• TABLE OF CONTENTS
HIDE
 Front Cover
 Report documentation page
 Title Page
 Table of Contents
 Introduction
 Methodology
 Analysis techniques
 Acknowledgments
 References
 Appendix A: Time series of wave...
 Appendix B: Waves roses
 Appendix C: Data on diskette






Group Title: UFL/COEL (University of Florida. Coastal and Oceanographic Engineering Laboratory) ; 92/016
Title: Wave data summary: Hollywood Beach, Florida, January 1990 to May 1992
CITATION PDF VIEWER THUMBNAILS PAGE IMAGE ZOOMABLE
Full Citation
STANDARD VIEW MARC VIEW
Permanent Link: http://ufdc.ufl.edu/UF00079948/00001
 Material Information
Title: Wave data summary: Hollywood Beach, Florida, January 1990 to May 1992
Series Title: UFL/COEL (University of Florida. Coastal and Oceanographic Engineering Laboratory) ; 92/016
Physical Description: Book
Creator: Dompe, P. E.
Hanes, D.M.
Publisher: Coastal and Oceanographic Engineering Department, University of Florida
Publication Date: 1992
 Subjects
Subject: Ocean waves
 Record Information
Bibliographic ID: UF00079948
Volume ID: VID00001
Source Institution: University of Florida
Holding Location: University of Florida
Rights Management: All rights reserved by the source institution and holding location.

Downloads

This item has the following downloads:

UF00079948 ( PDF )


Table of Contents
    Front Cover
        Front Cover
    Report documentation page
        Unnumbered ( 2 )
    Title Page
        Title Page
    Table of Contents
        Page 1
    Introduction
        Page 2
        Page 3
    Methodology
        Page 3
        Page 4
    Analysis techniques
        Page 4
        Page 5
        Page 6
        Page 7
    Acknowledgments
        Page 8
        Page 9
        Page 7
    References
        Page 9
    Appendix A: Time series of wave parameters
        Page 10
        Page 11
        Page 12
        Page 13
        Page 14
        Page 15
        Page 16
        Page 17
        Page 18
        Page 19
        Page 20
        Page 21
        Page 22
        Page 23
        Page 24
        Page 25
        Page 26
        Page 27
        Page 28
        Page 29
        Page 30
        Page 31
        Page 32
        Page 33
        Page 34
        Page 35
        Page 36
        Page 37
        Page 38
        Page 39
        Page 40
        Page 41
        Page 42
        Page 43
        Page 44
        Page 45
    Appendix B: Waves roses
        Page 46
        Page 47
        Page 48
        Page 49
        Page 50
        Page 51
        Page 52
        Page 53
        Page 54
        Page 55
        Page 56
        Page 57
        Page 58
        Page 59
        Page 60
        Page 61
        Page 62
        Page 63
        Page 64
    Appendix C: Data on diskette
        Page 65
Full Text



UFL/COEL-92/016


WAVE DATA SUMMARY: HOLLYWOOD BEACH,
FLORIDA, JANUARY 1990 TO MAY 1992






by


P.E. Dompe
and
D.M. Hanes


November 20, 1992





REPORT DOCUMENTATION PAGE
1. sport No. 2. 3. Lcipliat *a aceassl- o.
UFL/COEL-92/016

4. Title aod Subtitle 5. Report Dat
11/20/92.
6.
Wave Data Summary: Hollywood Beach, Florida, January 1990 to May 1992
7. Author(s) 8. Pertaorsui Orlaaiztioe report No.

P. E. Dompe & D. M. Hanes UFiL/COEL-92/016
9. Perfomoin Organuatioo Name and Address 10. proJect/Task/Uork Unit No.
Coastal and Oceanographic Engineering Department
University of Florida
336 Weil Hall 11. Caotract or Grant No.
336 Well Hall
Gainesville, FL 32611 R/C
13. Type of Report
12. Sponsorn|g Organization Name and Address



Florida Sea Grant College Program/ NOAA -.

15. Suppleenutary Notes



16. Abstract


The following report presents wave data collected at two near shore locations off Hollywood Beach, Florida beginning in
January 1990 and ending May 1992. The methods used to collect and analyze the data are also presented. Significant wave
height, peak wave period, and peak wave direction are presented in time series plots, and summarized monthly in tables.
Appendices include the time series plots, wave roses of each deployment period, an overall wave rose for each site and a
diskette of the data in ASCII format.


17. Originator's Key Words 18. Availability Statlest
Wave data
Wave height
Hollywood Florida


19. U. S. Security Classsi. of the Report 20. U. S. Security Classt. of This Pasg 21. No. of Prges 22. Price

UNCLASSIFIED 1 65

















WAVE DATA SUMMARY: HOLLYWOOD BEACH, FLORIDA,
JANUARY 1990 to MAY 1992








P. E. Dompe
and
D. M. Hanes


November 20, 1992




Sponsored by:

Sea Grant College Program
National Oceanographic and Atmospheric Administration










Coastal and Oceanographic Engineering Department
University of Florida
Gainesville, FL 32611












CONTENTS PAGE

TABLE OF CONTENTS ........................................................ 1

PART I: INTRODUCTION ............................ ............ 2

PART II: METHODOLOGY ............................ ........... 3

PART III: ANALYSIS TECHNIQUES ................................... 5

PART IV: DATA ................................ ... ........................ 6

PART V: ACKNOWLEDGMENTS ...................................... 7

PART VI: REFERENCES .................................................... 9

APPENDIX A: TIME SERIES OF THE WAVE PARAMETERS .... 10

APPENDIX B: WAVE ROSES .................... ...... .......... .. 46

APPENDIX C: DATA ON DISKETTE ........................................ 65













Wave Data Summary: Hollywood Beach, Florida, January 1990 to May 1992


I. INTRODUCTION

The Department of Coastal and Oceanographic Engineering at the University of

Florida has collected wave data from 1990 to 1992 at two near shore locations off the

coast of Hollywood Beach, Florida. The following report includes descriptions of the

methods used to collect and analyze the data as well as summaries of the data collected.


Fig. 1 Site location

Hollywood Beach is located on the southeast coast of Florida (Figure 1). The

wave fetch is restricted to the East and southeast by the Bahama Banks; the fetch to the










north is open to the Atlantic Ocean. There is a series of three hard-bottom regions

oriented parallel to the shoreline, in approximately 17, 30, and 70 feet of water. The

measurements were obtained at two sites: at site 1 the water depth is 35 feet, and at site 2

the water depth is approximately 17 feet. Site 2, located at 260 00.5' north longitude and

800 06' west latitude, is 1/4 mile due east of site 1. The seabed adjacent to the outer site

is a sandy region populated by several hard bottom communities, while the inner site is a

sand dominated region.

II. METHODOLOGY

Instrumentation at each site consists of a pressure transducer, a two axis

electromagnetic current meter (EM), and a data logger. There are also two turbidity

sensors (OBS) present, however that data will be included in a separate report. The

instruments are mounted on a goal post type system within the bottom 2 meters of the

water column (Fig. 2). Wave amplitude, wave period, and tides are recorded using a

Trans Metrics P21 pressure transducer mounted approximately 0.5 meters above the sea

bed. The transducer measures pressure fluctuations through changes in resistance of a

strain gage. Calibration is achieved in the laboratory using compressed air, resulting in

curves with typical regression coefficients near unity. Wave direction and currents are

measured using the EM mounted approximately 1.5 meters above the sea bed. The

current meter operates on the Faraday principle of electromagnetic induction. As sea

water (the conductor) moves in the magnetic field (produced by the current meter) a

voltage is induced that is proportional to the water velocity. Calibration of this instrument

is performed annually by the manufacturer. The data logger controls the sampling strategy

and records the data. The data logger is equipped with an 8 channel, 12 bit, analog-to-

digital converter and can store 20 megabytes of data.

Sampling efforts focus on continuous measurements at a rate that will both utilize

the logger's storage capacity over a month and record significant events. Data is recorded










north is open to the Atlantic Ocean. There is a series of three hard-bottom regions

oriented parallel to the shoreline, in approximately 17, 30, and 70 feet of water. The

measurements were obtained at two sites: at site 1 the water depth is 35 feet, and at site 2

the water depth is approximately 17 feet. Site 2, located at 260 00.5' north longitude and

800 06' west latitude, is 1/4 mile due east of site 1. The seabed adjacent to the outer site

is a sandy region populated by several hard bottom communities, while the inner site is a

sand dominated region.

II. METHODOLOGY

Instrumentation at each site consists of a pressure transducer, a two axis

electromagnetic current meter (EM), and a data logger. There are also two turbidity

sensors (OBS) present, however that data will be included in a separate report. The

instruments are mounted on a goal post type system within the bottom 2 meters of the

water column (Fig. 2). Wave amplitude, wave period, and tides are recorded using a

Trans Metrics P21 pressure transducer mounted approximately 0.5 meters above the sea

bed. The transducer measures pressure fluctuations through changes in resistance of a

strain gage. Calibration is achieved in the laboratory using compressed air, resulting in

curves with typical regression coefficients near unity. Wave direction and currents are

measured using the EM mounted approximately 1.5 meters above the sea bed. The

current meter operates on the Faraday principle of electromagnetic induction. As sea

water (the conductor) moves in the magnetic field (produced by the current meter) a

voltage is induced that is proportional to the water velocity. Calibration of this instrument

is performed annually by the manufacturer. The data logger controls the sampling strategy

and records the data. The data logger is equipped with an 8 channel, 12 bit, analog-to-

digital converter and can store 20 megabytes of data.

Sampling efforts focus on continuous measurements at a rate that will both utilize

the logger's storage capacity over a month and record significant events. Data is recorded











every 4 hours for 30 minutes at a sampling rate of 4 Hz. This produces records of 7166

points for each channel. There are 184 records per month per site.

Unlaxial



EM






1.5m
Pressure

Package
I5m
OBS2 5
OBS1 0.35m


I I II | II
I I Jetted 1.8m Jetted 1.6m Jetted 1.8m I
I I I II
II II II



Fig. 2 Elevation view of the mounting configuration

III. ANALYSIS TECHNIQUES

Pressure and two orthogonal horizontal components of water velocity define a

PUV system. This system utilizes the unique phase difference between pressure and the

horizontal velocity vector in a wave train to describe moments of the wave directional

spectrum (Long and Shay, 1991). PUV gages are most accurate for waves with narrow

directional distributions. They are less accurate for calculating wave direction for waves

with broad directional characteristics. Analysis of the pressure and current signals results

in significant wave height (Hmo), peak wave period, and peak wave direction for each

record. We utilize the spectrum-based definition for Hmo, which is equal to the square

root of four times the spectral variance (SPM). The peak of the directional spectral











every 4 hours for 30 minutes at a sampling rate of 4 Hz. This produces records of 7166

points for each channel. There are 184 records per month per site.

Unlaxial



EM






1.5m
Pressure

Package
I5m
OBS2 5
OBS1 0.35m


I I II | II
I I Jetted 1.8m Jetted 1.6m Jetted 1.8m I
I I I II
II II II



Fig. 2 Elevation view of the mounting configuration

III. ANALYSIS TECHNIQUES

Pressure and two orthogonal horizontal components of water velocity define a

PUV system. This system utilizes the unique phase difference between pressure and the

horizontal velocity vector in a wave train to describe moments of the wave directional

spectrum (Long and Shay, 1991). PUV gages are most accurate for waves with narrow

directional distributions. They are less accurate for calculating wave direction for waves

with broad directional characteristics. Analysis of the pressure and current signals results

in significant wave height (Hmo), peak wave period, and peak wave direction for each

record. We utilize the spectrum-based definition for Hmo, which is equal to the square

root of four times the spectral variance (SPM). The peak of the directional spectral










surface gives the frequency peak, and the direction of the highest energy waves (Dean and

Dalrymple 1984).

The methods ofLonguet-Higgins et al. (1963) are used to obtain the directional

spectrum. The directional spectrum is expressed as a Fourier sum,

1 2 1
[F(o, 0)]= A +2(Al cos +B Bsin 0)+-(A2 cos20+B2 sin 20)
2 3 6
In this equation, co is the wave frequency, and 0 is the compass heading from which the

waves approach. Power and cross spectra of the time series are computed and then

filtered to remove noise. To avoid amplifying high frequency noise in the data logging

system, wave frequencies corresponding to values ofkp equal to or less than 0.04 are

excluded. The influence of infra-gravity waves is removed by filtering wave periods higher

than 20 seconds. The computed power spectrum quantities are converted to values at the

free surface using the pressure and current response functions,

Scosh(k(h+ p))
cosh(kh)

Scosh(k(h +c))
cosh(kh)

Where k is the wave number, h is the still water depth, p is the depth of the pressure

sensor, c is the depth of the current meter, and g is gravity. Am and Bm are determined

for the first five harmonics of directional spectra in terms of the cross-spectra using the

following expressions.

OPP
A, (o)=


k2 kpr
p



4(w)-














k,k,;r


B O C= 2
k,2



Where 0 is the power and cross spectra of the pressure and current signals.

As stated earlier, the peak wave period and peak wave direction are determined from the

peak of the directional spectrum.


Site 1


VelcIty




Prosnure


1 990 19 91 1992


Velocity -




Pressure



1990 1 991 1992

Fig. 3. Data availability

IV. DATA

Monitoring of the Hollywood site began in January of 1990 and continued (with

occasional interruptions) through May of 1992. Figure 3 is a listing of each instruments'

operational status. Throughout this period the instruments were serviced bimonthly for

cleaning and monthly to offload data. The data is analyzed as stated earlier, and each 30










minute time series is plotted. Each time series is ranked for its quality. Quality of PUV

data is generally dependent on whether the instruments are operating properly or

malfunctioning. The pressure transducer was approximately 98% reliable, while the

current meter was reliable only 89% of the time. The results of the data collection and

analysis are plotted in Appendices A and B. Significant wave height, peak wave direction,

and peak wave period are plotted in Appendix A. Appendix B contains plots of the wave

roses for each deployment. Labeling of the figures in Appendix A and B is determined

using the following convention; Hab signifies deployment number a at site b. Each point

on the plots represents thirty minutes of data, where a line represents high quality data,

circles represent data with reduced accuracy, and stars represent bad data. Peak wave

direction in Appendix A is not plotted for instances where the sum of the standard

deviation of the current components is less than 0.2 cm/sec. This avoids plotting a wave

direction when no waves are present. The directional spectrum analysis is utilized to

produce the wave roses in Appendix B. The wave roses for deployments 5 and 6 both

sites, and site 2 of deployments 8,19, and 20 are not included due to failure (or partial

failure) of the current meter. The monthly averaged wave measurements are given in

Tables 1 and 2.

V. ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

This report was developed under the auspices of the Florida Sea Grant College

Program with support from the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration, Office

of Sea Grant, U. S. Department of Commerce, Grant No. R/C-S-30. We also wish to

thank Broward County Office of Natural Resources Protection for their support in kind

and the Coastal and Oceanographic laboratory staff at the University of Florida for their

assistance.





















YR MNTH SIGNIFICANT WAVE PEAK WAVE PERIOD PEAK WAVE DIRECTION #of
HEIGHT (meters (seconds) (theta) PTS
MEAN STD MAX MIN MEAN STD MAX MIN MEAN STD MAX MIN
90 JAN 0.38 0.20 0.61 0.26 3.6 0.5 4.2 3.2 106 33 131 68 3
90 FEB 0.74 0.42 1.80 0.11 5.0 1.6 10.2 3.2 95 38 167 6 168
90 MAR 0.76 0.41 2.31 0.16 5.4 1.7 11.1 3.2 89 33 161 11 157
90 APR 0.23 0.06 0.37 0.13 5.3 2.2 8.8 3.2 49 0 49 49 26
90 MAY 0.42 0.34 1.55 0.11 4.0 0.8 6.6 3.1 123 22.2 152 68 51
90 JUN 0.26 0.14 0.71 0.12 3.9 1.5 13.4 3.2 118 40 146 49 93
90 JUL 0.34 0.21 0.83 0.12 3.8 0.8 8.8 3.2 105 32 161 38 87
90 AUG 0.26 0.18 0.75 0.10 3.6 0.6 5.4 3.2 138 19 161 114 96
90 SEP 0.27 0.12 0.74 0.11 3.4 0.7 11.1 3.2 N/A N/A N/A N/A 4
90 OCT 1.2 0.56 3.01 0.55 3.3 0.0 3.4 3.2 N/A N/A N/A N/A 27
90 NOV 0.65 0.41 1.76 0.15 5.6 2.5 12.2 3.2 72 31 131 8 47
90 DEC 0.64 0.38 1.43 0.13 5.1 2.1 11.1 3.2 70 31 133 6 124
91 JAN 0.63 0.14 0.83 0.38 4.2 0.6 5.0 3.2 94 36 135 49 12
91 FEB N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A
91 MAR N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A
91 APR 0.44 0.20 0.97 0.18 3.9 0.5 5.0 3.2 115 27 148 62 28
91 MAY 0.48 0.27 1.11 0.11 4.1 0.7 5.9 3.2 96 27 133 41 122
91 JUN 0.27 0.19 1.06 0.11 4.6 2.6 13.4 3.2 58 24 156 36 173
91 JUL 0.24 0.13 0.72 0.10 3.7 0.9 8.2 3.2 134 36 176 81 175
91 AUG 0.24 0.14 0.85 0.09 4.3 1.7 10.2 3.2 80 47 161 8 143
91 SEP 0.29 0.17 0.87 0.10 5.4 2.6 12.2 3.2 59 33 176 28 126
91 OCT N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A
91 NOV 0.71 0.40 1.76 0.12 6.0 2.7 13.4 3.2 73 30 148 13 147
91 DEC 0.60 0.49 2.21 0.10 5.1 1.8 9.5 3.2 70 31 133 6 134
92 JAN 0.51 0.29 1.40 0.12 6.6 2.6 12.2 3.2 68 33 139 30 132
92 FEB 0.71 0.21 1.15 0.36 7.2 2.6 10.2 3.2 70 45 150 30 27
92 MAR 0.41 0.31 1.69 0.10 5.7 2.2 10.2 3.2 72 42 144 28 55
92 APR N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A
92 MAY 0.50 0.27 0.82 0.11 5.1 2.0 10.2 3.2 54 29 133 26 21


Table 1: Monthly wave measurements, site 1



















YR MNTH SIGNIFICANT WAVE PEAK WAVE PERIOD PEAK WAVE DIRECTION #of
HEIGHT (meters (seconds) (theta) PTS
MEAN STD MAX MIN MEAN STD MAX MIN MEAN STD MAX MIN
90 JAN N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A
90 FEB N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A
90 MAR 0.67 0.31 1.79 0.21 5.0 1.7 11.1 2.3 82 34 174 4 159
90 APR 0.27 0.05 0.38 0.18 3.1 1.5 7.3 2.3 114 78 178 2 24
90 MAY 0.44 0.30 1.30 0.10 3.9 1.1 6.6 2.3 120 15 148 84 87
90 JUN 0.32 0.16 0.79 0.09 3.9 2.0 12.2 2.3 96 32 139 36 179
90 JUL 0.36 0.20 0.78 0.11 3.7 1.0 8.2 2.4 105 29 170 38 90
90 AUG 0.25 0.14 0.69 0.10 3.1 0.8 5.4 2.4 N/A N/A N/A N/A 74
90 SEP 0.30 0.12 0.69 0.11 3.7 2.0 12.2 2.4 N/A N/A N/A N/A 106
90 OCT 0.63 0.40 1.86 0.10 5.2 2.4 15.0 2.5 N/A N/A N/A N/A 108
90 NOV 0.73 0.44 1.46 0.20 5.5 1.3 7.3 2.6 N/A N/A N/A N/A 28
90 DEC N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A
91 JAN N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A
91 FEB N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A
91 MAR 0.74 0.30 1.34 0.17 4.2 0.9 5.9 2.5 124 16 150 79 33
91 APR 0.64 0.37 1.64 0.12 4.4 1.3 8.2 2.4 98 30 159 15 174
91 MAY 0.58 0.35 1.80 0.13 4.1 1.1 7.3 2.3 98 24 140 32 161
91 JUN 0.34 0.22 1.08 0.11 3.8 2.1 15.0 2.5 80 36 167 30 162
91 JUL 0.28 0.13 0.70 0.12 3.3 1.1 8.8 2.3 97 26 141 45 174
91 AUG 0.27 0.12 0.73 0.13 3.6 1.6 9.5 2.3 87 38 141 32 171
91 SEP 0.30 0.14 0.73 0.13 4.8 2.7 11.1 2.4 57 36 161 11 126
91 OCT N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A
91 NOV 0.68 0.32 1.56 0.13 6.0 2.7 17.0 2.4 66 30 144 13 146
91 DEC 0.56 0.34 1.79 0.13 4.9 1.9 12.2 2.4 73 35 148 6 167
92 JAN 0.38 0.17 0.80 0.18 8.2 3.5 13.4 2.4 37 25 103 0 38
92 FEB 0.38 0.17 0.90 0.12 5.6 3.2 13.4 2.0 83 44 154 15 123
92 MAR 0.90 0.35 1.99 0.47 2.9 1.1 9.5 2.5 N/A N/A N/A N/A 81
92 APR 0.90 0.51 1.63 0.23 4.6 3.5 13.4 2.4 N/A N/A N/A N/A 20
92 MAY 0.40 0.21 0.85 0.13 4.6 2.5 12.2 2.3 N/A N/A N/A N/A 125



Table 2: Monthly wave measurements, site 2



VI. REFERENCES

Longuet-Higgins, M. S., D. E. Cartwright, and N. D. Smith, "Observations of the

Directional Spectrum of Sea Waves Using the Motions of Floating Buoy", in Ocean Wave

Spectra, Proceedings of a Conference Held at Easton, Prentice-Hall, Englewood Cliffs, N.

J., 1963, pp. 111-131.

Long, C. E., J. M. Oltman-Shay, "Directional Characteristics of Waves in Shallow

Water" Technical Report CREC-91-1, U. S. Army Corps of Engineers Washington D. C.,

1991, pp. 11-12.










minute time series is plotted. Each time series is ranked for its quality. Quality of PUV

data is generally dependent on whether the instruments are operating properly or

malfunctioning. The pressure transducer was approximately 98% reliable, while the

current meter was reliable only 89% of the time. The results of the data collection and

analysis are plotted in Appendices A and B. Significant wave height, peak wave direction,

and peak wave period are plotted in Appendix A. Appendix B contains plots of the wave

roses for each deployment. Labeling of the figures in Appendix A and B is determined

using the following convention; Hab signifies deployment number a at site b. Each point

on the plots represents thirty minutes of data, where a line represents high quality data,

circles represent data with reduced accuracy, and stars represent bad data. Peak wave

direction in Appendix A is not plotted for instances where the sum of the standard

deviation of the current components is less than 0.2 cm/sec. This avoids plotting a wave

direction when no waves are present. The directional spectrum analysis is utilized to

produce the wave roses in Appendix B. The wave roses for deployments 5 and 6 both

sites, and site 2 of deployments 8,19, and 20 are not included due to failure (or partial

failure) of the current meter. The monthly averaged wave measurements are given in

Tables 1 and 2.

V. ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

This report was developed under the auspices of the Florida Sea Grant College

Program with support from the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration, Office

of Sea Grant, U. S. Department of Commerce, Grant No. R/C-S-30. We also wish to

thank Broward County Office of Natural Resources Protection for their support in kind

and the Coastal and Oceanographic laboratory staff at the University of Florida for their

assistance.



















YR MNTH SIGNIFICANT WAVE PEAK WAVE PERIOD PEAK WAVE DIRECTION #of
HEIGHT (meters (seconds) (theta) PTS
MEAN STD MAX MIN MEAN STD MAX MIN MEAN STD MAX MIN
90 JAN N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A
90 FEB N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A
90 MAR 0.67 0.31 1.79 0.21 5.0 1.7 11.1 2.3 82 34 174 4 159
90 APR 0.27 0.05 0.38 0.18 3.1 1.5 7.3 2.3 114 78 178 2 24
90 MAY 0.44 0.30 1.30 0.10 3.9 1.1 6.6 2.3 120 15 148 84 87
90 JUN 0.32 0.16 0.79 0.09 3.9 2.0 12.2 2.3 96 32 139 36 179
90 JUL 0.36 0.20 0.78 0.11 3.7 1.0 8.2 2.4 105 29 170 38 90
90 AUG 0.25 0.14 0.69 0.10 3.1 0.8 5.4 2.4 N/A N/A N/A N/A 74
90 SEP 0.30 0.12 0.69 0.11 3.7 2.0 12.2 2.4 N/A N/A N/A N/A 106
90 OCT 0.63 0.40 1.86 0.10 5.2 2.4 15.0 2.5 N/A N/A N/A N/A 108
90 NOV 0.73 0.44 1.46 0.20 5.5 1.3 7.3 2.6 N/A N/A N/A N/A 28
90 DEC N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A
91 JAN N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A
91 FEB N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A
91 MAR 0.74 0.30 1.34 0.17 4.2 0.9 5.9 2.5 124 16 150 79 33
91 APR 0.64 0.37 1.64 0.12 4.4 1.3 8.2 2.4 98 30 159 15 174
91 MAY 0.58 0.35 1.80 0.13 4.1 1.1 7.3 2.3 98 24 140 32 161
91 JUN 0.34 0.22 1.08 0.11 3.8 2.1 15.0 2.5 80 36 167 30 162
91 JUL 0.28 0.13 0.70 0.12 3.3 1.1 8.8 2.3 97 26 141 45 174
91 AUG 0.27 0.12 0.73 0.13 3.6 1.6 9.5 2.3 87 38 141 32 171
91 SEP 0.30 0.14 0.73 0.13 4.8 2.7 11.1 2.4 57 36 161 11 126
91 OCT N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A
91 NOV 0.68 0.32 1.56 0.13 6.0 2.7 17.0 2.4 66 30 144 13 146
91 DEC 0.56 0.34 1.79 0.13 4.9 1.9 12.2 2.4 73 35 148 6 167
92 JAN 0.38 0.17 0.80 0.18 8.2 3.5 13.4 2.4 37 25 103 0 38
92 FEB 0.38 0.17 0.90 0.12 5.6 3.2 13.4 2.0 83 44 154 15 123
92 MAR 0.90 0.35 1.99 0.47 2.9 1.1 9.5 2.5 N/A N/A N/A N/A 81
92 APR 0.90 0.51 1.63 0.23 4.6 3.5 13.4 2.4 N/A N/A N/A N/A 20
92 MAY 0.40 0.21 0.85 0.13 4.6 2.5 12.2 2.3 N/A N/A N/A N/A 125



Table 2: Monthly wave measurements, site 2



VI. REFERENCES

Longuet-Higgins, M. S., D. E. Cartwright, and N. D. Smith, "Observations of the

Directional Spectrum of Sea Waves Using the Motions of Floating Buoy", in Ocean Wave

Spectra, Proceedings of a Conference Held at Easton, Prentice-Hall, Englewood Cliffs, N.

J., 1963, pp. 111-131.

Long, C. E., J. M. Oltman-Shay, "Directional Characteristics of Waves in Shallow

Water" Technical Report CREC-91-1, U. S. Army Corps of Engineers Washington D. C.,

1991, pp. 11-12.


























APPENDIX A
TIME SERIES OF WAVE PARAMETERS







WAVE PARAMETERS FOR DEPLOYMENT H011
From: January 31,1990 Julian Day 30.6
To: March 2,1990 Julian Day 60.16
o : data with reduced accuracy
: bad data


Significant Wave Height
2 I I I I I

.5

1

.5

0
30 35 40 45 50 55 60 6A
Julian Day


30 35 40 45 50 55 60 6:
Julian Day

Peak Wave Period
2 iI


8-


6

4
7.III


35 40


45 50
Julian Day







WAVE PARAMETERS FOR DEPLOYMENT H021
From: March 6,1990 Julian Day 64.6
To: April 5,1990 Julian Day 94.16
o : data with reduced accuracy
: bad data


SSignificant Wave Height




5



5


60 65 70 75 80 85 90 95
Julian Day



0 Peak Wave Direction (+)

+
0+

+ + +++ ++ + + +
+- + 4 + + + ++ +


+
"+ + + + + +
+ + + *-% +Roil+ + + + -
+
3 I I I I--
60 65 70 75 80 85 90 95
Julian Day

Peak Wave Period
2





64




60 65 70 75 80 85 90 95
Julian Day

12


0.








20(

15(

o 10c
*S 10<







WAVE PARAMETERS FOR DEPLOYMENT H022
From: March 5,1990 Julian Day 63.6
To: April 5,1990 Julian Day 94.0
o : data with reduced accuracy
: bad data


Significant Wave Height





S 1

0.5 -

0
60 65 70 75 80 85 90 95
Julian Day



,200 Peak Wave Direction (+)
200
+++ + +
150 +
+ + 4f + 4 -
+ + + ++
100- ;++ ++ +
i + ++ + + + +
100 % ++ + + ++: +++ + ++ + +
50+ ++ + 4- +-

I I + + + 1+


Julian Day


Peak Wave Period


65 70


75 80
Julian Day







WAVE PARAMETERS FOR DEPLOYMENT H031
From: May 17,1990 Julian Day 136.5
To: May 26,1990 Julian Day 145.0
o : data with reduced accuracy
: bad data


36 137 138 139 140 141 142 143 144 14
Julian Day



Peak Wave Direction (+)


+
+ + ++ ++
+ +

+

I


137 138 139 140 141
Julian Day


3 1 1 I I I
136 137 138 139 140 141
Julian Day


142 143 144 145


142 143 144 145


2


1.5


S1

0.5


50

0
1:


36







WAVE PARAMETERS FOR DEPLOYMENT H032
From: May 17,1990 Julian Day 136.5
To: June 15,1990 Julian Day 165.5
o : data with reduced accuracy
: bad data








1.5 ,Significant Wave Height
1.5 ii


1


0.5


0
135 140 145 150 155 160 165 170
Julian Day



Peak Wave Direction (+)
150 + +.
++ +++ +++ +
++ ++ + +
+++ + ++ + ++ ++++ ++
++.+ + 4-+

+ + +
504 +
50 + ++-


0 I I
135 140 145 150 155 160 165 170
Julian Day

15 Peak Wave Period
15


10


5-



135 140 145 150 155 160 165 170
Julian Day







WAVE PARAMETERS FOR DEPLOYMENT H041
From: June 15,1990 Julian Day 165.5
To: July 15,1990 Julian Day 195.6
o : data with reduced accuracy
: bad data








Significant Wave Height


0.8-

0.6

0.4


165 170 175 180 185 190
Julian Day


200 Peak Wave Direction (+)


150 +++


+
100 -

50 ++
n+
A1 I I I I


180 185
Julian Day


165 170 175 180 185 190 195
Julian Day


200


200


200







WAVE PARAMETERS FOR DEPLOYMENT H042
From: June 15,1990 Julian Day 165.5
To: July 16,1990 Julian Day 196.16
o : data with reduced accuracy
: bad data


180 1
Julian Day


200 Peak Wave Direction (+)
200

150

100 +
+ + .-


50- + + +
50 + +
(I I I I


180 185
Julian Day


190


Peak Wave Period
5 ,


0-


5-
----- i ---- i --------- i ---- i ---- i ----


165 170 175


180 185
Julian Day


200


200







WAVE PARAMETERS FOR DEPLOYMENT H051
From: August 13,1990 Julian Day 224.75
To: September 28,1990 Julian Day 270.5
o : data with reduced accuracy
: bad data








1 Significant Wave Height
1

0.8

0.6

0.4

0.2

0I
220 230 240 250 260 270 280
Julian Day



200 Peak Wave Direction (+)
200

150 +
+

. 100-

50

0 I
220 230 240 250 260 270 280
Julian Day

12Peak Wave Period
12


1


0

8

6-

4-
3< R~Rtfv""


220 230 240 250 260 270 280
Julian Day







WAVE PARAMETERS FOR DEPLOYMENT H052
From: August 13,1990 Julian Day 224.75
To: September 27,1990 Julian Day 269.5
o : data with reduced accuracy
: bad data


0.8 Significant Wave Height
0.8


0.6


0.4

0.2


220 225 230 235 240 245 250 255 260 265 270
Julian Day



Peak Wave Direction (+)


-0.05 1 'I I
220 225 230 235 240 245 250 255 260 265 270
Julian Day

c15 Peak Wave Period
15


10


5


0
220 225 230 235 240 245 250 255 260 265 270
Julian Day


E


0


-


-------- ---- ------------------- --- ------


\ f







WAVE PARAMETERS FOR DEPLOYMENT H061
From: October 4,1990 Julian Day 276.5
To: October 13,1990 Julian Day 283.5
o : data with reduced accuracy
: bad data








4 SSignificant Wave Height


3 -

2

1

0
276 277 278 279 280 281 282 283 284
Julian Day


Peak Wave Direction (+)









I I I I f I I


280
Julian Day


282


Peak Wave Period

-I


278 279


280
Julian Day


282


76


0.05


-0.05
2'


3.45

3.4

3.35

3.3

3.25


276


13







WAVE PARAMETERS FOR DEPLOYMENT H062
From: October 5,1990 Julian Day 277.5
To: November 8,1990 Julian Day 311.0
o : data with reduced accuracy
: bad data


Significant Wave Height


280 285 290


295
Julian Day


300


Peak Wave Direction (+)


280


295
Julian Day


Peak Wave Period


275 280 285 290 295 300 305 310
Julian Day


315


75


2

1.5

E 1

0.5


0
2'





0.05




0




-0.05
2'



20


75



r--


I I







WAVE PARAMETERS FOR DEPLOYMENT H071
From: November 19,1990 Julian Day 322.5
To: January 8,1991 Julian Day 3.25
o : data with reduced accuracy
: bad data








,2 Significant Wave Height


1.5

S 1

0.5


0
320 325 330 335 340 345 350 355 360 365 370
Julian Day



150 Peak Wave Direction (+)
150
+
_P.a -h e + +
+ + + + + + + +
100 + + + +
+ + +
+ ++ ++




0
+
320 325 330 335 340 345 350 355 360 365 370
Julian Day

Peak Wave Period
15


10


5



320 325 330 335 340 345 350 355 360 365 370
Julian Day







WAVE PARAMETERS FOR DEPLOYMENT H072
From: November 20,1990 Julian Day 323.5
To: December 18,1990 Julian Day 351.0
o : data with reduced accuracy
: bad data


Significant Wave Height
II

5-

1

5


325 330


335 340
Julian Day


Peak Wave Direction (+)


335 340
Julian Day

Peak Wave Period


335 340
Julian Day
23


320





0.05 r-


350


20


3



15


10


5


0
3


350


20


345


350


"U"U~"'~"~~~ ---------- ------ --------------







WAVE PARAMETERS FOR DEPLOYMENT H082
From: January 17,1991 Julian Day 16.0
To: February 13,1991 Julian Day 43.0
o : data with reduced accuracy
: bad data


20 25 30 35 40
Julian Day


Peak Wave Direction (+)


30
Julian Day


Peak Wave Period

)








15 20 25 30 35 40 4:
Julian Day


0-
15





0.05 r


-0.05
1


5


............................


I I I i I







WAVE PARAMETERS FOR DEPLOYMENT H092
From: March 26,1991 Julian Day 84.16
To: April 25,1991 Julian Day 114.5
o : data with reduced accuracy
: bad data








2 Significant Wave Height


1.5 -

S 1

0.5


80 85 90 95 100 105 110 115
Julian Day



200 Peak Wave Direction (+)
200 I :


S



8100 85 90 95 100 105 110 115
10 + Pea Wav Pe
+ ++ + ++.+
1++"+4. + ++ +
50- + +
+ +
0

80 85 90 95 100 105 110 115
Julian Day

Peak Wave Period
10

8-

6

4


80 85 90 95 100 105 110 115
Julian Day







WAVE PARAMETERS FOR DEPLOYMENT H101
From: April 26,1991 Julian Day 115.5
To: May 19,1991 Julian Day 138.7
o : data with reduced accuracy
: bad data








15 Significant Wave Height
1.5


1



0.5


0 I
115 120 125 130 135 140
Julian Day



150 Peak Wave Direction (+)
150
+ + + + ++
+ + +
+ + + ++ + + +
100 + + + + + ++
+ + + +
S+ +
+ + + ++
50 + +
++


0
0 I---------------------------
115 120 125 130 135 140
Julian Day

Peak Wave Period



5-
3 ---- i---------------------

4


3 ,I I
115 120 125 130 135 140
Julian Day

26







WAVE PARAMETERS FOR DEPLOYMENT H102
From: April 26,1991 Julian Day 115.5
To: May 26,1991 Julian Day 145.5
o : data with reduced accuracy
: bad data


Significant Wave Height


1.5


E 1


115 120 125 130 135 140 145 1
Julian Day


Peak Wave Direction (+)


+ *+ +-+ + +
S+ + ++ + +
+ ++4++ + -+ + + + + ++ + + + +
+ + + + +
+ ++ + +++ + ++
+ ++ + + + ++ + ++ ++
+ +
+ + ++ ++ +

+ +



15 120 125 130 135 140 145 15
Julian Day

Peak Wave Period










I I I


120 125


130 135
Julian Day

27


150



100


50


0
1


4


2
11


15







WAVE PARAMETERS FOR DEPLOYMENT H 11
From: May 30,1991 Julian Day 149.5
To: June 27,1991 Julian Day 177.3
o : data with reduced accuracy
: bad data








1.5 Significant Wave Height
1.5


1


0.5


0
145 150 155 160 165 170 175 180
Julian Day



200 Peak Wave Direction (+)
200 ---i--

150

. 100 +

50- + -+ ++

0 I
145 150 155 160 165 170 175 180
Julian Day

15 Peak Wave Period



10-


5


0
145 150 155 160 165 170 175 180
Julian Day
28







WAVE PARAMETERS FOR DEPLOYMENT H112
From: May 30,1991 Julian Day 149.5
To: June 25,1991 Julian Day 175.5
o : data with reduced accuracy
: bad data








1.5 Significant Wave Height


1-


0.5


0I I
145 150 155 160 165 170 175 180
Julian Day



200 Peak Wave Direction (+)
200

150- + ++
+

S 100- ++ +
+ +++ +
50- + .* ++
+ + + +

0 I I
145 150 155 160 165 170 175 180
Julian Day

_20 IPeak Wave Period


15




5-
10

0 I-I I I I
145 150 155 160 165 170 175 180
Julian Day
29







WAVE PARAMETERS FOR DEPLOYMENT H121
From: June 28,1991 Julian Day 178.5
To: July 24,1991 Julian Day 204.5
o : data with reduced accuracy
: bad data








0.8Significant Wave Height
0.8

0.6

0.4

0.2

0I
175 180 185 190 195 200 205
Julian Day



Peak Wave Direction (+)
200
+
150
+
S100

50-
50

0 ---------- I -
175 180 185 190 195 200 205
Julian Day

15Peak Wave Period
15


10


5



175 180 185 190 195 200 205
Julian Day







WAVE PARAMETERS FOR DEPLOYMENT H122
From: June 28,1991 Julian Day 178.5
To: July 24,1991 Julian Day 204.3
o : data with reduced accuracy
: bad data


Significant Wave Height






-


180 185


200


190
Julian Day


Peak Wave Direction (+)


190
Julian Day


200


Peak Wave Period




. ^^^V~lJJA^


180 185


0.8

0.6

E 0.4

0.2


0


175





150


100-


+
+ + + +
+ + + ++
++ +
+ +
++ +
++


205


175


190
Julian Day


200


205


2







WAVE PARAMETERS FOR DEPLOYMENT H131
From: July 26,1991 Julian Day 206.5
To: August 21,1991 Julian Day 232.3
o : data with reduced accuracy
: bad data








1 Significant Wave Height

0.8

0.6

0.4

0.2

0I I I
205 210 215 220 225 230 235
Julian Day



200 Peak Wave Direction (+)


150 +
+ + + + +
100 -

50 + + +-
+ +

0 I
205 210 215 220 225 230 235
Julian Day

Peak Wave Period
12

10

8-

6-

4

21
205 210 215 220 225 230 235
Julian Day







WAVE PARAMETERS FOR DEPLOYMENT H132
From: July 26,1991 Julian Day 206.5
To: August 26,1991 Julian Day 237.0
o : data with reduced accuracy
: bad data








0.Significant Wave Height
0.8


0.6

S 0.4

0.2


01
205 210 215 220 225 230 235 240
Julian Day



n150 Peak Wave Direction (+)
150
++ ++



+
j + + +
+
50 + +
++ ++

0 I I I
205 210 215 220 225 230 235 240
Julian Day

_10 Peak Wave Period
10 .

8-

6

4


2
205 210 215 220 225 230 235 240
Julian Day







WAVE PARAMETERS FOR DEPLOYMENT H141
From: August 28,1991 Julian Day 239.5
To: September 22,1991 Julian Day 264.0
o : data with reduced accuracy
: bad data


Significant Wave Height


250
Julian Day


Peak Wave Direction (+)


260


250
Julian Day


Peak Wave Period


250
Julian Day


0
2:





200

150

100

50

0
2:


+++





+ + + +
I I I I I


240


260


35


35







WAVE PARAMETERS FOR DEPLOYMENT H142
From: August 28,1991 Julian Day 239.5
To: September 22,1991 Julian Day 264.0
o : data with reduced accuracy
: bad data


Significant Wave Height


250
Julian Day


Peak Wave Direction (+)


250
Julian Day

Peak Wave Period


250
Julian Day


0.8


0.6


E 0.4


0.2


0
2:





200


240


35





r-


260


150 F


100


++
+ +
.+++
+ +

+
+ -
++-+ +++ + +
+-


240


5















i5


)





I.


260


260


240


255


,,


26


26







WAVE PARAMETERS FOR DEPLOYMENT H151
From: November 6,1991 Julian Day 309.7
To: December 2,1991 Julian Day 335.8
o : data with reduced accuracy
: bad data


Significant Wave Height
2


5


1


5

0 I


310 315


320 325
Julian Day


330


Peak Wave Direction (+)


13 IU Ii +
++
++ ++ ++
++++ +
100 ++ + +
+ ++ +4t ++
50 + ++ + ++
50- + + W t
+

4-* +
A


310


320 325
Julian Day

Peak Wave Period


320 325
Julian Day


330


330


335


340


305


0


305


I I I I I


. I-







WAVE PARAMETERS FOR DEPLOYMENT H152
From: November 6,1991 Julian Day 309.7
To: December 7,1991 Julian Day 340.3
o : data with reduced accuracy
: bad data


Significant Wave Height


315 320


325
Julian Day


Peak Wave Direction (+)


150
+ + + +
+ +

100- +++++ + + +

++ + + +
+ + V++ +
100 + + + +


+ +. + + +
50 +
0 +++ +-
++ + +++++_-+- +4.
4* +
I+


315


325
Julian Day


335


Peak Wave Period


0 1 I I I I I I
305 310 315 320 325 330 335 340
Julian Day


2


1.5


E 1


0.5


0
3(


I I


305


345


05


4J







WAVE PARAMETERS FOR DEPLOYMENT H161
From: December 11,1991 Julian Day 344.5
To: January 6,1992 Julian Day 5.3
o : data with reduced accuracy
: bad data









25 Significant Wave Height
2.5

2

1.5

1-

0.5

0 I
340 345 350 355 360 365 370 375
Julian Day



150 Peak Wave Direction (+)
150
++
+ + +
100 +
zoo
+ +
O + +H.,+4
++ + + + + +94- + +

+
0 1++------
340 345 350 355 360 365 370 375
Julian Day

15 Peak Wave Period



10



5-



340 i 345 350 355 360 365 370 375
Julian Day

38







WAVE PARAMETERS FOR DEPLOYMENT H162
From: December 11,1991 Julian Day 344.5
To: January 7,1992 Julian Day 6.3
o : data with reduced accuracy
: bad data


Significant Wave Height
2


.5


1


.5

A I


355 360
Julian Day


Peak Wave Direction (+)


355 360
Julian Day

Peak Wave Period


355 360
Julian Day


340 345 350


370


100



50-


+ +
+ + + ++
+ ++
++ +
++ +-

++ +4 + +++ +
++ + + + + _+4- + +
+ ++ + + + + +
+ + +
,+- ii


II -- -- --


340


370


5















'5


I


(


340


365


370


37


37







WAVE PARAMETERS FOR DEPLOYMENT H171
From: January 9,1992 Julian Day 8.5
To: February 6,1992 Julian Day 35.5
o : data with reduced accuracy
: bad data


.5 Significant Wave Height
.5 ---------- -----i- -- i ---- i ---



1-







5 10 15 20 25 30 35 4C
Julian Day



50 Peak Wave Direction (+)

5+ + +++
+ +
30- + +
+ +



0


5 10 15 20 25 30 35 4C
Julian Day

15 Peak Wave Period
15


10


5-



5 10 15 20 25 30 35 4(
Julian Day

40







WAVE PARAMETERS FOR DEPLOYMENT H182
From: February 7,1992 Julian Day 37.0
To: February 27,1992 Julian Day 57.5
o : data with reduced accuracy
: bad data


1 Significant Wave Height

0.8

0.6

0.4

0.2

0 I
35 40 45 50 55 6C
Julian Day



200 Peak Wave Direction (+)
200 +

150- + + ++ +
+ ++ + ++ ++
++ +++
100 +
+ +
50- +++ +. ++ +
+ +++++ ++
+

35 40 45 50 55 6C
Julian Day

15 Peak Wave Period
15


10


5


0 I
35 40 45 50 55 6(
Julian Day








WAVE PARAMETERS FOR DEPLOYMENT H191

From: March 12,1992 Julian Day 70.5

To: April 10,1992 Julian Day 99.0

o : data with reduced accuracy

: bad data










Significant Wave Height


+ +++ ++ +
-+++ -

t t ~ i i


++ + +
+ ,+


++


70 72 74 76 78 80

Julian Day


Peak Wave Direction


82 84 86 88 90


+ +
+

100 + +


+
50 + +
+ ++ ++ ++ + +

+

70 72 74 76 78 80 82 84 86 88 9(

Julian Day

2 Peak Wave Period
12 i- i

10- ++ +
+ + +
+ +

+ + +
++ + -
+ + + +
+ ++ + + +++
S+ ++ + + + + ++
++ +++ ++ + ++++ + + +++
SI I I I i i i


72 74 76 78 80

Julian Day


82 84 86 88 90


0.5


+
+ +++++ ++
+++


SI-







WAVE PARAMETERS FOR DEPLOYMENT H192
From: March 12,1992 Julian Day 70.5
To: April 7,1992 Julian Day 96.6
o : data with reduced accuracy
: bad data


Significant Wave Height


85
Julian Day


Peak Wave Direction (+)


85
Julian Day


Peak Wave Period










'0 75 80 85 90 95 1C
Julian Day
43


2

1.5

E 1

0.5


0
7




0.05




0




-0.05
7


0


0







WAVE PARAMETERS FOR DEPLOYMENT H201

From: May 13,1992 Julian Day 132.5

To: May 30,1992 Julian Day 149.0

o : data with reduced accuracy

: bad data









1 Significant Wave Height (+)


.8- + +
+ + + +
+
.6 +
+
+ +
.4
+
+
.2 +

SI I I I


134 136 138 140 142
Julian Day


144 146 148 150


150 Peak Wave Direction (+)
150
+


100

+

50 ++
+ +
+

0 i ----- i i ---- i


132 134 136 138 140 142
Julian Day


146 148 150


Peak Wave Period (+)


134 136 138 140 142

Julian Day


146 148 150


12

10

8

6


+ +


+ +
+ ~
+f+ +


132


2 1







WAVE PARAMETERS FOR DEPLOYMENT H202
From: April 29,1992 Julian Day 118.5
To: May 22,1992 Julian Day 141.0
o : data with reduced accuracy
: bad data


1 __Significant Wave Height

.8

.6

.4

.2

n


120 125


130
Julian Day


Peak Wave Direction (+)


130
Julian Day


Peak Wave Period











15 120 125 130 135 140 1
Julian Day

45


15


1





0.05




0




-0.05
1


15


--------------------------------





























APPENDIX B
WAVE ROSES






Sig. Wave Height Hmo, meters.


SzN]
0

2













0% 20% S


Wave Rose January 1990 to May 1992
All Deployments Site 1


Sig. Wave Height Hmo, meters.

N
0

2








0% 20%





0% 20%S


Wave Rose March 1990 to Febuary 1992
All Deployments Site 2






Sig. Wave Height Hmo, meters.

N
0

2



E









0% 20% S


Wave Rose 30\1\1990 to 2\3\1990
Deployment; H011






Sig. Wave Height Hmo, meters.


0

2














0% 20% S


Wave Rose 6\3\1990 to 5\4\1990
Deployment; H021


Sig. Wave Height Hmo, meters.

EZ N
0

2














0% 20% S


Wave Rose 5\3\1990 to 5\4\1990
Deployment; H022






Sig. Wave Height Hmo, meters.


0

2



( E









0% 20% S


Wave Rose 17/5/1990 to 26/5/1990
Deployment; H031


Sig. Wave Height Hmo, meters.

N
0

2








0% 20% S




0% 20% S


Wave Rose 17/5/1990 to 15/6/1990
Deployment; H032






Sig. Wave Height Hmo, meters.


C: N
0

2








0% 20% S




0% 20% S


Wave Rose 15/6/1990 to 15/7/1990
Deployment; H041


Sig. Wave Height Hmo, meters.


Wave Rose 15/6/1990 to 15/7/1990
Deployment; H042


0

2














0% 20% S






Sig. Wave Height Hmo, meters.

N
0

2



% 2









0% 20% S


Wave Rose 19/11/1990 to 4/1/1991
Deployment; H071






Sig. Wave Height Hmo, meters.


: N
0

2













0% 20% S


Wave Rose 26/3/1991 to 25/4/1991
Deployment; H092






Sig. Wave Height Hmo, meters.

N
0

2



E










0% 20% S


Wave Rose 26/4/1991 to 19/5/1991
Deployment; H101


Sig. Wave Height Hmo, meters.

N
0

2














0% 20% S


Wave Rose 26/4/1991 to 26/5/1991
Deployment; H102






Sig. Wave Height Hmo, meters.

EZ N
0

2



E










0% 20% S


Wave Rose 30/5/1991 to 27/6/1991
Deployment; H111


Sig. Wave Height Hmo, meters.

E2E N
0

2



S2 E









0% 20% S


Wave Rose 30/5/1991 to 25/6/1991
Deployment; H112






Sig. Wave Height Hmo, meters.

EO N
0

2



E









0% 20% S


Wave Rose 28/6/1991 to 24/7/1991
Deployment; H121


Sig. Wave Height Hmo, meters.

V b9 N
0

2








0% 20% S




0% 20% S


Wave Rose 28/6/1991 to 24/7/1991
Deployment; H122






Sig. Wave Height Hmo, meters.


: N
0
Iq] czu] ~:
2


E









0% 20% S


Wave Rose 26/7/1991 to 21/8/1991
Deployment; H131


Sig. Wave Height Hmo, meters.

N
0

2



S2 E









0% 20% S


Wave Rose 26/7/1991 to 26/8/1991
Deployment; H132






Sig. Wave Height Hmo, meters.


] N
0

2




(E









0% 20% S


Wave Rose 28/8/1991 to 22/9/1991
Deployment; H141


Sig. Wave Height Hmo, meters.


0

2



E










0% 20% S


Wave Rose 28/8/1991 to 22/9/1991
Deployment; H142






Sig. Wave Height Hmo, meters.


: N
0

2



E









0% 20% S


Wave Rose 6/11/1991 to 2/12/1992
Deployment; H151


Sig. Wave Height Hmo, meters.

N
0

2



E









0% 20% S


Wave Rose 6/11/1991 to 7/12/1992
Deployment; H152






Sig. Wave Height Hmo, meters.

3 N
0

2



E









0% 20% S


Wave Rose 11/12/1991 to 6/1/1992
Deployment; H161


Sig. Wave Height Hmo, meters.

3 N
0

2













0% 20% S


Wave Rose 11/12/1991 to 7/1/1992
Deployment; H162






Sig. Wave Height Hmo, meters.


C: N
0

2













0% 20% S


Wave Rose 9/1/1992 to 5/2/1992
Deployment; H171






Sig. Wave Height Hmo, meters.


0

2









0% 20% S




0% 20% S


Wave Rose 7/2/1992 to 27/2/1992
Deployment; H182






Sig. Wave Height Hmo, meters.


0

2



E










0% 20% S


Wave Rose 12/3/1992 to 10/4/1992
Deployment; H191






Sig. Wave Height Hmo, meters.


0

2



E









0% 20% S


Wave Rose 13/5/1992 to 30/5/1992
Deployment; H201
























APPENDIX C
DATA ON DISKETTE


The data is presented on diskette in ASCII format as follows. Each deployment is

in its own file, and files are named using the following convention; wavehab.dat where a

and b distinguish the deployment number and site as mentioned earlier. The files are in

matrix form. Columns 1 through 7 are time in Julian days (example: noon, January 1

equals Julian day 0.5 ), significant wave height (meters), peak wave period (seconds),

peak wave direction (the compass heading from which the waves approach in degrees),

quality of the pressure signal, and quality of the current signal respectively. Quality of the

pressure and current signals are tagged as follows: 1, 2, 3, or 0 corresponding to good

data, data with reduced accuracy, bad data, or no data respectively. Rows represent the

results of thirty minute observations.




University of Florida Home Page
© 2004 - 2010 University of Florida George A. Smathers Libraries.
All rights reserved.

Acceptable Use, Copyright, and Disclaimer Statement
Last updated October 10, 2010 - - mvs