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SAMUEL PROCTOR ORAL HISTORY PROGRAM at
the University of Florida.
St. Lucie Tape t /7
W,F. Richards
September 21, 1967
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We meet the third Thursday night of each month, here at the cafeteria
and we're so glad to have you anytime you can come. Now we'll have
the reading of the minutes of the last Thursday's meeting.
I'm substituting for our secretary who is ill tonight. The regular
monthly meeting of the St. Lucie Historical Society was held at the
Trade Winds Cafeteria, June the fifteenth, 1967, at six p.m. with
thirty four visitors and members present. Mr. Samuel Waters, second
vice-president presided. The minutes of the previous meeting were
read and approved. Before introducing the speaker, Mrs. O.C. Peterson
spoke about the importance of our American heritage. She then introduced
Miss Carolyn Adams and presented her with a check in the amount of
fifteen dollars from the Florida Historical Society for her third prize
essay in a state wide competition. Miss Adams then read from her original
notes her prize wi::nming essay entitled "The Great Disaster of 1928".
The treasurer's report was given by Mrs. Emerson. Mr. Richards moved
that a committee be appointed to draft and send to Mrs. Stuart Crawford
a resolution of sympathy and sorrow, was seconded by Mr. Gay carried,
The committee appointed was Mr. Hellier, Miss Emerson and Mr Richards.
There being no further business the meeting adjourned at 7:30pm. Mr.
Larman's secretary. This is the resolution that was sent to Mrs. Crawford.
Fort Pierce, Florida, June the sixteenth, 1967. was the passing of Billy
Crawford, our good friend, the long time member of the St. Lucie
Historical Society at. its regular meeting June the fifteenth unanimously
voted that the undersigned committee prepare a resolution of sympathy
and sorrow delivering same to Mrs. Crawford and direction that a copy be
St. Lucie Tape 2 /7'
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spread upon the minutes of the society. Therefore be it resolved that
the members of this society fell a great loss at tha passing of this
beloved member. Billy Crawfore. He had not passed on life's highwat
the stone that marks tha highest point. Being weary for a moment he
played down by the wayside, using his burden for a pillow he fell into
the dreamless sleep that kissedkdown his eyelids still. While yet in
love with life and raptured with world he passed through silence and
pathetic dust. He loved tha beautiful and was with color and form and
music touched to tears. He sided with the weak, the poor, the wrong and
1 ovingly gave alms. With loyal heart and purest hands he faithfully
discharged all public trust. Billy was a great lover of flowers. He added
to the sum of human joy and with everyone to whom he did some loving
service to bring a blossom to his grave. He would sleep tonight beneath
the wilderness of flowers. The record of a generous life lack
of lying around the memory of our dead and every sweet and unselfish act
is now perfumed flowers. Frank, candid and sincere, he practiced what he
preached and looked with holy eyes (ipon the failing and mistakes of men.
He believed in the power of kindness and t with divine sympathy and
hideous gulf that separated the fallen from the pure. From his heavenly
home Billy can look back with affection to his home on earth, sympathetically
submitted to Walter R. Hellier.,Allie H. Emmerson and W.F. Richards. I
therefore trust to this as a part of our minutes.
You have heard the reading of the minutes. ARe there any objections
or corrections? If not. they will stand approved as read. And I know
everyone will be in accord with the resolution the committee has brought
forward. Do we have any unfinished business? Reports from any
committees? Do we have any new business? If not we're evidently ready
St. Lucie Tape B2 17
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for the program so I'll ask the program chairman to take over at this
time.
Thank you, Mr. President. I didn't intend to take any time on the
introduction of this speaker because it just so happens I've known him
all his life and if I started out telling you what I know about him
it wouldn't be so good. But without any further adieu I'm going to
present to you W. F. ___ Richards, who's going to tell you the
story of the old house of refuge and anything else he thinks about
while he's talking. come forth.
Well, if I'd have known when Danny asked me way last summer to be
the first speaker on the, for the fall, and I'd had a look at the
crowd, I think I'd have told him no. But that's the way this world
stands so I'm here to tell you a little bit about the old house of
refuge. upsidedown, well, here I go. Early history
of the Indian River has a refuge and coast guard station number 206.
Can you all hear me? All in the late sixties and early seventies the
shipping interest along the lower east coast of Florida was having too
many wrecks. And the government decided they had to do something about
it. They didn't have any place, when they had these wrecks, the people
that were ship wrecked, why they had no place to go so they built these
houses. United States decided to build five houses of reguge. The contract-
was signed with contractor Albert Baxdale tolbuild five houses of refuge
starting May 26, 1875. They were built and finished in 1876. The government
paying off the contractor September the fourth, 1876 for the five
houses. The following were the keepers of the Indian house of refuge as
near as I can, with the log book I have here, that, as .I can tell who they
St. Lucie Tape 1/7/N
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were. In 1876 the first keeper was John Huston. In 1884, that
was quite a period there, the second keeper there was the Bell family.
They head over there and stayed a while and if you have ever read Mrs.
Bell's history of Fort Pierce you will find out that she was over there.
In 1887 the third keeper was Henry S. Archinbaul. In 1895, that's the
year I was born, the fourth keeper was Barry W. Jerome. In 1896 the
fifth keeper was Harry Hardy and he stayed there quite a while. I remember
him tying down to a down the river. Not way down but
where Andy Tucker lives. That's where he used to dock his boat when he'd
come from the house of refuge and that's where his folkk lived. That's
quite a few years ago. The sixth keeper in 1912, now he stayed there
from 1896 to 1912 according to the record. The sixth keeper was Bryan
Dolly. He was the keeper when over at the coast guards when war was
declared April the sixth 1917 and continued as keeper through the
war. After the war it went back to the status of the house of refuge
Indian River in 1919, and was closed in the years from 1925 to near
as I can estimate to when World War II was declared December the seventh.
1941. The amphibious forces came in and all the property on the north and
south beaches was taken over by the amphibious forces and there, at one time
there was over thirty thousand men all on the beach. It's not very
crowded over there now. After the war the old house of refuge was taken
down and they renamed the sight Pepper Park. They had a big celebration
and Senator Claude Pepper was the guest speaker for the occasion. The
one know best to us was built on the sight at the old Indian River Inlet
on the south side of the inlet wych we now know as Pepper Park. This is
where all the picnic tables and benches and outdoor grills are. The
oldhouse of refuge was a little past the middle of the row of picnic
St. Lucie Tape 18= /7L
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tables towares the northern section. And if you go there to this day
you will find some tall old coconut trees and those were the ones that
ms there when the old house was up there. The old house of refuge was
right on the edge of the beach. Now this will get you. We could walk
off the front porch onto the beach. All the land east of the present
A-1A highway had been built up since the line listed in the coast guard
station April the sixteenth, 1917. All of the land east of that road
there has been built up. We walked right up to the beach. I mean right
off the porch right on to the beach. When I look at it now. there
certainly has been erosion over there. But that was caused by the
inlet in the opening inlet that started that. This was the first
time that this station was ever manned by full strength. Captain Bryan
Dolly was a keeper when the war was declared and they put this
bank under the coastguard. The first full crew to sea service was as
following: Captain Bryan Dolly, Edward Davis, Dan Hines., Lawrence
Bauling, Felix Papal and myself. Now this crew Felix Papal transferred
to the coast guard part of Tampa and was lost at sea close to the English
Channel. His place was taken by Tom Crew. Later they added another
man, Sylvester Jenkins. At the end of Lawrence Bauling. and my enlistment
we transferred to the navy reserveand were assigned to the
navy yard as signal instructors. At this time I'm the only surviving
member the first crew that manned the coast guard station of 206,
which really makes a person stop and think about what has gone before
him. It really makes you stop and think While I was stationed up
at the coast guard station, Captain Dolly showed us aboard where the
wreck was, and later where the cannons and anchors around town
came from. At low tide I could just keep my head above the water while
k --- -- i--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
St. Lucie Tape #2 /7/
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standing on one of the anchors. Later, after the war a crew of us young
folks tried to raise one of the cannons. Lewis Jones, I know some of
you know him, he's not here tonight, but a lot of you know him. dove
down and tied a rope around the cannon and about six of us, all getting
on the side of the boat, so when we went back to the port
side we could raise the cannon. So when the first brown swallow came in
we put the operation into effect, And all that happened was that the wave
came right over us and it did not raise the cannon at all. It only half
drowned us and fill the boat with water, That put an end to that. And
later and some other men were working for the city
put a small drag lighter on a barge and one calm day he went out and
went and raised the cannons. And the anchors in the cannons that you see
today in our park and at the present city hall on Avenue Eight are
from that ___ wreck. I can remember distinctly standing up on
that anchor, yet. While my enlistment at the coast guard station I had
to ride from the station to below where the present Jensen Beach is now,
which I had a key on the post __ I carried on my bike to punch
every low tide. We had two power Indian motor cycles and would
swap back and forth between these machines. I rode about twenty seven
thousand miles until I left the station,Consequently the man that followed
me in riding took that job. It was '__ s brother. I
can't think of his name right now. H e only rode three months and landed
in the hospital on his back and he couldn't take it. Old ____ went
on up to the navy yard. Some of the episodes that happened during my
year at the old 206. One night Ed Davis came off work from the watch
tower at eight pm o'clock. He came up to bed. We all had to sleep
upstairs in that old building. He was going to light a lamp. We didn't
t Lucie Tape L 116-
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have any electricity in our quarters. We told him he
because too bad. The reason was we had to put ten
large land crabs between his sheets. So he undressed and jumped
into bed. He let out an awful roar and he came, when he came in contact
with those crabs. He was so mad for a certain, while. He certainly
was. He stormed around there for longer than
But it was terrific. About a month later he said to me one morning, "Fanny,
I don't know if I was having a dream or not but it seemed so real. I thought
a snake crawled over my face. Will you go upstairs with me and help me
look." We moved everything in our quarters and no snake. But finally
there was a big chest up there. An immense thing. It was about five by
three by It was a big thing. As heavy as lead. We moved
that old chest, picked it up and put it out glided :a six foot coachwhip.
That's what went over his face that night. We killed that snake and
that ended that deal. One day while I was on watch in the tower, if you
don't think there's any rattle snakes over in the beach: listen to this.
One day while I was on watch in the tower a rattle snake came down on
the beach. I never had seen one down there before. I watched him try to
charm these little bugs. But he never could get them to hold still. You
know they claim that a snake can charm a bug and help make him hold still
and go and get him. But he could not make that, those bugs hold still.
After a while I went and got an old drawbridge shot gun and killed him.
He had fourteen rattles and was nearly seven feet long. He would go
right close to the edge of the ocean chasing those little bugs. So, you
don't know. This I remember very well. One night I started on my beach
patrol,a four miles by foot. Those little motor cycles were broke down
and when they were broke down we had to go four miles by foot. That was
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down way belong Lyons Park now, when we had a post there and
can come back. On this particular night the thermometer was registering
twenty seven degrees. It was awful cold, and I hated to start. But
I started between one and two in the morning to make that veach patrol.
I had only gone about two hundred yards from the station when I saw something
wiggling in the ocean. Well, I hadn't gotten my eyes accustomed to it
yet. I thought I was just seeing things out there. So I went out a
further and I saw this again. I ran out about knee deep in that cold
water and there was a large grouper drown by the cold water. I caught
two more and threw them up on the dry land. I ran on down to the place
where we had a key on a post, pressed the clock and hurried back to
arise the crew, which was just about daylight after I got through playing
round on the beach. At day light we telephoned to town and to the fishermen
and they came over and if I remember right, I think it was around twenty
barrels of fish that they picked up out of the ocean, on the beach that
morning that was good. There was nothing wrong with them. So, they
just made a nice haul. In the meantime we had four nice pompanos and
three permits. That's just, they look just like a poppano. You can't
hardly tell the difference. You'll see in just a minute. Cooked them for
sipper that night, for the crew helped clean the fish. The captain said
that the one that had helped could have the pompano. The rest could
atethe permits. Just as we sat down for supper the phone rang.
answered the phone. The party wanted to speak to Captain Dolly. While he
was up talking on theta in the next room, he couldn't see us, Tom Crews
switched his permit for that of Captain Dolly's pompano. He not knowing
this, when he came back in the room he kept telling us how good the pompano
was and he was sorry that the rest of them had to eat the permit. We could
St. Lucie Tape t 74
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hardly keep a straight face. It was terribly hard to keep a straight face
with that man sitting up there eating the permit and Tom eating his
pompano. I about ran out on him. What I had written I will tell you
that one day while we was on watch a big, large, hammer head shark
came in over on the beach. We didn't have no harpoon. I told one of
the boys up there, "You go up and get me an axe. and I'll show you how
to kill him." Well, I got up, I went out to meet Mr. Shark. And I was
standing out there in the water. As he came in, you know how they come
swimming along like this. And I had this axe up over my head and I
had my foot out like that and that old thing stuck his nose, oh, within'
a foot and a half of my foot and when he did I broke and run. They called
me chicken, but as the waves, another big wave was coming in and when it came
in, if he'd come in right where I was standing h6d have run over me.
So ever time he'd go out with the water, I run back up alongside of him
and I sunk that axe into his head right up to the handle. But he jut
took the axe and all right on into sea. It didn't bother him at all.
So Captain Dolly was going on liberty that day. We used to have twenty
four hour liberty every one of us over there. Come over to Fort Pierce
and ___ ___ All by boat There was no bridge. You used
to have to come up through and out that way. So he said he'd
buy us a harpoon. So he got back the next day at twelve and we rigged
this harpoon up. I was the lead man. I had the harpoon. And he saw
this big shark still swimming out there. We didn't know if it was the
same one. Because he kicked the axe out. I went out there
and I stuck him with that harpoon and the rope tightened up on that harpoon
and we hauled Mr. Shark ashore. He was over thirteen feet long. I don't
know what become of them, but I have some pictures, I did have some pictures
St. Lucie Tape Lt-/7
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Page 10
of me lying right beside it. And I look like a midget. Of course I
wasn't as heavy as I am now. I weighed a hundred andthirtyefive pounds
and I was really in shape those days, better than I am now. When we'd
ride these motor cycles down the beach Now
people think that beach is smooth but you'd have to stand right up on the
running board. You couldn't sit on the seat because it would just jar
you to pieces. You'd stand there and hang on until you sat down on the running
board so it wouldn't hurt you. I mean it wouldn't hurt you. You should see
what it done to a pal of my that I left riding and it put him in the hospital,
He got a medical discharge and never did come back, We'd ride these motor
cycles down and it's a long ways down there. Nearly, well not to the
but down below Jenson Pavilion. Than we turn around and come back and way
down on this point down here I'd always signal and at night put on the
coffee pot because I'd be home in just a few minutes. I'd be following my
track and I would come a flying. It wasn't all that easy. One day I went
down one night I went down there and I looked. I thought they turned
the German army. We're supposed to be looking for shipwrecked people-
spiels on the beach. I thought they turned loose the army on us. Down there
by mud creek all there's a big old mango, dead mango roots out there in
the ocean. They don't show. but this particular night after this heavy
northeaster- they were all uncovered. And I'd look at it all myself,
you know with the headlights of that little old Indian motorcycle and I
couldn't figure what I was running up on. But I got off that motorcycle
and I just had to lead it around and twist it back and forth and I f'tnally
got through it. It was about, I would say about three hundred yards of
it. And we got through. I got through rather and went on down to punch
the clock and when I got home I just followed my trail right on back. I
St. Lucie 7^ /7,4
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just slipped the clutch and got home. But what we would do with that old
motorcycle lots of time, we would get caught in those hight ground cells
and they'd just come right up sitting on the motorcycle and it wasn't
nothing about it. I got stuck down there two or three times and we had to
put the motorcycle up on the bank and come walking home. And we finally
I talked to another man riding a motorcycle. He says." Why don't you
use a palmetto fan?" I says, "A palmetto fan." He says. "Yeah." So next
time I got it good and wet. I went up on the beach and got me two nice
palmetto fans and I and I jammed them under that
id motorcycle and dried her off and right on down the road she went.
That's the way we done it after that. But the first time I went down in the
beach, Ed Davis was given the privilege or riding the motorcycle first.
He could not, he didn't get over a hundred yards from the beach and that
motorcycle throwed him on the ground so hard he didn't want no more to
do with it. He asked, the captain asked Dave Hines- he was next in
line, if Dave would drive it. He says, sure he could ride it, so he
tried. What happened? It threw him right over the handlebars and then he
didn't want no more of that motorcycle. Lawrence is on leave. The
captain says, "Danny, well, it's your time. He says, Can you ride it?"
I says, "Sure I can ride it." So I got on that thing and I started off
and I got along very good, you know, right. You know you think it's
smooth over there but you ride those things kind of dollies you know, so
(I'll take a little bit of water off of this) I was riding along making
those hills you know and it got down about to the old Eden pavilion. It's
gone down there, and we was riding along, past the __ pavilion. I
know Miss Bristol has been over there in pavilion years ago. A
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lot of you have. So anyway. I was getting riding on these hills you know
riding along, and I was doing pretty good. And when I got down to about,
below Jensen, where, not where the present pavilion was, but below that
they had one. I rode up on a hill and so help me there was a boat had
been wrecked and come ashore and she was laying with her bottom towards
the north and that was all filled up with sand. And I rode up on top
of that and I had about a four foot jump right into about a foot of water.
Motorcycle and all we went right down caplot. Well, also I couldn't
get, well then I didn't know how to start it like I found out later. It
wasn't nothing for me to do but I dug that thing out of the water and put
it up on the beach and I set out by foot, which was about five or six
miles to the other house of refuge, which is Gilbert's bar, down there,
I knowspme of you have been there. And I got those boys down there to
h elp me, to come up In fact, the skipper let them they borrowed me a
boat. We stopped at the Jensen pavilion. We loaded the old motorcycle
in the boat. We took it over to Jensen, we placed it up on the dock and
it wouldn't run at all. And I got to late Douglas Rickle and he had a
big _____ and I got a big rope and we got behind that
thing. I did and he towed me and he towed me to the county line down
there from Jensen before I ever got up to make a And finally
we got it going. And I come up this highway and I didn't have no speedometer.
I didn't and I was mad too. And I said, I said to myself, I'll just let
it go. And I got down to where Mary Ester lived now, this old brick house
down here, where she used to lived. It think he's gone now. And I was
going so fast I couldn't make the turn. They got a little "s" turn there
so I just went right across the bushes, so I kept on coming. I slowed
St. Lucie Tape ^1 /79
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down a little bit I thought. I must have been running awful fast, because
they would run about ninety miles an hour. So we got up to Fort Pierce
and right there where the new parking lot is now. I thought I'd slowed
down enough to make that corner. And I sailed down around that corner
and I bumped up against that curve and I kicked off that all right. I
made it back. I didn't have sense enough to slowed her anymore. And where
Cunningham's jewelry shop used to be, Mr. K.B. Rollingson's house back
in there. I ended up in his yard. I didn't make the next corner. Motorcycle
and all in the yard. Well, that, I was mad- then. I went across the. where
the Matthers furniture store is now, that used to be a drug store. I hadn't
had nothing to eat from that morning. I wasn't fit to be killed. So I
ate, I got a chocolate mile and something else then I set sail for
St. Lucie. And I got the Summerlyn boys while I was in St. Lucie. They
loaded me and the motorcycle in a flat bottom boat. They towed me back over
to the coast guard station. And whn I got there. they had sent the late
Lawrence Bauling down the beach to hunt me. They didn't know where I
was. They, and said well you'll have to go down. It's low tide
at sea and spend twelve hours until another low tide. You'll have to
go and get Lawrence. So I set sail for him. I went on down. I met him
just this side of the Eden pavilion and he says to me he saw this light,
we had a pretty god light, come and he says I don't know how he could
A!~p~r Iriil TI y ki~Ce kc S,
ever get around me because I haven't got off the beach. 'How in the world J
did you get around me and come back and get me7 I says I didn't. I come
around by the road. So I loaded him on that motorcycle that night. It was
night then. Took him back up and we was glad to get there. At this time I
will try to answer any question you might happened to ask about the old
house of refuge. If there's none I will bring this to an end, an end of
my chatter on this subject,
St. Lucie Tape 12 /i/9
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It was open right around 1921, the inlet was open.
The old inlet above the house of refuge when they reopened the Gilbert's
bar inlet, my daddy and the niggers went down there and opened the inlet
with their shovels. They, all the water that was coming out of the St.
Lucie River did come up here and go out there. And _they didn't have
enough water to keep that inlet open, so it just naturally closed. I've
been out that inlet a lot of time before it closed, and went. Incidently
when we were at the coast guard station the fishermen used to use that as
a haul over to haul their fish over and us boys were very glad when the
fish was running because they give us twenty five cents a wheelbarrel,
loading a wheelbarrel. We load the wheelingbarrel load of fish from
he ocean to the river. And we done pretty good at that job. We were just
hoping the fish would last.
I see Mr. Brumble right now. I think, I said there was other men
with him. I didn't know who it was, but that was, did you go out with
Ralph?
I know him well. Yeah, I know his daddy, but I'll tell you. the day
I went out there as big as life to get those cannons and raise them with
the rope. That was a disastrous trip for us.
They put a small drag line on a barge and went out there and got
them one calm day. After our episode.
This is the log that I got a lot of the information out of. If you want
to look at it, or come up here, or pass it around, why, I don't know. I'll
tell you about, one of the ship wrecks. one of the wrecks that was held was
the Edith. She got in trouble, Indian trouble and Adelade Summerlyn and
Clarence Summerlyn and his wife and I noticed it reading in here that
preacher Reed was along and I don't know whether too many of you remember
St. Lucie Tape t2 /7/?
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Page 15
preacher Reed, but he was the Episcopal preacher here at the time. I'll
tell you a little joke about him. Years ago, you know, we used to wear
a two piece bathing suits and Mrs. Reed bought him one of those bathing
suits and we all went over to the beach. ____ and he got in
t his, I don't know, he put on this bathing suit and evidently he tried
it one before. He was a very tall man, better than six foot four or five,
and lo and behold she sewed a ruffle down around the bottom of the britches.
I'll never forget it. If there's nothing further. I'll sit down.
Well, that was just a switch. She didn't. it didn't wreck. She
just had Indian trouble, but they got her in. There's several wrecks in
here. I mean on, in this log.book, but I'd be all night if I tried to
etll all about the balast and the crew. There were several people lost
here and that's the reason why they built these houses of refuge. I
remember as a kid we went over to the beach across from Eden. I could
lay right in my bedroom window and look at the ocean. That's because we
were high up on a hill. We went over there one day and there was a
two fellows laying there deader than a door nail and they buried them and
several years later, why, they didn't, they just buried them on the bank
right there. We didn't think nothing about it. Us kids would go over
there seven or eight years letter and boy, the watered uncovered them
there their feet was sticking out right at you. I'll shut up on that.
?: Would our guest from Fort Lauderdale care to say a word?
?: And I would say that Fort Pierce
is going about like Fort Lauderdale does in the mid winterbecause you got
a ___ up here and this is a wonderful ___historical
society unless were just alike. I know
St. Lucie Tape /7/?
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Page 16
who built the Pepper park, who was the founder of Florida.
And he was telling me that in some excavations in building that
they uncovered some Indian artifacts and wooden bowls and long solder
spoons. I was just wondering if anybody knew what become of it. I read
there was some of some of your trees out there, too.
Does anyone have the answer to his question?
?: I think those might have been put there by us. I remember
distinctly one night an old bear come down to the beach and upset about five
or six hives of bees there for Captain Dolly. He made a big fricous out
there. We didn't get him. We tried to shoot him but he got away. They
say suffered from mosquitoes and sand flies out there and
Really? You can get a quart and get a gallon and bring it around here
at any time. They were ANd I said I wouldn't mind, we wouldn't
mind They were really
It's a pleasure to be with you, sir, and I congratulate you on your society.
Thank you sir and every visitor here. Remember you're more than welcome
to attend all the meetings. Yes, sir, Mr. Hellier.
H: The president would like to make another announce to the meeting.
She r e t o n i g h r e m e m b e r s o f t h e S t L u c i e H i s t o r i c a l
Society Commission. that maintains
It's one group that serves
just opened on the first of September and during that time the historical
society will be closed for threemxnonths We are very fortunate to have
members of the historical society to help us operate the historical
museum. _____ everything into
when they come in. And we've been very fortunate this
St. Lucie Tape *2 /,,
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Page 17
year by having opened on the first of September which was twenty one
days before our first formal meeting of the historical society to be
able to find ladies who are willing and gentlemen too, to help us
sit at the desk _______. We're a little bit short We've
tried to get ___not have someone come one day
every week one day every other week. ANd we
left so if there's one or two ladies who would be willing to help us out
we have a vacancy from September twenty ninth and Monday of October
inaudible ........
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