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take a clothes
NAOMI M. JOHNSON
Kansas Extension Specialist in
Clothing and Textiles
be well dressed
Life's getting more compli-
cated all the time, isn't it?
Growing up has its compensa-
tions, but you may think it has
some real pains, too. And now
someone's given you a booklet
to read about being well
dressed. Before you decide
this is one pain you can dis-
pense with, give an eye, will
you? It could help you land
a date with the sharpest gal in
school, get a job where you
want it, and mark you as a
fellow who knows what's
Yes, we know you have
plenty to think about now-
school work, athletics, spare-
time activities. And Mom or
Big Brother may be more than
willing to choose all your
clothes and stand by with an-
swers to, "What shall I wear
tonight?" But sooner or later
the time will come when
you're on your own. Then
you'll be the original fish out
of water-feeling and maybe
looking like one, too. It will
be easier to get this clothes
business figured now than
when you're getting started at
school or a new job away from
what you wear
Still wondering if it's worth the effort? On the
surface it sounds a little shallow to say that clothes
make the man. But when you think about it, seems
like some sense. After all, 90 percent of what
people see of you is your clothing. If your suit
sags, your shirt is rumpled or soiled, or your shoes
defy polishing, it's natural for people to assume
you're careless about other details of your life.
On the other hand, if you are well groomed and
well put together, it adds that you have things
pretty well figured all the way around.
Your clothes tell lots, whenever people see you.
It's a mistake to think a few appearances in a neat
outfit will cover for many other sloppy ones. The
best basic rule is to stay out of clothes that tell
about many days' wearing between washings or
cleaning. If your clothes are clean, you have a
tremendous advantage in this business of looking
well, whatever you're doing.
Now no normal man sits around figuring what
shade of blue makes his physique look best, or
discussing the latest styles in Paris. But lots of
smart ones make it a point to know what types of
clothes are correct to wear in specific situations,
and how to buy clothes that fit and look well on
them. And that's what we'd like to help you start
thinking about now.
be smart, man-
Somehow it seems natural to think that being
well dressed costs lots of money. Well, of course
it doesn't cost much to spend all your time in jeans
and T-shirts, but "saving" that way is false econ-
omy if it cuts your chances for getting around
with your crowd, or gives people the impression
you're in favor of taking the easy way out of re-
sponsibility. And it really doesn't take a part
interest in Fort Knox to get the clothes you need,
if you play it smart and PLAN your moves.
Essentially, this planning business is just figur-
ing out what you do and what kind of clothes you
need to do them in. Then on top of that it's being
conscious enough of colors to buy things that look
well with the things you already have. You'll
have that cinched when you find yourself admir-
ing a shirt or pair of slacks, then automatically
picturing them with what's in your closet at home.
Also, planning is a question of timing. If you
haven't stopped growing, it wouldn't be very
bright to sink a lot of money into a custom-made
suit. Later on, you can buy a nutshell wardrobe
of suit and accessories that go with it, then plan
additions as you have the money. For instance,
a dark blue suit with black shoes, medium blue
socks and tie would take you almost any place you
would want to go. Then you could add other ties
-gray, red-white pin stripe, deep yellow, perhaps.
And a colored shirt or two in soft yellow,
light gray, light blue. For the more informal occa-
sions, you could plan a pair of gray flannel slacks,
to wear with the blue coat, gray shirt, and blue
tie. Then could come a pair of dark blue suede
As time goes on, you could find a tweed sport
coat that would go with both the blue and gray
slacks. Pretty soon, you'll be really set. And since
you've planned your wardrobe over a period of
time, it won't have reduced your billfold to nothing
but a photo album.
As long as you're changing size frequently, the
best thing to do is avoid spending large sums on
any one item of clothing. Mass-produced suits
offered at reasonable prices can look plenty sharp,
if you shop long enough to find a good fit and
fabric. One of these suits will take you to dress
occasions, and you will still have enough money
to buy slacks, perhaps a sport coat too, for the
amount you could have paid for an expensive suit.
We don't suggest that you settle for inferior mer-
chandise, but just don't go overboard on expensive
clothes while you can wear them for such a short
gray with yellow;
try it, fellow
Figuring out color combinations can be lots of fun, since men's
clothing is made in such a wide range of colors these days. You'll
want to stick to one suit while you're changing sizes so often. This
should probably be dark blue, charcoal, or black,
because these colors are best for really dressy
affairs (dances, graduation, etc.), but look fine for d
other occasions, too.
For those spit-and-polish times, nothing beats
teaming your dark suit with dark tie and socks,
and black dress oxfords. When the air's a little
easier, you could wear the same suit with a colored
shirt, or one with tiny pin checks or stripes. Your
tie could be a little more dashing, too.
Pretty soon you'll know without thinking what
colors you feel best in, and find yourself sticking
to them. That's smart, even if the salesman says
"they" are all wearing some other particular color.
If you know from past experience that's not a
good color for you, leave it alone and let "them"
While you're getting your color sense sharpened,
it wouldn't hurt to notice magazine advertise-
ments of men's clothing done in color. Those ads
cost the manufacturers plenty, and they work
hard to get good color combinations for them.
In general, you can follow a rule of contrast,
in light and dark. That is, if you're a blond,
chances are that you will look best in dark suits
and jackets. Fellows with dark coloring can carry
off the light suits to better advantage than you.
Also, a light-dark combination in shirt and trousers
is usually the best looking. Of course you shouldn't
make yourself a slave to such a rule, but it may
help guide your first choices.
Here are some suggested color combinations
that may help you off to a good start:
BLUE SUITS: harmonizing blues, grays, ma-
Example: Deep blue suit with white shirt,
maroon tie and socks; silver cuff links and
tie clasp set with blue stones. yit;
GRAY SUITS: almost any color, espe-
cially soft yellows, blues, greens, har-
monizing grays. Jewel red makes a
nice accent color.
Example: Mint green shirt worn with
medium gray flannel suit. Black tie
and shoes, and black socks with small
green figure. Cuff links and tie clasp
of charcoal-gray pearl set in silver
BROWN SUITS: Tan, cream, some yel-
lows, greens, harmonizing browns.
Example: Dark brown gabardine suit
with cream button-collar shirt. Me-
dium brown socks and tie with small
green and cream design, dark brown
Along with different colors, you'll become
aware of different patterns and fabric finishes.
They won't puzzle you if you remember not
to combine two very unsimilar patterns (as
striped trousers with a checked shirt), or dif-
ferent fabric types (as a flannel with soft,
fuzzy finish and a gabardine with a hard,
think of style
The style of your clothes makes a differ-
ence in your appearance, too. Even shirt col-
lars are varied for individual differences.
Short-necked, broad-faced fellows usually
find a collar with long points gives the illu-
sion of a longer face, and men with thin faces
and long necks may find shorter points or
rounded collars best for them. Button-down
collars flatter men with broad or medium
A tall, thin man looks shorter and fuller in
rough-textured tweeds, or in contrasting
jacket-trouser combinations, such as a glen
plaid jacket and flannel trousers. Used in
good taste, substantial areas of bright colors
add weight to the figure.
A short fellow needs up and down lines
to give an illusion of more height. He should
not wear much contrast of color between
jacket and trousers so that he will not seem
"cut in half." Smooth-textured fabrics (covert,
gabardine) are best for him.
before you're fit
No matter how well you've chosen color,
pattern, and style, your clothes can miss the
mark if you don't buy things that fit correctly.
Here are some general rules
of fitting to know and look
Jacket Length: One guide
is for the bottom edge of the
jacket to be on a line nearly
even with your knuckles as
your arms hang at your sides
naturally. There is a trend at
the present for jacket lengths
to be slightly longer, reaching
to the second joints of your
fingers. When purchasing
your jacket, inquire from your
clothier regarding correct coat
Jacket Details: At least one-
fourth inch of your shirt collar
should show at the back of
the neck, and from one-fourth
to three-fourths of an inch of
cuff should show at your
The collar should not gap
away from the neck at the
back, but lie close to your
Sleeves set for easy arm
swing prevent wrinkling and
binding, and let you reach
without dragging the body of
Look for sleeves that are
wider at the top and taper to a
narrow cuff for the slim look.
Armholes should be full
enough for comfort, but not so
full that the jacket hikes up
when you raise your arms.
Lapels should lie flat against
Trousers Length: Trousers
should hang straight in back,
with a slight break in the front
crease. There is a trend now
for this length to be a trifle
the difference is in fit
When you're trying on a
garment, stand and sit natu-
rally in it. If you have perfect
posture only at fitting, your
clothes will look wrong from
their first wearing. And don't
buy a suit or pair of trousers
without trying them on with
your wallet and other essen-
tials in the pockets. They
make a difference in fit.
And speaking of good pos-
ture, it's mightily important.
There's nothing good looking
about a sunken chest, round
shoulders, or protruding waist-
line. The old rule you learned
in grade school still holds-
Stand tall, sit tall, and hold
your head up.
learn to cope
By now you've invested a lot of
time in planning what kind of
clothes to buy and learning about
colors and styles. It would be a shame to lose out in this
dressing game, but you still could-by not being well
groomed. Just as this is the most important deciding factor
in your appearance, it's also the easiest and least expensive.
Shaving whenever there's a reason can be a pain, but it's
time well spent. Anyone who sees a fellow who needs a
shave automatically thinks of him as a little careless. And
nothing can make your clothes look less attractive than to
have them topped off with a stubble, or a light growth of
fuzz that may not seem worth shaving.
The same goes for haircuts. It's poor economy to wait for
a haircut until the dog catcher is eyeing you, then get such
a short one that you catch cold from exposure. That way
you look really good only about a week. Even if it seems to
cost quite a lot, it is smart to get more frequent trims. Or
you could invest in a pair of clippers and have someone give
you trims at home.
Of course you know about the pitfalls waiting for you if
you don't brush your teeth at least twice a day. And the
deodorant manufacturers have a reason to stay in business,
Hands need care, too. There's never an excuse for finger-
nails to stay dirty or grow too long. For stubborn dirt on
your hands, a small hand brush helps. And if they get
chapped and sore in the winter, a druggist can recommend
soothing lotions and ointments to help.
If you're having trouble with acne, you don't need to be
told it's a problem that's hard to eliminate. Your doctor may
be able to prescribe treatment and diet to help. The best
way to help a mild case is to wash your face thoroughly
three times a day, avoid tampering with sore spots, and go
easy on foods heavy in grease and chocolate. Seems like
little encouragement, but the trouble will go away naturally
as you approach the twenties.
Shampoos are good for the spirit, and don't harm your hair
any, either. Don't ever let a case of dandruff show its angry
snow. If frequent shampoos don't get rid of it, get a prep-
aration to eliminate it.
To put it briefly, keep clean all over, all the time.
It's wise .
1A- L Ai~
You'll find yourself in trouble if you buy clothes
without knowing your correct size unless you try
them on. In any case, you should know what to
ask for when you go into a store. Since not all
garments are perfectly uniform in size, you will
still need to try them on to check for a good fit,
but you'll at least know where to start from, sav-
ing much time and poor purchasing. Below are
some pointers to help you find your size in differ-
ent items of clothing.
Trousers, Shorts: Measure around your beltline
with a tape measure. That number is your first
half of a size combination for trousers. The second
number is the number of inches from the crotch
to the bottom inside edge of a pair of trousers that
are the correct length. Thus, a fellow who wears
32-34 measures 32 around his middle, and 34 down
the inside seam of his trousers.
Coats, Suits, Underwear: You'll have at least a
good taking-off point if you know your chest
measurement, by which these garments are sized.
Shirts: Shirt sizes have two numbers. Measure
around your neck at the collar line for the first
one. Or, measure a well-fitting collar from the
center of the top button to the center of the match-
ing buttonhole. For the sleeve length hold your
arm straight out from your body, but slightly
flexed. Then have someone measure from the
center of the seam at the base of the neck yoke
and out along the outer arm to the wrist.
Socks: Measure the foot of a well-fitting sock
from the point of the toe to the end of the heel.
The number is your size, in non-stretching socks.
And while you're at it, get socks long enough to
come above your trouser cuff when you sit down.
Bare leg doesn't go with long pants. In general
sock sizes correspond with the shoe sizes as below:
. to know your size
Gloves: Place tape measure around knuckles
with the fist closed. The number of inches is your
Hats: Measure the circumference of your head
where a hat normally rests. Check with the chart
Circumference of Head
Shoes: Have your foot measured at a reputable
shoe store, both for length and width. Or, look
inside a well fitting pair of shoes. There probably
is a series of numbers, letters or both inside.
How to read shoe sizes and widths:
-If, for example, you see 71/B the number
represents the shoe size and is followed by a
letter indicating the width.
-If you see 60. A zero follows the key nu-
meral in full sizes, and the figure 5 in half
sizes. For example, 65 means size 6/2.
-Width is indicated by using numbers or
1 A 5 E
2 B 6 EE
For example: 060 means 6AA
265 means 62B
Width is also indicated by N (narrow), M
(medium), or W (wide).
best route .
Since buying a suit represents a sizeable outlay
of money, and has quite a few pitfalls, we're going
to look more closely at the things to remember
when you start looking for one. After you absorb
all the information you can find on selecting a
suit, you'll know more about what to look for
when you go shopping.
You can find good, wearable suits for moderate
sums of money, if you know little points of quality
to look for. Without too much effort, you can
learn what kind of cloth is best for different kinds
of wear; how suits of different grades are made
and how materials and workmanship affect values;
what points to check when looking at suits and
what questions to ask about the qualities that can't
be seen; how to judge fit, so important to the
service and satisfaction you can get from a suit.
find out what fibers and
materials are all about
the kinds of wool you'll find
The label of any wool suit will tell you whether
it is "wool," "reprocessed wool," or "re-used" wool.
To protect the consumer and prevent misrepre-
sentation, Congress in 1939 enacted the Wool
Products Labeling Act. This law requires that a
label stating a fiber content of percentages must
be firmly attached to any product containing wool.
It further requires that the label must not be
removed before the product is delivered to the
consumer. Facts on the tag refer only to the outer
cloth, not to linings or materials that make up the
foundation of the coat front.
Wool classification is limited to the wool fibers
being used for the first time in the complete manu-
facture of a wool product. Cloth labeled "wool"-
"all-wool" or "100 percent wool" is made from
new fibers or fibers reclaimed from manufacturers'
clippings of knit goods. The wool in suitings is
. to a good suit
likely to be fleece wool from sheep. Other fibers
classified as wool by the Act and used in suitings
are mohair, cashmere, and alpaca. "Virgin Wool"
applies only to fibers never before spun into yarn.
The Act does not require that it be labeled in any
way except as "wool"; a fabric labeled as "Virgin
Wool" may or may not be better than one labeled
"wool." The Wool Products Labeling Act does
not define Virgin Wool. The definition "Virgin
Wool" has been established by the Federal Trade
Reprocessed wool describes fibers produced
from new materials-manufacturers' clippings and
mill ends. Reprocessing usually breaks and
shortens the fibers, but suitings made from them
may give good wear. Usually they cost less than
those from new fibers.
Re-used wool is of fibers reclaimed from dis-
carded clothing, blankets, and the like. Articles
are cleaned and graded before being re-used. Be-
cause use and the reclaiming process break and
weaken the fibers, they should usually be blended
with other strong fibers. The label will tell you
of any such combinations.
worsted and woolen suitings
The two classes of wool suitings are worsted
(pronounced woo'sted) and woolen. Examples of
worsted suitings are serge, gabardine, sharkskin,
and unfinished worsteds. Typical of woolen suit-
ings are tweed, homespun, and flannel.
Worsted suitings are generally close-woven,
hard-finished, smooth, and supple. Crumple a
piece in your hand; it will feel alive and springy,
and will not hold wrinkles. Worsteds wear well,
but those without nap, such as serge and gabar-
dine, become shiny with wear and cleaning.
In worsted yarns, the fibers are combed to take
out the short fibers and make the longer ones lie
parallel. Fibers are then twisted into a yarn that
is even, fine, and strong. Two or more single
strands (also called ply) may be twisted together,
making yarn that is even, strong, and firm.
Generally, woolen suitings have a soft finish and
are less firmly woven than worsteds so they neither
keep their shape nor press as well. On the other
hand, they do not wrinkle easily. Woolens can be
cheapened more easily with harsh, inferior fibers
than can worsted, so be careful when buying to
look at the cloth closely, feel it, and read the label
for fiber content.
If woolen yarns are not combed, they contain
both short and long fibers, which lie crisscrossed.
Most woolen yarns are loosely twisted. Some
woolen yarns are tightly twisted, and these make
man-made fibers you'll find
Rayon, acetate, nylon, Dacron, Dynel, Vicara
and Acrilan are man-made fibers being used more
in suitings. Experience is showing these fibers
generally are best when blended with each other
or with natural fibers such as wool, mohair, silk,
flax, or cotton.
Rayon and acetate are widely used together in
summer suitings. Both fibers are inexpensive but
need wrinkle resistant finishes for good service.
The newer man-made fibers are used mainly in
blends, many of which are still experimental. Re-
search is still in progress to determine the best use
of each of these fibers and to find ways of eliminat-
ing roughing up of the fiber, piling, glazing, and
static electricity. Research will in time find out
how much of any one fiber must be used in certain
blends to give desired results.
how to determine quality
Now that you know something about the outer
fabric of wool suits, there are check-points of
quality to look for.
look at the coat lining
Firm twill-weave rayon gives better service than
plain weaves or coarse, loosely woven twill. Ask
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if it is pre-shrunk. If not, the lining may draw up
with cleaning and spoil the shape and fit of your
suit. If the lining is not colorfast to cleaning and
perspiration, the lining may be damaged and your
In coats: Silesia is the name of the familiar
twilled cotton used in coat pockets of good-quality
suits. It is soft, lightweight, closely woven-made
to take the rub and pull that pockets have to take.
In low-quality suits, a sleazy plain-woven cotton,
crisp and slick with sizing (stiffening), is used.
Crush it in your hand and notice the starchy feel.
The sizing comes out with cleaning and use, leav-
ing pockets limp and flimsy, so they soon wear out.
In trousers: The best material for both pockets
and facings in trousers is closely woven cotton
twill-all cotton and no sizing, thicker and more
leathery feeling than the silesia used in coats.
Lower-grade trousers have coarsely woven pocket-
ing filled with starch to make it look better. It
feels crisp and wrinkles readily. All of the sizing
comes out in cleaning.
ask about materials you can't see
Coat front: The materials inside a coat front
are actually the very foundation of it. Though
you don't see the materials, you need to find out
about them to know how the appearance of the
suit will last. To get a fair idea of how to judge
the quality of this hidden material, grasp the coat
front of a suit you know is high-grade and pull
your closed hand down over it. It will feel light-
weight, and soft, not stiff. The front will spring
back into shape without a wrinkle when you let go.
While you still remember the feel of this high-
grade suit, examine one you know will be of poor
quality. The front will feel thick, bulky, and crisp.
When you let go, you can feel the wrinkles left
in the inside material. When you get the feel of
these two extremes, you can learn to judge in-
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Collar interlining: In good suits, interlin-
ings of collars are made of firm linen that
does not lose its body. To cut production
costs, cotton cloth sized and dyed to look like
linen is used in the lower grades. Cotton
interlinings soften with wear and cleaning,
so the collar won't set up to the neck. When
you buy a suit, roll a corner of the collar up
and forward. If the interlining is linen, the
corner will flip back into place; if sized cot-
ton, it will turn back slowly.
Shoulder padding: In a high-grade suit,
shoulder padding is fine, soft cotton. In a
low-grade suit, coarse lumpy cotton or paper
padding is used. You can feel the difference.
Pads in a good suit fit smoothly and do not
exaggerate the shoulders. In a low-grade suit
shoulders feel stiff and look abnormally wide.
look for marks of good workmanship
Matching of pattern: One big difference be-
tween high- and low-grade suits is in match-
ing stripes and plaids. In the best suits the
cloth is cut so that the pattern matches pre-
cisely. In low-grade suits patterns are
matched in only one direction, and not always
with exactness. Good pattern matching
doesn't increase the wear of a suit, but makes
a big difference in its appearance. When
looking for suits of moderate cost, you'll
probably do better in suits with no pattern
in the fabric to match.
The particular places to look for accurate
matching are the center back seam of coat,
side seams, armholes, where the edge of collar
rolls over and meets coat in back, front clos-
ing, pocket opening, and collar notch.
Lining: The way the lining has been put
in the coat is a point to notice. In best-quality
suits the lining is smoothly fitted and finely
stitched by hand. The lower edge of the coat
is bound and fastened over the lining. A
small pleat for give is left along the lower
edge of the lining. C -
Linings in poor-quality suits are not /a
smoothly fitted. The machine stitching is
coarse and often does not match the lining in 1W /
color. No allowances are made for give,
which could lead to torn linings.
Buttonholes: Look for neat, strong button-
holes. They should have a bar on the end
toward the side seam, for strength.
Piecing: Look to see if the crotch has been
pieced. This is done to save fabric, so is found
on low-price suits. If you think the suit war-
rants buying after considering all factors, at
least be certain the piecing is neatly done,
and not bulky.
be particular about the fit
A suit must fit well to wear and look its
best. When you buy, take time to notice all
details. Try on the whole suit. Look at the
front, sides, and back. Put on the coat and
take it off yourself, without the salesman's
help-there's a difference. With the coat but-
toned, watch as you raise and bend your
arms, stoop, and move about. Sit down and 0
see how the suit looks and feels. Walk with
your natural stride to see if the trousers are
cut for easy walking.
Be wary of salesmen's assurances that a
coat much too large can be altered easily for
you. More often than not, the coat never
looks quite right if it's been altered a great
Suits of materials containing 50 percent or
more of Dacron or Orlon will, if they have
been properly cut, feel larger in certain places
than those of wool in corresponding sizes.
This is necessary for comfort. Unlike wool,
these fibers do not give, so must be cut larger. Suits of man-made
fibers may feel large through the shoulders, at the elbows, about the
armholes, and in the crotch and seat of trousers.
check this bit .
-Sets well with soft, but firm, unbroken shoulder line from neck to
-Hangs straight, front and back, from shoulders to lower edge with
no unsightly wrinkles. Small vertical folds for shoulder and arm
action should not be considered wrinkles.
-Collar sets close to the neck at back and sides with one-half inch
or more of the shirt collar showing.
-Coat has an easy look, and it does not look too tight or feel too
tight when it is buttoned.
-The waist is shaped only slightly.
-Coat long enough to cover seat of trousers-length proportionate
to a man's height.
-Skirt of coat fits about hips easily and smoothly with no flare.
-Lapels roll neatly as the V-line holds close to the chest.
-Armholes fit easily, the arms can be raised without lifting the coat
-Sleeves are one-fourth to one-half inch shorter than shirt sleeves,
which should come to bend of wrist.
-Smooth, easy fit about waist and hips.
-Hang straight from waist, are creased with the grain of the goods,
both back and front. (This is easy to see if the suiting is coarsely
woven or striped.)
-Comfortable, smooth seat.
-Legs just long enough for slight break at instep. Deep breaks
make trousers look too large. Also, trousers that are too long rub
the shoes in back, soon become soiled and worn.
S. .for best fit
know lots about knots
It's pretty easy to let someone else tie your ties for you,
but it's safer to learn how yourself. Then you won't ever
find yourself all alone without the slightest idea of what to
do. Why not practice the Windsor and four-in-hand knots,
the bow and half-Windsor, then decide which you like best?
If you have trouble keeping the short end of the tie out
of sight, try this: Attach a narrow tape to the under side of
the wide end for the small end to slip through.
study awhile about style
Consult your retailer, who, because of his long experience in
buying, knows merchandise and style. Look at merchandise in
windows and read magazines
printed for boys and men to
help you know style trends in
When shopping you will
find examples of these and
other styles. Each hat looks
well with a certain type of
clothes. Select yours to go
with your wardrobe.
Homburg Tyrolean U
dressy casual wear
You can reshape the crown
and vary your appearance.
1. Single crease
2. Pinched front
3. Telescope or pork-pie
Shoes are available in an al-
most limitless variety of styles.
A few of the popular types are.
1. Winged tip
3. Straight-tipped bal
4. Slip-on casual
5. Moccasin-type blucher
The slip-on moccasin-type
shoes are manufactured to
be used with sport wear. The
other types of shoes are for
dressier occasions and with "
your dress-up clothes.
know basic types of shoes and designs
Oxford (bal, blucher, brogue) is a low shoe,
usually with three or more eyelets. A bal is a
closed throat oxford. Blucher is an open throat
oxford. Brogue is a heavy oxford with heavy
stitching or punchings.
Toes can be plain, straight tip, wing tip, and
medallion. Plain is unbroken by ornamentation of
any kind. Tip is extra leather at the toe. Straight
tip is a tip that doesn't extend as far back. Wing
tip is a tip with a pointed center and curving lines
extending back on either side of shoe.
Medallion term refers to the perforated design
at the tip of the toe.
Moccasin style is noted by a raised vamp seam
parallel to the edge of the shoe. There are mocca-
sin slip-ons, or moccasin shoes which are oxfords
with a moccasin toe design.
Four well known collar and lapel styles are
illustrated to show you style details.
Notched collar Bal or convertible collar
Peak collar Shawl collar
handkerchiefs for lookout points
Those folded handkerchiefs with a straight
folded edge are for the chest pocket of your suit
coat. Some handkerchiefs are white, some are
styled to match your tie color, and others come in
related colors, but not necessarily the same design.
The television fold, very popular at this time,
often has an embroidered design about one-third
of the way from one end and along one side. Some
embroidered designs along the fold are geometric
or conventional. When folded and tucked into
your suit coat pocket the embroidered design ac-
cents the horizontal line of the jacket pocket. This
draws your attention to this "lookout point" on
your suit. Very often the embroidered designs are
done in two colors. Design colors are usually se-
lected to blend with your suit or socks.
Your functional handkerchief, which you tuck into your pants
pocket, comes in white or white with color. Initials and plaid
borders add interest. This handkerchief is color cued to your suit.
shorts-snug or loose?
Shorts are made of either woven or
knitted fabrics. They are found in solid d/L-
color, embossed fabric, novelty prints, and
woven checks and plaids. Bright, gay, -
colorful fabrics may be used for the boxer
shorts. White is the most popular color of
The boxer type, a slip-on with an elastic
waistband, is a replica of the boxer's trunks.
Special attention is given to the cut on the
back for adequate comfort.
Knitted briefs with elasticized waist-
bands are popular now. There are many
shorts styled from knitted fabrics. Thev
may be made of cotton, nylon, or blends of
fibers knitted together. The general fa-
vorite is cotton. Knitted fabrics, plain or .
printed, may also be styled in boxer shorts.
socks for style
Socks are chosen for the clothes and
shoe company they will keep. Fashions in/
men's clothes offer changes from season to
For dress wear, plain knit or rib socks
usually look best. For sport or casual wear,
wool or bulky socks are naturals for
grained leather shoes and heavier tweed
suits. With a check or shadow plaid suit,
you'll be well dressed in a solid color or
simple knitted pattern. Argyles or dia-
mond patterns go best with solid colored
slacks or tweeds of a quiet pattern.
Conventional length socks are styled .
from solid reserved colors to strong pat- A t -
terns. Argyles look best when they are
related in color to your suit or tie. Style
at present is toward the diamond shaped
argyle in rather subdued tones in bulk
knits. Most socks are cotton.
Maybe you're getting tired of us talking so much
about the time you'll be stranded without your
Chief Advisor and Emergency Assistant. Well,
we don't want anything so alarming to happen to
you, but we'd like to set you up so you needn't
panic in any pinch.
two big helps
Learning the ins and outs of two subjects will
help you mightily. Consider carefully before re-
jecting our suggestion to know a little about:
Whole books have been written about stain re-
moval, and you'd never want to go overboard on
the subject. Just having a better-than-hazy idea
of what to do when something's got to be done
remember these two things:
On greasy stains (oils, butter, grease, etc.),
use a commercial spot remover, available
in any drug or department store.
On nongreasy stains (fruit juices, blood,
etc.), use cold, clear water.
a little "how-to"
Test first. Always test water or any chemical
stain remover on a sample of the cloth or on a
hidden part of the garment (seam or hem) to be
sure it will not change the color. You may be just
as well off with the stain as a faded spot.
Use cold water. If the stain is not greasy,
first try to remove it with cold water. Hot water
sets many stains and makes them harder to remove.
Place a pad of clean cloth (a clean blotter works,
too) underneath the stain, with the stain face down.
To sponge, use a soft cloth, dampen it with cold
water, and cover with a layer of dry cloth so that
it is not too moist. Then sponge the stain with
light, brushing motions, working from outside of
stain to the center. Spread the moisture into the
cloth around stain to keep a ring from forming.
first rule .
. .. keep cool
The trick is to spread, or "feather-out" the liquid
around the stain until there is no definite edge
when the material dries.
If the stain is greasy: To sponge a grease spot,
lay the stained material, wrong side up, on a pad
of soft cloth. Apply the remover to the back of
the cloth, so that the stain is washed from the
material without having to pass through it. Sponge
with a clean, soft lintless cloth. Dip the cloth in
the liquid and wring out most of the moisture.
Sponge with light, brushing motions, working from
the outside of the spot to the center.
Work rapidly and use the solvent sparingly. It
is better to apply the solvent several times quickly
than to apply it once and leave it on for a long
time. Avoid rings by spreading the cleaning fluid
around the stain and at the same time blowing
lightly on the spot to dry it quickly.
This may work, too: Absorbent powders-chalk,
talcum, and corn starch-work on light, freshly-
made stains such as grease spots or splatters of
salad oil. Also, such powders brush off readily
and are safe to use on all materials. This method
is not always successful, especially if the stain is
very large or has become set or dry.
To remove a stain with an absorbent powder,
lay the stained article on a table and sprinkle a
layer of the powder over the stain. Spread the
powder around, and when it becomes gummy,
shake or brush it off. Repeat this several times or
until the stain disappears.
to iron out your troubles
A steam iron can be a mighty good investment
for a fellow. Lots of times trousers don't need
cleaning, but you have to send them to a shop just
to get them sharpened up again. With a steam
iron, you can do it yourself-quick as scat, and a
lot cheaper, too.
You could freshen up shirts, too, after a first
wearing, so that you could get more wear out of
them before sending them out.
ytriw~- ^irf K.'act-~
So if you'll be going to school, or somewhere
else where your Ironing Board Chief won't be,
think about getting a steam iron to take with you,
and practice using it before you leave.
don't gum up the works
If you get chewing gum on your clothing, try
holding a piece of ice on the gum until it gets very
brittle from the cold. Then quickly scrape and
rub the hardened gum out of the cloth.
who's got the button?
Buttons have a way of popping off at the worst
possible times, so you'd be smart to have Mom
cue you in on how to sew them on yourself.
If a cuff link breaks, see if you can find a couple
of paper clips around the place. They can be
twisted into very respectable links in an emer-
If a zipper sticks, don't force it ahead, but try to
back up. Then rub a bar of soap over the tracks,
and try again. Or perhaps there's a hidden thread
caught on the under side. In any event, investi-
gate before you try strong-arm tactics.
Someone slept in your trousers, or it at least
looks like it. Turn on the hot water in the bath-
tub, hang them in the bathroom, and close the
door and window. The steam will loosen the
wrinkles. Let them dry awhile before wearing.
Your French cuffs are dingy after several hours'
wearing, and still have several hours of duty yet.
Turn them under, replace the links, and you're set.
A cuff rips out of your trousers. Reach for the
cellulose tape, attach the loose ends with it. This
should last for the duration of the wearing.
If we may be so dull, we must put in a plug for
taking good care of your clothes. At least get the
habit of polishing your shoes often, brushing your
clothes free of dust and lint, keeping them clean.
And always hang your clothes up immediately
after taking them off. Now that shouldn't be too
you're in the know
When you select your clothes, does the clerk use words you don't
know? Do you know what the words on the labels mean?
So you'll be in the know, here are some of the terms used for
Argyle-Multicolored diamond pattern.
Balbriggan-A flat knit cotton underwear fabric.
Barrel Cuff-Single attached shirt cuff on shirt with button closures.
Camel's Hair-Soft, wool-like texture, varies from light tan to brown-
ish black. Used alone or combined with wool.
Cashmere-Fabric made from Cashmere goats used in all types of
clothing and sportswear.
French Cuff-Double turned-back cuff attached to shirt worn with
Check-Pattern in squares of any size, woven or printed, resembling
Hound's Tooth Check-Small irregular design of broken check.
Shepherd Check-Small even, dark and white pattern.
Casual Clothes-Designed for easy, informal wear of sports or semi-
Dress Clothes-Clothes required by custom or etiquette for certain
occasions or time of day.
School Clothes-Clothes accepted for wear in your school.
Sports Clothes-Wearing apparel of two classifications:
(1) Active sports clothes to be worn by those taking part in that
(2) Spectator sports clothes or any simple tailored ones suitable
Fibers-There are two classifications of textile fibers. Natural fibers
are from plant and animal sources (Examples-wool, silk, cotton,
and linen). Man-made fibers are those that are manufactured by
various chemical processes (Example-rayon, acetate, Vicara,
nylon, Dacron, Orlon, Acrilan, Arnel, Creslan, Verel, Darlan, and
we've one last word to be heard
You're the only person who can decide what kind of clothes you
like best, and there's plenty of room for individuality in this dressing
If you have clothes that are right for the activities you have, that
make you feel good about your appearance, and that haven't cost
so much that some member of the family has had to sacrifice his
share for you, you're on the right track. And you'll stay on it for
the rest of your well-dressed life.
A reprint of Kansas Extension Service Circular 270
COOPERATIVE EXTENSION WORK IN AGRICULTURE AND HOME ECONOMICS
(Acts of May 8 and June 30, 1914)
Agricultural Extension Service, University of Florida,
Florida State University and United States Department of Agriculture, Cooperating
M. 0. Watkins, Director
The publications in this collection do
not reflect current scientific knowledge
or recommendations. These texts
represent the historic publishing
record of the Institute for Food and
Agricultural Sciences and should be
used only to trace the historic work of
the Institute and its staff. Current IFAS
research may be found on the
Electronic Data Information Source
site maintained by the Florida
Cooperative Extension Service.
Copyright 2005, Board of Trustees, University