|
UFL/COEL-92/016
WAVE DATA SUMMARY: HOLLYWOOD BEACH,
FLORIDA, JANUARY 1990 TO MAY 1992
by
P.E. Dompe
and
D.M. Hanes
November 20, 1992
REPORT DOCUMENTATION PAGE
1. sport No. 2. 3. Lcipliat *a aceassl- o.
UFL/COEL-92/016
4. Title aod Subtitle 5. Report Dat
11/20/92.
6.
Wave Data Summary: Hollywood Beach, Florida, January 1990 to May 1992
7. Author(s) 8. Pertaorsui Orlaaiztioe report No.
P. E. Dompe & D. M. Hanes UFiL/COEL-92/016
9. Perfomoin Organuatioo Name and Address 10. proJect/Task/Uork Unit No.
Coastal and Oceanographic Engineering Department
University of Florida
336 Weil Hall 11. Caotract or Grant No.
336 Well Hall
Gainesville, FL 32611 R/C
13. Type of Report
12. Sponsorn|g Organization Name and Address
Florida Sea Grant College Program/ NOAA -.
15. Suppleenutary Notes
16. Abstract
The following report presents wave data collected at two near shore locations off Hollywood Beach, Florida beginning in
January 1990 and ending May 1992. The methods used to collect and analyze the data are also presented. Significant wave
height, peak wave period, and peak wave direction are presented in time series plots, and summarized monthly in tables.
Appendices include the time series plots, wave roses of each deployment period, an overall wave rose for each site and a
diskette of the data in ASCII format.
17. Originator's Key Words 18. Availability Statlest
Wave data
Wave height
Hollywood Florida
19. U. S. Security Classsi. of the Report 20. U. S. Security Classt. of This Pasg 21. No. of Prges 22. Price
UNCLASSIFIED 1 65
WAVE DATA SUMMARY: HOLLYWOOD BEACH, FLORIDA,
JANUARY 1990 to MAY 1992
P. E. Dompe
and
D. M. Hanes
November 20, 1992
Sponsored by:
Sea Grant College Program
National Oceanographic and Atmospheric Administration
Coastal and Oceanographic Engineering Department
University of Florida
Gainesville, FL 32611
CONTENTS PAGE
TABLE OF CONTENTS ........................................................ 1
PART I: INTRODUCTION ............................ ............ 2
PART II: METHODOLOGY ............................ ........... 3
PART III: ANALYSIS TECHNIQUES ................................... 5
PART IV: DATA ................................ ... ........................ 6
PART V: ACKNOWLEDGMENTS ...................................... 7
PART VI: REFERENCES .................................................... 9
APPENDIX A: TIME SERIES OF THE WAVE PARAMETERS .... 10
APPENDIX B: WAVE ROSES .................... ...... .......... .. 46
APPENDIX C: DATA ON DISKETTE ........................................ 65
Wave Data Summary: Hollywood Beach, Florida, January 1990 to May 1992
I. INTRODUCTION
The Department of Coastal and Oceanographic Engineering at the University of
Florida has collected wave data from 1990 to 1992 at two near shore locations off the
coast of Hollywood Beach, Florida. The following report includes descriptions of the
methods used to collect and analyze the data as well as summaries of the data collected.
Fig. 1 Site location
Hollywood Beach is located on the southeast coast of Florida (Figure 1). The
wave fetch is restricted to the East and southeast by the Bahama Banks; the fetch to the
north is open to the Atlantic Ocean. There is a series of three hard-bottom regions
oriented parallel to the shoreline, in approximately 17, 30, and 70 feet of water. The
measurements were obtained at two sites: at site 1 the water depth is 35 feet, and at site 2
the water depth is approximately 17 feet. Site 2, located at 260 00.5' north longitude and
800 06' west latitude, is 1/4 mile due east of site 1. The seabed adjacent to the outer site
is a sandy region populated by several hard bottom communities, while the inner site is a
sand dominated region.
II. METHODOLOGY
Instrumentation at each site consists of a pressure transducer, a two axis
electromagnetic current meter (EM), and a data logger. There are also two turbidity
sensors (OBS) present, however that data will be included in a separate report. The
instruments are mounted on a goal post type system within the bottom 2 meters of the
water column (Fig. 2). Wave amplitude, wave period, and tides are recorded using a
Trans Metrics P21 pressure transducer mounted approximately 0.5 meters above the sea
bed. The transducer measures pressure fluctuations through changes in resistance of a
strain gage. Calibration is achieved in the laboratory using compressed air, resulting in
curves with typical regression coefficients near unity. Wave direction and currents are
measured using the EM mounted approximately 1.5 meters above the sea bed. The
current meter operates on the Faraday principle of electromagnetic induction. As sea
water (the conductor) moves in the magnetic field (produced by the current meter) a
voltage is induced that is proportional to the water velocity. Calibration of this instrument
is performed annually by the manufacturer. The data logger controls the sampling strategy
and records the data. The data logger is equipped with an 8 channel, 12 bit, analog-to-
digital converter and can store 20 megabytes of data.
Sampling efforts focus on continuous measurements at a rate that will both utilize
the logger's storage capacity over a month and record significant events. Data is recorded
north is open to the Atlantic Ocean. There is a series of three hard-bottom regions
oriented parallel to the shoreline, in approximately 17, 30, and 70 feet of water. The
measurements were obtained at two sites: at site 1 the water depth is 35 feet, and at site 2
the water depth is approximately 17 feet. Site 2, located at 260 00.5' north longitude and
800 06' west latitude, is 1/4 mile due east of site 1. The seabed adjacent to the outer site
is a sandy region populated by several hard bottom communities, while the inner site is a
sand dominated region.
II. METHODOLOGY
Instrumentation at each site consists of a pressure transducer, a two axis
electromagnetic current meter (EM), and a data logger. There are also two turbidity
sensors (OBS) present, however that data will be included in a separate report. The
instruments are mounted on a goal post type system within the bottom 2 meters of the
water column (Fig. 2). Wave amplitude, wave period, and tides are recorded using a
Trans Metrics P21 pressure transducer mounted approximately 0.5 meters above the sea
bed. The transducer measures pressure fluctuations through changes in resistance of a
strain gage. Calibration is achieved in the laboratory using compressed air, resulting in
curves with typical regression coefficients near unity. Wave direction and currents are
measured using the EM mounted approximately 1.5 meters above the sea bed. The
current meter operates on the Faraday principle of electromagnetic induction. As sea
water (the conductor) moves in the magnetic field (produced by the current meter) a
voltage is induced that is proportional to the water velocity. Calibration of this instrument
is performed annually by the manufacturer. The data logger controls the sampling strategy
and records the data. The data logger is equipped with an 8 channel, 12 bit, analog-to-
digital converter and can store 20 megabytes of data.
Sampling efforts focus on continuous measurements at a rate that will both utilize
the logger's storage capacity over a month and record significant events. Data is recorded
every 4 hours for 30 minutes at a sampling rate of 4 Hz. This produces records of 7166
points for each channel. There are 184 records per month per site.
Unlaxial
EM
1.5m
Pressure
Package
I5m
OBS2 5
OBS1 0.35m
I I II | II
I I Jetted 1.8m Jetted 1.6m Jetted 1.8m I
I I I II
II II II
Fig. 2 Elevation view of the mounting configuration
III. ANALYSIS TECHNIQUES
Pressure and two orthogonal horizontal components of water velocity define a
PUV system. This system utilizes the unique phase difference between pressure and the
horizontal velocity vector in a wave train to describe moments of the wave directional
spectrum (Long and Shay, 1991). PUV gages are most accurate for waves with narrow
directional distributions. They are less accurate for calculating wave direction for waves
with broad directional characteristics. Analysis of the pressure and current signals results
in significant wave height (Hmo), peak wave period, and peak wave direction for each
record. We utilize the spectrum-based definition for Hmo, which is equal to the square
root of four times the spectral variance (SPM). The peak of the directional spectral
every 4 hours for 30 minutes at a sampling rate of 4 Hz. This produces records of 7166
points for each channel. There are 184 records per month per site.
Unlaxial
EM
1.5m
Pressure
Package
I5m
OBS2 5
OBS1 0.35m
I I II | II
I I Jetted 1.8m Jetted 1.6m Jetted 1.8m I
I I I II
II II II
Fig. 2 Elevation view of the mounting configuration
III. ANALYSIS TECHNIQUES
Pressure and two orthogonal horizontal components of water velocity define a
PUV system. This system utilizes the unique phase difference between pressure and the
horizontal velocity vector in a wave train to describe moments of the wave directional
spectrum (Long and Shay, 1991). PUV gages are most accurate for waves with narrow
directional distributions. They are less accurate for calculating wave direction for waves
with broad directional characteristics. Analysis of the pressure and current signals results
in significant wave height (Hmo), peak wave period, and peak wave direction for each
record. We utilize the spectrum-based definition for Hmo, which is equal to the square
root of four times the spectral variance (SPM). The peak of the directional spectral
surface gives the frequency peak, and the direction of the highest energy waves (Dean and
Dalrymple 1984).
The methods ofLonguet-Higgins et al. (1963) are used to obtain the directional
spectrum. The directional spectrum is expressed as a Fourier sum,
1 2 1
[F(o, 0)]= A +2(Al cos +B Bsin 0)+-(A2 cos20+B2 sin 20)
2 3 6
In this equation, co is the wave frequency, and 0 is the compass heading from which the
waves approach. Power and cross spectra of the time series are computed and then
filtered to remove noise. To avoid amplifying high frequency noise in the data logging
system, wave frequencies corresponding to values ofkp equal to or less than 0.04 are
excluded. The influence of infra-gravity waves is removed by filtering wave periods higher
than 20 seconds. The computed power spectrum quantities are converted to values at the
free surface using the pressure and current response functions,
Scosh(k(h+ p))
cosh(kh)
Scosh(k(h +c))
cosh(kh)
Where k is the wave number, h is the still water depth, p is the depth of the pressure
sensor, c is the depth of the current meter, and g is gravity. Am and Bm are determined
for the first five harmonics of directional spectra in terms of the cross-spectra using the
following expressions.
OPP
A, (o)=
k2 kpr
p
4(w)-
k,k,;r
B O C= 2
k,2
Where 0 is the power and cross spectra of the pressure and current signals.
As stated earlier, the peak wave period and peak wave direction are determined from the
peak of the directional spectrum.
Site 1
VelcIty
Prosnure
1 990 19 91 1992
Velocity -
Pressure
1990 1 991 1992
Fig. 3. Data availability
IV. DATA
Monitoring of the Hollywood site began in January of 1990 and continued (with
occasional interruptions) through May of 1992. Figure 3 is a listing of each instruments'
operational status. Throughout this period the instruments were serviced bimonthly for
cleaning and monthly to offload data. The data is analyzed as stated earlier, and each 30
minute time series is plotted. Each time series is ranked for its quality. Quality of PUV
data is generally dependent on whether the instruments are operating properly or
malfunctioning. The pressure transducer was approximately 98% reliable, while the
current meter was reliable only 89% of the time. The results of the data collection and
analysis are plotted in Appendices A and B. Significant wave height, peak wave direction,
and peak wave period are plotted in Appendix A. Appendix B contains plots of the wave
roses for each deployment. Labeling of the figures in Appendix A and B is determined
using the following convention; Hab signifies deployment number a at site b. Each point
on the plots represents thirty minutes of data, where a line represents high quality data,
circles represent data with reduced accuracy, and stars represent bad data. Peak wave
direction in Appendix A is not plotted for instances where the sum of the standard
deviation of the current components is less than 0.2 cm/sec. This avoids plotting a wave
direction when no waves are present. The directional spectrum analysis is utilized to
produce the wave roses in Appendix B. The wave roses for deployments 5 and 6 both
sites, and site 2 of deployments 8,19, and 20 are not included due to failure (or partial
failure) of the current meter. The monthly averaged wave measurements are given in
Tables 1 and 2.
V. ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
This report was developed under the auspices of the Florida Sea Grant College
Program with support from the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration, Office
of Sea Grant, U. S. Department of Commerce, Grant No. R/C-S-30. We also wish to
thank Broward County Office of Natural Resources Protection for their support in kind
and the Coastal and Oceanographic laboratory staff at the University of Florida for their
assistance.
YR MNTH SIGNIFICANT WAVE PEAK WAVE PERIOD PEAK WAVE DIRECTION #of
HEIGHT (meters (seconds) (theta) PTS
MEAN STD MAX MIN MEAN STD MAX MIN MEAN STD MAX MIN
90 JAN 0.38 0.20 0.61 0.26 3.6 0.5 4.2 3.2 106 33 131 68 3
90 FEB 0.74 0.42 1.80 0.11 5.0 1.6 10.2 3.2 95 38 167 6 168
90 MAR 0.76 0.41 2.31 0.16 5.4 1.7 11.1 3.2 89 33 161 11 157
90 APR 0.23 0.06 0.37 0.13 5.3 2.2 8.8 3.2 49 0 49 49 26
90 MAY 0.42 0.34 1.55 0.11 4.0 0.8 6.6 3.1 123 22.2 152 68 51
90 JUN 0.26 0.14 0.71 0.12 3.9 1.5 13.4 3.2 118 40 146 49 93
90 JUL 0.34 0.21 0.83 0.12 3.8 0.8 8.8 3.2 105 32 161 38 87
90 AUG 0.26 0.18 0.75 0.10 3.6 0.6 5.4 3.2 138 19 161 114 96
90 SEP 0.27 0.12 0.74 0.11 3.4 0.7 11.1 3.2 N/A N/A N/A N/A 4
90 OCT 1.2 0.56 3.01 0.55 3.3 0.0 3.4 3.2 N/A N/A N/A N/A 27
90 NOV 0.65 0.41 1.76 0.15 5.6 2.5 12.2 3.2 72 31 131 8 47
90 DEC 0.64 0.38 1.43 0.13 5.1 2.1 11.1 3.2 70 31 133 6 124
91 JAN 0.63 0.14 0.83 0.38 4.2 0.6 5.0 3.2 94 36 135 49 12
91 FEB N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A
91 MAR N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A
91 APR 0.44 0.20 0.97 0.18 3.9 0.5 5.0 3.2 115 27 148 62 28
91 MAY 0.48 0.27 1.11 0.11 4.1 0.7 5.9 3.2 96 27 133 41 122
91 JUN 0.27 0.19 1.06 0.11 4.6 2.6 13.4 3.2 58 24 156 36 173
91 JUL 0.24 0.13 0.72 0.10 3.7 0.9 8.2 3.2 134 36 176 81 175
91 AUG 0.24 0.14 0.85 0.09 4.3 1.7 10.2 3.2 80 47 161 8 143
91 SEP 0.29 0.17 0.87 0.10 5.4 2.6 12.2 3.2 59 33 176 28 126
91 OCT N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A
91 NOV 0.71 0.40 1.76 0.12 6.0 2.7 13.4 3.2 73 30 148 13 147
91 DEC 0.60 0.49 2.21 0.10 5.1 1.8 9.5 3.2 70 31 133 6 134
92 JAN 0.51 0.29 1.40 0.12 6.6 2.6 12.2 3.2 68 33 139 30 132
92 FEB 0.71 0.21 1.15 0.36 7.2 2.6 10.2 3.2 70 45 150 30 27
92 MAR 0.41 0.31 1.69 0.10 5.7 2.2 10.2 3.2 72 42 144 28 55
92 APR N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A
92 MAY 0.50 0.27 0.82 0.11 5.1 2.0 10.2 3.2 54 29 133 26 21
Table 1: Monthly wave measurements, site 1
YR MNTH SIGNIFICANT WAVE PEAK WAVE PERIOD PEAK WAVE DIRECTION #of
HEIGHT (meters (seconds) (theta) PTS
MEAN STD MAX MIN MEAN STD MAX MIN MEAN STD MAX MIN
90 JAN N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A
90 FEB N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A
90 MAR 0.67 0.31 1.79 0.21 5.0 1.7 11.1 2.3 82 34 174 4 159
90 APR 0.27 0.05 0.38 0.18 3.1 1.5 7.3 2.3 114 78 178 2 24
90 MAY 0.44 0.30 1.30 0.10 3.9 1.1 6.6 2.3 120 15 148 84 87
90 JUN 0.32 0.16 0.79 0.09 3.9 2.0 12.2 2.3 96 32 139 36 179
90 JUL 0.36 0.20 0.78 0.11 3.7 1.0 8.2 2.4 105 29 170 38 90
90 AUG 0.25 0.14 0.69 0.10 3.1 0.8 5.4 2.4 N/A N/A N/A N/A 74
90 SEP 0.30 0.12 0.69 0.11 3.7 2.0 12.2 2.4 N/A N/A N/A N/A 106
90 OCT 0.63 0.40 1.86 0.10 5.2 2.4 15.0 2.5 N/A N/A N/A N/A 108
90 NOV 0.73 0.44 1.46 0.20 5.5 1.3 7.3 2.6 N/A N/A N/A N/A 28
90 DEC N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A
91 JAN N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A
91 FEB N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A
91 MAR 0.74 0.30 1.34 0.17 4.2 0.9 5.9 2.5 124 16 150 79 33
91 APR 0.64 0.37 1.64 0.12 4.4 1.3 8.2 2.4 98 30 159 15 174
91 MAY 0.58 0.35 1.80 0.13 4.1 1.1 7.3 2.3 98 24 140 32 161
91 JUN 0.34 0.22 1.08 0.11 3.8 2.1 15.0 2.5 80 36 167 30 162
91 JUL 0.28 0.13 0.70 0.12 3.3 1.1 8.8 2.3 97 26 141 45 174
91 AUG 0.27 0.12 0.73 0.13 3.6 1.6 9.5 2.3 87 38 141 32 171
91 SEP 0.30 0.14 0.73 0.13 4.8 2.7 11.1 2.4 57 36 161 11 126
91 OCT N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A
91 NOV 0.68 0.32 1.56 0.13 6.0 2.7 17.0 2.4 66 30 144 13 146
91 DEC 0.56 0.34 1.79 0.13 4.9 1.9 12.2 2.4 73 35 148 6 167
92 JAN 0.38 0.17 0.80 0.18 8.2 3.5 13.4 2.4 37 25 103 0 38
92 FEB 0.38 0.17 0.90 0.12 5.6 3.2 13.4 2.0 83 44 154 15 123
92 MAR 0.90 0.35 1.99 0.47 2.9 1.1 9.5 2.5 N/A N/A N/A N/A 81
92 APR 0.90 0.51 1.63 0.23 4.6 3.5 13.4 2.4 N/A N/A N/A N/A 20
92 MAY 0.40 0.21 0.85 0.13 4.6 2.5 12.2 2.3 N/A N/A N/A N/A 125
Table 2: Monthly wave measurements, site 2
VI. REFERENCES
Longuet-Higgins, M. S., D. E. Cartwright, and N. D. Smith, "Observations of the
Directional Spectrum of Sea Waves Using the Motions of Floating Buoy", in Ocean Wave
Spectra, Proceedings of a Conference Held at Easton, Prentice-Hall, Englewood Cliffs, N.
J., 1963, pp. 111-131.
Long, C. E., J. M. Oltman-Shay, "Directional Characteristics of Waves in Shallow
Water" Technical Report CREC-91-1, U. S. Army Corps of Engineers Washington D. C.,
1991, pp. 11-12.
minute time series is plotted. Each time series is ranked for its quality. Quality of PUV
data is generally dependent on whether the instruments are operating properly or
malfunctioning. The pressure transducer was approximately 98% reliable, while the
current meter was reliable only 89% of the time. The results of the data collection and
analysis are plotted in Appendices A and B. Significant wave height, peak wave direction,
and peak wave period are plotted in Appendix A. Appendix B contains plots of the wave
roses for each deployment. Labeling of the figures in Appendix A and B is determined
using the following convention; Hab signifies deployment number a at site b. Each point
on the plots represents thirty minutes of data, where a line represents high quality data,
circles represent data with reduced accuracy, and stars represent bad data. Peak wave
direction in Appendix A is not plotted for instances where the sum of the standard
deviation of the current components is less than 0.2 cm/sec. This avoids plotting a wave
direction when no waves are present. The directional spectrum analysis is utilized to
produce the wave roses in Appendix B. The wave roses for deployments 5 and 6 both
sites, and site 2 of deployments 8,19, and 20 are not included due to failure (or partial
failure) of the current meter. The monthly averaged wave measurements are given in
Tables 1 and 2.
V. ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
This report was developed under the auspices of the Florida Sea Grant College
Program with support from the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration, Office
of Sea Grant, U. S. Department of Commerce, Grant No. R/C-S-30. We also wish to
thank Broward County Office of Natural Resources Protection for their support in kind
and the Coastal and Oceanographic laboratory staff at the University of Florida for their
assistance.
YR MNTH SIGNIFICANT WAVE PEAK WAVE PERIOD PEAK WAVE DIRECTION #of
HEIGHT (meters (seconds) (theta) PTS
MEAN STD MAX MIN MEAN STD MAX MIN MEAN STD MAX MIN
90 JAN N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A
90 FEB N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A
90 MAR 0.67 0.31 1.79 0.21 5.0 1.7 11.1 2.3 82 34 174 4 159
90 APR 0.27 0.05 0.38 0.18 3.1 1.5 7.3 2.3 114 78 178 2 24
90 MAY 0.44 0.30 1.30 0.10 3.9 1.1 6.6 2.3 120 15 148 84 87
90 JUN 0.32 0.16 0.79 0.09 3.9 2.0 12.2 2.3 96 32 139 36 179
90 JUL 0.36 0.20 0.78 0.11 3.7 1.0 8.2 2.4 105 29 170 38 90
90 AUG 0.25 0.14 0.69 0.10 3.1 0.8 5.4 2.4 N/A N/A N/A N/A 74
90 SEP 0.30 0.12 0.69 0.11 3.7 2.0 12.2 2.4 N/A N/A N/A N/A 106
90 OCT 0.63 0.40 1.86 0.10 5.2 2.4 15.0 2.5 N/A N/A N/A N/A 108
90 NOV 0.73 0.44 1.46 0.20 5.5 1.3 7.3 2.6 N/A N/A N/A N/A 28
90 DEC N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A
91 JAN N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A
91 FEB N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A
91 MAR 0.74 0.30 1.34 0.17 4.2 0.9 5.9 2.5 124 16 150 79 33
91 APR 0.64 0.37 1.64 0.12 4.4 1.3 8.2 2.4 98 30 159 15 174
91 MAY 0.58 0.35 1.80 0.13 4.1 1.1 7.3 2.3 98 24 140 32 161
91 JUN 0.34 0.22 1.08 0.11 3.8 2.1 15.0 2.5 80 36 167 30 162
91 JUL 0.28 0.13 0.70 0.12 3.3 1.1 8.8 2.3 97 26 141 45 174
91 AUG 0.27 0.12 0.73 0.13 3.6 1.6 9.5 2.3 87 38 141 32 171
91 SEP 0.30 0.14 0.73 0.13 4.8 2.7 11.1 2.4 57 36 161 11 126
91 OCT N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A
91 NOV 0.68 0.32 1.56 0.13 6.0 2.7 17.0 2.4 66 30 144 13 146
91 DEC 0.56 0.34 1.79 0.13 4.9 1.9 12.2 2.4 73 35 148 6 167
92 JAN 0.38 0.17 0.80 0.18 8.2 3.5 13.4 2.4 37 25 103 0 38
92 FEB 0.38 0.17 0.90 0.12 5.6 3.2 13.4 2.0 83 44 154 15 123
92 MAR 0.90 0.35 1.99 0.47 2.9 1.1 9.5 2.5 N/A N/A N/A N/A 81
92 APR 0.90 0.51 1.63 0.23 4.6 3.5 13.4 2.4 N/A N/A N/A N/A 20
92 MAY 0.40 0.21 0.85 0.13 4.6 2.5 12.2 2.3 N/A N/A N/A N/A 125
Table 2: Monthly wave measurements, site 2
VI. REFERENCES
Longuet-Higgins, M. S., D. E. Cartwright, and N. D. Smith, "Observations of the
Directional Spectrum of Sea Waves Using the Motions of Floating Buoy", in Ocean Wave
Spectra, Proceedings of a Conference Held at Easton, Prentice-Hall, Englewood Cliffs, N.
J., 1963, pp. 111-131.
Long, C. E., J. M. Oltman-Shay, "Directional Characteristics of Waves in Shallow
Water" Technical Report CREC-91-1, U. S. Army Corps of Engineers Washington D. C.,
1991, pp. 11-12.
APPENDIX A
TIME SERIES OF WAVE PARAMETERS
WAVE PARAMETERS FOR DEPLOYMENT H011
From: January 31,1990 Julian Day 30.6
To: March 2,1990 Julian Day 60.16
o : data with reduced accuracy
: bad data
Significant Wave Height
2 I I I I I
.5
1
.5
0
30 35 40 45 50 55 60 6A
Julian Day
30 35 40 45 50 55 60 6:
Julian Day
Peak Wave Period
2 iI
8-
6
4
7.III
35 40
45 50
Julian Day
WAVE PARAMETERS FOR DEPLOYMENT H021
From: March 6,1990 Julian Day 64.6
To: April 5,1990 Julian Day 94.16
o : data with reduced accuracy
: bad data
SSignificant Wave Height
5
5
60 65 70 75 80 85 90 95
Julian Day
0 Peak Wave Direction (+)
+
0+
+ + +++ ++ + + +
+- + 4 + + + ++ +
+
"+ + + + + +
+ + + *-% +Roil+ + + + -
+
3 I I I I--
60 65 70 75 80 85 90 95
Julian Day
Peak Wave Period
2
64
60 65 70 75 80 85 90 95
Julian Day
12
0.
20(
15(
o 10c
*S 10<
WAVE PARAMETERS FOR DEPLOYMENT H022
From: March 5,1990 Julian Day 63.6
To: April 5,1990 Julian Day 94.0
o : data with reduced accuracy
: bad data
Significant Wave Height
S 1
0.5 -
0
60 65 70 75 80 85 90 95
Julian Day
,200 Peak Wave Direction (+)
200
+++ + +
150 +
+ + 4f + 4 -
+ + + ++
100- ;++ ++ +
i + ++ + + + +
100 % ++ + + ++: +++ + ++ + +
50+ ++ + 4- +-
I I + + + 1+
Julian Day
Peak Wave Period
65 70
75 80
Julian Day
WAVE PARAMETERS FOR DEPLOYMENT H031
From: May 17,1990 Julian Day 136.5
To: May 26,1990 Julian Day 145.0
o : data with reduced accuracy
: bad data
36 137 138 139 140 141 142 143 144 14
Julian Day
Peak Wave Direction (+)
+
+ + ++ ++
+ +
+
I
137 138 139 140 141
Julian Day
3 1 1 I I I
136 137 138 139 140 141
Julian Day
142 143 144 145
142 143 144 145
2
1.5
S1
0.5
50
0
1:
36
WAVE PARAMETERS FOR DEPLOYMENT H032
From: May 17,1990 Julian Day 136.5
To: June 15,1990 Julian Day 165.5
o : data with reduced accuracy
: bad data
1.5 ,Significant Wave Height
1.5 ii
1
0.5
0
135 140 145 150 155 160 165 170
Julian Day
Peak Wave Direction (+)
150 + +.
++ +++ +++ +
++ ++ + +
+++ + ++ + ++ ++++ ++
++.+ + 4-+
+ + +
504 +
50 + ++-
0 I I
135 140 145 150 155 160 165 170
Julian Day
15 Peak Wave Period
15
10
5-
135 140 145 150 155 160 165 170
Julian Day
WAVE PARAMETERS FOR DEPLOYMENT H041
From: June 15,1990 Julian Day 165.5
To: July 15,1990 Julian Day 195.6
o : data with reduced accuracy
: bad data
Significant Wave Height
0.8-
0.6
0.4
165 170 175 180 185 190
Julian Day
200 Peak Wave Direction (+)
150 +++
+
100 -
50 ++
n+
A1 I I I I
180 185
Julian Day
165 170 175 180 185 190 195
Julian Day
200
200
200
WAVE PARAMETERS FOR DEPLOYMENT H042
From: June 15,1990 Julian Day 165.5
To: July 16,1990 Julian Day 196.16
o : data with reduced accuracy
: bad data
180 1
Julian Day
200 Peak Wave Direction (+)
200
150
100 +
+ + .-
50- + + +
50 + +
(I I I I
180 185
Julian Day
190
Peak Wave Period
5 ,
0-
5-
----- i ---- i --------- i ---- i ---- i ----
165 170 175
180 185
Julian Day
200
200
WAVE PARAMETERS FOR DEPLOYMENT H051
From: August 13,1990 Julian Day 224.75
To: September 28,1990 Julian Day 270.5
o : data with reduced accuracy
: bad data
1 Significant Wave Height
1
0.8
0.6
0.4
0.2
0I
220 230 240 250 260 270 280
Julian Day
200 Peak Wave Direction (+)
200
150 +
+
. 100-
50
0 I
220 230 240 250 260 270 280
Julian Day
12Peak Wave Period
12
1
0
8
6-
4-
3< R~Rtfv""
220 230 240 250 260 270 280
Julian Day
WAVE PARAMETERS FOR DEPLOYMENT H052
From: August 13,1990 Julian Day 224.75
To: September 27,1990 Julian Day 269.5
o : data with reduced accuracy
: bad data
0.8 Significant Wave Height
0.8
0.6
0.4
0.2
220 225 230 235 240 245 250 255 260 265 270
Julian Day
Peak Wave Direction (+)
-0.05 1 'I I
220 225 230 235 240 245 250 255 260 265 270
Julian Day
c15 Peak Wave Period
15
10
5
0
220 225 230 235 240 245 250 255 260 265 270
Julian Day
E
0
-
-------- ---- ------------------- --- ------
\ f
WAVE PARAMETERS FOR DEPLOYMENT H061
From: October 4,1990 Julian Day 276.5
To: October 13,1990 Julian Day 283.5
o : data with reduced accuracy
: bad data
4 SSignificant Wave Height
3 -
2
1
0
276 277 278 279 280 281 282 283 284
Julian Day
Peak Wave Direction (+)
I I I I f I I
280
Julian Day
282
Peak Wave Period
-I
278 279
280
Julian Day
282
76
0.05
-0.05
2'
3.45
3.4
3.35
3.3
3.25
276
13
WAVE PARAMETERS FOR DEPLOYMENT H062
From: October 5,1990 Julian Day 277.5
To: November 8,1990 Julian Day 311.0
o : data with reduced accuracy
: bad data
Significant Wave Height
280 285 290
295
Julian Day
300
Peak Wave Direction (+)
280
295
Julian Day
Peak Wave Period
275 280 285 290 295 300 305 310
Julian Day
315
75
2
1.5
E 1
0.5
0
2'
0.05
0
-0.05
2'
20
75
r--
I I
WAVE PARAMETERS FOR DEPLOYMENT H071
From: November 19,1990 Julian Day 322.5
To: January 8,1991 Julian Day 3.25
o : data with reduced accuracy
: bad data
,2 Significant Wave Height
1.5
S 1
0.5
0
320 325 330 335 340 345 350 355 360 365 370
Julian Day
150 Peak Wave Direction (+)
150
+
_P.a -h e + +
+ + + + + + + +
100 + + + +
+ + +
+ ++ ++
0
+
320 325 330 335 340 345 350 355 360 365 370
Julian Day
Peak Wave Period
15
10
5
320 325 330 335 340 345 350 355 360 365 370
Julian Day
WAVE PARAMETERS FOR DEPLOYMENT H072
From: November 20,1990 Julian Day 323.5
To: December 18,1990 Julian Day 351.0
o : data with reduced accuracy
: bad data
Significant Wave Height
II
5-
1
5
325 330
335 340
Julian Day
Peak Wave Direction (+)
335 340
Julian Day
Peak Wave Period
335 340
Julian Day
23
320
0.05 r-
350
20
3
15
10
5
0
3
350
20
345
350
"U"U~"'~"~~~ ---------- ------ --------------
WAVE PARAMETERS FOR DEPLOYMENT H082
From: January 17,1991 Julian Day 16.0
To: February 13,1991 Julian Day 43.0
o : data with reduced accuracy
: bad data
20 25 30 35 40
Julian Day
Peak Wave Direction (+)
30
Julian Day
Peak Wave Period
)
15 20 25 30 35 40 4:
Julian Day
0-
15
0.05 r
-0.05
1
5
............................
I I I i I
WAVE PARAMETERS FOR DEPLOYMENT H092
From: March 26,1991 Julian Day 84.16
To: April 25,1991 Julian Day 114.5
o : data with reduced accuracy
: bad data
2 Significant Wave Height
1.5 -
S 1
0.5
80 85 90 95 100 105 110 115
Julian Day
200 Peak Wave Direction (+)
200 I :
S
8100 85 90 95 100 105 110 115
10 + Pea Wav Pe
+ ++ + ++.+
1++"+4. + ++ +
50- + +
+ +
0
80 85 90 95 100 105 110 115
Julian Day
Peak Wave Period
10
8-
6
4
80 85 90 95 100 105 110 115
Julian Day
WAVE PARAMETERS FOR DEPLOYMENT H101
From: April 26,1991 Julian Day 115.5
To: May 19,1991 Julian Day 138.7
o : data with reduced accuracy
: bad data
15 Significant Wave Height
1.5
1
0.5
0 I
115 120 125 130 135 140
Julian Day
150 Peak Wave Direction (+)
150
+ + + + ++
+ + +
+ + + ++ + + +
100 + + + + + ++
+ + + +
S+ +
+ + + ++
50 + +
++
0
0 I---------------------------
115 120 125 130 135 140
Julian Day
Peak Wave Period
5-
3 ---- i---------------------
4
3 ,I I
115 120 125 130 135 140
Julian Day
26
WAVE PARAMETERS FOR DEPLOYMENT H102
From: April 26,1991 Julian Day 115.5
To: May 26,1991 Julian Day 145.5
o : data with reduced accuracy
: bad data
Significant Wave Height
1.5
E 1
115 120 125 130 135 140 145 1
Julian Day
Peak Wave Direction (+)
+ *+ +-+ + +
S+ + ++ + +
+ ++4++ + -+ + + + + ++ + + + +
+ + + + +
+ ++ + +++ + ++
+ ++ + + + ++ + ++ ++
+ +
+ + ++ ++ +
+ +
15 120 125 130 135 140 145 15
Julian Day
Peak Wave Period
I I I
120 125
130 135
Julian Day
27
150
100
50
0
1
4
2
11
15
WAVE PARAMETERS FOR DEPLOYMENT H 11
From: May 30,1991 Julian Day 149.5
To: June 27,1991 Julian Day 177.3
o : data with reduced accuracy
: bad data
1.5 Significant Wave Height
1.5
1
0.5
0
145 150 155 160 165 170 175 180
Julian Day
200 Peak Wave Direction (+)
200 ---i--
150
. 100 +
50- + -+ ++
0 I
145 150 155 160 165 170 175 180
Julian Day
15 Peak Wave Period
10-
5
0
145 150 155 160 165 170 175 180
Julian Day
28
WAVE PARAMETERS FOR DEPLOYMENT H112
From: May 30,1991 Julian Day 149.5
To: June 25,1991 Julian Day 175.5
o : data with reduced accuracy
: bad data
1.5 Significant Wave Height
1-
0.5
0I I
145 150 155 160 165 170 175 180
Julian Day
200 Peak Wave Direction (+)
200
150- + ++
+
S 100- ++ +
+ +++ +
50- + .* ++
+ + + +
0 I I
145 150 155 160 165 170 175 180
Julian Day
_20 IPeak Wave Period
15
5-
10
0 I-I I I I
145 150 155 160 165 170 175 180
Julian Day
29
WAVE PARAMETERS FOR DEPLOYMENT H121
From: June 28,1991 Julian Day 178.5
To: July 24,1991 Julian Day 204.5
o : data with reduced accuracy
: bad data
0.8Significant Wave Height
0.8
0.6
0.4
0.2
0I
175 180 185 190 195 200 205
Julian Day
Peak Wave Direction (+)
200
+
150
+
S100
50-
50
0 ---------- I -
175 180 185 190 195 200 205
Julian Day
15Peak Wave Period
15
10
5
175 180 185 190 195 200 205
Julian Day
WAVE PARAMETERS FOR DEPLOYMENT H122
From: June 28,1991 Julian Day 178.5
To: July 24,1991 Julian Day 204.3
o : data with reduced accuracy
: bad data
Significant Wave Height
-
180 185
200
190
Julian Day
Peak Wave Direction (+)
190
Julian Day
200
Peak Wave Period
. ^^^V~lJJA^
180 185
0.8
0.6
E 0.4
0.2
0
175
150
100-
+
+ + + +
+ + + ++
++ +
+ +
++ +
++
205
175
190
Julian Day
200
205
2
WAVE PARAMETERS FOR DEPLOYMENT H131
From: July 26,1991 Julian Day 206.5
To: August 21,1991 Julian Day 232.3
o : data with reduced accuracy
: bad data
1 Significant Wave Height
0.8
0.6
0.4
0.2
0I I I
205 210 215 220 225 230 235
Julian Day
200 Peak Wave Direction (+)
150 +
+ + + + +
100 -
50 + + +-
+ +
0 I
205 210 215 220 225 230 235
Julian Day
Peak Wave Period
12
10
8-
6-
4
21
205 210 215 220 225 230 235
Julian Day
WAVE PARAMETERS FOR DEPLOYMENT H132
From: July 26,1991 Julian Day 206.5
To: August 26,1991 Julian Day 237.0
o : data with reduced accuracy
: bad data
0.Significant Wave Height
0.8
0.6
S 0.4
0.2
01
205 210 215 220 225 230 235 240
Julian Day
n150 Peak Wave Direction (+)
150
++ ++
+
j + + +
+
50 + +
++ ++
0 I I I
205 210 215 220 225 230 235 240
Julian Day
_10 Peak Wave Period
10 .
8-
6
4
2
205 210 215 220 225 230 235 240
Julian Day
WAVE PARAMETERS FOR DEPLOYMENT H141
From: August 28,1991 Julian Day 239.5
To: September 22,1991 Julian Day 264.0
o : data with reduced accuracy
: bad data
Significant Wave Height
250
Julian Day
Peak Wave Direction (+)
260
250
Julian Day
Peak Wave Period
250
Julian Day
0
2:
200
150
100
50
0
2:
+++
+ + + +
I I I I I
240
260
35
35
WAVE PARAMETERS FOR DEPLOYMENT H142
From: August 28,1991 Julian Day 239.5
To: September 22,1991 Julian Day 264.0
o : data with reduced accuracy
: bad data
Significant Wave Height
250
Julian Day
Peak Wave Direction (+)
250
Julian Day
Peak Wave Period
250
Julian Day
0.8
0.6
E 0.4
0.2
0
2:
200
240
35
r-
260
150 F
100
++
+ +
.+++
+ +
+
+ -
++-+ +++ + +
+-
240
5
i5
)
I.
260
260
240
255
,,
26
26
WAVE PARAMETERS FOR DEPLOYMENT H151
From: November 6,1991 Julian Day 309.7
To: December 2,1991 Julian Day 335.8
o : data with reduced accuracy
: bad data
Significant Wave Height
2
5
1
5
0 I
310 315
320 325
Julian Day
330
Peak Wave Direction (+)
13 IU Ii +
++
++ ++ ++
++++ +
100 ++ + +
+ ++ +4t ++
50 + ++ + ++
50- + + W t
+
4-* +
A
310
320 325
Julian Day
Peak Wave Period
320 325
Julian Day
330
330
335
340
305
0
305
I I I I I
. I-
WAVE PARAMETERS FOR DEPLOYMENT H152
From: November 6,1991 Julian Day 309.7
To: December 7,1991 Julian Day 340.3
o : data with reduced accuracy
: bad data
Significant Wave Height
315 320
325
Julian Day
Peak Wave Direction (+)
150
+ + + +
+ +
100- +++++ + + +
++ + + +
+ + V++ +
100 + + + +
+ +. + + +
50 +
0 +++ +-
++ + +++++_-+- +4.
4* +
I+
315
325
Julian Day
335
Peak Wave Period
0 1 I I I I I I
305 310 315 320 325 330 335 340
Julian Day
2
1.5
E 1
0.5
0
3(
I I
305
345
05
4J
WAVE PARAMETERS FOR DEPLOYMENT H161
From: December 11,1991 Julian Day 344.5
To: January 6,1992 Julian Day 5.3
o : data with reduced accuracy
: bad data
25 Significant Wave Height
2.5
2
1.5
1-
0.5
0 I
340 345 350 355 360 365 370 375
Julian Day
150 Peak Wave Direction (+)
150
++
+ + +
100 +
zoo
+ +
O + +H.,+4
++ + + + + +94- + +
+
0 1++------
340 345 350 355 360 365 370 375
Julian Day
15 Peak Wave Period
10
5-
340 i 345 350 355 360 365 370 375
Julian Day
38
WAVE PARAMETERS FOR DEPLOYMENT H162
From: December 11,1991 Julian Day 344.5
To: January 7,1992 Julian Day 6.3
o : data with reduced accuracy
: bad data
Significant Wave Height
2
.5
1
.5
A I
355 360
Julian Day
Peak Wave Direction (+)
355 360
Julian Day
Peak Wave Period
355 360
Julian Day
340 345 350
370
100
50-
+ +
+ + + ++
+ ++
++ +
++ +-
++ +4 + +++ +
++ + + + + _+4- + +
+ ++ + + + + +
+ + +
,+- ii
II -- -- --
340
370
5
'5
I
(
340
365
370
37
37
WAVE PARAMETERS FOR DEPLOYMENT H171
From: January 9,1992 Julian Day 8.5
To: February 6,1992 Julian Day 35.5
o : data with reduced accuracy
: bad data
.5 Significant Wave Height
.5 ---------- -----i- -- i ---- i ---
1-
5 10 15 20 25 30 35 4C
Julian Day
50 Peak Wave Direction (+)
5+ + +++
+ +
30- + +
+ +
0
5 10 15 20 25 30 35 4C
Julian Day
15 Peak Wave Period
15
10
5-
5 10 15 20 25 30 35 4(
Julian Day
40
WAVE PARAMETERS FOR DEPLOYMENT H182
From: February 7,1992 Julian Day 37.0
To: February 27,1992 Julian Day 57.5
o : data with reduced accuracy
: bad data
1 Significant Wave Height
0.8
0.6
0.4
0.2
0 I
35 40 45 50 55 6C
Julian Day
200 Peak Wave Direction (+)
200 +
150- + + ++ +
+ ++ + ++ ++
++ +++
100 +
+ +
50- +++ +. ++ +
+ +++++ ++
+
35 40 45 50 55 6C
Julian Day
15 Peak Wave Period
15
10
5
0 I
35 40 45 50 55 6(
Julian Day
WAVE PARAMETERS FOR DEPLOYMENT H191
From: March 12,1992 Julian Day 70.5
To: April 10,1992 Julian Day 99.0
o : data with reduced accuracy
: bad data
Significant Wave Height
+ +++ ++ +
-+++ -
t t ~ i i
++ + +
+ ,+
++
70 72 74 76 78 80
Julian Day
Peak Wave Direction
82 84 86 88 90
+ +
+
100 + +
+
50 + +
+ ++ ++ ++ + +
+
70 72 74 76 78 80 82 84 86 88 9(
Julian Day
2 Peak Wave Period
12 i- i
10- ++ +
+ + +
+ +
+ + +
++ + -
+ + + +
+ ++ + + +++
S+ ++ + + + + ++
++ +++ ++ + ++++ + + +++
SI I I I i i i
72 74 76 78 80
Julian Day
82 84 86 88 90
0.5
+
+ +++++ ++
+++
SI-
WAVE PARAMETERS FOR DEPLOYMENT H192
From: March 12,1992 Julian Day 70.5
To: April 7,1992 Julian Day 96.6
o : data with reduced accuracy
: bad data
Significant Wave Height
85
Julian Day
Peak Wave Direction (+)
85
Julian Day
Peak Wave Period
'0 75 80 85 90 95 1C
Julian Day
43
2
1.5
E 1
0.5
0
7
0.05
0
-0.05
7
0
0
WAVE PARAMETERS FOR DEPLOYMENT H201
From: May 13,1992 Julian Day 132.5
To: May 30,1992 Julian Day 149.0
o : data with reduced accuracy
: bad data
1 Significant Wave Height (+)
.8- + +
+ + + +
+
.6 +
+
+ +
.4
+
+
.2 +
SI I I I
134 136 138 140 142
Julian Day
144 146 148 150
150 Peak Wave Direction (+)
150
+
100
+
50 ++
+ +
+
0 i ----- i i ---- i
132 134 136 138 140 142
Julian Day
146 148 150
Peak Wave Period (+)
134 136 138 140 142
Julian Day
146 148 150
12
10
8
6
+ +
+ +
+ ~
+f+ +
132
2 1
WAVE PARAMETERS FOR DEPLOYMENT H202
From: April 29,1992 Julian Day 118.5
To: May 22,1992 Julian Day 141.0
o : data with reduced accuracy
: bad data
1 __Significant Wave Height
.8
.6
.4
.2
n
120 125
130
Julian Day
Peak Wave Direction (+)
130
Julian Day
Peak Wave Period
15 120 125 130 135 140 1
Julian Day
45
15
1
0.05
0
-0.05
1
15
--------------------------------
APPENDIX B
WAVE ROSES
Sig. Wave Height Hmo, meters.
SzN]
0
2
0% 20% S
Wave Rose January 1990 to May 1992
All Deployments Site 1
Sig. Wave Height Hmo, meters.
N
0
2
0% 20%
0% 20%S
Wave Rose March 1990 to Febuary 1992
All Deployments Site 2
Sig. Wave Height Hmo, meters.
N
0
2
E
0% 20% S
Wave Rose 30\1\1990 to 2\3\1990
Deployment; H011
Sig. Wave Height Hmo, meters.
0
2
0% 20% S
Wave Rose 6\3\1990 to 5\4\1990
Deployment; H021
Sig. Wave Height Hmo, meters.
EZ N
0
2
0% 20% S
Wave Rose 5\3\1990 to 5\4\1990
Deployment; H022
Sig. Wave Height Hmo, meters.
0
2
( E
0% 20% S
Wave Rose 17/5/1990 to 26/5/1990
Deployment; H031
Sig. Wave Height Hmo, meters.
N
0
2
0% 20% S
0% 20% S
Wave Rose 17/5/1990 to 15/6/1990
Deployment; H032
Sig. Wave Height Hmo, meters.
C: N
0
2
0% 20% S
0% 20% S
Wave Rose 15/6/1990 to 15/7/1990
Deployment; H041
Sig. Wave Height Hmo, meters.
Wave Rose 15/6/1990 to 15/7/1990
Deployment; H042
0
2
0% 20% S
Sig. Wave Height Hmo, meters.
N
0
2
% 2
0% 20% S
Wave Rose 19/11/1990 to 4/1/1991
Deployment; H071
Sig. Wave Height Hmo, meters.
: N
0
2
0% 20% S
Wave Rose 26/3/1991 to 25/4/1991
Deployment; H092
Sig. Wave Height Hmo, meters.
N
0
2
E
0% 20% S
Wave Rose 26/4/1991 to 19/5/1991
Deployment; H101
Sig. Wave Height Hmo, meters.
N
0
2
0% 20% S
Wave Rose 26/4/1991 to 26/5/1991
Deployment; H102
Sig. Wave Height Hmo, meters.
EZ N
0
2
E
0% 20% S
Wave Rose 30/5/1991 to 27/6/1991
Deployment; H111
Sig. Wave Height Hmo, meters.
E2E N
0
2
S2 E
0% 20% S
Wave Rose 30/5/1991 to 25/6/1991
Deployment; H112
Sig. Wave Height Hmo, meters.
EO N
0
2
E
0% 20% S
Wave Rose 28/6/1991 to 24/7/1991
Deployment; H121
Sig. Wave Height Hmo, meters.
V b9 N
0
2
0% 20% S
0% 20% S
Wave Rose 28/6/1991 to 24/7/1991
Deployment; H122
Sig. Wave Height Hmo, meters.
: N
0
Iq] czu] ~:
2
E
0% 20% S
Wave Rose 26/7/1991 to 21/8/1991
Deployment; H131
Sig. Wave Height Hmo, meters.
N
0
2
S2 E
0% 20% S
Wave Rose 26/7/1991 to 26/8/1991
Deployment; H132
Sig. Wave Height Hmo, meters.
] N
0
2
(E
0% 20% S
Wave Rose 28/8/1991 to 22/9/1991
Deployment; H141
Sig. Wave Height Hmo, meters.
0
2
E
0% 20% S
Wave Rose 28/8/1991 to 22/9/1991
Deployment; H142
Sig. Wave Height Hmo, meters.
: N
0
2
E
0% 20% S
Wave Rose 6/11/1991 to 2/12/1992
Deployment; H151
Sig. Wave Height Hmo, meters.
N
0
2
E
0% 20% S
Wave Rose 6/11/1991 to 7/12/1992
Deployment; H152
Sig. Wave Height Hmo, meters.
3 N
0
2
E
0% 20% S
Wave Rose 11/12/1991 to 6/1/1992
Deployment; H161
Sig. Wave Height Hmo, meters.
3 N
0
2
0% 20% S
Wave Rose 11/12/1991 to 7/1/1992
Deployment; H162
Sig. Wave Height Hmo, meters.
C: N
0
2
0% 20% S
Wave Rose 9/1/1992 to 5/2/1992
Deployment; H171
Sig. Wave Height Hmo, meters.
0
2
0% 20% S
0% 20% S
Wave Rose 7/2/1992 to 27/2/1992
Deployment; H182
Sig. Wave Height Hmo, meters.
0
2
E
0% 20% S
Wave Rose 12/3/1992 to 10/4/1992
Deployment; H191
Sig. Wave Height Hmo, meters.
0
2
E
0% 20% S
Wave Rose 13/5/1992 to 30/5/1992
Deployment; H201
APPENDIX C
DATA ON DISKETTE
The data is presented on diskette in ASCII format as follows. Each deployment is
in its own file, and files are named using the following convention; wavehab.dat where a
and b distinguish the deployment number and site as mentioned earlier. The files are in
matrix form. Columns 1 through 7 are time in Julian days (example: noon, January 1
equals Julian day 0.5 ), significant wave height (meters), peak wave period (seconds),
peak wave direction (the compass heading from which the waves approach in degrees),
quality of the pressure signal, and quality of the current signal respectively. Quality of the
pressure and current signals are tagged as follows: 1, 2, 3, or 0 corresponding to good
data, data with reduced accuracy, bad data, or no data respectively. Rows represent the
results of thirty minute observations.
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