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Dirt will do you in.
It will if you don't watch
Just about the worst en
Semy of the World's Best
Army Equipment is dirt.
You find it in and around
your equipment in the form
of dust, mud, muck, sand, )
leaves and trash, and .
things like grease mixed
with mud, dust and all the
rest. Even water becomes I
"dirt" when it gets in "
things like fuel or oil. Y*
S So, before, during and
after your battle with the
enemy-especially before- .
you've got a big fight with
dirt. And it's one fight that
you've got to keep at night l
and day. .. "
S Keep your rifle clean.
SKeep dirt and water out of
your radio Clean, change
or drain your air, oil and
fuel filters. Keep covers,
ducts, plates and the like
on snug so dirt won't sneak
into your equipment.
Use a rag to wipe away
dirt, dust. water, oil or any.
thing else that gets where U _
It can foul you up. Clean off ON'Ai
dirt at every stop. LUBRI
You can prevent lots of
trouble if you carry on a 1
personal war with dirt.
k Never let it do you or your
It's good PM'to fight dirt.
1 i *PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE
ThE PIOMITIV MAINTENANCE MONTHLY
III. No 1 u 968 Sirle.
IN THIS ISSUE
MI Collimator 2-11 ruzedAmmo 16
diucal Equip 12.14 MIOG, MIOAl Carrier 17
Taeoi ole t,15 MIt MIIO Howimit 17
Aiming Circle 14 hike Heicuies 18-21
Azimuth ndlcator 15
GROUND MOBIUTY 22-27
M48ATank 2227 MullituelTruck 27
AIR MOBIUTY 37-45
Huei 38'2'43 ub CH47 4445
BMtenes 41647 ANIS043
Xelon Searchliig 41 PH47. K.L2 Camera
AnIVRC-12 49 SB-8S P.SB-2i20nP
ANIUSM'50 49 Cable Care
ANITRC24 50 K]06 GTool Kit
GENERAL & SUPPORT 54-64
IrCat 5440 Immersion Heater 63
roundRod 61 Fuerlteltr/Dip 83
0.KW Geerator 1 Bakery Equip 64
ine Detectr 62 New Pubtcaions 65
ta Lists 62 Suppl 10.11 12.18,1.
Use of linds for pritning of thi public
tion has bee aipprnved by Headquiater.
epautmet of the Amy. 12 February 1965
DISTRIBUTION: In accordance with re
quirements submitted on DA Fona 124.
iillll L '''' -J'' M'
No doubi abour it ... .\uur NII infiniti aiming'
reference collimator is a real jewel.
And why not, what with the way it's used for
indirect laying of tube artillery weapons by setting -',
up an optical reference that can be used to measure
deflection angles of the weapon. -
Pure and simple ... its mission is to simulate an
azimuth reference target at infinity. It does this with
a special reticle which can be illuminated -day and
In a few words, what you do is match the
numbers on the collimator reticle to the weapon's
panoramic telescope reticle. The called-out deflect-
tion is set on the panoramic telescope and the tube
is traversed until you are sighting back on the
collimator reticle, with the reticles again matching.
You're right.., you don't need aiming posts and
reflectors when you have the M1 collimator. Hold
one, tho. Keep your aiming posts handy. They're
great for setting up a known data point through all
S6400 mils. 1I
MOUNT AND YOKE
LIGHT SOURCE WITH
TRMEN POWER SUPPLY
The collimator assembly includes
optics in a mechanical housing and a LAMP HOUSING
light source. When the collimator is put
together, the lenses are fixed-focused to
do a job for you. You just plain don't
want to fool with 'em.
The collimator assembly is sealed to
keep out moisture. So the only part that
you can and should take off is the lamp CROSS
housing. LEVEL VIAL
The reticle pattern could be called an azimuth reference scale that is repeated
enough in a vertical line to set up a grid throughout the collimator field of view.
You use the cross-level vial on the collimator to cross-level this pattern.
About those sights on the collimator .. they let you come up with a quick
alinement of the collimator optics with the panoramic telescope on the weapon.
Here's what to look for when inspecting the collimator assembly. Take care
of the bold faced items right away, which is what you want to do with all of
the other components of the collimator.
a isp-dp*ik'6ju#wii. A-. m. ;
~i~un4u84 afoisture and wibacn~ot off die as~emb~il.
Fu tI4,po?, iq use. All- it akcs is cc soapathe 3
a66SbU s1ir 6n" the Cover hlWdir the foiilde
F LIATO (Oeal)De
C0d7akd diry corroded:
The knob smack dab below the
elevation yoke clamps the azimuth
workings. And a knurled screw
near the azimuth clamping knob
lets you make fine azimuth adjust-
At the top of elevation yoke are
two more knobs. When you loosen
the elevation clamping knob, you
can elevate and depress the colli-
mator from 71 to 852 mils. The
other knob lets you rotate the colli-
mator for cross-leveling.
The tripod mount's job in life is
to support the collimator assembly
-some 3 feet above the ground.
The hinged legs can be telescoped
and set at different angles so
that you can level the collimator
SPR LAM HOUING
Spar lam cordd bus-I
te *is g soke doen'
hol la p los i n~ huin.
There arc 2 \ass to get electrical
power to the 12-,olt lamp in the colli-
maror assembly -o that u can light
up the rticle \ hcn the collimator is
used with a rowed "capon, the power
comes from 4 BA 200/u dr% cell bart
rtries th.a go to make up the M9 batter.
power supply The hacteriius-the' re
each 6-VDC- are hooked up in series-
parallel to provide 12 volts.
With self-propelled weapons
like the late-model M109
howitzer, it's the vehicle that
makes with the DC power.
It has or will have -
a collector to plug in the
remote control light source.
.7C~ r~ -1: '"
i ;i :
Turning the lamp on and off is the
job of the remote control light source.
This is done a~ h the pushbutton
snitch. And the rhcosiac is used tn
brighten and dim the lamp light.
The connecting cables speak for
tiemselits. These tie in the collimaror
assembly, remote control light source
and M9 batter) po'cr supply.
(7tEFU5E rO WORK UNTIL YO7
FIX MY FRAYEPD~
M9 BATTERY; PIWER:;SUPPL--. Cdise
.cracked, dented, paint m~lisqint: lt h
and carrying handle- broken;;missing;,
batterie.scorroded;,weak, dead; battery
connections corrodned loose :Ibusted; .
;,receptacle loose, dirty, corroded, beat-
up. .. -." '
REMOTE CONTROL LIGHT SOURCE -
Paint missing; case dented, cracked;
rheostat knob doesn't turn, turns hard;
knob missing; knob setscrew and pin
loose. missing; pushbutton switch
doesn't click on and off; lamp in colli-
mator assembly doesn't go on when
switch is pushed on or become brighter
and dimmer when rheostat knob is
turned in one direction or the other;
holder on cover assembly bent out of
shape, busted; screws and nuts loose,
missing; washers missing.
CONNECTING CABLES Frayed, loose in case, kinked, broken; connectors cor-
'roded, beat up.
After the weapon has been laid for direction, you usually can emplace the
collimator anywhere from 12 to 48 feet to the left front of the panoramic tele-
scope. You'll probably find, though, that somewhere between 17 to 35 feet will
be the best distance.
E COLLIMATOR ,
With the collimator about where you want to set it up, loosen the strap on
the instrument cover and let the tripod legs go to the ground. (Watch those legs
they can't take rough handling.) Then open the latches and take off the cover.
The collimator should be emplaced as steady as possible. Also try for a
good leveling job, but no real sweat here 'cause the reticle can be cross-leveled
H... Now loosen the azimuth andleva-
l JUST S rion clamping knobs and move the
uT 5 -! collimator-at the same time looking
A ?"?,-^--. ----- ------------- .f
Down the front and rear sights-until
the optical system is sighted on the
panoramic sight of the weapon. Then
Next loosen the collimator clamping knob and rotate the collimator assembly
on its axis until the reticle pattern is cross-leveled. It is when the bubble in the
cross-level vial is centered tighten the clamping knob.
With your connecting cables hooked up, you're all set to light up the reticle,
make final adjustments and put the collimator to use.
Wanna save your batteries? Do your adjusting by daylight, if you can. Take
off the lamp housing and let the daylight illuminate the reticles for you.
LAYING AND REFERRING
To get accurate laying and referring, you should be able to see a reticle area
of at least a 7-mil diameter at all times. And you can usually see this much of
the reticle when the collimator is that 17 to 35 feet from the weapon telescope.
After the collimator's been alined
with the weapon's telescope, your sight
picture should look like the initial aline-
ment picture at the right.
The "V" look of the pattern clues AoME
you on left or right displacement of the \i
weapon even though you can see only a
small section of the pattern.
To correct for displacement, you
want to sight on the collimator and
match the reticle of the telescope with
the collimator reticle pattern. In other
words, if you see 10 and 15 in the colli-
mator and the reticle slopes up from
right to left, you match the left part of
the telescope reticle with the collimator
If the numbers don't jibe, you're on the wrong side of the collimator reticle.
Suppose the weapon jumps during firing. All you have to do to bring it back
to the right direction is traverse it until the reticles are again alined.
NOW WHAT, TRAVERSE IT
CONNIE? UNTIL THE RETICLES
PARTS AND PUBUCATIONS
You'll never get finger cramps from ordering collimator parts. You can re-
place the 12-volt lamp, FSN 6240-539-9659, for lighting the reticle with towed
artillery ... the 28-volt lamp, FSN 6240-186-6276, for self-propelled weapons
... and the BA 200/U dry cell batteries, FSN 6135-050-3280, for the M9 battery
power supply. That's it.
As for publications, there's only one at the moment that has scoop on
the collimator, at least for firing batteries. That's TM 9-1015-234-12 (Mar 65)
for the M102 105-MM towed light howitzer.
THE V-C'LL NEVER SPOT
There are stops on the collimator to THIS COLLIMATOR!
keep it from going too far in elevation
It's been said before ... and here it is
again. When you're not using the colli-
mator, put the cover on.
Keep all exposed parts clean and dry.
If any shiny spots show on your colli-
mator from paint peeling or getting
chipped off, get out the spray can or
brush and put a dull-type coat on it.
Besides protecting the metal, this'll help .1 k
keep Charlie from spotting your outfit. ,
Any paint will do in a pinch, but try to use Enamel, olive drab semigloss,
No. 24087 FSN 8010-297-2124- 1-gal can. It's listed in Change 1 to your
M102 howitzer's TM.
Ease up when any of the different knobs on the collimator have been turned
as far as they can without more muscle.
If you have the time, bury the connecting cables a few inches in the ground
Clean the optics with lens paper and alcohol. You can get 100 7xll1-in sheets
of the paper from Fed Cat C6630/6640-IL (1 Nov 66). They come under FSN
Although alcohol will do a real good job on the optics, Cleaning Compound,
optical, lens, liquid, is also a good bet. FSN 6850-227-1887 is worth 1 quart.
It's on page 4.64 of Fed Cat C6800-IL (1 Jul 67). One thing about the com-
pound, though ... it's not made for freezing weather.
You don't need an armed guard, but it pays to put something like a rope
around the collimator to keep people from walking into it. The guy who some-
how manages to knock down or just move the collimator shouldn't put it back
where he thought it was and forget it. New settings will be in order. Report it.
Put binoculars in a guy's hands
and he knows that he'll bring trouble
in a hurry if he drops 'em.
It takes longer than a bounce, but
heat and humidity also have a way of
fouling up binoculars and other sight-
ing and fire control gear-like range
finders, aiming circles, telescopes and
You're not going to beat the climate,
but you can at least battle it to a draw.
One thing to remember is that your
sweat is rough on metal-it can lead
WIPE OFF PUT ON A LIGHT
SWEAT! COAT OF GREASE!
to corrosion of the unpainted parts. So
after you handle the equipment, wipe
off the sweat and put a thin coat of
grease on the bare metal spots. What
you want to use is Grease, Aircraft and
Instrument, MIL-G-23827. Page 4.14
of Fed Cat C9100-IL (Sep 67) shows
different size containers, like FSN 9150-
985-7245 for an 8-oz tube.
It's also a good idea to put a little
grease on things like screws and pins
to keep 'em from rusting. A new coat
of grease once a week ought to do it.
If any painted places get scratched,
chipped or worn, get to 'em with some
touchup paint as soon as you can.
If the lens or other glass in the gear
gets wet, use lens tissue paper that's
been folded a few times (to keep oil on
your skin from getting through) to get
rid of the water. Be sure you use plain
lens tissue-not the silicone-treated
kind. Silicones can actually put wear
and tear on a lens. Paper with silicones
feels stiff... and its package reads
DIP IN UQUID
SHAKE AWAY WITH FOLDED
EXCESS... AND LENS TISSUE-RUB
CLEAN LENS FROM CENTER OUT
USE LENS BE SURE
Same goes with the entire piece of equipment. If you're not using your binoc-
ulars, f'rinstance, put 'em in their case, a case that's not dirty or wet.
When it comes to a rubber eyeshield clean it with mild soapy water-
not dry-cleaning solvent or paint thinner. Once the eyeshield is dry-keep it
away from high, dry heat-dust on some technical talc.
ywNEW.' 'EEP 'EM DRY T b
AS YOU CAN. Yk / P
In that damp climate, your optical
instruments will fog up inside. When
yL.: that happens, get your support unit to
H lend a hand. They'll have to purge
N them or otherwise get the moisture out
and seal them up again.
To help prevent this, keep them under cover as much as possible. When not
in use, keep them in their cases. If they've got to stay out on equipment, keep
them protected from a direct downpour. Keep them as dry as your situation will
One of the most important things to remember--no matter what part of the
world you're in-is to shy away from disassembling or making adjustments
that're not spelled out in your TM.
A FEW POINTERS
How about unconfusing me?
Just what is the story on when and how the micrometer pointer is supposed to
turn on the M28, M28AI and M28E2 azimuth indicators? Does the pointer work the
same for each indicator?
Dear Sergeant I. S.,
On the M28 micrometer pointer will
follow the resetter knob around the
scale when the resetter knob is in its
normal (up) position. But with the
M28A1 and M28E2 you have to push
down on the resetter knob to turn the
If things don't work this way with
your azimuth indicator, call your sup-
14 ?q#1J4 t
AIM TO PLEASE
What do you do when the needle
for your M2 aiming circle acts up-
like sticking or not returning to the
same point after going all the way in
one direction and just as far in the
Right ... you send it up the mainte-
nance line for a going over. Maybe the
pivot or needle is dirty or the pivot
point is flat or the needle is unbalanced
or the pivot assembly was damaged
when it was made.
I LOK... I AND COVER
... WHEN NOT IN USE
You say something's pulling the
needle away from magnetic north? Be-
fore you send the aiming circle back
for repair, check it in a couple locations.
Things like motors, generators and iron
in the ground can make like a magnet.
And when you're not using the aim-
ing circle, lock the needle with the
locking lever and put on the cover.
QUIET... BUT So you're laying your arcil-
I'LL RETURN y MY lery with your Brunson Model
IT 500S N 5THE ACT./ 901 theodolite ... and maybe
DOWN. 10 seconds after you have the
bubble in the vial centered, the
thing goes out of adjustment.
The bubble just plain won't
Ready for a simple PM an-
The sun. That's right the
sun's heat can throw the theo-
dole out of adjustment. So...
keep it shaded.
BE REAL FUSSY
WITH FUZES- THEY'RE...
L- WHEN WHILE Jn
ARMED FZIS s,
Hey, you artillery guys OR JUT
... and all you guys HANPLING
who pass the ammunition THEM ,.
- superquick (MTSQ)
and point detonating
and any fuzed ammo
spread this warning:
Without meaning to, you could arm when you screw it
the fuze and then any rough handling wrench.
or dropping after that could set it off If you spin it so
.... with loss of life, liberty and pursuit it-or if it rolls on
of happiness-plus equipment. that's FAST-and
Artillery fuzes, y'know, require rota- 37-MM or larger r
tion, or set-back-or a combination rate of 300 rotati
of both-for arming. This rotating,
though, must be done slowly-like
by hand or with a
that you let go of
the floor brother,
dangerous! If any
found gets spun at a
ons per minute-
What you want to remember is this:
Some of these fuzes contain boosters
-with enough powder in 'em to blow
=your hand off. They're dangerous as
soon as they're armed. Others, without
these boosters, become dangerous if
armed accidentally when somebody-
)ou, maybe-goes to assemble it to a
So, no fooling with fuzes, yes?
BEFORE YOU ELEVATE
It's reminder time for you guys who
(HECK TIE HANDCRANK. do your shooting with the M107 SP
175-MM gun or M110 SP 8-in howitzer.
That is, watch what you're doing
when you elevate the weapon to keep
from battering the elbow on the Ml15
panoramic telescope, the M137 tele-
scope mount or the main mounting
bracket for the M137.
If the turret manual traverse gear
handcrank is in line with the 'scope and
mount, it's going to do some clobbering
when you elevate.
-- In other words, move the handcrank
BE SURE IT'S CEAR out of the way before you elevate so you
won't wind up being depressed.
THE STOPS STAY IN
Watch it, Man, you'll goof the mission if you
take the stops off the turntable mount of your
M106 or M106A1 mortar carrier to gain extra
traverse. Bad idea, entirely.
These stops were put there to give you a
safe area of fire-825 mils right and 775 mils
left of center.
If you take out the traverse stops, you'll end
up firing your 107-MM mortar at dangerous
angles of traverse. No kidding, the firing pres-
sures against the side of the hull can ruin you
with bending, warping and maybe even break-
ing the hull welds to boot.
What's more, the stops can get themselves
lost pretty fast after you remove 'em. They're
non-supply meant to last as long as the
carrier, maybe longer. Losing 'em would cost
So, leave 'em be, huh?
... .... .
11, 4R ;z,
SE H ERCULES
FOIL MOISTURE OIL ARC = TROUBLE
It's mighty easy to accidentally break
the foil, seal on the XM4 electric
squibs for your Nike-Hercules M30 and
M30A1 rocket motors. And if the foil '
splits open, moisture gets into them. '
Next comes corrosion and then the elec- -'
trical circuit goes to pot. ,'.
So, please to handle the squibs with
Nothing like heading off trouble be-
fore it starts in your Nike-Hercules
AN/MPQ-T1 simulator station.
MONITOR N 1 3D PAS
You can do it by asking your support
people-every 180 days-to lube the
4 gear bearing holes in each yoke
drive. There's a yoke drive in each of
the 3 passive interference generator
It's one thing for you to get all fired
up over something, but when your
Nike-Hercules target-ranging radar
starts spouting flames, that's another
And fire is what can happen if the
L1 and L2 reactors and the T3 and T5
drawers and a fourth in the PPI
monitor assembly. Without lube, the
gear train in each yoke drive will bind
and the sweep on PPI scope and flying
spot tubes will freeze.
DON'T FORGET THESE
When your support unit gets your
DA Form 2407 (job order), it will go
to work on the gears with molybdenum
disulfide grease, MIL-M-7866. Fed Cat
C9100-IL (Sep 67) shows FSN 9150-
753-4830 is worth a 1-lb can.
checks and adjustments on the TRR,
see if there's a bulge to the reactors and
transformers. Also be on the lookout
for oil coming from the backward wave
oscillators. And look for frayed wire
insulation and bum soldered connec-
tions around the clipper tubes and
You can come up with 10 cases of the fits in
trying to take stubborn screws out of the access
doors on your Nike-Hercules missile.
Seems that some screws in the supply system
are minus a coating of dry film lubricant. And
without this stuff, the screws are just plain
tough to get out. /f '*_ _f _
You can spot these screws fast-they have a
sort of gold or silver finish. And before you put
any in a missile, spray them with dry film lubri-
cant. You'll find a 12-oz can of it on page 44
of TM 9-1410-250-15P/1/1 (Apr 67) under
the name: Graphite, Colloidal.
You've got to have a pull the right
kind when you go to remove the kind
of printed wiring assembly you find in
electronic drawer "A" of the operator's
console in your Nike-Hercules AN/
MPQ-T1 radar simulator station.
The wrong kind of pull is the kind
where you pull on the assembly with
I GUIDE I
The tool's also the thing to use when
you want to remove an extender board
from the drawer. And, you can't go
wrong in separating a wiring assembly
board from an extender board by grip-
ping the assembly with the extractor.
But don't do any jiggling.
I MISSING |
your finger and, at the same time, shake
it up and down to free the connector
pins on the plug from the jack on the
drawer assembly. The guide pins can't
take this kind of jiggling and it's
also rough on the connector pins.
The right way to remove the assem-
bly is with your extractor tool.
It grips the assembly
edge... lets you pull it
straight out -easily.
If you happen to break a guide pin,
don't fiddle around with the wiring
assembly or extender board it was on.
You can really bugger up the connector
pins without the help of the guide pins
when you go to put the assembly or
board in the electronic drawer.
/ A BUSTEP PIN
MEANS YOU NEEP
A NEW ASSEMBLY
OR BOARD! /
, THE RIGHT KIlN
Dea`CUTw IT OUT
The plastic escape hatch covers on our Nike-Hercules vans busted some time back,
but we haven't been able to come up with replacements. Neither has our support unit.
SSG. P. H.
Dear Sergeant P. H.,
That's because there are no ready-made covers. Your DSU has to get a sheet
of plastic and cut out covers for you.
FSN 9330-225-4651 is good for a sheet 36-in x 18-in x ie-in. The plastic
shows up in Fed Cat 9300-ML-A-CB2 (1 Oct 67). /-
BEAT TH EAT SO SARGE!
lll', -~ PLUGGEP
You say you've got the new metal grills for the light fixture assemblies in
your Nike-Hercules trailer vans,; but you're still having heating troubles
- like burned-out lamps?
Try this: Check the lamps. If they're 60-watt-jobs, switch to the 25-watt ones,
the kind you find under FSN 6240-143-3059 on page 39 of TM 9-2330-212-
24P (Mar 66).
N ( THE RIGHT BOLT
Just what machine bolts are we supposed to use to mount the hydraulic pumping
unit in our Nike-Hercules missile-AN5-13A or AN5-14A?
SSG D. B.
Dear Sergeant D. B.,
A SILLY You want the AN5-13A-the one
MILLIM R that's 1%2 inches long.., goes by FSN
ML T I 5306-151-2626 ... and is on page 24
In VN-land you may have problems with the MI cupola that you never had
Like fungus ... for fungus fighting you need a dry cloth and plenty of energy.
Rub everything as often as you need to-even daily-because fungus can
grow on anything that is not clean.
Trying to do it the easy way by putting oil on the rag will definitely not
work. Oil is a treat for a fungus. It makes him so happy that he multiplies by
NOT'S WEAPON.A A
H" nwl THAT ? DRY CLOTH" 1 n
He likes oil and dirty things. What he doesn't like is any area that gets rubbed
down often with a dry cloth and he will not hang around a place like that.
If some of your cupola electrical equipment is not working right, be sure the
power is OFF, and then make this fast eyeball check before you holler for help:
working connected connectors
right? and in the '4 or terminals
Right place? Z grounded
f or broken?
Once you make sure your trouble is not in any of the above, yell real loud
for the experts. Most times, though, you can locate the trouble yourself.
Your turret mechanic can help with problems.
O 1 Cable from the elevation screwjack
handle can be worn out or it can be so ca with xc sl can
slack it snags on the azimuth lock. snugged up at the first clamp. Be sure
to lea'C enough slack for frec operation
of the scre" jack handle.
A replacement cable is ordered as
.%wntch. control screw lack handle ass).
FSN 100(5-399-666-. as Ihsted on page
2.42-i of TM 9-2350-22-4-2iP IJan 66).
Metal parts of the connectors have \
to be wiped clean of dirt or fungus. a-
Rubber parts of the connectors need a
thin film of rubber grease that comes
with the electrical repair kit, or you
can order it as FSN 5970-224-5277,
insulating compound, electrical, tube, '1L
small (2 oz) MIL-I-8660. You'll find .
it in Fed Cat C5970-IL-A (Feb 67) on KEEP THE METAL PARTS WIPED (LEAN AND DRY.
WHERE IT RUBS ON 0 1
THE EDGE OF THE
HANDLE! 50, PROTECT
IT WITH TAPE! JUST A COUPLE
Wiring from the machine gun solenoid gets pinched on the underside of
the cupola roof when the gun is fully depressed. WRONG
Run the wire under the solenoid in-
stead of on top of it. To do this you
have to have the late model solenoid
FSN 1005-630-0901 (P/N 8724532) t. _L s
because it has the wire guard that
makes this possible. If you need to order RIGHT
it, it's on page 2-557 of your -25P TM. -
To protect the solenoid against water and fungus, first make sure its surface
is absolutely clean and free from oil and then coat it lightly with the varnish
listed on page 42 of Fed Cat C8000-IL-A (Jan 66). FSN 8010-616-7677 gets you
the 1 gal can and FSN 8010-174-9655 the 5 gal can.
(Note: This is an anti-fungus varnish (MIL- R n
V-173) and gives off a poisonous vapor as
it is being applied. So-o-o, keep the cupola
door open, breathe lightly for the few seconds
it takes you to apply it and keep it off your
If some joker has put an extra lead I JUST CAN'T
between the machine gun and the coil RESIST THE
cord, disconnect it. It is not necessary TEMPTATION!
V'M GONNA ADD
SCupola slip ring and brush
boards may need cleaning. (ote: When luing, make sure l excess
Rotate the cupola until you have one se is removed fro inner lok gear
raversing gear box, maia gear and mating
gently with a soft, clean, cloth. Now do the sh boards or terminal oar c give
the same with the other one. you a poor eledricl comedian.)
(Note: These brushes are as fragile as butterfly wings and you have to keep that in mind
all the time you're dealing them. I you break just one of the 7 brushes the whole harness has
to be replaced. Wipe with your doth in the direction of the brushes, not crosswise or you'll
break 'em for sre.) CROCUS
If, after cleaning, you can see that the NURSE!
brushes are burned, worn, or otherwise ee *
not fit for service, call your support to a
replace 'em. 0
It might be that your support me-
chanic can save the brushes by lightly
burnishing them with crocus cloth. This
is a surgical-type operation that he has
been trained for, so let him do it.
y You clean the terminal boards by
S.1 gently working a soft cloth between
r the ring and turret body at the cupola
opening while a buddy slowly rotates
Oise& h Wdd Wc h ih dh d Impql
a mun .mula d Irgsia o
After you have cleaned the terminal boards, eyeball them while your trusty
buddy rotates the cupola. (You might find a flashlight will help.) Look for worn
or damaged places on the rings and between the rings.
If the terminal boards seem too badly beat up, get your support to crocus 'em
or replace 'em.
When support replaces brush boards or terminal boards, they will also check
all electrical harnesses in the cupola and replace any that need it.
4 Some harnesses in the cupola may be plain worn out.
If support does not check them, ask your company turret mechanic to help
you do it.
A harness that has been painted over WHAT ARE YOU DOING?
may have cracks in the paint where the 'CHUMP,:
harness has flexed. This kind of crack CECKIG FOR
is OK and should not be mistaken for CHUMPE CRACKS
a crack in the harness itself. IN HARNESS
Be sure to flex each harness before ,CLIMP.
you decide if it is OK or not.
If wires are exposed through the .."
insulation, replace the harness at once.
When you're putting a harness to-
gether, use the insulating compound on
the rubber parts of connectors but not '.*.:".
on the metal parts which are to be wi- .N "''T "
ped clean with a dry cloth. i-
ANbN(EEU;Ti OFF iMETIALI-
SBetter grounding needed between cupola body and cradle.
Your cupola machine gun will sometimes stutter and miss because of a
temporary "open" in the electrical ground which goes through the trunnion
For a reliable ground that will work all the time,
ask your talented company mechanic to make a ROUND
ground strap out of these parts that are listed in STRAP
TM 9-2350-224-25P (Tan 66):
He will attach terminal 7056705 to
the cradle bearing stud with one (or
maybe 2 if they are thin) 3/s"x16 nuts.
The other terminal 7056703 will be
fastened to the cradle by a screw that
is already there for mounting a peri-
scope linkage bracket.
WITH A GOOD GROUND YOU'LL
GET OFF EVERY ROUND.
BREAKS OF THE GAME
(HE WANTS TO KNOW DO WE HAVE A FUEL
^ INJECTORR SUPPLY COVER PUMP.
mdS^ V&D Al Hill-
There's nothing like being stuck in
the middle of nowhere with a vehicle
that's not going to move until you re-
place a part or two.
And that's just the spot you might
find yourself in with a 212-ton multi-
fuel truck if you don't take a look now
and again at the cover for the fuel in-
jector supply pump.
Loose engine mounts or loose
steering gear bolts or a combination
of these things can cause the head of
one of the bolts for the steering-gear-
housing cover to beat on the pump
cover. A steady diet of this battering
can bust the pump cover and this
means a loss of fuel pressure as the stuff
runs out of the break.
So check those engine mounts and
gear bolts if the pump cover looks like
it's taking a pasting. Loose? Tighten
'em. If tightening the mounts and bolts
doesn't help, ask your support people
to see if they can find out why the cov-
er's getting clobbered.
This is a senltd list of remnt pubs of
interest to organi~o ionol malnienance
permonf. The it i ompiled from r.-
crnt AG Didributiol Centrs BullWtins.
For comofeire detail DA Pom 310-4
(May 67) ond Ch 1 (Jul 67), TM', TBs,
Ic.; DA Pam 310-6 (Ju 67) and Ch I
(Ot 67), SC's and SM's; DA Pom 310-7
(Jul 67), MWO'.
TM 3-1040-214-20P, C. Oct, Dis.
perSr. Riot Control Agent, Port, M3,
TM 5-2420-213-12, Aug. Tracor.
Wheeled. Indus, D, Cot Mdl 830MB.
IM 5-3431-211-15. C. Otd. Welding
Slt. Ar In.rt Gao, Air reduction
2351 0611. FSN 3431-079.-0488.
TM 5-3805-200-15. 2, Oct, Loader,
Scoop-typ. DEDo Clark 17A-M. F
3805-678-1735. Clork 175A-M23,
TM 5-4110-208-10, C1, Od. Rf0lg
Unit. 10.000 BTU. Arrmy Mdl SPE34,
TM 5-6100-215-4SC Sep. Generator
Set. DED, 100-KW. Con Disol 4115
1977, Budo DC O1OA3-CE. Joet MD
1001815-W. Slowort-Stoemnon $S-
100 WTZD. 15700 WTZO, 19100
TM 5-611tS-39-1 S C, Oct. Gen Set.
GED ]3W, OP. )ACK-4MV/1910D,
TM 5-6115-423-15, Aug, Load Bank,
0-30 KW, AC, Port. Skid Md. (ISun
Bel Corp GPT.3D-1. GPT.3D).
TM 9-1005-234-14P, Od. M7A3. M76
TM 9-1005-257-ESC Oct, XM8.
XMIEl Armaoment POD.
TM 9-1005-297-20P, Sop. Armarent
TM 9-2350-230-12, C2, Jul. M51,
15SMM Armd Reaor Vel
IM 94935-2150-1 P/4/, Aug, Nike-
Ho.c, Nile Ha rImp
TM 10-1110-201-14, (Corr Cy), Aug,
Drum. Fabric Collapsible, Liquid Fuel,
500 Gal Cop, (Nonvented).
TM 10-8340-211-13P, Aug. Gen Pur-
pose Tent, Small, Mad, Large.
TM 11-5s25-245-25P, Aug. AN/TIN-
25 Radio Beacon Set.
TM 11-5895-468-12, Aug, AN/TPX-44
TM 11-6625-847-12, Aug,
SM.442/GRC Radio Frequency
TM 11-6625-1698-15, Ocd. AN/URC-
10 Radio Se.
TM 21-300, Jul, Driver Tralinig (WV).
TM 55-2320-209-20-4, Aug.
M292/M292A1, Expanlible Van
MODIFICATION WORK ORDERS
MWO 9-1005-249-20/1, Oct, M16,
MWO 9-1015-230-30/2, Oct, M108
MWO 9-1240-293-30/2, Oct. M107
Gun, M1 10 Howilzer.
MWO 9-1240-293-40/1, Cl, Oct,
M107 Gun. M1I0 Howilrzr.
MWO 9-2320-222-20/2, Oct. MOE
Med Full-Tracked Recovery Veh.
MWO 9-2320-223-20/1, Oct. MI16
SC 3431-97-CL-E02, Sop, Welding Set,
Arc, Inert Goa Shielded.
SC 4610-97-CL-E07, Sep. Water Puri-
fication Equip Seli 3.000 GPH, Base
SC 4933-95-CL-AO8, Sep, Tool Kit,
Small Arms Repairmano Light Weight
SC 5180-97-CL-E42, Aug, Air Assaoul
Engr Squad Tool Set.
SC 5180-99-CL-A07, Sop, Engine,
Power Train Repairman's Tool Kt.
SC 5420-97-CL-l 1. Sep, Fixed Bridge,
Highrwy, 601 Smipermanent.
SC 6545-B-CL-AO2, Aug. Mod Equip
Sol. Arb Train, ZI, 27 Patient, No. I
SC 6545-8-CL-A03, Aug, Mod Equip
Set, Amb Train, ZI, 30 Patient, No. 2
SC 6675-97-CL-E24, Sop. Surveying
Set, Precise leveling, For Spirit Leveling
of Second-Order Accuracy.
SC 6675-97-CL-E26, Sep. Surveying
Seo. Trlong Recon Spec.
Al 750-5, Sop. Moain Operations.
DA CIr 310-46. Od. Pinpoint Dlrt Fed
and DA Sup Cot....
DA Cir 750-23, Od, Sp.ecl Oper In.
itrudlons for Multi-fuel Engines, 2%,
DA Form 12-25, Aug, Requiremenl for
Tech Pubs for Army Mob Sup, Const,
Environmental. Elc Gen. aoll, Marine
and Anphib Equip.
LO 3-1040-224-12, Aug. Compressor,
Reclp, Power Driven., PlHom Thrower,
3H CFM. AN-M4. Stewart-Warner
LO 3-1040-244-12, Aug. Compressor,
Recip, Power Driven, Flam. Thrower,
31 CFM. AN.M4, StewartlWorner
LO 5-3820-236-12, Jul. Earth Auger,
Skid Mid. GED, Texoma, Inc. Mdl
LO 5.6115-424-12, Ju, Gen Set.
DED, 60 KW, AC, Skid Midi (Alli*-
Chalmen Mdl 3500).
LO 9-1005-297-12, Sop, TAT-102A
SB 740-1440-92-005, Odt, NIke.Heroc
TB 10-7300-201-20, Od, Iemoval of
Hord-Water Scale from Kitchen Equip.
TB 750-1, OCt, Aviation electronic
Ze"400a 6 4 PD444
When you're using TB 11-6625-692- Better beg or borrow a copy of DA
15/1 (Jan 67) to calibrate test and Circular 310-51 (Nov 67), if you don't
measuring equipment, use TB 11-6625- have it. There are important changes on
692-15/2 (Jun 66) along with it how and when to order a resupply of
they're a team. pubs from the AG Publication Centers.
I LEMME i
KEPT ME WORKING
ORDER... MR. DIRT
IrVE HAD A PRETTY
THE TROOPS HAVE
SIN SOME PRETTY
NOT ONLY THAT... BUT LOOK NOTICE HOW MUP ANP SAND
AT THESE fAPIATORS AN [ CHOKE UP THE BRAKE
3R(Lu.S!. LINING AND DRUMS.
LOOSE DUST GOING THRU CLOGGED
ENGINE AIR FILTER GRINS UP
FINE ENGINE PARTS BY SETTING
INTO OIL AND MAKING IT AN
EXCELLENT!! I FOLLOWED MR.
YOU MUST PIRT...SOON I
HAVE DESTROYED WAS BURNING
MORE EQUIPMENT OUT EVERY
THAN THE SHOOTING METAL PART OR
ENEMY! TUBE IN
;FK 6~oNS (neknownsf9
'A HERE, POST
To your equipment
the enemy's dirt,
lack-of-lube, lotsa heat
-they can hurt!
So lube often
... keep em clean,
what we mean!!
To all conditions
you must be alert!
IF YOU WANT TO DISPLAY THIS CENTERPIECE ON YOUR BULLETIN BOARD, OPEN STAPLES, LIFT IT OUT AND PIN IT UP.
_ ._. ______;_.
ARE ALLOWED TO
O FREQUENT FAUWRE TO )
My LUBRICATE THE WAY IT
JOB W SAYS IN THE LO,..ESPEClALLY
EASY, UNDER "EXTREME*
Mmu me -
01L WAS ALLOWED TO
GET LOW IN THE CRANKCASE.
THIS STARVE THE BEARINGS
THIS CAUSED LOTS OF LOVELY
DAMAGE TO BEARINGS,
vHEEL5 AND HUBS.'
ITS MR. ISPIFFERENCE.
OUR L-OOKOUT MAN!
CONNIE JUST LEAVE OPENING UNPER.
IHIT THE AREA I ANPBAGGEP ENCLOSURES
ANP SHE'S TELLING ANP SIPE PANELS SHUT SO
THE BOS WHAT AIR CAN CIRCULATE
IN PLACES LIKE CLEAN LUSE ANPI
SOUTHEAST ASIA PO FREQUENT USE OF IT
A LITTLE EXTRA LUBING, WILL DESTROY THE
ESPECIALLY ON WHEEL BIG ENEMIES... HEAT,
HEARINGS 'N'CHASSIS PIRT ANP LACK
POINTS. OF LUBE.
AWmp AS -me SUN ROSE. THAT
REMAINED OF THE
-rE) REALLY PI5AFEAR-
OR.WLL THEYSH 1W, UP 1I9
ANOTHER ARM F'-' ONLY'
v',YUKNOW TNH A R5K
N' o low~-IR
SAFETY SOP FOR MINNIE
We've established an SOP to help prevent injury or death from accidental firing of
Minnie the Gun on the M21 subsystem. It won't stop accidental firing, but we haven't
had even a close call since adopting it ... even though we've had accidental firings
during hectic scramble-type missions.
Here's how it goes:
Just before landing, the co-pilot arms the system. Then he depresses the guns full
down vertically with the action switch on the sight. The trick is to keep the action
switch pressed down while turning the system RAPIDLY from the ARM to the. OFF
position. This'll keep the guns in the down position.
After the ship lands, the guns can be safetied (sofing sector removed, etc.), cleared,
unloaded, loaded and PM-ed and the crew can exit and enter safely.
The only potential danger spot is the couple of square feet directly under the gun
muzzles. If there is an accidental firing, the bullet will just dig holes in the ground.
Lt Douglas S. Rehwoldt
A Trp, 1/9, 1st Air Cav Div
(Ed Note-Real life-saving idea on soil-type ground. Wouldn't recommend
it, though, for hard-surfaced or rocky areas-bullet might ricochet, y'knou'.
This same procedure could be used by ground crews for M21's already on the
ground. The crew chief would have to start the engine to depress the guns,
If your Huey has the armament hydraulic control valve operated from an
overhead breaker instead of the OSA switch on the control panel, use this breaker
to get the guns to stay down.)
Hueybirds are ingenious, marvelous
machines of engineering knoa-how.
S Tooka htapof brainpower to figure ou
where to pur all those wires, buttons.
rubes, sw itches and make 'em work!
You're the PM expert that keeps the
parts doing their job and those birds
HE HOLE HOUS M NG
Every item in the hell hole takes a
fearsome beating from debris churned
up by downwash from those whirling
blades. Result-collective pitch and
cyclic hydraulic servos get gummed up
with sand and dust. The pilot fights
his chopper instead of Charlie!
You can't keep the junk from getting
into the hell hole, but regular PM will
keep it from homesteading.
Normally, it's a no-sweat deal to hose down the hell hole area. The
parts were made to take a lot of clean-up treatment. But if you're crew-
ing a boonie-based bird you may have to make do and these tips will help.
An old hand-pump fire extinguisher does a neat job, but a water-filled
portable fuel tanker and pump with 55-GPM flow does a better one. Drill
a hole in the stopper that fits the fuel tanker's 1-in hose and you'll have
pressure a-plenty. Water and P/D-680 solvent is the cleaner to use.
When you're checking the hell hole,
be on the lookout for oily build-up on
hydraulic lines, connections and fittings.
This could be a clue to a loose connec-
tion, stripped threads, a break, nick or
crack in the line.
Remember every takeoff, land-
ing, hover, or ground run-up throws a
googol of sand and dust into the hell
hole and the servos! It makes PM sense
to keep 'em clean, man, c-l-e-a-n!
HOKKS FO R AKS ORSEPAGE
That 2-piece squirrel cage air-inlet screen covering your Huey engine intake
bellmouth is designed to keep a snootful of gunk out of the turbine. Does a good
job, too, as long as it stays put and doesn't drop down onto that whirling short
That's when you get a mashed wire-mesh salad FOD-Z-A-P!
A little PM on screws, fasteners,
flanges and the wire screen could be
PM THESE FLANGE
the difference between a stay-put screen G
and a kaput machine.
Look for stripped threads on the
screws that hold the 3 section of the
ring assembly to the inlet ring. Eye the
wire cage for broken wires. Any holes SCR(
bigger than the coarse wire mesh and
the section gets the ole heave-ho.
Not all the screws are easy to reach, 'specially those on the Bravo and Charlie
models. It'll pay you to take off the side panel and clean out all the gook cram-
med between cage and panel. Check for loose screws -bikini tight is 'bout right!
But this 3 section won't be your
chief troublemaker. Nosir-e-e-e! Most
of your problems will be little ones-
8 Dzus fasteners. Four hold the quarter
section to the inlet screen and 4 hold
the 2 sections together.
Dzus fasteners wear out. They lose strength and tension, especially when
they're put in cockeyed! A PM tip--those holes on the quarter section and inlet
ring have to be lined up exactly, otherwise your Dzus loses and that quarter
section drops ... right onto your short shaft mixmaster!
No need to make like Bruiser the
Brute when hitching the quarter section
to its big brother. Just make sure that
you feel each Dzus seat itself when the
screw is turned. Holding the fastener DON'T FOUL UP
finger firm while using the screwdriver THE DZUS
will help you get it right, right.
Don't forget to eyeball the flanges on each section and the inlet ring for
broken or cracked welds. Anything amiss here means more downtime.
WELDS OK? 1 Checking the inlet screens each day
will stop the screen drop-but good.
If you're knuckle-busting where the
grass tends to fly or is as high as an
elephant's eye, you should check this
screen before each takeoff.
TAIL BOOM TIPS
Your Hues % rail boom's nor like a
salamander's ral-- hich grows back
if it's lost bhi act dent. B
Onl -i bolt. s asher. and nutr om- SNUG
binaticns hold the rail boom to the for.
ward fuselage and if one or mort buirs
are loose or lot,. jouet lust about
had it! 1S '--- F
2 d bel t h le nut./
After you c-a-r-e-f-u-l-l-y check
cracks, distortion, corrosion, and dam- 7 ONE NO
age, take a good look at each bolt. TWO.
First, be sure there's a washer under s
each bolt, and that the bolt threads 0 0
point aft. Second, if you can't see at
least one thread, better call support i
pronto. Same goes if you see more than I' ,
2 threads beyond the nut.
'Course you don't lay a torque wrench on those bolts, but when you know
something's wrong, the rules of the game say pass the word to your support
unit that the bolts need re-torquing.
E.ery rurbine-equipped Arms bird
dines and w hines best on .P--4. As long
as ,ou use this kind of go-go juice, hot-
end inspection. come at regular inter-
vals. depending on 'our brand of bird.
Maintenance record-keeping comes
It's when you use an alternate or emergency fuel that an extra entry is made
on DA Form 2408-13, Aircraft Maintenance and Inspection Record.
F'rinstance, your T53-L-9 or T53-L-9A equipped Bravo model gunship has
to guzzle some unleaded gasoline. No sweat-she'll go for broke! But your
bounty-hunting bird can run only 50 hours on this juice between 300-hour
hot-end inspections. If you use AVGAS you can only feed her enough to run 10
hours between special inspections.
Straight unleaded or leaded fuel or leaded fuel mixed with JP-4 plays hob
with turbine parts and could put your bird on the blink in a wink.
So-o-o-o, everytime you use an alternate or emergency fuel remember the
extra record-keeping and inspection that're due.
GRIP SEALS... WIPE, DON'T SNIPE!
NO FEELER GAGE
OR KNIFE BLADE
That's right, frantic mechanic! When
you're checking for oil drip-drip from
the main rotor grips on your Huey you
just want to wipe off the extra oil
around the grip seals.
Never use anything-like maybe a
feeler gage or knife blade-to rout
around the seal. Ruins 'em every time.
Gouges, cuts or scores in the seal will deadline your bird faster'n you can spot
a sniper. Making like a surgeon could take that bird out of circulation in a
Nothing goes around that grip seal but wipe rags, man. 'Course you model
Charlie mechanics skip this scene, right? Right!
Yessir-e-e, you're taking care of a complex and expensive piece of hardware.
Keeping that flapwing bird kitchen-clean and in tip-top condition is well nigh
impossible. But pulling a little PM every chance you get will help keep that bird
from coming unglued in the air.
AN ORDINARY PENCIL
ERASER WORKS LIKE
Up the elephant grass creek without ERASE CORROSION
a paddle-that's where you could be HERE...
if the two voltage regulators in your
Huey (UH-1) go on the blink.
Corrosion really goes to work on the "
regulator base male terminals and the
female spring tabs in the regulator
To get rid of corrosion on the 3 regu- HERE
lator prongs use an ordinary pencil TOO...
eraser... works like a charm. But don't
use a crocus cloth or emery paper be-
cause you'll remove the plating on the
To guard against future corrosion,
latch onto some insulating compound,
electrical, MIL-S-8660, and dab it on
the prongs (except at point of contact
with the spring tabs). The compound is non-corrosive to metals and you'll find
it listed in Fed Cat C5970-IL-A (1 Feb 67). FSN 5970-159-1598 will get you an
8-oz tube, FSN 5970-224-5277 a 2-oz tube... works wonders on cannon plugs,
connectors and terminals.
Try the eraser trick on the spring tabs in the regulator mounting base. If
they're badly corroded check with your support. They'll reverse the tabs for
you by drilling out the attaching rivets and unsoldering the terminal screw. The
tabs are reversed and put back with rivets, MS20470AD, and then the terminal
screw is resoldered. 'Course the tabs are then bent to make contact with the
Since a free flow of air helps head off corrosion, don't use the rubber backing
on the regulator mounting base.
Hold it-return that borrowed pencil, please!
CHINOOK (CH-47) MAINTENANCE TIPS...
That Chinook of )ours is a sophisti-
She does a first-rate job of hauling
troops, supplies and equipment. In ad-
dition to regular presenti.e mainte-
nance, tho, a little touch-up here and
there will keep her in the pink of
Talkin' about problem-solving field
repairs-the kind that can be OK'ed
by your commanding officer to save
time, moola and elbow grease.
SAVE THE BRAKE CYLINDERS
Take the hydraulic master brake
cylinder, P/N 114H105-6. Just because
fluid leaks down the side of the cylinder
and collects inside the cockpit nose
doesn't mean the cylinder is shot.
You're allowed a leakage rate of one
drop every 25 cycles of operation.
Grounding your bird and replacing a
perfectly good cylinder doesn't make
sense ... and it costs $$$! !
So, how do you soak up the leakage?
Latch onto a piece of syn- SAFETY
thetic sponge or felt that will CLAMP
not fall apart when soaked in MATR
hydraulic fluid and wrap it BRAKI
around the brake cylinder like YLINDER
so. You can secure it with lock
wire or a damp.
You can replace the mate-
rial, or dean it, from time to
time as it becomes soaked with
WIRE CHAFING FIX
If you're crewing an A Model have a look-see at the
area behind the center section instrument light control
on panel, P/N 114E2044. Could be the wire bundle is
chafing on the variable resistor control.
If so, cut out any chafed wires and butt splice in new ones. To head
off further damage to the wires add a /2-in spacer between the present
damp on the main wire bundle and the damp support bracket. Then the
wires won't contact the lighting rheostat.
SP N NAS43DD3-32
,/J. I FSN 5340-662-3098
CARGO HOOK FINGER SAVER
Beginning with aircraft, S/N 67-18484, a cargo hook
handle is being added to the cargo hook to aid in stow-
age and to prevent mutilated fingers. Since only factory-
fresh birds get the handle there won't be an MWO to
put it on your bird.
SWithoat th. handle ,-: I
hoft. AcAaidednit GRAB C
; proii of the hook. SYNCHRONIZING
-wnMl yoInis.hf in there sHAuT..
CudO put you on sid can:
l-firreall ; PUNCH HOLE FOR ,
'S: So-., aike sour- |10 SCREW
"se,,f nylon strap and 2)
seco it.to the hook
g with 2 srews lic 4"
*so..tholli do the IrMdL
A nickel cadmium battery pooping
out on you can be mighty aggravating,
especially if you're uppity-up in the air
or dealing with a one-shot missile or
on a radar mission.
Before bad-mouthing one of these
little beauties, though, think back to its
care and maintenance and see if its PM
was botched somewhere along the line.
Make a mental note of a couple or three
questions, like: L_
Did the battery gas ani
splash during charging?
Was the salt deposit
thick as cake icing, or
was it given the brush-off
Did all cells test out at
the set voltage (consider-
ing temperatures, pres-
sures and other battery
'IA to '/4 inch
above the plates
O'course, there's a batch of other
questions you could ask yourself, but
these'll shed light on how a juice-losing
nickel-cadmium battery gets that way.
Like, if you know the battery bub-
bled over during charge-either by
seeing it or finding a lot of white pow-
der on top-whisk the powder away,
pronto, with a nylon or fiber bristle
With the possibility of a large anouit of
electrolyte (KOH) seeping around every nook
and cranny of the cells and sides of the
battery box, replace the filler caps and flush
the tops of the cells with distilled or tap
rip the battery on its side with the bottom
raised to allow the water to drain off. Then,
thoroughly dry the battery. Air pressure helps.
-.. se, m,
Should the electrolyte spill-over be
too much for this simple clean-out
method, you might get an assist from
your support to get the cells removed
for a real house-cleaning wipe-off.
When you don't get an equal voltage
reading off each cell, don't push the
Just discharge the battery and re-
charge it a time or two until the voltage
readings are steady. If you've misplaced
the MX-1678/U resistor assembly, you
can hook up a 150-watt bulb to com-
plete the discharge. Should one cell
wind up weak or shot, get 'er replaced
before shooting the juice to 'er for peak
performance. A weak or worn-out cell
will drain the life out of the battery
quicker'n anything else.
Wait 3 hours after charging before
adding any solution-- and then make
it only distilled water.
When the second quarterly PM pe-
riod, or six months, rolls around, you
might have to dump the electrolyte and
replace it with a new solution of 31%
potassium hydroxide and 69% distilled
water by weight ... That is, if the spe-
cific gravity has dropped below 1.250.
If you flush and replace the KOH,
discharge and charge the battery 2 to
4 times for peak power put-out.
To protect those terminal contacts
from corrosion, coat 'em with a pro-
tective compound like FSN 8030-903-
Some taboos on taking care of those
nickel cadmium batteries to keep in
THEM ILET DIRT Oi SLTI TS
GANG U THE I BATERY.
PU' PM UNI YOU REA THT
dean the gas escape and vent-holes in the
filler caps or screws. Before installing or re-
installing filler caps, loosen the vent sleeve
by inserting a toothpick or paper dip inside
the sleeve and run it around the cap to free
the gasket before putting the cover back on
the battery cell.
;18" TO Y41
Gct one of those Xenon searchlights mounted on your M60-series tank or
Its 100-million candlepower can give you plenty of battlefield illumination
- what a fraulein would call gefechtsfeldbeleuchtung but not if it is kaput.
TM 11-6230-219-12 (Jul 67) was not kidding when it said you don't use the
overdrive for more than 15 seconds in any 5-min period. In fact, it is better for
your light if you can wait 10 minutes between "bursts" of overdrive.
Another thing that is ruining a lot of lights is pulling out on the overdrive
when you switch from one way of operation to another. You never need to do
The right way is to turn the mode selector switch without pulling out on
it. When going from BO to VIS wide position, the plunger must be depressed,
but you still do not pull out on the switch. That'll keep your light healthy and
ready to give you all its crazy 100,000,000 candles when you really need 'em.
Never never ... never!
No ... never test the 23-in Xenon
S searchlight's igniter by jumping a spark
HERE LIES SPEC 4 MKNIGHT from the high-voltage cable to the
tAND WO'S LEFT OF HIS XENON UGHT chassis of the searchlight.
...DIDNT TEST HIS IGNITER-g
.DIDN'T TEST HIS IGNTER Besides setting up a carbon track
AND THEY SHORTED EACH across the output of the igniter-mak-
find out what's on the other side ... of
'Cause there's a lotta electrical power
pulsating that searchlight's circuits
that'll put you in a blackout position,
So, fix a warning sign across your
mental matter that says:
Keep fingers off the igniter's high-
SI SAP I,
No. Many times no.
They may look like handles on the
front of your RT-246 and RT-524
receiver-transmitters, but they're not.
Anyway ... not until an MWO in the
works is applied to make 'em handles
But now they're guards-that's
what. And they project the knobs, con-
nectors and bhat-have-.ou on the front
panels of the rmo components of your
AN/ VRC-12 series radio set.
Pulling or lifting on the guards can
bust 'em. sure enough.
GIDDY-UP OL' PAINT L.
_- -q- MF-
Fr Spray paint -a real good deal, but
not in the hands of a guy who's not
supposed to use it around electronic
Take an AN / USM-50 oscilloscope as
one of many possible f'rinstances.
You're supposed to use a brush and ,
some gray paint to touch up the case for
the scope. When you use spray paint,
the stuff gets inside the vent holes and
louvers in the case. If the paint has a
metallic base, it can ruin things like
the marker generator chassis compo-
nents and also clog switches.
What about equipment you can re-
move from its case? Same thing. You're
supposed to use a brush. not spray,
when touching up.
HEAD OFF HANDSET HUSH
When you're packing up to pull out,
put away the AN/TRC-24 radio set's
Sure, that H-90/U hangs neat in its
cradle on the R-417 receiver when your
Track's standing still and steady. But,
A'U 01E on the go, that handset can be rocked
SAND PUI from its cradle and busted to uselessness.
ME AWAY' Just store it in the CY-1342 accessory
case and you'll keep it damage-free.
BRIGHTEN YOUR OUTLOOK
Are you getting glassy-eyed from staring into the
plotting board of your AN/TSQ-43 tactical imagery
Well, cheer up.
Change that AR-87A or -88A table's 60-watt clear -,I~l
bulb (FSN 6240-186-3254) with a 75-watt frosted
one (FSN 6240-268-3061). '
The frosted lamp, good for long periods of plot-
ting, is listed on page 48 of GSA catalog (Oct 67). -
However, both of 'em are getting added to TM
L PM FOR FILM PACK
Are you fixin' to flick a fast photo, using rapid processing film (Polaroid)?
Fine... but there's a point or two you should heed when using the Polaroid
land film holder #500 with your PH-47 or KE-12-series camera. These pointers
could head off damage to the holder.
After you've taken the picture and re-inserted the film packet to pull out for
Flip load-process lever to Pull film padck until it binds. Then, push lever to LOAD
PROCESS position. position, and remove packet.
This will help keep the inserted metal dip on the film packet from nipping
and chipping the processing rollers inside the film holder.
Another thing is that when the holder is not being used for awhile, or it's
being put away until the next picture taking time leave the load-process
lever in the LOAD position.
This'll take the tension off the spring and pressure off the rollers.
As the operator of an SB-86/P or SB22()/PT tele-
phone switchboard, I will:
Keep from twisting or
knotting the coil and answer
cords. I know this can break
Ease the plugs hack into
the switchboard. If I let 'em
,.-- fly back, they might bust a
,- :b signal lens or reel or pull the
plug loose from the jack.
RRAs!! -- Pull the cords by the plug
and not by the cord to keep
from breaking internal wiring.
-Think twice before play-
ing with switches. I know they
can take lots of use, but why
9 give 'em abuse?
Remove the BA-30 bat-
I series when the switchboard's
going to be out of action for a
time. I don't need anyone to tell
me that a leaking battery can
really mess up the works.
-'Not use the switchboard
as a table, coot-rack, coffee
stand or catchall.
--Make sure that non-
operators keep their mitts off
Sthe switchboard. I've seen what
a guy who's not in the know
can do to a piece of equipment.
"PEAR Some of the tools in your TK 105/G electronic
ABBY.." equipment tool kits, FSN 5180-610-8177, may not
be up to snuff.
You can get the defective tools replaced if you'll
~Was s hipped; C contract number; List of defective70406
Geas shipped; Contract number; List of defectiveo
Sactivr) [o which tools were shipped.
The contractor will replace all defective tools. No need to turn in the whole
kit if just a few of the tools are defective. Just send info on the ones that won't
do the job they're supposed to do.
Easy does it with those transmission cables for the AN/TCC-7 or -50
There's no point in yanking off the interconnecting cables so hard that you
goof up the pins.
Take time to loosen those wigs on the
This will break corrosion bind, and make for
The contractor will replace all defective tools. No need to turn in the whole
easy discount section. Never forcibly jam the connectors together.
oEyeball the pins to make sure they're lined
lThen bring them together carefully,
and-to make a good electrical con-
hen, reach for the connectorntthecble, section c tighten the butterfly nuts.
and remove. So-o-o-o, be real careful removing or
Pull straight out to prevent pin damage. connecting cables ... It'll pay off.
Pull straight out to prevent pin damage. rconnecting cables ... It'll pay off.
So you're the proud owner of a new AirCat whiz boat, and you'd like to
keep her just as ready to pounce as she is right now?
Well, no matter whether you're an old salt or a desert rat who never even
got his feet good and wet before, here're some things to watch for above all.
Water in gas conks aircraft-type en-
pretty fast those 180 horses just lay
down in the pasture and won't move.
So funnel and strain every drop of
S STRAIN your fuel. Use a chamois skin, and be
SITHAT sure to stop and wring it out (gently!)
SaFUEl when it gets dark with muddy H20.
---- -* "Try to con your POL people into
rigging a cover to keep sun off your
V 'MO, ABOUT fuel sock. Those black drums soak up
THIS FIX? heat from sunshine, then cool and suck
in wet air at night. So the less direct
sun, the less water in your gas.
Fill up your tanks as soon as you
come in from a runs too. That way
there's no space left for water-loaded
air. You oughta be able to get right at
30 gallons of 91/96 octane in each side
.,.ANP PON'T KIKCK
OR ROLL THEM AROUND
OR YOU'LL LOOSEN SCALE
ON THE INSIPE OF PRUM It's smart not to use over 3 of the
...LET IT SET A WHILE i way down in 55-gal fuel drums. Let
EFORE RAWING Fnobody roll 'em around and stir up
bottom sediment for at least a couple
hours before you draw gas.
Besides that, you'd better make an
Every day run-out of whatever water
has gotten in those self-sealing gas
bags. Your bottom drain-out fitting
does it easy but use an old rag to
swab out the boat.
Rinsing tanks with denatured alcohol to kill fungus every month isn't a
bad idea. You have to take the tanks out to do it completely, so be sure your
lines are tight afterward.
You've also got a pair of built-in
fuel system watchdogs. There are 2
strainers between the tanks and your
carburetor throat. They won't remove
water, but they do stop lint, rocks, and
S CLEAN BOTH OF THESE
OAILY EVERY 24 HOURS 1.
FEAN THE MAGNET One is on the bottom of your electric The diptick's right on the oil filler
FUEL PUMP fuel pump. Take a '.in box-end cap. Add oil A hen it gets a quart down.
,AIa rench ind turn the bottom nut 1 i left. Refills ake quarts Believe the
Clean the works with solsenr. naph- sign on the cap steady the red TM-
tha, or alcohol. Look close to see if the that 8 in the book is for airplnes. Any-
magnet has picked up any metal filings; hoo. check oil lesel before and after
GASKET if so, report, but fast. Then put the esers run.
When vnu turn the nut nut will tame a nnrr, hac-k like \no found them Lse But that's just half the story.
round strainer, a round black magnet, and i sour wrench to make sure, because it's
a gosket a tight fi.
Next. hase a look at the center rear
of sour carburetor Under that hex nut .I( E
opposite the fuel supply) line you'll find NET O
Abour four turns backs this little:
preirt out. After it's nashcd up. pur
it back snug.
\\hat's likely to trip \ou is, %ou get a batch of good clean fuel. and for 3
weekss \ou don't find a hair of crud in those filters. You get out of the habit
of cleaning them. then \'ham! You're socked with a load of gas that looks
like it'd been dredged from the bottom of Quan Lang Canal S how does
it feel to set nirh a dead engine in that Bo Dong swamp?
TH... i. E SUCK TRICK ..
You've got to be formal and check on lube. But you're luck) in having an ,
engine that's nor prissy over brands. Any good 50 weight nondetergent air-
r crafr oil is fine; in Beautiful Southeast Asia. changing it out every 30 hours t-
--- or so is smart.
S--- 56 '
U\\ BE STEERING GEAR 1 That steering gear gets lubed daily,
DAILY HERE... every day.
\ / Take the grease gun and give a shot
to the fitting under the left side of
S your seat where your steering stick
pivots. Then squirt once into the fitting
AND HE on the transom at the stern. Have
ON TRANSOM somebody work the stick back and forth
while you shoot the goo.
And now for the catch in your lube oil romance -
There's a fisful of sleee bearings and joints in that steering set-up that you
can't let ourself neglect. That means every place that metal rubs on metal,
swings on metal, or mates in a bolted joint that moves.
Take the ol' squirt can and get 5
drops on those dIeese bearings, pivots, LUBE EVERY
n PLACE THAT
and link point.. A smooth-working AL R
rudder is half the secret of Swamp ON METAL.
After sou'se lubed the fantail family, wipe up every drop you've spilled.
Oil sloshing around in your boat with water on the bottom could literally
break your neck. or cost .ou the help of that machine gunner and his friendly
pot.-shorter up front.
SLIPPED ON AN
SNIPER OIL-SLICK DECK.
NO FRYING PAN
Plenty of cool on that engine is your next big help for quick power when
it's got to come.
What keeps it cool? That cowling design and cleanliness zat simple.
THE TRICK IS
TO BE SURE
THE COWLING IS
So make it a daily check. Look that cowling over and feel it over. Eyeball each
and every bolt and nut along the joints, and test with fingers. Have a sharp eye
Then get at the braces. Look and COOLING FINS
feel there; make sure they're sound.
A look at the motor mount assembly
footing bolts on the hull braces is good
life insurance, too.
Now bend an eye at the cylinder
cooling fins. That's your first be-sure-
it's-clean bit. Oil, dirt, wiping rag
shreds, and such don't belong there.
USE AIR HOSE And before you choo-choo out of the
TO CLEAN station, make certain your oil cooler
SOIL (0COOLER radiator is clean. Grass, leaves, seeds
Soff marsh weeds and the like collect
there but don't let 'em stay. If you
can get to an air hose, blowing it out
from the back is a help. Then have a
gander to make sure the inlet and out-
let hoses are healthy.
THE REAL THING
So you're ready to go? Well, stand by for late word from the head shed -
there's been a change in starting these AirCats since the first models came out.
Here's how and do it in this order -
Turn Ignition (rack Throttle to about '4 Then push Starter button
switch ON, 9 0 OPEN I\O A and turn annine 5 or A revn-
Why so? Because you might get hydrostatic lock from excess oil in the
If you don't start within 15 seconds, take that finger off the starter switch
and let it rest 3 to 5 minutes otherwise you could get starter burn-up.
And if the engine should cough, kick, and not catch, let up off the starter
until all is still you could tear starting gears out kerbam.
Then turn off that electric fuel pump as soon as you're running. You might
need it for a quick start some busy day, and the engine-driven fuel pump is
meant for steady use.
Then eyeball your gages. You should WAH YOUR
get 25 PSI oil pressure inside a half 'GAGES
minute, and 55.to 65 PSI in a good
fast cruise. Idle at 550 RPM or so until
your cylinder head temperature reads
100C or so then you're off.
Use the fuel-tank selector valve to
take about equal amounts out of the
tanks- first one, then the other, unless
you've got a weight to make your boat
one-sided. But if you get in a fight, and
there's fuel in both tanks, turn the
selector valve pointer straight down--
that way you get gas from both tanks
and run less risk of sucking up guck SWITCH IN POSITION FOR BOTH TANKS
from a nearly-dry tank.
Leave nothing, but nothing, loose in the boat, and let nobody toss up any-
thing that could fly into that propeller. That's Disaster, big D. Make a unit SOP
for keeping spent brass from your front gun outa that prop, too, and see that
it's enforced. Box up tools and such and lash 'em down a fouled steering gear
could land you right in Charlie's lap. Same goes for people trying to stand up
in the boat while you run or fire across the boat-Nix, N-O!
SRemember, too, that heat can loosen
(HECK EXHAUST bolts and nuts, so make a daily check
NUTS & BOLTS DAllY on that exhaust muffler on each side of
the engine. It could come off and wham
that propeller. And if you do get a prop
break, chop that switch like lightning.
SThe engine could vibrate out or come
over on you.
Likewise, keep clear of boat wakes your own and other people's. Give
a little burst of throttle coming in, or that wave'll get you. You go nowhere
with a boatload of water.
If you get stymied, write U.S. Army Mobility Equipment Command, Surface
Equipment Division, Marine Equipment Branch. ATTN: AMSME-MSM, 4300
Goodfellow Blvd., St. Louis, Missouri 63120. Or phone if it's urgent 314-
FOR GROUNDING GENERATORS...
Shocks and gigs, because of no ground rods, can give
generator users fits.
Older power source TM's often didn't list ground
rods and such in the BIIL. But TM 5-766 (Jul 65) and
other safety regs say you have to have 'em. If they're
not on your BIIL, you still can find the pieces in Fed Cats
C5975-IL-A (May 67) and C6145-IL-A (Mar 66).
These expendable items are: Rod, ground, 9 ft, 3
sections, FSN 5975-642-8937; Clamp, electrical, FSN
5975-243-5861; Wire, No. 6 AWG, FSN 6145-189-6695
(by the foot, and you need 9 to 10 ft).
"EA Imergenc-:ey lo'iit just push
M BRGENC o eRUN gand atgo on.
When that generator won't start,
,it's iying to gi eyop. the word i's
.I'M TRZYi NG Tr tigO ito say C oing's haywire. 'So
TELL YOU SOMETHIN' h~ e 6.lbe have a look at tle
g, do-yiur PM .
HANDS OFF `on"- ddbr.. p that
HE N"-l i,..a .ned it re.l
THE PANIC pretythe real thiig
BUTTON! e.ir panic button's a.
A"._ .-1 one 'Idss yod..
..'-,. .: '
MINE DETECTOR PIN-UP
I Dr,,ing PL1)213E99"". MCN 6665-
S 00.0006. and one Shore Handle. Eng. /
"Drawng 13211E4055. MCN 6665-
yOlKSThne pins in rhors oup mine dchaeor
ERE A nder he ekineral famiu other FN 66 rpl5-
nicni to end such trouble.
STHAT 6 PN 6826. include Spd Coupling Kin FN 6665-
SOL/ SALLOWEP 03-O"ll. Ore ".n I CFN 6665966-
w -11 O .OU IN BOO-2006. and all made Short MDM or TEn-
GET OIrTTA Theoe nem parries i mine director Wered
HERE iAx! under the general family of FSN 666 5-
THAT 6oB00- PIN 8Si 26i'). including Polan f FSN 6665-
'OU SWALLOWEP 96oi.90" I). Oreg-on (FiN 6605 966-
wILL P0 .U IN! 9U-21. and all made bs MDM or Tex-
iron Companies in the ceries cosered
If you're shepherding a transistorized by TM 5-6665-202-15 (Jun 64).
mine detector, best pin down pin Mark your requisition for each item
trouble in your quick-disconnect han- "Hand Process," and have it sent
die coupling. ATTN: AMSME-SIC.
Federal and Army Supply Catalog except those published for fuels, chemi-
Management Data Lists-ML's (some calls, clothing and textiles, medical and
of the old timers call 'em "price lists") subsistence commodities.
are taking on a new look. .. 16.. 17...
Effective I Mar 68 the ML's will be yp P! ALL HIERE
labeled C-ML-A's (for Catalog-Man-
agement Data List-Army). They list all
items used by the Army, including those r
managed by DSA /GSA. The big change
is that the stock numbers will be in Your outfit must have all 17 volumes
FIN sequence, and they will be in only or the set won't do you any good. Your
17 volumes. lhe C-ML-A will super- outfit's order for these Management
sede all existing DA and Federal Man- Data Lists on DA Form 12-21 will bring
agement Data List supply catalogs you the set on pin-point distribution.
ANOTHER HOSE NEEDED
You've got the 15-GPM liquid fuel filter/separator, FSN 4330-051-0666,
and the hand-operated piston type dispensing pump assembly, FSN 4930-276-
0087. But you still have one question how do they go together?
Before you can use them, you'll need another 20-ft length of hose. You
order Hose Assembly w/couplings, FSN 4720-914-2205, Part No. 310410-1,
Mfrs Code 60145. You find it listed on page 6 of TM 10-4930-201-23P (Apr 63).
After you get the hose assembly, remove the nozzle from the pump assem-
bly and put it on the hose assembly. Now connect the pump assembly and the
hose assembly to the filter/separator.
ORPER THIS HOSE
Dear Editor, ,
Here's how we prevent singed eyebrows
while lighting the immersion heater. We
use 4 nuts and bolts, a mirror (FSN 7310-
379-2530) from the M1937 fire unit, and
2 strips of sheet metal.
We mounted the mirror beside the air
conditioning-heating pipe so that we could
look into the burner compartment to see if
there was a flame.
Field Mess Operations
Subsistence & Food Service Dept Cn 7E E
Quartermaster School, Ft Lee, Va. TI E.
(Ed Note-A good idea.)
FIELD BAKERY EQUIPMENT
Maintenance and lubing's a must for
your equipment, and your field bakery
equipment's no exception. It needs
cleaning, lubing, inspecting, and ad-
justing at scheduled times just like your
Using the right lube is one way to
steer clear of trouble. You should use
Mineral oil, light, NF, FSN 6505-240-
6328, (5 gal), on the surfaces of the
dough dividing machine that come in
direct contact with the dough. This oil
is tasteless and odorless. You'll find it
listed in Fed Cat C6500-CB15 (Aug
Never substitute salad oil for the
mineral oil. The salad oil will gum up
USE THE RIGHT LUBE
There are two lubes you can use on
the oven conveyor chains. Use either
Grease, graphite, FSN 9150-735-1800,
(1 lb can), or Lubricating oil, colloidal
graphite, FSN 9150-227-0183, (1 pt
can). They're listed in Fed Cat C9100-
IL(Sep 67). It's especially important to
keep those chains lubed if you're using
your bakery equipment where the tem-
perature is high.
If you can't get the graphite grease
or oil, then you can use a "do it your-
self" lube by combining 1 part of
powdered graphite with 8 parts of
THEY SUM ANP
BINP THE CHAINS!
DA Cir 310-44 (5 Nov 67), The
Army Authorization Documents System
(TAADS), covers the latest SOP on han-
dling a Modification Table of Organiza-
tion Equipment (MTOE) and TDA and
MTDA. The circular sets up step-by-step
guidance on preparing and submitting
MTOE's, provides sample formats, flow
charts the works. It's to be used along
with AR 310-31, AR 310-34 and AR
310-49; it supersedes some parts of
20 7e imt
When you're loading a magazine for
your M16A1 rifle, remember, it takes 20
cartridges no more, no less. So, forget
what you read in PS 181 about using
only 18 or 19 rounds. And also scratch
that bit on page 48 of the same issue
about looking for a lubing guide on
pages 18-20. A misplaced line of type,
If oa~ 0%
Hot off the press TM 750-116 It's new TF 9-3852 on "Mainte-
(Nov 67), Organizational Maintenance nance Procedure, M151 Series %1-Ton
Procedures For Purging And Charging Truck." The M151 maintenance policy is
Of Fire Control Instruments. Not only "different," and that's why this new film
does it authorize using units to doctor is called "The System Works, Mac, But
their instruments right where the prob- You Got To Work The System." It's at
lem exists, but also tells you how and your nearest Audio-Visual Communica-
authorizes you the stuff to do it with. tions Center.
uld Yo Y Lf on
r. Codto 1#7 up rquidpre
A.E GOT A
I ^ ^ B (%AINTENANCE
Make sure you use the new FSN when
ordering filter elements for those twin
secondary and final fuel filters mounted
on the left side of your truck's multifuel
engine. For each filter you need Parts
Kit, Fuel Filter Element, FSN 2910-758-
9556. This goes for the 5-ton truck with
the LDS 465-1A engine and also for the
2'/2-ton truck with either the LDS 427-2
or LD 465-1 engine. The new FSN re-
places FSN 2815-758-9556 in Ch 2 (Apr
67) to TM 9-2320-211-20P. And it re-
places FSN 2910-710-9267 in TM 9-
2320-209-20P (Jan 65).
i hWO 7 ex Daaow
In case you missed it, MWO 9-1015-
230-30/2 (6 Oct 67) will take care of
any problems you've been having with
premature firing and binding of the
main sliding shaft on your M108 105-
MM SP howitzer. Get it installed .
HIGH ENOUGH SO
AIR GETS IN...