IN THE WIND
What to see and how to cut costs
in the West Indies, the Bahamas,
by William J. kedgrave
of the Globetrotters Club
1954, 1957, 1958, 1959,
Greenlawn, New York
FHARIAN PUBLICATIONS GREENLAW
Trade Distributor: Crown Publishers
N, NEW YORK
1 ABLE OF CONTENTS
? To Sightsee ... or Sojourn 10
arlan's West Indian Island Selector 13
Chapter II Climate Around the Caribbean 15
Chapter III What to Take 20
Chapter IV Seeing the Islands 24
Getting Around America's Inner Sea 26
Cut-Rate Cruises 33
Chapter V Add Travel Sense to Your Travel Dollars 35
Chapter VI Going Native 39
Turks and Calcos Island 64
Glimpses of Old Spain
Dominican Republic 79
Puerto Rico 84
Cayman Islands 105
Virgin Islands Roundup
U. S. Virgin Islands 120
British Virgin Islands 131
Spanish Virgin Islands 133
Colonial Hors d'oeuvre
Let's go Dutch
Netherlands West Indies 134
French Without Fears
French West Indies 149
Beewees for Bargains
British West Indies 164
Insuring Your Car in Cuba 9
Sunbathe in Comfort 14
What the Gulf Stream Does 19
Pick Your Own Package Trip 23
Shopping . . before and after 84
Cruising Trade-Blown Tropic Seas for Free 182
- i,*. 1;:'1":::; ~~`
All maps appearing in this book are by courtesy of the Alcoa
rHIS BOOK CONTAINS NO ADVERTISING, PAID OR UNPAID. EVERi
ESTABLISHMENT AND TOURIST OR TRAVEL SERVICE IS LISTED SOLELY
ON ITS INDIVIDUAL MERITS.
A American Plan, bed and all meals
BP Bermuda Plan, bed and breakfast
CP Continental Plan, bed and breakfast
d double occupancy
D & P develop & print
DR dining room
L Low priced
M Medium priced
MAP Modified American Plan, bed and all meals except lunch
o.w. one way
r.t. round trip
s single occupancy
VE Very expensive
(Hotel rates throughout this book are quoted in abbreviations thus: LA-low priced,
offering American Plan; SI, WM-inexpensive in summer, medium priced in win-
ter; or a combination of these and other symbols listed above.)
------I ---- ..--.-..----------------- I
Paradise is an Island
nothing ... absolutely nothing stops you locking your front door, leaving
the cat with neighbors, and looking or loafing on Caribbean shores this
year. And only two valid reasons prevent a jack-rabbit take-off. You are
either short of time, or short of money.
Reconsider the short-of-time bogey. It isn't necessary these days to be-
come a tropical tramp or to forsake everyday comforts to get more than a
glimmer of the Caribbean's timeless appeal. Planes hop as easily but more
quickly and regularly than birds from island to island, large and small Cuba
is only thirty minutes from Florida. No other major West Indian island is
more than nine hours flying time from the U.S. With only a long weekend
to spare, you'll find unbelievable vacation variety in the thousand-mile-long
Greater Antilles. Or Christopher Columbus forbid, you might even whoosh to
Bermuda, the Bahamas, or Cuba and back in a single day!
Caribbean shipping moves more sedately. Yet inter-island passages are
still only a matter of hours and minutes while a leisurely overnight cruise
from Florida offers the choice of good mornings in English, Spanish, or
French. Make the highlights of all the Caribbean comfortably shoehorn into
a two-week vacation. Or spend a month there and complete a world tour
So where do you live? In southern Florida? Then advance the hands on
your watch by one hour. In the deep South? Shove them forward three
hours. Or somewhere in the latitude of New York or Chicago? Then make
it a total of six hours. That's just how long it takes to swap drab everyday
surroundings for more exciting and completely foreign vacation settings
cradled in warm palm-fringed seas.
Short of money? Still no need to shie. The Caribbean no longer be-
longs to film stars and monied executives. Oh, they're still around. But for
every one of their swank resort hotels where the living is as high as the
prices, you'll unearth several right-priced commercial hotels or guest homes.
It's the same way with Caribbean travel. Travel first class as the fancy dic-
tates but tourist fares get you around just the same, sometimes on identical
planes. On ships, too, pay what you can afford. Space is usually offered in
three classes. And between the smaller islands, snap at lowly third or deck
passages. They are an absolute steal for short-run daylight voyaging.
Shopping the native markets might give more thrills than island sight-
seeing or beach lounging. No time is wasted searching for giveaway values.
The Caribbean bulges with the world's finest collection of handicrafts in
china, glassware, textiles, jewelry, cigars, rum, and souvenirs. And watch the
wife drool over purchases selling for 60% less than for comparative items in
the US. And come to think of it: where else but in the Caribbean are there
miles of eye-interest from a bus window for 6#; a cup of the finest
coffee for only 35; or a clean if plain room beside a regular Robinson
Crusoe beach with all meals for as little as $6, well... $5, maybe $4, and
if the hide is hard and the purse really slender, sometimes even less per per-
son per day.
Opportunities to write your own minimum cost for a Caribbean vaca-
tion are staggering. Scrape together only $30 and you can still enjoy seven
eventful days beneath foreign skies. One-way fare from Florida is another
$10-$20 per person, or only $6 each if you'd rather travel by steamer.
Think again. One single week's take-home pay will cover all vacation costs
overseas and still leave enough for a last-night splurge. Trouble with langu-
ages? Hardly ever. English is understood everywhere. Nor is it necessary to
fumble with foreign currencies if you'd rather pay in U.S. dollars and cents.
You'll probably pay extra for the convenience. But still your tropic island
vacation costs less than ever you thought possible.
With adequate time and money, nothing else really matters. Touring
the Carribbean is as easy as driving from Bar Harbor to Balboa. Sure you'll
find climatic variations; more things to see than quaint harbors and oft-
mentioned beaches; about the usual ratio of atmospheric cities and sights;
every recreation, sport, and entertainment you're accustomed to follow at
home; and happily, practically no restrictive local laws.
Suppose you try it? You'll never sigh for a return to orderly living after
your first Caribbean visit .. or the last. The only bustle in the islands is
the early morning scramble to be first across golden sun-warmed sands into
a boisterous surf or mirror-like eggshell blue tropical lagoons. The
only incessant activity common to all Caribbean islands is the soothing
caress of trade winds in your hair, and the lazy yet tireless overhead rustling
as breezes play tag with feathery palm fronds. Love it? Who wouldn't?
Yet there's heaps more glamour to Caribbean vacationing than kicking
off your shoes, getting a deep tan, sipping long rum drinks with local offi-
cials on breezy verandahs while waiting for the nightly color pageant of
the famed sunsets, or dancing half the night to calypso strains. But it is a
long story. Make yourself comfortable before we look more closely. There's
nothing new to the exciting prospect of taking a tropic isle vacation. But
the chance to make it come true this year is something too good to treat
Millions of years ago, after the Maker finished modeling the North
American continent, He shook the dirt off His hands over the Atlantic
More than five hundred fragments fell into the sea, thereby forming a 2,000
mile chain of enchanting tropic isles. That, according to one imaginative
islander, accounts for the corralling of the Caribbean Sea and the birth of
the West Indian islands. True or not, the story vividly portrays the im-
pression which every traveler receives upon approaching this string of color-
ful tropic-sea stepping stones.
The largest of them, Cuba, is eight hundred miles long; the smallest
are mere rocks and sandy cays. So cose are the links in this island chain that
land remains in sight clear to the South American mainland. Yet these magic
Carib isles, so closely linked in travel time, are poles apart in physical appear-
anc, development, kongage, local casboms, and accessibility. Th islands
exist in every category from swank resort isles to tiny Robinson Crusoe
hideaways. Among them you will certainly find the island of your dreams.
Caribbean scenery encompasses bold jungle-covered volcanic peaks; dry
low-lying coral and limestone outcrops; vast fertile coastal plains; intimate
mountain valleys; superb beaches of every type and size; picture postcard
bays and lagoons; and traditional palm-dotted escapist specks floating upon
a broad tradewind-blown ocean of blue. In addition to resort centre amuse-
ments, you can fish or swim day-long in water so pellucid that boats seem
to float on air; explore coral reefs and caves; seek pirate treasure; hunt or
photograph denizens of the deep; enjoy superb sailing interspersed with
picnics on secluded islets; and by moonlight, skin-bathe with not-so-modest
dusky nymphs against a Garden of Eden skyline.
Side by side you will encounter the time-worn facades of colonizing
Spain, Britain, Holland and France. Bullfights, paseos, baseball, cockfights,
carnivals, cricket, and voodoo ceremonies crowd into every vacation schedule.
Negroes, descendants of African slaves shipped in by West Indian plantoc-
racy to work the now-defunct plantations, top the Caribbean's racial melange.
Jamaica and Barbados offer a picture of Britain in the tropics, right
down to roses in high-walled gardens, afternoon tea at four, sober-faced court
members decked in gowns and wigs, and helmeted truncheon-carrying police-
men. Haiti fascinates with French background and charm... and trumped-
up voodoo ceremonies. The Virgin Islands split all ways to contrast American,
British, Danish, and Spanish backgrounds, and delight everyone with lux-
ury resort hotels and swank yachts in a region where workaday ships are still
driven by the winds, where donkeys take the place of wheeled transport, and
obeah practices die hard. Dutch possessions send you into a tizzy with
widely contrasted topography, distinctive architecture, and gargantuan Orien-
tal-style meals. But you'll also see Chinese storekeepers; Japanese and Portu-
guese market gardeners; East Indian and Syrian traders; British, French and
Dutch "colonials"; remnants of the once powerful Carib race; and along
the Spanish Main, the shy South American Indian.
Because each group clings to its own historic traditions, tourist sights
have universal flavor. You'll find everything from the verandahs, grilled
windows and marble-floored patios of medieval Spain to trim British
bungalows set in spacious gardens; stepped gables and leaded windows from
the Netherlands; French-style cafes; Moslem mosques; Hindu temples; stately
Gothic spires; and huge, richly decorated Catholic cathedrals.
Inter-island transport runs the gamut from jet planes, sleek cruise
ships and passenger-carrying freighters to the atmospheric sail ships and
launches. In Dominica you can even voyage in sea-going dugout canoes. On
the Isle of Pines you speed along marble-topped highways. In Haiti, open-
sided buses plough through swollen streams, or wallow through a sea of mud
to reach the interior during summer months. Many of the smaller off-beat
isles are without wheeled transport You ride horseback or walk along
narrow trails. Buxom girls follow, Africa-style, with your traveling bag
perched atop their fuzzy heads.
Natnr, too, abounds with ontmwe. Islands have popped up from the
ea off Trinidad, only to vanish again. Mona Island's weird caves are said
o be haunted after several adventurers disappeared without further trace.
Volcanoes, geysers, springs and boiling lakes bubble with activity. Summer
sunsets are spectacular; so are rainbows, mirages, and night skies alive with
flitting fireflies. Stars are such as you've never seen before, more numerous
than in temperate zone skies and all gleaming more brightly than newly
Towns on Nevis and Jamaica have sunk beneath the ocean. Old hulks
litter the jagged reefs from Cape San Antonio in Cuba to the Spanish Main
and beyond. After centuries hidden under the sands, or tucked away in bat-
filled caves, pirate treasure still turns up. There are islands where oysters
grow on trees; where dazzling green and blue lizards impart a prehistoric
grandeur to otherwise arid, uninteresting terrain; where mongoose are so
destructive that only townsfolk are able to keep chickens.
On most islands, negro womenfolk remain beasts of burden, working
the fields or carrying produce to market. Their menfolk are fishermen or
seafarers; most are active smugglers. They are plain and simple people, like-
able when known, and interesting for their fervent belief in supernatural
forces. The practices of Obeah (a form of witch doctery) are still prevalent
among the smaller islands.
Official regulations in the Caribbean are nothing to worry about. Tour-
ist cards, when needed, are issued on the spot. Details for individual islands
appear throughout the book but should be verified with travel agents for
latest rulings. At present all you need to visit the twelve top Carribbean re-
sort islands is a birth or naturalization certificate. Several island governments
expect visitors to show evidence of forward transport before disembarkation.
But if you travel with adequate funds, look presentable, and act courteously,
this ruling is seldom enforced. One emphatic exception is Martinique. Full
details are given under that heading.
Customs regulations are lenient although American cigarettes are usual-
ly dutiable in excess of one or two cartons. When leaving the States, register
all valuables like foreign-made binoculars and cameras at your port of exit.
This simple procedure will prevent delay or misunderstanding upon reentry.
Returning residents can import $200 worth of purchases duty free for Carib-
bean trips exceeding 48 hours, provided thirty full days elapse between trips.
Or up to $500 worth for twelve-day stays or longer with six months between
visits. Minor restrictions apply to certain commodities, even if you do not
use your full exemption allowance. Expensive cameras are limited to one
per person. Some perfumes are totally prohibited; some are limited to one
bottle; since there is no ruling regarding the size, buy the largest bottle you
can get, provided its contents do not exceed 3 ounces.
Another welcome concession for shoppers concerns gift packages. If
dearly marked as such, and valued under $10, these may be mailed duty free
to friends or relatives. Alcoholic beverages, bulk perfumes, and tobacco are
ineligible. These items are not deductible from your regular $200 or $500
exemption allowance although duty is payable if more than one package is
delivered at a time.
Most island governments restrict the importation of local currency;
otherwise red tape is at a minimum. There's no trouble deciding how to
carry travel funds. Travelers checks in denominations of $50 or less are best
with an ample supply of $10 checks to cover short-term visits to smaller
islands, or to tide you over to the nearest frontier. Never leave the islands
with excess local currency or you'll suffer heavy discounts trying to con-
vert them. Cook's travelers checks are issued for a service charge of 75* per
$100. American Express and most banks charge $1 per $100.
Isn't it as the travel posters say, the Caribbean can be yours for a
minimum of fuss and bother, whether you're staying just a few days, a week,
or several months?
INSURING YOUR CAR IN CUBA
Insurance coverage for your car is available from the steamer ferry
office in Key West or through the steamship company transporting your
car to Cuba. The American International Insurance Company issues the
policies. The premium is $15.60 for a one month stopover and it covers
fire, theft and collision claims; up to $100 deductible per accident; $5,000
property damage liability; and $10,000 for bodily injury or death. Total
liability per accident is limited to $25,000. Such policies can be extended
for as many as five additional periods of thirty days each for $5 each
additional thirty day period. The above rates are slightly lower than
you'd pay for similar coverage in Mexico.
I------------____------i-- -- -- - - -
To Sightsee . or Sojourn?
Despite the wonderful variety of Caribbean isles, there are only two
types of islands: those that invite a long stay or those only worth a brief
visit. All the larger islands offer excellent recreational opportunities. Many
of the smaller islands, too, are fine places on which to spend some time. The
majority, however, are little more than sun, sea, and sand as far as visitors
are concerned. Unless you can amuse yourself, or seek only rest and relaxa-
tion, most of the smaller islands are best regarded as short-term stopover
points while traveling between the larger islands. All are worth an overnight
halt. But with thirty or more to choose from, selecting the best to fit into
your time-hungry itinerary can be a major problem.
For this purpose, Harian's West Indies Island Selector was compiled
Thirty-four principal islands are cross-indexed with the twenty most desirable
features necessary to promote pleasurable vacation activities. Included are
the percentage of first class hotels, striking scenery, local color, and whether
English is spoken or not. Each of these attributes is awarded a score thus:
1 minimum interest
2 fairly good
3 quite good
Let's check the listing to discover which islands promise the maximum
tourist appeal. Cuba, Venezuela and Jamaica rate 67 points each. Per-
sonal preferences determine which of the three vacation lands suit you
best. Budget travelers would certainly name Cuba since vacationing on
modest means is easier there than in Venezuela or Jamaica. And, by referring
to the "How to Get There" section, it is discovered that the expense of
getting there is lowest. Perhaps, though, you stipulate an English speaking
island. Or are you planning a shopping spree? In either case, Jamaica has
most to offer on both scores.
Among the smaller W.I. islands, perhaps Nevis and Union come near-
est to your version of a paradise isle. Narrow your choice in this way: you
can circle Nevis by bus or car whereas Union has no public transport. But
Union Island is offbeat, tropical, and spectacular scenically. However,
you must also consider that it is much farther from the U.S. and slightly
more difficult to reach. Nevis has the best accommodations. But Union is
unsurpassed for fishing and boating activities. Yet Nevis might still gain
preference, despite its lower rating, if you consider tennis a necessary ad-
junct to vacation enjoyment.
No claim is made to exhaustiveness or infallibility in this table. What
represents eye-fetching scenery or local color to this author may not appeal
to every reader. Nevertheless, some form of island evaluation is better than
none. Therefore, if you treat the Island Selector as a guide, rather than
definitive recommendations, your answer to the gnawing vacation question,
Whue ar the BEST vacation iatnds in the Caribbean, caonot klog rns ia
One vital topic not discussed in this table is the costwise comparison
of island living. Unless swank resort hotels or gourmetizing are your prime
vacation attractions, you might want to reduce the length of your stay in
the Greater Antilles. Compared to those in the Lesser Antilles, vacation
costs are inflated. But if you must stick to the larger islands, Haiti offers
best value, dollar for dollar. Island size is no criterion when estimating
costs. The tiny Cayman Islands are quite expensive. Likewise, the offbeat
British Virgin Islands are no bargain because most foodstuffs are imported
from the United States. Likewise, all French islands are expensive places on
which to stay. Only the bargain Beewee isles offer inexpensive vacationing
and sojourning. For rock bottom rates, nothing surpasses the larger Wind-
ward Islands. Yet the Grenadines have no peer for escapist living.
What you get for your money
No matter what your taste or pocketbook, tropic sea vacations are
within easy reach. Smart luxury **** resort hotels vie with the finest in
the U.S. Smaller, less ostentatious *** places and modest low priced **
guest houses are everywhere.
Tourist agents reserve rooms in **** and *** categories, or at board-
ing houses in Kingston and Nassau. Otherwise you fend for yourself. In
doing so, however, remember that only students and seasoned travelers
stay at the establishments. Daily rates at unlisted places give an accurate
idea of the type of service and food to expect.
The easiest way to cut accommodation costs is to vacation during the
off-season, May to November. Not only do you get better rooms for less
money at that time, but also more personal attention.
You can marvel at rates 10%-60% lower than peak levels. All rates
given here are minimum rates, and all are quoted in U.S. dollars. Summer
rates are identified by the preceding letter "S"; winter rates by "W." You'll
soon discover summer rates are not always the lowest Climatic reasons ac-
count for high summer and low winter rates in Bermuda. And now that
Cuba, Puerto Rico, and the Dominican Republic actually play host to more
visitors in summer than winter, the size of seasonal reductions becomes less
Never budget a trip on minimum rates. Several reasons might combine
to compel the payment of higher rates from island to island. The need for
a rigid itinerary and advance reservations is less imperative during summer
if medium-comfort accommodations satisfy. But be prepared to find that
better class hostelries on smaller islands served by airlines are always near-
to-full capacity. Other reasons for paying more than minimum rates might
be the desire for a room with a private bath (not always available); a room
with a view; or special facilities for children.
Distinct seasonal savings are found at resort hotels in Cuba, Jamaica,
the Bahamas, Virgin Islands, Barbados, and Antigua. Elsewhere, bargain for
bargains. For instance, rooms at the **Plaza in Port au Prince are quoted
at $6As. Budget travelers easily get 50 a day discount. Similarly, pay less at
older Havana hotels, or in vacation areas where new resort hotels have re-
cently snatched the monopoly from long-established guest homes and native-
style hotels. Never make European Plan reservations in the Caribbean unole
you know what you are doing. And remember that once you leave the major
tourist centers like Havana, Port au Prince, San Juan, St. Thomas, Port of
Spain, and Willemstad, non-hotel dining rooms are either inadequate or
Housekeeping apartments grow in popularity. Cottages are available on
most islands and private homes less so. As the latter are seldom available
the year around, contact a local real estate agent for current offerings and
rates. If no realtor is listed in the Other Useful Addresses section, query the
local tourist bureau.
Apartments in the Bahamas range from $12 a day with bed and
breakfast in summer, $15 up daily in winter. One-bedroom units rent from
$60 a week, or $80 for two-bedroom places. On Cable Beach, five miles
from Nassau, one-bedroom apartments rent for $12 a day, or $15 for two-
bedroom units. Winter rates are $27 and $37 respectively. Cuba's house-
keeping accommodations are limited to cottages attached to hotels along
the north coast beaches. Winter rates are lowest here since the Cuban high
season is mid-summer.
La Rada, in San Juan, offers air conditioned one and two-room units,
complete with swimpool and private beach facilities, for $10 single, or $14
double. Also good are the Gallardo apartments starting at $5 a day. Half a
dozen other places have similar offerings but short term sojourns are not
encouraged and early reservation is essential.
On St. Thomas, in the U.S. Virgin Isles, cottages rent from $15As a day
with reductions for extended stays. At Caneel Bay, St. John's, cottage colony
living starts at $175 a week, everything provided. St. Croix rates are $75
a week for two-bedroom places in Christiansted, or $90 monthly for three-
bedroom apartments. Chances of securing a private home on Vieques are
variable; when available, rents are $45 a month for four-room country
residences. The Jamaica Tourist Board provides a listing of tourist apart-
ments and rates upon request.
Elsewhere, housekeeping opportunities are spotty. Nevis has a fine sea-
shore home for rent, $90 a month. There are vacation cottages at Reduit
Beach, St. Lucia. On Bequia several homes are rentable from $20 a month.
For limited periods you can stay at government rest houses on Cannouan,
Union Island, or Carriacou although living conditions are back-to-Nature
style. Servants are readily available to perform the chores. Grand Anse
beach on Grenada is lined with palm shaded bungalows available from
$15 a week. Further details of the above accommodations appear in the
Where To Stay directories throughout the book.
HARIAN'S WEST INDIAN ISLAND SELECTOR
FACIIMIES | 5 a l
a0 a ,
First Class Hotels 4 4 2 4 4 4 4 4 4 1 3 2 2 1 2 4 4 4 3 2 1 2 1 2 2 2 2 1 1 3 4 4 3 4
Restaurants 4213243331 111 1132111212111 1 122214
Night Life 4 4 1 4 4 4 3 3 3 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 2 1 1 1 1 1 2 2 1 1 1 1 1 3 3 14
StrikingScenery 2 4 1 4 4 3 1 1 2 3 3 3 2 3 4 3 22 2 3 2 3 4 3 4 4 4 4 3 4 3 4 3 4
Worthwhile Sights 321433 2 2 2 13 2 1 1 1 2 3 2 4 2 2 2 1 2 2 1 1 1 1 3 3 14
Beaches 4 4 4 2 2 3 44 34 4 2 2 1 1 4 3 1 1 3 2 3 4 3 4 2 4 4 3
HillRetreats 23- 4 3 3 - 2-- 1 -3 - 2- 1 1 ---313-4
Climate 3342222 4 2 444333433432122233334 2 1 2 2 2 3 3 3 3 4 2 3 3
english Speaking 2 4 4 2 2 3 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 1 2 3 2 3 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4
Local Color 22142211211211423231221322211 2 3 3 1
Shopping 2 4 1 4 3 2 3 3 4 1 2 1 1 1 2243211 2 2 3 2 1 1 1 3 4 4 1
Air Service 4 4 2 4 4 4 4 4 3 1 3 2 1 1 3 4 3 4 2 1 3 2 3 3 1 1 1 3 4 4 3
Transport 4 2 1 2 2 3 3 2 2 1 2 2 1 1 2 2 3 2 2 1 1 2 1 2 2 2 - 1 2 3 3 2
Tours 4 41323322-211112312--31332---33324
Spectator Sports 4 2 1 3 2 3 3 2 2 1 3 1- 2 2 2 1 ---2 3 3 1 4
Fishing 4 3 2 2 3 4 4 2 2 2 1 1 3 33 3 1 1 2 2 2 3 2 3 4 33 3 2 3 4
eating 3 4 2 2 2 3 4 4 3 2 3 2 1 1 3 3 2 4 - 1 1 1 2 1 3 4 4 3 3 3 2 1
Fool Swimming 44 2 3 3 4 4 3 3- - - - 3 - - - 1 - - - 3 2 -
golf 44-332432-2 33----- ----1---24424
Tennis 4 4 3 34 3 3 2 1 1 41 1 12 2 2 - 3 43 33
Sunbathe in Comfort
Lobster-like faces and slowly-shedding skins are neither nice nor natural
features on homo sapiens. Yet congeneric deafness being as much in vogue
as (and more dangerous than) at northern beach resorts in summer, it
seems pointless to suggest sunbathing precautions. But maybe you've got
the itch to tell fellow-sufferers what should have been done to prevent ex-
It isn't the easily detected heat and light rays of the sun which burn
your skin while sunbathing. It's the ultra violet rays reflected from the sea
or sands which do the damage. That is why over-exposure often occurs on
overcast days, or while you sit in the shade on a white beach, or aboard
ship beneath an awning.
Sunburn preventatives retard the burning ultra violet rays to give the
heat rays an opportunity to sink beneath the epidermis, or outer skin. The
warmth causes the under-skin pigments to rise to the surface, and darken.
For absolute effectiveness, suntan creams and lotions require constant re-
plenishment if you want to avoid over-exposure to the sun, since sweat
and spray soon disturb the light film protecting the skin. Light-complexioned
persons must be doubly careful
Relatively safe sunbathing periods are before 10 a.m. or after 3 p.m
Exposure to midday sun in the Caribbean should not exceed six minutes on
the first day for blondes or ten minutes for darker persons. Increase exposure
times 50% a day until the fourth day, then by one-third until the ninth day.
By that time, 11-2 hour spells of constant exposure are quite safe. If fre-
quenting black sand beaches, step up exposure times by 25%.
Calamine lotion or olive oil are useful soothers for mild sunburn. Con-
sult a doctor if extensive burning occurs. Regular prescription lenses, if
tinted pink or gray, will appreciably reduce sun glare and eye fatigue al-
though dark green sun glasses are best for eye protection anywhere in the
Caribbean. Spectacle wearers will find glasses ground to their prescriptions
to be most comfortable since clip-on types often cause difficult-to-heal chafing
on the bridge of the nose. For superior service, be sure you purchase sun-
glasses with a curved lens and specify "aviation type" lenses to prevent
uncomfortable peripheral or sideways glare.
[ CHAPTER H
--- ----- ----- ----------
Climate Around the Caribbean
So that we may enjoy year-long shirtsleeve temperatures, millions of
dollars are annually spent in the U.S. to purchase and maintain equipment
to keep people cool in summer and warm throughout winter. Yet at any
season of the year, West Indian visitors revel in similar uniform temperature.
Nor is this personal comfort confined to one room or building, or even
to some localities. With an extravagance that only Nature can afford, air
conditioning is island-wide. For cooling rain showers in summer and almost
constant breezes create a climate as near ideal the year around as you will
find anywhere in this hemisphere.
Warm in winter, cool in summer
Like most tropical lands, the West Indian islands have two seasons-
summer and winter. Unlike our temperate zones, the definition of summer
and winter is determined by rainfall, not by temperature. Certainly,
Caribbean summers are warmer than winter months. But the difference in
mean temperatures, taken at sea level, does not vary more than 50F in Trini-
dad and the Windward Islands, or around 100F throughout the Greater
Antilles. Therefore West Indian summers, though tropical, are far from
uncomfortable. Maximum temperatures with an overhead sun rarely exceed
900F-950F. Year around averages are 780F-820F. The sweltering 100F
readings common to northern U.S. cities or desert regions are quite un-
known. Consequently it is easy to appreciate that with annual extremes
limited to 650F-95F between Cuba and Trinidad, the Caribbean is naturally
warmer than the U.S. in winter, yet cooler in summer.
April and May are intermediate months, a balance between dry winter
weather and summer dampness. Except for the mountainous regions of Haiti,
and to a lesser extent, the Dominican Republic, these months are ideal for
vacationing. Rain, from June until October falls most days lowering after-
noon temperatures, but brilliant sunshine immediately follows the showers.
Temperatures climb imperceptibly to reach a mean high of 870F-89F
throughout July and August, the beginning of the hurricane season. Because
daily temperatures remain fairly constant, visitors experience less enervation
in the tropical Caribbean than in northern heat waves.
Local variations occur. Take Port-au-Prince, the capital of Haiti. Mid-
day mercury readings consistently reach 900F-94F from May until October
because lofty mountains deflect the cool trade winds from the lowland
plain. Other places similarly affected are Port of Spain, Kingston, and Bas-
seterre. All leeward coast towns in the Lesser Antilles are warmer than trade-
wind caressed Atlantic shores. Willemstad is warmer than its outlying
settlements. And the popular north coast resort centres in Jamaica are always
several degrees cooler than Kingston. So despite the overall uniformity of
summer temperatures in the Caribbean, comfort largely depends upon your
ultimate choice of an island or the geographical position of the city or
Cool breezes and periodical showers play a greater part than even temp-
eratures in ensuring body comfort. The constant northeast trade winds are
the island's primary air conditioner. Land-sea breezes, though not as forceful
or prolonged, also help lower temperatures when trade winds subside for
The origin of these winds is interesting. We know that the intensity
of the sun's rays striking on the earth varies with latitude. That accounts
for the difference in daily means between Trinidad, where the sun is almost
overhead, and Bermuda, where identical solar warmth is more widely dis-
persed over the earth because of the greater angle at which the sun's rays
We also know that water expanses absorb heat quicker than land masses.
Therefore during summer days and periods of winter sunshine the air over
the sea remains cooler than above the islands. This is mainly due to the
less absorbent earth-reflecting warmth so that the lower atmosphere is
double-heated. First, as the sun's rays travel earthwards, then as excess
warmth is radiated skywards. This warm air rises over the land and cool sea
air flows in, forming a breeze, to take its place. The process is continuous
along the fringes of the equatorial belt. The cool air is drawn from the sub-
tropics, constantly drawn towards lower latitudes. Normally the direction of
these winds would be northerly. But the rotation of the earth causes deflec-
tion, producing northeast trade winds. Almost all the West Indies and the
Bahamas lie within this trade wind belt.
True northeasterly winds are limited to the winter season. During sum-
mer, winds are variable and veer through east to south. On Barbados the
regular trades give way to southwesterly or westerly winds in July. Light
southerly airs or calms are usual in August and September. November is
unpredictable but the trades gain ascendency in December. Local variations
apply to each island.
Trade wind velocity varies widely. Average wind force in the Greater
Antilles is 12-15 m.p.h., sufficient to raise 2'-3' waves in open waters; in
the Leewards only 3 m.p.h.; up to 12 m.p.h. in Barbados with light airs
lingering after nightfall; while in Tobago the trades falter in strength and
direction so that calms are frequent during summer. Temperature-wise
Puerto Rico and the Virgin Isles remain pleasant in summer whereas Tobago
is definitely warmer than other small islands. On the other hand, the
windward shores of high latitude islands are, in winter, distinctly cool by
Caribbean standards while stiff trade breezes transform Tobago's climate
Summer squalls interfere with trade wind regularity. So do the 40-50
m.p.h. northers which blow two or more days at a time in winter from the
Atlantic kicking up rollers which disrupt fishing operations off the Bahamas,
the Virgin Isles and the Greater Antilles. Otherwise trade winds blow from
9 a.m. until sunset, reaching peak velocity during the afternoon.
April and May experience fewer strong winds than other months. Unless
you are a good sailor, plan extensive sea trips for springtime. Equally good
spells occur during summer but rain squalls, strong winds and even an
occasional full scale hurricane are ever present threats to carefree small boat
voyaging. But as long as you remain in the breeze and keep out of the
midday sun, summer weather in the tropics is a good deal cooler than you
It ni't the heat ... it's the hmnidty
High humidity cuts down the rate of sweat evaporation, produces a
dragging weariness, and in warm climates, increases your susceptibility to
chills unless temperatures remain fairly constant. A relative humidity of
70%-75% is considered the most comfortable range. This percentage repre-
sents the amount of water vapor contained in the atmosphere in relation to
saturation point at a given temperature. Absolute saturation stands at 100%.
Therefore 75% relative humidity designates air that is three-parts saturated.
In the table below the year's average for relative humidity is given for
principal Caribbean cities. Lower percentages prevail at elevations less than
those quoted. Month to month variations are small; the difference between
the wet and dry seasons does not exceed 5%-10%.
Havana .......... 75% .... 78' Martinique ....... 81% .... 13'
Port au Prince .... 63% ... 121' St. Lucia ......... 78% .... 10'
San Juan ........ 76% .... 82' Barbados ......... 67%... 181'
Antigua .......... 69% .... 24' Grenada ......... 75% ... 509'
Montserrat ....... 67% ... 130' Port of Spain ..... 79% .... 72'
Guadeloupe ...... 82% 1.739' Caracas .......... 79% 3,419
Dominica ......... 67% .... 50' Maracaibo ........ 78% .... 20'
Truths on tropical rains
Rainfall in the Caribbean fluctuates widely. Low-lying Curacao receives
16" annually, mostly between October and January. The Virgin Islands,
Anguilla, Antigua, and some of the Grenadines also experience similar
drought conditions. But what is a problem for local householders becomes
a veritable delight to sun-seeking vacationers.
Cuba gets 45" rain annually; Haiti and the Dominican Republic around
56" although variations range from practically none in desert lowlands to
double average rainfall in the mountains. Puerto Rico gets 36"-50" on the
south shore, 60" in San Juan, and 80" upwards on the east coast. Year around
rainfall on El Yunque produces the tropical rain forest in the National Park.
In the Lesser Antilles, average rainfall is: Antigua (leeward coast) 50",
mainly from September to November; Montserrat, 69"-78" according to
altitudes; 80" in Roseau, Dominica, but treble that amount in the forested
mountains (August and September are the wettest months, February-March
the driest); Martinique and St. Lucia receive most rain from July to Sep.
tember, and least from January to May although showers can be expected
at all seasons; St. George's, Grenada, gets 77" annually although Point Saline,
only five miles away has a distinct vacation advantage with its scant 39".
Trinidad rainfall varies from 100" along the northern mountain range
to 60" along the leeward shore. Most rain falls around dawn. In Venezuela,
December to April are the driest months.
Windward shores, of course, receive heavier and more frequent rains
than leeward sites. Resorts at sea level are drier than elevated districts. Tor-
rential rains accompany hurricanes and most small island landowners, as on
Nevis, welcome a near-miss hurricane as good crops result, and water cisterns
Unpleasant as the term "rainy season" sounds, summer months are not
unsuited to vacationing. Raincoats and umbrellas are seldom seen in the
islands because most precipitation occurs late in the afternoon, usually around
the same time or at night. Gathering storm clouds herald the approach of
rain. As showers are generally brief and followed by brilliant sunshine,
Caribbean evenings are almost always pleasantly cool and refreshing. More
important, very few days pass without a full round of sightseeing or sports
activities possible. Then there is always the chance that you might strike one
of the periodic dry spells in August or September, similar to Trinidad's Petit
Careme in October. Only summer visitors see the coral isles at their greenest,
among them Antigua, Barbados, and the Virgin Islands; the magnificent
double and triple rainbows; riotous sunsets; or starlit tropic skies ablaze with
a brilliance unknown to northern climes.
Maximum sunshine and minimum precipitation during winter have
rocketed the West Indian islands' reputation as topnotch tourist havens.
Naturally, variations exist along the 2,000 mile long island chain. Cuba has
the lowest winter temperatures due to U.S. continental influence. Havana's
mean low in January, the coolest month, is 650F; south coast locations are
slightly warmer. East and south of Cuba, temperature and rainfall gradually
rise... with this exception; all islands between Puerto Rico and Guadeloupe
get little rain apart from that falling upon higher windward locations. The
warmest of our escapist isles is Curacao with a mean of 74 F. The
Bahamas and Bermuda are subject to cold "snaps" but the warm Gulf Stream
limits these cool winter spells to a day or two at a stretch.
Frost is unknown at sea level but hill stations in Hispaniola get oc-
casional 32*F readings in January and February.
Latitude vs. Altitude
Now consider altitude because it has a greater effect upon temperature
control than variations of latitude. To bring about a 200F change in average
temperatures at sea level you must travel 3,000 miles north from the Equator.
But allowing 50F drop for every 1,500' climbed, you would only need to
travel a mile in altitude to produce identical conditions. A perfect illustration
occurs in Haiti.
Port au Prince stands at sea level. If the temperature were 84F, you
lower this to 790F by driving five miles up the mountain to Petionville,
1,500'. Ten miles farther is Kenscoff at 5,000', where the temperature would
be 68F. At Furcy, 1,000' higher, it would be down to 640F. Few West
Indian islands have comparable heights with excellent highway and accom-
modations at the various levels. But throughout the Greater Antilles and
along the Spanish Main you can choose just the climate which suits you best
by making altitude work towards providing comfortable vacation environ-
Among the more attractive cool upland resorts are the Cuban spas;
Jamaica's Blue Mountains, Mandeville and Christiana; Constanza and Jara-
bacoa in the Dominican Republic; El Yunque, Cidra and San German in
Puerto Rico; Dole, Guadeloupe; the mountains above Port of Spain; Caracas,
Venezuela; and Cali, Medellin or Bogota in Colombia. If you are content
with native-style hotels, or sojourning in local residences, your choice of cool
hill localities is even wider.
A Word About Hurricanes
Hurricane is a Caribbean word for "evil spirit" And as far as tourists
are concerned, evilness is confined to the word. August and September are
the danger months with late July and early October subject to occasional
visitations. Cuba, Haiti, the Dominican Republic, Puerto Rico, the Bahamas,
and Guadeloupe experience most hurricanes. Only Trinidad and Tobago and
the Spanish Main may be regarded as outside the hurricane zone while
Barbados, Grenada and Grenadines remain singularly free of damaging
windstorms for long periods.
The first of these much publicized cyclonic storms forms in the Carib-
bean during June and July and usually crosses Jamaica and Cuba before
recurving into the Atlantic. In August, most hurricanes form in the Atlantic
to cross a line Guadeloupe-Puerto Rico-Bahamas. By September they some-
times cut across the Windward Islands, twist northwards toward Puerto Rico
to disperse in the Atlantic before reaching Bermuda. Freak storms and un-
expected developments, however, keep weathermen hopping.
At formation, a hurricane may be 20-30 miles wide. In particularly
vicious types, they may broaden to as much as three hundred miles across
before breaking up. On its westerly leg, a hurricane moves about 12 m.p.h.,
stepping up to 17 m.p.h. on the recurve. Daily mileage varies from 250-420
miles. Wind forces range from 75-100 m.p.h. Instances of wind measuring
gear being wrecked are not uncommon.
As far as tourists are concerned, much of the danger is overstressed.
Advance information by radio allows planes to bypass the affected area while
ships are enabled to steam away from the troublous storm centre. Ashore,
masonry buildings (even if poorly built) are rarely affected. Native shacks,
however, frequently suffer extensive wind damage. There is no telling where
hurricanes will strike. Several may visit a given area within a short period,
then not reappear for a long interval.
Waterspouts are miniature tornadoes and easily recognizable with a
base up to 1,000' across at sea-level, rising like a snake charmer's serpent to
reach the clouds. They occur most frequently during the hurricane season
but seldom last longer than ten or fifteen minutes. Damage to well-found
ships is comparatively rare.
WHAT THE GULF STREAM DOES
Equatorial currents from the South Atlantic pass between
the West Indian island chain between Trinidad and Martinique
to fan out over the entire Caribbean. The main stream hits
the Central American coast, is deflected north, and enters the
Gulf of Mexico at 1-3 m.p.h.
This southerly pressure upon the Gulf waters raises the
level 2" above the Atlantic and induces a warm current, fifty
miles wide at its narrowest point, 2,000' deep, and flowing
from 2-6 m.p.h., to round the southern tip of Florida and
follow the US. coast northeastwards towards Bermuda, aided
on its way by the rotation of the earth.
With a minimum winter temperature of 750F, or 84F in
summer, the Gulf Stream greatly modifies the climatic ex-
tremes common to the US. land mass. As a result, the Bahamas
and Bermuda enjoy more favorable weather than their lati-
tude would otherwise allow. Bypassing both island groups, the
Gulf Stream eventually reaches northern Europe where the
last vestige of tropical warmth prevents ice-ups in several
Norwegian Arctic Circle ports.
- _-------------- --- ------*----*-II-
What to Take
Air travel with a 66-pounds first class free baggage allowance, and 44-
pounds limit for tourist passengers brought about what grumbling men
tried to accomplish in generations, namely a reduction of family baggage to
as much as can conveniently be carried by the travelers themselves. By
handling your own luggage you also lengthen its life and slash porter costs
to a minimum.
There was a time when no well dressed woman traveled without a
couple of sturdy trunks, a variety of smaller hand cases, a dressing case, and
several hat boxes. Today, by scientific packing, she can remain fashionable
yet "live from a suitcase." Most will perform marvels from two cases and
a harbox. Men, unless wining and dining at top spots, get by nicely with a
single case or two for extended travel
The secret of successful packing is to leave behind anything that is
difficult to pack or keep smart. Pleated blouses and dresses are best left at
home. Otherwise, just make a pile of the items you cannot possibly manage
without, then select a suitcase or bag large enough to hold half of that amount.
Probably the primary reason for overpacking is the spectre of getting
clothes laundered on a trip. But in these days of lightweight quick-drying
fabrics, there is no reasonable excuse for packing simply "to be on the safe
side." Though not as absorbent as aertex or cotton apparel, articles in nylon,
Orlon or Dacron prove ideal tropic wear for most persons because they
retain their shape without ironing. I have known adventurers to get by with
a single shirt. Washed at night, it always looked clean and fresh next day.
As more crease-resistant clothes appear, packing problems diminish.
Many linens and cottons, fine texture worsteds and lightweight corduroys
travel well. Evening wear in nylon, silk, or taffeta and wool georgettes pack
nicely; moreover, they need little grooming to keep them smart throughout
an entire vacation trip.
The best clothes for a Caribbean roundabout are informal, washable
items, similar to Florida wear. Loose fitting apparel is best. But depending
upon the type of trip and duration, clothes emphasis varies. Beach addicts
will pack extra swim togs. Winter visitors to the Bahamas, Bermuda, and
Cuba will take extra light woolens; medium weight woolens are ideal for
hill or mountain sojourning in Jamaica, Hispaniola, or Colombia. Top coats
are unnecessary for active persons otherwise warmly clad. Hill walkers
should take stout walking shoes and a serviceable raincoat. Topees are pure
ornaments; if you need a hat, buy the local straw creations for pennies any-
where in the islands. Furs are for fashion only yet are often seen at swankier
winter resort gatherings in Cuba.
Social dress is as informal as you wish. Ladies require at least two even-
ing dresses at luxury resort hotels, or for cruise ship voyaging. Their escorts
wear white dinner jackets (or black in Bermuda), dark trousers, and bow tie.
At social gatherings like afternoon tea parties or government functions,
women customarily wear hats. Men always wear jacket and tie to lunch at
better class restaurants.
Now the lowdown on evening dress: formal at all seasons at the larger
Bermudian hotels; Bahamas, formal from December through Easter; in-
formal in Havana unless mingling with Cuban elite; formal on gala nights
in Kingston and north coast hotels (light colored dinner jackets permissible
during summer); semi-formal in Haiti or formal at year-end parties and
government affairs; formal at top Dominican Republic hotels; optional
throughout Puerto Rico and the Virgin Isles; informal in the smaller British
islands with jacket and tie expected for diners almost everywhere; French
and Dutch islands, qu'te informal; white dinner jackets at Barbadian resi-
dential clubs; and semi-formal in Trinidad.
Taboos are limited. Nowhere is it good taste for women to appear on
the streets in backless dresses, two-piece swimsuits, abbreviated shorts, or
slacks. Knee length shorts, however, are acceptable as sportswear on British
islands. Men wear lightweight dark suits in upland Latin cities or Palm Beach
and linen suits in the lowlands. Sportswear in Latin lands is limited to small
town life, or recreational pursuits.
Travel Light, Travel Bright
Just as vacation plans control what you wear, so your mode of travel
determines the best luggage to use. How you handle your luggage is im-
portant, too. As a young traveler I logged several thousand miles of foreign
travel with a fragile cardboard case, cost $1.00, held together with a web-
like contraption of cheap leather straps. Key to its long life was keeping
weight to a minimum, and to carrying my own bags to prevent damage by
Apart from the old-time cabin trunk which remains unbeatable for
cruise ship voyaging, lightness and convenience take precedence over rug-
gedness and appearance when buying luggage. There is no ideal compromise
for combination plane, ship, train, and bus travel. But basic rules help smooth
out luggage problems however you travel. To start with, never get a case
larger than 30" by 20" by 10". Some travel agents (who ought to know
better) try to sell clients large pullman cases said to be ideal for Caribbean
voyaging. Have no truck with them. Anything larger than a 30" case is in-
convenient to handle on buses or trains. For utmost ease, take two cases,
both light enough to carry when necessary. Let the smaller case serve as an
overnight bag. For women, especially the air traveler, a roomy shoulder
strap handbag is essential because these are usually not weighed by the
airlines. Yet they carry your heaviest possessions quite readily. Remember,
too, that most reading material may also be carried by hand and free of
charge. If you buy new clothes en route, avoid excess weight charges by
discarding travel-worn items. Hotel maids welcome the gesture. Next, get
quality luggage. Though seemingly high-priced for the two-week-a-year
vacationer, the investment pays in the long run. (Unless, of course, for $1.75
up per week, you prefer to hire from Rent-A-Bag Service, 743 Fifth Avenue,
New York 22.) Good leather bags outlive imitations and substitutes if
preserved with saddle soap. Give new life to dried-out leather bags by apply-
ing two coats of Ramcote flexible paint over a sealer. It is washable, fade-
and mildew-proof, and will not crack or peel Twelve colors are available,
all at $2.60 a pint from Wayne Products, 2757 Hawthorne St., Franklin, IIl
Plastic bags are stain-and scuff-proof, and wipe clean with a damp
cloth. Waterproof canvas or linen covers are serviceable and wash dean with
soap or scouring powder. Nylon fabrics are suitable only for light hand lug-
gage. To prevent metal corrosion, grease all hinges and locks.
Zips make extremely efficient fasteners and prevent embarrassing
moments occasioned by inefficient or insecurely fastened locks. But adven-
ture travelers find cases equipped with safety straps less susceptible to
damage on buses and schooners. Also, adventure-style baggage should not
exceed 21" by 15" by 10". Something to slide beneath bus seats or fit over-
head racks is worth considering where extensive rail or bus travel is planned.
Maximum luggage size for hand luggage on planes is 21" by 13" by 8".
Most airline ticket counters have a specimen rack to measure cases. If your
case is too large, into the hold it goes. Haversacks are not a good buy at any
price. They are too unwieldy to fit snugly into luggage compartments, and
seldom lie snug atop the spacious roofs of foreign buses.
For long service and general adaptability (unless you carry breakables)
nothing is finer than a stout canvas bag fortified with two hefty leather
straps. Be sure it has handles so that it carries like a grip.
Leather grips are almost as versatile but less sturdy. Beware the types
fitted with two side pouches and underside zip openings. Customs officers
give these bags special attention. Pouch contents are more liable to damage
and pilfering than inside stowage space.
Internal fittings in any good traveling case should include hanging space
for suits and dresses, pouches for folded clothes and toilet accessories, as well
as a general purpose zip bag for unwieldy items. Never purchase a case
fitted with useless gadgets, racks of bottles, or useless containers. Not only
is the additional weight killing, but foreign customs officers love to unscrew
containers and sniff . one by one.
NOTE: For a leaflet telling In six simple steps how to ship trunks for delivery
abroad write to Amadel Transportation Co., 6 State St., New York City.
WHAT TO PACK
These lists are intended as guides to packing, not specific check lists. Add
or omit articles according to personal requirements, type and duration of vacation,
and season. Starred items represent recommended minimum luggage for male
adventure travelers, or 2-weeks-by-air trips for women.
Dark suit for evening wear
*Slacks (2), preferably washable
*(2) Underwear (3-6)
*(2) Handkerchiefs (4)
*(1) Swim trunks (2)
*Light 2-piece suit (1)
*Cotton dresses (2 afternoon; 2
dressy for dancing)
Woolen dress (1)
*Evening dress, silk print (1)
*Skirts (2) day; 1 evening
*Underwear to personal taste (one
*Walking shoes or sandals (not toe-
less) or low-heeled shoes for city
*Walking shoes, long-life soles
Studs, links, etc.
Hat, if worn
Topcoat, mountain sojourns only
*Woolen socks (2)
Rayon and evening socks (4)
*(1) Sports shirts (2)
Evening shirts (2)
White shirts (2)
*Spare spectacles (take your pre-
*Can and bottle opener
*Halazone tablets, or similar
*Marezine (no prescription needed)
for travel sickness
*Entero bioformo for dysentery (or
Folding coat hanger
*Hat with light veil packablee) or
*Bathing suit (2) with cap and
*Toilet requisites (carry solid per-
*Soap, spare towel, and mirror
*Medicinal kit with sun lotion
*Evening bag (small)
*Handbag large enough to hold
passport (never pack away), tick-
*Blouses (2) to match
Slacks (2) if freightering or sports
Raincoat, nylon (topcoat if nec-
*Evening jacket (or formal blouse)
*Shorts (2) Bermuda-length for
street wear (pedal pushers are
Cleaning fluid, for clothes
*Camera and accessories
*Nescafe, or similar
Traveling iron, international
*Guide Book, paper cover
Non liquid spot remover
Earplugs (for noisy hotels)
PICK YOUR OWN PACKAGE TRIP
Oftentimes an overcrowded agent cannot give you un-
divided attention while outlining package tour possibilities.
So why not write to the addresses below for tour folders and
scan them at your leisure. That way you evaluate the offerings
of half a dozen companies without feeling rushed into mak-
ing a decision.
Commercial Tour Operators
American Express, 649 Fifth Avenue, New York
Thos. Cook & Son, 587 Fifth Avenue, New York
Embassy Tours, 1472 Broadway, New York.
Martin Travel Bureau, Empire State Bldg., Fifth Avenue,
Henderson Travel Service, 41 E. 42 Street, New York 17, N.Y.
Simmons Tours, 441 Madison Avenue, New York.
Happiness Tours, 39 S. State St., Chicago 3, Ill.
United Tours, 329 E. Flagler St., Miami 32, Fla.
I CHAPTER IV
Seeing the Islands
You've fidgeted with pen, paper, and atlas; counted your dollars and
cents; and finally decided to ask your boss for extra vacation time. The
Caribbean sounds too good to pass up for another year. But you still can't
decide the best way to see it.
Luxury cruises sound fine to the neophyte. But so do package tours and
independent trips. If after reading this book, you still can't decide, there's
only one solution. Talk things over with your travel agent; he handles 85%
of all sea and air bookings, so he knows the ropes. He'll show you how to
to do it without sacrificing romance or solid comfort provided you don't
expect to get it for less than it costs to stay at home.
Are Travel Agents Necessary?
If you have modest means yet like to know in advance where you are
going to stay, what you can expect to see, how much it will cost, and all
within a prescribed time, then a travel agent can be your best friend.
A popular misconception is that if you arrange your trip through an
agent, you commit yourself to an unrelenting schedule of "group sightseeing,"
with little or no free time for yourself. This is far from true. Some persons
like this type of travel for the security and companionship it offers. Others
prefer the so-called "independent tours" tailored to meet their individual
requirements. Still others want their agent to arrange only for transportation
to and from their destination, with perhaps hotel accommodations for the
first day or two in a foreign land. So you see, whether your travel agent can
help you or not depends upon the help you give him. Unless you clearly out-
line your vacation wishes, you cannot possibly reap full benefits from con-
To get the special attention you deserve, start planning early. By delay-
ing you will have less choice of accommodation, and often must pay more
for transportation. So that on-the-spot decisions are possible should itinerary
changes be suggested, get to know something about the places you are to
visit, as well as schedules and routings. Work up a rough draft of the trip
you want to complete. List names of islands, cities, sights, types of travel
preferred, accommodation requirements, time available, and the amount you
are prepared to pay.
Present this to your agent. Don't be afraid to ask further questions.
If you show apparent disinterest, few agents will educate you travelwise.
Their job is, after all, to sell travel, with least complications. Planning intri-
cate vacations is time-consuming so for the best service, cram all your begs
in one ask-it. The agent's 5%-10% commission is provided by transporta-
tion companies and hotels. If you utilize an agent's know-how to the fullest
extent, what you get for that travel commission represents one of today's
finest travel bargains.
Much of the secret behind a travel agent's value is that he travels him-
self. He knows the better known tourist routes and all the best hotls. If he
lacks specific information, at least he has a general idea of travel conditions
in all tourist regions. Half a dozen trade publications keep him up to date
between his trips. Therefore in a single consultation you are indirectly pick-
ing the brains of travel agents, editors, and writers in many parts of the
One of the most valuable aspects of a travel service yields no commission
for the agent that of dispensing official data on passports, visas, currency,
health and customs regulations. In addition, you get first-hand free informa-
tion on climate, clothes to wear, tourist sights, and shopping hints.
Nonetheless, agents are not the answer to all travel problems. Most air-
lines, steamship companies, and hotels pay a standard commission. So it is
said that agents have little motive to promote one service or hotel over an-
other. But many West Indian hotel and transport bargains remain little
known because they offer no commission to agents. You find agent-planned
trips patronizing the better known, more frequented travel routes and hotels.
Being well known and well patronized, these facilities are not usually com-
petitively priced. What budget vacationers want are the lesser known and
more reasonably priced travel features. Therein lies one of the main objects
of this book, bringing to the reader's attention more middle-class places and
services with rates below average for the area.
Once you discover exactly which loopholes or dodges can help you to
travel more cheaply, or farther for the same money, you can then instruct
your agent to secure those money-saving services. Few agents willingly cut
their commissions by inducing travelers to spend less on travel. But fewer
still decline to assist shoestring travelers making obvious efforts to get full
value for their travel dollar.
Make Your Own Reservations
Is there any gain in doing so? Yes, but seldom in the transportation
field because the majority of companies forms a conference to arrange mutual
rates for all flights and passages. Even when business is slack, you can't get
special prices although occasional excursion rates are offered.
But the spirit of free enterprise lives on in non-scheduled operations.
Definite cash savings are possible. Supplemental airlines are widely in favor
since schedules these days are regular and reliable. Too, non-scheduled boats
ply the entire Caribbean with competitive regularity; often, there is no other
transport available to many of the islands. And with fares below average
(facilities in keeping), a steady flow of students, adventurers and teachers
discover that non-scheduled transportation makes foreign travel possible at
a time when the higher cost of scheduled services frequently prevents it.
There's a similar setup with Caribbean hotels. You aren't likely to lose
a limb or your life by sleeping in a four-poster bed, or by staying in century-
old hostelries. Competition is stiffer for your patronage, too. In the owner-
managed places you are in an excellent position to bargain, especially during
off-season periods. And when hoteliers see you waiting to sign the register
they are often content to barely cover expenses rather than wait for possible
clients from travel agents paying higher rates. True, agents also secure sum-
mer reductions. But they handle reservations only for better class hotels. So
if it is bargain rate accommodation you want, your travel agent can't do
much to help you.
On the other hand, if agents paid their own hotel expenses while travel-
ing, instead of getting free rooms, you might find them more knowledgeable
on moderately priced accommodations. Only the largest Caribbean cities and
most popular resorts are adequately covered in this direction. And the credit
belongs, not to travel agents, but to local tourist bureaus. You'll have no
trouble in making reservations at the best places. But most travelers get more
satisfaction from a three-day sojourn at a middle class hotel than in a single
day spent at a deluxe establishment. Not only does the lower priced accom-
modation give you more of the local color you left home to find, but it gives
a deeper insight into the everyday life of the people.
Your first few days in a foreign city or island, while you unearth the
local bargains, can be costly. Since most stays are short, you seldom find the
places at the prices you want to pay until it is time to leave. And because
few travelers return a second year to the same place, no benefit accrues from
the discovery. Sojourners are luckier. Their initial losses are equalized over
their entire stay. You'll still save many times the price of this book, and
save yourself a needless change of residence, by utilizing our information. It
is comforting, too, to know where you are going and what you can expect
to pay the moment you step off the gangplank or from the customs shed.
Even if agents had data on low-priced rooms, the small commission
offered would hardly warrant operational expenses involved in making
individual hotel or unscheduled transport reservations. For an extreme case,
suppose you wanted to get space aboard the inter-island launch linking St.
Vincent and Carriacou in the Grenadines, a spectacular 60-mile sea trip
costing $4.50 o.w., and worth promotion for adventure travelers. Commis-
sion on this might be 45c. First deduct the cost of an airmail letter which
secures the latest schedule and fare sheet. Now double it to make definite
Most travel agents should be farsighted enough to recognize the value of
queries for such trips. Today's student or pennysaver is tomorrow's industrial
tycoon, banker, or inveterate globetrotter. This year's $65 "cruise" to Nassau
whets the appetite for more ambitious itineraries. Yet few agents consciously
help you to travel at rock-bottom rates. So if you travel for thrills, excitement,
and with an eye to bargains, the phrase "Let your Travel Agent help you"
seems slightly hollow.
Getting Around America's Inner Sea
For Glamour Vacations . Ship Out
There's nothing to beat tropic sea cruising for quiet relaxation between
strenuous sightseeing jaunts, or to catch up with contemporary tourist litera-
ture. And the Caribbean, blessed with amenable climate, alluring tourist
color, and easy accessibility from the U.S., easily qualifies as the finest cruising
ground in the world.
There you can still find islands where the arrival of your ship siphons
the entire population to the waterfront. Yet visiting thrilling foreign ports
and little known islands is only half the fun of vacationing by ship. Ship-
board life itself offers a fund of zest and romance together with more com-
forts. Even so, this two-vacations-in-one has its drawbacks.
Not many sea voyages are short enough to fit normal vacations. Twelve
days is the minimum in which to see something of the Caribbean. As it taker
4-5 days to reach the West Indies from New York or Canadian ports, it
might seem smart to fly to St. Kitts or Antigua and join a ship there for a
voyage through the Lesser Antilles. Or fly to Havana or Port-au-Prince to see
something of the Greater Antilles instead. But let's face it. Transit passengers
are not welcomed by steamship companies. Naturally, passengers booking
the complete cruise get space preference. So unless you are sporting enough
to gamble on getting a possible berth in the islands, or willing to travel deck
class with colored West Indians, your chances of island-hopping by U.S. or
foreign flag ships are not encouraging. To fly is the only alternative-or to
patronize local transport if adventure-style travel appeals to you.
Ships plying the Caribbean fall into four groups. Luxury accommodation
ratings include Atlantic liners making intermittent cruises from U.S. ports or
smaller deluxe liners specially built for cruise trade. Also there are good to
excellent rooms offered aboard intermediate ships (primarily passenger car-
riers but carrying limited cargo) or twelve-passenger freighters. Discussed
later is the third group, local motor and steam traffic, usually offering
limited plain accommodations, and sloop or schooner traffic, recommended
only for seasoned travelers.
Cruise ship activities and itineraries are planned solely for passenger en-
joyment. Travelwise, emphasis rests upon sea voyaging. Ports of call are not
numerous and stopovers are brief. Excursions are generally arranged but are
incidental to shipboard life. So never join a Caribbean cruise unless your
interest in travel is subordinate to deck lounging, pool swimming, or
mingling with a "young" set in a whirl of social activities.
When making reservations, check whether you get an all-expense cruise.
These run from $55 per person upwards, or from $20 a day on longer runs.
As a rule, drinks, shopping expenses and tips are the only extras. On some
cruises shore trips are extra. If so, to help cut shoregoing costs, circularize
your fellow passengers with the proposition of a joint tour. Most people go
when asked. In choosing a cruise berth, small cabins are quite suitable;
you'll spend most of your time on deck anyway. But unless you turn in late,
or sleep like a log, avoid deck cabins opening to gangways, promenade decks.
or doorways. More and more cruise ships are air conditioned from stem to
stern therefore persons with sinus trouble may want to get a room where
passengers are allowed to close the air ducts or open portholes.
Intermediate ships are sleek, modern cargo carriers accommodating 50-
120 passengers in luxury quarters. Ports of call vary according to the trade in
which the ship is engaged. Most intermediate sailings are scheduled. On
freighters, however, ship movements are flexible. Allow plenty of leeway if
you want to enjoy the trip. Weather, strikes, and cargo commitments upset
itineraries even while the ship is at sea; therefore departure and arrival dates
are always provisional.
No longer are freighter berths available for a song. Caribbean freighter-
ing starts around $15 a day per person. But they still represent a good buy
since you have the run of the ship and get the same food and service as
ship's officers. If you are fussy, the grubbiness of the ships during loading
operations might be considered a disadvantage. This applies mainly to bulk
cargoes such as bauxite, when fine red dust smothers the entire ship and
cabin portholes and doors remain dosed for a day or so. Far better to spend
such intervals ashore.
You'll need a minimum of eleven days to make the shortest Caribbean
cruise from northern waters. That's true whether you prefer to sail on the
direct but leisurely Bull Line steamer leaving New York weekly for San
Juan, P.R., or Grace Line's speedy Venezuela/Aruba/Jamaica circuit. Al-
though limited opportunities occur for shore trips on these short voyages,
it is comparatively easy to increase the time spent in island sightseeing.
You can travel one way by ship and in the opposite direction by plane. To
gain another 2-4 days ashore-and in winter months to enjoy a higher per-
centage of warm sunny days at sea-fly to a departure port in Florida or the
Gulf of Mexico instead of joining your ship in New York or Boston.
Almost all ships are heavily booked on outward runs from Atlantic
coast and Gulf ports. Arranging an air trip to the Caribbean is more often
than not much easier. Too, after studying sailing schedules, you may find it
more convenient to fly direct to a ship's last port of call in the Caribbean
in order to make the homeward passage by sea. A wider variety of sailings
can be considered if you investigate the possibility of disembarking at the
first U.S. port instead of the terminal. Alternatively, you may be able to
spend an extra day or two in the islands. For example, a Royal Netherlands
Steamship Co. ship will carry you from Curacao to Philadelphia in five days.
Yet it takes another two days to reach New York on the same ship. Sim-
ilarly, as a Grace Line passenger you can land at Nassau or Port Everglades
instead of New York. Yet in no way will you forfeit the pleasures of the
advertised 12-day Caribbean circuit because your journey ended on the ninth
or tenth day of the voyage.
Combining Caribbean sea and air travel in this manner does not mean
you must surrender your r.t. fare discount. Inter-line agreements permit one-
way travel by air and a return by sea, or vice versa. Travel agents have the
details. Some of the companies offering sea/air tour privileges are: Incres
Nassau Line/Eastern Air Lines; Panama Line/Pan American; Panama
Line/Avianca. When making your cruise plans, keep an eye open for op-
portunities to get in extra sailing time for little or no cost. Suppose you
head for the Leeward Islands. Don't disembark at Antigua like most pas-
sengers. Continue to Montserrat for an additional $5. Not only will you es-
cape the inconvenience of transferring luggage at a later date to see the
island. You'll save time since launches sail once weekly only, and take
longer to make the crossing. Overall fares are also slightly cheaper. Similarly,
plan to depart from St. Kitts, the last port of call northbound, instead of
If You're Short of Time ... Use Planes
No major Caribbean island is more than a short day's flight from the
U.S. Consequently a week's vacation is sufficient to visit half a dozen of
the largest West Indian islands. With three weeks to a month you'll see
tourist highlights between Cuba and Trinidad, along the Spanish Main, and
for good measure, even get a glimpse of Central America.
Air routes cover the Caribbean like a spider's web so that itinerary
planning looks like child's play. It can be that easy. But only as long as you
are content to travel on one-way tickets, or seek no better value than the
customary 10% reduction given on round-trip tickets. Seasoned travelers
learn to take advantage of money-saving services offered by airline com-
panies. Package trips and excursion fares are important bargain travel fea-
rures in the Caribbean but nothing beats the free stopover plans for air
Stopover privileges are granted wherever planes make scheduled stops.
Sometimes the stay is limited to a day or two. Or it may run into weeks.
Using these stopovers to best advantage therefore lets you visit more islands
en route to your destination without extra cost. With a round-trip ticket you
can actually island-hop the entire Caribbean in a grand circular tour yet
pay no more than the normal round-trip fare to a single destination.
Obviously there cannot be stopovers on non-stop flights, or on short
runs like New York-Bermuda or Miami-Nassau. But see what happens on
longer runs. Cubana Airlines will take you direct from Miami to Havana
for $41 r.t. But for exactly the same fare you can break the journey at Vara-
dero Beach, thus get two vacations for the price of one. Buy an air ticket
to Kingston, San Juan, or Port of Spain and many more stopovers are per-
mitted, still for the price of a ticket to your farthest destination.
Now for the complications. Stopover privileges vary greatly between
competing airlines, according to individual schedules, and whether you travel
first or tourist class. For instance, if you fly from San Juan to Port of Spain,
you can go direct by Pan American Airways for $91 o.w. By another flight
you can visit several islands for the same fare. But to see the greatest num-
ber of islands you must travel BWIA on this routing. This gives a choice of
stopovers at St. Thomas, St. Kitts, Antigua, Guadeloupe, Martinique, St.
Lucia, Barbados, Grenada, and Tobago ... without one extra penny to pay.
By planning the outward and return legs of a trip in this manner you con-
vert short, quick and relatively uninteresting flights into a Caribbean circle
trip where land is never out of sight.
To make the most of free stopover routings, plan your itinerary between
the islands where several airlines converge. Then you get alternative routes
from which to select, and the choice of varied stopover plans offered by
different airlines. These focal travel centers are: San Juan, Puerto Rico; St.
Martin; Antigua; Port of Spain, Trinidad; and Caracas, Venezuela.
Remember the rule about buying your ticket to a destination as far
from your starting point as possible? For most Caribbean jaunts, that means
Port of Spain, or Caracas. The normal tourist class flight from New York
to Trinidad, with a touchdown at San Juan, is $289 r.t. Yet without paying
another cent, you can fly from New York with free stopovers at Bermuda;
San Juan; Virgin Islands; St. Kitts; Antigua; Guadeloupe; Martinique; St.
Lucia; Barbados; Grenada; and Tobago. For your one-way routing you
have seen the pick of the Lesser Antilles. You can return by the same route
and revisit the same islands. Or by paying a supplement of $40-$80 you will
see the remaining highlights of the Caribbean by stopping off at Caracas,
Curacao, Ciudad Trujillo, Port au Prince, Kingston, Montego Bay, Camaguey,
Havana, and Miami before arriving in New York.
Perhaps you haven't time to take advantage of this particular stopover
plan. Or you don't want to spend $370 on transportation. A better buy
might be a tourist class r.t. ticket from New York to Caracas. For a direct
flight you would pay $310 r.t. Pay $13 more and you can stop off at every
island except Tobago in the preceding New York-Trinidad itinerary then
return home from Caracas through Kingston, Montego Bay, and Nassau.
Caribbean circle tours start as low as $67.50 (Miami-Fort Lauderdale-Havana-
Varadero Beach-Nassau-Miami, tickets valid for one year) and $92 (Miami-
Grand Cayman-Montego Bay-Kingston-Miami, 30 day limit). You can also
visit five Caribbean islands for just $147.20. One of the most popular island
hopping itineraries takes you from New York to Bermuda, San Juan, St.
Thomas, St. Kitts, and Antigua for $203.60. For an additional $66.40 you
visit Martinique, St. Lucia, Barbados, and Grenada. Add another $15.50 to
see Trinidad and Tobago. Return direct to New York or via the island rout-
ing. Now you see the complexity of working the stopovers so that you
get the maximum stopovers for the lowest possible fare. Since schedules,
stopovers, and fares are continually changing, get your travel agent or air-
lines office to give you the latest details.
Without this professional guidance you might eventually master the
intricacies of the airline multi-stopover plans. But there's no guarantee you
will discover how the outward leg of one specific stopover plan can be
combined with the most interesting section of another. And you might not
know that the cost of your self-made itinerary is equal to half the sum of
the combined round-trip fares.
Again, you might not discover that greatest savings are made when
you buy an airline ticket for as long a trip as possible. Thus Avianca oper-
ates tourist flights from New York to Barranquilla via Jamaica. The one-way
fare to Jamaica is $106. From Jamaica to Barranquilla is $49 o.w. A com-
bination ticket with a Jamaican stopover (which must be specified at the
time of purchase) saves you $14 although you fly exactly the same distance.
If you are stopover-minded, a conscientious travel agent suggests itinerary
changes that add new stops for trifling sums. To illustrate: between San
Juan and St. Martin, Caribair takes you into St. Thomas for $2 more than
the direct Air France flight. Move farther west. The regular nonstop New
York-Havana tourist class fare is $76.10 o.w. (on a r.t. basis) or $71.55 on a
16-day summer excursion. If you take night coach to Miami, you get an
extra stopover yet save yourself $6.80 in fares. Travel by a supplemental
airline and 29 hour excursion to Havana and you save an additional $5.80.
There are always Family Plan savings to investigate. Finally, let the airlines
arrange island transfer services. It is usually cheaper than dealing with un-
scrupulous taxi operators.
With travel know-how you can even avoid payment of the 10% U.S.
transportation tax, now applicable only to trips inside the USA .. unless
your departure point happens to be the last touchdown in this country. So
make a point of flying direct to your West Indian island whenever it is
convenient or practical.
There are other travel oddities to look for. We know a straight line
between two places represents the shortest possible distance between these
points. But unless you secure and study every available airline timetable, you
never discover that the shortest air trip between two places is not necessarily
the routing offering the lowest fare. More striking, imagine flying part-way
to a destination by first class services to cut the cost of a direct tourist class
flight. BOAC offers non-stop tourist service from New York to the Bahamas
for $76.10 o.w. But if you fly via U.S.O.A. to Miami thence first class to
Nassau, you pay $14.60 less than the direct tourist class fare.
Then there are times when it actually pays to travel first class since
many stopovers are barred to tourist class travelers unless a supplemental fee
is paid. This concerns the non-stop 1st class flight for $68 from Miami into
San Juan. For $18 more you travel with first class privileges and can extend
the trip to include stopovers at Havana, Camaguey, Montego Bay, Kingston,
Port au Prince, and Ciudad Trujillo before reaching San Juan.
So there you have it. Nothing in the realm of air travel can be taken
for granted, not even when you get to the stage that you feel you have the
right itinerary at the right price. Aiming to fly only on the most comfortable
planes opens up another sphere of getting yourself better vacation values.
Special mention belongs to BOAC/BWIA jet prop Vickers Viscount planes.
Flights are smooth, fast, and without vibration; passengers converse in
normal tones because engine roar is absent; windows permit sightseeing
from aisle seats; and take-offs are quick because unlike piston engines,
no warm-up period is required at the end of the runway before each flight.
So far we've dealt only with savings offered on regular flights. Excur-
sion flights give up to 30% savings for air travel undertaken from May to
mid-December if completed within 17-30 days. Stopovers are unlimited in
most instances but actual itineraries and fares change from season to sea-
son. See your travel agent for current offerings. BWIA provides a dozen or
more options, most combining first and tourist class travel while PAA offers
a variety of first class r.t. excursions for less than you normally pay for a
regular r.t. tourist flight. Other excursion offerings are:
DELTA (16-day limit) New Orleans-Havana-Ciudad Trujillo, $110 (save
$13); New Orleans-Havana-Port au Prince, $105.50 (save $14.20).
LACSA (17-day limit) Miami-Grand Cayman, $69 (save $20.70).
VARIG (30-day limit, first class) New York-Ciudad Trujillo, $220.50
(save $17.10); tourist fare is $183.80 r.t., 17-day excursion $114.
CUBANA (30-day limit) Miami-Varadero Beach, $29.95 (save $6.05).
MACKEY (30-day limit) Fort Lauderdale-Nassau, 29 hours, $29 (save $4).
Among a wealth of package deals for Caribbean visitors are many
notable bargains. Of particular interest are Delta Air Lines packages.
If you're on a budget . use sloops, schooners
Here, assembled for the first time, is a comprehensive factual survey of
the exciting, little known topic of West Indian inter-island transportation.
Used in conjunction with the "How to get there, adventure-style" paragraphs
following the descriptions of each island, it means you can now get down to
specific planning for an inexpensive island-hopping vacation.
To casually drift from one island paradise to another aboard romantic
sloops and schooners is every traveler's dream. Until now there has been no
central source of information. As a result, the notion of voyaging under sail
was commonly dismissed as a thing of the past.
That's not so. You can sail storied pirate waters, just as romanticists rave.
Only now you will know where the best connections are made, the type
of ships available, how often passages occur, and most important of all, the
overall cost of a trip. While most of these services lack the comforts and
liberty demanded by women and luxury-loving travelers, there is no substitute
if you want to see, talk, or photograph the islander in his own bailiwick. And
as many students attest, though it might at times be distressing to sit on
hard boards and to miss regular meal hours and the usual tourist facilities
such as lounges and rest rooms, it is far better to travel this way than not
be able to see the islands at alL
But prepare yourself for a surprise. Island-hopping fares are not spec-
tacular bargains. Average rates are 4c a mile. For this you often get a bunk,
without bedding, or a deckchair without extra charge. (One Netherlands
Antilles government schooner charges up to 21c a mile.) But if it's only
cheap travel and plush comfort you seek, far better stay at home, or stick
to the 2c a mile buses running the length of Cuba.
Most inter-island launches have small lounges though some, like MV
Caribbee on the St. Kitts-Barbados run, are fitted with bunk space and chairs
instead. Some schooners provide conventional style bunks below decks. Most
are limited to the two kennels, wooden, box-like arrangements lashed to the
deck each side of the steering wheel. Sliding doors reduce deck noises, or
keep out spray in lively weather. The captain usually surrenders his bed to
women passengers. Men sleep on deck, or more comfortably . and pre-
cariously . on the cabin top. There however, a light coat is needed to
keep warm and dry.
Sloop travel is he-man stuff. Space is more restricted than on schooners,
and dollops of salt water frequently lop over the bulwarks. As freight clutters
the deck, you have the choice of sleeping atop the deck cargo (at the risk
of being decapitated each time the ship alters course), or of joining the
colored crew grouped about the mast. The greatest drawback to sleeping
there is the fact that the "emergency compass", which every sloop carries,
snuggles down with you. For the unenlightened, the "emergency compass"
is a pig. Although primarily carried as emergency rations - extended
calms may keep ships at sea for days at a time - the pig also serves as a
direction finder. If after a hurricane, the compass is lost, the crew fling the
pig overboard. Having a passion for dry land, so I was told, it immediately
strikes out for the nearest island. Once the sloop captain discovers the new
course to steer, the pig is hauled back aboard!
Sloop travel is close to the primitive in other ways. When the bluff-
bowed, heavy-timbered sloops ghost out from half moon bays, where the
drowsy murmur of the surf rises like a song, night departures are poetic.
Out in the velvety gloom, sleep seems impossible. The stars are so bright
you want to touch them. And the eternal slap-slap of waves along the water-
line grows to a contented gurgle around the rudder stock. The twang of a
sailing ship, tarred rope, tallow, and lamp black, is romance itself. The
shudder of canvas and the pleasing purr of well-oiled blocks tells you this
was the stuff that Drake and Morgan knew. Before the spell breaks, dawn
steals up quietly. Islands, rocks, and reefs pop into view and soon, from the
gently heaving, sun-warmed decks, your next island Utopia appears over the
plunging bowsprit end.
Sloops carry four crew members, as congenial a bunch as you could share
boiled fish and rice with, three times a day. Talk with them. Most are active
smugglers. And all have a thrilling fund of yarns once they thaw out. For
an unforgettable vacation experience, there's nothing to equal a voyage on
one of the stick and rag fleet.
Always take food, fruit, and drinks on these adventure trips. Water is
carried aboard in barrels. But better to play safe. Sloops and most schooners
are without toilets but although sailing schedules are unknown, inter-island
trips seldom last more than a few hours at a stretch. Since only the larger
ships are fitted with engines, islands are approached with tantalizing leisure.
Don't fail to take a camera with you.
Highly recommended adventure-style trips
1-St. Kitts-Barbados on MV Car-
ibbee (or similar), calling at sev-
eral British islands with infre-
quent calls at French ports en
route. Bunk or chair is furnished
for the 41 day voyage which in-
cludes a weekend stay on Montser-
rat, and 475 miles of sea travel
for $25 o.w.
2-Guadeloupe-Marie Galante or
Guadeloupe (Basseterre) to the
Miles des Saintes. See the Guade-
loupe chapter for further details.
Departures are thrice-weekly from
Point a Pitre, daily from Basse-
3-Schooner passage from Barba-
dos to British Guiana, 450 miles
of tropic sailing, $22 o.w.
4-Almost 1000 miles of carefree
tropic sea voyaging with fortnightly
calls to as many as a dozen small
islands between Jamaica and Trin-
idad or vice versa for as little as $60
one way per person. Sounds fiction-
al. Yet this is primarily a freight
service. No cabin accommodations
are available. For the short inter-
island runs in the Lesser Antilles,
however, you'll find the covered
deck space quite adequate.
5-For a glimpse of the Gren-
adines, take the Launch CLM
Tannis, or Madinina sailing from
St. Vincent to Bequia (11 miles);
Cannouan (37 miles); Mayero (47
miles); Union (51 miles); or Car-
riaconl (60 miles). The fare from
St. Vincent to Carriacou is less
than $4.50 per person.
motor vessel calling at a dozen
Venezuelan ports, including Mar-
garita Island, with sufficient time
at each for sightseeing. Passages
are available in either direction.
Using the ship as a hotel, this 11-
day trip offers the cheapest way
of seeing Caracas, the world's
most expensive capital city.
7-Out of the bargain class, but
unmatched for a combination of
comfort, convenience, and spec-
tacular scenery, is the 115-mile
Dutch Windward island circuit on
the motor schooner Blue Peter.
St. Kitts back to St. Kitts, a six-
day trip allowing stopovers on
Statia, Saba, and St. Martin,
averages $30 according to the
routing you follow. See the chap-
ter Let's Go Dutch for details.
Pares may be heaven-high but
distances are short. Console your-
self with the thought that it is
only once in a lifetime, anyway.
Something for nothing
The biggest slice of a Caribbean
vacation is transportation ex-
pense. With ingenuity, however,
you can shave costs. Nobody will
tell you how to do it. Half the
fun in "working" your way lies
in dreaming up or stumbling over
To start off, investigate the
prospects of passage-making on
government vessels. Because they
do not normally carry passengers,
the occasional brash request often
meets with flattering success. To
stimulate your penny-pinching
thoughts, consider trips on light-
house tenders; accompanying
government servants on routine or
inspection tours; joining cattle
round-ups on small islands for
the passage to the local abattoir;
or wangling your way into par-
ties "christening" a new sloop or
schooner. From there on, you go
NOTE: Do not pester island tourist boards with requests for data on adventure
trips. West Indians, colored or white, consider all adventure-style travelers hare-
brained and, with rare exceptions, will treat you accordingly.
SHOPPING ... before and after
BEFORE heading islandwards, get yourself a phrasebook of
useful shopping phrases in Spanish and French. You'll never
learn a language that way. But foreigners are friendlier if
you struggle with their native tongue, and more important,
are less likely to foist undesirable items upon you or make
Spread the news about your trip before leaving by wish-
ing aloud for cash presents and gifts. For in shopping the
Caribbean for the best buys, you'll get exactly the same gifts
your friends would have bought for you back home plus a free
round trip to the islands. Or if you plan to pay for your own
fare, then you'll find yourself in the enviable position of being
able to snap at the once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to get Chanel
No. 5 at $8.75 instead of $20 in the U.S.; a $320 Exakta camera
for only $228; or a $400 21-jewel 18-carat gold Swiss watch for
AFTER arrival don't think you're smart to haggle in native
markets and get your one-third reduction. Local traders know
that American tourists gladly foot the bill once a 30% dis-
count is given. So the latest trick is to jump prices by 40%-60%.
Bargain accordingly. But before opening your mouth, examine
your purchase closely. Real prices are often clearly if in-
conspicuously marked inside or underneath.
Add Travel Sense to Your Travel Dollars
Let's say you've got your vacation travel ticket, and you're ready to
leave. Whether you travel by bus, train, ship, or plane, your first thought is
to secure a good seat. But there's more to it than simply grabbing the front
seat and congratulating yourself on the fine view.
Take buses. Only in Cuba are there sleek, air-conditioned, streamlined
monsters comparable to our own long-distance buses. But with forethought,
travel in antiquated island models need not be as uncomfortable as their
exteriors seem to suggest. By learning to evaluate the type of bus in relation
to the length and nature of your trip, and the state of the weather, a single
appraising glance as you step aboard will secure a seat that offers top value
for the greatly reduced fare.
Island buses are rarely fitted with doors. Therefore summer visitors
content to flop into a front seat may find the experience dampening in more
ways than one. You are continually jostled at the entrance and unless ap-
propriately dressed, travel in the shifting temperatures of mountainous coun-
try may prove unpleasant. You get an equally good view in the seat behind
the driver, are sheltered from the weather, but be sure sufficient legroom is
available. Similarly, tall persons on long trips will avoid seats above mud-
guard housings which encroach upon floor space.
The smoothest ride is midway between front and back wheels. On
lightly loaded buses, or on heavily pock-marked routes, rear seats plunge too
heavily, and the swaying motion on sinuous roads often induces travel sick-
ness. Doesn't bother? Then advantages to back seat riding are wider
viewpoint, and the opportunity to monopolize the seat after dark to catch
The position of the engine is important to passenger comfort. Rear
seats vibrate more with rear-end placement while engines in front make
forward seats unbearably hot in tropic weather if considerable hill climbing
takes place at low altitudes during late afternoon.
After choosing a comfortable seat position, check window-type with
current weather conditions in mind, not forgetting that late afternoon rains
are customary during summer. Few native-style buses have glass windows.
Instead, canvas flaps roll down to keep rain off. So unless you wear a light
coat, stick to an inner seat during the rainy season. There, however, jostling
is constant from alighting passengers and if chivalrous, you may lose your
seat altogether to one of the "fairer" sex. Rain or no rain, photographers
and fresh air fiends will decide upon a window seat and most tourists will
vote island scenery worth the risk of an occasional damping.
Nobody likes night travel . tactics should be reversed. Little oppor-
tunity for rest is possible in window seats due to the bus passing street lamps
and shop lights on one side, or facing the blinding headlights of oncoming
traffic on the opposite side. If you prefer the additional comfort of a window
seat, remember that seats on the right side of a bus are best unless left hand
driving is the local custom. Front seats are most unpopular after dark due to
approaching headlights dazzling passengers. On long trips, however, as along
the 600-mile Central Highway in Cuba, sneak a front seat just before dawn,
to get a good seat for daytime traveling.
Study the position of the sun for each trip you make. Traveling from
Havana to Camaguey, a southeasterly run, it would be in your face through-
out the morning if you choose a right hand seat. But daylong shade, making
allowances for slight deviations from the general direction, would make left
hand seats more comfortable.
Opportunities for extended rail travel in the West Indies are limited.
Good planning adds comfort to the shortest of trips, though. Everyone knows
that the farther you sit from the engine, the quieter and cleaner your trip
will be. Also, that middle-of-the-coach seats are preferable to "clunkety-
cunk" seats directly over the wheels. Other drawbacks to end seats are the
proximity to coach doors, toilet, and refreshment box. Advantages are the
ability to quit the train without delay so that you pass through Customs first
or streak ahead of other passengers to get the best deckchair position on inter-
island or excursion steamers. Hasty exit is also convenient on long trips to
get souvenirs from wayside venders, for snacks at crowded halts, or to take
In mountainous country, a glance at the map will show you where tun-
nels exist and avoid the disappointment incurred when an apparently good
seat, chosen at the station, later hugs a steep rocky embankment. Map study,
too, often reveals sights which might otherwise be overlooked. As few island
trains are electric or diesel propelled, bear in mind the direction of the pre-
vailing wind. Billowing steam and smoke clouds ruin landscapes however
carefully you consider all other factors for a trip.
The majority of American travelers shun the idea of traveling under
their own steam. But with Caribbean islands only twenty by ten miles, new-
comers may be deluded into making cycle trips. Don't be fooled by distances.
Not long ago I cycled 3,000 miles in South Africa in midsummer, crossing
the Great Karoc, an inland desert. But compared to cycling around Grand
Cayman, it was easy. So before pushing off into the interior, check road con-
ditions. Be sceptical of a motorist's opinion. Fair roads for motorists are in-
tolerable to pleasure-seeking cyclists.
Bermuda and the Bahamas are first-class cycling islands. Most others are
too hilly. If you think you have what it takes, try riding around St. Kitts, 30
miles; Nevis, 20 miles; or try short runs on Antigua or Barbados. For great-
est comfort always ride clockwise about the islands. That way you get the
sun behind you for the greater part of the day.
About the only dodges in air travel are to get a seat on the shady side
unless tourist sights influence your decision; and to avoid midship positions.
Depending upon the position of the wings, rear or forward seats offer the
best views. They also receive minimum sun glare from engine housings and
wings. Forward seats, however, are noisy. And if air sickness is expected,
you'll find right-hand seats to be most comfortable.
Making the most of the hidden privileges accompanying a steamer
ticket is quite an art. Assume you were sailing from New York to the Carib-
bean; that mornings would pass in deck games and swimming with after-
noons free for reading, writing, or lazing in the sun. Elementary geography
tells you the ship sails north to south, and that afternoon sun comes from the
west. Therefore to get tanned, starboard (right) side deckchairs should be
reserved. But if you want a cool site, or cabin, in lower latitudes, you would
choose the port (left) side of the ship since trade winds blow from that quar-
ter. Another advantage to port hand positions is the grandstand view of
islands passing because the island capitals nestle on the leeward (western)
shores. These outlooks apply only when the ship is in motion. Immediately a
ship swings to its anchor, the bow (sharp end) faces the direction from
which the tide is running unless the ship is riding light when the in-
fluence of the wind is likely to swing the ship instead.
Returning from Trinidad to the Gulf of Mexico you would pass through
the Mona Straits (except during the hurricane season), then proceed north-
west through the Florida Straits to Mobile or New Orleans. On that run, pre-
vailing winds make starboard hand cabins coolest but porthole views of the
Dominican Republic, Haiti and Cuba are limited to the port side. During the
hurricane season, land is briefly sighted on the port side. Little benefit is
gained from natural breezes on this route since the ship steams in the
same direction. Because temperatures are slightly higher as a result, this
is one leg of a sea/air combination trip that poses no problem. Obviously,
it is best to go by ship to the islands and return home by air.
In cool climes, or when returning from a winter cruise, the smokestack
and large ventilators provide convenient shelter for deck chairs provided you
have no objection to the noise, most noticeable on smaller ships. To avoid
interference, keep away from rigging, davit falls, doors, etc. Even though you
are on vacation, the crew must work. From a safety angle, never, never sit,
stand or step carelessly among wires, ropes, or chains lying on deck. On cruise
ships you probably wouldn't get the chance. But freighters are work-a-day
ships without a special staff to keep passengers within bounds.
Canvas awnings are popular on excursion boats and inter-island launches.
Be canny in selecting a deckchair site during the rainy season, however, even
if tropic showers are only short and sharp. First, never sit just to leeward of
a joint between two awnings. Never sit close to the rail for rain drives in-
wards. And never sit with your back to the superstructure for the same reason.
Not even a central position is always the best place. If the awning sags in the
centre, allowing rain to form a pool, it will, unless new, continue to drip long
after rain showers have passed. (Dark brown patches on the awning usual-
ly reveal leaking spots.) On no account sit beneath the after end of an awn-
ing. The sudden pitch of the ship, or the playful prank of an excursionist
upending the canvas results in a premature bath.
At best, voyaging under sail is adventurous. Sloop travel in spirited trade
wind seas is a modified endurance test. So all but good sailors should avoid
trips entailing a long beat to windward in the Lesser Antilles, any trip
heading northeast through southeast. Specific examples are St. Croix to Tor-
tola; Tortola to all islands eastward along Sir Francis Drake Channel; Antigua
to Barbuda; from the Windward Islands to Barbados; and Curacao to Bon-
aire. Even launches make heavy weather on these runs at times. For maximum
comfort - and least thrills - fly west to east between the islands, and
return by ship.
There isn't a good all-around place to sit on sloops. The best you can do is
wedge yourself between the bulwarks and the cabintop as far back as you can
get. And, just as you would for a bus or train trip, take a position offering
the greatest comfort for the journey between the islands, not the short
initial sail down the sheltered harbor or inlet. There's nothing complicated
to know. The Lesser Antilles run roughly north and south. Trade winds blow
from northeast to southeast according to latitude and season (see the chapter
on climate). You know where you are. You know where you are going.
Judge the best position accordingly.
Tempting as the shelter of a mainsail appears, never sit beneath it in
rough seas or during rainstorms. The canvas collects rain and spray which
drips from the foot of the sail onto the cabintop. Without waterproof coat
and trousers you'll get drenched. Tip: always wear a towel or similar absor-
bent cloth around your neck to prevent moisture trickling inside your collar.
Even in calms, sitting beneath the swinging boom is nerve wracking although
you can walk about the ship without fear of being flung overboard as might
happen in breezy weather.
Persons wearing glasses should face sternwards to prevent blurred vision
from spray carried in the wind. Likewise, photographers must keep camera
lenses covered between exposures.
Now for open boats. Every inter-island traveler boards them at some
time or other. If you remember that they float, and you don't act as if they
were supposed to be rigid, they are as safe as decked-in ships. Step into them
as near the center as possible, and remain seated at all times. For surf land-
ings remove your shoes and socks, grip the thwart (seat), or the outer edge
of the boat, and before you know it you'll be safely ashore.
ISLAND BEACH LORE
Before undertaking costly taxi journeys or tiring midday
walks to reach the selected beaches mentioned throughout this
book, make local inquiry regarding the current condition of the
beach and the adjacent waters.
Practically all Caribbean beaches are seasonal, shifting
and changing in shape and character. On Nevis, for example,
there are periods when the famed Pinneys Beach north of
Charlestown-at times without equal-is actually non-existent.
Then you will find the only beaches worth using are those pro-
tected by offshore reefs. Yet there are also times when the
sheltered beaches are untenable because freak underwater
currents sweep coral fragments inshore to make barefoot swim-
ming quite uncomfortable.
Most reliable sources for information of this nature are
hotel managers, tourist bureau staffs, and water sports en-
thusiasts among the resident population.
Here lie the bones of Sailor Jack, I
Who shipwrecked on an isle,
With six red-headed chorus girls,
Remained for quite a while.
He did not die from tropic foods, I
Nor from a poisoned cup.
He just wore out from tearing down
The signals they put up! I
Only vicarious travelers harbor unfounded fears about
living in the tropics. Personal danger is so slight that it can
be discounted. Apart from fer de lance on St. Lucia and Marti-
nique, poisonous snakes are unknown. Snake bite is more
widespread in the United States than among the Carribbean
islands. Mosquitoes and flies are not numerous and seldom
seen during the winter months. Sandflies are bothersome in
August and September, but only in waterlogged localities, or
in regions sheltered from trade breezes. Provided you try to
get along with Nature, instead of bucking it, living off the land
may easily become the most exhilarating and lowest priced
of your vacation adventures.
The extent to which you can go native depends upon the
island you select. Only in the Grenadines are small islands
ideal for a Robinson Crusoe existence. Of them, privately
owned Ile de Quatre nears perfection. Others have superior
beaches and lagoons, coral reefs, and clearer water. But none
combine Isle de Quatre's fine range of scenery, abundance of I
tropic fruits, or easy access from civilization. Depending upon
your reason for getting away from everything, any of the fol-
lowing islands are worth serious consideration: Baliceaux;
Savan; Petit Tabac; Prune Island; Tobago Cays; Frigate Is-
land; Isle de Ronde; and Glover Island. Less tropical but closer
to the United States are Tintamarre ; Dog Island; Seal Islands
and the smaller islets of the British Virgin Islands.
One of the best ways to choose your paradise island Is to
hire a sloop (or open boat in the Grenadines, if you are on a
budget). Continually quiz the colored crews. Their livelihood
depends upon an intimate knowledge of the island's natural
wealth. Better still, spend a week living on a small island
among the locals. They know which plants are edible, and how
poisonous plants are prepared as safe foodstuffs. Or take your
own boy Friday with you. He will cook, chop wood, carry water,
I and accompany you on fishing and foraging expeditions for
35 cents a day and his keep.
Finding water on your paradise island is your first consid-
eration. Whereas you can live foodless for several days with-
out ill effects, an adequate supply of drinking water is neces-
sary for survival in the tropics. Most islands have "slabs" where
--- -------------------------------------------------------------- -II I II
cattle gather to drink (or used to, if the island is uninhabited).
During the rainy season, fresh water pools are found in the
woodland gullies. However, runoff water is easily contami-
nated in tropic lands; to avoid possible infection treat it with
Halazone or iodized tablets. Allow half an hour standing per-
iod before use; if the water smells of chloride or iodine, it
I is safe to drink. Muddy water will clear if left standing over-
I night. Otherwise filter through a sock or piece of bamboo
stalk filled with sand. Do not use surface sand from a beach;
it is saturated with salt. Filters can also be made by weaving
grass or reeds.
I Boiling water is often easier than filtering. Few islands
S are without a good supply of firewood. Sometimes boiled water
retains an unpleasant smell; charcoal or wood ash will re-
move it. Water can be boiled in bamboo stalks before burning
through. Or you can heat pebbles and drop them into your
Rainwater is always safe to drink. Spring water usually so.
But the easiest way to find drinkable water is to dig a hole
at the lowest point of a valley running down to the seashore.
The best place is on the sands just below high water mark.
Since fresh water is lighter than salt water, stop digging
when you reach it. The water will neither look nor taste pleas-
ant but it is safe to drink. Avoid overdrinking until you are
accustomed to it, or you will vomit. On no account drink sea
S water. It sops the moisture from your body and eventually de-
I hydrates warm-blooded creatures.
Several plants yield palatable fluids. Foremost, of course,
is the green coconut. Ripe coconut juice purges if you drink
too much. Vines, bamboos, and the trunk of the banana tree
also secrete small quantities of potable liquid.
Tropic foods in the wild state lack supermarket variety but
abundance is assured once you know what to eat and where
I to find it. The old rule that what monkeys eat is edible for
humans is no help since monkeys are not found on small
West Indian islands. Observing what the birds eat is an unre-
liable guide. But if you spurn all plants with a milky sap,
those with bitter fruits and berries, and mushrooms or fungi,
you will be perfectly safe. Manchioneels should never be
S handled. These bright yellow, apple-like fruits look and smell
delightful, are plentiful and easy to reach but the juice is
S deadly poison. If you shelter beneath a manchioneel tree in
a rainstorm, painful blisters result from raindrops dripping
from the leaves. The wood sap blisters, blinds and even kills
... it is truly the forbidden fruit in your Garden of Eden.
Most tropical fruits are seasonal bearers. Late summer and
S early fall are the best months to live off the bushes. Coconuts
are available the year around. The green nuts, difficult to se-
S cure unless you can shinny up the slender trunks, provide a
I nourishing white jelly, Nature's ice cream. The meat of the
S ripe nuts, which fall to the ground, is a valuable solid food
but indigestible when taken in bulk.
Another excellent food cooked or raw, is the bud taken
from the heart of the palm trees. Similarly bamboo sprouts,
S the curly tips of ferns, and grass seeds add variety to a vegetar-
I an diet. All seaweeds are edible but do not touch them unless
your water supply is copious. Sea grapes, found on almost
every West Indian beach, are plentiful during fall but the taste
for them must first be acquired. Cashews and tockay berries,
found inland, are much more appetizing.
I Where there are abandoned plantations and gardens, culti-
I vated trees provide additional foods. Bread fruit, staple native
food among the islands, are first class when roasted. Guavas
are filling. Sugar apples are prolific bearers but sickly sweet
if overripe. Hog and Jamaica plums are delectable. Limes are
healthful and steeped in rain water used for drinking, re-
move the peculiar tang. The leaves, boiled four to a cup, make
an excellent sugarless tea.
For meat, you'll find wild goat, tortoise, pigeon, agouti, liz-
ards, frogs (skin and behead before eating), snakes (even
poisonous types are good), grasshoppers and grubs. Never touch
caterpillars. Banana leaves make excellent wrappers for cook-
ing all foodstuffs while meat wrapped in papaya leaves be-
Bird eggs are a good food source in spring. Hardboiled,
they last several days. Turtle eggs, however, remain soft. Fish
may be caught by line, net, spear, by clubbing after dark,
or by sprinkling derris dust or rotenone (non-poisonous to
humans) on ponds and stream surfaces. Flocks of seabirds
wheeling over the water, and groups of pelicans reveal the best
fishing grounds. To dry fish, clean thoroughly, cut in narrow
slivers, then hang in the sun. If properly cleaned, sundried
fish lasts several days. Treated with lime juice dried fish lasts
longer. Tip: shun uncooked freshwater fish. Sprats are fairly
common in the bays but you will need a net to catch them.
Eels make good eating; do not confuse them with sea snakes,
which are distinguished by their scaly skins.
S Shellfish are plentiful. Crabs and lobsters are best caught
at night. (Crabs make good bait although the white meat of
porkhead cactii is preferable for use in fish traps.) Whelks,
picked off rocks at low water, make excellent stews.
SOn some islands you may be lucky enough to catch turtle.
They land at night and their distinctive tire-like tracks lead
you to where their eggs lie buried beneath the sands. Eaten
S raw or cooked, turtle eggs are tasty; just puncture the skin
I and suck or squeeze gently. To turn a turtle, grasp the rear
I end of the shell and tip forwards. In doing so, beware of the
S flippers and remember that even after the head is severed,
you can be bitten. All turtle meat is edible. For crayfish hunt
the coral reefs. Shuffle along to avoid stepping on a sting ray.
Brown looking reefs are 2 or 3 feet below the surface of the
sea; light green around six feet; increasing to dark green and
S finally merging into the blue of the sea at extreme depths.
S Stout footwear is essential for walking on shallow reefs.
Choosing a Campsite.
Avoid swampy regions or bays where sandflies have eaten
away the foliage of trees. Mosquitoes are not troublesome
throughout the Eastern Caribbean. A site facing trade winds
keeps other small insects at bay. Often, however, the full force
S of trade winds is too cooling for comfortable outdoor living
S during winter months. Happily, there are few insects at that
S time, so where you camp largely depends upon local conditions.
So, too, will the type of hut you erect. With a cutlass
or good sheath knife to lop palm fronds to the desired lengths,
S you can build a serviceable shelter in an hour, complete with
S "porch" sheltered by an overhanging roof. Plaited palm leaves
I make ideal windbreaks and mats. A raised sleeping platform is
S recommended for the rainy season.
To enter into the spirit of the venture, make all your own
implements, just as a castaway would. Without much diffi-
S culty green coconut shell fashions into table implements. Co-
S conut shells also serve as emergency cooking pots. The husk
S is first class tinder. Take matches with you unless the Boy
S Scout method of making fire sounds like great fun. A camera
S lens will start a fire but considerable patience is necessary.
I Few civilized commodities have no substitutes. Charcoal
or soot becomes an escapist's toothpaste; breadfruit leaves
thrown on a low fire make an efficient insect repellent (use
gum, bled from the trunk to trap larger insects); calabashes
cut in half and dried serve as dishes; bamboo spikes can be
fish spears; large banana leaves make waterproof hats; and
coconut husk can serve as mattress or cushion stuffing.
I In winter you can run around in sunglasses, swimsuit,
and sandals. But for a summer sojourn take along a fine mesh
mosquito net, insect repellent for calm days, and long-sleeved
shirts for excursions into sandfly infested areas. Since tropic
darkness occupies 11 hours every day, an old lamp or candles
would be useful. Also handy though not essential are: stout
sheath knife or cutlass (buy locally); pocket-size line fishing
I kit; first aid box; waterproof matches; canteen; mirror; water
bottle; ball of twine; sewing kit; and dark glasses.
Part Atlantic Playgrounds
Siven the chance to go anywhere in the world, where would you
go? Most likely to an island. More specifically, to an island set in
lazy summer seas where time jogs along and local life throttles back
to tortoise pace, where surroundings are striking enough to excite tourist
interest yet never demand adjustment to new customs and languages. No
better picture of the Atlantic playground islands of Bermuda and the
Bahamas exists. Although neither are tropical nor Caribbean, both colonies
are foreign yet you pay your bills in U.S. dollars ... both are tempered by
the benign Gulf Stream... both lean back easily with unruffled countenance,
a blend of local inertia and British composure . both are dose enough
to Miami, Washington, New York, and Canada to wing in for a long
weekend . and both are ideally situated as stepping stones leading to
longer Caribbean vacations.
Currency, Pound (Bermudian Sterling) 1 = U.S. $2.82.
------ Parish bowuddnres .E4
You'd expect distinction at a vacation resort perched atop limestone
peaks overlying 100,000,000 year old fossils of a lost Atlantis, and
Bermuda's 150 coral-fringed islets, 600 miles from anywhere, delight-
fully fulfils expectations. Cradled by mother Atlantic, Bermuda luxuriates
in a layette of pink beaches and sparkling blue seas. No part of the tree-
dotted island exceeds 250' in height yet the surface is attractively hilly.
Pretty drives wind along one-hundred miles of paved roads bounded by
oleander hedges, palms, fields of Easter lilies, and endless flowery gardens.
Bermuda, of course, is frost free and poinsettias paint the island a brilliant
scarlet through December.
Pretty drives wind along one-hundred miles of paved roads bounded by
oleander hedges, palms, fields of Easter lilies, and endless flowery gardens.
Bermuda, of course, is frost free and poinsettias paint the island a brilliant
scarlet through December.
Tucked among Nature's color parade are dazzling white roofs with the
arresting sight of stepped temple-like roofs of oldtime backyard cooling
houses, and quaint back alleys squeezed between high walls. But for sheer
concentration of color, and a guarantee of exciting photo-appeal, nothing
beats contrasting gay tropical clothes and dark skins (Bermuda is 62%
colored), or the somber sight of bewigged court officials seen against the
super-brilliance of the island's scarlet pillar-style mail boxes.
Something as commonplace as choosing a place to stay is also like an
excursion into fantasy fields. Accommodations occur in every possible size,
setting, price and quality range. Average room rates at hotels and the larger
guest homes are $14As, $25Ad to $24As, $44Ad. Smaller Bermudian guest
houses, better than many small mainland resort hotels, charge $6-$9Es, slight-
ly more with breakfast at the majority. Budget visitors stay at private homes
for as little as $4Es, $6Ed or $6As, $10Ad. Housekeeping cottages with maid
service rent at $9-$12 a couple daily while rental homes run $250-$800
monthly depending on size and location.
Easter Week is the most popular visit-Bermuda period, so much so
that sea voyagers must frequently use their ship as a hotel. Otherwise it
is July when almost ten hours of possible daily sunshine is recorded . .
and least rainfall. Wettest months are August-October although sunshine
soon drives away the showers. Other summer months are sometimes hot
and sultry because average relative humidity reaches a peak of 85% in
June. If you wait until August, you may find bathing in 82 F-840F sea
water too warm; yet October, always cool and pollen-free, is more apt
to be overcast. Ocean bathing is most enjoyable from April into December,
but July is our favorite month, all factors considered. Yet non-bathers
might prefer the Christmas season. Poinsettias are then at their lovely best;
lamp-posts and and trees in Hamilton twinkle with colored lights; Santa
Claus arrives on water skis; and hotels light the Yule log and promote
carol-singing. Least interesting touristwise are January-mid March, but with
overall climatic conditions so favorable, do not expect to find startling off-
season rate reductions at hotels.
You might pocket an extra $1-$2 a day from November to February
at smaller hotels, or similar reductions at larger places if you stay for more
than a week. Otherwise the only noticeable cost-cutting feature is the Family
Plan offered by the St. George Hotel-plus many other tourist-interest
bargains. But wherever you finally decide to stay, one point to watch when
making reservations is the type of "plan" offered. Bermuda quotes: Ameri-
can plan (A), all meals supplied; Modified American plan (MAP), all
meals except lunch; Bermuda plan (BP), bed and breakfast; or European
plan (E), bed only. All hotels except Castle Harbor provide 110 volt A.C.
current therefore U.S. appliances are usable.
Settling for European plan rates presents no eating-out problem. All
hotels welcome patronage though dinner reservations are usually recom-
mended in peak season periods; the cost runs $3.95-$6 at swish places, $1.75
upwards elsewhere, or substantial meals at unpretentious establishments for
around $1. To simplify stopover and transportation problems, travel agents
offer 8-day, 7-night packages from $155.50 (breakfast only furnished) and
$177 up with breakfast and dinner included. Among the most attractive
package vacations recently offered: a Thos. Cook special providing a room
with excellent meals, tennis and swimming pool privileges, ballroom danc-
ing, a social evening, and a launch ride. Other noteworthy travel agents or-
ganizing first class Bermuda vacation packages include Blue-Sky Tours,
70 East 45th St., New York, and Le Beau Tours at 100 West 42nd St., New
No passport is needed to visit Bermuda but you must have a return
trip ticket and means of identification (birth certificate or old passport)
to reenter the U.S. Vaccination is no longer necessary for U.S. and Canadian
Customs regulations are generous. Liquor sells for less than $3 a bottle
in Bermuda but is limited to one gallon per person, including children;
cigarettes and cigars to one hundred; and tobacco, one pound. Certain
French perfumes may not exceed a one-bottle duty-free quota. Prevent
forfeiture by checking specific brands with store clerks at the time of
Documentary tax ($2.85) is levied on all departure tickets, whether
you leave by air or sea, unless in direct transit by same plane or ship.
The island was named after its discoverer, Juan de Bermudez, a Spaniard.
Earliest proof of visitors landing is offered by the "Spanish Marks", crude
rock inscriptions above the scrawled date, 1543.
Sir George Somers, on his way to the Jamestown settlement in July,
1609, was wrecked on Bermuda's coral reefs. As a result the island was set-
tled in 1612 by the Virginia Company (later becoming the Bermuda Com-
pany). Bermuda's parliament, third oldest in the world, was instituted in
1620. And although the island has neither extensive pastures nor plantations,
slave labor was introduced at an early date.
For many years, the main income was derived from shipping, salt, and
cedarwood. Trade embargoes imposed during the American Revolution caus-
ed considerable hardship on Bermuda, but fortunes were amassed from
privateering during the War of 1812. Even greater profits accrued from the
Civil War, when Bermuda served as a trans-shipment port for Confederate
cargoes. After varying unsuccessful attempts to flourish in peaceful commerce,
the islanders finally developed tourist interest. Today, the island's economy
almost entirely depends upon U.S. vacationers and honeymoonems.
Notable Island Celebrations
April (fourth Thurs.) Easter Lily Pageant. Hamilton. Beautifully decorated
floats tour the town.
Good Friday, Kite flying, Pembroke Marsh.
May (no fixed date), Queen's Birthday, military parade.
June (biennial even-numbered years). Arrival of Newport, B. I. -
Bermuda Yacht Race entrants.
July 28, Somers Day, St. Georges. Street procession and regatta.
Nov. 5, Guy Fawkes Day. Fireworks display.
Dec. 26 (Boxing Day). See the colorfully clad befeathered Gombey Dancers
tour the streets (also out on New Years Day).
Since 85% of Bermuda's economy depends upon tourism, facilities for
getting about the island are particularly good. As the island is only 20 miles
long, cycling proves the cheapest and most convenient means of transport.
Because motor traffic may not exceed 15 mph in town, or 20 mph around
the island, cycling is also safe and enjoyable. Solo machines rent for $2.00
per day, $7 a week, or only $28 a month. Tandem machines rent from $10
a week and motor-assisted models from $5.00 a day or $21 weekly. (In-
expert cyclists should avoid the busy Middle Road as much as possible.)
And with inter-island ferries carrying passengers and cycles for a nominal
fee which can be further reduced by buying a book of tickets at a
time it is far from being costly, or fatiguing, to explore the entire island
by cycle. Allow yourself a week's stay for best results.
Drive-yourself cars are not available. But English taxis with driver rent
at $8 per half day, $14 per day, or at 47# the first mile and 200 there-
after. Fare from the airport into town, $1.25 each. When riding from
ship or plane to your hotel, remember that luggage carried inside the taxi
travels for free. Horse and buggy rides cost 560 the first mile, and 280
a mile thereafter; or, by the hour, $2.80. Fixed tariffs apply to most point-
to-point trips. If you suspect exorbitant charges, ask to see the official tariff
list. Every driver must carry one by law.
Harian's Bermuda Vacation Planner
A series of recommended h-day
and one-day tours including the
principal highlights of the islands.
a. HAMILTON half day
(morning or afternoon)
Visit the Anglican cathedral;
Sessions House, third oldest parli-
ament in the world; Front Street
for shopping; fish market by the
old Yacht Club; Wreck Museum,
Front Street East; and Agricultur-
al Gdns., South Shore Road.
b. HARRINGTON SOUND -
half day (18 miles); by car-
riage or taxi, $7.
See the Government Aquarium
and Zoo, Flatts, (adm. 50c) and
take a $2 underwater trip wearing
regulation diving helmet; Crystal,
Walsingham, or Leamington (best)
Caves, adm. $1 each; Tom Moore's
House; Devil's Hole for exciting
hookless "fishing," 50c pp; and
Lilli Perfume factory, open free
(perfumes sell from $2 a dram).
c. MARINE GARDENS half
day (afts. only).
Join 2.15 p.m. party for a glass-
bottom boat cruise over coral out-
crops; trip takes 4 hours, $2 ($1).
d. ISLAND BOAT CRUISE -
full day (or half day).
Leave Hamilton at 10.30 a.m. (with
barbecue lunch, $7.50 pp) or 2 p.m.
(%-day, $3) on MV Duchess or
Priscilla, both offering beach bath-
ing stops. Invariably, sailing boats
offer day trips with bathing, trol-
ling, and spearfishing at $8 pp (or
$10 for de-luxe trip with lunch).
Morning and afternoon trips on
Tuesday are $2 pp including soft
drinks. Midnight cruises leave at
9.30 p.m., $5 pp with rum swizzles
to sip en route.
e. ST. GEORGE full day (5
hours), $9.50 by taxi, $6.75
Quaint narrow 17th century streets
and the harbor life are long re-
membered. Visit the Old State
House; Historical Society Museum;
Somers Gardens; step-climb to
Peter's Church; tour Gate's Fort;
St. David's L.H.; Fort Catherine,
25c adm; and Gunpowder Cave,
adm. 70e (restaurant attached).
f. SOMERSET ISLAND 4
hours by taxi $10.50; by bus
This recommended circular trip
takes you by ferry from Hamilton
and returns by taxi, tourist bus,
or cycle. You'll see Gibbs Hill L.H.,
finest local lookout (makes a g. TOUR OF THE QUEEN OP
pleasant -day trip; $5.25 by car- BERMUDA, 22,600 tons (af-
riage, or 45c r.t. by bus); Water- ternoon only)
lot Inn; the world's smallest draw- Enquire at Watlington & Conyers,
Front Street, for tickets. Tours
bridge at Cambridge Beaches; old take place between 2 p.m. 4 p.m
H. M. Dockyard, free port zone; except sailing days or during Liv-
and the U.S. Naval Base. Aboard cruises.
As a rule, both the Ocean Monarch and the Queen of Bermuda stay
1-2 nights in Hamilton then head for the Bahamas or return direct to New
York. Passengers completing the onward or round trip therefore find ample
opportunity to complete one or more island tours before the ship sails.
One good way for sojourners to see the island is by a conducted bus
tour; there are four trips weekly, fares $6.25 up. Or private cars make
the rounds in three hours for $8 per person; five hour trips are $9.50
or $14 a day. Local bus service is much cheaper and quite entertaining but
a slow, uncomfortable process. The trips are divided in zone and fares are
4c a stage; trips from Hamilton to St. Georges, or Somerset (the island
extremities), cost 42c one way.
WHAT TO DO
Perhaps Bermuda's greatest attraction is the wide range of open air
pursuits. Water sports naturally predominate, for no part of the island is
more than a mile from the sea.
Good sea bathing is within a towel's fling of all hotels. Sea temperatures
vary between 61F during winter to around 84F in August. The finest
beaches are found along the South Coast, from Somerset all the way to St.
George. Some places offer beach privileges at the cliff-sheltered Coral Beach
Club. But you'll need member introduction to use private club facilities. Of-
fering locker service and light refreshments are: the Bermuda Beach Club,
Paget (adjacent to Elbow Beach); and the Breakers Club at John Smith's
Quieter South Coast beaches are Long Bay, Warwick; Church Bay,
Whale Bay and Horseshoe Bay, Southampton; and Devonshire Bay, Devon-
By comparison, North Shore bathing is only fair. But the best beaches
include Long Bay, Somerset; Spanish Point, Pembroke; Shelly Bay, Hamilton
Parish; and St. Catherines Beach (locker service), St. Georges. Hamilton
harbor, the Flatts on Harrington Sound, and Great Sound all offer clean, still-
water bathing. And in parting, remember that nowhere in Bermuda is it
considered good taste to leave the beaches dad only in beachwear.
Fishing, whether deep sea, reef, seashore or lagoon, is first class. Bone-
fish, pompano, amberjack, tuna, bonito, marlin, rockfish, wahoo, barracuda,
dolphin, snappers, grunts, and chub are regularly caught. Some of the best
localities are over the Argus and Challenger Banks, off Northeast Point, and
by St. David's Lighthouse. The annual Bermuda Game Fishing Tournament
from May to November offers visiting fishermen a sporting chance of carrying
off a prize. Ask at the Development Board for a free entry form. Light tackle
rents for $2.50 a day or $10 weekly.
Charter boats for six-person deep-sea angling parties are $40 per half
day, or $60 a day. Cut costs by reef fishing at $25-$40 a day; hiring a Pompano
---------- ------ ~Ps
Club three-man dinghy, $17 per half day; or surf fishing with rod and reel
for $1 an hour, $2.50 a day. Party boat fishing costs $6 pp. Spearfishing en-
thusiasts should check regulations regarding equipment allowed in Bermuda
waters. Guided dives are available, $10 up.
Other water pastimes are water skiing ($5 every half hour); sailing
in all types of boats. (Rates for 4-10 person parties, with crew, are $12 per
2-day, or $24 a day. Without crew, $7 per 2-day, or $10 a day). Then
Bronson Hartley has twice-daily diving trips where you can, for $7.50 each
(weekdays only), explore undersea coral gardens. Half-hour aqualung trips
are thrilling; rates range from $7.50-$12.50 per person, which includes
shallow water instructions. Underwater cameras are available for $1.25 per
session. For the lowest priced diving experience, visit the Government
Tennis is popular at all seasons. Several hotels have courts; otherwise
you'll require member introduction to Coral Beach Tennis Club or the
Somerset Lawn Tennis Club. For $2 an hour you use the en tout cas courts
at the Princess Hotel, home of the Bermuda Lawn Tennis Club. Racquets
may be hired; buy locally or take your own for convenience. International
Tennis Week, held in October, provides first class exhibition play for specta-
Golfing opportunities are excellent. Mid Ocean course is known world-
wide. Pro's are available for coaching, as at Riddell's Bay Golf Club and Bel-
mont Manor course. All three are 18-hole links. Greens fees are $2-$5, cad-
dies $2 up. The St. George Hotel and Castle Harbour Hotel have 9-hole
courses ($2 greens fee). Tournaments are held throughout the year. Equip-
ment may be rented or bought locally.
Riddell's Bay and Belmont courses are reached by ferry from Hamilton;
but you'll need a taxi or cycle to reach Mid Ocean and St. Georges links.
Spectator sports are surprisingly diverse for a mid-ocean islet group.
Admission fees average 50c pp. Cricket, football, soccer, rugby, badminton,
lawn bowls, boxing, table tennis, horse racing (with Dec.-April pari-mutuel
betting), and water events at the Bermuda Athletic Ass'n's pool, near Eagle's
Nest Hotel. Free publications entitled This Week in Bermuda, Preview, and
Bermuda Weekly keep you posted on local affairs of tourist interest.
Most glamourous activity for amuse-yourself fans is treasure hunting.
Jagged coral reefs enclose the islands to snare unwary ships. Only recently
an old treasure galleon was located and rifled of jewelry, gold bars, and old
coins, many to be seen in the Wreck Museum, adm. 50#.
How to get there direct (AIR) Washington, D. C. Bermuda
(Eastern), four weekly, $62
New York Bermuda (PAA) o.w., $112 r.t. Also service via
(BOAC) (Eastern) (Eagle), New York.
daily, 3 hrs., $58 o.w., $105 r.t. Montreal Bermuda (Trans Can-
Boston Bermuda (PAA) twice ada) twice weekly, 4% hrs.,
weekly, 4 hrs., $58 o.w., $105 $76 o.W., $141 r.t. (Also four
r.t (also via New York). weekly from Toronto.)
How to get there direct (SEA)
New York Bermuda (Furness
Bermuda) weekly, 40 hrs.,
$72.50 o.w., $125 r.t.
Montreal Bermuda (Saguenay
Terminals) fortnightly 2 days,
How to get there island hopping
Nassau Bermuda (BOAC) week-
ly, 4% hrs., $58 o.w., $104.40
Bermuda-Barbados (BOAC) (Trans
Canada), 6/4 hrs., $112.50 o.w.
Via (a) San Juan twice weekly
or (b) via Antigua weekly. 30-
day summer excursion, $180.20
Bermuda Havana (Cubana)
weekly, 5% hrs., $75 o.w.
Bermuda San Juan (BWIA)
thrice weekly, 4 hrs., $80 o.w.
How to get there island hopping
Nassau Bermuda (Furness Ber-
muda) weekly, 1 day, $85 o.w.
Nassau Bermuda (Pacific Steam
Nav) every 12 weeks.
Nassau Bermuda (Royal Mail
freighter) regular sailings,
Bermuda Kingston (Royal Mail)
BERMUDA WHERE TO STAY
****Castle Ha r bour, Tucker's
Town. 500 persons, all rooms a/c,
VEMA. Occupies elevated position
above tree-covered slopes. Luxury
living offered; has swimpool, priv-
ate beach, nightly dancing on ter-
race, bar; boats, tennis & golf
available. Good watersports center.
****Mid Ocean Club, Tucker's
Town, St. Georges. 80 persons;
VEA. A large select hotel re-
quiring introduction by a member.
Good cuisine, bar, dancing; also
theatre, private beach, first class
golf course, tennis.
****Lantana Colony Club, Sandys
Parish. 68 guests, VEA. A/c cot-
tage suites with kitchenette, patio,
Club House, water sports.
****Bermudiana, Pitt's Bay Road;
Pembroke. 450 persons; EMA-
VEMA. Surrounded by palms and
overlooking harbor; close to town.
Good restaurant (good view), bar,
beauty parlor, sunken dance ter-
race and swimpool. A/c through-
out; superb balcony views.
***Elbow Beach Surf Club, Pa-
get. 320 persons; VEA. Attractive,
large, comfortable resort hotel in
spacious grounds overlooking its
own beach; favorite spot for the
younger set. Always something to
do. Tennis courts, games room.
***Reefs Beach Club, Southamp-
ton, 65 persons; EA. Attractively
situated cottage accommodations.
Clubhouse provides meals, bar and
dancing facilities. Private beach.
***Pink Beach Club, Smith's. 47
persons; VEA. Excellent cottages
with very good surf bathing and
tennis; meals served at the club
house. Cuisine is outstanding.
Reservations needed. Closed Nov.
***Princess, Pembroke. 350 per-
sons, VEMA. An older quite pleas-
ant hotel with wonderful views ov-
er Hamilton Harbour; has good
meals, swimpool, tennis and nightly
dancing. Free transport to the
***Palmetto Bay, Smith's. 40
persons; VEMA. A delightful old
cottage colony, friendly and infor-
mal with lots of activity in quiet
location on Harrington Sound;
beach, tennis and golf nearby.
***Ariel Sands, Devonshire. 56
persons; EA-VEA. Fairly new
South Shore cottage colony in 10-
acre grounds with tennis and
***St. George, St. George's. 200
persons; EA-MA. An enchanting
hillside hotel with excellent ter-
race view of town and harbor.
Special attractions include indoor
swimpool; beach with constant
free car service; golf; nightly
dancing; free tour of town; and
free fishing or cruising at any
hour of day or night. Oh, yes, and
Family Plan rates. The staff wears
17th century style costumes; bell-
hops don knee breeches while the
doorman has a beaver.
***Belmont Manor, Warwick.
200 persons; EA-VEA. A well
appointed place amid park-like,
tree-filled grounds overlooking
Great Sound; has large swimpool,
dancing, bar, tennis and golf, lawn
bowls, croquet. Popular among
Canadians. Underwater ballet stag-
***Inverurie, n e a r Darrell's
Wharf, Paget. 50 a/c rooms, EA-
VEA. Conveniently located next to
ferry stop; has comfortable rooms,
waterside terrace, bar, dancing
throughout the week. Tennis, min-
iature golf, croquet, terrace swim-
pool and top name entertainment
90 persons; VEA. Vari-sized cot-
tages almost surrounded by water;
cozy rooms, central room for
is, bar and dancing, some
evenings. Reservations necessary.
Surf or still water bathing; tennis
and golf nearby. Boats available.
***Harmony Hall, Paget. 80 per-
sons; EMA-VEMA. Small & mod-
ern, with attractive lawn & gar-
dens; many rooms have private
entrance. Food is good, bar;
***Horizons, Paget. 46 persons;
EA-VEA. Older cottages, quite
modern facilities; rooms are cool
and overlook landscaped grounds.
***Capistrano, Smith's. Smart
luxury hskpg units, $22.50 a day,
$100 week, with utilities and maid
***Mount Pleasant. 20 guests,
MB-EB. Quiet and pleasantly in-
***Ledgelets, Sandys. 26 per-
sons; VEA. An a/c hillside cottage
colony overlooking the water and
popular with honeymooners. Has
swimpool, private beach; boats are
***Coral Island Club, Hamilton.
85 persons; EMA. Quiet sea inlet
site with verandah overhanging
the shore; has elevator service.
Rooms are light and airy; informal
atmosphere. Good food; cocktail
***Fourways Inn, Paget. 50 per-
sons; EMA-VEMA. Has an attrao-
tive English inn atmosphere, com-
plete with "pub"; all rooms have
air conditioning and the cuisine
is very good. SwimpooL
***Pomander Gate, Paget. 30
persons; EMA-VEMA. An old Ber-
muda home flanked by spacious
lawn and landscaped grounds;
some cottages available. Cocktails
served on the verandah. Pool.
***Faraway, Warwick. 40 per-
sons; EA-VEA. Good, nice-sized
rooms close to private beach; has
heated swimpool, excellent cook-
***Loughlands, Paget. 23 per-
sons; EMA. Here's a quiet guest
house close to beaches, tennis and
***Harrington House, Hamilton.
50 persons; EMA. An old building
with modern appointments; is
comfortable, overlooks water but
a little noisy at times. Excellent
food served, bar service, dancing
on the terrace.
***Waterloo House, Pembroke.
55 persons; EA. Well spoken of
for its comfort and cuisine, water-
side terrace and private dock fa-
cilities. Beaches, tennis and golf
nearby, swimming pool on prem-
***Newstead, Paget. 50 persons;
EA. Situated opposite Hamilton,
close to ferry stop; has spacious
grounds with beach and golf close
***Deepdene Manor, Smith's. 40
persons; EA-VEA. Mellowed estate
home surrounded by woods &
overlooking Harrington Sound;
known for its comfort and good
meals. Bar. Swimming, fishing and
boating available from the photo-
***Summerside Inn, Sandys. 22
persons: EMA. Attractive; food
& accommodations are first class.
***Eagle's Nest, Mt. Langton,
Pembroke. 75 persons; EA. A mod.
ern three story hotel in attractive
gardens with excellent view of
Hamilton. Twice-weekly dandrg,
bar, good restaurant, Olympic
swimpool, tennis, beaches nearby.
***Empire Club, Queen Street,
Hamilton. 36 persons; EB. Com-
fortable accommodations conveni-
ent to shops; good food, attractive
patio, and dancing to a good steel
***Pompano Club. An excellent
cottage colony with a good DR;
voted tops among the fishing fra-
***Buena Vista, Harbour Road,
Paget. 45 persons; MA-EA. Rest-
ful, waterside hostelry in good
residential section close to Hamil-
ton ferry; good cuisine, bar. Has
private beach on harbor; surf
bathing, golf and tennis nearby.
***Mizzentop, Warwick. 27 per-
sons; EMA-VEMA. Unfolds good
views over Great Sound. Private
dock, deepwater bathing; close to
beaches and golf.
***White Sands, Paget. 28 per-
sons; EA-VEA. Fairly new place
with waterside terrace; homey at-
**Kerri, Pembroke. 11 persons;
MB-EB. Attractive though small
Bermuda home set in quiet
**Bayswater, Pitts Bay Road.
EB. Comfortable; has private dock
close to Hamilton.
**Glencoe, Paget. 28 persons;
VEMA. Gracious old waterside
home offering quiet comfort and
good food; rather sophisticated.
**Sherwood Manor, Pembroke.
45 persons; EA. Known for its ex-
cellent continental cuisine and
broiled specialties. Rooms are
cool and spacious, opening to well-
kept grounds. Offers private beach
on Great Sound and dancing.
**Oxford House, Pembroke. 22
persons; MB. Architecturally se-
vere, but good, comfortable rooms.
**Rosedon, Pitt's Bay Road,
Pembroke. 32 persons; EMA.
Most attractive setting; cool, com-
fortable rooms and verandah.
Suites surround pool.
**Salt Kettle House, Paget. 12
persons; MB. Pleasant grounds.
**Trevelyan, Paget. 12 persons;
MB. Quite small place but has
**Kenwood Club, Hamilton. O
persons; ME. Just the place for
the budget visitor; good a la carte
meals available, reasonable prices.
**Bermuda Cottages, Paget. 150
persons; EB. Ideal for a quiet
hideaway or beach housekeeping.
**Scarrington, Paget. 18 per-
sons; EMA. Overlooks harbor.
**Everest, Hamilton. 14 persons;
**Grandview, Devonshire. 16
persons; MA-EA. Wide views of
the island and sea, spacious rooms,
close to beaches. Home-grown
**Mount Royal, Paget. 12 per-
sons; EMA. Informal and quiet,
close to beach, tennis & golf
**Campbell Corner, Paget. 12
**Tallent Villa Pembroke. 12
persons; MB. Located in pleasant
Get the list of private homes
accepting visitors from the Ber-
muda Trade Development Board,
620 Fifth Avenue, New York 20,
WHERE TO EAT
All hotels welcome non-resi-
dents as dining room guests.
Castle Harbour Hotel is most like-
ly to please discriminating visitors.
If you stay there (or at the Ber-
mudiana, Harmony Hall, or the St.
George, ask about their money-
saving "Variety Dining" plan).
Non-hotel dining rooms may be
**Belfield, Somerset. Open
10:30-5:30; serves good lunches.
**Beefeater Room, Empire Club.
Serves thick juicy steaks.
**Brass Rail, Hamilton. Good
budget proposition, meals from $1-
***Breakers Beach Club, John
Smith's Bay. Attractive with very
**Buckaroo. Modern, clean, and
good for snacks; reasonable.
**Elizabeth's Tea Cosy, Front St.
Good low-priced lunches with
**Gunpowder Cavern, St. Geo-
rge's. Orchestra provides dance
**The Hdeaway, Reid St. Short
order place on upstairs floor. O.K.
for English-style teas.
**Kenwood Club, Reid St. Good
food and service at moderate
****The Waterfront, Hamilton.
Nautical decor and sophisticated;
excellent meals served.
**Little Venice. Good Italian
***Longtail Club, Front Street.
Excellent in every way; features
Italian dishes, seafood, steaks.
***La Caravelle, Front Street.
Pleasant atmosphere with con-
tinental cuisine. See the striking
murals, mingle with Bermudan
**The Plantation, Leamington
Cave. Has homey surroundings;
lobster or steak dishes are first
**Pompano Club. New place with
fine fish dishes, moderate prices.
*Queen's Cafe, Reid St. Good
Chinese food from 85c a plate.
*Sea. Venture, Paget. Sandwiches
and soft drinks only.
*The Spot. Quite modest.
***Tom Moore's Tavern, Hamil-
ton Parish. Noted for steaks . .
and murals honoring Tom Moore
poems. Also serves good fish din-
**Walker Arcade, Front St. Con-
venient moderately-priced place
**Waterlot Inn. Three-hundred
years old; serves good meals, and
good planter's punch.
*Whelan Drug Store, Union St.
Handy for snacks.
**White Horse Inn, Kings Square,
St. George's. DR is above the bar.
Evening entertainments provided by most large hotels do not attain
night club status. Nor has Bermuda a casino. Best bet for an evening's
fun is the Gombey Room, Harmony Hall. Resident status is not necessary
to join in evening activities anywhere. Dancing (until 1 a.m.) may be to
U.S., English, or calypso bands. BARS remain open until midnight week-
days, or 1 a.m. in hotels. Best known are the Swizzle Inn; "21" on Front
Street, noted for its balcony view of the island steamers; La Caravelle,
a favorite cocktail spot; and Traveller's Club, Bermudiana Rd.
WHAT TO BUY
Head straight for Front St., Queen St., or Reid St. Stores close midday
Thursday but remain open all day Saturday. Lunch hour closing is customary.
Fewer outstanding shopping bargains are found these days as production
costs rise in other countries, but you can still make purchases and save
yourself as much as 50% on identical merchandise bought in the U.S.
Cashmere woolens from $17 and Shetland woolens from $10 per
article creep away from the budget shopper's list but you'll still find good
buys in British tweeds, topcoats, doeskin slacks and gloves. Other items
worth looking at are English leather goods (30% savings); Wedgewood
and Spode china (40% less); cameras (25% less); German toys; fishing
tackle; perfumes from $1.40 per 1 oz. bottle (40% off for French brands);
silverware; and in-bond liquor. Typical liquor prices per gallon are: Bar-
bados rum $6.50, gin $11, bourbon $15-$20, a saving of $10-$26 com-
pared to U.S. prices per gallon package. Beer is 210 a bottle and U.S. cigar-
ettes 28# for twenty. Souvenir items with local interest are cedar boxes,
or calypso shirts. Because swimsuits and dresses are more expensive than
at home, be sure to take adequate variety with you.
Camera Store, Queen Street,
Hamilton. Wide range of cameras.
Also 24 hr D & P service for regu-
lar or color films.
Vera P. Card, Somers Bldg.,
Front Street, Hamilton. Silverware
and linen goods, too.
A. S. Cooper, Front Street,
Hamilton. See their potteryware.
William Bluck. Has a show of
cutlery in addition.
English China Shop. Many at-
Garden Shop. Stocks good cry-
H. & J. Crisson, Reid Street,
Hamilton. Mementoes and some
Island Maid, Serpentine Road.
Souvenirs for all.
Little Green Shop. Interesting
Cecile, Maison Francaise, Ham-
ilton. Good stock of handbags.
Irish Linen Shop. Specializes in
Shamrock Shop. Fine range of
linen sports clothes.
Woman's Shop, Reid St. Accent
is upon local themes.
Peniston Brown Co., Hamilton.
J. F. Burrows; Gosling's; or
Calypso Shop, Paget. The place
for calypso shirts.
English Shop, Front Street,
Hamilton. Get your Bermuda
shorts here. Woolens & linenware
TWEEDS & WOOLENS
Baruch's, Queen Street, Hamil-
ton. Attractive Angora sweaters.
Bermuda Shop. British topcoats
Archie Brown, Queen Street,
Hamilton. Wide choice of wool
H. A. & E. Smith, Hamilton
(branches at Castle Harbor, & St.
Georges). Excellent range of wool-
Sweaters & tweeds of every var-
OTHER USEFUL ADDRESSES
Bermuda Trade Development
Board, Front Street, Hamilton.
Cable & Wireless Office, Front
Street West, Hamilton.
Thos. Cook's representative
(Plitcroft & Co.), Mercury House,
Front Street, Hamilton.
Kitson & Co., Reid St., Hamil-
PAA, 60 Front Street, Hamilton.
(after office hours, call Kindley
Post Office, Reid Street, Hamil-
Public Library, Queen Street,
For further information, write to: Bermuda Trade Development Board,
620 Fifth Avenue, New York 20, N. Y.
Currency, pound (Bahamian sterling)
1 = U.S. $2.80
Only sixty miles from Miami, and stretching 600 miles across sun-dashed
tropic seas, lie the "Isles of June," a dream chain of low-lying, palm-dotted
isles girt by superb, pink and white horseshoe beaches and endless coral-
edged South Sea lagoons. Only thirty-four are inhabited. Yet so closely they
cling, it is possible to hop-scotch across what is reputed to be the world's
most beautifully tinted waters yet never make a single splash.
Until recent years, Nassau, the capital town on New Providence Island,
was the Bahamas. But no longer. Of course, it still remains the focal highlight
of every Bahamas vacation. But the Out Islands-as Nassauvians refer to their
699 companion islets-now attract an interest which eclipses that shown
when Columbus first reported them nearly five hundred years ago. Last
CITY OF NASSAU
I t r A nrnYflLt"1Tr
year, 177,867 tourists descended upon Nassau. Resort facilities continue to
overflow; more adventurous vacationers leave to see what lies over the
horizon. Excursions never disappoint for new accommodations make for
pleasant stopovers on the once little-known Out Islands, in many ways the
most fascinating corner of this self-governing British sub-tropic colony.
Sunshine through 360 days a year sounds good. So does all-season bath-
ing in crystal-clear waters in shallow bays sheltered by reefs. Bahamian
beaches are among the finest anywhere. And the populace, colored and
white, is friendly and communicative. Another point-visitors are greeted
with a free rum drink. As in Bermuda, the language is English; American
customs are familiar and catered to; and U.S. dollars are accepted in lieu of
local currency. But the best news of all concerns the pocket. It costs less
to reach and become a living part of the Bahamas than for any other island
group off our shores.
For as little as $9.50 you can fly from the U.S. mainland. Miami is
a scant hour distant by plane while New York is just 2-4 hours distant.
So coupled with the fact that inter-island water and air transport is im-
proving, the Bahamas open up exciting new travel adventures to the more
venturesome type of vacationer.
Get acquainted with obeah customs, or the exhilaration of lugging lost
treasure around, like the 72-pound silver bar worth $20,000 recently hauled
from the ocean bed off lonely Gorda Cay (pron. key), or gathering amber-
gris worth $1,400 as recently happened on Inagua.
Bahamian accommodations fit every pocketbook. Typical of all fashion-
able resorts, you can be stripped of every dollar. Or you find exciting low
values pooh-poohed by local promotional groups as misleading information
for other visitors! Say you like the social whirl of the winter season (mid-
Dec. to mid-March) and you buck at paying $40As per day at the smartest
beach hotel, or even half that much. Watch the calendar. Peak winter rates
usually run from Feb. 7th through March 21st. Still get your winter in the
sun but save yourself 25% by making reservations for Jan. 10th through Feb.
6th. Or purr contentedly with 10%-30% savings from March 22nd-April
30th, or Dec. 1st through Jan. 9th. Because lowest priced rooms are snapped
up first, make your reservations as far in advance as possible. But if that
isn't possible, try your luck during the definitely slack Jan. 1st-Jan. 10th
period, a regular holiday hangover.
As in Bermuda, book space as AP (American Plan); MAP (Modified
American Plan); EP (European Plan). Quotations labeled CP are Contin-
ental Plan, another name for Bermuda Plan or bed and breakfast. For house-
keeping units contact realtors but always calculate rental rates without
electricity unless specified otherwise. Local current is 110-125 volts, AC, and
an expensive "extra." Bargain seekers or sojourners might like to act as
May-November caretakers at local de-luxe homes, a fine way to get your-
self a free Bahamian vacation. New Out Island homes rent from $30-$60
weekly in season. Smaller offbeat hotels charge $10As a day while private
homes furnish bed and three satisfying meals daily for $8 each.
Most smaller guest homes charge $6Es a day up in summer. Yet there
are nice rooms for $5Es (without private bath), or even less in pri-
vate homes like Mrs. B. Peet's, or Mrs. T. Knowles'. Obviously Nassau, even
in winter, is not solely for millionaires. But on the other hand, do not
expect bargain rates to automatically come your way. Use our hotel listing
to ferret out your idea of the best buy.
Terrific! That's the only way to describe room rate reductions in sum-
mer. Between May 1st and Dec. 1st (2 weeks earlier and 2 weeks later at
some places), vacation values approach the unbelievable. Count upon get-
ting forty per cent reduction in November and May-July, and up to an ex-
citing 60% August through October. Package tours show a similar dip for
7-day 6-night stopovers start at $67 per person (two in a room), two
meals and sightseeing thrown in. The same summer package at the smartest
hotels are only $98.50 per person. As a giddy climax, summer excursion
fares lop 20% off normal plane fares.
Naturally, reductions are offered for good reason. There's less organized
entertainment (which is usually confined to peak winter weeks anyway) al-
though many hotels stage nightly dance sessions in summer, and weekly
masquerade balls. About the only thing missing is winter's after-dark form-
ality. You might miss the slightly cooler and drier climate. Summer rains,
however, are really nothing more than short sharp showers. Occasional days
are hot and humid but nights always turn pleasantly cool. Sometimes, de-
pending upon a shift of wind, sandflies may become annoying. Head for
windward beaches that day and you'll soon forget they exist. To escape these
minor drawbacks hardly seems worth paying 30%-60% extra for a vacation.
And it's a decision backed by more visitors each year.
Food prices remain stable the year around. Breakfast, American style,
starts at $1 in boarding houses; lunches $1-$2.75 each; while good dinners
range from $1.95-$8 or more in the larger hotels. Attractive restaurants in-
crease annually in Nassau. Lowest cost meals, however, are served in Chinese
restaurants. A tasy conch dinner runs $1.25, a complete 3-course turtle steak
dinner at $1.95. Good Danish or German beer is 40 a bottle, more else-
where. Tip as you would in the U.S. Master the art of handling local currency
and you'll save yourself 20-30 on the smallest purchases. But make biggest
savings by paying your hotel bill in pounds, shillings, and pence instead of
No passport or visa is needed to visit the Bahamas although Canadians
and Britons may stay up to 29 days only without papers. Alien U.S. residents
require passport, re-entry and sailing permits. Customs regulations are lenient.
Two hundred cigarettes are allowed in duty free. U.S. and Canadian dollars
are legal tender, but importation of Bahamian or British currency is pro-
TOURIST TAXES (collected upon departure),
Visit of less than 48 hours, 85c per person.
Longer periods, $1.70 each.
Columbus made his first New World landfall here in 1492. After the
Spaniards exterminated the peaceful Arawaks, English pioneers settled the
islands in 1629. Subjected to continual attack by Spanish and French forces,
the colony finally succumbed in 1703.
Pirates ruled the roost for fifteen years when more British settlers arriv-
ed. Again Spain took over, lost to the British, who, in turn, saw the flag of
American revolutionaries over Nassau for short intervals. Since that time,
however, the group has remained under British rule.
Fantastic profits were made locally by smuggling supplies into Southern
ports during the Civil War. The Prohibition era proved even more lucrative.
Today, the Bahamas depend upon tourism for revenue although agricultural
development continues on a limited scale.
Notable Island Celebrations
Jan. 1 New Year's Day. Johnnie Canoe Parade, where colored men wear
masks and unusual garments, form a band, then tour the streets for tips.
April The Out Island Regatta. Exuma. Local sloops compete in exciting races
for $3,000 worth of prizes.
June 15 Junkanoo Festival, Nassau. See the dawn Mardi Gras dancing
to drums, and spectacular homemade costumes in a colorful parade. (The same
festival is celebrated Dec. 26th and Jan. 1st.)
Dec. 7-9 Trophy Road Race (followed by International Regatta Week).
(The morning changing of the guard at the police barracks is worth
SEEING THE BAHAMAS
Nassau, home of 46,125 islanders, is decidedly touristed. If you arrive
by ship, dark-skinned seal-like boys dive repeatedly for dimes from a
semicircle of bumboatss", ashore there are always tours to take and sights
to see, and postcards and souvenirs by the hundred to prove your one-time
presence in foreign waters. But in the midst of this tawdry commercialism
is the satisfying substance of reality. Rewarding is the sight of sturdy Out
Island sloops jostling for space along the waterfront; haggling almost too
dignified for the marketplace; shopping crowds along tree-lined Bay Street,
jugular of the colony's economic system; pith-helmeted policemen putting
traffic lights out of a job; and charming drives that wind among hilly resi-
dential sections that somehow retain the mixed charm of colonial homes
and churches, flower-filled gardens, and daily life and customs teetering be-
tween British tradition and African spontaneity.
This island of New Providence is not one of the largest Bahamian pao
sesions. But it packs powerful tourist interest and varied activities for ery
age and interest group. Unlike so many West Indian islands, transportation
is good. Motorists actually are invited to visit the island, a contrast to views
expressed in Bermuda. Speed limits are higher (20 mph in town, and 30
mph on the island). And though you are expected to keep left while driv-
ing, that's all there is to local laws. Complimentary driving licenses are issu-
ed in a jiffy. East Bay Service offers U-drive-it cars for $6 from 10-4, or $10
a day. Regular gas sells at 390 per US. gallon. Saunder's specialize in
the rental of ground-hugging British sports cars.
Taxis are plentiful at 28c for the first mile, and 14c per mile thereafter.
Always bargain for out-of-town trips, however. Cab fare to Windsor Field
(airport) is $3, depending on the hotel's location. Groups trim costs by hiring
a 7-passenger car at $3.92 an hour. Horse and carriage rates are 280 a mile
per person, or $3 an hour, plus $1.50 for each additional half hour.
Although local buses charge only 10c a stage, they are neither frequent,
fast nor comfortable enough for extended sightseeing. But you still have the
opportunity to shave transportation costs, and even get added fun in doing
it. Something every visitor does: hire a pedal cycle for 350 an hour, $1.50
a day, or $7 for a full week; or ride a power-assisted machine for 70 an hour,
$3 a day, or $14 a week. You not only see more for less, but you learn the
secret of "experiencing" a vacation, instead of merely taking one.
For combined comfort and leisurely island hopping, join a 10-day yacht
cruise operated by Capt. Mike Burke (PO Box 1051, Miami Beach 39).
On his 140' staysail schooner Polynesia you'll eat well; visit Bimini, the
Berry Islands, Nassau, Abaco, and Grand Bahama; enjoy superb bathing
and spearfishing; and even help to set sails, steer, and work out the ship's
daily position. All inclusive cost on the monthly sailing is $150-$200.
Do-it-yourself advocates rent a 26' 4-person cruiser from Miami Yacht
Rentals and in one week visit Bimini, Grand Bahama, Green Turtle Key,
and Nassau. Shared daily cost is around $7.50 a day.
Harian's Bahamas Vacation Planner
a. Nassau-half day
Quaint, charming, with atmosphere
at every turn, yet distinctly alive.
That's Nassau. For bicycles outnum-
ber cars on the narrow colonial
streets and towering cottonwood trees
cast huge pools of inviting shadow
along a maze of intriguing timeworn
back alleys. See the House of Assem-
bly and Law Courts; pink stone Gre-
gory's Arch; bargain at the open air
market in Rawson Square and wan-
der the length of the bustling sponge
wharf, sidestepping piles of juicy
pineapples fresh from the plantation.
Don't miss wandering around Ardastra
Gardens, the old colonial homes and
churches, or the elevator ride up the
216' Water Tower for the panorama.
b. Historical Tour-half day (or
may be incorporated with tour a)
Start at Fort Charlotte, the largest
t three forts; carved from solid rock,
it overlooks the west entrance of the
harbor and has gruesome dungeons
and a collection of lifelike wax fig-
ures. The Diorama (nearby) depicts
the landfall of Columbus. Fort Fin-
castle, Bennet's Hill, reached by 66-
step Queens Staircase; the lovely city
and harbor view is well worth the
climb. Fort Montagu, East Bay
Street, overlooking the bay.
c. Marine Gardens-by glass-bot-
tomed launch, 2 hours.
Boats leave from Prince Georges
d. Tour of the Island-with
Includes a visit to the ruined
Blackbeard's Tower, four miles from
town; Oakes Cave; Bahamas Country
Club: and Nassau Silk Farm, 2m. E.,
to see raw silk produced and worked.
adm. 50c; St. Augustine Abbey, built
on medieval lines; and bathe at Ade-
laide Beach, favorite spot with Baha-
~ __~__(;~ _________________R~IP(_~_
e. Out Island Excursion-one day for an all-inclusive $56 upwards. Or
upwards sail on a Monday from Nassau on
Via a de-luxe 60-passenger cruise the 92' schooner Caribee for $125
boat; has bar service and colored weekly. All cruises permit shell col-
troubadors abroad. Or by plane. electing, shore excursions, and fre-
f. Organized Island Cruising Night Club Tour-three hours, $7 pp.
Opportunities for yacht cruising are Includes a visit to two night spots
innumerable. Many have rates com- with free refreshments at each.
parable to what you'd have to pay
to stay ashore for a week. Commercial Tour Operators
You might vagabond cruise on 84' Best known are: Philip Brown
diesel schooner Gulliver with 3-9 (widest variety of tours, and sup-
other enthusiasts for $120As weekly, erior service); R. H. Curry, Bay St;
Join the 140' Polynesia for 10 days, Playtours, 28 Shirley St. Others are
or sample a 8-day voyage linking Jack Johnson; and MM Tourist Serv-
Abaco, Eleuthera, and Exuma Cays ice.
WHAT TO DO
Sun, sea, and sands in the Bahamas are perfect for sea bathing almost
throughout the year. Locals will even tell you that Paradise Beach, on Hog
Island, just across the water from Nassau, is the world's best. True or not,
most visitors think it worth the $1 entrance fee, which includes locker space
and use of beach umbrellas. Boats for Paradise Beach leave Prince George's
Wharf at frequent intervals, fare 50c one way plus a tip for minstrels on
A dip at West Beach runs $1.50 a day. Or pay $1 at hotel pools. Good
value is a 6-hour picnic cruise with lunch and beverages for $8 pp. Or
cyclists can investigate dozens of attractive and free beaches within a few
miles of Nassau. Wherever you bathe, bear in mind local customs. Never
appear on the streets clad in beachwear, abbreviated shorts, or halter dresses.
Water skiing is popular in Nassau's sheltered waters; boats rent for
$12 a day. Lessons for beginners are $5 each. Sailing expenses range from $10
a day according to the size of the boat, and your sailing skill. Spearfishing,
at $5 per person in groups of six, gains devotees; equipment can be hired
on the spot. Extended motorboat cruising sets the budget back by $12 a day
plus fuel. Gather seashells in variety on Rock Island.
Bahamian deep-sea fishing is highly rewarding, and visitors can enter
local contests. Best spots are Bimini, and Walker Cays. Runners-up are
Andros, Abaco, and Exuma Cays, or Berry Islands. The Development Board
supplies excellent fishing guides, $1 each. The catch? Kingfish, bonita, tuna,
amberjack, tarpon, bonefish, albacore, and marlin. Most Nassau fishing
boats rent for $50-$65 a day. Sometimes older craft charter at $45. Other
competitive rates are: Grand Bahama, $40 a day (skiff, $20); Andros
skiffs, $22 a day; Abaco, $45 a day (skiffs, $25). Charter rates from Bim-
ini are nearer $95 a day inclusive, with skiffs at $25.
Recreations and spectator sports are well represented. Frequent sum-
mer-fall softball and double-header basketball matches are held; cricket is
played May through October; horse racing each Tuesday and Friday in winter
at Hobby Hall track with pari mutuel betting.
Tennis at $2 an hour is available to year around visitors at the Ba-
hamas Country Club, Paradise Beach, British Colonial Hotel, and Fort
Montague Beach Hotel During the season, exhibition bouts are held.
- -, 71-- 7
Greens fees at the 18-hole Bahamas Country Club are $6 a day. Saddle
horses, with instructors if required, are furnished by Oakes Stables. Regattas
always draw crowds and offer entertaining recreation at little or no cost.
To round out visitor entertainments there are: an eight-week theatre
run offered during winter; nightly dancing; several good cabaret shows; and
gambling at the Bahamian Club; movies at two a/c cinemas (reserve 8:30
seats at the Savoy). Get details of these and other events from the free
weekly What to Do in Nassau found in hotel lobbies.
How to get there direct (AIR)
New York Nassau (BOAC) (PAA).
daily, 4 hrs., $69.30-$76.10 o.w. Via
30-day excursion $143.10 r.t.
Toronto Nassau (Trans Canada)
almost daily, 6% hrs., $86. o.w.
Miami Nassau (BOAC, Mackey, PAA)
daily, 1 hr., $18 o.w., $33 r.t. 29-
hour excursion $29 r.t.
West Palm Beach (or Fort Lauder-
dale) Nassau (Mackey) daily, 1I4
hrs., $18 ($20) o.w., $33 ($36) r.t.
How to get there direct (SEA)
New York Nassau (Incres Line)
weekly, 3 days, varying schedule.
New York Nassau via Bermuda
(Furness Bermuda) occasional sail-
ings, $150 o.w.
Miami Nassau (Eastern) (P & 0),
twice weekly, 13 hrs., $24 o.w.
Nassau New York (Furness Ber-
muda) 4 days, $100 o.w.
How to get there island hopping
Bermuda-Nassau (BOAC) weekly, 31/
hrs., $58 o.w., $104.40 r.t.
Nassau Kingston (BOAC) daily, 3
hrs., $42 o.w., $75.60 r.t.
Nassau Montego Bay (BOAC) daily,
21/ hrs., $42 o.w., $75.60 r.t.
Nassau Havana (BOAC) 5 times
weekly, 2 hrs., $30 o.w., $54 r.t.
How to get there island hopping
Bermuda Nassau (Furness Bermuda)
every 10 days, $85 o.w.
Nassau Kingston (Royal Mail) reg-
Nassau Havana (Incres Line) Cruise
Nassau C. Trujillo (Royal Mail)
How to get there adventure-style
Inagua Cockburn Harbor (S. Calcos)
monthly mail sloop.
WHERE TO STAY (Nassau)
****Fort Montagu Beach, East Bay
Street. VEA. Cool and spacious at-
tractive 5-story place on beachfront
amid 50 acre estate, 2 miles from
town. Has swimpool, solarium, air
conditioned bar & nightly dancing;
tennis, golf & archery available.
Good restaurant. Stages underwater
****British Colonial, Marlborough
Street. 300 a/c rooms with bath.
VEA. Central, lavish use of sliding
glass walls, overlooking ocean; offers
every type of entertainment, includ-
ing plays in winter.
****Emerald Beach, 5m. W. of Nas-
sau. 300 rooms, VEA. Smart beach
resort, completely a/c, offering
private bathrooms, first class %-mile
beach, salt-water pool, private dock,
tropical gardens, night life with race
track opposite and tennis and golf
nearby. Free transport to town.
****Coral Harbor Club, 10m. S. of
Nassau. 136 guests, VE. Smart resi-
dential yacht club on Venetian-like
canals; facilities at this 2-mile ocean-
side estate include excellent beach,
swimpool, tennis courts, and putting
(Other **** places are: 66-room
Dolphin Hotel; 56-room Mayfair Ho-
tel and 278-room Nassau Beach
***Buena Vista, Delancey Street.
VE. Widely known for its excellent
cuisine; has dining terrace & bar.
***Palmdale Villas, Palmdale, WVE,
SM. One mile from town & popular
with families. Two-bedroom villas
have dining room & kitchen, free ra-
dio, telephone, maid service & free
transportation to beaches. No book-
ings accepted for less than a week's
***Pilot House Club. 32 rooms: SE.
WVE; all rooms a/c. Popular with old
salts since it's close to the yacht har-
bor; large swimpool set in exotic set-
***Patio Apartments, Elizabeth Ave.
***Royal Victoria, Shirley Street.
105 rooms. SE. WVE. Large a/c rooms,
all with private bath; three cottages
available. Rates highly for old world
atmosphere, large swimpool, lush
tropical gardens, terrace dining &
dancing, revolving bar, and beach
***Loft House, George Street. SB.
WE. Lovely guest house in town.
***Colonial Garden Apartments,
Marlborough Street. SM, WE; effi-
ciency apartment for 2-4 persons.
Beach and shops close.
***Sun And, Lakeview Ave. VE.
Grouped around large patio pool, all
rooms with bath; hillside walk to
***Parliament, Parliament Street.
***Prince George, Bay Street. SE,
WVE. Centrally situated overlooking
wharf; good dining room & bar.
***Royal Elizabeth, Elizabeth Ave-
nue. SE, WVE. Small but comforta-
ble rooms with sundeck, bar and cof-
fee shop, harborside swimming pool.
***Windsor, Bay Street. SM, WVE.
Convenient to shops, pleasantly in-
formal; entertainment, old English
***Cumberland House. Cumberland
Street. SE, WVE. Opposite Gov't
House in charming, narrow street,
close to beach and shops. Rooms have
balconies and private baths; excellent
***Towne Hotel. 47 rooms, E-VE.
A/c throughout; also has swimpool.
***Carlton House, East Street 142
guests, SM, WE. Restful, all rooms
a/c; Bahamian cuisine, cozy bar.
***Gleneagles, East Shirley Street.
SE, WVE. Guest house in spacious
garden; beach nearby.
***Little Orchard Cottages, Village
Road. SE, WVE. Twelve two-room
units in large grounds.
***Nonpareil Apartments, Frederick
Street. SM, WVE. Each room has its
own verandah; handy to shops and
***Harbour View, West Bay Street
SM, WE. Has waterfront outlook.
***Grosvenor Close, Shirley Street.
Light, airy & modern; close to shops.
One b.r. units, $65 per week; two b.r.
units, $80 per week in summer.
***Parthenon, West Street. WVE.
***Windermere, E. Bay Street. E.
***Van Zevlen, 39 George St. SM,
***Olympla, West Street. EA. Op-
posite British Colonial; has beach
***Cable Beach Manor Apartments,
Cable Beach. S$12 (1 b.r.), $15 (2
b.r.); W$20 (1 b.r.), $30 (2 b.r.). Five
miles from Nassau on private beach.
**rown's, 4 Delanoey Street, aM,
***White Gates, West Bay Street.
**Anchorage, West Bay Street. E.
**New Providence, West Street. WE.
Neat and spotless with good beds, sun
deck, lawn chairs.
**Alarac House, Cumberland Street.
WE. Comfortable rooms, nice grounds.
**Victoria, Victoria Ave. SI, WM.
**Mitchell's Cottages, 8 West Street.
SM. WE. Close to the beach.
**Sandringham, Shirley Street. SI,
WE. Convenient to shops.
**Lucerne, Frederick Street. SL
*Psillnakis. Union Street. Inexpen-
(If you prefer club life, try the
Balmoral, Country Club or the Rac-
WHERE TO EAT
Blackbeard's Tavern, Bay Street.
Excellent charcoal grills.
Poinciana, Bay Street. U.S. and
Golden Dragon, Market Street. Con-
tinental and Chinese cuisine; patio
Grand Central. Air conditioned din-
ing room; good food & service.
Buena Vista Guest House, Meeting
Street. First class cuisine.
Airport Restaurant. Windsor Field.
Good a la carte or table d'hote serv-
ice; has cocktail bar.
Others: Shell Boom; Pacific; the
Candy Kitchen and the Elbo Room
serve sandwiches & soft drinks.
Jungle Club, Fort Montagu Beach
Hotel; Imperial for wry calypso hu-
mor; Junkanoo, Bay Street, top Nas-
sau entertainment; Club Crazee, Ar-
dastra Gardens; Chez Paul Meeres,
best entertainment and dancing in
native quarter; Cat and the Fiddle.
Second rate entertainment may be
found at several places in Grant's
Town, the colored section of Nassau.
Dirty Dick's, a British pub/tropical
patio combination, is always a lively
touristed spot. Anyone over-imbibing
is dumped into a barrow and wheeled
back to their ship or hotel.
WHAT TO BUY
As in Bermuda, the majority of Nassau's attractive buys are imported
from Europe. English tweeds, woolens and doeskin articles are particularly
good. Other items worth serious consideration are: French perfume 30%-
60% off; cameras (up to 45% savings possible); cashmere sweaters, 25%-
40% off; Liberty silks; leather goods; china and porcelain; cutlery; and liquor
of all types. Local handicrafts are particularly interesting, and include shell
bracelets, necklaces and earrings, and hats or bags made of sisal. Sponges may
be purchased at the market on the waterfront. (All prices drop drastically
just before cruise ships sail.) The most important stores line Bay Street. On
Friday they close at midday but remain open until late on Saturdays.
Amanda, Boyle Bldg., East Street.
Ambrosine, Peek Bldg., George
Street. Cashmere sweaters, costume
jewelry, gloves & handbags.
City Gift Shop. Chinaware, watches.
Cockle Shell Shop. Has wonderful
variety of quality shell objects.
Columbus Pharmacy, Bay Street.
Dantzler's, Bay Street. Doeskin
gloves, linens & Swiss embroidery.
General Hardware Company. oppo-
site Royal Bank, Bay Street. Cutlery
and a wide selection of china, in-
cluding Royal Doulton & Wedgewood.
J.S. George, Bay Street. Claims to
be the oldest store in Nassau; stocks
fine china cutlery, and fishing gear.
Home Industry Shop. The variety
and quality of work is tops.
Island Shop, Bay Street. Books,
papers, good linens & silkenwear.
Jaeger, Bay Street. Linens, shorts &
Johnson Bros., Bay Street. Tortoise-
shell articles, and Bahaman curios.
Lightbourn Pharmacy, Bay/George
Street. Cameras. Also provides D & P
Maura Lumber Company, Bay Street.
Good cutlery stock.
Meg's 32 Shirley Street, Handmade
lingerie, cashmere sweaters and other
The Men's Shop, 219 Bay Street.
Stocks the famous Daks, English wool-
ens and doeskin gloves.
Moseley's, Boyle Arcade, Bank Lane.
Known best for its attractive native
cloth display but also has cameras,
books, stationery & photographic
New Colonial Pharmacy, Bay Street.
Paris Shop, Rawson Square. Limoges
china, binoculars & French perfumes.
Perfume Shop, Bay Street.
Francis Peek, Peek Bldg., George
Street. Antiques, china, glass & sil-
Songs of the Islands, Royal Vio-
toria Hotel. Local calypso records sell
for $3.95-$6.50 per album.
Treasure Traders, Ltd., West Street.
Here is a fine collection of the
choicest foreign handicrafts, and
Vanity Fair, Bay Street. Doeskin
gloves & cashmere sweaters.
Windsor Shop. Bay Street. Angora
sweaters, doeskin gloves, silken wear
& men's clothes.
Other Useful Addresses
Bahamas Development Board, Bay
Post Office, Parliament Street.
Pan American Airways, Mathew Av-
Colin Rees, East Street, Nassau.
Playtours, 28 Shirley Street. Travel
Cable Office, East Street.
U.S. Consul, Boyle Bldg., Bank Lane.
Public Library, Shirley Street.
Automobile Club, Box 123, Nassau.
Even the largest Out Islands still live by the arrival and departure of
the daily or weekly mailboat or plane, a preview of a typically Caribbean
way of life. Too numerous and far-flung to visit during a single vacation,
only major islands are mentioned. But if your exploratory glimpse looses a
yearning for an island all your own, far from hot summers or cold winters,
industrial gloom, jangling phones, radio or TV, then agree to make $3,000-
$5,000 improvements on an island during your first five years of occupation,
and the Crown will lease for $28 a hideaway spot for 99 years. Use the fol-
lowing islands as a base of operations. (Girls safely travel alone on inter-
island mailboats. Reserve cabin space from $2.80 o.w.)
ANDROS, largest Bahamian island, has excellent barrier reef sport and
good teal, pigeon and boar shooting. There are many wild horses and a
dwindling flamingo colony. Water is plentiful, highways inadequate or non
existent. Beaches are good but sand fleas often bite. Visit Nicolls Town
for tourist interest, or Pott Cay for fishing. Taking a peep is not for budget
travelers. The Lighthouse Club, a stylish 50-room place, charges $20As,
$32Ad. Yachtsmen stay at the Andros Yacht Club, Fresh Creek, while
sportsmen prefer the 10-person, $25As-a- day Camp Bang Bang on Pot Cay.
Air services to Andros are: from Miami, $16.50 o.w.; Nassau-Fresh
Creek, twice daily, 20 mins., $7.70 o.w. Nassau-Mangrove Cay and Pot Cay
(both twice weekly, 2 hr.), $10.60 o.w., $18.90 r.t. Space on the 7 a.m.
weekly mailboat from Nassau to Nicolls Town, Fresh Creek, Mangrove
Cay, and other points is $2.42-$4.70 o.w. Boat returns Tuesday.
BERRY ISLANDS CLUB, Frazers Hog Cay. 16 rooms, all with pri-
vate bath; eat at the Yacht Club.
BIMINI, Gulf Stream island famed for big game fishing and former rum-
running exploits, is the nearest Bahamian settlement to Miami. See the
Lerner Marine Aquarium. Movies and night life brighten the darkness hours.
Air travelers arrive from Miami per BAL in /2 hr., $21 r.t. or each day
from Nassau in 1 hr., $17.50 o.w., $31.50 r.t. The mailboat arrives fort-
nightly from Nassau, fare $2.86 o.w., $5.72 r.t. Choice of accommodations
is varied. Most favored places are the Bimini Fisherman's Club, S$11As,
W$13As. Anchors Aweigh, 18 persons, S$36Ad, with good rooms, food,
and service with bar. Compleat Angler, 20 persons, S$8Es, $15Ed, also good.
Gateway Hotel, 52 persons. Modern and close to sheltered boat docks.
Other places are: Brown's Hotel, Alice Town, W$5Es; Ocean View;
Eagle's Nest; and Seacrest Hotel, S$6Es, $12Ed or W$13Ed, $20Ad.
CAT ISLAND See ruined plantation homes and the gardened hilltop shrine
to a Franciscan five-day-a-week hermit. Only access is by the weekly MV
Drake leaving for Arthurs Town and other points from Nassau. Fare is $7.06
o.w., $14.12 r.t.
ELEUTHERA, a charming oldworld island, is eighty miles long yet only
four miles across at its widest point. It is the most frequently visited Out
Island. Striking features are first class beaches (try Goulding Cay, beach club
is open Sunday and Wednesday afts.); duck shooting; harmless green lizards;
guided missile base; pineapple and tomato fields; Harrisville Plantation,
U.S.-owned poultry farm welcoming visitors; picturesque Governors Har-
bour; and charming Cupid's causeway, part of small oldworld Harbour Island,
a tropical setting with exquisite pink coral beaches, and boating.
Planes leave Nassau daily for Governors Harbour, 35 mins., $13.30 o.w.,
$19.60 r.t.; Harbour Island, '2 hr., $10.60 o.w., $16.10 r.t.; and Rock Sound,
1 hr., $13.30 o.w., $24 r.t. MV Air Swift leaves Nassau weekly for Span-
ish Wells ($2 o.w., $4 r.t.); Harbour Island ($2.42 o.w., $4.84 r.t.); Gov-
ernors Harbour and Rock Sound ($3.52 o.w., $7.04 r.t.). MV 52 Miles or
MV Passing Jack offer three times weekly service from Nassau to land-
locked Hatchet Bay, $4.30 o.w. Hire cab for scenic shore drive to weathered
Gregory Town, 5m. N. Ten miles beyond is Goulding Cay and a delightful
beach cub open Sun. and Wed. afternoons.
Places to stay are: GOVERNORS HARBOUR Belmont, 4 person,
S&W$24Ad. Overlooks both shores from ridge site. Buccaneer Club,
W$12As with nice setting, good meals, and antique shop. Cleartide Inn,
S$10As, $18Ad. French Leave, 75 persons, MAP $15s, $30d. Excellent
cottage accommodations. HATCHET BAY Hatchet Lodge, 23 persons,
$15As in good cottages. ROCK SOUND Rock Sound Club, W$17As,
$30Ad, provides comfortable rooms, good cuisine, tennis, shuffleboard, pool
and ocean bathing. Cotton Bay Club, a residential cub with golf course
and yacht moorings. Ocean Hills Hotel, new place overlooking sea beaches.
S$10As, W$15As. HARBOUR ISLAND Little Boarding House, 12 guests,
S$10As, W$12As, $24Ad. Picaroon Cove Club, 26 persons, S$14As, W$18As,
$36Ad. Pink Sands Lodge, S&W$15As, $30Ad. Pleasant cottages with tennis,
shuffleboard, and riding available.
GRAND BAHAMA Creek and reef fishing is first class. Plans are afoot
to develop an industrial community called Freeport at which customs duties
will be waived. Tourist interest centers on West End. Stay at the Grand
Bahama Club, lively resort village, S$8Es, $10Ed; Vacation Inn; Hope Bight
Lodge. Walkers Cay off Grand Bahama is privately owned but has an a/c
fishing club close to pool and beach bathing. Planes arrive on Grand Bahama
every day from Nassau (12 hrs., $20.30 o.w., $37 r.t.-1-day excursion
$33.60 r.t.). MVRichard Campbell leaves Nassau weekly for West End $4.70
o.w., $9.40 r.t.
GREAT ABACO Fishing here is tops and most settlements conveniently
occupy small cays off the main island. Visit Elbow Cay, an old pirate haunt
with Hopetown, a colorful fishing settlement situated on a landlocked sound.
Stay at Newhope Lodge, $10As daily; or mainland Sandy Point, 16 per-
sons, $20As. Green Turtle Cay, founded by Loyalists from the US. is quaint.
You'll stay at Green Turtle Fishing Camp, S$3Es, W$10As, or $30-$50
weekly cottage. Long Bay Estates cottages (without electricity) rent for
$45 weekly in winter; New Plymouth Inn; Thompson's Yachtel; or
Sandy Point Fishing Club. The Other Shore is also good.
Planes leave Nassau for tiny Green Turtle Cay (2 hrs., $16.10 o.w,
$29 r.t.); Man of War Cay (1/2 hrs., $15.10 o.w., $27.20 r.t.); Sandy Point
(/2 hr., $12.60 o.w., $22.70 r.t.); Marsh Harbour (1 hr., $15.10 o.w,
$27.20 r.t.); and Hopetown (14 hrs., $15.10 o.w.. $27.20 r.t.). MVStede
Bonnet sails weekly from Nassau for Hopetown, $3.30 o.w., $6.60 r.t.; Man
of War Cay or Marsh Harbour, $3.90 o.w., $7.80 r.t.; and Green Turtle
Cay, $4.60 o.w., $9.20 r.t.
GREAT EXUMA Good anchorages, lovely marine gardens, and beautifully
tinted waters attract all yachtsmen. U.S. troops were in occupation during
World War II. Duck shooting is the main tourist activity ashore. Stay at the
Peace and Plenty Club, George Town; Stocking Island Yacht Club. Planes
arrive weekly from Nassau in 1 hr., $20.30 o.w., $36.60 r.t. Also weekly are
mailboat arrivals, $4.50 o.w., $9 r.t.
GREAT INAGUA, most remote of the better-known Out Islands, is re-
markable for its 50,000 flamingo flock, wild horses, duck shooting, and
thriving salt exports. No accommodations are available. Launches call at
Matthew Town from Nassau each week with many island stops en route.
Fare is $17.86 o.w., $35.72 r.t. Other launches connect with Port an Prince,
Haiti, fare $17 o.w.
LONG ISLAND inhabitants grow sisal or catch fish for a living. Small caves
here are worth a look. Planes stop at Clarence Town biweekly from Nassau
in 2 hrs., fare $18.20 o.w., $32.80 r.t. MV Capt. Roberts sails weekly from
Nassau to Simms and Salt Pond, fare $593 o.w., $11.86 r.t.
SAN SALVADOR is low-lying and reputed to be the landing place of
Columbus. See the cairn erected by the Chicago Herald in 1891; lighthouse;
and guided missile activities. On the west shore is Cockburn Town where
the weekly MV Drake drops anchor. Fare from Nassau is $6.35 o.w., $12.65
r.t. Twice weekly plane fare from Nassau is $23.80 o.w.
To make reservations on the above mail boats apply: Richard Campbell,
Ltd., Box 267, Nassau; Ralph Roberts, Bay Street, Nassau; Eleuthera, Ltd.,
Box 677, Nassau. All islands are also easily reached by sloops or charter air
service. The Yachtsmen's Guide to the Bahamas is an invaluable guide to all
For further information, write to: Bahamas Development Board,
308 British Empire Bldg., 620 Fifth Avenue, New York 20, N. Y.
TURKS AND CAICOS ISLAND
Definitely unsuited for conventional sightseeing or even sojourning, me
islands are nevertheless highly interesting for their "outpost of the British
Empire" aspect. Together, both groups of coral islets cover 166 square miles
and sit astride a major shipping route from the U. S. to the Greater Antilles.
Ships rarely stop here, though Royal Netherlands Steamship Company
vessels make monthly visits northbound to New York.
Grand Turk, seven by 12 miles, is the kingpin island. Grand Turk has
simple hotel accommodations while other accommodations are available at
Cockburn Harbour, South Caicos. All foodstuffs are imported due to the arid
nature of the island. Salt production is active while lobster and conch fishing
flourishes. Sponge diving was active until uncontrolled collection and disease
ruined the beds.
The only sights are the salt pans at Grand Turk, Salt Cay and South
Caicos. Or the ruins of large plantation homes erected by Georgia Loyalists
who settled South Caicos after the Declaration of Independence. Since 1873
the islands have been a British Crown Colony, and a dependency of Jamaica.
Transport is sketchy. Grand Turk has a fortnightly motor vessel serv-
ice with Kingston, Jamaica; frequent sloop connection between South Caicos
and Haiti, and less often with Puerto Plata in the Dominican Republic; and
a monthly mail sloop link between Inagua (Bahamas) and South Caicos.
How to get there island hopping Puerto Plata Caicos (sloop) occa-
(AIR) sional service.
Weekly (Tues) air service links Cap Haitien Cockburn Harbor (Cal-
Nassau with Grand Turk. cos) (sloop T. J. Trader) frequent
How to get there adventure-style sailing.
(SEA) Cockburn Harbor (S. Caicos) Ina-
Kingston Grand Turk (MV Kirk- gua (Bahamas). A monthly sloop
sons, 300 tons) every three weeks, carries the mails.
For further information, write to: Commissioner, Grand Turk, B.WJ.
Glimpse of Old Spain
Currency, peso 1 peso=U.S. $1.00
imposed upon an attractive Caribbean vista of sun-soaked, yellow-walled
o all American travelers.
On languor and lively chatter it thrives. There's always time in Cuba
c.--- ? -,-'.---
lazy ap of the hands). Live music is everywhere. Gambling is legalized
The very name conjures up visions of a lively, Latin atmosphere super-
imposed upon an attractive Caribbean vista of sun-soaked, yellow-walled
cities, and endless tropic-green panoramas. Add to this the fact that it lies
only a $10 flight away from Florida, that you cross the Tropic of Cancer to
get there, and that you don't have to bother with learning a foreign tongue
to get by, and you have the secret behind this island's immense tourist appeal
to all American travelers.
On languor and lively chatter it thrives. There's always time in Cuba
for one more cup of coffee (waiters are summoned with a quiet hiss, or a
lazy clap of the hands). Live music is everywhere. Gambling is legalized
for tourists yet rattling dice never drown the rattle of the maraca. And it's
an old Latin custom that men never allow long-lashed beauty to pass
without an outspoken compliment. More than likely it is a smattering of this
unabashed enjoyment of life which gives Cuba immense vacation appeal
to Americans. Ask anyone who's been there. Cuba spells fun for everyone
whether it is summer or winter, night or day.
Foremost, that climate! November into April is dreamlike, cooler and
drier than summer months. June-September is the hottest period but trade
winds prevent stifling conditions so often prevalent throughout the US.
Rains fall in summer but always as soon-forgotten tropical showers. Go
somewhere else to escape the heaviest falls in May/June or September/Oct-
ober. Or risk a visit and you'll find sunshine and blue skies somehow always
win the day. Hay fever? Poisonous snakes? Fearsome wild animals? Never
heard of them.
Cuba is longer than the Bahamas group, and longer than the entire
Lesser Antilles chain. Two whole weeks of active traveling and still you
leave with lots unseen and untried. It isn't even possible to pack everything
worthwhile in Havana into a single hectic weekend. For fascinating contrast
you might escape to swank beach hotels and superb bathing at fashionable
Varadero Beach; ocean-cruise to the humpbacked Isle of Pine; or disappear
into cozy hill resorts and spas. With more time, range the length of Cuba.
Not just Matanzas or Santa Clara. Go all the way to Santiago de Cuba, or
Pinar del Rio ... and the exciting beyond. Just for one day quit being a
tourist. See what's in Cuba for travelers. For just as the Out Islands of the
Bahamas enlarge and enrich Nassau's travel picture, so you'll find Cuba out-
side Havana is a barrel of surprises.
Out on the island, city fashions give way to comfortable broad-brimmed
hats and white pajama-style suits while big city billboards in English satisfy-
ingly shrink from the wide open blue skies and rolling fields of sugar,
tobacco, and pineapple subdivided by stately rows of royal palms. Four-leg-
ged beasts take the place of the four-cycle engine. Lumbering oxcarts carry
produce; locals attend funerals on horseback; and there's a delightful pioneer
flavor in the real Cuba where husband and wife ride tandem to the creak of
sun-dried horse leather.
An excellent highway runs along the backbone of the island, turning
the country into a wonderful fairyland of one-night-here and one-night-
there adventures. Side road excursions drag you back through the centuries.
Fleets of comfortable buses become magic carpets that whisk you by dozing
villages, off to the seashore, or way up to cool mountaintops then all the way
You'll never believe what money buys. Most towns now offer good
lodgings while byway places are seldom without something adequate. Rest
rooms at gas stations are increasing. So take heart Cuba also has a/c mo-
tels, complete with private bath, dining room, and weekend dancing. Four
of them conveniently straddle the Central Highway: 10m. W. of Havana; in
Manacas near Sancti Spiritus; Gaspar on Cuba's narrow waistline; and the
Rancho Club, $8Ed, just outside Santiago de Cuba. More are promised.
Opportunities to indulge in sports and recreation of every nature are
almost endless. So whatever your personal interest, the extent of your stay, or
the time of the year, Cuba really does justify its high popularity rating among
Caribbean vacation lands.
Hotel rates approximate Florida price levels, and follow similar seasonal
variations. Peak winter rates last from mid-December until late March or as
late as mid-April at the larger Vedado and Varadero tourist hotels. The
six intervening summer months ... which are cooler than U.S. summers ...
witness a 20%-30% drop in prices.
Winter visitors are less fortunate but can cut vacation costs by seeking
resort hotels primarily catering to Cubans since summer, not winter, is high
season for the Cuban family. Follow other Americans and you'll pay ap-
proximately double off-season rates elsewhere. Taking an electric razor? Cur-
rent jumps from 110 volts to 220 volts from community to community.
Some Havana hotels actually have both in the same building; adapters are
supplied at the desk.
In Havana, eating out adds to the glamour of city life. There are restau-
rants for every pocketbook and taste. Elsewhere take American plan service
at your hotel. Spanish cuisine is good, and varied, and table service generally
good, so the lack of provincial eating places need not deter you from touring
the island. Tip 15% of your bill in Havana; elsewhere 10% is sufficient. Tip
15% to waiters. You also tip bartenders. Porters grunt thanks for 10--15#
a bag; bellhops for 15c-25c; chambermaid, 50c a day ($1 weekly); hat check
girls, 15c-25c; and beauty shop attendants, 25c-50c.
Passports are not needed by native North Americans although proof of
citizenship is obligatory. Naturalized citizens must show their final papers.
Cuban customs allow entry of two cartons of cigarettes duty free. Restric-
tions on firearms are rigid therefore huntsmen should contact the Tourist
Office for details.
Discovered by Columbus in 1492, and this was probably the first time
he declared "the most beautiful land that human eyes have ever seen". The
conquest began in 1510. Baracoa was the first township (1512). Havana was
founded in 1514, then moved north to its present site (1519), and became
the capital of the island in 1556. Until then, Santiago de Cuba was the first
city of the land.
Early settlers massacred the Indian population, then imported negroes
as slaves. Development of the country, however, was hampered by continual
An Anglo-Spanish war resulted in British occupation for a year after
Havana was taken, in which time it became important as a trading port. Then
the British swapped Cuba for possession of Florida. Meanwhile, Spanish sov-
ereignty over the island was continually disputed by discontented Cubans.
After several minor revolts were ruthlessly crushed, the Thirty Years War
began in 1868. Resistance to the Spanish forces was spasmodic. But in 1898
the U.S. battleship Maine mysteriously blew up in Havana harbor. American
forces promptly joined Cuban revolutionists to oust Spain, and Cuban inde-
pendence followed three years later.
Since then, great strides in agricultural, industrial and educational de-
velopment have resulted in Cuba's being one of Latin America's most pro-
Notable Island Celebrations
Feb. 1-3 Ceiba Mocha, Matanzas. Candlemas ceremonies and processions.
Pre-Lent (five weekends) Havana. Comparsa parades, floats, carnival processions,
street dancing, concerts; really worth seeing.
Holy Week Camaguey and Trinidad. Religious pomp.
Good Friday Pinar del Rio. Candle procession. Passion Play at Guines.
Easter Sunday and Monday Arroyo Arenas, Havana. Religious ceremony.
Four weekends after Holy Week Clenfuegos. Carnival.
Corpus Christi. Pinar del Rio. Candle procession.
June (late) Camaguey Colorful carnival.
July (movable date) Sancti Spiritus. Colorful fiesta.
July 24-26 Santiago de Cuba. St. James' Day fiesta. Spectacular parades with
floats, masked spectators.
August Santiago de Cuba. Water carnival.
August 15 Guanabacoa. Our Lady of the Assumption. Procession.
September 8 El Cobre, near Santiago de Cuba. Our Lady of Charity. Procession.
November 16 Havana. St. Christopher's Day. Ceiba tree rites at El Templete;
concert on floodlit plaza.
December 24-25 Parrandas de Noche Buena Calbarien and Remedios.
Getting around the island offers no problem. Internal air services are
reliable and efficient. Rail transport, slow but adequate, runs practically the
length of the island. Use the faster, cheaper and more interesting bus services
operating the length of the paved Central Highway instead.
Hourly buses leave Havana's swank bus station for Santiago de Cuba,
with deluxe, air conditioned coaches available at slightly higher than ordinary
fares. But as the direct run takes around 18 hours, plan to stop off at either
Sancti Spiritus or Camaguey. Both have good hotels. Something new are
guided tours (with English spoken) by Santiago-Habana Bus Line (Prado
416, Havana). All-inclusive 2-day tours start at $39As and run to 5-day
tours for $73As. (Buses are called guaguas in Cuba.)
Havana's city bus service is fast and efficient. If you know just where
you want to go it can be fun. Tip: don't waste time getting on or off. Bus
drivers have a tight schedule ... and they love to keep to it! When you hear
a bus coming in Old Havana, duck into the nearest doorway ... some side-
walks are only 1'-2' wide.
Taxis are for the timid. An upraised flag with the words "se alquila"
is the Cuban's way of saying "for hire." Rates vary in zones. Zone #1, where
minimum fares are 50c plus 10c for additional passengers, $2.50 an hour, or
$20 all-day, includes all Havana uptown to Belascoain and Arroyo Avenues.
Zone #2 extends to Infanta Avenue. Zone No. 3 runs to the Municipal
Beach and 12th Avenue, Vedado, a $1 ride plus 20c for extra passengers
and 10c per bag from the waterfront. Always bargain before entering un-
metered cabs. It will be too late to protest later. Fares to and from Rancho
Boyeros airport for 1-3 persons are $4 (or $1.25 by limousine), and $2.50
to Aerovias "Q" airport.
Stipulated shopping fare is $2 an hour; sightseeing, $3 an hour; or $4
an hour for suburban trips. Special 8 pnm.-2:30 a.m. rates are $10 flat. Thus
a five-passenger taxi touring the city and suburbs between 8 anm. and 2:30
p.m., not exceeding 62 miles travel, isn't likely to run up a bill of more
than $20. Extra waiting time counts at $2 an hour. In the event of disputes,
consult police or tourist office officials.
Car hire rates in Cuba are high unless you know the ropes. Avis and
Hertz drive-yourself models rent for $10 a day, or $50 weekly. Go Cuban
with Couture Car Rentals (Centro Commercial La Rampa #1, Calle 23/
Infanta) and you get identical service for $6-$12 daily. Gas in Cuba sells
at 32c-36c per gallon.
But for long term Cuban vacation, it pays to take your own car. Trans-
portation charges from Key West to Havana are $68.50 round trip. If you
prefer to travel by bus, Greyhound provides connecting service from New
York ($42.10 o.w.) and Miami ($3.80 o.w., $6.85 r.t.), both plus tax.
For visits of less than one year, no entry permit or customs fee is
levied upon automobiles entering Cuba. You will need, however, a customs
clearance form, ownership title, current registration papers, and your opera-
tor's license. To become a good Cuban driver, keep to the right side of the
highway; never exceed 45 mph; and stop before signs marked "Pare" ("siga"
is the word for "go"). Get free road maps from Esso service stations. Now
a caution: watch Cuban traffic-cop hand-signals carefully for they differ
from U.S. signs. When you think a Cuban cop signals you forward, slam on
the brakes. And when you are apparently waved to a stop, play smash and
Harlan's Cuban Vacation Planner
To complete the nine suggested tours given below, setting out from
Havana each time, would require a full three-week vacation. But by combin-
ing just the tours which appeal to you to make progressive itinerary, it is
possible to see the top sights in Cuba in half that time. All tours are listed
in order of tourist interest and, with the exception of the Isle of Pines ex-
cursion, may be started upon any day of the week. Older persons and single
girls usually prefer to join commercial tours. Of course, you'll find Gray
Line in Cuba. Local competitors with English speaking guides are too num-
erous to mention.
a. Havana - half day (morning) In Puerto Rico. Allow 1 /V hours for
Gay, of course . It's Latin; his- this tour whether you take a launch
toric, with Spanish antiquity; fast across the bay or drive through
moving and modern through Ameri- the tunnel, toll 20c. At the
can influence; smart for its French castle, guides charge $3 pp. Make
fashions; glamorous because it is tron- this a day tour by riding any of the
ical: unusual for its gambling various ferries across the bay (50-
casinos, hissing police, and lack of 15t fares) to see ocean liners. fishing
bullfights; and nice, neutral or boats. schooners, and warships. Tip
naughty in its night life. You can't the guitar player aboard then wander
help but effervesce with Habaneros. around Regla. typically Cuban with
ancient trollies, donkey carts, and
To do the sights, join the 9 a.m. street venders. Eastwards is Cojimar,
half hour 25e guided tour of the Ernest Hemingway haunt made fam-
Capitol. Then take a taxi. or a V-2 ous n The Old Man and the Sea, a
bus from Zulueta Street down to the bayside fishing village worth a look.
harbor. De Soto sailed from there to
discover Florida and the Mississippi. Returning to the opposite shore, see
Farther along in time the U.S. bat- the city's open air amphitheatre.
tieship Maine mysteriously blew up Walk, or taxi, along the Malecon to
in 1898. See the Customs House; the see Maceo Park. San Lazaro lookout
old Post Office Bldg., an ex-convent; tower, Naclonal Hotel, and the Maine
yachts and schooners along the water- monument. (Or you might find a
front; and El Templete, a Grecian- cockfight more exciting: matches held
style shrine beside a ceiba tree reput- Saturday to Monday only. tickets. $1
ed to make wishes come true. per person.) The Botanical Gardens
Walk around La Fuerza Castle. Ad- are worth visiting but remember the
jacent are the Plaza de Armas, the gates close at 5 p.m., no entrance
National Library, and the City Hall. charge. Or substitute a visit to the
Out on Cuba Street stands the Treas- Fronton Jai Alai. Games do not be-
ury Building. A couple of blocks back gin until 8:30 p.m.. no play on Mon-
is the cathedral, where Columbus is days or Fridays. Beach enthusiasts
said to have been interred for a while. might drive to La Concha Beach,
For a free rum drink, cross the Marianao for an afternoon's dunking.
square to the Havana Club Room: The best way to sample a cross
visit the City museum two doors away. section of Havana's nieht life is to
Then walk, or bus, along canyon- take a guided tour, $10 per person
like streets to Plaza President Zayas up. This lands you back at your hotel
to see part of the old city walls, the around 1 a.m. For details of night
Presidential Palace. The beautiful Na- club tours (and other tours) con-
tional Museum where periodic concerts sult: Lujan's, Hotel Vedado: Gray
and Spanish plays are staged; and one Line, Prado 515; American Express,
block away, the Corona Cigar factory. Prado 20; Mike Maqua, Prado 256;
By the time you reach the Prado- a or Cook's, 252 Obispo.
replica of Barcelona's Las Ramblas A Few Alternative Top Sights
it will be past noon. There are lunch Around the City
places galore in the vicinity. Merced Church, Cuba Street. A
b. Havana - half day (afternoon) treasurehouse of religious art work.
Walk to the seaward end of the
Prado. passing the shops filled with Santa Clara Convent, now the Pub-
exclusive Parisian modes, to La Punta lic Works Bldg., Cuba Street. Ha
Fortress (built in 1589), now a Cuban Interesting relics from Old Havana,
naval post. Including three original houses.
Across the bay Is Morro Castle, Colon Cemetery, 12th Street.
more impressive and authentic in Principe Fortress. Excellent view-
appearance than San Juan's El Morro point over the city.
Zoological Gardens, 28th Street,
Vedado. Buses 26, 27, and 79 take you
Atares Fortress. Overlooks the har-
bor. Fifty American revolutionaries
were beheaded here late in the 18th
Short Excursions from Havana
Santa Maria del Rosario, one hour
by bus, has mineral springs, and an
Sugar Central (Factory) Visit
sugar-processing mills at Hershey (2-
hour 700 rail trip); Central Provi-
dencia; or the Toledo Central at
Marianao with a permit obtainable
from the Tourist Commission.
Helicopter flights; soon available.
c. Varadero Beach one day, 84
miles east of Havana on north
Famous West Indian seaside resort;
its beaches are better than Paradise
Beach off Nassau, or San Juan, and
more accessible than West Bay in the
Completely weed-free and with
sparkling waters so clear that bottom
can be seen over a hundred feet be-
low, this setting naturally attracts
resort accommodations and crowds of
Miami type and size. Prices, too, are
Florida-like. Fashion says you should
arrive between mid-June and Sept-
ember. All water sports are avail-
able here, including fine skin div-
ing. Non-aquatic activities include
tennis, golf, bowls, riding, and cycl-
ing. But you'll probably like this
peninsula resort more for unique
oldtime features like wandering
musicians, muted radios, an absence
of juke boxes, and scallywag goats
and roosters. Buses leave half-hourly
from Havana. $4.80 r.t. for the 3-hour
run. Planes get you there in % hour
for $7 o.w., $12.60 r.t.
WHERE TO STAY (Varadero)
****V a r a d r o International. 165
rooms. 8 & W, VEA. Smart and ex-
pensive, but offers just about every-
thing you want; swimpool, shops, air
conditioned bar, restaurant, coffee
shop, casino and night club.
****Varadero Oasis. 290 rooms, all
with private bath, VEA. A/c rooms
overlook private patio; cabanas en-
close the pool.
***Casa Happiness, Avenida 1. 27
a/c rooms, EA. Small, homey, and
***Casa La Rosa, Calle 51. 30 rooms,
**"Kawama Club. 130 persons. EA-
VEA. Advance booking essential.
**Dos Mares, Avenida 1. 45 rooms.
**Leon, Ave. 2. 36 rooms, IA-MA.
Quite good. **Torres, Ave. 1. 50 rms,
MA-EA. All rooms have private baths.
Other ** places are: Astoria Inn, Calle
22. 13 rooms. Beti Ona, Ave. 1. 16
rooms. Chez Rolg, Ave. 1. 22 rooms.
Espinosa Inn, Ave. 1. 23 rooms. Villa
Clara, Ave. 1. 20 rooms. For accom-
modations try the Varadero, Ave. 1.
28 rooms, I, or Marysol, Ave. 2, 20
rooms, LA. Kastillito is the place for
lively night life.
d. Vinales Valley one day, 109
miles west of Havana.
Interesting scenic ride culminating
in a visit to the unique mogotes (huge
limestone outcrops) dotting a flat
valley floor. Best reached by bus from
Havana to Pinar del Rio: departures
every 1% hours from 5:30 a.m., fare
$3.50 r.t. Then catch a local bus,
usually overcrowded, from the mar-
ketplace for Vinales and San Vicente
village, fare 50c r.t.
Other points of interest in the
region are Isabel Maria Valley; Luis
Lazo Valley; Soroa; San Diego de los
Banos, medicinal springs; and Bahia
Honda, good beach and swimming.
WHERE TO STAY (Vinales), 55 miles
west of Havana.
From your hotel drive into somnol-
ent La Esperanza, see the fishing boats
then watch bats stream from a nearby
cave around 6.30-7 p.m. nightly.
**San Vicente. 20 rooms. IA-
MA. Only a wooden structure, but
has most attractive surroundings.
Free mineral water bathing.
**Rancho San Vicente. 40 rooms.
MA. Attractive resort gardens, miner-
al water bathing; 10% reductions for
***Soroa Resort. 227 rooms and cot-
tages. Pleasant setting by waterfall
and with fine panoramic views. Has
DR service and 9-hole golf course.
Nearer to Havana is San Diego de los
Banos and a choice of overnight
facilities at: **Mirador, 40 rooms,
IA. All rooms have private baths
Surroundings, cuisine and leisure
activities are pleasant enough for a
stay. Optional places are the **Sara-
toga, IA: **Cabarrony, IA: or board-
ing homes (LA) without private bath.
Mineral spring treatment is offered
at the new 4-story Balneario over-
looking the river. Medical examina-
tion costs $5 for a 3-month period.
Individual baths are 50I in the pub-
lic pool, or $1 in private.
e. Matanzas and the Bellemar Caves
- one day, 84 miles east of Havana.
The town of Matansas is known for
Its old buildings and Monserrate
Hermitage. Bellamar Caves are 1%/
miles away. A guided tour, fee $1,
takes 1 hour. Good restaurant attach-
ed, so order a meal as you go under-
ground. Visit the Yumurl Valley, local
scenic spot, if you have time.
Hourly buses serve Matanzas, fare
$2.60 r.t. from Havana. There are four
trips daily on the Hershey Railroad,
fare $2.90 r.t.
Car tours including sightseeing
and lunch run $13 pp.
Stay at the **Velasco, 66 Calle
Byrne, 92 rooms, MA. All these
rooms have private baths. **Louvre,
Plaza Libertad. Rooms only fair but
varied menu provided. **Yara, 45
Calle Byrne. I.
f. Isle of Pines three days (two
days by plane)
The perfect antidote after a spell
of Havana's exhausting pace and
hectic night life. The islands are ap-
proached from Batabano, sponge fish-
ing centre; steamers sail daily ex-
cept Sunday, fare $11.40 r.t. includ-
ing rail passage from Havana. Plane
service is twice daily, $7 o.w., $12.60 r.t.
Steep-sided marble mountains, their
rounded peaks delicately veiled in
morning mist, dwarf your tiny ship
as it approaches the capital town,
Nueva Gerona. Along the river banks
a score of trim, white-hulled fishing
craft flap snowy white sails against a
skyline of rustling royal palms. A true
South-Seas setting, indeed.
Much of the Isle of Pine's glamour
springs from the friendly spirit of
the racially-mixed islanders, the in-
formal level of resort living, lack of
traffic jams and parking, free port
shopping, and a profusion of sub-
tropic verdure with fence posts taking
root and wild orchids flourishing by
You'll see chic women carrying
parasols; ragged youngsters making
music with home-made drums, tin
can instruments or grass blades. The
motorists slay chickens, dogs and
goats that wander through the
streets; yet the hideous carrion birds
squat unharmed on every roof and
wall. There are mud streets between
attractive pastel-tinted cottages. And
fine roads where no buildings yet
exist. Even the island seems mis-
named. For it's really palm trees, not
pines, which predominate.
Formal sights include the Presidio,
a model penitentiary built of solid
marble (free conducted tours are
given daily at 9 a.m.); El Abra. a
country residence where Marti. Cuba's
hero, recuperated after imprisonment
in Morro Castle; Jones' Jungle, free
adm., an attractive arboretum; and
for the adventuresome, excursions to
a disused gold mine, Indian caves, or
treasure and alligator hunting trips.
But trips to Santa Barbara, 50c r.t.,
and Santa Fe, 40c r.t., unfold all
types of tropical scenery. The banyan
"tunnel" on the former run is unique.
Bathing is good from Columbo
beach (yellow sands), or Bibijagua
(black sand). Often, however, the lat-
ter, a private beach, is too weedy to
be attractive. Buses do not serve
either place but taxis are available.
Whatever you do, bargain beforehand.
Aboriginals called this lovely island
Camaraco. Columbus changed that to
Evangellsta. Many visitors like the
sound of Treasure Island, for the link
it gives to Stevenson's famous story.
I think of it as the Isle of Palms.
Many oldtimers call it the Forgotten
Isle because of the island's severance
from Cuba after the Spanish Ameri-
But for tourists, the Forgotten Isle?
No . Never!
Best accommodations are found at
the ****El Colony, Siguanea (50
rooms, VEA), a deluxe resort hotel;
Rancho El Tesoro (30 rms, all a/c,
SE-WVE), spacious riverside motel
units and tree-shaded patio pool,
nightly dancing, private dock and
boats, and riding horses; Bamboo Club
(a/c cabins, M-E) with fine meals
and swimpool; Shangri La, also mod-
ern; ***Rancho Rockyford (8 rms,
SEA, WVEA), 12m. from town in a
quiet location where standing features
are swimpool and tennis courts,
horses at $1 a ride, jeep for $10 a
day, good barbecues, and chances for
boating. ***Casa Manana, highly re-
commended. ***Bibljagua Beach Ho-
tel. Plush, overlooking black sand
beach. **Santa Fe, in Santa Fe. 50
rooms, MA-EA. plus $1 airport trans-
fer. There is a large swimpool, sports
& cycles. The **Isle of Pines, Nueva
Gerona, IA-MA, is set in cool grounds.
**Mrs. Kelton's Boarding House. 4
de Septiembre, Nueva Gerona. $6As,
*Virginia, 6 Marti, Nueva Gerona.
$1Es. Plain accommodation, fairly
good restaurant below. (Most popular
with visitors is the Treasure Chest).
g. Trinidad four days
Charming hill-town with Taxco-
like streets wedged between lofty hills
overlooking the Caribbean. Founded
in 1514 but only recently reached by
a good road. To preserve its old world
quality, the city has been named a
See the Palacio de Cantero, and the
Iznagas and Borrells homes: the
Palacios, Frias and Torrados art col-
lections. Walk up la Vigia (see caves
on the way). There are good beaches
below the town. And Topes de Collante
affords a superb view of the entire
The train journey from Havana
takes 11 hours; the last lap is most
scenic. Fare from Santa Clara on the
Central Highway is $3.53 r.t. Air fare
from Havana, a 2-hour flight, is $10
o.w., $18 r.t. Endure mediocrity at
*La Ronda, Capdevlla, 28 rooms,
h. Santiago de Cuba . five days
Six hundred miles from Havana,
hemmed between scenic mountains
and a six-mile long bay with an en-
trance narrowing to 200' in one place,
the "Pearl of the East" is a striking
colonial city of 166,384 persons. The
downtown section, perched high on
a hill, is a puzzle of narrow crooked
streets grouped around three plazas,
and overlooks green islets floating
across the bay. Faces on the
streets are noticeably more negroid
than elsewhere in Cuba. The prin-
cipal sights are Morro Castle (bus 22.
change to 33), nearby DR and
swimpool; Bacardi Rum factory
and museum; cathedral; Peace Tree
and park at San Juan Hill (buses,
5c, go within two blocks); El Caney
Fort, good viewpoint; Zoological Gar-
dens; El Cobre Sanctuary, 13 miles
out, on the Central Highway; and
Puerto Boniato, 1,200' above the town
with a superb view. DR/bar . and
if the day is hot, the opportunity to
whoosh through green countryside
by bus into sluggish El Cristo. And
don't miss the Sunday night parade
of the sexes around the main plaza.
If you understand Spanish, you'll en-
joy the exchange of piropo's, un-
inhibited comments from the men
to the wom-n circling in the opposite
Authorized guides, $3 per half day
plus fares, may be found at the Tour-
ist Office beneath the main cathedral
steps. They'll even walk or travel by
bus with you to help cut costs.
Siboney Beach, a tourist spot 12
miles along the coast, offers good
swimming with locker and snack bar
facilities provided. Punta Gorda beach
is popular with Cubans. The Country
Club has a good golf links.
Local bus service, 5c per stage, is
frequent and good. Taxi from the
town to the airport is $1 per person.
Air travel from Havana takes 31/2
hrs (four times daily), fare $25 o.w.,
$45 r.t. Several times daily a/c buses
leave Havana for Santiago de Cuba,
$12.80 o.w. There is also daily a/c
day coach train service, $15.05 r.t.
(Pullman berth, $18 o.w.).
WHERE TO STAY (Santiago de Cuba)
***Rancho Club (M), a modern
**Casa Granda, 201 Heredia. 53
rooms. I-E. Spacious rooms, good food
and service; cool perh verlools
plaza and cathedral.
**Venus, 658 Hartmann. 50 rooms.
**Gran, 606 Hartmann. I. Attrac-
tive rooms; outside rooms are rather
**Imperial, 251 Saco. 47 rooms.
*La Libertad. I.
*Casa Exposito, 65 Heredia. L. Two
blocks down slope from main plaza.
Shabby looking, but adequate; good
food served, 650 a meal up (a la
carte service) no breakfasts.
WHERE TO EAT
El Balcon, Puerto Bonlato. Moun-
tainside cafe with wonderful view of
city and bay. Buses stop at the door.
Boston Cafe, Hartmann. Opposite
Venus Hotel. Good snacks at reason-
Jimmy's Souvenirs, 253 Saco Street.
Next to Imperial Hotel; open Sun-
days. See the Portuguese and Mexi-
can silverware; French perfumes; al-
ligator leather goods; Fans, etc.
i. Clenfuegos three days
Attractive port city with quasi-
modern aspect. Jagua Castle and the
Botanical Gardens are the main
sights. Out of town spots worth visit-
ing are the Hanabanlla Falls, Cuba's
best; or the Damuji River (boats avail-
able). On the third Sunday of July,
a large regatta is held in Cienfuegos
Buses take 6-8 hours to reach Cien-
fuegos from Havana; fares, $8.60 r.t.
Planes take 11 hrs. only.
Newest hostelry is the 22-room
**Bahia, M. Others are: **San Carlos,
60 rooms, I-M; most rooms have
private baths. **Pasacaballos, 16
rooms, IA. Landscaped grounds are
attractive; tennis and fishing Is
available. *Bristol, 40 rooms, IA.
j. Marlel and Cabanas one day,
west of Havana.
Mariel, a bayside fishing settlement,
has boats for hire. See the Naval
Academy and Museum. Cabanas, a
few miles west, and Bahia Honda,
have good beaches and safe swim-
WHERE TO STAY (Martel)
Villa Martin. Small but good. Serve
excellent fish dishes.
Places to Linger a Few Hours
By adding a few extra hours, or
even a full day, to your Cuban itiner-
ary, you can round out your glimpse
of the country with little experiences
denied the tourist content to pas
through, or bypass, thee places
Ideal for water sport enthusiasts.
You'll need permission to use the
Yacht Club and Military Club beaches.
As good, however, is the beach at the
Los Ensenachos Club. Jose Rodal is
the public beach.
Punta Gorda; Guajanes Caves, Su-
ella Hills; the offshore cays offer ex-
cellent swimming, and fishing, and
marine gardens. Stay, unless It can
be avoided, at the 43-room *Comercio,
Famed for its tinajones, huge earth-
enware "Ali Baba" receptacles form-
erly used as fresh water tanks. See
the Museum, and La Crlolla Pottery
Works. Even today, the narrow
streets, grilled windows, overhanging
balconies, and shaded patios give the
city a definite colonial atmosphere.
Cubitas Caves wall painting (allow
two hours by car).
WHERE TO STAY (Camaguey)
***Residencial, 60 Avenida le los
Martires. 120 rms. M. Pleasant, well-
furnished rooms, good cuisine, bar.
Five minutes from railroad station.
**Plaza, Calle Avellaneda. 100
rooms. I. Faces railroad station. Good
Spanish cuisine, bar service.
**Gran, 67 Maceo. 150 rooms. I-M.
Old but acceptable.
**Colon, 472 Calle Republica. 75
rooms. I. Typical Latin hostelry, good
*New York. L.
Nearest city to Varadero Beach;
best known for its active social and
Stay at the**Louvre, Cespedes (16
rooms, I), or **La Dominica (25
rooms, L), the best available.
Central Highway junction for Trini-
dad. Visit the Chapel of the Rosary;
El Jibaro; Loma del Obispo; Banao
Hill; Zaza del Medio; Hornos del Col
caves; and Tayabacoa Beach.
WHERE TO STAY (Sancti Splritus)
**Perla de Cuba, 2 Gulteras. 40
Visit Carmen Church and the two
museums; Central University; and
the Art School. Put up at the new
a/o ***Gran, 180 rooms. Or **Santa
Clara (40 rooms, I-M., all rooms with
private baths); **Central, 20 Parque
(40 rooms, I).
Other towns likely to interest over-
night visitors are: CAIBAIGUAN
***Sevllla, comfortable rooms and
good lunch spot. GUANABO ***Puerto
frincipe Club (33 rooms, all with
private baths, EA. ***Cuanda's Club
(20 rooms, EA). ***Guamo Club (8
cabins, American Plan only during
winter, WVE). MAYAJIGUA **San Jose
del Lago (80 rooms, VE), situated one
mile from town in beautiful grounds
with lake, swimpool, and cabanas;
has been a spa since the conquista-
dores arrived. SAN MIGUEL DE LOS
BANOS (best Cuban spa) Stay at the
attractive Balneario; provides min-
eral baths and pool swimming. Other
places: **Villaverde (50 rooms, IA-
MA), **Cuba, 36 rooms, SIA.
WHAT TO DO
But there's more to Cuban vacations than formal sightseeing. Havana
in particular is jam-packed with every possible recreation and amusement.
Latest development is the huge sports "city" seventy acres in extent, just
outside the city. There are stadiums to hold 75,000 persons, several sports
fields, swimpools, four tennis courts, and a children's park with miniature
railway and a lake. Entertainments include a succession of ice shows, boxing
bouts, rodeos, circuses, and fencing bouts. Take the "Cerro" bus from town
to the Stadium.
At the Havana Stadium, baseball is played nightly in winter, and several
times weekly at the University and Tropical Stadiums. Jai alai may be seen
six nights weekly at Fronton Jai Alai, 556 Concordia, or at the Fronton
Havana-Madrid, 803 Belascoain (afternoon matches here, too.) And there's
boxing every Saturday night at the Sports City.
Horse racing takes place several times weekly at Oriental Park, Mar-
ianao. At the Fifth Avenue Stadium, from December until April, dog races
are held nightly, except Mondays. Cockfights are regularly waged at the
Valla Habana, Agua Dulce Square; admission, 704-$2 per person.
The tennis and golf privileges of private clubs in Havana and resident-
ial sections are only made available to visitors when arriving as guests of a
member. Restrictions do not apply to the Rovers Club, Rancho Boyeros
Road, or the Hershey Club where your rail ticket covers green fees. La Concha
Beach has a good tennis court open to visitors. Havana also offers bowling,
and skeet and trap shooting.
For picnics, with meals and drinks available on the spot, both the
Tropical and the Polar Gardens are hard to beat. Buses run nearby although
a car is much more convenient for a party.
Gulf Stream sailing is unusually good. Special events to watch for are
the St. Petersburg (Fla.)-Havana race in March; Havana harbor rowboat
races in mid-summer; and the Star Class regatta in January.
Concert goers should head for the Auditorium Theatre or Palace of
Fine Arts. The Lyceum, Lawn Tennis Club, and Casa Cultural de Catolicas
provide lectures and occasional art exhibits.
Opportunities for swimming abound although beaches are not as num-
erous as you might imagine for an island the size of Cuba. La Concha Beach,
reached by bus #32, is the only public strand near Havana. Adm. is $1 week-
days, $1.30 on Sundays. Several hotels, the Country Club, and Club Deportivo
have swimming pools. Farther afield is Santa Fe beach, one hour west by car;
Baracoa; Mariel; Guanabo, reached by car; Santa Maria del Mar (private
beach apartments here are $10 up per day); Varadero, 84 miles; and Playas
Cuba, Hermosa, Veneciana, and Jibacoa (50 miles).
Facilities for fishing are not too well developed but improvements are
under way. Here are a few suggestions for profitable fishing.
Havana Well known fishing grounds:
visitors may enter for the annual
Hemingway Trophy. Commonest
catches in winter are sailfish, tuna,
barracuda, and wahoo. Marlin up to
850 pounds are most plentiful in
summer; yellowtail in March and
April; serrucho off river mouths: and
sharks the year around. Charter rates
run $45 per half day, or $60 a day
Cojimar, near Havana. Bonita, dol-
phin (Oct.-Feb.), sailfish and shark.
Marlel, westwards. Marlin.
Pledra and Diana Cays
Batabano Excellent for tarpon, mar-
lin, sailfish and wahoo. Boats and
Caibrlen, Los Ensenachos Cay, Sabl-
nal and Coco Cays. and Cayo Romano.
Boats, tackle, and guides available.
Gardens of the Queen, the group of
cays off Camaguey Province's south
Clenfuegos Tarpon off the DamuJi
River; boats and equipment for hire.
Trinidad Jewfish, k I ng f s h, and
Santiago Good for tarpon. Boats and
tackle obtainable from the Amateur
Fishing Club, Punta Gorda.
(For data on fresh water fishing,
apply to the Tourist Commission.)
Cuban hunting laws are complicat-
ed and restrictive. But the Tourist
Commission obtains the necessary
license for you from the Ministry of
Interior upon receipt of a money
order for $14.78 and two 1" x 1"
photos. Ask for detailed instructions
ruling at the season of your visit.
BEST SPORTING AREAS
Pinar del Rio Province
Pigeon San Diego; Las Martinas.
Wildfowl Cabo Lagoon, and most
Deer Vinales area, Candelaria and
around La Caloma.
Las Villas Province
Duck Tajes Lagoon.
Pigeon; Wildfowl; Deer
Allgators Zapata Swamp
Wild boar Cayo Romano (wild
Isle of Pines
Alligator Quail Duck
Wildfowl White-headed pigeon
Pigeon Particularly plentiful.
How to get there direct (AIR)
New York Havana (Cubana) (Nat'l)
daily, 4% hrs., $76.10 o.w., $132.75
Miami Havana (KLM) four times
weekly, 1 hrs.; (National)
daily, 1 hr.; (PAA) daily, 1 hr.;
fares, $22.50 o.w. (29 hour ex-
New Orleans Havana (Delta & Na-
tional) daily, 3% hrs., $66 o.w.,
16-day excursion $103.
Key West Havana (Aerovias "Q")
daily, 3/4 hr., $10 o.w., $20 r.t.
Miami Camaguey (PAA) daily, 1%
hrs., $31 o.w., 30-day excursion
How to get there direct (SEA)
New York-Havana (United Fruit Co.)
via freighter, $126 o.w.
New York Havana (Spanish Line)
3 days, $80 o.w. (4-berth cabin
New York Havana (Ward Line)
weekly. 3 1/2 days, $100 o.w.,
New Orleans Havana (United Fruit)
weekly, 2 days. $70 o.w.
New Orleans Havana (Standard
Fruit Co.) 3 days, $85 o.w.
New Orleans Havana (Sidarma)
Houston-Havana (Lykes) fortnightly,
2 days, $60 o.w.
Galveston Santiago (Lykes) fort-
nightly, $70 o.w.
Key West Havana (City of Havana)
three times weekly. 7 hrs., $13.50
o.w., $23.50 r.t. (autos, $68.50 r.t.,
30 day limit.)
How to get there adventure-style
(schooner Polynesia) monthly,
9-10 days r.t. cruise, $150-$200
plus $20 r.t. air fare to Miami.
Visits half a dozen offbeat cays
en route to Cuba. Get more data
from PO Box 1051, Miami Beach
How to get there Island hopping
Santiago de Cuba Port au Prince
(Cubana) weekly, 1% bra., $25
o.w., $45 r.t.
Havana-Port au Prince (Delta) (Cu-
bana) $49 o.w., $88.20 r.t.
Camaguey Port au Prince (PAA)
daily, 1% hrs., $40 o.w., $72 r.t.
Havana Nassau (BOAC) (Cubana)
twice weekly, 2 hrs., $30 o.w.,
Havana Caracas (Venezuela) thrice
weekly, 5% bra., $125 o.w.
How to get there island hopping
Nassau Havana (Pacific Steam Nav.
Co.) every 12 weeks, 1 day.
Havana Kingston (Pacific Steam
Nav. Co.) every 12 weeks, 1 day.
Santiago Port au Prince (Saguenay
Terminals) fortnightly, 15 hrs.
Santiago Kingston. Infrequent
Isle of Pines Havana (steamer/
train) daily except Sunday, $11.40
r.t. Incl. rail fare.
Curacao-Havana (Colonial de Nave-
gaceo) cabin $140 o.w., tourist
Vera Cruz-Havana (Spanish Line).
WHERE TO STAY (Havana)
Choose from this listing to be close
to downtown activities. Escape city
noises which last from dawn until
after midnight by staying in Vedado,
a residential suburb reached by 8c
bus or $1 cab fare. Most hotels pro-
vide 110 volt A.C. current. If not,
transformers are usually supplied.
****Deauville, Malecon/Gallano. 143
rms, VEA. Deluxe downtown hotel.
****Sevilla Blltmore, 255 Prado. 350
rooms. E-VE. Largest downtown ho-
tel catering to tourist traffic; has
0***Commodoro, 72 y Mar, Miramar.
96 rooms. VEA. New, air conditioned
place; has swimpool. cabanas, tennis
courts, & solarium. Free car service.
***Copacabana, Miramar. 132 a/c
rooms, EA-VEA. Has two swimpools,
cabanas, boats, and private trans-
portation into town. Overlooks surf-
washed sea wall.
***Plaza, 267 Zulueta. 300 rooms.
M-E. Noisy, but a great favorite with
Americana; E plan only. Has beauty
salon and a radio in every room.
***Inglaterra, 146 Prado. 90 rooms.
M-E. Old but atmospheric, and cen-
***Parkview, 101 Colon. 80 rooms.
M-E. Comfortable, air conditioned
rooms popular with Americans.
***Packard, 51 Prado. 90 rooms.
M-E. Medium-sized, up to date & air
conditioned: E plan only.
***Lincoln, 14 Italia. 126 rooms.
M-E. Good downtown location.
***Rosita de Hornedo, apartment
hotel with swimpool, good meals, and
**Caribbean, Prado. M. Pleasant
rooms, friendly Cuban management.
**Bristol, 305 Amistad. 94 rooms.
M. Quite good.
**Caribbean. 50 rooms. One of the
"Royal Palm, 354 Industria. 150
rooms. M-E. Large, centrally situated
Spanish style place; E plan only.
**Ambos Mundos, 153 Obispo. 54
rooms. I-M. Rather old, but still un-
der good management.
**Ocean, 69 Malecon. 65 rooms.
**New York, 156 Dragones. 99
**Perla de Cuba, 458 Amistad. 55
**San Luis, 73 P. Varela 100 rooms.
*Saratoga, 603 Prado. 90 rooms.
**Surf, 31 Malecon. 58 rooms. I.
**Ritz, 514 Neptuno. 74 rooms. I-M.
"Gran America, 502 Industria. 45
**San Carlos, 507 Belgica. 45 rooms.
**Siboney, 355 Prado. 40 rooms. I-M.
*Catedral. 6 San Ignaclo. 32 rooms.
L-I. Traditional, Spanish-style hos-
telry; good low cost meals.
WHERE TO STAY (Vedado)
****Nacional de Cuba, 21st Street.
549 rooms. VEA. Smart, luxury hotel
overlooking the sea: air conditioned
rooms available. Excellent food in
three restaurants. Has dancing, two
swimpools. putting green, and tennis
****Habana Hilton. 588 rooms, VE.
Deluxe in every way.
****Havana Riviera, Paseo y Mar.
400 rms, each overlooking ocean, SEA-
WVEA. A/c throughout; facilities in-
clude elegant tropical-decor DRs, two
large pools, solarium, sidewalk cafe,
casino, dancing, and entertainment.
***Saint John Hotel. 108 a/c
rooms, VE. Deluxe 16 story place,
close to La Rampa shopping section.
****Presidente. 110 Avenue de los
Presilntes. 154 rooms, some a/c
EA-VEA. American-Cuban clientele,
good cuisine; swimpool, beauty shop.
****Vedado, O & 25th Street. 71
rooms. EA. Attractive & new; air con-
ditioned rooms $2 extra. Known for
good food; has swimpool, & radio in
**Bruezon. M. Good.
**Apartment Hotel, 19th Street. 118
**Victoria, 101 19th Street. 83
rooms. MA. Good, plain hotel.
**Toledo, 0 Street. M. Good, stu-
dent type place.
**Azul, 158 Avenue de los Presl-
dentes. 16 rooms. IA.
*Trotcha, 760 Calzada. 45 rooms.
LA. Modest, but has a most attractive
*Miss Ross's Boarding House, 68
Fourth Street. This, and similar plac-
es, make ideal quarters for protracted
WHERE TO EAT (Havana)
****La Floridita, Ave. Belgica. Excel-
lent international cuisine, high prices.
Popular with Americans; a/c.
****La Reguladora, 412 Amistad. Es-
tablished 1879, and still one of the
best. Well patronized but quietest for
****Zaragozana, 355 Belgica. First
class food seafood is the specialty
- served in century old atmosphere.
****Miami, Prado/Neptuno. Has a
name for quality meals & quick serv-
ice. U.S. style breakfast from $1;
lunch, $2 upwards.
****Palermo Club, San Miguel. A
favorite with modernists. Music until
the early hours.
***Vista Ale re, Malecon/Belascoain.
Old place of high repute; faces sea.
***Ambos Mundos, Obispo Street.
Known for its continental cuisine at
medium prices. Good city view.
***El Templete, 1 Narclso Lopez.
Cuban type eating place; serves ex-
***Inglaterra, Prado/San Rafael.
***La Maravilla, 351 Villegas. Typi-
cal fonda; good steaks.
***Radlocentro, 23rd St. Modern
good meals, $2 up. Bar.
**Moishe Plplk, 211 Acosta. Jewish-
American cuisine. a/c.
**Paciflco. Zanja Street. Chinese
dishes, usually good.
**La Pescadora. 55 Carcel. Estab-
lished 1880; tasty seafoods.
"Toledo, 520 Aguila. Good Spanish
**Bahta, 56 Ave. del Puerto. Cuban
eating place: seafood specialties.
**Prado 86, 264 Prado. Good place
for quick counter meal, low prices.
**America, Ave. de Italia. Pleasant
Chinese cafe; breakfast from 80c.
**Frascatl's, 357 Prado. Good, first
floor, Italian restaurant.
**Oriental, Neptuno. Chinese food.
**Charley Sing's, Prado Reasonably
priced for all meals.
**Daytona, 306 Amistad. Chinese
owned; Latin cuisine.
**La Victoria, Officlos/Luz. Unpre-
tentious but serves good meals; effi-
cient table service.
**Puerto de Sagua, 415 Acosta. Sea-
*Fonda de Cuba, 359 Empredrado.
Just the place for budgeteers; typical
WHERE TO EAT (Vedado)
***La Arboleda, Hotel Nacional.
Swank, rather formal, but nonethe-
less attractive surroundings; inter-
national cuisine. Has nightly dancing.
"***Aire Mar, 21st Street. Serves
American foods & seafoods.
****Chez Merito, Presidente Hotel.
Distinctive, air conditioned dining
room; continental cuisine, table d'-
hote or a la carte service. Bar. One of
Havana's best eating places.
****Colony, 21st Street. Hungarian
owned, Spanish style restaurant; good
European cuisine, meals from $1.75
to recorded music.
****Vienes, K/21st Street. Pleasant.
Austrian managed hostelry with good
meals, from $1.75, served on terrace.
Air conditioned bar.
***Castillo de Jugua, 23rd/G Street.
Good steaks and seafoods.
***El Carmelo, 23rd Street. Cafe/
DR offering hearty meals at reason-
***Monseigneur, 21st Street. Quite
**Palacio de Crystal, San Jose
**Willle's Club, N/21st Street. Good
meals. Also has bar & gift shop.
WHERE TO EAT (Suburbs)
***La Concha, Marianao Beach.
First class cuisine.
****Rio Cristal Club, Rancho Boy-
eros Road. Most attractive setting;
good meals and service. A real treat.
***El Chico Club. Roadhouse style
overlooking sea; good cuisine.
***El Sitio, Wajay Road. Good lunch
spot for Cuban fare.
**El Aljibe. Good food; half hour
**Yank. Faces Sans Souci night
club. American style cuisine.
Dirty Dick's, Zulueta. Facsimile of
Sloppy Joe's, Zulueta. Offers drinks
of every possible variety; but the
place itself is quite ordinary.
Pan American Club, O'Reilly Street.
Spacious, nicely appointed.
Dos Hermanos. Known as the Two
Brothers to most seamen and tourists;
Aire del Mar, 21st Street. Popular.
Club 23, 23rd Street. Good cocktail
Tally Ho! 23rd Street. Has DR.
(Most places provide varying de-
grees of gambling.)
Tropicana, Truffin Avenue, Buena
Vista. The largest, best and most
attractive setting. First class floor
shows with lots of scanties. Minimum
charge is $6, whatever you order.
Sans Souci. Well established club,
open winter only, Has casino, good
meals, attractive floor shows, & dan-
cing to two orchestras. Cover charge:
$5-$6. Twelve miles from town.
Casino Paristen, Hotel Nacional de
Cuba, 21st Street. Quality atmosphere;
Panchin, Marianao. Soft lights, low
Pennsylvania, Mlramar/5th Avenue,
Marianao. Lively dance club.
Colonial, Officios Street. Water-
front joint, rather noisy but quite
acceptable. Floor show, and drinking
WHAT TO BUY
Because of the relatively high prices, and comparative absence of local
native handicrafts, Cuba cannot be recommended for shopping excursions.
However, if Havana is your only West Indian port of call, a few items are
If unadulterated, French perfumes are a good buy. Other good buys:
alligator leather goods if skins are soft and pliable; jewelry; pottery; wood
carvings; French silken and linen goods (slightly cheaper than US. prices);
pearls as well as gold and diamond-studded jewelry; and maracas. Cuban
rum sells from $1.50 (6-year)-$3.45 (12-year). Cigars are not a steal,
cash-wise; the very best brands are H. Upmann; Corona; Hoyo de Monterrey;
Partagas; Jose L. Piedra; and Romeo & Julieta.
Most shops are found along the Prado; Obispo; Galiano; San Rafael
and Monte Street. Midday dosing is customary, noon-2:30 p.m. Banks dose
Saturday. By contrast, souvenir shops never cose.
Alcazar, 262 Consulado. Also Im-
ported porcelain, ivory. Paintings.
L'Art Mondial, Radiocentro. Chinese
La Bohemia, 60 Neptuno. Books
about Cuba; newspapers.
Casa Belga, 455 O'Reilly. French &
Cervantes, 527 Obispo. English &
La Modern Poesia, Obispo. Large
Costumes & Clothing
El Sol, Manzana de Gomes Blds.
Payret, 505 Prado. Panama hats.
Quinta Avenida, 554 Italia. Tailor-
ed Cuban sportswear.
Drug & Dept. Stores
Berens Modas, 307 Neptuno. Good
for perfumes & jewelry.
El Encanto, San Rafael/Italia. Nice
selection of handbags. Largest and
best of the department stores.
Fin de Siglo. San Rafael. One of
the best dept. stores.
Sears Roebuck. Alligator leather
goods, and liquor. Customers get free
perfume with every purchase.
Sanchez Mola, 208 San Rafael. All
kinds of souvenirs.
Handicrafts & Curios
Woolworths. Fans are fine souvenirs
Gomez Sisters, 412 Consulado.
Guerlain, 157 Prado. Perfumes, pri-
Soils, 316 San Rafael.
Willies Club, 21st Street. Vedaeo.
Casa del Perro, 210 Neptuno. Fine
alligator leather goods.
Casa Lopez, O'Reilly Street. Ditto.
Herman's, 256 Prado. Recommended.
Montane, Obispo. Shoes for men &
women, made to measure.
Phllas Handbag Factory, 361 25th
Lingerie & Linens
Carmen Carrega, 155 Prado Avenue.
Good mantillas at reasonable prices.
Madame Sardi, 254 Prado Avenue.
La Nueva Isla, Monte Street. Best
Lydla. 462 Aguila Street. Also has
attractive Spanish dolls.
Modas Laura, 357 San Rafael. Se-
lection of leather goods, too.
Rose Alligator Goods, 16 Cathedral
Square. Sells cigars.
Sanchez Mola, 208 San Rafael. Has
most French perfumes.
Casa Morris, 505 Prado Avenue.
Caribbean Photo Co., 3 San Rafael.
Kodak Cubana, Ltd., 23rd St/O-P,
Minicam, 305 Neptuno Street. 24
hour D & P service.
Silver & Jewelry
Barquet, 157 San Rafael.
Bijou, 361 25th Street. French Jew-
elry; Swiss watches.
Casa Quintana, 358 Italia.
El Gallo, 402 Industria.
Cuervo y Sobrinos, One of the
largest jewelry stores in Havana.
OTHER USEFUL ADDRESSES
Cuban Tourist Commission. 109
Capdevila, Havana (also at 610 Rocke-
feller Center, Fifth Ave., New York).
U.S. Embassy, Calzada/K St., Veda-
British Embassy, Capdevila.
Canadian Embassy, 16 Menocal Ave.
American Express, 20 Prado.
Cook's, 252 Obispo.
Currency, peso 1 Peso=U.S. S1.00
Such intensive efforts have been made to make this corner of Old Spain
an attraction to American visitors that it almost lacks the refreshing differ-
ence met with among other West Indian islands. It is true that hotels are
mostly modern and spotlessly clean; that service is excellent; that the high-
ways are very good, and still improving, and that scenery runs the gamut
from hot and dry desertlands to frigid climes of lofty mountain peaks.
Even the people themselves seem intent upon making you feel at home
with them. But despite all this, the Dominican Republic seems soulless. There
just isn't enough Latin warmth and liveliness in the everyday life of the
country. Even so, it remains a corner of Old Spain despite the extensive
drive for modernization in recent years.
Under government impetus many smart ultra-modern hotels are going
up all over the country, so that finding accommodations in provincial areas
is not the discouraging process it so often is in rural sections of other islands
in the Greater Antiles. Summer reductions average 10%-30%. You'll find
prices around 20% more than in neighboring Haiti. Meals are Spanish-style
outside resort areas. For best values in restaurants, order "plato del dia" or
table d'hote. But for a treat try lechon asado, a favorite Yuletide dish; or
salcocho. If you get around Puerto Plata, where many Italians have settled,
order the really good local pasta dishes. Tip 10%-15%, or as you would at
Tourist Card: $5.60 for 15 days (renewable for longer periods after
arrival), obtained from travel agents. One photo is needed.
Red Cross Tax: 5% levy on all travel tickets irrespective of destination.
DOMINICAN REPUBLIC BACKGROUND
Columbus landed on the north shore in 1492 and named the island His-
paniola. The Indian inhabitants soon died off or were killed by Spanish
settlers. That gave the island the privilege of being the first New World
land to import slaves from Africa. Development of the country got His-
paniola off to a good start commercially and culturally. But once gold and
silver were found in vast quantities in Mexico and Peru, decline set in.
Haitians twice conquered the country and were twice driven out. Since
1844 Santo Domingo, as the republic was then named, has remained inde-
pendent. That is, but for U.S. occupation from 1916-1924, the culmination
of half a century of mis-government and endless revolutions. Soon after the
U.S. Marines departed, Trujillo became president. His early popularity
depended upon his efficient handling of the country's affairs after the dis-
astrous 1930 hurricane demolished the capital city now named Ciudad Tru-
jillo as a tribute to him.
Great social improvements have been effected since then although the
country still remains a strong-arm republic.
Notable Island Celebrations
Every town and village has its annual saint's day. The following occasions
are the most interesting of the lot.
Jan. 21 Hieuey Our Lady of La Altameacla. Pilgrimage; vast crowds.
Prior to Holy Week Ciudad Trujillo Carnival.
Corpus Christi Island-wide religious services.
July 25 Santiago St. James Day. Best fiesta of all.
Sept. 24 Mercies Our Lady of Las Mercedes. Pilgrimage and procession.
Sept. 24 Santo Cerro Religious procession.
Nov. 30 St. Andrew's Day Boca Chica celebrations.
SEEING THE DOMINICAN REPUBLIC
Transport facilities are good throughout most of the country. Motor
bus services link all the main towns and run to regular schedules. However,
this type of travel is definitely student-style. Fares average 1cc-2c per mile.
Frequent jitney (station wagon) service operates on all main routes,
with fares around 4c per mile (no extra charge for luggage). Internal air
service is well developed, reliable and reasonably priced. One way fare from
Ciudad Trujillo to Puerto Plata on the north coast is $7 per person.
In the capital, be sure to check taxi meter readings or you'll be over-
charged. Government fixed rates are 50c a trip or $3 an hour. Therefore
expect to pay $1 per person between the airport or waterfront and your
A few horse and buggy teams still exist with short rides at 30c per
person: half hour trips, 75c each; or $2 by the hour. Automobiles may be
hired with or without chauffeurs. Drive-yourself models are $10 a day, $50
a week. You'll soon get used to the 45 mph speed limit. And keep an eye
open for red and white road markers warning drivers of corrugated road
surfaces at the approach to police check-points all over the island.
Harian's Dominican Republic Vacation Planner
a. Ciudad TrujIllo-three-four hours contrast between Spanish antiquity
As the oldest city in the New World, and the clean, sharp lines of concrete
founded In 1496. Ciudad Trujillo also and steel. The ultra modernness
rates as one of the most modern, springs from the disastrous 1930 hurri-
Everywhere you go there is continual cane. But enough of the sturdy, cen-
turtles old Spanish buildings remain
to make the city a topflight tourist
sight. You may not want to spend
long there, but it's nonetheless a
fine place to linger awhile.
Foremost among tourist. sights:
blush-tinged National Capitol; Santa
Maria le Menor Cathedral, oldest
In the New World (in the vaults see
$5,000,000 worth of Queen Isabella's
jewelry; then look for the hookmarks
where Drake swung his hammock
while his men looted the city; and
Columbus' tomb, where 32 of his bones
are supposed to lie); Columbus Me-
morial Lighthouse, a stupendous mon-
ument covering 2,500 acres; Chapel of
the Rosary, Padre Bellini Street: Mo-
del Market, Mella Street; House of
the Cord, Isabela la Catolica Street,
named for the cord of the St. Fran-
cis Order framing the main doorway
(it was here that Drake weighed his
ransom of gold and jewels); Alcazar
de Colon, the old governor's resi-
dence; the massive drydock and the
Homenaje Tower, an old fort dating
Other worthwhile sights are the
government buildings and free port
shop at the vast International Fair
Grounds; huge musical fountain;
Royal Mint, Arzobispo Street; the
Nat'l Gallery of Fine Arts; the ceiba
tree to which Columbus reputedly
made fast along the Ozama River;
Ramfis Park, overlooking the Carib-
bean; Zoological Gardens (adm. 250);
Molina and Independence Parks; and
the old city walls.
One of the best ways te get ori-
entated is to tour the city atop a
double-decker bus; fares are 6c a
stage. Organized 3-hr. sightsee-
ing tours of the city average
$4.50 per person. Get all the free
postcards you want from the Post
Office. Isabel la Catolica Street. A
charge of 2c each Is made for postage;
elsewhere postal cards cost 10c each.
Tres Ojos de Agua, noted scenic
spot, five miles from the city, with
three underground lakes; Santa Ana
Caves; Santo Domingo Country Club;
Haina Sugar Mills.
Southerland Tours, Hotel Embaja-
dor; J.W. Tatem Tours, Arzobispo
b. Boca Chica Beach-half day...
The nearest first class beach to
Cludad Trujillo. only an hour's drive
away; clean white sands, meal serv-
ice available. Tour cars charge $6.50 per
c. San Cristobal-half day
More Spanish in atmosphere than
Ciudad Trujillo, and revered by Do-
minicanos as the birthplace of ex-
president Trujillo. See El Castillo,
an ornate but seldom used palace
erected for Trujillo by local sub-
scription. The imposing stairways and
gold bathroom fixtures attract every-
one's attention. Also see La Toma
Palls; good bathing. This tour costs
$6.75 per person from the capital.
d. Jarabacoa-four hours
Good mountain resort hotel with
Jimenoa Falls nearby; altitude is
e. Santo Cerro and La Vega--one
Atop Santo Cerro is a shrine dedi-
cated to the Virgin of Las Mercedes,
patroness of the country; the view
is excellent. Half a mile from La
Vega are the ruins of the old town
and fort, destroyed by earthquake in
f. San Pedro de Macorls and La
Tropical lowlands where sugar and
cattle raising are carried out.
g. Santiago, Puerto Plata and
More Spanish in atmosphere than
the capital, Santiago thus represents
a truer glimpse of Dominican life
and customs. Saturday is the best day
to see the market although it operates
Visit San Jose de las Matas or
Baitoa to see placer mining for gold,
carried on in this locality since Con-
Travelers continuing by road to
Haiti will stay overnight, to leave 6
a.m. the following day for Monte
Cristi (see the clock tower), and
Dajabon, the frontier post.
Puerto Plata is a thriving port. The
surrounding countryside offers sever-
al interesting car drives and Long
Beach has splendid bathing.
Sosua is a settlement of European
refugees. The town has a small hotel,
and excellent tree-rimmed beaches.
h. Samana Bay-one day
Sparsely settled country but well
known for its excellent beaches and
1. San Juan--one day
Not particularly interesting high-
way town en route to Haiti on the
southern highway; formerly the
headquarters of Indian settlers.
WHAT TO DO
Year around swimming is popular and there is no shortage of beautiful
beaches. Most large hotels have swimpools, (non-residents pay $1 a day) as
do the social clubs of Ciudad Trujillo and Santiago.
Tennis is played in the cities with golf at the Bella Vista, and Santo
Domingo Country Club. Sailing is good, with a fair selection of boats, avail-
able with or without a crew. In the mountains, horses may be hired almost
Fishing for mackerel, kingfish and snapper is best around Samana Bay,
or from Barahona. Lake Rincon, near Barahona, has salt water fish which
have become acclimatized to living in fresh water. Lake Enriquillo, farther
west, and 135 feet below sea level, offers the thrill of alligator hunting;
thousands of flamingoes frequent the shoreline. Samana Bay has plenty of
alligators, too, around the river mouths particularly. In summer there is ex-
cellent dove shooting.
Spectator sports are not too varied. Horse racing is almost a passion.
The best courses are Pearl of the Antilles, Ciudad Trujillo; Estadio Trujillo,
Santiago; Hippodromo Trujillo, Puerto Plata; Ramfis Park, San Pedro de
Macoris; and the La Vega course. Otherwise there's polo, baseball, or
cockfighting. Gambling is legalized-and decorous. Dancers may want to
master the easy-to-learn national dance, the merengue. A/c movie houses
are all over town. Visit the local TV station for a free guided tour, or to
get yourself a free ticket for the shows. To see the local lottery drawn, arrive
at the National Lottery Building before 8 a.m. on Sundays.
How to get there direct (AIR)
New York Cludad Trujillo (PAA) 6
hrs., five times weekly, $94.60 o.w.,
17 day excursion $114 r.t.
New York Ciudad Trujillo (Varig)
twice weekly, 6 hrs., $94.60 o.w.,
New Orleans C. Trujillo (Delta)
weekly via Havana & Port au Prince,
9 hrs., $100 o.w., excursion $187 r.t.
Miami C. Trujillo (PAA) daily, 4
hrs., $63 o.w., 30-day 1st class ex-
cursion $110 r.t.
Miami C. Trujillo (Dominicana)
weekly, 4 hrs., $42.50 o.w., $85 r.t.
How to get there direct (SEA)
New York C. Trujillo (Roval Neth-
erlands) weekly, 6 days. $140 o.w.
New Orleans C. Trujillo (Alcoa)
weekly. 4 days, $260 o.w.
New Orleans Puerto Plata (Spanish
Line) monthly, 7 days, $90 o.w.
Miami C. Trujillo (Eastern Shipping
Co.) Varying cruise schedule; $175
How to get there island hopping
Port an Prince Ciudad Trujillo
(PAA) (KLM) (Delta), 11/4 hrs.,
about daily, $14 o.w., $25.20 r.t.
Havana-C. Trujillo (Delta), $60 o.w.,
Curacao C. Trujillo (PAA) four
weekly or (KLM) twice weekly via
Aruba, 2a hrs., $52 o.w., $93.60 r.t.
Caracas C. Trujillo (PAA) four
weekly, 11/2 hrs.. $70 o.w., $126 r.t.
C. Trujlllo-San Juan (PAA) (Delta),
daily. 2/4 hrs.. $27 o.w., $48.60 r.t.
(Caribair) daily, 2% hrs., $23 o.w.,
How to get there island hopping
Port-au-Prince C. Trujillo (Saguen-
ay Terminals) fortnightly, 1 day.
C. Trujillo Kingston (Royal Mail)
C. Trujillo La Guaira (Spanish Line)
C. Trujillo La Guaira (Hamburg
Amerika) 2-3 sailings monthly.
C. Trujillo La Guaira (Cla Trasat-
Puerto Plata San Juan (Cla Trasat-
How to get there adventure-style
C. Trujillo San Juan (Dominican
schooners) twice weekly, 36 hrs.,
Puerto Plata Caicos (Cockburn Har-
bor) sloop T.J. Trader or similar,
WHERE TO STAY (Ciudad Trujillo)
****Jaragua, Avenida Independen-
cla. 251 rooms. SEA-VEA, WVEA. One
of the finest hotels; has de-luxe sur-
roundings, excellent rooms with radio
and optional a/c, good though expen-
sive food with seldom-found tiptop
service. Also provided: casino, night
club, ballroom, movies, large swim-
pool, and solarium.
****La Paz, Avenlda Independencia.
154 rooms, all a/c, SEA-VEA, WVEA.
Swimpool provided. Low monthly
****El Embajador. 310 rooms, all
a/c, VEA. Miami-style hotel with
swimpool, casino, golf course, and
many recreations. Watch weekend po-
lo matches from your window.
****Comercial, Calle Conde. 75
rooms, all a/c, MA. All rooms with
private baths and radio.
***Gascue, 112 Bolivar Ave. 23
rooms, M. Very pleasant atmosphere
and nice grounds with tennis and
shuffleboard facilities. Reserve well
in advance. Monthly discount: 25%.
**Presldente, Plaza Independencia.
20 rooms. MA. Adequate accommoda-
tions; showers in each room. Serves
**Colon, 17 E. Millano Tejera. 33
rooms. MA. Passable rooms, all with
private bath; good cuisine.
**Czechoslovakia. 21 Julio Verne. 25
rooms. MA. Adequate if second rate
hostelry; good cuisine, though.
Europa, 19 E. Millano Tejera. 40
rooms, IA. Typically Latin American
with rooms opening off the dining
hall: no hot water. Fairly good service
(English spoken by BWI waiter); has
TV in the lobby.
**Frances, Calle Mercedes. LA.
**America, 17 Calle Colon. 20 rooms,
IA. Overlooks river.
**Santo Domingo, Columbus
Square. 14 rooms, LA. Chinese owned,
convenient to shops; good meals.
"Vidal, Calle Padre Bellini. Quite
good-in its class.
**Puerto Rico. 8 rooms. E.
**Victoria. 28 rms, M. In the busi-
ness section; good meals.
**Moroquito. Serves good meals.
**La Cibaena, Catolica Street. LA.
Fair rooms, Spanish atmosphere;
*Florida, 26 Calle Hostos.
*Dominicana, 108 Calle Conde.
*Sans Soucl, 10 Calle 19 de Marzo.
*Republica, Calle 19 de Marzo.
*San Jose, 16 Calle Duarte.
WHERE TO EAT
****Hotel Jaragua, Avenida George
Washington. Excellent food & ser-
vice; Lunch from $2.50, dinner from
***La Cremita, Avenida George
Washington. Equally good for snacks
or dinner: good music, food & service.
**Lina, Ave. Independencia 4. Small
and medium priced Spanish cuisine
DR; French wines.
**El Dragon, Ave. Independencla
55. Modern a/c DR, open until 1 a.m.
daily; moderate prices.
**Vesuvio, 143 George Washington
Avenue. Dining terrace overlooks th6
**Moroquito, Calle Conde.
**Bonbonera, 36 Calle Conde. Good
meals, open 24 hours.
**La Cafetera, Calle Conde. Short
**Mario's. Modern and a/c, open all
night; Chinese and U.S. dishes.
**Cafe Pion, Calle Isabel la Catoll-
ca. Snacks, cafeteria style.
Jaragua Hotel, Avenida George
Washington. Casino: dancing to two
orchestras in the season.
Voz Dominicana, Calle Miami. Good
floor shows in TV studios, casino,
bar. No minimum or cover charge.
Embassy Club, Hotel El Embajador.
Casino de Guibia, a private club.
WHAT TO BUY
Because Dominican Republican handicrafts are neither as striking, nor
as cheap as native handicrafts in Haiti, Jamaica, or the Virgin Islands, the
following shopping recommendations apply only when you return to the
States direct from Ciudad Trujillo:
Tortoiseshell goods, mahogany or lignum vitae ornaments, embroidery,
seed bracelets & necklets, sisal articles, and leatherware. You'll find the
cheapest straw hats at the Mercado Modelo. All imported goods are expen-
sive unless you shop at free port prices at the International Fair Grounds.
Crude pottery may be found in Santiago. US. cigarettes are 50c a pack.
Books & Newspapers
Liberia Dominlcana, 49 Mercedes
Ledesma, Avenida George Washing-
ton. Smart, de-luxe store run by an
ex-president's daughter. Good jewel-
ry & paintings but no bargains.
Linens & Embroidery
P. Palaclos, 72 Calle Conde.
Photo Shop, 11 Calle Conde.
Curiosity Shop, 20 Calle Isabel la
Gift Shop, 5 Calle Conde.
Handmade Shop, 14 Calle Conde.
Timiriasleff's. Wide selection of
Tourist Store, 19 Calle Conde.
OTHER USEFUL ADDRESSES
Nat'l Tourist Bureau, International
Post Office, Isabel la Catolica St.
All America Cables, 63 Arzobispo
Pan American Airways, Ediflcio Co-
pello, El Conde.
U.S. Embassy, Calle Penson.
Haitian Consul, Calle Peyrado
WHERE TO STAY (Barahona)
***Guarocuya Hotel. 22 rms, M.
State owned tourist hotel with a la
WHERE TO STAY (Boca Chica)
***Hamaca, Boca, Chica Beach. 28
rms, VE yearlong. Smart, well ap-
pointed hotel with nice rooms and
good cuisine. Stands beside beautiful
lagoon beach; has swimpool (change-
For further information write to:
507 Fifth Ave., New York 17, N. Y
room facilities open to non-realdents
for a small charge), water skiing,
pleasure boat, spear fishing and fish-
ing facilities. Arrange to see a cock-
WHERE TO STAY (Constanza)
***La Nueva Sulza. 56 rooms,
MA. Smart and modern, attractive
decor; has pool, movies, arranges lo-
WHERE TO STAY (Ellas Pina)
**Elias Pina. 12 persons. IA.
WHERE TO STAY (Jarabacoa)
***Montana Hotel. 40 rooms. MA.
Pleasant 2-story ranch-style lodge
only 3 hours from the capital; 3,000'
high and offers riding, movies, pool.
Surrounded by pines, cool enough
for blankets the year around.
WHERE TO STAY (San Cristobal)
***San Cristobal. 30 rooms. IA-ZA.
State-owned hotel with three bunga-
lows; large swimpool, weekend danc-
WHERE TO STAY (San Juan de la
**Maguana. 18 rooms. IA. Also
state-owned and new. Has swimpool,
bar, dancing at weekends; good food.
WHERE TO STAY (Santiago)
***Gran Mercedes. 31 rooms, IA.
Quite good, central.
**Matum. 40 rooms, MA. Hilltop
hotel overlooking town; has good
rooms, good cuisine.
***Santiago. 65 rooms. New; a/c.
**Victoria. 28 rooms, L. Adequate;
close to bus station.
WHERE TO STAY (Sosua)
**Garden City. 18 rooms, IA. Has
beautiful beach, miniature golf, and
Dominican Republic Tourist Office,
Currency, U.S. Dollar
Most visitors arriving for the first time in Puerto Rico, the smallest
and most easterly of the Greater Antilles, are struck by its basic Spanish-
ness. For not only are the local customs, architecture and atmosphere of this
youngest U.S. partner decidedly Spanish, but the spoken tongue is, away
from tourist haunts, predominantly Spanish.
There are some cab drivers who speak no more than a few words of
English; siesta (noon to 2 p.m.) may be observed; lottery tickets are on
sale everywhere; and outside tourist resorts and San Juan, rather low living
standards exist for the mass of the populace. But one creditable facet of this
strong Latin tie is the lack of racial tensions. People of Spanish descent, North
Americans, Europeans, and Negroes (who form 12% of the 2,317,000 popu-
lation mingle without visible animosity. In this respect Puerto Rico is
U.S. influences show strongest in business concerns and methods; trans-
port, hotel and tourist industries; in excise taxes which hamper the import
of foreign luxury goods; and, compared to other Caribbean lands, the high
cost of living.
You can't get such favorable summer reductions as elsewhere in the
Caribbean. The largest resort hotels offer 10%-30% discount and often up
to 45% at beachside establishments. The off-season period runs from mid-
May to mid-December with September and November quite slack. Then it is
that many "out island" hotels promote bargain level vacations; customary
single room rates secure a double room while double room rates allow three-
in-a-room occupancy. Living with a Puerto Rican family provides better
lodgings at lower rates than budget Spanish-style hotels charge. You also get
to meet more people and at closer quarters. The usual rates are $4-$10Ed
and $7As upwards per day. Addresses will be furnished by the Dept. of
Tourism upon request.
Elsewhere, in resorts or in San Juan, expect to spend $6 a day upwards
for satisfactory living standards. Hotel service everywhere is good, meals
tasty and plentiful. Rates range from 50c-$1.50 for breakfast; $1.25-$4.50,
lunch; and $2.25 upwards for dinner. Tip as you would in the U.S. Warning:
Several restaurants in San Juan deduct 10% for cashing a travelers check.
Get face value at banks and most hotels.
For a longer visit, it is practical to take your own car; one-way cost is
$200 from U.S. ports. If you stay more than 120 days, a 20% minimum excise
tax is slapped on. A local driving permit is obligatory.
Naturally, no passport or visa is required from U.S. citizens entering
Puerto Rico from the States or the Virgin Islands. But you must carry a
vaccination certificate, less than three years old, when landing from foreign
Customs are tricky. Whereas unlimited purchases, with the exception of
liquor and tobacco, may enter the U.S. from Puerto Rico without Customs
examinations, that is not the case with Virgin Islands purchases. For al-
though you actually pass from one U.S. island to another, the Virgin Islands
are classified customswise as a free port. They are therefore outside U.S.
There is a $500 duty-free allowance, however, provided you get a cer-
tificate of origin to state that your purchases are manufactured in the islands.
And don't forget, you must stay in the Virgin Islands at least 48 hours to
qualify for $200 exemption on foreign made purchases There is a duty-free
concession on goods up to the value of $10.
Discovered by Columbus in 1493, and first colonized by Ponce de Leon
in 1508, who gave the island its present name. Considerable gold mining
took place in early days, but the deposits have been worked out.
True to West Indian style, Puerto Rico has suffered damage from oc-
casional hurricanes, disease, Indian hostility, and constant pirate raids. Eng-
lish, French and Dutch troops have stormed the capital on several occasions.
And offshore privateers were always active.
Negroes were imported to work the plantations but were balanced by a
larger influx of Europeans, mainly Spaniards. This white immigration ac-
counted for Puerto Rico's remaining one of Spain's most loyal colonies in
the New World. The island had a comparatively eventless history with regard
to liberation movements.
In 1898 U.S. troops took the island almost without resistance, whereby
the island became a virtual American colony. Puerto Ricans gained U.S.
citizenship in 1917, Commonwealth status and self-government in 1952. Great
strides have been made in improving living conditions, and extending in-
dustrialization for a more balanced economy. Unemployment remains the
island's prime problem.
Notable Island Celebrations
Jan. 1-5 Las Navidades Men parade the streets singing agulnaldos accom-
panied by home-made instruments.
Jan. 6 Three Kings Day. Celebration to mark the end of Las Navldades.
Children put sprigs of grass beneath their beds, which the Three Kings ex-
change for presents. Goody-goodies of the family get a special kiss from the
"black" King. Result: a black smudge on their face when they look in the mir-
ror the following morning.
February. Carnival (also colorful lagoon boat show, 21st-24th).
Good Friday. Bayamon. Religious procession.
May 19 Armed Forces Day Military parade staged; can also visit army camps.
June-September Fiestas throughout the island. Ask at the Dept. of Tourism
for exact dates.
June 23. San Juan. Large crowds sing and dance around blazing bonfires
on the beach in honor of San Juan Bautista, the patron saint of San Juan.
July 16. Aguadilla, Arroyo, Catano, and Rio Grande. Celebrations for La Vir-
gen del Carmen.
July 25. Fajardo, Guanica, Santa Isabel, and Loize Aldea. Processions in
honor of Santiago Apostol.
July 31. San German Fiesta.
(no fixed date) Mayaguez. Passion Play La Rosa Mistica.
Sept. 8. Hormigueros. Our Lady of Monserrate. Famous pilgrimage where
the devout climb the stone steps to the shrine on their knees.
Week before Christmas. San Juan. Misas de Aguinaldos. Mass, usually held
at the San Francisco Church, held daily at 4:30 a.m. and midnight. The music
is lively with castanets, cymbals, tambourines, and organ playing.
Christmas season. See the naclamentos (Nativity scenes) in private homes.
SEEING PUERTO RICO
In San Juan you can hop a bus (called guagua) and get practically any-
where quickly and cheaply. Terminus points are the Plaza Colon, or near
the Post Office. Intercity fares are 100 a stage, 150 to Rio Piedras, which
is paid at the turnstile upon entry.
Where no turnstile is fitted, pay as you leave. If you board a bus beyond
the halfway mark on a 15# run, you'll receive a small ticket marked "Con-
acsna sin Valor." This entitles you to one ride when surrendered to the
driver. All bus stops are painted yellow and plainly marked "Parada".
Buses for Ponce, Mayaguez and other island towns leave from Recinto
Sur Street, half a block from the P.O. A daily air conditioned bus also
operates between San Juan, Arecibo, Ramey A.F.B., Aguadilla, and May-
aguez on the west coast. Fares from San Juan are: to Arecibo 75c o.w.;
Ramey $1.50; Mayaguez $2 o.w. Other typical lowest cost bus fares from
San Juan are: Ponce $2.50 (via Aibonito $3) (via Mayaguez $3.50);
Publicos (station wagons) are identified by "P" or "PA" plates, and
offer faster service than the buses but are usually overcrowded. As the cus-
tom is to tour the streets to get a full carload before leaving, always choose
one which has passengers waiting to leave, rather than take an empty car. If
you telephone, you will be picked up at your address.
Most publicos for out-island points leave from Stop 15. To reach Fajardo,
jump-off port for the Virgin Islands, Rio Piedras market is the starting point,
a 150 bus ride from the Plaza Colon unless you ride the a/c bus operated
in connection with the hydrofoil ferry to St. Thomas.
Taxis charge 40 for the first mile, and 20# for each additional mile.
Fare between the city and airport is $1.75 although buses run every twenty
minutes, fare 100 one way. Tip cab drivers 10%.
Drive-yourself cars are available at $8 a day, plus 100 a mile, or $29-
$55 a week plus 100 per mile. Gas sells for 260-290 a gallon throughout
Puerto Rico, and the 3,000 miles of paved highways offer a wide variety of
scenic drives for 1-4 days stopover. Frequent air service connects all major
Harian's Puerto Rican Vacation Planner
a. San Juan-half day
b. Night Tour of the City-four
e. Luquillo Beach and El Yunque
Forest -half day
d. North coast beaches-half day
e. Dining out of Town-five hours
f. Country Tour-half day
g. Ponce round trip-one day
h. Highlights of the Island-two
WHAT TO SEE
a. San Juan-half day
An old fortress city of narrow,
steep one-way streets; actually an Is-
land off the island of Puerto Rico.
The ochre buildings, cool tile and
plaster courtyards, stepped streets,
and the balconies, iron grilles and
heavy wooden shutters of Old Spain
make this one of the Caribbean's
most interesting cities.
Condado and Miramar, both part
of the Santurce suburb, are the fash-
ionable sections, and there are found
most of the smart hotels.
Addresses in the San Juan area are
often quoted as Stop 5, Stop 10, etc.,
a reminder of trolleybus days when
stops were numbered 1-40 between
Plaza Colon and Rio Piedras. Each
number indicates the area around the
stops, thus Stop 9 is the address for
the Normandle or Caribe Hilton Ho-
tels, and so on.
San Juan's top sights are more or
less confined to the Old City and may
be seen on foot. First there's El
Morro. the impressive fort overlook-
ing the harbor entrance, and the
lighthouse. Although it is occupied
by the military, free guided tours are
available. However, what with the
frequent "DO NOT . signs, the
lack of old guns lying around, and
the absence of crumbling walls, the
place sadly lacks authentic Carib-
Fort San Cristobal, claims a haunt-
ed sentry box and Fort San Geronimo
The cathedral is not impressive, but
Ponce de Leon's tomb Is worth see-
ing; the rector-usually in his office
behind the main altar-willingly
shows, without charge, many relics
kept under lock and key. Other
sights around the city: silver altar
at the tiny Cristo Chapel; Rare Book
Museum, nearby at No. 255. contain-
ing volumes which Columbus carried
to America; the San Juan Gate;
Capitol; City Hall; Casa Blanca, San
Sebastian St.; and the Governor's
Mansion, Fortaleza St., where free
guided tours every afternoon take
you through part of the house and
surrounding gardens. Highlight is
the chapel in striking modern style.
Guided %-day tours of San Juan in-
corporating these sights cost $4 per
person. A 11/-hour bay cruise from
the La Rada Hotel dock, three times
daily, is $3 each.
Interesting shoestring excursions
might include a visit to Munoz
Rivera Park with its unusual bird
loft and popular beachfront; 16c
ferry ride (from the waterfront by
the Post Office) with boats leaving
every 15 minutes for the 25-minute
ride to good bathing at Catano; or
from Recinto Sur St. board a Corozal
bus (30c) to pass through extensive
sugar plantations to Bayamon and
Toa Alta. As you approach Corozal,
ask the driver to set you down in
time to catch the oncoming Naran-
jito-San Juan bus, fare 35c. On this
leisurely 4-hour circuit you'll view
a rugged mountain skyline, visit
quaint hill towns, jostle with ran-
niered donkeys, see whole pigs roast-
ing on spits, and watch wind-wrink-
led oldsters fondly stroke the legs of
their scrawny fighting cocks. (See
tour f for more details.)
e. El Yunque and Luquillo Beach-
Thirty miles east of San Juan stands
El Yunque, a mountain peak in the
Caribbean National Forest, striking
for its luxurious rain forest. The trip
is worthwhile for the walk in the for-
est alone. But the view from the
watchtower, reached in 30-40 min-
utes walk, is superb. Tourist facilities
in the park include overnight cabins,
a good restaurant and a swimpool.
Luquillo's sandy one-mile beach
with its curving bay and leaning
palms is the prettiest shoreline in
the island. Changerooms are provided
and boats can be hired: restaurant
service is good in Luquillo. Nearby
Las Croabas provides excellent spear-
fishing sport while sloops rent at $20
a day upwards.
Tour operators charge $7.50 a per-
son for this combination trip, in-
cluding lunch. But if you only go to
Luquillo, get your hotel to pack you
lunch and do the trip by public,
$2.50 r.t., plus 30c bus fares to reach
Rio Piedras, the starting point of the
d. North Coast Beaches-half day
A trip to Mar Chiquita, one hour
from San Juan, to visit the caves,
go swimming, and lunch or dine
there, average $7.50 per person by tour
car. Or continue to Manati to see
pineapples canned (Jan May) at
Silver River Co., where free juice Is
e. Dining out of Town-five hours
Leave San Juan around 6 p.m. to
drive into the mountains for dinner
at the El Rancho Hotel at Aguas
Buenas; all inclusive cost is $8 each.
f. Country Tour-half day
Tour the mountain district around
Naranjito; see the modernistic church
at Toa Baja; then return to San Juan
along the coast. Total fare, $7.50 per
In coastal sections, sugar cane
grows house-high from Feb-June.
North-central roads pass through ex-
tensive pineapple fields while tobacco,
black pepper and coffee grow in moun-
tain valleys. See tour a for a budget
g. Ponce, round trip-one day
($2.50 up by public, o.w.)
Go through Caguas (see cigar
factory) and Coamo Springs (spa
is closed) to Ponce, and return
through Salinas, Guayama, and
Cayey, the latter a must-see.
Ponce, second city of the island,
is famous for its unusual Parque de
Bombas, the gaily-painted volunteer
force firehouse. See Guadalupe Cath-
edral, and by horsedrawn carriage, the
port, El Vigia suburb, and "Don Q"
Rum Distillery. A 5c bus fare from
the outdoor market near the plaza
takes you to the uniquely modernis-
tic Maria Santisima Church.
Good local beaches are the Ponce,
Las Cucharas, Las Marias, and Los
Meros. If you stay more than a day or
two, ask about a trip to Isla Caja de
Muertos, ten miles offshore. If island
fever gets you, range the coast as
far as Salinas where 1-acre isles were
recently offered for $1.000 each.
Although unimproved, bathing and
fishing is wonderful, and access is
If traveling by bus to San German
or Mayaguez, book your seat at El
Dia Lines, Isabel Street. Public fare
is $2 per person.
Other Points of Interest
Mayaguez ($2 by bus from San Juan,
or $3 by publico. Centre of Puerto
Rico's needlework industry, and an
important agricultural centre. See the
Columbus Monument: Orchid Nurs-
ery; Nuestra Senora de la Candelaria,
rebuilt after the 1918 earthquake;
Agricultural Experimental Station;
and Las Mesas, above the town, of-
fering fine coastal views.
The best beach is Guanajibo, south
of the town. Several local clubs have
facilities for pool swimming, tennis,
golf, fishing, shooting and dancing.
Mona Island A pirate's, smuggler's,
and rum-runner's paradise, midway
between Puerto Rico and the Domini-
can Republic. Because it is practically
barren, is pitted with hundreds of
caverns where buried treasure reput-
edly lies, the island still wears an air
of mystery. One treasure hunter went
mad there, others have simply dis-
appeared, while local fishermen talk
of screaming women walking on Los
Mujeres beach, and of ghosts stalking
around, head in hand.
As there are no harbors or safe
anchorages, boat landings are not al-
ways possible. However, boats are
available from Lajas and Mayaguez.
Wild pig and goat hunting is good,
and offshore fishing is first rate.
Aguas Buenas Caves. Well known,
beautifully situated caverns over
1,000 feet high. The interior is wet
and slimy, and teems with bats. Guide
service is recommended and torches
Coamo An attractive mountain towa
with a definite Spanish flavor.
Reach it by public from San
Juan for $2.50 pp.
San German, founded by Columbus'
son, is old-fashioned enough to have
a 9 pm curfew for youngsters, and to
have courtships still conducted on
the public square when the two sexes
march in opposite directions in an
old get-acquainted custom See the
Porta Coeli chapel and museum.
Ensenada. Tour the sugar factory,
Cabo Rojo Visit, not the town. but
the cape to the south where brine
salt is still produced by medieval
Aguadilla See the Columbus Monu-
Arecibo Visit the San Felipe Church;
Rico Rum factory (free rum drinks);
Council Cave, with Indian wall draw-
ings; reached by ladder; and Poza
del Obispo, the best beach.
WHAT TO DO
Good year around bathing beaches dot the northern and southwestern
shores of Puerto Rico while pool swimming may be had at the largest hotels,
or at mountain resorts.
Fishing is best from April to August. Mayaguez, Aguadilla, La Parguera,
and Fajardo lie close to the best grounds, and also offer the best facilities
for visitors arriving without equipment. For fishing trips from San Juan,
contact Captain Art Wills, Caribe Anglers, Box 1133, San Juan. Expenses
are $9 a day for small boats, or around $65 daily for parties of six with
bait and tackle included. Rates are only $45-$50 a day for similar facilities
at Lajas near Mayaguez and Las Croabas.
Hunting is limited to wildfowl, and a $10 permit must first be ob-
tained from the Department of Agriculture, Avenida Fernandez Juncos, in
Santurce. The best areas are in the lagoons east of San Juan; Tortuguera La-
goon, near Vega Baja; the Salinas lowlands; and Cartagena Lagoon near
Sailing conditions are almost perfect. Best places to hire boats are the
yacht clubs in San Juan, Las Croabas (near Luquillo), Ponce, and Mayaguez.
Dues at the Club Nautico in San Juan are $10 monthly; good restaurant
service is provided. A sloop with a captain and crew rents for around $35 a
Tennis and horse-riding are available almost everywhere. Rates run $2
an hour upwards with instructors at $1.50 an hour. San Juan has a fine, 9-
hole golf course inside the walls of El Morro, open to the brisk trades blow-
ing in from the Atlantic. Greens fee is $1. Other excellent courses? At the
Berwind Country Club. Or the Dorado Beach Hotel. Some sugar plantations
have private courses, and visitors can get permission to use them for mod-
erate green fees.
Cockfighting contests are held every weekend. The largest galleras (pits)
in San Juan are the Canta Gallo, Loiza Street, Santurce; and Las Palmas,
twenty minutes out on Rte. #2. Admission is usually $1.
Baseball (day and night games), basketball and boxing may be seen
at either the Sixto Escobar Stadium in San Juan, or at the University
grounds in Rio Piedras. Horse racing, with legalized betting, is held thrice
weekly and on major holidays at the El Commandante race track. Trap shoot-
ing is available outside San Juan.
Try your luck in weekly lotteries, and see tickets drawn Sundays at
"Loteria" Bldg., Santurce. Government-controlled gambling occurs in casinos
at leading hotels. Local movies are interesting for their Spanish sub-titles.
Cultural interests include an active Art Centre; annual Casals Festival;
lectures and concerts at the Ateneo; Tapia Theater (seats $1 up), in San
Juan; and visiting grand and light operas.
To be fully informed, get a free copy of Que Pasa in Puerto Rico.
How to get there direct (AIR)
New York- San Juan (Transcaribbe-
an), twice weekly, 5% hrs., $45
o.w., $81 excursion. Live entertain-
ment featured weekends.
New York San Juan (PAA & East-
ern) daily, 5% hrs., $45 o.w. (also
New Orleans-San Juan (Delta) daily,
11 hrs., $82.60 o.w.
Miami San Juan (PAA & Eastern)
daily, 4 hrs., $45.70 o.w., $91.40 r.t.
How to get there direct (SEA)
New York San Juan (Alcoa) weekly,
4 days, $130 o.w.
New York San Juan (Bull) $130 o.w.,
$234 r.t. Takes four days.
New Orleans San Juan (Alcoa)
weekly, $100 o.w.
New Orleans San Juan (Waterman)
weekly, 3% days, $97.50 o.w.
Galveston San Juan (Lykes) fort-
nightly, $110 o.w.
How to get there island hopping
Kingston San Juan (BWIA) 4 a
week, 1% hrs., $67 o.w. $127.30 r.t.
C. Trujillo-San Juan (PAA) (Delta)
daily, 214 hrs., $27 o.w., $48.60 r.t.
(Caribair) 1 hrs, $23 o.w.
Antigua San Juan (BWIA) weekly
via St. Kitts, 4 hrs., $38 o.w., $68.40
(LIAT fare is $36 o.w., $72 r.t.)
Curacao San Juan (PAA) once
weekly, 1% hrs., $73 o.w., $131.40 r.t.
Caracas San Juan (PAA) & (Iberia)
twice weekly, 2% hrs., $97 o.w.,
$180 r.t. (16-day excursion $150).
Port of Spain San Juan (PAA) twice
weekly, 2% hrs., $91 o.w. $158 r.t.
(BWIA) daily via Lesser Antilles, 9
hrs.: 7% hrs via Grenada.
St. Thomas San Juan (Caribair)
daily, 1/ hr., $10 o.w., $18 r.t.
St. Martin San Juan (Air France)
weekly, 1% hrs. $23 o.w., $41.40 r.t.
St. Croix-San Juan (Caribair) %
How to get there Island hopping
Ban Juan C. Trujillo (Surinam Nay.
Co.) Irregular sllngs.
San Juan C. Trujillo (Spanish Line)
San Juan La Guaira (Spanish Line)
every two months.
How to get there adventure-style
Fajardo Vieques (launch or ferry
boat) daily, 1% hrs., $2 o.w.
Fajardo Vieques (sloop) daily, 2-3
hrs., $2 o.w.
Fajardo -Culebra (launch or ferry
boat) twice daily, 2 hrs., $2.50 o.w.
Fajardo St. Thomas (launch Mary
or Emella) twice weekly via Culebra,
61 hrs.. $4.50 o.w.
Schooners regularly leave San Juan
for the Virgin Isles and the Dominican
Republic but passengers cannot be
accommodated due to restrictive U.S.
WHERE TO STAY
****El San Juan, Isla Verde; 369
rooms, all a/c, VE. Ultra modern with
large pool and cabana colony, ocean
bathing, tennis, pitch and putt golf,
and a casino/night club.
****Carlbe Hilton, Calle Rosales. 352
rooms, all air conditioned. SEA-VEA,
WVEA. Overlooks sea, private beach,
within easy reach of town. Has swim-
pool & cabanas, beauty parlor, ca-
sino, bar. good restaurant, night club,
and tennis for guests. Almost exclus-
ively American clientele. All rooms
have private balconies. Nightly danc-
****Condado Beach, Avenida Ash-
ford. Condado. 180 rooms, most a/c,
SEA-VEA, WVEA. Occupies excellent
private beach site cooled by trade
breezes. Still considered the best by
many Americans. Bar service, restau-
rant, casino, night club. swimpool
and tennis provided. Nightly dancing.
****La Concha, Condado. 264 rooms,
VE. Beach resort hotel with wonderful.
panoramic views, striking marine de-
cor, carpeted rooms, pool, tennis, and
**International Airport Hotel. 55
a/o rooms, E. (For use between 6 am
and 3 pm., M.) Has terrace view of the
***Isla Verde. 48 rooms, some a/c,
SM, WVE. Cottage colony grouped
about a swimpool and central DR/
coffee shop with meals from 600.
***Coral Beach Hotel, near airport.
48 bungalows, E (apts. VE). Good re-
sort style accommodations; pool and
***Kasablanca, Ave. Olimpo. 12 a/c
rooms, M-E. Small but lovely guest
house with good cuisine, bar, and
beach privileges. Summer visitors get
free breakfast, extra day's stay, and
free trip to a writers colony in the
mountains. Excellent meals.
***Escambron Beach Club, Pargue
de Munoz Rivera. 56 a/c rooms and
cabanas, MA. Ideal spot for beach
loungers; provides lavish shows. Also
has pedal boats for hire.
***La Rada, Avenida Ashford, Con-
dado. 86 units. SE-WVE. Air con-
ditioned one & two-room housekeep-
ing units with private baths, swim-
pool, sun deck, and private beach.
Fine French cuisine, good music.
***Normandle, Parque de Munoz
Rivera. 160 rooms. E-VE (rooms $2
less facing park). Older, redecorated
hotel overlooking sea & baseball
park. Indoor swimpool, casino, bar,
night club and beach facilities offered.
***Olimpo Court Apartments, Mira-
mar. 52 rooms. M-VE. Has cocktail
lounge, good DR.
***Villa Firenze. Recommended.
***Gallardo Apartments, 1102 Mag-
dalena Avenue, Condado. 55 units. $5-
$11 a day. One & two-room apart-
ments with cooking facilities, maid &
linen service; close to Condado beach-
**Capitol, Santurce. 90 rooms, I-M.
Acceptable commercial hotel with
**Columbus, 40 rooms, M. Favored
by businessmen; E plan only.
**Palace, Calle Tetuan. 72 rooms.
M-E. Old yet good commercial hotel
close to main plaza in Old San Juan.
Exciting 4th floor view. Charge 25c
up for ice.
**Central, 202 San Jose. Older but
**El Flamboyan, Isle Verde. 15
units, S$4Es, W$5Es, $10Ed. New units
with swimpool and private beach fa-
cilities, in residential area.
**Miramar Guest House, 609 Olimpo
St., Santurce. 16 rooms, some a/c, M.
Other good guest houses: La Posada,
Isla Verde Rd. A/c rms, E; La Resi-
dencla. 24 a/c rms, E, furnished with
Spanish antiques; Colonial, 606 Ollm-
po. Some rms a/c, M; Hillcrest, 610
Miramar Ave. 20 rms, M. There are
budget style rooming houses on Calles
La Fortaleza and San Francisco, near
the Calle Cristo intersection.
WHERE TO EAT
Bird's Restaurant, Isla Grande Air-
port. Good Spanish food, moderate
prices; air conditioned.
Cecllia's, Isla Verde. First class
Spanish cuisine & good seafoods;
Chicken Inn, 507 Munox Rivera Av-
enue, Hato Rey. Medium prices.
Ciro's Restaurant, 167 Luna Street.
Good Italian dishes.
Club Esquife, Lutz Avenue, San-
turce. Chicken dinners, bar, dancing.
El Boulevard, Isla Grande. At old
airport entrance; has sidewalk tables.
El Burrito, 205 Cristo Street. Small
restaurant in Old City; first rate Am-
erican cooking, moderate prices.
El Guadalquivir, Loiza Street, Isla
Verde. Good, waterside eating place
for chicken dinners; medium prices,
El Manolete, Ponce de Leon Avenue,
Hato Rey. New place offering Spanish
tare; weekend floor shows.
El Mediterraneo, 254 San Justo.
A/c with bar. Native dishes prepared
to American tastes; moderately priced.
El Morocco Club, 651 Ponce de Leon
Avenue, Miramar. Air conditioned
place offering French cuisine; open
until 4 amn.
El Nllo, Ponce de Leon Avenue,
Santurce. Excellent Spanish & Ameri-
can cooking at medium prices; air
conditioned. Open day and night.
El Patio Espanol, 107 Fortaleza. Ex-
cellent Spanish cuisine with wine,
liqueurs and cocktails served. Reason-
able rates and about the best bet for
El Rincon Criolo. Typical Puerto
Rican DR beside Lago Loiza.
El Sevilla, Ponce de Leon Avenue,
Italian Kitchen, Capitol Hotel, Ponce
de Leon Avenue. Continental cuisine.
La Arboleda, Caguas/Cayez highway.
Lies 80 minutes from San Juan; good
Spanish & American cooking.
La Bodega, Ponce de Leon Avenue,
Santurce. Recommended for local
dishes & seafoods.
La Bombonera, 259 San Francisco
Street. Air conditioned.
La Estrella de Italia, Luna Street.
La Mallorqulna, San Justo Street.
Century-old Spanish restaurant In
Old San Juan; first class cuisine.
Las Gultarras, Bayamon Road. Cosy,
Spanish atmosphere, Spanish dishes
Le Coq Flambe. Very good French
Mario's, Isla Verde Road. A/c, open
until 1 a.m.; serves varied meals, of-
fers bar service.
Mejico in Puerto Rico, 206 Cristo
Street. Mexican food; bar service.
Miller's Ponce de Leon Avenue. Air
conditioned, medium prices; open un-
til 11 p.m.
Palm Beach Coffee Shoppe, San
Justo Street. Smart, air conditioned,
serves Spanish food.
Petite Restaurant. Offers about the
the cheapest meal in city; 80* up.
Back of the Palace Hotel.
Professional Pharmacy, De Diego
Avenue. Air conditioned, table or
counter service, medium prices; close
Rigo's, Santurce. Drive-in place, ai-
ways open; counter or table service.
Swiss Chalet, 1458 Ponce de Leon
Avenue. A/c bar and DR noted for
excellent cont'l cuisine at moderate
prices and an all-night sidewalk cafe
Under the Trees, 1476 Avenue Ash-
ford. Grill & bar, soda fountain.
Verney's, Old San Juan. Charming
place, good cuisine.
Villa Firenze, 655 Avenue Miramar.
First class, varied Italian menu; meals
from $3 each.
Zipperle's, Roosevelt Ave. Serves
Puerto Rican and Continental fare;
El Flamboyan, Isla Verde. Probably
the best; visit the Casino.
Latin Lounge, 604 Ponce de Leon
Piff-Paff-Pouff, Professional Bldg.
Basement club with Latin flavor. You
can enter the building by sliding down
chute direct to bar. The waiters wear
Marln's, 3 San Justo Street. Pleasant,
air conditioned place in Old San Juan.
La Ronde. US. style cocktail
Look for unique island handicrafts. Needlework and embroidery is at-
tractive and sells below U.S. prices. Woven table mats abound in charming
tints and intriguing designs. There are excellent wood carvings, line engrav-
ings and paintings, seed ornaments, a wide range of leather goods, linen
clothing, model oxcarts, the brandy-flavored El Barrilito rum at $2.50 a quart,
Don Q at $1.99, or other brands at $1 a bottle, and items made from woven
grasses. Many tourist shops are operated by Americans who started their
own businesses because they prefer to live and work in the sun. Souvenir
shopping cannot be recommended when St. Thomas' free port advantages
lie within a half-hour flight. But because Puerto Rico is U.S. territory, visitors
to the Virgin Islands must remain there at least 48 hours to qualify for cus-
toms exemption. Most Puerto Rican shops close noon-2 p.m., and few busi-
ness houses remain open on Saturday mornings.
Pan American Book Store, 250 San
Jose Street. Wide selection of English
& Spanish publications.
Porcelaine de France, 650 Ponce de
Leon Avenue, Santurce.
Glusti's Caribbean Shoppe, 202 For-
taleza. Also has perfumes, wraps, hats.
Mal Eno Fabrics, 253 San Jose
Street. Specializes in hand-painted
cotton fabrics, from $2.45.
Martha Sleeper, 101 Fortaleza. In-
teresting articles of all types.
Everglade, 205 Fortaleza.
Notre Dame School, Ponce de Leon
Avenue, Puerta de Tierra. All types
of hand-worked linen items.
Gifts & Souvenirs
Caribbean Crossroads, Isla Grande
Airport. Good selection.
Condel Gift Shop. 100 Fortaleza
Street. Has interesting shellwork, pot-
tery, & paintings.
El Morro Gift Shop, 205 Tanca
Casa Cavanagh, 202 Cristo St.
Downtown; stocks interesting WI.
and Oriental items.
Miramar Gift Shop, 562 Trigo Street,
Santurce. Fascinating goods from
around the globe.
Puerto Rican Pottery, opposite
YMCA. See pottery made, and if
buying, take advantage of a free cab
ride from the Plaza Colon, and get
a free medallion of Puerto Rico's
Stephen's, 105 Fortaleza. Quaint
setting, and worthwhile foraging.
Timi's, 200 Tetuan Street. Par-
ticularly noted for tortoiseshell pieces.
See them made.
Triana, 305 Recinto Sur. Has wide
range of mahogany items. Also look
for sabutan (rush-like) articles, a
Puerto Rican specialty at reasonable
Pagoda, 1515 Ponce de Leon Avenue,
Santurce. Good for Oriental items.
Zola Gift Shop, 565 Ponce de Leon
Jessie's Shop, 202 O'Donnel Street.
Just off Plaza Colon. Stocks attractive
Rico Lingerie, 153 Condado Street,
Ayendez Mahogany Shop, 361 San
Charles M. Gans, Ponce de Leon
Suarez, 205 Fortaleza Street. Inter-
Matlas Photo Shop, 200 Fortaleza
Street. Good D & P service.
Rooney Photo Mart, 1460 Ponce de
Leon Avenue, Santurce.
Almacenes Gonzalez. Centrally lo-
OTHER USEFUL ADDRESSES
Visitors Information Bureau, 100 Te-
tuan Street, Old San Juan.
All America Cables. 2 Tacna Street.
Pan American Airways, 307 Ramon
Caribair, 315 Recinto Sur Street.
Dominican Republic Consulate. San
Rafael Bldg., Ponce de Leon Avenue.
British Consulate. Shell Bldg., Ponce
de Leon Avenue.
Venezuelan Consulate, Cabrer Bldg.,
Ponce de Leon Avenue.
OUT ON THE ISLAND
WHERE TO STAY (Aguadilla)
***Montemar. 40 rooms, E. Has
swimpool, fine view. Eat at the
***New Jungle Club, music weekends.
WHERE TO STAY (Aguas Buenas)
***El Rancho, 24 rooms, E. Popular
Puerto Rican cottage colony, 1,800
feet above the sea, and thirty min-
utes drive from San Juan. Good res-
taurant, bar; movies and horses for
WHERE TO STAY (Areclbo)
**Mir, 30 rooms, I-M. Overlooks
WHERE TO STAY (Barranquitas)
***Barranquitas 42 rooms. VE.
Smart mountain hotel one hour
from San Juan; has nice rooms with
private baths, good cuisine, dancing,
casino, heated pool, and sun terrace,
tennis, golf, and horseriding; heliport.
WHERE TO STAY (Cidra)
**Treasure Island Hotel. 21 cot-
tages, EA. Cool, mountain bun-
galow colony, popular with weekend-
ers. Stands 1,500 feet above San
Juan; good food and service, and
dancing. Boating, horse-riding and
fresh water bathing also available.
WHERE TO STAY
***Dorado, 15m. E. of San Juan.
Ultra modern hotel occupying penin-
sula between two crescent beaches.
Swimpool, improved beach, golf
course, casino, and tennis courts pro-
vided. Only 10 mins. by plane from
San Juan, fare $9 o.w.
WHERE TO STAY (El Yunque)
El Yunque Resort. Excellent for a
weekend among tropical forest scen-
ery. Double cabins are $5 a day.
WHERE TO STAY (Fajardo)
**Hotel Fajardo, G. Morales 102. 18
rooms, L Arranges sailing and riding
activities. (Or stay at El Convento
WHERE TO EAT (Guajataca)
**Guajataca Restaurant. Occupies
lovely setting beside sea, three-hour
car ride from San Juan. Cottage ac-
WHERE TO STAY (La Parguera)
**La Parguera. 68 rooms, all with
private bath. Smart south shore place
with bar, good buffet suppers, and
dancing until dawn; popular with
fishermen Or take $1 night trip by
boat to Phosphorescent Bay, and visit
the zoo/aquarium on Maguey Isld.
**Casa Blanca. Good guest house;
better than average facilities, moder-
ate weekly rates.
WHERE TO EAT (Luquillo)
**Luqulllo Country Place. Known for
its good seafoods; bar service.
**Ocean View. Recommended.
WHERE TO STAY (Mayaguez)
**La Palma, Mendez Vigo. 90
rooms. SI, WM. Quite convenient to
shops, good rooms and food; has bar,
rooftop restaurant and solarium.
WHERE TO EAT
***Coconut Hut, Guanajibo Beach.
Good all-round restaurant with danc-
ing; tourists like it.
WHERE TO STAY (Mona Island)
*Camp Cofresi, Mona Island. Ac-
commodation is plain but in keeping
with the surroundings. Recreations In-
clude dancing, gambling, or sport
WHERE TO STAY (Ponce)
***Texan Motel, Bypass. 10 units,
SM, WE. DR adjoins.
***Melia. 42 rooms. SM-E, WE. Cen-
tral; good meals, air conditioned bar.
**El Castillo. 12 rooms, E.
*New Paradise Hotel. L-I. Clean
comfortable rooms, no private baths.
Public facilities O.K. Despite sign
declaring "Para hombres solos", it's
popular with couples.
WHERE TO EAT
**American Coffee Shop. Good for
WHERE TO STAY (San German)
**El Oasis. 10 rooms. I. Small and
old but has a charming rural at-
mosphere, cool patio and bar.
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In many ways Jamaica is the dream isle of the entire Caribbean. It
enjoys the pleasantly tropic climate of Cuba, yet is lush and picturesque.
Even today, the Arawak's name of Xamayaca-island of woods and springs-
still stands good.
As in neighboring Haiti, its mountains create a wide range of scenic
delights, and harbor no poisonous reptiles or ferocious animals. Too, several
cool "hill stations" lie within easy reach of the capital, Kingston, reached
by good roads. Certainly, Jamaica's native life lacks the contagious vivacity
and color of Haiti, but at least there's no language barrier to prevent ming-
ling or understanding.
The amenities of civilization, like transport and shopping facilities, are
better developed than in any of the Lesser Antilles islands. And the best of
the tourist accommodations equal the best in Cuba, the Dominican Republic,
Puerto Rico or the Virgin Islands. Other accommodations exist for all types
of pocketbooks from those requiring student style lodgings to more com-
fortably supplied purses demanding good, modestly priced boarding houses.
Of course there's also an inescapable Britishness. Currency, speech,
customs, love of pageantry, rule of the road, afternoon tea, cricket matches,
houses with names in place of street numbers, flower gardens, and sufficient
dislike of outdoor advertising to have it banned from every landscape all
stem from a colonial status dating from the 17th century.
Local color is brightest in the "jamalei" placed around your neck, if
you arrive by ship; calypso bands led by dignitaries named Pork Chops,
Lord Fly, or Sugar Belly, gentry who compose contemporaneously to praise
you or your guests at dinner parties; odd-named odd-looking fruits like the
ackee or ortanique; sports as manly as lunging at alligators with spindly
spears; recreations like riding dugout canoes or bamboo rafts, or drifting
across tropical bays propelled by trade winds striking on upraised palm
But Jamaica isn't altogether Paradise. Outside the five main vacationing
areas, accommodations are poor or non-existent; there is no adequate trans-
port system linking the islands, towns and sights for the shoestring visitor;
urban negroes have an annoying yet harmless arrogance unknown in smaller
islands; and lastly, vacation costs are high.
Without a doubt, Jamaica is one of the most expensive West Indian
islands. However, since it enjoys direct air service with Miami, New York
and other U. S. cities (and, apart from Cuba, is the nearest of the islands to
the U. S.), the added expense of staying there is offset by the lower cost
of getting there, which is the biggest expense factor on any short-term West
Indies vacation. Yet one factor assures a continued tourist interest: Jamaica
is the playground of celebrities and that curious crowd of annuitants, titled
Britons. Therefore if you thrill to rub elbows with the fashionable, the north
shore of Jamaica will be worth every hundred dollars it costs.
The larger and most luxurious hotels are scattered along Jamaica's fabu-
lous north shore, the most popular Caribbean resort for most American
sun-worshippers though women far outnumber men. (Girls! If you like to
be outnumbered by men, stay instead at the Myrtle Bank Hotel in Kingston
for part of your stay. There's less competition.) Deluxe establishments
charge from $20-$50 a day per couple at the peak of the winter season,
a period usually lasting Dec. 16th-April 15th. Watch for special intermedi-
ate rates when up to $5 a day reductions are offered upon request. Few
hotels close during summer these days therefore summer reductions are on
the downgrade though 33%-50% are still given without deterioration in
facilities or service. To get the lowest room rates, make reservations many
months in advance.
In Kingston, however, which gets less breeze yet is only a few degrees
warmer, winter prices are nowhere near so high. Although a beach vacation
is not practical, shopping and sightseeing visitors take advantage of the
lower prices offered.
Guest houses in the ** class, with summer rates ranging from $5-$8
As a day, are the best buy where adequate comfort, convenience and good
meals are wanted at minimum prices. Most of these places are found in the
St. Andrew suburbs. Bus service into town is frequent and inexpensive.
Otherwise stay at the "Y" for less than $2.50 a day.
Guest house living helps to cut the cost of vacationing at all resorts.
But family groups should cast around for a suitable waterfront cottage.
Most rent from $40 weekly in summer, or less by the month. Occasional
private homes are available. A two-bedroom, two-bath home with swim-
pool and three servants rents for around $400 a month. Take your own
appliances along. Island voltage is 110-220 volts AC
Jamaica cannot be rated as a gourmet's heaven. But the wonderful
variety of delicious fruits is better than average for other islands. Mangoes,
pineapples, bananas, papaya, tangerines, melons, sweet apples, sapodillas,
raspberries and grapefruit are just a few of the commoner fruits available.
Tip island porters 14c (1/-); waiters 10%/-15%; and bar tenders,
10%. Unless a hotel service charge is added, give chambermaids 14c-28c a
day, or $1 a week.
Proof of citizenship is adequate to visit Jamaica although you are ex-
pected to show evidence of return or onward transportation from the
island, and to fill in an embarkation/disembarkation card. Six months stay
is permitted without further formality. Get the latest ruling on vaccination
cards from your travel agent..
Discovered by Columbus in 1494. He was later shipwrecked on the
north coast, where he spent a year before returning to Spain. Spanish settlers
soon killed off the Arawak Indians, and slaves were imported from Africa.
Since 1655, when a British force took the island, Jamaica has remained
a British possession. For a time it was a stronghold of buccaneers who looted
every corner of the Caribbean. Port Royal, their rip-roaring headquarters,
was destroyed by earthquake in 1692 and Kingston became the new capi-
tal The renowned pirate Henry Morgan, knighted for his exploits, became
governor of the island.
Nelson was in charge of Fort Charles in Port Royal in 1779. And
Captain Bligh, of Bounty fame, introduced the breadfruit tree to Jamaica.
Today, it is so common it seems indigenous to the island. Sugar brought
prosperity to Jamaica but inability to meet world competition saw the great
estates and plantation homes fall into disrepair. Later a group of runaway
slaves known as Maroons staged a small scale rebellion in the wild and rug-
ged Cockpit Country in 1865. To this day, the region enjoys a greater meas-
ure of independence than the rest of the island.
A move by white islanders to make Jamaica an American possession
was foiled by the predominantly negro populace because they feared the
results of U. S. race prejudice at that time. Gradually British rule gained favor
until today Jamaicans are among the stoutest defenders of the throne.
Tourism is now a major industry, although bauxite mining by U. S. and
Canadian concerns and cane growing are also money makers.
Because public transport is inconvenient and too infrequent for tourist
needs, car hire is the best means of seeing the island. With a chauffeur, rates
start around 24 a mile. Drive yourself cars are $7-$12 a day, $45 up weekly.
Gas is 440-520 per Imperial gallon. If you take your own car, full import
duty is charged upon entry, returnable in full if you exit within 90 days.
Car passage from Miami to Kingston is $168. If you drive your own car,
your state license is valid. Otherwise you'll need the local $3 driving license.
And don't forget there's a 40 mph speed limit. For more specific data, con-
tact the Jamaica Automobile Association, 115 Tower Street, Kingston.
For single trips between Kingston and north coast hotels, however,
tour agency cars offer fast connections. Fares are $14 per person from Kings-
ton to Montego Bay; to Ocho Rios $7; between Montego Bay and Ocho
Rios $9; Kingston to Port Antonio $7.50.
Train service links Kingston with Montego Bay, 113 miles. Steam
trains leave Kingston on weekdays, 6 hours; fares are $3 o.w. Diesel
trains run daily, take 4Y2 hours; fare $4 o.w. Steam service to Port Antonio,
75 miles, takes 4/4 hours, fare $2 o.w.; diesel service is available twice
weekly, takes 3/4 hours, and costs 880 o.w. The fare to Williamsfield junc-
tion for Mandeville, is $1.50 o.w. All trains leave from Barry Street, King-
To reach small villages, use the mail vans which meet trains at rural
stops. Or join the morning newspaper delivery cars of the Gleaner.
Bus service from Kingston to Montego Bay is offered daily, fare $2.20
o.w., but is not recommended. But Kingston's own bus service is efficient
and clean. Victoria Park is the terminus for most trips; fares, 7c a stage.
Taxis are plentiful and are distinguished by their "PPV" plates. Rates
are 28c for the first mile and 18c a mile thereafter or $2.10 by the hour.
Summer rates may be lower. The usual fare from Palisadoes Airport into
town is $1 per person; or for a car to yourself, $4. Charter flights are avail-
able to all parts of Jamaica. Several island tours by car from Kingston,
Montego Bay, or Ocho Rios are operated by Martin's Tours of Harbour
Harian's Jamaican Vacation Planner
Because Jamaica is more an island to linger in than a place to give
rigid schedules a workout, only a few basic itineraries are listed. Any num-
ber of interesting variations are possible due to the excellent network of fair
to good surfaced highways covering the entire island. Esso and Texaco road
maps are useful in showing the conditions of the roads for each tour.
a. Kingston-half day (tour car,
Although Kingston, population 350,-
232, is the largest city in the British
West Indies, as a tourist sight it is
disappointing. Certainly, it's different.
jut other than the striking sight of
.he police in their white helmets and
Jackets and red-striped pants, there's
little colorful or exotic about the cap-
ital. In fact, many sections are down-
But its natural setting is marvelous.
Ocean liners sweep into the spacious
harbor (seventh largest in the world),
to tie up one block from the main
street. Immediately behind the city
rie the majestic Blue Mountains. The
main peak, topping 7,400 feet, is only
22 miles from Kingston.
There is an extraordinary lack of
formal sights. Do not miss the various
churches; Institute of Jamaica, on
East Street for its interesting museum
or fine collection of West Indian
books. See the University College of
the West Indies, the Coronation mar-
ketplace; and Victoria Crafts Mar-
ket; and the Hope Botanical
Gardens for the orchid collection,
aviary and aquarium. Admission is
free. A no. 6 "Papine" bus drops you
at the gates. Factories open to visi-
tors are Khus-Khus perfume; Dagger
Rum; and Jamaica Cigars.
b. Port Royal-three hours
Former capital of Jamaica and pi-
rate headquarters which was wrecked
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old city now les under the sea and
ters; the lookout tower; and the
quaintly phrased plaques and tomb-
stones at St. Peter's Church. To get
there, hire d car, around $3 r.t. Or
take the daily War Dept. launch from
Kings Wharf in Kingston. Departures
by eare ath 11 a.m., fareIn 1692. Most.w.; re the
old city now lies under the sea and
from Port Royal at 1:30 p.m. The
Myrtle Bank Hotel also operates a
c. Spanish Town and Bog Walk-
In Spanish Town, the old Spanish
capital, thirteen miles from Kingston,
you will find all the historic charm
lacks. To cut costs, use the half-hourly
cathedral, the oldrt with Nelson's quar-itish
colonies; the lookout tower; and the
morial and its lovely gardens; and tomb-
stones at St. Peter's Church. To get
there,Kings House, the home around the r.t. Or
take the darnors.ly War Dept. launch from
Kings Wharf is a beautiful river canyonrtures
are at 11 a.m., tare 1opic gro.w.; return
to Kingston via Stony Hill, first class
from Port Royal at 1:30 p.m. The
Myrtle Bank Hotel also operates a
c. Spanish Town and Bog Walk-
In Spanish Towncamm the old Spanish
capital, thirteen miles from Kingston,
you will find all the historic charm
and ancient buildings that Kingston
lacks. To cut costs, use the half-hourly
bus service to get there. Visit the old
government buildings; St. Catherine's
cathedral, the oldest In the British
colonies; the attractive Rodney Me-
morial and Its lovely gardens; and
Kings House, the home of the oldtime
Bog Walk is a beautiful river canyon
amid luxuriant tropic growth. Return
to Kingston via Stony Hill, first clams
lookout over the capital.
e. Newcastle and Hardware Gap-
Military encampment astride a ridge
of the Blue Mountain range. The view
along the coast is wonderful.
f. Annotto Bay-one day
Take tour e, then continue to the
north coast returning to Kingston via
Castleton Gardens (botanical gard-
ens), Stony Hill, and Half Way Tree.
g. Port Antonio and Port Morant-
Follow tour f to Buff Bay to follow
the coast eastwards to Port Antonio.
population 11,500, a pretty tropical
port. See the famous view from the
hilltop vantage point and if you can,
time your visit to coincide with the
arrival of the weekly banana boat.
Take the 15' bamboo raft excursion
from Berrydale on the Rio Grande
rapids. The fare, $10 per person, in-
cludes a box lunch from local hotels.
Take a swimsuit with you. Next visit
Blue Lagoon, a famous beauty spot
seven miles east of Port Antonio. Re-
turn to Kingston by South East Point
and Morant Bay. skirting the foothills
of the Blue Mountains.
h. Ocho Rios-one day
Pass through Spanish Town and
Moneague to visit Fern Gulley, a local
scenic spt in a canyon. Ocho Rios
occupies a dream setting beside su-
perb white sand beaches where con-
stant trade winds rustle among the
Return to Kingston by way of
Dunn's River, three miles out, where
you can alternately swim in fresh and
salt water. (Taken from Ocho Rios,
this excursion costs $4 r.t.). Or you
may visit Port Maria to return via
L Mandeville and Montego Bay-
Mandeville is an unpretentious hill
resort, very English with its steepled
church and village green. It enjoys a
year around spring climate and is pop-
ular with retired Britons for its mod-
erate living costs. Recreational facili-
ties: country club; tennis; and golf.
Just outside Lacovia is a two-mile
avenue of bamboos overhanging the
There's little of architectural merit
in Montego Bay, population 24,300,
but see the church, Creek Dome, the
Cage, old fort, and the marketplace.
One mile from town is the much-
talked-of Doctor's Cave Beach, a fash-
ionable bathing resort charging 30S
admission fee. Excursions to an off-
shore coral reef by glass bottom boat
cost $1 per person. Or you might take
time to pick oysters from trees on a
boat trip among the Bogue Islands.
Among the entertainment the numer-
ous local hotels provide are beach
picnics, moonlight parties, dancing,
and calypso singing. Montego Bay has
direct contact with the U.S. by atr.
(Travelers arriving in Kingston with
international air tickets may fly free
to Montego Bay, and leave Jamaica
from there instead.)
Return to Kingston through the
scenic Cornwall hills. Christiana (a
hill resort), and Spanish Town.
J. Montego Bay and Ocho Blos-
Same as first day on tour 1.
Follow the north coast road to Rose
Hall, an old plantation home; Fal-
mouth, a good centre for trips into
the Cockpit Country; Fisherman's
Bay, where the water is so phosphor-
escent that it looks like liquid fire
(best in winter months). Boats can be
hired; Discovery Bay was Columbus'
first landing place in Jamaica: very
good beaches. Then to Ocho Rios,
center of the popular coast vacation
Return to Kingston via Fern Gully,
or Port Maria and Castleton Gardens.
k. Port Antonio and Ocho Rios-
Port Antonio via Port Morant.
Through Port Marta to Ocho Rios.
Return by Fern Gully and St. Ann's
1. Around the Island-six days
Port Maria-Ocho Rios.
Port Maria-Hardware Gap-Kingston.
J. Blue Mountain-one-two days
Actual ascent of this 7,400' peak
takes 10-14 hours though two days
are necessary if you want to be on
top at dawn for the view. With 2-3
days notice, Maurice Scott (Cedar
Valley P.O.) makes arrangements.
With guide and mule ($3pp) you'll
traverse lovely Jungle-covered coun-
try, ford a river, and follow a narrow
trail to finally take in a thrilling
view of Kingston (and even Haiti in
clear weather). Expenses for room
and meals for a night trip are $7pp.
Sunbasking and swimming take first place among Jamaican recreations.
Sea water temperatures remain around 780F-800 the year around. River
bathing and plunging beneath waterfalls add a touch of novelty in many
areas while all large hotels have swimpools. In Kingston, use of the pools
by non-residents costs 30c per person. Morgan's Harbour Beach Club, Pali-
sadoes, offers salt water pool swimming beside a white sand beach.
St. Ann's Bay is notable for cool fresh waters bubbling into pools from
lush jungle-covered slopes directly beside fine salt water bathing from a
sandy shore. Spa bathing? Jamaica has it. The Milk River Baths in Claren-
don are said to be more beneficial than Europe's best. Less crowded are the
Rockfort Baths, Kingston, or the Bath of St. Thomas the Apostle in Bath
Tennis is popular; most courts are grass. Visitors are offered temporary
cub membership and are invited to enter all tournaments. Similar options
apply to golfers at the following clubs:
Constant Spring Golf Club, 18 hole. Lies six miles from Kingston.
Caymanas Country Club, 18 hole. Nine miles from Kingston.
Liguanea Golf Club, 12 hole. Three miles from town.
Manchester Club, Mandeville, 9 hole. Oldest course on the island.
Fairfield Country Club, Montego Bay, 9 hole.
Malvern Golf Club, Santa Cruz Hills, 9 hole.
Upton Country Club, Ocho Rios. You'll ride a donkey cart between
St. Thomas Country Club, Morant Bay.
Westmoreland Country Club, Savanna-la-Mar, 9 hole.
Fishing is both good and varied. Marlin, barracuda, tarpon, sailfish,
kingfish, snapper, pompano, Spanish mackerel, yellowtail, dolphin and jew
fish abound off the north coast. Fresh water catches include snook, mullet,
bass and calipoeva. No license is necessary.
The Portland Fishing Club at Port Antonio makes a good base. On
an average, deep sea fishing trips cost $60 a day for a party of six persons;
everything is provided.
Shooting for pigeon, teal, ducks and snipe is good from August until
November. Alligator shooting trips are arranged by the Blue Water Fishing
Club at Whitehouse, on the southwest coast near Lacovia.
Horse-riding is most popular in the Cockpit Country, and along the
hill tracks in the centre of the island. Cost: $1 an hour; many hotels offer
Summery seas provide ideal yachting conditions although the sport is
mainly confined to small craft based on Kingston, Montego Bay, and Port
Antonio. Boats may be hired with or without crew at reasonable rates. The
Royal Jamaica Yacht Club will supply details (address: Springfield, Kings-
ton). Annual regattas are held at Kingston and Montego Bay. Water skiing
equipment is available; rowboats at Kingston cost $1 an hour.
Spectator sports feature cricket, football and polo. Horse racing is
popular. Pari mutuel betting facilities exist at Caymanas Park.
The Jamaica Military Band plays in the Hope Botanical Gardens on
Sunday and the brilliant uniforms are a gay sight. Band concerts are also
held in the grounds of the Myrtle Bank Hotel.
Jamaica is not noted for its night life. But the north coast hotels pro-
vide plenty of entertainment, and the Myrtle Bank Hotel is the social centre
Excursion by mule or car to Accompong, "capital" of the Cockpit
Country. Get permission for this trip through the Tourist Board. When
the going is too tough for your tiny British car, natives push it over the
final crest, lumbering wooden gates swing wide, and you've arrived. The chief
receives visitors, graciously accepting gifts of cigarettes and rum. After visit-
ing the old sugar mill, and Peace Cave, refreshments are served. Be sure to
have a pocketful of small change to pay for these extra services.
Hike around the eastern spur of the Blue Mountains from Millbank to
Bath, 10 miles. It will be necessary to arrange car transport to, and from
Visit Negril Bay, a superb undeveloped beach on the western tip of the
island. Roads are poor; no accommodation. Or easier of access, Pera Beach,
40 miles east of Kingston.
How to get there direct (AIR) Montego Bay, 2% hrs.: (KLM) dally;
New York Kingston (Avianca) five (PAA) daily; $59 o.w., $111 r.t.
a week, 6% hrs., $106 o.w., $205 r.t. Avensa offers 17-day $92 excursion
New York Kingston (PAA) via MI- rates to Montego Bay.
ami, $106 o.w., 30-day excursion Tampa Kingston (Trans Canada)
$186.10. weekly, 4 hrs., $67 o.w., 30-day ex-
New York Kingston (BOAC) via cursion $107.10.
Montego Bay, Weekly, 6% hra. How to get there direct (SEA)
Miami Kingston twice weekly via Miami Kingston via Nassau and Port