Costuem Construction and Tailoring for Hobson's Choice

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Material Information

Title:
Costuem Construction and Tailoring for Hobson's Choice
Physical Description:
Project in lieu of thesis
Creator:
Floyd, Tracy Lynn
Publisher:
College of Fine Arts; University of Florida
Publication Date:

Thesis/Dissertation Information

Degree:
Master's ( Master of Fine Arts)
Degree Grantor:
University of Florida
Committee Chair:
Galloway, Stacey
Committee Members:
Kaye, Stan
McGee, Robin

Notes

Abstract:
This thesis will explore the costume construction and tailoring process for Harold Brighouse’s Hobson’s Choice produced by The University of Florida School of Theatre and Dance. Under the direction of Professor Charlie Mitchell, performances of Hobson’s Choice took place in the Constans Theater of the Nadine McGuire Pavilion in Gainesville, Florida, opening to the Good Life Course on January 30, 2014 and to the public on February 8, 2014 and concluded after sixteen performances. The design process began in late August 2013. I served as draper and tailor to costume designer Alyssa Courtier for the characters Maggie and Henry Horatio Hobson. Executing the designs required collaboration with the designer, director, costume shop, and a team of first-hands and stitchers to help bring the historical costumes of Hobson’s Choice to life.
General Note:
Theatre terminal project

Record Information

Source Institution:
University of Florida
Rights Management:
Copyright Tracy Floyd. Permission granted to the University of Florida to digitize, archive and distribute this item for non-profit research and educational purposes. Any reuse of this item in excess of fair use or other copyright exemptions requires permission of the copyright holder.
System ID:
AA00025543:00001


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! "#$%&! COSTUME CONSTRUCTION AND TAILORING FOR HOBSON'S CHOICE BY TRACY FLOYD SUPERVISORY COMMITTEE: PROF. STACEY GALLOWAY, CHAIR PROF. STAN KAYE, MEMBER PROF. ROBIN MCGEE, 3 RD READER A PROJECT IN LIEU OF THESIS PRESENTED TO THE COLLEGE OF FINE ARTS OF THE UNIVERSITY OF FLORIDA IN PARTIAL FULFILLMENT OF THE REQUIREMENTS FOR THE DEGREE OF MASTER OF FINE ARTS UNIVERSITY OF FLORIDA 2014

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! "#$%&! ( ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS Foremost, I would like to express my sincere gratitude to my advisor Prof. Stacey Galloway for her patience, motivation, and immense knowledge. Her guidance helped me in all aspects of completing my thesis project and completing my MFA degree I would also like to thank the rest of my thesis committee: Prof. Stan Kaye and Prof. Robin McGee for their enc ouragement. I thank my fellow Graduate Assistants: Becki Stafford, Janae Lafleur Alyssa )$*+*,-., / 0.,1&$1 Lisa Eash and Kayla Lopez, for their inspiration. Last but not the least, I would like to thank my partner Layne Weldon, I cou ld not ha ve done this with out your support and encouragement.

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! "#$%&! 2 T ABLE OF CONTENTS ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS .........2 TABLE OF CONTENTS .3 ABSTRACT .....4 INTRODUCTION 5 PRE PRODUCTION PHASE ..6 Play Synopsis Period and Character Research Exploration of Silhouette PRODUCTION PHASE 12 Draping for Maggie Hobson Tailoring for Henry Hobson TE CH WEEK ...19 C ONCLUSION 20 B IBLIOGRAPHY 22 A PPENDIXES .....24 A) Renderings B) Research C) Process and Fitting Photos D) Production Photos BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCH .......37

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! "#$%&! 3 ABSTRACT Summa ry of Project in Lieu of Thesis Presented to the Graduate School of The University of Florida In Partial Fulfillment of the Requirements for the Degree of Master of Fine Arts COSTUME CONSTRUCTION AND TA ILORING FOR HAROLD BRIGHOUSE'S HOBSON'S CHOICE By Tracy Lynn Floyd April 2014 ! )45-,6!7,$89!:+5;.%!<5##$=5% >.?@.,6! 7,$89!:+51!A5%. >5B$,6!C4.5+,. This thesis will explore the costume construction and tailoring process for Harold Brighouse's Hobson 's Choice produced by The University of Flor ida School of Theatre and Dance. U nder the direction of Professor Charlie Mitchell, D .,8$,?51;.E!$8! !"#$"%&$'()"*+, +$$F!D#5;. -1!+4.! Constans Theater of the Nadine McGuire Pavilion in Gainesville, Florida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! "#$%&! S OTCUVWX)COVT ! ! C4.!X 1-P.,E-+%!$8!"#$,-&5!:;4$$#!$8!C4.5+,.!51&!W51;.!D,$&*;.&!05,$#&! Y,-H4$*E.ZE! !"#$"%&$'()"*+, 5E! D5,+!$8!+4.-, (K'2 / (K'3!E.5E$19!!>%!,$#.!-1! +4.! ;$E+*?.!E4$D!8$,! +4-E!D,$&*;+-$1!=5E!E.,P-1H!5E!&,5D., G #.5&-1H!5!+.5?!$8!8-,E+ / 451&E G!5E!?%!D,$B.;+!-1!#-.*!$8! +4.E-E!-1 D5,+-5#!8*#8-##?.1+!$8!?%!>5E+.,!$8!"-1.!N,+E! &.H,..!-1!C4.5+,-;5#!)$E+*?.!W.E-H1!51&!C.;41$#$H%9!! !"#$"%&$'()"*+, -' directed by Professor Charlie Mitchell, $D.1.&!8$,! E+*&.1+E!$1!J51*5,%!2KG!(K'3!51&!$D.1.&!+$! +4.!D*@#-;!$1!".@,*5,%!LG!(K'3!-1!+4 .! Constans Theater of the Nadine McGuire Pavilion in Gainesville, Florida concluding after sixteen performances on February 16, 2014. Hobson's Choice featured a design team including Alyss a )$*+*,-., / 0.,1&$1 as the costume designer, Elizabeth Frith as th e scenic designer, Patricia Mayme as lighting designer and stage managed by Andrea Camargo The cast included Michael Martinez Hamilton as Henry Horatio Hobson and featured Emily Green as Maggie Hobson, which served as her performance in lieu of thesis. Actualizing the costume design for any historically based production has many challenges and our production of Hobson's Choice was no exception. The costume designer Alyssa was encourag ed to create her designs with very little limitations on budget or manpower. Eliminat ing this hurdle allowed Alyssa to create beautifully elaborate designs that conceptualized her ideas of what Hobson and his family look ed like. The design process for Hobson's Choice was limited to four formal design meetings over the course of 10 weeks These meetings were immediately followed by the production process, which began the week of October 21, 2013 and was disrupted by Christmas break from December 4, 2013 through January 6, 2014 when work continued

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! "#$%&! [ through tech week The re were a total of nine complete working weeks, with no holidays to complete projects for the show. This short time frame made it imperative to settle upon construction details quickly I worked closely with the designer during the initial design meetin gs to provide information regarding the correct under garments of the period and assisted in determining the silhouette s desired This provided Alyssa a basis to start creating her silhouettes. It is the ultimate goal of this paper to provide a detailed e xperience for the reader to understand how we as a costume team were able to create the designer's vis ion and bring the characters of Hobson's C hoice to life particularly the characters of Hobson and Maggie This paper will discuss the pre production pha se, which includes a play analysis, period and character research that is used to help form the characters costumes as well as the steps that were taken to explore the silhouettes of the time period to determine the silhouettes that were to be used for thi s production. PRE PRODUCTION PHASE The starting point of every theatrical perform ance is the script, which is the blue print that the director and designers use to build a production. The pre production process is the design process, which is a colla boration of the creative efforts to bring the playwright's work to life. This initial phase of the process includes analyzing the script, collaborating with the design team and director, research of the time period and preliminary sketches followed by fin al renderings.

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! "#$%&! 'K the cuffs are soft petals and the swag in the front drape is the shape of a soft petal or falling leaf Henry Horatio Hobson was a successful businessman made a mess by his alcoholism. Th e decision was made that a nicely tailored suit gave him a businessman's sens e of propriety. This presented an opportunity for me to tailor a suit and proved to be a great learning experience due to the challenges of the performer s body shape and the dif ficulty in the fabric chosen (see Appendix A, plate 7). Qd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c.E!5#$1H!=-+4!@*E+#.! D5&EG!@*E+#.!;5H.E!51&!D.++-;$5+E9!! N8+.,!&.+.,?-1-1H 4$=!?51% *1&.,E+,*;+*,.E!=.!1..&.&G!-+!@.;5?.! 5DD5,.1+!+45+!$*, ;$E+*?.!E+$;F!=5E!-1E*88-;-.1+e +4.!;5H.E!=.,.!-1!E5&!E45D.!=-+4! ,*E+.&!4$$D-1H!;$?-1H!$*+ 51&!+4.!D.++-;$5+E!&-&!1$+!$88.,!.1$*H4!8*##1. EE 9!! C4,$*H4!&-E;*EE-$1E!=-+4!+4.!E4$D!?515H.,!51&!+.;41$# $H%!D,$8.EE$,G!:+5;.%! <5##$=5%G!=.! &.;-&.&! +45+!-+!=$*#&!@.!?$,.!;$E+ / .88 .;+-P.!51& $88.,!5!#.5,1-1H!

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aE ..! NDD.1&-M Y G!D#5+.!' b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! "#$%&! '( PRODUCTION PHASE The production phase explores two main tasks I was assigned for the production of Hobson's Choice draping and tailoring. These sect ions will discuss what it takes for a costume shop to bring a design to stage. As a draper I faced challenges of interpreting the design and how to quickly assess time restraint problems. The tailoring portion examines my first attempt at tailoring a pl aid suit and what resources were used to create the designer's rendering. It is intended as a behind the scenes exploration of how we collaborated in an effort to create costume s that are an extension of the characters in Hobson Choice. WUN7OT< V1.!$8!+ 4.!8-,E+!+5EFE!O!45&!+$!+5;F#.!5E!5!&,5D.,!=5E!+$!E+5,+!&.P.#$D-1H!+4.! D5++.,1E!8$,!>5HH-.ZE!H5,?.1+E9!!Y.8$,.!E+5,+-1H!=$,F!$1!+4.!H5,?.1+E G O 45&!E.P.,5#! ;$1P.,E5+-$1E!=-+4!+4.! &.E-H1.,! +$!?5F.!E*,.!O!=5E!-1+.,D,.+-1H!4.,!,.1&.,-1HE a:..! NDD.1&-M!NG!D#5+ .E!'!51&!(b +$!;$1P.%!+4.!;45,5;+.,!E4.!45&!.E+5@#-E4.&9!! )$1E-&.,5+-$1E!5#E$!45&!+$!@.!?5&.!@.;5*E.!+ 4.!E;,-D+!-1;#*&.E!&-5#$H*.!5@$*+!+4.! E-E+.,E!45P-1H!&,.EE.E!?5&.!@%!+4.!E5?.!&,.EE?5F.,G!=4-;4!?5&.!-+!-?D.,5+-P.!+45+! O!E+*&%!+4.!@$&-;.E!D*##.&!8,$?!E+ $;F!+45+!=.,.!+$!@.!*E.&!8$,!+4.!E-E+.,E!+$!-1E*,.!O! ?5-1+5-1.&!5!;$1E-E+.1+!E45D.!8$,!5##!+4.!@$&-;.E9!!>5-1+5-1-1H!+4-E!;$1+-1*-+%!=$*#&! .1E*,.!+4.!;$E+*?.E!;$1+-1*.&!+$!E*DD$,+!+4.!E+$,%9! !! )5,.8*##%!515#%c-1H!+4. ,.1&.,-1HEG 5#$1H!=-+4!?%!,.E.5,;4!$8! ED.;-8-;!&.+5-#E G .15@#.&!?.!+$!D,$;..&!=-+4!&,5D-1H!+4.!H5,?.1+E9!!V1;.!+4.!&,.EE!8$,?!=5E!D5&&.&! +$!Q?-#%!<,..1ZE!?.5E*,.?.1+E G O!@.H51!+$!D#5;.!?%!E+%#.!#-1. E *E-1H! P.,%!+4-1!E+%#.

PAGE 13

! "#$%&! '2 +5D.9!!C4.E.!#-1.E!5,.!+4.!-1-+-5#!8$*1&5+-$1!$8!=4.,.!+4.!E.5?E!5,.!+$! @.!D#5;.&!8$,! +4.!H5,?.1+9 !! W*.!+$!+4.!+-?.!;$1E+,5-1+EG!O!&.;-&.&!+$!?5,F!@$+4!@$&-;.!E+%#.!#-1.E! $1!+4.!E5?.!&,5D.!51&!?5F.!E$?.!E#-H4+!?$&-8-;5+-$1E!-1!+4.!D5D.,!D5++.,1!+$! 5;;$??$ &5+.!+4.!1..&E!$8!.5;4!@$&-;.9!!C 4.!H,..1!#-1.E!5,.!8$,!+4.!8-,E+!#$$F!51 &!+4.! ,.&! #-1.E!5,.!8$,!+4.!E.;$1&!#$$F!aE ..!NDD.1&-M!)!D#5+.!'b9!! >%!E+%#.!#-1.E!=.,.!E.++#.&!51&!5DD,$P.&!@%! +4.!&.E-H1., G!.15@#-1H!?.!+$! D,$;..&!-1!?5F-1H!+4.!D5D.,!D5++.,19!!:#..P.E!5,.!5#=5%E!+,-;F%!51&!*E*5##%!45,&!+$! &,5D.!@.;5*E.!&,.EE!8$,?E!&$1f+ 45P.!5,?EG!E$!8$,!+4.!E#..P.E!O!&,58+.&!5!D5++.,1!$*+! $8!J.51!0*11-E.++ZE!@$$FG! 3,.*"1'("$/45,'6".'7/08,'9'7+.,,% aE..!NDD.1&-M!Y!D#5+.! (b9!!C4.!D5++.,1 H5P.!+4.!&.E-,.&!E45D.G!@*+ ,.R*-,.&!5&B*E+?.1+E!+$!8-+!-1+$!+4.! @$&-;. 9!! C$!.1E*,. +4.!H5 ,?.1+!;$*#&! .5E-#%!@.!5EE.?@#.& G +4.!D5++.,1!D-.;.E!=.,.! ;5,.8*##%!51&!R*-;F#%! ;4.;F.& +$H.+4.,9!!C4.!8-15#-c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

PAGE 16

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