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1 Louis P. Hen e to Europe, Cuba, and Key West aboard the U.S.S. San Jacinto August 9, 1854 to March 14, 1855 Wednesday Aug. 9 th First day the whole of which was passed on board ship._ Last night slept in a hammock for first time, and fortunately got in without difficulty, but owing to the loose way in which it was slung, did not have a very comfortable night._Handed up the anchor a bout 5 P.M., and after considerable difficulty in turning, owing to a strong ebb tide, got fairly under weigh,_but unfortunately when nearly opposite Gloucester ran aground, and were forced to wait for high ceeded several miles further down the river, and anchored for the night. Had really a good night s rest, my hammock being hauled back, and my bedding comfortably arranged._ Hope to get to sea to morrow._ Thursday August 10 th ._ Started from our anchorage sent of the Pilot + stood out to sea._ Had no unpleasant sensations till bedtime when the rolling of the ship + closeness of the steerage, forced met t o seek the deck minus stockings, cravat, + man y other important little articles, and in rather a more hurried manner than I could have desired. However the fresh air s oon revived me, and I slept in m y overcoat on a hen coop very till morning._ Unfortunately owing to my ailment I could not smoke and for almost the first time in my life, the sight of a cigar made me feel faint, and the smoke from one caused me to make a precipitate retreat for fear of consequences._ Friday August 11 th ._ Woke up feeling a little uncomfortable, but soon revived under the influence of the fresh air on deck and managed to eat a light breakfast._ The water of a most beautiful indigo blue, and very transparent._The Chickens, a singular looking bird, about the size of a robin of a dark brown color, with a broad white band across the lower part of the body, + web footed._ They live upon the water hund reds of miles from land and Subs ist upon the offal from the ships. Have been in the Gulf Stream porpoises swam past._Have had very little to do in the cabin and most of the time have been on dec k reading._ Not sea sick (?) this morning and hope that my troubles in that line are over, if so have great cause to congratulate myself that I was affected so little. Making good headway, and hope to reach Southampton in about 15 days. Saturday August 12 th ._ Perfectly well, not the least remnant of sea sickness left._ Having nothing to do sat almost all day in the bows of the ship and read._ Early in the afternoon a fine breeze sprang up when the engine was stopped and the s ails unbent; sailed at the rat e of about 6 knots an hour, and found it much pleasanter than steaming owing to the absence of the jamming motion caused by the machinery._ Nothing occurred worthy of note._
2 Sunday,August 13 th ._ First Sunday at sea._ A fine f resh breeze blowing, and ship sailing at the rate of 8 knots an hour._ In the m stered on the quarter deck in service dress and white pantaloons to attend morning service, which consisted of the service from the Epi scop al Pra yer Book and the Articles of War, which latter are read monthly in order to impress upon the minds of the seamen the punishment they will suffer if they disobey orders but I am sorry to say nobody seemed to listen to them and everybody and the Captain part icularly, who read them seemed to be hearti ly glad when they were finished. Towards afternoon it clouded over and the breeze freshened considerably so that several of the sails had to be furled, while below things could with difficulty be induced to st ay o n the tables and chair s +c, danced polkas and waltzed with great clat._ I, however, do not think I ever felt better pleased in my life and as I stood in the bow + watched the waves curling + breaking over the vessel now mounted high in the air and the nex t moment deep in the tr ough of the sea, the grandeur of the scene completely overcame me, and I could have stood for hours, riveted to the spot as it were had not the clouds of spray forced me to retire._ For the first time I saw the flying fish, hundred s of which were darting around the vessel, and was particularly st r uck with their beauty._ They are of a bright silver hue, with backs of cerulean blue + the wings are perfectly transparent, very much like the wings of a fly._ At 6 P.M. I witnessed one of t he most solemn and impressive scenes that ever occurs on board ship, (?) a burial at sea._ This morning the Captain s cook, who had been sick for some days, suddenly died, and as sailors ar e almost always superstitious by disposition [?] and especially i n regard to having the corpse of one of their mates on board, he was buried in a few hours._ The boats wain to the gunwale on the port side of the ship, while to render the scene still more impressive, the waves were rolling high, the heavens were black overhead, and the rain poured in torrents._ There we all stood uncovered to the storm the corpse, lying on a board sewed up in a hammock with a heavy cannon ball attached, and wrapped in the American Flag, ready to be dropped into the sea at the appropriated time, while the Captain standing at the main mast read the Episcopal Burial Service._ I do not think it has ever been my lot to witness a more impr essive scene, and when the body plunged into the sea, not a sound was heard save the raging of the waters, + the rolling of the ship._ About 9 P.M. there was quite an excitement caused by the report that there was 3 ft. of water in the hold, but as after e xamination it proved to be nothing very alarming, and as it was bed time and was very much fatigued literally, with doing nothing I followed the examples of most of those who were not on duty, and turned in. Monday August 14 th ._ When I awoke this morning dressed and went up, when I found that the report of last night had turned out to be true, and t hat on account of some defect, the pumps had had to be taken apart + fixed and that they had only just commenced working._ but in the course of a few hours everything was in order again. It seems that one of the boilers, which holds an enormous quantity of water, had a small imperfection in it through which the water leaked with the hold._ This however was rendered immediately._ This afternoon a crack was unfo rtunately discovered in the bed plate of the After Engine, and though it was a thing that did not at all interfere with the working of the machinery yet as we were only 600 miles from Philadelphia it w as deemed advisable to return and have it
3 attended to, and accordingly orders were given to that effect much to the dissatisfaction of all.+ By the time it is fixed it will be too late to go to the Baltic but it is the opinion of many that we will cruise a bout the W. Indies till Spring and then go there._ Tuesday August 15 th ._ Perfectly delightful._ The ocean nearly as smooth as glass and but little wind.+_ Homeward bound but not as well please d as persons gener ally are when in that situation + n ot a smi ling face to be seen throughout the ship with one exception, and that the face of one of the officers but lately married;_ and no wonder for by this most unlucky accident, one of the pleasantest cruises that was ever planned has been broken up, certainly f or several months._ Was kept very busy in the cabin this morning and had a great deal of writing to do._ Wednesday August 16 th ._ Early th is morning a small leak was foun d i n the hold and it was thought advisable to turn the ships head to Boston as being the nearest naval port by 150 miles._ on many accounts I am pleased, I will thus have an opportunity of visiting Bos ton, a city I have often desired to see, as little or no exposure, a s we will in all probability live on ship board._ From Boston we will go to Philadelphia to get the Engine repaired before setting out again,_ and probably be there a month or six weeks. This evening the water was beautifully phosphorescent, the foam cast up by the ship s bow, seeming to be tipped with silver._ Thursday Aug 17 th ._ Making for Boston Harbor._ amid Light._ Occupied writing all day._ Nothing occurred worthy of note._ Friday, August 18 th._ ing enveloped in a thick fog._ T he water of a deep green and filled with weeds._ Two sharks were seen in the morning close to the port side of the ship and numerous schools of mackerel swam past._ About 5 P.M. fired a gun and soon had a pilot on board, and were soon at the entrance to Boston Harbour [sic] which is filled with sandy is lands, and from the lights in the numerous light houses on them, one could easily imagine that he was close to a large city._ Approached to within 10 miles of the city, + dropped anchor for the night._ Saturday, Aug 19 th g from our anchorage, for Boston, and arrived at the Navy il up the Harbour, passing Fort s Winthrop + Independence and many other object s of interest._ Fort Winthrop is a new fort, and is one of the most beautiful pieces of masonry that I have ever seen; it is very large and leave till sundown, and accordingly went ashore to see something of this grea t Abolition C ity._ Taking an omnibus near the Navy Yard gate I was soon in Boston and by making good use of my eyes, I easily found the Post Office and deposited a letter I had written._ One of the first things that attracted my attention was the very ver y croo ked streets which I passed through,
4 seen the Commerce + some other of the lions, I adjourned to the Revere House where I was soon joined by some 8 or 1 0 from ship, and after we had all indulged in the great luxury of a warm bath, we we nt to a large Eating House near by, + had a nice dinner to ourselves, and then after another walk, we all came aboard ship._ Sunday Aug. 20 th ._ A most beautiful day._ At 1 having nothing to do I got leave to go on shore + with several others went to town.+ It being too late for church we walked around, we went to the Revere + Fremont Houses, and promenaded in th e common which was crowded with I saw the names of many of my young Philade l phia friends + among them, Juo. Welsh + Caldwell K. Biddle._ In the evening went to the mount Temple, a very large and beautiful Music Hall, capable of holding some 3 or 4000 people, where there was a Concert of Sacred Music._ The music was very fine, + the there + mixing on terms of equality with the whites._ A la rge negro came in, accompanied by cullad the ladies with great show of politeness they having to take very inferior plac es at the further en d of the Hall. Monday, Aug ust 21 st ashore and taking an omnibus to Battle Street, took the stage from there to Cambridge where I arrived in about an hour after a pleasant ride._ One of the finest things I did was to look in the pleasantly in walking around the College grounds and looking at the Buildings, which mostly have a very venerable look._ U nfortunately I was unable to see any of the friends, I have at the coloured ladies white men + women ent to the Revere House to supp sever al of my shipmates._ Tuesday, Aug, 22 nd ._ Foggy but very warm._ Thermometer 93 degrees in shade._ Went on shore in afternoon, and wrote two letters from the Revere House, one to N.Y and one to Philadelphia._ Took tea at and came aboard at 7 o Wednesday, Aug 23 rd ._ + went ashore as usual in the afternoon, and took a walk through Washington St. Played a couple of games of Billiards, and in t he evening went to the Ho ward A theneu m to hear the [Giuseppe Verdi] Opera of Ernani and was really delighted, for through the artistes have but just arrived in this country and are but little known of, yet the singing was really excellent, + they were enthusiastically applauded from beginning to end._
5 Thursday, Aug. 24 th ._ On board s hip all day._ Nothing occurred._ Friday Aug.25 th ._ Went on shore in the morning, but left it as soon as I could on account of the heat and dust._ Went to the Revere and Fremont, but did not see the names of any persons that I knew._ Got into a Charlesto wn omnibus and rode to Bunker Hill, and as a matter of course went on top of the monument, but did not think I was paid for my trouble, and the long dark dreary walk up as the day was very misty, and instead of the beautiful view which is generally to be o btained, I could scarcely see for more than 2 or 3 miles around._ came on board to dinner and remained the rest of the day._ Saturday, August 26 th ._ Was occupied writing all the morning and in the afternoon went ashore with permission to stay for the The atre, but did not avail myself of it, for the simple reason that Theatrical representations are not allowed in Boston on Saturday Night._ Saw at the Fremont the names of Mr. And Mrs. Wm. Lyttleton Savage of Philadelphia._ Got caught in the rain, but manage d to get to the Revere, before it rained hard, and took supper there._ Saw the name of E. Turn er + Mr. + Mrs. Richard Gilpin of Phil. And had a conversation with the former, and a bow from the latter._ Intend to call to morrow._ The rain holding up, started for the ship + arrived safely._ Sunday, Aug. 27 th ._ Went ashore soon after breakfast, and according to agreement went with E. Turner to Cambridge to see Jno Robinson (his cousin) who had told T that he would be in C today.+ However we were doomed to disappointment, for he had not arrived, and accordingly I went to the Hotel and wrote a short note to him._ Much to my surprise saw Malcolm Macenen and had a long and very pleasant talk with him._ He has been wandering about for the last 2 or 3 months, and has lately been to Norfolk in the Columbia Frigate. Returned from Cambridge at 3 P.M. and paid a very pleasant visit to Mrs. Gilpin, and was introduced to her husband._ Came aboard at 7._ Monday, August 28 th ._ On board ship al l day._ Nothing occurred._ Tuesday, August 29 th ._ Went on shore at 12 N and immediately to the Revere, where I wrote 3 letters + had a the street of Boston, Washing ton S treet, and met in the crow d several young ladies with very pretty faces._ Took chocolate at Passed Mi d. Wilson [?] and after making several small purchases returned to the ship._ In the evening went to a very pleasant party at Parser very tired and sleepy._
6 Wednesday, Aug. 30 th ._ Busy writing all the morning. Common. Got some Pu b Docs. For the Captain at the Post Office and came aboard early in the evening._ Thursday Aug. 31 st + enjoyed myself very much._ Friday Sept. 1 st On board all day._ Wet and disagreeable._ Saturday Sept. 2 nd ._ At 3 P.M. started from the Navy Yard, midst a great waving of handkerchiefs from ladies on the wharf, and proceeded under char ge of the Pilot to Nantasket Roa ds, very near Fort Warren, where we anchored for th e night._ Felt reall y no regret at leaving Boston, but some little at leaving Charlestown.__ All very glad to be once more on the way to England._ and hoping to Sunday, Sept. 3 rd At 9 A.M. hauled up the Anchor, and got underway. A most beautiful day._ Had a general muster of the crew on the Quarter Deck, and performed Divine Service._ Monday Sept. 4 th ._ Fairly at sea._ The morning clear and cool._ In the afternoon witnessed for t he first time an auction on board ship, and found it very amusing._ The ships corporal stood at the Port gang way and as the bags of those who had deserted were handed up, expos ed the articles in them and kno cked them down for a merely nominal value to the first who spoke. Towards evening were enveloped in a heavy fog bank, + had to keep a sharp lookout ahead all the time,_ but fortunately no collision._ From 5 th to 10 th Nothing occurred._ Sunday September 10 th ._ First bad weather since we have been out._Awoke in the morning and found the ship rolling heavily, and immediately dressed and went on deck._ The sky was dark + there was a slight rain, while the ship under double reef ed topsails wa s rolling and pitching along at the rate of 10 knots an hour. + Truly one of the grandest sights I have ever seen, almost equaling Niagra._ The Ocean for miles around covered with giant waves topped with foam and the ship now high above the water, now down to the very deck, seem like a mere feather on the water._ Did not leak a drop.+ Towards even in g the wind somewhat abated.
7 Monday Sept. 11 th ._ A school of Dolphins around the ship all the morning._ Decidedly the most beautiful fish I have ever seen._ They are ordinarily from 3 to 6 ft. long and swim with great v elocity on the top of the water._ Their colours varying according to the depth of which they swim._ The head is of a dark bl ue gradually shaded off toward s the tail, to a pale sea green with large fins of a beautiful cerulean tint ._ In the afternoon a numb er of black fish followed us for several miles._ They are of a dark brown color, beautifully marked with white, from 10 to 13 ft. long are very oily and shaped something like a whale._ A beautiful day, but a heavy sea still on._ From 11 th to 19 th ._ Nothin g occurred except that I commenced a letter home._ Wednesday, Sept. 20 th ._ In the channel._ In the morning a most beautiful clear day, with numerous sails in sight._ Pilot boat very different from our American ones, the boats being very dirty and unsightly looking, and the Pilots themselves, coarse vulgar men._ Started up the Channel and soon m ade Portland Bill, a projecting strip of land and after that the coast was c onstantly in sight, high c h alky cliffs, covered with stunted trees + yellow looking grass._ The mist now clearing away. The Isle of W ight was after having passed a large church on the main land, we came close under the immense cliffs on this side the Island, and sailed very near the looking, with the ir rugged sides, + pointed tops like icebergs._ Passing this point, we soon came saw a more beautiful sight._ probably however this was owing to being a s trange one to me._ The Isle of Wight is one of the most charming spots about England, and Yarmouth lies nestled in a little bay, with its castle in port standing out in the bold r elief surrounded by groves of the most beautiful trees._ And here I must sto p to notice the sunset, which I think surpassed any I have ever seen and was, I was told by some who have been in the Mediterranean, very much li ke an Italian sunset._ In about half an hour we came abreast of Cowes with its fleet of yach ts and saw the turr o rn we came to anchor, but darkness prevented my making out exactly where we were. Thursday, Sept. 21 st Arose early in order to finish my letter, but previous to so doing went on deck to try and the most charming views greeted my eyes on every side,_ fully worth a voyage across the Atlantic, just to see for the first time the smooth fiel Abreast of us on the r ight, lay a beautiful granite castle, the residence of Lady Webste r, showing to great advantage against a lawn dotted with tre es, and looking in the distance like velvet, was the country place of Squire Drummond, one of the richest landed proprietors around South Ampton [sic], and far, far away in the rear, rose the tunnels of Calshot Castle, while in the distance was seen Osb orn looking as th ough it were a part of the clouds._ Soon after breakfast we got up steam and went some 3
8 Southampton + nearly abreast of Netley Abbey._ And now, of c ourse I was all impatient to go on shore, and after the salute was fired, got permission + was soon tr eading English ground._ Every thing was strange, and so unlike anything in America. In the first place the style of building was altogether different from what I had ever seen; houses that in our country would be regarded as monuments of antiquity, here were seen as every few steps._ And then the people, the equipages, men in such fantastic livery, that in America they would have been followed by crowds, an d ladies in full dress sitting in little covered chaises, pulled by a man in uniform of the most ridiculous kind._ The Hotels are also vastly different from anything I have ever see n entering thro a covered gateway, you enter a small door at the side, but not a soul is seen, and one almost dreads to break the silence,_ a bell however is placed in a conspicuous position, room or wherever you wish to go._ If you desire a meal you go in the Coffee room + order what you want, for there is no regular table set, and everything seems to be enveloped in mystery for they do not even keep a book of arrivals._ How different from hotels, and how unsociable this mode of life must be!_ On e of the most curious things in the town is the Bar gate, the old gate by which the city was entered from the north, built hundreds of years ago._ At sunset after a pleasant promenade in High Street came aboard._ Friday, Sept. 22 nd ._ Netley Abbey, thoroughly._ Landed in the docks, in which bye the bye t was lay ing town, hired a Grand Avenue,_ and soon started for Netley._ Crossing the Itchen river on a kind of bridge moving by steam, and very much like one of our ferry boats, we drove on the finest roads I have ever seen, bordered by hedges of the most beautiful green to the Abbey._ And here words cannot express my feelings at the solemn grandeur of the scene which opened before me the ruins covering an immense space, w ith here and there portions of the beautiful gothic work narrow spiral staircase in the wall, we stood on the summit of the ruins, and hours I could have passed here with pleasure, giving full play to my thoughts._ Unfortu nately however, there was a pic nic on the grounds, and the loud b ursts of laughter seems, so altogether out of place, that it was impossible to keep the mind fixed long upon any one thing._ After stay ing about an hour and a half, we drove leisurely back to town, stopping at the Netley Abbey Inn to take an English ith difficulty be surpassed.+ After a loung e, a game of billiards and a cigar, returned to the ship._ Saturday, Sept. 23 rd ._ On board all day._ Nothing occurred._ Commenced two letters._
9 Sunday, Sept. 24 th ._ Went on shore immediately after breakfast, and started in the 9 train for Winchester, in order to see the celebrated Cathedral at that place, and hear the service._ Could not help but notice, how superior the arrangements were at the English Railroad Sta tions, and how much better things were constructed than in our own._ The conductors, baggage men + porters were all in uniform and overpoweringly polite and everything went on without noise or confusion._ And then the 1 st class cars in which, as officers o f course we went, were so private + so comfortable, that it was like sitting in a large arm chair at home with two or three friends around._ The cars are divided into compartments holding six each, and each compartment a private room._ As soon as you enter the door is locked, for if there are three or more the whole is left to the party, and thus no one can disturb your privacy._ Another great advantage here is that the windows can be left open with impunity, for o n acct. of coal being used instead of wood there are no cinders with gravel which prevents dust._ At every road that crosses there is a gate and about the time that the rain is expected to pass, a uniformed official takes his stand at it + prevents everything from passing through. Starting from Southampton, we were whirle d along through a most beautiful country, so highly c ultivated as to look like a fine garden, and on each side of the road were planted hedges, always green + luxuriant, and imparting a beauty to the scenery that can hardly be im agined.+ Arriving at W inchester, we took an omnibus a small where we left our overcoats + walked up High Street to the Cathedral, and found service had just com menced._ This Cathedral is noted for the Nave, and upon entering I was overcome with astonishment._ Imagine an interior (somewhat similar to St. Marks in Philadelphia) some 500 ft in length + over a hundred in h eight, of a white sandstone, looking very muc h like marble, and covered with work of the most quaint + curious yet beautiful kind!+ Ascending a small staircase, we went into the Gallery of the Chapel, and heard the service of the Church of England, rendered in a manner that could not fail to impress + accompanied by the music of one of the finest organs in the world._ But unfortunately we had only 2 or 3 hrs. for what I could have spent days in examining, and so we were soon forced to return to the and soon were in Southa mpton again._ In the evening we attended service in Holyrood Church, Monday, Sept. 25th._ Started at 9 fo r a day at Salisbury + Stone Hen ge._ Arrived at the former place at 11 along by a high wall + ditch, which I presume were the ancien t fortifications of the town._ Entering through an old gate, covered with ivy, we came upon the open ground on which the Cathedral stands and if Winchester was solemn and grand this was truly magnificent._ Standing alone, as it does, on a beautiful green, the Avon winding its way along just back of it (not the Avon of Stratford) it appears to much greater advantage than Winchester, and the spire, over 400 ft in height, shows, a landmark for miles around._ ave, filled with the tombs of the great, among which was that of the son of Henry II and Fair Rosamond, + then passed into the Chapel and choir, and spent an hour there delightfully in examining the many objects of interest, which were fully explained by a very gentlemanly cle rk._ After that I ascended some 200 ft. into the spire, and had a fine view of the surrounding country._ From the ay in a few
10 minutes to Stone Hen ge, some 9 miles distant._ O n we went, over a road as hard + smooth as Cheese + covered with their flocks of s heep, and were soon at Stone Hen ge. This certainly is one of the most wonderful spots in England_ these ruins of an ancient Druidical Temple were formed when the Romans were under Caesar invaded Britain. how long they were in existence before that, no on e knows._ Wandering around + examining, we passed an hour delightfully and with great reluctance drove away from this most interesting spot. A comfortable ride to Southampton concluded this, one of the pleasantest days I have ever passed in my life._ Tu esday, September 26th. All day on board ship._ Wednesday, September 27th._ Water against a heavy head wind, but under a cloudless sky._ Passed Cowes, and turning to the lef channel near Spithead. The scene h ere was most charming on our right lay the I sle of Wight, with the flourishing town of Ryde at the water s edge; to the left was Lord Monument, and just around a point, a short distance ahead, lay Portsmouth with its magnificent dock yard._ Several large English vessels of war lay at anchor around us, and a new steam frigate was tying her engines in the Harbour._ Spithead is the place from which the Baltic fleet sailed, and a most imposing sight it must have been._ Thursday, September 28th._ Started up the Channel this morni all day, passing Beachy Head, the town of Hastings, where Will the Conqueror landed, Dungeness Point & c._ sight of both the English + French coast, Dover to our left and Calais to our right._ Friday, September 29th._ In the North Sea,_ and what was a very unusual occurrence, the sea was as smooth as glass, and not a breath of air was stirring, while the sun was so hot that straw hats were in e Dutch Coast, and at 5 were abreast of Texel light._ While at sea, we were all startled, by a sh ock, which caused every one to j ump to their feet, and rush upon deck, thinking that we were aground, and after a few moments found that the propeller had lost one of the immense brass blades, and that the shock was caused by the Southampton, and thus for a second time we are disappointed in our Baltic cruise._ Satu rday, Sept. 30th. Progressing rapi dly on our way, which however is unfortunately the wrong one._ The Propeller working, and sending us along as fast as ever, the only difference being a very disagreeable jarring._ Sunday, Oct. 1st._ water in the Channel, the thick fog rendering it dangerous to proceed.
11 Monday, Oct. 2nd._ ock, and found we were near Spit head._ Passed Portsmouth + Ryde, at the rate of 9 knots and how, which was doing remarkably well for a disabled Tuesday, October 3rd._ On board all day. Some talk of proceeding immediately home._ Wednesday, October 4th._ Cloudy and damp._ Tired of being on board ship, and not caring about dressing to go Hythe, a pretty littl e En glish village, situated on what used to be the Margin of the New Forest, o the ship in time for sea._ Thursday, Oct. 5th._ A strong wind blowing._ Went ashore almost immediately after breakfast, and while on in the world, and one of the most beautiful vessels. The hull is black, with two or three heavy gold bands running all around the sides with a cream coloured steam pipe._ The Officers were all in full dress in their cocked hats &c and the sailors wore the usual blue jackets and t arpaulins._ The Queen unfortunately was not on board, but I had the pleasure of a bow from her Mother, the Duchess of Kent, who with her ladies in waiting were on their way to London._ The royal car which was brought down to the dock, and from which to the boat a carpeted way was laid, was a most elaborate affair, but not withstanding all the painting and gilding, yet every thing was in good taste._ The interior was the very personification of comfort itself_ large arm chairs, with a handsome centre table c overed with books and beautiful flowers and a separate e and quiet._ The English never sacrifice comfort to show, and where the two can be combined the result is a masterpiece of luxury. After taking a walk, playing game or two of billiards, + making some little purchases, came on board ship._ Friday + Sat. Oct. 6th+7th._ Rain! Rain! Rain!_ Sunday, Oct. 8th._ Cool and Cloudy._ After dinner went ashore with Vanes, and landed in the d ocks alongside the Washington, on her way from Bremen to New York, stopping here for the mails._ Took a long walk out the Grand Avenue, and down a long shady lane towards Highfield._ Supped at the Star, and came aboard in a sail boat in a stiff breeze._ M onday, October 9th._ finished._ Found her roomy but not near so comfort able as our own ship, and hope that I will be one of the few fortunate ones who are to remain in their present Quarters._ The steerage is very low and a dark, and on acct. Of not being furnished, presents a very unattractive appearance._
12 Tuesday, Oct. 10th._ Made arrangements in the morning to mess with the engineers, and will therefore, state room, and I am now delightfully fixed, a large room to myself, with a standing bed, and plenty of drawers and shelves for my clothes._ In the afternoon went ashore, and for a wonder did so without paying 25c. each way for boat hire, the ship having got safely into the dry dock in in Southampton under the present circumstances._ Wednesday, Oct. 11th._ Took a walk in town, and took tea with a Southamptonian._ Thursday, Oct. 12th._ Early in the morning the Captain made up his mind to come out of the dock with the first high tid e and start for France, the injury the vessel had been supposed to hav e sustained, amounting to little or nothing._ Judging from this determination, that if I wished to see London no time was to be lost, I immediately applied for leave of absence which was granted me for five days, and in company with three others started from Southampton at 3 evident that we were near London, and in a few minutes we were whirling along on an immense brick viaduct some mile or two long, high over the tops o f the houses, the long gas lit str eets presenting from the cars a very singular aspect._ Getting out from the cars at a magnificent depot, we jumped into a cab, were soon on our way to the Piazza Hotel, Covent Garden._ On our way we passed many interesti ng objects, most of which I recognized from pictures that I had seen, _crossed Waterloo Bridge passed Somerset House, Drury Lane Theatre, and many other splendid buildings, all however, of a dingy smoky hue. Arriving at the Piazza, we were soon in very co mfortable rooms, for which however we are made to pay (1.62 1/2 for lodging and breakfast) and after washing + brushing up a little, we went out, and were soon promenading st in Cathedral._ T he darkness and fog however prevented our getting a view but of the outline, and never have I seen so large a building, so perfect in all its pro portions._ The ball is some 400 and odd feet from the ground, yet does not seem half as high as the spire of Salisbury which is only and had a delightful one t here for a moderate price, being waited upon by my beau ideal of a waiter, a very respectable looking person in a dress coat + white cravat._ Being tired, from the Friday, Oct. 13th._ veloped in a thick fog, and the sun looking like a ball of fir e, and of a deep red hue._ Went out at 8 to purchase some ink, and with great difficulty found a shop ope n at that early hour, and in the hall of the Hotel, stumbled across a porter only half awake._ After a very nice breakfast, we started for the Crystal Palace at Sydenham getting into an omnibus on the Strand and passing on our way to the Station on the oth er side of London Bridge, the Bank of England, Monument and several other interesting object._ Arriving at the depot, found a long train just starting, and having seated ourselves in the comfortable cars, were soon at the place of our destination._ The Pal ace is certainly the grandest object I have ever seen_ a quarter of a mile in length, a house of almost solid glass, and besides the Hyde Park Palace, extensive additions to it, it must always be one of the principal Lion s of London._ The Gardens are fille d with artificial streams and caves, with immense terraces covered with rare and beautiful flowers._ The interior of the
13 buildings defies descript ion, and the long view down the nave, with the costly fountains, magnificent statuary, and splendid flowers, is one that will never be effaced from my memory._ An immense Band, discoursed beautiful music, which was listened to by thousands, who looked like mere dots in the vast space._ The Egyptian and Assyrian Courts, are among the most beautiful and wonderful i n the Palace, and two figures, exact copies of two from a tomb near Thebes, and over a hundred feet high, occupy a conspicuous position._ In the Gardens is a lake, filled with imitations made with life like exactness of the mastodon and others of great mon sters of the world, both extin ct and at present in existence._ After a day which I can never forget, we took seats in the cars, and were soon at London Bridge, where we divided into 2 ow streets of Wapping on our way to the Tunnel._ Descending a shaft, some 70 ft. in depth, we entered the long gas lit sub aqueous cake + beer women,_ who have established themselves in little nooks + corners on every side._ About the centre of the tunnel was a little thing which attracted the attention of all viz; a hand organ worked by a little ste a m engine perfect in all its parts and keeping up a continuous sound of mel ody, if the music of a hand organ can be so called._ Returning to the Hotel, we dressed + visited during the evening Easter Hall, an immense music room, and the place in which Mrs. Saturday, Oct. 14th._ This morning, learnt wisdom by experience, and did not get up till 9, and when I did, and first looked out of the window, a very busy scene met my eye, it bei ng Market day in Covent Garden Market._ After breakfast we walked up the Strand to Trafalgar Square, a large space everything around, while on all sides were huge marble public building. The National Gallery & c._ Crossing over by Charring Cross, we continued on our way towards Westminster, passing by the Treasury, House Guards with the mounted dragoons on post and many fine buildings, all however of the dirty colou r which all stone assumes so soon under the thick foggy atmosphere of London._ But Westminster + the towers of the houses of Parliament were in view, and we a s ight burst upon the view, on entering the sacred walls the tombs of Jonson [sic] Milton, Pitt, and other great men of a modern day, on every side, _while back towards the Chapel of Henry VII were the tombs of many of the Royal Family of England._ The ceiling in the Chapel is of a most elaborate an d beautiful gothic style, carved out of solid stone, but looking so light and airy, that one can hardly bring the mind to believe it._ Among the royal tombs, those that most impressed me were those of Mary + E lisabeth, buried singularly together and Mary Queen of Scots._ In the shrine of Edward the Confessor is the old oaken chair, on which 24 sovereigns of England have been crowned, and which was last occupied by Victoria._ Under the seat is the celebrated sto ne from the Abbey of Scone, on w hich the Scottish King s were crowned._ The most beautiful monument by far in the Abbey is the Nightingale Monument, beautifully carve d in white marble almost the size of life and representing the husband shielding his wife f rom the approach of Death, who is aiming a dar t from a tomb below from which he is emerging._ From the Abbey we went to the New Houses of Parliament, and found there abundant to repay the by the Queen on the occasion of the opening of Parliament, and the House of Commons, w ere both splendid in a degree fa r exceeding anything in our own country, and the Towers with their elaborate carving almost equaled Westminster in beauty._ On our return the Officers who were there, and then jumping into an omnibus were soon at St. Pauls._ But this noble building has been so often described that I will not attempt it suffice it to say that we visited the crypt where w
14 Wellington, Nelson, and West, the Clock Tower, Whispering Gallery, and last though by no means least, went up into the ball 400 ft. from the ground. After partaking of a hasty dinner, we drove t ccadilly, Pall Mall, Hay Market &c and stopping at St. Jame s Park walked down to Buckingham Palace, and afterward passing up by Apsley House, the residen ce of the duke of Wellington, str nd duly admired the Serpentine & c._ The Regent Street, probably the finest street in the world, we turned down Oxford St and were soon at Madame Tussa u ds._ These wax works have attained a worldwide celebrity, and well do they deserve it._ The figures are lifelike and some of the female faces really beautiful, and in every case the position is perfectly natural._ The whole suite of rooms is furnished magnificently, and the figures are robed in real velvet + covered with real gold embroidery._ The Napoleon Room in particular is ful l of interest_it contains the veritable bed that he died on at St. Helena, besides Sunday, October 15th._ To a Londoner a fine day, to an American, a foggy, d amp disagreeable one._ Started at 1.20 P.M. for Hampton Court Palace above 12 miles from London, built by Cardinal Wolsey, and presented by him to Henry VIII ._ This is now one of the most beautiful spots that can be imagined and the beautiful avenues of g iant trees, more than a century old, are said to be the finest in England, while the fountains and artificial streams of water add to the landscape in such a manner as to make it almost a Paradise._ The interior is a succession of galleries full of the mo st magnificent paintings by the old masters._ All the woodwork is of solid oak, carved in the most elaborate style, and the ceiling of the Grand Hall is probably the finest of the kind in the world, plain but very beautiful, and with just enough gilding to give effect to the whole._ In one of the galleries are the Cartoons of Raphael, which were quite familiar to me on acct. of so many copies having been taken from them, and in another the celebrated paintings by Sir Peter Lily of the beauties of the Court of Charles II. One gallery was devoted to paintings by West, and I was glad to see b eemed [sic] to excite universal admiration._ The most prominent thing in the grounds is the Maze said to have been planned by Cardinal Wolsey himself and consisting of a su ccession of hedges and one within the other, but with turnings every way, in which you are to find your way to the center and then out again, altogether a most ingenious thing._ After spending a delightful day we took a light supper in the Strand, and retur Monday, October 16th._ A really beautiful day, with a clear blue sky._ In the morning started for the Zoological the immense plate glass windo ws with which it is lined._ After a pleasant walk of an hour, we arrived at the entrance of the Gardens, and paying out sixpence, were soon deep in admiration of the things around us._ The grounds are laid out with exquisite task, and the animals have ever y inducement offered them to believe that they are in their own nature wilds._ The department for the fish is altogether novel and beautiful_ they are enclosed in immense glass tanks sides and all of glass so that you are enabled to see them swimming both on top and at the bottom, and the bottom is filled with gravel and real moss, and sedge + other water plants are growing in full luminance_ From the Gardens we drove to the Tower passing on our way through Southfield Market, probably the largest castle Mar ket in the world, and arriving at this interesting spot, were shown over it by a very civil warder._ This is one of the most interesting spots I have visited; I stood in the spot where Lady Jane Grey was beheaded, visited the room where Sir Walter Raleigh was confirmed, and stood in the identical place in the very room where the princes were smothered, and where Queen Mary signed the d eath warrant of Lady Jane Grey. the Evening.
15 Tuesday, Oct. 17th._ everything worth seeing, yet it is a place so full of interest that I would have liked to have stayed there at least a month, and to have gone to Westminster, particularly, over and over again. Arrive at Southampton in the midst of a pouring rain, and got safely on board ship, where I was delighted to find two letters for me, one from home and one from Jimmy Hutchison at Berlin._ Unpacked + stowed my things away and retired early._ Wednesday, October 18th._ Went ashore in the afternoon for an hour or so, to make some little purchases. Thursday + Friday, Oct. 19th + 20th._ Saturday, Oct. 21st._ Went down in a steam boat to the Isle of Wight, for the purpose of having a few hours to ramble on that beautiful spot._ Landed a t Cowes, the famous place for yachts, and found it a but was unable to get into the grounds, however had a charming walk in the country, and returned at dus k to Southampton._ Sunday, Oct. 22nd._ Very chilly and a strong breeze blowing._ On board all day._ Monday, Oct. 23rd. Clear and fine._ Capt. S. left for London_ could not help wishing I was in his place._ On board all day._ Tuesday, Oct. 24th._ Ra iny and disagreeable._ A pleasant alternation of eating, smoking, reading + writing._ Much in want of a good fire and a hot whiskey punch._ Thursday, Oct. 26th._ Went on shore for the purpose of taking exercise, and succeeded in spite of several hours of Friday, Oct. 27th._ A repetition of Wednesday._ Saturday, Oct. 28th._ Spent all day in Southampton, and promenaded up down High Street 33 times._ Saw nothing interesting however, with the exception of two very pretty girls, and a new style of winter boots._ Sunday, Oct. 29th to Sunday Nov. 5th Went ashore several times + took a long walk on Friday in the New Forest._ On
16 Sunday, Nov. 5th._ M r. Soule arrived at Southampton, and announced his intention of accepting the go there to meet him._ Several got permission to go to Paris + meet the ship at Borde aux, and I fortunately am among the number._ Much excit ed in consequence + unable to sleep much during the night._ Monday Nov. 6th_ Went ashore immediately after breakfast and procured my ticket to Paris, and my passport, and also secured my berth on boa rd the steamer for Havre, which is to leave at Midni ght._ Went on board the Hermann, just arrived from Bre men and bound for New York, and met unexpectedly with a young gentleman of Phil. A Dr. Lynch, who is the Surgeon._ Took dinner with him + had a very p leasant time._ Tuesday, Nov. 7th._ After a smooth pleasant passage across the Channel, arrived at Havre; where I was detained some time by the horrid Custom House Agents, who quietly inspected every article in my valise, not excepting this book._ Met wit h a very pleasant gentleman on board the Havre strange country;_ the rest of the part I forgot to mention having gone via London, which I could not afford._ Found Havre a clean pleasant town, with immense docks, filled with vessels of the largest site, amongst which I recognized many from America._ My Frenche proved of infinite service to me, and I had no idea I could converse so well till I was forced to attempt i t, where I found that the words slipped out almost as easily as when talking English.: necessity + a slight knowledge of the language will soon make a perfect scholar in any one._ At 5 P.M. started from Havr e to Paris, and were soon at Rou en where the trai n visited some time, allowed me to get a glimpse of the magnificent Cathedral._ At 11 arrived at Paris, me judice (next to New York of course ) the finest city in the world, and drove to the Hotel des Princes, Rue Richelieu, and tired out was soon fast in t he arms of the dream y god._ The French Hotels are far better than the English I think, and this one seemed to be a particularly fine one._ One thing struck me immediat ely, and that was the highly wax ed and polished oaken floors, and the halls laid with tiles, up to the very tip of the house._ Wednesday, November 8th._ Awoke feeling as usual, but soon the new feeling awoke in me that I was in Paris._ Dressed leisurely and breakfasted about 9 and then went in search of Mr. Murray and the others, and fo und them a few rooms from me, and just at breakfast._ Mr. Murray kindly invited me to join his party, which I gladly accepted, and after breakfast we set out in a splendid cal che to see as much of Paris as our limited time would allow._ We first drove to the Louvre, de Carrouss el, and crossing the narrow Seine, proceeded immediately to R u e Luxembourg._ Here are two fine Galleries, one of most beautiful paint ings by Modern artists, and the other of Engravings, among which in a conspicuous place was a large one of Washington crossing the Delaware._ The Senate C h amber is arranged like ours at Wash. And is not near so gaudy as the English House of Lords, but is i n much better taste_ the sides are set with panels of large and beautiful statues of some of the great statesmen of France._ The Salle de la Comomie, where the gr and ball given by the Senate to the Emperor took place, is magnificent in the extreme, almost one mass of what might be called gold embroidery, and when lighted up, I think could almost cast the sun in the shade._ After leaving the Palace we pas he magnificent Jardin du Luxembourg, and came to the statue of Mar sh. Ne y, erected on the spot
17 where he fell; but to me it looked out of proportion._ The Imperial Manuf. o f Gobelin Tapes. we next visited, and here were obliged to show our passports befor e we could be admitted, and here besides the many beautiful pieces which were finished, all fully equal to the finest paintin g s, we were shown the operatives at work, a seemingly almost endless task._ The Pantheon we next drove to, with its beautiful dome, and in company with a gend rme who in Fra nce accompanies every one every where, visited the vaults below, and among the many tombs, the most magnificent and conspicuous were those of Rousseau + Voltaire._ The Jardin des Plantes corresponding to the Zoological Gardens in Regent Park, was next on our list, and though everything is on a grand scale, yet it was not equal in my estimation to the one at London, particularly in regard to the laying out and keeping in order of the path s and shrubbery, but it is seen, to great disadvantage at this season of the year._ Thence by a long and circuitous route we drove to Notre Dame, passing by La Morgue, which however was empty, and spent an hour in examining the church and the magnificent r obes worn by the priests with which it is filled._ The church itself is a magnificent edifice and is at present undergoing extensive repairs, as indeed is the case with almost everything in Paris._ An hour or two of the day still being left, we passed it i n driving through the principal streets amon g which I may mention particularly the Rue de Rivoli, nearly the whole of which has been pulled down and rebuilt within the last two o r three year s and nearly the whole of which is a succession of magnificent ar cades like the Q uadrant in Regent St._ Partook at 6 P.M. for the first time of a French Dinner at th e Table e of our Hotel, which was magnificently served in a long hall, the copy of one at the Chambre, and was both amused and delighted._ Indeed I am beginning to think that the Americans are much in need of missionaries on the subject of Hotel dinners, the only drawback to the Diner a la Francais being the length of time that it takes, for our plates must have been changed at least 15 times, and every time some more delicacy was served._ In the evening we went to the Grand Opera, the most magnificent Theatre I have ever visited, and capable of holding I should think some 6 or 7000 persons, and heard La Nonn e Sanglante, a French opera, with but little fine music, and after a midnight walk in the still full and brilliant Boulevards retired, tired + almost worn out._ Thursday, Nov. 9th._ Weather a la Lourdes, clear cloudy and rainy in turn._ Drove first to P re La Chaise [sic], but was disappointed in the grounds but not in the monuments, many of the latter being magnificent and among the most conspicuous I may notice the tomb of Abelard and Heloise and the Countess Demidoff._ The ground s however are wan ting in that pictu res queness [sic] which renders all our American Cemeteries so beautiful, but the situation is very fine, commanding a magnificent view of Paris + t he surrounding country._ From P re la Chaise we d rove to the Hotel des Invalides passing on our way many int eresting objects, th Den s & c, and were soon standing before the tomb of napoleon the Great._ This is the most splendid thing of the king that has ever been erected + in the centre of the marble floor and immediately under the do me, a large space is sunk a circle some 60 ft. in diameter + 20 deep, and in the centre of this is the sarcophagus composed of a red Russian granite, and carved and polished most magnificently._ The sides of this immense well, are composed o f the finest It alian Marble, with twelve Marble statues, double the size of life, represented as weeping over the ashes of the Emperor._ The floor is composed of marble, beautifully inlaid so as to represent an immense star, in the centre of which stands the tomb, and al ong the edges of which are the names of the principal battles he was the victor._ We next called on Mr. Mason, the American Minister, and having finished our visit passed some two or three hours in driving through the Campes Elysees and ne._ The former is the most magnificent avenue I have ever seen._ Extending in a straight line for miles with its immense sidewalks + rows of one continuous stream of splendid equipages, it forms a sight unapproachable for magnificence
18 beautiful winding roads filled always with the Parisians who are never happy unless out o f doors, and indeed I think they are in a great degree excusable, for one can never tire of viewing asure of hearing Rachel in Moli lay of Polyerick. She is certainly a most surprising woman, and most probably the greatest actress in existence._ On the stage she does not appear over 25 or 30 yrs. of age, while it is said she is 50, and her voice is remarkably fine, as also her eyes._ Finished the evening at the Valentino, one of the mag nificent public ball rooms for which Paris is so celebrated._ Friday, November 10 th ._ the country, passing on our way St. Germain, St. Cloud and Sevres, and obtain ing from the high ground on which the Rail Road is built, a magnificent view of Paris._ Arriving at Versailles, the first thing we visited was the Grand Trianon and suite of appartments [sic] occupied by Louis Phillippe, a long suite of rooms, with masterp ieces of art on every side, and vases 3 or 4 feet high o f S attached, and th ence we proceeded to the Grand Palace._ But words cannot describe the extent and magnificence of this, the finest Palace most probably in the world; suite after suite of apartments were visited, all filled with chef v res by celebrated artists, among w hich I may mention the immense paintings by [Claude Joseph] Vernet. The apartments of many of the Sover e igns of France were shown to us by the guide, and the suite of rooms built for and occupied by Marie Antoinette, furnished with everything that luxury and art can devise._ The Grounds are laid out with great taste and in a style of unrivalled magnificen ce, statues, fountains eau at every turn, and from one point, a view of 20 miles around the country can be obtained._ After returning to Paris, a nd doi ng a little shopping in the Palais Royal, I dressed and who was quite a belle in Philadelphia last winter, and who is at present living with Mr. Buchannon, h er uncle, at the Embassy in London._ and in the evening went with her, Mrs. Mason + Miss Mason for the Opra Comi gne._ Saturday, November 11 th ._ My last day in Paris,_spent in walking through the Boulevards Palais Royal + Rue de Rivoli, admiring the joli es demoiselles with which the streets were crowded, and the many beautiful things in the splendid shop windows of these, the principal promenades of Paris._ Forgot to mention that on Thursday I visited The Madeleine, one of the principal churches in the city, the interi or of which was magnificent in the extreme, but I should think it would be difficult to feel even decently respectful inside of it, for covered as it is with tinsel and gold, it bears by far a greater resemblance to a Theatre than a House dedicated to the worship of God._ Left our cards P.P.C at Mr. Masons, dined at the celebrated Maison D or seats in the cars for Bordeaux, a ride of 480 miles._ Sunday, November 12 th ._ to the Hotel de France where we heard news that made me feel rather uncomfortable, vis: that the ship had not arrived, having been detained at Southampton two days longer than expected._ Now Bordeaux would no doubt be a delig htful place to stop a week with plenty of
19 money, but unfortunately our stock is very low, and mind particularly so, 5 francs being my all, so I have every reason to be downhearted._ However we will have to make the best of it, for it + found it quite a pretty city, about the size of Baltimore, and with an immense amount of shipping._ In the evening I am so rry to say, did as the Bordeaux ians did, + went to the Grand Theatre, one of the largest and most magnificent if not the largest in the world, and heard Monday, November 13 th ._ A pleasant day._ Heard in the morning that an American Frigate was moved at the mouth of the Garonne, some 50 miles distant, but as we are not perfectly certain that it is the San Jacinto, do not intend changing our quarters until some news that can be depended upon arrives._ Have not as yet been able to breakfast a la Francais, they nev er dr inking coffee, but always t aking oysters and wine at their morning meal_ The oysters, I may also mention are vile, perfect pickled pennies ._ In the evening received a visit from Mr. Bowen the American Consul. Tuesday, November 14 th ._ Heard in the Morning that the San Jacinto had really arrived, and so are to start at 1 P.M. for Pauillac, a small town some 3 0 miles from Bordeaux, where the sh ip will most probably arrive to morrow._ Fortunately there is some money in the party, and Dr. Fo x immediately told me that he would make all r ight._ Arrived at Pauillac after a pleasant sail through an interesting and quite pretty country, in which we passed through many quite celebrated places, a t least in the minds of wine drinker s, such as St. Est ephe St. Jullien, Chateau Lefitte & c._ The ship not yet arrived, and consequently put up at the Hotel de Commerce for the night._ Wednesday, November 15 th ._ Col d and disagreeable._ The ship ho made all our preparations for going aboard, which feat we accomplished in safety._ Retired early according to the usual custom when on board. Thursday November 16 th ._Friday The Captain suddenly decided to go up to Bordeaux much to the delight of the Officers who had bank, so that in some places we seemed to almost be in a Canal, and as we s teamed along, the first American man of War which had ever been in these waters, people came running to the bank in all directions, and we were evidently looked upon as quite a curiosity._ Arrived at Bordeaux just after sunset, and anchored just off the to wn and within a hundred yards of the shore._ Bordeaux from the water is said to be very much like New Orleans, built as it is in the form of a crescent, with a large levee all along the water front of the town._ The streets are very wide and some of the pu blic buildings + residences very handsome, and it is the pet city of the present Emperor being the place where he was first declared._ Retired early._ Saturday, November 18 th ._ Early in the morning saluted the French Flag with 21 guns, which was returned by a small war steamer in the stream._ The San Jacinto being the First American man of war, and indeed the first war vessel of any size ever at Bordeaux, attracted a great deal of attention, and
20 soon after breakfast visitors began to stream over the sides in crowds, giving everybody plenty to do in showing around and explaining as well as the generally limited know ledge of the officers in cocked hats and epaulettes, and with a salute of 17 guns;_ The crowds of well dressed ladies on the quarter deck, and the glitter of the gold lace on the uniforms, imparting to the whole scene quite a brilliant effect._ Mr. Soule us a very fine looking man, something like Webster an d a great deal like Napoleon, and possessed of a great deal of dignity, and very quiet and reserved in his manners:+ his son who is at present with his Father, but who will go by land to Madrid, is one of the pleasantest young gentlemen that it has ever be en my good fortune Soule and the Officers of the ship, and luxuriated in the French cooking of which I have become passionately fond._ One thing I may mention w hich occurred at the dinner + that is a toast given by Mr. S. which struck all as being very appropriate, and containing a great deal in a few words, Arrived on boa Sunday, November 19 th ._ jour de fet e morning to night with strangers, many of whom from their excited faces no doubt expected to see real American Indians ._ Saluted Prefe c t of the Province of Gironde, in which Bordeaux is situated, the city itself being the head quarters of the Girondists and the S t. Gen. of Artillery, the commanding officers of the town._ Left the ship as early as possible and walked through the principal streets and squares of the city, alive with people, and enlivened by the m u sic of several excellent Bands._ In the evening was one of some 20 or 30 officers who accompanied es Huguenots and got Monday, November 20 th ._ Started from Bordeaux early in the morning + anchored for the night off Richard in the Gir onde._ Tuesday + Wednesday._ Nov. 21 st + 22 nd ._ In the Bay of Biscay._ Weather disagreeable an d sea rough._ Lost another propeller blade. Thursday Novermber 23rrd._ The coast of Spain in sight._ In the evening just before dark got a pilot and entered the harbor of Santander._ Several high mountains, the tops cov ered with snow, back of the town._ Friday, November 24 th ._ A clear beautiful day._ Santander is beautifully situated at the extremity of a well protected harbor and enclosed and encircled on all sides with high mountains, the Asturian range, many of them perfectly white with snow, and when glistening in the sun + reflected against the clear blue sky, presenting to me a novel and most magnificent sight._ On board all
21 day._ At 3 received the Commandante of the town and saluted him with 13 guns. Mr. Soule to ok his official leave of the ship in the afternoon._ Saturday, November 25 th ._ have often heard a Spanish town described to be with high houses, and balconies to every st ory, ve ry narrow and dirty streets, laz y looking people, and immeasurable and excessively importunate beggars._ The qu ay in front of the town is very wide + well built, and about the only redeeming feature, + the houses along the whole water front are very large and substantial looking._ The men are a pale sallow looking set, but the higher classes are remarkably well and fashionably dressed, and the lower, especially those from the country are habited in every variety of fancy costume._ The women never w ear bonnets, but instead a black veil thrown with a studi e d carelessness + in a very coquettish manner over the head, and looking infinitely padres long black cloaks and immense hats,_presenting to the stranger quite a formidable Fonda de principal one, tho cuisine particularly good, but differing in every respect from ours_ thick, and eaten by means of thin slices of sponge cake dipped in the cup._ In the evening heard some sweet singing in the parlor of the Hotel, and some very fine piano forte music and came off in the bar ge._ Sunday, November 26 th ._ A beautiful day._ Went ashore in the morning and visited the Cathedral, which however was nothing remarkable, and afterwards walked through the principal streets and the Paseo,_ coming off to dinner._ In the afternoons went ashore again, and took a long walk over the hills + on the beach._ Monday November 27 th ._ [no entry] Tuesday, November 28 th ._ On board all day._ Nothing occurred._ Wednesday + Thursday, Nov. 29 th +30 th Wind blowing hard, and weather variable._Went on shore once + took a short walk to stretch my limbs._ Friday December 1 st ._ Went ashore in the afternoon and played several games of Billiards at the Hotel._ Saturday, December 2 nd Cold + disagreeable_On board all day._
22 Sunday + Monday, Dec. 3 rd + 4 th ._ Showed some Spanish ladies round the ship + got a kiss at parting._ Mr. Buchanan not yet returned from Madrid._ Dreadfully tired of Santander._ Tuesday, December 5 th ._ 2._ A charming day._ Wednesday, December 6 th to Dec. 12 th At sea._ While in the Bay of Biscay, very rough and disagreeable weather, but when around Cape Finisterre a fine fair wind, the ship going 9 & 10 knots an hour._ Monday, December 11 th ._ a few miles only from Cape Trafalgar, where the memorable battle was fought in which the English were victorious under Nelson._ Passing the Cape we entered the Straits of Gibraltar and passed close enough to the Moorish coast to enable me to get a glimpse of the Moorish ill, which with Gibraltar forms the two pillars of Hercules, The Rock particularly as bearing a resemblance to an imme nse lion, cou chant and I afterwards learnt that this impression was frequently conveyed to the minds of others._ Tuesday, December 12 th ._ The loveliest day we have had since we left the U.S._ the blue Mediterranean like a sheet of glass, and the water as transparent as crystal._ Saluted the town and the consul, and the crew occupied in moving the ship + anchoring her in a better place._ Gibraltar is charmingly situated to my fancy, for though the town is built or rather terraced at the base of the rock, yet to me the mere circumstance of the high wall overshadowing the bright cheerful looking houses and little green spots, scattered here and there, make it by far the prettiest + most interesting town we have yet visited._ Around the bay in sheltered litt le nooks lie several very pretty looking Spanish villages, and the back ground of high mountains, far and near produces a very pretty effect._ On board all day._ Wednesday, December 13 th ._ time I landed till the time I left the Mole at sunset of this celebrated fortress._ Immediately on landing after passing several large water batteries, which would effectually prevent the entrance to the town being approached by means of boats, you enter the market place, through a ponderous gate + draw bridge which is regularly closed every evening at sunset, and passing through a large open square which is surrounded by barracks, enter Westport S t. the principal street of the town._ On every side + at almost every corner sentries are posted and one third at least of those that you meet in the streets are soldiers;_
23 The rest of the inhabitants seem to be representatives from all parts of the world; Moors, Jews, Arabs, Spaniards, English, all in the characteristic garb of their country, meet you at every step, and what with the difference of feature + color, and the confusion of tongues it is a second Babel. After looking at some Moorish curiosities, we proceeded to the other end of the town to the Parade Ground a beautiful piece of level ground, used for the purpose its name indicates foot of this mountain of rock, with oranges + lemons growing in full luxuriance, + well laid out tast el y [?] paths, with neat little summer houses perched wherever a good view is to be obtained._ What a difference between this place and our own country at the same season! Here a bright, genial sun, with hot house plants growing freely on every side, + overcoats e ntirely out of the question, and there the cold, drizzling, disagreeable weather so common in December, with everybody muffled up to the ears, + wishing the season of snow + slush was over!_ After a short rest in the gardens, we ascended by long, circuitou s + tiresome paths to the Signal Station on the top point of the rock, where we had a magnificent view on the one side of Algeciraz Bay + the coast of Spain, with the Atlantic in the far distance and on the other of the blue Mediterranean + Catal an Bay, wi th the commencement of the Atlas range of mountains extending back from the shores of Africa, while immediately below, at the foot of an almost perpendicular precipice of 1400 ft. lay a little Catalan fishing village, said to be the one mentioned in Dumas novel of Monte Cristo._ After descending, we partook of a good dinner at Thursday, December 14 th ._ some very g ood music from one of the Garrison Bands which was practicing there._ Made the acquaintance of a Moor from Timbuctoo, Hagge Said Guesus by name, a very handsome negro, and bought several Moorish curiosities from him._ This negro has nearly 200 pages allott Yacht, and is said by him to be one of the greatest curiosities of Gibraltar._ Came on board as necessity required, at sunset._ Friday, December 15 th ._ Went ashore ear ly after breakfast, and in company with Mr. Follansbee, the Chief greatness of this undertaking and, the time it must have required to carry it out, and it is no wonder that the Moors for two centuries according to tradition, mourned having lost this their greatest strong [of] the solid rock, with portholes, hundreds of feet above the sea, at every few steps, from many of which the view to be obtained was truly magnificent.+ Perhaps the greatest curiosity in the excavations, is St. a fine smooth fl oor, + portholes + canvas all around._ This Hall is used, our guide informed us by the inhabitants as a ball room, during the intense heat of summer on account of its always having a current of fresh air passing through it._ We also visited another of the curiosities of the bewildering passages + running far into the heart of the rock._ Took dinner at the Club House Hotel, and came off at the usual time._
24 Saturday, December 16 th On board all day._ Sunday, Dec. 17 th ._ A strong wind blowing all day_ boats prevented from going ashore._ Monday, December 18 th ._ Went ashore in the afternoon and saw several companies of Highlanders Parade to the music of their national instrument the bagpipe._ Made several purchases + came off at Sunset._ Tuesday, Dec. 19 th ._ On board all day._ Wednesday, Dec. 20 th ._ At 5 A.M. got underway and stood down the Straits, against a heavy head wind + strong current._ At dusk the Moorish coast was dim ly seen in the distance. Thursday, Dec. 21 st [no entry] Friday, Dec. 22 nd ._ At sea._ Under sail all the time._ Saturday, Dec. 23 rd ._ At 11 A.M. made the Island of Porto Santo, one of the Madeira group, and soon were abreast of it, and at one Madeira was plainly seen ahead._ Passed along by the eastern side of the island which from its appearance, gave proof of its volc anic origin, and rounding Brazen Nose point, were in full view of Funchal._ Just ahead of where we intended anchoring lay the Constitut ion, the Flag Ship of the African Squadron, at present here for the purpose of recruiting._ But alas, the pleasant Christmas we had all anticipated spending on this lovely island, proved to be a mere dream, for unfortunately we were quarantined for 5 days, was not a case of sickness on board, simply on acct. of our having been last at a Mediterranean Port,_ and as the Captain would not wait so long, idling in the harbor, with much disappointment we all heard the word given to proceed to sea._ Fro m the water, Madeira is really a lovely spot, even at this season of the year, and I shall never be able to think of it without a great feeling of disgust. t which for places I would much have liked to visit were all pointed out to me._ The greatest disappointment to circumstance of my being unable to procure any of the fine wines, or beau tiful feather flowers + shawls for which the Island is so famous._
25 Sunday, Dec. 24 th ._ At sea all day. Weather warm + pleasant._ Monday, December 25 th ._ Christmas day! How many thoughts; how many recollections of home does it bring up!_ And how differe nt this Christmas from the last_ Then among my dearest and b est friends on earth, and now comparatively among strangers, on the bosom of the broad Atlantic, thousands of miles from Philadelphia, and several hundred from the nearest land, the inhospitable c oast of Africa._ Kept Christmas as well as we were able by means of a good dinner, and a couple of bottles of wine, but unfortunately on acct. of having no eggs were unable to make any eggnog._ A beautiful day_ The ocean like a sheet of glass._ Tuesday, D ec. 26 th Jan. 1 st 1855 In the doldrums i.e. becalmed for the most of the time, and as we were in no hurry + the weather was delightful, did not steam._ Monday, January 1 st 1855 New Years day!_ The ocean smooth + but little wind._ Dined in the Cabin with the Captain._ At night, notwithstanding that all the air ports were out, suffered much with the heat, and several of the Officers preferred keeping on deck + trying to keep cool, to roasting below._ Tuesday Jan. 2 nd ._to Jan. 14 th At sea_ Nothing worthy of note._ Sunday, January 14 th ._ Ran along the Western shore of the Island e Pt. and went along the eastern shore._ Passed Diamond Rock, a large pointed Rock standing some 4 or 5 yds. from the main shore, alone and covered with the most beautiful abreast of the harbor of Port Royal, near which place the Empress Josephine was born, and at about 6 dropped anchor abreast of the town of St. Pierre._ Monday, January 15 th ._ Rose early + went on deck to get a view of the town from the ship + breathe the delightful morning air._ The Island looked most beautifu l, covered with the rich tropical vegetation,_ while the immense fields covered with sugar cane, which is of the lightest yet most brilliant green imaginable, proved a most agreeable change to the unbroken view of sea + sky which had afflicted our vision f or nearly a month past._ Went asho agreeably disappointed in the town, which we found to be quite large, very clean + with abundance of clear sparkling streams of water + immeasurable fountains on all sides._ The
26 sight of which was pa rticularly grateful to us, who for more than 25 days have been limited to our gallon a day, and that none of the purest ._ Took a walk along the beach, and a short distance in the country, and saw innumerable trees that were new to me + all covered with fru it among which I may mention the Cocoanut, breadfruit, mango & heard of before, and at sundown came aboard._ During the whole day, especially in the sun, the heat was intense, fully equal to our July weather in Philadelphia._ During the afternoon the Tuesday, January 11 th ._ The morning so hot that I found it pleasanter to stay on board ship smoking + reading under the forecastle awning._ Went ashore in the afternoon with Mitchell + took a pleasant walk in the country._ The oranges here are the finest I have ever seen, and seem to be almost the staple article of food_ they are fully three times as large as those we get at home and taste almost like a different fruit plucked as they are fresh from the tree._ They are generally eaten rd in the sundown boat._ Wednesday, January 17 th ._ On board all day._ Thursday, January 18 th ._ opera._ The Theatre is situated on top of quite a high hill, commanding a fine view of the Carribbean [sic] Sea, and is a well ventilated but by no means a handsome building. The Opera was the of [Daniel] Aub er, full of beautiful music, but badly rendered with one exception only; the Governor, + many both of our officers and those from the French Frigate were present. Friday, January 19 th ._ Started from Martinique at daylight, and had a gentle breeze all day._ Passed the Islands of Dominica + Guadaloupe._ Saturday, January 20 th ._ At sea._ Noth ing occurred._ Sunday, January 21 st ._ the Harbour of St. Thomas._
27 Monday, Jany. 22 nd Clear, with a delightful breeze._ In the afternoon took the dingey with a party,+ went fishing, but found rowing about so pleasant that we gave up the idea with which we had started + instead explored the little nooks + corners in the bay._ A Dutch sloop of war + an English Corvette came in just before sundown._ Tuesda y, January 23 rd ._ P.M. anchored in the Harbour of Fredrickstadt_ The water th ough 50 ft. deep clear as crystal, every object on the bottom plainly seen._ Wednesday, January 24 th ._ Martinique._ Found the town much smaller but much cleaner and more attrac tive looking than St. Pierre, and laid off regularly in squares like Philadelphia._ The fort is beautiful spot at the end of the Town, almost completely hid among the trees, and near a very small but very pretty little lake._ Dined at the Hotel + came off at sundown._ Thursday, January 25 th ._ On board all day._ Friday, January 26 th ._ Went on shore in the morning and in com pany with Mr Murray + Heilesware [?] p aid several visits + mad e the acquaintance of a really beautiful young lady, a Miss Gyllick._ Heard some delightful music on the piano, which made me think a great deal of my dear Mother, several of the pieces being those which I have often heard her play._ In the evening went to a small party at Mr. Goulds + with dancing + talking passed my time m ost agreeably._ Came on board about 12._ Saturday, January 27 th ._ much success._ Sunday, January 28 th ._ Went ashore early in order to attend church, + heard quite a g ood sermon in the neat + cool little Episcopal Church of Frederickstadt, which was a great treat to me, not having been able to attend and Episcopal church for so long a time._ Paid two or three visits + in the af ternoon in company with Mr. Dut of the Island, Jackson + Barnes took a long ride on horseback in the country, passing through several large sugar estates and having an opportunity of seeing the way in which the juice of the cane is ground out ._ Rode back to the Hotel by moonlight and ca
28 Monday + Tuesday 29 th + 30 th ._ On board all day._ Wednesday, January 31 st ._ Steamer Fulton arrived from St. Thomas, and many of the Officers on board._ Went on shore in the afternoon, paid several visits among them to Miss Haldeman of Philad a, and Thursday, January [sic] 1 st ._ Some 20 or 30 ladies visited the ship, + among them was Mrs. Dr. Horwitz, formerly Miss C. Norris of Philada._ Had a collation in t he Ward Room + altogether had a delightful two or three miles, and in the Evening went to quite a l arge Party at Maj. Gyllichs._ Ca me on Friday, February 2 nd ._ Paid my far e well visits with great regret + took a ride to the country, a most beautiful spot, where I was shown all the operations of making sugar molasses + rum._ Came on board late in the afternoon._ Thomas._ Saturday, February 3 rd ._ consequently remained on board all day._ Sunday, February 4 th ._ Went ashore in the afternoon + found the town much larger than I expected + a really magnificent Hotel, where for the first time since I left Europe, I tasted the luxury of a glass of ice water The business str eet of St. Thomas abounds in handsome + substantial stores, which in conseq uence of its being a free port, are filled with merchandise from all parts of the world, and an air of bustle + activity pervades the street s reminding me much of one of our own small seaport town s ._ The bay is large, with a good depth of water, and comple tely shut in by land on all sides so as to be perfectly secure from the effects of strong winds, and with the exception perhaps of the Harbour of Havana, is, I believe the finest in the West Indies._ The town is built on three hills + in the valleys betwee n + from the water present s a very pretty appearance._ Took a delightful warm bath, sat for an hour or so in the pleasant breeze on the piazza of the Hotel. I came off at sundown._ Monday, February 5 th Went ashore, made several purchases, took a pleasan t walk + came off to sea._
29 Tuesday, Wednesday, + Thursday._ At sea._ Delightful weather._ On Thursday morning along the Southern coast of Hayti [sic]._ Friday, February 9 th ._ Early in the morning arrived off the city of St. Domingo._ I found this a ver y interesting place._ The city has at present a population of som [sic] 15 or 20,000 inhabitants, and is one of the oldest looking towns I have ever seen + full of ruins, some of which have quite an air of grandeur about them._ It is situated at the mouth of the River Ozama, on a low sandy piece of coast, and according to my opinion a miserable site for a large city._ Among other interesting spots, I was shown the House in which Columbus lived, the once magnificent Cathedral, now a mass of ruins, + the Towe r in which Columbus was confined._ There are very few white residents, and the population is composed almost entirely of negroes with a few mulattoes, + the city seems to be gradually falling to decay._ When off the Harbour, we were boarded by a negro lieu tenant, in full uniform to whom the same honours were paid, in coming over the side & c, as would have have [sic] been paid to one of our own officers._ Finding that there was nothing to cause us to remain, we left just before dark, and when some 6 or 8 mil es from the c ity oop of War, just going in._ Saturday Feb. 10 th 15 th ._ At sea._ On Sunday the 11 th ._a heavy squall struck us_ship behaved nobly._ On Wednesday morning made the Island of Jamaica._ Friday, Feb. 16 th 19 th ._ At sea._ On Saturday turtle weighing some 250 pounds, from which there was compounded some delicious soup which I partook of with great satisfaction of the next day._ Monday, February 19 th ._ ock made land ahead + at 12 were abreast of Man Key + within sight of Sand Key Light, when how can I commit the dreadful words to paper, we lost the only remaining blade of our propeller! Fortunately for us however, there was a favorable breeze at the t ime, so that we were enabled to sail into the harbor of Key West._ Tuesday, February 20 th ._ Off Key West + for the first time in several months before one of our own ports._ A cold North wind blowing, but to me fa r more agreeable than the sultry roasting weather to which for the last month been exposed._ Went ashore in the afternoon + walked through the town, which I found much larger than I expected._ visited the lighthouse + took a stroll on the beach._ Wednesday, Feb. 21 st 26 th ._
30 Off Key West._ Went ashore nearly every afternoon + made the acquaintance of four letters much to my joy, having heard but once since I left Gibraltar._ A New Orleans Steamer also stopped some 15 minutes on her way to New York, but had not time to write by her._ Monday, February 26 th ._ [no entry] Tuesday, February 27 th ._ + found both very pleasant families._ The former is a Virginian + says he has often dined with us in Norfolk, and used to know Aunt C. very well. Wednesday, February 28 th ._ Hauled out + anchored just below the Fort_ detained by weather._ Thursday, Marc h 1 st ._ Left Key West at 4 P.M. for Havana with a splendid breeze in our favor._ Friday, March 2 nd ._ almost immediately after + were soon at anchor in the magnificent Bay._ The entrance to the nked on one side by the Moro, & on the other by another Fort with batteries of immense guns, so that in time of war, entrance from the sea would be altogether im perhaps the eighth of a mile, you enter upon the magnificent bay, filled with shipping of all nations._ Several vessels of war were at anchor, among them two or three Spaniards + an English Frigate._ Fro m the water the city appears to the eye very much like the scene of a theatre; the peculiar build of the houses with their bright colors, blue, yellow + white + the singular looking volantes going along th e qu ay, looking far more like a painting than reali ty._ Went ashore in the afternoon + threading the narrow dirty streets of the city within the walls, + passing by the way the old church of the Inquisition, were soon at the Dominica, the principal restaurant + lounging place of Havana._ Here after regalin g ourselves with an iced cobbler we lined a volante c, stopping on the way at the Banking House of Messes. Aoof Spalding + Co where I got my draft checked* without difficulty._ In the Paseo there were some 2 or 3000 citizens drilling, the city being under martial law, and from appearances everywhere, trouble seemed to be expected. The roads outside the walls are most beautiful older, and lighted along the whole length and near the city with statues + fountains, at every crossing._ In t he evening walked in the Plaza de Armas + listened to the delightful music *cashed (Note from the author). Saturday, March 3 rd Went ashore in one of the pretty co vered little boats which ply about the Harbour._ Passed the afternoon shopping in the Calle de Mercaderes, Calle del Obispo & c, + made
31 several pretty purchases getting along quite well by signs + by making use of the little Spanish I have picked up._ Bough t some very fine cigars from Cabarga, the great Tobacco Merchant, + spent the Evening between the Dominica + the Plaza de Armas._ Sunday, March 4 th ._ Had Divine Service performed on board in the morning by an English Clergyman who came on board on a vis it._ Hon. Hamilton Fish, Mr. + Mrs. Long (a daughter of David Paul Brown of Philad a) + several other ladies + gentlemen on board._ Went ashore directly after service, and found all the shops open, Music playing & c as on other days, + as this was our last d ay we had still much to see, followed the Example of the Havanese._ After refreshment at the Dominica, hir a a most beautiful spot, but sadly in want of attention_ indeed everything abo ut it going to destruction._ Returning had just time to jump into an omnibus + get to the Bull Ring before the Fight commenced._ The ring is a space some 150 ft. in diameter, with little screens all around behind which the bull fighters retreat in time of danger._ This space is perfect ly open, and all around are tier s of seats, covered from the weather + e nding at the top in private boxes in which I was sorry to see many ladies + among other distinguished persons, in a most conspicuous place was Concha the Captain General of the Island._ The brutal sport commenced by the entrance of the matador e s + toreador e s on foot + the picador e s on horseback the former merely with their yellow + scarlet cloaks + the latter with a long barbed lance, all however, in dresses of the most splendid description._ Having taken their places, a door at the end of the ring was thrown open + small but fierce + wiry looking bull rushed out + confronted his enemies.+ The first part of the amusement seemed to be merely in annoying the poor animal, by enraging him by means of the flaming cloaks + then driving him off by well directed thrusts of the lance, and aft er some few minutes of this, which I need not say was loudly applauded, a new species of torment was devised for the unfortunate beast ._ Barbed darts, some with fire crackers attached, + others without, were thrown in + about his neck, and while the Bull w as rushing about, bellowing + paving the ground with fury + in vain endeavoring to drive his enemies from the field, the ladies clapped their hands + the gentlemen shouted + even throw their hats in the ring, so great was their enthusiasm._ At last when th e poor animal was nearly exhausted + covered with blood from his many wounds, the head matadore advanced upon him armed with a long sharp sword, + after some few moments spent in waiting his opportunity, succeeded in thrusting it up to the hilt in a spot n ear his fore shoulder, where the bull dropped down dead, as if he had been shot._ Four horses, gaily caparisoned, then entered the ring, + being attached to the body, pulled it around + then out by a side door, amid the enthusiastic applause of the assembl ed multitude._ In this way several bulls were killed, and the only thing I saw to admire in the whole performance, was the agility displayed by the bullfighters, in getting out of the way of the enraged animal._ After the bull fight, went to the Paseo, whi ch was filled from one end to the other, with two lines of volantes, in which the Cuban Belles were taking their afternoon drive._ The volante is a most charming vehicle_ when riding it is as easy + comfortable as can be imagined, + when others are riding, you have a capital opportunity of seeing + admiring, it being very open, the driver being on the horse, and the ladies always without bonnets or any covering to the head_ a Sunday afternoon in the Paseo, is one of the most brilliant sights I have ever see n._ In the evening visited the Tacon Theatre, an immense and magnificent building, + afterwards, at the Dominica, met much to my surprise Gen. Padelford, who is here with his sister, who is in very bad health._
32 Monday, March 5 th ._ Left the Harbour found a favorable breeze._ A Spanish War Steamer passed us on her way in + I could not help wishing that I was on board her, so agreeably disappointed was I in Havana, but this wish soon homeward bound some 2 or 3 hours, passed several sail, and at evening were within sight of Sand Key Light, 9 miles from Key West._ Tuesday, Mar. 6 th ._ to 14 th ._ At sea._ On the 10 th Experienced a North West Gale, which brought to our minds visions of icebergs + snow banks. On the 11 th off Hatteras, a heavy sea, + strong wind._ Passed many vessels and of all descriptions, on the same course as ourselves, but beat them all easily._ O n the evening of the 13 th spoke the Schooner May from Halifax, bound to Philadelphia. Only 50 miles from the Capes of the Delaware ._ Wednesday, March 14 th ._ *Diary ends here.