Mexico, says one website, folks cut sour oranges in
half and coat them with salt and a hot chili pepper paste.
(Appreciation of this concoction may require a genetic
predisposition which some of us surely lack.) From a
suggestion made by the natives of the Yucatan area,
however, we learn that sour oranges substitute quite
nicely for vinegar -and these wild ones do the job well.
Squeeze a little sour orange juice into your next rum
and cola or a vodka and tonic -don't forget to rub the
rim of your glass with a cut piece, too. And no doubt,
if you take a sack of wild sour -r1.;:- a shaker of
salt, and a bottle of tequila, y .. 11 I Icome at any
Happy Hour!
Continued on next page


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Continued from previous page
Joellen's Hard Lemonade
2 1/2 Cups water
1 1/4 Cups sugar
2 teaspoons grated sour orange peel
1 1/4 Cups sour orange juice
Put water and sugar into a saucepan over medium
high he .1, .... I I oil, stirring until sugar dis
solves. :.. ... .1 and let cool 20 minutes. Add
peel and juice. Pour into a jar or bottle and cover
loosely. Let sit at room temperature for 2 weeks (or so)
and then serve over ice cubes. Be sure you don't put a
tight lid on the container as fermentation may cause
the container to break.

Homemade Cuban Mojo Sauce
3 large heads of garlic, peeled, cloves crushed
2 teaspoons salt
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 1/2 Cups sour orange juice
1 Cup minced onion
2 teaspoons dried oregano leaves
3 Tablespoons minced parsley
1 Cup olive oil
Mix all ingredients except olive oil well, preferably in
a blender. Set aside at room temperature for at least
30 minutes. In a small saucepan over medium heat,
bring olive oil to about 280F (very hot!). Remove the
saucepan from the heat. Whisk in the -rli- .1-1 juice
mixture. Be very cautious as the oil ... I I and
splatter. Return the saucepan to medium heat and
bring to a full rolling boil. Taste and add more salt or
pepper if desired. Remove from heat and let cool to
room temperature. Store in a glass jar in the refriger
ator and shake well before using. Good on almost any
chicken, lamb, pork, beef, fish or seafood.

Wild Sour Orange Marinade
1 1/2 Cups sour orange juice
1/2 Cup olive oil
4 1-- -.i ,hed
2 -1 ..- 1. -1.1 ground black pepper
3 bay leaves, crushed
3 Tablespoons minced cilantro
Mix all ingredients in a plastic Zip-loc Bag. Add
pork, beef or chicken and marinate for one or two
hours. Meat can then be grilled or broiled.

Wild Orange Marinade for Fish and Seafood
1/4 Cup sour orange juice
1 teaspoon grated sour orange peel
1 Tablespoon olive oil
1 Tablespoon crushed tarragon
Salt to taste
Ground white pepper to taste
Combine all and pour over fish or seafood. Marinate
for 30 minutes. Grill or broil.

Wild Orange and Honey Fruit Salad Dressing
1 .. slightly beaten
1/ up sour orange juice
1/2 Cup honey
1/2 teaspoon salt
Freshly ground white pepper
1 teaspoon grated fresh ginger
1 Cup sour cream


Put all except sour cream in a small saucepan over
medium heat. Cook and stir until mixture thickens
slightly. Remove from heat and let cool 15 minutes.
Stir in sour cream. Put into a covered container and
chill before serving over fruit salad.

Sour Orange French Dressing
1/4 Cup sour orange juice
1 teaspoon dry mustard
1 teaspoon paprika
1 teaspoon seasoned salt
1 Tablespoon grated onion
1 teaspoon celery seed
1/2 Cup sugar
1 Cup olive oil
In a blender, mix all except olive oil. With blender
running, very slowly dribble in the oil. Store in a cov
ered jar. Serve with green salads.


Sour Orange Chimichurri
2 Cups parsley, stemmed, minced
10 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed
1 Cup olive oil
3 Tablespoons sour orange juice
1 teaspoon red pepper flakes
1 teaspoon salt
Freshly ground black pepper to taste
Combine all ingredients. Put in a covered glass jar
and keep refrigerated. Can be used right away but is
best after 2 days. Will keep several weeks. Great on
steaks and other meats.

Tandoori Marinade
1/2 Cup coconut milk
4 Tablespoons sour orange juice
2 teaspoon salt


2 garlic cloves, crushed
1 teaspoon freshly grated fresh ginger
1/2 teaspoon cumin seeds
1/2 teaspoon coriander
1/4 teaspoon turmeric
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1/8 teaspoon cinnamon
Pinch ground cloves
Mix all ..... i. until smooth. Marinate chicken,
pork, or 1 1 I hour then grill, stir-fry, or broil.
Extra marinade can be used to baste meat as it cooks.

Sour Orange Seviche
1 pound cleaned white fish fillets, soaked in salt
water for 10 minutes
1 Cup sour orange juice
1 onion, thinly sliced
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
Pinch cayenne
1 clove garlic, crushed
1 hot pepper, seeds removed and minced
2 Tablespoons minced parsley,
2 Tablespoons minced cilantro
Remove fish from salt water and pat dry with paper
towels. Cut fish into bite-sized pieces and place on a
platter. Cover with sliced onions. In a small bowl, mix
: .......... .,., i, and pour over fish. Place in
I: ,,. I i 1 -4 hours before serving.

Sour Orange Pie
8 ounces cream cheese, softened
1/3 Cup sugar
4 Tablespoons sour orange juice
1 carton Cool Whip (or prepared whipped topping mix)
1 graham cracker crust
Mix cream cheese, sugar, juice, and 6 ounces of Cool
Whip. Spread into r.... -racker crust. Put remain
ing Cool Whip on I i I Refrigerate for at least 3
hours before serving.

Sour Orange Bread
1 Cup sugar
2 Tablespoons sour orange juice
6 Tablespoons milk
2 eggs
6 Tablespoons butter, softened
1 1/2 Cups flour
1/2 teaspoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 Tablespoon sour orange peel, grated
1/2 Cup sugar
1/4 Cup sour orange juice
In a small mixing bowl, combine flour, baking
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skewer then pour glaze over all. Let cool completely
then slice to serve. Good with cream cheese.


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Dear Compass,
Congratulations on finding writers like Julia
Bartlett. Hers is the first name I look for when I open
the Compass and her article on Luperon in the April
issue was a gift from the gods, readable and fun, I am
on my way.
Stevie Morris
S/Y Mismo

Dear Compass,
In "Anchoring Habits and Questions" (April
Compass), Angelika Gruener criticized skippers for
bringing boats into an anchorage at night and passing
among anchored boats. She asks, "How to ward off
yachts if they want to anchor too close to you?" And in
the case of an accident, "How to get hold of the perpe
trator?" She also says that the skipper entering a har
bor at night "can't see the anchored boats."
While I sympathize with those who feel anxious
when someone navigates close by their yacht at night,
and even more so when damage is done, there is
nothing you can do to stop them. A good sailor can
see boats ..... 1 ... 1 .i she takes her time, thread
her way i i .. ...I. an anchorage. I know,
because in the days I was a professional charter skip
per, I often did so. (Charter schedules sometimes
have you arriving late.) Furthermore, professional
fishermen and other navigators have to do this all the
time. While you might think it would make more
sense for the arriving boat to anchor outside the fleet,
you cannot know whether an approaching yacht's
skipper intends to anchor. She may have a mooring
in among the anchored yachts and be going in to pick
it up, which is perfectly legitimate. (As is anchoring, if
she does it right.) It is true that it is harder to see at
night and takes a lot of concentration. For this reason
it is imperative those on anchored yachts don't do
really dumb stuff like shining i .. .- .1 the approach
ing boat and yelling things .1 .. can't anchor
here!", "What do you think you ar i .... or "Get
away from my boat!" It will end up ..I..-.... even an
experienced skipper and almost ensure an accident
with the less experienced.
To lessen the likelihood of getting hit you should,
as law requires, show an all-round light of the nec
essary visibility. You should NOT have a strobe
which, like being yelled at, is very distracting, and
likely to cause accidents. You can also light up your
cockpit with a cockpit light, which will make your
boat much more visible.
You cannot know where someone plans to drop an
anchor until they do, so you really have no choice but to
wait till it is done. At this point if you feel they have
anchored too close, it is your obligation to tell them so.
You cannot force them to move but telling them does give
you a good case in law, so enter the conversation in your
ship's log. If they do hit you, do not wait to get the details
. i ... ....... hen they may have moved on. Go right
I.. accident and get everything you need.
Remember to record the whole incident in your ship's log,
which might be used as evidence at a later date.
Apart from that I do not know what to suggest,
except if a bunch of cruisers really feel this is a prob
lem, they could raft up in a big circle with bows. ?-i -
out, like the old wagon trains of the Wild
Worked against Indians, why not bareboaters?
Editor's note: We apologize for losing this writer's
name. When sending letters as attachments, please
include your name on the letter as well as the e-mail
message to avoid this happening. Thanks.

Dear Forum,
My sailing mentor had an expression that I have
generalized, which occasionally comes to mind as I
read the Forum: "Ain't nothing like the sound of peo
ple jumping to conclusions." The Forum in general,
not a particular issue. I.;-1; li .-m -; .1- 1 moments
such as many months I i i--... rights in
which the "cruising" community seemed to conclude


that stealing copyright material is okay in cases where
it is more convenient than buying it -which, for the
cyber-savvy of today, is almost always. Or in cases
where it is cheaper to steal it.
Thanks for Doyle's letter in the April issue, and
Laura Sargent's March letter, regarding non-thinkers
who use strobes as anchor i..1. As an alternate line
to the one 1 .... --, I is the emergency?"),
mine is to .. ware that the only boat not
flashed by your strobe is yours?" If they answer
I'll affirm that it is so. If "yes", I will add, "Well,
then, in my opinion you are a(n) ___ (your choice)."
One Love,
Hutch
S/Y Ambia

Dear Compass,
In reply to Derrick Harvey's letter in the May issue
S. .. fishing anchor lights.
,i ...- lights are there to attract attention at
night -but to what? If we all decided arbitrarily what
lights to put on our boats (as he has) there would be
total chaos. Lets stick to the internationally agreed
light system. If, for instance, I see a stationary white
light, I know it is an anchored boat.
On my way here from Greece I have seen the follow
ing used as anchor lights: i.... i ...... i
green flashing (channel t i ... i 11 11.-,,,
(special mark).
If Mister Harvey wishes to disguise his boat as a
north cardinal buoy (continuous white flashing), then
I think he is being totally irresponsible.
If he is worried about being seen he should put in a
brighter bulb, but never, never try to confuse us as to
what his boat is.
Peter Boardman
Yacht Camille

Dear Compass,
A quick note in response to a quick note by the skip
per of Aldebaran II, Derrick Harvey. The proper lights
for a vessel at anchor are provided for in ColRegs.
i -- ---..... = captains realize that there
'.I I ... I I i.. i- .. most anchorages in addi
tion to normal anchor lights, but ..i,,.. ... Ies
push the limit because the normal -- I . - I is
in a man overboard or other emergency situation.
Therefore, a strobe light is not appropriate for casual
use; it has other uses, and casual use will degrade the
value of a strobe when it is truly needed. Sort of like
firing off a flare to see which way the wind is blowing.
Similarly, the us- -f 1runn;; li1 ht to more easily
find a vessel after ,. ,. .I I I .I I ".. shore ........
lights also have a "'I' I '" .. ColReg- .
the vessel is not underway, or "running", it need not
have them on. In fact, having them on when not
required is a somewhat arcane mode of distress sig
nal, sort of like flying a flag upside down.
In closing, some years ago I was sailing with family
up the Red Sea with a group of other yachts. There is
a lot of shipping in the Red Sea, and one boat sailed
with a masthead strobe going all night, to ward off the
commercial ships passing by. On arrival at Port
Sudan, the crew of that vessel told harrowing stories
of close passes all week long, despite their innovative
approach to i.. i. ... Ve were entertained at dinner by
the captain I . ... ship which had passed up the
Sea roughly the same time we had, and on learning
the t- f ...- 1 --1 ""-- --- the nitwit
w itl l.1 -i. I II I ... . . -i.. i. .. thought
he .
Captain Thomas Warner
Tortola, BVI

Dear Compass,
Derrick Harvey of Aldebaran II (the boat with the
flashing anchor light) wrote in response to Laura
Sargent's complaint about strobes used as anchor
lights: "Anchor lights are there to attract attention and
the better other sailors can see them, the less likely
there will be things that go bump in the night. Sorry
Laura, but you are barking up the wrong strobe here."
Derrick, I do not think she is. Yes, strobes do catch
attention; that is what they are for, and that is why
they make good emergency lights -and lousy anchor
lights. Imagine 'rin- t- pick up the quick flashing
light at one end i I of leading marks when you
have find it among a forest of yachts with 1 .i,,,,
strobes. Trying to navigate through a
anchored boats with strobe lights would be very dis
tracting and confusing.
Then there is just the aesthetic consideration; they
totally ruin the atmosphere of a beautiful Caribbean
night. Is there no poetry in your soul? Are the Tobago
Cays on a moonlight night with one hundred brightly
flashing strobes really what you came to the
Caribbean for?
Added to this there are legal considerations. The law
requires you have an all-round white light visible
while at anchor at night. I would think this means that
the light is showing all the time: not once an hour, not
once a minute, not once a second or half second.
The only ,i..... I .,, ,,, Ii .hing lights on yachts
approved ol i I1. -. I -; as emergency lights.
Continued on next page







Continued from previous page
If you know '.... 1,11 ,,I please tell us and tell
us the referee I .1
However, even if you can do this, keep in mind that
there are plenty of things you can legally do, but the
world is better off if you don't.
Chris Doyle
Ti Kanot

Dear Compass,
I read the letter about flashing anchor lights at night
and I have to agree -the collision regs were written a
long time ago and maybe its time the yachters took the
initiative and showed the way for some new guidelines.
In -n rl th i --- rnin f --r] frl ii..- I ill...

modem technology or what can be done with it.
I think the yachty with the flashing anchor ..1.1 is
not trying hard enough to be seen at night, all
know a flashing light is more visible than a steady all
round anchor light. He must take it to the next level
and paint his boat day-glo orange; that will make him
as visible as he can be.


with a bowline under everybody else's line so they can
go off in their 1....1. without worrying about refas
tening my line. i L t wonderful idea!" you all think.
Then, when I come back to let my dinghy go, I have to
untie all the lines that are tied over mine. I will tell you
what I will do in the future. I will tie all the lines in
such a mess that I will laugh all the way back to my
boat. I will splice the lines so that all you can do is cut
them. Then I will suggest that you all go back and ask
your fathers what is the correct way to tie a 1....1.
I get sick sometimes when I read all the '"'I .
in -t --t how the supposed cruisers should be
i I I in their .i.-1~i ri7 --- -n they don't even
know thebasic : I- I .... ..... i.. Think the latest
was that guy who declared that he was going to play
with his strobe in enclosed harbours, no matter that it
annoyed other harbour users. These people should be
made to take their toys back to Daddy and then ask
him if they can play with them if they are suitably
able or, more to the point, qualified to do so.
I am as always,
Mike East
S/Y Nostromo


Always pass to the north of a north cardinal.
.r__.C -.....a -----. ,.4 L.S PI.


NOTE: North Cardinal's characteristics, quick flashing white.


I also think the next thing he should do is put strobe
lights in his port and starboard navigation lights. This
should make him more visible at night; while under
way with the boat painted day-glo orange (all dark
colours such as blue, green, etcetera, should be
banned by law -not visible enough at night), he will
be very easy to spot. Just in case the flashing of the
: i ,, i.. I in sync with the wave motion
i:i. ,, i, ,, lie boat is in a trough -a clever
i .-i i. ... ..... could be installed to adjust the
flash rate to counteract this, modern electronics being
so good.
We all know big ships 1 ,'i 1 i 1 .... 1.
lookout for small boats. i i i ,,. i
fee or reading, never looking to the sides or behind.
Perhaps our intrepid sailor should do his best to
cross just ahead of all tankers, cruise liners, coast
ers and trawlers just to make sure they see him.
Maybe sounding his horn in short blasts to be on
the safe side -don't think short blasts mean any
i,,, wadays.
I forbid, he is still not seen and he gets run
down he can rest assured that while he is in his day
glo orange liferaft with a flashing strobe light on top he
will be as visible as he can be!
Unfortunately he probably won't get picked up
because we will all think that's the guy at anchor with
a strobe light.
We will now need to give some thought to what we
can use for the lights on cardinal buoys and port and
starboard buoys. It might be best remove the flashing
lights and fixed lights (these lights appear to be flash
ing when they dip below the wave crest) or they might
get confused with boats at anchor or boats under
way. Probably best not to have lights on buoys at all,
too confusing.
We don't want any confusion out there, its danger
ous enough. For safety's sake we all need to be on the
same t all times.
PS. '. .1 bout flashing headlights on the car at
night or a bank of flashing orange lights on top or even
flashing blue light with siren. Lots of room for
improvement here, don't you think?
PPS. Now, about Union Jacks being used as ensigns....
Paul Frost
Silver Ankh

Hello, all you supposed cruisers,
I will tell you all about something a lot of you don't
know about. It is called courtesy.
For example, I tie my dinghy up at a dinghy dock


Dear Compass,
My partner and I read with interest the complaint
in May's Readers' Forum about the treatment
received at the Immigration, Customs, and Port
Control Office at Jolly Harbour, Antigua. We too
went in to the Immigration office with a smile and
greeting to be met by the most officious and rude
behaviour ever experienced in all the islands we
have checked in to. The female in charge seemed to
delight in throwing her weight arc;n-1 l- irl-i;;-
glances to her male colleague and i ...... i,,,. i..
subservience from us lowly visitors. -
pletely unfriendly and unprofessional in her behav
iour. While we respect that officials have a job to do
(I had a 25-year career in the Civil Service Public
Sector, dealing with Customer Service), this lady
was not interested in pleasantries. We left her
office feeling that we had committed some crime by
visiting Antigua and it was only at her personal
discretion we were not -i;; t- be impounded! As
we then had to wait I an hour for the
Customs Officer to turn up, we had plenty of
opportunity to watch her behaviour with everyone
else and it made interesting viewing. Port Control
was a relief and the ladies in that office were pro
fessional and very pleasant.
That said about Jolly Harbour, a week later we went
to the airport to collect a friend who was visiting us
for two weeks. She came out of the airport in tears
and totally stressed with an Immigration lady in tow,
who seemed to have a problem recognizing that our
friend would be staying on our sailing yacht for the
entire trip!
We love Antigua but several conversations with oth
ers have shown we are becoming a little bit nervous
and tired of the way visitors are treated by some
I........ . .. flicers and it should be brought to the
.11 .. i. .. 1 11 Tourist Board. The French islands are
a 1 1.1 1i beck in to; very courteous, polite and
pa1 .II ,' I Oh yes, and they don't have a radio or
television on! How unprofessional is that?
The only other place I came out : i,.. I had been
slapped across the face with a I I.-1. was in
Portsmouth, Dominica, where the Immigration Officer
made a huge thing of the fact that he thought (bless
him) I had aged -badly -since my passport was
issued eight years ago. My partner tried to sweeten
things by saying to me that I was even more beautiful,
but the 1 .I.;- was done and I'm now convinced I
need a f Ia
Continued on next page


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Continuedfrom previous page
Please leave my name out of it as that woman terri
fies me.
Name Withheld by Request

Dear Compass Readers,
We asked John Duffy, President of the Antigua &
Barbuda Marine Association, for his response,
which follows.
CC

Dear Compass,
I am sorry to hear of another similar incident at
Jolly Harbour.
Once again, please extend my apologies on behalf of
the Antigua & Barbuda Marine Association to your cor
respondents. I have forwarded their complaint to the
appropriate authorities. On 16th May the Government
is holding a yachting symposium which will include
the Prime Minister and the Minister of Tourism. The
Immigration Service is high on the agenda.
There are two things I would like to address arising
out of these incidents, firstly, both correspondents
have withheld their names on the grounds of feared
future discrimination. One is to presume from this
that they intend to return to Antigua at some time in
the future and have not been entirely deterred from
this otherwise beautiful country.
Secondly, I would request that you do not publish this
second letter. Tens of thousands of people -,i ..i..... ,
each year without incident but one never .. ,,
good experiences. By publishing a few bad experiences
the damage done to the tourist industry of Antigua is
totally disproportionate to the incidents.
As I said in my previous letter, there is no excuse for
this type of behaviour and the Government needs to
know of them so that corrective action can be taken,
however, I am not convinced that a public forum such
as Compass is a good medium in which to air these
views unless they are countered by a representative
selection of good experiences. It gives an unbalanced
view of what is undoubtedly a problem but only a
problem experienced by a very small minority.
If your correspondents care to contact me direct I
will happily place them in touch with Government offi
cials who, I am sure, will wish to extend their own
apologies.
Yours sincerely,
John J. Duffy, President
Antigua & Barbuda Marine Association

Dear John,
Thank you for your prompt response andfor bringing
our correspondents' concerns to the attention of the
appropriate authorities.
It does indeed sound as though both letter writers
enjoy Antigua and intend to revisit, but would prefer to
not have their names known to the Immigration officer in
question, in case she might be on hand to give them an
even "warmer" welcome the next time. However, the
writer of the letter above has subsequently provided the
times and dates of the incidents so that the Immigration
officer in question can be identified and, one hopes, given
assistance with building her customer service skills.
We understand your concerns about these two letters
vis-a vis the greater number of visitors to Antigua who
have not had this sort of bad experience. But people
who receive a courteous and professional reception
when clearing into a country tend not to write to us
about it -it is expected. And when readers write to us
about a negative experience with a representative of a
national government, by publishing such letters it is def
initely not our intention to damage the tourist industry of
the country in question. On the contrary, in the long run
our goal is to improve the situation across the board.
Word of any negative incident is inevitably and immedi
ately circulated on the yachts' "grapevine" via radio,
internet and word of mouth, often with a certain amount
of "Chinese whispers" exaggerating the original version.
Compass is often in the position of being able to publish
a first hand report and then, by bringing the report to
the attention of a relevant authority, adding balance
with reliable news about any steps being taken to
address the situation -such as those currently being
taken in Antigua. (See "Antigua Holds Yachting
Symposium" in this issue's Info & Updates, page 5.)
Also, the ongoing inclusion of positive reports in our
pages (see other items in this month's Info & Updates
and Regatta News, for example) provide our readers with
a clear indication that there are great numbers of "happy
campers" regularly visiting Antigua, as elsewhere.
Best regards,
Sally

Dear Compass,
As a cruiser continually trying to manage my
onboard electrical supply, I looked forward to reading
"Managing Your Onboard Power" by Glyn Johnson in
your May issue. This otherwise useful article is full of
confusion about the terms "energy" and "power".
Confusing energy and power is like confusing distance
and speed. Just as distance is speed multiplied by
time, energy is power multiplied by time.
The article repeatedly uses the terms "amps per
hour" and amps/hour. The useful units for onboard


energy are amp-hours (assuming a 12V system),
which is amps multiplied by hours. While you may
think this little punctuation difference (a dash rather
than a slash) is unimportant, it implies a very differ
ent arithmetic operation: multiplication rather than
division. You wouldn't figure the distance that you
would cover at five knots in two hours by dividing five
by two, but rather by multiplying them to get ten nau
tical miles.
Infairr. -- i i i .... i i .
justthe .. . ..-. ,,, .
Also in the article, the term "energy" is used when
"power" is intended. For example, the paragraph con
training, "Many people would consider an electrical
head as taking too much power..." goes on to calculate
the energy, not the power. An electrical head is a high
power device (16 amps in the article), but the point is
that it is not a big energy consumer (one amp-hour a
day in the article), because it is not used for much
time. Continuing the parallel, you wouldn't say a boat
has good speed and then quote the speed as distance
in nautical miles (speed multiplied by time).
I o .11 ; .. but I ,....i .. I the point. The arti
cle i ..' i.1 this .... .. .. could clear this up
in the editorial process. This subject is confusing
enough. There is no need to introduce more.
By the way, the article would more correctly have
been titled "Managing your Onboard Energy".
Kim Ahlers
Kewaydin

Dear Kim,
Thanks very much for your corrections and clarifica
tions. We would have cleared this up in the editorial
process if any of the three of us who proofread the
article had recognized that there was a problem!
Unfortunately, we all seem to be Luddites when it
comes to the subject of electrical terminology, and we
suspect many of our readers are a bit unclear on this,
too. We very much appreciate knowledgeable readers
such as yourself taking the time to write and set things
straight when necessary.
CC

Dear Compass Readers,
Every morning on SSB 8104 we hear words and
phrases such as "shall we go", "and up (or down)
thi" ";;-- roger", "pick a frequency", "this is",
"- .1 ,. I could go on and on. It's reaching the
stage that it's becoming difficult to make a call
because of the verbal clutter. Presumably people
aren't ignoring correct radio procedures; perhaps they
just don't know them. So here goes.
The single most important protocol to remember is
i 11, -.I, ... .... the call controls the call. To
I i i ,,, I i i ,1 somebody calls you, it's your
responsibility to check for a clear frequency before
responding.
As an example, let's assume the fictional yacht
Sunrise is calling us (Kelly's Eye). The conversation
should go:
"Kelly's Eye, Kelly's Eye, Sunrise."
(Kelly's Eye checks for a clear frequency and then
responds.)
"Sunrise, Kelly's Eye, .1, one five five."
"Sunrise eight one five I,
That's it. Any additional words are a total waste of
bandwidth -and it applies to the VHF nets, too.
Could I also make another plea about 8104? Surely
everybody knows that the Safety and Security Net is
on from 0815 to 0830 hours every day. So why do peo
ple call other boats during that time? Just because
you can't hear Melodye doesn't mean she isn't on.
Therefore, unless it's an emergency or you are
involved in the Net, please don't make calls then.
Mike Cobbe
S/Y Kelly's Eye

Dear Compass,
I work in the aviation field and I often get copies of
the Compass. I must say your newspaper is one of the
best I have ever seen.
The color is just right for the type of paper it is print
ed on, the ink does not come out on the dear reader's
hands (like others I have seen), the wording is in per
fect English, the pictures are fine shots taken of local
sites on land and sea which excite the reader's to wish
to travel to the places they see.
Thank you for also featuring history, which to me is
showing the hard work done by our people in the past
-the proud history of our Caribbean.
I wish the entire staff much success. Since the name
of the newspaper is "Compass" I am sure it will point
to the future, a good future indeed.
Tony Ramesar
Trinidad & Tobago

Dear Compass,
We left Cartagena, Colombia, in late January and
headed for the -, 1 .. ..i i,, ,- , i ,
we spent the r, I i Ii i i i
island. They a. . 1
palm trees and with white beaches. Ti i ii,. ..
okay but not brilliant, and the fishing ,- ,I
Continued on next page







Continued from previous page
One can however get lobsters and crabs in season and we enjoyed some of these.
The crabs are huge. The lobsters are not, though, as all the big ones are exported to
the US.
In mid-March we were out of supplies and so we left for the port city of Colon
which is the Caribbean/Atlantic entrance to the Panama Canal. Here we sadly bid
farewell to our buddy cruisers, Wayne and Bibi on Discovery, as they are headed
back to Texas and we want to return to the San Bias. We did, however, meet up
again with Karl and Mary Lou on Starlight Dancer which was lovely.
Friends of ours on the yacht Promesa were transitting the canal and needed line
handlers so we went with them through the Panama Canal and what an experience
that was. It is enormous, and the lake in the central part is huge. The scenery and
vegetation are spectacular to say the least. That was an experience to remember.
At the same time we both developed medical/dental problems which we had to
get sorted out and which are now a thing of the past. My knee, which collapsed
and which we thought would have to be operated on immediately, has improved
so we are waiting to see what develops with it. If it goes again I will have it oper
ated on here in Panama.
We are now just sorting out a few odds and ends and then will head back to the
San Bias before the Chocosana season starts. These are storms with winds of
around 50 knots and are most unpleasant. The rainy season has already started
and, boy, when it rains, it buckets down.
Colon is nothing to speak of other than the good supermarkets, but the facilities
related to the Panama Canal are very good thanks to the legacy left by the US. We
just hope the Panamanians maintain it and don't let it decay as the city of Colon has.
Roger and Frankie Marshall
Yacht Infinity

Open Letter in Support of Whale Protection
This is a statement issued by CARIBwhale and others involved in or supporting
the whale-watch industry in the Caribbean. We the undersigned urge Caribbean and
other delegates to the upcoming International -- .1.... -, mission (IWC) meeting
to vote against any resumption of commercial .. . whaling. [Editor's note:
The 59th meeting of the IWC is taking place May 28 to 31, as this issue of Compass
goes to press.]
The statement was issued at the close of a five-day whale-watch tour guide/oper
ator workshop which took place from May 14 to 18 in Dominica.
We the undersigned, empl ii i .. I i i .1 i i,,,,,,, i..
tryinthe Caribbean, have Ii i ,, ...... ,1, i
i,,.I.iI.. II. i . I i. ...-li h I I I. ............. h
ii i ailing on our own governments and others attending the 59th
meeting of the IWC to consider the legitimate aspirations of our region and to take
seriously their responsibility for protecting the tourism industry and thus the
economies of the region.
Signed,
Andrew Armour, CARIBwhale Inc/Anchorage Whale Watch Dive Center,
Dominica
Petra Charles, Anchorage Whale Watch Dive Center, Dominica
Pernell Fagan, Anchorage Whale Watch Dive Center, Dominica
Derek Perryman, CARIBwhale Inc, Dominica
Daniel Perryman, Dive Dominica, Dominica
Augustus Bernard, Dive Dominica, Dominica
Gerard Sharplis, Rendezvous Tours, Dominica
Ishanna Emmanuel, Rendezvous Tours, Dominica
Jesse Armour, Whale Dive.org, Dominica
Fitzroy Armour, Whale Dive.org, Dominica
Ignatius Mitchell, Fisherman, Dominica
Joseph Thomas, Fisherman, Dominica
William Lawrence, AL Dive, Dominica
Dave D. Fabien, AL Dive, Dominica
Jerry Daway, Island Style Fishing Charters, Dominica
Lambert Charles, Lambee & Sons, Dominica
Simon Walsh, Dominica Watersports Association, Dominica
Nigel Riviere, Dominica Youth Environmental Organization, Dominica
Inelle Laville, International Fund for Animal Welfare, Dominica
Michael Johnson, International Fund for Animal Welfare, Dominica
Richard McCaulay Friends of Nature, Belize
Janeen Bullard, Bahamas National Trust, Bahamas
Kim Beddall, CARIBwhale, Inc/Samana Bay Boat Owners Association,
Dominican Republic
Tahera Benjamin, First Impressions, Inc, Grenada
Albert Christopher, First Impressions, Inc, Grenada
Noyle Bailey, Caribbean Youth Environmental Network, St. Vincent & the
Grenadines
Yohan Little, Caribbean Youth Environmental Network, St. Vincent & the
Grenadines
Earl Halbich, Fantasea Tours, St. Vincent & the Grenadines
Kim Halbich, CARIBwhale Inc/Fantasea Tours, St. Vincent & the Grenadines
Ronnell Small, Fantasea Tours, St. Vincent & the Grenadines
Hallam Daize, Sea Breeze Nature Tours, St. Vincent & the Grenadines
Caroline Aimable, Mystic Man Tours, St. Lucia
Lionel Pinard, Captain Mike Charters, St. Lucia
Jason Moise, Hackshaw Boat Charters, St. Lucia
Paul Hackshaw, CARIBwhale Inc/Miss-T Charters, St. Lucia
Micky Lamontagne, Hackshaw's Boat Charters, St. Lucia
Pernel Johnny, Caribbean Youth Environmental Network, St. Lucia
Crisey Darcheville, Caribbean Youth Environmental Network, St. Lucia
Joth Singh, International Fund for Animal Welfare, United States of America
Kelvin Alie, International Fund for Animal Welfare, United States of America
Kate Nattrass, International Fund for Animal Welfare, United States of America
Olive Andrews, International Fund for Animal Welfare, Australia

Dear Compass Readers,
We want to hear from YOU!
Please include your name, boat name or address, and a way we can contact you if
clarification is required.
We do not publish individual consumer complaints or individual regatta results com
plaints (kudos are okay!). We do not publish anonymous letters; however, your name
may be withheld in print at your request.
Letters may be edited for length, clarity and fair play.
Send your letters to:
sa3ly@caribbeancompass.com or fax (784) 457 3410 or
Compass Publishing Ltd.
Readers' Forum,
Box 175BQ, Bequia, St. Vincent & the Grenadines


DYNAMrE 51111
YACHr MANAGEMENT BSES
SIONERSY ARD. CHAGUARAMA&S. THINIAD. W.I.
Tok 18) 634.4W / 634-B8 Fax: (868) 634-4269
Contact Fran.es at dynamite@tstt.neLttt
www.yacbtwudd.com/dymmitmhrbwHraga &( J FS
www.dynamitminaiw.com

Large selection of Yachts h Power Boats
MooflO ODnobD& MW aUM(G


flak


DON EL4 E


heather@bayoslndyactts.cn, aluin@bayislandyacht.cm


ST. THOMAS YACHT SALES
Compass Point Marina, 6300 Est. Frydenhoj, Suite 28,
St. Thomas, U.S.V.I. 00802

Tel: (340) 779-1660
Fax: (340) 779-2779
yachts@ islands.vi

43' 1984 Young Sun Pilothouse, 53' 1968 Gallant
Bluewater Cruiser Classic Van de Stadt Design
$119,000 Sail $170,000

40' 1987 O'Day Sloop 2 strms, new engine, well maintained $ 78,000
43' 1979 Young Sun Bluewater cruiser, AP, radar, liferaft $115,000
44' '82 Ta Chiao CT Canoe Stern, Perkins 4-108 $105,000
50' '90 Morgan Catalina, 3 strm, new eng, chain plates $145,000


Power
32' 2003 Sea Ray Sundancer Low hrs, great weekender
36' 1989 Grand Banks Trwl, Classic, Twin Cummins
42' '81 Post Sportfish Twin DD's, very good condition
48' '89 Hi Star Trawler Sundeck, 3 strms, 375HP Cats


$125,000
$170,000
$159,900
$100,000


Call, fax or visit our website for a complete list of boats for sale
www.stthomasyachts.com





B.V 1. YACHT SALES
Located at Nanny Cay Marina
SAIL
64' Haj Kutter Schooner, Square rigged, 3cab/2hd'30 $475K 40'Jeanneau Sun Odyssey, 3cabi2hd '00 $112K
60' Palomba Cust. Pilothouse CC, 5 cabl2hd '70 $119K 38' Hunter 380, 3cabllhd '99 $ 89K
54' Hylas CC, 3 cabl2hd, Immaculate condition'99 $739K 37' Jeanneau Sun Ody. 2cab/lhd, Motivated '00 $109K
54' Gultstar 54, 3cabi2hd, Luxurious&spacious '86 $349K 37' Beneteau Idylle, 3cab/2hd, Super maintained!'87 $ 59K
52' Jeanneau Su Ody, 3cab/3hd Loaded! '03 $405K 37' CSY 37 Cutter, 2cab/2hd Good upgrades '78 $ 45K
51' Formosa Cust. Ketch CC, 3 cab/3hd '80 $199K 36' Tiburon, lcab/lhd Solid cruiser! '76 $ 47K
50' Beneteau 50, Cutter, 5cab/5hd '02 $329K 36' Beneteau M362, 2cab/lhd, LowestonMarket! '00 $ 75K
47' Vagabond, Ketch CC, 2cab/2hd '87 $269K 36' Jeanneau Sun Odyssey, 2cabllhd '99 $ 65K
46' Kelly Peterson, 2cabl2hd, Immaculate! '83 $199K 36' Hunter Vision 36, 2cab 1 owner since new!'92 $ 59K
46' Formosa Peterson, 2cab/2hd, Many upgrades '79 $125K 35' O'Day, 2cab/lhd, Great condition '87 $ 42K
46' Hunter 460, 3cabl 2hd 2 avail, from '00 $149K
45' Jeanneau Sun Ody. 3cabi3hd '99 $149K MULTIHULLS
45' Bombay Explorer, 2cabi2hd World cruiser! '78 $ 59K 46' Fountaine Pajot Bahia 4cab/4hd,2availfrom...'01 $370K
44' Beneteau 44CC, 2cab/2hd, In great shape! '94 $189K 45' Prout Catamarans, 2 cab Never chartered! '95 $260K
44' CSY 44 2cab/2hd, Reduced Motivated! '77 $ 85K 42' Lagoon, 4cab/2hd, Extensive upgrades '92 $269K
44' CSY Walkover, 2cabi2hd, Great condition! '79 $165K 42' Solaris Cat, 4cabi4hd, in Rio Dulce '86 $119K
43' Jeanneau Sun Odyssey, 4cab/2hd, 2 avail. '01 $175K 40' Fountaine Pajot Lavezzi, Owner's Version '03 $295K
43' Mason, 2cabllhd, World Cruiser! '81 $119K 37' Heavenly Twins, 2cab/2hd '92 $ 59K
43' Serendipity, 2cab/lhd, Performance Cruiser '81 $ 49K
43' Nautor Swan, 2cab/lhd, Great price '70 $ 79K POWER
42' Dutour Gibsea, 2 cabl2 hd, Well maintained!'01 $129K 56' Horizon Motor yacht, Immaculate condition! '01 $690K
42' J Boat J/130, 2cabllhd, Fully equipped! '93 $199K 50' Hatteras Sportfisherman, 3 cab/2 head '81 $295K
42' Hunter, 2cabi2hd, New Listing '03 $199K 48' Horizon 48 Motor Yacht, 3 cabI3 head '00 $310K
41' Morgan 416, Ketch, 2cabl2hd '83 $ 78K 42' Nova Marine Trawler, Sundeck trawler '98 $249K
40' Island Packet, 2cab/2 hd, New Listing '98 $219K 42' Hershine 42, Motor yacht 4 cab/4 head '89 $ 99K
40' Beneteau M405, 3cab/2hd, Loaded! '95 $119K 36' Heritage East 36 2caba2hd, 2 avail from '01 $187K
40' Baytield, 2cab/2 hd, New Listing! '84 $ 99K 35' Maxum SCR 3500, 2 cab/I head '01 $129K
40' Catalina 400, 2cab/2hd, New Listing '95 $119K 27' Eastern 27 Down East, 1 cab '06 $ 99K
P.O Box 638, Road Town, Tortola, British Virgin Islands
Tel: 284-494-3260 Fax: 284-494-3535 e-mail: bviyachtsales@surfbvi.com
website: www.bviyachtsales.com / Call for a complete list of over 70 boats









IL I S ") I F.


S/Y HURRICANE 72' KETCH
Mahogany on Oak & Teak,
130hp Ford Lehman, 15kw
Northern ghts Gen. Built 1967
Kawasald Yards, Japan. Running
condition. US$180ODD Capt
r.-. T -iJ J-. 513 Email
-, : 1,1: ,.,, : : i

52' IRWIN KETCH Tel (868) 650-
1914 E-mail jandutch@tstt.nettt
1985 GOZZARD 36 Self sufficient
cruising bot with lots of extras.
New support and compresion
post, new inteor floor, new Alum
water tank, ICOM SSB. WAAS
GPS solor & wind, 12v cold plate
fi. 3 burner stove & oven, PUR
Swatemakerr, full cover
awning w/flcps and rail covers,
dr down transom, custom


fortale and spacious vessel.
Well mntained 6 berhs ful l
equipped. US$7500 Tel
(596) 696-07429 E-mail
cdmisl @hotmdl.com
"FANCY SAILOR" 33' RACER,
foam sandwich construction
elliptical lead keel, new jib &
stack pack main, 5hp OB. At
Barbados Yacht Club US$800
Tel (246) 231-0464 E-mail
rincon@caribsur.com
CMS YACHT BROKER Hallberg
Rassy 45 $350K/US, Hallberg 45
P.O.A., Custom Ketch 40'
100k,72 Pwr Cat, P.O.A., 45'
Roberts 95K/US, 42 Roger
Simpson Cat, 86K/US, 52 Grand
Sdeil 285K/US. 44 Bavaria, 150
Euro, 34 San Juan, 40K/US, 36'
Pearson, 45K/US, 40' Van der
Stadt. 139K/US, Trinidad,
Tel (868) 7396449


12m x 6.6m x 60C0kg, 2 x 27cv
ennes. Marc Espanon design,
built by La Griffe Marine.
Revlufionary boat in good con-
dfion and resoncbly pced at
US$6CK/neg. Fa more info call
Olveror Dali Tel (784) 458-888
PEARSON 30 BUILT 1973, new
Yanmar 2GM20, newAwlgip, 2
jibs, 2 mns spinnaker, V, CD,
wheel steering, lots more.
Good condition US$30000
E-mail nicdal 11 @bequia.net







1986 BENETEAU 51 Nice condi-
tion plenty of new upgades
ready to sail, ocaed Palm
Island, SVG. Info on
www.artandsea.com
Tel (784) 458-8829 E-mail
palmdoc caribsurf.com
1986 GRAND SOLEIL 39 Needs
new skeg & rudder. Full elec
tronics, new teak deck '05.
Equipped for ocean crossing
includes dinghy/OB. Lying St.
Maarten. US$6500 Contact
CMS Tel (284) 494-2091
WESTSAIL 32, proven word cruis-
er, in US Virgn Islands. New rig-
ing, good sails, Vdvo 36hp low
hrs. lovely redwood intenor, 5
berths, new dinghy, loads of
equipment. Safe and capable.
US$3500 Tel(340)513-4668







50 FERRO CEMENT KETCH 1974,
built in Durban So. Africa. Vetus
42hp desel, 400hrs 2034, 2 wind-
generators, Simrad auto pilot 04,
kitchen cooler/freezer, 3 dbl
bed, bathroom, elec windass,
cruise 6 kIts, max 9 knts, 2 furling
jibs, AwlGlip personal paint, hur-
ricane proof ready go. Euros
25,000 Tel (473) 538-468
E-mail fashionboat@ydhoo.fr


30' MIURA SLOOP 1982 built
So. Africa, fully equipped for
cruising. Currently in Antigua,
8 aluminium-bottomed
dinghy/suncover, hull treat-
ed with 5 coat Westcoat"
epoxy system 2 years ago,
last anti-fouled June 06,
inventory & photos on
request. US$30,000 E-mail
notehoutbay@yahoo.com
J-29 "GENERATION" (BVI regis-
tered) based in Trinidad. New
paint & bottom, Yamaha
15hp OB, 8 sails (racing &
cruising), excellent condition,
Tacktick wireless compass,
new ST40 speed/depth, etc.
Ready to race! US$17,000
i 0 -. .. E-mail









GALLANT 53 18 builtto Uoyds
specs. Refit 300-3004. Sdolar pan-




lancasterbrian@hotail.com


MASTS TURBULENCE GRENADA
has 3 masts suitable for
mono/multihulls. 16-17 & 22
i .,,: ,i i.,: d i :: ,

36HP YANMAR OUTBOARD
DIESEL Tel (868) 650-1914 E-
mail jandutch@tstt.net.tt


FRIENDSHIP BAY, BEQUIA
Lovely 1250 sq ft. cottage, 10
yards from beach. 2 master
bedrooms, 1 guest bedroom,
full kitchen, laundry, level with
road nostairs! 12,558 sq f of
land, fenced with mature
fruit frees. US$320,000, Term
rental available. E-mail
jocelyne.gautier@wanadoo.fr

CARRIACOU, ONE ACRE LOTS
and multi acre tracts. Great
views overlooking Southern
Grenadines and Tyrrel Bay
www.caribtrace.com

GRENADA LaPASTORA, ST.
DAVID Prime location for Eco-


tourism project With 2 bed-
room, 2 bath Japanesse style
house on 4 acres of cultivated
land. House designed for
easy expansion. Tel (473)
J,.. *E. ,., E-mail



PUERTO LA CRUZ, VENZ. INSUR-
ANCE SURVEYS, electric prob-
lems and yacht deliveries. Tel
: i: :- J .. J- 1 -7


NIMROD'S RUM SHOP, GRENADA
Eggs, bread, cheese, ice on
sale. Taxi service available,
propane tank fill-up,
personal laundry service.
Happy Hour every day from 5-
6pm Moonlight party every
full moon. VHF16








CAPT YANNIS DAY TOUR
CATAMARANS Every day of
the year. Sail out of Union
Island to Tobago Cays-
Mayero-Palm Island. Drinks
Lunch, Snorkel included. Tel:
(784) 458-8513 E-mail
yannis@caribsurf.com
www.captainyannis.com

WATERMAKERS Complete sys-
tems membranes, spares and
service avdlcble at Curacao
and Puerto La Cruz, Venezuela.
Check our prices at
www.watercraflwatemcker.cmrn
In PLC Tel (58) 416-3824187

DISASTER MITIGATION CON-
SULTANT, PROTECT YOUR
DREAM, Caribbean busi-
ness/home prevention
reports compiled & complet-
ed in 2 hrs. 25 years engi-
neering, OHSA experience in
large structures, take correct
prevention before storm
season. Creative Syndi-
cated Craftsman E-mail
montclair100@hotmail.com
wVW creativesyndicateconsultants com


CAPABLE MARINE ELECTRONIC
it=:H ll,:=ar i : .- Box


COMMERCIAL


DIVERS


TORTOLA WAREHOUSE MAN-
AGER Mus --
skills, be : -
have previous experience in
parts or warehouse manage-
ment or inventory manage-
ment and :
sess good
and be a -
other
BVIhelpwanted@hotmail.com

TURBULENCE GRENADA LTD
RIGGING TECHNI-
SAILMAKER to be
trained for our new loft open-
ing at Genada Marine
Please send CV; E-mail
turbsail@spiceisle com

MARINE TECHNICIAN WANTED
IMMEDIATELY Respected
marine engineering Co in
Grenada seeking all round
experienced technician for
electrical, electronics, diesel &


EC$1/US 400 per word -
include name, address
and numbers in count. Line
drawings/photos accom-
panying classified are
EC$20/US$8 additional per
half inch. Check or
International money order
in EC$ or US$ payable to
Compass Publishing must
accompany order.
Deadline is the 15th of each
month, preceding the
month of issue. Copy
received after deadline will
be held for next issue. Send
copy, photo and payment
to: Compass Publishing, PO
Box 175, Bequia, St. Vincent
and the Grenadines.
Fax: (784) 457-3410 or
tom@caribbeancompass.com


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I ADVERTISERS INDEX


A&C Yacht Brokers
Admiral Yacht Insurance
Alkane Trinidad
Anjo Insurance
Art Fabrlk
AVP Yachbng
B & C Fuel Dock
Barefoot Yacht Charters
Bay Island Yachts
Bequia Beachfront Villas
Bichik Services
Boat Doctor
Bogles Round House
Bougainvilla
Budget Marine
BVI Yacht Sales
Canvas Shop
Caralbe Greement
Caralbe Yachts
Carenantilles
Carene Shop
Caribbean Propellers Ltd
Caribbean Yachting BJ Inc
Caribbean Star Airlines


LOCATION
Martinique
UK
Trinidad
Antigua
Grenada
Mabnique
Petite Martinique
St Vincent
Trinidad
Bequla
Martinique
Trinidad
Carriacou
Union Isand
Sint Maarten
Tortola
Grenada
Martinique
Guadeloupe
Martinique
Martinique
Trinidad
St Lucia
Antigua


Caribbean Yacht Works
Skipper Courses
CIRExpress
Clarke's Court
Cooper Marine
Corea's Food Store Mustique


Trinidad
Bequla
St Maarten
Grenada
USA
Mustique


Curagao Marine Curagao
Dockwise Yacht Transport Sari Marbnique
Dominica Marine Center Dominica
Dopco Travel Grenada
Down Island Real Estate Carriacou
Doyle Offshore Sails Barbados
Doyle Offshore Sails Tortola
Doyle's Guides USA
Echo Marine Jotun Special Trinidad
Errol Flynn Marina Jamaica
Fernando's Hideaway Bequla
First Mate Trinidad
Flamboyant Beachside Terrace Grenada
Flamboyant Owl Bar Grenada
Flying Fish Ventures Grenada
Food Fair Grenada
Grenada Marine Grenada
Grenadines Sails Bequla


3 lolaire Enterprises
18 Island Dreams
20 Island Water World
14 Johnson Hardware
34 Jones Maritime
17 JYA
4 KP Marine
13 Lagoon Marina Hotel
9 Latitudes & Attitudes
54 LeShip
'8 Mac's Pizza
1 Maranne's Ice Cream
2 Maritime Yacht Sales
35 Mclntyre Bros Ltd
5 Mid Atlantic Yacht Services
'5 Navimca
23 Northern Lights Generators
20 Paradise Boat Sales
23 Peake Yacht Brokerage
'3 Perkins Engines
'9 Peters & May Yacht Shipping
18 Petit St Vincent
'7 Ponton du Bakoua
4 Porthole Restaurant


UK
Grenada
Sint Maarten
St Lucia
St Crolx
Grenada
St Vincent
St Vincent
USA
Martinique
Bequla
Bequla
St Thomas
Grenada
Azores
Venezuela
Tortola
Anbgua
Trinidad
Tortola
UK
PSV
Martinique
Bequla


Quantum Pure Alre
Renaissance Marina
Santa Barbara Resorts
Sea Services
Silver Diving
Simpson Bay Marina
Soper's Hole Marina
Spice Island Marine
St Thomas Yacht Sales
Superwind
SVG Air
Thomas Peake & Sons
Tikal Arts & Crafts
Trade Winds Cruising
True Blue Bay
Turbulence Sails
Tyrrel Bay Yacht Haulout
Vemasca
Virgin Gorda Yacht Harbour
Volles Assistance
Wallace & Co
Wallllabou Anchorage
Xanadu Marine


USA
Aruba
Curagao
Martinique
Carriacou
St Maarten
Tortola
Grenada
St Thomas
Germany
St Vincent
Trinidad
Grenada
Bequla
Grenada
Grenada
Carriacou
Venezuela
Virgin Gorda
Martinique
Bequla
St Vincent
Venezuela













Home for the



Hurricane Season

by Julia Bartlett

When we are sailing to different Caribbean countries, we check them out first
on Safety and Security Net. But there is nothing like that for me when I go back to
the UK for the summer -and there are things it would be good to be warned about
in advance. Then they wouldn't be such a shock after living in the Caribbean for 11
months a year.
For example, about four years ago I found that once I stepped off the plane I was
being monitored by cameras everywhere I went. Big Brother had seriously moved in.
Being monitored at the airport I accepted; being monitored at the pub I did not. I'm
not talking some dive here; I'm talking beams and a log fire. Is someone back there
counting the pints I drink? There was a camera in the car park, too. Are they going
to call the cops if they see me get behind the wheel after a half too many?
Then there are the speed cameras. That is not cricket. The deal was that if you
got caught speeding it was a fair cop; you should have been on the ball and seen
them coming. But now there's nothing fair about it. We've always heard that the
police have to constantly work on their technology to keep up with the criminals.
With the lowly motorist it's the other way round. There were speed traps. We got
around that by flashing our lights to warn each other and developed the radar warn
ing gadget that you stuck on the dash. Now they put cameras on motorway bridges!
Come on chaps, outside a school I can live with, .. ... I .- 1 .. 1. England did
n't used to be a police state when I lived there, i. i .I .. I I Ihave to come
back and sort it out? Do you really want that?
Two years ago when I arrived back I was surrounded by one-armed bandits and
lottery machines. In the airport! I usually fly from the Caribbean to the UK via other
countries (travel tip: for some reason it's less expensive I I I 1 e UK if you go via
several other countries and rack up an extra couple ol I ...... I ozone killing air
miles), so I see other airports. Other airports don't have gaming machines. In the
supermarket in the UK you can't move your trolley for them. Outside the
n"-- --nt- in th- yl- --u name it, and there they are, machines of one sort or
S11' I' i .i... .. I -;advertised, everywhere you look. Don't they know that
gambling is an addiction that ruins lives? This not Las Vegas, Hong Kong or
Singapore; it is MY England. Correction: it was my England. No wonder I choose to
spend my life in the Caribbean.
I had to go back this year in January, not my season of choice. I needed warm
clothes with a vengeance so I hit the charity shops. I couldn't afford to shop in them
and I am not i i.... ii .... i,, ss the January sales were on and there I could
afford to shop I I i.- .1 i i 11I that hadn't hung in somebody else's wardrobe
for years before they died.
Now, as I understand the thrift/charity sh. i ,,,, people give them the
clothes, they get a deal on the rent, people work I' I free and they don't pay
taxes. Wl -t .. ii-i n. e-re? Wouldn't it be less boring volunteering in them if
they had .-1 ... ..I i .. the charity benefit if they made some revenue?
So here's my "Home for the Hurricane Season" advice:
SAt all times keep at least one driver's licence valid that isn't from your coun
try of origin. Personally, I let them send the UK speeding fine notices to Florida.
There's a lot to be said for the burka. They can't recognize your face on the
video cameras and nobody knows what you are wearing under it, which means that
you never have to change out of those cosy jimjams with the feet and Pooh Bear on
the front.
I can't help with the gambling thing. Personally I always buy one lottery tick
et and I'm so disgusted that I don't win that my pride is hurt and I don't buy any
more just to show them.
Check out when the sales are on before booking your ticket if you are going to
need extra layers to prevent hypothermia.
I would love to hear how other Caribbean cruisers cope, especially with those
automated check-in machines at the airport that are a cross between an ATM, a one
armed bandit and a computer game. (See, you didn't even know about them, did
you?) Am I going to be frisked by a machine too? They are taking all the fun out of
flying.
Right now I'm going to ride my bike back home through the town of Bocas del
Toro, in the pitch black, without any lights and after several beers too many. The
police won't care because they don't have lights on their bikes either and those in
the cars are too busy talking to their girlfriends on their cell phones to notice, but
that' i .1 i. ...1.. .... .. ihe back seat.
I ,,i- i ,i i, i We can't go fast enough because of the potholes.
I love the Caribbean.




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PICK UP!
Ahoy, Compass Readers! When in Grenada, pick up your free monthly copy
of the Caribbean Compass at any of these locations (advertisers in this issue
appear in bold):

The Public Library La Boulangerie Essentials Mini-Mart
Tikal True Value Supermarket Prickly Bay Marina
Art Fabrik Fish & Chicks Enza
Marine World McIntyre Bros. Martin's Marina
Port Authority Spice Island Marine Island Dreams
Grenada Yacht Club Budget Marine Clarke's Court Bay Marina
Tropicana De Big Fish Nimrod's Rum Shop
Island Water World Turbulence Island View
Foodland JYA Grenada Marine
Food Fair Bananas Grenada Marine Canvas
Rick's Cafe True Blue Bay Resort Bel Air Plantation
Le Chateau restaurant Horizon Yachts
Nick's Donuts Aquanauts


a


Read in Next Month's


Compass:


An Irie Welcome in Jamaica

Cruising Common Sense

Caribbean Cuisine with Coconuts

... and more!




L. ,-'-..iii" e -=-- ...


JUNE
1 FULL MOON
2 3 Open Laser Championships, St. Maarten Yacht Club (SMYC)
tel (599) 544-2075, fax (599) 544-2091, info@smyc.com, www.smyc.com
6 12 Provo Mariners' Week, Turks & Caicos. www.maritimeheritage.tc
7 Corpus Christi. Public holiday in many places
8 17 Morgan's Run 2007 rally from Cartagena, Colombia to Old Providence
and San Andres. Lee@DestinationCartagena.com
9 10 IC24 Worlds, BVI. Royal BVI Yacht Club (RBVIYC), tel (284) 494-3286,
fax (284) 494-6117, www.rbviyc.net
12 Queen's Official Birthday. Public holiday in some Commonwealth countries
15- 18 Les Saintes Regatta, Guadeloupe
15 7 July 2nd La Route des Tepuys rally from Martinique to Puerto la Cruz.
www.transcaraibes.com
16- 17 North Sails One-Design Keelboat Champs, www.tropicalsailloft.com
16 23 Bonaire Dive Festival. www.diveintoadventurebonaire.com
18 Father's Day public holiday in Puerto Rico
19 Labour Day. Public holiday in Trinidad & Tobago. Dragonboat Regatta at
Kayak Centre, Chaguaramas; maggi1902@wow.net
21 Summer Solstice
21 24 15th annual Scotiabank Caribbean International Optimist Regatta,
St. Thomas, USVI. STYC, www.styc.net
21 24 10th Annual St. Kitts Music Festival. www.stkittsmusicfestival.net
21 1 July HIHO Caribbean Passage rally, BVI. www.go-hiho.com
23 24 Financial Services Challenge Race, BVI. RBVIYC
23 24 Summer Sailstice, worldwide. www.summersailstice.com
24 Battle of Carabobo Day. Public holiday in Venezuela
24 25 Bequia Carnival. www.bequiatourism.com
27 3 July 21st Annual Aruba Hi-Winds Amateur World Windsurfing Challenge
28 8 July HIHO Windsurf Regatta, BVI.www.go-hiho.com
29 Fisherman's Birthday. Boat and dinghy races in many fishing communities.
29 30 16th Firecracker 500 Race & Chili Cook-Off, Tortola. West End Yacht Club
(WEYC), Tortola, tel (284) 495 1002, fax (284) 495-4184, mvh@surfbvi.com,
www.weyc.net
29 10 July Vincy Mas (St. Vincent Carnival). www.svgtourism.com
30 FULL MOON ("blue moon": the second full moon this month)
30 Green Island Weekend. Antigua Yacht Club (AYC), tel/fax (268) 460-1799,
yachtclub@candw.ag, www.antiguayachtclub.com
TBA 11th Angola Construction Sailing Competition, Bonaire



JULY
1 Territory Day. Public holiday in BVI
2 Curacao Flag Day. Public holiday in Curacao
3 Emancipation Day. Public holiday in USVI
3 CARICOM Day. Public holiday in CARICOM countries
4 US Independence Day. Public holiday in Puerto Rico and USVI.
Carnival in St. John, USVI
5 Independence Day. Public Holiday in Venezuela
5- 18 Tortola BVI Carnival
6 8 Charlotteville Fishermen's Festival, Tobago. (868) 660-5521
6 15 Dominica Dive Fest. Marie@adams-pr.com
8 12th Annual Bequia Fishermen's Day. www.bequiatourism.com
8 11 Chief Minister's Cup Youth Regatta, Tortola. RBVIYC
9 10 Vincy Mas. Public holiday in St. Vincent & the Grenadines
12- 14 St. Barths Open Fishing Tournament. www.st-barths.com
13 1 Aug Tobago Heritage Festival. (868) 639-4441
14 Bastille Day. Public holiday in French West Indies. Yole races in Martinique
14 Underwater Cleanup, Bonaire. www.dive-friends-bonaire.com
16 18 St. Lucia Carnival. Public holiday in St. Lucia
17 Luis Munoz Rivera's Birthday. Public holiday in Puerto Rico
18 20 Saba Carnival. Public holiday in Saba
18 5 Aug Cropover Festival (Carnival) in Barbados
21 Schoelcher Day. Public holiday in Martinique
20 25 USVI Lifestyle Festival, St. Thomas. www.usvimf.com
20 5 Aug Antigua Carnival
23 Statia Carnival. Public holiday in Statia
23 6 Aug Nevis Carnival
23 11 Aug BVI Emancipation Festival
24 Bolivar's Birthday. Public holiday in Venezuela
25 Constitution Day. Public holiday in Puerto Rico
25 27 Rebellion Days. Public holiday in Cuba
26 39 Fete des quarter du Nord-Flamands Boat Races, St. Barts
27 7 Aug Culturama, Nevis
29- 6 Aug 42nd Carriacou Regatta Festival. www.carriacouregatta.com
30 FULL MOON
31 5 Aug 23rd Tour des Yoles Rondes, Martinique. Departs Trois-llets and sails
around island in seven legs. Society des Yoles Rondes (Martinique), tel (596 596) 61
48 50, Fax: 05 96 72, yolesrondes@wanadoo.fr, www.yoles-rondes.org
TBA Antigua Barbuda Race. JHYC
TBA Annual Aruba Reef Care Project
TBA Grenada Summer Regatta

All information was correct to the best of our knowledge at the time
this issue of Compass went to press but plans change, so please
contact event organizers directly for confirmation.

If you would like a nautical or tourism event listed FREE in our calendar,
please send the name and date(s) of the event and the name
and contact information of the organizing body to
*sally@caribbeancompass.com








Give Back to Trinidad Help a Sea Scout
by Beth Blackford


Here's what you can do to "give something back" (for
whatever!) while you wait out the hurricane season in
Chaguaramas, Trinidad. Volunteer to coach a local
Sea Scout -boys and girls aged 12 to 17 -in knot
tying, boat maintenance and repair, galley duty, com-
munications, weather, and other nautical skills that
you perform on a daily basis.
Sea Scouts 1 I ...1i .. i. to master the skills
necessary to i" 'L i '.... Able, and Leading
Sea Scout badge requirements. These same skills,
coupled with the integrity found in the Scout Promise
(you know, the one that goes "I promise that I will do
my best, to do my duty" etcetera) go a long way toward
preparing these young people to become successful,
productive adults and the leaders of tomorrow.
Here are some examples of 1 1.... .....
to help them learn the ropes: "'. I I i
not take a couple of Scouts along to help out and learn
from the best (you)! While you're out there, practice
your man overboard recovery procedures during a
swim call. You might as well test and service your self

m-- M M a u 0


:..i ...,. I 1 I ,. i. le you're at it. And what about that
,I 1.1 .. i - i)air job on the transom you've been
.....I few scouts the opportunity to see
I :.. I i i done. Call one of the contacts list
ed at the end of this article to line up your "cheering
section' before you head out to buy your supplies.
The kids I'm talking about are members of the 6th
Trinidad & Tobago Sea Scouts (6TSS). The troop is based
out of St Mary's College, and is one of the oldest Scout
groups in Trinidad. It's clear that the dedicati-;n .:i-1;;-
and mentoring provided by Troop Leader .. i, I ,, I J
Buckmire is producing tomorrow's vibrant, young leaders.
Along with many involved parents, Buck is also
producing a dragonboat team to be reckoned with!
Troop Matron Sally Maharaj is a driving force behind
the Angels and Saints -one of the strongest com-
petitors at the March 18th First Annual Charity
Dragonboat Festival in Chaguaramas, Trinidad. The
mixed team of boys and girls had the best overall
cumulative time of 25 teams entered, although scor
ing quirks finished them in seventh place. The team


is looking forward to improving its showing at the
next race, the Labour Day Dragonboat Regatta,
scheduled for Tuesday, 19th June, at the Kayak
Centre in Chaguaramas, and welcomes the support
of interested cruisers. What a perfect opportunity to
meet some of the Scouts in person.
Cruisers are also welcome to attend scout meetings
r.-l tr-i;n;n;;r -71- -t the Scout Room, St. Mary's
I( I .. i i participate in swimming les
sons at the St. Mary's College pool on Serpentine
Road on Thursdays and Saturdays; and kayaking and
biking at the Kayak Centre in Chaguaramas on alter
nate Fridays.
To learn more and to 71' i;r, contact volunteer
coordinator Niels Lund 1I m- -J 634-1110,
....... I .. 1 i i. I ..... ... volunteer Beth
I I I I ., i m -j I I
SailSlowDancing@yahoo.com; Troop Leader Andrew
Buckmire at (868) 681-8144, humebuck@yahoo.com;
or Troop Admin Matron Sally Maharaj, (868) 620
6180, sallym@tstt.net.tt.







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What's New
at Isan Wae Wol June


1IIEU MARINE COMING AND ACCESSORIES
FROM AUSTwRAL:
urM. ". rTjn'r .i u j *..- ,'- r. ru .'iv3; il .) .3,>, r ,ij.ri(:
'^:.d,,',i d e:1,., omr.l :.,r'Le I i I
OCed out our eernsiw collection of Burke saxl
p s,. iot. hots gloes anrd Ndy bogs ai Ido
Wai World
b' '.r ~ i' r L1 i d lI' r C tcr'1t re i-
,n. Hxf, ,joj ds iy>h ei ina~ :


NEW MAGni L RFASHUGHTS:
Fr.. '.l.jiI,: d ilkty ,~ a i .J i. 4.,i.y du b und
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L[' 'r hi, ht u on e c'ir rn hot'i&-rhp
,-', re f r.] fi v4,0rprd i n pAti 1- l .-, -


AEW DBA DEEP C UE BATTLE
Group 31 115 AnplHour p*Cfam


Whafs on Sale
DEKA SEA MATE 40 AM BATTIRIES
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reqB3red for oti,. S u qw., aad.bodi'riesoa-;al.. upo.. -.' ,'- ,"] ~:.p.e. ^.* *"c>:110'j %
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5 y un kalbr hoa' ? vsat sWMAd Wafer W Iordd .... -. V
St. Thomas, U.SV.I. St. Maarten, NA S. Maarten, N St. Lucia, Grenada, W. Grenada, WI.
cht Haven Grande Cole Bay Bobby's Marina Rodney Marina St. Goges Grenada Marine
Tel: 340 714 0404 Tel: 599.544.5310 Tel: 599,543,7119 Tel: 785.452.1222 Tel: 473 435 2150 Tel: 473.443.1028
Fax: 340.714.0405 Fa. 599.544.3299 Fax: 599.542.2675 Fx: 785.452.4333 Fax: 473.435.2152 Fax: 473.443 1038
Prices may vry In St. Thoma, St. Lucia and Grenada as a result of customs charges and environmental lev9is.
Isl.and .:n .'m r.l:J r,' l '] J rg 1 ].z W- Marin-e4 D- '., r*.vr-i 3-anlTte 0s ,]s [ n. T- T. r.',l cr...,


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