A homemade fly trap


Material Information

A homemade fly trap
Physical Description:
4 p. : ill. ; 27 cm.
Brundrett, H. M
United States -- Bureau of Entomology and Plant Quarantine
U.S. Dept. of Agriculture, Agricultural Research Administration, Bureau of Entomology and Plant Quarantine
Place of Publication:
Washington, D.C
Publication Date:


Subjects / Keywords:
Insect traps   ( lcsh )
Flies -- Control   ( lcsh )
federal government publication   ( marcgt )
non-fiction   ( marcgt )


General Note:
Caption title.
General Note:
General Note:
"October 1953."
Statement of Responsibility:
by H.M. Brundrett.

Record Information

Source Institution:
University of Florida
Rights Management:
All applicable rights reserved by the source institution and holding location.
Resource Identifier:
aleph - 030364795
oclc - 783800100
System ID:

Full Text
October 1953 ET-312

United States Department of Agriculture
Agricultural Research Administration
Bureau of Entomology and Plant Quarantine


By H. M. Brundrett
Division of Insects Affecting Man and Animals

A fly trap made of wood and wire screening has been designed for
those who desire to construct their own. Soft wood that does not split
easily, such as redwood or white pine, is best. The screen should be
of Monel, bronze, or copper, and the hardware of nonrusting material.
The materials required are a piece of 24-inch screening 10 feet
4 inches long, the hardware listed on page 2, two pieces of 1 by 4
lumber 10 feet long, and 30 feet of 3/4-inch screen-door molding. One
of these boards is ripped slightly off center to make two different
widths, which are then cut into eight uprights. About 70 inches of
the second board is cut off, ripped into two strips of equal width,
and made into eight horizontals. The remainder of this second board
is sufficient for ripping the 1- and 1/2-inch strips needed. It is
advisable to give all pieces of wood two coats of waterproof paint
before assembling them.
Four identical side panels, like the one shown in figure 1, are
first assembled, the lower crosspieces being 4 inches above the
lower ends of the uprights. Half-lap joints are used held together
with 2d nails. Screening is tacked to the inside of the frame, and
the edges are covered with molding. The four panels are then fastened
together with screws. An 18- by 18-inch frame with screening is then
screwed to the top edge of the cage, and the cone is constructed and
The cone is made from one piece of screening. A pattern should
be first made of paper (fig. 2). A semicircle is drawn with a radius
of 22 inches, and radii are drawn from the center to points on the
circumference 15 inches apart, making four equal triangles. A /2-
inch lap is left along one margin. When the screening has been cut
to the desired shape, it is rolled into a cone and the lap is soldered
to the opposite edge. The screening may be held in position for
soldering by tacking it lightly to the edge of a 1 by 4. Although
soldering is preferred, the edges can be either laced together with
copper wire or nailed to a strip of wood.


The four pieces for the cone frame are nailed together to form a
square. Then the screening is tacked to the inside of the frame, and
the edges are covered with screen-door molding. The apex of the
cone is cut off to leave an opening about 1 inch in diameter. The cone
is slipped into position and fastened with L-head screws (fig. 3), or it
may be held in place by means of two small turn buttons if preferred.
A good bait pan to use with a trap of this size is one 14 inches
wide and 4 1/2 inches high. Granite-covered iron is very durable if
handled carefully so that the granite is not broken. The pan should
fit loosely inside the cone frame and extend 1/2 inch above the bottom
edge of the trap.
The bait to use depends upon the kind of fly to be trapped. For
blow flies an excellent attractant is 2 pounds of beef liver in 1 gallon
of water. For house flies 2 pounds of brown sugar, or 1 pint of cane
molasses, in 1 gallon of water may be used. After several days'
fermentation the bait becomes more attractive.
Best results are obtained when the trap is installed in the open
with no tree branches or other obstructions directly above it (fig. 4).
Partial shade does not harm the catch materially in hot weather, but
in cold weather the trap should be placed out of the wind but exposed to



Uprights for panel frame
Horizontals for panel frame
Frame for top
Frame for cone
Molding for panel, verticals
Molding for panel, horizontals
Molding for cone
Screening (sides)
Screening (top)
Screening (cone)
1/4-lb. box of wire nails (for molding)
Cement-coated nails for cone frame
Galvanized nails for lap joints
1/4-lb. box of canvas tacks
Flat-headed wood screws for panels
Flat-headed wood screws for top
L-head screws
String solder, rosin core

Siz e
2 1/16 x 3/4 x 28
1 5/16 x 3/4 x 28
111/16 x 3/4 x 171/4
1/2 x 3/4 x 171J4
1 x 3/4 x 155/8
20 1/2 inches long
15 1/2 inches long
14 5/8 inches long
15 1/2 x 22
18 x 18
24 x 44
3/4 x 18

1 1/2 x 8
1 1/4 x 7
2 inches long

Figure 1.--Side panel
of fly trap.

Figure 2. --Pattern for screen cone.



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3 1262 09242 9488



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