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Title: Wave measurements in vicinity of Holly Beach, LA
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 Material Information
Title: Wave measurements in vicinity of Holly Beach, LA
Series Title: Wave measurements in vicinity of Holly Beach, LA
Physical Description: Book
Language: English
Creator: Dean, Robert G.
Publisher: Coastal & Oceanographic Engineering Dept. of Civil & Coastal Engineering, University of Florida
Place of Publication: Gainesville, Fla.
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Table of Contents
    Front Cover
        Front Cover
    Title Page
        Title Page
    Table of Contents
        Page i
        Page ii
    List of Figures
        Page iii
        Page iv
        Page v
    List of Tables
        Page vi
    Main
        Page 1
        Page 2
        Page 3
        Page 4
        Page 5
        Page 6
        Page 7
        Page 8
        Page 9
        Page 10
        Page 11
        Page 12
        Page 13
        Page 14
        Page 15
        Page 16
        Page 17
        Page 18
        Page 19
        Page 20
        Page 21
        Page 22
        Page 23
        Page 24
        Page 25
        Page 26
        Page 27
        Page 28
        Page 29
        Page 30
        Page 31
        Page 32
        Page 33
        Page 34
    Additional results for first deployment
        Page A-1
        Page A-2
        Page A-3
        Page A-4
        Page A-5
        Page A-6
        Page A-7
        Page A-8
        Page A-9
        Page A-10
        Page A-11
    Additional results for second deployment
        Page B-1
        Page B-2
        Page B-3
        Page B-4
        Page B-5
        Page B-6
        Page B-7
        Page B-8
        Page B-9
        Page B-10
        Page B-11
    Additional results for third deployment
        Page C-1
        Page C-2
        Page C-3
        Page C-4
        Page C-5
        Page C-6
        Page C-7
        Page C-8
        Page C-9
        Page C-10
        Page C-11
Full Text




JFL/COEL-2001/O11


WAVE MEASUREMENTS IN VICINITY OF HOLLY BEACH, LA







by




Robert G. Dean
S.B. Malakar
Sidney L. Schofield


August 1, 2001





Prepared for:

Coastal Planning and Engineering, Inc.
2841 N.W. Boca Raton Blvd.
Boca Raton, FL 33431





UFL/COEL-2001/011


WAVE MEASUREMENTS IN VICINITY OF HOLLY BEACH, LA






August 1, 2001






Prepared for:

Coastal Planning and Engineering, Inc.
2841 N. W. Boca Raton Blvd.
Boca Raton, FL 33431













Prepared by:

Robert G. Dean, S. B. Malakar and Sidney L. Schofield
Civil and Coastal Engineering Department
University of Florida
Gainesville, FL 32611-6590









TABLE OF CONTENTS


LIST OF FIGURES .................... ........................... ....... iii

LIST OF TABLES .................... ........................ ........ vi

1. INTRODUCTION ......................................................... 1

2. DEPLOYMENT HISTORY ....................................... .......... 1

3. ANALYSIS METHODS .....................................................2

4. OVERVIEW RESULTS FROM EACH DEPLOYMENT ........................ 3

4.1 General ....................................................... 3

4.2 Overview of First Deployment Results ................................. 4

4.2.1 Deployment Timing and Gage Locations ....................... 4

4.2.2 Spectral Time Stacks Obtained From the First Deployment ......... 4

4.2.3 Time Histories of Significant Wave Heights During First
Deployment ................... ............. ................ 6

4.2.4 Characteristics of the Ten Highest Significant Wave Heights
and Associated Transmission Coefficients ....................... 7

4.2.5 Graphical Representation of the Transmission Coefficients
for Ten Highest Waves During the First Deployment ............... 8

4.2.6 Time History of Tides During First Deployment ................... 9

4.3 Overview of Second Deployment Results ............................... 10

4.3.1 Deployment Timing and Gage Locations ...................... 10

4.3.2 Spectral Time Stacks Obtained From the Second Deployment ...... 11

4.3.3 Time Histories of Significant Wave Heights During Second
Deployment ................................................ 14

4.3.4 Characteristics of the Ten Highest Significant Wave
Heights and Associated Transmission Coefficients ................ 14









4.3.5 Graphical Representation of the Transmission Coefficients
for Ten Highest Waves During the Second Deployment ........... 16

4.3.6 Time History of Tides During Second Deployment ................ 16

4.4 Overview of Third Deployment Results ................................ 20

4.4.1 Deployment Timing and Gage Locations ...................... 20

4.4.2 Spectral Time Stacks Obtained From the Third Deployment ....... 21

4.4.3 Time Histories of Significant Wave Heights During Third
Deployment ........ .................... ................... 26

4.4.4 Characteristics of the Ten Highest Significant Wave Heights
and Associated Transmission Coefficients .......................30

4.4.5 Graphical Representation of the Transmission Coefficients
for Ten Highest Waves During the Third Deployment ............. 31

4.4.6 Time History of Tides During Third Deployment ................. 32

5.0 MODELED TRANSMISSION COEFFICIENTS ...............................32

6.0 SUMMARY AND CONCLUSIONS ........................................33

6.1 Summary ....................................................... 33

6.2 Conclusion ........................................................ 34

7.0 REFERENCE............................................................34



APPENDICES

A DETAILED RESULTS FROM THE FIRST DEPLOYMENT .............. A-1

B DETAILED RESULTS FROM THE SECOND DEPLOYMENT ............ B-1

C DETAILED RESULTS FROM THE THIRD DEPLOYMENT .............. C-1









LIST OF FIGURES


FIGURE PAGE

1 Locations of the wave gages near Constance Beach, Louisiana for all three
deployments ....................................................... 1

2 First deployment spectrum from offshore gage 51 .......................... 2

3 Wave gage ID-numbers and locations near Constance Beach, Louisiana, in the
first deployment ........................................................ 4

4 Deployment 1 staggered spectral density plot for offshore gage 51 .............. 5

5 Deployment 1 staggered spectral density plot for inside gage 50 .............. 5

6 Deployment 1 staggered spectral density plot for inside gage 195 ............. 6

7 Plot of the significant wave heights for the first deployment for gage 51 .......... 6

8 Plot of the significant wave heights for the first deployment for inside gage 50..... 7

9 Plot of the significant wave heights for the first deployment for inside gage 195 ....7

10 First deployment transmission coefficients for the 10 highest waves.............. 9

11 Tidal variations during the first deployment of offshore gage 51 ............... 10

12 Wave gage ID-number and locations near Constance Beach, Louisiana, in the
second deployment .................................................. 11

13 Deployment 2 staggered spectral density plot for offshore gage 51 ............. 12

14 Deployment 2 staggered spectral density plot for inside gage 50 ............... 12

15 Deployment 2 staggered spectral density plot for inside gage 184 .............. 13

16 Deployment 2 staggered spectral density plot for inside gage 195 .............. 13

17 Plot of the significant wave heights for the second deployment
for offshore gage 51 ...................................................14

18 Plot of the significant wave heights for the second deployment for inside gage 50 .. .15









19 Plot of the significant wave heights for the second deployment for inside gage 184 ..15

20 Plot of the significant wave heights for the second deployment for inside gage 195 16

21 Second deployment transmission coefficients for the 10 highest waves ........... 18

22 Tidal variations during the second deployment for offshore gage 51 ............19

23 Wave gage ID-numbers and locations near Constance Beach, Louisiana,
in the third deployment.................................................. 20

24a Deployment 3 staggered spectral density plot for offshore gage 51 for year 2000... 21

24b Deployment 3 staggered spectral density plot for offshore gage 51 for year 2001... 22

25a Deployment 3 staggered spectral density plot for inside gage 50 for year 2000 ..... 23

25b Deployment 3 staggered spectral density plot for inside gage 50 for year 2001 .....23

26a Deployment 3 staggered spectral density plot for inside gage 184 for year 2000 .....24

26b Deployment 3 staggered spectral density plot for inside gage 184 for year 2001 .... 24

27a Deployment 3 staggered spectral density plot for inside gage 195 for year 2000 ... .25

27b Deployment 3 staggered spectral density plot for inside gage 195 for year 2001 .....25

28a Plot of the significant wave heights for the third deployment for offshore gage 51.. .26

28b Plot of the significant wave heights for the third deployment for offshore gage 51 ..26

29a Plot of the significant wave heights for the third deployment for inside gage 50 .. .27

29b Plot of the significant wave heights for the third deployment for inside gage 50 ... .27

30a Plot of the significant wave heights for the third deployment for inside gage 184... .28

30b Plot of the significant wave heights for the third deployment for inside gage 184 ... 28

31a Plot of the significant wave heights for the third deployment for inside gage 195 ... .29

31b Plot of the significant wave heights for the third deployment for inside gage 195.. .29

32 Third deployment transmission coefficients for the 10 highest waves ........... 31









33 Tidal variations for the third deployment of the offshore gage 51 ............... 32

34 Calculated transmission coefficients for the central of three breakwaters, each
of 150 feet length and separated by 300 feet. No overtopping represented........ 33









LIST OF TABLES


TABLE PAGE

1 Characteristics of Wave Gage Deployments ................................ 3

2 Characteristics Associated With Ten Highest Waves Occurring at the Offshore
Gage 51 in the First Deployment. Transmission Coefficients Are Shown in
Parentheses....................... ............ .................... ...... 8

3 Characteristics Associated With Ten Highest Waves Occurring at the Offshore
Gage 51 in the Second Deployment. Transmission Coefficients Are Shown in
Parentheses............ .................................. ........ 17

4 Characteristics Associated With Ten Highest Waves Occurring at the Offshore
Gage 51 in the Third Deployment. Transmission Coefficients Are Shown in
Parentheses ........................................................ 30









WAVE MEASUREMENTS IN VICINITY OF HOLLY BEACH, LA

1. INTRODUCTION

The 85 detached breakwaters in the general vicinity of Holly Beach, LA interact with the
incoming waves to provide partial sheltering of the shoreline from the waves and thus affect the
sediment transport processes. Therefore, a quantitative understanding of the effects of these
breakwaters on the waves is central to an optimal design of the beach stabilization project. To
provide this quantitative understanding, a field measurement program was undertaken in which
wave gages were located both landward and seaward of a representative breakwater. The
locations of the landward wave gages were moved to determine the breakwater effects at various
locations. Three successful deployments were carried out commencing on August 9, 2000 and
continuing essentially interrupted (except for retrieval of data and changing batteries twice)
through May 3, 2001, a total period of slightly less than 10 months. This report describes the
results of this field program. The raw data will be stored and provided on a CD.

2. DEPLOYMENT HISTORY

The two ends of the breakwater selected for deployment of the wave gages are located at State X-
Y Plane Coordinates (1,284,739.1, 403,876.0) and (1,284,721.6, 403,722.0). Two types of wave
gages were installed. One type records pressures only from which the tides and waves can be
determined. This type is referred to as a "P" (pressure) gage. The second type records pressures
and the two components of velocity. This type of gage is referred to as a PUV gage.
Unfortunately, despite significant analysis efforts, we have been unable to extract meaningful
directional data from the PUV records and believe that the velocity gages malfunctioned.
Additionally, soon after the third deployment, the records indicate that the pressure sensor for the

"+" Locations of each gage for all 3 deployments,
14(2) numbers) in parenthesis indicate the
S50(3)+ 195(3) deployment number
+ 195(2)
9 ) 184(3)
195(1) +



+ 50(1,2)






Scale in Feet
0 60
51(1,2,3) +


Figure 1 Locations of the wave gages near Constance Beach,
Louisiana for all three deployments.









outside gage commenced malfunctioning. The coordinates of the wave gages during the three
deployments and other information are presented in Table 1 and Figure 1.

The dates of deployment and recovery are presented in Table 1. It is noted that there was a
deployment prior to that in August which was not successful in recovering data due to internal
data storage problems in the instrumentation. This unsuccessful deployment is not included in
Table 1 nor will it be discussed further.

This report is organized as follows. The main body of this report describes the generalities of the
three deployments and presents some representative results for each deployment. More
comprehensive results for the deployments are provided in individual appendices with one
appendix dedicated to each of the three deployments.

3. ANALYSIS METHODS

As noted, although two types of gages were deployed, only the pressure gages were successful in
obtaining data. The PUV gages record data at 1Hz rate for 17 minutes of data every 2 hours; the
pressure only gages record data at 1Hz rate for 17 minutes every hour, and the gages record the
data internally to a hard disk.

The pressure data were subjected to spectral analysis to determine a so-called "one dimensional
spectrum" which provides the wave energy versus wave frequency, but does not include
directional information. Figure 2 provides an example of a one dimensional spectrum for the
outside gage during Deployment 1. The significant wave height is a measure of the total wave
energy and is related to the area denoted "area" under the spectrum by the following:


0.700


0. 560


0
o
i0
O (1;

0.,. ..,,


Figure 2 First deployment spectrum from offshore gage 51.










Hs = 4 Area


Table 1

Characteristics of Wave Gage Deployments


4.0 OVERVIEW RESULTS FROM EACH DEPLOYMENT

4.1 General

This section provides overview results from each deployment including: time stacks of the
spectra obtained from the wave gages, time histories of the significant wave heights for each
gage, a time history of the water levels and a listing of the ten largest significant waves which
occurred at the outside gage and the associated significant wave heights which occurred at the
inside gages. Additionally, the associated peak periods are presented as are the transmission
coefficients, both in tabular and graphical forms. The appendix associated with each of the
deployments includes spectra for each of the ten highest events determined on the basis of the
outside gage.


Deployment Period of Location of Type of Gage State Plane Coordinates
Deployment Gage (Number) (f
x (ft) y (ft)
August 9 to Offshore PUV(51) 1,284,692.2 404,089.6
1 September 20,
2000 Inshore P(195) 1,284,861.9 404,750.8
Inshore PUV(50) 1,284,798.6 404,759.7
Offshore PUV(51) 1,284,692.2 404,089.6
September 20
2 to December 6, Inshore PUV(50) 1,284,798.6 404,759.7
2000 Inshore P(184) 1,284,900.7 403,739.3

Inshore P(195) 1,284,890.2 404,765.1
Offshore PUV(51) 1,284,692.2 404,089.6
December 6 to
3 May 3, Inshore PUV(50) 1,284,889.9 403,683.3
2001 Inshore P(184) 1,284,878.2 403,795.0

Inshore P(195) 1,284,910.5 403,780.4









4.2 Overview of First Deployment Results


4.2.1 Deployment Timing and Gage Locations

As seen from Table 1, the first deployment occurred from August 9, 2000 to September 20, 2000.
The three gages deployed were located as shown in Figures 1 and 3.


Figure 3 Wave gage ID-numbers and locations near Constance Beach,
Louisiana, in the first deployment.




4.2.2 Spectral Time Stacks Obtained From the First Deployment

Figures 4, 5 and 6 present the spectral time stacks for the outside gage and the two inside gages,
respectively. This type of plot allows an "overview" of the spectral information for the entire
time encompassed for a particular gage, in this case a period of somewhat greater than 5 weeks.
Referring to Figure 4 for the outside gage, it is evident that the dominant peak frequency ranged
from 0.1 Hz (10 seconds) to 0.2 Hz (5 seconds). Comparison of the stacks of the outside gage
(Figure 4) to those of the inside gages (Figures 5 and 6), documents the lesser wave heights for
the interior locations. Note that the vertical scales on the plots differ.


+ "+" Location of wave gages
195

+
50


Breakwater #18


Scale in Feet
S 60 51 6- +

















1
0.9
0.8
0.7
g 0.6
a 0.5.
0.4
0.3
0.2.
0.1
0
270


- 0.5


220 0


Figure 4 Deployment 1 staggered spectral density plot for offshore gage 51.










0.25..


0.2,


0.15,



0.051

0.05.


270
260


220 0


Figure 5 Deployment I staggered spectral plot for inside gage 50.


b





r!ii a; I R


I I












0.5
0.45,
0.4 J
0.35
S0.3.
2 0.25,
S0.2
0.15
0.1
0,05

270
260


220 0

Figure 6 Deployment I staggered spectral density plot for inside gage 195.


4.2.3 Time Histories of Significant Wave Heights During First Deployment


Figures 7, 8, and 9, present the time histories of the significant wave heights for the three wave
gages installed during the first deployment. The largest significant wave height at the outside
gage that occurred during this first deployment was approximately 1.2 m whereas the largest
significant wave heights that occurred at the two interior gages were approximately 0.7 m and
0.8 m.


1.5





i .0
_3J
7


I;


0.0----
'230 240 250 260 270

Time in Days, Year 2000
Figure 7 Plot of the significant wave heights for
the first deployment for gage 51.










1. 0 p.1 'Tr 'rr- r'-r' =-Trr- rTTr-'r rTTr-rm--


0.5





23 0 240 250 260 2:70

Time in Days. Year 2000
Figure 8 Plot of the significant wave heights for
the first deployment for inside gage 50.



1.0 -t ...... '" "1 i . . 1J1



0.5
c-





0 .III.....-.I.... ........... L I L
230 210 250 260 270

Time in Days, Year 2000

Figure 9 Plot of the significant wave heights for
the first deployment for inside gage 195.

4.2.4 Characteristics of the Ten Highest Significant Wave Heights and Associated
Transmission Coefficients

Table 2 lists the dates and times of the ten highest significant wave heights which occurred at the
outside gage, the peak wave period and the associated wave heights and periods from the inside
gages. The associated transmission coefficients for these ten wave events are presented as
parentheses for each of the ten wave events and for the two inside gages. It is seen that for inside
Gage 50, the transmission coefficients ranged from 0.44 to 0.57. For inside Gage 195, the
transmission coefficients ranged from 0.42 to 0.63.








Table 2


Characteristics Associated With Ten Highest Waves Occurring at the Offshore Gage 51
in the First Deployment. Transmission Coefficients Are Shown in Parentheses.

Deployment 1
mo/dy hr:min Offshore Gage 51 Inside Gage 50 Inside Gage 195
Rank (Year 2000)
Hs(m) T(sec) Hs(m) T(sec) Hs(m) T(sec)

1 9/9 2:0 1.23 6.4 0.70 7.5 0.76 7.5
(0.57) (0.62)
2 9/9 0:0 1.22 7.1 0.61 7.5 0.70 7.5
(0.50) (0.57)
3 9/9 4:0 1.22 8.0 0.68 7.5 0.77 7.5
(0.55) (0.63)
4 9/9 6:0 1.21 6.7 0.63 8.5 0.71 7.5
(0.52) (0.58)
5 9/9 8:0 1.12 8.5 0.57 8.0 0.65 8.5
(0.51) (0.58)
6 9/8 22:0 1.01 7.1 0.47 7.5 0.49 7.5
(0.47) (0.49)
7 8/15 6:0 1.00 8.5 0.47 8.0 0.49 7.5
(0.46) (0.49)
8 8/15 4:0 1.00 6.4 0.44 8.0 0.46 8.0
(0.44) (0.46)
9 9/9 10:0 0.99 8.0 0.52 8.5 0.58 8.5
(0.52) (0.59)
10 8/15 8:0 0.95 7.5 0.47 7.5 0.5 9.1
(0.49) (53)


4.2.5 Graphical Representation of the Transmission Coefficients for Ten Highest Waves
During the First Deployment

Table 2 has listed the transmission coefficients for the ten largest significant wave heights for
Deployment 1 for both inside wave gages. Figure 10 presents this information graphically.






















1.0





0,


o






0
0

U
C,














, OU,
a.








C,,
0.8
v,






o.:


4


4 +


+i
1'


* +
*


0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0&
N^ 's 0. 0^ Nf 0 s0 0
F C0 0 er


N N N



Figure 10 First deployment transmission coefficients for the 10 highest waves.


4.2.6 Time History of Tides During First Deployment



The time history of the tidal variations, as determined from the outside gage, during the first

deployment is presented in Figure 11.


SGage S50
+ Gage 195










3 .0 1 I 1 I I I II I I 11, i IIi I I I I 1 , 1 4, 1 1 1 I ,



0



1.5






















As seen from Table 1, the second deployment occurred from September 20, 2000 to December 6,

2000, a period of approximately 10 weeks. The three gages deployed were located as shown in
230 240 ; 250 260 270







FiFigures and 12. Comparison of Figureiations 2 and 12 will show that the deploymexterior gage 51 and
of offshore gage 51.



4.3 Overview of Second Deployment Results

4.3.1 Deployment Timing and Gage Locations

As seen from Table 1, the second deployment occurred from September 20, 2000 to December 6,
2000, a period of approximately 10 weeks. The three gages deployed were located as shown in
Figures 1 and 12. Comparison of Figures 2 and 12 will show that the exterior gage 51 and
interior gage 50 were left in the same location whereas gage 195 was relocated farther landward
and the new interior gage 184 was located farther landward than gage 195.









4.3.2 Spectral Time Stacks Obtained From the Second Deployment

Figures 13, 14, 15 and 16 present the spectral time stacks for the outside gage and the three
inside gages, respectively. As was evident for this type of result for the first deployment, these
plots document the lesser wave heights of the interior gages.


"+" Location of wave gages
184


\

195


50







Breakwater #1 8




0 80 51

Figure 12 Wave gage ID-numbers and locations near Constance Beach,
Louisiana, in the second deployment.














1.6

1.4

1.2



E 0.8








360









Figure 13 Deployment 2 staggered spectral density plot for offshore gage 51.
340














0.35 :
0.3 3








0.25,
S00.2,

0150.1 fre












260 0
0.360
0.25










340


320 "0A 4





Figure 14 Deployment 2 staggered spectral density plot for inside gage 50.

12














0.7,

0.6.,

0.5

6 0.4

1
0.2..

0.1 J

360
340

3 300


lI'


0.3
. 0.2
fte,.


260 ''0

Figure 15 Deployment 2 staggered spectral density plot for inside gage 184.


0.7
0.6 i
0.5
O
0.4,

0.2
0. 1

034
340


SI !\,ll


320 ''8

280


260 0


0-2O- 0.5

S. 0.2


Figure 16 Deployment 2 staggered spectral density plot for inside gage 195.









4.3.3 Time Histories of Significant Wave Heights During Second Deployment

Figures 17, 18, 19 and 20, present the time histories of the significant wave heights for the four
wave gages installed during the second deployment. The largest significant wave height at the
outside gage that occurred during this second deployment was approximately 1.2 m whereas the
largest significant wave heights that occurred on the three interior wave heights were
approximately 0.7 m, 0.7 m and 0.85 m.

4.3.4 Characteristics of the Ten Highest Significant Wave Heights and Associated
Transmission Coefficients

Table 3 lists the dates of the ten highest significant wave heights which occurred at the outside
gage, the peak wave period and the associated wave height and period from the three inside
gages. The associated transmission coefficients for these ten wave events are presented as
parentheses for each of the ten wave events and for the two inside gages. It is seen that for inside
Gage 184, the transmission coefficients ranged from 0.54 to 0.65. For inside Gage 50, the
transmission coefficients ranged from 0.63 to 0.82. For inside Gage 195, the transmission
coefficients ranged from 0.25 to 0.67.











1.0




0 .0 5.... .. i ... I. . .l i . . . .

270 280 290 300 310 320 330 340
U 0
Time in Days of the Year 2000
Figure 17 Plot of the significant wave heights for
the second deployment for offshore gage 51.










Deplorymrnt. 2. Station 50





0 .5 --- --- .. ..... .- . r ......r..........
0) i
0.0




0.0 f l | -l fUL ; l...i..l ..l.u .L.L i [ I 1 l Jl 1
270 280 290 300 '310 320 330 310



Time in Days of the Year 2000
Figure 18 Plot of the significant wave heights for
the second deployment for inside gage 50.


S Deploymnitl 2, Station 18



0.5
c) -

l

'pl k


i-I .... v
270 280 290 300 310 320 330 340

70 0
0 7.

Time in Days of the Year 2000

Figure 19 Plot of the significant wave heights for
the second deloyment for inside gage 184.


mrr-t-t rr ?rr-rr~-T1-rrrrrm~











Deployment 2, Slation 195
I 1. r ," r r- -T-r 1 1 1 I | : i I I |I -r p Trn1-I-r rT'I rrrn-i ;i, -,r; ,- i T1- 1 i (rn











0.0 I .. !
270 280 290 300 '310 320 330

0
0 z 0

Time in Days of the Year 2000


Figure 20


Plot of the significant wave heights for
the second deployment for inside gage 195.


4.3.5 Graphical Representation of the Transmission Coefficients for Ten Highest Waves
During the Second Deployment

Table 3 has listed the transmission coefficients for the ten largest significant wave heights for
Deployment 2 for the three inside wave gages. Figure 21 presents this information graphically.

4.3.6 Time History of Tides During Second Deployment

The time history of the tidal variations, as determined from the outside gage, during the second
deployment is presented in Figure 22. It is evident from this plot that the mean of the signal was
affected (attenuated). Although the reason for this is not known, inspection of the records
suggests that the response of the gage to waves (fluctuations in pressure) was not affected.









Table 3
Characteristics Associated With Ten Highest Waves Occurring at the Offshore Gage 51
in the Second Deployment. Transmission Coefficients Are Shown in Parentheses.
Deployment 2
mo/dy hr:min Offshore Gage 51 Inside Gage 50 Inside Gage 184 Inside Gage 195
Rank (Year 2000)
Hs(m) T(sec) Hs(m) T(sec) Hs(m) T(sec) Hs(m) T(sec)

1 11/6 12:0 1.18 8.5 0.72 9.1 0.85 9.1 0.71 9.1
(0.61) (0.72) (0.60)
2 11/6 4:0 1.18 6.7 0.64 6.4 0.75 7.1 0.64 6.4
(0.54) (0.63) (0.54)
3 11/6 2:0 1.08 5.6 0.71 5.8 0.84 5.8 0.72 5.8
(0.65) (0.78) (0.66)
4 11/6 6:0 1.03 7.5 0.56 8.0 0.74 7.1 0.61 7.5
(0.55) (0.712) (0.54)
5 11/8 16:0 1.03 8.0 0.58 8.0 0.77 8.0 0.63 8.0
(0.56) (0.76) (0.61)
6 11/24 2:0 0.99 8.0 0.99 8.0 0.74 8.0 0.24 8.0
(0.55) (0.75) (0.25)
7 11/6 14:0 0.97 9.8 0.97 9.8 0.68 9.8 0.55 9.1
(0.56) (0.70) (0.57)
8 11/6 8:0 0.97 7.5 0.97 7.5 0.73 8.0 0.56 8.0
(0.55) (0.76) (0.58)
9 11/8 14:0 0.96 8.0 0.96 8.0 0.79 8.5 0.65 8.5
(0.63) (0.82) (0.67)
10 11/24 4:0 0.96 8.0 0.52 7.5 0.67 8.0 0.28 8.0
S__(0.54) (0.70) (0.30)
















1 -0.







0 2











Figure 21 Second deployment transmission coefficients
for the 10 highest waves.






























18










Deployment 2, Station 51
3.0 f "r'r r 'i r rrn Tr ,Ir T'rrTT 1r T r r-T'T I I T rr i r''17 ; tli j T rrrT1 rI'I -'"TT -r'Tr ''T" -r
I-


2.5
11 h


IC .11, Ii


2.0


i-
1.0

L


270 280 290 300 ( 3
z


1I I -


I-


-i





11


330 3I11
330 340


Time in Days, Year 2000
Figure 22 Tidal variations during the second deployment
for offshore gage 51.



















19


I-

C









4.4 Overview of Third Deployment Results


4.4.1 Deployment Timing and Gage Locations

As seen from Table 1, the third deployment occurred from December 6, 2000 to May 3, 2001 a
period of nineteen weeks. The four gages deployed were located as shown in Figures 1 and 23.
The outside gage location was not changed and the three interior gages were relocated. As noted,
soon after this deployment, the signal from the offshore gage indicated that the output
commenced being severely attenuated.


"+" Location of wave gages


+
/
184







Breakwater #1


Scale in Feet
0 60


51


Figure 23 Wave gage ID-numbers and locations near Constance Beach,
Louisiana, in the third deployment.









4.4.2 Spectral Time Stacks Obtained From the Third Deployment

Figures 24a and 24b present the spectral time stacks for the outside gage and Figures 25a through
27b present the spectral time stacks for the three inside gages. In contrast to the first and the
second deployments, during this deployment, the measured wave heights from the offshore gage
are sometimes less than those for the inside gages.


0.7

0.6

0.5

w 0.4



0.2

0.1

0
370


cAA


A'


360
o, 355 0
OP}., 350
'1oo


Figure 24a Deployment 3 staggered spectral density plot for offshore gage 51 for year 2000.


'









I -k- '''


i-''i
ni


0.5
0.4
0.3
0.2

340 0















0.45,
0.4
0.35
0.3
0.25 ,
0 0.2
0.15 ,
0.1
0.05
0,
150

F ey 0.4 5 0.5
00.3


00 00.


Figure 24b Deployment 3 staggered spectral density plot for offshore gage 51 for year 2001.




















0.45
0.4 ,.
0.35


, 0.25 .i
E I
S0.2


0.1

0.05
0
370 ,
365


~'


340I 0

Figure 25a Deployment 3 staggered spectral density plot for inside gage 50 for year 2000.








0.25.


0.2


0.15.


0.1


0.05.


150 '"-.


0 0
Figure 25b Deployment 3 staggered spectral density plot for inside gage 51 for 2001

















0.7

0.6

0.5 .

S0.4,1
IU


02

0.1 4

0
370 "-
365


340 0


Figure 26a Deployment 3 staggered spectral density plot for inside gage 184 for year 2000.


0.45 .
0.4 .,
0.35
035


^ 0.2,
0,15
e 0.15-
0.1
0.05

0
120


0 '0


Figure 26b Deployment 3 staggered spectral density plot for inside gage 184 for year 2001.


a

















0.7

0.6.

0.5

0.4



















0 .1
03,,






370

365 0.5

35 0..4

340 0


Figure 27a Deployment 3 staggered spectral density plot for inside gage 195 for 2000.










0.7

0.5


0.54




02-

01

0.

0.5
100






Figure 27b Deployment 3 staggered spectral density plot for inside gage195 for year 2001.









25












4.4.3 Time Histories of Significant Wave Heights During Third Deployment


Figures 28a through 31b, present the time histories of the significant wave heights for the four
wave gages installed during the third deployment. The largest significant wave height at the
outside gage that occurred during this third deployment was approximately 0.85 m whereas the
largest significant wave heights that occurred on the three interior wave heights were
approximately 0.8 m, 0.85 m and 0.95 m. The reason that the wave heights at the inside gages


1.0


U)
a,
0)
r-
0.5

CO


350 360

Time in Days of the Year 2000

Figure 28a Plot of the significant wave heights for
the third deployment of offshore gage 51.


1.0





S0.5
at


1 ..1 11..... I 1 "... . .. I .... 1.. I


I 1 11 I .1


i
r
r

r


10 20 30


40 50 60

E:


70 80 90
U-<


100 110 120
'


Time in Days of the Year 2001

Figure 28b Plot of the significant wave heights for the third deployment
for offshore gage 51.


were sometimes greater than those at the outside gage has been discussed.


n(


0.0


IV I NV .....


i I l


"''"~"""'"~"'"''~""""'"""


' 1 . . ..











1.0 r rrTrrrrrTrrrnr rrnrrrrl rr-


s r




0 ,
S0.5 -





0.0 ".
350 360
Time in Days of The Year 2000

Figure 29a Plot of the significant wave heights for
the third deployment for inside gage 50.






1.,0 rr' 1 1* rr" T ., r" 7- T r ; t! ir" "Ti f i'rr -T m "'I "TT t*r n In Tr'r 1*-;- 1' *!*- V!:"!


a s



0.0
S10 20


- -I
130 -10 50 63

6z


70 80 90 100 110

<


Time in Days of the Year 2001

Figure 29b Plot of the significant wave heights for the third deployment for inside gage 50.


120
if?










1.0 L ;T.Ur l TTTII T. .. t LL.. L tt l.




0.5 -




0+0 3....
350 360
Time in Days of The Year 2000


Plot of the significant wave heights for
the third deployment for inside gage 184.


1 0 ++ ] '+r" : :" ... ++ .. ..... :: .-.- :- ..... + :-- .


-o- 0 I' ;
-


, I tLa I.'" t .,,
^. ih


Figure 30b


Time in Days of the Year 2001
Plot of the significant wave heights for the third deployment
for the inside gage 184.


Figure 30a











I.0 "Pl .1;1:. 1;;.-.... .. ; ; ,..1 .;.
1.0 TTri rrr pr!Trn -rrr"r-i



-~ -

0.5

4z



0.0 "
350 3i 60

Tire in Days of The Year 2000


Figure 31a


1 .0 !**' r;--..



22





II!
S0.5.


^ 0


Plot of the significant wave heights for
the third deployment for inside gage 195.


70 Q 80 '9 100 I 10 120
h i.
< s


Time in Days of the Year 2001

Figure 31b Plot of the significant wave heights for the third deployment
for inside gage 195.









Table 4
Characteristics Associated With Ten Highest Waves Occurring at the Offshore Gage 51
in the Third Deployment. Transmission Coefficients Are Shown in Parentheses.


Deployment 3
Offshore Gage 51 Inside Gage 50 Inside Gage 184 Inside Gage 195
Rank yr/mo/dy hr:min
Rk_______ Hs(m) T(sec) Hs(m) T(sec) Hs(m) T(sec) Hs(m) T(sec)
1 2000/12/13 6:0 0.85 6.4 0.78 6.1 0.80 6.1 0.79 6.1
(0.93) (0.94) (0.93)
2 2000/12/13 8:0 0.76 6.4 0.63 6.7 0.68 6.7 0.63 6.4
(0.83) (0.90) (0.83)
3 2001/1/11 0:0 0.71 6.7 0.68 7.1 0.77 5.8 0.80 6.1
(0.95) (1.08) (1.13)
4 2000/12/14 4:0 0.71 5.3 0.73 5.3 0.75 5.3 0.74 5.1
(1.02) (1.05) (1.04)
5 2001/3/28 16:0 0.70 6.7 0.43 6.1 0.75 8.0 0.76 6.1
(0.57) (1.06) (1.08)
6 2001/3/28 12:0 0.70 6.7 0.38 6.7 0.75 6.7 0.72 6.7
(0.54) (1.07) (1.03)
7 2001/3/28 10:0 0.69 6.7 0.69 6.7 0.79 7.1 0.75 6.7
(0.58) (1.14) (1.09)
8 2000/12/14 10:0 0.69 6.7 0.69 7.1 0.53 7.1 0.49 7.1
(0.74) 0.77) (0.72)
9 2001/3/28 14:0 0.69 7.1 0.37 6.7 0.73 8.0 0.69 6.7
(0.54) (1.06) (1.0)
10 2001/1/11 2:0 0.66 7.1 0.61 7.1 0.75 7.1 0.72 7.1
(0.92) (1.13) (1.08)

4.4.4 Characteristics of the Ten Highest Significant Wave Heights and Associated
Transmission Coefficients

Table 4 lists the dates of the ten highest significant wave heights which occurred at the outside
gage, the peak wave period and the associated wave height and period from the three inside
gages. The associated transmission coefficients for these ten wave events are presented as
parentheses for each of the ten wave events and for the two inside gages. It is seen that for inside
Gage 50, the transmission coefficients ranged from 0.54 to 1.02. For inside Gage 184. the
transmission coefficients ranged from 0.68 to 1.13 For inside Gage 195, the transmission
coefficients ranged from 0.72 to 1.13.












4.4.5 Graphical Representation of the Transmission Coefficients for Ten Highest Waves

During the Third Deployment


Table 4 has listed the transmission coefficients for the ten largest significant wave heights for

Deployment 3 for the three inside wave gages. Figure 32 presents this information graphically.




r '- '


o





a-
Z=<


3 8ge 5, 0
A Ga3efo 184
Cat;e )O1 |
F 3 r o t i cf 10
o~i!-----------...- --- .-..J- .......i_!
0 4- 0

'* N N N. -



Figure 32 Third deployment transmission coefficients for the 10 highest waves.









4.4.6 Time History of Tides During Third Deployment


The time history of the tidal variations, as determined from the outside gage 51, during the third
deployment is presented in Figure 33. As noted previously, the severe attenuation of the mean
(tidal) signal commenced approximately two weeks after deployment and started to recover near
the end of the deployment period.
( 0l



.si 'l ---------------







50 60 0 20 30 10 5: 0 60 70 )} 90 100 11( ]:()
Year 2X) YMr S 1 7-
Time in Days
Figure 33 Tidal variations for the third deployment for the offshore gage 51.







5.0 MODELED TRANSMISSION COEFFICIENTS

Figure 34 presents transmission coefficients based on the model (Dean 2001) developed
earlier and reported in conjunction with this study. The results presented in Figure 34 are
for the central breakwater of three breakwaters, each of 150 feet length and separated by
300 feet and do not include overtopping effects. Comparison of these transmission
coefficients at the gage locations (Figure 1) indicates that overtopping contributed to the
transmission coefficients obtained from field measurements for the ten highest waves
during each of the first and second deployments.













700

c
S600
0

o


-200 -100 0 100 200
Longshore Coordinate (ft)

Figure 34 Calculated transmission coefficients for the central of three Breakwaters,
each of 150 feet length and separated by 300 feet. No overtopping represented.

6.0 SUMMARY AND CONCLUSIONS

6.1 Summary

Three deployments of wave and current gages were conducted at Holly Beach, LA in the vicinity
of Breakwater 18. One gage was located Gulfward of the breakwater during all three
deployments and during the first deployment, two gages were located landward of the
breakwater. During the second and third deployments, three gages were located landward of the
breakwater. The total period of deployment was from August 9, 2000 to May 3, 2001, a period of
slightly less than ten months. The purpose of the current gages, termed PUV gages, was to allow
determination of wave direction. Unfortunately, although the initial analysis of the current data
indicated the gages were providing useful data, subsequent, more thorough analysis has shown
that none of the current data provide meaningful results. Additionally, during the third
deployment, the outside gage apparently suffered a failed diaphragm which resulted in a
significantly attenuated signal resulting in less useful information from this deployment. The
range of the twenty highest wave heights incident on the breakwater during the first and second
deployments varied from 0.95 m tol.23 m with associated periods from 5.6 to 8.0 seconds.

During the first and second deployments, the transmission coefficients ranged from 0.42 to 0.63
and 0.25 to 0.82, respectively. The wave heights from the outside gage were not consistently
reliable during the third deployment.









6.2 Conclusion


Estimates of the transmission coefficient field based on calculations in the lee of the Holly Beach
breakwaters is presented in Figure 34. Comparison of the measured and modeled transmission
coefficients suggests that the transmission coefficients based on field measurements did include
effects of overtopping.


7.0 REFERENCE

Dean, R.G. (2001) "Shoreline Modeling at Holly Beach, L.A", Report No. UF/COEL-2001/010,
Coastal and Oceanographic Engineering Program, University of Florida, Gainesville, FL









APPENDIX A


ADDITIONAL RESULTS FOR FIRST DEPLOYMENT


This Appendix provides graphical representations of the ten largest significant wave height
events for the first deployment as determined from the offshore gage. These results are
presented in Figures A-1 through A-10. Each plot includes the spectrum for the offshore gage
51 and the spectra for the two inside gages 50 and 195.









.8 10, !-[ T'I
-- Rank 1 Offshore Gage 51
-- Inside Gage 050
S---- Inside Gage 195

0.700-


r A

0.560-










0.280- ,
I 1



0140 //" V\
011
// \ l / l



0.000 L. L..L ,.L_ I I I-.J , .. k
0.0 0. 0.2 0.3 0.4 0.5
Frequency in Hz
Figure A-1 Rank 1 spectral density plots of the wave data at the offshore
gage 51 and the inside gages 50 and 195 for deployment 1.










A-2









0.840 r-f-7T1 TTTT'I ''





0,700-


0.560-





0.420-





0.280-


r"


0.14


i ; : i i i [ i VT1 I TF'~1 T
-Rank 2 Offshore Gage 51
--Inside Gage 050
---Inside Gage 195


0.2 0.3 0.4
Frequency in Hz


Figure A-2 Rank 2 spectral density plots of the wave data at the offshore
gage 51 and the inside gages 50 and 195 for deployment 1.



A-3
















1 0
.0.
1.00oo -


Rank 3 Offshore Gage 51
----- Inside Gage 050
.----Inside Gage 195

"..


r
0.800 -













ioo
'-




0.o00o






0.400 ..






0.000
0.0


1.3.L.lLLL ,ij4U- 0
0.3 0.4 0.5


Frequency in Hz

Figure A-3 Rank 3 spectral density plots of the wave data at the offshore
gage 51 and the inside gages 50 and 195 for deployment 1.


L..Jr 1 I 0.i 2
OA1 0.2


. I I I I










0.840[r-T-





0.700-





0.560i-





0.4420-





0.280





0.140r





0.00.0
Figure A-4
Figure A-4


Rank 4 Offshore Gage 51
--- Inside Gage 050
- --Inside Gage 195 -


S v V







I..-tl .1.. l.--i.L._i_.-_l._ljI_: .... .... i 1 1. I I I I I I I I I 1 1 I'
0. 0.2 0.3 0.4 0.5
Frequency in lHz
Rank 4 spectral density plots of the wave data at the offshore
gage 51 and the inside gages 50 and 195 for deployment 1.


A-5


'''';';'










1.080r--r





0.900-





0.720-





0.540;





0.360-



L


0o.oo0


*r '1 -- --r--TT -r-T-r- T r !-r-r--- 'T- r I I t i-i- !- -T-|~ r--t.r'-T-rT"
---RRank 5 Offshore Cage 51
-- Inside Gage 050
---- Inside Gage 195
j


I


0.1 0.2 0.3 0.1 1 0.5


Frequency in Hz
Figure A5 Rank 5 spectral density plots of the wave data at the offshore
gage 51 and the inside gages 50 and 195 for deployment 1.


A-6










0.720 --r i I


1 I t I- 1 ,
-- Rank 6 Offshore Gage 51
-- Inside Gage 050
----.Inside Gage 195 -



I1


r
I-
0.480i"


i

0.360

I-


0.240 r





0.120



r-


Figure A-6 Rank 6 spectral density plots of the wave data at the offshore
gage 51 and the inside gages 50 and 195 for deployment 1.








A-7


0.600


I"Z"^>L~: i -i-,-l .-1 I ..L..... 1 ,,,,y ,I7 --.1.1 1. . .....i--Z LtI
0.1 0.2 0.3 0.4 0.5
Frequency in Hz












8 .1-0,


---- ik iO hor (;~i< 95I


(, l-3t)





() 2:




(X?-I3'-


(... I ()


I ~'
J.i


\ I
*\ l


4\ ~-

./


0.00 A
0.0 0.1. ,I 2 0.:0 O..1
l'-'- (t "ii!nc Iy In ilx

Figure A-7 Rank 7 spectral density plots of the wave data at the offshore
gage 51 and the inside gages 50 and 195 for deployment 1.


A-8


(I:


i









1 1 I


--.Rank 8 Offshore Gage 51
Inside Cage 050
--- Inside Gage 195


4


A / -, \
V /.

0*I -- I I i I I I i i .i.r..._J.L.LL i. LJ...._LL.. l_ 0.
0.0 0. 1 0.2 0.3 0.4 0.5
Frequency in Hz
Figure A-8 Rank 8 spectral density plots of the wave data at the offshore
gage 51 and the inside gages 50 and 195 for deployment 1.


0.480 f '"T-r'-i i i

[-


0.400




0.320-




0.240-




0.160


0.080


IIIllllllllll "










0.7 20 1r-r-r --i [-.- r T- i r -ri -r *-r-r -r-r-r- rT .-r.r-r--r-r-T. r- r r "-r.
-- Rank 9 Offshore Gage 51
S- Inside Gage 050
S- Inside Gage 195 -


0.600- -


r*-


0.480-





0.360 \
e-,~






0.2/10- 1


A 1,


0.120


i / \ 1
'i

I0.000 -- 0 u
0 0*II I .. :...,._)L__Ll._.i -..i1 ...J. .Jl.-. ...l.-. -_l....... I :
0.0 0.1 0.2 0.3 0.4 0.5
FrequenLcy in llz
Figure A-9 Rank 9 spectral density plots of the wave data at the oflhore
gage 51 and the inside gages 50 and 195 for deployment 1.









A-10










0.600 rTT-r-r--T
L

r-
C


0.500





0.400-





0.300.3





0.2001-
o.o I-i~-


F7 7


Rank 10Offshore Gage 51
...- Inside Gage 050
-----Inside Gage 195


0.100 7 V
1 1'
/ /, \ / I\ -\ I


o .oo Q -'o . ..L --..., : ... ... , ^ -_ .-..i.. i-.. ........ --i- L-- - ,...:.....1....^ ... r.z: I
0.1 0.2 0.3 0.4 0.5
Frequency in Hz
Figure A-10 Rank 10 spectral density plots of the the wave data at the offshore
gage 51 and the inside gages 50 and 195 for deployment 1.











A-11


____


: :



















APPENDIX B


ADDITIONAL RESULTS FOR SECOND DEPLOYMENT



This Appendix provides graphical representations of the ten largest significant wave height
events for the second deployment as determined from the offshore gage. These results are
presented in Figures B-1 through B-10. Each plot includes the spectrum for the offshore gage
51 and the spectra for the three inside gages 50, 184 and 195.










2.400i i
Rank
Inside
--- Inside
---- Inside


2.000


C.)
C)


0.1 0.2


r --1 1 -- -r-rr 'T -r-f "'"I--Ir- -T-T -
1 Offshore Cage 51
Gage 050
Gage 184
Gage 195
3

-i


0.3 0.4 0.5


Frequency in Hz
Figure B-l Rank 1 spectral density plots of the data at the offshore
gage 51 and the inside gages 50, 184 and 195 for deployment 2.











B-2










2 .4 0 0 r r r T -1- r r r t y V r -r i i r IT' r rr '-- - T 7- 'r-r-T-T T--r- T I r T --l i T -1 I - T- IT- 1-1 I
Rank 2 Offshore Gage 51
-- Inside Gage 050
.- Inside Gage 184
S---- Inside Gage 195

2.000i







r
1.600 r-











0.800-
O. 8OO I






0.400o- 2




( -00) ;,.-- - ',_ ---, _.-- ,
`-j







0.0 0.1 0.2 0.3 0.4 0.5
Frequency in Hz
Figure B-2 Rank 2 spectral density plots of the wave data at the offshore
gage 51 and the inside gages 50, 184 and 195 for deployment 2.














B-3








2 400 F r-rrrrr-r i- i '-r r m


- Rank 3 Offshore Gage 51
---- Inside Gage 050
Inside Ci.;ge. 184
Inside Gage 195


2.000-




1.600-





E

i_
1.200 -




0.800[




0.400k


S0.0 0.1 0.2 0.3 0.4
Frequency in Hz
Figure B-3 Rank 3 spectral density plots of the waves data at the offshore
gage 51 and the inside gages 50, 184 and 195 for deployment 2.








B-4


I


ii


I
:i

-=l
0.5


2.400 --rT-r-rr T-r-r- r


-Ir-r










I I I II I I I


-t -r- -r-r- --T'' r- r-rT r -r T r--r-r1-Tr-r-r-r-
---- Rank 4 Offshore Gage 51
---- Inside Ca. 050
----- Inside Gage 184
--- Inside Cage 195


800-





600




Or..




L ,I
400- -







oo-



.. . 1 1... .. . I i' i',l i I I
0.0 0.1 0.2 0.3 0.4 0.5
Frequency in Hz
Figure B-4 Rank 4 spectral density plots of the wave data at the offshore
gage 51 and the inside gages 50, 184 and 195 for deployment 2.


B-5


1.200


L


0.





0.(





0.











- Rank 5 Offshore Gage 51 -
.... Inside Gage 050 1
---- Inside Gage 184 -
---- Inside Gage 195


1. 200| -- -s-'-;- r -
r



t-
1.0ooo00-





0.000-


0.600-





0.400b-




L
0.200r-


00 0 0 ,r ""Ip- _--. ,--- I i L -L. ..l .l-_l .,.I.l.L .1 L.... .- .-. .. .._ ..._ ._ ..L _
0.0 0.1 0.2 0.3 0.4
frequencyy in Hz
Figure B-5 Rank 5 spectral density plots of the wave data at the offshore
gage 51 and the inside gages 50, 184 and 195.


B-6


- 1'














j-


1.000-
].(0


S--


0.800-




0-
0.600|-


0.400






0.200


4 ) I I I I I I I I- I I I I I r 4- 4 1
Rank 6 Offshore Gage 51
--- Inside Gage 050
---- Inside Gage 184
---- Inside Gage 195


Frequency in Hz
Figure B-6 Rank 6 spectral density plots of the wave data at the offshore
gage 51 and the inside gages 50, 184 and 195 for deployment 2.


B-7










---F -I-r -- ,I-I-I- IIIII i I, I I, I I r T-r- -V-- r-T]--
- Rank 7 Offshore Gage 51
Inside Gage 050
---- Inside Gage 184
---- Inside Cage 195


0.900-





0.720-





0.540


0.360k


0.180


S0.0 0.1 0.2 0.3 0.4
Frequency in l1z
Figure B-7 Rank 7 spectral density plots of the wave data at the offshore
gage 51 and the inside gages 50, 184 and 195 for deployment 2.











B-8










. .1- .' T --- rr _I T I -
Rank 8 Offshore Gage 51
-- Inside Cage 050
---- Inside Gage 184
---- Inside Gage 195


2.400o-





2.000k





1.600k





1.200F-


i







0.400





0.00O-
H.


Figure B-8 Rank 8 spectral density plots of the wave data at the offshore
gage 51 and the inside gages 50. 184 and 195 for deployment 2.









B-9


I L

102 0.3 0.4 0.5
F'requency in Hz










0.960 r-rT-r-Tr
1-



0.800





0.6401-


F
j-

0.480





0.320





0. 160-
L

ir

L ^^>-~


.r-T- -- -'r i TrT-rT r r i -rF i T1-r-r-T -T-r-r-T-T-r"r-r T
Rank 9 Offshore Cage 51
-.-.. Inside Gage 050
---- Inside Gage 184
- --Inside Gage 195


L0 ..1 I -ii . . 1 I . 0 .. ...4.. ..... L .L
0.1 0.2 0.3 0.4


Frequency in Hz
Figure B-9 Rank 9 spectral density plots of the wave data at the offshore
gage 51 and the inside gages 50, 184 and 195 for deployment 2.











B-10











--- Rank
_---- Inside
i-nside
Inside


10Offshore Gage 51
Gage 050
Gage 184
Gage 195


0 .0 0.1 0.2 0.3 0.4 0.5
Frequency in IHz
Figure B-10 Rank 10 spectral density plots of the wave data at the offshore
gage 51 and the inside gages 50, 184 and 195 for deployment 2.










B-11


1.200r-
1>



1.000 -





0.800





0.600




L0.
o.iop


0.200









APPENDIX C


ADDITIONAL RESULTS FOR THIRD DEPLOYMENT




This Appendix provides graphical representations of the ten largest significant wave height
events for the third deployment as determined from the offshore gage. These results are
presented in Figures C-1 through C-10. Each plot includes the spectrum for the offshore gage
51 and the spectra for the three inside gages 50, 184 and 195.











0.600 .-rn





0.500-


0.400M


F


0.300


0.200


F

0.100-


i -


o.oo 0


I I I I I


- Rank
--- Inside
S- Inside
- - Inside


10 Offshore Gage
Gage 050
Gage 184
Gage 195


II


0.2
0.2


0.4


Frequency


in Hz


Figure C-I Rank 1 spectral density plots of the wave data at the offshore
gage 51 and the inside gages 50, 184 and 195 for deployment 3.


C-2


T7-P~


- -T'-T T


I










0.6001 ..| --T--r-r-r- rr r I - I r-T-Thr-T--rl--
Rank 2
-FInside GC
Inside G
-- Inside G

0.500-





0.40 oI-


0.300


Offshore Gage 51
age 050
age 184
age 195


i-



0.200





0.10 i-
0.0 ?


00 0.1 0.2 0.3 0.4 0.5
Frequency in 11z
Figure C-2 Rank 2 spectral density plots of the wave data at the offshore
gage 51 and the inside gages 50, 184 and 195 for deployment 3.










C-3












-- Rank 3 Offshore Gage 51
--- Inside Gage 050
Inside Gage 184
----Inside Gage 195


i-
!-
0.400-

L
I-
r

0.300--

i:



0.200--






0.100 -


A I


i,/ V /\A
-r \ j 1/ \/
_l^ Z'^'''y .l ..-- ..l .i. C........J..lI...._l. .-l i i ..L.Ll .\..... ..._i ....-.- L .._ ..
0.1 0.2 0.3 0.4
Frequency in liz
Rank 3 spectral density plots of the waves data at the offshore
gage 51 and the inside gages 50, 184 and 195 for deployment 3.


0.600

L-


0.500


/ I
~II


Figure C-3


'











0.600


0.300






0.200L,-
i-
i.-






L


Figure C-4 Rank 4 spectral density plots of the wave data at the offshore
gage 51 and the inside gages 50. 184 and 195 for deployment 3.












C-5


0.5


0.2 0.3
Frequency in Hz


0.4


"


0.500 -

i-


0.400


I rI-- -r- 4 1
Rank 4 Offshore Gage 51
Inside Gage 050
Inside Gage 184 -
Inside Gage 195


-I

1
i


*1



-i






]


-j


I\










0.240 1 , ' l -i I r : T- r-i -r-r-r- -T-r-r r-r- -r-
i_ --- Rank 5 Offshore Gage 51
--- Inside Gage 050
--- Inside Gage 184
----Inside Gage 195

0.200-





0.160 2
j
Ww
*7
_-1 7




i




I -
0.120 j





0.080; -----










Freque ny in Hz
.0.1 0.2 0.3 0.4 0.5


Figure C-5 Rank 5 spectral density plots of the wave data at the offshore
gage 51 and the inside gages 50,184 and 195 for deployment 3.


C-6









0.096r,- i T-r r r-r I I ,T', ,
S----Rank 6 Offshore Gage 51
-- Inside Gage 050
.- Inside Gage 184
----- Inside Gage 195







L
0.080 -





0.064 -














0 161
p.

t --

S0.048




0.032- / 2 03 0.I4


Ifequency in Hz
t i\ / \ I -




e 51 a t i g 5,1 a 1
O,00 / 1 \ ~
f\ 1 ",


0 .')0 n .." .ff i i i i i L..iL....I. i I. i. i j.i-i-l.__j l ... .i..a
0.1 0.2 0.3 0.4 0.5
Frequncy in -Hz
Figure C-6 Rank 6 spectral density plots of the wave data at the offshore
gage 51 and the inside gages 50,184 and 195 for deployment 3,


C-7











T"rr- -TT Ar "-1I-- 1r I-..-.-.'T" r-. -- r-rI r I T----[r-r"T" 1""r"r'r' r-r rr T-r -r r-" r-"TT "r-
-- Rank 7 Offshore Cage 51
Inside C'na 050
---- Inside Gage 184
-----Inside Gage 195






iI
li


I '
I I
I I
A 1 I;1\




I,


I \
1\1


1 I. 0.3
0.3


Frequency in Hz

Figure C-7 Rank 7 spectral density plots of the wave data at the offshore
gage 51 and the inside gages 50, 184 and 195 for deployment 3.














C-8


0.060ir


I--


0.050-






0.040


0.030 -






0.020-






0.01 0






o0.0o


; L. 0. 2 .I ...
0.2










- Rank 8 Offshore Gage 51
-- Inside Gage 050
SInside Gage 184
---- Inside Gage 195


0.0 0.1 0.2 0.3 0.4 0.5
Frequency in Hz
Figure C-8 Rank 8 spectral density plots of the wave data at the offshore
gage 51 and the inside gages 50. 184 and 195 for deployment 3.









C-9


0.480p8T




0.4-00
0.400-


0.320





0.240





0.160










0.108 --1- -1-r'r --p.. -. -:--- ,| '--r-r-
Rank 9 Offshore Gage 51
-- Inside Gage 050
S- Inside Gage 184
- Inside Gage 195

0.090- i;


1
I ;I
i


0.072-





c: i i .'i
0 .054 -





0.036 --



SI V I

0.0oi V







Frequency in Lz
Figure C-9 Rank 9 spectral density plots of the wave data at the offshore
gage 51 and the inside gages 50, 184 and 195for deployment 3.











C-10











Rank 10Offshore Gage 51
Inside Gage 050
Inside Gage 184
Inside Gage 195


.0.0 0.1 0.2 0.3 0.4
Frequency in Hz
Figure 10 Rank 10 spectral density plots of the wave data at the offshore
gage 51 and the inside gages 50, 184 and 195 for deployment 3.


C-11


0.6O00-





0.500-


0.4001-





0.300-





0.200-





0.100-
i-

0.00


- I I i 1 1 1 1 I I




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