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Title: Fourth year sewing program for girls' home demonstration clubs
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 Material Information
Title: Fourth year sewing program for girls' home demonstration clubs
Series Title: Fourth year sewing program for girls' home demonstration clubs
Alternate Title: Circular 30 ; Florida Agricultural Extension Service
Physical Description: Book
Language: English
Creator: Settle, Lucy Belle
Publisher: Agricultural Extension Service, University of Florida
Publication Date: June 1931
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Bibliographic ID: UF00084537
Volume ID: VID00001
Source Institution: University of Florida
Rights Management: All rights reserved by the source institution and holding location.
Resource Identifier: oclc - 214324443

Table of Contents
    Title Page
        Page 1
    Board of control and staff
        Page 2
    Main
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        Page 4
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        Page 6
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Full Text


June, 1931


COOPERATIVE EXTENSION WORK IN
AGRICULTURE AND HOME ECONOMICS
(Acts of May 8 and June 30, 1914)



AGRICULTURAL EXTENSION SERVICE, UNIVERSITY OF FLORIDA
FLORIDA STATE COLLEGE FOR WOMEN,
AND UNITED STATES DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE,
COOPERATING
WILMON NEWELL, Director







FOURTH YEAR SEWING PROGRAM

for

GIRLS' HOME DEMONSTRATION CLUBS


Written and Compiled by

LUCY BELLE SETTLE,
District Home Demonstration Agent









Bulletins will be send free upon application to the
State Home Demonstration Department,
TALLAHASSEE, FLORIDA


Circular 30






BOARD OF CONTROL


P. K. YONGE, Chairman, Pensacola
W. B. DAVIS, Perry
A. H. BLENDING, Tampa
FRANK J. WIDEMAN, West Palm Beach
RAYMER F. MAGUIRE, Orlando
J. T. DIAMOND, Secretary, Tallahassee

STAFF, AGRICULTURAL EXTENSION SERVICE
JOHN J. TIGERT, M.A., LL.D., President of the University
WILMON NEWELL, D.Sc., Director
A. P. SPENCER, M.S., Vice-Director and County Agent Leader
J. FRANCIS COOPER, M.S.A., Editor
R. M. FULGHUM, B.S.A., Assistant Editor
E. F. STANTON, Supervisor, Egg-Laying Contest
RUBY NEWHALL, Secretary
COOPERATIVE AGRICULTURAL DEMONSTRATION WORK
W. T. NETTLES, B.S., District Agent
H. G. CLAYTON, M.S.A., District Agent, Organization and Out-
look Specialist
J. LEE SMITH, District Agent
R. W. BLACKLOCK, A.B., Boys' Club Agent
HAMLIN L. BROWN, B.S., Dairyman
E. F. DEBUSK, B.S., Citrus Pathologist and Entomologist
N. R. MEHRHOF, M. AGR., Poultryman
WALTER J. SHEELY, B.S., Agent in Animal Husbandry'
J. E. TURLINGTON, Ph.D., Agricultural Economist'
FRANK W. BRUMLEY, M.S.A., Agricultural Economist, Farm
Management
W. R. BRIGGS, B.S.A., Assistant Agricultural Economist, Farm
Management
D. E. TIMMONS, M.S.A., Agricultural Economist, Marketing
COOPERATIVE HOME DEMONSTRATION WORK
FLAVIA GLEASON, State Agent
VIRGINIA P. MOORE, Home Improvement Specialist
LUCY BELLE SETTLE, B.S., District Agent
RUBY MCDAVID, District Agent
MARY E. KEOWN, M.S., District Agent
ISABELLE S. THURSBY, B.S., Food and Marketing Agent
EVA R. CULLEY, B.S., Acting Nutritionist

'In cooperation with U. S. D. A.
'Part-time.







FOURTH YEAR SEWING PROGRAM


A WELL-DRESSED CLUB GIRL

By LUcY BELLE SETTLE
After having three years of sewing work the girls should
have a good knowledge of all the stitches used in plain sewing
and a great many fancy stitches. They should also know how
to use the sewing machine, and what is of great importance,
select and make clothing for themselves which is in good taste.
To exercise good sense and good taste in dressing tells of
an appreciation of what one should demand of one's self and
of what others have a right to expect. It affects the home
by adding to its good cheer and happiness. It has value in
the business world, for unconsciously others judge people by
their appearance. It has its influence upon the individual,
bringing a sense of comfort and self-respect.
Clothes do not make the girl, but they tell many things
about her. What do you wish yours to tell? Would you like
them to express refinement, daintiness, neatness, cleanliness,
beauty? Would you like to be a well-dressed club girl?
To be well dressed is more a matter of knowing how than
of dollars and cents. Simplicity is the keynote of good dress-
ing. To be well dressed, a girl must know herself, her pos-
sibilities and her needs. She must know the material with
which she has to work and the purpose for which her gar-
ments must be used.
Since the mastery of the art of good dressing is within
the reach of all, a girl should endeavor to make the most of
what she has at hand. To aid you in doing this, your work
for the fourth year is to study how to be a well-dressed club
girl. You will study the things you have, the things you need
and the things you may have. To aid you in this, this bulletin
has been prepared.
A CLUB GIRL'S CLOTHING BUDGET
The plan for spending an income is called a budget, and in-
cludes apportioning certain amounts of money to be spent for
certain things. Some people feel that a budget limits them in
buying. As a matter of fact, it is the amount of money one
has to spend that limits the buying. The budget is a plan







that helps one to get the most possible value for the amount
of money one has. The budget sometimes makes it possible
to have more things because the money is spent wisely. It
is easy to spend too much money for one thing and then have
nothing left for other things that one wants. Did you ever
spend money for something and then regret it, wishing that
you had spent it differently? A budget would have made you
think a little more carefully before making a foolish purchase.
Look over the clothing you have on hand, including under-
wear, dresses, shoes, stockings, hats and wraps. Separate
into that which can be worn as it is, that which needs re-
modeling, and that which should be discarded. List these
articles which are usable in the space set aside in the budget.
This constitutes your clothing inventory. List the smallest
number of different garments and articles of wearing apparel
that you feel a girl of your age needs in your community in
order to be suitably dressed for school, church, and entertain-
ments to which she may go. Make a list of new clothing that
should be made or purchased to complete your wardrobe. Take
your list to the stores and find the cost of the new articles
and of remodeling the old ones. If this cannot be done,
estimate the cost. Discuss your clothing budget with your
mother and obtain her opinion as to its fitness and cost as re-
lated to the clothing budget of the family.
It is estimated that girls of 12 to 14 years of age living
on farms spend about $52 on all their clothing, while girls 15
to 18 years old spend an average of $82 yearly.
With your mother's help decide upon an approximate
amount that you can spend this year for clothes and make a
budget according to the following:








BUDGET


(L) 0 0





0 C 0
4) wt cc bo




Outer clothing ....................---------. 20%I
Dresses .........--..----.---------.
School ...........................--..
Party ..-----.............-----------


Wraps .......................................... 12%


Coat ................. --... --..........
Raincoat .......----- ---------------
Sweater ...-.....-.....---------.----



I I
Underwear..............................---...... 12
Teddiesa ................---.--.------ -
Bloomers ............---------------
Slipmes---------------------- --------
Slips .......... .. ... ..... .... .
Gowns ..........------ -------------
Brassieres ................




Footwear ...................................... 23%
Shoes .......... ...-.--.--..... 15%
Stockings ..............--.... 8%




H ats ...................................--.......... 10%


. . . . . . . . . . .. . . . . . . . .. . . . . . . . . - _ _










BUDGET- (Continued)




V. 4.
Q (V 0





A accessories .. ............................... 8

Handkerchiefs ..........................
G loves .......................................
U m brella ..................................
Miscellaneous (manicure sup-
plies, hair cuts, hair nets,
etc.) ................ ..................




Toilet Articles ............................ 5%
Soap .........................................
Tooth brushes ..........................
Toolth pAstices--------------_------ 5 lI
Tooth paste ..............................
Face powder ...........................
Talcum ................. ............
Lotions ..................................




Repair and renovation ............ 5%
Materials for:
Cleaning ................................
Dyeing ........----...............
Remodeling ..........................



General Miscellaneous ............... 5%i
General Miscellaneous ................ 5I


..... .... .... ..... .... .... ..... .... .... ....






7
CLOTHING ACCOUNT

I COST I DATE PURCHASED


I I
.......-- ------ ------------- --
........ ................ ...... .....----------------- .---------------------------------
. . . . . . . . . . . . ..1.. . . .. . . . .-- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -




......................... .....-..................
I I
............................. ............ .... ..........
..... ................................. ................... .... .....

. . . . . . . .. . . . . . .. . . . .-- - -- - - - - --. -- - - - --. - - - - - -- - -
. . . . . . . . ..... ..-- - - - - - - .- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -




I I
...1........................................................... .. ......






......................... ........................................
.. .... I..................
............................. ..... ...................... . . . . . .
. . .. .. . .. . . .. . .. .. .. . . .. .. .... . . . I. ..--- -- -- -- - -- - -- -- -- - -- -- -- -- -

..................1. . . . . . ..--------------- -----------------------------



.. . .. . .. . .. . . ... . . . . . . . . . .. . . . . . .... ..I. . . . .. . .
.. .... ................. ................................... ..i ................... ...
.. . .. . .. . .. . .. . .. . .. .... . . . . . .. . .-- -- - -- - -- - -- - -- - -- - -

....................... ....... . ------------- ................. .. . . . . ......
........................ ...... 1*......... I.. . . .................................


ARTICLE









8



CLOTHING ACCOUNT



ARTICLE I COST DATE PURCHASED



............................................................. ..... . .......-..


..............................................


................................. .. ....... .......................... .............................................

..................... ....................



................................................................................. .....................

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................................................. ........................... ..... --- .------- ---------------------------------


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S................i..........--------------------**---




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-------------~---~--- -------------'----- ------ ......... .....




I-----~-------------~----- --- ---------------------
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1..........................-------..... ........


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--------------------------


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-------------------------


-------------------------


---------------------------------------------


------------------------------- --------------





------ - ------ -- - - -- - - -- - - -




--------------------- ------------------------




----------------------------------------- -------







DYEING AND REMODELING DRESS
For instructions in dyeing refer to Florida Circular No. 998,
Hints on Home Dyeing, by Virginia P. Moore.
REMODELING CLOTHING
In remodeling clothing, consider the following points:
Careful planning is important.
Is the material worth making over?
Time may be saved by planning the new garment before
ripping the old one.
A thorough cleaning of old garment is necessary.
Do not use expensive trimmings, or expensive new materials
with worn cloth.
In combining two or more materials, make the combination
harmonious in color.
Piecings or worn places may be hidden by a tuck, buttons,
braid, embroidery or other forms of trimming.
Making:-Make under the directions of the Home Demon-
stration Agent.
MAKING OF PRINCESS SLIP
A princess slip is a necessary foundation for wear with most
light weight dresses. To be a good foundation for dresses, the
princess slip must be simple and good in design and conform
to the lines and curves of the figure. It should be at least one
inch narrower and one inch shorter than the garment under
which it is to be worn. The curved top follows the round lines
of the neck and produces an artistic effect and also stays upon
the shoulders better than the straight bodice top.
Material:-Berkeley, nainsook, or any soft undergarment
material to which dresses will not cling will make a satisfac-
tory princess slip.
The amount of material needed is twice the finished length
of the garment plus twice the width of the hem, plus two
inches for finishing.
Making:-See a standard commercial pattern which is sim-
ple in design. The slip may be cut from a one-piece dress
pattern by altering the neckline and armseye. Use French
seams.








MAKING OF INFORMAL PARTY DRESS
This will constitute one of the final garments to be made
in the four years of sewing work and should be an expression
of the fine taste and skill of the wearer.
Materials:-White voile, organdy, handkerchief linen, and
batiste are some of the suitable materials. Colored material
may be used with permission of the Home Demonstration
Agent.
Making:-Select a good commercial pattern and make under
the direction of the Home Demonstration Agent.

SUGGESTED ARTICLES
PAJAMAS
Materials:-The material for your pajama suit should be
attractive in appearance, soft enough to be comfortable, and
durable enough to stand wear and laundering. Pajama checks
or stripes, cotton crepe, and mercerized cotton materials such
as soisette or lingette, are suitable for this problem.
Your pattern will tell you the amount of material needed,
but you can easily see that you will need about two times the
length of the trousers and two times the length of the blouse,
since the material will not be wide enough to cut two pieces
side by side.
Design:-A simple commercial pattern, the top part made
in kimona style, should be selected. Attractive designs may
be worked out by using a figured material trimmed with plain
bands of the same material; a plain color trimmed with a
figured or striped material; or a plain color for the trousers.
and a figured material for the top part of the pajamas.
Making:-When you have bought a pattern, correct in
size, test it by holding it up to yourself to see if it needs to
be changed in length or width. Alter, if necessary, according
to the directions of your Home Demonstration Agent.
Read carefully all the directions on the pattern envelope
and on the sheet which is inside with the pattern. These sug-
gestions will tell you about the folding of the material, the
placing of the pattern for cutting, the seam allowances, and
the marks to show which parts of the pattern are joined to-
gether. You will notice that the trousers of this pattern are






similar to the bloomers, except that the pajamas are longer,
and do not have the fullness gathered into a band at the
bottom.
If there is a right and wrong side to your material, care
must be taken, as with your bloomers, to prevent cutting the
two halves of the trousers for the same leg. Fold the material
crosswise, with the two right or two wrong sides together,
then pin the pattern in place, and the two halves will be cut
correctly.
French seams are used for the pajamas. In making the
trousers, sew the leg seams first, then join the two parts in a
continuous seam. The top of the pajamas is finished with a
hem through which elastic is run. A narrow tape may be
used in place of the elastic. In this case, a placket is made at
the side, and the tape is tied here, after being run through
the hem. The bottom of the trousers is finished with a hem,
a binding or a band of contrasting material.

SUGGESTIVE PROGRAM FOR CLUB
ACHIEVEMENT DAY
Meeting called to order by the president.
Song-Dreaming.
"'The Value of 4-H Club work to the Community" by a rep-
resentative citizen.
Club Songs.
Clothing play or demonstration by Club Girls.
Awarding certificates by Home Demonstration Agent.
Club Songs.
Dress Revue by Fourth Year Girls.
Club Pledge.










SCORE CARD FOR REMODELED GARMENT*

Points
I. General success of project ................................. ......... 30
Ingenuity shown in the problem ........................................ 10
Economical use of material ...................................... ........ 10
Suitability of result to purpose for which intended .......... 5
Durability of result ..................................... ............. 5
II. Design and color ........................................... .................. 30
Beauty of design ................................................................. 10
Color combinations .............................................. .......... .... 10
Texture combinations ................................................................ 5
Textile design combinations .................................................... 5
III. Workmanship .............................................................................. 30
Choice and neatness of seams, hems, finishes, etc. .......... 15
Perfection of stitching (hand or machine) ........................ 15
IV. Relation of value to cost in time and money ............................ 10
Total score ........................................................................................ 100



SCORE CARD FOR UNDERGARMENTS*

I. Materials used, including trimmings ..................................... 30
Hygienic aspects .................................. ...................... .... 10
Durability of materials .......................................... ............. 10
Laundering qualities ....................................... ........... ... 10
II. Workmanship ...................................................... ...................... 30
Choice and neatness of seams, hems, finishes, etc. ........... 15
Perfection of stitching (hand or machine) .................... 15
III. Design, ........................................................................................ 20
Suitability ......................................................................... 10
Protection and modesty.
Comfort.
Beauty in line and color ........................................ ............ 5
Originality .............................................................................. .... 5
IV. General appearance ......................................................................... 10
Cleanliness .............................................................................. 5
Pressing .................................................................................... 5
V. Relation of garment value to cost in time and money .............. 10
Total score .......................................................................................... 100


*From U.S.D.A. Misc. Circ. No. 90.










SCORE CARD FOR AFTERNOON, EVENING,
OR PARTY DRESSES*

Points

I. Design and color ...................----...............- 30
Beauty of design and color combination ..............-..... ..- 20
Suitability to occasion and age of wearer ...................... 5
Individuality ........................................... 5
II. Materials used, including trimmings ......... .. ..................... 20
Suitability to design and purpose of dress .................. 10
Cleaning qualities ............ .. ............................ 10
III. W orkm anship ...... ..... ... ...................................... 30
Choice and neatness of seams, hems, finishes, etc. .......... 15
Perfection of stitching (hand or machine) ..................... 15
IV. General appearance ........... .... .................................. 10
Cleanliness .................. ....................... 5
Pressing ...............................................................................---...... -----------
V. Relation of garment value to cost in time and money ............... 10
Total score .....................................- ... -...-- 100


SCORE CARD FOR REVUE OF AFTERNOON, EVENING,
OR PARTY COSTUMES*

I. General appearance .. .................... .......... 40
General design and color combination ..........................-- 10
Individuality and style .......................... ............. 10
Posture and carriage (if worn by contestant) ................. 5
Personal neatness ......................................... 5
Fit of garments .............. ........... ........ ...... 5
Effect of underwear ........... ......... 5
II. Design of costume ............................... ........-----.......... 20
Suitability of design to person and occasion ...............- 10
Beauty of design and color ................................ 5
Becomingness of color ............................... .......... 5
III. Materials in costume ......... ........ ........................ 15
Suitability to person ................................ ....... 10
Suitability to occasion ........... .. ......................... 5
IV. Economic factors ................................................... 15
Judgment shown in distribution of cost among articles 5
Durability of design .................. .................-- 5
Value in relation to cost ................... ......... ........ ............. 5
V. Ethics of the costome .......................................... ............... .... 10
Modesty ...................... 5
Social influence .............................. ............. ................... 5
Total score ........................................................................ 100


*From U.S.D.A. Misc. Circ. No. 90.




14












SCORE CARD FOR COMPLETE COSTUME*

Points
I. General appearance ........................... ................... 15
General design and color combination .................................. 10
Individuality ............................................................................ 5
II. Suitability to group of persons for whom planned .................... 20
A artistic aspects ............................ .................................. 10
Design and color
Materials.
Health aspects .... ................... ........................ 10
Comfort.
Protection.
III. Completeness of costume ........................ ....................... 10

IV. Economic aspects ........................................ ...................... 20
Durability of materials and design ...................................... 5
Value in relation to cost ..................................... ............ 5
Judgment shown in distribution of cost among articles 5
Cost of upkeep ............................ .......................................... 5
V. Suitability to occasion ...................................... ................... 15
VI. Workmanship ........................................................... .................... 20
Neatness and quality of stitching, seams, hems, etc.
Total score .. .. .................................. ........................ 100















*From U.S.D.A. Misc. Circ. No. 90.











OUTLINE OF REQUIREMENTS


Required:
Cup towel
Hand towel
Holder
Cap
Apron


Required;
Stocking darn


FIRST YEAR SEWING
Articles Needed in Club Work
Suggested Articles:
Sewing bag
Nightgown


SECOND YEAR SEWING
The Uniform
Suggested Article:
Brassiere


Patching
Plain white dress of linen or
cotton material
Bloomers
Uniform cap
Uniform apron with emblem


THIRD YEAR SEWING
Room Improvement
Required: For dining room:
For bedroom Removal of stains
(Any four articles may Curtains-full length
be made) Luncheon Set-Cloth and
Curtains 4 napkins
Scarfs
Pillowcases Suggested Article:
Bed spread Dress suitable for school wear


FOURTH YEAR SEWING
The Well-Dressed Club Girl
Making of a clothing inventory and budget.
Dyeing and remodeling dress.
Making of Princess slip.
Making of an informal party dress.
Suggested Articles:
Pajama Suit.




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