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PS
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Full Citation
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Permanent Link: http://ufdc.ufl.edu/UF00076787/00061
 Material Information
Title: PS
Series Title: <Mar. 1987-> TB
Uniform Title: PS (United States. Dept. of the Army)
Alternate title: Preventive maintenance monthly
Alternate Title: PS, the preventive maintenance monthly
Caption title: PS magazine
Abbreviated Title: PS (Wash. D. C.)
Physical Description: v. : ill. ; 18 cm.
Language: English
Creator: Eisner, Will
United States -- Dept. of the Army
Penny and Sol Davidson Collection
Publisher: Dept. of the Army
Supt. of Docs., U.S. G.P.O., distributor
Place of Publication: Lexington Ky
Washington D.C
Creation Date: 1970
Frequency: monthly
regular
 Subjects
Subjects / Keywords: Military supplies -- Maintenance and repair -- Periodicals   ( lcsh )
Genre: federal government publication   ( marcgt )
periodical   ( marcgt )
serial   ( sobekcm )
 Notes
Summary: The Preventive Maintenance Monthly is an official publication of the Army, providing information for all soldiers assigned to combat and combat duties. The magazine covers issues concerning maintenance, maintenance procedures and supply problems.
Summary: From 1951 until 1971, Will Eisner illustrated and co-wrote PS. Self-descriptive in purpose, featured a mix of illustrated articles, diagrams, and comics.
Additional Physical Form: Vols. for Dec. 1990-1991 distributed to depository libraries in microfiche.
General Note: No. 61-<74> are photocopies (positive) copyrighted by Will Eisner Productions.
General Note: Imprint varies: Lexington, Ky., <Aug. 1978>-19 ; Redstone Arsenal, AL, <Sept. 1997->
General Note: Not distributed to depository libraries in a physical form, Dec. 2000-
General Note: Description based on: Issue 309 (Aug. 1978); title from cover.
General Note: Sol Davidson Collection holds issues 36, 40, 44, 49, 85-6, 89, 108, 112, 142, 148-57, 164-71, 173-4, 177, 182-4, 186-96, 198-209.
 Record Information
Source Institution: University of Florida
Rights Management: All rights reserved by the source institution and holding location.
Resource Identifier: aleph - 001362266
oclc - 04507968
notis - AGM3698
lccn - 61040228
issn - 0475-2953
System ID: UF00076787:00061

Table of Contents
    Front Cover
        Front Cover
    Main
        Page 1
        Page 2-3
        Page 4
        Page 5
        Page 6
        Page 7
        Page 8
        Page 9
        Page 10
        Page 11
        Page 12
        Page 13
        Page 14
        Page 15
        Page 16-17
        Page 18-19
        Page 20-21
        Page 22-23
        Page 24
        Page 25
        Page 26
        Page 27
        Page 28
        Page 29
        Page 30
        Page 31
        Page 32-33
        Page 34
        Page 35
        Page 36
        Page 37
        Page 38-39
        Page 40
        Page 41
        Page 42
        Page 43
        Page 44
        Page 45
        Page 46-47
        Page 48-49
        Page 50
        Page 51
        Page 52
        Page 53
        Page 54-55
        Page 56
        Page 57
        Page 58-59
        Page 60
        Page 61
        Page 62
        Page 63
        Page 64
        Page 65
    Back Cover
        Page 66
    Letter
        Page 67
Full Text










1970 Series
February


HEY, TIGER!.
THEM AIN'T INCOMING
ROUNDS... YOU BETTER
CHECK THE PM ON YOUR
SIGHTUNIT.








The First Time


S'"Why is it that we

do the

But we always have


- You've heard that one. And,
maybe you've seen it happen in real
life. Your good sense tells you
that it wastes your time, your
outfit's supplies and Uncle's money
to half-do a job or do it wrong.
So, when you do a maintenance job,
do it right. If it's something
as simple as checking the air in your
tires, or the coolant in the
radiator, or cleaning and lubing your
rifle, make sure you do it
bright. Or, if it's a big job like
I' doing a scheduled maintenance


."Si IF-*''


5;,


never have time to,

Sjob right,

time to do it over?"


service on your SP artillery.
do it right. If maintenance
is done wrong, it could lead
to damaged or destroyed
equipment. It could even mean
the enemy gets you instead
of you him. Wrong maintenance
is serious. Some people have a
name for doing the job right -
Zero Defects. It's just another
way of saying: Do your
maintenance job right -
the first time.


&VOW
r7Vr"~
FEW

t..;J W l

10 Ali,~
4 ~ 01 ~"N'


HIC PREVENT IW INTUIC MONTHLY
Issue No. 207 170 Serlil
IN THIS ISSUE


FIREPOWER 2-21
811MM.4 2.n 45CalPistol 17
Mortar 2-15 Hank Notes 18.19.
M]4 Rlle 18.17 20.21



GROUND MOBILITY 22-27
PCVvalIe 22-25 Fir, Etlinlrhe 26
Fuel Sylem 25 Mullltuel Enlnie 27



AIR MOBILITY 37-45
U8 317 HueyUH-IDIH 43
Hjeyabra 37 U A 44
HueUy iH- 31-43.45 C-47C 44
T-53 Engine 4



COMMUNICATIONS 46-53
OH 13 Avionics Gear 46-51 CVC Helmet 52
AN/ARC-5 52 ANIVRC 12 S3
Dry Batteries 53


COMBAT SUPPORT/EQUIPMENT 1. -
Compreasor Care S843 Immersion Healer H I
PS Magapne. MIlAI Mask 64
IndeNes 63 New PublIcations 28
Supply B, 7, I, 8. 11 .16.18. I i ,
20, 21.26, 27. 37,41. 44
Use of fieds for printing ol tlls puihlle-
lina h n a n pred by Hleadquaers.
Departmbut f the1 Army, 26 February 19.
DISTRIBUTION: In accordance with re-
quireints submitted m DA Form 124.


0/i MA/s
{^ ^ KlojI -


DO IT RIGHT...









I,1


-fb

HERE'S A
GUIIDE TO
BEA1 THE
I14SPECTOR -


~' j DJ,


Look your mor-
tars over with a
hairy eyeball before
the inspectors come
around. They can't
gig you for a fault
if you find it and fix
it before they see it.
The name of the
game is the same
whether your stove-
pipe is an 81-MM
or a 4-Deuce.
Make sure every-
thing is Present and
Secure like the
handy-dandy PS
sign -- re-
minds you. To be
present and secure
-F-an item has
to be complete and
in operating condi.
tion ~ without being
loose, bent, broken.
cracked or worn our
beyond your ability
to fix it.
The pencil and
clipboard bo)s
won't give you any
points for spit and
polish so saec that


for your shoes. Painting over rust makes
'em downright hostile and painting (in-
stead of oiling) surfaces where metal
contacts metal, is a sure gig.

81. MM MCRTA
There's a lot more to the 81-MM
mortar than meets the eye. F'rin-
stance, you could ha\e an% one of
oser 2 dozen different kinds de-
pending on the combination of
baseplate, barrel and mount.


BARRELS








I MOUN>I A


SA

^^M~


~,4~'5.


LIi~4*:


IWA* !1






Here's how the inspectors check out an 81-MM mortar baseplate:


M23 BASEPLATE -Same as M23A1
baseplate except no latches.
M23A1BASEPLATE-AII 3 latches P
Carrying handles P (Check both top
and bottom of baseplate before you
decide your handles are OK.) Socket not
HANDLE burred or rough. (Smooth it if needed.)
Inner ring socket cap turns freely in
complete circle without binding. If it
sticks, loosen holding screws and get
SOCKET LATCH out the paint, dirt, or whatever is mak-
ing it stick.

Get a new baseplate if inner and outer rings are bent so they don't fit
together easily.
FEET P (This means Present and Secure, not missing, broken, cracked or
bent. If you can't get 'em in shape with welding and/or hammering, turn your
baseplate in to your support.) No rust or bare spots. (Complete painting of base-
plate is permitted.)

M3 BASEPLATE-Check carefully
OP for cracks in metal and have 'em
welded. This aluminum baseplate is
light and handy but bends easily, so dig
it in before firing if you are on rocks or
frozen ground;
With pliers or other tool remove re-
taining ring and take out the 3 non-
metallic rings and disk. Make this oper-
ation as clean as possible. Wipe all dust,
IK RETAINING RING dirt and gunk from around the socket
before you start and wipe all the parts
clean before you reassemble them.
That's right! The word is "wipe."
SYou never clean the disk and rings in
RINGS any kind of solvent including diesel
fuel, gasoline, kerosene, bore cleaner.or
WIPE 'E CLEAN whatever. That's because the rings and
SOCKET disk are built up in layers (laminated)
and solvents make the layers fall apart.






AFTER fOU CLEAl If these parts are already in bad
A LIGHPT CON AT shape, order a new set as FSN 1015-
SL COA- 247-7177. This is important because
with worn-out rings and disk your M3
baseplate is more likely to bend or
break. Put a light coat of clean GAA
grease inside the baseplate socket and
on the rings, disk and ball socket when

ful not to get any dust or dirt on the
parts. Make sure the ball socket and
-retaining ring are firmly seated and the
socket moves freely.


81-MM MORTAR MOUNTS





BARRB.S


Not dented or out of round. Inside
of barrel clean, lightly lubed, no puddle
of oil, dirt or powder fouling in bot-
tom of barrel.
Pits %-in long or wide or as much as
.010-in deep are OK but if bigger you
need a new barrel. Ask support to check. IF AN M68 IthlERT
They can now requisition the M29E1 TRAINING PROJECTILE
barrel under FSN 1015-722-5535 (8766- 5LIPES SMOOTHiy
507). THROUGH THE. BARREL
507).WITHOUT HANGING U
Barrel is unserviceable if the end of YouR BARREL.
tube shows too much spot wear, peen- s ROUND.
ing or cracks. (This causes poor obtura-
tion -gas escapes out the end of the
tube before the round leaves.) I


K\


S FIRING PIN P (Clean by unscrewing
from base plug with socket head screw
key FSN 5120-240-5274 (41-W-2455).
_C lean vent with small arms cleaning
brush FSN 1005-610-8828 (M6-6108828).


y





BASIC ISSUE ITEMS
CHECK OUR TM'S
Basic issue items for the 81-MM mortar are listed FOR MORTAR
in Appendix III to Ch 4 (Jun 67) to TM 9-3064 (Aug 1 BIL'S.
57). Basic issue items for the 4.2 mortar are listed on
pages B-4 to B-27 in TM 9-1015-215-12 (Jul 66).

FUSE SETTERS Whatever kind you
have (M14, M18, M25, M27, M34, M35)
make sure it's serviceable. ... '


AIMING POST M1A2 -All 4 pieces %
with red and white paint in good shape.
It's not a gig if pieces are pounded so
much on the ends you couldn't fit 'em
together. Canvas cover M401 not ripped,
dirty or mildewed Snaps F-.e


M68 INERT ROUND (For 81-MM mor- GUN MUZZLE COVER- PF (There are
tar) Paint not flaked, fins not bent. several kinds, both leather and canvas.)


81-MM 4.2.MM


FM 23-90 TM 9-101-215-12
M6 CLEANING BRUSH -Serviceable.
FSN 1005-610-8828 for a new one.
0 -- -- mom


M3 SHOULDER PAD -Straps
buckles. MP canvas not dirty.


I


and

a',





a-
D~2~ I





CASES FOR LIGHTS AND SIGHTS
Check out according to the particular sight and other equipment you have.
(M166 case for M53 sightunit or M78 case for M34 sightunit.) Hinges, fasteners
and handles P ?


INSTRUMENT LIGHTS -All parts M,
wires not exposed, lamp bracket not
burred, fits band assembly shoe. Rheo-
stat knob works. Metal inside case not
corroded.


(Note: Never leave batteries in instrument
lights or aiming post lights when you store
'em. Forgetting to take out the batteries is the
biggest cause of battery case corrosion--
and a sure gig from the inspectors.)


M105 CARRYING CASE -Metal snap
fasteners M, no holes or rips in case,
stitching not torn. (To keep Irom bend-
ing the board, handle the case gentle-
like and don't store anything on top of
it.) TM 9-1220-204-15 (Jul 62) w/Ch 2
(Nov 63) present in pouch of case.


M16 PLOTTING BOARD-All parts
(base grid, azimuth scale, and scale arm)
P clean and dry. Pivot point lightly
tubed. (Clean plastic parts of board with
optical lens cleaning compound FSN
7920-132-7772 for 1 qt-never with
gasoline, lighter fluid, dry cleaning sol.
vent, alcohol, acetone, etc.) Art gum
eraser or a damp cloth can be used. Use
only a sharp, soft (#1 or #2) pencil for
plotting. Never use grease pencil, ball
point pen, map pins or anything sharp.
BASE SCALE
CrInflR. ARM


El






M53 SIGHTUNIT


ELBOW TELESCOPE M109-Eyeshield
P%, rubber not torn. (Support can get
you a new one FSN 1240-892-5517.)
Three-position index lines not painted
over. Optical glass not dirty, smudged or
fogged. Telescope moves freely through
180 degrees of arc. Lamp bracket holder
complete with dust cover, screws and
chain. Threads on both dust cover and
lamp bracket holder not burred or
stripped. Prism screw not loose or
painted over. (Never remove this screw.)



TELESCOPE MOUNT M128-(Upper sec-
tion) Telescope locking clamp com-
plete with retaining washers on both
ends of both pins. (The locking clamp is
more likely than anything else on the
whole M53 sightunit to give you trouble.
Check it often because the retaining
washers tend to get lost; this lets the
pins drop out.) Both front and rear parts
of open sight P. Micrometer angle of
sight knob turns freely and elevates or
depresses the telescope smoothly.


/THE LIGHT PROJECTOR }
COVER IS A PROTECTIVE
FEATURE AND SHOULD
BE IN PLACE EVEN THOUGH
THE LIGHT PROJECTOR
Is NOT USED WrH
\EITHER MORTAR.


RUBBER EESHIELD


amp SIGHT I

L LOKING KNOB


I(MRE


(Note: Neither coarse nor micrometer
angle of sight scales are used with the
4.2 or 81-MM mortars.) Light projector
not corroded in place, cover, chain and
screws P The lamp is not used with
the mortars so it won't matter if it's
missing or burned out Run angle of
sight knob as far as it will go in either
direction and look for rust in the area
uncovered.






TELESCOPE MOUNT
l section) Number
S flection scales: 1.
(red); 2. Coarse de
.^' 3. Micrometer def
crometer deflectio
scales move freely
pressed down but s
pressure is relea
black micrometer
and smoothly as
moved. Deflection I
stays in place whei
ing or stowed pos
cross-level vials n
FI vial cover r De
holds. Don't try ti
Syou could if you f
cause that would
inafrnli rorer


TELESCOPE MOUNT M128-(Lower
section) Locking latch P Dovetail
not nicked or burred. Data plates P,
not painted over. Numbers clear on
coarse and micrometer elevation scales.
Check out the elevation knob, crank and COARSE
locking knob like you already checked ELEVATION
the same parts on the deflection. SCALE
YAH..ALL
NICKED 'N
BLIRREDI
DON'T FEEL
4 LONESOME, STRANGER .
AND IN MY CASE
LOOK AT IT MEANS A LOT
HAT DOVE OF FOOT WORK'


LATCH LEVER
Kr
'


NT M128-(Center
s clear on all 4 de-
SCoarse deflection
flection slip (black).
election (red); 4. Mi-
n slip (black). Slip
without sticking when
tay in position when
sed. Both red and
scales turn equally
deflection knob is
hand crank P and
n put in either work-
ition. Elevation and
ot broken, cracked,
flection locking knob
o override it (like
forget it's on) be-
likely strip some

SMICROMETER ELEVATION
SCALE

ELEVATION
KNOB
ELEVATION
-LOCKING
KNOB






BRACKET
LATCH




SCALE


M34, M34A1, M34A2, M34A2C SIGHT UNITS
TELESCOPE MOUNT M79--Elevation
level FP, cover not frozen in place. Ele-
vation scale and index readable. Eleva-
tion micrometer scale and index read- LE
able. Elevation knob turns freely and IN
moves elevation scale. Mount bracket
latch, spring and pin Ip). Dovetail not
nicked or burred.













TELESCOPE ADAPTER IM9 or M9All
- Screw locks telescope elbow in any
position, screw wings not bent or
broken. Open sight M.Azimuth scale
and index arrow readable. Deflection
micrometer scale and index readable,
scale turns with knob or (for adlust-
ment) when center of knob is pressed in.
Name plate not painted over. Cross
level 1, cover not frozen in place.


AZIMUTH
SCALE


ELBOW TELESCOPE (M62, M62A1C or
M62A1D)-Eyeshield M, rubber not
torn. (If you need a new one ask your
support to get it for you with FSN 1240-
346-7676.) Index lines for left, right, and
straight up position not painted over.
Optical glass not dirty, smudged or
fogged. Telescope moves freely through
180 degrees of arc. Band assembly shoe
not nicked or burred.


M24At BASEPLATE


TOP SIDE- Paint without rust or bare
spots. (Painting of baseplate permitted.)
Carrying handles 1R Bearing surface .
that makes contact with rotator clean,
not painted, rusted, scratched or burred.
Covered with light coat of GAA. (The LO
says GAA-not oil.) Eight pressure-relief
holes open, not clogged with hardened
mud. Well clean, without mud or crud.
Circular groove for rotator lock slide
not bent, filled with mud or pebbles.


\
WING
SCREW


- DLECTION
SCALE


PRESSURE
RELIEF
HOLES
Y AdAA


-- P--~------T3







BOTTOM SIDE-All ribs RP No broken SUPPORT
or loose welds on 6 baseplate ribs, 6
support ribs and 6 lateral ribs. Rope end PIPE
knots secure and burned. Pipe plug 1p PLUG
(Unscrew it in an emergency to break
the vacuum between the baseplate and
the rotator but then screw it back in BASEPLATE LATERAL
again.) RIB RIBS

ROTATOR ASSEMBLY


DIFFERENT MODELS-A cast magne-
sium model (P/N 8401603) and a steel
model (P/N 7144246). With the steel
model you often have to move the
bridge about 45 degrees left or right
before it seats completely. Handles of
magnesium model will bend if too much
force's used in loosening stuck rotator
with tanker's bar. Check these points on
the model you have....


STEEL






BACK SURFACE -All 9 set-screws holding the bridge bearing plate fP Four set-screws
on rotator projection Pl. Two set-screws above each rotator slide lock P%. Grooves
clean, not clogged with grease or dirt. Entire bearing surface clean, lightly lubed. Rotator
slide locks move into extended position when weight is applied to expansion pin. (To check
this make a Badalato inspection: 1. With bridge and rotator both upside down, join bridge
and rotator. Both rotator slide locks will snap into the extended position if equipment is
working right. 2. Unhook rotator from bridge. If equipment is working right the rotator slide
locks will snap back into the slide housing. Unless your rotator slide locks pass both parts
of the Badalato* inspection, turn your rotator in to support.)


SLIDE, T- GROOVES


BRIDGE ASSEMBLY
You never cross a bridge before you come to it, not even the bridge on your
4.2 mortar. You should check it, tho, and here's how...


BOTH SIDES All surfaces except bear-
ing areas painted without blisters, rust
or bare spots. Body not cracked or bent.


*Devised by Sgt Badalato
3


TOP SIDE Spade handles not mashed,
broken. Trunnion bearings and trunnion
socket smooth, lightly lubed, not burred
or painted. Washer, nut, and jam screw
P Body carrying handle complete
with carrying sleeve, cross brace P&.
Recoil springs OK.


BOTTOM SIDE All segments of spade
not bent, broken, or with loose welds.
Body turns smoothly through entire
circle at swivel joint.



























BARREL ASSEMBLY
OUTSIDE- Trunnion pin not broken or cracked. (Check
carefully because a broken trunnion pin could let the
barrel jump out of the bridge socket during firing which
would be very dangerous.) Trunnion pin and rounded
bottom of tube cap not painted, lightly lubed, smooth,
not burred. Tube cap tight, no gas escapes during fir-
ing. (Check edges of cap and tube. There should be no
sign of powder burns.) Shock absorber springs OK? (To
test, crank elevation up to upper limit of low elevation
range. Now pull barrel down as far as you can and let
go of it. The barrel should snap back into battery
smoothly and instantly. If it takes too long get your
support to put on a new pair of shocks. Barrel locking
pin 6. Knurled knob moves latch smoothly from
latched to unlatched position and latch stays where it
is put.


STANDARD ASSEMBLY TRAVERSING
Trunnions not bent, painted or burred, lightly lubed.
All 3 ears on elevating cam mechanism M%. Elevating
cam not frozen, locks in both high and low elevation
automatically. (If it won't lock automatically, you can
pass inspection if you can lock it manually. If it won't
even lock manually, call your support.) Elevating screw
sleeve not bent, rusted, painted or burred, lightly lubed, TRAVERSING
raises and lowers evenly without binding or skipping. SLIDE
All parts of crank and handle P Recoil and counter- HOUSING
recoil springs not worn out (Push standard straight
down as far as it will go and then release. If springs are ELEVATING
OK the standard will snap back into its previous posi- ELEVATING (RANK
tion.) Traversing mechanism wheel, crank and crank SCRE
handle 1R Crank will stay securely where it is put in SCEW EEVATING
either the operating or stowed position. Not more than SLE CAM
-turn free play in traversing mechanism wheel. Trav- MECHANISM
erse operates smoothly without binding or skipping
through entire range of travel. Traversing slide hous-
ing does not turn in a circular motion when it is moved
from side to side. Slide housing not painted, bent or
burred, lightly lubed. Traversing slide body lightly
lubed, not bent, painted or burred. TRUNNIONS


CROSS LEVEL
KNOB







All non-bearing surfaces of mortar evenly painted
without rust spots, scratches or blisters. Bearing sur-
faces not painted, smooth, rust free and lightly lubed.
Sight mount handle (cross-level knob) not frozen,
turns freely and moves sight socket smoothly and
evenly without binding or skipping. Dovetail not nicked
or burred, lightly oiled. Brass worm gear assembly not
nicked or painted over.
INSIDE-Not dented or out-of-round. Clean and lightly
lubed without powder fouling or oil puddled in the
bottom of barrel. Pits 3z-in long or wide or as much as
.010-in deep are OK but you need a new barrel if they're
bigger than that. If there's any doubt, ask your support
to look it over. Your support gets 4.2 barrels under
FSN 1015-857-2822.
STRAP 'EM DOWN FIRST





That old strap style pipe wrench,
FSN 5120-262-8491, is the best com-
panion your M18 fuze wrench, FSN
4933-723-1161, ever had for help in
changing fuzes on 81-MM rounds. But
some anxious type mortarmen often
forget to follow the A-B-C steps in Fig
42, Ch 4 (Jun 67) to TM 9-3064 (Aug
FIRST -CINCH UP 57).
TIGHT ON THE ROUND For example, if you want to swap the
SM532 variable time (proximity) fuze
for the point detonating super quick/
delay fuze on some of your M374 high
explosive rounds-your first move is
to cinch up tight on the round itself
with this pipe wrench. That way you'll
be less tempted to violate the safety
rule that says don't hammer on the fuze
...THEN LOOSEN wrench to loosen the fuze from the
WITH THE round.
FUZE WRENCH The pipe wrench is part of your
Mortar's basic issue.











CHIPPED 9,
TIP?


No self-respecting armorer would care to have a scorched-faced powder-
burned M14 rifleman accuse him of not inspecting his weapon's firing pin thor-
oughly.
Could happen, though, if an unnoticed sharp point on the firing pin's tip pene-
trated the primer of a round being fired. The resulting blowback through the rear
of the cartridge case sure would make for one hot-under-the-helmet rifleman.


jI r SHARP EDGE MAY
^ PENETRATE PRIMER
That's why it's important to follow the organizational maintenance instruc-
tions in Table 3-5 of TM 9-1005-223-20 (May 67).
But the only positive way to spot all those tiny pits, chips or burrs is through
a magnifying glass .. such as the FSN 6650-356-8405 listed on page 72 of SC
6645/50-IL (Jun 69).

DON'T HEEL IT... THUM B IT
Banging the sight sharply with the FM 23-8 shows you how on pages 38
heel of your hand is neither a kind nor and 39-and explains how in para 27.
a right way to check the tension on the
M14's rear sight. PUSH IT
An easy, steady thumb pressure will FIRMLY
do it... after you click the sight all the THUMB
way out, then lower it back two clicks.
If the sight gives, turn the windage
knob nut clockwise with the screw-
driver blade of your combination tool. TIGHTE
Just one click at a time -until the sight WINDA
holds against your thumb's pressure. T
C OMBO TI


OVERHANGS
ARE NO-GO

Dear Half-Mast,
Am I right in suspecting that the set
screw in the M14 rifle's front sight is for
windage correction?
CW3 J.E.D.




WRENCH FOR
ADJUSTING FRONT SIGHT
Dear Mr. J.E.D.,
That's right, Sir! And there's a
wrench (Key, socket head screw) in the
Small Arms Repairman's Tool Kit for
the unit armorer to use in adjusting the
sight right or left.
Might mention, though, that any
sight correction requiring the sight to
overhang the sight base means the
weapon needs to visit DS for treatment.

Aldltfd8t


AHM FINE .!
ARMORERS!...

RECHECK

THOSE .45

SPRINGS


You don't have to split fractions any
more to measure short recoil springs on
your .45-cal pistols. Anywhere between
6 and 618" is "go"... according


to Ch 1 (Jun 69), TM-9-1005-211-12
(Sep68).
The same change points out that a
missing detent on the recoil spring plug
does not make the weapon unservice-
able.
In general, consider the weapon serv-
iceable as long as the spring's not too
short and there are no weak spots in any
of the coils. Check the TM change your-
self for the derails.






''



STRETCH THE GOOD LIFE

The good life of your Hawk's
AN/MPQ-34 acquisition radar's
modular oscillator can go on and
on if you apply a little know-how
needed for the long haul. To get
the most out of that oscillator a
smart cookie'll play it cool on these
points:

I. Magnerron Starts: Limit its current starts toan absolute minimum. The use-
ful life of the maggie depends on the number of times it's shocked (fired) into oscil-
lation- the fe er starts the better. To extend its life make it a habit to remove
the magnetron filament and high-voltage fuses when you place the radar in false
radiate, or % hen it's to be left in a standby condition longer than five minutes.

2 Frequency Drift- It's normal for the STOPS /%" RETURN
magnetron to drift down with age. FROM FLAT? CAM RIDER
The knock is to have the oscillator TIME FOR TO CENTER
coarse tuned before its capability to COARSE OF ROUND
lock is lost and the maggie's made TUNING.
useless. You con spot this permanent
change in frequency by eyeballing
the lock position of the cam rider. If
it travels counterclockwise and stops
within three-eights of an inch from
Ihe cam flat, it's lime for your sup.
port to coarse tune it. The lock posi- CAVITY
tion should be returned to the cenler
of the round portion of the tam.

3. Handling: Shock, vibration and exposure to metallic objects and magnetic
areas reduce the field strength of the magnetron's magnets. One adjustment of the
ca irn with a steel tool will deguass the magnets enough to cause the pushing
figure to double or result in moding. So-o-o-o, when doing an)y ork % ith or
around the modulator oscillator never use steel tools, necer place the unit on or
near steel objects like a tork bench, cabinet, wall, etc., and never let it get any
closer than six inches to other magnetic areas or materials. Al ays store and ship
the unit in its container (Drum. metal. FSN 8140-88"-9002).


J,. _


90 CONNECTOR

SHORT YOUR PINS
That new 90-degree igniter connector (FSN 5935-854-
3079) on the rocket motor initiator of your Hak missile just
may have a small-but critical-wire missing that can
guarantee a costly misfire.
No sweat if your continuir) check with the AN/PSM-6
multimeter shows a resistance reading. That means sour con- INITIATOR
sector's installed right in wiring harness FSN 1420-767-4137.
But a zero reading means the shorting wire is missing be-
rve en pins A and B on the back side of the connector. This
nire's job is to complete the circuit with the initiator when
pins B and C are used -since the cable leads are only con-
nected to pins A and C. If that jumper w ire's missing. hate
your maintenance support check Fig '0 of Ch 3 (9 Jan 68) to
TM 9-1410-500-34/2 (23 Oct 64>.
Depending on the indexing slot you select, either con-
nector pins A and C or B and C ... .ill be lined up
Swith the 2 initiator pins. But the initiator won't receive
an juice through pin B unless it's jumped to pin A. So
the rocket motor can't fire and your countdovwn sequence
S USE JUMPER ends right now.
WIRE
CHOOSE THE RIGHT SLOT
Adding the second indexing slot nith the new 90-
degree connector lets you select the better angle for plug-
ging into the initiator. This eliminates the problems with
( the old connector, a here the cable interfered with the
initiator door. Repeated door closings bent the cable at
right angles until it broke the cable and spread the initi-
ator pins by forcing the connector to lean.


J ,OLDV
NEW,1:
OtNEW CONNECTOR
N0NNE(TOR
Besides leading the cable in at a right angle -which
clears the initiator door -the new connector has deeper
sockets for better metal to metal contact.




1* -'.--- N


YOUR OIL MAY BE SEEPING


You'd never suspect it, but that F-50
oil sitting inside your Hawk's AN/
MSW-9 PCP antenna pedestal may be
seeping past the seal for your antenna's
AC motor.
It's not the seal's fault... it's the F-50
lubricant called for in the lubrication
chart on page 4-2, Fig 4-1, in TM 9-
1430-516-12 (Aug 68). The F-50's low
viscosity makes it thin enough to seep
past the seal.
Until an improved antenna pedestal
design corrects the problem, you might
want to drain and flush the F-50-and
replace it with Lubricating Oil, Gear,
Petroleum Base, MIL-L-6086-B, Grade
M. FSN 9150-223-4130 will supply you
a 1-gal can.
This is just a fix for anyone with this
problem. If you need to replace the


F-50 SEEPS 0 2l
PAST THIS --
SEAL MOTOR-' % .d
lube, be sure to use some Freon TF to
flush that F-50 residue from the ped-
estal. DS can order a 60-lb drum of the
freon under FSN 6830-082-2411,
MSFCS SPEC 237A or equal. It's listed
under Item 263, page 63, TM 9-4935-
501-15P/1 (Sep67).


SOME BURN SPOTS OK

Burn spots on the plan indicator cathode
ray tube inside your Hawk AN/TPQ-21
simulator station and battery control central
NO MORE THAN 1/a-IN don't always mean that tube's no good.
DIAMETER BURNS Depends where it's burned.
SPOTS ALLOWED \ It's OK if the burned area's no more than
S 5 KM from the CRT's center ... or beyond
Sthe 5 KM limit, but less than 1/8-in diam-
eter. Anything larger is no good-except
for classroom or other training uses.
.v 'Best way to minimize burning problems
is to follow the de-energizing steps in Table
2-5 of TM9-1430-501-12/1 (Jul67) forthe
5 KM UMIT BBC .and in Table 5 of TM 9-1430-512-
ANY SIZE OK 12/2 (Jul 64) for the simulator station.
But an air bubble at the CRT center is something else. That means you've
got a weak spot in the glass. Trade tubes.
20


The perfect corrosion combination is a Hawk site next to the sea. And don't
think your XM501E2 and E3 loader-transporters don't feel it, too.
Your loader's suspension system starts hurting for lube servicing soon after
the relentless attack of rust succeeds in freezing the plugs to the roadwheel arm
bearing assemblies. One or 2 attempts to break the plugs loose rounds 'em off
to the point where they have to be drilled out.
The solution is to substitute a brass
hex head plug ... FSN 4730-287-3281
... which will not seize and can be re-
moved with a socket wrench. I
Remember, the lube level should be .
at the check plug level on each road- .
wheel arm and up to the level of the '
plug hole in the hub caps for the road- REPLAC WITH BRASS
wheel bearings. PLUG FSN 4130-287-3281
wheel bearings.
CHECK LOOSE BOLTS
Loose bolts can also cause trouble in the suspension system. Wear marks and
discoloration between the track pins and links are good visual clues. Or you can
tap the track bolts sitting over the mid-
die roadwheel to see if you get any 1
jiggle from the wedge nuts holding
them.
Replace the worn bolt link or re-
tainer as required.
You might also check for loose bolts
in the final drive U-joints. Torque 'em
to 100-150 lb-in.
21





TREBLE IN YOUR PCV?
A'Sim


AD- Hey, Mr. Troubleshooter-quick, now-can you put
T YOUR your finger on your vehicle's PCV valve?
N THE (Or maybe you call it a Donaldson valve-or meter-
.E.
M715 ing valve-or ventilation control valve-or ventilator
TRUCK, regulator.)
NCE!








rr'


If you've got a gasoline engine in
your vehicle, you've probably got PCV
GIVE UP?? WELL, LOOK -positive crankcase ventilation. You'll
AGAIN... THERE IT IS! find PCV in all Army tactical wheeled
vehicles that have gasoline engines. And
it's in most gasoline-engine, commer-
cial-design vehicles built in the past few
years.
Your engine's PCV is controlled by
a valve, a li'l bitty gadget with only one
or two simple parts inside depending '
on whether you've got the spring-
loaded type or the vertical slide weight
type).


A dirty PCV valve will cause all kinds of trouble in your engine.
F'rinstance, Mr. Troubleshooter, are you trying' to find the cause of:


It's a good bet you've got a bum PCV valve. Either it needs cleaning or you
need a new one.
Sooner or later, your PCV valve is bound to get fouled with crud vented from
your crankcase. Your valve controls the amount of fumes, water vapor and other
junk allowed into the PCV system. This stuff is sucked into your intake manifold
and is burned along with the fuel-and-air mixture that runs your engine. That's
"positive crankcase ventilation"--you've got the same thing on your own car
if it's a fairly late model.
23


If


*49" o







Stc CLSD you PC av esfms
Wae vpr n croivea idspieupi


It's up to you to keep your PCV valve operating free 'n' easy. Your vehicle's
-20 TM calls for cleaning your PCV valve at every S service. (Commercial vehicle
manuals usually specify 6,000 miles.)
But this semiannual cleaning may not be enough-especially if your vehicle
has to do a lot of idling or stop-and-go operation. And your PCV valve should be
checked more often in cold-weather operations.
If you suspect your PCV valve is causing engine trouble, here's a quick 'n' easy
way to see if it's working' like it's s'posed to:

Take the hose off the inlet end of the valve. A good, clean PCV valve should make a
Then, with your engine running at idle speed, clicking sound when you shake it. This means
lay your finger lightly over the open end of the plunger is free. You also should poke a
the valve. You should feel suction. And you stiff wire in the inlet end of the valve and
should notice a difference in the sound of your push the plunger to see if it'll go all the way
engine. If you don't,your PCV valve is prob- toward the outlet end.
ably plugged. SUCTION?






Maybe you need a new PCV valve, but try cleaning your old one before you
chuck it out.
Some PCV valves come apart for cleaning. You use dry-cleaning solvent or
mineral spirits paint thinner. Carburetor cleaner is good, too. And you may have
to do a little brushing if the stuff is stubborn. Be careful, though, not to stretch
or mangle the spring used in the spring-loaded type valve.
If your valve does not come apart for cleaning, just let 'er soak in the cleaner.
Then swish it around to flush out the junk and give it a shot of compressed air
in each end. Careful ... use low pressure. Wear goggles for safety.


,15S55s k -^AH" p


Stuck opEN your PCV valve lets too much
crankcase gas go through at idle speed. This
upsets the fuel-air mixture fed by your car-
burelor. I







In a pinch, some valves of this type con be taken apart for meaning. Stick a blunt rod in the
inlet end of the valve. Give the rod a rap with a small hammer or stick of wood to drive the

INLET PLUNGER RETAINER OUTLET
END END




SMALL END
retaining ring out of the other end. Then the plunger and spring will come out. When you're
putting' the valve back together, after cleaning, make sure the plunger and spring are positioned
right. Use a stick of wood to tap the retaining ring back in very carefully.

While you're cleaning your PCV
valve, it's also a good idea to make sure
the connecting hoses or tubes are clean CHE(K FOR
inside. Check, too, for leaks-like lEAKS
breaks or loose connections. "

MULTIFUEL TRUCKS... FROZEN FUEL?

WOTTAYA MEAN NO- BUT
FROZEN FUEL THE WATER
F FILTERS?? IN YOUR FUEL
FUEL DON'T WILL...AND
FREEZE! DID!



Nope, that's not frozen fuel blocking' up the fuel system in your multifuel
engine truck. It's frozen water-ice!
That water you forgot to drain from your fuel filters has frozen solid. Fuel
can't get through. You're goin' no place until you get those filters thawed out.
You'll have to put your truck in a warm place for a while. Or, if you're in a
hurry, use hot water to thaw your filters. F'rgoshsake, don't go usin' a torch to
thaw out a fuel filter!
Now you've learned a lesson. It's more important to drain your fuel filters
every day in cold weather than at any other time.
And don't forget to add alcohol to your fuel, per para 41, TM 9-207 w/Ch 1
(Feb 63). Diesel fuel systems get the alcohol treatment now, too, per USATACOM
Msg 1-23033 (Jan 68).
25






FIRE EXTINGUISHER SETUP

Dear Half-Mast, THIS
AR 385-55 (Sep 65) tells IS TH
you to put fire extinguishers LATEST!
in tactical trucks under cer-
tain conditions. But many
TM's don't say where. Do
you have any inside dope?
SGM R.G.C.

Dear Sergeant R.G.C.
You must be referring to the 2 1/2-, 5- and 10-ton trucks. The spot to mount
fire extinguishers on 'em is the lower right-hand firewall inside the cab-that's
if your CO gives the go-ahead.
You'll find four knockout plugs on the firewall for an "old" extinguisher
bracket, but with the latest standard extinguisher, FSN 4210-555-8837, you can
use only 2 holes, maybe. If you run into trouble, start fresh. But mount in the
same area.
Here's the spot for the 2 1/2-, 5- and 10-
tonners ... and the hardware you need. INSIDE
THE CAB





353i5-i'


I ... BUT, LOOK FOR


On other 1/4-, 3/4- and 1 1/4-ton trucks, you can get all the dope you need
from the vehicle TM's. Hj w
26




















You tee-up right with a multifuel engine, and you'll make long drives with-
out a hitch. If you don't, you'll blow your stack soon enough.
A multifuel truck can't stand a snafu on any fuel return tubing, FSN 4720-
135-4424 or tee assembly, FSN 4730-226-1655.
A goof will show up fast in a new replacement.
Like in golf, you concentrate on a cool approach. Then, study your obstacles.

KEEP MUSCLE POWER DOWN-Most of your DEPEND ON SKILL Know your tee parts.
problems can come from too much tightening, See how the brass sleeve and tee nut fit
especially in cold weather when the plastic around the tubes. Be sure you don't dog the
tubing gets brittle. injector nozzles with shavings.




V-^B .^-- .^^,, ^K'r I ^ ^^


MAKE A GOOD CUT-Your plastic tubing
comes in bulk. Cut the exact length before
you put it on.
s~l 2^


CHECK YOUR FORM Don't climb over the
engine, stomping the tubing with your foot,
or otherwise mess the tubes with tools.


This PM tee-up is bound to give you smooth sailing.


























This a ikelectd Sd ia roana pobi
of mtred to organdotmal uI nleol-
naon peoronin. hla lrd is sampided
Imo rnce. AG DiOnbuison Ca.ers
guilMie. For complete deolIs -e DA
Pao ,10-4 Ilun 69P. and Ch I (Aug 69).
TM'i, fr's, IE., DA Pam 310.6 lu.l 691.
and Ch I (Oc 69J. SC. and SMi, DA
Paa 31a.7 (Sep 69, MWO'I and DA
Parul I20 (IApl 6lS,COMSK2 Pubs.

TECHNICAL MANUALS
TM 5-2105-960-14, 4P. Oct. Moral.
Oulbonld JO hP
IM 5-4310-232-20P. Sep. Comp, Recip
Au, B CFM, 175-PSI, Hand Iluck Mid
TM 5-4310-335-20P, Sep, Compresso.
Resp. Ar. Wnl mid 4 CIM, 3000 PSI
TM 5-4320-255-13. Sep Pump Canlri.
Pnr. 110 GPM Fr waar
TM 5-4940-219-17, Aug. Snop Equip
Gen Pu.p Iep-:l, Sel..lradler
TM 5-665-293-13. Sep, Oug Mine
Dolonto..
TM 5-6675-296-20P. Ol. Theodollle.
Sunreying
TM 9-100-249-12, C3. Oct. M16,
MI6AI, i sln
TM 9-1005-286-10, No, G.n, AA
Towdl 20MM, XM167
TM 9-1005-299S0P. Sep. Arm S.b-
sysfie 20MM Auto Gun. XM35
IAHIGI .
TM 9-1410-375-10P, Sup. PInhing
TM 9-142 -35-.1SP, Sap. Perh ng.
TM 9.1423-S30-20P, Jul. PFhing
IM 9-1430-254-15P/4, Sap. Imp
Nike Her.
IM 9-1430-S05.25P. Sap. HN.k Can.
solo AN 1ISW .
TM 9.1430-I11-15P. Aug. hawk
Radar So' ANIPaPO )
TM 9-1440-250-25P/6/1. Sp. Imp
N.il Hes.
TM 9.1440-301-20P. Jul. S.ge.anl
Laurch Sloalan
rM 9-1440-S55-12, Oct Chapa.al


TM 9-2300-203-12, C7, Oct, M59 and
M84 Carrier.
TM 9-2300-224-20, C13, Oct, M113,
XM474E2, M577, M106, M132,
Carriers.
TM 9-2300-378-20P/1, Aug, M60 and
M60AI Tanks.
TM 9-2320-224-10, C6, Jun, Ml14,
M114A1 Carriers.
TM 9-2320-230-10, Jan, Truck, Cargo,
8x8, M656, Tractor, XM757, Van
Expansible XM7??.
TM 9-2350-300-10, C3, Oct, XM163
SP Antiaircrafl Gun.
TM 94935-253-15P/2/2, Oct, Imp
NikebHerc.
TM 9-4935-425-15P, Sep, Redeye.
TM 9-4935-585-14/2, C1, Nov,
Chaparral.
TM 10-5410-221-10, Aug. Expandable
Shellr.
TM 11-5820-469-10, C6, Oct,
AN/TRC-80 Radio Sat.
TM 11-5820-690-15, Sap, R-1421/
URR Radio Set.
TM 11-6625-212-15, Jul, Frequency
MetUr AN/USM-26 and
AN/USM-26A.
TM 55-1520-224-10, Oct, OH-13.
TM 55-1520-224-20, Oct, OH-13.
TM 55-1520-224-20PMD, Oct, OH-13.
TM 55-1520-224-20PMI, Oct, OH-13.
TM 55-1520-225-20PMD, Oct,
OH-13S.
TM 55-1520-225-20PMI, Oct, OH135.
TM 55-1520-225-20PMP, Oct,
OH-13S.
TM 55-1520-226-20PMD, Oct,
OH-13T.
TM 55-1520-226-20PMI, Oct. OH-I3T.
TM 55-1520-226-20PMP, Oct,
OH-13T.
ESC'S
TM 9-1090-204-ESC, Oct, Multioro-
meot Mount XM156.
TM 9-2320-208-ESC, May, M38A1,
M38A1C, M381D, M170 A-lon Irk.


Immrr mn
TM 9-2320-210-ESC. May. Truck.
Cargo. i0 Ion MI35. Mll.
?215 M217, .220, M222, M221.
IM 9-2320-71 3-ESC, Sp. lI.ck M274,
Ml2 Al
TM 9-2350-215-ESC, Apr, M60/
M60A1 Tanks.
TM 11-5820-398-ESC, May, AN/PRC-
25 Radio.
MODIFICATION WORK ORDERS
9-1010-207-20/1, Oct, Arm Sub-
system MS.
9-1430 251-30/38, Oc, Director Sto-
lion AN/MSQ-91, AN/MSQ-P3, AN/
MSA-19D, and AN/MSQ-61A.
9-1440-250-30/5, CI, Nov, Imp
Nike-Herc.
55-1510-202-20/6, Oct, 0-1.
55-1520-209-30/91, Oct, CH-47.
55-1520-211-30/24, Sep, UH-1A.1B.
55-1520-211-30/25, Sop, UH-1A-IB.
55-1520-214-30/26, Oct, OH-6.
55-1520-217,30/40, Nov, CH-54.
55-1520-2221-30/17, Nov, AH-1G.
55-1520-221-30/30, Oct, AH-1G.
M715 and M725.
9-2320-244-20/1, Oct, l-ton Irk
9-2350-230-30/1, Non, XMS51.
MISCELLANEOUS
AR 746-10, Ot, Marking, Packing
Supplies & Equipment.
LO 5-2805-260-12, Sep, Outboard
Motor, 40 HP.
LO 5-3810-281-12-1, Sep, 12-2, 12-3
and 12-4 Crane-Shoavl, Truck Midi
20 Ton.
LO 5-4310-277-12, Aug, Air Compres-
lorn, 15 CFM.
1O 9-1005-298-12, Aug, Arm Sub-
system XM27E1.
LO 9-1005-299-12, Sop, Arm Sub-
system, XM35 Subsystem (AH-IG).
LO 9-1440-585-12, Aug, Chaparral.
LO 9-4935-587-12, Aug, Shop
S'AN/TSM-95 Chparral.
TB 5-2800-221-15, Sip, Engine
Application.


ShtUdae doon r? 79 towaw

Some people who should know better Touch-up paint jobs on M79 grenade
have been calling the M551 Sheridan a launcher plastic stocks should be done
"tank." You Sheridan crewmen and with the 16-oz aerosol can you get under
maintenance guys know it's an Armored FSN 8030-145-0042. It's Brown No.
Reconnaissance/Airborne Assault Ve- 30045. And it's available from US Army
hide ... Sheridan for short. But 'taint a Mobility Equipment Command by using
tank. Right! RIC A12.






















EAGLE ROOST!
-- EAGLE ROOST!
THIS IS EAGLE SCOUTONEI



i KiOC M EhiS WHEW... WE RUN CAIN'T...THE
RADIO 5 'EM OFF... LET'S BATTERIES'RE
TEAR GAS OUTTA JUICELESS
DAID! HERE, GEORGE! AND USELESS/
PAID!


YOU MEAN AHHH, WE BEEN PUSHIN' NOT SO LOUD...
YOU CAME OUT SHAPPAP THIS RIG A MILE... I THOUGHT I
ON THISPATROL AND ONLY THING I'M HEARD VOICES IN
WITH WEAl< PUSH! PUSHIN' FROM HERE THAT GULLY,,.SHH
BATTERIES? ON IS FEET...I'M WE'LL STASH IT HERE
...OH, MAN, PEROS IN A WEEK... AND COME BACK
YR SOMETHING' I AIM TO WITH GOOP
ELSE! RETROGRAE IN BATTERIES IN THE
ONE PIECE.!! MORNING!























MOST ENGINE-POWERED EQUIPMENT 'THIS MEANS BATTERIES
DEPENDS ON BATTERIES... ALL KINDS MUST BE READY-TO-WORK
OF WHEELED'N'TRACKEP VEHICLES- AND DEPENDABLE... AND
BOTH MILITARY AND COMMERCIAL THIS MEANS CONTINUING
DESIGN. AND THERE'RE PUMPS, PM BY THE OPERATOR.
GENERATORS, COMPRESSORS -
EVEN BOATS. -


MOVV, HERE'RE THE TOOLS YOU'LL
NEED... BESIDES TM 9-6140-200-15
( W/CHANGE 1, JUNE '62)














REMOVE
FILLERCAPS
AND CHECK
ALL CELLS.
1r THE
ELECTROLVTE

PLATHE. .
PLATIES...







The battery is the
heart of it all!
Powers equipment the-
large and the small 1!
But the operator must see
it's PM'p constantly...
And it's kept
at the ready-on call!


WIPERI
LIGHTS


ERLD
4BIia
NORMrr


IIII


IF YOU WANT TO DISPLAY THIS CENTERPIECE ON YOUR BULLETIN BOARD, OPEN STAPLES, LIFT IT OUT AND PIN IT UP.


STARTER


~Bp~l~B~I~I~


-~C3.








AMMMRET


IKEEP OUP ErYE ONJ
THE AMMETEP-OR TdlE
BATTERY GEtJERe4TCP
IrNPICATiO IT TELLS
YOU HOW 'HE 5 PUT1( 4C
OUT FO ou'! .J.!


HIC vi RciD~G
C0r1 YOuR AMMETEP
OR SAI-GEIl INDICArTO
AR E IGNJ' C-F C'VER*
CHARGING Tmii' cArJ
PILL YvCUR 6ATrER,
AN7oHER. 5IGN OF
DVERCHbRGING I=,
HEAVY' DEMAND F:OP
waTE I. BETTEre HAl
YOUR MECHANrJIC C(HE
9OtJR VOLTAGE PEGULA1I


BM'~P8IefIFIPrcum
(2-r~PES)






C a a a Se


U


fUT... F IT .HCO% Tr1 5
HIGH CGURNG ENGINE OPERATION ,
SPEPORT IT.' .


I I








REPORT C ACKS
OR LEAKS 1


YikEKE












BATTERY. REPORT BARE LEAR
E EORY COIEOEP PARTS
(YOU MAKE 14ESE EXPOS
CHECKS /

SEPE IF HOLIDOVWTS AKE
TIGHT ENOGH- O U IF OF
THE/'R TOO TIGHT SOLE
THE/'REL MASHING' /OUR \|V[HTS
BATTERY. REPORT BARE C!L EAR|
METAL OR CORROPED PARTS,








BE CAREFUL-
TO KEEP THIS
STUFF OUT OF
4VENT HOLES!E


- RINSE WITH CLEAN
WATER AND 9RY
WITH A "
LEAN RAG \i








-..AND
THAT'S THE
STORY ON
BATTERY PM..
NOW, THERE'S
AN ABANDONED
QUARTER-TON
ON THE
RIDGE, LET'S
00 A RUN-
THRU ON ITS
BATTERIES.


IF r. TOLD- YOU- ONCE-I- TOLD
YOU-A- HUNNERT-TIMES YOU
GOTTA-DO-A- BEFORE-OPERATIONS
CCHECK ON- YOUR- BATTERIES!!


A 25-KLICK HIKE HEY:- OUR YOU'RE OUTTA
TO PICK UP NEW TRUCK AIN'T YOUR COTTON
BATTERIES-JUST HERE...GONE.. PICKIN' MIND
BECAUSE YOU GEORGE!! WE
GOOFE EFT IT RGH T
_ '" Ho^ ^ tRFi L 7 10


FOR WANT OF PM
7THE BATTERIES WERE
LOST-FOR WANT OF
THE BATTERIES A
TRUCK WAS LOST-
FOR WANT OF A
TRUCK--


T'S
SGONE I
A GONE!
GONE!F


I
AAAHM,5, HAPAPP!









































GET HIGH TEMP TYPE
There's no need for you HueyCobra mechs to strain your peepers looking
for the high-temp packing ring called for in para 6-30 of TM 55-1520-221-20
(Apr 69). The hydraulic module filter element gets O-ring, MS28775-212, FSN
5330-579-8156.
37








IUEY


-


~~WL~


. 1 L/ LOOK AFTER US
- L/ UH-I'S ACCORDING
TO THE POOP IN THE
ORGANIZATIONAL
MAINTENANCE PUBS
AND APPLY A LITTLE
PM... IT'S ALL YOU
NEED TO GET THE
BEST OUTTA US!


SO, YOU'VE BEEN
ASSIGNED CREW CHIEF
ON A HUEY.K.. WELL,
CONGRATULATIONS
\ 1--\ -------1


*A I


ROTATE THE SLIDER
You're going to get normal wear on
bird parts and the cargo doors are no
exception. It's PM to the rescue.
When the slider insert wears to a
point where you're about to get metal-
to-metal contact between the slider and
the door track it's time for a switch.
Unlock the cargo door by going all
the way with the latch handle. The
latch pins have to be out of the recep-
tacle or they'll wear a groove in the
door frame.
Remove the door stops in the door
tracks at the aft end of the fuselage.


Nlove the door afr to expose the -
S slider. The bottom part of the insert SIDER
rides on the lower track and wears-
the top part just acts as a guide and
doesn't wear. WORN
\V.hen you see that the unworn insert END
is in good condition, rotate the slider
180 degrees so you wear the other
insert.
S Move the door forward, put the door
stops back and you've saved yourself a INSER
part replacement.
SEE MILES AND MILES
Looking thru scratched plexiglass can drive a pilot to
distraction. Flying formation or maneuvering close to the
ground calls for the best visibility a pilot can get, lest
some bird parts get bent up.
So, whenever you want to adjust the pilot's door win-
dow never reach for the handle without first loosening
the window stop... scratches the plastic something fierce!!
39







Using muscle on the window handle with the stop locked can even break the
handle off the window.
,IN





SNO MUSCLE HERE USE PLASTIC POLISH
FSN 7930-634-5340
ON THE WINDOWS

For other PM tips on how to keep bird transparent plastics from getting
scratched be sure you follow the cleaning info in Chap 1 of TM 55-405-3 (Jul 66).
SAVE THE ANTENNA

Saving the AN/ARC-30 OMNI an- WRONG RIGHT
tenna from wear and damage is "a .
must". Never secure the main rotor by
running the iedown straps thru the an-
tenna and then around the stinger. Tie
the straps around the tail boom.


SWING DRAG BRACE ASIDE
HEY,
THIS IS
A BRAND
NEW BLADE Stay loose when you're
Y' TURNE working up a sweat on your
bird. This goes double on a
main rotor blade change.
Follow the poop in Chap 8
of the Huey organizational
maintenance pub. In addition,
before you insert the blade into
the grip, make sure you swing
the drag brace out of the way
so you don't spear the new
blade.
'Tis mighty embarrassing if
you have to send a new blade
to the repair shop.


SWING DRAG
BRACE CLEAR


i







PULL BLADE PM

Those main rotor blades really cut
the mustard. But they definitely need
attention if you expect them to go the
full retirement route.
No matter where you operate-
every 25 hours or weekly, whichever
comes first-give 'em the full treat- KEEP 'EM CLEAN, MAN!
ment.
Wipe the blades with aliphatic naphtha, TT-N-95. FSN 6810-238-8119 will
get you a 1-gal can. You can also use dry cleaning solvent, PD-680, Type I. FSN
6850-264-9038 will get you a 5-gal pail.
Follow up with a mild soap detergent wash.
Rinse those babies thoroughly with plain cold water and dry them with dean
cloths.
tous TRY THIS CHAFING FIX
When it comes to pulling the PM Daily, Intermediate and Periodic, the
eyes have it. Look for any chafing which would clue you that maybe some studs
or nuts have not been torqued or some area needs beefing up.
One place you're likely to get chafing is on the 90-degree gear box support
casting, P/N 204-030-828.
Don't let it throw you. You can build up the casting by filling in the chafed
area with Metal Set A4. The chafing can't be beyond these limits.


41




(1,


To guard against future chafing put WADDYA MEAN
a strip of anti-chafing tape, P/N 549, I USED TOO MUCH!
FSN 8135-923-0591 (1 roll) on the for-
ward upper edge of the casting where
the drive shaft cover makes contact
with the casting. That'll do the trick.

CHECK OUT LEAKS
When you pull your PM, look for grease leakage GREASE
because it can mean some part is heating up from friction LEAKING?
and is about to crumble.
A shot tail-rotor drive-shaft-coupling seal, for ex-
ample, can drain a coupling... no lubrication. When
this happens the internal splines of the female coupling
half will be stripped by the external splines of the male
half, in short order ... like in a matter of minutes.
So, if you notice a grease leak check it out, pronto.

PURGE THE DIRTY GREASE
YOU SURE MORE
YOU FOLLOWED OR
THE LUBE LESS..
CHART? WHY?




Seeing that your bird gets an adequate diet of clean grease takes more effort
than servicing oil reservoirs. The job has to be done right, which means follow-
ing the lube chart to the letter.
Take the tail rotor hub and blade UBE THAT
grip bearings. If you're operating in a BEARING AT
dust bowl, dirt is going to contaminate LEAST EVERY
the grease. Gritty grease will scratch 25 HRS
bearings and set the stage for an auto-
rotation.
Get rid of the gritty stuff by lubing
the bearings every 25 hours-or more
often if needed.
To do a thorough job disconnect the
pitch link at one blade grip.
Purge the bearing with grease. Rotate the grip several times in both directions
to make sure you've purged all the dirty stuff.


Y






Purge again and wipe off the excess
grease.
Reconnect the pitch link.
Disconnect the pitch link on the S
other blade and make with the grease
gun in the same manner as on the first
bearing.
Reconnect the pitch link-you've
done it up brown.
Yessir--e-e, maintaining your new
charge is a challenge. Stick by the pubs
and pull your PM regularly and you'll
be a veteran crew chief in short order.

WHAT'S MY CONDITION?
I SUGGEST A DRIVE SHAFT
S-' ALINEMENT CHECK!





O,-










Dear Specialist P.S.,
You make the inspection, depending on the condition of your bird!
An alinement check is not needed on routine maintenance, such an engine
change--if the engine mount and shim stack-up is not changed.
But sometimes bird parts get bent a little and you have to follow the steps
in the special inspection section of the pub.
A hard landing, engine overspeed or overtorque are all conditions that may
mean a major component change and a drive shaft alinement check .
43







"NO CHAFING, SEE?"
f


You eager-beaver mechs better have AVE A UDDY
a look at the U-6A primer line, where MOVE THE
it's damped to a bracket on the oil CONTROL COLUMN
cooler.
Maybe the clearance between the line ... AND
and control column rod is not what it LOOK
ought to be? FOR
If there's contact, a chafed line could LRAN
rupture and spray fuel on the engine
when the primer is used what a
revoltin' development!
So, have your buddy move the con-
trol column thru full travel while you PRIMER
eye the clearance as the control rod LNE CONTROL
moves past the primer line. ROD
Re-position the line if there's a pos-
sibility it may be chafed by the rod.

NO LACK OF SLACK
S The next time you open up the engine
co% ling on your Chinook (CH-47C) focus in
on the N1 control wiring harness.
NSeems that if you have beaucoup slack in
the connector area you'll get a chafed line
INCREASE which, in time, can upset the applecart.
SLACK HERE So ... reduce the slack at the connector
and increase the slack between the upstream
REDUCE SLACK clamping.
HERE... ADD \ while you're at it, latch on to some spiral
SPIRAL WRAP wrap. P/N 900628-4, FSN 9330-836-8493.
Pur a piece of wrap on the harness, be-
r een the actuator connector and the first
breakoutpoint.
That'll stop the harness chafing.







CHECK FOR VIBRATION!








Dear Windy,
A T-53 engine vibration check is made after removing a major rotating part, such as
the hot-end, and if you suspect excessive engine vibration.
But, my buddy and have been going'round and 'round on whether an engine vibra-
tion check is pulled after a Huey engine change.
I say you don't need one. Who's right, Windy?
CW4 R.L.R.
Dear Mr. R.L.R.
YOUR SIDE KICK It's true that the engine post installation inspection on
S RIGHT, page 3-18 of TM 55-1520-210-20 (7 May 69) does not
include an engine vibration check.
However, the pub is being revised to add the inspection
to make sure the engine was put in right. A misalined
\ engine will give you vibration.
TM 55-1520-210-35-1(7 May69) para5-65 and TB 55-
2800-200-30/1 (20 Jan 69) para 28, both call for the
vibration test after an engine change. J


NO SQUATTERS, PLEASE!
To keep your baby from getting
middle-age spread, forget any improve- a.
ments to the undercarriage.
Seems that some types have used a
single thru bolt on the Huey (UH-1)
landing gear skid cross tubes instead of NUT ILA
2 bolts and nut plates. BOLTS
'Course, a single bolt won't carry the
big load the 2 bolts will carry ... could
make a squatter out of your bird.
Over-tightening of a thru bolt can
also buckle and crack the cross tube and sideline your bird from the fracas.
Keep your baby slim and trim. When you change a cross tube or a loose bolt
be sure you use the hardware listed in the bird parts pub.
45








/ SENSATIONAL...
PERFECT... CLEAN AS
A HOUNDS TOOTH... MAN
HOW'D YOU GET 50
- 5HARP.


D'ja ever wanna beat your friendly
CMMI avionics inspector at his own
game?
You got the chance, right now.
Following are repeated deficiencies,
shortcomings and suggested improve-
ments CMMI ream members find on the
OH-13 E, G, H, S and T and avionics
equipment. Correct 'em and you'll nor
only checkmate your C[MMI man, but
you give your Sioux some No. I type
preventive maintenance.
The bold type items are the most
serious and would get you a deficiency
on a CMMI. Others would rate you a
shoncoming or a suggested improve-
ment.
So, crew chiefs, aircraft mechanics,
avionics repairmen (and inspectors?),
away we go.


WHIP cracked, broken,
frayed or weathered, loose
in ferrule (if so, replace the
whip).

COUPLER mounting screws
loose.


E.cess L;OAA CABLE not securely taped
and string-tied (taped to frame with 3
wraps of electrical tape and string tied
with waxed linen or nylon, allowing Ii-
in string ends. Use a clove hitch and a
square knot).


BRACKET MOUNT allows
whip to foul rotor blades.
Bracket bolts loose or miss-
ing.


FORWARD
RADIO


W C-


[-p~






SForward Radio Box


SHOCK MOUNT dead, units
restrict shock mount action
or can bang together, screw
loose, missing, wrong size


RADIO SLIDE FASTENERS
broken, loose, missing
isalety wire not needed


R T MOUNT BOLTS and
CABLE CONNECTORS not
saletled.


CABLE CLAMP loose or re.
stricts receiver[ ransmittfe
movement on shockmount




COMPONENT MOUNT BOLTS not sale-
tied, ground strap broken, missing,
loose; mount binds or has loose screws;
electrical (onnectors under bo, are not
saletied


PL d


(more) Nl~ip Antenne






hwkstant Padt


TUNING SHAFT misalined (index mark
above dial must aline with white dot on
right end of dial scale when crank is
rotated full counterclockwise); crank
binds; dzus fastener loose.
CONTROL HANDLE butterfly| WELL,
switch broken, binds. You c


SWITCHES broken, knob ',
missing. Wi,
CHANNELIZATION CARD
missing, incorrect, not
readable.
PANEL MARhlNG or LET
TERING missing, not read-
able.


CIRCUIT BREAKER Wrong
(AN/ARC-60 and ARC-44
take 10-amp; ARA-31 takes


LIKE IT USED
TO!,??


GROMMET missing.

S CORD frayed, cracked,
broken.




Hmifnfg Aatem


UHF Antenna


LZ






IS THAT CRYSTAL CLEAR?

I'M BE SURE
KEEPING THEY'RE NOT
THESE... BASIC
THEY'RE ISSUE
HARD TO af
COME
BY!

Next time you're about to turn in your AN/ARC-45 radio set to support for
repair, give it a quick check to be sure you're not turning in some special fre-
quency crystals.
Your set's basic issue items list calls for the following crystals: 236.0 MHz,
241.0, 243.0, 255.0, 257.0, 272.0, 275.0, 301.0, 344.0 and 348.0.
If you've got some frequencies other than those, hold onto 'em when you
turn in your set because the replacement you get is gonna have only the
BIIL crystals in it.
Naturally, that'll leave you scratching for the crystals you really need.








HEEDLESS
HELMET HABIT'
Sit right down, Mac. Take that CVC helmet
off and sit right down ..
BESIDE it, beside it, Mac-not ON it!
You could warp the helmet over the earphone
area, just by using it for a campstool. You can
even damage the outside earphone mechanism
... or the mouthpiece.
And the sad fact is, once that fiberglass shell H
is warped outta commission, it's not much good ( GT OFF
for anything but salvage. MAN!
So, any time you think about sitting on your
SCVC helmet, the best way to do it is: Don't. (






WHA!



Wouldja' believe that taking the side panels off your
AN/VRC-12 series receiver-transmitters won't help it keep
cool?
Running the RT-246 or RT-524 with the panels off will
burn out the transistor banks. '
The moral: keep the-panels on. They force the blower air
through the vanes and to the prts that need 'em ... including
the transistors. The "kael on"- bit applies even when you're
troubleshooting the'RT.. su ,
Naturally, if the blowerStops. shut down the RT and send
it off to )our support. .-
A final "hor" note: Don't key your transmitter without an
antenna load, (artenna or dummy connected, that is). Firing
it up without a load can burn out your K301 relay or the
V6201 PA tube.



BAG THAT BATTERY
In the package or out, dry batteries/ ,/
like those for portable radio sets should C
keep their raincoats on until they're 1 '
used... and even longer. f i."' Si
F'rinstance, batteries like the BA- P.
386/PRC-25 and BA-4386/PRC-25 ,
are sealed with plastic moisture barriers R
(that's a bag, man) and then stuffed in j
cardboard boxes. Like the name says,
the bag keeps out moisture and should
stay on the battery until it's ready for ( I i
use.
Batteries like the BA-399/U, for the
AN/PRT-4 squad radio transmitter,
are individually sealed, and there's
enough room in the battery case for a
bonus ... you can keep the plastic bag
on when you shove the battery home.
The pins will puncture the plastic.













Hook up that rotary pneumatic grinder to 90 or 100 lbs worth of air com-
pressor and get with it. Cur as near 28 on the slicing edge as you can.
Check )our angle and thickness with a template like this
r n D [ GOOD


A TREEDO7ER
BY ANY OTHER NAME \
ROME PLOW,
F'RINSTANCE,
WOULD BE GREAT
WITH THE RIGHT KIND
OF TREATMENT.
SO, HERE ARE 7
SECRETS FOR YOU
LANDCLEARING
TYPES!


Grind off b
working on, k
When you
ah *. strictly No. 10


NO SUBSTITUTE FOR
A SHARP BLADE


YOUR BLAPE
HAS TO BE SHARP
FROM THE FIRST--
OR YOU'RE
WASTING TIME! A


*urrs on the bottom after you shape the top. Whichever side you're
;eep a solid support under the blade. Wear goggles when grinding.
get done, the underside must be flat. A curve up to the point is
I.

KEEP BLADE CLOSE
TO GROUND


Like you'd keep your head down in
a fire fight, ride that blade down low
when you work. But how low?
Rig so the stinger just floats on the
ground, but doesn't dig in. Carry that
right-side trailing edge 3 to 6 inches off
the ground, no more. Change that only
i when (1) you raise the blade to go to or
from work or to back up; (2) when you
have to chip on a large tree with the
stinger and web; or (3) when you have
to grub out large roots.
That blade, it helps keep large trees
off your head, because that's how to lay
'em ahead and to the right.


54


..


gr- --~ t rr 1~1I
L. i-:l IS I
Y


I IF


- --k






When you do have to grub though a bull blade's lots better take it easy.
Slowly stab the trunk or the buried root with the stinger, then crowd on power.
Whamming a tree with speed on is about like putting a land mine inside your
belly pan-track roller frames, ring gears, trunnions, and crankshafts smash
up. The secret is chipping away, not trying to take the whole trunk all at once.
Better still, it helps keep you from running over big stumps. Some guys have
had big stumps roll under 'em, raise blade and whole front up in the air-then
drop ka-thud right across the crankcase pan guard.


BEAT THE HEAT CLEAN
AWAY
DERIS

Maintaining proper water level is
simple. You just check it every 2 hours
on your at-halt look-see. Every now and
then, sharp-eye oil level.
Then you pick off leaves, fibers, _S
grass, sticks and such on radiator faces KEEP SCREENS CLEAR
and engine side screens.
Once every shift, blow out radiator






THE SE
GAGES TELL
You IF
YOUR PLOW
GETS
lee UNHAPPY.

Eyeball your transmission oil and radiator temperature gages close like-and
keep a watch on transmission oil pressure. If pressure drops and the heat gages
go up, the chances are you're operating in too high a gear. OVERHEATING ?
You do shift to a lower gear right then, but you keep on SHIFT DOWN I
with your gage-watching. If things don't steady down right
away, pick a spot where you can idle down and stop com-
pletely. Then find out what's cooking.
If you've been rolling a load in front of you, unload by
shifting direction slightly right and left, but quickly. Literally
shake your troubles off.






DO YOUR HOUSEKEEPING
Lubricating oil, hydraulic oil, air,
and fuel have to be clean, really clean.
You're the only one who can keep
'em so. So clean those filters.
Another place is that crankcase guard
plate. It has to be free from rock, mud,
and crud, or your oil will boil. If you KEEP
can't wash it with water successfully, OfL AN!
get support to drop it and scrape it
clean.
If you've been in heavy clay, wash
out with a hose between final drive ring
and sprocket. Otherwise, heat can bake
that clay to brick.
GUARD YOUR OWN
WEAR You get an air grinder of your own, to

let it get far away or out of reach. You
may have to use it even oftener than
S the once-daily SOP. You may have to
grub roots in rocky ground, f'rinstance.
You have a track-adjusting grease
gun around-or on the contact truck if
That's your unit SOP. If you don't take
care of track tension, no one else will.
TRY TEAMWORK







You may have heard that so much you're sick of it. But you can't beat it.
You need a thumbnail time-table and some signals.
You club up with a couple other operators, or maybe more. One team does
the lubing on all the club's rigs, another fuels, another team the cleanouts, and
you gang up to sharpen up. Your maintenance honcho can quarterback.
Then more'n one pair of eyes will see each rig, and more small troubles found
before they're big.
That's real PM.





























St~ aSJ ~ s-a iS- ~j'Y -


NOT HOT Al


Agreed ... mechanics keep the A
Whether it's 21AIO's or 31B20's.
sile or marine, armament or auto
neer--the man vith the % rench M
one they all turn to- PM- ise and
That's you, Knight of the Knot
business-
So much so that You might eten
It's eas) to get so wrapped up in sh
users that iou forget yourself and 1o
Like that air compressor in your
To tell the truth, compressors
much as anything else %ou could na
personal cars.


I -EM-4" wise, you heat your engine up
CO PRESSORS ARE worse, carbon it up faster, and lose

COMPRESSORS NEED CARE power quick-like.

rm'y running. TRIP THE TRAP
67"A 10, 63A to Z--mis- isYou could let a CMMI or a rough
otive. electronic or engi. rush of work catch \ou with a corn-
OS and know-how is the pressor on the blink-- but you
repair-a ise--. needn't.
[t Knuckles. It's a bus),, Mox nix whether it's a one-lung or
o 2-) Uinder. old Ord issue, made from
overlook .%our on P3M. can-iard leftoers. or brand new,
o'ing equipment back to these A heelbarrow-sry le rigs have
,ur own rools. common problems.
shop. f'rinstance. a a You can help yourself by being
get neglected about as .sure just vhat it is you have. Placing
ame .like mechanics' Ca possessike pa" on the right TM
for any piece of equipment is a fine
first step.

58 59


a


o,







-L







LIKE ON ENGINES-
But on any type, purple pencil people peek-for poop like this, because here's
how you get breakdowns:


DRIVE BELTS-Frayed, cut,
too loose or too tight (3 -in i
to I in deflection in center
is correct); pulleys out of
. line.

So far, so good? Then it's time for you to ...


COWLING, CASE Bolts
loose, covers bent, brack-
ets damaged.
COOLING FINS-Dirty,
broken, foreign matter A LEE e
blocking or air. AIR CLEANER-- Hoses
loose, cracked; cover loose.
k Dry-core filter choked or
blocked; grit covering sump
bottom in oil bath.
IGNITION Switch loose in
mount, handle broken, FUEL SYSTEM Filter
won't work; wires or con- clogged, bowl dirty; lines
sections loose, frayed; A loose, dripping, crimped;
spark plugs loose, broken. carburetor dirty, loose
parts missing.
That's just once-over, sure. But it'll give you an idea whether your outfit is ail-
ingon the go-end. If it is, call your sergeant, tell him you've got an in-house-must,
and get with it.
If nothing's out of whack too much there, though, you can go on to

.. THE COMPRESSORSS
That's your air-cramming end. Eyeball:







LS/' TEN UP. i REALLY LISTEN
IL CHLISTEN UP. .
HERE'RE A FEW
OIL CHECKING
TIPS!
Maybe you've operated this.rig-every day of the week
S-you've been in Beautiful Youknowwhere, but never really
paid any attention to the way it runs.
Could be you.don't even know how to check the oil-
because somebody else has always libed it.
Make this time different. Use tie TM if it'll help, and-

You check crankcase o. You check compressor oil You see if the relief valve
S will work you may be sur.
priced Here you d been th;nk-
ing all along that you had a
safety, and you hadn t or
Shad you?






Another check you can take care of right then is your tank drain. If water's
inside, let it out ... if the'drain works. If it won't work, fix. Then bend an eye to
the starter rope and pulley. A good rope in a healthy pulley, one with no gouges
or cuts in the faces or loose keybolcs is what you heed.
Scan the choke lever while you gec set to start. Be sure it works smoothly, and
opens easily when you've yanked the start rope and got going.
Now's when you use the ears, your ears. Listen for backfires, uneven opera-
tion after warmup, squeaks, rattles.
How look at the pressure
[specially see if the drive belt Check for fuel drip, smoky gage Before you close the re.
cage is chafing and cutting any exhaust, and excessive vibro- Ihef valve, iI should say impty
output lines. Iron .. or is it stuck?


61






Close the relief valve, and see if the
pressure gage builds up like it should. YES... EXCEPT
Get that done, and you're pretty well FOR THESE LAST
through with your running check. COUPOINTS

Q service inspection points. /














WHEELS -T ures cut, pre sure low (25 PSI is
right for most of these rigs) rims bent, parts
loose or missing.

FIRE EXIINGUISHER (f issued) Not handy,
seal broken, discharged. mTssing Ishould not
be mounted right on equipment, bul kept
lose by)


LOGBOOK, PUBS Missing, out of date



At this point, you needn't fear the salvage yard so .. In fact, there's a bonus.

THE EXTRAS
Keep in mind that these rigs weren't meant to be substitutes for heavy
engineer-type compressors on pneumatic tools. -ot such big jobs, get an outfit
heavy-duty enough to put out lots of air without gasping. These shop compress-
ors -are great in the spots they're meant to fill blowing dirt out of radiator
cores or filter elements, airing up tires, running plug cleaners, ad 'so on. Just
don't ask too much of 'em too fast.






HOW LONG CAN YOU STAY LUCKY?...
WHY THE HEA V KNOW- HOW! SO, HERE'S A LIST TO HELP
READING YOU WITH SOME ENGINES YOU MAY HAVE!


COMPRESSOR
MODEL ENGINE TM TM
Kellogg G311-PC 5.2805-25614 5-4310 27615
Harris 3MV 5.2805-257-14 5-4310-228 15
Champion LP-512?,
LP-512 ENG-I 5 2805-256 14 5.4310 241-15
Champion lP832s 5 2805-25714 5 4310-242 15
Kellogg G321-PB 5-2805-257.14 5-4310 245.15



Also real useful are the TM 5-2805-258 series and -259 series, and TM 5-
2805-213-14: and 24P. -Bear in mind, on Mil-Standard powered units, engine
manuals are one thing, and.end-item manuals something else. You can't al-
ways. be sure the engine you .have on the end item, or the compressor you get,
match 'riginai issue.. Yo might get a Harris 3MV with a -MI engine, or
a' ampip JP-682 with su.i power Don'r let Tha throw you. With the new
Ong i uuthe comprtssoorfl, you have all: the answers
c i5 such swishes cck your P. o sure your stock
gor 'in" t12& youteally us, not jst the one a rt;were
'^u1posc-'tj' g l hav parts that. f

NEED INDEX OR PS?
Indexes covering the following PS
SMagazines are available: 176-181, 182-
187, 188-193, 194-199. Only these PS 4
Magazines are available: PS 182 thru .-
S 184, 186, and 190 thru this issue. Drop 4 '.
a line to Sgt Half-Mast, PS Magazine, '1
Fort Knox, Ky. 40121.

WATER
oV't LISTER BAG FAUCET

No need to turn in that water sterilizing bag, FSN
4610-268-9890, because of a leaky or broken faucet. You
can order faucet, FSN 4510-277-9569, using RIC S9C.
63



















Hold one! Before you turn in your
immersion heater, FSN 4540-266-6835
or FSN 4540-453-9146, take another
look at it. Maybe it still can be used.
You can operate those heaters with
small holes or cracks in the partition or
baffle and it's not considered a safety
hazard.
But if it takes too much time to heat
the water because of the holes in the
flue partition or the baffle, that's some-
thing else. Go ahead and turn 'em in
for replacement.
TB 750-971-4 (Oct 69) gives you the
word on this.


LOOK INSIDE
FOR CRACKS AND
LITTLE HOLES HERE!


YOUR DRINKING CAP


Here are a couple of checks for you
on the special canteen cap issued with
the M17A1 field protective mask.
The cap doesn't work on some of the
early production plastic canteens (FSN
8465-889-3744). So best check your
drinking cap soonest.
If the cap doesn't thread on easy like,
you'll have to swap your canteen for
one that does mate right with the cap.
Also, when you're connecting the
drinking tube to the canteen,be sure the
cap's valve pin is centered. If it isn't


centered use the tube's quick-disconnect
plug to gently nudge the pin in place.


Nb


CHECK
THOSE
CONNECTIONS


Then with an easy-like rotating motion
press the tube's plug over the pin. The
drinking tube and cap connection must
be good and tight .. otherwise your
drinking cap won't work.


OH--I1ouT
A WEEK!


C

b







wA


The next Operation Trim on your
equipment records is cutting feedback
to just the equipment listed in Appendix
C of the new edition of TM 38-750 (30
Dec 69). It cuts in half the items report-
able on DA 2406, 2407 and the DA
2408-7 usage report, and it's effective
15 Feb 70. The word went out in a DA
Letter dated 11 Dec 69. (The new effec-
tive date changes the 1 Apr 70 date set
previously by DA Msg 931812.)


aedac Shck"
Remember you have to do it by the
numbers when you disconnect the power
supply cables on the M 8 (FADAC) com-
puter. First, put the computer's circuit
breaker on OFF. Second, unplug the
M18's power cables. If the circuit
breaker is not OFF, you'll be shocked
when you unplug the cables.


eH-47 Part
You CH-47B and CH-47C guys can
cool down now and find your repair
parts in TM 55-1520-209-20P (4 Apr 69)
and TM 55-1520-209-35P (4 Apr 69).
Just remember that the maintenance
words for your B and C models are in
the TM 55-1520-227-series pubs. The
repair parts music for all models (A, B,
C) is in the TM 55-1520-209-series P
manuals.


10 P&ate 64Chane
Sure, model numbers on lots of gen-
erators have been changed from Army
to DOD with new FSN's assigned. But
don't go banging on data plates or
stamping new FSN's. That's to be done at
time of general overhaul at GS or Depot
- no lower. You can use a wired-on tag
with the new info for convenience if you
want. And you don't need to change
accountability records.



M60 and M60A1-Tankers and CEV-
crewman:
Remember, the M3 electric heaters,
used on the M13A1 Gas Particulate Filter
Unit, have their own On-Off Switch. So,
everytime you turn off the filter unit, you
also have to reach over and turn off the
heaters. When you stop the filter unit,
you cut off the air flow through the
heaters. And,without air flowing through
them the heaters'll quickly burn up on
you.

Intent Supply
Latch on to DA Pam 350-55-1 and DA
Pam 350-55-2 (Aug 69). They're loaded
with unit supply-room and PLL know-
how. The -1 answers your questions. The
-2 illustrates use and maintenance of sup-
ply records and forms. They go together,
so you need 'em both.


Would You Stake Your Life on
the Condition of Your Equipment?










S'











EIR MEANtS
EQUIPMENT IMPROVEMENT
~ECOMMENPATION.
IT COULP ALSO STANP FOR
EXACT
IPENTIFICATION
ECORPEP
ON YOUR .
PA FORM 2407.
,....


qgww B -rwl 'ne








SPARDON
MY
FORM...
BUT- IT'S
THE QUICKEST
WAY TO
SEND YOU
A REPLY
ON YOUR
INQUIRY
ABOUT
PS
MAGAZINE
DISTR.IBurTON.
-y-


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