• TABLE OF CONTENTS
HIDE
 Front Cover
 Half Title
 Title Page
 1966-1967 supplement
 Foreword
 Table of Contents
 Part I: Bermuda
 Part II: The Bahamas
 Part III: Puerto Rico
 Part IV: The Virgin Islands
 Index






Group Title: Sydney Clark travel book
Title: All the best in Bermuda
CITATION THUMBNAILS PAGE IMAGE ZOOMABLE
Full Citation
STANDARD VIEW MARC VIEW
Permanent Link: http://ufdc.ufl.edu/UF00078456/00001
 Material Information
Title: All the best in Bermuda the Bahamas, Puerto Rico, and the Virgin Islands
Series Title: A Sydney Clark travel book
Physical Description: 184 p. : illus., maps (on lining papers) ; 18 cm.
Language: English
Creator: Clark, Sydney, 1890-1975
Publisher: Dodd, Mead & Company, Inc.
Place of Publication: New York
Manufacturer: Vail-Ballou Press, Inc.
Publication Date: 1965
 Subjects
Subject: Description and travel -- West Indies   ( lcsh )
Genre: non-fiction   ( marcgt )
Spatial Coverage: Bermuda
Bahamas
Puerto Rico
United States Virgin Islands
 Notes
Statement of Responsibility: by Sydney Clark.
 Record Information
Bibliographic ID: UF00078456
Volume ID: VID00001
Source Institution: University of Florida
Holding Location: University of Florida
Rights Management: All rights reserved by the source institution and holding location.
Resource Identifier: oclc - 01306887
alephbibnum - 000780000
lccn - 65018538

Table of Contents
    Front Cover
        Front Cover 1
        Front Cover 2
    Half Title
        Half Title 1
        Half Title 2
    Title Page
        Title Page 1
        Title Page 2
    1966-1967 supplement
        Supplement 1
        Supplement 2
        Supplement 3
        Supplement 4
        Supplement 5
        Supplement 6
        Supplement 7
        Supplement 8
        Supplement 9
        Supplement 10
        Supplement 11
        Supplement 12
        Supplement 13
        Supplement 14
        Supplement 15
        Supplement 16
    Foreword
        Page v
        Page vi
    Table of Contents
        Page vii
        Page viii
        Page ix
        Page x
        Page xi
        Page xii
    Part I: Bermuda
        Page 1
        Page 2
        Page 3
        Page 4
        Page 5
        Page 6
        Page 7
        Page 8
        Page 9
        Page 10
        Page 11
        Page 12
        Page 13
        Page 14
        Page 15
        Page 16
        Page 17
        Page 18
        Page 19
        Page 20
        Page 21
        Page 22
        Page 23
        Page 24
        Page 25
        Page 26
        Page 27
        Page 28
        Page 29
        Page 30
        Page 31
        Page 32
        Page 33
        Page 34
        Page 35
        Page 36
        Page 37
        Page 38
        Page 39
        Page 40
        Page 41
        Page 42
        Page 43
        Page 44
        Page 45
        Page 46
        Page 47
        Page 48
        Page 49
        Page 50
        Page 51
        Page 52
        Page 53
    Part II: The Bahamas
        Page 54
        Page 55
        Page 56
        Page 57
        Page 58
        Page 59
        Page 60
        Page 61
        Page 62
        Page 63
        Page 64
        Page 65
        Page 66
        Page 67
        Page 68
        Page 69
        Page 70
        Page 71
        Page 72
        Page 73
        Page 74
        Page 75
        Page 76
        Page 77
        Page 78
        Page 79
        Page 80
        Page 81
        Page 82
        Page 83
        Page 84
        Page 84a
        Page 84b
        Page 84c
        Page 84d
        Page 84e
        Page 84f
        Page 84g
        Page 84h
        Page 84i
        Page 84j
        Page 84k
        Page 84l
        Page 84m
        Page 84n
        Page 84o
        Page 84p
        Page 85
        Page 86
        Page 87
        Page 88
        Page 89
        Page 90
        Page 91
        Page 92
        Page 93
        Page 94
        Page 95
        Page 96
        Page 97
        Page 98
        Page 99
        Page 100
        Page 101
        Page 102
        Page 103
        Page 104
        Page 105
        Page 106
        Page 107
    Part III: Puerto Rico
        Page 108
        Page 109
        Page 110
        Page 111
        Page 112
        Page 113
        Page 114
        Page 115
        Page 116
        Page 117
        Page 118
        Page 119
        Page 120
        Page 121
        Page 122
        Page 123
        Page 124
        Page 125
        Page 126
        Page 127
        Page 128
        Page 129
        Page 130
        Page 131
        Page 132
        Page 133
        Page 134
        Page 135
        Page 136
        Page 137
        Page 138
        Page 139
        Page 140
        Page 141
        Page 142
        Page 143
        Page 144
    Part IV: The Virgin Islands
        Page 145
        Page 146
        Page 147
        Page 148
        Page 149
        Page 150
        Page 151
        Page 152
        Page 153
        Page 154
        Page 155
        Page 156
        Page 157
        Page 158
        Page 159
        Page 160
        Page 161
        Page 162
        Page 163
        Page 164
        Page 165
        Page 166
        Page 167
        Page 168
        Page 169
        Page 170
        Page 171
        Page 172
        Page 173
        Page 174
        Page 175
        Page 176
        Page 177
        Page 178
    Index
        Page 179
        Page 180
        Page 181
        Page 182
        Page 183
        Page 184
Full Text




UNIVERSITY

OF FLORIDA

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ALL THE BEST IN BERMUDA,
THE BAHAMAS, PUERTO RICO,
AND THE VIRGIN ISLANDS









BOOKS BY SYDNEY CLARK


ALL THE BEST IN BELGIUM AND LUXEMBOURG
ALL THE BEST IN BERMUDA, THE BAHAMAS,
PUERTO RICO AND THE VIRGIN ISLANDS

ALL THE BEST IN THE CARIBBEAN INCLUDING
PUERTO RICO, AND THE VIRGIN ISLANDS
ALL THE BEST IN CENTRAL AMERICA
ALL THE BEST IN ENGLAND

ALL THE BEST IN EUROPE

ALL THE BEST IN FRANCE

ALL THE BEST IN GERMANY AND AUSTRIA

ALL THE BEST IN HAWAII
ALL THE BEST IN HOLLAND

ALL THE BEST IN ITALY

ALL THE BEST IN JAPAN AND THE ORIENT

ALL THE BEST IN THE MEDITERRANEAN

ALL THE BEST IN MEXICO

ALL THE BEST IN SCANDINAVIA
ALL THE BEST IN SOUTH AMERICA-EAST COAST

ALL THE BEST IN SOUTH AMERICA-WEST COAST
ALL THE BEST IN THE SOUTH PACIFIC

ALL THE BEST IN SPAIN AND PORTUGAL

ALL THE BEST IN SWITZERLAND






SYDNEY CLARK

ALL THE BEST IN


BERMUDA,


THE BAHAMAS,


PUERTO RICO,

AND THE VIRGIN ISLANDS

WITH ILLUSTRATIONS AND MAPS


DODD, MEAD & COMPANY, INC


NEW YORK
















































COPYRIGHT 48, 1954, 1957, 1959, 1965 BY SYDNEY CLARK

ALL RIGHTS RESERVED
NO PART OF THIS BOOK MAY BE REPRODUCED IN ANY FORM
WITHOUT PERMISSION IN WRITING FROM THE PUBLISHER




LIBRARY OF CONGRESS CATALOG CARD NUMBER: 65-18538


PRINTED IN THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA
BY VAIL-BALLOU PRESS, INC., BINGHAMTON, N.Y.












1966-1967 SUPPLEMENT







1966-1967 SUPPLEMENT


THERE is customs news affecting all islands covered in this book
except Puerto Rico, which is exempt from customs as "part of the
United States." Bermuda and the Bahamas fall under the regula-
tions for all overseas destinations, which are, briefly, that you may
bring home, duty-free, $ioo retail value of items made abroad or
on location and purchased in Bermuda or the Bahamas. You may
bring home one quart of liquor per adult duty free, but any
amount you choose if you pay the appropriate duty. In Bermuda
and the Bahamas, liquor dealers are working on prepacking gal-
lons of liquor, which you may buy, at a reduced price, and on
which you pay duty in advance. The package will be sent to the
airport and put on the plane when you check in at the airport.
This would mean that the liquor would not be included as over-
weight, a serious bugaboo to those who buy liquor and carry it
with them. Thus, even though you pay duty, there would be a
considerable saving over mainland prices.
In the U.S. Virgin Islands, the situation is peculiar. In 1917,
when the islands were bought from Denmark, it was agreed that
the very low duty (6 per cent) paid on most items imported to the
Virgin Islands from abroad would not be changed. To curb the
obvious "tax-free" channel of importing goods from overseas to
the Virgin Islands and thence to the mainland, the Virgin Islands
maintains customs regulations. The regulations, however, are ex-
ceptions (which also apply to Guam and Samoa, other U.S. ter-
ritories), providing that you, a visitor to the U.S. Virgin Islands,
may bring home $2oo retail value of items made abroad but sold
in the Virgin Islands. You may also bring home one gallon of
liquor per adult. You may bring home items made in the U.S.
Virgin Islands in any amount, since they are not subject to any
duty and do not need to be included in your exemption.
A word is in order here about the airlines and their varying




1966-1967 SUPPLEMENT


services and prices. From New York, current low fares are $85
round trip off season to Bermuda, $115 17-day round trip ex-
cursion fare to the Bahamas and $90 round trip midweek to
Puerto Rico, with $18 round trip between Puerto Rico and St.
Thomas. This information is offered here only to emphasize how
relatively inexpensive it is to fly to the four places covered in this
book. The New York-Puerto Rico flight covers 1603 miles one
way and the $45 fare figures out as the lowest air fare, at 2.8 cents
per mile, by a U.S. carrier anywhere in the United States. Air
fares bounce up and down and although the above are in effect
now, they may serve only as "remember when . ." by the time
you make your trip. Check and recheck on fares; airline personnel
sometimes have trouble keeping up with them too!
Bermuda travel is still easy via Pan American, Eastern and
BOAC, as mentioned on page 8. BOAC now flies VC-io's. The
Bahamas are affected by Eastern Airlines' purchase of Mackay
Airlines, meaning that the former airline now flies from Miami to
the Bahamas. BOAC and Air Canada have nonstop service from
New York and Toronto respectively to Freeport, Grand Bahama,
as foreseen on page 94. Puerto Rico has increased service, par-
ticularly from Chicago via Eastern and Pan American and Cali-
fornia via Delta. In addition, there is a plethora of flights between
Puerto Rico and New York via Pan American, Eastern and Trans
Caribbean. The Virgin Islands have Pan Am jets flying from New
York to St. Thomas after a stop in farther-south St. Croix. This
feat was made possible by an extension of the St. Thomian run-
way into the sea! Caribair, serving the islands from Puerto Rico
several times daily, still provides the link for the most economical
way to reach the Virgin Islands from the States by allowing you
to take advantage of the "joke low" fares between New York
and Puerto Rico. Caribair, with DC-3's and Convairs, and Antilles
Air Boats, with seaplanes, provide St. Thomas-St. Croix service
with AAB flying to the British Virgin Islands and to St. John,
where the shortage of airports is no hindrance.
Cruises are legion. St. Thomas alone has over zoo cruise visits





1966-1967 SUPPLEMENT
in a season; the Bahamas are served regularly by the Home Lines;
although the long familiar Furness Line has announced plans to
cease their service to Bermuda at the end of 1966, Bermuda will
continue to have regular service from New York; and Puerto
Rico has regular service on Delta Steamship Lines from New
Orleans in addition to service by cruise lines.
If you want to go by ship, persevere! There are ways, either
by freighter or cruise line, but they are not always well publi-
cized. In all cases, the government offices listed throughout the
text can give you the needed information. The New York execu-
tive offices of the Bermuda Trade Development Board, inciden-
tally, have moved from 620 Fifth Avenue, as given on page 9,
to 6o1 Fifth Avenue, still in Rockefeller Center. The street-
level information "cottage" remains in its familiar spot on the
promenade.

BERMUDA. The moderate changes in Bermuda since the last
writing are typical of a resort that has been a resort for at least
the last half-century. The nouveau-riche tourist atmosphere is
virtually nonexistent in Bermuda and, although they come more
slowly, changes are more permanent than those in some of her
sister tourist resort areas.
An awaited item of Bermuda news is the prospect of a new
map, to be printed with the grid system advocated on page 14!
The map has cross-referencing and explicit numbering so that all
worries are over and you need no longer halt your car or stand on
a street corer striving to find number 50's place on the map!
On the less cheery side, Bermuda Air Tours, discussed on page
34, has sadly gone out of business. You may still peer out of the
window of your arriving or departing flight, but tours of the
island by air are not offered commercially as of this writing.
Castle Harbour Hotel leads the list of hotels with innovations
since the listing on pages i6 through 29, by gilding the lily with
another swimming pool. The hotel's new pool is nothing short of
fabulous, with a terrace "colony"-dancing terrace, eating ter-





1966-1967 SUPPLEMENT
race, drinking terrace-and an altogether strikingly lavish com-
plex. Inverurie Hotel has a 66-bed wing almost completed and
the Princess Hotel has added a 99-room wing, bringing its grand
total to 700-plus rooms!
Deepdene Manor, one of the smaller hotels, has built a pool in
its Florentine Garden and has added a wing of 12 double rooms
so that you need not always climb the two flights of stairs men-
tioned on page 2i.
Among the cottage colonies, Cambridge Beaches, page 24, has
a lovely new pool, which seems to be bringing "coals to New-
castle" since the hotel already has five beaches from which to
choose. Most of the cottages have been completely redecorated
and those that have not had a facelifting as of this writing are,
I understand, soon to undergo treatment. Lantana Colony Club
has added four sumptuous master suites on the waterfront. The
suites have private bar and lounge in addition to the expected
amenities of bed and bath. Pompano Club (page 27) has eight
new units, bringing its grand total to 78 units for the sports-
man.
Along the restaurant line (pages 46 through 49), Hog Penny
Club has an upstairs dining room called the Sovereign, like the
coin, which transforms into a discothiquc after 1: oo P.M. The
food is fabulous, and the eleven o'clock "cinderella" performance
is great exercise to rationalize your next days' lounge on the
beach!
More conventional exercise is provided on Bermuda's eighth
golf course, the Port Royal Course, recently completed in South-
ampton Parish and easily accessible to the Carlton Beach Hotel
and the Pompano. Designed by Robert Trent Jones and financed
by the Bermuda government, the course covers 170 acres.

The BAHAMAS. Bahamian currency needs a special paragraph
all its own to update the material on pages 62-63. On May 25,
1966, the Bahamas went on the dollar decimal system, based on
a 7-shilling sterling or 98-cents U.S. value, which is divided into





1966-1967 SUPPLEMENT
100 cents. The eight notes and nine coins have a portrait of the
Queen on the front and a Bahamian scene on the reverse. Notes
go from 50 cents to $Ioo and coins from one cent to $5, including
a square i5-cent piece! Numismatists will be interested in the
limited number of 9-coin sets selling for $16.
The tourism office mentioned on page 63 on Bay Street has
been tucked into the same building as the Ministry of Tourism
on Rawson Square, but is still easily accessible and should be
visited if you have questions.
The Bahamas have exploded! For ease of the reader I shall
present first, and briefly, New Providence Island, on which Nas-
sau is located, and then cover the smaller islands. The BIG news
is in Grand Bahama and that shall be dealt with below. In New
Providence, Pilot House Club (page 65) offers excellent Bahamian
food, in addition to the spectacular view of yachts; the Royal
Victoria has arranged for nightly performances of an excellent
English troupe at its theater in the round, insuring that, although
the hotel is in its second century, it is up-to-date as regards the
cultural wishes of visitors and residents; the Sheraton-British
Colonial now has 475 rooms and a dazzling wharf restaurant over-
looking the harbor; Nassau Beach Lodge has a zoo-room addition;
and the Mayfair has the only rooftop swimming pool in the
Bahamas!
In the rundown of nighteries (pages 73 through 76) changes
are rapid and constant. Carl Brice has replaced Richie Delamore
at the Drumbeat and he too may have been replaced by the time
of your visit. Rest assured, however, that someone good will be
there because the Drumbeat now has a reputation to keep up.
Yellow Bird Club, on Wolf Road, is enjoying popularity as one
of the better native clubs of the moment. Fisherman's Wharf, at
Wharfside on Potter's Cay, offers Bahamian seafood specialities
such as crawfish, crab and conch dishes.
Sadly, the Bronson Hartley Miniature Aquarium (page 82) has
closed and the Tropic Rover (page 86) is at present up for sale in
Miami. There is a new Tropic Bird, however, a catamaran with





1966-1967 SUPPLEMENT
room for 140 passengers, 80 more than its predecessor, and serving
beer, hot dogs and hamburgers on its cruises, to the accompani-
ment of a calypso band.
Pursuit of water sports received a boost from Bahamas Water
Sports at Coral Harbour. For $io you may go SCUBA or skin-
diving to nearby reefs; training in a nearby pool is arranged by
appointment for novices.
Paradise Island, mentioned on page 69, did not quite materialize
as Mr. Hartford had envisioned it. The past "year of famine"
seems now to be giving way to future "years of feast" following
the purchase of 75 per cent of the stock by the Mary Carter Paint
Company. The island, soon to be connected with New Provi-
dence by a 7o-foot, two-lane toll bridge, will house the Bahamian
Club casino (page 84) in a theater-nightclub accommodating 600
people. This is the only casino allowed in New Providence, ac-
cording to legislation passed by the government. The posh Cafe
Martinique has reopened and two ferries bring guests from the
Mermaid Tavern dock to the restaurant at I5-minute intervals.
The i8-hole golf course at Arawak and the facilities for horseback
riding, which have been inoperative for more than a year, are
being whipped into shape for use as soon as possible. In addition
to the plans for reopening existing facilities, there are plans for a
Ioo-room hotel, the Paradise Beach Lodge, to be built at Paradise
Beach, and a 5oo-room luxury hotel, as yet unnamed.
On the southernmost of the Biminis, the Sunshine Inn and
Marina (page 91) has been joined by the 24-room Buccaneer
Point Hotel and Marina, where there is space for 43 boats.
Abaco's Great Abaco Club at Marsh Harbour burned to the
ground in late 1965. The Green Turtle Club, a cottage complex
on Green Turtle Cay, offers a new alternative place to stay. On
Man-o-War Cay, the six-room Dock and Dine Yachtel offers
wonderful fish chowder and local crawfish dishes. The boatbuild-
ing profession, whose decline is mentioned on page 99, is on the
rise, thanks to the surge in pleasure crafting. More and more boats
are built each year to accepted yacht standards.





1966-1967 SUPPLEMENT


At Eleuthera's Spanish Wells, the 20-room Roberts Harbour
Club is a modestly priced newcomer. Craig Kelly has left French
Leave (page 102) but the place remains one of Eleuthera's top
spots. Rock Sound Club has built a few cottages on the beach,
with more to follow. The Current Club, a cottage colony with
dining hall and bar in its main building, has room for 48 guests.
Now let's take a deep breath to list events on much heralded
Grand Bahama Island (pages 93 through 97). Before "seriati-
mizing" current spectacular events, it should be mentioned that
Grand Bahama Island now has over 2100 rooms, including the
450-room Grand Bahama Hotel and Country Club mentioned on
page 97. Newcomers are:
(i) The 614-room Holiday Inn, mentioned on page 95 and
now completed as the "flagship of the international chain of
Holiday Inns." It is all blue and green with splashing fountains, a
pool-patio area that extends to a gorgeous beach, a nightclub and
shopping facilities.
(2) The Ludwig complex, a non-Freudian term referring to a
$ioo million development financed by D. K. Ludwig, consists of
King's Inn, star-shaped in construction, with a pool in the center
of the star; the Bahamia Beach Club and Marina, with a charter
fishing fleet, glass-bottom sightseeing boat, skindiving equipment
and guides and, naturally, full beach facilities; and the Bahamia
Golf Club, with an i8-hole championship course, the last to be
designed by Dick Wilson before he died. Soon to come as part
of this fabulous development are the International Shopping Ba-
zaar, mentioned on page 95, and El Casino, both now under con-
struction, and a iooo-room Princess Hotel, which is to be adjacent
to the Bahamia Beach Club and Marina fronting on the ocean.
(3) The 168-room Oceanus Hotel is built in a "U" shape, with
a pool-patio in the middle and a Pirate's Den for native entertain-
ment brought from Peanuts Taylor's Drumbeat Club. Guests are
invited to use the facilities of the neighboring International Un-
derwater Explorer's Club for their SCUBA and skindiving.
(4) The Freeport Inn, a small, resort-type hotel in the heart of





1966-1967 SUPPLEMENT
Freeport, has reasonable rates and a branch of Miami's famous
Mitch's Steak House for excellent food.
With all this expansion, it's hard to believe that the Caravel
Club (page 96) has closed and that the Imperial Bahama Hotel
could not make the grade (see page 96). It was sold and removed
from its location in Freeport Harbor, providing docking space for
visiting cruise ships, then suffered the ignoble fate of being sent
to the United States for scrap!

PUERTO RICO. The spring tide continues in Puerto Rico, with
recent emphasis on the less Miamiesque development outside the
San Juan environs. To treat the hotels, however, in their book
order, as given on pages i i through 121, we may begin by setting
the record straight insofar as the Caribe Hilton and the Nor-
mandie hotels are concerned. Although they are near Old San
Juan, the hotels are actually in the Condado section where the
majority of the big hotels are located. Other Condado notes: The
Mesdn Madrid is no longer a hotel and La Rada specializes in
long-term rental. The Hotel Lee has been bought by the owners
of the Swiss Chalet and is no longer kosher. Now under the name
of The Sands, the hotel will be joined to the Da Vinci by a huge
19-story tower in which there will be 120 rooms. The new 322-
room complex may have a new name by the time you reach
Puerto Rico.
The 182-room Racquet Club Hotel, in the Isla Verde section,
called on page I 19 the Hotel Club de Tenis, hopes to do for tennis
what the Dorado Beach Hotel did for golf in Puerto Rico. In the
Miramar section, the 14o-room Excelsior is a luxurious newcomer.
Among the guest houses, Duffy's (page 117) is in Isla Verde,
not Condado, and the Arco Iris (page 1 8) is closed. Other guest
houses that should be mentioned are the eight-room Danish, in
Santurce; Casa Cervantes, eight efficiency units near the beach in
the Condado section; and the seven-room San Antonio, on the
beach in Santurce.
Changes in the restaurant and nightspot roster include the





1966-1967 SUPPLEMENT
closing of the Intermezzo (page 125) and the opening of the
Zanzibar in the Sheraton. Among the new arrivals in the night
scene are Gatsby's, in old San Juan, Las Cuevas de Altamira, with
flamenco dancers, and Le Club with off-broadway revues. New
restaurants are the Barrachina, at 104 Fortaleza Street in the open
patio, specializing in ioo different versions of paella, El Mediter-
rdneo, at 254 San Justo, with Puerto Rican and Spanish food, and
El Gato Tuerto, a former Cuban restaurant, in the Condado
section.
The island of Vieques (page 136), first promoted as a resort
some years ago, but abandoned when increased Caribbean political
urgency meant that the Vieques military base was again potentially
active, is again a hideaway for tourists. The Sportsman's House,
with accommodations for 24 people, offers horseback riding and
water sports, although it is not right on the beach. Vieques is easily
reached in about an hour by the 9:00 A.M. ferry from Fajardo.
Incidentally, the Island Queen (page 136) is no longer running,
as of this writing.
Additional mentions for shopping (page 132 and following)
must include the Institute of Culture, 319 Fortaleza Street in Old
San Juan, where you may purchase posters, in typical Caribbean
colors and native Puerto Rican designs, suitable for framing when
you arrive home, and the Santiago Gallery, where you may buy
santos and prints. The Old San Juan shopping area is now served
by minibus and for io cents you may be driven through the nar-
row streets of the city. Bus service operates from 7:00 A.M. to
7:00 P.M. every day but Sunday.
The Ponce Museum, mentioned at the bottom of page 193, is
now in a spectacular new building designed by Edward Durrell
Stone, with fountains, pools, patios and high, white, windowless
walls, all light coming from overhead. Frangipanis bloom in hexa-
gonal pots around the second-floor balcony and the entire building
is a great testimony to native materials, native labor and native
works of art (supplemented by lesser works of some well-known
artists).





1966-1967 SUPPLEMENT
The golf precedent set by Dorado Beach Hotel has led to a
new golf course just east of San Juan at the Berivind Country
Club to allow those to whom Dorado is already familiar a new
place to try their skill. This I8-hole course has El Yunque Moun-
tain as a backdrop.
In closing this comment on Puerto Rico developments, let me
mention that the San Juan Batista Carnival will no longer be held
in summer, but is moving back to its historical pre-Lenten date.

VIRGIN ISLANDS. Many are the changes in the Virgin Islands
during the past year. Prodded by the catching of the record 814-
pound Marlin in 1964 (page 167), a Virgin Islands Fishing Asso-
ciation was organized as a full-fledged division of the Department
of Commerce. Dedicated solely to the promotion of fishing, the
Association publishes a regular newsletter about recent catches
in the islands. The tagging system, long prevalent throughout
the United States and now used also in the Virgins, means that
you may catch a fish previously caught (but tagged and turned
back), but certainly not tamed by the experience. Bonefishing is
being promoted at Caneel Bay and other island areas as being
good 365 days a year!
Golf makes big news with the completion of the Fountain
Valley Golf Course, called Estates St. Croix Golf Course on page
176, the first i8-hole course in the Virgin Islands. Sharp golfers
will find that benefits accrue from sighting some shots off ruins
of the sugar mills and palm trees that dot the course. The theater-
like backdrop of royal palm, mango and almond trees has already
made the 12th hole famous.
And now, to take the islands in the order used in part four
(pages 145 through 178), we begin with St. Thomas, where I neg-
lected to give proper mention to one of the top spots on the island.
Pelican Beach Club, mentioned only at the tail of the listing on
page 154, is a prize spot, somewhat remote from the rapidly-
commercializing area of Charlotte Amalie and with the atmos-
phere of St. John on St. Thomas. The hotel, located at the east





1966-1967 SUPPLEMENT
end of St. Thomas near the Red Hook landing and Sapphire Bay,
serves superb food, which you may have, as appetite bids, not only
for dinner but also at breakfast, which is served on your private
terrace and included in your rate. Pelican Beach Club has a
pleasant beach, ideal swimming and a congenial atmosphere for
those who want peace, quiet and comfort. A few brief mentions
are needed to bring the St. Thomas material up to date. Mountain
Top's Sunday night buffet must be mentioned. The roast beef is
supreme and monstrous, but it is only one of the hundred deli-
cacies on the groaning board. The Flamboyant Hotel is closed
and plans are under way to raze the old structure and build a
luxury hotel on what has always been the prime spot on the
island, with a spectacular view of open ocean and the quiet cove-
harbor of Charlotte Amalie.
Insofar as evening entertainment is concerned, most prominent
mention should be given to the feat of a group of local thespians
who have created the Three Crowns Theater on the site of the
former Jungle Club (page 156). The theater has already brought
many broadway shows to the islands and performed them success-
fully with a local repertory cast, sometimes supplemented by
visiting broadway talent.
Water Isle, a 5oo-acre island in the mouth of Charlotte Amalie
harbor whose hotel is mentioned on page 153, is in for BIG de-
velopment, some of which is already under way. Bought in late
1965 by a Chicago contractor, the island will be rejuvenated to
offer a Mediterranean-style residential community, three hotels, a
shopping area, tennis courts and a marina. The Yacht Haven
marina in Charlotte Amalie has been pepped up to offer more
facilities for the yachts that flock to the Caribbean waters during
the winter months, and the hotel itself has a recent addition along
the shorefront. Each room has a balcony facing the setting sun,
and spiral staircases connect the first floor with the second.

On St. John, where camping is the big news, little mention was
made in the text to aid the dedicated camper. Let that be cor-





1966-1967 SUPPLEMENT
rected here by saying that camping facilities exist at Cinnamon
Bay, where cottages, tents and a commissary for provisions are
available. Arrangements may be made by writing the National
Park Service, St. John. Trunk Bay, once the site of a delightful
small resort, is now available for the swimming and snorkeling
wishes of all and is truly one of the loveliest beaches in this archi-
pelago. Two restaurants for day-trippers are Islandia, at Cruz
Bay, and Cameron's, on the east end of St. John, where guests
may sample turtle steak and baked papaya made with local rec-
ipes. Either place will give you a more typical look at life on
St. John than does the sybarite life at Caneel Bay, which is still
lovely and the island's top attraction for luxury-loving visitors.

In the British Virgin Islands, Little Dix Bay, on Virgin Gorda
(page 164) has been joined by a small, unpretentious West Indian
place called Lord Nelson Inn. The slight renovations made in the
home of a former island resident make the guest house charming.
The fact that it is not right on the beach is somewhat compensated
for by the motor scooters available to guests.

St. Croix, the southernmost island of the Virgins and one of the
U.S. group, has its share of changes and additions. A relatively
new local guidebook called simply St. Croix Guide will be found
comprehensive and easy to use on the spot. In updating this pres-
ent volume here are some St. Croix notes: Whim Greathouse
(page 175) now has a couple in residence as caretakers for the
much expanded restoration. In addition to efforts at Whim, the
St. Croix Landmarks Society operates house and garden tours
throughout late January, February and March. Proceeds from
such glimpses of St. Croix life benefit the Society's restoration
projects. Incidentally, the Department of Commerce (a govern-
ment department handling tourism matters as distinguished from
the Chamber of Commerce, a private association of local business-
men) has taken over the entire old Customs building on the
waterfront in Christiansted and the Chamber of Commerce has




1966-1967 SUPPLEMENT
moved to the St. Croix Savings Bank Building on King Street. Do
visit both.
Queen's Quarter Hotel has not been mentioned and I rush to
add it to the St. Croix roster. The buffets have become island-
famous. The hotel is a complex of luxury villas, studio bedrooms
and suites overlooking the Caribbean. Kitchen facilities are pro-
vided in all units, although a full restaurant operates for all meals.
Swimmers will enjoy the pool and the nearby beaches. Cane Bay
Plantation's kitchen must be mentioned. The food is superb and
the informal atmosphere at the hotel has made it one of the fa-
vorite island eateries.
Shopping in Frederiksted is enhanced by Lime Tree Court, an
oasis of shops and pubs with a tropical hideaway atmosphere
much like the better-known ones of King's Alley, in Christiansted,
and Beretta Center, on St. Thomas. Christiansted boasts the is-
land's first discotheque. Called the Cruzan Moon, it is the brain-
child of a former Connecticut resident who had vacationed on
St. Croix for many years and moved to St. Croix a few years ago.








FOREWORD


This book deals with the most visited islands in two seas, the
Atlantic, with Bermuda and the Bahamas, and the Caribbean, with
Puerto Rico and the Virgins. The annual visitor total to Bermuda,
which lies 660 miles from the nearest point of the United States, in
North Carolina, now approaches a quarter of a million. The total
to the Bahamas, several of whose islands are but thirty minutes
distant by jet from Miami and West Palm Beach, is well over half
a million and may soar to the million mark within a few years.
Puerto Rico, which is not only a part of the United States but is
within the U.S. customs area, does almost as well as the Bahamas.
The United States Virgins, which are American islands but not
within the customs area, welcome about the same number of
visitors as Bermuda. The British Virgins, little visited by compari-
son but now beginning to come into their own, are included with
their American fellow-Virgins.
All of the islands covered herein are easy to reach from Ameri-
can airports and seaports and from their sister islands, whether of
American or British persuasion, Miami often acting as a sort of
liaison officer for air travelers, especially in the case of the neigh-
boring Bahamas.
A companion volume to this, called All the Best in the Carib-
bean, covers all the Caribbean islands, including Puerto Rico and
the Virgins, but since far fewer holiday visitors push on to the
whole great arc of the Antilles, stretching clear to the coasts of
Venezuela and Columbia, it has seemed advisable to produce this
volume for the convenience of those who must confine their
travels to the popular, handy-to-reach islands named in the title.
They have enough individuality and variety to satisfy the travel
hunger of prospective vacationists. So-cheers to you, and all the
best! The planes, all revved up, await you and the holiday-minded
steamers are tugging at their hawsers.











CONTENTS


Illustrations follow page 84.

FOREWORD V

PART ONE: BERMUDA

FIRST FACTS, WITH A DASH OF HISTORY
Bermuda's Strange Geology; Its Tourist Geography; Its
Colorful History; Its Weather and Seasons; Its Faltering
Economy, Saved by Tourism
THE QUEEN, THE MONARCH AND THE
FLYING FLEET 6
Regular Sailings and Cruise Ships; Air Routes and Services
ARRIVAL AND HOLIDAY LODGING 9
Immigration and Customs; Bermuda's Money, Interchange-
able with Dollars; The Bermuda Trade Development Board
and The Bermuda News Bureau; Sources of Information,
Oral and Printed; Visitors Service Bureau; The Tourist Map,
with Numerical Key; Hotels, Guest Houses, Cottage Colo-
nies and Residential Clubs, with Detailed Rundown
SIGHT-SEEING MADE EASY 29
Tours and Tour Companies, Land, Sea and Air; Some Excit-
ing Specialities; The Sights of Hamilton and St. George
ROVING FOR RESTAURANTS, SHOPS,
NIGHT LIFE 46
The Roster of the Restaurants in Town and Countryside;
Bermuda's Shops and Best Buys; The Five Fifths Liquor Bar-
gains; Night Clubs in Hamilton and in the Hotels; Steel
Bands, Calypso and Limbo Dancers
vii





CONTENTS


PART TWO: THE BAHAMAS
THE BAHAMIAN STORY FROM COLUMBUS TO
TOURIST TROVE 54
The History of the Bahamas; The Checkered Search for
Wealth; The Tidal Waves of Today's Tourism; The Cur-
rent Surge of Resort Projects
ARRIVAL AND FIRST THINGS TO KNOW 59
Airlines, Their Routes and Bargains; Cruise Ships, Regular
and Special; Immigration and Customs; Bahamian Pounds
and U.S. Dollars, Use Either; The Ministry of Tourism,
Chief Source of Information; The Coming of Autonomy in
Government

CHOOSING YOUR ROOF IN NASSAU AND
ITS ENVIRONS 64
Nassau's Central Hotels from East to West; Outlying Hotels
on New Providence; Paradise Island, Nassau's Golden
Strand

NASSAU'S RESTAURANTS AND FASCINATING
NIGHTERIES 71
The Restaurants and Cocktail Dens; Bay Street After Dark;
The Native Nightspots "Over the Hill"; Some Hardy Peren-
nials of Entertainment

THE SHOPS AND THEIR WINDOWS 76
Bay Street, Trunk of the Shopper's Tree; The Brice List for
Shopping Convenience; Some Special Things to Look for

THE SIGHTS OF BAY STREET AND BEYOND 80
The Standard Sights; Courtroom Drama As Witnessed by
the Visitor; Two Specialities, the Miniature Aquarium and
the Flamingos' Drill; Varied Sports for Viewer and Partici-
pant; Sea Trips on the Tropic Bird, the Tropic Rover and
Other Boats





CONTENTS ix
THE RESORT ISLANDS AND THE AIRWAYS
TO THEM 86
Some Island Geography; The Key Role of Bahamas Air-
ways; Mackey Airlines (see above, under "Arrival"); Pan
Am to Eleuthera (see below, under "Eleuthera")
ANDROS, THE LIGHTHOUSE CLUB AND AUTEC 88
The Geology of Andros and "The Mud"; The Atlantic Un-
dersea Test and Evaluation Center (AUTEC), a Vast Amer-
ican Undertaking; The Lighthouse Club and Its Yacht Club;
Bright Plans for the Future
THE BIMINIS, TWIN HEAVENS OF BIG FISHERMEN 91
North Bimini and South Bimini, with Their Fishermen's Inns
and Marinas
THE GRAND BAHAMA PLAN, BOTH
GRANDIOSE AND GRAND 93
The Amazing Dawn of a City, Freeport; Lucayan Beach
Hotel and Its Monte Carlo Casino; The Imperial Bahama,
a Great Floating Hotel; The Holiday Complex at West End
ABACO, MANY ISLES IN ONE 98
The Geography of Great and Little Abaco, with Their Off-
shore Cays; The Chief Hotels and Club-Resorts
HARBOUR ISLAND, SMALL BUT CHOICE;
AND SPANISH WELLS 99
The Picture Town, First Capital of the Bahamas; The Pink
Sands, Really Pink; Spanish Wells, Neighbor and Holiday
Rival
ELEUTHERA, A HUNDRED MILES OF FREEDOM io1
Governor's Harbour and the Resort of French Leave; Rock
Sound, Pan Am's Special Goal; The Rock Sound Club, a
Retreat of Casual Luxury
THE EXUMAS, WHERE EVERYTHING'S
"AW RIGHT" 104
Great and Little Exuma, Long String to the Bahamas Kite;
Two Thousand Inhabitants Named Rolle; The Colorful Ho-





x CONTENTS
tels of George Town; Two Holiday Outposts, San Salvador,
First Landfall of Columbus, and Great Inagua, Habitat of
Fifteen Thousand Flamingos



PART THREE: PUERTO RICO
SAN JUAN, U.S.A. Io8
The Tourist Tide; Internal Revenue Taxes; Airline Gim-
mick: Thrift Fares; The Origin of San Juan; Its Tourist
Geography Within "cockeyed contours"

SORTING HOTELS WITHOUT A COMPUTER III
Hotels in Old San Juan; In Condado; In Miramar and San-
turce; At and Near the Airport; Near San Juan

SELECTED SAN JUAN RESTAURANTS 121
In Old San Juan; In Santurce; In Condado; In Isla Verde

SOME NOTES ON NIGHTFUN 124
Baseball; Music; Ballet; Theaters; Lively Comments on Night
Clubs; Wilder Dives
SIGHTS AND SCENES OF OLD SAN JUAN I26
City Transportation; Downtown Orientation; The Chief
Historic Sights; The El Commandante Hippodrome Race
Track; The University of Puerto Rico

SOME SAN JUAN SHOPS 131
Liquor and the Internal Revenue Tax; Shops on Cristo, San
Josi, Tetudn and Fortaleza Streets; Puerto Rican Holidays
to Avoid
TO THE PEAK OF EL YUNQUE (THE ANVIL)
AND THE HOTEL EL CONQUISTADOR 134
The Striking Terrain of the Anvil; A Recreation Camp;
Luquillo Beach; The Town of Fajardo; Hotel El Con-
quistador, Perched on a Cliff; Islands Seen from El Con-
quistador; Launches from Fajardo to St. Thomas





CONTENTS xi
A CLOCKWISE CIRCUIT OF THE ISLAND 136
Air Service Within Puerto Rico and to and within the U.S.
Virgin Islands; The Beauty of the Sea Coast and Mountain
Drives; El Mirador de Anones, Lofty Restaurant; The
Dream Hotel El Barranquitas; Ponce, City of Charm and
Culture; Hotels in Ponce; The Unique Central Plaza; Museo
de Arte; Local Trips in and around Ponce; Hotels and Inns
on the North Coast; Cities of San Germdn; Boqueron;
Mayaguiez; Attractions on the Northern and Western Coast;
The Arecibo Ionospheric Observatory, One of the Wonders
of the World

PART FOUR: THE VIRGIN ISLANDS
ST. THOMAS, THE "VIRGIN SUPERIOR" 145
History and Facts; Customs Declaration; Information Cen-
ters; Internationalist City, Charlotte Amalie; The Four Fa-
mous Hills of St. Thomas
HOTELS OF ST. THOMAS, UP, DOWN
AND AROUND 149
Sources of Information; Eight Hotels With Rundown
RESTAURANTS BEFORE AND AFTER DARK 155
Separate Restaurants; Hotel Restaurants; Dine-and-Dance-
and-Entertainment; Jazz; Steel Bands
SHOPPING IN CHARLOTTE AMALIE 156
The Wholesale Price; Low-Down on Best Shops and Buys
ST. JOHN: CANEEL BAY AND THE VIRGIN
ISLANDS NATIONAL PARK 159
Transportation to St. John by Sea Only; Tours, Information;
Camping at the National Park; The Luxury Resort, Caneel
Bay Plantation
THE BRITISH VIRGINS: TORTOLA TO
LITTLE DIX BAY 161
Facts and History of the British Virgins; Tourist Informa-
tion; Travel by Sea and Air; Hotels and Inns in Tortola;





xii CONTENTS
Role Call of A Few Other Virgins; Little Dix Bay, Luxury
and Fishing

ST. CROIX 167
Nonstop from New York; Travel Between St. Thomas and
St. Croix; Facts about St. Croix; Visitors Information Bureau
A STAY IN THE LOVELIEST CAPITAL,
CHRISTIANSTED 170
The Danish Touch; How St. Croix Got Its Name

LODGINGS 171
Two At the Harbor's Edge; In the Capital; On An Island
Just Offshore; Several Hotels Outside the City

RESTAURANTS AND NIGHT SPOTS
IN CHRISTIANSTED 173
La Piazza and Other Good Capital Restaurants; Thrift
Drinkeries; Two Nightclubs With Steel Bands and Calypso

PLEASURE AND PLACES ON THE PERIMETER 174
Submarine Park, All Day Excursion; Two Luxury Hotels;
Whim Great House, Restored Sugar Plantation; Frederik-
sted's Hotels, Quality Restaurants and Night Spot; Ma-
hogany Road, Treat To the Eye; Charming Hotels; The
Midwinter Jonkey Races
INDEX 181











PART ONE


BERMUDA

First Facts, with a Dash of History
BERMUDA is an awesome mountain three miles high, resembling in
conformation Mt. Blanc, and the fact that 98.5 per cent of it is
under water does not make it any less a mountain. Its emergent
crest reaches a high point of 259 feet above sea level and in many
portions its visible contours "undulate" with such beauty and
sinuous grace as to be the envy of an Oriental dancer.
Bermuda is about twenty square miles in total area and lies some
660 statue miles east of Cape Hatteras, the nearest point of the
United States, 774 miles from New York and, to the surprise of
many travelers, only two miles farther distant, 776 miles, from
Boston.
Bermuda is not just another pretty island, if you'll pardon my
italics. Actually it's a lot of islands and islets, anywhere from a
hundred to 365, depending on who does the counting, but for
convenience this report shall retain the singular, capitalizing it
when all of Bermuda is meant. The Island, then, doesn't look in the
least like New Providence, capital island of the Bahamas, or St.
Thomas, capital island of the U.S. Virgins, though those are also
beautiful. If Easter lilies are its hallmark, as well as its chief export,
they are only one facet of its individual charm, a white background
for countless other flowers of every hue known to nature. The
houses, as polychromatic as the fields and gardens though always
painted in pastal colors, Bermuda pink and robin's-egg blue being
favored, are another facet quite as striking and effective. They are
built of limestone coral rock hewn right from the Island's own
I





2 BERMUDA
quarries, so soft that teen-age boys can and do saw it up into blocks
of needed sizes, yet when it is exposed to the air it very gradually
hardens until it is as strong as any rock normally used for founda-
tion and walls. Your house, when you build it, will grow stronger
every year. Trillions of hard-working marine animals helped to
make the stone that you'll use and in this you may feel lucky, for
Bermuda's waters, say natural scientists, are their "farthest north."
Had the submarine volcanic mountain which is the Island's base
been one or two hundred miles farther north the animals would
not have gone to work on it and there would have been no Ber-
muda today.
Lovely and cheerful as are the houses themselves, it is their roofs
that give such special distinction. Almost invariably they are com-
posed of overlapping slabs, two or three inches thick, of the same
material as the walls, technically known as aeolian limestone, and
by law all roofs must be whitewashed at least once a year with lime
or some manufactured wash that has government approval. The
reason for this law is to assure sanitation, since rain, falling on the
roofs and collected in tanks, is, in general, almost the Islanders' sole
source of fresh water for drinking and washing, but the result is an
enhancement of every home and building so roofed. The major
hotels, in most cases, have their own distillation plants for conver-
sion of salt water into fresh.
Unlike New Providence and most of the Resort Islands of the
Bahamas, Bermuda is a complex of rolling hills, surrounding and
all but landlocking half a dozen sounds and harbors. The reason for
its many hills is not because the basic rock was heaved up by
volcanic forces but because the winds of Aeolus (hence aeolian
limestone), blowing for thousands of millennia, took over where
the coral animals stopped, at the surface of the sea, and built up
drifts of sand, shells and coral skeletons to varying heights, which
nature slowly clothed in verdure. Nature's unhurried processes,
say the geologists, consumed about one hundred million years,
interrupted "recently" by a couple of ice ages. The rolling hills may
be a challenge to cyclists, though most have now chickened out by




FIRST FACTS, WITH A DASH OF HISTORY 3
using "motor assisted cycles" or the somewhat larger mobylettes,
but to the eye of tourism in general they are a thing of beauty and
a joy forever. By adding bays, coves and inlets of every shape and
form, nature has created a multiple charm within a small area, for
Bermuda is almost the exact size, in total area, of Manhattan. Its
shape, as a glance at any map reveals, is remarkably like that of a
fishhook, the eye being at Castle Harbour, the barb at Spanish
Point at the tip of Pembroke Parish, and the main portion of the
hook itself being Southampton and Sandys Parishes. This com-
parison is forced to ignore the two islands of St. George's Parish
at the far eastern end, which, however, include the airport of
Kindley Air Force Base, with the Civil Air Terminal where all air-
borne passengers land, and the city of St. George, Bermuda's most
fascinating and historic community. Mention of these parishes
leads me to state that Bermuda consists politically of nine parishes,
which are, from west to east, Sandys, popularly called Somerset,
Southampton, Warwick, Paget, Pembroke (this directly north,
across Hamilton Harbour, enfolding within itself the capital city
of Hamilton), Devonshire, Smith's, Hamilton, not to be confused
with Hamilton City, and St. George's.

Bermuda is named for Juan de Berm6dez, a Spanish navigator
who is thought to have sailed around it in 1515 and by this journey
bequeathed his name to cartography, but it is also called Somers
Island and that's where authenticated history comes in. On July
28, 1959, Bermuda celebrated the 350th anniversary of a dramatic
event that marks its founding as a British colony, namely the land-
ing on its shores, quite unplanned, of Admiral Sir George Somers.
The oft-told story runs this way: In the summer of I609, Somers
was placed in charge of a fleet of nine small ships, sent from Eng-
land by the Virginia Company to bring relief to the hard-pressed
colony in Jamestown, but in the words of a chronicler named
Silvanus Jourdain who was aboard the Admiral's flagship, the Sea
Venture, "we were taken with a most sharpe and cruell storme
upon the five and twentieth day of July." For three days of "per-




4 BERMUDA
petuall horror" the storm raged-nowadays it would be a hurricane
with a girl's name-and eight of the ships were driven off course
to their doom. The flagship, too, seemed doomed, since it "became
so shaken, tome and leaked," that all the efforts of the crew in
manning the pumps, even supplemented by the personal labors of
Somers himself and Sir Thomas Gates, Virginia's new deputy-
governor, failed to keep pace with the leaks. Finally, the valiant
men resigned themselves to drowning and "some having good and
comfortable waters in the ship fetcht them, and drunke one to
another, taking their last leave." But on the morning of the fourth
day, July 28th, the flagship sighted land and was driven ashore on
the east coast of St. George's Parish, probably off the point on
which Gates Fort now stands. By great good luck or good seaman-
ship the battered vessel grounded between two rocks that held her
more or less upright and prevented immediate disintegration, so
that all of the crew and the i50 passengers could get ashore safely,
one of the passengers being John Rolfe, destined to marry Poca-
hontas. That was, and has ever since been, Somers Day, Bermuda's
special holiday, and on Somers Day of 1959, the "35oth Anniver-
sary Theatre" of Bermuda gave the first performance of The Sea
Venture Pageant. An earlier drama by one William Shakespeare of
Stratford-on-Avon drew some color from the storm that wrecked
the Sea Venture, for he is thought to have read accounts of it,
probably including Somers' own report, and to have found them
so absorbing that he named his next play The Tempest. In Act I,
Scene II, he has Ariel remind Prospero how
"Thou call'dst me up at midnight to fetch dew
From the still-vex'd Bermoothes . ."
To wind up the Somers story, two small ships, the Deliverance
and the Patience, were painstakingly made from the wreckage of
the Sea Venture and these did succeed in reaching Virginia, taking
all the castaways with them except two unwanted miscreants who
were left on the Island to make out as best they could. Those two,
poor specimens though they were, were enough to keep the con-




FIRST FACTS, WITH A DASH OF HISTORY 5
tinuity of Bermuda going as a British colony and in 1612, after
Somers had reported in England, the Virginia Company made it
official by sending out the first governor and sixty settlers. Two
years later the Virginia Company sold out to the Bermuda
Company.
"Salt, cedar and sailors," as the saying goes, became Bermuda's
sources of livelihood, though the salt pans were actually on Turks
Island, far to the south, now a dependency of Jamaica, and hun-
dreds of Bermudian men went down there for half of every year
while their families stayed at home. This was not a happy way of
life and finally the salt trade declined anyway. Cedar was a far more
interesting source of livelihood and for a century and a half it was
of real importance, for Bermudians developed great skill in ship-
building and ships made of cedar proved fast and efficient. The
wood was used, also, for doors and furniture, but eventually there
came two disastrous blights of the cedar forests. A bad one occurred
in the i9th century, and in the middle of the zoth century, to
bring the tale of cedar up to date, there was a far worse one that
killed the trees all over the Island, though it was a little less severe
in Somerset than elsewhere. This blight came in 1949, destroying
some two million trees and turning great areas of green to a pitiable
gray, but at least it provided an abundance of firewood which you
and I may enjoy in our cottage-colony fireplaces, for no wood
burns better and brighter than cedar. Slowly, very slowly, new
forests are being born, but only a fraction of the new woodlands
is being planted with cedars and these are said to be of a lesser
quality than the original red cedar.
The "third sibilant," sailors, were not subject to blight and many
of them engaged in risky but very profitable privateering during
several periods of conflict, especially during the American Civil
War. When this rich traffic failed, at the conclusion of that war,
Bermuda tried raising garden truck, especially "Bermuda onions,"
but Texas farmers learned how to grow the same type of onions
on a big scale, having the gall to register this product legally in the
United States as "Bermuda onions," so that source of profit was,




6 BERMUDA
in turn, knocked out. But then vacationists began coming to the
rescue, first in a small way but then, even before World War I, in
considerable numbers.
From 1919 to 1933 America's experiment in prohibition brought
golden years of profit to Bermuda, not so much from illicit trading
as from flocks of thirsty Americans who visited Bermuda to escape
the liquor drought and the dubious goods of bootleggers. But after
1933 the "drinking trade" fell off sharply. Then, increasingly, a
normal holiday tourism took up the slack and developed as a
wonderful substitute. Bermuda now receives over two hundred
thousand visitors annually and the volume increases every year,
quite as much to our pleasure as to that of the Island's economy.
U.S. currency is exchangeable for that of Bermuda on the basis of
approximately seven shillings to the dollar-see exchange table
below-but tourists need never bother with this since dollars are
welcomed for all payments and Bermudians don't cheat.


The Queen, the Monarch and the Flying Fleet
The 2 ,6oo-ton QTEV Queen of Bermuda has long since become
an integral part of the American way of life, like TV, baseball and
Hollywood. Every year she carries upwards of thirty thousand
vacationists to Bermuda, including those who elect to take her "six-
day, live-aboard cruises," occasionally altered out of season to
include Nassau in a Triangle Cruise. The standard cruises leave
New York on Saturday afternoon, reach Hamilton, Bermuda,
Monday morning, leave Hamilton Wednesday afternoon, reach
New York Friday morning, and if this is a few hours short of six
full days it is at least six full nights, and as every "cruiser" knows,
the nights on a vacationing steamer are quite as important as the
days. Everyone loves the Queen, and with good cause, for she
doesn't just get you there, she courts you, cuddles you and mothers
you. From breakfast time to the small hours of morning she gives
you things to do, and if nothing is your idea of fun she gives you
that.





THE QUEEN, THE MONARCH AND FLYING FLEET 7
You'd think the Queen would get worn out with her unceasing
activity and fed up with caring for six or seven hundred passengers
every week of her life-to date she has carried nearly seven hun-
dred thousand vacationists to Bermuda-but she's as indefatigable
as a stage queen. "The cruise must go on," and when in New York
she regularly makes a quicker change, or turnabout, than perhaps
any other ship in service, for thirty-six hours, from docking to
sailing, is her absolute maximum. In that period she must say good-
bye to this week's six hundred, clean up, make up, get set, put on
her suave hostess manner and welcome next week's six hundred,
which is nothing to her labors during and immediately after World
War II. A plaque on one of the ship's walls bears this legend: "The
Queen of Bermuda Served as an Armed Merchant Cruiser 1939-
1943 and as a Troopship 1943-1947, During Which Time She
Steamed 370,251 Miles and Carried 110,565 Naval, Army and Air
Force Personnel of All Allied Nations."
The approach to Hamilton calls for a high order of navigational
skill, for the Queen must watch the tides and avoid the reefs that
coral animals are still constructing and then make her way through
a gut called Two Rock Passage well within the harbor. This is an
exciting course, for the Two Rocks are there all right, so close that
the passengers lining the decks feel that they could almost reach
out and touch them. But the passage has been made safely, with
never a bump or a scratch, nearly two thousand times. And so the
QTEV Queen of Bermuda makes a graceful about face, and eases
up to her wharf on Front Street, in the heart of the capital, heading
out, all ready for her return sailing. To strollers on that busy street
she looms up like a floating mountain. The fact that she faces out
doesn't mean that she is in a hurry. She'll repose at the wharf for
three days and two nights, and during that time she is a floating
hotel for her guests. You're asking what the Queen's initials,
QTEV, stand for and since you've nobly refrained from calling
her Cutie, as those do who can't help it, I'll reveal that they mean
Quadruple Turbo-Electric Vessel.
The i5,ooo-ton S.S. Ocean Monarch is also every ton a cruise





8 BERMUDA
ship, though of less capacity, for she was specifically designed, in
every particular, for holiday travel. Her port of call in Bermuda
during the high spring season is usually not Hamilton but the
earlier mentioned St. George, the original capital, a photogenic and
appealing town and harbor at the extreme northeastern tip of the
island group. Often, the Monarch ties Bermuda to Nassau in a
Triangle Cruise of eight days, as does the Queen in winter, and on
some sailings she adds Caribbean ports in a longer cruise. In Aug-
ust, she even makes at least one cruise to the Saguenay River and
then Quebec, Halifax and Bermuda, this being a twelve-day cruise.
Of one thing you may be sure, the Monarch is a thoroughly com-
fortable ship, even though she weighs 8600 tons less that the Queen.
As a matter of fact, she is much younger than the Queen, having
been first put into service in 1950, as against 1932, but lest I should
seem ungallant in this reference to the Queen's age I should mention
that in 1947-48, after her long war service, she experienced an
eight-million-dollar face lifting and body lifting, and in 1962 an-
other four-and-a-half-million-dollar renewal that made her virtu-
ally a new ship.
Air routes and services to Bermuda are numerous and conven-
ient. Pan American flies direct jets both from New York and Bos-
ton; BOAC flies Britannias from New York and Boeing jets from
Jamaica and Nassau, with Miami connections to Nassau by Bahamas
Airways and Pan Am; Eastern flies jets from Philadelphia, New
York and Washington; and Air Canada flies jets from Toronto and
Montreal.
Pan Am's clipper services, by Boeing Intercontinental and DC-8
jets, are prominent in the picture, providing several flights daily
from New York and at least three a week from Boston, with more
in the high spring season, plus extras from both departure points
on weekends of heavy demand. The flight time and the fares are
exactly the same from New York and Boston. A special New
York-Bermuda round-trip eight-day bargain fare, available from
November I to mid-March with the exception of the Christmas
fortnight, is presently priced at $95.00 in economy class.




ARRIVAL AND HOLIDAY LODGING 9
BOAC, with its daily British services, is equally prominent in
Bermuda travel. An advertised bargain is the "Round-Trip Sunset
Fare New York to Bermuda $95.oo for Departure After 9:oo P.M."
No period for the length of one's stay is specified but only the
evening departure. Bargain fares on all lines are, of course, subject
to change, usually upward, so the above offering will need checking
at the time of your proposed trip, but they are so tempting that I
have ventured to list the present figures here.
Eastern Air Lines has long maintained dependable services from
New York and Washington and has its vast network of domestic
lines knotting dozens of key American cities to them.
Air Canada is, of course, the popular carrier with Canadians, who
welcome a change from their rigorous latitudes to the benign
mildness of Bermuda.


Arrival and Holiday Lodging
Bermuda's tourist industry is shepherded and promoted by a
vigorous and alert organization called the Bermuda Trade Devel-
opment Board, which, with its publicity sidekick, the Bermuda
News Bureau, maintains headquarters in Hamilton and offices in
New York (620 Fifth Avenue), Chicago (6 North Michigan
Avenue) and Toronto (1 i Richmond Street W.), where advance
information and brochures may be had. The New York branch has
a street floor information office on the mall leading from Fifth
Avenue to Rockefeller Plaza, with windows that catch the eye and
invite entrance.
If additional detailed information about the Island's history,
topography, climate, etc. is desired the prospective visitor may
find it meticulously covered in Mary Johnson Tweedy's pocket-
sized handbook, Bermuda Holiday, and in a guide of somewhat
smaller compass but strong on history and geology by William
Zuill called Bermuda Today. Current information of the what-to-
do-and-see-and-buy type, available in all the Trade Development
Board's offices, is set forth in two publications distributed gratis,




10 BERMUDA
This Week in Bermuda, obviously a weekly, and Preview of Ber-
muda, a biweekly. A first-rate Handy Reference Map of Bermuda,
prepared for the Trade Development Board by C. S. Hammond &
Co. and foldable to the size of a small letter, is also given out free.
This spots in all hotels, guest houses and important sights, the places
of lodging numbered in little circles, the sights in squares, and on
the reverse side a generous compendium of Island facts along with
inset maps of the central parts of Hamilton and St. George. Separ-
ate pictorial maps of these communities, still no larger than a busi-
ness-size letter, give more detailed information to the sightseer.
Once in Bermuda one may supplement all the above by the local
press, The Royal Gazette in the morning, The Mid-Ocean News
in the afternoon, plus the Bermuda Sun, a weekly, and a high-grade,
lavishly illustrated monthly called The Bermudian.
Finally, on this ramifying subject, the Bermuda Chamber of
Commerce maintains a Visitors' Service Bureau at the Ferry Dock
on Front Street, Hamilton, with others at the Bermuda Airport and
in King's Square, St. George. The basic items mentioned above
are to be found here in piles, for the taking.
Arrival is a simple, uncomplicated process, whether you come
by sea or by air. Immigration and customs are quickly and court-
eously handled, for you and I are Bermuda's bread and butter. No
passport is needed, nor any vaccination certificate for the return
to U.S. shores. Service limousines and taxis are waiting to take
passengers to their hotels.
Upon leaving the Island there is a bit of a thorn among the roses.
You have to pay a departure tax of one Bermudian pound, which
translates itself, like the British pound, as $2.82. This applies to
every individual, including infants in arms, and is applicable not
only to tourists but to all resident Bermudians. Offsetting this, a
most happy thing to report is that United States Immigration and
Customs formalities are taken care of in Bermuda. It is quite
wonderful to arrive in New York or Boston from a foreign port
with all the simplicity of an arrival from another home airport.
Mention of the British pound above brings us to the subject of




ARRIVAL AND HOLIDAY LODGING 11
exchange and I may as well record, exactly as given on the back
of the reference map, the table of conversion of sterling into
U.S. dollars, the Canadian dollar being, at present, worth 8 to 1o
per cent less. (The symbol for the British penny is d, which is
curiously archaic, since d actually stands for denarius, a small coin
of Roman times.) Here is the table:
3d "thruppence" 40
6d sixpence 7
I/- one shilling I4
1/3 one and three I8
z/6 one and six 2I1
2/- two shillings 288
2/6 half a crown 350
5/- five shillings 70o
7/6 seven and six $1.07
io/- ten shillings $1.41
15/- fifteen shillings $2.12
17/6 seventeen and six $2.47
f i one pound $2.82
5 five pounds $14.10
10 I ten pounds $28.20
15 fifteen pounds $42.30
z20 twenty pounds $56.40
If Bermuda has virtually no exports except Easter lilies it is
equally without industry, almost, except-us. Vacationing visitors,
by actual statistics, account for nearly 80 per cent of the colony's
income, but what a potent percentage that is. It's enough to keep
Bermuda in comfortable solvency, with no public debt, despite the
fact that there are no income or inheritence taxes. With such a one-
track economy it is obvious that hotels of every attractive type are
the most conspicuous feature of Bermudian life. More than sixty of
them are listed in the semiannual sheet of the Trade Development
Board and nearly as many are pictured in the Board's excellent
booklet Where to Stay in Bermuda. An IBM machine would be




12 BERMUDA
needed, it seems, to sort and classify them all, but this report shall
be relatively short, sorting them first into categories and types.
Practically all of them, especially the larger places, operate on the
Modified American Plan, called MAP for short, meaning room,
breakfast and dinner. For lunch you're on your own and may well
find it good fun to eat around, with so many places to choose from.
At virtually all hotels and guest houses lunch may be bought sep-
arately, the big hotels usually providing a special coffee shop for
the purpose. The Bermuda Plan, BP, means lodging and breakfast,
this being available in many of the small and middle-sized places
but not in the big ones. Full American Plan, AP, is at present
available in only one place of importance, the cottage colony of
Cambridge Beaches, of which more later.
The visitor should note that the high season and off season are
decidedly different in Bermuda than they are in the more tropical
Bahamas and the Caribbean. The months from November to mid-
March are off season in Bermuda, whereas in the other islands they
are the high season, especially after New Years. Charges are less in
winter in many Bermuda hotels rather than more, as in the other
islands. These differences, with exact dates, are clearly set forth in
the Trade Development Board's rate sheets.
Another thing the visitor should know in advance is decidedly
not seasonal. I refer to the nightly, all-nightly, all-yearly serenade
by myriads of tiny tree frogs, thumbnail-sized, that flourish in
every part of the Island. Their voice, quite different from that of
their Puerto Rico cousins the coquis, has a range of only two or
three notes but those are in the treble area and of piercing quality.
They sing only after dark. Now here's a funny thing about this
serenade: I have never heard a tourist complain about it, not one.
Maybe some do complain, but it is my belief that 99 per cent of
them quickly adjust their hearing to it, and that many even get to
like it. I count myself in this segment. I find their chorus compan-
ionable, though I confess to worrying at times about their larynxes.
How can a throat the size of a pinhead stand the wear and tear of
ten or twelve hours of singing every night?




ARRIVAL AND HOLIDAY LODGING 13
Where to Stay in Bermuda lists the wide range of possibilities
under seven headings: Large Hotels; Small Hotels; Guest Houses;
Small Guest Houses; Clubs; Cottage Colonies; and finally, House-
keeping Cottages. The ensuing report, comprehensive but not
claiming to give every possible hostelry, shall list alphabetically the
first three categories and the cottage colonies, with an explanation,
also, of the clubs, by which the booklet means private clubs. Am-
plifying comment will follow these bare lists. The figures after
each place indicate the number of guests that can be accommo-
dated.
Large Hotels: Belmont Golf and Country Club (220); the
Bermudiana (460); Carlton Beach Hotel (400); Castle Harbour
Hotel (500); Elbow Beach Surf Club (415); Harmony Hall (124);
Inverurie Hotel (164); Princess Hotel and Cottages (500); St.
George Hotel (185).
Smaller Hotels: The Briton (68); Buena Vista (46); Coral
Island Club & Hotel (90); Deepdene Manor (40); Glencoe (40);
Newstead (65); Rosedon (44); Sherwood Manor (46); Waterloo
House (60).
Guest Houses: Fourways Inn (32); Loughlands (24); Salt Ket-
tle House (13); Sugar Cane Point (30); White Sands (32).
Cottage Colonies: Ariel Sands (72); Cambridge Beaches (98);
Horizons and Cottages (64); Lantana Colony Club (68); The
Ledgelets (24); Palmetto Bay Club and Cottages (54); Pink Beach
Cottage Colony (54); Pompano Beach Club (70); The Reefs
Beach Club (65).
Private Clubs: Two very important residential clubs, both on
south shore beaches, are Coral Beach and Tennis Club, not to be
confused with Coral Island Club, and Mid-Ocean Golf Club. In
both of these retreats of luxury an introduction by a member is a
prerequisite, as is also the case of the more modest Pomander
Gate Club, at the end of Hamilton Harbour, which, for some
reason Where to Stay does not list under private clubs.
The coverage that follows is keyed alphabetically to the Handy
Reference Map and shall take up the various lodging places by their





14 BERMUDA

several types. A special service to the reader, worked out for this
book, is the listing of all places shown on the map by number, in
numerical order. Why so special? Well, let's suppose you are a
visitor armed with this map. You see on it, for a single example,
Number o5, in a circle, indicating a place of lodging, and figure
that the location might be just the thing for you, but what is it?
What the dickens is it? The legend on the bottom of the map has
twelve columns of ten items each, circles for lodging, squares for
sights, all intermingled, but they are given alphabetically and you
may have to spend a minute or two scanning all hundred and
twenty items to find what 50 is. The numbers are a grand, inchoate
jumble. Number 50 turns out to be the third item in column ten.
There it is at last, Sherwood Manor. The following numbered table
does away with your frustrating and time-consuming searches for
the identity of circled numbers. The numbers in squares shall be
similarly given in numerical order when this report reaches sight-
seeing. Here, then, in full, is the numerical map key, though I must
preface it with the caution that if, after a few years, the Board
brings out a revised map it may throw some of the numbers out
of kilter. In such case this will catch up with it in future editions
by altering the figures where necessary.
LODGING PLACES BY NUMBER ON THE HANDY REFERENCE MAP (CIRCLES)
I. Cambridge Beaches 25. Glencoe
3. Sugar Cane Point 26. Greenbank
4. Willowbank 27. Campbell Corer Guest House
6. Teucer Place 28. Salt Kettle House
7. Ledgelets 29. Fourways Inn
8. Lantana 30. Mount Royal
Io. Pompano Beach 31. Newstead
i Reefs Beach Club 32. The Gables
12. Carlton Beach Hotel 33. Horizons & Cottages
16. Mermaid Apartments 34- Coral Beach Club & Hotel
17. Mizzen-Top 35. Buena Vista
18. Marley Beach 36. Montgomery Cottages
19. Belmont 37. Loughlands
20. Sapphire Bay Cottage Colony 38. Harmony Hall
22. Surf Side Cottages 39. Elbow Beach Surf Club
23. Glendon 41. South Capers
24. Inverurie 42. Sunny Isle Cottages





ARRIVAL AND HOLIDAY LODGING


43. White Sands
44. Sea Horse Cottages
45. Pomander Gate Club and Cot-
tages
46. Trevelyan
49. Grandview
50. Sherwood Manor Hotel
52. Sunset Lodge
53. Archlyn Villa
54. Cannville
55. Swanston
56. The Briton
59. Avonmoor
60. Raintree Guest House
61. Fordham Hall
62. Princess Hotel
63. Rosedon
64. Oxford House
65. Waterloo House


66. The Bermudiana
70. Richmond House
73. Plaza Hotel
74. Imperial Hotel
76. Kenwood Club
79. Tallent Villa
83. Ariel Sands
85. Coral Island Club & Hotel
87. Palmetto Bay Club and Cot-
tages
88. Deepdene Manor
89. Harringay
91. Capistrano
95- Pink Beach Cottage Colony
ioi. Castle Harbour Hotel
1o2. Mid-Ocean Club & Golf Course
104. St. George Hotel, Golf & Beach
Club


Now follows the comment, in brief detail, in alphabetical se-
quence, on hotels, large and smaller, on leading guest houses and
on cottage colonies. Again it is selective and makes no pretense of
covering all of the scores of places. Each of the Big Nine hotels,
however, will have a few explanatory words.

THE BIG NINE
Belmont Golf and Country Club, long known and liked, under-
went a major operation in the last half of 1964, resulting in what
can be fairly called a new and magnificent club-hotel. Located on
relatively high ground in Warwick Parish, it commands an un-
surpassed view of the island-dotted harbor and of Great Sound,
with the tenuous arm of Somerset (Sandys Parish) and Ireland
Island beyond the Sound. The large pool is on a level lower than
the main building, to the west of which stretch the lovely green
acres of the golf course. Belmont is part of a notable trio consist-
ing of three hotels, itself, the Bermudiana, with its own delightful
Beach Club on the south shore, and Harmony Hall. The Beach
Club welcomes guests of all three hotels and provides two-way
transportation. The facilities of the Golf Club are open to all guests





16 BERMUDA
of the three hotels, and meals may be exchanged from one to an-
other without extra charge.
The Bermudiana is an imposing and sophisticated tourist palace
rising from a slope at the western edge of Hamilton. The old
Bermudiana burned to the ground in 1958 but grew from its ashes
in more magnificent form than before. About three fourths of its
rooms face the harbor, and all of these have private balcony. The
array of public rooms varies from its enormous, harbor-view din-
ing room, with places for all guests to dine at one seating, to the
small Bermuda Room, for nightly dancing, and from the Cedar
Bar and the adjacent Terrace Room accented by a vast white fire-
place with the coat-of-arms of Britain over it, to the Moongate
Garden Night Club, indoors, and the Sunken Garden, where guests
dance under the palms and the open sky.
Carlton Beach Hotel, first opened in 1962, is a six-hundred-foot
arc of modern luxury in Southampton Parish near the foot of
Gibb's Hill, from which rises Bermuda's tallest lighthouse. The
hotel, almost filling a rocky peninsula, is of ingenious design, the
sea side overlooking coral cliffs, the inner side, oddly enough,
overlooking the pool and two lovely crescent beaches, left and
right. Still odder, the fourth floor is high above pool and beach on
the inner side, but opens directly onto a broad clifftop lawn on the
sea side. At a special point on this cliff-lawn all honeymoon couples
resident in the hotel are offered a special champagne breakfast
every Tuesday morning and honeymooners are, in fact, a special
concern of the Carlton, though most of the big hotels offer a
honeymoon package of some sort. The Carlton's eight-day, seven-
night Honeymoon Special gives the lovebirds bargain rates along
with many special perquisites such as free bikes, free honeymoon
albums and, in winter, free exchange dining privileges with other
top hotels. The rates of this package are cheaper, as in most Ber-
muda hotels, from November i to March 15, the Christmas fort-
night usually excepted. As a final Carleton note I might add that the
rugged coast hereabouts, formerly called Port Royal, was a great
place, in early times, for "lame ducks" as ships were called that had





ARRIVAL AND HOLIDAY LODGING


sailed to their doom on the treacherous reefs. Many an islander was
not above watching eagerly for wrecks and then looting them
shamelessly of all they bore. Sometimes stark tragedy was added to
chicanery, as when the three-hundred-ton Virginia Merchant
struck a reef close by and lost 168 lives. The grim story of the lame
duck period, before Gibb's Hill Lighthouse finally rose in 1845 to
give warning of the reefs, is set forth on a large signboard on the
Carlton's cliff-lawn.
Castle Harbour Hotel is among the largest and plushiest of the
Big Nine, a three-hundred-room hotel magnificently located in
its own grounds, 180 acres in extent, on a bluff between Castle
Harbour and Harrington Sound. It has an Olympic-size swimming
pool, its own eighteen-hole golf course, the toughest Bermuda
course but with the best greens-the famous Mid-Ocean Club is
also a golfing neighbor-its own south shore beach, with facilities
for light lunch, to and from which it provides free transportation,
and, as a special feature, the hotel has a lovely "Coffee Chine,"
which is a tropical sunken garden of exotic beauty.
In 1964-65, the owners closed the hotel for about four months to
effect a vast two-million-dollar rejuvenation. Among the results of
this effort are a brand-new kitchen, new, late-type air conditioning
throughout, new aluminum windows, 812 of them in all, three new
high-speed elevators serving the six floors and mezzanine, redecor-
ating of the rooms, forty-five to be rebuilt putting them in the de
luxe category with terraces, modernizing of the bathrooms, and,
for a real showpiece, the huge and luxurious new Sea Venture
Lounge, whose carpet alone, specially made in Brussels, cost
$13,000. This major renewal job was widely and quite properly
trumpeted as a major event in Bermuda's calendar of tourism.
Elbow Beach Surf Club is a huge holiday palace on high ground
overlooking the south shore in Paget Parish, each seaside room
provided with a private balcony. Its superb salt water pool, seem-
ingly caught in a protecting arm of the hotel itself by a crescent of
cabana suites with lanais, probably wins more patronage than does
the lovely beach, for that is a little way below and is reached by




18 BERMUDA
a shuttle service of Volkswagens, though footwork is not really
arduous. At the beach there is a good informal luncheon terrace,
immediately below which the Atlantic surf pounds or laps accord-
ing to the whims of the wind. Facilities for changing are, of course,
found at the beach. Indeed, cabins are available to nonguests and in
rush periods they may be in overdemand. The dining room in the
main building has a wonderful view of the landscaped grounds
sloping down to the sea. In addition to the main hotel, there are
Surf Side Cottages for those who want more privacy. These have
kitchenettes, but all facilities of the hotel are at the disposal of
cottage guests.
Harmony Hall, on middle ground between sea and harbor in
Paget Parish, is a cottage-style place with its own countryside
charm and its own enthusiastic following. Its garden swimming
pool and patio-for-drinks are always popular, but it has, also, per-
haps surprisingly, one of Bermuda's gayest nightspots, the Gombey
Room. Not very long ago the hotel greatly enlarged its accom-
modations, with two two-story buildings accommodating over
sixty guests, but most rooms are in cottages spread around in seven
and a half acres of lawns and tropical flowers. There are two larger
cottages with six bedrooms each, which can be taken over by a
family or group or divided into separate units.
Inverurie Hotel, directly on the harbor at the point where Paget
and Warwick meet, is adjacent to the ferry halt of Darrell's Wharf,
which is a cheerful talking point, since the ferries are a barrel of
fun. The owner of Inverurie has done an admirable job of plowing
back into the property all profits over a considerable period. He
has spent about a million dollars in enlargements and improvements
(1958, 1961, 1964) with new wings, or units, intelligently planned
and built, rising just to the rear and above the main building, with
a pool and a tennis court as part of the development. One of these
new wings has running ice water in every room, an advantage that
is unique, I believe, in Bermuda. In the main building the lounge,
bar and dining room were all decorated by Dorothy Draper, and
a delightful feature of the big seaside wing is that every room is





ARRIVAL AND HOLIDAY LODGING 19
decorated with a water color by Alfred Birdsey, a talented Ber-
muda artist of whom I shall have more to say. An added attraction
is that most of the hotel's furniture is of Bermuda cedar, as is its
massive main door, which cost $400 to build. A special advantage
of the Inverurie is its immediate proximity to the harbor, its dining
room, bar and lounge being only a few feet from the lapping
wavelets of the harbor and the open-air terrace seeming to push
out into the water.
The Princess Hotel & Cottages, in its present reincarnation, is
the newest, except for the rebuilt Belmont, of the Big Nine and
one of the most favored. It is in Pembroke Parish at the western
end of Hamilton City but within easy walking distance of the
shops. It is a U-shaped Bermuda-pink structure at water level,
with a large pool rimming the harbor and with its own wharf,
from which some of the excursion boats take off. The lobby is
striking, with twenty-foot walls of Bermuda cedar-the hotel has
forty-two thousand square feet of it in all-and, at one point, a
wall of coral rock with a cascade trickling into a three-coins
fountain now glittering with coins tossed into the water by guests
hopeful of returning. This is an admitted but delightful extrav-
agance, for the cascade is fresh water from the hotel's own ex-
pensive distillation plant, which daily converts seventy thousand
gallons of sea water into fresh. From the lobby opens Quality
Walk, a lane of fine shops and of services. On the floor above is
the big Adam Lounge, in excellent Adam taste, where tea is served
every afternoon, and, on the harbor edge, the circular Gazebo
Bar with outside Regency Terrace. Here, too, is the Three Crowns
Dining Room, with a trio of big glittering crowns suspended from
the ceiling. An extra one, outside, tops the dining room and, faintly
glowing red at night, is a landmark to be seen from all over the
inner harbor and from Paget Parish across the way. Large as is the
dining room, it is not large enough to serve all five hundred guests
at once. Breakfast is never a problem, but at dinner two seatings
are needed, at 6:15 and 8:30. As on large steamers, you make your
choice at the beginning of your stay. The Princess Room, a very





20 BERMUDA
large night club with native entertainment, opens to a starlight
terrace dance patio at the water's edge. The bedrooms, many with
balconies, are the last word in comfort, attractive decor and
furnishings. All in all, the reborn Princess is an impressive hostelry.
For sea bathing, the Princess has its private beach club on the south
shore.
St. George Hotel is on the crest of Rose Hill in the heart of St.
George. From its main dining room, its outdoor dine-and-dance
terrace and its upper belvedere, where guests are offered swizzle
parties every Tuesday evening, the close-up view of the glamorous
old town and its harbor is one of the unforgettable of tourism. St.
George has been called "a living Williamsburg," but with a sea of
white roofs, as seen from the hotel, adding their special Bermudian
touch. A steep paved walk leading from the hotel terrace straight
down to the heart of town is aptly called, by the hotel's literature,
the "Walk into History." The St. George calls itself a golf and
beach club and it does indeed have its own nine-hole private golf
course and its own private beach, this with free transportation to
and from. The golf course is adjacent to the hotel. It has also,
within its very self, a famous outsized covered swimming pool.


SOME SMALLER HOTELS
The Briton looms up on Langton Hill, the highest point of
Pembroke Parish, directly above Hamilton, swept by cool breezes
day and night. It is of good quality, not expensive and has a hilltop
swimming pool, with summer snack bar. Unique among Bermuda
hotels, so far as I know, it has a stunning downward view to the
city and harbor on the south, the open Atlantic on the north.
Coral Island Club & Hotel, located on a cheerful boating-busy
inlet that leads to Lazy Corner in the village of Flatts (romantic
name!) in Hamilton Parish, underwent a tremendous metamor-
phosis in the last months of 1964 and the first ones of 1965, the
changes including an increase in the number of beds from seventy
to ninety. This is an Elysian goal for those who fish, sail, skindive




ARRIVAL AND HOLIDAY LODGING 21
and water-ski. Others, who merely enjoy living practically on the
water, love it, too.
Deepdene Manor, on a rise just to the southeast of Flatts, is an
extremely luxurious converted mansion of Florentine character
with the original superb furnishings, carpets and dining room
service intact and with its Florentine Garden blooming in aristo-
cratic perfection. Just below the little hill on which the mansion
stands is an elaborate boathouse, a part of the same property, on
the edge of Harrington Sound. Deepdene's only flaw, from the
guest's angle, is that one must climb two long flights of stairs to
reach the bedrooms, an exercise which is not much lightened by
the fact that the first flight, leading to the office, is a handsome
circular staircase.
Glencoe is a lovely old mansion on the waterfront at Salt Kettle,
which is a ferry halt quite as appealing as its name. The ferry
landing is only a few steps from the hotel. Glencoe is another sea-
lover's delight, well adapted for children's bathing as well as for
deep water swimming. It has a long tradition of unostentatious
aristocracy.
Nev~stead, in Paget, consists of a large main building and several
separate cottages on a lawn beside it and also at the very edge of
the harbor, near the ferry stop called Hodsdon's Landing. The
cottages beside the main building are named Shoreby (a large one),
Keepsake and Briny, while those at the harbor's edge are called
East Winds and West Winds, these names adding something to
their basic charm. Newstead could be labeled a cottage colony
except for the dominant role played by its main building, which
has a mellowed elegance about it, enriched by an abundance of
lovely antique furniture. The big lounge of this building is espe-
cially delightful, with a large painting over the fireplace by Kitty
Menke, a local artist, who would seem to have borrowed some of
her inspiration from Manet. The beautiful landscaping of the
whole estate, with terraces sloping down to the water on one side
and broad lawns and gardens on the other, is an asset, as is, on the
inner man's side, the uniformly excellent cuisine and courteous




BERMUDA


service. A bright touch for breakfast is two freshly-picked hibiscus
flowers on each table in the glassed-in porch. Newstead guests may
swim from a little dock at the harbor's edge or from the Coral
Beach Club, on the south shore, which is under the same owner-
ship, and this is a rather special privilege for that exclusive club
accepts guests, as its literature proclaims, only "by membership
introduction." There is a charge of $2.oo a day per person for use
of the club, but at least it need not be by special invitation. Water-
loo House (see below) is also under the same ownership and its
guests have the same privileges.
Rosedon, on the western outskirts of Hamilton, directly across
the road from the Princess, is a mansion-type hotel of considerable
distinction which has a pleasantly secluded pool in the rear, sur-
rounded by two-story units of modern bedrooms. Breakfasts
around the pool, or on one's own porch overlooking the pool are
an agreeable feature. Rosedon's newer rooms are supplied with air
conditioning, with reverse cycle for heat, and in the main building
there is central heat, this latter being by no means general in the
smaller hotels and guest houses.
Sherwood Manor, bearing the surname of the young hotelier
who built it up to its present status, Sydney Sherwood, is one of
the most interestingly located of all Bermuda's hotels. Situated
nearly at the tip of Pembroke Parish and on a peninsula jutting into
the sound, with a lovely inlet nearly surrounding it, plus a small
but good beach on the sound side, it is the boat center of the Island,
with dozens of boats to rent, outboards, inboards, sailing boats.
When other hotels have calls for such craft they usually secure
them from Sherwood Manor, which also has the only-operating
marina in Bermuda with all needed facilities. In addition to the
Manor's own boats many privately owned speedboats, launches
and yachts use the cove for anchorage. The hotel has two eating
places of special interest, the main dining room, with a fine outlook,
called Le Monaco (which name works out all right if properly
accented on the antepenult, but sounds like Lemon Ahco if mis-
pronounced) and the Lobster Hole, on an open terrace. Here you





ARRIVAL AND HOLIDAY LODGING 23
may pick your own "lob" from a pool on the terrace and have him
cooked to order. A feature, for those who order wine, is a Viennese
Weinheber, a sort of decanter, upside down, from which the guest
draws wine directly into his glass by pressing the glass up against
a spigot. All rooms of the Manor, some in cottages only a few feet
above the cove level, are air-conditioned, with reverse cycle for
warmth if needed, and each is also equipped with a radio, this being
highly desirable in an island where you may hear the news and
various special features in your own language-almost. You will
like the clear, broad-a "original version" of your mother tongue,
only faintly Bermudianized, and at night you can bring in U.S.
stations by the dozen, as it seems. No other hotel in the Island, so
far as I can learn, is thus equipped. Mr. Sherwood doesn't hesitate
to play upon his name. We find Robin Hood here and there, and
of course Sherwood Forest, with a sign telling us to "Beware Low-
Flying Arrows." We'll forgive this, and when in tolerant mood,
we'll even forgive Mr. Sherwood for labeling the Men's Room "Ye
Merry Men." Sherwood Manor is both lovely and lively. Its water-
side landscaping is perfectly maintained, its dining room, with bar
at one side, sparkles nightly with good entertainment to match
its good food.
Waterloo House is Bermuda-as-it-ought-to-be. It is of the es-
sence. Located in the western area of Hamilton between The
Bermudiana and the Princess, it is handsomely placed on ground
that slopes down to the very edge of the harbor. It has as much
charm in its physical self, rambling from level to level, as in its
harborside stance.

SOME GUEST HOUSES
Fourways Inn is a lovely i8th-century home at a crossroads
point called Amen Corner in Paget, converted into a sort of English
Inn. Its bedrooms display a Navy touch, each being named for a
great sailor, Nelson, Rodney, Drake, Hawkins and so on. The main
dining room is the Cutty Sark Room, with a shiny copper door and
with a Royal Stuart tartan covering the walls. So good is the cuisine





24 BERMUDA
that Maurice Dreicer once awarded it The Golden Butter Knife
"in recognition of the fact that it serves superbly fine steaks which
can be cut with a similar butter knife." You may see the golden
implement, along with the inscription, on the wall of the hallway.
A much simpler luncheon room in Fourways is Peg Leg's Tavern,
where a help-yourself buffet meal may be enjoyed. The Peg Leg
Bar carries out the Navy theme with port and starboard ship lights.
Fourways is equipped with a swimming pool on the lawn which
is filled with fresh water, though rain is its only source of replenish-
ment. In this pool, says the management with pride, Clare Boothe
Luce learned to skin dive.
Loughlands is an old-world mansion of charming character in
Paget.
Salt Kettle House, small, informal, charming (three cottages),
has a waterfront that includes two coves on the harbor. With
tariffs a bit higher than the two places named just above, it is still
on a moderate level.
Sugar Cane Point is in distant Sandys Parish (Somerset), in-
formal, inexpensive, with a beach of its own in a pretty cove. All
bedrooms are air-conditioned.
White Sands is a guest house of good quality on a scenic bluff
of Paget's south shore. In a few steps its guests may descend to the
sands of Grape Bay.

SOME COTTAGE COLONIES
Ariel Sands, engagingly named for the sprite whom Prospero
sent to fetch dew from the "Bermoothes," is as appealing as its
name. Beautifully placed on a grassy slope of the south shore in
Devonshire Parish two and a half miles from Hamilton, its cottages,
each containing more than one suite, are dispersed at intervals,
with no sense of crowding. Ariel's sands are smooth and lovely
and a new pool is being built, to replace an older one, just above the
beach.
Cambridge Beaches, at the northern tip of Somerset, is Number
i on the Handy Reference Map and just about Number i in charm





ARRIVAL AND HOLIDAY LODGING 25
and individuality. The plural name is warranted, for there are five
beaches of substantial size and numerous smaller coves, each with
its crescent of fine sand, and from these the guest may select accord-
ing to taste. They are on both sides of a small north-stretching pen-
insula and thus face east or west. The main building, with its mel-
low Port-o'-Call Bar, dates from the mid-i6oo's but the thirty-two
comfortable pink cottages and the pink buttery are a bit newer.
The butteries of Bermuda, as I should have mentioned earlier, are
little square buildings, with steep, pointed roofs, in which pro-
visions were kept before the coming of electric refrigeration. Now
they are purely ornamental and in this they are wonderfully ef-
fective. Cambridge Beaches is a repeaters' favorite, and on plaques
you will see four rosters of Fivers, Tenners, Fifteeners and even
Twentyers, meaning persons who have visited here five, ten, fif-
teen or twenty years in succession. The lists read like a social blue-
book, with touches of Burke's Peerage. It is no wonder that guests
come again and again, for the place has a feerique quality hard to
put into words. Breakfasts are served individually on the cottage
terraces, dinners, in fine weather, on a large terrace just above a
beach, made gay with colored lights amid the palms. In bad weather
an inside dining room takes over. In a separate cottage called the
Mixing Bowl, afternoon tea is served, and on its terrace there is a
weekly Swizzle Party and twice weekly dancing. The cottages are
carefully maintained and at the present time every one is being
redone by the internationally known decorator Henry End. An
out about Cambridge Beaches for some is its remoteness from
Hamilton by the circuitous highway, being about eleven miles or
so distant, but to alleviate this there is the ferry wharf at Watford
Bridge, only a mile away, and Cambridge Beaches has its own boat
that makes the run to Hamilton and back daily as and if needed.
Whether by ship or plane, all arriving guests are met.
Horizons & Cottages is a distinguished mansion, with adjacent
cottages, located on a hill in Paget just above the Coral Beach Club.
It is under the same ownership and its guests, like those of New-
stead and Waterloo House, have all the privileges of the Club.





BERMUDA


Lantana Colony Club and the Ledgelets are adjoining colonies
under the same ownership on a knoll close to the Somerset Bridge,
which prides itself on being the smallest drawbridge in the world,
with an opening only eighteen inches wide for the masts of small
craft. Lantana is charming and smart, Ledgelets charming and
casual. At the Lantana porte cochire you'll find a surprising little
swan pond with a swan pair paddling about, and at a lower level,
on the edge of the Great Sound, you'll find a much larger pool
where you yourself may paddle about. There is a good beach here,
too, with an attractive snack bar for luncheon and cocktails. Lan-
tana is Bermuda's chief center for water-skiing and just off the
beach one sees a ski-leap that is used in the exciting water-ski shows
that are staged every Sunday throughout the summer. Lantana's
main Club House has a thrilling view through its picture windows.
Here is the main dining room, the Meridian Lounge, the Carousel
Bar and an outdoor terrace for dancing and entertainment. The
cottage accommodations are all air-conditioned, and each unit has
its kitchenette and its own private patio. A special offering of the
Lantana is complimentary ferry service to Hamilton, as often as
desired, a small thing in money but a friendly gesture. The ferry
wharf is at Somerset Bridge.
At Ledgelets the main building is called The Ledges and its "off-
spring," the Ledgelet cottages, bear such titles as Forbidden Fruit,
Arabian Nights and Sultan's Lair, which sound naughty but aren't,
though some of them have exotic furnishings to give flavor to their
names. The "bookcase" back of the bar in The Ledges turn out to
be a stack of private liquor lockers, for this place doesn't have a
license, so you have to bring your own. It was on the grounds of
Ledgelets that I first learned to know that horticultural specialty
of Bermuda, the locust-and-wild-honey plant, which has several
aliases, Tornelia, Hurricane Plant and, in Latin, Monstera Deliciosa.
Its fruit certainly is deliciosa. It's like a lot of kernels on a cob, but
with the soft consistency of a ripe banana and with a luscious taste
that my palate can't describe.
Palmetto Bay Cottage Colony, on a low bluff near Flatts Village





ARRIVAL AND HOLIDAY LODGING 27
and closely overlooking Harrington Sound, is a lively place ac-
centing water sports, especially skiing. The main building, fully
air-conditioned, includes a small lounge, a bar called The Yardarm,
an attractive dining room called the Wedgewood Room, and, out-
side, a barbecue supper terrace. A dozen or so guest cottages drape
themselves delightfully on the very edge of the bluff. There is a
private beach below, with a raft for diving into deep water.
Pink Beach Cottage Colony, on the south shore at the junction
of Smith's and Hamilton Parishes, is one of Bermuda's most ex-
pensively luxurious holiday resorts. Many of the cottages have two
double bedrooms, for family use, but others have only one. Pink
Beach is completely air-conditioned and all bedrooms are provided
with television sets. The cuisine has won a reputation for outstand-
ing excellence. If your budget nods assent to its high tariffs you
may enjoy there one of the finest vacations imaginable.
Pompano Club, far to the west at the edge of Southampton
Parish where it curves to the north, rises from a rugged Atlantic
headland. It has a pool and, for beach bathing, a small cove well
down below. The Pompano has special appeal for fishermen, who
may range all the way from softies in a glass-bottom boat over the
reef to bolder deep-sea enthusiasts.
The Reefs Beach Club, on Southampton Parish's curving south
shore not far from the big Carlton Beach Hotel, is on the de luxe
side, hence not for the budgeteer. It is a cabana colony of outstand-
ing quality with a quality beach of great beauty. Among its social
attractions are the Ocean Terrace and the Club House, both of
which feature informal dancing on a level of "casual elegance," to
use its own promotional phrase.

PRIVATE CLUBS
There are three clubs which now, in theory and generally in
practice, are available to nonmembers only on specific invitation,
Coral Beach & Tennis Club; Mid-Ocean Golf Club; and Po-
mander Gate Club and Cottages.
Coral Beach Club, handsomely placed on a cliff and beach on the





BERMUDA


Atlantic side of Paget, is one of Bermuda's most exclusive (and
expensive) cottage colonies. As I have said in connection with
Newstead, Coral Beach is a genuine private club and one may lodge
here only if introduced by a member, but if application is made
through its U.S. representative, Robert F. Warner, Inc., 630 Fifth
Avenue, New York City, the chances of securing a booking are
reasonably bright. The club is on several levels, from the main
building, with its clifftop restaurant and bathing-suit terrace, to the
various cottages, a little way down, and so to the beach itself. All
the levels are full of improbable turns and nooks and all are
beautiful.
Mid-Ocean Club, mentioned earlier in connection with its near-
ness to Castle Harbour, is an exclusive membership club mightily
concerned with golf, its course being the most famous and the
longest. Mid-Ocean life is the quintessence of well-heeled, sport-
loving relaxation. Breakfast and dinner are served in a dining room
"up one flight from golf," but luncheon, in sports clothes or bathing
suit, is served on the links-edge terrace. In 1953, this club had a
historic highlight when Churchill, Eisenhower and France's Pre-
mier Laniel met here for a conference, but that is not the only time
that Eisenhower has visited Bermuda. In 1957, he came again, to
confer with Prime Minister Macmillan. The Mid-Ocean is gen-
erally considered the most exclusive and hard-to-penetrate of the
private clubs, but some say its bark is worse than its bite. Its U.S.
representative is the William P. Wolfe Organization, 500 Fifth
Avenue, New York City.
Pomander Gate Club is in a lovely, secluded location on the edge
of Red Hole, a bay within Hamilton Harbour at its inner end.
Eight acres of lawn and gardens add much to its appeal. This is
not in the luxury bracket of the clubs mentioned above but it is a
place of quality and character.
Before leaving the subject of accommodations I should state
that there is an organization called Bermuda Cottages that has in-
dividual housekeeping cottages, with maid service, to rent by the
day in various parts of Paget and Warwick Parishes, prominent




SIGHT-SEEING MADE EASY 29
in the picture being Marley Beach and Mermaid Beach, both on
Warwick's south shore. The Bermuda Plan (lodging and breakfast)
is basic, but this may be altered at will to the Modified American
Plan by adding a few dollars (at present $5.00) or reduced to
European Plan (without breakfast) by subtracting $I.oo. For in-
formation one may address Bermuda Cottages, Warwick, Bermuda.


Sight-seeing Made Easy
Bermuda's visitors are like the lilies of her field, though not
always so handsomely arrayed. Their chief similarity-let's face
it-is a highly developed talent for laziness. They like to bask in
the sun. They like to bend before the breeze. And if their stems
creak a bit at first it's only due to certain bad habits at home, like
excessive toiling and spinning and gathering into barns. A few days
spent in following the lilies' example will cure all that, and the
charm of the Island will add zest to the cure. By that time they
may find themselves eager to see the varied and fascinating sights
that await them in Bermuda. To offer the explanatory map service
given earlier for lodging places, this book begs now to offer the
same service for sights, being those items that appear in small
squares on the legend beneath the Handy Reference Map. As in
the other case these are set forth in numerical sequence, to enable
the reader to find, right off, the identity of the sight in any such
numbered square.
BERMUDA SIGHTS BY NUMBER ON THE HANDY REFERENCE MAP (SQUARES)
2. Springfield Library 51. Tulo Valley Nursery
5. Fort Scaur 57. Ducking Stool
9. Somerset Bridge 58. Government House
13. Gibb's Hill Lighthouse 67. Bermuda Historical Society
14. Southampton Golf & Beach Museum
Club 68. Perot Post Office
15. Riddell's Bay Golf Course 69. Visitors' Service Bureau-Ham-
21. Bermudiana Beach Club ilton
40. Bermuda Beach Club 71. City Hall & Art Gallery
47. Hospital 72. Tennis Stadium
48. Botanical Gardens 75. Cathedral




BERMUDA

BERMUDA SIGHTS BY NUMBER ON THE HANDY REFERENCE MAP (SQUARES)


77. Sessions House
78. Cenotaph
80. Queen's Park Golf Course
81. Old Devonshire Church
82. Palm Grove Gardens
84. Verdmont
86. Aquarium, Museum,
(Tucker Treasure)
90. Spanish Rock
93. Devil's Hole
94. Breakers Beach Club
96. Race Track
97. Earl Bailey Art Gallery
98. Perfume Factory
99. Crystal Cave


ioo. Leamington Cave
103. Natural Arches
105. Fort St. Catherine
o16. Somers Garden
107. Old State House
1o8. Gunpowder Cavern
Zoo 109. St. George Historical Society
11o. St. Peter's Church
I I. Confederate Museum
x2i. Tucker House
113. Carriage Museum
114. Visitors' Bureau-St. George
115. Gates Fort
116. St. David's Lighthouse


Sight-seeing can be achieved very inexpensively by means of
public bus tours, supplemented by assorted ferry trips, by con-
ducted power-yacht and speedboat tours and, of course, by bike
pedaling, the traditional means of locomotion. If this last looks
like too much work on the up-and-down roads you may rent one
of the motorized vehicles I have mentioned, but in any case keep in
mind that traffic goes to the left as in England, and by law it must
go slowly.
Planned tours-one cannot call them canned amid Bermuda's
stimulating scenes-are numerous on land, on sea and in the air.
A leading agency selling tours of all sorts is Penboss Associates,
with office on Front Street at the corner of Parliament Street. This
is, in fact, a complete travel agency, a member of the American
Society of Travel Agents, and can sell any kind of travel from a
local bus tour to a round-the-world cruise. The organization
operates numerous coach and taxi tours, two popular ones being
to St. George, covering all the eastern end of the Island, and to
Somerset and the western part of the Island, lunch at places of
special character being included in both cases. The Penboss office
stresses, also, novel tele-tours, which are do-it-yourself walking
tours of Hamilton and St. George and, as a third offering, a bicycle
tour of virtually the whole island, a guide unit, hardly bigger than





SIGHT-SEEING MADE EASY 31
a pack of cigarettes, held in one's hand. The guide unit, to be
rented for a small fee, contains a built-in tape recorder which gives
a running narrative of what one is seeing. The tele-tourist sets his
own pace, for he can shut off the narrator at any point without
hurting its feelings in order to gaze more leisurely at anything
that catches his attention.
A specialist in sea cruises is American Sightseeing, Inc., operated
by Kitson and Company, found in upstairs offices on Reid Street
just off Queen Street. Conducted Harbor-and-Sound Cruises on
the Duchess, the Maria or the Priscilla, starting from Albouy's
Point behind the Bank of Bermuda, are made by this company
daily except Sunday, the fare including a barbecue lunch on Hawk-
ins Island and, on board on the way back to Hamilton, a rollicking
swizzle party with calypso entertainment. The same company
offers a Sea Garden Cruise morning and afternoon to see marine
life through a glass-bottom boat and a gay Moonlight Cruise once
a week, this, like the harbor-and-sound cruise, jollified by a swiz-
zle party and calypso.
For afternoon trips only there is a daily Chris-Craft Tour, start-
ing at 2 o'clock from a dock in front of the Bermudiana Hotel.
Bill Williams' Waterski School and Marine Service, a versatile outfit
offering almost every type of water sport, operates this tour.
Another specialist is Hal White, who has a 36-foot cutter, the
Selina King, which he offers for charter on half-day, whole-day,
or weeklong cruises conducted by himself, even to the cooking.
Sailing cruises and catamaran cruises are available, as are sail-it-
yourself boats, especially of the Snipe class, for Bermudians go in
for sailing in a big way, with races in the Great Sound every
Thursday and Saturday. Of course there are daily fishing trips as
well, though only in the milder months, from April to October.
For fishing on your own from a charter boat consult The Bermuda
Fishing Information Bureau at 50 Front Street, this being under
the direction of the Trade Development Board.
Closeup fish-watching may be enjoyed through a diving helmet,
so if you aspire to that you may wish to consult Bronson Hartley,





32 BERMUDA
who, valiantly aided by his wife Harriet, has won wide acclaim as
a specialist in undersea sight-seeing. He has headquarters on Flatts
Inlet and uses the Coral Island Club's dock for take off, but he is
here in summer only, from June ist to October i5th. For the other
months he transfers to Nassau, which see under the Bahamas sec-
tion. Such subaqueous activities as snorkeling and skin diving he
leaves entirely to others, especially to a pair called Park and Jeanne
Breck, who operate a diving school at Gibbet Beach, near Flatts,
devoting all of his energies to his popular specialty, sea-bottom
strolling, in which his cruise is unique. He calls it the Hartley
Helmet Diving Cruise and explains that anybody from three to
nintey-three may make the cruise safely. The party, wearing bath-
ing suits and sneakers, starts from the dock in his 53-foot motor
sailer, the Carioca, for the coral reefs. On arrival there, the guests
don big helmets with a window in front, and descend in pairs,
like Noah's gentry entering the Arc, to the bottom, in water nine
or ten feet deep, under the guidance of "Captain Bronny" for a
twenty-minute stroll. Then another two are taken down and so on,
ten persons in all being the maximum number taken on the cruise.
The nine pounds of air pressure coming through the air hoses
makes breathing easy and natural and keeps the helmet watertight.
Those who wear glasses or contact lenses need not remove them,
for they stroll the sea gardens with as much confidence as if making
a garden tour on land, and if they don't know how to swim it
matters not a bit. Captain Bronny leads his successive twosomes
here and there making signs with his fingers to indicate interesting
coral or plant life or varicolored fishes, and he even locates.a trained
blue anglefish named Helen and has her swim through a hoop in
circles. She loves it, and gets an especially luscious clam by way of
reward for her performance. Another undersea feature that he
demonstrates is sponges inhaling and exhaling water. There's a lot
more to it but the chief thing, after all, is merely walking at will
on the bottom of the sea. When all have had their turn Bronny's
wife, who is the cruise hostess, serves hot chocolate all around. The
entire Helmet Diving Cruise takes about three and a half hours.





SIGHT-SEEING MADE EASY 33
Before leaving the subject of sea excursions let's come to the
surface and consider further the humble but highly enjoyable
workaday ferries. There are two quite different routes, both start-
ing from the same wharf beside the Visitors' Service Bureau in
Hamilton, and their services, important to understand, are as
follows:
The Paget-Warwick Ferry takes you to five halts in those two
parishes, Lower Ferry, Hodsdon's Landing (near Newstead), Salt
Kettle (a wonderfully pleasant little peninsula worth a stopover),
Darrell's Wharf (near Hotel Inverurie) and Belmont (near the
Belmont Golf and Country Club). Some trips skip some of the
halts except on Sundays, when every ferry stops everywhere.
The Somerset Ferry takes you directly to Somerset Bridge and
then to Cavello Bay, Watford Bridge and, on some trips, to Ireland
Island, all in Somerset, the last named halt being almost at the
extreme tip. Timetables with both routes mapped and illustrated
and with a few restaurant and shopping hints, are procurable at
the Hamilton ferry house. I should add, however, and this is said
"more in sorrow than in anger," that this timetable is a most con-
fusing document, at least on first examination. The ferries make
their rounds in two directions, clockwise and counterclockwise,
but both courses are set forth on the same much-condensed time-
table, so the only way to tell which course any given ferry takes is
to note the sequence of time at the various halts, indicating whether
your vision is to move downward or upward. Furthermore the
timetable takes you from Hamilton but never takes you back
except in the Somerset course, which is normally set forth, out
around and back. For the Paget-Warwick course you merely
assume that from Belmont or Lower Ferry or Salt Kettle or Dar-
rell's Wharf or whatever is the last-in-time halt of that trip it will
take you back, in whatever time is needed for the harbor crossing.
A little more paper, even at the cost of omitting some of the
advertisements, could make all this crystal clear to the tourists, who
are, after all, a substantial part of the clientele. Perhaps, some day,
some person in authority will read my comment and even ponder




34 BERMUDA
it. Conceivably this hypothetical personage may even authorize a
change. Who knows?
For motor tours taken by couples or small groups miniature cars
are used, some "with a fringe on top," like the horse-drawn surreys,
a few of which are still available for hire. The cars are almost as
lazily delightful as the horse-drawn vehicles for they also go
slowly, so you can see all. This is not solely out of thoughtfulness
for you but because there's a Bermuda-wide twenty-mile speed
limit which is strictly enforced. A driver who forgets himself and
steps up his speed to a dizzy thirty mph can lose his license for six
months. He can be fined or jailed, also, if he keeps a car on the road
that is over five years old, for Bermuda laws will not tolerate
broken-down jalopies.
If, as against planned tours, a hired car is desired, this can easily
be arranged through your hotel or guest house or, if any problem
arises, through the Visitors' Service Bureau in Hamilton or in St.
George. This organization will give you full information and
folders, and, although its primary function is only as an informant,
it can at least advise you in the matter of finding a good driver-
guide, but don't assume, as I did, that a drive-yourself car can be
had, for that is quite impossible until you have been on the Island
for at least thirty days or can prove beyond a doubt that you will
stay at least sixty days. Driver-guides are numerous in Bermuda
and of course they vary a lot in knowledge, though they are all
reasonably competent or they could not win and display on their
cars the blue flag bearing the words Qualified Tour Guide.-
Tours in the air, finally to reach this element, are made by a
small but respected company called Bermuda Airlines. The stand-
ard tour, by seaplane, lasts about half an hour and provides a thrill-
ing plane's eye spectacle that includes even glimpses of the coral
sea gardens. The same company offers air taxi service by seaplane
to and from the airport provided the plane is booked by a minimum
of four persons.
Hamilton sights present themselves virtually without guidance.
Walk up Queen Street, leading from the Visitors' Service Bureau





SIGHT-SEEING MADE EASY 35
and the ferry wharf and you will see, on the left, a lovely old
building called Par-la-Ville, that houses both the Public Library
and the Bermuda Historical Society Museum, one of the items in
the museum being a copy of a letter in which George Washington
graciously thanked Bermudians for the gunpowder that had, in
actual fact, been stolen from them. This building was the private
home of Bermuda's first postmaster, W. B. Perot, who made the
Island's first postage stamps by writing his name across the Hamil-
ton post marks, signing each one by hand. That was a striking mid-
i9th-century example of do-it-yourself enterprise. Authentic
"Perots," as these first stamps are called, command fantastic prices
from collectors, one having actually been sold in London in 1962
for o0,000o, which is $28,ooo. For the convenience of the public,
there is now a small branch "Perot post office," adjacent to the
Library-Museum, supplementing the main post office in a fine old
colonial building at the corner of Reid and Parliament streets. The
branch was Perot's original post office, which has been restored,
keeping its colonial spirit and design. In addition to her regular
duties, its postmistress sells packets of unused Bermuda stamps for
collectors. Be sure to admire the ioo-year-old rubber tree, planted
by Perot in front of his home. It is said that roots from this tree
have been dredged out of Hamilton Harbour!
Par-la-Ville Gardens, directly back of the Perot post office, are
a colorful treat for the eyes of those who stroll its paths. In the
upper left corer is a Moon Gate, a decorative feature seen in many
parts of the Island.
The City Hall is a handsome white building on Church Street
topped by a weather vane representing the Sea Venture, which
also activates a wind dial on the outside of the tower. Facing the
building is an ornamental fountain, illuminated at night. The in-
terior, in addition to the City Hall wing, houses an Art Gallery
sponsored by the Bermuda Society of Arts and a fine auditorium,
in which, from time to time, excellent concerts are given. Much
woodwork in cedar graces the large entrance hall.
The Anglican Cathedral of the Most Holy Trinity, built in 1894,





36 BERMUDA
is an imposing church open always to the public, and, for "one
touch of politics," you'll want, surely, to attend a meeting of the
House of Assembly, the oldest Parliament in the world except
those in England and Iceland, in the government building called
Sessions House, with the Jubilee Clock on the tower, celebrating
Queen Victoria's Golden Jubilee, which also contains the Supreme
Court. Anyone may enter the section of the House reserved for
spectators to watch and hear the debating, modeled, of course, on
British procedures. The House of Assembly is composed of thirty-
six members, four from each of the nine parishes, and the Speaker
wears a wig and robe, as do the Chief Justice and barristers in the
Court. I was interested to hear one of the members of the House
refer several times to "our country," meaning, you may be very
sure, Bermuda, not Britain. One of the worst faux pas an American
can make in speaking to Bermudians is to refer to "you British."
Just below Sessions House, in the parklike block between Reid
and Front streets, is the Colonial Secretariat with the Council
Chamber, somewhat equivalent to the House of Lords, in which
there is a Governor's Throne of cedar dated 1642. Below that, on
Front Street, is the Cenotaph, Bermuda's war memorial. Govern-
ment House, on Mount Langton, is north of the city near Black
Watch Pass, a deep-cut road which leads to the north shore. It is
said that the wife of one of the governors raised Bermuda's first
Easter lilies in the grounds of Government House.
The sights customarily shown on the bus tour of the Island's
eastern portions are full of interest. They include a fascinating
tripleton in Flatts consisting of the Aquarium, a small Zoo and,
within a small Museum of Natural History, the celebrated Wreck
Collection containing the salvage treasures brought up from sunken
galleons by Teddy Tucker, a dedicated Bermudian driver. This
last is of such historical interest that it will be further discussed at
the end of this section, following the comment on historic St.
George. As for the Aquarium, there is nothing in nature more
beguiling than polychromatic tropical fishes. Note, for instance,
the blue-eyed queen triggerfish, who uses for makeup a vivid pur-





SIGHT-SEEING MADE EASY 37
pie lipstick, with a yellow line beneath the "chin." Note the rain-
bow parrot fish who puts a lavish spread of turquoise blue on her
lids, the eyes having jet black irises surrounded by bright yellow
"whites." Her mouth is absurdly like a parrot's beak. Note the
lovely angelfish, with trailing "veils," the goggle-eyed jack, whose
eyes protrude quite outside his face, the red hind, the highly
improbable cowfish and, not to be missed, the graceful sea horses.
The "mare," you know, lays her eggs in hubby's pouch and then
forgets the whole business of procreation. Father has to carry the
burden of pregnancy until, finally, he gives birth, in a vast effort,
to several hundred infinitestimal colts and fillies.
Leaving Flatts, usually to the reluctance of its passengers, the bus
continues to the Devil's Hole, a sort of natural aquarium where
guests have fun fishing for carp with a hookless line alluringly
baited (Annette Kellerman-remember?-did a mermaid film in
this blue pool); a visit to one of the eerie caves (the Leamington
or the Crystal) of stalactites and stalagmites, admiring their fan-
tastic formations built by nature in millions of years; and a visit
to the Lili Perfume Factory, Bermuda's only factory except for a
new one for cedar furniture in Devonshire and a few plants in the
free port area of the Dockyard in remote Ireland Island. In the
Lili Factory the processes of making perfume from Island flowers
are shown and explained. Surrounding the factory are extensive
company gardens open to visitors, containing 147 varieties of flow-
ering plants from all over the subtropical world, and they are all
numbered, corresponding to numbers on a printed list, so that we
may know what we're looking at.
The chief perfume flowers, in addition to the obvious Easter
lilies, are jasmines, oleanders, sweet peas and, above all, passion
flowers. The Bermuda cedar also produces an oil essence that bases
a wonderfully masculine shaving lotion. The magenta-and-white
passion flowers yield a perfume that is exceptionally difficult to
produce because of the delicacy of the flowers. The flower's name
refers, of course, to Christ's passion. The corolla forms a perfect
crown (of "thorns") and from it grow three stamens that the pious





38 BERMUDA
imagination sees as the spikes that nailed Him to the cross. A little
printed story is given out in the salesroom at the end of the tour.
Flowers, both wild ones and those sedulously cultivated, are an
outstanding glory of Bermuda. Everywhere we ride or walk we see
them, the ones named above, plus white and yellow freesias, chrys-
anthemums, marigolds, these ranging in hue from canary yellow to
old gold, blue morning-glories and still bluer plumbago, hibiscus
hedges in several colors (but oleander hedges are much more
numerous), and, of course, bougainvillea in riotous red, Tyrian
purple and almost any shade that shouts. There's nothing pastel-
tinted about bougainvillea, yet, nature works it in smartly with
the pastel-tinted houses.
Another product made in Bermuda, though apparently not in
a factory, is Royall Lyme, which comes in toilet lotion and scented
soap, plus, for men, Bermuda Spyce for after-shave lotion, with
fragrance from allspice.
Some glamour-sights may be missed on a fixed tour, sights such
as Palm Grove, a private property which the owner kindly opens
to the touring public. Its gardened acres are of great appeal, the
most photographed feature being a map of Bermuda done in grass
areas that rise an inch or two from a quadrilateral pool of clear
water. Another sight too often neglected is a colonial house called
Verdmont, on Collector's Hill in Smith's Parish. Its furnishings and
impressive old fireplaces are as fine as its stimulating outlook over
the south shore, and among its many special features is a cedar
staircase that would alone warrant a visit. The home has been
completely restored by the Bermuda Historical Monuments Trust.
Near the capital are the superb Botanical Gardens (with an Agri-
culture Station) at the junction of Point Finger Road and South
Road in Paget. If you have a guide that knows trees and plants as
well as two I have been lucky enough to have, you may revel for
hours amid the Gardens' splendors and exotic specialties. In any
case, you will note the grand Indian laurels, the walking rubber
trees, the Queensland umbrella tree with long, dark red tassels,
the monkey puzzle trees, whose sharp thorns are enough to puzzle





SIGHT-SEEING MADE EASY 39
the sharpest-witted monkey, and the casuarinas, whose local nick-
name is whistling pine, and maybe your driver will point out
Bermuda's only two native trees, aside from the sadly decimated
red cedar, namely the palmetto berry palm and the Bermuda olive
wood tree.
An easy way to see and enjoy the Island's flowers, trees and
houses at the same time is to take one of the weekly Homes and
Gardens Tours sponsored by the Garden Club of Bermuda. No
lovelier homes, or settings for them, can be imagined than these
private dwelling of the FFB, meaning First Families of Bermuda.
I have mentioned the frequent existence of a buttery, but that is
only one Bermudian specialty. You'll note, and love, the tray
ceilings, shaped like inverted serving trays to give added airiness
in the hot months, and the three levels of fireplaces, ankle, knee
and waist. The lower ones were designed for heating, the waist-
high ones for cooking so the fireplace-cook would not have to
bend down. Every house in Bermuda, whether of the well-to-do
gentry or the humblest property owner, is proud to bear a name,
not a street number.
A Homes-and-Garden tour that I once took on an early spring
day brought me to estates named Sleepy Hollow, Watch Hill,
Westwaters and Heron's Nest. All were beautiful and tasteful,
yet no one of them resembled any other.
Westward touring through the parishes of Warwick and South-
ampton has fewer special sights to see but perhaps even greater
scenic beauty. Don't overlook, for one thing, Riddell's Bay, which
has a public Golf and Country Club with glamorous views from
every green and fairway. Continuing in Southampton Parish one
comes within range of Gibb's Hill Lighthouse, which warrants a
halt for its immense view. The hill is 245 feet high and the light-
house adds another 134 feet, for a total of 379, which is positively
Alpine for Bermuda. Actually though, the hill is not quite the
highest on the Island, for that honor goes to Town Hill, which is
in Smith's Parish near Flatts.
Southampton Parish makes a wide arc west and then north,





40 BERMUDA
finally reaching the climactic fishhook of Somerset. The ride is
a crescendo of sheer beauty, for Somerset is lovely in every nook
and cove and rolling meadow, not to mention the white-roofed
homes. One pleasant way to see this portion of the Island is by
ordinary ferry, and this route, unlike the Paget-Warwick route,
involves no timetable headaches. The printed schedule shows the
whole circular trip, with a map inset.
Before leaving the subject of Somerset I should mention that
pleasant though this ferry ride is you don't begin to get as much
sight-seeing or abundance of detail as you do on the Chris-Craft
tour, mentioned earlier, and some of the other excursions. The
Chris-Craft skipper takes you into every little cove and close to
many of the islands, all the while keeping up a running commen-
tary about what you're seeing. He even goes through the channel
under Somerset Bridge to show you Cathedral Rocks, an odd coral
formation, then way around Ireland Island and to the outside of
Pembroke Parish peninsula to show the fantastic rocks and caves of
Spanish Point, and, as a final item seen on the way back to
Hamilton, to an inlet called Fairylands Creek, surrounded on all
sides by beautiful homes.
Had we undertaken our sight-seeing in historical sequence rather
than practical tourist sequence we would certainly have started
where Bermuda's history started, in St. George, the first capital,
which lends itself perfectly to its role, for it is authentically quaint,
which means, in lexicography, "pleasingly odd and antique," and
it is a perfect subject for the camera fiend.
St. George, now officially a "Historical Monument" in its en-
tirety, was founded in i612 and served as capital until 1815, when
Hamilton took over. So deeply respected is its special character
that no new construction or alteration of a building may be under-
taken without the sanction of the Bermuda Historical Monuments
Trust. Its most conspicuous and most photographed sight is St.
Peter's Church, the oldest Anglican church in continuous use in
the Western Hemisphere. Its predecessor, founded on the same
site, was erected in 1619 and served the following year as the





SIGHT-SEEING MADE EASY


meeting place of the Bermuda Parliament. The present church was
built in 1713. White and gracious, with doors wide open, it stands
at the top of a steep and very broad flight of stairs leading from
Duke of York Street, and few passers-by can resist its invitation.
The interior is as pleasing as the exterior, for there is much old
cedar in it, including a large panel back of the altar bearing the
Lord's Prayer, the Ten Commandments and the Creed. The altar
itself, made in 1624, is a legacy from the earlier church, as is the
interesting three-decker pulpit, and also the font. At the left as
one enters the church is the gallery where the slaves sat, worship-
ping God as well as such human chattels could. A guide shows
visitors other special treasures of the church, such as the costly
communion silver given by King William III, a testimonial of the
visit to St. Peter's of Queen Elizabeth and Prince Philip, with their
clear signatures, and various ancient memorial tablets of marble,
with inscriptions in florid prose. A part of one of these, to "Alured
Popple Esquire, Governor, Died November 17, 1744" reads as
follows:
"The Gay and Polite were charmed with the unaffected Ele-
gance and amiable Simplicity of his manners and ALL were chear'd
by his Hospitality and diffusive Benevolence which steadily flowed
and undisturbed from the Heart. To praise according to his Merit
the deceased would be but too sensible a reproach to the living,
and to enumerate the many rare Virtues which shone united in the
Governor of that little Spot were to tell how many great Talents
and excellent Endowments are wanting in Some whom the ca-
priciousness of Fortune exposes in a more evaluated and conspic-
uous Station," etc., etc.
This fabulous man should surely have been named Paragon
Popple!
Directly opposite St. Peter's is a historic building, the old Globe
Hotel which, prior to its period of use as a hotel, was the official
Bermuda headquarters of the Confederacy during the Civil War.
Since 1959, it has housed a small Confederate Museum. St. George,
as a community, was up to its civic neck ferrying British goods to





42 BERMUDA
the Confederacy through the Union blockade, a traffic that
brought Bermuda more wealth than it had ever known. Says a
local folder, "It was the center for blockade runners, spies and
secessionists. When the South was finally defeated Bermuda's entire
economy collapsed."
In 1959, simultaneously with the forming of the little museum,
a former restaurant and tearoom on the building's second floor
reopened for business. Its walls are now full of "Rebel" prints,
including one of the famous Alabama, Captain Raphael Semmes,
which, under an English flag, attacked and captured over sixty
vessels during the war. This held special interest for me, since
Captain Semmes was a distant relative, several generations back, of
this damyankee author.
Between the old Globe Hotel and the big 20th-century St.
George Hotel is a street called Old Maid's Lane that leads up to
Rose Hill, a natural for all who enjoy a good romance, happy or
sad. On this hill, at the beginning of the i9th century, lived Hestor
Louisa Tucker, wife of William Tucker. Next door, on Old Maid's
Lane, lived Tom Moore, then a young man of twenty-five with a
job as Registrar to the Court Admiralty, and Tom fell in love with
Hestor. He put his love on paper in the form of Odes to Nea, his
tender name for Hestor, but husband William was, shall we say,
annoyed! He didn't like Tom and he didn't like his verses and
never would he allow either in his home. Historians of romance
have never quite decided whether Tom was deeply in love with
Nea or was merely exercising his muse. In any case, the man who
was to become world-famous as the author of deathless Irish Mel-
odies set to music by Sir John Stevenson ("The Harp That Once
Through Tara's Halls," "Believe Me, If All Those Endearing
Young Charms," etc.) became, and remains, a romantic fixture of
Bermuda.
On Water Street, near the foot of Old Maid's Lane, is the Tucker
House, where Henry Tucker, Colonial Secretary and President
of the Council, lived from 1770 to i808. It is a museum now, full of
lovely old cedar and mahogany furniture. A curious bibelot in the




SIGHT-SEEING MADE EASY 43
hallway is a cedar head of Sam Johnson with a natural burl for his
wig.
Two blocks from the Tucker House, or just around the corner
from St. Peter's and the old Globe, is King's Square, which is
embellished with pillory and stocks for the edification of tourists,
who are permitted to anchor themselves in these contraptions to
be photographed. On this broad square is the Visitors' Service
Bureau, and next to it the Town Hall, with cedar furnishings and
the portraits of the local mayors from the year 1797. The square
makes a pleasant picture, extending on the south side to a bridge
leading to Ordnance Island. Very near this bridge are two vener-
able buildings, the White Horse Tavern and Bridge House, the
latter having been once occupied by our friend Alured Popple.
As for the White Horse Tavern, I should here emphasize that this
serves today as an excellent restaurant. It has been renewed and
redecorated, and it maintains a first-rate cuisine. A feature is its
big lobster tank, from which you may select your own meal, and
all of its marine dishes, especially rockfish, are mouth-watering.
From the opposite side of the square, short walks lead to several
places of historical interest, the nearest one being the Old State
House, a heavy limestone building constructed in 1619-20 and said
to have been mortared with turtle oil and lime, which must have
been effective since this is Bermuda's oldest building. It is now
leased by the government to the St. George Lodge of the Free-
masons, who are obligated, by the terms of the lease, to pay an
annual rent of one peppercorn. This is done with great ceremony
on the Wednesday nearest April 23rd, which is St. George's Day.
The treasurer of the Lodge passes over the rent to the governor
and in token of ownership Her Majesty's Executive Council in
Bermuda holds its weekly meeting here, just this once, instead of
in the usual place, the Council Chamber in Hamilton.
A bit to the north of the State House is Somers Garden, a lovely
little park with "gray-masted" royal palms on a green lawn. Here
lies buried the heart of Admiral Sir George Somers, interred by
his nephew in 161o. His body was taken to England, reportedly




44 BERMUDA
embalmed for the voyage in a barrel of rum.
A bit west and north of Somers Garden, at the corner of Duke
of Kent Street and Featherbed Alley, is the Historical Society
Museum, containing many alluring items of olden times, including
a handmade bathtub of cedar wood, a collection of prints and cu-
rious paintings and a photostat copy of a letter from George
Washington dated September 6, 1775. In this letter Washington
proposes that, in exchange for provisions sorely needed by the
Colony, Bermuda send him the gunpowder stored in the English
arsenal in St. George. There's a remarkable, and true, story in
connection with this, for actually the powder had been stolen and
sent to America more than three weeks earlier in what must have
been one of the most fantastically bold ventures of all time. On
the night of August 14, some forty bold seamen, aided by "persons
unknown" resident in Bermuda, entered the magazine, which was
unguarded, rolled out no less than a hundred kegs of powder past
what is now the Rectory but was then a wing of the Government
House, across the Governor's Park and so to Tobacco Bay on the
north shore, where it was loaded onto small boats and taken to a
ship that lay at anchor. St. George folk, including the governor,
must have slept soundly, for no one heard anything at all. When
the governor did hear-of the theft-he was furious and sought
by every means to catch the offenders, but he never did and their
names have never become known. A receipted invoice for the
powder is said to be in the British Museum, and the American
Continental Congress was so pleased with the "friendly .coopera-
tion" of the Bermudians that it passed a resolution authorizing the
shipment of large quantities of flour, corn, rice, peas, beef and
pork. The so-called Gunpowder Cavern on Retreat Hill is not the
arsenal from which the powder was taken but was excavated a few
years later. It has never been used for the storage of powder, but
during World War II it was used as a cache for provisions. Today,
it is a sort of spooky restaurant and tearoom, but cheerful enough
at night when colored lights and good dance music enliven it.
There are two more historic sights of St. George that should not





SIGHT-SEEING MADE EASY 45
be missed, namely Gates Fort and Fort St. Catherine, between
which strongholds, on Barry Road, bordering the sea, is Buildings
Bay, where the Deliverance and the Patience were built. It is off
this part of Bermuda's shoreline that the big, biennial Bermuda Race
from Newport to St. George finishes, a major event in the world
of blue-water yachting. Gates Fort is named for Sir Thomas Gates,
the deputy governor (of Virginia) who was shipwrecked on the
Sea Venture, probably only a mile or so from this point. A scenic
surprise is the impressive, man-made Town Cut here, through
which ships can enter the harbor of St. George. Fort St. Catherine,
built in 1612-I3, is a grand sight in itself, and within it is a series
of dioramas, being clay figures seen against painted backdrops,
depicting the most famous and dramatic incidents of Bermudian
history, including, of course, vivid scenes of the "Sea Venture
Wreck" and of "the Great Gunpowder Scandal."
St. George Town and Parish all but monopolize the historic
sights of Bermuda, but in Flatts one should certainly visit the
earlier mentioned Wreck Collection in the museum adjacent to the
Aquarium. It is full of marine items and artifacts and even some
very precious items of jewelry, gold ingots, gold bars, gold and
pearl buttons, gold pieces of eight and a truly fabulous gold cross
of Peru set with seven large Colombian emeralds, the whole cross
valued by expert appraisers at $75,000. These and other jewels and
gold pieces constitute the so-called Tucker Treasure, once called
by LIFE "the greatest find of its kind made in this century." Two
Bermudians named Edward (Teddy) Tucker and Robert Canton
discovered it in 1956 while doing salvage work on a Spanish ship,
the San Pedro that was lost on Bermuda's north reefs in 1594, one
of several hundred, possibly even a thousand, sunken wrecks
known to lie on the reefs and rocks of Bermudian waters.
"And what about the Sea Venture?" you ask, and it's a good
question. In 1958, a diver from Virginia named Edmund Downing,
who had been scouting off St. George's shores for a long time in
the effort to locate the remains of that famous vessel, much of
which, you remember, had been taken to build the Deliverance





BERMUDA


and the Patience, finally found what looked from every angle to
be the very ship. Aided by Teddy Tucker, he brought up cannons,
ordance, pieces of the ship's ribs and inner sheathing, some pottery
and various items of iron. Everything tallied with the known facts
about the vessel. Various ship experts, historians and archivists,
including Dr. Mendell Peterson of the Smithsonian Institution,
studied all these finds and became convinced that the Sea Venture
had indeed been found, but some respected experts still nourish
doubts. Perhaps, in the fulness of time, the question may be
definitely resolved.


Roving for Restaurants, Shops, Night Life
Restaurants of Bermuda, by which I mean separate restaurants
not connected with hotels, are fairly numerous and in several cases
very good indeed. They have glamorous settings in different parts
of the Island and hunting them up adds spice to the chase. Peg Leg's
Tavern has been already mentioned as a sort of appurtenance to
Fourway Inn, and the Gunpowder Tavern came into the picture
in connection with sight-seeing tours, so these need not be further
covered.
Let's take a taste, first, of some top restaurants of Hamilton.
The Penthouse Club, on Front Street, two flights up from the
street and one flight above the ever-popular Longtail Bar, under
the same management, is an air-conditioned place rated on the top
rank of Island restaurants. Its aqua-tinted walls, gold-trimmed,
give it a cheerful glow to enhance its fine fare. There is an open
terrace well above Front Street, from which one may watch the
holiday world go by.
The Ace of Clubs, formerly La Caravelle, is at the corner of
Front and Parliament streets, entered from the latter. A sm6rgas-
bord lunch, popular with visitors and residents alike, is served from
noon to 3 o'clock and the "groaning table" is offered on Saturday
nights. For dinner there is an excellent a la carte menu. Drinks at
the Ace of Clubs bar cost only 60 cents from 3 P.M. on. This





ROVING FOR RESTAURANTS, SHOPS, NIGHT LIFE 47
restaurant is not air-conditioned, but large ceiling fans keep the air
stirring.
The Twenty-One Club, a restaurant and bar on Front Street,
calls its offerings "casual dining in a nautical atmosphere," the cas-
ualness consisting chiefly of sandwich luncheons.
The Hog Penny Pub, on Burnaby Street a few steps up from
Front Street, is an authentic replica of an English pub, serving
bottled and draught beer and such ultra-British ales as Whitbread's
and Watneys, with sandwiches, and, of course, fish and chips.
Full, hearty meals are also available.
Horse and Buggy, on Queen Street, is another English pub, this
with rather moderate prices.
The Waterfront is a high-grade restaurant directly on the harbor
on East Broadway, a continuation of Front Street. It is a two-story
affair consisting of a cocktail lounge on the street floor, where you
must first take a seat, give your order to the Maitre d', and wait,
presumably sipping a drink, until called, and the restaurant itself,
which is down one flight, almost on the watery edge of the harbor.
This is no place in which to drop by for a hurried luncheon. It can
be a quarter of an hour before you even get your drink, for the
place is always jam-packed, but the results are worth the waiting.
Bermuda rockfish is a great favorite here.
The Tea Cosy, located in the heart of Front Street, is as cosy as
its name. A very inexpensive, unpretentious upstairs luncheon
place of homey atmosphere, its chief charm is the straight-down
view from its porch of the animated doings of Front Street and the
wharves. Often big cruise ships tie up directly across the way.
Outside Hamilton are other restaurants of special character or
charm that may serve as goals for private excursions, engineered
by oneself. Starting from the far west of the fishhook we may
make the first goal in Somerset.
Belfield-in-Somerset, in a pleasant old Bermudian home, serves
lunch and afternoon tea but not dinner. It specializes on Island
dishes, a delicious fish chowder being one of its points of pride.
Another is a challenging affair designated on the menu as "Pawpaw





48 BERMUDA
Montespan with Hopping-John and Salad." This involves ground
beef, cheese and tomato interspersed with the pawpaw (papaya)
in layers, abetted by black-eyed beans and rice, with bacon, this
Hopping-John part being doused with melted butter. If you sur-
vive this and dare tackle a dessert, you may conclude your meal
with Bermuda Syllabub, which is guava jelly steeped in sherry
and topped with clotted cream. The Belfield doubles as a tempting
gift shop.
The Reefs Beach Club, on Southampton's south shore, has been
duly listed among the cottage colonies, but perhaps it may sneak
in here as a separate restaurant since it is also visited by many who
are lured as much by its glorious cliff-top location as by its good
food.
Waterlot Inn, on an inlet of Jews Bay on the sound side of
Southampton below Gibb's Hill Lighthouse, is an 18th-century
house that has three or four rooms for tourists but is chiefly known
as a restaurant of interesting atmosphere. One may eat and drink
inside the building or on the lawn at the water's edge, as the weather
dictates. On Sundays the Waterlot serves a brunch that is an event
of the week. To be sure of securing a table one should book well
in advance. The Waterlot does not serve meals on Mondays.
The Bermudiana Beach Club, on Warwick's south shore, open
to all for lunch, has a view from its terrace down to the beach and
the endless Atlantic so striking that you may forget to eat its
excellent viands.
The Belvedere Restaurant, on Pitts Bay in Pembroke, a mile or
two west of Hamilton, caters to guests wishing a quiet, tasteful
atmosphere, with good food at moderate prices.
The Breakers Beach Club, on John Smith's Bay on the south
shore of Smith's Parish, is an aristocratic restaurant and cocktail
lounge under the same ownership as the Waterfront in Hamilton.
A feature of the Breakers' excellent dinners is liqueur-on-the-house
(creme de menthe, Tia Maria or Cointreau) to send guests away
glowing.
The Plantation House, at the entrance to Leamington Cave, is a





ROVING FOR RESTAURANTS, SHOPS, NIGHT LIFE 49
high-grade restaurant, strong on steaks and lobster. It is much used
by bus tour operators.
The Swizzle Inn is a gimmicky drinking den east of Harrington
Sound, not far from the Lili Perfume Factory. Thousands of names
and dates are pencilled, penned, scratched, lipsticked on walls,
beams and ceilings, along with hundreds of calling cards. On one
occasion when I was there with friends we looked long and ear-
nestly for the earliest name and date. We found it all right: Julius
Caesar, 64 B.C.!
Tom Moore's Tavern, converted from a mansion named Wal-
singham built in 1652, is reached by a short side road leading from
Harrington Sound Road. This was one of Tom's haunts during
his short stay (4 months) on Bermuda and the Tavern is adorned
with Tom's verses, lettered on the walls. In 1959, it even sprouted
a little Tom Moore Gift Shop. One item of Mooreana, found a
while ago in a London antique shop, is a carved coconut cup with
silver rim used by Tom in Bermuda and presented by him to Nea.
Three of Tom's bibulous and amorous verses that are seen on the
wall may be set down here.
Within this goblet, rich and deep,
I cradle all my woes to sleep.
The time I've lost in wooing,
In watching and pursuing
The light, that lies in woman's eyes,
Has been my heart's undoing.
Friend of my soul,
'Twill chase that pensive tear.
Tis not so sweet as woman's lip,
But oh! 'tis more sincere.
If food interests you more than clever verses, you may regale
yourself with steak or lobster, topping it off, if it's in the spring
season, with Bermuda strawberries i la mode. The Tavern has a
taproom, with a waist-high fireplace, and a rambling dining room,
with an ankle-high fireplace.




50 BERMUDA
Shopping in Bermuda is of basic, axiomatic, universal interest to
visitors, and the area in Hamilton where it is chiefly concentrated
is on Front Street, Queen Street and Reid Street, with some good
specialty shops also on Bermudiana Road. In the three-street area
first mentioned you'll find department stores such as Trimingham's,
H. A. & E. Smith and A. S. Cooper & Sons, and many smaller spe-
cialty shops featuring British imports but offering, also, the choice
goods of Europe and even the Orient. English and Scottish wool-
ens, cashmere and shetland sweaters, doeskin gloves, British
leather goods, British china, British pipes, these are but a few of
the obvious buys, but give thought, also, to French perfumes and
Bermudian specialties, such as calypso skirts and jackets, skirts and
trousers of a cloth called Bermuda doeskin, a de luxe flannel,
novelties in cedar wood and, of course, Bermuda shorts and the
long stretch sox to go with them. A strictly Bermudian item of
purchase is shark's oil barometers, which come in various sizes,
but for tourists chiefly in small tubes, mounted on a piece of
cedar. The oil is clear if fair weather is to come but clouds up
when it senses foul weather in the offing. The biggest merchants
in Hamilton swear by it. If the meteorologists warn of a hurricane
on the way, they simply will not put up their window shutters
until and unless the shark's oil confirms the prediction. From my
experience of it at home, however, I'd say it works much better
in Bermuda than in the States.
An exotic touch is offered to shoppers by Fong's Oriental Shop,
in quarters on Front Street, west of Queen Street. It offers lacquer
ware, silks, Oriental linens, ivory and jade items, teakwood fur-
niture and chests of camphor wood.
As for in-bond liquors, well, it appears that something like ten
visitors out of nine buy their full quota of whisky, usually Scotch,
or of foreign liqueurs ranging from Napolean Cognac to Bene-
dictine to Drambuie to Cherry Heering. Five-bottle, one-gallon
packages are available everywhere, for delivery to you at your
departure on ship or plane. In-bond liquors of all sorts are about
as joke-cheap here as in any Caribbean port, but if you're flying




ROVING FOR RESTAURANTS, SHOPS, NIGHT LIFE 51
home remember that the liquor will be weighed, each gallon pack-
age being about sixteen pounds.
I have mentioned that the timetable of the ferry services offers
shopping hints, and it does indeed advertise numerous specialty
places, several in Somerset. Shopping in village and hamlet can be
as much fun as in Hamilton and you can have a great time browsing
in Somerset's dens of temptation such as the Irish Linen Shop and
Belfield-in-Somerset. In the former I fell for tartan ties, each labeled
with the name of the clan represented, and emerged from the shop
an Anderson. Some of the shops at the far ends of the Island are
branches of those in Hamilton and, unlike the city stores which
close at noon or, in some cases, 12:30, every Thursday, they stay
open all day. Thus Thursday afternoon is good for combination
touring and shopping. The complete halting of business in Hamil-
ton Thursday afternoons is something to reckon with unless your
stay is a long one.
An unexpected item of Bermudian shopping is art, with special
emphasis on the art of Alfred Birdsey, whom I have already men-
tioned. Do, I urge you, tell your driver to go to the studio of this
artist, in Paget, and at least look at his charming water colors and
oils. He keeps himself too busy filling special orders, yet he
always has time to be your gracious host and show you his work.
He sells many of his deft landscapes and seacapes, usually with
people in the scene, for as little as $1o. I took one home and en-
joy it not only for its intrinsic merit but as a conversation
piece.
As in the case of other major shopping islands, it is well to be
warned of Bermuda's special holidays, in addition to such "staples"
as Christmas and New Year's, so here they are: May 24 (Empire
Day); the Queen's "Official Birthday," on a moveable June date
announced well in advance; July 28 (Somers Day); Cup Match
Day, meaning the annual cricket match between two Island teams
held just prior to Somers Day; November 1 (Remembrance Day,
for the Armistice of World War I); and December 26 (Boxing
Day).




52 BERMUDA
Night life, in general, is very pleasant in Bermuda, though some-
times hectic and sometimes late, since 3 A.M. is the present legal
closing time. All the big hotels and some of the not-so-big ones
have nightly dancing, except on Sunday, usually spiced by enter-
tainment features. Three nonhotel night clubs of Hamilton, leaders
in their field, are The Forty Thieves, the Jungle Club and the
Ecarte Club, all staying open until three o'clock. The Forty
Thieves is the largest of the three, with a capacity for four hundred
when jampacked. Although serving food from noon on, it is
primarily a real night club presenting big and ambitious inter-
national floor shows twice a night. Steel bands, calypso and, almost
unfailingly, limbo fire dancers are standard fare, as they are and
have been for many years in virtually all of the Atlantic and
Caribbean islands, from Bermuda to Trinidad, on which island all
three originated.
Among the more durable of Bermuda's entertainment groups are
the versatile people of the Holiday Island Revue, and among the
most gifted individuals is a totally blind pianist named Lance (for
Launcelot) Hayward. So great is his talent, not only for popular
and dance music but for classics, that he has even been compared
to Alec Templeton. His memory is fantastic, for he has been
known to give supporting piano music for a full hour's show after
only one rehearsal without missing a single cue. Harmony Hall
is where, at this writing, he is chiefly seen, heard and admired, but
he also entertains in the dining rooms of such hotels as Sherwood
Manor.
Another durable troupe of Island entertainers is the Talbot
Brothers, calypso singers and players who made their own instru-
ments, including a bass viol that seems to have been sired by drift-
wood and dammed by a packing case. They're wonderful, and
that's what London thought, too, when they went there a few
years ago and achieved a triumph. Few visitors return from
Bermuda without taking home one or more Talbot Brothers
records. The Esso Steel Band, the Shell Steel Band, and various




ROVING FOR RESTAURANTS, SHOPS, NIGHT LIFE 53
other groups and pairs and singletons also entertain throughout
Bermuda, and most of them are good.
The Gombey Dancers, who used to appear in various night
clubs but are now seen only in street dances on very special days
such as Empire Day and Boxing Day, are authentic darkest-Africa
performers doing tribal dances that have been unchanged for
generations, having been originally brought to Bermuda by slaves
and perpetuated by their descendants. They wear elaborate,
multicolored tunics and fringed pants, and on their head peacock-
feather "plumes" at least three feet high. Their dancing is wild,
frenzied, delirious, and their drumming is quite as furiously fre-
netic. On their rare appearances they are a source of vast enter-
tainment.
None of the entertainers, I should explain, have a fixed habitat.
The Talbots, for instance, may entertain in various of the big
hotels and even in some of the cottage colonies. This Week in
Bermuda and Preview will give you current counsels on this sub-
ject, as on all other holiday doings.
Bermuda's magnetism never falters, for it is a fact of statistics
that not only in Cambridge Beaches but in other cottage colonies,
guest houses and hotels, repeaters constitute a big portion of the
patronage. Magnetism of the figurative sort is hardly an exact
science. One comes, one sees, one is conquered.










PART TWO


THE BAHAMAS

The Bahamian Story from Columbus
to Tourist Trove
MOST students of history believe that the first landfall of Columbus
was the island which he named San Salvador (Sainted Savior), in
the Bahamas, though an articulate few favor other islands. The
chief candidate of these few, a small group with a carrying voice,
is the Caicos Islands group, which lies northeast of Great and
Little Inagua and therefore clearly within the Bahamas group
geographically yet it is, disconcertingly, a dependency of Jamaica.
To this school of dissidents belongs Kjeld-Larsen, a long-time
resident of Eleuthera, whose explosive book Columbus Never
Came, first published in 1964, caused quite a stir in the islands.
That Columbus did land here, in San Salvador, will probably be
accepted by those visitors who believe Shakespeare wrote Shake-
speare, and that, surely, is a formidable majority. In the middle of
the 17th century, when English colonists first made effective and
permanent settlements in the Bahamas, San Salvador underwent a
bleak change of name to Watling's Island, honoring a one-time
corsair named George Watling, but in 1926, when the authenticity
of Columbus' landing was made "official," by the Bahamas Leg-
islature, the original name was ceremoniously and jubilantly rein-
stated. That was the signal for a new controversy, fixing the exact
spot where the explorer's foot first touched Bahamian soil. One
chosen spot is on the east coast and two others, considered much
nearer the true point, are on the southwest coast and all three now
have small monuments.




BAHAMIAN STORY FROM COLUMBUS TO TOURIST TROVE 55
The natives of the gentle, unwarlike Arawak tribe whom
Columbus thought to be Indians of Asia thought him and his
mariners to be gods, but the Spaniards who followed Columbus
quickly dispelled that idea. They decoyed thousands to Cuba and
Hispaniola (now the Dominican Republic and Haiti) to work as
slaves on the plantations and in the mines, and when the demand
for labor increased they hunted them down with dogs and seized
them outright, like so much booty. So thorough was this campaign
that the entire population, to a man-and woman and child-was
wiped out in about twenty years. When Ponce de Le6n came to
the Bahamas in 1513, he found virtually no trace of the Arawaks,
who had numbered forty thousand. Nor did they long survive as
slaves, for the work conditions were terrible for people who had
lived the life of "aboriginal Reilly." They died and that was that.
Ponce de Le6n is remembered as the first colonizer and gover-
nor of Puerto Rico and as the explorer of Florida, but he had, also, a
connection with the Bahamas, for the Spanish Crown granted him
the title of Adelantado of Florida and Bimini. He planned to
establish colonies in both places but his untimely death snuffed out
the plan.
In 1629, Charles I, by royal grant, gave the islands to a courtier
named Sir Robert Heath, but to him they seem to have been only
a name on a map. Not until twenty years later did Puritan settlers
come from England and Bermuda, calling themselves the Eleuther-
ian Adventurers, from eleutheros, the Greek word for freedom.
They settled on a long (hundred miles), narrow string bean of an
island called Cigateo, which they promptly rechristened Eleutheria,
for their group. Somewhere the i was lost and it became the Eleu-
thera we know today. The pious adventures were helped by Boston
Puritans and in grateful appreciation they sent a cargo of braziletto
wood valued at 124 to Harvard College, as it was then called,
being the second largest grant received by the college up to that
time. Harvard University still displays a plaque commemorating
the gift.
The settlers had a dreadful time from Spanish raiders, French




56 THE BAHAMAS
raiders and common or garden pirates. Pirates did, in fact, set up
housekeeping on New Providence, the island of Nassau, the present
capital. They flourished for decades, among them the sadistic
Edward Teach, known and feard as Blackbeard, and the formid-
able lady pirates Anne Bonny and Mary Read. There were more
than a thousand of them in and around Nassau. The colony's
governors, one after another, proved ineffectual or downright
corrupt, some of them making open and profitable deals with the
pirates. Conditions grew more and more chaotic until finally, in
1718, George I appointed a remarkable man named Captain
Woodes Rogers as the first Royal Governor of the Bahamas.
Rogers himself had been a privateer, polite word, so it was a case
of sending a seasoned pirate to suppress piracy. He was a "strong
man" of his time, and he took his job seriously by hanging a number
of the leaders, pardoning others on their pledge to be good and
dispersing a thousand or more to other areas. The place where he
hanged on the gallows a number of his former colleagues, so to
speak, is still pointed out in the grounds of Nassau's big waterfront
tourist hotel, now the Sheraton-British Colonial. Pirates were still
a nuisance but order was restored, or initiated, in Nassau and
throughout the Bahamas. It was in tribute to Rogers' success that
the motto of the Bahamas, still in use, was adopted in 1728, Expulsis
Piratis, Resituta Commercia (Pirates Expelled, Commerce Re-
stored), with a picture of a trading schooner to pin down its
meaning.
As the pirate business declined, the shipwrecking business took
hold and many a ship richly laden is said to have been deliberately
wrecked either by the technique of hanging out false lights to
decoy victims to a reef, as perfected later by Sam Lord in Barbados,
or by connivance with rascally skippers, but a good mark in this
seamy period was the gradual abolishing of slavery, following the
proclamation of the universal British Emancipation Act in 1834.
In 186 there came a glorious windfall in the form of our Civil
War, which turned the Bahamas into a perfect base for Confederate
blockade runners. In 1859, the shipping pioneer Samuel Cunard,





BAHAMIAN STORY FROM COLUMBUS TO TOURIST TROVE 57
the islands' first promoter of tourism, had agreed to establish a
monthly steamship service between New York and Nassau, and
to go with this the Bahamas Government provided the money for
the building of the Royal Victoria Hotel in Nassau, which is still
going strong in its second century. This pioneer hotel was soon
to prove a godsend to the blockade runners, and Nassau rolled in
sudden wealth as mountains, or whole ranges, of cotton were
stacked in the streets to be sold in exchange for British munitions
so sorely needed by the Confederacy.
Came 1865, and the bottom dropped out of Bahamian prosperity.
Pineapple production was tried, sisal growing was tried. Sponge
fishing was tried. All fizzled out, the last-named due to a mysterious
disease that killed off the sponges. World War I touched the islands
only lightly, but then, in 1919, came the United States' "Noble
Experiment" of prohibition, a rescuing angel, though perhaps a
nether angle, equipped to rescue Bahamian economy. Rum running
became even more lucrative than blockade running had been. The
good neighbor, U.S.A., had done it again. Whisky that was landed
from Scotland quadrupled in price in Nassau and anything that
would float carried it to the States. This was when the skipper
William McCoy sold "the real McCoy," 175,000 eagerly sought
cases of it, in four years at sky-high prices. This is when the big
British Colonial Hotel, now the Sheraton-British Colonial, was
built, as also the Montagu Beach Hotel, to cope with the exciting
times. Many a "Bay Street fortune" was built during the fourteen
years of prohibition, but then, as it must to all bubbles, came the
burst. In 1933, the Volstead Act (prohibition) was repealed and the
illegal alcoholic flood dried to a legal trickle.
That's where we came in, you and I, the tourist treasure trove
that has finally made a lady out of the strumpet of devious trades.
Samuel Cunard had made a tentative start, but in the 1930's and
far more in the decades after World War II, tourism grew to be
the mainstay of the islands' fortunes. Sir Stafford Sands, first as
Chairman of the Bahamas Development Board and, since 1964,
with the new Internal Self-Government for the Bahamas, as Min-





58 THE BAHAMAS
ister for Finance and Tourism, is credited with playing the major
role in building up the industry. Interest was heightened in 1961
by the picking up, in Bahamian waters, though actually off Turks
Island, of astronaut Alan B. Shepard, Jr., the United States' first
space traveler, and in 1962 by the famous conference of President
Kennedy and Prime Minister Macmillan at Lyford Cay, New
Providence. From less than fifty thousand visitors a year in 1950
the number rose to five hundred thousand and more in the early
sixties and to over six hundred thousand as the decade passed the
halfway mark. The current phenomenal development of Lucaya,
the "New World Riviera," at Freeport in Grand Bahama, abetted
by the luxury liner Italia, now a permanently berthed five-hundred-
room hotel, also at Freeport, and by the big resort of the Jack Tar
Corporation at West End, twenty-eight miles distant on the same
island, bids fair to double, even triple, the present tourist total in
a matter of a few years. To bring this about, the Grand Bahama
Amusement Company, a subsidiary of the Grand Bahama Develop-
ment Company, contracted to build three new first-class hotels,
totaling at least a thousand rooms, within two years in return for
an exclusive ten-year gambling license covering the entire island.
The thousand rooms are already doubled, or soon will be, to two
thousand and still more are planned. A special clause in the cer-
tificate stipulated that for the whole decade of the license all
gambling profits were to be plowed back into the development.
The amazing complex of Lucaya/Freeport/West End will be
covered hereinafter, but it is enough to say here that we tourists,
and not only that portion of our tribe that flirts with Dame
Fortune in casinos, have done what war and liquor were never
able to do. We have brought permanent economic health to the
Bahamas' "Seven Hundred Pieces of Paradise," as promoters like
to call their islands. Fast ships and faster planes carry myriads of
us, in increasing flow, on a latter-day gold rush, seeking the yellow
treasure of the sun on a field of crinkled blue.





ARRIVAL AND FIRST THINGS TO KNOW


Arrival and First Things to Know
Nothing in the world of travel is easier than to reach and enter
the Bahamas from the United States or Canada, whether by air or
sea. Jets from Miami to Nassau take only thirty minutes, from
New York only two hours and forty minutes, and from Montreal
and Toronto three and four hours respectively. There are about
a hundred flights a week by Pan American, Mackey and Bahamas
Airways between Miami and Nassau, while still other direct flights
are made, chiefly by Mackey Airlines, from Miami, Fort Lauder-
dale, Tampa, West Palm Beach and Jacksonville, to various points
in the resort islands.
To review the chief "lines of approach," Pan American Airways
is, of course, a long-time familiar of Nassau, with regular jet serv-
ice, daily in winter, direct from New York, and thrice-daily jet
service from Miami. As the pioneer carrier in the Caribbean and
in Atlantic, Pacific and round-the-world flights, now with some
forty years of experience, Pan Am is the airborne granddaddy of
the Western World. As regards its services to the Bahamas, I am
glad to add this special note: In the winter of 1964-65, it added a
new service, daily in season, thrice weekly at other times, from
Miami to Rock Sound, Eleuthera, with a halt en route at Nassau.
By agreement with authorities concerned it may even pick up
passengers at Nassau for the interisland flight, and of course it
permits through passengers from Miami to Rock Sound to have a
stopover in Nassau. This added service won quick acceptance
and popularity.
British Overseas Airways Corporation (BOAC) flies daily jets
from New York and near-dailies from Jamaica and from London,
some flights making a halt in Bermuda.
Bahamas Airways Limited, known in alphabet language as BAL,
has seven daily Viscount flights from Miami, other daily services
direct from Fort Lauderdale and, from Miami and West Palm
Beach, via Grand Bahama and Abaco, and within the Bahamas it
maintains a well-operated and labyrinthine network of services,




60 THE BAHAMAS
Nassau being, of course, the hub.
Mackey Airlines has greatly expanded in recent times. Now
flying from the five Florida airports listed above, it serves not only
Nassau (thrice daily) but Grand Bahama, Bimini, Abaco and
Andros. Mackey is the sole carrier between Florida points and
Bimini.
Air Canada, which was called Trans-Canada Air Lines until
mid-1964, operates regular flights, several times weekly, from
Toronto and at least once from Montreal, plus a newer weekly
service from Vancouver, via Edmonton.
Sea travel to the Bahamas is quite as simple as air travel. From
Miami come Eastern Steamship Lines' Bahama Star, P & O Steam-
ship Company's Florida and Yarmouth Cruises' Yarmouth or
Yarmouth Castle, all on twice-weekly coordinated cruises and all
tying up close together at the big Prince George Wharf in the
heart of Nassau. In one of the cruises all three liners arrive Tuesday
morning about nine and depart Thursday evening at six, while
in the other cruise all three arrive Saturday morning and depart
Sunday evening. The moored ships are the passengers' hotels.
In the 1965 winter season another regular cruise liner, the M/V
Bilu, built in Belgium in 1964 but operated, of all things, by Swiss
Cruise Lines, went into service on four-day and three-day cruises
from Miami to Nassau to Freeport. The Bilu is utterly different
from any other cruise ship. Its promoters call it a boatel, signifying
that you drive your family car aboard as if it were a car ferry, but
it has, also, berth accommodations for five hundred passengers.
From Miami, also, come Florida Bahama Lines' Calypso, on three-
day cruises to Bimini; Atlantic Cruise Lines' Anna C, a six-hun-
dred-passenger Italian liner that cruises from Port Everglades
(Fort Lauderdale) to Freeport and Nassau during the winter
months. Of quite different type are the Windjammer Cruises from
Miami (for information contact Captain Mike Burke, P.O. Box
1051, Miami Beach 39, Florida) to the Bahamas and the Caribbean,
lasting ten days but with much open-sea sailing done at night,
leaving more daylight hours for island sight-seeing.




ARRIVAL AND FIRST THINGS TO KNOW 61
From West Palm Beach there is a thrice-weekly service to West
End, Grand Bahama, by the M.S. Grand Bahama, a five-hour day-
light passage, with complimentary lunch on board. Two hundred
passengers can be accommodated and tickets are interchangeable
with airline tickets.
From New York comes Home Lines' S.S. Oceanic, a superb
luxury liner of 34,000 gross tons, whose maiden voyage to Nassau
on April 25, 1965, was widely heralded months in advance, re-
placing in this service the traditional Homeric. The Oceanic is
Home Lines' own property, whereas the Homeric was operated
on an agency basis. The newer ship, like the older, maintains a reg-
ular weekly service, sailing from New York every Saturday at
4 P.M., arriving in Nassau Tuesday morning, leaving Wednesday
in the late afternoon, for arrival in New York Saturday morning.
This, like the smaller cruise ships from Miami, serves as the pas-
sengers' hotel while in Nassau, but it is too large to tie up at a
wharf, so hourly tender service, both ways, is maintained. With
cruise director and a full program of activities on board, these
almost-seven-day jaunts have long been popular.
Cruise ships including Nassau in their Caribbean itineraries are
numerous, numbering about twenty in all. The giant Queen Eliz-
abeth is the queen of them all. She made three Nassau cruises in
her first such season, the winter of 1963-64, and has since main-
tained about five each season. Among other famous cruise liners
visiting Nassau are the United States Line's flagship United States,
Holland-America Line's flagship Rotterdam and Moore-McCor-
mack Line's Brasil. Another to watch for-its schedules are in a
formative stage-is the M/S Viking Princess, formerly the M/S
Riviera Prima but now a property of the widely known Norwe-
gian shipping family of Bergesen, with Flagship Line Agency of
New York as sales agent. This ship, third largest under Norwegian
ownership, warrants special mention since it is likely to be one of
the few offering short summer cruises from New York to Bermuda
and/or the Bahamas, as its literature states. The winter cruises are
expected to originate in Miami.




62 THE BAHAMAS
The above is how you arrive and I can say that when you ar-
rive, at the Windsor Airport or at the big Prince George Wharf,
you'll be delighted with the ease of it. You need no passport,
though some form of identification will be requested, nor even,
for return to the States, the smallpox vaccination certificate nor-
mally required of United States residents returning from a foreign
land. Customs examinations are unformidable and courteously
done. As for your customs form, you have completed it in a trice
if you answer "No" to three simple questions relating to gifts or
articles for sale; to liquor (more than one quart) and tobacco
(more than fifty cigars or two hundred cigarettes); and firearms
on your person or in your baggage.
On leaving the Bahamas, I should warn you, a departure tax of
$2.00 for adults and $1.oo for children under twelve is to be paid.
Whimsifiers like to say that this indicates how much Bahama hates
to see you go but payers of the tax do not always share the whimsy.
A thing all leavers of the islands from Nassau's airport do like very
much (this is not in effect at any other departure point of the
Bahamas) is getting through the United States Immigration and
Customs formalities then and there.
For money, you use dollars and cents and get your change in
your home currency, though you may, if you like, purchase the
islands' money, which is Bahamian paper bills and British sub-
sidiary coins. The exchange rate between Bahamian pounds and
U.S. dollars is exactly the same as that between Bermudian
pounds and U.S. dollars. Therefore, to avoid repetition, I would
refer the reader to the currency table given in the Bermuda sec-
tion. If you pay for everything in dollars you may lose from 2 to 6
per cent on a few transactions, such as taxi fares and small pur-
chases. However, the saving is so slight that if you do not wish to
cope with pounds, shillings and pence, involving duodecimal
arithmetic, you will do well to stick to United States currency.
Bahamian postage stamps, usually purchasable in hotel news
shops, are as follows for air mail, which virtually all visitors use:
Letters weighing up to Yz ounce to the United States and Canada




ARRIVAL AND FIRST THINGS TO KNOW 63
8d, usually called o1 cents, and post cards 6d, called 7 cents. To
England and the Continent the postage is iod, called 12 cents, for
letters weighing up to 4 ounce.
Shops are open from 9 to 5, as in the United States and Canada.
Friday afternoon, however, is a half holiday, all shops closing at
noon. A few offices remain open. The following are Bahamian
legal holidays for hard-pressed shoppers to beware of: New
Year's day, January i; Good Friday; Easter Monday; Common-
wealth Day, May 24; Queen's Birthday, by proclamation; Whit
Monday, Eighth Monday after Easter; August Bank Holiday,
First Monday; Discovery Day, October t1; Christmas Day De-
cember 25; Boxing Day, December 26.
For anything else the visitor may wish to know, the prime
source of information is the abovementioned Ministry of Tourism,
whose central offices are in the new Treasury Building on Rawson
Square, supplemented by a tourist information office on Bay
Street at the entrance to Rawson Square. From this conveniently
located office you may obtain needed brochures to back up the
oral information. The two most basic ones are What-to-Do in
Nassau and The Pocket Guide to the Out Islands [Resort Islands]
of the Bahamas. A weekly information booklet, independently
published and distributed gratis, is entitled Visitor's Guide. You'll
probably find it in your hotel, or perhaps it will be given to you
on arrival. A first-rate map put out by Wasile Enterprises is pur-
chasable in the bookstores and news shops for 75 cents. On one
side it has a general map of the Bahamas and a complete street
map of Nassau. On the other it has a map of New Providence and
also a very detailed map of downtown Nassau showing the exact
locations of hotels, restaurants, night clubs, shops and much else.
In its wealth of information, this Wasile map is a big six bits'
worth. The Ministry of Tourism is the most fully staffed of any
in the Bahamian Government, and is, for that matter, more ade-
quately financed for tourist promotion than is any similar official
headquarters in any other island group of the Atlantic or the
Caribbean.




THE BAHAMAS


The government's emphasis on tourism is, of course, due to the
fact that this industry is by far the most important in the islands'
economy, but it was given a special and prideful boost by the
coming, on January 7, 1964, of Internal Self-Government, a his-
toric change that brought to Bahamians a fresh sense of responsi-
bility. The Bahamas are not quite dominions, like Jamaica and
Trinidad/Tobago (since 1962), but under the new constitution
there is a ministerial system with a two-chamber legislature-
the House of Assembly and the Senate-and a cabinet with a pre-
mier and fourteen ministers. The governor, appointed by the
Crown, acts on the advice of the cabinet except in foreign affairs,
defense and internal security, where Britain still retains responsi-
bility. The premier must command a majority in the House of
Assembly. Otherwise, as in the United Kingdom, he must resign
or else call for new elections.


Choosing Your Roof in Nassau or Its Environs
A dozen and more good hotels are within the confines of Nassau,
a city of some 75,000 inhabitants, and at least three more, all of
superior quality, lie well beyond the built-up portion of the city.
To find our own chosen roof we will review them, moving our
attention from east to west, since that, in general, has been the
direction in which tourist development has moved. To the east of
town lies a fashionable residential area, but beyond the Montagu
Beach (see below) there are no hotels.
We'll call our shots in order, but first a word about the hotels'
varying plans of operation, repeating, in part, some explana-
tions given in the Bermuda coverage. All the larger and more
prominent places offer a choice between European Plan, without
meals, and Modified American Plan, with breakfast and dinner
but not lunch. Eating around is a practical sport in Nassau, but of
course you may always buy your lunch separately in your own
hotel if you don't feel like scouting around for variety's sake. A





CHOOSING YOUR ROOF IN NASSAU OR ITS ENVIRONS 65
few hotels offer all three plans, full American Plan being with all
meals, and some even add the fourth possibility, Continental
Plan, which is lodging and breakfast. And now the roster of the
hotels, from east to west.
Montagu Beach Hotel, with I8o rooms, is at the extreme eas-
tern edge of town, two miles from Rawson Square, the nucleus of
Nassau, at a point where Bay Street, the main shopping and busi-
ness thoroughfare, running parallel to the harbor, has become
East Bay Street and curved to the south. It is a high-grade hotel
with all the amenities that such a place needs, including immediate
proximity to the Nassau Yacht Club and the Royal Nassau Sailing
Club. It is not quite a beach hotel but has a newer wing that
directly faces Montagu Beach. Its Empire Room is the smart supper
club, with dancing and entertainment, and this is abetted by the
lively After-Deck Bar, with a calypso band. A relatively new
feature, in a separate building, is the delightful Marine Grill,
where patrons gaze through plate glass windows into the hotel's
vision-level pool, commenting pro or con on the looks of fellow
guests in their swimsuits. Daily except Sunday during the season,
and thrice weekly out of season, an under water ballet is pre-
sented, featuring a star ballerina, now Frances Dwight. The show
comes at one o'clock to regale luncheon guests.
Nassau Harbour Club is a residential club of about fifty rooms
on the harbor side of East Bay Street, with a good marina directly
adjacent to it. It is less expensive than the Montagu Beach.
Pilot House Club, of about the same size and price range as its
neighbor, is another residential club of East Bay Street, with the
Nassau Yacht Haven across the street and the Bay Shore Marina
close by. The Yacht Haven is the headquarters of the Nassau
Charter Boat Association, an important place to know.
The Royal Elizabeth is a forty-room budget hotel on Eliza-
beth Avenue, two blocks east of Rawson Square, overlooking the
harbor and its lively life. It is a pleasant place and pleasantly in-
expensive, operating on the European Plan only. It features





66 THE BAHAMAS
separate patio eating and drinking around its harborside pool. On
a lower level is a restaurant and bar-lounge called The Purple
Onion.
Carlton House, on East Street, a block east of Rawson Square,
is conservative, moderate in rates, and with a rather special and
"likable" air about it. Its cuisine is dependably good. One of the
Bahamas' most widely known and liked entertainers, a giant of a
man named George Symonette, brought evening fame to the Carl-
ton during a substantial contract period with his husky-voiced
songs and nimble pianizing. He has a humorous song declaring
that he is not the Bahamian Premier of the same surname! His
records are purchasable in many Bay Street shops.
Harbour Moon Hotel, on Bay Street a bit east of Rawson
Square, is a rather new one of thirty rooms, offering European
Plan only. Rates are low. It is Chinese-run and is known for its
excellent Chinese restaurant.
The Royal Victoria, now in its second century, calls itself "the
first resort hotel in the New World" and certainly the blockade
runners of the Civil War days resorted to it in droves, for it was
then quite new. It celebrates its one-time patronage by naming its
popular drinking room the Blockade Runners Bar. It has had its
face lifted and its body lifted several times, once recently. It is
justly proud of its large tropical gardens, enclosing a pool, and of
its popular tree house, Swiss Family Robinson style, to which
guests may climb to enjoy cooling drinks, though this practice is
not particularly encouraged. Evenings during the season a calpyso
steel band mounts to the tree house to entertain. The Royal Vic
is a character place of the first importance, with over a hundred
rooms, moderately priced. It is located two long blocks in and up
from Rawson Square but guests have free bathing privileges at the
Sheraton-British Colonial, six or eight minutes walk distant.
The Windsor Inne, on the in-side of Bay Street, is a good thrift
hotel, offering all three plans, with rates to rest the tired budget.
Cumberland House, a bit in from Bay Street, but not far, is a
quiet inn of seventeen rooms, justly proud of its Garden Terrace





CHOOSING YOUR ROOF IN NASSAU OR ITS ENVIRONS 67
restaurant, a lovely retreat, with "cooking by the owners." Orange
pancakes are a special dessert. They are browned crisp, flavored
with orange butter, hard sauce and a full pony of Cointreau,
served, flaming, like crepes suzette.
The Sheraton-British Colonial, born in the rum-running days, is
the strongly beating holiday heart of Nassau tourism. With three
hundred rooms, it is still the largest hotel in Nassau, unless tied by
the Emerald Beach (see below), though surpassed by several on
Grand Bahama. It is not merely on Bay Street but it forces that
thoroughfare to detour a full block to get by it. With its Britannia
Bar, enlivened by calypso goombay entertainment, this stressing
Congo drum rhythms, its night club, called La Cage, its Rib Room,
for prime roast beef, broiled Bahamian lobster and other delicacies,
its English-style Coffee House, its "Little Bond Street" of gift
shops and its exceedingly spacious palm-shaded seaside lawn cen-
tered by a gay swimming pool and bordered by a flawless beach,
the hotel has everything to keep it humming with tourist life, and
hum it certainly does, from dawn almost to another dawn. Native
shows under the stars and even weekly luaus, in season, on the
outdoor Goombay Patio are among the many featured attractions.
In 1962, the British Colonial joined the group of Sheraton's fran-
chised hotels and acquired the valuable Sheraton tag, though it
continues to be operated by the Gill Hotels Company. It offers all
three plans and for such a city-unto-itself the rates are by no means
high.
The Colonial House and Garden Apartments, squarely opposite
the Sheraton-British Colonial, is a gleaming white, folksy guest
house.
The Ocean Spray is a pastel pink guest house on West Bay
Street.
The Mayfair, on West Bay Street facing the harbor where it
opens to the sea-only the inner side of this basic street from here
westward is built up-is one of Nassau's inexpensive hotels, with
a wonderful view and modem design and d6cor. The dining room,
coffee shop and bar are on the ground floor, while the lounge, open





THE BAHAMAS


patio and pool are up one flight.
The Dolphin, relatively new, faces directly upon the harbor
and the open sea, a few steps from a good beach. It is a five-story
pink structure, with white trim, built around a large patio-pool. It
has about seventy rooms, each with bath and with a private bal-
cony. Not long ago, it underwent a certain amount of remodeling
and renewal.
Continuing west along the shore and well outside the city on a
frontage called Cable Beach, are two large and outstanding luxury
hotels, the Nassau Beach, advertising 278 rooms, and the Emerald
Beach, now advertising 300. I say "now" because, for a consider-
able time, it claimed only 299 rooms, one less than the Sheraton-
British Colonial. Perhaps this proved embarrassing. At any rate,
the proprietors built, or found, the three hundredth room, to make
it a photo finish with its downtown rival. Both the Nassau Beach
and the Emerald Beach are top quality hotels, with every luxury
to please an exigent clientele, and both are expensive, especially
the Nassau Beach, which is the newer of the two. This is a
place of arresting d6cor, with many unusual features, including a
plentiful array of brass and bronze hanging lamps of odd design.
Opening from one side of the lobby is Colony Street, a "lane" of
smart shops, and from the other side the Out Island Bar, shaped
like the poop of a galleon. Within the bar there hang from the
ceiling straps, with brass handles, a formidable row of them, to
be clutched in case of rough seas. The hotel is shaped like a big U
surrounding a pool and with the beach only a few steps' walk
distant. The balcony of each room of the U manages to slant
toward the sea, for view and breeze. A surprise of the hotel is a
separate Howard Johnson Restaurant, complete with its little
cupola topped by a Simple Simon weather vane.
The Emerald Beach is about equally modem and luxurious,
though quite different in style, with vast dining room, pool, beach
club and wharf.
At the far western end of the island, is a large residential com-





CHOOSING YOUR ROOF IN NASSAU OR ITS ENVIRONS 69
munity, Lyford Cay, where many expensive homes are being built.
In addition to the real estate development, there is a protected
harbor, a golf course and a residential club for members. It was
here that Kennedy and Macmillan held their conference.
Clear across New Providence, on the south side, is Coral Har-
bour Club, the newest and perhaps the most posh of the residen-
tial clubs, though surprisingly less expensive than either the Nassau
Beach or Emerald Beach Hotels. Its prices are, indeed, almost a
third lower. This club, with about seventy rooms for visitors, is
the compleatt resort" for the active or passive vacationist. It has
a pool, a good and extensive beach, a yacht club with marina for
15o boats, a golf course, tennis courts and all facilities for water
sports. Not the least of its attractions are its sparkling design, its
captivating d6cor and its lovely landscaping. Despite its distance
from Nassau, some twelve or thirteen miles, it has caught on and
will be sure to advance in the sophisticated popularity it courts.
On Paradise Island, across the harbor from downtown Nassau,
there's a resort of superluxury, Huntington Hartford's twenty-
eight-million-dollar baby, his reincarnation of what was once Hog
Island, though it should have been given another g, since it was
named for a Mr. Hogg.
To reach the island one takes a launch from a wharf at the
Mermaid Tavern and Floridita Restaurant off Bay Street, a double-
ton that features quotes from Samuel Johnson about Fleet Street
fare but specializes in Spanish food and Bacardi daiquiris. The
transit time to the Paradise Island wharf is only five or six minutes.
Hurricane Hole, with a big welcome sign to yachtsmen, is the
island's conspicuous marina. Admission to the beach facilities,
which are on the ocean side of the island, is $2.00 per person but
this includes locker, towel and soap, and is valid for all day. The
beach, formerly called Cabbage Beach but now Paradise Beach,
is a mile and a half long and as perfect as if made by the Archangel
Gabriel and his smartest crew of sandsweepers.
About three quarters of the island's seven hundred acres, plus





70 THE BAHAMAS
forty new ones stolen from the harbor, are undeveloped, but what
a job Mr. Hartford did with those he did develop! He made a
New World Versailles of them, complete with gardens, fountains,
pools, Old World statues and even, as dividend, a lovely I3th-
century Augustinian cloister imported from Montrejeau, in south-
ern France. In one of the gardens there is a twelve-foot bronze
statue of Franklin D. Roosevelt, a replica of the one in London's
Grosvenor Square, and looking across at F.D.R. is a statue of
similar size of David Livingstone, complete with water bottle and
Bible. Hercules stands in the middle of the garden, ready to mediate
with his giant club if needed, and in one corner Cupid and Psyche
are making love, a bit indecently, in marble, while Roosevelt and
Livingstone look on, as also does Hercules.
The Ocean Club, which is the hotel that Hartford built, fronting
on glorious Paradise Beach, has only fifty rooms but every line
of the structure, a double one with the driveway between, is as
perfect as money, lots of money, could make it. Among its sport
features are a championship eighteen-hole golf course, four tennis
courts and plenty of riding horses and ponies for the kiddies. At
a little distance from the Club is Hartford's Cafe Martinique,
where a dinner for two, with a couple of preprandial drinks, wine
with the meal and a liqueur afterward, would run, with tip, be-
tween forty and fifty dollars, but confirmed francophiles would
not feel that they were being "had," for their dinner could as well
be at Maxim's. One of the rooms is a Maxim replica arid every-
thing in the Caf6 Martinique, furniture, vaiselle, argenterie, na-
pery, decorations, vintage lampposts, even the paneling, was im-
ported from France.
Now a grand anticlimax: I must report that all this high-cost
luxury could not be made a paying proposition with so small a
hotel-club, so Paradise Island was put up for sale late in 1964. The
Ocean Club was closed, but Paradise Beach stayed open, the ferries
running as usual. The future is a question mark. Time will tell.




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