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Wave data summary: Hollywood Beach, Florida, January 1990 to May 1992

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Title:
Wave data summary: Hollywood Beach, Florida, January 1990 to May 1992
Series Title:
UFL/COEL (University of Florida. Coastal and Oceanographic Engineering Laboratory) ; 92/016
Creator:
Dompe, P. E.
Hanes, D.M.
Place of Publication:
Gainesville, FL
Publisher:
Coastal and Oceanographic Engineering Department, University of Florida
Publication Date:

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Subjects / Keywords:
Ocean waves

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University of Florida
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University of Florida
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UFL/COEL-92/016

WAVE DATA SUMMARY: HOLLYWOOD BEACH, FLORIDA, JANUARY 1990 TO MAY 1992
by
P.E. Dompe and
D.M. Hanes

November 20, 1992




REPORT DOCUMENTATION PAGE
1. Aport No. 2. 3. BmstPimt -a acceasses o.
UFL/COEL-92/016
&. Title saod Subtitle 5. Report Date
11/20/92
6.
Wave Data Summary: Hollywood Beach, Florida, January 1990 to May 1992
7. Autbor(s) 8. Pertorming Orgaaizatio Report eNo.
P. E. Dompe & D. M. Hanes UfL/COEL-92/016
9. Pertfonng Organization Nam and Address 10. projejct/TaskL/Vork Unit no.
Coastal and Oceanographic Engineering Department
Umniversity of Florida
336 Weil Hall 11. Catract or Grant No.
Gainesville, FL 32611 R/C-S-3
13. Type of Report
1.2. Sponsoring Organization Nams and Address
Florida Sea Grant College Program/ NOAA 15. Supplementary7 Notes
16. Abstract

The following report presents wave data collected at two near shore locations off Hollywood Beach, Florida beginning in January 1990 and ending May 1992. The methods used to collect and analyze the data are also presented. Significant wave height, peak wave period, and peak wave direction are presented in time series plots, and summarized monthly in tables. Appendices include the time series plots, wave roses of each deployment period, an overall wave rose for each site and a diskette of the data in ASCII format.

17. Originator's Key Words 18. Availability Statment
Wave data
Wave height
Hollywood Florida
19. U. S. Security Classif. of the Report 20. U. S. Security Clestf. of This Page 21. No. of Pges 2. Price
UNCLASSIFIED P 652




WAVE DATA SUMMARY: HOLLYWOOD BEACH, FLORIDA, JANUARY 1990 to MAY 1992
P. E. Dompe and
D. M. Hanes
November 20, 1992
Sponsored by: Sea Grant College Program National Oceanographic and Atmospheric Administration
Coastal and Oceanographic Engineering Department University of Florida Gainesville, FL 32611




CONTENTS PAGE
TABLE OF CONTENTS ................................................ 1
PART I: INTRODUCTION ...................................... 2
PART 11: METHO0DOLOGY...................................... 3
PART III: ANALYSIS TECHNIQUES........................... 5
PART IV: DATA ................................................... 6
PART V: ACKNOWLEDGNENTS.............................. 7
PART VI: REFERENCES......................................... 9
APPENDIX A: TIME SERIES OF THE WAVE PARAMETERS .... 10
APPENDIX B: WAVE ROSES .......................................... 46
APPENDIX C: DATA ON DISKETTE ................................ 65




Wave Data Summary: Hollywood Beach, Florida, January 1990 to May 1992

1. INTRODUCTION
The Department of Coastal and Oceanographic Engineering at the University of Florida has collected wave data from 1990 to 1992 at two near shore locations off the coast of Hollywood Beach, Florida. The following report includes descriptions of the methods used to collect and analyze the data as well as summaries of the data collected.

Fig. 1 Site location
Hollywood Beach is located on the southeast coast of Florida (Figure 1). The wave fetch is restricted to the East and southeast by the Bahama Banks; the fetch to the




north is open to the Atlantic Ocean. There is a series of three hard-bottom regions oriented parallel to the shoreline, in approximately 17, 30, and 70 feet of water. The measurements were obtained at two sites: at site 1 the water depth is 35 feet, and at site 2 the water depth is approximately 17 feet. Site 2, located at 260 00.5' north longitude and 800 06' west latitude, is 1/4 mile due east of site 1. The seabed adjacent to the outer site is a sandy region populated by several hard bottom communities, while the inner site is a sand dominated region.
IL.METHODOLOGY
Instrumentation at each site consists of a pressure transducer, a two axis
electromagnetic current meter (EM), and a data logger. There are also two turbidity sensors (OBS) present, however that data will be included in a separate report. The instruments are mounted on a goal post type system within the bottom 2 meters of the water column (Fig. 2). Wave amplitude, wave period, and tides are recorded using a Trans Metrics P21 pressure transducer mounted approximately 0.5 meters above the sea bed. The transducer measures pressure fluctuations through changes in resistance of a strain gage. Calibration is achieved in the laboratory using compressed air, resulting in curves with typical regression coefficients near unity. Wave direction and currents are measured using the EM mounted approximately 1.5 meters above the sea bed. The current meter operates on the Faraday principle of electromagnetic induction. As sea water (the conductor) moves in the magnetic field (produced by the current meter) a voltage is induced that is proportional to the water velocity. Calibration of this instrument is performed annually by the manufacturer. The data logger controls the sampling strategy and records the data. The data logger is equipped with an 8 channel, 12 bit, analog-todigital converter and can store 20 megabytes of data.
Sampling efforts focus on continuous measurements at a rate that will both utilize the logger's storage capacity over a month and record significant events. Data is recorded




every 4 hours for 30 minutes at a sampling rate of 4 Hz. This produces records of 7166 points for each channel. There are 184 records per month per site.
Unlaxial
OBS1.l5m
I I, Jetted 1.8 I.. Jetted 1.6m Jetted 1.8m -.J
I I I II
I I II
Fig. 2 Elevation view of the mounting configuration III. ANALYSIS TECHNIQUES
Pressure and two orthogonal horizontal components of water velocity define a PUV system. This system utilizes the unique phase difference between pressure and the horizontal velocity vector in a wave train to describe moments of the wave directional spectrum (Long and Shay, 1991). PUV gages are most accurate for waves with narrow directional distributions. They are less accurate for calculating wave direction for waves with broad directional characteristics. Analysis of the pressure and current signals results in significant wave height (Hmo), peak wave period, and peak wave direction for each record. We utilize the spectrum-based definition for Hmo, which is equal to the square root of four times the spectral variance (SPM). The peak of the directional spectral




surface gives the frequency peak, and the direction of the highest energy waves (Dean and Dalrymple 1984).
The methods of Longuet-Higgins et al. (1963) are used to obtain the directional spectrum. The directional spectrum is expressed as a Fourier sum,
[F(o,0)]=2AO +2 (Al cosO+ Bl sin )+- (A2 cos20+B2sin 20)
2 3 6
In this equation, co is the wave frequency, and 0 is the compass heading from which the waves approach. Power and cross spectra of the time series are computed and then filtered to remove noise. To avoid amplifying high frequency noise in the data logging system, wave frequencies corresponding to values of kp equal to or less than 0.04 are excluded. The influence of infra-gravity waves is removed by filtering wave periods higher than 20 seconds. The computed power spectrum quantities are converted to values at the free surface using the pressure and current response functions, = cosh(k(h + p))
cosh(kh)
kc = cosh(k(h +c))
cosh(kh)
Where k is the wave number, h is the still water depth, p is the depth of the pressure sensor, c is the depth of the current meter, and g is gravity. Am and Bm are determined for the first five harmonics of directional spectra in terms of the cross-spectra using the following expressions.
A(o,)=
A2(0))- 0.upp
k~pr
4(w9)=




k,
= Cv
Where 0. is the power and cross spectra of the pressure and current signals. As stated earlier, the peak wave period and peak wave direction are determined from the peak of the directional spectrum.
8ite 1

velc cIty, Pro s~ura

1990 1991l 1992

Velo city --
PrssuLre
1990 1991 1992
Fig. 3. Data availability
IV. DATA
Monitoring of the Hollywood site began in January of 1990 and continued (with occasional interruptions) through May of 1992. Figure 3 is a listing of each instruments' operational status. Throughout this period the instruments were serviced bimonthly for cleaning and monthly to offload data. The data is analyzed as stated earlier, and each 30




minute time series is plotted. Each time series is ranked for its quality. Quality of PUV data is generally dependent on whether the instruments are operating properly or malfunctioning. The pressure transducer was approximately 98% reliable, while the current meter was reliable only 89% of the time. The results of the data collection and analysis are plotted in Appendices A and B. Significant wave height, peak wave direction, and peak wave period are plotted in Appendix A. Appendix B contains plots of the wave roses for each deployment. Labeling of the figures in Appendix A and B is determined using the following convention; Hab signifies deployment number a at site b. Each point on the plots represents thirty minutes of data, where a line represents high quality data, circles represent data with reduced accuracy, and stars represent bad data. Peak wave direction in Appendix A is not plotted for instances where the sum of the standard deviation of the current components is less than 0.2 cm/sec. This avoids plotting a wave direction when no waves are present. The directional spectrum analysis is utilized to produce the wave roses in Appendix B. The wave roses for deployments 5 and 6 both sites, and site 2 of deployments 8,19, and 20 are not included due to failure (or partial failure) of the current meter. The monthly averaged wave measurements are given in Tables 1 and 2.
V. ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
This report was developed under the auspices of the Florida Sea Grant College
Program with support from the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration, Office of Sea Grant, U. S. Department of Commerce, Grant No. RIC-S-30. We also wish to thank Broward County Office of Natural Resources Protection for their support in kind and the Coastal and Oceanographic laboratory staff at the University of Florida for their assistance.




YR MNTH SIGNIFICANT WAVE PEAK WAVE PERIOD PEAK WAVE DIRECTION # of
__________ EIGHT (meter (seconds) -t a PTS
MEAN STD MAX NM MEAN STD) MAX MIN MEAN STD1I MAX N
90 JAN 0.38 0.20 0.61 0.26 3.6 0.5 4.2 3.2 106 33 131 68 3
90 FEB 0.74 0.42 1.80 0.11 5.0 1.6 10.2 3.2 95 38 167 6 168
90 MAR 0.76_ 0.41 2.31 0.16 5.4 1.7 11.1 3.2 89 33 161 11 157
90 APR 0.23 0.06 0.37 0.13 5.3 2.2 8.8 3.2 49 0 49 49 26
90 MAY 0.42 0.34 1.55 0.11 4.0 0.8 6.6 3.1 123 22.2 152 68 51
90 JUN 0.26 0.14 0.71 0.12 3.9 1.5 13.4 3.2 118 40 146 49 93
90 JUL11 0.34 0.21 0.83 0.12 3.8 0.8 8.8 3.2 105 32 161 38 87
90 AUG 0.26 0.18 0.75 0.10 3.6 0.6 5.4 3.2 138 19 161 114 96
90 SEP 0.27 0.12 0.74 0.11 3.4 0.7 11.1 3.2 N/A N/A N/A N/A 4
90 OCT 1.2 0.56 3.01 0.55 3.3 0.0 3.4 3.2 N/A N/A N/A N/A 27
90 NOV 0.65 0.41 1.76 0.15 5.6 2.5 12.2 3.2 72 31 131 8 47
90 DEC 0.64 0.38 1.43 0.13 5.1 2.1 11.1 3.2 70 31 133 6 124
91 JAN 0.63 0.14 0.83 0.38 4.2 0.6 5.0 3.2 94 36 135 49 12
91 FEB N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A 91 MAR N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A
91 APR 0.44 0.20 0.97 0.18 3.9 0.5 5.0 3.2 115 27 148 62 28
91 MAY 0.48 0.27 1.11 0.11 4.1 0.7 5.9 3.2 96 27 133 41 122
91 JUN 0.27 0.19 1.06 0.11 4.6 2.6 13.4 3.2 58 24 156 36 173
91 JUL 0.24 0.13 0.72 0.10 3.7 0.9 8.2 3.2 134 36 176 81 175
91 AUG 0.24 0.14 0.85 0.09 4.3 1.7 10.2 3.2 80 47 161 8 143
91 SEP 0.29 0.17 0.87 0.10 5.4 2.6 12.2 3.2 59 33 176 28 126
91 OCT N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A 91 NOV 0.71 0.40 1.76 0.12 6.0 2.7 13.4 3.2 73 30 148 13 147
91 DEC 0.60 0.49 2.21 0.10 5.1 1.8 9.5 3.2 70 31 133 6 134
92 JAN 0.51 0.29 1.40 0.12 6.6 2.6 12.2 3.2 68 33 139 30 132
92 FEB 0.71 0.21 1.15 0.36 7.2 2.6 10.2 3.2 70 45 150 30 27
92 MAR 0.41 0.31 1.69 0.10 5.7 2.2 10.2 3.2 72 42 144 28 55
92 APR N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A 92 MAY 0.50 0.27 0.82 0.11 5.1 2.0 10.2 3.2 54 29 133 26 21

Table 1: Monthly wave measurements, site 1




YR MNTH SIGNIFICANT WAVE PEAK WAVE PERIOD PEAK WAVE DIRECTIN # of
HIGHT (meters) (sec nds) (t-hjeta TS
MAN STD IMAX IMIN MAN STD) MAX MIN MEAN STD) MAX MIN
90 JAN N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A
90 FEB N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A
90 MAR 0.67 0.31 1.79 0.21 5.0 1.7 11.1 2.3 82 34 174 4 159
90 APR 10.27 0.05 0.38 0.18 3.1 1.5 7.3 2.3 114 78 178 2 24
90 MAY 0.44 0.30 1.30 0.10 3.9 ,1.1 6.6 2.3 120 15 148 84 87
90 JUN 0.32 0.16 0.79 0.09 3.9 2.0 12.2 2.3 96 32 139 36 179
90 JUL 0.36 0.20 10.78 0.11 3.7 1.0 8.2 2.4 105 29 1170 38 190
90 AUG 0.25 0.14 0.69 0.10 3.1 0.8 5.4 2.4 N/A N/A N/A N/A 74
90 SEP 0.30 0.12 0.69 0.11 3.7 2.0 12.2 2.4 N/A N/A N/A N/A 106
90 OCT 0.63 0.40 1.86 0.10 5.2 2.4 15.0 2.5 N/A N/A N/A N/A 108
90 NOV 10.73 0.44 1.46 0.20 5.5 1.3 7.3 2.6 N/A N/A N/A N/A 28
90 DEC N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A
91 JAN N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A
91 FEB N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A
91 MAR 0.74 0.30 1.34 0.17 4.2 0.9 5.9 2.5 124 16 150 79 33
91 APR 0.64 0.37 1.64 0.12 4.4 1.3 8.2 2.4 98 30 159 15 174
91 MAY 0.58 0.35 1.80 0.13 4.1 11.1 7.3 2.3 98 24 140 32 161
91 JUN 10.34 0.22 1.08 0.11 3.8 2.1 15.0 2.5 80 36 167 30 162
91 JUL 0.28 0.13 0.70 0.12 3.3 1.1 8.8 2.3 97 26 141 45 174
91 AUG 0.27 0.12 0.73 0.13 3.6 1.6 9.5 2.3 87 38 141 32 1171
91 SEP 0.30 0.14 0.73 0.13 4.8 2.7 11.1 2.4 57 36 161 11 126
91 OCT N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A
91 NOV 0.68 0.32 1.56 0.13 6.0 2.7 17.0 2.4 66 30 144 13 146
91 DEC 0.56 0.34 1.79 0.13 4.9 1.9 12.2 2.4 73 35 148 6 167
92 JAN 0.38 0.17 0.80 0.18 8.2 3.5 13.4 12.4 37 25 103 0 38
92 FEB 0.38 0.17 0.90 0.12 5.6 3.2 13.4 2.0 83 44 154 15 123
92 MAR 0.90 0.35 1.99 0.47 2.9 1.1 9.5 2.5 1N/A N/A N/A N/A 81
92 APR 0.90 0.51 1.63 0.23 4.6 3.5 13.4 2.4 1N/A N/A N/A N/A 20
92 MAY 0.40 0.21 0.85 0.13 4.6 2.5 12.2 2.3 1N/A N/A IN/A N/A 1125
Table 2: Monthly wave measurements, site 2
VI. REFERENCES
Longuet-Higgins, M. S., D. E. Cartwright, and N. D. Smith, "Observations of the
Directional Spectrum of Sea Waves Using the Motions of Floating Buoy", in Ocean Wave
Spectra, Proceedings of a Conference Held at Easton, Prentice-Hall, Englewood Cliffs, N.
J., 1963, pp. 1I1- 13 1.
Long, C. E., J. M. Oltman-Shay, "Directional Characteristics of Waves in Shallow
Water" Technical Report CREC-91 -1, U. S. Army Corps of Engineers Washington D. C.,
1991, pp. 11-12.




APPENDIX A
TIME SERIES OF WAVE PARAMETERS




WAVE PARAMETERS FOR DEPLOYMENT H01 1 From: January 3 1,1990 Julian Day 30.6 To: March 2,1990 Julian Day 60.16
o :data with reduced accuracy
* :bad data

2 Significant Wave Height
2.5 -I .5
1
30 35 40 45 50 55 60 6
Julian Day

30 35 40 45 50 55 60 6'
Julian Day Peak Wave Period
2I
6-

35 40

45 50
Julian Day




WAVE PARAMETERS FOR DEPLOYMENT H021 From: March 6,1990 Julian Day 64.6 To: April 5,1990 Julian Day 94.16
o data with reduced accuracy
* bad data

Significant Wave Height
5
I
5
) IIII
60 65 70 75 80 85 90 95
Julian Day
0 Peak Wave Direction (+)
+
0
+ + +++ +
+++ 0- + ++ ++ + + + +
++ + + + + +
oil+- + 41+ +
+
+
0 I I I I
60 65 70 75 80 85 90 95
Julian Day Peak Wave Period
2
60 65 70 75 80 85 90 95
Julian Day 12

0.
20( 15( 10(




WAVE PARAMETERS FOR DEPLOYMENT H022 From: March 5,1990 Julian Day 63.6 To: April 5,1990 Julian Day 94.0
o : data with reduced accuracy
* : bad data

Significant Wave Height
2 I I I
1.5
0.5
0 I
60 65 70 75 80 85 90 95
Julian Day
Peak Wave Direction (+) 200
+ + +
150 4
4- t 4,~1 -i 4 4+44
+ ++ + 4f + + +
+ + + + +" +5 + + 4 + + + 4.+ .4+ +
100+ + + + + ++ + ++++1i++-+++
50 + + 4- +
+ IV + -4
AI I + I+1 W+ 41-*

Julian Day

Peak Wave Period

65 70

75 80
Julian Day




36 137 138 139 140 141 142 143 144 14
Julian Day Peak Wave Direction

WAVE PARAMETERS FOR DEPLOYMENT H031 From: May 17,1990 Julian Day 136.5 To: May 26,1990 Julian Day 145.0
o data with reduced accuracy
* bad data

2 1.5
1
0.5

36

50
0
1

137 138 139 140 141
Julian Day

142 143 144 145

3 1 1 i 'I I136 137 138 139 140 141
Julian Day

142 143 144 145




WAVE PARAMETERS FOR DEPLOYMENT H032
From: May 17,1990 Julian Day 136.5
To: June 15,1990 Julian Day 165.5
o : data with reduced accuracy
* : bad data
1.5 Significant Wave Height
1.5 I
1
0.5
0
135 140 145 150 155 160 165 170
Julian Day
Peak Wave Direction (+) 150 + +.
++ + .++
+ + + + ++ + +++ ++
++ + + 4-+ +
100 + +
++ +
"+ + +
++
+ + ++
50- + ++*
50 +
0 I I II
135 140 145 150 155 160 165 170
Julian Day
15 Peak Wave Period
15
10
5
0,
0 I I I I
135 140 145 150 155 160 165 170
Julian Day




WAVE PARAMETERS FOR DEPLOYMENT 11041 From: June 15,1990 Julian Day 165.5 To: July 15,1990 Julian Day 195.6
o :data with reduced accuracy
* :bad data
Significant Wave Height

0.8-h
0.6
0.4-

165 170 175 180 185 190
Julian Day

200 Peak Wave Direction(+
150- + ++
100- ++
50 + +
n+

180 185
Julian Day

165 170 175 180 185 190 195
Julian Day

200

200

200




WAVE PARAMETERS FOR DEPLOYMENT H042 From: June 15,1990 Julian Day 165.5 To: July 16,1990 Julian Day 196.16
o :data with reduced accuracy
*:bad data

180 1
Julian Day

Peak Wave Direction(+ 200
150
+ ++
~~+ + + + + +.4$
100 + +4
50- ++ + +
(1 I I

180 185
Julian Day

190

Peak Wave Period
5
0
5

Y65 '1 170 175

180 185
Julian Day

200

200




WAVE PARAMETERS FOR DEPLOYMENT H051
From: August 13,1990 Julian Day 224.75 To: September 28,1990 Julian Day 270.5
o data with reduced accuracy
* bad data
Significant Wave Height
1
0.8
0.6
0.4
0.2
0 I I
220 230 240 250 260 270 280
Julian Day
Peak Wave Direction (+) 200
150 ++
+
100
50
01
220 230 240 250 260 270 280
Julian Day Peak Wave Period 12r

1
UD

0
8 6
I 4I1

220 230 240 250 260 270 280
Julian Day




Significant Wave Height
0.8
0.6
0.4
0.2
n

-0.05 1 1 1 I I I I --I I 1
220 225 230 235 240 245 250 255 260 265 270
Julian Day Peak Wave Period 15
10
5
0
220 225 230 235 240 245 250 255 260 265 270
Julian Day

WAVE PARAMETERS FOR DEPLOYMENT H052 From: August 13,1990 Julian Day 224.75 To: September 27,1990 Julian Day 269.5
o data with reduced accuracy
* bad data

E

220 225 230 235 240 245 250 255 260 265 270
Julian Day Peak Wave Direction

0




Peak Wave Direction

Peak Wave Period

WAVE PARAMETERS FOR DEPLOYMENT H061
From: October 4,1990 Julian Day 276.5 To: October 13,1990 Julian Day 283.5
o data with reduced accuracy bad data
Significant Wave Height
4
3
2
0
276 277 278 279 280 281 282 283 284
Julian Day

0.05

76

-0.05
2

280
Julian Day

282

3.45 3.4 3.35 3.3 3.25

q I? 276

278 279

280
Julian Day

282




315

Significant Wave Height

WAVE PARAMETERS FOR DEPLOYMENT H062 From: October 5,1990 Julian Day 277.5 To: November 8,1990 Julian Day 311.0
o data with reduced accuracy
* bad data

2 1.5
1
0.5

75

75
r--

0
2 0.05
0
-0.05
2
20

280 285 290

295
Julian Day

300

Peak Wave Direction (+)

280

295
Julian Day

Peak Wave Period

275 280 285 290 295 300 305 310
Julian Day




WAVE PARAMETERS FOR DEPLOYMENT H071 From: November 19,1990 Julian Day 322.5
To: January 8,1991 Julian Day 3.25
o data with reduced accuracy bad data
2 Significant Wave Height
1.5
ES 1
0.5
0 II I I II
320 325 330 335 340 345 350 355 360 365 370
Julian Day
150 I Peak Wave Direction +)
+
4++ + +
+ + + + + + +
100+ + + + + +
+ + +
++
+ +++ +++++ + +
50 +++ -04 +++ + +
++
0 II I I I I [ .
320 325 330 335 340 345 350 355 360 365 370
Julian Day
Peak Wave Period 15
10
5
I II I I I I I
320 325 330 335 340 345 350 355 360 365 370
Julian Day




350

Significant Wave Height
2
5
I
5-

WAVE PARAMETERS FOR DEPLOYMENT H072 From: November 20,1990 Julian Day 323.5 To: December 18,1990 Julian Day 351.0
o data with reduced accuracy
* bad data

335 340
Julian Day

350

320 0.05 r-

325 330

Peak Wave Direction (+)

20

20

3 15
10
5
0
3

335 340
Julian Day
Peak Wave Period

350

335 340
Julian Day
23

345




WAVE PARAMETERS FOR DEPLOYMENT H082 From: January 17,1991 Julian Day 16.0 To: February 13,1991 Julian Day 43.0
o :data with reduced accuracy
* :bad data

20 25 30 35 40
Julian Day

Peak Wave Direction (+)

30
Julian Day

Peak Wave Period
15 20 25 30 35 40 4:
Julian Day

01
15
0.05 F-

-0.05'

5

............................




WAVE PARAMETERS FOR DEPLOYMENT H092 From: March 26,1991 Julian Day 84.16
To: April 25,1991 Julian Day 114.5
o : data with reduced accuracy
* : bad data
2 Significant Wave Height
1.5
S 1
0.5
0
0 I I I II
80 85 90 95 100 105 110 115
Julian Day
200 Peak Wave Direction (+)
+
1 5 0 ++ + + *
+ + + +. + +
+ + + + ++ ++ 4-+ + +
++ + ++ + ++ ++ +
+ + +
100- ++ +
+ ++ + ++
+
50 + + +
0
+ +
0 I I .II
80 85 90 95 100 105 110 115
Julian Day
10 Peak Wave Period
10
8
6
4
2 I I I I
80 85 90 95 100 105 110 115
Julian Day




WAVE PARAMETERS FOR DEPLOYMENT H101 From: April 26,1991 Julian Day 115.5
To: May 19,1991 Julian Day 138.7
o data with reduced accuracy
* bad data
Significant Wave Height
1.5
1
S
0.5
0I
115 120 125 130 135 140
Julian Day
Peak Wave Direction (+) 150 +
10 + + + ++
++ + + +
+ ++ + ++ ++ +
100 + + ++ + + +++
+ + ++
+ +
5 + + + +
50 + +
+ +
0
115 120 125 130 135 140
Julian Day
Peak Wave Period
5
4
3 ,I I
115 120 125 130 135 140
Julian Day
26




WAVE PARAMETERS FOR DEPLOYMENT H102 From: April 26,1991 Julian Day 115.5 To: May 26,1991 Julian Day 145.5
o : data with reduced accuracy
* : bad data

Significant Wave Height

1.5 k

r- 1

115 120 125 130 135 140 145
Julian Day

A

1 115

Peak Wave Direction (+)
+ + + ++ + +
+ + + +
:% ++ + + ++ + ++ +
+ ++ ++ + ++ ++ + + +
+ + + ++ + ++++ +
+ + + +
+ + +
+
+ + +
SI I 1II

30 135
Julian Day

Peak Wave Period
SI IIII

120 125

130 135
Julian Day 27




WAVE PARAMETERS FOR DEPLOYMENT H I11
From: May 30,199 1 Julian Day 149.5
To: June 27,1991 Julian Day 177.3
o :data with reduced accuracy
* :bad data
Significant Wave Height
1.5
1
0.5
0 1I
145 1 50 155 160 165 170 175 180
Julian Day
Peak Wave Direction(+ 200 -----150 +
C)100- +
50- +.- +
01 1
145 150 155 160 165 170 175 180
Julian Day
15 Peak Wave Period
10
5
0 ,I
145 150 155 160 165 170 175 180
Julian Day
28




WAVE PARAMETERS FOR DEPLOYMENT H1112
From: May 30,1991 Julian Day 149.5
To: June 25,1991 Julian Day 175.5
o data with reduced accuracy
* bad data
1.5 Significant Wave Height
0.5
0 1I I
145 150 155 160 165 170 175 180
Julian Day
Peak Wave Direction (+) 200
150 + + +
~+++ 100 ++ +
+,++ + +
50 + ++4+ + + + + +
0 I I
145 150 155 160 165 170 175 180
Julian Day
20 Peak Wave Period
15
10
5
0 I I I
145 150 155 160 165 170 175 180
Julian Day
29




WAVE PARAMETERS FOR DEPLOYMENT H 121
From: June 28,199 1 Julian Day 178.5
To: July 24,1991 Julian Day 204.5
o :data with reduced accuracy
* :bad data
0.8 Significant Wave Height
0.6
0.4
0.2
0 1I
175 180 185 190 195 200 205
Julian Day
200 IPeak Wave Direction(+
150
+
,~10050
0 1I
175 180 185 190 195 200 205
Julian Day
15 Peak Wave Period
150
10
175 180 185 190 195 200 205
Julian Day




WAVE PARAMETERS FOR DEPLOYMENT H 122 From: June 28,199 1 Julian Day 178.5 To: July 24,199 1 Julian Day 204.3
o :data with reduced accuracy
* :bad data

Significant Wave Height

180 185

200

190
Julian Day

Peak Wave Direction (+)

190
Julian Day

200

Peak Wave Period

180 185

0.8 0.6
S0.4 0.2

A

175 150
100 K

+
+ + 4+
++ + + +
+
++ + ++
+ -Ii.
+ + + +

205

175

190
Julian Day

200

205




WAVE PARAMETERS FOR DEPLOYMENT H131
From: July 26,1991 Julian Day 206.5 To: August 21,1991 Julian Day 232.3
o :data with reduced accuracy
*:bad data
Significant Wave Height
0.8
0.6
0.4
0.2
0 ,II
205 210 215 220 225 230 235
Julian Day
200 PeakWave Direction,,
150- + ++
10050- + ++
01 + 1
205 210 215 220 225 230 235
Julian Day
Peak Wave Period 12
10
8
6
4
2 I 205 210 215 220 225 230 235
Julian Day




WAVE PARAMETERS FOR DEPLOYMENT H132
From: July 26,1991 Julian Day 206.5 To: August 26,1991 Julian Day 237.0
o data with reduced accuracy
* bad data
Significant Wave Height
0.8
0.6
S 0.4
0.2
0II
205 210 215 220 225 230 235 240
Julian Day
150 Peak Wave Direction (+)
+ +++
100 + +
+
' + +
50 + +
0 I .. II I I
205 210 215 220 225 230 235 240
Julian Day
Peak Wave Period 10 ...
8
C.)
6
4
2
205 210 215 220 225 230 235 240
Julian Day




WAVE PARAMETERS FOR DEPLOYMENT 11141 From: August 28,199 1 Julian Day 239.5 To: September 22,199 1 Julian Day 264.0
o :data with reduced accuracy
* :bad data

Significant Wave Height

250
Julian Day

Peak Wave Direction (+)

260

250
Julian Day

Peak Wave Period

250
Julian Day

0
2:
200 150
.~100
50
0
2:

+*++ + +
Pek av irc+o (+)
+ + + +

240

260

35

35




WAVE PARAMETERS FOR DEPLOYMENT H142 From: August 28,1991 Julian Day 239.5 To: September 22,1991 Julian Day 264.0
o : data with reduced accuracy
* : bad data

Significant Wave Height

250
Julian Day

Peak Wave Direction (+)

250
Julian Day
Peak Wave Period

250
Julian Day

0.8 0.6 0.4
0.2
0 2
200

240

35

260

150 F

100

++
+ +
+ +++
+ ++
++ + +
++ + +
++
+++ ++ + ++
+- #f++ +---- +
+-

240

5
5

) I.

260

260

240

255

26

26




WAVE PARAMETERS FOR DEPLOYMENT H151 From: November 6,1991 Julian Day 309.7 To: December 2,1991 Julian Day 335.8
o : data with reduced accuracy
* : bad data

Significant Wave Height
2
5
5 -

310 315

320 325
Julian Day

330

Peak Wave Direction (+)

1:)U + I
++
+ + ++ ++
+ +
100 ++++ + +
+ ++ + -4++
50 ++ ++ + +*
50+ + Wt
++
+
* +li

310

320 325
Julian Day
Peak Wave Period

320 325
Julian Day

330

330

335

340

305

A

305

I I I I I

. I-




WAVE PARAMETERS FOR DEPLOYMENT H152 From: November 6,1991 Julian Day 309.7 To: December 7,1991 Julian Day 340.3
o : data with reduced accuracy
* : bad data

Significant Wave Height
I It I I

315 320

325
Julian Day

Peak Wave Direction (+)

150 .,
+ ++
+.+4+4- '++
V ++
+ + + + + +
+ ++ ++ +
100 .++4++++
10+4-+ + +
+ +
+4 + 4* +++
+ % ++ + + + 50 ~ ~+ +
+ + +++ + ++++
+ +:4++'++ + + + +
*1 +
I III I I I

315

325
Julian Day

335

Peak Wave Period

0 I 1 1 1 1 1
305 310 315 320 325 330 335 340
Julian Day

S 1

305

345

4J




WAVE PARAMETERS FOR DEPLOYMENT H161
From: December 11,1991 Julian Day 344.5
To: January 6,1992 Julian Day 5.3
o data with reduced accuracy
* bad data
Significant Wave Height
2.5
2
1.5
0.5
0II
340 345 350 355 360 365 370 375
Julian Day
Peak Wave Direction (+) 150
"J"+++
+ + +
100 +
+
"0 + ++.+
++ + + + + +
50 + + + +
++ +
+
++
0 I rI I
340 345 350 355 360 365 370 375
Julian Day
15 Peak Wave Period
10
C.)
5
0 I I I I
340 345 350 355 360 365 370 375
Julian Day
38




WAVE PARAMETERS FOR DEPLOYMENT H162 From: December 11,1991 Julian Day- 344.5 To: January 7,1992 Julian Day 6.3
o : data with reduced accuracy
* : bad data

Significant Wave Height
2 .5
1
.5
n

355 360
Julian Day

Peak Wave Direction (+)

355 360
Julian Day
Peak Wave Period

355 360
Julian Day

340 345 350

370

100 50-

+ 44- +
-+ + ++
+ ++
+++
+
+ 4+ + + + +
+ 4+ +-+ +-4
+ + + + +4- 4+
+ + + + ++ +
+-+-+ +---

I I---------

340

370

5 75

I I
)
5
I I I I

(

340

365

370

37

37




WAVE PARAMETERS FOR DEPLOYMENT H1171 From: January 9,1992 Julian Day 8.5 To: February 6,1992 Julian Day 35.5
o : data with reduced accuracy
* : bad data

Significant Wave Height .5
1.5
0 I I I
5 10 15 20 25 30 35 4C
Julian Day
50 Peak Wave Direction (+)
+ ++ + +
5+ +
00 ++
+ +
+4 +
+
0
5 10 15 20 25 30 35 4C
Julian Day Peak Wave Period 15
10
5
5 10 15 20 25 30 35 4(
Julian Day 40




WAVE PARAMETERS FOR DEPLOYMENT H182 From: February 7,1992 Julian Day 37.0 To: February 27,1992 Julian Day 57.5
o : data with reduced accuracy
* : bad data

Significant Wave Height
0.8
0.6
0.4
0.2
0I
35 40 45 50 55 6C
Julian Day
Peak Wave Direction (+) 200 +
150 .+ + + ++
4+- + + ++
+ ++ + ++ 4 +4+ +
100 +
+ +
50 ++ + + + +
50 +-++ +++, ++ ++ + ++ + +
01 ++ --CI +
35 40 45 50 55 6(
Julian Day
Peak Wave Period 15
10
5
0I
35 40 45 50 55 6(
Julian Day




WAVE PARAMETERS FOR DEPLOYMENT H191 From: March 12,1992 Julian Day 70.5 To: April 10,1992 Julian Day 99.0
o : data with reduced accuracy
* : bad data
Significant Wave Height

+ +-,-- -+ +...
+ + ++ +
+ +
t i i +

++ 4+ + + + ++

++
4

70 72 74 76 78 80
Julian Day

Peak Wave Direction

82 84 86 88 90

IDU ++ + ,
+ +
+
100 + +
+
50 + +
+ ++ ++ ++ + +
+
70 72 74 76 78 80 82 84 86 88 9(
Julian Day
12 Peak Wave Period
10 ++ +
S+ + +
+ +
+ +
4+ +
+ + 4+ +
6- + +, *+ 4
++ ++ + +
6- + ++ + ++ + ++ + +
+++++ ++ + +- + + + + + + ++
+++++ ++ + ++++ + + +++
SI I I I I I i I

72 74 76 78 80
Julian Day

82 84 86 88 90

0.5


++ +.+w+++
+4-4

,n I




WAVE PARAMETERS FOR DEPLOYMENT H 192 From: March 12,1992 Julian Day 70.5 To: April 7,1992 Julian Day 96.6
o :data with reduced accuracy
* :bad data

Significant Wave Hleight

85
Julian Day

Peak Wave Direction (+)

85
Julian Day

Peak Wave Period
ro 1 75 80 85 90 95 10C
Julian Day 43

2
1.5
S 1 0.5

0 7 0.05
0
-0.05
7

0

0




WAVE PARAMETERS FOR DEPLOYMENT H201
From: May 13,1992 Julian Day 132.5 To: May 30,1992 Julian Day 149.0
o :data with reduced accuracy
*:bad data
1 I Significant Wave Height()
+ ++
.6- +
.4
.2-+++
A II

134 136 138 140 142
Julian Day

144 146 148 150

Peak Wave Direction(+ 150
100
50- + ++
n

132 134 136 138 140 142
Julian Day

146 148 150

Peak Wave Period (+)

134 136 138 140 142
Julian Day

146 148 150

12 10
8
6

+
+
+
+ +
+
+
+
+ ++ + ++ +
I I I I I

132

') I




WAVE PARAMETERS FOR DEPLOYMENT H202 From: April 29,1992 Julian Day 118.5 To: May 22,1992 Julian Day 141.0
o : data with reduced accuracy
* : bad data

1 Significant Wave Height
.8
.6
.4
.2
A

120 125

130
Julian Day

Peak Wave Direction (+)

130
Julian Day

Peak Wave Period
ti
15 120 125 130 135 140
Julian Day 45

15

y
0.05
0
-0.05
1

15




APPENDIX B WAVE ROSES




Sig. Wave Height Hmo, meters.

N
0 2 ( E
I I
0% 20% S
Wave Rose January 1990 to May 1992
All Deployments Site 1
Sig. Wave Height Hmo, meters.
N
0 2 E
0% 20%S

Wave Rose March 1990 to Febuary 1992
All Deployments Site 2




Sig. Wave Height Hmo, meters.
N
0 2 E
0% 20% S

Wave Rose 30\1\1990 to 2\3\1990
Deployment; H011




Sig. Wave Height Hmo, meters.
N
0 2 ( E
I I
0% 20% S
Wave Rose 6\3\1990 to 5\4\1990
Deployment; H021
Sig. Wave Height Hmo, meters.
N
0 2 0% 20% S

Wave Rose 5\3\1990 to 5\4\1990
Deployment; H022




Sig. Wave Height Hmo, meters.

0 2 ( E
0% 20% S
Wave Rose 17/5/1990 to 26/5/1990
Deployment; H031
Sig. Wave Height Hmo, meters.
N
0 2 E
0% 20% S
0% 20% S

Wave Rose 17/5/1990 to 15/6/1990
Deployment; H032




Sig. Wave Height Hmo, meters.

N
0 2 (E
0% 20% S

Wave Rose 15/6/1990 to 15/7/1990
Deployment; H041
Sig. Wave Height Hmo, meters.

Wave Rose 15/6/1990 to 15/7/1990
Deployment; H042

N
0 2 0% 20% S




Sig. Wave Height Hmo, meters.
N
0 2 ( E
0% 20% S
0% 20%S

Wave Rose 19/11/1990 to 4/1/1991
Deployment; H071




Sig. Wave Height Hmo, meters.

N
0 2 0% 20% S
0% 20% S

Wave Rose 26/3/1991 to 25/4/1991
Deployment; H092




Sig. Wave Height Hmo, meters.
N
0 2 E
0% 20% S
Wave Rose 26/4/1991 to 19/5/1991
Deployment; H101
Sig. Wave Height Hmo, meters.
N
0 2 i Ei
0% 20% S
Wave Rose 26/4/1991 to 26/5/1991
Deployment; H102




Sig. Wave Height Hmo, meters.
N
0 2 E
S I I
0% 20% S
Wave Rose 30/5/1991 to 27/6/1991
Deployment; H111
Sig. Wave Height Hmo, meters.
N
0 2 ( E
0% 20% S

Wave Rose 30/5/1991 to 25/6/1991
Deployment; H112




Sig. Wave Height Hmo, meters.
EO N
0 2 ( E
I I I S
0% 20% S

Wave Rose 28/6/1991 to 24/7/1991
Deployment; H121

Sig. Wave Height Hmo, meters.
N
0 2 0 E
0% 20% S

Wave Rose 28/6/1991 to 24/7/1991
Deployment; H122




Sig. Wave Height Hmo, meters.

N
0 2 E
I I
0% 20% S
Wave Rose 26/7/1991 to 21/8/1991
Deployment; H131
Sig. Wave Height Hmo, meters.
N
0 2 ( E
0% 20% S

Wave Rose 26/7/1991 to 26/8/1991
Deployment; H132




Sig. Wave Height Hmo, meters.

N
0 2 (E
I I
0% 20% S
Wave Rose 28/8/1991 to 22/9/1991
Deployment; H141
Sig. Wave Height Hmo, meters. 0 2 E
0% 20% S

Wave Rose 28/8/1991 to 22/9/1991
Deployment; H142




Sig. Wave Height Hmo, meters.

N
0 2 E
S I I
0% 20% S
Wave Rose 6/11/1991 to 2/12/1992
Deployment; H151
Sig. Wave Height Hmo, meters.
N
0 2 (2E
0% 20% S

Wave Rose 6/11/1991 to 7/12/1992
Deployment; H152




Sig. Wave Height Hmo, meters.
N
0 2 E
0% 20% S
Wave Rose 11/12/1991 to 6/1/1992
Deployment; H161
Sig. Wave Height Hmo, meters.
N
0 2 ( E
0% 20% S
Wave Rose 11/12/1991 to 7/1/1992
Deployment; H162




Sig. Wave Height Hmo, meters.

N
0 2 E0% 20% S 0% 20% S

Wave Rose 9/1/1992 to 5/2/1992
Deployment; H171




Sig. Wave Height Hmo, meters. 0 2 E
0% 20% S
0% 20% S

Wave Rose 7/2/1992 to 27/2/1992
Deployment; H182




Sig. Wave Height Hmo, meters.

0 2 E
0% 20% S

Wave Rose 12/3/1992 to 10/4/1992
Deployment; H191




Sig. Wave Height Hmo, meters. 0 2 E
0% 20% S

Wave Rose 13/5/1992 to 30/5/1992
Deployment; H201




APPENDIX C
DATA ON DISKETTE
The data is presented on diskette in ASCII format as follows. Each deployment is in its own file, and files are named using the following convention; wavehab.dat where a and b distinguish the deployment number and site as mentioned earlier. The files are in matrix form. Columns I through 7 are time in Julian days (example: noon, January I equals Julian day 0.5 ), significant wave height (meters), peak wave period (seconds), peak wave direction (the compass heading from which the waves approach in degrees), quality of the pressure signal, and quality of the current signal respectively. Quality of the pressure and current signals are tagged as follows: 1, 2, 3, or 0 corresponding to good data, data with reduced accuracy, bad data, or no data respectively. Rows represent the results of thirty minute observations.